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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Indian bedspreads (block-printed fabrics for
  gowns)
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 22:46:30 -0800
Status: RO

I've seen some yardage like this, without the borders, at nicer fabric 
stores and quilt places.  'Stone Mountain and Daughters' in Berkeley has 
them, as does 'Mendel's Far-Out Fabrics' in San Francisco (in The 
Haight).  The yardage is a finer weave (shirt-weight) than the bedspreads 
usually are.

>I just spent way too much time online searching for block-printed textiles
>suitable for 18th c. gowns.  Finally turned this up:
>
>http://www.madturban.com/
>
>Some of them aren't quite accurate, but there are a few that are dead-on.


Kayta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Teddy/Orange.. got me too
From: randl <randl@adelphia.net>
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Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 06:36:13 -0500
Status: RO


I've always wondered if there was any way to remove the rubber backing. Has
anyone ever tried to?
laurie

> Oh cool! I have those exact same curtains in my stash! Ha, I got mine before
> I even knew about Teddy, so does that make me an "orangehead" too? Like you,
> I have NO idea what to do with them, especially since they have that yucky
> rubber backing, but I remember I just HAD to bring them home. I'm in the
> process of cleaning up my sewing/fabric/craft rooms, so they may have to
> find another home.  Believe it or not, I also have the black/silver version
> of the same pattern.
> 
> Hello, my name is Linda, and I'm a fabriholic......<g>
> Virginia Beach, Va USA
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Linda J. Thompson" <
> Subject: [h-cost] Teddy/Orange.. got me too

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: sueded and "felted" silk
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Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 08:59:02 -0500
Status: RO


Robin:

I asked a friend who spins silk about your two fabrics, and here are her
responses. (FYI: She is doing a lot of research on silk spinning, and does
not weave.)

First: The "felted" silk. My friend says that the commercial silk industry
does all kinds of things to fabrics to prepare them for market, and that you
probably washed out the sizing and perhaps other chemicals that controlled
the fibers, allowing them to do what they want. Spun silk is made up of
"short" fibers, which she says are longer than wool fibers but still
relatively short, all spun together. The ends of the silk fibers stick out
just like they do in spun wool, and depending on the quality of the silk
that's spun to begin with, they will behave different ways when allowed to.
Sizing, heat rolling, and other commercial treatments make the spun silk
stay flat like reeled silk, which is silk fibers reeled straight from the
cuccoon in immense lengths (up to 1/2 mile long!).

Second: Sueded silk, she says, would not have been used in the 12th century.
According to her, all silk in 12th century Europe was imported from
Byzantium, which wove all its fabrics from reeled silk. No matter what you
did with it, the little ends wouldn't fuzz up because there weren't any
little ends. Fabric made from reeled silk was and is strong, lustrous, and
very expensive. Spinning silk from short pieces made it less expensive,
because you could use the waste pieces (such as the bits on the outside of
the cuccoons). My friend said that by the time the silk industry had made it
to Italy in the 15th century, weavers were using waste silk for either the
warp or the weft (I can't remember which) and that this was a big
controversy and the subject of many statutes, because it was using
"inferior" fibers. So perhaps this kind of fabric might have been used in
and beyond the Renaissance. She didn't know whether it was or not, but it
could have been. 

FYI, my friend told me that no one is really sure how many silk cuccoons
were used at a time to make thread for weaving. One thread is so fine you
can barely see it, but some people say that as few as two were put together
for a weaving thread. Others do not agree.

Anyone who wants further information about sources, etc., please email me
privately and I will put you in touch with my knowledgeable friend. I just
posted what I thought would be of general interest --

Gail Finke


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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sueded silk?
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Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 14:29:15 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> (Then she offered me a part-time job, as a fill-in two half-days a
> week, seeing as how I know more about their fabrics better than her
> other employees. Pay is standard retail, which is lousy, but the 50
> percent employee discount will more than balance *that* out, given the
> volume of shopping I do there. I do believe I'll say yes. My day job
> is a home business, so I can squeeze the time in. Who wouldn't want to
> spend 8 hours a week fondling fabric and get paid for it? The store
> inventory is at least half composed of linen, wool, and silk, and I'll
> get first pick of new stock.)

Woooohooo!  Go for it Robin!!!

Teddy
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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Packthread stays, again
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 11:32:14 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Well, I stumbled across it at the Library of Congress, when I was there
researching something else (talk about serendipity)...

-- Mara


On Thu, 28 Feb 2002, Martha Kelly wrote:

> This sounds like a fascinating article.  Where would one find it?  Are the
> "Proceedings" published and available in libraries? I tried the research
> search engine of the NY Public Library to no avail, though I learned that
> the Mactaggarts did write a book about finishing harpsichord cases. I also
> found "Costume" which is the magazine of the Costume Society - but nothing
> about proceedings from conferences.
>
> By the way, I had this same problem with many of the articles in Vicki Betts
> wonderful Civil War Fashion Bibliography.  I tried NYPL and the library at
> FIT, but maybe I'm not looking in the right places.
>
> Martha
>
>
> In _Some Aspects of the Use of Non-Fashionable Stays, by P. and R. A.
> Mactaggart_, from _Strata of Society: Proceedings of the Seventh Annual
> Conference of the Costume Society_, April 6-8, 1973:
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: [h-cost] Linen Sale
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 15:00:03 -0500
Status: RO


Hi everyone,

Not sure about the geographical representation on this list, but folks in
Mass., RI and CT might be interested to know that The Fabric Place has linen
on sale, 20% off.  They have a good selection and it's fine quality Irish
100% linen of all different weights and colors.  Reg. prices range from $8 -
$15 per yard, not great, but any deal is a deal.

They do have a website, www.fabricplace.com, but only one linen is listed
there and it's $18 a yard (supposedly a discount on a bulk/bolt purchase!).
Not sure if the website honors the monthly flyer sales but there is a link.

As a fabricaholic like most of the rest of you, I've been beaming all day
due to my morning linen purchase.

Laurie

P.S.  I'm interested in trading a My Double medium-size dress form (32"
waist at its smallest) for a small dress form.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: sueded and "felted" silk
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 15:12:07 -0500
Status: RO

Gosh, it certainly is!  Thanks!

Linda
Virginia Beach, Va USA

----- Original Message -----
From: "Gail & Scott Finke"
Subject: [h-cost] Re: sueded and "felted" silk


<snippage of really great silk description!>

> Anyone who wants further information about sources, etc., please email me
> privately and I will put you in touch with my knowledgeable friend. I just
> posted what I thought would be of general interest --
>
> Gail Finke

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Teddy/Orange.. got me too
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 15:21:33 -0500
Status: RO

This is one of those questions that pops up regularly, and so far, I haven't
heard anyone come up with an easy, cheap, safe way to do it.  I've heard
some pretty industrious suggestions, including using lighter fluid and other
dangerous chemicals, but nothing that makes it really cost and safety
effective.  I do know that eventually, with repeated washing and drying on
hot, the rubber will begin to disintegrate and flake off.  Personally, if I
have to work that hard just to prepare my fabric before I even get to the
cutting stage, it just ain't worth it!  Maybe if I were doing some wild
fantasy costume, and the drapes were "it", I might go to all that trouble.
I have used the rubber-backed curtains for such things as ground-cloths and
backgrounds for wallhangings. I've also upholstered a couple of chairs with
them.

Linda
Virginia Beach, Va USA

----- Original Message -----
From: "randl" <randl@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 6:36 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Teddy/Orange.. got me too


>
> I've always wondered if there was any way to remove the rubber backing.
Has
> anyone ever tried to?
> laurie
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linda and Orange.. riiiighhttt.
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 16:07:03 -0800
Status: RO

At 11:35 AM -0600 2/28/02, Linda J. Thompson wrote:
>That's what we all need to see Teddy.
>
>An enourmous 50 year old woman decked out in a neon orange 
>Elizabethan costume.  It would almost be as bad as me wearing a 
>waist cincher over a see through chemise.. (Gawd I hate that when it 
>shows up at fair)
>
>It would give small children and animals nightmares for years!
>LOL...
>
>Who knows maybe I will find the right client for it.  :)
>
>Now all I have to do is get the moth ball smell out of it.. why 
>anyone would store polyester fabric in moth balls. :(

We actually had one of those walking around the Northern California 
Renaissance Faire for a few years (as a paying customer, I hasten to 
add, _not_ a faire worker!). As far as I could tell, she wasn't doing 
it deliberately to be funny, either.

The effect was enhanced by the fact that her farthingale hoops were 
too big and she wore them straight from her waist -- no bumroll.

She looked for all the world like an animated traffic cone :-)
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 16:07:03 -0800
Status: RO

At 11:35 AM -0600 2/28/02, Linda J. Thompson wrote:
>That's what we all need to see Teddy.
>
>An enourmous 50 year old woman decked out in a neon orange 
>Elizabethan costume.  It would almost be as bad as me wearing a 
>waist cincher over a see through chemise.. (Gawd I hate that when it 
>shows up at fair)
>
>It would give small children and animals nightmares for years!
>LOL...
>
>Who knows maybe I will find the right client for it.  :)
>
>Now all I have to do is get the moth ball smell out of it.. why 
>anyone would store polyester fabric in moth balls. :(

We actually had one of those walking around the Northern California 
Renaissance Faire for a few years (as a paying customer, I hasten to 
add, _not_ a faire worker!). As far as I could tell, she wasn't doing 
it deliberately to be funny, either.

The effect was enhanced by the fact that her farthingale hoops were 
too big and she wore them straight from her waist -- no bumroll.

She looked for all the world like an animated traffic cone :-)
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
_________________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 20:01:15 EST
Status: RO


In a message dated 1/3/02 6:57:56 PM, claning@igc.org writes:

<< The effect was enhanced by the fact that her farthingale hoops were too 
big and she wore them straight from her waist -- no bumroll. >>

I saw something similar at Scarborough a couple of years ago. She was in the 
lasies room complaining that her hoops showed (at least she noticed, most 
don't). I told her I could fix it, dove upnder her skirt and reduced her 
hoops to a reasonable amount. The hoops disappeared and she went out with a 
smile.
Lady G
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Subject: [h-cost] Wool Satin
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 17:31:50 -0800
Status: RO

>>My local natural-fiber fabric store once carried some bolts of wool 
>>satin.  I could stand there and fondle them for hours, but the 
>>price was absolutely prohibitive (IIRC, around $50/yd).  Still, 
>>it's nice to know that someone, somewhere _does_ make the stuff.

When I was in Vancouver, BC at Christmastime, I found several colors 
of wool satin in a fabric store (I don't recall the name, but it was 
right next to the Indian fabric district, yet not an Indian fabric 
store. There was NOTHING any good in this store except for the wool 
satin!). With the exchange rate, I could have gotten some for about 
$20US/yd, I think. Maybe it was a little less. I didn't, and have 
been kicking myself ever since.

It was interesting stuff. It was definitely wool, but with a sheen 
I'm not used to seeing in wool.

I wonder if that store still has it.
-- 
-- Wendi

*-----------------------+---------------------------------------+-------*
  \ Wendi Dunlap-Simpson | litlnemo at slumberland.seattle.wa.us | dear /
  / Seattle, Wash., USA  | http://www.slumberland.seattle.wa.us  |  23  \
*--"Somehow everything will be a little different than you thought"-----*
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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
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Subject: rubber backing, was Re: [h-cost] Teddy/Orange.. got me too
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 16:02:03 +1300
Status: RO



> This is one of those questions that pops up regularly, and so far, I
haven't
> heard anyone come up with an easy, cheap, safe way to do it.  I've heard
> some pretty industrious suggestions, including using lighter fluid and
other
> dangerous chemicals, but nothing that makes it really cost and safety
> effective.

I used some cotton-poly rubber backed stuff to make my blue dress
(http://recital.tripod.com/costume/blue.htm). The stove top dying process
made the rubber very soft, and when I hung it out to dry, where the rubber
backing was folded onti itself, became bonded and peeled relatively easily
from the fabric.
Maybe someone would test to see if they can do the same thing to a whole
piece of fabric? I simply lined it all and as the process managed to at
least thin the rubber elsewhere, it really was no hotter than any other
heavy fabric I've used:).

michaela


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Teddy/Orange.. got me too
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 22:56:45 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Fri, 1 Mar 2002, Linda Rice wrote:

> I do know that eventually, with repeated washing and drying on hot,
> the rubber will begin to disintegrate and flake off.

I once had some rubber-backed stuff that was losing its backing, and I
found that without the backing, the material was dreadfully weak and limp.
It's not intended to exist without the backing, and was unusable when the
backing was removed.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wool Satin
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Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 19:41:13 -0800
Status: RO

Was it Rokko fabrics on Fraser,  - a few blocks over from the main Indian
shopping district at Main and 49th?
> 
> When I was in Vancouver, BC at Christmastime, I found several colors
> of wool satin in a fabric store (I don't recall the name, but it was
> right next to the Indian fabric district, yet not an Indian fabric
> store. There was NOTHING any good in this store except for the wool
> satin!). With the exchange rate, I could have gotten some for about
> $20US/yd, I think. Maybe it was a little less. I didn't, and have
> been kicking myself ever since.
> 
> It was interesting stuff. It was definitely wool, but with a sheen
> I'm not used to seeing in wool.
> 
> I wonder if that store still has it.
> --
> -- Wendi

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Subject: [h-cost] Sueded silk? Working at Fabric Store
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 22:00:23 -0600
Status: RO

Robin,

welcome to the club.  I Started part-time at Fabric Wharehouse/Hacock's in
October of '97.  Friends of mine laughed when I said this was extra income
to help pay off some bills.  I now have a basement full of fabric, mostly
modern stuff, and not enough time to sew.  Oh, I'm a part-time supervisor
now;)

Genie

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Sueded silk again
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 23:40:26 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


(Responding both the Kayta and Gail in the post)

On Thu, 28 Feb 2002, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> ...I find conscious re-interpretation, as theatrical people often do,
> much preferable to pseudo-scholarly justification, so I'm
> over-sensitive to the possibility that the latter might have happened.
> 
> Two hot buttons, for me, are 'the tourists won't know the difference'
> (voiced by docents), and 'if they'd had it they'd have used it (so
> we'll use it)' (voiced by SCA members).  The first is lying, and the
> second is sloppy reasoning.

Well, I can see how my offhand questions might have been interpreted to
suggest that I was doing the latter, but I can reassure you I'm more
careful than that :-)  My first concern was to find out just how the
fabric I was holding got its texture. Once I knew that, I could work on
the question of whether that technique was parallel to anything done in
any of the particular periods in which I was working. I was not simply
going to say, "Well, they could have accomplished this if they tried, so
it's legal." But looking back over my posts, as I inched my way along my
train of fact-finding, I can see how it might have looked as though I was
stopping at that point.

As it happens, Gail has just provided the missing links in my knowledge,
when she quoted a knowledgeable friend saying this:

> Second: Sueded silk, she says, would not have been used in the 12th
> century. According to her, all silk in 12th century Europe was
> imported from Byzantium, which wove all its fabrics from reeled silk.
> No matter what you did with it, the little ends wouldn't fuzz up
> because there weren't any little ends. Fabric made from reeled silk
> was and is strong, lustrous, and very expensive. Spinning silk from
> short pieces made it less expensive, because you could use the waste
> pieces (such as the bits on the outside of the cuccoons). My friend
> said that by the time the silk industry had made it to Italy in the
> 15th century, weavers were using waste silk for either the warp or the
> weft (I can't remember which) and that this was a big controversy and
> the subject of many statutes, because it was using "inferior" fibers.
> So perhaps this kind of fabric might have been used in and beyond the
> Renaissance. She didn't know whether it was or not, but it could have
> been.

I knew silk was being imported, not produced in Europe, in the 12th
century, and I knew that waste silk has short fibers, and I knew about the
use of waste silk to make inferior fabrics (under strict regulations) in
the 15th century European silk industry. But I didn't know that (1) only
waste silk would produce a softened effect when brushed, and (2) that only
reeled silk was imported at this time.

If so, this means that the bolt I have in hand is not usable for 12th
century, but might be usable for something rather later.

This does still leave me with a quandary regarding the 12th century silk
garment I need to make, and an issue that may call into question both (1)
and (2) above. (Gail, I'd love to hear your friend's comments on the
following.)

First, there are plenty of references to silk overdresses in the 12th
century, but the reeled silk I've seen modernly is typically very thin and
crisp, and the garments we see in the images suggest a heavy, drapey
fabric. The soft silk I have in hand would work well to create that look,
as would a fine woolen or worsted, but the reeled silk available now does
not usually fill that bill.  Is there reeled silk available now that is
heavy and drapey? If not, are we sure there was then? I have not seen
enough archaeological silk samples close-up to get an impression, and I
haven't studied the history of silk manufacture.

As part of the same train of thought, there is plenty of written evidence
of the use of silk for heavy purposes such as tentmaking and drapery and
horses' trappings; silk as a fiber was valued for its strength. I don't
have solid dates on these uses -- I'm working from memory. But I doubt
that flimsy, fine, or crisp silk would be suitable for such uses. That
raises, again, the issue of the availability of heavy reeled silk, and
also the possibility that there was some point at which waste silk was
also imported for heavier purposes.

In any case, I wouldn't be surprised if, in the 12th century, the rules
against importation of waste silk were not yet established. What is the
possibility that waste silks were being imported at the same time as the
reeled silks, but for different purposes? Didn't the Byzantines use their
waste fibers?

> FYI, my friend told me that no one is really sure how many silk
> cuccoons were used at a time to make thread for weaving. One thread is
> so fine you can barely see it, but some people say that as few as two
> were put together for a weaving thread. Others do not agree.

I don't know how you could get heavy silk fabrics otherwise, but I am not
a weaver. I wonder, though, if a heavy silk fabric made of multiple-strand
threads might be able to hold up to brushing to produce nap, if the
brushing actually broke fibers rather than making existing short fibers
stand up.

At this point, I think I'm going to put the sample I have under a
microscope and see if I can figure out anything about the length of the
fibers. Hints on what to look for are very welcome.

Changing topics to my bizarre experience with a herringbone "raw" silk
that "fulled," Gail quotes her friend again:

> First: The "felted" silk. My friend says that the commercial silk
> industry does all kinds of things to fabrics to prepare them for
> market, and that you probably washed out the sizing and perhaps other
> chemicals that controlled the fibers, allowing them to do what they
> want. Spun silk is made up of "short" fibers, which she says are
> longer than wool fibers but still relatively short, all spun together.
> The ends of the silk fibers stick out just like they do in spun wool,
> and depending on the quality of the silk that's spun to begin with,
> they will behave different ways when allowed to. Sizing, heat rolling,
> and other commercial treatments make the spun silk stay flat like
> reeled silk, which is silk fibers reeled straight from the cuccoon in
> immense lengths (up to 1/2 mile long!).

There's no doubt that this piece was indeed a spun silk, and that's
probably a fair explanation for the surface texture change. I wonder if
this would explain the tremendous shrinkage I got, too. If so, it would be
essentially equivalent to the effect of fulling on wool -- as the fibers
stop lying flat and start to fluff up, the fabric becomes thicker, and
loses some length and width.

--Robin


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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: rubber backing, was Re: [h-cost] Teddy/Orange.. got me too
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Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 20:49:36 -0800
Status: RO

I made a hooded rain cape out of rubber-backed brocade once.  When I was 
finished, I carefully ironed the cotton lining onto the rubber.  I didn't 
melt the rubber stuff enough to seep thru the cotton, but that lining was 
cemented in place.  I didn't have to deal with the rubbery-ness, but I had 
a nicely lined brocade cape which was modern-waterproof while still looking 
period.

> > This is one of those questions that pops up regularly, and so far, I
>haven't
> > heard anyone come up with an easy, cheap, safe way to do it.  I've heard
> > some pretty industrious suggestions, including using lighter fluid and
>other
> > dangerous chemicals, but nothing that makes it really cost and safety
> > effective.
>
>I used some cotton-poly rubber backed stuff to make my blue dress
>(http://recital.tripod.com/costume/blue.htm). The stove top dying process
>made the rubber very soft, and when I hung it out to dry, where the rubber
>backing was folded onti itself, became bonded and peeled relatively easily
>from the fabric.
>Maybe someone would test to see if they can do the same thing to a whole
>piece of fabric? I simply lined it all and as the process managed to at
>least thin the rubber elsewhere, it really was no hotter than any other
>heavy fabric I've used:).
>
>michaela
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Kayta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sueded silk again
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Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 21:07:14 -0800
Status: RO

Did these folks line their silk garments?  Could you line yours and get the 
right combination of surface shine and drapey weight you wanted?

>First, there are plenty of references to silk overdresses in the 12th
>century, but the reeled silk I've seen modernly is typically very thin and
>crisp, and the garments we see in the images suggest a heavy, drapey
>fabric. The soft silk I have in hand would work well to create that look,
>as would a fine woolen or worsted, but the reeled silk available now does
>not usually fill that bill.  Is there reeled silk available now that is
>heavy and drapey? If not, are we sure there was then? I have not seen
>enough archaeological silk samples close-up to get an impression, and I
>haven't studied the history of silk manufacture.
>
>As part of the same train of thought, there is plenty of written evidence
>of the use of silk for heavy purposes such as tentmaking and drapery and
>horses' trappings; silk as a fiber was valued for its strength. I don't
>have solid dates on these uses -- I'm working from memory. But I doubt
>that flimsy, fine, or crisp silk would be suitable for such uses. That
>raises, again, the issue of the availability of heavy reeled silk, and
>also the possibility that there was some point at which waste silk was
>also imported for heavier purposes.


Kayta
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 21:31:25 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


Looks like I'm on a 1950s kick.  My husband helped convince me to buy
a couple retro-looking stamps from Hot Potatoes.  We'll soon be receiving
two large stamps, one of a Bohr atom (Science!), and one of another matching
starburst shape.  George wants to be ScienceMan.  Actually, he wants me
to block print him a work shirt using those stamps.  It'll go fine with my
black-on-black polka dot 50s dress.  Maybe I'll use silver embossing 
powder on his shirt, for the really cheezy 1950s futuristic look.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Subject: Re: rubber backing, was Re: [h-cost] Teddy/Orange.. got me too
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Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 22:23:36 -0700
Status: RO

Okay....*sigh*....I know, without a shadow of a doubt, that it's been
*way, way* too long a week when I see this subject line, and all that's
going through my head is:
"Rubber ducky, you're the one.  You make bathtime lots of fun....."
aaaarrrrgggggghhhhh........
Sue, running off to find the *sane* bits left of her life....

michaela wrote:
> 
> > This is one of those questions that pops up regularly, and so far, I
> haven't
> > heard anyone come up with an easy, cheap, safe way to do it.  I've heard
> > some pretty industrious suggestions, including using lighter fluid and
> other
> > dangerous chemicals, but nothing that makes it really cost and safety
> > effective.
> 
> I used some cotton-poly rubber backed stuff to make my blue dress
> (http://recital.tripod.com/costume/blue.htm). The stove top dying process
> made the rubber very soft, and when I hung it out to dry, where the rubber
> backing was folded onti itself, became bonded and peeled relatively easily
> from the fabric.
> Maybe someone would test to see if they can do the same thing to a whole
> piece of fabric? I simply lined it all and as the process managed to at
> least thin the rubber elsewhere, it really was no hotter than any other
> heavy fabric I've used:).
> 
> michaela
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Mar  2 00:15:44 2002
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] A puzzle for the silk experts (was: Sueded silk)
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 01:14:37 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


For those who came in late :-) I've been puzzling over a fabric I've
bought that was called "sueded silk" -- dress weight, substantial enough
not to see through, drapey, very very soft to the touch, but slightly
"sticky" like silk, smooth with a gentle shine, no slubs, and no nap
visible to the eye. It is not sandwashed silk. I've been trying to figure
out whether it might be a good representation of a medieval silk (I'm
looking for 12th c., but I could use it for something else if it was more
appropriate to a later period). Several people have commented that its
softness suggests it is a spun silk that has been brushed to raise the
short fibers into a "micro-nap," and that thus it would not have been used
in the middle ages, when reeled silks were the norm.

I just took a 7-inch-long strip from the weft edge and pulled out a 7-inch
long weft thread. It was two-ply, and I separated it. And then kept
separating. Every time I thought I was down to a unique fiber, I found
that it split apart again. Ultimately I got down to a fiber that was about
the width of a piece of dust. (This was not easy, and I lost quite a few
fibers into the air and had to start over.) It tangled easily till I got
the knack of separating the fibers, but it was not tightly twisted, and
did not seem prone to breaking. Of course I was handling it very gently;
I'm sure I could have broken it if I tried at all, but it didn't break on
its own just from the de-plying.

Every single one of these fibers was the full 7 inches I started with. 

Under a microscope, the thread was transparent; I could see its outline in
red (the fabric is red) and otherwise look right through the fiber. I saw
nothing else of note, but it's a very small student microscope, and I
don't know what to look for.

I then pulled a warp thread, which was only two inches (the width of my
sample swatch). A close look showed many short fiber ends sticking up from
the thread, which I had not seen on the weft. This, I think, is the source
of the micro-nap. However, when I plied the thread, I came up with the
same gossamer fibers, and the vast majority of them were the full length
of the two-inch thread.

I suspect I am looking at a reeled silk whose warp threads were brushed
enough to break a few of the surface fibers along the threads and create
the soft texture, leaving most of the threads intact. The weft threads do
not appear to have been broken in this way.

But I am not a silk expert. So, I ask those who know: Would the presence
of fibers that all ran the full length of a 7-inch-long thread be
sufficient to indicate a reeled silk? Is there something else I should be
checking for? Should I cut a much longer piece to be sure?

--Robin


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Mar  2 00:25:38 2002
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sueded silk again
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 01:25:23 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Fri, 1 Mar 2002, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> Did these folks line their silk garments?  Could you line yours and
> get the right combination of surface shine and drapey weight you
> wanted?

Evidence on linings is uncertain at this time, and what I've been able to
find suggests they were used in some garments but not universally. I may
line mine, but although a lining would add weight to the garment, in my
experience it would not change the surface draping/folding of the outer
layer. Most of the silks people point to today as "reeled" rather than
"spun" are too crisp or too fine/limp to hang right, at least as I
understand "right." I may be wrong ;-)

In any case, I'm not looking just to make this work visually with the
fabric I have in hand. If it was only the look I needed, there are a lot
of things I could do. But I'm trying to determine the weight/type of
fabric that *would* have been used, and then to locate a modern equivalent
that will help me test the construction to see if I can achieve the same
heavy, drapey look I see in the images, and maybe answer some questions as
well. This is possibly not an achievable goal, given the gaps in the
evidence, but I want to get as close as I can.

However, as I've posted in another post a few minutes ago, it may be a
reeled silk I have after all, which might put it back in the running.

--Robin


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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 09:47:31 -0000
Status: RO

I picked this book up from a book club a while back because
a) I'm a beginner, this is a book about middle ages dress, I'm buying it
b) it was cheap
c) it's got lots of pretty pictures.

But.... written in the 1840s?

Can I take any of those pretty pictures as being accurate, useful, or anything else?

ISBN 188544024-3

It's in Amazon, but with no reviews



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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 02:03:50 -0800
Status: RO

Fur trade Living History?  What are the dates on this?  Is this the same 
period as the folks who do Rendezvous (ron-de-voo's)/Mountain Men stuff?

Dragonwolfcat writes, in a message sent 04:54 PM 2/28/02 -0800:
>Fort Vancouver is the one that Mickey was talking about--she says that Fort
>Nisqually has more fun though.
>
>She wasn't aware of any others down that way though, other than talking to
>the musuems and any other time frames of living history you might be
>interested in.  She's more interested in Fur Trade living history, although
>we have grand conversations about textiles.
>
>jonnalyhn
>
>
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________
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>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 01:30:51 -0800
Status: RO

At 7:41 PM -0800 3/1/02, Cruiskeen wrote:
>Was it Rokko fabrics on Fraser,  - a few blocks over from the main Indian
>shopping district at Main and 49th?

Hm, I don't think so. I'm pretty sure it had a more generic name. But 
it was right in that area. Darn, I can see the place in my mind... 
but I don't recall the street.
-- 
-- Wendi

*-----------------------+---------------------------------------+-------*
  \ Wendi Dunlap-Simpson | litlnemo at slumberland.seattle.wa.us | dear /
  / Seattle, Wash., USA  | http://www.slumberland.seattle.wa.us  |  23  \
*--"Somehow everything will be a little different than you thought"-----*
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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 08:30:46 -0500
Status: RO

And there are those of us on the list who hand make clothing in
appropriate fabrics and colors for the particular time and place
using the most stringent research they can find, and by hooking
up with museum curators and archeologists that still get
penalized for being SCA by other 'serious' historical costumers.
margali
member of the SCA 23 years and counting, and with the exception
of cooking slops every garment made and worn accurate. I even
carve bone and cast my own jewelry and pins for my roman, norse
and scythian clothing. When I kept sheep, I took my wool and
turned it into clothing using dye stuffs scrounged from my woods
and scoured the wool with soap made from sheep fat and wood ash
lye. I may lurk most of the time, but then again I don't know
many people on any mailing list that commute 70 miles each way to
work through a major metropolitan area, work a full day and still
have to maintain hearth and home.

-- 
~~~~~
The Quote Starts Here:
> I've been noticing a lot of h-costume
> conversations lately geared toward SCA activities.  I get so much out the
> higher level, 'scholarly' type threads here, and I guess I just want to keep
> it that way.
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Line the rubber backed stuff with something like light weight cotton and make 
a cloak for rainy days

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Line the rubber backed stuff with something like light weight cotton and make a cloak for rainy days
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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I made the mistake of working part time for a fabric store a few years back.  
My stash grew, but the bank account didn't.  Working full time in a book 
store was even worse.  I felt like one of those homeless people that sits 
with a sign saying they will work for food.  I needed one that said I will 
work for books (or fabric), because that is pretty much the way it turned 
out.  The craft store wasn't a good idea either.

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>I made the mistake of working part time for a fabric store a few years back. &nbsp;My stash grew, but the bank account didn't. &nbsp;Working full time in a book store was even worse. &nbsp;I felt like one of those homeless people that sits with a sign saying they will work for food. &nbsp;I needed one that said I will work for books (or fabric), because that is pretty much the way it turned out. &nbsp;The craft store wasn't a good idea either.
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Mar  2 10:41:34 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: silk question
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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 11:16:14 -0500
Status: RO


Robin et al:

I am going to get all these questions to my friend, but she doesn't check
her email every day and so it might take a few days, even if I phone her
(which I will).

But in the meantime, I wanted to clarify something -- I didn't mean to say
that people always wove with only two reeled fibers. That's the low end of
what has been posited for the sheerest silk. Most silk at the time, I think
she said, was thick. We were discussing how sheer it could be made without
breaking (silk fibers are very strong, as most of you probably know, but
they aren't unbreakable). I don't know what the upper end of numbers of
cocoons per weaving thread was.

I don't want to speculate any more when I can ask someone, so I'll stop
there. But I have to say, I'm very curious about what garment this is that
you're trying to recreate!

Gail


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Mar  2 10:44:33 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: rubber-backed brocade
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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 11:19:45 -0500
Status: RO


I once talked with a woman whose Tudor-era skirt was made of a beautiful
rubber-lined brocade. She told me that she made it because she loved the
fabric, but that it was tough on machine needles and extremely hot to wear.
She had a farthingale under it, so it didn't touch her skin (that's why she
chose that particular garment to make), but it was hot nevertheless.

Just an FYI for anyone thinking of using it. The only thing I've ever used
it for was draping over camp stools to use as temporary seating. No sewing
involved, and it looks nice, especially with velvet pillows on top.

Gail Finke


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Mar  2 11:45:39 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] cotton Satin
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 12:27:04 EST
Status: RO

Someone on list gave a site that sells cotton satin. I'm down to my last 2 
yards and will need more after I get back from GW. Would whoever sent in the 
site please send it in again? I cannot remember what the subject line was and 
I can't find it (along with a myriad of other things) here in Texas.
Thanks,
Lady G
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Mar  2 12:05:51 2002
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 12:47:51 EST
Status: RO


In a message dated 2/3/02 7:31:43 AM, margali@99main.com writes:

<< > I've been noticing a lot of h-costume conversations lately geared toward 
SCA activities.  I get so much out the higher level, 'scholarly' type threads 
here, and I guess I just want to keep it that way. >>

Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list send 
in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred activity. If 
you belong to more than one group, include all the groups you play with and 
each will get a fraction toward the total. I'll keep a tally and send the 
numbers in when I'm done. Perhaps the reason for the SCA geared threads is 
there are more Scadians on list than others or that the Scadians are just 
chattier/more vocal.
Lady G
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I am new to SCA and have been doing 14th century, but am moving into 
Elizabethan now.  

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>I am new to SCA and have been doing 14th century, but am moving into Elizabethan now. &nbsp;
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Mar  2 12:40:37 2002
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 13:22:36 EST
Status: RO

hi--I'm Kathryn---
I've played with SCA almost 30 years, now--as well as with Faire in various 
groups, as well as Friends of the English Regency. I live in the Ventura , 
California area. My parents insist that I was grabbing for fabric, buttons 
and beads from my stroller at a VERY early age. I am a confirmed 
jewelry/embroidery/costumning junkie. Love costumning of all periods--but in 
particular 13th, 16th, Regency, and Edwardian. Have taught metal 
thread/bullion embroidery for 15 years--another  side-line.Love to hear about 
'more scholarly ' approaches to costumne and costumne research , as well:) We 
are all continuing to learn and 'hone our skills' no matter how long we have 
been at this:) I look forward to attending one of the Kalmazoo conferences 
one of these years.  I notice that the over all 'consciousness' and quality 
of work appears to hve improved over the years in our local branch of 
SCA----as well as the other groups I've played in, through all the different 
costumning groups co-mingling more and sharing what they know. I think it's 
important that we continue to share with each other from our  varying points 
of view---but be careful not to look down our noses at other groups. Everyone 
has to start somewhere! 
I have generally enjoyed many of the threads I've read on this list--but also 
been  occasionaly a little dismayed when things have 'tangented' too far from 
the primary focus --costumning---  or deteriorated into snarking---which I 
feel is unproductive. 
Just my two cents---
Albra/Kathryn
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From: Patris MEALLIER <argad@wanadoo.fr>
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 13:01:08 +0100
Status: RO

Well... I've been on this website, which is from USA but it appears that the

thread, and may be the lace also, comes from Germany...

...for those of us in Europe wouldn't it be simpler to find who the German
producer is ?

Incidentally I've found a metal lace producer in Lyon (France)
which sent me some samples. But they haven't got the internet !

Patrice Meallier "Huchehault"
http://pro.wanadoo.fr/huchehault/




Leif Drews a *crit :

> Oh well......... forgot to add the adress....... sorry!
>
> http://www.cmtonline.com/~kplamp/
>
> Bjarne
>
> --

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 12:06:22 -0700
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On Sat, Mar 02, 2002 at 12:47:51PM -0500, LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:
> Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list send 
> in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred activity.

Whoops, this list has over 400 members.  Hold on to your mailboxes,
people.

						...eliz

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 20:31:27 +0100
Status: RO

> On Sat, Mar 02, 2002 at 12:47:51PM -0500, LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:
>> Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list send
>> in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred activity.
> 
> Whoops, this list has over 400 members.  Hold on to your mailboxes,
> people.
What if we all sent our mail to the Lady Gryphon and she can summarize?
That's how they do it on other lists :)

BTW since I'm already taking up bandwith: I have been in the SCA for over 3
years now. This is what has gotten me into costuming. I have met more people
very concerned about authenticity than not in the SCA. I like every period
but have done most of my stuff around French and German 1350 though I am now
trying my hand at Elizabethan renaissance around 1580. The dress I am making
will be as close as I can make it to authentic taking my budget into account
(which definitely already really hurts but it is for a very special
occasion)

Cassandra von Schwabing :)
MKA Cassandra Greer :)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 14:39:14 -0500
Status: RO

>Everybody on list send in an e-mail

Okay.  :)

>your affiliation
SCA

>preferred year
Early to mid 15th century.

>preferred activity
I make my own garb, accessories, and some jewelry.  I also occasionally 
make stuff for others.


Jessica Clark
SCA: Irène leNoir
irene@loudzen.com
www.loudzen.com/users/jessica

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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 14:45:22 EST
Status: RO


In a message dated 2/3/02 1:07:29 PM, eliz@indra.com writes:

<< Whoops, this list has over 400 members.  Hold on to your mailboxes,
people. >>

Yes and taking into consideration that everyone won't write and it will 
probably take a month for those who do e-mail about it it's less than 10 
extras per day.
Lady G
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I get such a kick out of these threads.  I joined the list for reference and 
technical advice from theatrical and other costuming professionals.  I'm a 
theatrical costumer with about 12 years of experience, having been a 
seamstress since my teens.  Always did the Halloween thing, until I 
discovered that if I jumped over to theater I could get paid and do it more 
than once a year!  The era that really rang my bell was the 1920s, but I know 
do many others with just as much gusto (Cavalier, Italian Renaissance, etc 
etc).  

I joined the list while sitting at home after surgery in 1997 or thereabouts. 
Not absolutely sure if that came first, or just got me more active.  Never 
done the SCA thing, but sometimes I wish I did.

Oh yeah, I've never regretted being on this list.  I have yet to be let down. 
You are all so giving of your time and knowledge. It is truly a privilige to 
be among you.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes 
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"See! How she leans her cheek upon her hand, 
O! That I were a glove upon that hand,
That I might touch that cheek."
Romeo & Juliet, II, ii - W. Shakespeare

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial Narrow" LANG="0">I get such a kick out of these threads.&nbsp; I joined the list for reference and technical advice from theatrical and other costuming professionals.&nbsp; I'm a theatrical costumer with about 12 years of experience, having been a seamstress since my teens.&nbsp; Always did the Halloween thing, until I discovered that if I jumped over to theater I could get paid and do it more than once a year!&nbsp; The era that really rang my bell was the 1920s, but I know do many others with just as much gusto (Cavalier, Italian Renaissance, etc etc).&nbsp; <BR>
<BR>
I joined the list while sitting at home after surgery in 1997 or thereabouts. Not absolutely sure if that came first, or just got me more active.&nbsp; Never done the SCA thing, but sometimes I wish I did.<BR>
<BR>
Oh yeah, I've never regretted being on this list.&nbsp; I have yet to be let down. You are all so giving of your time and knowledge. It is truly a privilige to be among you.<BR>
<BR>
angela<BR>
+++++<BR>
Angela F. Lazear<BR>
Cabbage Rose Costumes <BR>
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com<BR>
Theatrical Costume Design<BR>
<BR>
"See! How she leans her cheek upon her hand, <BR>
O! That I were a glove upon that hand,<BR>
That I might touch that cheek."<BR>
Romeo &amp; Juliet, II, ii - W. Shakespeare<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
--part1_ca.76ed616.29b28b89_boundary--
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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 21:38:12 +0100
Status: RO


Hello
I am Bjarne from Denmark.
I have no connections to RCA, i dont even know what it is.
The only reason i am here is because i am interrested in all kinds of
discutions about making historical accurate costumes. It dont bather me
wheather people on this list makes for SCA or other things as long as
the topics are interresting wich they usually are.

Bjarne


--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 14:41:49 -0600
Status: RO

Hmmm...affiliation is Bristol Renn Faire patron and very recently SCA. I
mostly do Elizabethan, 1580ish or so, middle class or upper merchant class
(it's a tad bit more affordable!). I am dabbling with the idea of some
earlier era - maybe 12th century or so - for easier clothing for the SCA
stuff. And one of these days I'm going to make something out of The Voice of
Fashion (late Victorian/Edwardian) that I bought two years ago!

I tend to try to get as authentic as I can, or at least know what the
authentic thing to do is, so I can fake it as close as possible :-)

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
Bristol,
BRF FOF

So many books, so little time

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************


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St. Louis Costumers' Guild/International Costumers' Guild, a little SCA, 
Imperium Antiquitus....

I do Tudor, Cockney, Roman...hope to do some early 17th century soon.  I'm 
here to learn, discover books & websites, find cloth & trim sites.

With a name like fabrichoarder, I'm in the right place!

Ramona

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>St. Louis Costumers' Guild/International Costumers' Guild, a little SCA, Imperium Antiquitus....
<BR>
<BR>I do Tudor, Cockney, Roman...hope to do some early 17th century soon. &nbsp;I'm here to learn, discover books &amp; websites, find cloth &amp; trim sites.
<BR>
<BR>With a name like fabrichoarder, I'm in the right place!
<BR>
<BR>Ramona</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 22:18:24 +0100
Status: RO

Hi,

I am a member of the SCA.
But if I could find an other group specialized in 16th century (clothing or
dancing) I would join them too.
I really like to make and wear 16th century clothing.
But I also like 15th century Italian clothing.
Actually making this clothing and reseurching it is someting I do almost 24 ours
a day ;-)
Over two months I will have picktures of my wedding wich is offcourse in 16th
century style...
But now I have still a few meters of embroidery to doo ;-(

Greetings,
        Deredere


LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 2/3/02 7:31:43 AM, margali@99main.com writes:
>
> << > I've been noticing a lot of h-costume conversations lately geared toward
> SCA activities.  I get so much out the higher level, 'scholarly' type threads
> here, and I guess I just want to keep it that way. >>
>
> Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list send
> in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred activity. If
> you belong to more than one group, include all the groups you play with and
> each will get a fraction toward the total. I'll keep a tally and send the
> numbers in when I'm done. Perhaps the reason for the SCA geared threads is
> there are more Scadians on list than others or that the Scadians are just
> chattier/more vocal.
> Lady G
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 16:23:10 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Sat, 2 Mar 2002, Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

> I don't want to speculate any more when I can ask someone, so I'll
> stop there. But I have to say, I'm very curious about what garment
> this is that you're trying to recreate!

The outfit will be that of a noblewoman of the 12th century French court,
and it is for a university French professor whose doctoral thesis was on
costume reference in 12th century romance. In these romances, the noble
heroes/heroines and royalty are typically described as wearing bliauts of
silk.

About all we know about "bliaut" from written contexts is that it is an
overgarment worn by upperclass men and women. Although costume historians
tend to apply the word "bliaut" to the cryptic garment seen on the
sculptures of Chartres and a few other buildings of that period, we have
no way to know if anyone in the 12th century called those particular
garments "bliauts." Manuscript illuminations and other artwork tend to
show a more believable/achievable overdress style, without the weird seams
and pleatings/crinklings/whatever that you see on the statues. I think it
is most likely that "bliaut" was a more generic term for overgown, which
may have included the Chartres-style gowns as only one subset. In any
case, it's reasonable to assume that if the Chartres overgown style
existed, it was probably worn only by a small subset of people (e.g.
royalty) and apparently occurred in a very small segment of place and time
within the longer period and larger area in which the term "bliaut" was
used.

The bliaut is sometimes described in the romances as being worn over an
undergown called a chainse, which is sometimes described as being of white
linen, but probably is not the same as a chemise, and the white linen
chainses in the literature may have been outliers -- that is, the author
may have mentioned the white linen of a lady's chainse in certain cases
because it was *different* from the norm, and thus an unusual
characteristic that has significance to the depiction of the character.
This is one example of a problem that often comes up when you try to use
literary references as documentation for clothing, as descriptions of
literary characters often mention *atypical*, not typical clothing -- and
that's why the clothing is described, as listeners/readers would already
know what was typical and would recognize the distinctions. The most often
quoted source for such references in this period is Eunice Goddard's book
on clothing references in 11th and 12th century French romances, but
Goddard's goal was simply to catalog and collate mentions. In her
analysis, she often fails to note the context of the references, so unless
you are familiar with the romances already, you might not realize that a
particular garment was associated only with, say, a fairy-woman or other
supernatural creature.

More than you wanted to know!

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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I joined h-costume in 1995 when I was a student in college.  I was taking my
first historic costume and art history classes.  I want to learn more about
Ancient Egyptian costume because I was struggling keeping all the kingdoms
apart.  The two classes were really confusing me with all the dates and
names.  I really found it fun to discuss what I was being taught in my
classes with the members of h-costume.  I have learned so much from the
members on the list because so many people have different time frame
interests.  I also learned of so many resources to pull for my projects.
H-costume was the first email list I was ever on.

I like all eras of historic fashions.  I kinda think of them in the same
manner as my children... I love them all and it is hard to pick one as my
favorite.

My affiliation... I have been a member of Costume Society of America since
1996.  I served as their webmaster for three years.  I took a year off after
that... I needed a break to develop my business.  Now I am back again.

Email list I am on... this one is long...
***fantasy
***vintage
***h-needlework
***tlhs (long hair email list)
***DC Webwomen (tech list for women in Wahington DC area)

I own four email lists.  Two are private lists.  Public lists at
yahoogroups:
***costumegallery (newsletter for my website)
***FilmCostumes

Other lists that I am on at yahoogroups:
***19cWoman
***50sFashion
***Ballgownsect
***boys-costumes
***bustlesandbows
***Costume_Closet
***costumedc
***costumeinfo
***dldc (distance education list)
***elegancebeauty
***replicaclothing
***sewinghistoric
***sewretro
***sewvictorian
***VintageCouture

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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<DIV>I joined h-costume in 1995 when I was a student in college.&nbsp; I =
was=20
taking my first historic costume and art history classes.&nbsp; I want =
to learn=20
more about Ancient Egyptian costume because I was struggling keeping all =
the=20
kingdoms apart.&nbsp; The two classes were really confusing me with all =
the=20
dates and names.&nbsp; I really found it fun to discuss what I was being =

taught&nbsp;in my classes with the members of h-costume.&nbsp; I have =
learned so=20
much from the members on the list because so many people have different =
time=20
frame interests.&nbsp; I also learned of so many resources to pull for =
my=20
projects.&nbsp; H-costume was the first email list I was ever on.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I like all eras of historic fashions.&nbsp; I&nbsp;kinda think of =
them in=20
the same manner as my children... I love them all and it is hard to pick =
one as=20
my favorite.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>My affiliation... I have been a member of Costume Society of =
America since=20
1996.&nbsp; I served as their webmaster for three years.&nbsp; I took a=20
year&nbsp;off after that... I needed a break to develop my =
business.&nbsp; Now I=20
am back again.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Email list I am on... this one is long...</DIV>
<DIV>***fantasy</DIV>
<DIV>***vintage</DIV>
<DIV>***h-needlework</DIV>
<DIV>***tlhs (long hair email list)</DIV>
<DIV>***DC Webwomen (tech list for women in Wahington DC area)</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I own four email lists.&nbsp; Two are private lists.&nbsp; Public =
lists at=20
yahoogroups:</DIV>
<DIV>***costumegallery (newsletter for my website)</DIV>
<DIV>***FilmCostumes</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Other lists that I am on at&nbsp;yahoogroups:</DIV>
<DIV>***19cWoman</DIV>
<DIV>***50sFashion</DIV>
<DIV>***Ballgownsect</DIV>
<DIV>***boys-costumes</DIV>
<DIV>***bustlesandbows</DIV>
<DIV>***Costume_Closet</DIV>
<DIV>***costumedc</DIV>
<DIV>***costumeinfo</DIV>
<DIV>***dldc (distance education list)</DIV>
<DIV>***elegancebeauty</DIV>
<DIV>***replicaclothing</DIV>
<DIV>***sewinghistoric</DIV>
<DIV>***sewretro</DIV>
<DIV>***sewvictorian</DIV>
<DIV>***VintageCouture</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Penny Ladnier<BR>Owner, The Costume Gallery &amp; Costume =
Classroom<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.costumegallery.com">http://www.costumegallery.com</A> =
<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.costumeclassroom.com">http://www.costumeclassroom.com<=
/A><BR></DIV>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Mar  2 15:32:48 2002
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From: Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you
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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 22:13:10 +0100
Status: RO

OOOOps, there you go. i said RCA, but i ment SCA.......
Sorry

Bjarne

Leif Drews wrote:

> Hello
> I am Bjarne from Denmark.
> I have no connections to RCA, i dont even know what it is.
> The only reason i am here is because i am interrested in all kinds of
> discutions about making historical accurate costumes. It dont bather me
> wheather people on this list makes for SCA or other things as long as
> the topics are interresting wich they usually are.
>
> Bjarne
>
> --
>
> Leif Drews
> Åboulevard 5, 3 th
> 1635  København V
>
> Bjarne Drews
> Åboulevard 5,3.th
> 1635 København V
>
> tlf. 35 37 13 70
>
> My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
>
> Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 13:35:16 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume

  I've been in the SCA for 7-years now, and like to
focus on the 16c, both English and Italian.  
  My fiancee is a Rector for the Tattershall School of
Defense, and I also make all his clothes.
  A friend recommended this list as a more "educated"
one for making clothes.

Sheila
Lady Turrel


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From: "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 17:17:49 -0500
Status: RO

I started out sewing as a kid, made only Halloween costumes for many years
as sewing is not a cheap hobby and I cannot compete with the prices I see at
Walmart.  Then I discovered Renaissance Festivals, the SCA, and all these
other groups I had no idea existed, and my descent into fabric
stashaholicism started.  I am fascinated by SCA-period (read 12-16th century
for me, anyway) clothing, and pretty much everything except Regency styles.
I have no place to wear most of this stuff, but that does not stop my
collection of techniques.  I am looking forward very much to being done with
school (mid-life career change stuff) and actually having time to put into
practice some of the tremendous amount I have learned from this list.
-Megan McHugh

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Sheila
Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 4:35 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Why are you on h-costume



> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume

  I've been in the SCA for 7-years now, and like to
focus on the 16c, both English and Italian.
  My fiancee is a Rector for the Tattershall School of
Defense, and I also make all his clothes.
  A friend recommended this list as a more "educated"
one for making clothes.

Sheila
Lady Turrel


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 11:27:13 +1300
Status: RO

> > Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list
send
> > in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred
activity.

Only fringe SCA, only been to a few events and probably will stay that
way:).
I'm a cross period person, 15thC "Flemish" 16thC german, 1800-1840s,
1870s-1880s mostly. I skip the crin years. I know people love them, I can't
stand them. And I have to wear one in MAAN for a 4 1/2 week season, wah!

michaela

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: silk question
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 23:32:45 +0100
Status: RO

> About all we know about "bliaut" from written contexts is that it is an
...large snip
> 
> The bliaut is sometimes described in the romances as being worn over an
..large snip...
> 
> More than you wanted to know!
On the contrary!!!! feed me more! yummy!

Cass :)

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Henry Shaw: "Dress and Decoration of the Middle Ages"
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 18:56:49 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Sat, 2 Mar 2002, Jane Williams wrote:

> I picked this book up from a book club a while back because
> a) I'm a beginner, this is a book about middle ages dress, I'm buying it
> b) it was cheap
> c) it's got lots of pretty pictures.
> 
> But.... written in the 1840s?
> 
> Can I take any of those pretty pictures as being accurate, useful, or
> anything else?

As redrawings go, some of these are really quite good; Shaw is a more
faithful copyist than some of his contemporaries. Some of the images have
flaws, misreadings, or outright changes. In particular, he tends to lower
the waist on women's clothing and increase the bustline to "improve" the
figure. If you know the originals, you can distinguish the good from the
not-so-good. But if you know the originals, why would you be using Shaw?
At least he's pretty good about citing his sources.

The best use is this: If you see something in here you like, you can then
track down the original and work from that. If you don't know where to
find the original, give a holler -- I could put my fingers on half of
those images within 60 seconds on my own bookshelf, and I bet there are
others on this list who could do the same.

I can't speak for the text. I haven't read it carefully. I have seen
another of Shaw's books that has such awful errors that I wouldn't trust
any of his analysis of clothing.

--Robin

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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 15:53:31 -0800
Status: RO

To LadyGryphon-

h-cost for 13c, not into reenacting yet, primarily feast/picnic/archery
activities; love Regency discussion (adore the dancing);  appreciate
discussion of 1840s, 1890s, 1910s

18c woman list for rendezvous activities and love of the georgian
attire, prefer 1740s (picnic, dancing, tea activities)

musketeer list for cavalier era (picnic/dancing), weaponry interest for husband



LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:

> Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list send
> in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred activity. I
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Mar  2 18:10:32 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
From: Sarah Lorriane <lithiate@earthlink.net>
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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 15:49:06 -0800
Status: RO

>>> Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list
> send
>>> in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred
> activity.

SCA & Ren Faire, but mainly SCA.  I know that my excuse as far as the SCA is
concerned is that it's virtually the only well-organized medieval
reenactment group within reasonable driving distance.  ::Soap Box Warning::
So, in many ways, it's the only creative outlet I have.  It kinda rubs me
the wrong way when people roll their eyes at the fact that I do SCA, as
though it discredits my hardwork and research that I invest in my costumes.
I hate that the SCA has such a stigma attached to it, but I can't deny that
I do enjoy the variety that it has to offer.  You definately get out of it
what you put into it...

Okay, you can have the soapbox back.  :)

Sarah Lorraine

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: silk question
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 19:34:04 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Sat, 2 Mar 2002, Cassandra Greer wrote:

> > About all we know about "bliaut" from written contexts is that it is an
> ...large snip
> > 
> > The bliaut is sometimes described in the romances as being worn over an
> ..large snip...
> > 
> > More than you wanted to know!

> On the contrary!!!! feed me more! yummy!

Oh, golly. The bliaut is a frequent topic of discussion on this list. Have
you looked at the archives at <http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion/archives>?
I can point you to a few threads that address this topic that I
happen to have saved notes on, as follows:

	Real & unreal - fold lines -- Oct 2000
	Queen of Sheba bliaut (WAS Paris trip report) -- Jan 2001
	Bliaut patterns/instructions -- Nov 2001

You can search for those by subject line, and you can probably find a lot
more by searching subject lines just for the words "bliaut" or "12th
century" or "Chartres."

That should keep you busy for a little while ;-)

--Robin

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Mar  2 18:41:34 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Why I'm Here
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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 17:23:15 -0700
Status: RO

My main focus is 1840-1860, with short forays into 1880-1910; we do 
non-military impressions for American Civil War, westward migration (Oregon 
& Mormon Trail), etc.  Occasionally I get an earlier or later project to 
work on, and having a multi-era list to throw things at is a huge help.  I 
have only an academic interest in things before 1700, but enjoy the chats 
that get going about them.

Regards,
Elizabeth
http://www.elizabethstewartclark.com



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Mar  2 19:20:44 2002
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 20:08:25 -0500
Status: RO

Greetings--

Currently, my only outlet as far as costume making is the SCA--my primary
period of interest is England, from the Conquest through the 14th century,
with the focus on the 13th century.  However, I've studied several other
periods in some depth, including 16th century/Elizabethan, Norse, Rus', and
migrations period Europe (Germanic tribes). I was at one time involved in
ECW reenacting, but haven't been lately. I have at least a passing interest
in several other periods, including Regency and 1920s-1940s.

For costume research, I'm currently interested in clerical/monastic
clothing, with the focus being the 13th century since that's the sources I
know best. I have a doctorate in medieval history with a focus on the same
period, but am not working in academia.

Susan
(SCA Nicolaa de Bracton)

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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 21:57:21 -0800
Status: RO

At 8:01 PM -0500 3/1/02, LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 1/3/02 6:57:56 PM, claning@igc.org writes:
>
><< The effect was enhanced by the fact that her farthingale hoops were too
>big and she wore them straight from her waist -- no bumroll. >>
>
>I saw something similar at Scarborough a couple of years ago. She was in the
>lasies room complaining that her hoops showed (at least she noticed, most
>don't). I told her I could fix it, dove upnder her skirt and reduced her
>hoops to a reasonable amount. The hoops disappeared and she went out with a
>smile.
>Lady G

That does help. I see far too many ladies in Elizabethans whose hoops 
show -- usually due to not enough layers between the hoops and the 
gown, or else not enough yardage in the outermost skirt. In my 
experience you need at least 2 layers in between and twice as much 
circumference in the skirt as in the farthingale. The most 
conspicuous area is usually the front, since a lot of people wear a 
forepart to the skirt that's lighter weight than the rest of the 
skirt. Fortunately I have an industrial-strength stiffened forepart 
with a layer of denim in it (thanks, Margo! <g>), which pretty much 
eliminates *that* problem. Five yards of medium-weight wool and a 
heavy petticoat over the hoops take care of the rest of it.

I almost think this is the most common problem with women who don't 
have a lot of experience or information with Elizabethan clothing. 
Running a close second is having the skirts too short. I see entirely 
too many nice Elizabethans where the gorgeous red-and-gold brocade 
stops a good 3 to 4 inches above the floor. <sigh>
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 22:17:19 -0500
Status: RO

 Hi, I'm Diana . I joined the list to learn what I could about
historical clothing. My intestest is Renaissance faires and the period
clothing for the time from 1500's to mid 1600's. I want to make clothing
as close to historially correct as I can.  I make anything from peasent
to nobles for myself and friends. As a newbie to all this I tend to read
more then post.  I ask questions when I don't understand or need help. I
don't feel I have enough knowledge in anything to contribute worth while
comments or suggestions.

Diana
Aka Dhannti
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 21:28:47 -0500
Status: RO

I'm on this list because there are such a great variety of interests and
time periods represented -- and there is a wealth of knowledge constantly
pouring into the list. I think I have learned more here in four years (has
it been four?) than I had learned previously on my own. The list has opened
up so many avenues of discussion (everything from portraiture to
construction techniques and more).

My favorite periods are the Regency (my "specialty") and the
Edwardian/Teens. I'm one of those crazy people who actually wears this stuff
on a regular basis to the grocery store. I don't have a lot of patience with
ugliness in fashion and just refuse to wait for the rest of the world to
catch up (or is it "regress?")! LOL!

My husband, three boys and I do 1812 and ACW reenacting here in Alabama and
hope to get into some Colonial reenacting in the future. We are both
lifelong history nuts and really enjoy the details of the periods we've
studied. That and English Lit (my major in college) have really contributed
to my passion for historic costume.

So many great folks on the list from all around the world! It is nice to be
among kindred spirits. :-)

Cheers,
Jennie Chancey

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Sense and Sensibility Clothing and Patterns
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal

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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 14:55:53 -0800
Status: RO



LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:

>
> Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list send
> in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred activity. If
> you belong to more than one group, include all the groups you play with and
> each will get a fraction toward the total. I'll keep a tally and send the
> numbers in when I'm done. Perhaps the reason for the SCA geared threads is
> there are more Scadians on list than others or that the Scadians are just
> chattier/more vocal.

Also an SCA person, now in my eighth year (has it been that long already?). I've
also belonged to other groups and hang around the fringes of a folk dance group
for the occasional historic dances they have, which are currently my only excuses

for wearing costume outside SCA period. My favourite period is the 15th century
but my wardrobe has stuff from Roman through to the 1780s (but the folk dance
group is having an Austen ball in a couple of months and I recently acquired some

nice dark blue spotted cotton so that may get pushed up a few years....)
Claire

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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 20:51:37 -0700
Status: RO

Okey-doke....here goes Sue, babbling on....
I'm on this list because it's *not* the SCA.  It's my relief from
it...not that I don't enjoy it, really I do, but I like other things as
well, and there are _no_ other reenactment/recreation groups in the
_state_ that I'm aware of.  This is my place to learn, and experiment,
and drool in awe at people's work (I'd just _die_ for something of
Bjarne's for instance ;-D) I get that in the SCA, too, but this is
*different*, and I cherish that.

My primary areas of knowledge/practice are 16th century monochrome
embroidery and English (Tudor/Elizabethan) women's clothing.  Robin's
seen my blackwork *snort*, so she can vouch for how crazy I am about
that.....
But, I've been having the time of my life learning about, and being
tempted by, everybody else's areas of interest, especially
ECW/Restoration, American Colonial, and Victorian/Edwardian (I'm pretty
vague about the latter because I don't know much about it, but there's a
lot of it I'd like to play with <g>).  And I've been taking Ben's
classes on early and middle Anglo-Saxon clothing, along with a *whole*
lotta others through Penny's website (just ask her...she makes jokes
about it, sometimes <g>)
I think the thing I like most about this list is how passionate and
involved we all are in our various areas of interest, whether we
specialize in theatrical costuming, or adore movies, or do costume/SciFi
cons, or any one of the dozens of historical groups I've become aware of
through this list....And we're all over the world, which is completely
cool....
Oh, and last but far from least, it is a purely spiritual, mental, and
almost physical joy to have a chance to rub <electronic> elbows with
actual scholarly types....like Robin, or Ben, or Drea, or any of the
wonderful teachers from Penny's website (and Penny, too), and everyone
else that I'm drawing a complete bloody blank on [okay, so it's Saturday
night, and I left my brain in my desk drawer at work <g>]....You guys
challenge me, and that's a blessing.  Thank you.

--Sue (old, used SCA laurel)
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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 21:57:02 -0600
Status: RO



LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:


>Everybody on list send 
>in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred activity. If 
>you belong to more than one group, include all the groups you play with and 
>each will get a fraction toward the total. I'll keep a tally and send the 
>numbers in when I'm done. Perhaps the reason for the SCA geared threads is 
>there are more Scadians on list than others or that the Scadians are just 
>chattier/more vocal.
>
I used to do SCA, but moved away from it about 10 years ago.  With my 
experience there, though, I understand the context that many questions 
asked come from.

Since I switched my involvement from the SCA to the International 
Costumer's Guild, I have expanded my range of interests considerably 
(part of why I left SCA in the first place).  I can't claim a favorite 
time; I prefer to challenge myself with every new project I do.  There 
are outfits I did not think myself capable of doing, or suitable for my 
body type, that I know look forward to making.  I accept that my depth 
of knowledge isn't, and probably won't ever be, at the same level as 
many of you; that's my choice - to be a good dabbler rather than a great 
specialist.

I am on the h-needlework list as well as the following yahoogroups:

ICG-D - International Costumer's Guild
HistoricKnit - self-explanatory
Apicius - for people interested in cooking/recipes through time

Karen

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From: Claire Clarke <Lady_Angharad@bigpond.com>
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 15:36:36 -0800
Status: RO



Teddy wrote:

>
> > Ironing 5m of fabric is tedious to say the least.
>
> Yep - I often put some music on, or iron in front of a few episodes
> of Buffy on video or DVD.
>
> > Hence I usually try to avoid pre-washing where possible.
>
> Nothing could persuade me to do that - I prefer the security of
> knowing my fabric has been wash-abused and shrunk *before* I
> take the time to make it up - thatway whatever I make can be
> thrown in the machine and washed whenever it needs it instead of
> waiting for me to jfeel rich enough to afford drycleaning bills.
>

I can't say I've ever had any serious shrinkage accidents. Mind you I
make most of my stuff so that it doesn't need to be washed, and the
under layers are mostly linen, which doesn't seem to shrink much, and
loose which doesn't matter if they do. I always wash on cold anyway.
That probably helps. The most troubles I've had when washing have been
when some friendly person has decided to help out with washing and
thrown hand-wash only stuff into the washer, or washed on warm stuff
which has only ever been washed on cold.



>
> > Is there a clever way around this? Or is it yet another of the joys
> > of a front-loader?
>
> Nope, i think Ironing is a universal drudge-chore no matter where
> your washer loads from....<G>

Hmmm, probably why I rarely ever do it. And it's hot work too, which
is all the more reason (in my books) to avoid it (says she who just spent

two days straight cooking).
Mostly I think I'm just lazy....:-)
Claire

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From: Crissy <sewinggoddess@att.net>
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 00:11:07 -0500
Status: RO


Hi, my name is Crissy and I 'm a costume junkie.  I do belong to the SCA and I
enjoy the ability to be a little *different* in my garb.  Like a well fitted
period outfit in a periodoid-type fabric.....Now mind you... I fit everything
quite well, and the lines of the garments are usually close to correct. I just
like to use bright colors....it's an addiction.
  I also love corsets and I'm making a Victorian  corset off the laughing moon
pattern. I also go to visit a local Civ war event each year...and go
shopping.....
    Now my Mother does costumes for the local Opera company, so we discuss a wide
range of time periods between us.  I't really funny when we go fabric shopping
together and one of us will hold up a  bolt of fabric and squeal..."OOOhhh , look
wouldn't this make a GREAT ( insert costume piece here) "

Crissy

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 22:56:02 -0800
Status: RO

I am affliated with the SCA, and I do Elizabethan, Late Italian, and German
Renn.  Basically anything after 1500-1650.

I also like the Dangerous Liasions era of clothing... 1750--1785, but am not
affliated with any groups of that era as I don't live close enough to get to
anything like that on any kind of basis.

Brandy Dickson


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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 23:24:52 -0800
Status: RO




affiliation,--SCA, life in general


preferred year,--Almost all of them pre-1940


preferred activity.--Wearing wonderful, unique, me kind of clothes.

I have only been on this list for about a year and a half, but I find it's 
one of the things I look forward to every day.  It's like a recharger for my 
creative batteries when the rest of the world wants to grow up.  I will 
NEVER stop playing dress-up and I will never stop learning more about how to 
make the things I dream become reality.  God blessed me with a natural 
ability to sew and all of you have blessed me with the ability to do it 
Right!!

I think there is a lot of value in passing on our knowledge whatever level 
it is at.  Sometimes people ask questions and I even know the answers, so 
everyone has something to contribute as well as something to learn.

This week I slip out of historical mode and have six days to make a 
crossdyed taffetta gown for the "company formal" this year.  The beads and 
Venice lace still haven't arrived and I may have to debut before it's 
finished, but this one is just because I can so it's purple, full, and has a 
reinforced huge trained hem.  I get to float around all evening looking 
"smashing".  Who could ask for more?

Jennifer




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From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 02:40:35 -0600
Status: RO

At 12:47 PM 3/2/2002 -0500, you wrote:

>In a message dated 2/3/02 7:31:43 AM, margali@99main.com writes:
>
><< > I've been noticing a lot of h-costume conversations lately geared toward
>SCA activities.  I get so much out the higher level, 'scholarly' type threads
>here, and I guess I just want to keep it that way. >>
>
>Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list send
>in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred activity. If
>you belong to more than one group, include all the groups you play with and
>each will get a fraction toward the total. I'll keep a tally and send the
>numbers in when I'm done. Perhaps the reason for the SCA geared threads is
>there are more Scadians on list than others or that the Scadians are just
>chattier/more vocal.
>Lady G

Good question Lady G.  Well, here goes...

I've been historical-clothing obsessed most of my life and got into the SCA 
about 14 yrs ago to have an excuse to make some of the stuff.  My specialty 
is 16th c. English but, I also am interested in the 16th c. in a lot of 
other places, 15th c, 17th c, 18th c, 19th c, first half 20th c...  you get 
the idea... : )  I want to try playing/reenacting with other times & groups 
but haven't had time to pursue that right now... (the joys of being a grad 
student).

Cheers,
Danielle
(SCA Gwendoline Rosamond) 

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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 19:21:11 +1030
Status: RO

<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>I'm on the list because I love history, not the political or religious stuff but the day to day lives of all classes. My favourite pediods are 1400 - 1900, although all I've made so far is Gothic, Roman and several Italian Renaissance gowns, I'm planning some Elizabethan and Tudor gowns for this year (If I can afford the fabric!).</DIV>
<DIV>I've been part of a Living History group (ancient to 1800) for a couple of years.</DIV>
<DIV>I want to go to University to study history.</DIV>
<DIV>I love this list because if someone has a question all they have to do is send it in and responses come pouring out. It's a great help to know that you have the minds of so many great costumers to pick.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Rebecca Anderson</DIV>
<DIV>aka</DIV>
<DIV>Lady Adele Anders</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>P.S&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>You wrote : From: "Jennie Chancey" &lt;<A href="http://lw12fd.law12.hotmail.msn.com/cgi-bin/compose?curmbox=F000000001&amp;a=144f73ed7f794906376a41e8306a7eaf&amp;mailto=1&amp;to=jchancey@ala.net&amp;msg=MSG1015127674.53&amp;start=2046034&amp;len=22741&amp;src=&amp;type=x" target=_top><FONT color=#000099>jchancey@ala.net</FONT></A>&gt;<BR>"&nbsp;I'm one of those crazy people who actually wears this stuff<BR>on a regular basis to the grocery store. I don't have a lot of patience with<BR>ugliness in fashion and just refuse to wait for the rest of the world to<BR>catch up (or is it "regress?")! LOL!"<BR>Me too, me too!</DIV>
<DIV>you get a lot of strange looks, but its a great conversation starter.<BR></DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. <a href='http://g.msn.com/1HM101201/13'>Click Here</a><br></html>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: silk question
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 14:48:07 +0100
Status: RO

HI Robin! 
>>> More than you wanted to know!
>> On the contrary!!!! feed me more! yummy!
> Oh, golly. The bliaut is a frequent topic of discussion on this list. Have
> you looked at the archives at <http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion/archives>?
> I can point you to a few threads that address this topic that I
> happen to have saved notes on, as follows:
> 
> Real & unreal - fold lines -- Oct 2000
> Queen of Sheba bliaut (WAS Paris trip report) -- Jan 2001
> Bliaut patterns/instructions -- Nov 2001
> 
> You can search for those by subject line, and you can probably find a lot
> more by searching subject lines just for the words "bliaut" or "12th
> century" or "Chartres."
> 
> That should keep you busy for a little while ;-)

Thank you for the tip! I just joined the list last week and am starting to
get a feel for what's here!

Thanks again!

Cass :)

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Subject: [h-cost] Sueded silk? Working at Fabric Store
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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 09:15:22 -0600
Status: RO

Hey Lalah,

I know what you mean.  Its a toss up here as to whether the fabric or the
books will take over the house.  Never worked at a book store, probably
never would have a paycheck if I did. ;>

Genie

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Subject: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 09:27:08 -0600
Status: RO

I'm a member of the St Louis Costumer's Guild.  Never had much chance to get
into SCA or other historical costuming.  Another member of SLCG and on this
list Karen Heim got me interested enough to subscribe to this and
h-needlework.  I've been to two Costume Con's and helped run CC16 a few
years ago.  I sew, of course, and have done one or two masquerade
presenttations with the group..Time and finances kepp me from doing much
more.  The postings on these two list are always
informative_and_entertaining (thanks Bjarne and Teddy).

Genie

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Mar  3 10:37:40 2002
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From: Crissy <sewinggoddess@att.net>
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 11:24:28 -0500
Status: RO

Paycheck?  You mean you're supposed to bring them HOME???? And not trade your
services in the store for more fabric????   Oooops! I guess I've been doing
it wrong all these years....<sigh>

 <giggle>

 Crissy, Assistant Manager, Jo-Ann Fabrics.

Genie wrote:

> Hey Lalah,
>
> I know what you mean.  Its a toss up here as to whether the fabric or the
> books will take over the house.  Never worked at a book store, probably
> never would have a paycheck if I did. ;>
>
> Genie
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Mar  3 10:42:33 2002
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 11:41:57 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Sat, 2 Mar 2002 LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:

> Everybody on list send in an e-mail listing your affiliation...

None, if you mean groups to "play" in. I research medieval costume, and I
lecture for various audiences on request, including SCA groups, writer's
organizations, college classes, etc. I also lecture for academic
conferences in medieval studies, particularly the annual Medieval Congress
at Kalamazoo, where I organize a track of textile/dress sessions annually
and give papers roughly every other year.

Because I focus on medieval costume and speak for SCA groups, people who
know me only online usually assume I'm in the SCA. I was, when I was in
college, but I have not been active for nearly 20 years. I am still in
close touch with many of my onetime SCA friends, some of whom are still
active.

> preferred year...

11th through 15th centuries, mostly France/Flanders/England, though I
stray a bit sometimes.

> preferred activity.

I study not just practical construction, but also the use of costume in
artwork, with an eye to distinguishing the differences between real and
symbolic elements. I also study the development of medieval costume
scholarship over the last couple of centuries, mostly as a means to track
down the origins of questionable theories.

Because my focus isn't specifically on making things to wear, I don't
always sew the clothing I study; some of my best research has been on
clothing that never existed. What I sew, I don't always finish,
particularly if my interest is testing a construction method. Once I've
figured out the cut, I am not terribly interested in trims, decoration,
accessories. (Though I greatly admire people who can embroider, make lace,
or do other such embellishment. I have no patience for doing this myself.)

I love this list -- I have met so many people with so many specialties.
There are a lot of areas I know I'm weak in, and it's great to know that I
can toss out a question to this group and almost always find *someone* who
has studied it already. I've also made some good friends through this
list.

--Robin

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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 08:41:06 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I've sewn most of my life and have always loved to play dress-up
(you'd think I'd outgrow that...). Anyway, I'm in the SCA; I went to
my first event in Germany 12 years ago and was bitten by the
costuming bug (nasty little thing--there's no cure and treatment is
*very* expensive!!). :-D

I love 16th century Italian clothing--it's what I wear most of the
time. I'm learning about Tudor and the Cranach-style German gowns
because I have friends who want gowns like them (gonna learn and then
teach them how to make them...).

Authenticity is something that's very important to me. When I'm
teaching someone to sew, I try to gently nudge that person in the
direction of making their garment as authentic as possible. It's
amazing to see when they realize that being more authentic doesn't
have to cost lots more and doesn't always take more time.

The H-Costume list is great! I've my own archive of postings from the
list that numbers over 1,000. One of these days (in my copius amounts
of spare time) I'll organize them, print them and put them into a
binder.

Kate
known in the SCA as THL Ailith Mackintosh

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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 13:59:59 -0800
Status: RO

I would never penalize anyone for being SCA.  Or for not being SCA, for 
that matter.  The fact that SCA costume standards are notoriously lax does 
not imply that every member agrees with those standards.  I don't, tho I 
understand why some do.  (For example, I have low standards for the 
periodness of the SCA food I eat and high ones for the SCA clothes I wear, 
feast-wench slops included, but you say your cooking slops are the least 
period of all your SCA garments, while your cooking is likely to come with 
footnotes and awards.)  There are 'serious' historical costumers, and 
very-non-serious ones, in every costume-wearing historical group.  OTOH, I 
live in Northern California, and I know 
sheep-owner/spinner/weaver/knitter/natural-dyer/garment-maker people who do 
no living history at all.

BTW, I used to have a commute like yours.  When I lived in Southern 
California (joined the SCA in 1971), I had one job where my husband and I 
lived in San Diego, a major metropolitan area, and I worked in Anaheim, in 
another major metropolitan area, 90 miles away.  My deepest sympathies and 
sincere commiseration.

>And there are those of us on the list who hand make clothing in
>appropriate fabrics and colors for the particular time and place
>using the most stringent research they can find, and by hooking
>up with museum curators and archeologists that still get
>penalized for being SCA by other 'serious' historical costumers.
>margali
>member of the SCA 23 years and counting, and with the exception
>of cooking slops every garment made and worn accurate. I even
>carve bone and cast my own jewelry and pins for my roman, norse
>and scythian clothing. When I kept sheep, I took my wool and
>turned it into clothing using dye stuffs scrounged from my woods
>and scoured the wool with soap made from sheep fat and wood ash
>lye. I may lurk most of the time, but then again I don't know
>many people on any mailing list that commute 70 miles each way to
>work through a major metropolitan area, work a full day and still
>have to maintain hearth and home.
>
>--
>~~~~~
>The Quote Starts Here:
> > I've been noticing a lot of h-costume
> > conversations lately geared toward SCA activities.  I get so much out the
> > higher level, 'scholarly' type threads here, and I guess I just want to 
> keep
> > it that way.
>_______________________________________________
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>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Kayta
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Mar  3 13:38:37 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 15:24:34 -0800
Status: RO


>Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list send
>in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred activity.

This reply just ate an hour and a half, so my first pass is what you 
get.  Where there is no group affiliation it means I am still looking for a 
group, so I have to wear the clothes whenever I can.  I'm on h-costume 
because it's got an amazing collection of costumers, who know tons of stuff 
I don't and will answer questions if I ask nice.

SCA (since 1971); interest (mostly) in German/Eastern Europe costumes 
1400-1600 and in making things for the total slice-of-life look, from 
furniture to lighting to wall hangings to tools, dishes, embroidery and 
needlework, and 'moveables'.

Renaissance Faire (since 1974); interest in costumes (German, English), 
living history (and props for), knitting, needlework and embroidery, 
crafts, manners.

Georgian (since 1976), no group; interest in the clothes and manners.

English Regency (since 1983), various groups; interest in costumes, 
embroidery and needlework, dancing.

California Gold Rush/late 1840's (since 1996), no group; interest in 
costumes, California history, living history (and props for), displaced 
Californios.

Victorian/1840-60 (since 1982 or 83), Dickens' Faire; interest in costumes 
and living history (and props for), accents, manners, dancing, embroidery 
and needlework, crochet.

Victorian/1860-65 (since 1978), looking for ACW groups; interest in 
costumes, living history (and props for).

Victorian/1880's (since 1995), trying to contact Wild West groups; interest 
in costumes, Montana Territory/State history, living history (and props 
for), women's rights movements.

Victorian/1890-1910 (since 1975+), various living history sites and events; 
interest in costumes, docent work (and props for), Craftsman needlework and 
architecture.

1920-24, (since 1990) no group; interest in costuming and needlework.

PEERS/any period (since 1996); interest costumes and dancing.

Gaskell Ocasional Dance Society/"formal, 19th and 20th century" (since 
1980); interest costumes and dancing.

Early 1950's-60's (since 1990), no group; interest in costumes, dancing

Late 1960's-early 70's (since 1974), no group; interest in costumes, Hippie 
needle-crafts, beginnings of fibre art, alternative architecture.

Ethnic (since late 60's), no group; interest in
  Central Asia/1800+, costumes, embroidery, jewelry, ikat, Amur applique
  China/1800+, costume, embroidery, cloisonne
  Eastern Europe and Balkans/1800+, costumes and embroidery
  Egypt/Coptic, costume, weaving
  India/1800+, costumes, decorated fabric, embroidery
  Japan/1500+, costume, decorated fabric, Ainu costume and needlework
  Pacific Northwest native people/1800+, costumes, weaving, wood-work, 
design, silver-work
  Palestine/1800+, costumes, embroidery, cross stitch
  Russia/1500 to Revolution, costume and embroidery
  West Africa/1600+, costumes, decorated fabric, European trade beads

I'm also interested in future costuming as seen thru the eyes of years in 
the past, like a 1900 speculation on what people might be wearing in 1950, 
or that Space Age stuff Coureges was doing in the late 60's and the Pan Am 
stewardesses in the film '2001'.  Group - science fiction or costume 
conventions.

Kayta
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Mar  3 14:27:31 2002
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From: "Jennifer Thompson" <blue_jefiner@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 20:09:22
Status: RO

My name is Jennifer Thompson, and my main focus at the moment is on late 
15th c. and 16th, century costume.  I'm currently obsessed with Florentine 
fashions, but I am also interested in Flemish, Spanish, and German dress.  I 
love research and the more scholarly aspects of historical costume, and 
although my sewing skills aren't as good as they should be, I'm trying to 
learn as I go.

I am not affiliated with any organization, but I would like to get involved 
with a good, authenticity-minded re-enactment group if I ever live closer to 
a real city.  For the moment, I just wear my costumes to the Renaissance 
festivals here in Texas, but we live too far from them to go as often as I 
would like.  So sometimes I just wear my garb around the house and give the 
UPS man quite a surprise when he comes knocking on my door!  ;-)

-jen
http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Mar  3 14:33:23 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] why am I on H-costume
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 14:16:56 -0600
Status: RO


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Hello all, I must admit that I do play in the SCA; however I also like th=
e Boroque, Victorian and the Edwardian periods. Basically anything that h=
as "nummy" fabrics and a hoop and makes me feel "pretty"! I am a nurse mu=
ndanely and I have to be practical with my clothing. I enjoy this list be=
cause it gives me info from people who have far more experience in sewing=
 and costuming than I could ever hope to accumulate elsewhere.  Thanks Gu=
ys!    kim  Get more from the Web.  FREE MSN Explorer download : http://e=
xplorer.msn.com

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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>Hello all, I m=
ust admit that I do play in the SCA; however I also like the Boroque, Vic=
torian and the Edwardian periods. Basically anything that has&nbsp;"nummy=
" fabrics and a hoop and makes me feel&nbsp;"pretty"! I am a nurse mundan=
ely and I have to be practical with my clothing. I enjoy this list becaus=
e it gives me info&nbsp;from people who have far more experience in sewin=
g and costuming than I could ever hope to accumulate elsewhere.&nbsp; Tha=
nks Guys!&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; kim&nbsp;&nbsp;<BR><BR></DIV></BODY></HTML><b=
r clear=3Dall><hr>Get more from the Web.  FREE MSN Explorer download : <a=
 href=3D'http://explorer.msn.com'>http://explorer.msn.com</a><br></p>

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To: h-costume@indra.com, h-costume@indra.com
From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] make your own shoes?
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 11:21:50 -0800
Status: RO

At 12:08 PM 02/11/2002 -0800, Heather Meadows wrote:
>
>
>Has anyone read -- or used - this book?
>
>http://www.marywalesloomis.com
>


I have!  If you want to make variations on modern high heeled pumps,  it's
great. If you're looking for techniques to make pre 16th century shoes, or
soft flat slippers or boots, it won't do you much good. 

She has you make a plaster cast of your feet to use as a last, so it's good
for people with funny shaped feet. Her technique is actually modified from
millinery methods, stretching buckram and fabric over the last.  You still
need to buy, or salvage, heels and hardware like nails, braces, etc. 

Margo

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Subject: [h-cost] the SCA :) and other costume groups :)
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 12:08:21 -0800
Status: RO


>::Soap Box Warning::
>So, in many ways, it's the only creative outlet I have.  It kinda rubs me
>the wrong way when people roll their eyes at the fact that I do SCA, as
>though it discredits my hardwork and research that I invest in my costumes.
>I hate that the SCA has such a stigma attached to it, but I can't deny that
>I do enjoy the variety that it has to offer.  You definately get out of it
>what you put into it...

I totally agree with your last sentence quoted above.

The SCA has the costume standards it has because it was not originally set 
up as a historical-re-enactment group like, for example, the black powder 
groups.  It was originally a bunch of Hippies and Tolkein-readers 
protesting the 20th century, and having a Medieval farewell party for 
someone (writer Dianne Paxton) going away to the Peace Corps.  Over time 
'real' historians joined (and then some without the need for quotation 
marks), and the general level of costuming, and everything else, went up.

The problem is that the reputation stayed, and there's no fast/easy way to 
change it.  That the SCA isn't completely written off as 'just a costume 
party' is because of the people who really care about whatever their field 
of Medieval study is, and who maintain their own high standards.  That it 
still has its not-serious/party reputation is because of the folks who 
mostly just want to dress up and go there.  I know several of the original 
members, Ms. Paxton included, and costume scholarship just isn't their field.

I joined the SCA in it's fourth year of existence, and already there were 
members like myself who thought the usual costume level was pretty 
boring.  We all did what we could, by example and by teaching, along with 
the cooks and other crafters who cared more about their fields than about 
ours.  Things did get better.  It's easier to dress well in the SCA now 
than it was 31 years ago, if only because there are more books, patterns, 
research, pro costumers, and serious scholars now than there were 
then.  (The same goes for cooking and the other period crafts.)

The cure for my own impatience with SCA costuming was to branch out into 
other centuries, and other groups, where costuming was as important to them 
as it was to me.  That's probably the real reason I joined h-costume.  No 
matter how well the people in this group costume, and no matter why they do 
it, the costuming they do is as important to them as it is to me.

Kayta
    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 21:37:37 +0100
Status: RO

Mmm, do you ever sleep?

Cass :)
 
> This reply just ate an hour and a half, so my first pass is what you
> get.  Where there is no group affiliation it means I am still looking for a
> group, so I have to wear the clothes whenever I can.  I'm on h-costume
> because it's got an amazing collection of costumers, who know tons of stuff
> I don't and will answer questions if I ask nice.
> 
> SCA (since 1971); interest (mostly) in German/Eastern Europe costumes
> 1400-1600 and in making things for the total slice-of-life look, from
> furniture to lighting to wall hangings to tools, dishes, embroidery and
> needlework, and 'moveables'.
> 
> Renaissance Faire (since 1974); interest in costumes (German, English),
> living history (and props for), knitting, needlework and embroidery,
> crafts, manners.
> 
> Georgian (since 1976), no group; interest in the clothes and manners.
> 
> English Regency (since 1983), various groups; interest in costumes,
> embroidery and needlework, dancing.
> 
> California Gold Rush/late 1840's (since 1996), no group; interest in
> costumes, California history, living history (and props for), displaced
> Californios.
> 
> Victorian/1840-60 (since 1982 or 83), Dickens' Faire; interest in costumes
> and living history (and props for), accents, manners, dancing, embroidery
> and needlework, crochet.
> 
> Victorian/1860-65 (since 1978), looking for ACW groups; interest in
> costumes, living history (and props for).
> 
> Victorian/1880's (since 1995), trying to contact Wild West groups; interest
> in costumes, Montana Territory/State history, living history (and props
> for), women's rights movements.
> 
> Victorian/1890-1910 (since 1975+), various living history sites and events;
> interest in costumes, docent work (and props for), Craftsman needlework and
> architecture.
> 
> 1920-24, (since 1990) no group; interest in costuming and needlework.
> 
> PEERS/any period (since 1996); interest costumes and dancing.
> 
> Gaskell Ocasional Dance Society/"formal, 19th and 20th century" (since
> 1980); interest costumes and dancing.
> 
> Early 1950's-60's (since 1990), no group; interest in costumes, dancing
> 
> Late 1960's-early 70's (since 1974), no group; interest in costumes, Hippie
> needle-crafts, beginnings of fibre art, alternative architecture.
> 
> Ethnic (since late 60's), no group; interest in
> Central Asia/1800+, costumes, embroidery, jewelry, ikat, Amur applique
> China/1800+, costume, embroidery, cloisonne
> Eastern Europe and Balkans/1800+, costumes and embroidery
> Egypt/Coptic, costume, weaving
> India/1800+, costumes, decorated fabric, embroidery
> Japan/1500+, costume, decorated fabric, Ainu costume and needlework
> Pacific Northwest native people/1800+, costumes, weaving, wood-work,
> design, silver-work
> Palestine/1800+, costumes, embroidery, cross stitch
> Russia/1500 to Revolution, costume and embroidery
> West Africa/1600+, costumes, decorated fabric, European trade beads
> 
> I'm also interested in future costuming as seen thru the eyes of years in
> the past, like a 1900 speculation on what people might be wearing in 1950,
> or that Space Age stuff Coureges was doing in the late 60's and the Pan Am
> stewardesses in the film '2001'.  Group - science fiction or costume
> conventions.
> 
> Kayta
>   //// \\\
>  ////-@@\\\
> ((((   7 )))
>  (((  <> ))))
>     )   ((((((
> /----\   /---\))
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
From: Sarah Lorriane <lithiate@earthlink.net>
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 12:37:26 -0800
Status: RO

on 3/3/02 8:09 PM, Jennifer Thompson at blue_jefiner@hotmail.com wrote:

> My name is Jennifer Thompson,

HI JEN!!!  ::waves maniacally::

> and my main focus at the moment is on late
> 15th c. and 16th, century costume.  I'm currently obsessed with Florentine
> fashions, but I am also interested in Flemish, Spanish, and German dress.  I
> love research and the more scholarly aspects of historical costume, and
> although my sewing skills aren't as good as they should be, I'm trying to
> learn as I go.

Don't listen to her.  She's a vertiable sewing & research goddess.  ;)

> 
> I am not affiliated with any organization, but I would like to get involved
> with a good, authenticity-minded re-enactment group if I ever live closer to
> a real city.  For the moment, I just wear my costumes to the Renaissance
> festivals here in Texas, but we live too far from them to go as often as I
> would like.  So sometimes I just wear my garb around the house and give the
> UPS man quite a surprise when he comes knocking on my door!  ;-)

And what else is there in life but to make other people do double & triple
takes when they least expect it? ;)

So, since I was so into my soapbox the other day, I neglected to mention
what my specific interests are in the costuming paradygm.  As I stated
eariler, I'm loosely involved with the SCA and even more loosely involved
with faire.  I had my start at Northern, but moved away from it after I
realized that their idea of "theater" and my idea of "reality" conflicted
horribly.  Found the SCA and the shoe fit well enough to begin developing my
talents.

Interests: Um, lots of stuff.  Primarily, it's mid 14th c. Italian, early
15th c. Italian and Burgundian late 15th c. Northern/Flemish and English
clothing from 1500-1590.  The latter is what I've done the majority of my
work on.  

Authenticity is pretty much the emphasis with my clothing, but I'll never
admit to it being anywhere near authentic.  I like to get as close as I can
as far as money, resources and comfort will allow, but ultimately there is
always a point where I have to make a "cheat" in order to survive (it's no
question when it's a toss up between dying of heatstroke and wearing a 100%
wool gown in the middle of summer with all the appropriate layers of
clothing in between).

Sarah Lorraine

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From: Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Making your own linen
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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 13:36:20 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Someone in our local ad-hoc garb-making club wants to
start with flax and spin & weave his own linen. 
Personally I think he's nuts, but I would appreciate
it if anyone can direct him to info on this.  Thanks!

Iohanna the Harper
[Joan Hall]

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From: Sarah Lorriane <lithiate@earthlink.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Interesting french hood theory...
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 13:38:41 -0800
Status: RO

I stumbled across an ancient message from 1994 on Stephen's Florigilium on
the topic of a unique method of constructing a french hood, described by
Susanna Richardson.  Roughly, it consisted of a single piece of fabric with
a turned back "brim" that was shaped into the coronet structure (this is at
least what I was getting from her discription).  This totally goes against
99% of what the rest of the costuming world has been doing with french
hoods, but her reasoning sounded pretty compelling... It had to do with the
evolution from the black lappets of the hennin being retained and gradually
morphing into the structure we consider the french hood.  Does anyone know
anything else about this method, or if Susanna is reachable for further
clarification?  I'm totally intregued by her idea!

Sarah Lorraine

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 10:27:58 +1100
Status: RO

From: <LadyGryphon@aol.com>

>
> Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list
send
> in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred activity.

Affiliation: Pike and Musket Society (aka Routier). Year: circa 1642.
Activities: Sewing for family of four, two of who are constantly growing,
developing embroidery interests, and with the family, making camping
equipment (as good as is practical). I also turn up to things, either assist
or organise food preparation for events. Also research and advise on the
little things that make us look good, and where to find them/how to make
them.

No other actual fixed affiliations at the moment, but family has a working
knowledge, interest, and way too many books, costumes, and accoutrements in
many ages. One concentration is Ancient Roman (mainly Roman Britain), and
all ages through to the 16th century - mainly Britain. Some of these are
getting a bit old in their research, and am currently collating research to
make more extant-piece-style garments. Number One son has expressed an
interest in the Viking influenced times in Northern Britain, so I'll have to
get him some better clothing for that period shortly.

Glenda.


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My period of choice is early 19th century--1801-1821.  Mainly American 
Federal period, trying to figure out how American women were translating the 
styles of Europe.
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">My period of choice is early 19th century--1801-1821.&nbsp; Mainly American Federal period, trying to figure out how American women were translating the styles of Europe.<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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I will be teaching another session of "The Early 19th Century--the Total 
Look" beginning this week.  The emphasis of this class is doing primary 
research and then interpreting it to put together a fully-accessorized look, 
primarily for living history interpreters.
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I will be teaching another session of "The Early 19th Century--the Total Look" beginning this week.&nbsp; The emphasis of this class is doing primary research and then interpreting it to put together a fully-accessorized look, primarily for living history interpreters.<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] the SCA :) and other costume groups :)
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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 19:21:47 -0500
Status: RO

Greetings--

> The SCA has the costume standards it has because it was not originally set
> up as a historical-re-enactment group like, for example, the black powder
> groups.  It was originally a bunch of Hippies and Tolkein-readers
> protesting the 20th century, and having a Medieval farewell party for
> someone (writer Dianne Paxton) going away to the Peace Corps.  Over time
> 'real' historians joined (and then some without the need for quotation
> marks), and the general level of costuming, and everything else, went up.

While I would agree with most of this, I've heard other accounts from People
Who Were There who said that the mix was primarily Tolkien readers, fans of
Arthurian romance, and folks who had taken a medieval studies class here or
there in college (rather than hardcore hippies.  Of course, none of them
knew that what they were doing was founding a club, which explains a lot of
things about the SCA--it very much grew organically.

Sorry for the SCA digression...

Susan

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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 19:17:38 EST
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In a message dated 3/3/02 6:16:25 PM, nicolaa@columbus.rr.com writes:

<< which explains a lot of things about the SCA--it very much grew 
organically. >>

As a further digression-organic IS period. Right?
Lady G
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 20:11:32 -0500
Status: RO

Hello!

I'm Laurie, I've been in the SCA for about 13 years. I like to try a little
of everything, for many different periods. I prefer the post 1400's, but I
*really* like Greek chitons for summer events. Right now I'm torn b/w early
15th century English and late 15th c Italian (Venetian). Soon I'll be
entering unexplored territory, colonial American c.1750. My husband's idea,
should be interesting. If anyone can come up w/some tips for a settler's
wife, I'd appreciate it.
In reference to a current textile thread, I just picked up 5yds of grey/blue
wool sateen w/coodinating cotton brocade. The sateen was priced at
$10.00/yd, which I thought was pretty resonable for the quality.
As for the costume vs recreation, hobby vs scholar... please keep in mind
that the SCA has a bajillion active members, and we all play at the level
we're comfortable at. Some are more into the research, some prefer the "gee,
it *looks* like the picture" approach. With so many members, you'll find
just about every extreme, and then some:)

Laurie Gage
in the SCA as Isabeau de l'Isle

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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 21:19:14 -0500
Status: RO

I am in the SCA, and prefer to focus on 14th, 15th and 16th Century England,
Ireland and Scotland.  I joined this list because I am the kind of person
who loves learning, and saw this as a good list to learn the proper ways,
not only of how to DO, but on how to Research how to DO.;-)  I've always
been fascinated by cultures and peoples- now I'm fascinated by clothes too.
Moira bean Eoin
(modernly Heather)
----- Original Message -----
From: <LadyGryphon@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 12:47 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume


>
> In a message dated 2/3/02 7:31:43 AM, margali@99main.com writes:
>
> << > I've been noticing a lot of h-costume conversations lately geared
toward
> SCA activities.  I get so much out the higher level, 'scholarly' type
threads
> here, and I guess I just want to keep it that way. >>
>
> Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list
send
> in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred activity.
If
> you belong to more than one group, include all the groups you play with
and
> each will get a fraction toward the total. I'll keep a tally and send the
> numbers in when I'm done. Perhaps the reason for the SCA geared threads is
> there are more Scadians on list than others or that the Scadians are just
> chattier/more vocal.
> Lady G
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 21:12:48 -0500
Status: RO

>LadyGryphon@aol.com wrote:
>
>> Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list send
>> in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred
activity. I

Ha! Where to start...
-- Scottish Highland (1745) reenactment group
-- Baggage train for Thirty Years War (1630s)
-- Misc. War of 1812 events, sometimes
-- Sometimes show up for French & Indian War Events, as my Scottish
Highland kit mostly translates (petticoat, shift, jacket, shoes)
-- Thinking about putting together a 1869 flavor outfit for the occasional
Western Shooting occasion, or just for fun
-- Thinking about putting together some Edwardian-flavor outfits, just for fun
-- "" some WW II period outfits, just for fun

<grin>

-- Mara

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Subject: [h-cost] A new learning adventure
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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 21:16:19 -0500
Status: RO

I am really excited!!!  Tomorrow night I go to DuPont's manufacturing plant
to work on a Boy Scout textiles merit page with my teenage sons.  A lot of
people do not realize that DuPont manufactures a lot of man-made textiles.
The course's duration is three Mondays in March.  I can't wait to see what I
learn.

If you all want, I will report back what I learned.  BTW, this is the last
time the Richmond, VA Dupont plant will offer this course, but you might
want to check a plant near you and see if they offer the program.  This is a
great way to introduce teenager Scouts to the textile industry.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Subject: [h-cost] Re: sueded and "felted" silk
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 12:10:53 -0800
Status: RO

At 8:59 AM -0500 3/1/02, Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

>FYI, my friend told me that no one is really sure how many silk cuccoons
>were used at a time to make thread for weaving. One thread is so fine you
>can barely see it, but some people say that as few as two were put together
>for a weaving thread. Others do not agree.

For a random data-point, after a workshop in reeling silk, I ended up 
with a spool of 20-strand silk thread which, if doubled, makes a very 
nice sewing thread.  (Not doubled, it's not quite strong enough.)  I 
could imagine weaving with the 20-strand thread, but pretty much only 
gauze-weight fabrics.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 19:10:56 -0800
Status: RO

I'm on this list to learn anything I can about almost any period of
costume/clothing.

My primary activity is with the SCA (19 years this June eep!) where I am
focused on early 14th Century Welsh reinactment.  I'm also working on a
costume library to help people in my area decide what they want to wear.
The goal is to not only have my online and paper library, but a binder for
each culture and time period which will have information on appropriate
fabrics(with swatches so that non-A/R folk know what it looks and feels
like), embellishments, colours and silhouettes.  A lot of the locals in my
area rely on Norris and Peacock for their inspiration, and I'd like to have
other things available for people.

I've also been involved in Black Powder/Rendevous and Pioneer reinactment,
Renaissance Faires, and invited to join a Dicken's Choral Group.

I want to know a little bit about most eras up to about the 1890's, and be
conversant with the differences in styles, whether European, Eurasian, or
other.

Angharat







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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 19:43:08 -0800
Status: RO

I thought that wearing my Tibetan Panel Coat and some other clothing would
be fun while traipsing the Northwest Sewing Expo yesterday.

Because of its, shall we say eye-catching quality, I was requested by the
Needle Arts Guild to prepare an hour long presentation, with an hour of
questions afterwards for next year.

The gist of what I am understanding is that they would like to have me bring
in some of the work I am doing for my interests-whether historical or for
science fiction/fantasy conventions, so long as it has needlework involved,
and talk about it. They are looking for more things to raise interest in
people, and to encourage people to do more needlework.

Since I'd have 17 months to prepare for this, I thought I would give it a
try.  However, I've never been the main speaker for anything, especially not
for anything interesting like costuming or embellishments, nor have I ever
had to speak for more than ten minutes.

I know a lot of you have experience in this and was wondering how some of
you might advise on how to approach and tighten up a subject like this.

My first impression is to pick one central time frame and show how people
now are using needle arts to recreate that time period-whether the Middle
Ages, Elizabethan, Regency or something else.  In all honesty, I would
probably need to pick the Middle Ages, simply because I personally have the
most information and finished projects in this area, and will be working on
7 more for the local Costumer's Guild Challenges this fall.

Does this sound like it could be a feasible start on a topic?

Angharat



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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 20:02:56 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


>I stumbled across an ancient message from 1994 on Stephen's Florigilium on
>the topic of a unique method of constructing a french hood, described by
>Susanna Richardson.  Roughly, it consisted of a single piece of fabric with
>a turned back "brim" that was shaped into the coronet structure (this is at
>least what I was getting from her discription).  This totally goes against
>99% of what the rest of the costuming world has been doing with french
>hoods,

Truthfully, this _is_ how I constructed my first one, based on what
I was seeing in paintings.  I also decided that without constructing a
real block for a buckram frame, it was a pain to stiffen.  Then I came
across everyone else's two-piece french hoods and slapped myself on the
forehead.  "Duh!  That's SOOOOOO much eaiser to do!"  I'm almost always
under time constraints for costumes, and hats are the one frivolity I
permit myself to spend a lot of time messing with.  But I'm still not
up to making my own hat blocks, or completely wiring a non-framed piece
just so it'll stand up.  

Oh god, I just remembered the first hat I made.  I used copper wire and
Pellon for the frame.  The Pellon at least solved the problem of "how do
I pad out this sucker?"  I've since learned more period methods.  The 
spoon bonnet I made used red flannel as padding (red silk dupioni cover).
Come to think of it, I may still have the buckram frame for that first
french hood attempt up on a shelf somewhere...

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] the SCA :) and other costume groups :)
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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 20:08:25 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

"Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com> wrote:
> [...]
> , and folks who had taken a medieval studies class here or
> there in college (rather than hardcore hippies.  Of course, none of them
> knew that what they were doing was founding a club, which explains a lot of
> things about the SCA--it very much grew organically.

Most of the "hippies" in Berkeley _were_ students.  Take a look at the 
footage of student protests in "Berkeley in the 60s."  Funnier, one of
my friends' parents were among that first little group that formed the
SCA and they were out at the People's Park protests in armor.  Which 
I suppose isn't too stupid an idea if you're pretty sure a riot is
going to happen.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 23:02:24 -0800
Status: RO


> >Has anyone read -- or used - this book?
> >
> >http://www.marywalesloomis.com
> >
>
>
>I have!  If you want to make variations on modern high heeled pumps,  it's
>great. If you're looking for techniques to make pre 16th century shoes, or
>soft flat slippers or boots, it won't do you much good.
>
>She has you make a plaster cast of your feet to use as a last, so it's good
>for people with funny shaped feet. Her technique is actually modified from
>millinery methods, stretching buckram and fabric over the last.  You still
>need to buy, or salvage, heels and hardware like nails, braces, etc.

The method is great for about 1600 onward, except for maybe 1800 thru the 
1840's.  Shoes and boots.


Kayta
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Subject: wool in Summer (was Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 23:33:55 -0800
Status: RO


>I like to get as close as I can
>as far as money, resources and comfort will allow, but ultimately there is
>always a point where I have to make a "cheat" in order to survive (it's no
>question when it's a toss up between dying of heatstroke and wearing a 100%
>wool gown in the middle of summer with all the appropriate layers of
>clothing in between).

The Landsknechten at Northern have figured out how to do the 
wool-plus-underlayers thing in a California Summer, and I'm here to tell 
you it's possible, even livable.

Kayta
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting french hood theory...
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 23:37:20 -0800
Status: RO

Gosh, that's what I always thought.  And why I thought it.

>Roughly, it consisted of a single piece of fabric with
>a turned back "brim" that was shaped into the coronet structure (this is at
>least what I was getting from her discription).  This totally goes against
>99% of what the rest of the costuming world has been doing with french
>hoods, but her reasoning sounded pretty compelling... It had to do with the
>evolution from the black lappets of the hennin being retained and gradually
>morphing into the structure we consider the french hood.  Does anyone know
>anything else about this method, or if Susanna is reachable for further
>clarification?  I'm totally intregued by her idea!


Kayta
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 23:52:00 -0800
Status: RO

Sleep?  Is sleeping period?

Oh, I forgot the ECW thing I did, and would like to get more into, as 
there's a local group forming.  Sure I sleep.  I just don't go to as many 
events as I'd like to.

>Mmm, do you ever sleep?
>
>Cass :)
>
> > This reply just ate an hour and a half, so my first pass is what you
> > get.  Where there is no group affiliation it means I am still looking for a
> > group, so I have to wear the clothes whenever I can.  I'm on h-costume
> > because it's got an amazing collection of costumers, who know tons of stuff
> > I don't and will answer questions if I ask nice.
> >
> > SCA (since 1971); interest (mostly) in German/Eastern Europe costumes
> > 1400-1600 and in making things for the total slice-of-life look, from
> > furniture to lighting to wall hangings to tools, dishes, embroidery and
> > needlework, and 'moveables'.
> >
> > Renaissance Faire (since 1974); interest in costumes (German, English),
> > living history (and props for), knitting, needlework and embroidery,
> > crafts, manners.
> >
> > Georgian (since 1976), no group; interest in the clothes and manners.
> >
> > English Regency (since 1983), various groups; interest in costumes,
> > embroidery and needlework, dancing.
> >
> > California Gold Rush/late 1840's (since 1996), no group; interest in
> > costumes, California history, living history (and props for), displaced
> > Californios.
> >
> > Victorian/1840-60 (since 1982 or 83), Dickens' Faire; interest in costumes
> > and living history (and props for), accents, manners, dancing, embroidery
> > and needlework, crochet.
> >
> > Victorian/1860-65 (since 1978), looking for ACW groups; interest in
> > costumes, living history (and props for).
> >
> > Victorian/1880's (since 1995), trying to contact Wild West groups; interest
> > in costumes, Montana Territory/State history, living history (and props
> > for), women's rights movements.
> >
> > Victorian/1890-1910 (since 1975+), various living history sites and events;
> > interest in costumes, docent work (and props for), Craftsman needlework and
> > architecture.
> >
> > 1920-24, (since 1990) no group; interest in costuming and needlework.
> >
> > PEERS/any period (since 1996); interest costumes and dancing.
> >
> > Gaskell Ocasional Dance Society/"formal, 19th and 20th century" (since
> > 1980); interest costumes and dancing.
> >
> > Early 1950's-60's (since 1990), no group; interest in costumes, dancing
> >
> > Late 1960's-early 70's (since 1974), no group; interest in costumes, Hippie
> > needle-crafts, beginnings of fibre art, alternative architecture.
> >
> > Ethnic (since late 60's), no group; interest in
> > Central Asia/1800+, costumes, embroidery, jewelry, ikat, Amur applique
> > China/1800+, costume, embroidery, cloisonne
> > Eastern Europe and Balkans/1800+, costumes and embroidery
> > Egypt/Coptic, costume, weaving
> > India/1800+, costumes, decorated fabric, embroidery
> > Japan/1500+, costume, decorated fabric, Ainu costume and needlework
> > Pacific Northwest native people/1800+, costumes, weaving, wood-work,
> > design, silver-work
> > Palestine/1800+, costumes, embroidery, cross stitch
> > Russia/1500 to Revolution, costume and embroidery
> > West Africa/1600+, costumes, decorated fabric, European trade beads
> >
> > I'm also interested in future costuming as seen thru the eyes of years in
> > the past, like a 1900 speculation on what people might be wearing in 1950,
> > or that Space Age stuff Coureges was doing in the late 60's and the Pan Am
> > stewardesses in the film '2001'.  Group - science fiction or costume
> > conventions.
> >
> > Kayta
> >   //// \\\
> >  ////-@@\\\
> > ((((   7 )))
> >  (((  <> ))))
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> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
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Kayta
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  h-costume
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 23:48:07 -0800
Status: RO


>As for the costume vs recreation, hobby vs scholar... please keep in mind
>that the SCA has a bajillion active members, and we all play at the level
>we're comfortable at. Some are more into the research, some prefer the "gee,
>it *looks* like the picture" approach. With so many members, you'll find
>just about every extreme, and then some:)

Everyone seems to have their own authenticity bug.  And people who are 
authentic in one field are usually not in some other field.  My costumes 
are such that I get called a 'costume Laurel' in the SCA, and I've been a 
historical judge at 3 different CostumeCons.  OTOH, at mealtimes I sneak 
off to my car, open a can of something, and stick the spoon right in it to 
eat, no heat, no preparation.  (An 'iced tea' spoon will reach all the way 
to the bottom of a can of soup and still stick out far enough to not get 
your fingers icky.)  I am in awe of real cooks.

Kayta
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Mar  4 02:25:17 2002
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From: "Jane Williams" <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 08:07:27 -0000
Status: RO

On 2 Mar 2002 at 18:56, Robin Netherton wrote:

> On Sat, 2 Mar 2002, Jane Williams wrote:

> > Can I take any of those pretty pictures as being accurate, useful, or
> > anything else?

> As redrawings go, some of these are really quite good; Shaw is a more
> faithful copyist than some of his contemporaries. .....
 
> The best use is this: If you see something in here you like, you can then
> track down the original and work from that. If you don't know where to
> find the original, give a holler -- I could put my fingers on half of
> those images within 60 seconds on my own bookshelf, and I bet there are
> others on this list who could do the same.

Well, the one I'm interested in at present is a collection of C14 headdresses, on page 
149

http://www.williams.nildram.co.uk/crafts/c14headdresses_sm.jpg

(Those who are gently guiding me in the direction of Doing Things Right suggest that I 
really ought to be wearing something on my head).

So I'm staring at that little lot, wondering how to make any of them and which is the 
most practical.

Finding the original: Shaw says "The manuscript to which we refer appears to have 
been written and illuminated toward the south of France, during the reign (1364-1380) 
of Charles V. It was formerly in the Lamoignon Collection, from which it passed to the 
library of the Duke of Roxburghe, from whom it was purchased by the trustees of the 
British Museum ..... It is a fine manuscript on vellum, contaiing a copy of the French 
text of the Romance of King Meliadus..... battle scenes, varied now and then with 
tournaments. The latter are always accompanied by numerous figures of ladies, as 
spectators, amd have furnished us with the greater part of the subjects on the facing 
page..."


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Subject: [h-cost] New Corsetry book-Foundations of Fashion
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 08:13:46 -0000
Status: RO

For those interested in undergarments :)

Foundations of Fashion by Philip Warren

The Symington Corsetry collection 1860-1990

Fashionable corsetry, foundation wear and swimwear, from the collections of
this famous Leicestershire manufacturer, producer of the famous Liberty
bodice. Original advertising, photos, factory equipment

Either direct from corsetry@outofprintbooks.co.uk or via www.bookavenue.com

Mel
.

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 08:10:22 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

As requested:

Affiliation:  The Tudor Group
Preferred Year: 1560-1603
Preferred Activity: Living history group - so we do scenes from everyday living - I mainly do
textiles.

Definately interested in the scholarly aspects.

Rachel

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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 09:46:41 +0000
Status: RO

Affiliation : The Sealed Knot (English Civil War reenactment) for past 25 years, and a music group which is an offshoot of same.
Years: 1630s/40s
Activities: Nowadays, civilian living history (music and some knitting/lucetting)
and playing music at historic houses.

(The SK is another society which started more than 30 years ago with members in makeshift "fancy dress" and has gradually moved towards greater accuracy. Because we're a very big society with some members more interested in battles (and beer) than costume, some of the smaller and more tightly controlled reenactment groups are inclined to sneer, but the living history section works hard to be as authentic as possible.)

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Date id of German doll head
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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 11:28:04 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

> Does it cost an arm and a leg to make the reproductions? I've seen
> pictures of reproduced Bru and Jumeau heads that are incredible. I
> really don't need another expensive hobby and I already have boxes
> of dolls with no place to display them. But...I fell in love with
> this Jumeau. 
> 
> Beth

It's been quite a number of years since I made any porcellaine dolls 
but I doubt the relative costs have gone up much.   There are 
several ways of doing it.  You could buy the doll parts ready made 
and assemble and dress (historical costume content!!..<G>) the 
dolls yourself, this gives you the choice of hair colour and style too 
as you can buy the heads without the wigs and choose the eye-
colour you want too... You could buy readt made but undressed 
dolls to dress for yourself, or you could invest in the moulds for the 
heads you particularly like and start producing your own for the cost 
of the slip (liquid clay) and other materials, plus the firing costs (if 
you have acdcess to somewhere with a kiln that will fire your 
pieces for you) or by getting your own small kiln (bigger initial 
investment, cheaper in the long run) and firing your own.  This 
works out especailly well if you buy moulds for lots of different 
heads but of the same size - that way you only nees one set of 
hand and feet moulds that you can use for all the heads.

If you're relly interested in getting more info, check out some of the 
doll making magazines (there must be websites too, but i haven't 
looked) ... there may be a place in your area doing beginners 
classes in porcellaine doll making.

As to heads pirated from original dolls, they tend to be smaller than 
the originals as the clay shrinks in the drying and firing process.  
The pirated mould is taken from the (already shrunk) finished doll 
head, the heads made from that mould are slightly smaller (I forget 
how much) because they shrink once dryed and fired.

Hope this helps

Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] rubber-backing (WAS: Teddy/Orange.. got me too)
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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 11:41:56 +0000 (GMT)
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> I've always wondered if there was any way to remove the rubber
> backing. Has anyone ever tried to? laurie

I've had *some* luck with boiling the fabric - it's hit and miss 
though.  I have two lengths of the same fabric that were both 
backed.  I boiled both (seperately, they wouldn't fit in the machine 
together) and one came out with the backing flakey so it could be 
rubbed/peeled, the other didn't change at all.
 
Teddy

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linda and Orange.. riiiighhttt.
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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 11:37:19 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> That's what we all need to see Teddy.
> 
> An enourmous 50 year old woman decked out in a neon orange
> Elizabethan costume. 

The bigger you are, the more there is to display the fabric on... that 
can be seen as an advantage, you know.... and the colour isn't 
exactly neon - unless the colour is off a *lot* on my monitor your 
scan of the fabric, it's into the duller range by my standards.  Just 
look on it as a challenge to make the outfit look sophisticated and 
sumptuous rather than just *LOUD*

> It would give small children and animals nightmares for years!
> LOL...

Toughens them up for life.  You should ask some of my firends 
about the teenage boys I've worried while wearing my Rocky Horror 
outfit in public.  

http://www.sfgoth.com/~tenebrae/teddy/rh.html

I'd be willing to bet that they think twice about taking out their 
attitude problems on anyone who dresses "wierd" after they've 
encountered me.....  <evil-bunny grin>
 
> Who knows maybe I will find the right client for it.  :)

That would be good too.
 
> Now all I have to do is get the moth ball smell out of it.. why anyone
> would store polyester fabric in moth balls.

They go for polyester too, so do carpet beetle - not as much but it 
does happen.

I still find it a crying shame that these fabrics are made in 
polyesters instead of all in natural fibres.   I will resort to polycotton 
belends simply because it's cheaper to buy and there's often 
more/better choice of colour and patern in the available polyblemd 
fabrics than in natural fibre brocades and adamasks at affordable 
prices

Teddy


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 12:14:46 +0000 (GMT)
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> Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list
> send in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred
> activity. If you belong to more than one group, include all the groups
> you play with and each will get a fraction toward the total. I'll keep
> a tally and send the numbers in when I'm done. 

Several groups, one similar period coverage to but *not* SCA. one 
15th century, mostly Wars of the Roses, until recently, also one 
17th century - English Civil War group.

Also interested in most periods up to 1840s (mens) or 1930s 
(womens) with a definate gap for both around the later 17th century 
when mens and womens clothing was (in *my* opinion) just plain 
*ugly* .....<G>

Mostly I do late(ish) 15th and some 16th century stuff.

Teddy
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Subject: [h-cost] Teddy and other orange freaks;)
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 01:30:37 +1300
Status: RO

Tangerine, wool, 150cm wide, $NZ5/m

That's like less than $US2 per yard.

I do not know just what i am going to do with 5m of the stuff, but I'm
thinking of a full length coat trimmed with black with wool embroidery,
lined in blue. So called "mundane wear, but not.

Or should I do some real german ren stuff.

I'm torn, I'll get some wear and jaw drops with the coat idea, but it
screams Cranach.

really just wanted to make a few people envious with this post;)

I'm still stunned by the price, I really am. It's a furnishings shop... why
can't fashion fabrics stores here have the same kind of sales????

michaela
orange freak from childhood. So now I have hair to match;)
http://recital.tripod.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A pot to ... in
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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 12:45:26 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> I can't say I've ever had any serious shrinkage accidents. Mind you I
> make most of my stuff so that it doesn't need to be washed, and the
> under layers are mostly linen, which doesn't seem to shrink much, and
> loose which doesn't matter if they do. I always wash on cold anyway.
> That probably helps. The most troubles I've had when washing have been
> when some friendly person has decided to help out with washing and
> thrown hand-wash only stuff into the washer, or washed on warm stuff
> which has only ever been washed on cold.

Ah... well, most of my stuff gets washed right along with my 
everyday clothes (lots of it get *worn* as everyday clothes too) 
andthe only way I sort my washing is by colour with the occasional 
delicates wash for knitted sweaters.  If it needs hand-washing, I 
don't own it.

Most of my stuff *needs* washing.  Appart from mud and dirt from 
just being at outdoor events (sometimes soaked upas far as the 
knee at winter events or very wet "English Summer" ones) there's 
stains from spillages (serving or just accidents at fearsts) children 
(grubby and stuicky hands dirty shoue when I'm carrying, plus the 
rolling on the floor wlie playing with them,  and all the marks from 
brushing aginst dirty stuff in big costumes where it's pretty 
unavoidable (full length houpellande with big dagged sleeves in a 
narrow staircase up the tower of a 12 the century castle, for 
example).

I'm not a tidy person, and I don't tend to avoid things that could 
prove dirty or messy... my stuf *has* to be washable...<G>

Of course, now that I'm King, I get ordered out of the kitchens and 
back to High Table if I try and wander in to help serve or wash up 
during a feast...<grump!>

Teddy

Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, King of the Far-Isles, part-time Knave, Creature of
air and darkness, and Hairdresser of Death apparently!)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 07:09:49 -0600
Status: RO

I was infected by the costuming bug at the tender age of 14 when I joined
a Rev War group thru the auspices of a Senior Girl Scout troop. I was
already predisposed to a costuming obsession due to an unhealthy interest
in playing dress up as a child. I went on to participate in the SCA (and
still do when other activities permit), and then I got assimilated by the
RenFaire and have been concentrating on later 16th century ever since. In
the SCA my persona is technically an Anglo-Saxon, but I've always loved
the cotehardie styles and would like to get more proficient at them. I'm
also getting into Victorian these days and would love a good excuse to
make Cavalier.....and I've done a bit of Regency. 

I've been on h-costume since summer of '97, and I've enjoyed both the
discussions we've had on the board, and meeting folks from the list in
person (Hi Teddy, Mel, Danielle, Melanie, Drea, Deb, and everyone else
I've had the pleasure of meeting). This list is a constant source of
inspiration!


Karen
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From: The Duchess <duchess@bustles-and-bows.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 13:09:20 +0000
Status: RO

At 12:47 02/03/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred activity.

No affiliation as I haven't found any group in my era of preference 
(1880's) so I just attend whatever festivals etc that I can locate.

Lissa aka Elizabeth, Duchess of Woking by decree of HRH Queen Victoria 
(Ilfracombe)

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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 13:43:53 -0000
Status: RO

Can we get some

Mel

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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 06:55:46 -0700
Status: RO

Hey....definitely good legs...but doesn't it get a little -uhm- cool?
when worn in public <weg>
--sue

Teddy wrote:
> 

> Toughens them up for life.  You should ask some of my firends
> about the teenage boys I've worried while wearing my Rocky Horror
> outfit in public.
> 
> http://www.sfgoth.com/~tenebrae/teddy/rh.html
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 09:18:30 EST
Status: RO

If you are trying to appeal to a broad audience, I think the Middle Ages 
might be, or seem, like a turn-off.  But you are right, you do need a way to 
organize your topic, and you probably do want to show a variety of techniques 
and ideas.  Maybe a "through time and place"--one technique from one time 
period, another from another.  What kinds of needlework seem really big where 
you are, and how can you tie in to that enthusiasm?  Quilting, for example, 
seems big all over, and many of those people (forgive me, list members, if 
you are among them) seem to be real fanatics.  (Not that we costume people 
are fanatics!  If I put all that time and effort into a project, I want to 
wear it!)
This sounds like a great opportunity for you.  Are they paying you, I hope?
Ann Wass
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Mar  4 09:45:23 2002
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Date: Mon,  4 Mar 2002 09:20:44 -0600
Status: RO

> Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list> send in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred
> activity. If you belong to more than one group, include all the groups
> you play with and each will get a fraction toward the total. I'll keep
> a tally and send the numbers in when I'm done. 

My name is ALexandria and I'm a garbaholic- oops, that's a different group.

I've been doing SCA off and on as life allows for just about 12 years.  My main interest is late Elizabethan, but when asked, or the spark happens, I'll make Norse to Cavalier, for friends, family and myself.  I have a couple of eras that I also wear besides the Elizabethan, include Byzantium, circa 1000, and Venetian, circa 1500, and since signing up with an earlier period laurel, I've also started adding a lot of 14th century stuff. One of my goals in life is to have something from every era and country in the SCA period, whether it's a life size copy or for a doll display.  I figure I have a life expectancy of another 40-50 years, I might make it..

Alex
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Teddy and other orange freaks;)
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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 15:22:14 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Tangerine, wool, 150cm wide, $NZ5/m
> 
> That's like less than $US2 per yard.

Wow!
 
> I do not know just what i am going to do with 5m of the stuff, but I'm
> thinking of a full length coat trimmed with black with wool
> embroidery, lined in blue. So called "mundane wear, but not.
> 
> Or should I do some real german ren stuff.
> 
> I'm torn, I'll get some wear and jaw drops with the coat idea, but it
> screams Cranach.
> 
> really just wanted to make a few people envious with this post;)

Well, you've succeded.
 
> orange freak from childhood. So now I have hair to match;)
> http://recital.tripod.com

Love some of the fantasy stuff....

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linda and Orange.. riiiighhttt.
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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 15:30:24 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Hey....definitely good legs...but doesn't it get a little -uhm- cool?
> when worn in public <weg> --sue

> > http://www.sfgoth.com/~tenebrae/teddy/rh.html

Depends where and when the "public" is.... I've travelled by tube 
(underground train) through London to get to the theatre dressed in 
that outfit (alone and with groups of friends) I've walked through 
various towns (including various bits of London)... ok that's mostly 
in the summer, though there was the time I got changed in the 
sports-club next door to the Royal Free Hospital in Hampstead 
(where I was working at the time) and had to travel by train to 
Wimbledon (where the theatre was) during a fairly chilly February 
Evening so I put on a little red crushed velvet dress for the journey 
and shimmied out of it when I reached the lobbey of the theatre 
(much to the amazement and of the young man who had just 
handed me my ticket and thought I was a girl until I dropped the 
dress....<Evil grin!>)

Teddy
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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 10:43:32 -0500
Status: RO

Pardon my de-lurking...
Yes, I'm one of the ones who doesn't pipe up too often.

I am not in SCA.
Affiliated with no groups, except Costume Society of America.
Theatre Costume Design student.
Don't do too much actual costume-making for myself - no where to wear it!
Most interested in learning actual historical details, thus I appreciate the SCAdians -  
and all - who have really gotten in and studied the minutiae.
Preferred years of study - 1885 to 1935 - and underwear in all time periods.

Back to silent-mode,
Kathy Hoover



 Everybody on list send in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred activity. 
If you belong to more than one group, include all the groups you play with and 
each will get a fraction toward the total. 

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Subject: Re: playing at different levels (was Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 10:57:26 EST
Status: RO

Giggle:) thanks for the tip on the 'ice tea spoon, Kayta, I'll make a note of 
that!!! When I'm desperate and short on time:)
Although my main focus is costumning and embroidery--I do love cooking---and 
have done several feasts throughout  my SCA years, where I tried to be as 
authentic as possible for the time period I was working in. 
I can also relate to what Teddy was saying about being' booted out of the 
kitchen while  being King'----when I became Crown Princess for our local SCA 
Kingdom---a week before the huge  period Roman  feast I'd planned-----no one 
warned me that the day I showed up to do my feast  it would be 'yanked out 
from under me':( I was really , really disappointed.And am still 'miffed' 
after all these years--that I never did get to cook my Roman feast :( On the 
other hand, I get to do a French early 16th century one later this month--:) 
In time --perhaps, I can talk them into another Roman one --(evil grin)
Albra/Kathryn
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 08:08:23 -0800
Status: RO

I would be interested in this information also, as I'm considering
weaving my own linen for a 14th century chemise.

Colleen

-----Original Message-----
From: Joan Garner [mailto:joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com]
Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2002 1:36 PM
To: costume list
Subject: [h-cost] Making your own linen


Someone in our local ad-hoc garb-making club wants to
start with flax and spin & weave his own linen. 
Personally I think he's nuts, but I would appreciate
it if anyone can direct him to info on this.  Thanks!

Iohanna the Harper
[Joan Hall]

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting french hood theory...
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 10:16:22 -0600
Status: RO

It makes sense to me as well. Also the french hood's shape would be more
flattering to its younger, and probably, at first, mostly unmarried, earlier
wearers, especially in England. One got to show at least a little of one's
crowning glory and didn't have the heavy lappets of the gable hood to act as
:blinders to a degree. The so-called gable-hood, was probably intentionally
unflattering to most as matrons and older women were not supposed to be
slaves to their appearance. Jane Seymore, as Queen, banned the French Hood
to her ladies-in-waiting and other attendants. Historians assumed that she
did so so as to be id'ed as more moral than Anne Boleyn, but a later
portrait of Anne, as well as her coronation medal portray her in an English
gable hood in the same style as Jane's famous portrait.

Cindy Abel


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 11:35:41 EST
Status: RO

> Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list send
> in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred activity. 

I was in SCA while I was in college, but had to drop due to time constraints 
after graduation.  (You can't fit three-day weekends and six-day workweeks 
into the same Gregorian calendar week.)  I majored in theater, and have a 
strong interest in history, the two of those are what got me interested in 
costuming.  Most of my costuming in recent years has been for my nephew for 
Halloween, but I'm hoping to start sewing more stuff for me.

Leah
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To: h-costume@indra.com, h-costume@indra.com
From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 08:51:07 -0800
Status: RO

Why am I on H-costume?  It doesn't actually have much to do with groups
with which I'm affiliated.  I'm on H-costume because it's my community.  

I joined the list when I was a stay home mother with a newborn and a three
year old.  I had no money to spend on fabric, and I couldn't get much
sewing done because there was always a child in my lap.  H-costume rescued
me from the crushing loneliness of motherhood and gave me a group of people
I could talk to about the things that interested me, even if I did have to
do all my posting one handed because I was breastfeeding the baby while
typing!

When we moved, I found myself in a small town where the only costuming is
of the polyester saloon girl Old West variety.  I decided to try teaching
classes through the Parls and Rec department, and the list was there to
answer my questions, offer advice, and cheer me on when I wrote the
syllabuses (syllabi?) for my Elizabethan and Gold Rush classes.  

I found a somewhat local group of costumers, when the Sacramento chapter of
the International Costumers Guild had its inception on the list.  

And, when an out of the blue I was offered the opportunity to start my
pattern business, you were there for me again, offering advice on
everything from pattern drafting software to packaging, helping me find my
way when I realized things  I thought I knew were wrong, and cheerleading
me through the two years it took to make my dream come true.  

The time I've been on this list has been the most rewarding, artistically,
technically, and yes, it's beginning to look like financially, of my life,
and I owe a huge part of it to the members and administrators.  I don't say
it often enough, so let me finish this valentine by saying thank you to
each and every one of you.  I love you guys!

Margo




"One Tough Costumer"

Costume Classes in Northern California:  www.margospatterns.com/mayclass.htm

See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 18:50:10 +0100
Status: RO

 
> I found a somewhat local group of costumers, when the Sacramento chapter of
> the International Costumers Guild had its inception on the list.
> 
> And, when an out of the blue I was offered the opportunity to start my
> pattern business, you were there for me again, offering advice on
> everything from pattern drafting software to packaging, helping me find my
> way when I realized things  I thought I knew were wrong, and cheerleading
> me through the two years it took to make my dream come true.

Hi Margo!

Hopefully in the two months I will be able to show some of the fruits of
your labor - I've gotten your patterns and they will help with my own dress
:))) I have started looking through the manuals and they look really good!

As soon as the project is finished (it has to be done by May 1!) I will try
to get picture on line!

Cass :)

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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Teddy and other orange freaks;)
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 12:47:52 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

So why not make both the coat and the cranach gown? <g>  At $2/yard, why
not?


On Tue, 5 Mar 2002, michaela wrote:

> Tangerine, wool, 150cm wide, $NZ5/m
>
> That's like less than $US2 per yard.
>
> I do not know just what i am going to do with 5m of the stuff, but I'm
> thinking of a full length coat trimmed with black with wool embroidery,
> lined in blue. So called "mundane wear, but not.
>
> Or should I do some real german ren stuff.
>
> I'm torn, I'll get some wear and jaw drops with the coat idea, but it
> screams Cranach.
>

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From: " Sarah Goodman" <lithiate@earthlink.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting french hood theory...
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 01:44:22 +0800
Status: RO

Well, I did play around with this last night and I learned a few things.  First, this style of hood makes a dead-on replica of the earliest french hood style that was somewhere between henin lappet and french hood (the portrait of Catherine of Aragon as a young woman is a good example).  The other thing I learned is that it doesn't give enough of a "coronet" effect.  I wired the edge and it didn't help much.  Those of you who have made this work, how did you get the turned back edge to "stand up", if you will, to give the appropriate coronet, as with the later style of hood (1540's)?  Is there still a seperate structure that the hood part attaches to via the billiments or am I just going about this all wrong?  

BTW, I was going off of Norris' pattern in _Tudor Fashion_ if that has something to do with it.  He's pretty vague about the construction right about 1540 or so; he hints that the coronet part becomes a seperate piece right about this time, but his illustrations suggest that they're still one piece.  Argh.

Sarah

-----Original Message-----
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 23:37:20 -0800 
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting french hood theory...


> Gosh, that's what I always thought.  And why I thought it.
> 
> >Roughly, it consisted of a single piece of fabric with
> >a turned back "brim" that was shaped into the coronet structure (this is at
> >least what I was getting from her discription).  This totally goes against
> >99% of what the rest of the costuming world has been doing with french
> >hoods, but her reasoning sounded pretty compelling... It had to do with the
> >evolution from the black lappets of the hennin being retained and gradually
> >morphing into the structure we consider the french hood.  Does anyone know
> >anything else about this method, or if Susanna is reachable for further
> >clarification?  I'm totally intregued by her idea!
> 
> 
> Kayta
>     //// \\\
>    ////-@@\\\
>   ((((   7 )))
>    (((  <> ))))
>       )   ((((((
> /----\   /---\))
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

-- 


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Subject: [h-cost] Why I'm here
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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 17:46:35
Status: RO

Affiliation: SCA

Want to affiliate with (when I have more money): International Costumers 
Guild, Embroiderers Guild of America, American Sewing Guild

Time Periods/Geography: Renaissance Italy (my SCA persona), Islamic areas 
(my husbands' persona), with occasional forays into Tudor (my wedding 
dress), Elizabethan, and 12th c. England

My first exposure to Historical Reenactment was as a Girl Scout - we had a 
camping event at a local Living Historical Farm in Central Ohio - 1870's - 
1880's. There I learned to hand quilt, which I am going to take up again 
Someday.

My first exposure to sewing/needlework was definitely in the womb - my 
mother is an accomplished needleworker - sewing, knitting, crochet, 
needlepoint. (she recently picked up shuttle tatting) She used to compete at 
the Ohio State Fair and won a LOT of awards.

I joined the list back in 1999, and it's because of an almost compulsive 
need to Do It Right. I love seeing the pictures of people's projects, and 
the conversations on how things were done. I especially love being able to 
ask about people's experience with different techniques - like lacing holes.

Mary K. Temple
Austin, Texas
SCA:
Lady Katerine Rowley
Bryn Gwlad, Ansteorra

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From: Angela Kovatch <a_kovatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] the SCA :) and other costume groups :)
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 10:43:07 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Another factor that helps to explain the lower overall
costuming standards in the SCA is that there are no
spectators.  There are people who want to come to
events just for the fighting, or the partying, or the
shopping, or the dancing, or, or.  The rules state
that in order to even be present, you have to be
wearing "an attempt at pre-1600 clothing," yet not
everyone actually cares about detail.  At Ren Faires
the performers hold themselves to one standard
(probably varies by faire), and the visitors get to do
whatever they want; also at other living history
events there are the re-enactors, and the spectators,
who do not dress up.  And no one confuses the people
who aren't making a serious study with those who are. 
Since, in the SCA, anyone who wants to participate at
all is a "member" (paid member of the official
organization or not, they're usually treated as a
member by the local group), of course your overall
standard will be lower.

My two cents.

-Angela
known in the SCA as Wentlian Harper, and trying also
to become known for beautiful and authentic clothing -
thanks to all here for helping me pursue that goal.


--- Susan Carroll-Clark <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
wrote:
> Greetings--
> 
> > The SCA has the costume standards it has because
> it was not originally set
> > up as a historical-re-enactment group like, for
> example, the black powder
> > groups.  

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From: Angela Kovatch <a_kovatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 11:16:37 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

My current list of costuming projects I'd like to do
includes (in no real order):

-Elizabethan
-Tudor
-14th century European (haven't really narrowed it
down much more than that)
-14-16th century Persian
-16th century Ottoman Turkish
-16th century European's idea of Ottoman clothing
(this is what I think of when someone says "historical
costuming")
-Italian Renaissance
-Edwardian
-Victorian
-ACW or antebellum, haven't narrowed it down yet

I am active in the SCA, and it provides a great place
to wear the 16th c. & earlier stuff.  I had been
planning to make the later stuff just for fun but
didn't really have anywhere to wear them, until I
recently found out about a dance group in my area that
centers around 1840-1910 (I'm not sure if that's
exactly right).  Although I haven't yet managed to go
to any of their "tea dances" or balls, I plan to get
involved at some point.

Additionally, my boyfriend wants one of those jackets
with the high collar, I think it's 1795ish, that I
will make for him for just fancy dress wear.  Also, I
guess I have agreed to build him a 12th century Welsh
wardrobe (in exchange for him driving me to the fabric
store every time I want to go, since I don't have a
car).  We also occasionally do various ethnic or
historically themed clothing just for fancy dress or
everyday wear.  I am less concerned with authenticity,
and more willing to blend in modern materials or
stylings, when I'm not planning on wearing an item to
a reenactment event.

I have really enjoyed the enthusiasm about "getting
the details right" for historical clothing, that I
have seen on this list in the time that I've been here
(don't remember when I joined, but I remember being
here a year ago and probably before).  Also, it's a
great resource for pointing me in the right direction
when I decide I want to embark on a new era or style
that I don't as yet know anything about.

Like many on this list, I was bit by the costuming bug
at a young age.  Before my mother (a homemaker and
seamstress) would allow me to use the sewing machine,
she did let me sit at it with the power off, and I
would "gather" cloth onto the needle and pretend to
sew.  Of course I played dress-up, but I also enjoyed
taking big remnants of cloth from my mother's
projects, and designing various togas and saris for
myself.  Then a BA in theatrical costuming set me well
on my way to a desk job and a wonderful hobby. :)

-Angela


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References: <sc834ff3.086@wvugrpwise1.wvu.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 14:33:59 -0500
Status: RO

<<<from one redhead to another>>>

Hi Kathy!!!!!!  Making your bi-annual visit out of  the Land of Lurkdom!!!
And when do you graduate?????

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kathy Hoover" <khoover@wvu.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 10:43 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume


> Pardon my de-lurking...
> Yes, I'm one of the ones who doesn't pipe up too often.
>
> I am not in SCA.
> Affiliated with no groups, except Costume Society of America.
> Theatre Costume Design student.
> Don't do too much actual costume-making for myself - no where to wear it!
> Most interested in learning actual historical details, thus I appreciate
the SCAdians -
> and all - who have really gotten in and studied the minutiae.
> Preferred years of study - 1885 to 1935 - and underwear in all time
periods.
>
> Back to silent-mode,
> Kathy Hoover



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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 12:14:11 -0800
Status: RO


>Giggle:) thanks for the tip on the 'ice tea spoon, Kayta, I'll make a note of
>that!!! When I'm desperate and short on time:)
>Although my main focus is costumning and embroidery--I do love cooking---and
>have done several feasts throughout my SCA years, where I tried to be as
>authentic as possible for the time period I was working in.

I have authentic-looking place settings, and table manners, for all the 
characters/periods I usually do, for events where you bring those and 
someone else cooks.  At events where I can buy food from a booth, I dump 
their food onto my dishes and eat it in front of the mundane tourists, 
using table manners appropriate to the social class of my 
character/costume.  This is especially fun when I have just sneaked away 
from a Victorian/Edwardian event, still in costume, and gone to a fast food 
place.  Yes, hamburgers and french fries can be eaten with knife and fork, 
while still wearing ones gloves.  I'm making a Victorian knife and fork 
carrier from a Godey's, intended for use while traveling, just for 
this.  But when I don't have to eat in public, it's the cans in the car, or 
leftovers in Tupperware in the ice chest.

Kayta
    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 13:50:54 -0800
Status: RO

Lee M. Thompson-Herbert wrote:
> "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com> wrote:
> > [...]
> > , and folks who had taken a medieval studies class here or
> > there in college (rather than hardcore hippies.  Of course, none of
> > them knew that what they were doing was founding a club, which
> > explains a lot of things about the SCA--it very much grew
> > organically.
> 
> Most of the "hippies" in Berkeley _were_ students.  Take a look at the
> footage of student protests in "Berkeley in the 60s."  Funnier, one of
> my friends' parents were among that first little group that formed the
> SCA and they were out at the People's Park protests in armor.  Which I
> suppose isn't too stupid an idea if you're pretty sure a riot is going
> to happen.

But they were mostly things like *history* students, not textile 
archeology students. (It was a history post-grad's graduation party, 
after all.)

I think that many of the SCA people I know on this list and not on 
the list have gone *way* beyond that. I know that I found the SCA 
to be a place where I could have synergy with people who knew 
more than I did about costuming and textile archeology and it grew 
from there.

I'm definitely SCA (for nearly 20 years now), but I have a lot of 
interests (pre17th century in all the periods and mid18thC 
especially). (Although I assure you I delete everything about 
Victorian/Edwardian costume and feel those people can delete any 
accidental SCA reference I make just as easily.)

However, I've been doing sewing since age 3 1/2years (although the 
needle in my sister's heel with all the hospitalization made a 
moritorium until I turned 4) and I've been doing costumes for myself 
since I was in grade school (since mom would sew them for herself 
but I was on my own for me. She *always* won our church 
halloweeen costume contest! I always thought that it was unfair 
she wouldn't do something just as good for me.) 

I ended up joining the SCA because there *were* people doing 
costumes for more than just Halloween. (And I quickly learned a 
lot!) 

I've tried some other reinactment groups and things like Costume 
Con, but just don't find them as satisfying as the SCA (even with all 
it's warts.)

I am also on this list because I found other textile archeology 
junkies like me. ;) (But I wouldn't have found it without the SCA.)


Kateryne of Hindscroft, OL, GdS, etc

All it takes for evil to triumph is for the good to do nothing.
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 17:07:42 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 3/4/2002 3:22:30 PM Eastern Standard Time, kayta@frys.com 
writes:

<< while still wearing ones gloves.  >>
Are you SURE that Victorian/Edwardian manners called for wearing gloves while 
eating?  I cannot quote chapter and verse, but I think it highly unlikely.
Ann Wass
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 14:37:05 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


> << while still wearing ones gloves.  >>
> Are you SURE that Victorian/Edwardian manners called for wearing gloves while 
> eating?  I cannot quote chapter and verse, but I think it highly unlikely.

Actually, I remember reading one of those etiquette books.  You could
eat with your gloves on BUT we're talking about the type of gloves 
that button at the wrist.  So you pulled your hand out of the main
glove and out through the opening made by unbuttoning the gloves.
This would be for an afternoon tea.  Luncheon, dinner and supper
were informal or formal meals and different.

Oh, and there was a bit in the section on a lady's wardrobe
that noted one should have extra white gloves to deal with
soiling from jellies and jams.  So for tea, at least, it was
normal.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making your own linen
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 10:56:15 -0800
Status: RO

At 1:36 PM -0800 3/3/02, Joan Garner wrote:
>Someone in our local ad-hoc garb-making club wants to
>start with flax and spin & weave his own linen.
>Personally I think he's nuts, but I would appreciate
>it if anyone can direct him to info on this.  Thanks!

I've done it -- well, I didn't weave cloth, I made a little 
bobbin-lace doily.  It was long enough ago that I don't remember 
exactly what books I was working from, but there are a lot of 
"history of linen" type books that will describe the process.  One 
important thing is to be prepared for a lot of experimentation, and 
for not necessarily getting all the way to woven cloth the first 
time.  When you're first figuring out how to process the fiber, you 
can get a lot of wastage.  I started out with a very small plot of 
flax: about 4x4 feet.  And I ended up with a doily about four inches 
in diameter (plus a bunch of miscellaneous thread ends).  A lot of 
the loss was in the initial separation of the fiber from the woody 
core -- I'd probably retted the flax either too long or not long 
enough.  Then, in hackling it, I probably ended up discarding more 
than half my fiber as too short (because it hadn't been processed 
properly in the breaking process).  At any rate, I would undoubtedly 
have gotten a better yield the second time, but I'd moved on to other 
projects.  (This was more or less a "just to say I can" project for 
me.)  I've also had people tell me that I'd have gotten better 
results using a different strain of flax.  If he hasn't spun linen 
before, then it'll also take him a bit of experience to learn to spin 
a fine and even enough thread to weave with.  And he needs to 
understand that he's unlikely to be able to produce shirt-quality 
linen any time soon -- I'd be aiming for something in the line of 
"very nice quality burlap".

He's not nuts -- but the learning curve is fairly steep.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 23:15:52 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Mon, 4 Mar 2002, Jane Williams wrote:

> Well, the one I'm interested in at present is a collection of C14
> headdresses, on page 149
> 
> http://www.williams.nildram.co.uk/crafts/c14headdresses_sm.jpg
> ...
> 
> Finding the original: Shaw says "The manuscript to which we refer
> appears to have been written and illuminated toward the south of
> France, during the reign (1364-1380)  of Charles V. It was formerly in
> the Lamoignon Collection, from which it passed to the library of the
> Duke of Roxburghe, from whom it was purchased by the trustees of the
> British Museum ..... It is a fine manuscript on vellum, contaiing a
> copy of the French text of the Romance of King Meliadus..... battle
> scenes, varied now and then with tournaments. The latter are always
> accompanied by numerous figures of ladies, as spectators, amd have
> furnished us with the greater part of the subjects on the facing
> page..."

This image was new to me. I'm intrigued by some of the expressions on the
ladies' faces, and wonder if they're faithful to the original! Some of the
clothing styles, particularly those in the middle row, look a bit
suspicious for 14th c. French -- I would place those necklines and lacing
arrangements, and the headdresses too, at a later date and perhaps in
other countries (e.g. Germany). Shaw obviously did a little mix-and-match
for this page. Either he pulled material from another source, or else this
manuscript includes artwork from two periods, which does occasionally
happen -- and Shaw notes that the manuscript's illumination was not
completed, so it might have had some work added at a later date. I haven't
heard of this manuscript, so it's possible also that it was later
reclassified/redated (e.g. it might have been two separate pieces bound
together).

The clothing and headdresses in the top and bottom rows are mostly within
the realm of possibility, if you ignore the waistline seams (surely Shaw's
addition), but you can find many examples from this period in other, more
reliable books, such as Margaret Scott's "Visual History of Costume: The
14th and 15th Centuries," or Millia Davenport's "Book of Costume."

I would love it if someone on this list could identify the source(s) of
these images. Hard to believe I've never even heard of "The Romance of
King Meliadus."

--Robin

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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 20:35:22 -0800
Status: RO

I'm finally having my website worked on.  My Sweetie is doing the hard 
part, setting it up so all I have to do in add images and text from time to 
time.  I intend to include costumes I have made, antique/ethnic stuff I 
own, how-to articles from historical magazines I own, and notes/patterns 
from classes I have given, as well as the obligatory pictures of cats and 
children.  I also hope to link to every costume resource site I routinely 
visit.

How do I get permission to make links from my site to someone else's 
site?  I'm thinking of those cool resource sites some people on this list 
have, also of museums and commercial parts-sources.  Is it correct 
nettiquite to ask first, or shall I assume if it's on the web then it's OK 
for me to just set up a link?  What's the correct place to actually link to 
- the home page, or the coolest image on the site?

How early does a thing's copyright date have to be for me to put it on my 
site and not violate the law?  For example, I own a pre-printed dress from 
the Bucilla embroidery company, dated 1925 right on it, where the 
embroidery is done but nothing is cut out.

How do I keep honest people from using the stuff on my site for their own 
commercial purposes, while still letting them use the stuff?  Is there a 
share-ware-like situation where I can put something I created, and if 
people want to use it then they are requested to send me some little bit of 
money?  Is there a way to prevent the downloading of some of the images?

I plan to keep my site simple to download and navigate, using no 
complicated graphics, animation, etc.  Is there any other thing I need to 
remember, to keep things user-friendly?  Besides good content and new 
things every once in a while, what makes a cool costume site?

Kayta
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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 20:49:19 -0800
Status: RO


><< while still wearing ones gloves.  >>
>Are you SURE that Victorian/Edwardian manners called for wearing gloves while
>eating?  I cannot quote chapter and verse, but I think it highly unlikely.

If one were eating outdoors at a sidewalk cafe, I don't believe the gloves 
came off.  Places like McD would qualify, if one ate outdoors.  But I will 
look in my Charles Dana Gibson book, recently unearthed, to see what he 
shows women wearing at outdoor cafes in the 1890's.  You are certainly 
right about anything formal.

Kayta
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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 20:55:26 -0800
Status: RO

on 3/4/02 8:35 PM, Carolyn Kayta Barrows at kayta@frys.com wrote:

> I'm finally having my website worked on.  My Sweetie is doing the hard
> part, setting it up so all I have to do in add images and text from time to
> time.  I intend to include costumes I have made, antique/ethnic stuff I
> own, how-to articles from historical magazines I own, and notes/patterns
> from classes I have given, as well as the obligatory pictures of cats and
> children.  I also hope to link to every costume resource site I routinely
> visit.

Welcome to the dark world of costuming websites... :)

> 
> How do I get permission to make links from my site to someone else's
> site?  I'm thinking of those cool resource sites some people on this list
> have, also of museums and commercial parts-sources.  Is it correct
> nettiquite to ask first, or shall I assume if it's on the web then it's OK
> for me to just set up a link?  What's the correct place to actually link to
> - the home page, or the coolest image on the site?

What I normally do is just drop a line to the person whose site I'm linking
to, stating who I am, what I do, why I admire their site and ask if it's
cool if I link to it.  I've never been turned down.  I've also made some
good friendships with people who I've met while getting permission to link
to their site. 

Now, speaking as a website owner, I don't have a problem if someone links to
my site without asking permission or giving a heads-up.  That's just my
personal feeling about it... As long as no one is plagerizing, I'm cool with
it (a quick search on google lets me keep tabs on who is using my site for
what reason).  I haven't been completely ripped off at this point in time,
but I'm sure there's a good possibility of it happening.  However, I don't
let it keep me up at night worrying about it.

> 
> How early does a thing's copyright date have to be for me to put it on my
> site and not violate the law?  For example, I own a pre-printed dress from
> the Bucilla embroidery company, dated 1925 right on it, where the
> embroidery is done but nothing is cut out.

I'm totally clueless about copyright issues... And it shows.  I've been
meaning to research the matter more thoroughly, because I've been opperating
under the assumption that as long as I credit the owner of the artwork, I'm
not hurting anyone.  Apparently this isn't the case as far as the net is
concerned (works well with school papers, though).  I'd be interested in
hearing the particulars about this, too.

> 
> How do I keep honest people from using the stuff on my site for their own
> commercial purposes, while still letting them use the stuff?  Is there a
> share-ware-like situation where I can put something I created, and if
> people want to use it then they are requested to send me some little bit of
> money?  Is there a way to prevent the downloading of some of the images?
> 

There are some ways of making it slightly more difficult to steal images,
but there are simple ways around those.  Thing is, I chose not to worry to
much about this happening.  There's been a couple of instances where I've
joined a group on Yahoo! only to discover that images of my work have been
"stolen" from my site and placed in a folder in the group for discussion,
though.  It does bother me that people have done this (mainly because it's
less work to just link to the site and go from there, rather than download
the image to the computer and then upload it to Yahoo!), but as far as I can
tell, it's harmless discussion involved.  Except for the pictures of my
corset that someone swiped for discussion... That was a bit awkward, but
that's only because it's kind of weird to find images of yourself in your
underwear on someone elses' site...

Again, it's all up to how "selfish" you feel about your work.  The way I
look at it, the images on my website are free to whoever wants to look at
them and that opens me wide up for issues like the ones I've just described.
But, I knew that going into it, so it's not a major shock for me.  Just know
what you're up against before putting anything on the site that might be A)
Offensive in some way (even the most benign stuff is bound to rub someone
the wrong way, and they're going to tell you about it) and B) So cool that
someone will be tempted to snatch the content and use it for their own
devious purposes.  

> I plan to keep my site simple to download and navigate, using no
> complicated graphics, animation, etc.  Is there any other thing I need to
> remember, to keep things user-friendly?  Besides good content and new
> things every once in a while, what makes a cool costume site?

Number one thing that I think is absolutely crucial in a good costume site:
Pictures.  Lots and lots of pictures of original work with good detailed
shots from different angles, worn by living models and plenty of discussion
on technique.  Okay, so that's more than one thing, but I feel those are
terribly important in a good costume site.  Just my $0.02...

Have fun and drop us a link!

Sarah Lorraine
http://homepage.mac.com/lithiate

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Subject: [h-cost] Report Back from DuPont TextileTour
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 01:06:42 -0500
Status: RO

Oh, I am so excited after tonight big adventure touring one of three parts
of the DuPont plant here in Richmond, VA.  I wish all of you could have been
with us.  I learned so much.  There were 250 girl and boy scouts in our
group.  Very impressive that this many youngster wanted to learn about
textiles.  They split the group into three sets and sent us off to a
separate factory within the plant.  Each week we rotate factories until we
have been to them all.  They are VERY professional with the presentation and
organized so well.  All of the employees who helped with the presentation
volunteered to put it on for us.

So I will give you a little background on this plant, called Spruce Plant.
This plant has three factories, each manufacturing a different non-woven
textile.  The textiles are Kevlar, Nomex, and Teflon.  This plant is the
largest DuPont plant in the world. Dupont does have several other plants all
over the world that creates various types of textiles.  I asked what was the
first thing that DuPont manufactured.  It was gunpowder.

The textile we saw manufacturing tonight is Tyvek.  We first had a lecture
session, explaining the manufacturing process, characteristics, end uses,
etc.  Then we toured the factory.

So I bet a lot of you are wondering what Tyvek is?  You all have it in your
homes!  The little labels on your furniture that states that this label can
not be removed under penalty of law.  You have tried to remove it by hand
and it won't rip, then you have to cut it with scissors... that label's
textile is Tyvek.  And strength is its #1 advantage!  This textile is also
used for envelopes... the big soft white ones that are the dickens to open.
Guess who they were manufacturing Tyvek for tonight?  UPS.  They are going
to make envelopes out of the textile.  Remember how I said it is the dickens
to get into those Tyvek envelopes?  Tyvek is almost puncture proof, and
repels up to 60 lbs of water.  Don't you think that would make a great
package to ship good in?  Each bolt is tested at the beginning of
production.  The first 8 yards are removed and tested for flaws, durability,
strength, water resistance.  We got to see them testing for each.

Tyvek was discovered by DuPont in the 1967 on accident.  They were
experimenting to make another fabric and a vial on the vat leaked one night.
A steady stream of the solution went all over the floor.  When the workers
came into the factory the next morning the solution had hardened into a
textile!  The Richmond Plant has been manufacturing it ever since.  The only
other plant to manufacture the textile is in Germany.

Other things made out of Tyvek are windbreaker jackets, hats, and medical
supplies.  They are great for surgical covering because they have very
little lint.  We had a doctor in our group and he verified this.  The reason
it doesn't have lint is because Tyvek has the shortest fibers in the world.

Now I bet some of you are wondering what non-woven fabrics are? Think of a
piece of felt.  The Tyvek fibers are sprayed out of hundreds of nozzles and
layered on top of one another.  The nozzles moved in sequence.  We saw this
in the factory and were amazed.  They move so quickly that it appears that
they are moving in a steady stream straight down.  But the turned on a
strobe (sp) light and  we saw that the nozzles were moving in a beautiful
sequenced motion.  This was way too cool and everyone loved it.  The fibers
grip on to one another, then forms the textile.

Those who recycle can appreciate this... Tyvek is made from recycled plastic
milk containers.  When you recycle your milk containers they go to DuPont!
They have recycled enough milk containers to circle the world.

Some other characteristics of Tyvek:
***Does not dye well, but will accept ink for printing exceptionally well.
It holds some of the highest definition inks in the world.  My husband
proved this to me, when he pulled out a wadded up map made of Tyvek that he
got at the State Fair five years ago.  He said, "I have had it wadded up in
this drawer for five years and look at the print and fabric.  It is in
perfect condition."
***It doesn't burn but will melt.
***The textile doesn't breathe.  This makes the wearer very hot.
***For wearing... it can only be laundered about 6 times.  Then the textile
starts to break down.  My GYN doctor has dressing gowns for the patients
made of Tyvek.

As for the factory itself... it is 40 years old, but has some state of the
art things.  The supervisors ride around in huba-crafts (sp).  They are
magnetically charged and float around about an inch off of the floor.... so
Star War-ish! The rider stands up in them kinda like a jet ski and zips
around the factory.  This was so cool!!!!

The other state of the art thing were robots that moved things around in the
factory.  These were free standing and mobile robots, that would move things
from one side of the factory to the other side, moving gigantic bolts of
textiles. The robots were about four foot high and were real... kinda like
R2D2.  We were warned if one comes our way to move out of its way.  It does
not know to move around you.   WOW!!!!  The teenagers and adults were so
excited!!!  So space age!

Well, I will let you all know what happens at our next two sessions.  We do
not go back to the plant until Mar. 18th.  I hope it is the factory where we
see how they make bullet proof vests.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] I'm a costumer, not a webmaster
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 01:19:14 -0500
Status: RO

One wonderful avenue of learning about internet laws is through The Internet
Library Case Update Newsletter.  They send you a profiled lawsuit case every
week via email about the internet.  I have learned a LOT from this.  I
encourage anyone doing business on the internet to get this newsletter.
This week's newsletter was really interesting about a photographer who sued
a search engine for copyright violation.  This was a two sided coin.  Below
is how to subscribe and read past newsletters.  If interested in this week's
letter, I suggest you read ALL of it.  It packs a punch in the end.

Last week's newsletter was about a former Playmate of the Year's website
being sued by Playboy magazine for trademark infringement.

Directions: (copied from the newsletter)
If you found this Internet Library Case Update of interest, and are not
already a subscriber to my free service, notify me at
http://www.phillipsnizer.com/form.htm, and I will provide you with future
case updates.  Additional case summaries can be found on the Internet
Library at http://www.phillipsnizer.com/internetlib.htm.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 00:21:46 -0600
Status: RO

Hi, all!

Group:  St. Louis Costumers' Guild, chapter of International Costumers' Guild
Period:  All

We do 99.9% fantasy and SF costuming, but many of them have started from 
historical patterns.  So far we've modified (among others) Victorian, late 
17th/early 18th Cent (panniers), houppelandes, medieval tunics, Roman, and 
an Elizabethan is in the future plans.  We have somehow fallen into 
specializing in religious-themed costumes and re-creations of artwork and 
book covers.  We've learned a lot from all the discussions on this list, 
since we don't do (at least not yet) purely historical costumes - it points 
us to things we may not have thought of when considering a particular style.

This list is the greatest!

Pierre and Sandy

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed To Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly--
Why They Are Simply Doomed."

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
-- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting french hood theory...
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 23:00:24 -0800
Status: RO

At 1:38 PM -0800 3/3/02, Sarah Lorriane wrote:
>I stumbled across an ancient message from 1994 on Stephen's Florigilium on
>the topic of a unique method of constructing a french hood, described by
>Susanna Richardson.  Roughly, it consisted of a single piece of fabric with
>a turned back "brim" that was shaped into the coronet structure (this is at
>least what I was getting from her discription).  This totally goes against
>99% of what the rest of the costuming world has been doing with french
>hoods, but her reasoning sounded pretty compelling... It had to do with the
>evolution from the black lappets of the hennin being retained and gradually
>morphing into the structure we consider the french hood.  Does anyone know
>anything else about this method, or if Susanna is reachable for further
>clarification?  I'm totally intregued by her idea!

Although a french hood doesn't _have_ to have a "coronet" at all. The 
1570's ones my Renaissance guild wears are just a flat, basically 
crescent-shaped underlayer that is heavily stiffened and wired, then 
bent into shape around the face and covered with fabric. When it's 
exactly the right shape, the front points just touch the cheekbones, 
the width at the bottom just covers the earlobes, and the whole thing 
slopes just a little upward from the forehead to the back of the 
hood. (I can't describe the angle properly because I'm still waiting 
to get one fitted.) The whole thing is only about two or two and a 
half inches from front to back.

Unfortunately it's practically impossible to create a "pattern" for 
one because everyone's head shape and face are different. The one our 
costume director wears, for instance, is a couple of inches too long 
for me and tilts up too much in the back. (She says the "radar dish" 
look is Right Out!)

What she recommends is studying portraits, then experimenting with 
cutting pieces of stiff paper into various shapes until you find 
something that looks right and is flattering to your face. I've 
noticed that Mary Tudor wears hoods like this in her portraits that 
are practically flat on top of her head, for instance.

I don't know too much about the theory, but I'll ask. I have this 
vague feeling that earlier hoods like the gable or English hood do 
involve pinning up lappets of a previous style, but I don't know 
what's evolving from what.
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Mar  5 01:26:04 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 02:06:56 -0500
Status: RO

Karen,

You get to meet Susan and I in June for the Costume Society of America
meeting.  I think Ann Wass is going to be there too!  Anyone else going to
Chicago in June for CSA?

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


----- Original Message -----
From: <seamstrix@juno.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 8:09 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume


> I was infected by the costuming bug at the tender age of 14 when I joined
> a Rev War group thru the auspices of a Senior Girl Scout troop. I was
> already predisposed to a costuming obsession due to an unhealthy interest
> in playing dress up as a child. I went on to participate in the SCA (and
> still do when other activities permit), and then I got assimilated by the
> RenFaire and have been concentrating on later 16th century ever since. In
> the SCA my persona is technically an Anglo-Saxon, but I've always loved
> the cotehardie styles and would like to get more proficient at them. I'm
> also getting into Victorian these days and would love a good excuse to
> make Cavalier.....and I've done a bit of Regency.
>
> I've been on h-costume since summer of '97, and I've enjoyed both the
> discussions we've had on the board, and meeting folks from the list in
> person (Hi Teddy, Mel, Danielle, Melanie, Drea, Deb, and everyone else
> I've had the pleasure of meeting). This list is a constant source of
> inspiration!
>
>
> Karen
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting french hood theory...
From: Sarah Lorriane <lithiate@earthlink.net>
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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 23:24:33 -0800
Status: RO

on 3/4/02 11:00 PM, Chris Laning at claning@igc.org wrote:

> 
> Although a french hood doesn't _have_ to have a "coronet" at all. The
> 1570's ones my Renaissance guild wears are just a flat, basically
> crescent-shaped underlayer that is heavily stiffened and wired, then
> bent into shape around the face and covered with fabric. When it's
> exactly the right shape, the front points just touch the cheekbones,
> the width at the bottom just covers the earlobes, and the whole thing
> slopes just a little upward from the forehead to the back of the
> hood. (I can't describe the angle properly because I'm still waiting
> to get one fitted.) The whole thing is only about two or two and a
> half inches from front to back.

Right.  This is the way I was taught to do it, too.  The "coronet" is
essentially the curved piece that projects out at an angle from the head
(what you just described).  The term was something I picked up from Norris a
while ago, and I've noticed that other costumers also refer to it as a
"coronet".  It could be possible, however, that this is a confused term.

What makes this other method of making the hood so interesting is that it
suggests that the "coronet" piece wasn't a seperate article, as described in
your email, but an integral part of the entire "hood" that has been flipped
back against the crown of the head and embellished with a contrasting fabric
and jewels (the billiments).  It's actually a really darn good theory when
one tracks the evolution of the french hood, and it does aproximate the look
of the earlier french hood styles really nicely.  However... I just need one
good picture of someone wearing a french hood made in this manner to
convince me that it's actually workable.  Not that I don't believe you
guys... I just want picture proof. ;)

Sarah Lorraine

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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 07:48:53 -0000
Status: RO

On 4 Mar 2002 at 23:15, Robin Netherton wrote:

> 
> On Mon, 4 Mar 2002, Jane Williams wrote:
> 
> > Well, the one I'm interested in at present is a collection of C14
> > headdresses, on page 149
> > 
> > http://www.williams.nildram.co.uk/crafts/c14headdresses_sm.jpg
> 
> This image was new to me. I'm intrigued by some of the expressions on the
> ladies' faces, and wonder if they're faithful to the original! 

It did make me wonder what was happening in the scene they were watching!

> The clothing and headdresses in the top and bottom rows are mostly within
> the realm of possibility, if you ignore the waistline seams

OK: I'm after headdresses in any case.

> but you can find many examples from this period in other, more
> reliable books, such as Margaret Scott's "Visual History of Costume: The
> 14th and 15th Centuries," or Millia Davenport's "Book of Costume."

Amazon is failing to find either of these :(
Bookfinder isn't coming up with the Scott, but has found the Davenport. Prices from 
 16.90 (in Canada: add postage) up to silly money. Is this a "must have", in the opinion 
of the list?

Are there "how to" web sites I should be looking at for my head-dresses?



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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 19:10:07 -0800
Status: RO



Sarah Lorriane wrote:

> I stumbled across an ancient message from 1994 on Stephen's Florigilium on
> the topic of a unique method of constructing a french hood, described by
> Susanna Richardson.  Roughly, it consisted of a single piece of fabric with
> a turned back "brim" that was shaped into the coronet structure (this is at
> least what I was getting from her discription).  This totally goes against
> 99% of what the rest of the costuming world has been doing with french
> hoods, but her reasoning sounded pretty compelling... It had to do with the
> evolution from the black lappets of the hennin being retained and gradually
> morphing into the structure we consider the french hood.  Does anyone know
> anything else about this method, or if Susanna is reachable for further
> clarification?  I'm totally intregued by her idea!
>
>

I can see an argument for this, as some of the hoods worn around 1500 in France

and Flanders had soft turn-backs. However, some of them also had strange
understructures that may also have evolved into a stiff brim. Needs more
looking
into. I think though, that even if the French hood evolved this way it was not
made
this way when say Anne Boleyn wore it. It seems quite clearly to have separate
components then.

Claire


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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] I'm a costumer, not a webmaster
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 08:37:21 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Hi

Regarding th copyright and fair use of material it is worth bearing in mind that the law on this
matter is very different in different countries.  In the UK as I understand it we are not allowed
to use images, text (unless quoted) etc etc etc without the express permission of the owner.  So
it is worth knowing that if you use a graphic of an image (whether it is in a book or on the web)
from a UK museum or gallery without their permission you could be prosecuted for copyright
infingement.  I know the NPG operates this policy but it is not too expensive to get the graphics
licenced.  They may not ask you to pay anything if you are using their images for educational
rather than commercial purposes.

Make any sense?

Rachel

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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 00:47:39 -0800
Status: RO


>Welcome to the dark world of costuming websites... :)

Doesn't look all that dark to me.  I just looked at the web-sites of people 
on this list (most of us don't seem to have them), and I noticed lots of 
colour, photo-graphics, patterned backgrounds, animation, etc.  My concept 
is much simpler than the ones I saw, so I hope it doesn't look too 
amateurish by comparison.

>Again, it's all up to how "selfish" you feel about your work.  The way I
>look at it, the images on my website are free to whoever wants to look at
>them and that opens me wide up for issues like the ones I've just described.
>But, I knew that going into it, so it's not a major shock for me.  Just know
>what you're up against before putting anything on the site that might be A)
>Offensive in some way (even the most benign stuff is bound to rub someone
>the wrong way, and they're going to tell you about it) and B) So cool that
>someone will be tempted to snatch the content and use it for their own
>devious purposes.

Some stuff I just own, I didn't make.  Images of those things will be up 
there for all to see, and, presumably, download for non-commercial 
use.  Other stuff I will have put long hours into, like class notes and 
mini-classes, and it would be nice if I got something back for my 
time.  How do I work that?  Hide the location, post a teaser, and say if 
they send a check I'll tell them where to look for the rest of it?  Do it 
on the honour system, like the share-ware people do?

>Number one thing that I think is absolutely crucial in a good costume site:
>Pictures.  Lots and lots of pictures of original work with good detailed
>shots from different angles, worn by living models and plenty of discussion
>on technique.

That was my plan.  I have lots of historical pieces that never see the 
light of day, so I want a place to show them to people who will care about 
them (antique handmade lace to show Leif, weird costumes to show Teddy, 
antique doll clothes to show Elizabeth, etc.)  And most of the people on 
this list have seen none of my work, for all the talk I do, so I want a 
place to brag and show off.

BTW, what's a 'costume ring'?

>Have fun and drop us a link!
>
>Sarah Lorraine
>http://homepage.mac.com/lithiate


Kayta
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 01:21:13 -0800
Status: RO


>Regarding th copyright and fair use of material it is worth bearing in 
>mind that the law on this
>matter is very different in different countries.  In the UK as I 
>understand it we are not allowed
>to use images, text (unless quoted) etc etc etc without the express 
>permission of the owner.  So
>it is worth knowing that if you use a graphic of an image (whether it is 
>in a book or on the web)
>from a UK museum or gallery without their permission you could be 
>prosecuted for copyright
>infingement.  I know the NPG operates this policy but it is not too 
>expensive to get the graphics
>licenced.  They may not ask you to pay anything if you are using their 
>images for educational
>rather than commercial purposes.
>
>Make any sense?

Yes it does, but those aren't the kinds of images I want to use.  I have an 
early 1900's woman's magazine with an illustrated article on what 'stout' 
women should be wearing.  I have an 1894 Butterick knitting book, with 
directions for sweaters with two different kinds of leg-of-mutton 
sleeves.  I have a piece of cloth printed in 1925, it says, for 
embroidering then making up as a dress.  Some of the printed stuff I have 
is from companies which went out of business decades ago.   How does 
copyright work on things like these which had actual copyrights on them once?

Kayta
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting french hood theory...
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 09:34:49 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Well, I did play around with this last night and I learned a few
> things. First, this style of hood makes a dead-on replica of the
> earliest french hood style that was somewhere between henin lappet and
> french hood (the portrait of Catherine of Aragon as a young woman is a
> good example).  The other thing I learned is that it doesn't give
> enough of a "coronet" effect.  I wired the edge and it didn't help
> much.  Those of you who have made this work, how did you get the
> turned back edge to "stand up", if you will, to give the appropriate
> coronet, as with the later style of hood (1540's)?  Is there still a
> seperate structure that the hood part attaches to via the billiments
> or am I just going about this all wrong?  

Hi Sarah,

Have you tried putting your hair in two plaits that wind around each 
other across the top of your head towards the back - with that 
under the hood, the back of the turn-back part sould sit up on it at 
about the right angle.

Teddy

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Henry Shaw and other books
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 09:59:09 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> > but you can find many examples from this period in other, more
> > reliable books, such as Margaret Scott's "Visual History of Costume:
> > The 14th and 15th Centuries," or Millia Davenport's "Book of
> > Costume."
> 
> Amazon is failing to find either of these :(
> Bookfinder isn't coming up with the Scott, but has found the
> Davenport. Prices from £16.90 (in Canada: add postage) up to silly
> money. Is this a "must have", in the opinion of the list?
> 
> Are there "how to" web sites I should be looking at for my
> head-dresses?

Jane,

How about seeing if your local library has them - or requesting 
them on Inter-Library Loan if they don't - that way you can have a 
look at them first and decide if they cover what you wnat and if they 
are worth paying out the money for.

Teddy
(doing the Librarian thing)


Teddy

Bibliographical Services
Middlesex University
Bounds Green Road
London
N11 2NQ
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] I'm a costumer, not a webmaster
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 10:21:27 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Kayta

I would check with the publishers (if possible) to see if their copyright is still in force. 
There are a few guides on the net about UK copyright, and I presume other countries too.  The
length of time that a image remains in copyright varies, but I would imagine that 100 years would
probably be the limit.  Best to check though.

Regarding the material, if you take a photograph of it then you own the copyright on that image so
you are fine to put that on your site.

Rachel

 --- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote: > 
> Yes it does, but those aren't the kinds of images I want to use.  I have an 
> early 1900's woman's magazine with an illustrated article on what 'stout' 
> women should be wearing.  I have an 1894 Butterick knitting book, with 
> directions for sweaters with two different kinds of leg-of-mutton 
> sleeves.  I have a piece of cloth printed in 1925, it says, for 
> embroidering then making up as a dress.  Some of the printed stuff I have 
> is from companies which went out of business decades ago.   How does 
> copyright work on things like these which had actual copyrights on them once?
> 
> Kayta
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Oh, I am so excited after tonight big adventure touring one of three =
parts
of the DuPont plant here in Richmond, VA.  I wish all of you could have =
been
with us.  I learned so much.  There were 250 girl and boy scouts in our
group.  Very impressive that this many youngster wanted to learn about
textiles. =20

Penny, your trip sounds very interesting! Thanks for sharing that! And =
how cool of the factory to handle a group that size!

Dianne


Thought For The Day: There is a very fine line between "hobby" and =
"mental illness".

------=_NextPart_000_004D_01C1C412.C7C4BF60
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4134.600" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#d8d0c8>
<DIV>Oh, I am so excited after tonight big adventure touring one of =
three=20
parts<BR>of the DuPont plant here in Richmond, VA.&nbsp; I wish all of =
you could=20
have been<BR>with us.&nbsp; I learned so much.&nbsp; There were 250 girl =
and boy=20
scouts in our<BR>group.&nbsp; Very impressive that this many youngster =
wanted to=20
learn about<BR>textiles.&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Penny, your trip sounds very =
interesting! Thanks=20
for sharing that! And how cool of the factory to handle a group that=20
size!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Dianne</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thought For The Day: There is a very =
fine line=20
between "hobby" and "mental illness".</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 13:00:03 +0100
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Dianne & Greg Stucki wrote:

> Dianne  Thought For The Day: There is a very fine line between "hobby"
> and "mental illness".
>
> You can say that again, i agree wholehearted!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> Bjarne

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 04:49:22 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


The one thing I keep being struck by is how many people keep
saying "oh i'd love to do that period, but I have no place
to wear it."  

That makes me SO SAD I cannot express it!

If you want to do a period, and have no place to wear something,
why don't you start a group to do that with?  Your group doesn't even
have to be specific to that time period, it could be like a lot of the local
costumer's guilds and be for anyone interested in lots of periods, and
fantasy...

just get together 3-4 people in your area, start a local mailing list, 
at yahoo or topica.com, have a costumed picnic or a dress up day at a museum,
and take some business cards with you with the mailing list info... after 2 or
3 outings you'll probably have enough people who'vee asked about your group
and are interested that you can organize bigger events!

I'd recommend seeing the greater bay area costumer's guild page for some
great event ideas.  http://www.gbacg.org/

I don't know -- I know I'm lucky to live in an area where there's lots of
chances to do things, and plenty of events were it's ok to show up out of period
if you've just finished something you really love ;)  But seeing a hundred
or so responses with the same theme just made me sad!

.heather.meadows.


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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 09:50:04 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Tue, 5 Mar 2002, Jane Williams wrote:

> > but you can find many examples from this period in other, more
> > reliable books, such as Margaret Scott's "Visual History of Costume: The
> > 14th and 15th Centuries," or Millia Davenport's "Book of Costume."
> 
> Amazon is failing to find either of these :( Bookfinder isn't coming
> up with the Scott, but has found the Davenport. Prices from £16.90 (in
> Canada: add postage) up to silly money. Is this a "must have", in the
> opinion of the list?

Depends on how much research you intend to do. Davenport is a huge
compendium of images of dress from all periods, all from period artwork no
redrawings. But the images are all small and b/w. I use it as sort of an
"index" to other images I can find elsewhere. For the serious costumer who
needs a constant reference covering multiple periods, it's a must, but as
you said, is hard to find and expensive.

Scott's book focuses specifically on English costume of the 14th and 15th
centuries and is VERY useful if you intend to do a lot of work in this
period. She also uses only images from period artwork and sculpture, no
redrawings. You may find it in your local library, either under that
title, or bound into the compilation volume called "Visual History of
Dress" that includes several authors' works on different centuries. I'd
suggest you try library copies (ILL if needed) before you buy anything.

--Robin


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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 06:40:09 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Another list I am on has recently been discussing
copyright laws at some length.  It was stated quite
confidently (and repeatedly) on that list that, in the
US, anything written/drawn/whatever before 1923 (I'm
90% certain of that date) is no longer copyrighted. 
Beyond that things get a little more confusing,
because the law has been changed several times, and
there are a couple of different categories, but I
think a general rule is life of the artist plus 70
years.

--- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:
> How does 
> copyright work on things like these which had actual
> copyrights on them once?

If you draw/write/whatever something, it is
copyrighted, whether or not the copyright has ever
been registered.  Registering the copyright simply
allows you to prove that you thought of it first,
should someone else claim it is theirs.

Here is an informational site that can answer a few
more questions:

http://lcweb.loc.gov/copyright/faq.html

I'm not a lawyer either, but I hope this is at least a
little helpful!

-Angela

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Subject: [h-cost] 450 years of lace exhibition
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 14:47:25 -0000
Status: RO


Hi everyone,

I don't know whether this is common knowlege, but the Allhallows Lace museum
is hosting an exhibition covering 450 years of lace from 12 August to the 14
September 2002 in Honiton, Devon, England.

http://www.honitonlace.com/2002/index.htm

I found this via

http://www.honitonlace.com

which has a droolworthy selection of antique laces for sale, for non
lacemakers, and antique equipment etc for people who make lace.

best wishes
Stevie



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] copyright
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 10:19:34 -0500
Status: RO

We have actually discussed copyright law several times over the years in
great length on the list.  If anyone would like that information it is easy
to find in the archives.  The current date is 1927 and goes back 75 years.
But you also have to be careful of violating a trademark.  It a trademark
has been renewed, you can not use a company's name without permission.  If
you choose to use the trademark without permission it is called trademark
infringement. You can get in just as much trouble violating a trademark as
much as a copyright.  Read the article at the website I sent last night
about the Playboy VS the Playmate.  I think you will understand, it spells
it out very clearly.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "no place to wear it"
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 07:39:00 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

--- Heather Meadows <alice@wonderland.com> wrote:
> 
> The one thing I keep being struck by is how many people keep
> saying "oh i'd love to do that period, but I have no place
> to wear it."  

I have that problem too sometimes, but I have found a venue where
just about anything goes, although it may not suit some listmembers.
I will wear some of my period corsets/costumes to the local "goth"
dance club and to "fetish balls." There are a few local promoters
around here who have been doing special themed goth nights and fetish
balls (in an effort to energize the scene in this small sleepy town).
Sometimes I have a costume that coincides with the theme, sometimes I
just wear whatever I want, and it can be as over-the-top as I want.
One of these promoters wants to do a 1001 Arabian Nights theme this
summer, and I can't wait to show off some of my middle-eastern duds. 

However, I DO wish I had a better place to do 18th c. clothing. The
local "black powder" groups that I know of are funny about letting
"unattached" women into their group. 

mirv


=====
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Date: 5 Mar 2002 07:47:01 -0800
Status: RO

> If you want to do a period, and have no place to wear something,
> just get together 3-4 people in your area, start a local mailing list, 

Sounds easy enough but where do you find those 3-4 people? Might be possible in the States but I happen to live in Finland... and I used to live in Korea, where it would have been even more difficult. Actually, i moved back here just recently and haven´t really had the time to find out whether there are any events for the time period I´m interested in (basically anything from 1600 onward, but mostly 1750ish and early 20th cent.)I think not. Lucky you!

Riina


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From: Angela Kovatch <a_kovatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] copyright
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 07:55:04 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Hmmm, I still have to read these publications in more
detail, but I think I see where some confusion is
coming in.  Penny, you say

> The current date is 1927
> and goes back 75 years.

I believe that the rule had been that for works
created before Jan. 1, 1978, the total copyright term
was 75 years.  However, in 1998 the "Sonny Bono"
extension was enacted, adding 20 years onto every
copyright term.  This means that works created in 1923
would have expired in '98 (75 years), but works
created in 1924 now have 95 years before they expire,
which makes them good until 2019.

But, I have heard that the Supreme Court is
considering taking a closer look at the "Sonny Bono
act," which could result in it being repealed or
amended.

> But you also have to be careful of violating a
> trademark.  

Very good point here.  Here's the government's website
on trademarks, which I haven't looked at at all:

http://www.uspto.gov/web/offices/tac/tmlaw2.html

Still not a lawyer-
Angela

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Date: Tue,  5 Mar 2002 15:58:02 +0000
Status: RO

Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote :

> We have actually discussed copyright law several times over the years in
> great length on the list....The current date is 1927 and goes back 75 years.

I thought someone just said that this only applies to the USA?




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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 10:59:19 -0500
Status: RO




>From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
>
>experimenting with
>cutting pieces of stiff paper into various shapes until you find
>something that looks right and is flattering to your face.

One thing I learned when making my first kokoshnik (a Russian headress that 
-vaguely- resembles a French hood) is to use plain old manilla file folders 
for this.  They're nice and sturdy, and you can use the center crease to 
ensure that it comes out symmetric.

Parsla

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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 10:19:56 -0600
Status: RO


Hi Penny,


Just let me know where the meeting will be and/or where the hotel you
will be staying is and I will play friendly native guide and figure out a
good place to meet and maybe have dinner or some such. I'm looking
forward to meeting more cyber-friends in the flesh. (And don't forget
that cemetery tour I promised you.....<EG>)

Shameless Commercial Plug: And for everyone who is looking for a place to
wear that costume they are dying to make, CostumeCon 21 will be Easter
weekend 2003 here in beautiful, exotic (and kinda chilly right now)
Chicago. This is for ALL types of costuming, all periods, all inspiration
sources. Everyone is welcome!!!

Karen
Programming Chair- CC21




On Tue, 5 Mar 2002 02:06:56 -0500 "Penny Ladnier"
<penny@costumegallery.com> writes:
> Karen,
> 
> You get to meet Susan and I in June for the Costume Society of 
> America meeting.  I think Ann Wass is going to be there too!  Anyone
else 
> going to Chicago in June for CSA?
> 
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] copyright
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 11:29:30 -0500
Status: RO

Jane,

Thank you for pointing that out.  Different countries have different
copyright laws.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


----- Original Message -----
From: "Jane Williams" <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: "Jane Williams" <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 10:58 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] copyright


> Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote :
>
> > We have actually discussed copyright law several times over the years in
> > great length on the list....The current date is 1927 and goes back 75
years.
>
> I thought someone just said that this only applies to the USA?
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 08:33:53 -0800
Status: RO


> Another list I am on has recently been discussing
> copyright laws at some length.  It was stated quite
> confidently (and repeatedly) on that list that, in the
> US, anything written/drawn/whatever before 1923 (I'm
> 90% certain of that date) is no longer copyrighted. 

Even with that you have to be careful, as the work in which the 
period piece appears may be copyrighted. (To paraphrase from the 
copyright class I took recently.)

> Beyond that things get a little more confusing,
> because the law has been changed several times, and
> there are a couple of different categories, but I
> think a general rule is life of the artist plus 70
> years.

This is confusing, especially because it is currently changing so 
rapidly. There are statutes being struck down and raised, as well 
as court cases (such as the Corell one) which are changing a lot of 
things, especially for the Internet.

> Here is an informational site that can answer a few
> more questions:
> 
> http://lcweb.loc.gov/copyright/faq.html

There is also:

http://www.copyright.com 

This is a site which was created at the request of Congress to help 
people comply with copyright law.

http://www.libraries.psu.edu/avs/fairuse/default.html

This site has information directly from CONFU, the Conference on 
Fair Use, discussing internet uses.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 08:33:52 -0800
Status: RO


> If you want to do a period, and have no place to wear something,
> why don't you start a group to do that with?

Because that takes so much time and effort (especially at the 
grass root stage when you don't even have 3-4 people to start with) 
that most of us do not have the wherewithal to do so. While I might 
have time to make a dress and wear it at an event, if I had to do 
such organizing, I wouldn't have time for either.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Mar  5 11:05:19 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] copyright
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 11:45:37 -0500
Status: RO

Angela,

Drea has actually spoke with a lawyer about copyright issues.  She's not on
the list at the moment, but my understanding from chatting with her,
copyright expiration dates are different for various types of
publications... depending on what copyright law was in affect at the time.
Recent copyright laws pertain to things that are published that are
published in current time.

There is an excellent webpage that covers copyright law timeline,
http://arl.cni.org/info/frn/copy/timeline.html
This webpage's master site is the Association of Research Libraries (Wash
DC) is http://arl.cni.org/info/frn/copy/copytoc.html  Lots of current
information on copyrights.

Enough said, back to work.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 11:49:10 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Good thought, Heather!
In our area (greater Washington, DC area) we've got groups doing stuff
that can be tied to the locale, like Revolutionary War, War of 1812, et
cetera, but we've also got groups (all of the ones I'm involved in, come
to think of it) that have no historical ties to the area whatsoever -- the
group doing Thirty Years War (Germany), or 1745 Scotland, for instance.
Someone decided they wanted to start a group, and just _did_ it!  The
Scottish group mostly goes to local Celtic and Scottish festivals as part
of a Living History display.  The Thirty Years War groups participate in
"Military Timeline" events, where a local park will put together a
"timeline" display of groups doing military impressions, ranging from,
say, a unit of Roman Legionnaires, to Vikings, to World War II reenactors.

The reason these events are military timeline events is because most of
the folks who started them did so out of interest in the military
history, but the displays are beginning to diversify and show civilian
activities (like taverns, market displays, dyeing/spinning demos).
I'm not sure how you'd go about establishing a purely civilian timeline
event, since most reenactment groups do focus on military history.

Anyway, if you have a couple of reenacting groups in your area, you might
see if you can interest them, and a local park, in doing a 'timeline' event.
I think the parks that host these events use them as a way to get visitors
into the site.

-- Mara


On Tue, 5 Mar 2002, Heather Meadows wrote:

>
> The one thing I keep being struck by is how many people keep
> saying "oh i'd love to do that period, but I have no place
> to wear it."
>
> That makes me SO SAD I cannot express it!
>
> If you want to do a period, and have no place to wear something,
> why don't you start a group to do that with?  Your group doesn't even
> have to be specific to that time period, it could be like a lot of the local
> costumer's guilds and be for anyone interested in lots of periods, and
> fantasy...

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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 21:52:03 -0800
Status: RO

At 8:55 PM -0800 3/4/02, Sarah Lorriane wrote:

>Now, speaking as a website owner, I don't have a problem if someone links to
>my site without asking permission or giving a heads-up.  That's just my
>personal feeling about it... As long as no one is plagerizing, I'm cool with
>it (a quick search on google lets me keep tabs on who is using my site for
>what reason).  I haven't been completely ripped off at this point in time,
>but I'm sure there's a good possibility of it happening.  However, I don't
>let it keep me up at night worrying about it.

 From practical experience (both mine and other people's), I can think 
of one reason for appreciating being asked before being linked to. 
If someone links to your site in a manner that brings you a heavy 
traffic of questions or requests that are enough out of your line of 
interest that they would be much more work than fun to answer, it can 
be a problem.  (Either you try to answer the questions anyway and get 
annoyed, or you ignore them or brush them off, and then the 
questioners -- who might otherwise have gone to a website of someone 
who _was_ interested in their questions -- get annoyed.)

I get a little taste of this with my historic name articles on the 
web (although I don't have a site of my own).  Just today I traced 
down _one_ of the sources of some of my odd requests: someone told me 
that Ask Jeeves told her to ask me her "what does my Gaelic name 
mean" question.  (I also get a lot of, "Can you trace my genealogy?" 
questions because people who run genealogy sites have linked to my 
articles.)  Friends of mine who run medieval history sites have 
occasionally discovered that their sites have been linked to "people 
you can ask to do the research for your term paper that's due 
tomorrow" sites.

So it can be of practical use to be given a chance to ok links, as 
long as you're willing occasionally to be the bad guy and say, 
"Sorry, but I think my material is enough off topic for your likely 
clientele that the link won't be useful to either party."

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 02:03:23 +0800
Status: RO

Heather Rose Jones writes:
> 
>  From practical experience (both mine and other people's), I can think 
> of one reason for appreciating being asked before being linked to. 
> If someone links to your site in a manner that brings you a heavy 
> traffic of questions or requests that are enough out of your line of 
> interest that they would be much more work than fun to answer, it can 
> be a problem.  (Either you try to answer the questions anyway and get 
> annoyed, or you ignore them or brush them off, and then the 
> questioners -- who might otherwise have gone to a website of someone 
> who _was_ interested in their questions -- get annoyed.)

Good point.  I've dealt with this on an infrequent basis, but most of my mail is made up of kids looking for research material, or asking me to basically write the paper for them... 

> 
> I get a little taste of this with my historic name articles on the 
> web (although I don't have a site of my own).  Just today I traced 
> down _one_ of the sources of some of my odd requests: someone told me 
> that Ask Jeeves told her to ask me her "what does my Gaelic name 
> mean" question.  (I also get a lot of, "Can you trace my genealogy?" 
> questions because people who run genealogy sites have linked to my 
> articles.)  Friends of mine who run medieval history sites have 
> occasionally discovered that their sites have been linked to "people 
> you can ask to do the research for your term paper that's due 
> tomorrow" sites.

LOL.  Yeah, my site must be on that list... Much of this problem was cleared up, however, when I posted a lengthly diatribe on my "About Me" page stating precisely what the site was there for and what I would and wouldn't do for the reader.  I haven't been getting as much of the "research" email since I published the site, but I did get one interesting email last week from a professional costumer who took an awful lot of offense at my "condesending" tone of that particular page (she stopped short of calling me a "garb nazi", but leveled just about every other insult she could).  I can sincerely see how that page might be taken the wrong way... I'm pretty brutally honest about what I do and what people can expect from the site and from me, and I suppose if you're in the wrong frame of mind it might come across as being something other than honest.  Honestly, though, it was born out of sheer frustration with people who would email me and either beg me to make them a costume (f!
lattering, really, but not what I do), offer to buy my costumes (again, flattering, but sorry they're not for sale) or harass me for information on "clothes from the midevill (sic) time" for their school reports.  

Sarah Lorraine
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] copyright
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 10:16:31 -0800
Status: RO

The following website gives concise information on when US copyrighted
works fall  into the public domain:

http://www.unc.edu/~unclng/public-d.htm

Some comments on the various messages on this topic:

The only way to find out whether registration for a work has been
renewed is to do a search in the Copyright Office, have a professional
search firm do it, or contact the creator of the work (or publisher,
or someone with definite legal information) and ask them.

You need to respect the copyright law of the country in which the work
was copyrighted.  According to my lawyer, if a work was copyrighted in
two countries--say Great Britain and the US--you need to go by the
longer copyright period of the two.

Any additions or changes to a modern reprint of a public-domain work
or works are copyrighted.  This includes anthologies, editing of the
original text or illustrations, addition of new materials,
translations, etc.  All our books are registered under modern
copyright law.

According to my lawyer, if a work is now clearly in the public domain,
new legislation can't take it out of the public domain again.  Changes
extending the term of copyright were done before the copyrights of the
works in question actually expired.  Also, I believe that the term of
modern copyright for a specific work can't be shortened by new
legislation--that would apply to works created later.  Generally,
legislation  has been extending copyright protection rather than
otherwise.

Although copyright laws periodically change and sometimes seem
difficult for some laypersons to understand, they are laws and it is
necessary to abide by them.  (That is, it's not legal to throw  up
your hands and say, "It's all too confusing and might change anyway,
so I'll just go ahead and use any material I find however I want.")

Fran Grimble


Angela Kovatch wrote:

> Hmmm, I still have to read these publications in more
> detail, but I think I see where some confusion is
> coming in.  Penny, you say
>
> > The current date is 1927
> > and goes back 75 years.
>
> I believe that the rule had been that for works
> created before Jan. 1, 1978, the total copyright term
> was 75 years.  However, in 1998 the "Sonny Bono"
> extension was enacted, adding 20 years onto every
> copyright term.  This means that works created in 1923
> would have expired in '98 (75 years), but works
> created in 1924 now have 95 years before they expire,
> which makes them good until 2019.
>
> But, I have heard that the Supreme Court is
> considering taking a closer look at the "Sonny Bono
> act," which could result in it being repealed or
> amended.
>

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance


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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 10:22:24 -0800
Status: RO


>the work in which the
>period piece appears may be copyrighted.

That's my situation.  The old magazine is the thing with the date on 
it.  Since the material in it was new when the magazine was new, I was 
going by the date on the magazine.  But my images of the old thing will be 
new, and my use will be for the benefit of researchers and not-for-profit, 
which should help my situation.  Another thing which will help me is that I 
plan to use my own artwork wherever possible.  I'm pretty sure I will own 
the rights to that.

Kayta
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 10:38:54 -0800
Status: RO


> > If you want to do a period, and have no place to wear something,
> > just get together 3-4 people in your area, start a local mailing list,
>
>Sounds easy enough but where do you find those 3-4 people? Might be 
>possible in the States but I happen to live in Finland... and I used to 
>live in Korea, where it would have been even more difficult.

Speaking as a former co-president of the South Bay Costumer's Guild, now 
defunct, it's not that easy even if you live in an area well populated by 
other costumers.  You have to be good at running clubs, good at publicity, 
good at keeping the internal politics manageable, have plenty of 
time/money, and not politically offend anyone in the next-nearest 
chapter.  (While our next-nearest chapter supported us in every way they 
could, a few vocal members of it saw us only as competition, not as more 
places to play.)  And you have to plan and run events people want to 
attend.  All of the above circumstances conspired against us, and we are no 
more.

Kayta
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From: Angela Kovatch <a_kovatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sueded silk again
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 11:12:54 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Robin wrote:
> If so, it would be
> essentially equivalent to the effect of fulling on
> wool -- as the fibers
> stop lying flat and start to fluff up, the fabric
> becomes thicker, and
> loses some length and width.

I have to admit I'm still a little dubious about this
idea.  In my mind, one of the "essential" qualities of
fulled wool is that the fibers have locked together to
some degree.  I understand that this means it can be
used (and was, at least some in history) as a method
of finishing seams or edges of fabric. 

Think of the difference between a braid of fine blond
(human) hair, with the ends of individual hairs
sticking out along the braid, and a nice neat
dreadlock of African hair (well, okay, that might be
analogous to felt, but I think you can make dreadlocks
by starting out with braids, which is analogous to
fulling).  They're both kinda fuzzy, but the braid can
be picked out again.  And the difference between the
scaliness of wool fibers and the smoothness of silk
fibers is even greater.

Perhaps the shrinkage might, to some degree, mimic
this effect of making the fabric less prone to
fraying, as it would produce, in effect, a more
tightly-woven cloth.

Anyway, really interesting stuff about the difference
between spun and reeled silk.

-Angela


--- Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
> Changing topics to my bizarre experience with a
> herringbone "raw" silk
> that "fulled," Gail quotes her friend again:
> 
> > First: The "felted" silk. My friend says that the
> commercial silk
> > industry does all kinds of things to fabrics to
> prepare them for
> > market, and that you probably washed out the
> sizing and perhaps other
> > chemicals that controlled the fibers, allowing
> them to do what they
> > want. Spun silk is made up of "short" fibers,
> which she says are
> > longer than wool fibers but still relatively
> short, all spun together.
> > The ends of the silk fibers stick out just like
> they do in spun wool,
> > and depending on the quality of the silk that's
> spun to begin with,
> > they will behave different ways when allowed to.
> Sizing, heat rolling,
> > and other commercial treatments make the spun silk
> stay flat like
> > reeled silk, which is silk fibers reeled straight
> from the cuccoon in
> > immense lengths (up to 1/2 mile long!).
> 
> There's no doubt that this piece was indeed a spun
> silk, and that's
> probably a fair explanation for the surface texture
> change. I wonder if
> this would explain the tremendous shrinkage I got,
> too. If so, it would be
> essentially equivalent to the effect of fulling on
> wool -- as the fibers
> stop lying flat and start to fluff up, the fabric
> becomes thicker, and
> loses some length and width.
> 
> --Robin
> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 19:03:50 -0000
Status: RO

Hi everyone,

I'm not a member of the SCA or any similar groups; I am a researcher at the
Shakespeare Institute, Stratford upon Avon, and my research interests lie in
costume matters primarily in Tudor and early Stuart, though I stray outside
those time periods with great pleasure...

I have learned, and intend to continue learning, a great deal from the huge
range of ideas and information which comes up on h-cost, not least because
costume history is completely ignored by a very large proportion of those
who study Shakespeare and his collaborators and rivals. On Sunday, for
example, I was at a research seminar at the Globe, and noted in the context
of a potential anochronism references to codpieces in a play usually dated
around 1597. I was assailed on all sides by people convinced, apparently on
the basis of a hazy recollection of  Henry VIII's "Champion the Wonder
Horse" armour, that massive codpieces were de rigeur for all men in England
well into the reign of Charles II. And then there was the question of what
actually went into a codpiece...

best wishes to all h-costians, whatever our backgrounds,
Stevie


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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting french hood theory...
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 19:24:32 +0000
Status: RO

Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> wrote
>At 1:38 PM -0800 3/3/02, Sarah Lorriane wrote:
>>I stumbled across an ancient message from 1994 on Stephen's Florigilium on
>>the topic of a unique method of constructing a french hood, described by
>>Susanna Richardson.  Roughly, it consisted of a single piece of fabric with
>>a turned back "brim" that was shaped into the coronet structure (this is at
>>least what I was getting from her discription).  This totally goes against
>>99% of what the rest of the costuming world has been doing with french
>>hoods, but her reasoning sounded pretty compelling... It had to do with the
>>evolution from the black lappets of the hennin being retained and gradually
>>morphing into the structure we consider the french hood.  Does anyone know
>>anything else about this method, or if Susanna is reachable for further
>>clarification?  I'm totally intregued by her idea!
>
>
>I don't know too much about the theory, but I'll ask. I have this vague 
>feeling that earlier hoods like the gable or English hood do involve 
>pinning up lappets of a previous style, but I don't know what's 
>evolving from what.

There are some pictures that definitely seem as if the English hood 
develops from the hennin with lappets (I'm sorry, I can't reference the 
pictures, but you could start from the Visual History books - they're 
usually my first source).  I think maybe the French wore much more 
floaty linen with their hennins, but there's a very dark, sober English 
look with the V-necked gown and quite a small "flowerpot" with a very 
deep piece of velvet hung over it.  The flowerpot gets shorter and the 
lappets become more pronounced, and sometimes angled at the front to 
give that gable look. The pictures that really persuaded me were ones of 
young girls, who sometimes wear just the lappets with their hair loose 
behind.  In addition to one with the plain lappet, whose mother is 
wearing a flowerpot and V-neck gown, I found one (in the Museum of 
London, IIRC) of a girl wearing the front of an English hood, the 
lappets with the angles, with her hair loose behind in just the same 
way.

Jean

-- 
Jean Waddie
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 11:32:55 -0800
Status: RO



Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> >the work in which the
> >period piece appears may be copyrighted.
>
> That's my situation.  The old magazine is the thing with the date on
> it.  Since the material in it was new when the magazine was new, I was
> going by the date on the magazine.  But my images of the old thing will be
> new, and my use will be for the benefit of researchers and not-for-profit,
> which should help my situation.  Another thing which will help me is that I
> plan to use my own artwork wherever possible.  I'm pretty sure I will own
> the rights to that.
>

I don't have your original message any more . . . but as to "for the benefit of
researchers and not-for-profit."  Neither in itself  makes the use of
copyrighted material legal.  "Educational use" does not legally apply  to just
anyone wanting to learn something.  "Fair use" for educational purposes
actually seems to apply to formal classroom use and then only under certain
circumstances (such as, there was not enough time to have students buy the
text, only a certain quantity of the work may be used, etc.). "Not for
profit"--what is at issue is whether the market for a copyrighted work is
damaged by the use of it. Which can take place even if--or even because--the
person reusing the work does not charge for it.

Fran


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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 11:35:02 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO



> Whoops, this list has over 400 members.  Hold on to your
> mailboxes, people.

Eliz,
could you remind me how to unsub?  Thanks!


=====
--cin
Cynthia
hysteria95126@yahoo.com

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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 14:55:49 -0500
Status: RO




I've been stealing USPS envelopes from the mailroom at school for years for 
the Tyvek.... makes great stencils!

Parsla


>So I bet a lot of you are wondering what Tyvek is?  You all have it in your
>homes!  The little labels on your furniture that states that this label can
>not be removed under penalty of law.  You have tried to remove it by hand
>and it won't rip, then you have to cut it with scissors... that label's
>textile is Tyvek.  And strength is its #1 advantage!  This textile is also
>used for envelopes... the big soft white ones that are the dickens to open.
>Guess who they were manufacturing Tyvek for tonight?  UPS.  They are going
>to make envelopes out of the textile.  Remember how I said it is the 
>dickens
>to get into those Tyvek envelopes?

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting french hood theory...
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 04:52:12 +0800
Status: RO

Ironically, I actually put this same thing together this morning after someone on another list rather unintentionally mentioned the same theory about a version of the truncated hennin being the support for the french hood... Hehehehe.  I'm really excited about this new development.  I can't wait to see if it works... :)

Thanks to everyone for all the help!

Sarah

-----Original Message-----
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 19:24:32 +0000 
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting french hood theory...


> Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> wrote
> >At 1:38 PM -0800 3/3/02, Sarah Lorriane wrote:
> >>I stumbled across an ancient message from 1994 on Stephen's Florigilium on
> >>the topic of a unique method of constructing a french hood, described by
> >>Susanna Richardson.  Roughly, it consisted of a single piece of fabric with
> >>a turned back "brim" that was shaped into the coronet structure (this is at
> >>least what I was getting from her discription).  This totally goes against
> >>99% of what the rest of the costuming world has been doing with french
> >>hoods, but her reasoning sounded pretty compelling... It had to do with the
> >>evolution from the black lappets of the hennin being retained and gradually
> >>morphing into the structure we consider the french hood.  Does anyone know
> >>anything else about this method, or if Susanna is reachable for further
> >>clarification?  I'm totally intregued by her idea!
> >
> >
> >I don't know too much about the theory, but I'll ask. I have this vague 
> >feeling that earlier hoods like the gable or English hood do involve 
> >pinning up lappets of a previous style, but I don't know what's 
> >evolving from what.
> 
> There are some pictures that definitely seem as if the English hood 
> develops from the hennin with lappets (I'm sorry, I can't reference the 
> pictures, but you could start from the Visual History books - they're 
> usually my first source).  I think maybe the French wore much more 
> floaty linen with their hennins, but there's a very dark, sober English 
> look with the V-necked gown and quite a small "flowerpot" with a very 
> deep piece of velvet hung over it.  The flowerpot gets shorter and the 
> lappets become more pronounced, and sometimes angled at the front to 
> give that gable look. The pictures that really persuaded me were ones of 
> young girls, who sometimes wear just the lappets with their hair loose 
> behind.  In addition to one with the plain lappet, whose mother is 
> wearing a flowerpot and V-neck gown, I found one (in the Museum of 
> London, IIRC) of a girl wearing the front of an English hood, the 
> lappets with the angles, with her hair loose behind in just the same 
> way.
> 
> Jean
> 
> -- 
> Jean Waddie
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

-- 


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Subject: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 13:09:47 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I might have asked this question before...do any of you know of a
cheaper source of corset coutil? I have been ordering from Greenberg
and Hammer, but I am still looking for a better price.  

mirv


=====
Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
Check out my new EBay store: http://www.ebaystores.com/darkthreadsdesigns
My personal page: http://www.geocities.com/mirv_sewing/
My business Web site (under construction): http://www.darkthreads.com/
Adventure can be real happiness.--Fortune Cookie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] copyright
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 13:23:34 -0800
Status: RO


> But my images of the old thing
> will be new, and my use will be for the benefit of researchers and
> not-for-profit, which should help my situation. 

That may not be of help to you. You really should either contact a 
copyright lawyer (not just a regular lawyer. That's like asking a 
pediatrician about cardiac bypass. I'm a pediatrician and it's very 
apt). Either that or go to one of the sites that has been mentioned 
(especially ones regarding fair use doctrine).

I had always thought that I was pretty safe as long as I was not 
benefiting financially but it was for a not-for-profit organization, but 
that isn't always the case.

 Another thing which
> will help me is that I plan to use my own artwork wherever possible. 
> I'm pretty sure I will own the rights to that.

It depends on your artwork! 

I was very surprised when I took the copyright class to learn that if I 
did a line drawing based on an image still under copyright, that was 
considered copyright infringement. (The restriction is law is based 
on trademarks. Although I would never think of it as being a 
trademark, the applicable laws do consider it as such.) 

Another thing that I found interesting is that if I take an image or 
recipe or song for comparison to another image/recipe/song and do 
a detailed analysis of it, I'm not as likely to have violated copyright 
than if I had just put the image/recipe/song there. The comparison, 
evidently, is considered "critical review" or somesuch thing.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 13:23:34 -0800
Status: RO

F
> Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> wrote
> >At 1:38 PM -0800 3/3/02, Sarah Lorriane wrote:
> >>I stumbled across an ancient message from 1994 on Stephen's
> >>Florigilium on the topic of a unique method of constructing a french
> >>hood, described by Susanna Richardson.  Roughly, it consisted of a
> >>single piece of fabric with a turned back "brim" that was shaped
> >>into the coronet structure (this is at least what I was getting from
> >>her discription).  This totally goes against 99% of what the rest of
> >>the costuming world has been doing with french hoods, but her
> >>reasoning sounded pretty compelling... It had to do with the
> >>evolution from the black lappets of the hennin being retained and
> >>gradually morphing into the structure we consider the french hood. 
> >>Does anyone know anything else about this method, or if Susanna is
> >>reachable for further clarification?  I'm totally intregued by her
> >>idea!
> >
> >
> >I don't know too much about the theory, but I'll ask. I have this
> >vague feeling that earlier hoods like the gable or English hood do
> >involve pinning up lappets of a previous style, but I don't know
> >what's evolving from what.

Jean Waddie replied:
> There are some pictures that definitely seem as if the English hood
> develops from the hennin with lappets (I'm sorry, I can't reference
> the pictures, but you could start from the Visual History books -
> they're usually my first source).  I think maybe the French wore much
> more floaty linen with their hennins, but there's a very dark, sober
> English look with the V-necked gown and quite a small "flowerpot" with
> a very deep piece of velvet hung over it.  The flowerpot gets shorter
> and the lappets become more pronounced, and sometimes angled at the
> front to give that gable look. The pictures that really persuaded me
> were ones of young girls, who sometimes wear just the lappets with
> their hair loose behind.  In addition to one with the plain lappet,
> whose mother is wearing a flowerpot and V-neck gown, I found one (in
> the Museum of London, IIRC) of a girl wearing the front of an English
> hood, the lappets with the angles, with her hair loose behind in just
> the same way.

I've been doing quite a bit of research on the French Hood over the 
last several years. I do believe it started out as a variation on the 
various types of hoods (which you see all over Europe in various 
shapes at the end of the 15th Century) but then developed into 
other things. In France they seem to have developed into a hood 
either attached to the top of a paste (which is the period name for 
the horseshoe) or having the paste laid on top of the hood. The 
biliments (which is the period term, but also spelled habiliments, 
billiments, bylyments and all sorts of other spellings in the 
inventories) was what held the hood and the paste together. The 
paste is listed separately in the inventories of Henry VIII 
(sometimes in combination with the biliments both upper and 
lower, sometimes with just one or the other), so I don't think it is 
just an turned back part of the hood, which is often listed 
separately as well. 

Also, one might think by my "either attached to the top or laid on" 
that I'm not sure which it is. Actually, I'm sure based on what I have 
found that both were done. The "attached to the top" method 
seems to be more common in the Anne Boleyn through Kateryne 
Parr period in time (but in France they seemed to have used the 
same methods during the same time period), but the laid on top 
method more common both before and after that. (Perhaps in that 
15 to 20 year period they were experimenting with the other 
method. Whatever reason, it went both ways.)

The same original hood in England developed very differently and 
used the lappets far more: the pedimented hoods, which then 
evolved into the gable hoods. (Which I've also been researching, 
but haven't quite got things worked out to my satisfaction on how 
they are put together. Although Jean's method is one of the closest 
I've found for them. Thanks, Jean, for the information. I got even 
more pics of those headdress wires from the MOL when I was in 
England in 1999. They have far more in storage than the two on 
display, although they pulled the ones from the display for me to 
photograph more closely.)


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From: "Ulrika A. O'Brien" <uaobrien@uci.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 13:29:15 -0800
Status: RO

I can't vouch for them, because I just googled "coutil" to
see what came up, but there's a UK shop that seems to have
pretty good prices:

http://www.whaleys-bradford.ltd.uk/index.htm

I've only bought coutil from AlterYears, so I don't
have a sense of what Greenberg and Hammer charge.

A friend of mine found coutil very cheap in the shop at
the Los Angeles Fashion Institute, in an odd shade of
teal, so if you have some similar teaching institution
handy, it might be worth checking to see if they
sell off their end lots and such.


At 01:09 PM 3/5/2002, you wrote:
>I might have asked this question before...do any of you know of a
>cheaper source of corset coutil? I have been ordering from Greenberg
>and Hammer, but I am still looking for a better price.
>
>mirv
>
>
>=====
>Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
>Check out my new EBay store: http://www.ebaystores.com/darkthreadsdesigns
>My personal page: http://www.geocities.com/mirv_sewing/
>My business Web site (under construction): http://www.darkthreads.com/
>Adventure can be real happiness.--Fortune Cookie
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email!
>http://mail.yahoo.com/
>_______________________________________________
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  Ulrika O'Brien
  English & Comparative Literature
  University of California, Irvine
  435 Humanities Instructional Building
  (949) 824-6712


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting french hood theory...
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 14:12:01 -0800
Status: RO

While those discussing this thread may not agree with the
text of the following web page, it does provide a handy
reference for pictures of various stages of the French hood:

http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/headwear/frenchhood.html







  Ulrika O'Brien
  English & Comparative Literature
  University of California, Irvine
  435 Humanities Instructional Building
  (949) 824-6712


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From: "Linda J. Thompson" <LindaJThompson@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting french hood theory
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 16:13:48 -0600
Status: RO

Kat,
Do you have pictures up anyplace on your french hoods?  It would be 
fantastic to see them other than in a portrait.

Thanks
-- 
Linda Thompson
www.seams-to-be.com where Attitude is Everything

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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 14:41:00 -0800
Status: RO


> Kat,
> Do you have pictures up anyplace on your french hoods?  It would be
> fantastic to see them other than in a portrait.

Sorry, I don't have a website (and for copyright reasons would never 
put my article or documentation on the web). I've made several of 
them but I only show one (because the others have things that I 
don't like people to emulate, like embroidery on the paste, which I 
can't find *any* documentation for. Goldsmith work abounds, but 
not the embroidery type of goldwork.

A friend of mine keeps telling me that she will take pictures and put 
them on her website, but it never seems to get done. (And it's 
pretty hard to catch me holding still for a picture. There's a reason I 
was a runway model as a child, not a catalog model! I am anything 
but photogenic.) 


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Subject: Re: playing at different levels (was Re: [h-cost] Why are you on
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 17:42:54 -0500
Status: RO

>> just about every extreme, and then some:)
> 
> Everyone seems to have their own authenticity bug.  And people who are
> authentic in one field are usually not in some other field.  My costumes
> are such that I get called a 'costume Laurel' in the SCA, and I've been a
> historical judge at 3 different CostumeCons.  OTOH, at mealtimes I sneak
> off to my car, open a can of something, and stick the spoon right in it to
> eat, no heat, no preparation.  (An 'iced tea' spoon will reach all the way
> to the bottom of a can of soup and still stick out far enough to not get
> your fingers icky.)  I am in awe of real cooks.
> 
> Kayta
Many of my local friends are cooking laurels/apprentices who go to events
loaded w/enough food to feed everyone there. Oddly enough, they wonder how I
can go to an event with just my garb, coronet and a goblet. Why cook when
you don't have to?!
laurie

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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 14:56:14 -0800
Status: RO

Try 'hover-craft'.

>The supervisors ride around in huba-crafts (sp).  They are
>magnetically charged and float around about an inch off of the floor.... so
>Star War-ish!

I mostly know about Tyvek from construction, where sheets of it are used as 
water barriers inside walls.

Did they say how to clean Tyvek windbreakers?  Spot-cleaned with a sponge?

Kayta
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 15:31:37 -0800
Status: RO


>  Another thing which
> > will help me is that I plan to use my own artwork wherever possible.
> > I'm pretty sure I will own the rights to that.
>
>It depends on your artwork!
>
>I was very surprised when I took the copyright class to learn that if I
>did a line drawing based on an image still under copyright, that was
>considered copyright infringement.

Well, at least I got one thing right.  I was thinking of creating my own 
incidental graphics for the site, and putting up some of my original 
graphic work, none of which is based on copyrighted material.  In addition, 
I was thinking of doing a Janet Arnold/Nancy Bradfield on some of my 
antique garments, for when the photos need a little clarification.

All you other website owners must have had tons of fun checking everything 
on your own websites.  I'll start with nothing published after my mother 
was born (1924), I'll visit all those copyright sites you folks mentioned, 
and then we'll see what I actually get to use..


Kayta
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 16:07:48 -0800
Status: RO


>Many of my local friends are cooking laurels/apprentices who go to events
>loaded w/enough food to feed everyone there. Oddly enough, they wonder how I
>can go to an event with just my garb, coronet and a goblet. Why cook when
>you don't have to?!

I don't have a coronet, but I do have a plate, bowl, and spoon.  Other than 
that I couldn't agree with you more.  I do have a fairly authentic set of 
clothes for when it's my turn to work in the kitchen-like-place my old 
group at Ren. Faire had.  I volunteer to do my share washing dishes and 
carrying filled bowls out and empty ones back, and the real cook-types like 
that.

Cooking-costume content:  real cooks tell me that they wear wool aprons 
when cooking on campfires/open hearths, because wool deals best (=most 
safely) with flying sparks.


Kayta
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] copyright
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 19:40:40 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Tue, 5 Mar 2002, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> All you other website owners must have had tons of fun checking
> everything on your own websites.  I'll start with nothing published
> after my mother was born (1924), I'll visit all those copyright sites
> you folks mentioned, and then we'll see what I actually get to use..

My impression is that many website owners *don't* do such checking. I'm
rather disturbed to see just how many images of artworks, pattern
sketches, etc. are lifted from museum sites, in-copyright books, etc. and
reproduced on costume websites. Just because an image comes from a
centuries-old book or painting doesn't mean that the photograph of it is
not under copyright. (Though there was a very recent court decision, now
under appea; I think, that presented the possibility that reproductions of
out-of-copyright two-dimensional artwork are themselves not copyrightable.
The validity and application of this premise remains to be determined.) In
any case, it's easy enough to link to an existing museum site if you want
to show people an artwork that's already webbed.

Not long ago, a friend of mine found that costume drawings she had made
for a class handout (and posted on her own website) had been re-posted,
without her knowledge, to a yahoo group, to be used as a reference by
members of that group. She was not averse to sharing the information, but
she was disturbed that it was reprinted without the context of the rest of
the article, and improperly credited too. She pointed out to the reposter
that it would be more useful to simply refer people to her own website,
but I believe the reposter responded by simply correcting the credit line.
Giving credit does not relieve you of the need to get permission to repost
someone's work.

I note my copyright on all handouts I do for my lectures, not because I'm
trying to withhold material, but because I want to approve its use and
reproduction in controlled contexts. I provide my contact information and
ask explictly that the material not be reproduced without my permission.  
Many of my lectures are for SCA groups, and there is an strong culture of
information-sharing in the SCA. This in itself is admirable, but I have
found it also leads to a lot of Xeroxing and emailing and wholesale
distribution of materials in the name of "helping people," without an
understanding that copyright still applies even if you are not getting
money, even if you're in a nonprofit educational organization, and even if
your motives are pure.

Interestingly, I found much the same culture when I worked for a magazine
published by a branch of the U.S. government. Materials prepared by U.S.
government employees for U.S. government publications are free of
copyright and may be reproduced at will, but our magazine included
third-party photos and artwork for which we had to pay for permissions for
one-time use. Periodically we'd discover that another government
publication had seen something in our magazine ... and picked it up,
uncredited, for their own publications, under the assumption that if it
was in a government publication it was theirs to use. I thought of this
when a photographer friend of mine found that some of his copyrighted
photos of an SCA event had been picked up and reposted, uncredited, on an
SCA website -- the site owners apparently thought that all SCA photos were
fair game for use by all SCA branches. Gaak...

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] copyright
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 13:43:21 +1300
Status: RO

> Even with that you have to be careful, as the work in which the
> period piece appears may be copyrighted. (To paraphrase from the
> copyright class I took recently.)


A nice example of this, is the musical Phantom of the Opera. All the
characters costumes, sets etc are the property of the RUG, and even when
they end a show and dump items in the trash, they are able to charge people
collecting them: reselling or keeping as collectors items.

And the actual creation of the show is interesting, in this reagrds too. ALW
found an original printing of the book (1911) and was able to write the play
because that book was out of copyright. Never mind there were reprintings
that were within copyright.

That was 1985 in England and as discussed the laws are really confusing and
different over time and place. I just found it interesting in light of this
discussion.

Also, I found in some older collector doll magazines a mass produced doll so
obviously based on the idea of a OOAK, but with no mention of them procuring
rights etc, or explaining their inspiration. I have yet to discover what
came about from that.

michaela
http://recital.tripod.com
so how does this affect people who recreate a costume? With self drafted
patterns that obviously deiate from the original with fabrics that are only
in passing the same.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Report Back from DuPont TextileTour
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 20:44:34 -0500
Status: RO

Kayta,

The only thing they said was that the winder breakers could be machine
washed but only about 6 times.  After that the textile would start breaking
down.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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From: Lynn Downward <lynnie1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 18:20:45 -0800
Status: RO

Not SCA.  Was part of the California Ren. Faire for 23 years, now retired.
I'm still working the Dickens Faire in San Francisco and the smaller ren
fair in San Luis Obispo.
LynnD
----- Original Message -----
From: <LadyGryphon@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 9:47 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume


>
> In a message dated 2/3/02 7:31:43 AM, margali@99main.com writes:
>
> << > I've been noticing a lot of h-costume conversations lately geared
toward
> SCA activities.  I get so much out the higher level, 'scholarly' type
threads
> here, and I guess I just want to keep it that way. >>
>
> Just out of curiosity-what's the ratio on this list? Everybody on list
send
> in an e-mail listing your affiliation, preferred year, preferred activity.
If
> you belong to more than one group, include all the groups you play with
and
> each will get a fraction toward the total. I'll keep a tally and send the
> numbers in when I'm done. Perhaps the reason for the SCA geared threads is
> there are more Scadians on list than others or that the Scadians are just
> chattier/more vocal.
> Lady G
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 21:18:24 -0600
Status: RO

I thought the CSA meeting was in Minneapolis?  Or am I confusing it with 
Ars Textrina?  I was planning to go...

Cheers,
Danielle

At 02:06 AM 3/5/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Karen,
>
>You get to meet Susan and I in June for the Costume Society of America
>meeting.  I think Ann Wass is going to be there too!  Anyone else going to
>Chicago in June for CSA?
>
>Penny Ladnier
>Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
>http://www.costumegallery.com
>http://www.costumeclassroom.com
>
>
> >
> > I've been on h-costume since summer of '97, and I've enjoyed both the
> > discussions we've had on the board, and meeting folks from the list in
> > person (Hi Teddy, Mel, Danielle, Melanie, Drea, Deb, and everyone else
> > I've had the pleasure of meeting). This list is a constant source of
> > inspiration!
> >
> >
> > Karen

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 22:34:25 -0500
Status: RO

Danielle,

CSA National is in Chicago the first week of June.  You might be thinking of
a region's meeting.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


----- Original Message -----
From: "Danielle Nunn-Weinberg" <dannw@mediaone.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 10:18 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Why are you on h-costume


> I thought the CSA meeting was in Minneapolis?  Or am I confusing it with
> Ars Textrina?  I was planning to go...
>
> Cheers,
> Danielle
>
> At 02:06 AM 3/5/2002 -0500, you wrote:
> >Karen,
> >
> >You get to meet Susan and I in June for the Costume Society of America
> >meeting.  I think Ann Wass is going to be there too!  Anyone else going
to
> >Chicago in June for CSA?
> >
> >Penny Ladnier
> >Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> >http://www.costumegallery.com
> >http://www.costumeclassroom.com
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I've been on h-costume since summer of '97, and I've enjoyed both the
> > > discussions we've had on the board, and meeting folks from the list in
> > > person (Hi Teddy, Mel, Danielle, Melanie, Drea, Deb, and everyone else
> > > I've had the pleasure of meeting). This list is a constant source of
> > > inspiration!
> > >
> > >
> > > Karen
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Subject: [h-cost] Eliz. corset question
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 22:52:34 -0600
Status: RO

I have a question for the corset-makers out there...

A friend has been having difficulties constructing a corset for herself. She
explains the problem as that she is pear-shaped, and so the corsets she has
made tend to ride up on her. Or as she described it (paraphrase) "I don't
have any sort of hourglass shape in the waist to keep the corset where it
belongs." If she can get a corset to fit, it flattens her out more than what
she is looking for. (She basically wants *some* cleavage, and it tends to
create *none*). She said she tried Drea's pattern generator, but it did not
work out well. I have not yet seen her attempts, so I can't give much more
details than that.

It sounds like she needs something that will keep the corset sitting where
it is supposed to. I do not have this problem, as I am quite hourglass
shaped and the corset stays just fine :-)

Any hints, tips, instructions, details that we can use to draft up a corset
that will work for her? Thanks!

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
Bristol,
BRF FOF

So many books, so little time

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************


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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 22:42:32 -0700
Status: RO

No, not me....*sigh*....I actually think the next time I'm traveling out
of town for anything (at all) will be July, when I'm headed up to Canada
for an SCA event.  I'm trying really, really hard to be a good girl, and
save all my money and vacation time for my trip to England this
September.....
--Sue

Penny Ladnier wrote:
> 
> Karen,
> 
> You get to meet Susan and I in June for the Costume Society of America
> meeting.  I think Ann Wass is going to be there too!  Anyone else going to
> Chicago in June for CSA?
> 
> Penny Ladnier
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Mar  6 00:40:10 2002
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 22:21:31 -0800
Status: RO

Back in about 1978 I attended my first Northern Renaissance Pleasure Faire. 
And was hooked! I started out with the Scottish group (Clan Colin, no 
longer at Faire; then helped found St. Brigid's, also no longer at Faire), 
then joined the Guild of St. George, portraying a member of Queen 
Elizabeth's Court. Been doing that ever since. Love it!
My next group was the SCA. I retained my liking for 16th Century 
English-Scottish history. I've been toying with the idea of getting back 
into active status (a lot of that is due to Robin Netherton's very 
interesting discussions on the 4-panel Gothic dress that sounds *very* 
comfortable for SCA camping uses).
Then there is my by now 20+-year-old interest in pre-Gold Rush California; 
at Sutter's Fort we represent 1846. I am a member of the Women's Costume 
Committee. This is the group I like to hand-sew my garments for (mainly 
because I *like* handsewing <g>); many of them think I'm nuts, but 
h-costumers understand.
I have also, at various times, participated in the Dickens Christmas Fair 
(not as often as I would like due to the distance from home and the fact I 
still need to work full-time).
My latest venture is as a founding member of the Greater Sacramento Area 
Costumers' Guild (GSACG). I can second Kayta's statements about the amount 
of work even a small club requires. We are still hanging in there and going 
into our 3rd (!) year. But you do need dedicated people who have the time, 
energy, and talent to organize things.
I don't exactly remember how I found out about h-costume, but it's one of 
my favorite discussion lists. And you keep bringing up fascinating bits 
that make me want to try out *lots* of different places and times. It's 
great fun having discussions with people from all around the world.
I'm just thinking about the fact that in less than 3 years I will be able 
to retire from my State job. The world will open even more...

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eliz. corset question
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 00:37:32 -0600
Status: RO

Has she tried shortening the bodies by an inch or two? It might not be a
tightness issue, it might be a hip issue. If she is very 'pear shaped',
the motion of her hips while walking (dancing?) might be pushing the
corset up. Just a thought.


Karen
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 "from Joe Cool at Mar 5, 2002 11:35:02 am"
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 23:08:36 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

It's right in the mail headers of every piece of mail sent to the list;

> List-Help: <mailto:h-costume-request@mail.indra.com?subject=help>
> List-Post: <mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com>
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> List-Id: Re-creating period costume,






> 
> 
> > Whoops, this list has over 400 members.  Hold on to your
> > mailboxes, people.
> 
> Eliz,
> could you remind me how to unsub?  Thanks!
> 
> 
> =====
> --cin
> Cynthia
> hysteria95126@yahoo.com
> 
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK Copyright (Was: I'm a costumer, not a webmaster)
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 08:36:52 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Following on from the discussion on copyright issues in different countries I found the following
site which has a brief run-down on the state of things this side of the pond.
http://www.patent.gov.uk/copy/

Basically copyright lasts for 70 years after the death of the author.  There are a number of
things that you should be aware of.  It is actaully copyright infrigement to download anything off
the internet without the express permission of the owner as it is classified as copying.  I
believe this applies equally for anything that originates in the UK and the EC.

Rachel

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK Copyright (Was: I'm a costumer, not a webmaster)
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 03:35:08 -0500
Status: RO

So this is why all the British students write me!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


----- Original Message -----
From: "Rachel" <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2002 3:36 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK Copyright (Was: I'm a costumer, not a webmaster)


> Following on from the discussion on copyright issues in different
countries I found the following
> site which has a brief run-down on the state of things this side of the
pond.
> http://www.patent.gov.uk/copy/
>
> Basically copyright lasts for 70 years after the death of the author.
There are a number of
> things that you should be aware of.  It is actaully copyright infrigement
to download anything off
> the internet without the express permission of the owner as it is
classified as copying.  I
> believe this applies equally for anything that originates in the UK and
the EC.
>
> Rachel
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Everything you'll ever need on one web page
> from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
> http://uk.my.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Mar  6 04:10:17 2002
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Date: Wed,  6 Mar 2002 09:52:10 +0000
Status: RO

> > It is actaully copyright infrigement
> to download anything off
> > the internet without the express permission of the owner as it is
> classified as copying.  I
> > believe this applies equally for anything that originates in the UK and
> the EC.

Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote :

> So this is why all the British students write me!
> 
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com

More likely to be the quality of your site. Or its listing on search engines. Or both.

I can't see anything on your front page that screams "this is American!", so I doubt if they know or care what country you're in.  That's the great thing about the INTERnet: it's international. 

Of course, when it comes to law, this does get complicated. In my day job, I work for an American company, but I'm British and based in Britain. We run web-sites aimed at German, French and various other European countries. The web servers are in Britain, the company is American, but we sell and operate under the laws of whichever country the customer's in: so if someone in (say) China copies a picture off a French site, whose laws do they get done under?  I dunno. I leave that to our legal department.








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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Mar  6 05:11:57 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:better sources for corset coutil?
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 05:52:51 -0500
Status: RO

    You might try Farthingales www.farthingales.on.ca for corset coutil.
Their services and prices are good. I know she ships anywhere.

Regards
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage
fine hand-sewn embroidered garments, historical sewing patterns & embroidery
supplies
(519) 799-5577, fax (519) 799-5418 http://www.5rivers.org  email:
info@5rivers.org


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Mar  6 05:27:50 2002
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 12:20:52 +0100
Status: RO

Hi,

I bought white cotton damast and painted it.
I wanted to make it a warm yellow but it turned out orange.
Yes! Orange!

I don't know what I can do with it.
Is this fabrick o.k. for an Italian renaissance dress?
Or is the pattern too modern?
The colour to orange?
I think it will look great with an over dress of dark green.
Mmmm....


http://members.photofun.com/Deredere-Galbraith/fabrick

Greetings,
        Deredere


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Mar  6 08:08:21 2002
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 07:50:29 -0600
Status: RO

Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
> Not long ago, a friend of mine found that costume drawings she had made
> for a class handout (and posted on her own website) had been re-posted,
> without her knowledge, to a yahoo group, to be used as a reference by
> members of that group. She was not averse to sharing the information, but
> she was disturbed that it was reprinted without the context of the rest of
> the article, and improperly credited too.

I have come across another costume website that has grabbed a photo of
me from my site (of me in my Elizabethan underwear, no less!), and
posted it to their site.  They didn't ask my permission that I recall,
but at least they credit it to me and put a link to my site right beside it.

Another imaginative soul had taken my houppelande photo and pasted Queen
Amidala's head on it for a future Star Wars fashions site!

Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 09:19:37 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 3/5/2002 10:18:50 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
dannw@mediaone.net writes:

<<  thought the CSA meeting was in Minneapolis?  Or am I confusing it with 
 Ars Textrina?  I was planning to go...
  >>
CSA is in Chicago, at the Drake Hotel, June 5-8.  It may be Ars Textrina that 
is in Minneapolis--I don't keep up with it anymore.
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabrick question
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 07:38:33 -0700
Status: RO

I'm sure that people like Teddy and Danielle would be glad to "adopt" it
and give it a good home for you <g>
--Sue

Deredere & Owen Iskander wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I bought white cotton damast and painted it.
> I wanted to make it a warm yellow but it turned out orange.
> Yes! Orange!
> 
> I don't know what I can do with it.
> Is this fabrick o.k. for an Italian renaissance dress?
> Or is the pattern too modern?
> The colour to orange?
> I think it will look great with an over dress of dark green.
> Mmmm....
> 
> http://members.photofun.com/Deredere-Galbraith/fabrick
> 
> Greetings,
>         Deredere
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] copyright
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 08:49:18 -0600
Status: RO

Robin Netherton wrote:

>
>Giving credit does not relieve you of the need to get permission to repost
>someone's work.
>

Two words.  "Fair Use"  I'm not particularly disagreeing with your post, 
but we do have to remember fair use lest the government finish 
destroying the concept.  Fair Use says that if I use a small portion of 
your work, such that it does not destroy the value of your work, and I 
credit you and the specific work I am quoting, it is legal.

So, if I use the miniscule portion that pertains to sixteenth century 
shirts of a large costume book on my website with proper attributions, I 
am covered by fair use.  If I scan Janet Arnold's article on sixteenth 
and seventeenth century shirts & post it, I am really, really violating 
copyright.  If I use one of her diagrams from the article, I am in the 
grey area.  If I took Kipar's picture of the columbine boy's shirt, that 
would be a violation.  Besides, it takes me less space to link to it. 
 ;>  If I use a closeup picture of the armpit from Levy's lace book, I 
haven't destroyed the value of the book.  If I were to finally get my 
hands on the New Caroligian Modelbook, and scanned the needlework 
pattern from the columbine shirt, I would be damaging the value of the book.

All that said, I'm not really disagreeing with your post.  You just 
hadn';t mentioned fair use, and it _is_ important.

-Magdalena

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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 10:07:24 EST
Status: RO

A revision of the copyright law is under consideration in the U.S. Congress.  
It is particularly interesting because it would involve extending rights yet 
again.  And it seems that, philosophically, not only are copyright laws 
designed to protect the creator, but also to insure public access and, 
eventually, public domain.  There is debate as to whether it is fair to keep 
retroactively extending copyright, virtually forever, as the whole idea 
orignally was that, eventually, rights would expire and the public would have 
free access.  I'm not sure when this is set to come before Congress again or 
what the outcome will be--just heard a snippet of this discussion on NPR.
Ann Wass
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Mar  6 11:36:29 2002
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 12:35:03 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


I wrote:
> >Giving credit does not relieve you of the need to get permission to repost
> >someone's work.

Magdalena reminded us:
> Fair Use says that if I use a small portion of 
> your work, such that it does not destroy the value of your work, and I 
> credit you and the specific work I am quoting, it is legal. ...
> All that said, I'm not really disagreeing with your post.  You just 
> hadn';t mentioned fair use, and it _is_ important.

Yes, that's true, but let me elaborate on that further. I've spent my
lifetime in the publishing business, and have come to be acutely aware
that the *context* in which you use something is as important to a judge's
determination of fair use as is the quantity and proportion of material
re-used. Fair use is generally understood only to apply in cases of
criticism, review, or scholarship. So, if I'm analyzing a book in an
article for an academic journal or a review for a magazine, I can quote
snippets from it (though not a whole chapter!). But I might not be able to
reprint the same material in another context.

In my earlier post I described this situation:

> Not long ago, a friend of mine found that costume drawings she had
> made for a class handout (and posted on her own website) had been
> re-posted, without her knowledge, to a yahoo group, to be used as a
> reference by members of that group. She was not averse to sharing the
> information, but she was disturbed that it was reprinted without the
> context of the rest of the article, and improperly credited too. She
> pointed out to the reposter that it would be more useful to simply
> refer people to her own website, but I believe the reposter responded
> by simply correcting the credit line. Giving credit does not relieve
> you of the need to get permission to repost someone's work.

In this case, the reposter simply took a diagram of a garment construction
from my friend's handout and stuck it into the Files section of that Yahoo
group. The only text on it was the caption, which was amended to say
something like "Construction of a 16th-century shirt, drawn by Mary
Jones." (though it wasn't a shirt, and her name isn't Mary Jones.) The
reposter put a post out at the same time to alert people that she had
added this to the files, but there was no discussion of the validity,
source, or context of the image, and even if there had been, the
discussion would not be apparent to people who went through the Files
section at a later date and found the image. Lacking any clear context of
analysis or discussion, the credit alone was not sufficient for the
reposter to claim fair use -- it was a clear violation.

I have since noticed that there are many such images stuck in the Files
sections of certain groups, including images of historic artworks that are
most likely taken from museum sites or in-copyright books. Without an
accompanying analysis, these images stand alone, and do not represent fair
use. (If there were some way to link each image to the discussion about it
in the group's archives, that might help.)

So, to look at your examples in this light:

> So, if I use the miniscule portion that pertains to sixteenth century
> shirts of a large costume book on my website with proper attributions,
> I am covered by fair use.

If you are analyzing, critiquing, or commenting on Arnold's treatment,
that would generally be seen as fair use. But suppose you were writing
your own costume book, with lots of little sections, each describing a
particular type of garment, and instead of writing your own 2-3 paragraphs
on 16th-c. shirts, you dropped in Arnold's equivalent passage whole (with
a footnote) because you figure she said it better than you could and you
didn't have anything more to add. A judge would probably consider that a
violation. (And it's the judge's opinion that matters, not yours.)

Remember, though, that the *information* Arnold presents is not
copyrighted; copyright applies to the *wording*. If you presented your own
paraphrase of Arnold's information, without lifting whole sentences and
paragraphs intact, you are on firmer ground. Credit in such a case is
considered a sign of academic honesty and further establishes that you are
paraphrasing rather than plagiarizing, but the legality doesn't revolve
strictly around the use of credit.

> If I use one of her diagrams from the article, I am in the 
> grey area.

This is harder. Some judges may view any single image as a whole, even if
it is part of a series of images, or only one image from an article.

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] someplace to wear costumes
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 12:18:40 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO


For those of you looking for a place to wear 19th century costumes in
Massachusetts....

Just a reminder that we will be having a Tea Dance this Sunday, with
Patri Pugliese teaching and leading dances of the mid-19th century,
such as Waltz, Polka, Schottische, contras, and quadrilles.

As usual, we will have scrumptious refreshments unrivalled throughout
the dance world.  Except, of course, at CVD's balls, where the same
cooks ply their trade...

Music brought to you through the miracle of electronics.

Attire: casual -- that is, period daywear, if you have it and want to
wear it, or something modern and comfortable to dance in; women are
requested to wear a skirt rather than trousers, and men the reverse;
T-shirts are frowned on...and shorts are Right Out.

Price: still a lowly $5.

Location: the First Unitarian Society of Newton, 1326 Washington Street.

For details, directions, or to resolve dilemmas, call or write:
(617) 964-7684, or michael@vintagedancers.org.  Please note, any of
you who have my MEDIAONE address in your address books, that that
address is changing; use the vintagedancers address to be sure of
reaching me.

Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 10:16:11 -0800
Status: RO

>
>
> This is harder. Some judges may view any single image as a whole, even if
> it is part of a series of images, or only one image from an article.
>
> -

One image (photo, drawing, pattern diagram)  is legally a whole, because it can
be sold and re-sold separately for different articles, books, etc, not
necessarily in combination with the other images it was originally published
with.   Photographers and artists resell individual images all the time.

The purpose of fair use is not to relieve you of the work of creating images,
writing text, etc. by using other people's work in whole or in part, by itself or
combined with bits quoted from numerous creators.  Its purpose is to allow you to
quote those other works for criticism, comment, review, analysis, etc.

Fran Grimble

---------------------------------------------
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Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
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       I am not up on Italian Ren, but if the color on my monitor is close to 
accurate, it is a gorgeous color and should be fabulous under dark green.

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I am not up on Italian Ren, but if the color on my monitor is close to accurate, it is a gorgeous color and should be fabulous under dark green.
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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From: Angela Kovatch <a_kovatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] copyright
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 10:17:11 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

--- AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
> A revision of the copyright law is under
> consideration in the U.S. Congress.  
> It is particularly interesting because it would
> involve extending rights yet 
> again.  

Ann-
Do you happen to remember any more details about this
(approx. what day you heard it on, which show...)?  I
am very curious about this.  When I searched NPR's
website, the only related story I could come up with
was the one I saw in the New York Times recently,
about the US Supreme Court (not Congress) agreeing to
review the current laws and decide whether the 1998
extension was in fact legal, which might result in it
getting reversed, thus shortening copyright from
current terms.  Apparently the Constitution mentions
the argument you gave - that the original intent was
for works to eventually fall into the public domain -
so extending copyright repeatedly and indefinitely
might be decided to be unconstitutional.  (One of the
biggest visible supporters of the extensions is
Disney, because some early Mickey Mouse images would
be about to fall into the public domain.)

I would find it very curious if new legislation is
being considered at the same time the current
legislation is being questioned and might end up being
thrown out.  But then again, our congressmen&women
don't always do things in the way that makes most
sense. :)

-Angela

>From NPR's website:

This segment is from
All Things Considered 
Tuesday, February 19, 2002 

Listen to Segment
Listen to Entire Show
View Program Segments 

Supreme Court - Copyright Law
NPR's Rick Karr reports the Supreme Court has agreed
to hear a challenge to the 1998 Sonny Bono Copyright
Term Extension Act, which added twenty years to the
term of all future copyrights and all existing
copyrights. Some copyrights now last as long as
ninety-five years. Librarians, online civil
libertarians, and film preservationists opposed the
legislation, saying few materials copyrighted since
the nineteen twenties have passed into the public
domain and the Bono Act only makes the situation
worse. (3:00) 


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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 13:29:06 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 3/6/2002 1:18:54 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
a_kovatch@yahoo.com writes:

<< agreeing to
 review the current laws and decide whether the 1998
 extension was in fact legal, which might result in it
 getting reversed, thus shortening copyright from
 current terms. >>
You may be correct--the story I heard may just have referred to the pending 
court case.  You know how you sometimes listen with half an ear?  That may 
have been the case with me.  I thought the discussion was about new 
legislation as well as the court case, but I could be mistaken.  I'm not even 
100% sure if it was on "All Things Considered," but I think so.  Forgive me 
for posting information and not being more precise.

But the story brought to mind that, when I viewed an exhibit on copyright at 
the Library of Congress several years ago, the point was made about public 
access, so I found that part of the story interesting.  Most of us, I 
believe, assume that copyright laws exist solely to protect the creator.  (Of 
course, protecting the creator does in itself aid public access.  Supposedly, 
one would be more likely to put one's work out there where people could see 
it if one were assured of some protection.)

Ann Wass
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 21:35:22 +0100
Status: RO

Hi.
I just want to add my 2 cents two. It is very beautifull....... i would
not be afraid to use it in any period..........Yes green would be
gorgeous
Bjarne

LalahTT@aol.com wrote:

>       I am not up on Italian Ren, but if the color on my monitor is
> close to accurate, it is a gorgeous color and should be fabulous under
> dark green.
>
> Lalah
> Never Give up, Never Surrender,
> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
> Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
> http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
>

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 21:29:14 -0000
Status: RO

Ulrika wrote:


> I can't vouch for them, because I just googled "coutil" to
> see what came up, but there's a UK shop that seems to have
> pretty good prices:
>
> http://www.whaleys-bradford.ltd.uk/index.htm
>

I suggest that anyone dealing with Whaleys should be careful; by coincidence
I have just had to argue with them on an overcharge of almost £400 on an
order which should have cost less than £100. They have grudgingly refunded
the money which they had wrongly removed from my bank account in the first
place, but it doesn't exactly inspire one with confidence.
I won't waste bandwidth copying the exchange of e-mails to the list, but if
anyone wants the gory details I'll happily forward them off-list...

best wishes
Stevie



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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
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References: <3C85FB93.11BB7A44@kabelfoon.nl>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabrick question
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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 13:06:31 +1300
Status: RO

> I don't know what I can do with it.

Sit it somewhere where you will look at it often, but can still go about
whatever else you want to do, so that you might happen to glance at it and
then something else, and poof! Inspiration:)

> Is this fabrick o.k. for an Italian renaissance dress?
> Or is the pattern too modern?

Pattern is perhaps too free and 'naturalistic' for italian ren... but the
colour is wonderful. And I would be inclined to go with what *I* wanted to
do with the fabric, rather than worry over someone else getting a bee in
their bonnet;). Do you happen to have other eras that you want to try? I'm
not absolutely up to par on my 18thC patterns, but I'm sure it could be
close to something at some point of that century?
Of course a ballgown of the 50s/60s might be perfect:).

> The colour to orange?

How can anything be too orange?!?!?!;)

> I think it will look great with an over dress of dark green.
> Mmmm....

Yes:) Some gold embroidery and cream somewhere and pearls would also look
divine with this colour:)

michaela
http://recital.tripod.com



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] copyright
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 19:08:48 -0500
Status: RO



>>> a_kovatch@yahoo.com 03/06/02 01:17PM >>>
--- AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
> A revision of the copyright law is under
> consideration in the U.S. Congress.  
> It is particularly interesting because it would
> involve extending rights yet 
> again.  

 (One of the
biggest visible supporters of the extensions is
Disney, because some early Mickey Mouse images would
be about to fall into the public domain.)
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Another supporter at that time was the estate of George Gershwin, 
who was about to begin losing the copyright on his music.


I am including something I just got today in my email.  I work at a University Library and copyright regulations remain a topic of great concern and confusion.  I'm sorry I'm not too much help in translating what this all means, I just know it's a quagmire and it's usually the little guy (us) who will pay the price.  This information is about international intellectual property rights on the web.  

Kathy Hoover
West Virginia University Library


SMALL WORLD, BROAD TREATY: WIPO COPYRIGHT TREATY SET TO
KICK IN
For librarians already concerned with the domestic
challenges offered by the broadly written Digital
Millennium Copyright Act (DMCA), those concerns are now
poised to go global. On March 6th, the World Intellectual
Property Organization (WIPO) treaty on Copyright Terms
(WCT) will go into effect, updating for the digital world
the international copyright policies adopted under the
Berne Convention. Officials at WIPO say the WCT provides a
response "to the challenges of new digital technologies."
The treaty is similar to the DMCA, including one aspect of
the new policy that will surely draw the attention of
librarians and copyright experts in the U.S.--an "anti-
circumvention" provision. Like section 1201 of the DMCA,
the WCT specifically prohibits "the deliberate alteration
or deletion of electronic rights management information."
The WIPO treaty, considered by many to be the driving force
behind the adoption of the DMCA in 1998, was adopted in
1996, and ratified in December of 2001, after 30 members of
WIPO, including the U.S., officially adopted the treaty.

"While we have reached the key number of 30 countries
required for entry into force, I urge all other countries
to follow suit and to incorporate the provisions of the
WCT," said WIPO director general Kamil Idris in a
statement. "This will create the conditions necessary for
the broad-based and legitimate distribution of creative
works and recordings on the Internet." Ironically, just as
the WCT is set to kick in, the DMCA is now under heavy fire
from critics in the United States. On April 1, a California
court will hear a motion from attorneys representing
ElComSoft, the Russian employer of programmer Dmitry
Sklyarov, arrested in the U.S. and accused of circumventing
encryption controls in Adobe e-books, arguing that the DMCA
is unconstitutional (see LJ Academic Newswire 2/19/02).
Last month, Virginia congressman Rick Boucher penned an
editorial on the online C-NET saying that the DMCA needs to
be rewritten. "In the three years since [the DMCA] was
enacted," wrote Boucher, "we have not seen [an increase in]
digital content. Instead, we have seen a rash of lawsuits;
the imprisonment by U.S. authorities of a Russian computer
programmer who had come to the United States to give a
technical talk; and, more recently, the release of compact
discs into the market that cannot be played in computers or
even some CD players."


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Mar  6 21:32:49 2002
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From: "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] G-Street fabrics
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 21:57:21 -0500
Status: RO

For those in the DC area:
I had some time today and wandered into G-Street Fabrics in Rockville.  Boy
was I disappointed.  They have eliminated their Janome department (still
have a few parts left at 50% off) and now only sell Berninas. They will stop
servicing Janome/New Home at the end of March, yes, this month.
Then I wandered over to the book section.  It is mostly gone.  They are only
stocking sewing books and quilting books.  All the Hunnisett, Janet Arnold,
the fashion books, the stuff I went there for is gone. They have a few books
left at deep discount, and I missed when most of the costume stuff sold as I
have not been there lately.  I did pick up "3000 Shoes from 1896 by Roseann
Etinger and two copies of "Lace for Dolls & Dolls' Houses: over 45
decorative patterns in bobbin & needlelace" by Ann Collier. They have
several more copies of this one, at $6.00 instead of the $29.95 it was
priced at originally.  The quilting stuff is now upstairs, and some of the
quilting notions are now in their upstairs notions department, mixed in with
the other notions.  All in all, I was very disappointed.  I talked with the
manager, and they were ready to sell me a bernina at cost, throw in a fabric
coupon, and all, but instead we are servicing my Janome before they go.  I
will have to travel to Fairfax or Frederick if the machine ever needs any
future servicing.
So, if you want to look at what is left of a great costume store, get there
quick.
-Megan

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Mar  6 22:38:21 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] G-Street fabrics
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 23:04:59 EST
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I, too, have noticed that G Street has cut back and consolidated.  They do 
have some good buys in silk taffeta, though--several colors for $18.77/yd.  
Too bad I'm not in the mark for any right now.  But much of the first floor, 
where quilting shared space with home dec, seems to have been turned over to 
custom decorative sewing.  Trims have been cut way back, too, and, of course, 
the books.

On the plus side, though, the store is a lot neater, since they don't have to 
stack stuff on the floors.  (I once visited a tony fabric store in another 
city, and told the salesperson that I lived in Washington and could therefore 
shop G Street.  She said her daughter had visited there and disappointed 
because it was so messy.)

Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I, too, have noticed that G Street has cut back and consolidated.&nbsp; They do have some good buys in silk taffeta, though--several colors for $18.77/yd.&nbsp; Too bad I'm not in the mark for any right now.&nbsp; But much of the first floor, where quilting shared space with home dec, seems to have been turned over to custom decorative sewing.&nbsp; Trims have been cut way back, too, and, of course, the books.<BR>
<BR>
On the plus side, though, the store is a lot neater, since they don't have to stack stuff on the floors.&nbsp; (I once visited a tony fabric store in another city, and told the salesperson that I lived in Washington and could therefore shop G Street.&nbsp; She said her daughter had visited there and disappointed because it was so messy.)<BR>
<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] G-Street fabrics
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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 01:38:17 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Wed, 6 Mar 2002 AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

> On the plus side, though, the store is a lot neater, since they don't have to 
> stack stuff on the floors.  (I once visited a tony fabric store in another 
> city, and told the salesperson that I lived in Washington and could therefore 
> shop G Street.  She said her daughter had visited there and disappointed 
> because it was so messy.)

Rockville G Street, messy? Never would I have applied that word to it.
Now, their old building on G Street, that was a real rabbit warren. I
remember pulling a bolt of something nice out from under some dusty stack
and finding a price of $.97 on it. The clerk shook his head in wonder and
said, "Where did you find that one? That's a prehistoric price." When they
moved to Rockville everything got upscaled. I never would have thought of
them as "messy" in any sense.

(But I like 'em messy.)

--Robin

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From: "Rebecca Anderson" <lady_adele@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?
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Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 17:30:49 +1030
Status: RO

<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV><A href="http://lw12fd.law12.hotmail.msn.com/cgi-bin/compose?curmbox=F000000001&amp;a=05733a40d84ad22cb69fc00fd4c3d346&amp;mailto=1&amp;to=h-costume@mail.indra.com&amp;msg=MSG1015363857.62&amp;start=1906380&amp;len=25165&amp;src=&amp;type=x" target=_top><FONT color=#000099></FONT></A><BR><BR>&gt;I might have asked this question before...do any of you know of a<BR>&gt;cheaper source of corset coutil? I have been ordering from Greenberg<BR>&gt;and Hammer, but I am still looking for a better price.<BR></DIV>
<DIV>Does Coutil go by any other name? I can't find it in my area.</DIV>
<DIV>Hmmm..... maybe I;m just not looking hard enough.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Rebecca Anderson</DIV>
<DIV>aka</DIV>
<DIV>Lady Adele Anders</DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: <a href='http://g.msn.com/1HM101201/11'>Click Here</a><br></html>
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric question
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Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 09:41:08 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Hi Deredere,  

> I bought white cotton damast and painted it. I wanted to make it a
> warm yellow but it turned out orange. Yes! Orange! 

Can I ask why you painted it rather than dying it.... or am I 
misunderstanding?
 
On my monitor it looks like a warm yellow, only *everso slightly* 
orange, if you're looking for it to be... if it counts as orange at all.

> I don't know what I can do with it. Is this fabrick o.k. for an
> Italian renaissance dress? Or is the pattern too modern? 

the pattern looks more 18th century to me, but I could be *way* off 
on that. Someone who knows better will no doubt chip in.... I hope.

> The colour to orange? 

As I said it looks yellow to me.

> I think it will look great with an over dress of dark green.
> Mmmm.... 

Yellow and green, the best colour combination there is. 

Teddy


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric question
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
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Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 11:58:37 +0100
Status: RO

HI Teddy!
 
>> I bought white cotton damast and painted it. I wanted to make it a
>> warm yellow but it turned out orange. Yes! Orange!
> 
> Can I ask why you painted it rather than dying it.... or am I
> misunderstanding?
Deredere is from Holland and not a native speaker and I think she did meant
she dyed it :)

Cass :)

(American in DE but is good friends with Deredere thru the SCA :)

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From: AnnBWass@aol.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] G-Street fabrics
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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 08:24:23 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 3/7/2002 1:40:31 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
robin@shell.nightowl.net writes:

<<  That's a prehistoric price." When they
 moved to Rockville everything got upscaled. I never would have thought of
 them as "messy" in any sense. >>
I had a friend who worked in the Centreville store for a while, and he 
agreed.  They were stuffing so much fabric in at one time that it was 
literally on the floor.  Oh, they made some attempt to stand bolts up to look 
good, but you had to be careful where you walked to avoid stepping on 
something.  I call that messy.  This was three or four years ago, and the 
visitors came in the early '90s.  Now many areas of the store, of course, 
such as bridal, the designer, and evening platforms, always were, and still 
are, very attractively arranged.  Anyway, the stock seems to be thinned out 
quite a bit.
I think all fabric stores are retrenching.  Jo-Ann's has just quit selling 
ribbon by the yard and is now only selling pre-packaged reels.  (And making 
it sound in their flyer like this is such a great deal--so convenient.)  And 
the big box Jo-Ann's, ETC, near us also seems to have cut way back on fabric 
selection.  
I suppose there are fewer and fewer home sewers.  It makes sense because kids 
certainly aren't learning to sew in school anymore.
A costume colleague said we had better be glad we have been hoarding fabric 
because, if the trend continues, we may not be able to find anything in ten 
years.
We may come to rely more heavily on mail order for specialty fabrics.  The 
question is, will these firms be able to stay in business?
Well, I, for one, am trying diligently to use what I already have stashed.  
(Although I did buy one piece of cotton print on my last trip to G Street.)
Ann Wass
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Mar  7 08:49:25 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] web stuff I find I do know
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 23:23:05 -0800
Status: RO

For knitting/crochet directions from an antique original, use an optical 
character reader program to get it into the computer.  These programs think 
they can read text, and every place they can't make sense of it, they tell 
you so you can fix it.  So with the original in one hand and the keyboard 
at the other hand, you can sort of proofread the scanned text, so you don't 
have to type the whole thing in, making typos as you go.  I plan to post 
the instructions to a teens crochet 'opera bag' on my page, which my 
Sweetie scanned in this way, then I corrected, because I crochet and he 
doesn't.

If your image is all black and white, with no grey, save the image as a 
gif.  The way a gif works is to look at how many of what colour comes next, 
as if you were charting needlepoint one row at a time.  A gif of a pen and 
ink drawing will be smaller than a jpg of one.  All the original line-art 
for my page will be gif s.

OTOH, if you have a pencil sketch, with many greys in it, or a colour 
photograph, a jpg of it will be smaller than a gif of it.  (My Sweetie 
explained why, in geek, and I didn't get it.)  The accompanying image of 
the teens crochet opera bag is a jpg.

Before my site goes public, I will post it 'privately', and let some 
knowledgeable people (=Silicon Valley geek friends of mine) preview it for 
'bugs'.  The way to keep a site relatively private is to not link to it or 
from it.  Search engines send out 'spiders', which go from link to link 
finding out where things are.  If you don't have any links in or out, the 
'spiders' have much more difficulty finding it.  Anyway, once the page has 
been 'debugged', I will go public, and everybody will be invited to a 
'housewarming'.

I haven't been this excited since I was pregnant.

Kayta
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] G-Street fabrics
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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 09:22:54 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Thu, 7 Mar 2002 AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 3/7/2002 1:40:31 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
> robin@shell.nightowl.net writes:
> 
> <<  That's a prehistoric price." When they
>  moved to Rockville everything got upscaled. I never would have thought of
>  them as "messy" in any sense. >>
> I had a friend who worked in the Centreville store for a while, and he 
> agreed.  They were stuffing so much fabric in at one time that it was 
> literally on the floor.  Oh, they made some attempt to stand bolts up to look 
> good, but you had to be careful where you walked to avoid stepping on 
> something.  I call that messy.

Yes, I'd agree that the Centreville store was noticeably more haphazard
than Rockville.

> Anyway, the stock seems to be thinned out quite a bit.

This is very disturbing. G Street was always pretty dependable when you
needed some really specific/scarce trim or fabric. The loss of the books
is also upsetting. (Particularly since I somehow missed their 50% off all
books sale when I was last in the store, in September. They may have
beeen clearing them out then.)

--Robin

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Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 14:04:51 +0100
Status: RO



Cassandra Greer wrote:

> HI Teddy!
>
> >> I bought white cotton damast and painted it. I wanted to make it a
> >> warm yellow but it turned out orange. Yes! Orange!
> >
> > Can I ask why you painted it rather than dying it.... or am I
> > misunderstanding?
> Deredere is from Holland and not a native speaker and I think she did meant
> she dyed it :)
>
> Cass :)
>
> (American in DE but is good friends with Deredere thru the SCA :)

Mmm....
I am working too hard on my wedding dress.....
Yes, I ment dying.

Greetings,
        Josiene

>
>
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Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 10:00:17 -0500
Status: RO



This discussion is getting way off-topic for the list, but I want to further
explain something.

Copyright, trademark, and patent law are all branches of "intellectual
property law."

In the United States, the purpose of these laws is both to protect the
creator of a work and to protect the public.

All these laws protect the creator of a work so that he/she can profit from
it *for a limited period of time.* They expire so that no one can keep hold
of that "intellectual property" forever. They also allow competition. An
early US case concerned a company that published business forms. It sued
another company that published business forms with a different design. The
court had to decide exactly what the law covered. Its decision was that the
first company had the copyright on that particular design of business forms,
and that any other company could publish business forms as long as they had
a different design.

This protects the first company, which had invested in the design of the
forms and the manufacture of the plates used to print them. It protects the
second company, which did NOT COPY the existing forms, but which invested
its own time and resources into creating and manufacturing new ones (a
critical point). And it protects the public, which benefits from a choice of
business forms. 

Intellectual property law is extremely complicated, as this discussion
proves. It is also constantly evolving. There is a fine line between copying
and copyright infringement, which is why you can legally buy cheap knockoffs
of expensive products.

Gail Finke




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?
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Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 15:10:56 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> > http://www.whaleys-bradford.ltd.uk/index.htm
> 
> I suggest that anyone dealing with Whaleys should be careful; by
> coincidence I have just had to argue with them on an overcharge of
> almost £400 on an order which should have cost less than £100.
> They have grudgingly refunded the money which they had wrongly
> removed from my bank account in the first place, but it doesn't
> exactly inspire one with confidence. I won't waste bandwidth
> copying the exchange of e-mails to the list, but if anyone wants
> the gory details I'll happily forward them off-list... 

Hi Stevie,

I'm sorry to hear that you've had such problems with Whaleys.  I've 
been dealing with them for *years* have never had any problems 
with them and have always found them very friendly and helpful.

Teddy


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Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 15:17:41 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Hi Cass,

> > > I bought white cotton damast and painted it. I wanted to make it a
> > > warm yellow but it turned out orange. Yes! Orange!
> > 
> > Can I ask why you painted it rather than dying it.... or am I
> > misunderstanding?
>
> Deredere is from Holland and not a native speaker and I think she
> did meant she dyed it :) 

Ahhh... that makes more sense - it didn't *look* painted in the 
picture and I thought I might be missing out on some new 
technique or something.

Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric question
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Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 15:26:13 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Mmm....
> I am working too hard on my wedding dress.....
> Yes, I ment dying.

Oooh!  Wedding-dress.... do tell, do tell. Is it a period style or 
modern?

Or are you keeping it secret until the big day?

Teddy
(Librarians are *allowed* to be nosey and to gossip - it's known as 
practising our information gathering and dissemination skills)

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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 09:58:09 -0600
Status: RO

For those of you that may have bookmarked my site...I had to move it
yesterday.  Those nasty folks at f2s decided to shut down their free
services.  I moved to Tripod and have lots of obnoxoius ads...but at least
they don't shut you down for bandwidth violations like Geocities.

  http://kverschoor0.tripod.com/home.htm

I have recently added some photos for the start of the 2002 project.  Let me
know if you have problems getting to the site.

Karen Verschoor
Hosuton, TX

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Mar  7 10:29:54 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?
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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 16:12:00 -0000
Status: RO

Teddy wrote:

>I'm sorry to hear that you've had such problems with Whaleys.  I've
>been dealing with them for *years* have never had any problems
>with them and have always found them very friendly and helpful.

Yes, that was one of the reasons that I'm extremely p'd off with them; if it
weren't for the fact that £400 is a great deal of money to disappear it
wouldn't even have occurred to me to check what they charged. And though
they assured me the money would be refunded by this morning I have just
checked my bank account and it's still not back. I am not a happy bunny...

best wishes
Stevie
off to write another e-mail to them...

> > http://www.whaleys-bradford.ltd.uk/index.htm
>
> I suggest that anyone dealing with Whaleys should be careful; by
> coincidence I have just had to argue with them on an overcharge of
> almost £400 on an order which should have cost less than £100.
> They have grudgingly refunded the money which they had wrongly
> removed from my bank account in the first place, but it doesn't
> exactly inspire one with confidence. I won't waste bandwidth
> copying the exchange of e-mails to the list, but if anyone wants
> the gory details I'll happily forward them
off-list_________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Mar  7 11:25:56 2002
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Date: 7 Mar 2002 09:08:04 -0800
Status: RO

...but at least
> they don't shut you down for bandwidth violations like Geocities.
> 
>   http://kverschoor0.tripod.com/home.htm
> 
Don't they? Then why can´t I get there? (looking forward to seeing your new photos)

Riina


Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping!
http://www.shopping.altavista.com
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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 11:18:01 -0600
Status: RO

I guess I way underestimated how many people go there.  I broke down and
upgraded which will get rid of the ads...but will take a little while to
take effect.  Try again in an hour or so!

Sorry!

Karen Verschoor
Houston, TX

.
> >
> >   http://kverschoor0.tripod.com/home.htm
> >
> Don't they? Then why can´t I get there? (looking forward to seeing your
new photos)
>



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Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 12:53:59 -0500
Status: RO

It *might* be something somewhat temporary.  I'm wondering if they're going to start offering more special order stuff (like JoAnns does with their decorating fabric... swatches at the store that they'll order for you and get fairly quickly).

I do know that they'll be opening a new store in Potomac Mills Mall... I think the date I was given is June... in the old SCAN place, so it'll be pretty big.  Maybe they'll re-expand the books and stuff there, since space can't possibly be that much of an issue with a shop the size that store was.


Fingers crossed, and already anticipating a trip, even if it is further than Rockville for me....

-Elisabeth

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Subject: [h-cost] Dress Accessories will be out in July
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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 10:06:10 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

This came today!

kate

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Dress Accessories
Medieval Finds from Excavations in London

Dear Colleagues,

Boydell & Brewer is pleased to announce the summer reissue of _Dress
Accessories_.  This is the third volume in the series Medieval Finds
from Excavations in London and is an invaluable sourcebook,
documenting the discoveries of items of medieval dress accessories in
London.  Discussing over two thousand brooches, rings, buckles,
pendants etc. this is a book that will appeal to the general reader
as well as the dress historian and archaeologist.  Appearing in
hardback for $60/35GBP, this book is heavily illustrated in color and
black and white.  

Dress Accessories will be available in July.  We encourage you to
place your orders now and be put on back order.  When the book
becomes available, it will be shipped to you immediately.  

Boydell & Brewer is also pleased to announce the forthcoming
publication of _Heraldry, Pageantry and Social Display in Medieval
England_, edited by Peter Coss and Maurice Keen.  

Social display, studied seriously for the first time, is discussed
through a range of artifacts including monumental effigies, brasses,
jewels, seals, coins etc.  Well illustrated in color and black and
white, this volume addresses a series of interrelated themes around
the issue of display. 

Also available in July for $70.00/45GBP.  

The discount schedule for both books is as follows: 
1-4 copies 20%
5 or more 40%
20 or more 45%
50 or more 50%

If you would like additional information about these title or any of
the titles in the Medieval Finds from Excavations in London series,
please visit our website at: http://www.boydell.co.uk/LIVING1.HTM, or
email me at krispayne@compuserve.com.

I look forward to receiving your orders!

Kristin Payne
Sales/Marketing Manager
Boydell & Brewer
668 Mt. Hope Ave., Rochester NY 14620
P: (585) 275-0419 * F: (585) 271-8778
www.boydell.co.uk
email: krispayne@compuserve.com



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Mar  7 14:31:42 2002
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Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 21:11:50 +0100
Status: RO

Hello
I do look forwards for having a look on your site. Good Luck! It is quite funny
to make webpages. But my puter dont have more space, so i have to wait till
after our hollidays this summer. We are going to have a new puter then!

Bjarne

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> For knitting/crochet directions from an antique original, use an optical
> character reader program to get it into the computer.  These programs think
> they can read text, and every place they can't make sense of it, they tell
> you so you can fix it.  So with the original in one hand and the keyboard
> at the other hand, you can sort of proofread the scanned text, so you don't
> have to type the whole thing in, making typos as you go.  I plan to post
> the instructions to a teens crochet 'opera bag' on my page, which my
> Sweetie scanned in this way, then I corrected, because I crochet and he
> doesn't.
>
> If your image is all black and white, with no grey, save the image as a
> gif.  The way a gif works is to look at how many of what colour comes next,
> as if you were charting needlepoint one row at a time.  A gif of a pen and
> ink drawing will be smaller than a jpg of one.  All the original line-art
> for my page will be gif s.
>
> OTOH, if you have a pencil sketch, with many greys in it, or a colour
> photograph, a jpg of it will be smaller than a gif of it.  (My Sweetie
> explained why, in geek, and I didn't get it.)  The accompanying image of
> the teens crochet opera bag is a jpg.
>
> Before my site goes public, I will post it 'privately', and let some
> knowledgeable people (=Silicon Valley geek friends of mine) preview it for
> 'bugs'.  The way to keep a site relatively private is to not link to it or
> from it.  Search engines send out 'spiders', which go from link to link
> finding out where things are.  If you don't have any links in or out, the
> 'spiders' have much more difficulty finding it.  Anyway, once the page has
> been 'debugged', I will go public, and everybody will be invited to a
> 'housewarming'.
>
> I haven't been this excited since I was pregnant.
>
> Kayta
>     //// \\\
>    ////-@@\\\
>   ((((   7 )))
>    (((  <> ))))
>       )   ((((((
> /----\   /---\))
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 13:56:32 -0800
Status: RO

Some of you may have noticed that the fair use website I gave you 
didn't work. 

This one is the newest one (as they have evidently changed 
directories. Sigh.):
http://www.libraries.psu.edu/mtss/fairuse/default.html


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 22:00:57 -0600
Status: RO

5This is just from my experience, but...
It depends on what you are re-creating.  Granted, my experience is with 
fantasy-Science fiction costumes, but there may be some similarities.  I 
have a friend who does furry creatures, and he says, whatever you 
do,  don't re-create anything from Disney - even if it's just for your own 
enjoyment, if they find out, they WILL come after you.  Paramount used to 
be the same about Star Trek, but now as long as you're not selling the 
costumes or appearing in them to make money, they're at least not pursuing 
you.  We've re-created paintings by a couple of different artists as 
costumes, and they uniformly have been very flattered.  When this same 
friend did a re-creation of the Hamm's beer bear several years ago, he 
contacted the company, who sent him all kinds of promotional info as 
background and even a copy of the sheet music for the theme song.

So, as far as making costumes, I think it depends on what you are going to 
do with it and what it's source is.  This is just my opinion, and IANAL.

Sandy

>michaela
>http://recital.tripod.com
>so how does this affect people who recreate a costume? With self drafted
>patterns that obviously deiate from the original with fabrics that are only
>in passing the same.

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed To Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly--
Why They Are Simply Doomed."

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
-- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda

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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 20:40:52 +0000
Status: RO

Hi everyone,

Firstly, it's a very long time since I contributed to this list - must
be at least three years ago, probably longer - so I'm a little out of
touch on what the current thinking is on French hoods.  However the
recent spate of mail on the subject has aroused by interest.

>Those of you who have made this work, how did you get the turned back edge to 
>"stand up", if you will, to give the appropriate coronet, as with the later 
>style of hood (1540's)?  Is there still a seperate structure that the hood part 
>attaches to via the billiments or am I just going about this all wrong?

Some years ago (about five or so) I did my one serious attempt at a
historical costume.  I'd dabbled around a bit, done quite a lot of basic
research, but eventually the subject of the French Hood piqued my
curiosity to such an extent that I thought I'd have a go at making one -
and what was more, I would use as many primary sources as was possible,
avoiding secondary when I could.

So began a search for as many books with pictures by Holbein and his
contemporaries.  I admit, I got lucky with a couple of books (acquired
from a second hand book shop) which were devoted to Holbein's works.
And from that research came (after nearly a year) not just a French
Hood, but a complete Tudor court gown, dated around 1540.  The work I
did on the hood I wrote up in an article which was printed in The
Mantle, now the publication of Costume Guild UK.

The article was entitled "It's just an illusion?" and for a good reason.
For there was one painting by Holbein that was key, and that was a
profile portrait of the Princess Mary, daughter of Henry VIII and
Catherine of Aragon.  The reason that it was so important was that it
showed a French Hood that appeared to lie flat upon the head.  A close
look at many other portraits depicting this style of headdress convinced
me of one thing, that the angle of the "coronet" was not achieved by the
headdress itself, but was achieved by the arrangement of the hair
underneath it!  What was more, if you angle your head just so, a French
hood can appear as though it is raised, when in fact it is not! - hence
the title of the article. 

My 1540 French hood is actually composed of six parts: the underlying
cap; a strip of cloth that holds the cap in place; the black hood
section; the paste (or coloured band of cloth between the two biliments)
and the upper and lower biliments.  I do now have a website, and if you
want to take a look at the costume (and the headdress of course) then go
to www.ireadh.demon.co.uk/costumes.  The costume is shown from two
angles, front and side on.

Hope this helps.
-- 
Maggie Percival
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 12:36:30 -0800
Status: RO

At 04:49 AM 3/5/02 -0800, Heather Meadows wrote:

>The one thing I keep being struck by is how many people keep
>saying "oh i'd love to do that period, but I have no place
>to wear it."
>
>If you want to do a period, and have no place to wear something,
>why don't you start a group


I'd like to urge everyone to heed Heather's excellent advice. Because I'm
the GBACG webmaster I receive many requests for info about events.

GBACG didn't start out as the large, active organization it is today. It
started very small (11 years ago) with a few events and built on that. The new
guild in Sacramento is small but, they are finding that if they continue to 
organize
a few events each year, they will attract more members.

There is a small group of women north of the San Francisco Bay Area
(Lake County) who are interested in 19th century events. Three of us
from GBACG met with them at a 'Victorianish' restaurant in Petaluma (about an
hour north of San Francisco) and we had lunch. We all wore late 19th c. attire.
There were 7 of us and we did look smashing. It was delightful.

An event can be as simple as a picnic and a game of croquet in a local
park.

If there is a restaurant in your area that evokes a particular time or
place, collect a small group, dress up, and go out for lunch or dinner.

Another possibility are fund-raising events and exhibit openings put on by 
museums.
They are often delighted to give free admission to a few, gorgeously 
dressed people
who add colour and atmosphere to their event.

If there is an antique fair or sewing expo coming to your area, contact the 
organizers
and offer to do a small fashion show.

Or dress up in the period of a film and go to the opening. If you contact 
the theatre
ahead of time, they might set aside a section of seats for you --- and you 
can make
an entrance!

Events don't need to be complicated or expensive .... just a group of 
people who
want to enjoy themselves.

Sally Norton
www.gbacg.org

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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 13:34:45 -0800
Status: RO

--=====================_12665531==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed


I forgot to mention the most obvious places (I think my brain cells are
shrinking): Costume Con and Costume College. These are the perfect
places to be admired and share your enthusiasm for costuming. I've
been to both events several times and they are each wonderful and fun
and I'm going again.

-- Sally Norton


Costume College
July 27 - 29
Airtel Plaza Hotel, Van Nuys, CA
Memberships still available

http://www.costumersguildwest.org/links.html

Costume-Con 21
April 18-21, 2003, (Easter Weekend)
Chicago, Illinois.

http://www.jennifarse.com/cc2003/
--=====================_12665531==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
<br>
I forgot to mention the most obvious places (I think my brain cells
are<br>
shrinking): Costume Con and Costume College. These are the perfect<br>
places to be admired and share your enthusiasm for costuming. I've<br>
been to both events several times and they are each wonderful and
fun<br>
and I'm going again.<br>
<br>
-- Sally Norton<br>
<br>
<br>
<b>Costume College<br>
</b>July 27 - 29<br>
Airtel Plaza Hotel, Van Nuys, CA<br>
Memberships still available<br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.costumersguildwest.org/links.html" eudora="autourl">http://www.costumersguildwest.org/links.html</a><br>
<br>
<b>Costume-Con 21<br>
</b>April 18-21, 2003, (Easter Weekend)<br>
Chicago, Illinois.<br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.jennifarse.com/cc2003/" eudora="autourl">http://www.jennifarse.com/cc2003/</a></html>

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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 01:41:07 -0500
Status: RO

Hi People,
I'm in need of some suggestions-
I want to have some nice18th century style
mules/shoes made for myself. I have no experience
ordering custome made shoes.
I have found several web sites with what appear to be
beautiful period footwear.
Does anybody have any recommendations or suggestions on
historic footwear makers ?
Also, has anyone ever ordered shoes from
Plantagenet Shoes? They're in the UK & I live in the US,
but I'm willing to pay extra for shipping if the shoes' quality is
better.
Any input?
Lisa R.

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Subject: [h-cost] Anyone know where I can find this pic?
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Greetings, :-)

I've found a picture I'm very interested in studying in color and/or in
finer detail.  It's in the wonderful book _A Visual History of Costume
The Fourteenth & Fifteenth Centuries_ by Margaret Scott.  It's Picture
94, identified as: 

Flemish street scene, with presentation of a book to Philip the Good of
Burgundy in the background.  Jean le Tavernier.  _Conquestes de
Charlemagne_, MS 9066, f. 11.  Bibliotheque Royale, Brussels.

Anyone know where this might be found online or on a CD?  I'm
particularly interested in the portable market stall and the pattens
that are being worn.

Any help greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Gregory G. Stapleton

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dus-ascii">
<META NAME=3D"Generator" CONTENT=3D"MS Exchange Server version =
6.0.4630.0">
<TITLE>Anyone know where I can find this pic?</TITLE>
</HEAD>
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<P ALIGN=3DLEFT><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial">Greetings,</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"> <FONT FACE=3D"Wingdings" SIZE=3D2>J</FONT></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN></P>

<P ALIGN=3DLEFT><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial">I</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">&#8217;</FONT></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial">ve found a picture I</FONT></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial">&#8217;</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">m very interested in =
studying in color and/or in finer detail.</FONT></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us">&nbsp;<FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial"> It</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">&#8217;</FONT></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial">s in the wonderful book _</FONT></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"><I></I></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><I><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial">A Visual History of Costume The Fourteenth &amp; =
Fifteenth Centuries</FONT></I></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">_</FONT></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial"> by Margaret Scott</FONT></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial">.&nbsp; It</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">&#8217;</FONT></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial">s Picture 94, identified as: </FONT></SPAN></P>

<P ALIGN=3DLEFT><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial">Flemish street scene, with presentation of a book to =
Philip the Good of Burgundy in the background.&nbsp; Jean le =
Tavernier.&nbsp;</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"> <FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">_</FONT></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"><I></I></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><I><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial">Conquestes de Charlemagne</FONT></I></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial">_</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">, MS 9066, f. 11.&nbsp; =
Bibliotheque Royale, Brussels.</FONT></SPAN></P>

<P ALIGN=3DLEFT><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial">Anyone know where this might be found online or on a =
CD?</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT =
SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">&nbsp; I</FONT></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial">&#8217;</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">m particularly interested =
in the portable market stall and the pattens that are being =
worn.</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN></P>

<P ALIGN=3DLEFT><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">Any =
help greatly appreciated.</FONT></SPAN></P>

<P ALIGN=3DLEFT><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial">Thanks,</FONT></SPAN></P>

<P ALIGN=3DLEFT><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial">Gregory G. Stapleton</FONT></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN></P>

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Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 01:03:12 -0500
Status: RO

Thanks Kat!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


----- Original Message -----
From: <kat@grendal.rain.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 07, 2002 4:56 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Copyright web site correction


> Some of you may have noticed that the fair use website I gave you
> didn't work.
>
> This one is the newest one (as they have evidently changed
> directories. Sigh.):
> http://www.libraries.psu.edu/mtss/fairuse/default.html
>
>
> Kat
>
> Kat(June Russell)
> kat@grendal.rain.com
> Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Dianne,

This DuPont plant has been offering the textile merit badge for years.  So I
guess they have had time to iron out the kinks in their program.  The group
we are in has 267 people including adults.  This is the largest group DuPont
has ever had.  They did point out that this would be the last large group.
Next time, the cut-off will be 150 people.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>This DuPont plant has been offering the textile&nbsp;merit badge =
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years.&nbsp; So I guess they have had time to iron out the kinks in =
their=20
program.&nbsp; The group we are in has 267 people including =
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is the largest group&nbsp;DuPont has ever had.&nbsp; They did point out =
that=20
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<DIV>Penny Ladnier<BR>Owner, The Costume Gallery &amp; Costume =
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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Ebay Regency-style paisley shawl
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Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 11:09:46 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

I was considering bidding on this item, but really can't justify the
expense at the moment.  It's still a good deal -- $69.00 (at present).  It
looks like it'd be appropriate for a Regency impression:

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=704255342

Regards,
Mara


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: G-Street
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Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 18:12:42 +0000
Status: RO

<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>
<P>What I was told by someone that works there (when I complained about the lack of costume books) was that G Street had changed ownership (management?) and that the new people are not as interested in costuming as the previous owners had been.</P>
<P>My impression is that it's permanent (though I did fill out a comment card requesting the costume books back, just in case that does any good).</P>
<P>Karen<BR></P></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>&gt;From: Liz / Cozit <COZIT@COMCAST.NET>
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;To: h-costume@indra.com 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Subject: [h-cost] Re: G-Street 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 12:53:59 -0500 
<DIV></DIV>&gt; 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;It *might* be something somewhat temporary. I'm wondering if they're going to start offering more special order stuff (like JoAnns does with their decorating fabric... swatches at the store that they'll order for you and get fairly quickly). 
<DIV></DIV>&gt; 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;I do know that they'll be opening a new store in Potomac Mills Mall... I think the date I was given is June... in the old SCAN place, so it'll be pretty big. Maybe they'll re-expand the books and stuff there, since space can't possibly be that much of an issue with a shop the size that store was. 
<DIV></DIV>&gt; 
<DIV></DIV>&gt; 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Fingers crossed, and already anticipating a trip, even if it is further than Rockville for me.... 
<DIV></DIV>&gt; 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;-Elisabeth 
<DIV></DIV>&gt; 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;_______________________________________________ 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;h-costume mailing list 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;h-costume@mail.indra.com 
<DIV></DIV>&gt;http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
<DIV></DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. <a href='http://g.msn.com/1HM105401/16'>Click Here</a><br></html>
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Subject: [h-cost] Could someone resend the tapsetry link?
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Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 13:34:49 -0500
Status: RO

I have a friend who is really intersted in getting some mediveal 
tapestries, and I accidentally deleted the email which had that great 
link for tapestries.  (I think they were listed in both US and 
Canadian prices, and the link was posted within the last few weeks).  
If someone could re-post it, I would be grateful. =)



Antiquarum Historical Reproductions -- Clothing, Jewellery, Home Decor
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Mar  9 12:53:11 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] 18th C Spanish/Italian
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Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 12:05:08 -0700
Status: RO


Can anyone point me to some good references for Spanish and Italian
clothing (male & female) of the mid-18th C?

Thanks,
					...eliz

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Mar  9 12:53:46 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress Accessories will be out in July
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Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 23:19:42 -0500
Status: RO

In the Textile Society newsletter there is a short brief about this book,

except the title is different:
"Shoes & Patterns: Finds from Medieval Excavations in London,"
by Francis Grew, Margrethe DeNeergarad & Susan Mitford.
152 pages, 27 b/w ill. $45+ ship

Is this a different book from "Dress Accessories"?
Deb R

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Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 23:31:43 -0500
Status: RO

Never mind...went to the B&B website and I see now
that "Dress Accessories" is different from "Shoes and Pattens"
-that's *patTENs*..
The Textile Society newsletter has it misspelled as 'patterns.'
Deb R

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Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 07:57:26 -0500
Status: RO

If you can stand another copyright question -- I'm working with someone to
publish a small booklet on 18th c. costume, and would like to have a couple
of paintings redrawn for the book.  We're not using the original paintings,
so I figured we'd be ok.  The paintings in question all date from the 18th
century.

-- Does anyone know of any reasons we _can't_ use redrawn versions of these
paintings?  My impression was that the redrawings are the artistic
creations of the artist who does the redrawings, and no permission is
required, since the original paintings were created 200+ years ago.

-- If we used images the original paintings, would we need to ask
permission of the museums that own them, or not?  Have they passed into the
public domain?  My impression is that we _would_ need to ask permission of
the museums, and/or pay a fee.

-- Mara



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Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 09:01:26 -0800
Status: RO



Kevin + Mara Riley wrote:

> If you can stand another copyright question -- I'm working with someone to
> publish a small booklet on 18th c. costume, and would like to have a couple
> of paintings redrawn for the book.  We're not using the original paintings,
> so I figured we'd be ok.  The paintings in question all date from the 18th
> century.
>
> -- Does anyone know of any reasons we _can't_ use redrawn versions of these
> paintings?  My impression was that the redrawings are the artistic
> creations of the artist who does the redrawings, and no permission is
> required, since the original paintings were created 200+ years ago.

Yes, the redrawings are the artistic creations of the artist who does the
redrawings.

>
>
> -- If we used images the original paintings, would we need to ask
> permission of the museums that own them, or not?  Have they passed into the
> public domain?  My impression is that we _would_ need to ask permission of
> the museums, and/or pay a fee.
>

If you are reproducing the museum's photographs of their paintings,  these are
covered by modern copyright.  So yes, the museum's permission (or the
permission of whoever holds the copyright)  is necessary.

If you are redrawing from those photos, permission is not necessary.

Fran


---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance


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Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 17:15:19 -0000
Status: RO

On 5 Mar 2002 at 1:41, martyr@gti.net wrote:
> Also, has anyone ever ordered shoes from
> Plantagenet Shoes? They're in the UK & I live in the US,
> but I'm willing to pay extra for shipping if the shoes' quality is
> better.

I've seen them at shows: they apear to be good quality shoes, but I'm not qualified to 
comment on how authentic they are.



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Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 21:23:03 +0100
Status: RO

Hi
For Italian mid 18th. century clothes, there are some catalogs from
"Galleria Del Costume", Florence Italy. I have 3 catalogs but i know
there are more. They start at the beginning of 18th century and goes on
to present time. There are fine photo,s of real garments in them.

Bjarne

Elizabeth Lear wrote:

> Can anyone point me to some good references for Spanish and Italian
> clothing (male & female) of the mid-18th C?
>
> Thanks,
>                                         ...eliz
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 17:14:33 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


I just got a birthday box from my parents.

It contained both "Shoes and Pattens" and "Stepping Through Time."

yay!

Emma

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From: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eliz. corset question
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Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 18:14:13 -0500
Status: RO

At 10:52 PM 3/5/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>It sounds like she needs something that will keep the corset sitting where
>it is supposed to. I do not have this problem, as I am quite hourglass
>shaped and the corset stays just fine :-)
>
>Any hints, tips, instructions, details that we can use to draft up a corset
>that will work for her? Thanks!

Aside from shortening it just a bit (I've found that when I fit a corset, I
need to pay close attention to the fit over the hips, and often wind up
shortening the cardboard mockups in this area), maybe she could fasten her
petticoats to the corset tabs (i.e., put eyelets in the tabs and lace the
petticoat waistband to the corset) for some additional weight to help hold
it down.  But I'd try fitting it better over the hips first.

Regards,
Mara
Kevin + Mara Riley

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] copyright -- use of images
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Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 18:34:06 -0500
Status: RO

At 09:01 AM 3/9/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>If you are reproducing the museum's photographs of their paintings,  these
are
>covered by modern copyright.  So yes, the museum's permission (or the
>permission of whoever holds the copyright)  is necessary.
>
>If you are redrawing from those photos, permission is not necessary.
>
>Fran

Thanks, Fran!  That's more or less what I figured.  Good to have it confirmed.

Regards,
Mara
Kevin + Mara Riley

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From: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Histoic Footwear Makers
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Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 18:35:07 -0500
Status: RO

At 01:41 AM 3/5/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi People,
>I'm in need of some suggestions-
>I want to have some nice18th century style
>mules/shoes made for myself. I have no experience
>ordering custome made shoes.
>I have found several web sites with what appear to be
>beautiful period footwear.
>Does anybody have any recommendations or suggestions on
>historic footwear makers ?
>Also, has anyone ever ordered shoes from
>Plantagenet Shoes? They're in the UK & I live in the US,
>but I'm willing to pay extra for shipping if the shoes' quality is
>better.
>Any input?
>Lisa R.

Could you post some of the URLs to these cordwainers?  I've seen Sarah
Juniper's new site, but would love to see others, as well.

Regards,
Mara
Kevin + Mara Riley

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress Accessories will be out in July
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Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 16:49:56 +0000
Status: RO

Yes. Completely different book.

				Arlys

On Fri, 08 Mar 2002 23:19:42 -0500 martyr@gti.net writes:
> In the Textile Society newsletter there is a short brief about this 
> book,
> 
> except the title is different:
> "Shoes & Patterns: Finds from Medieval Excavations in London,"
> by Francis Grew, Margrethe DeNeergarad & Susan Mitford.
> 152 pages, 27 b/w ill. $45+ ship
> 
> Is this a different book from "Dress Accessories"?
> Deb R
> 
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> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 20:51:04 -0700
Status: RO

And all the other good stuff that goes with it, too. <g>
Hi, everybody.  I pretty much know "diddly" about 18th century
costuming, but I'm learning....taking classes through Penny's website.
One class I'm going to be taking later this spring is from JP Ryan,
who's teaching us how to make caraco jackets.  It sounds as if there's a
wide range of fabric choices, depending on how "formal" your outfit it,
but I'm afraid of picking the exactly *wrong* thing to make the jacket,
petticoats, etc. out of.  Has anyone out there got any ideas about what
I really need to stay clear of, and what might really work? I haven't
seen any reference to napped fabrics, so I assume they're out? but what
silk types/weaves/weights? ditto, cottons and wools? What about colors?
are there any "close enough" furnishing fabrics? Are some stripes okay,
and others not? all that sort of stuff.....
Any assistance would be *much* appreciated....my historical costuming
experience is pretty solidly pre-17th century, so I'm afraid my fabric
tastes/choices might be inappropriately influenced for a later time
period.
Thanks in advance,
Sue
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Subject: [h-cost] star shapes --
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Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 21:05:56 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO



I know there was some discussion of this last
September, but I just found this illustraded "how to 
cut a five pointed star shape" and I thought others might
appreciate it too!

http://www.dltk-kids.com/usa/fold_and_cut_star_shape.htm

.heather.


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 >
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Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 21:03:51 -0800
Status: RO

Victorian, yes.  Regency, not quite.  Regency ones tend to have paisley 
borders on plain middles, where later ones tend to be allover/solid 
paisleys.  OTOH, gaga!

>I was considering bidding on this item, but really can't justify the
>expense at the moment.  It's still a good deal -- $69.00 (at present).  It
>looks like it'd be appropriate for a Regency impression:
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=704255342


Kayta
    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 09:07:58 +0100
Status: RO

:-D

It is ofcourse in period style.
It's in16th century style...
I have some pictures of work in progress on the internet.
But if you want to see the real pictures you have to wait untill after
3,4 and 5 Mai.
We are still working hard on our kostumes.
I hope I will finish my dress by the end of the week.
But I also have to make the flowergirl dress and the ringbearers
costume.
There going to be the small versions of us ;-)
The costume of my oon to be husband is getting very beatifull.
He does all the embroidery and I help him with the sewing.

Here is the link for the pictures
http://members2.photofun.com/Deredere-Galbraith/16th_century_wedding

Greetings,
        Deredere

Teddy wrote:

> > Mmm....
> > I am working too hard on my wedding dress.....
> > Yes, I ment dying.
>
> Oooh!  Wedding-dress.... do tell, do tell. Is it a period style or
> modern?
>
> Or are you keeping it secret until the big day?
>
> Teddy
> (Librarians are *allowed* to be nosey and to gossip - it's known as
> practising our information gathering and dissemination skills)
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] (Fabric question) weddingpictures
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Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 05:57:41 -0500
Status: RO

>
>It is ofcourse in period style.
>It's in16th century style...
>I have some pictures of work in progress on the internet.


Lovely, lovely, lovely!
Brava!

Sheila Beardslee Bosworth      sheilabb@earthlink.net

Editor, Boston Early Music News
Deadline March. 28 for April 15  issue
   for events April 15-May 31, 2002
 http://www.earlymusicboston.com
    /bemn   for CALENDAR
    /Pavane  for Pavane Renaissance Dance Ensemble
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29 Main Street, Acton MA 01720-3505
VOX  978/263.9926      FAX  978/263.2366




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Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume digest, Vol 1 #780 - 2 msgs
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Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 09:27:21 -0600
Status: RO


----- Original Message -----
| Kevin + Mara Riley wrote:
|
| > If you can stand another copyright question -- I'm working with
someone to
| > publish a small booklet on 18th c. costume, and would like to have
a couple
| > of paintings redrawn for the book.  We're not using the original
paintings,
| > so I figured we'd be ok.  The paintings in question all date from
the 18th
| > century.
| >
| > -- Does anyone know of any reasons we _can't_ use redrawn versions
of these
| > paintings?  My impression was that the redrawings are the artistic
| > creations of the artist who does the redrawings, and no permission
is
| > required, since the original paintings were created 200+ years
ago.
|
| Yes, the redrawings are the artistic creations of the artist who
does the
| redrawings.
|
| > -- If we used images the original paintings, would we need to ask
| > permission of the museums that own them, or not?  Have they passed
into the
| > public domain?  My impression is that we _would_ need to ask
permission of
| > the museums, and/or pay a fee.
| >
|
| If you are reproducing the museum's photographs of their paintings,
these are
| covered by modern copyright.  So yes, the museum's permission (or
the
| permission of whoever holds the copyright)  is necessary.
|
| If you are redrawing from those photos, permission is not necessary.
|
| Fran

This can get pretty hairy though. So, fair warning - the only persons
who can make a legal judgement on copyright issues that hit a grey
area like that last (redrawing from museum photos) are judges.

As an example I encountered, I wanted to use a choice among two or
three Kandinsky works on a webpage I was creating for an event in
which the internationally-known Kandinsky Trio was performing - for
educational purposes at a secondary educational institution.  There's
a clause in the Copyright Law allowing among other things a single
image from a work to be copied for purely educational purposes, but
only a judge can determine whether or not the usage fulfills the
"educational" requirement, and this was a performance, albeit paid for
via student fees. In order to assure that I wasn't breaking copyright
on behalf of the University, I contacted the current owners of the
images to see if they would allow it - and they would, if we paid them
a hefty fee (this was an agency in NYC), per image use. I had a
six-figure budget to work with, and the fee would have completely
sapped it, for one event in a calendar full of more. The artwork
itself was old enough to be outside the current copyright laws, but
the agency owned the rights to all the images of the works that I knew
of, at that point - once Copyright Law came into effect, these rights
had been filed/purchased/reserved by his estate, and then again as all
of that was sold to various entities with each piece sold from the
estate. I judged it not worth further effort (it was just a web page
for a finite event), and ended up using a common graphics program to
make an image after the style of Kandinsky's Improvisation No. 32.

If there was this much hoopla needed with an educational institute's
usage of an image of an artwork (and the Trio was closely associated
with the agency who owned the rights to the images I was trying to
choose among, to boot, with a good relationship with them), I strongly
recommend that if you work from an image you have not yourself made
for a book which you hope to *sell,* you at least consult with a
lawyer or judge experienced in copyright law.

Margaret Northwode
"Douce et innocent à l'extérieur, mauvaise et croquante à
l'intérieur."

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Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 12:16:32 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Sun, 10 Mar 2002, Heather McCafferty 2 wrote:

> This can get pretty hairy though. So, fair warning - the only persons
> who can make a legal judgement on copyright issues that hit a grey
> area like that last (redrawing from museum photos) are judges.

And to add to that: Not all judges share the same opinions, and there's a
lot of grey area in copyright law, particularly when you start dealing
with electronic media. The one time I was involved in a copyright case, it
was part of a larger dispute that was being handled in bankruptcy court.
The judge was a bankruptcy judge, and he didn't know anything about
copyright, and didn't much care. My lawyer, fortunately, had a background
in journalism, and we both had access to my union's lawyers. The lawyers
had an uphill battle convincing the judge there certainly *was* precedent
for our claim, and explaining how copyright worked. Even so, the judge
insisted on making distinctions between who owned the *work* (our writing)
and who owned the disks on which it was stored (the company that never
paid us for the writing, but asserted ownership and sold it anyway)!

Fortunately we won, but I have known of other cases in which the judge in
charge made decisions on what made sense to him, which may not match what
you would normally expect from people who are well-versed in copyright
law. Yes, you can appeal, but that takes money. When it looked like we
would lose our case, our lawyer pointed out that we could appeal based on
the fact that the judge would have clearly misinterpreted copyright law.
But since the company we were suing was already bankrupt, the chances of
us ever recovering funds were pretty slim to begin with. (In our case, the
judge determined that we still owned copyright on the work, yet permitted
the company to sell it at a massive profit as part of its assets. When we
threatened further legal action, we ultimately gained a settlement of
about 10 cents on the dollar of the money we were owed.)

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] Silk Connection
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Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 18:14:55 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,
I've been trying to contact Silk Connection to buy some of the silk gauze
and the email keeps bouncing. Does anyone have a clue as to what is
happening with them?
best wishes
Stevie

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question about fabric for 18th c. caraco jacket
  and petticoats
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Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 19:09:44 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, Sue,
What sort of impression are you going for?  My default advice would be to
use linen.  There are probably some furnishing fabrics that could work;
Williamsburg's "Tuckahoe", "Wetherburn", and "Indienne" might work for you:

http://www.williamsburgmarketplace.com/product_line.asp?MGID=25&fromcat=true

The problem with some of the Waverley prints, I'm told, is that the scale
is a little large for 18th c. clothing; but then some 18th c. clothing does
show up with large scale prints (not common, but occasionally done).  I
think the practice of weaving a damask pattern onto striped fabrics is
modern.  Cabbage roses are NOT 18th century - you see a lot of 1970s
colonial revival costumes made with the stuff.  Toile prints seem to have
been reserved for upholstery, not used for clothing.

I found some yummy textiles here:
http://www.housefabrics.com/fabric1.htm
But you'd want to look through a couple of books on 18th c. textiles before
ordering... Some of the plain stripes look ok to me.
I've got a copy of Florence Montgomery's _Textiles in America_ on loan from
a friend, but that's out of print and VERY expensive.  I heard a rumor that
it might get reprinted... but in the meantime, see if your library can find
it for you.  Another good book is Barbara Johnson's album (I forget the
exact title) -- a scrapbook that an 18th c. lady kept of all the fabrics
she bought from her teens through her old age.  

Best of all, this site has matelasse, which is fabric woven to imitate
quilting, invented ca. 1763.  So for those of you who've been lusting after
a quilted petticoat, but don't have the time to make one -- this is a
definite option!

Cheers,
Mara

At 08:51 PM 3/9/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>And all the other good stuff that goes with it, too. <g>
>Hi, everybody.  I pretty much know "diddly" about 18th century
>costuming, but I'm learning....taking classes through Penny's website.
>One class I'm going to be taking later this spring is from JP Ryan,
>who's teaching us how to make caraco jackets.  It sounds as if there's a
>wide range of fabric choices, depending on how "formal" your outfit it,
>but I'm afraid of picking the exactly *wrong* thing to make the jacket,
>petticoats, etc. out of.  Has anyone out there got any ideas about what
>I really need to stay clear of, and what might really work? I haven't
>seen any reference to napped fabrics, so I assume they're out? but what
>silk types/weaves/weights? ditto, cottons and wools? What about colors?
>are there any "close enough" furnishing fabrics? Are some stripes okay,
>and others not? all that sort of stuff.....
>Any assistance would be *much* appreciated....my historical costuming
>experience is pretty solidly pre-17th century, so I'm afraid my fabric
>tastes/choices might be inappropriately influenced for a later time
>period.
>Thanks in advance,
>Sue

Kevin + Mara Riley

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Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 19:16:55 -0500
Status: RO

At 08:51 PM 3/9/2002 -0700, you wrote:
> I haven't
>seen any reference to napped fabrics, so I assume they're out? but what
>silk types/weaves/weights? ditto, cottons and wools? What about colors?
>are there any "close enough" furnishing fabrics? Are some stripes okay,
>and others not? all that sort of stuff.....

Forgot to answer some of these issues...
Janice Ryan said, at a talk I attended a while back, that cotton velvet is
an acceptable compromise for 18th c. costume, but I don't think I'd use it
for a caracao -- more for a riding habit, I think.
Plain wool would be fine for a working woman's caracao.
Modern cotton broadcloth is probably too thin.
Any colors you could get in the 17th century were also obtainable in the
18th <g>.
Graduated stripes are not ok; and stripes that don't mirror-repeat (i.e.,
stripes that go "blue green yellow blue green yellow") generally aren't
appropriate.
I think that damask might be a bit too fancy for a caracao jacket, but am
not really certain...

If you want to do something really different, Silk Road Fabrics has some
ikat cottons that would be appropriate.  These were called "clouded"
fabrics in the 18th century, and both silk and cotton clouded fabrics have
shown up in period references.  I'd love to see an 18th c. gown made from
this stuff, just to show something that people just don't think of as 18th
century!

http://www.srfabrics.com/cottons/ikat3.html
Swatch 120, in particular, looks good to me...

-- Mara 

Kevin + Mara Riley

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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 01:34:12 -0500
Status: RO

This is Plantagenet Shoes URL:
http://www.plantagenetshoes.freeserve.co.uk/

>Could you post some of the URLs to these cordwainers?  I've seen Sarah
>Juniper's new site, but would love to see others, as well.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Histoic Footwear Makers
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 10:20:02 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> On 5 Mar 2002 at 1:41, martyr@gti.net wrote:
> > Also, has anyone ever ordered shoes from
> > Plantagenet Shoes? They're in the UK & I live in the US,
> > but I'm willing to pay extra for shipping if the shoes' quality is
> > better.

They made my bucket top (17th cnetury boots) and I'm extremely 
happy with them.  Not only are they good quality,  comfortable and 
fit perfectly, but they look great and only cost a little more than the 
low-heeled "off the peg" ones that lots of 17th century traders sell.... 
on the other hand, Morgan measured my feet himself, i have no 
experience of mail ordering stuff from them.

Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] (Fabric question) weddingpictures
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 10:34:48 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Hi  Deredere,  

> It is ofcourse in period style.
> It's in16th century style...
> I have some pictures of work in progress on the internet.
> 
> Here is the link for the pictures
> http://members2.photofun.com/Deredere-Galbraith/16th_century_wedding

Oh wow!  That is going to be *so* beautiful.  And i love the choice 
of hairstyle and veil too.  It looks lovely.

I'll look forward to seeing pictures of the whole wedding party.

Thanks for sharing

Teddy
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 05:56:46 -0500
Status: RO

Well, I didn't find a whole lot of other cordwainers on the web.
What I would like are some customized poulaines.
If you were extremely happy with his work, I'm satisfied
he knows what he's doing. I could trace my own foot & send
it to him.
Thanks Teddy!
Lisa

> They made my bucket top (17th century boots) and I'm extremely
> happy with them.

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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 11:42:57 -0000
Status: RO

Teddy wrote:

> Oh wow!  That is going to be *so* beautiful.  And i love the choice
> of hairstyle and veil too.  It looks lovely.

and Teddy is always right!

But I'm not familiar with the portrait inspiring the gown; have I missed the
attribution?


> I'll look forward to seeing pictures of the whole wedding party.

As do I...

congratulations!

Stevie

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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 05:28:21 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

> But I'm not familiar with the portrait inspiring the gown; have I
> missed the
> attribution?

It's Isabella of Portugal, circa 1535 by Titian. According to 20,000
Years of Fashion, the painting is in the Prado in Madrid.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: attribution was:  (Fabric question) weddingpictures
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 14:06:13 -0000
Status: RO

Kate wrote:


> > But I'm not familiar with the portrait inspiring the gown; have I
> > missed the
> > attribution?
> 
> It's Isabella of Portugal, circa 1535 by Titian. According to 20,000
> Years of Fashion, the painting is in the Prado in Madrid.

It is indeed, at

http://www.spanisharts.com/prado/tiziano/isabel.htm

which dates the painting around 1548.

Many thanks 

best wishes

Stevie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] (Fabric question) weddingpictures
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 07:16:14 -0700
Status: RO

IIRC [weren't there two?] the first one (garnet-colored gown) is a
Titian portrait of Isabella of Spain? mid-16th c.? [a friend of mine
also used this one for her wedding dress <g>].  The second portrait is
one of the Bronzino portraits of Eleanor of Toledo.
--Sue

Stevie Gamble wrote:
> 
> Teddy wrote:
> 
> > Oh wow!  That is going to be *so* beautiful.  And i love the choice
> > of hairstyle and veil too.  It looks lovely.
> 
> and Teddy is always right!
> 
> But I'm not familiar with the portrait inspiring the gown; have I missed the
> attribution?
> 
> > I'll look forward to seeing pictures of the whole wedding party.
> 
> As do I...
> 
> congratulations!
> 
> Stevie
> 
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 08:09:57 -0600
Status: RO

I went to visit Sarah Juniper's site again, and while I love the shoes,
I can't find any prices.  In addition, it seems the only way to contact
her is with an overseas phone call or fax.  Am I missing the handy email
address and price list, or are they not there?

Melanie Schuessler
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From: "Saragrace knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?-why not canvas?
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 07:28:18 -0700
Status: RO

Any reason you want to stick with coutil?  I have used cotton canvas or
denim as an interlining (I know I am assuming that is what you are using it
for) and had great results.  It is cheap and readily available.

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Mar 11 11:22:55 2002
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?-why not canvas?
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 07:06:20 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Yes, I've used denim and whatever I could find, but I think that
coutil looks nicer. The last corset that I lined with denim scraps
looked...well, it looked like I lined it with denim scraps. I just
wish I didn't have to pay $12/yd +shipping for coutil.

--- Saragrace knauf <saragrace@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Any reason you want to stick with coutil?  I have used cotton
> canvas or
> denim as an interlining (I know I am assuming that is what you are
> using it
> for) and had great results.  It is cheap and readily available.
> 
> _______________________________________________
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=====
Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
Check out my new EBay store: http://www.ebaystores.com/darkthreadsdesigns
My personal page: http://www.geocities.com/mirv_sewing/
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Adventure can be real happiness.--Fortune Cookie

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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 07:35:03 -0800
Status: RO

Hi all, 

Deb R wrote:
<<In the Textile Society newsletter there is a short brief about this
book,

except the title is different:
"Shoes & Patterns: Finds from Medieval Excavations in London,"
by Francis Grew, Margrethe DeNeergarad & Susan Mitford.
152 pages, 27 b/w ill. $45+ ship

Is this a different book from "Dress Accessories"?>>

Yes, it is.  Dress Accessories focuses on rings, brooches, purses and
many other kinds of dress accessories, rather than the shoes, boots and
pattens covered in the Shoes and Pattens book.

Best regards,

Colleen


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historic Footwear Makers
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 10:57:01 EST
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It will take more than a tracing around your foot.  I have been making some 
soft suede medieval shoes and now I know that you need more measurements than 
that.  For a minimum you need to measure across your foot at the instep, mark 
the place you measured on the tracing and give the length.  He will probably 
need more than that for firmer shoes.

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>It will take more than a tracing around your foot. &nbsp;I have been making some soft suede medieval shoes and now I know that you need more measurements than that. &nbsp;For a minimum you need to measure across your foot at the instep, mark the place you measured on the tracing and give the length. &nbsp;He will probably need more than that for firmer shoes.
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historic Footwear Makers
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 15:57:59 +0000
Status: RO

I wondered about the prices too, but noticed that she says she has no
e-mail.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> melanie@faucet.net 03/11/02 02:09pm >>>
I went to visit Sarah Juniper's site again, and while I love the
shoes,
I can't find any prices.  In addition, it seems the only way to
contact
her is with an overseas phone call or fax.  Am I missing the handy
email
address and price list, or are they not there?

Melanie Schuessler
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Mar 11 12:44:36 2002
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From: "Cynthia Abel" <brujne@bluejay.creighton.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns--Butterrick too
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 10:22:45 -0600
Status: RO

I was in my local JoAnns yesterday and the new Simplicity pattern book is
out. I don't recall the numbers on these, but there is an early-mid 1860's
dress with undersleeves and optional apron, corset(two variations--one has
bust gussets; one without)with chemise, and a pattern just for the early to
mid '60's hoopskirt with back interest. JoAnns will have the Simplicity
patterns all at $1.99 next Sat and Sunday. The same person that did the
1850's dress, underpinnings and hoopskirt pattern did this trio too.  I
think the pattern # are 7412, 7415, and 7416. Sleeves and bodice look pretty
authentic in cut, adjusted to the modern figure. What is nice to see is that
one of the dress models is not a size two and carries the large pink plaid
gown with 30+ yards of black braid/ribbon trim off much more successfully
than a very delicately framed model would. Women who recalled later wearing
crinolines in their younger years, remembered fondly how cool they felt in
summer, that they had more freedom of movement and the colorful and often
ornately decorated stockings and footwear that they could choose males a
glimpse of with the correct dip of the crins.

Joanns also has a 2-week sale on their Butterrick patterns. I picked up 7217
and 7218, part of their "Making History" costume series. One is a basic
c1897-1898  skirt with variations and other is a coordinating "waist"(of
course, they call it a blouse. I dated both to about 1897-98 based on the
cut of the skirt(properly gored)and the slightly pouter-pigeon front of the
blouse and reduction of the extreme leg of mutton sleeves from a couple of
years earlier.
Cindy Abel


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historic Footwear Makers
From: Jane Williams <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 15:44:32 +0000
Status: RO

Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote :

> I went to visit Sarah Juniper's site again, and while I love the shoes,
> I can't find any prices.  In addition, it seems the only way to contact
> her is with an overseas phone call or fax.  Am I missing the handy email
> address and price list, or are they not there?

The front page says "(sorry I don't have e-mail)", so I don't think you're missing that.

And I can't find any prices, either, other than the mention of deposits on the order form.

Google searching....

A review on an entirely different page says "@ about 150 Euro"

Someone mentions Sarah as being one of the most affordable shoemakers.

But that's about it, I'm afraid. No specific prices. Sounds like you're down to phone, fax, or letter.



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From: "Parsla Liepa" <pliepa@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject:  Women who Ruled art exhibit (was Re: [h-cost] (Fabric question) weddingpictures
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 14:52:01 -0500
Status: RO


>one of the Bronzino portraits of Eleanor of Toledo.

For those in the South-eastern Michigan area, there is currently an exhibit 
at the University of Michigan Art Museum on "Women who Ruled: Queens, 
Goddesses, Amazons, 1500-1650."   It will be in Ann Arbor until early May, 
and then it will travel.

http://www.umich.edu/~umma/women/

There's the aforementioned Eleanora of Toledo portrait there, an Elizabeth I 
by George Gower, a Venus by Guido Reni, and a Judith by Carravaggio, among 
lots of others.  Lots of etchings, especially.

The exhibit features women who were politically powerful (Elizabeth, a 
couple of the d'Medicis, Eleanora of Toledo, etc), as well as other women 
who were powerful and made an impact-- Joan of Arc, Judith, Amazons, Helen 
of Troy, Eve, etc -- and the way they portrayed in the 15th-16th centuries.

I had a great time yesterday afternoon, having gone in as soon as the 
exhibit opened and then had to be kicked out when the museum closed.

Parsla


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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 19:44:03 -0500
Status: RO

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
Could I just send him a pair of my own well-fitted shoes?
<br>Deb
<br>&nbsp;
<blockquote TYPE=CITE><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>It will
take more than a tracing around your foot.&nbsp; I have been making some
soft suede medieval shoes and now I know that you need more measurements
than that.&nbsp; For a minimum you need to measure across your foot at
the instep, mark the place you measured on the tracing and give the length.&nbsp;
He will probably need more than that for firmer shoes.</font></font></blockquote>
</html>

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Subject: [h-cost] Thoughts on Attifet/Caul/Coif-References
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 19:54:51 -0700
Status: RO

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Anyone know where I can find this pic?I am about ready to tackle an Attifet.
I have Margo's pattern, but am interested in any references you know of.  A
search of the Archives resulted in From the Neck Up and an Elizabethan
Costuming books I"ve not heard of till now - Hill & Bucknell and Winter .

I was surprised that they are not mentioned in QEWU and that made me start
to wonder if she doesn't use that name.  What is the differece between a
caul/coif  (just that the former has a band and the latter is more like a
biggens and that neither are wired?) attifet?  There are various headdresses
that look like they are wired, and then of course the veils that have that
heart shape but come out a bit further from the head.

Anyway, just interested in anyone's thoughts and experiences building an
Attifet.

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<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>Anyone know where I can find this pic?</TITLE>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dus-ascii">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2713.1100" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV><FONT face=3DBatang color=3D#800000 size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D140424702-12032002>I am=20
about ready to tackle an Attifet.&nbsp; I have Margo's pattern, but am=20
interested in any references you know of.&nbsp; A search of the Archives =

resulted in From the Neck Up and an Elizabethan Costuming books I"ve not =
heard=20
of till now <FONT face=3D"Times New Roman" color=3D#4f0000 size=3D3>- =
</FONT><FONT=20
face=3D"Times New Roman" color=3D#4f0000 size=3D3>Hill &amp; Bucknell =
and Winter=20
.</FONT></SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman" color=3D#4f0000 size=3D3><SPAN=20
class=3D140424702-12032002></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman" color=3D#4f0000 size=3D3><SPAN=20
class=3D140424702-12032002>I was surprised that they are not mentioned =
in QEWU and=20
that made me start to wonder if she doesn't use that name.&nbsp; What is =
the=20
differece between a caul/coif&nbsp; (just that the former has a band and =
the=20
latter is more like a biggens and that neither are =
wired?)&nbsp;attifet?&nbsp;=20
There are various headdresses that look like they are wired, and then of =
course=20
the veils that have that heart shape but come out a bit further from the =

head.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman" color=3D#4f0000 size=3D3><SPAN=20
class=3D140424702-12032002></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman" color=3D#4f0000 size=3D3><SPAN=20
class=3D140424702-12032002>Anyway, just interested in anyone's thoughts =
and=20
experiences building an Attifet.</SPAN></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Mar 11 23:50:28 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Thoughts on Attifet/Caul/Coif-References
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 21:40:14 -0600
Status: RO

> Saragrace knauf wrote:
> 
> I am about ready to tackle an Attifet.  I have Margo's pattern, but am
> interested in any references you know of.  A search of the Archives
> resulted in From the Neck Up and an Elizabethan Costuming books I"ve
> not heard of till now - Hill & Bucknell and Winter .

I can't speculate on whether there was such a thing as an "attifet" made
in the way that these books suggest, but I'd be cautious in taking any
of them as gospel.

If you're going for historic accuracy (or as close as one can get with
no surviving examples), please don't use either Hill & Bucknell or
Winter.  Hill and Bucknell has so many imaginary patterns in it (ie,
patterns that could not possibly work on a 3D body or patterns that have
no historic basis) that I wouldn't want to trust their reconstruction if
they have one.  Winter is a good starting point for RenFaire, but I
wouldn't use it for anything serious.

>From the Neck Up is a _wonderful_ millinery how-to book, but again she's
just guessing the shape to get the look.  I don't think she researched
what that look evolved from and what it turned into to get a sense of
the actual construction.

Melanie Schuessler
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 19:46:48 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


I understand that this book is out of print .. does
anyone have any recommendations on where to find a
copy ?
Thanks
Carol

=====
....you cease to mourn the morning when you celebrate the night .....

"The night summons like an unquenched love, beckoning with the promise of dark desires."

"The only way to get rid of temptation is to give in to it" ... Oscar Wilde

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From: "Chiara" <chiara@io.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 21:52:38 -0600
Status: RO

Amazon.co.uk still had copies last I looked, 85.00 American dollars. It is
no longer out of print, they ran a new batch 2 years ago and started selling
them again last year. A fluke on the part of Amazon.co.uk cause quite a stir
here then. :)

They mispriced the book, which has a base price of 75.00, at 35.00 American
dollars. Unfortunately the artist and former print shop worker in me quickly
picked out that the printing and more importantly the binding was of a
lesser quality than the original print run. But if you want it for the
educational value it is priceless none the less!

Sincerely,
Chiara Francesca
Ansteorra, Steppes, Texas
 º°`°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¤º°`°º¤
----- Original Message -----
From: "carol" <ladynoire1013@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 9:46 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd


>
> I understand that this book is out of print .. does
> anyone have any recommendations on where to find a
> copy ?
> Thanks
> Carol
>
> =====
> ....you cease to mourn the morning when you celebrate the night .....
>
> "The night summons like an unquenched love, beckoning with the promise of
dark desires."
>
> "The only way to get rid of temptation is to give in to it" ... Oscar
Wilde
>
> __________________________________________________
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> Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email!
> http://mail.yahoo.com/
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 22:56:29 -0500
Status: RO

Fred Struthers has it in his winter catalog for $190.00, I think?
His e-mail is: fsbks@mcn.org
Deb R.

>I understand that this book is out of print .. does
>anyone have any recommendations on where to find a
>copy ?

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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 22:15:08 -0600
Status: RO

At 03:44 PM 3/11/2002 +0000, you wrote:
>Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote :
>
> > I went to visit Sarah Juniper's site again, and while I love the shoes,
> > I can't find any prices.  In addition, it seems the only way to contact
> > her is with an overseas phone call or fax.  Am I missing the handy email
> > address and price list, or are they not there?
>
>The front page says "(sorry I don't have e-mail)", so I don't think you're 
>missing that.
>
>And I can't find any prices, either, other than the mention of deposits on 
>the order form.
>
>Google searching....
>
>A review on an entirely different page says "@ about 150 Euro"
>
>Someone mentions Sarah as being one of the most affordable shoemakers.
>
>But that's about it, I'm afraid. No specific prices. Sounds like you're 
>down to phone, fax, or letter.

Um... have you seen this page?  It definitely has prices on it and they 
range from 92 pounds to 448 pounds plus any extras.

http://www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk/shoes.htm

Cheers,
Danielle

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 00:41:07 -0500
Status: RO

At www.poisonpenpress.com  Devra has it listed at $165 US.

She also has an entire page devoted to "costume" books.  Worth a look if
nothing else.


Lyn Greaves
Lady Rosamund d'Alwareton, CM, OTerp, OSalamander

Remember: Amateurs built the ark, but professionals built the Titanic


----- Original Message -----
From: "carol" <ladynoire1013@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 10:46 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd


>
> I understand that this book is out of print .. does
> anyone have any recommendations on where to find a
> copy ?
> Thanks
> Carol
>
> =====
> ....you cease to mourn the morning when you celebrate the night .....
>
> "The night summons like an unquenched love, beckoning with the promise of
dark desires."
>
> "The only way to get rid of temptation is to give in to it" ... Oscar
Wilde
>
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 07:33:37 -0000
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On 11 Mar 2002 at 22:15, Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:
> 
> Um... have you seen this page?  It definitely has prices on it and they 
> range from 92 pounds to 448 pounds plus any extras.
> 
> http://www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk/shoes.htm

How very odd. I wonder why she has two completely different web pages? I was looking 
at:
www.sarahjuniper.co.uk/ 

which has the pictures. Looks like the page with prices has no pictures?



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historic Footwear Makers
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> Well, I didn't find a whole lot of other cordwainers on the web.
> What I would like are some customized poulaines.
> If you were extremely happy with his work, I'm satisfied
> he knows what he's doing. I could trace my own foot & send
> it to him.
> Thanks Teddy!

You're welcome Lisa.  Morgan's work is very good, and I don't think 
I've ever heard any complaints about his footwear in all the yers I've 
been going to events where he trades.

He isn't the cheapest, nor the most expensive and you do get 
quality for the price.

> > They made my bucket top (17th century boots) and I'm extremely
> > happy with them.

Teddy

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?-why not canvas?
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 10:30:28 +0000 (GMT)
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> Yes, I've used denim and whatever I could find, but I think that
> coutil looks nicer. The last corset that I lined with denim scraps
> looked...well, it looked like I lined it with denim scraps. I just
> wish I didn't have to pay $12/yd +shipping for coutil. 

Erm... I'd have thought that anyone close enough to see the 
*inside* of your corset would *not* be interested in whether it was 
lined in denim or coutil...  Unless denim lined corsets are, for some 
reason a real turn-off for them..... or something?

Teddy
(probably missing some subtle point here...)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historic Footwear Makers
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> Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote :
> 
> > I went to visit Sarah Juniper's site again, and while I love the
> > shoes, I can't find any prices. 

> And I can't find any prices, either, other than the mention of
> deposits on the order form.

Hmmm... I'll have a look at home and see if I still have her pricelist 
form the Cressing Temple traders faire last May... prices may have 
gone up since then but it'd be an indication.... if I can find it...<g>

Teddy

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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 13:06:35 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

What about Kevin Garlick.  He made some Tudor shoes for me and they are so comfortable.  We sorted
it all out by post and they fit perfectly.  Kevin sends out very specific instructions on how to
measure your feet.  However he does usually have a long waiting list (mind you he did mine for me
quite quckly).

Kevin Garlick
21 South Street
Ventnor
England
PO38 1NG
Tel : 01983-854753
Fax : 01983-854753

Try emailing kmgarlick@lineone.net I found it on a living history forum
(http://www.livinghistory.co.uk/1700-1800/forum/xw_160.html) so it might not be right.

Rachel 

 --- Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote: > 
> > Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote :
> > 
> > > I went to visit Sarah Juniper's site again, and while I love the
> > > shoes, I can't find any prices. 
> 
> > And I can't find any prices, either, other than the mention of
> > deposits on the order form.
> 
> Hmmm... I'll have a look at home and see if I still have her pricelist 
> form the Cressing Temple traders faire last May... prices may have 
> gone up since then but it'd be an indication.... if I can find it...<g>
> 
> Teddy
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 08:10:18 -0600
Status: RO

Thanks to all who offered info on Sarah Juniper's prices.  I now have at
least an idea of how much they would be.  Now to gather money....anyone
have a money tree?

Melanie
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 14:41:50 GMT
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Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote :

> Thanks to all who offered info on Sarah Juniper's prices.  I now have at
> least an idea of how much they would be.  Now to gather money....anyone
> have a money tree?


http://shop.store.yahoo.com/twinleafcatalogue/631025.html

Yours for $2.25





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Subject: Re: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?-why not canvas?
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 2002 10:30:28 am"
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 07:02:05 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I don't know about the original poster, but with the stress levels
my bust can create in a corset, something that has even a little bit of streth
like denim just doesn't look nearly as good and solid as coutil.  
wearing denim, I always feeling like I'm listing to one side.. ;)

.heather.

> 
> > Yes, I've used denim and whatever I could find, but I think that
> > coutil looks nicer. The last corset that I lined with denim scraps
> > looked...well, it looked like I lined it with denim scraps. I just
> > wish I didn't have to pay $12/yd +shipping for coutil. 
> 
> Erm... I'd have thought that anyone close enough to see the 
> *inside* of your corset would *not* be interested in whether it was 
> lined in denim or coutil...  Unless denim lined corsets are, for some 
> reason a real turn-off for them..... or something?
> 
> Teddy
> (probably missing some subtle point here...)
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historic Footwear Makers
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 15:05:40 +0000 (GMT)
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> Thanks to all who offered info on Sarah Juniper's prices.  I now have
> at least an idea of how much they would be.  Now to gather
> money....anyone have a money tree?
> 

Hey Melanie, 

How about picking a tree, and charging people for watching when 
you climb it in full farthingale looking for money to gather?

Of course, they'd be more likely to give money to a sponsored 
Elizabethan tree-climb if it were for a charity.... I know *we* would 
consider period shoes for a costumer as a Good Cause, but most 
of your paying public might have different ideas....<G>

Teddy

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--part1_17b.4f0afdd.29bf79f4_boundary
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       I just got a copy from Amazon.co.uk.  I had to wait almost two months, 
but it finally arrived.  Amazon.com can get it too, but it costs a lot more 
in spite of the heavy cost of shipping from England.

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



--part1_17b.4f0afdd.29bf79f4_boundary
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I just got a copy from Amazon.co.uk. &nbsp;I had to wait almost two months, but it finally arrived. &nbsp;Amazon.com can get it too, but it costs a lot more in spite of the heavy cost of shipping from England.
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

--part1_17b.4f0afdd.29bf79f4_boundary--
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 08:10:29 -0800
Status: RO

I use Pillow Ticking.  Is that the same as coutil?

Brandy

Subject: Re: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?-why not canvas?


> I don't know about the original poster, but with the stress levels
> my bust can create in a corset, something that has even a little bit of
streth
> like denim just doesn't look nearly as good and solid as coutil.
> wearing denim, I always feeling like I'm listing to one side.. ;)
>
> .heather.



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To: h-costume@indra.com, <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?-why not canvas?
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 10:57:25 -0800
Status: RO



Until recently, I thought "coutile" meant a herringbone twill weave cotton
fabric.  Then I ordered coutile from a supplier and got plain twill, no
herringbone weave.  When I qestioned it, I was told that "coutile" meant
twill, and if I want herringbone I need to ask for it specifically.

I strongly recommend herrringbone coutile for corsetry, as  twill (which
includes denim) will tend to stretch and twist diagonally over time, and
plain weaves such as canvas will stretch in all directions.  Herringbone
coutile has very little stretch, doesn't twist or distort, and is much
thinner than an equivalent strength of canvas or denim.  


Margo
"One Tough Costumer"

Costume Classes in Northern California:  www.margospatterns.com/mayclass.htm

See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eliz. corset question
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 13:14:50 -0600
Status: RO

OK - after checking fit on hips....should we include tabs on this corset, or
would they just create the same problem?

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
Bristol,
BRF FOF

So many books, so little time

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin + Mara Riley" <lindo@radix.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 09, 2002 5:14 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eliz. corset question


> At 10:52 PM 3/5/2002 -0600, you wrote:
> >It sounds like she needs something that will keep the corset sitting
where
> >it is supposed to. I do not have this problem, as I am quite hourglass
> >shaped and the corset stays just fine :-)
> >
> >Any hints, tips, instructions, details that we can use to draft up a
corset
> >that will work for her? Thanks!
>
> Aside from shortening it just a bit (I've found that when I fit a corset,
I
> need to pay close attention to the fit over the hips, and often wind up
> shortening the cardboard mockups in this area), maybe she could fasten her
> petticoats to the corset tabs (i.e., put eyelets in the tabs and lace the
> petticoat waistband to the corset) for some additional weight to help hold
> it down.  But I'd try fitting it better over the hips first.
>
> Regards,
> Mara
> Kevin + Mara Riley
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 22:03:33 -0000
Status: RO

Margo Anderson wrote, of cotton


>Herringbone
> coutile has very little stretch, doesn't twist or distort, and is much
> thinner than an equivalent strength of canvas or denim.

Have you any views on herringbone linen for these purposes? I've recently
acquired large amounts thereof, and after redecorating my living room with
it (trust me- a staple gun is much faster than buckets of paint) I had in
mind numerous jackets, skirts petticoats etc. Corsets would be good too...

best wishes

Stevie

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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 15:59:40 -0700
Status: RO

Would Mistress Rondinella please contact me privately?

Thanks,

MD/Marged
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?-why not canvas?
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 15:23:31 -0800
Status: RO

At 10:03 PM 03/12/2002 -0000, Stevie Gamble wrote:
>Margo Anderson wrote, of cotton
>
>
>>Herringbone
>> coutile has very little stretch, doesn't twist or distort, and is much
>> thinner than an equivalent strength of canvas or denim.
>
>Have you any views on herringbone linen for these purposes? I've recently
>acquired large amounts thereof, 

Aside from being exceedingly jealous, as I've never even seen herringbone
linen, I couldn't say.  It would probably depend on the tightness of the
weave.  


Margo
"One Tough Costumer"

Costume Classes in Northern California:  www.margospatterns.com/mayclass.htm

See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 18:54:20 -0500
Status: RO

Yeah, there's nothing like someone saying they have enough herringbone
linen to cover their walls to really make a girl go completely green
with envy!  Yowza!   Anyway, herringbone linen isn't all that difficult
to obtain, I've even managed to get it at Joann's, believe it or not.
Hmm, upon recollection, that may have been a linen/cotton blend...
still quite nice tho.  My new favorite treasure is a 5 yard piece of
1/8" herringbone linen that I bartered with a friend to get. Very fine,
in a lovely old gold color.  
Probably not good for lining corsets, but very nice for an early period
underdress.

Getting back to the hemp thread of a couple of weeks ago,
www.hemptraders.com  carries a herringbone hemp fabric, along with
several different weights of up to 17 oz canvas.  If you ask, they'll
gladly send swatches.  

Linda

At 10:03 PM 03/12/2002 -0000, Stevie Gamble wrote:
>Margo Anderson wrote, of cotton
>
>
>>Herringbone
>> coutile has very little stretch, doesn't twist or distort, and is
much
>> thinner than an equivalent strength of canvas or denim.
>
>Have you any views on herringbone linen for these purposes? I've
recently
>acquired large amounts thereof, 

Aside from being exceedingly jealous, as I've never even seen
herringbone
linen, I couldn't say.  It would probably depend on the tightness of the
weave.  


Margo
"One Tough Costumer"




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?-why not canvas?
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 19:21:35 -0700
Status: RO

Okay, Margo...spill....who's your source? I've been wanting to try a
corset with coutil.....;-)
--Sue

Margo Anderson wrote:
> 
> Until recently, I thought "coutile" meant a herringbone twill weave cotton
> fabric.  Then I ordered coutile from a supplier and got plain twill, no
> herringbone weave.  When I qestioned it, I was told that "coutile" meant
> twill, and if I want herringbone I need to ask for it specifically.
> 
> I strongly recommend herrringbone coutile for corsetry, as  twill (which
> includes denim) will tend to stretch and twist diagonally over time, and
> plain weaves such as canvas will stretch in all directions.  Herringbone
> coutile has very little stretch, doesn't twist or distort, and is much
> thinner than an equivalent strength of canvas or denim.
> 
> Margo
> "One Tough Costumer"
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Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
> Okay, Margo...spill....who's your source? I've been wanting to try a
> corset with coutil.....;-)

I dunno about Margo, but I buy mine from Lacis in Berkeley.
http://www.lacis.com/

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 20:24:53 -0700
Status: RO

I've done it with all three and had great sucess-no stretching or
distortions in 3 years.  I am very careful to buy all cotton denim or
canvas-they like to slip those blends in.  Of course I bone the S*&$ out of
my corsets though with actual boning casing, bias tape or twill tape
(depending on my mood).  That is just so I can cheat and not have to draw
all those lines and avoids multiple layers of  fabric from shifting.  I
haven't seen any great advantage to the coutil except that I was able to dye
it the color I wanted and therefore didn't use it as an interlining but as
the actual lining.  On the other hand, $12 bucks/yard (And I got at least 2
corsets out of a yard) isn't much to invest in an item which will last a
long time if taken care of.

Cheers, Sg


**I strongly recommend herrringbone coutile for corsetry, as  twill (which
**includes denim) will tend to stretch and twist diagonally over time, and
**plain weaves such as canvas will stretch in all directions.  Herringbone
**coutile has very little stretch, doesn't twist or distort, and is much
**thinner than an equivalent strength of canvas or denim.

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From: Kate <ailithmac@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mistress Rondinella
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 19:34:10 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

So far as I know, Rondi isn't on any of the lists that you posted
this note to. I will be happy to forward it to her, though.

kate

--- Mary Denise Smith <costumemag@costumemag.com> wrote:
> Would Mistress Rondinella please contact me privately?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> MD/Marged
> _______________________________________________
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Sorry to use the list for this, but I need to reach Linda Rice, and the
address I have for her is bouncing. Linda, please contact me directly.
Thanks.

--Robin

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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 23:43:41 -0500
Status: RO

--=====================_258637233==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 07:43 AM 3/12/02 -0700, you wrote:
>On 11 Mar 2002 at 22:15, Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:
> >
> > Um... have you seen this page?  It definitely has prices on it and they
> > range from 92 pounds to 448 pounds plus any extras.
> >
> > http://www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk/shoes.htm
>
>How very odd. I wonder why she has two completely different web pages? I 
>was looking
>at:
>www.sarahjuniper.co.uk/

The page for Ages Of Elegance belongs to a friend of mine, Dawn Wood, and 
it's possible she's either a dealer for Sarah Juniper, or got permission to 
post a current price list.  Either way, write and ask *grin*


Victoria Wickens
Lady Victoria's Castle Closet
http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html
Gallery: http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/castle-creations/


--=====================_258637233==_.ALT
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<html>
At 07:43 AM 3/12/02 -0700, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>On 11 Mar 2002 at 22:15, Danielle
Nunn-Weinberg wrote:<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Um... have you seen this page?&nbsp; It definitely has prices on it
and they <br>
&gt; range from 92 pounds to 448 pounds plus any extras.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt;
<a href="http://www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk/shoes.htm" eudora="autourl">http://www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk/shoes.htm</a><br>
<br>
How very odd. I wonder why she has two completely different web pages? I
was looking <br>
at:<br>
<a href="http://www.sarahjuniper.co.uk/" eudora="autourl">www.sarahjuniper.co.uk/</a>
</blockquote><br>
The page for Ages Of Elegance belongs to a friend of mine, Dawn Wood, and it's possible she's either a dealer for Sarah Juniper, or got permission to post a current price list.&nbsp; Either way, write and ask *grin*<br>
<br>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
Victoria Wickens<br>
Lady Victoria's Castle Closet<br>
<a href="http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html" eudora="autourl">http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.</a><a href="http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html" eudora="autourl">html<br>
</a><font size=4>Gallery: <a href="http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/castle-creations/" eudora="autourl">http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/castle-creations/</a><br>
<br>
</font></html>

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At 07:21 PM 03/12/2002 -0700, Sue Clemenger wrote:
>Okay, Margo...spill....who's your source? I've been wanting to try a
>corset with coutil.....;-)

Why, Granndgarb.com, of course!  

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"

Costume Classes in Northern California:  www.margospatterns.com/mayclass.htm

See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?-why not canvas?
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 23:01:20 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I get mine from greenberg & hammer in NY, It's around $10 a yard if
you buy in ten yard increments.  

Speaking of which, I should order some more.

.heather.


> Okay, Margo...spill....who's your source? I've been wanting to try a
> corset with coutil.....;-)
> --Sue
> 
> Margo Anderson wrote:
> > 
> > Until recently, I thought "coutile" meant a herringbone twill weave cotton
> > fabric.  Then I ordered coutile from a supplier and got plain twill, no
> > herringbone weave.  When I qestioned it, I was told that "coutile" meant
> > twill, and if I want herringbone I need to ask for it specifically.
> > 
> > I strongly recommend herrringbone coutile for corsetry, as  twill (which
> > includes denim) will tend to stretch and twist diagonally over time, and
> > plain weaves such as canvas will stretch in all directions.  Herringbone
> > coutile has very little stretch, doesn't twist or distort, and is much
> > thinner than an equivalent strength of canvas or denim.
> > 
> > Margo
> > "One Tough Costumer"
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 03:54:47 -0500
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Robin,

Linda works at night but I am sure if you wave some fabric outside your
window that she will be there in a minute.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historic Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 12:48 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Linda Rice?


>
> Sorry to use the list for this, but I need to reach Linda Rice, and the
> address I have for her is bouncing. Linda, please contact me directly.
> Thanks.
>
> --Robin
>
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Subject: Re:  [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?-why not canvas?
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> I don't know about the original poster, but with the stress levels my
> bust can create in a corset, something that has even a little bit of
> streth like denim just doesn't look nearly as good and solid as
> coutil. wearing denim, I always feeling like I'm listing to one side..
> ;)

Thanks Heather, that's just the sort of detail I might need when 
making a corset for someone in the future....

Teddy  

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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 08:34:19 -0500
Status: RO

Oh Penny, you know me so well! Thanks for the compliment. <g>

On a side note, Robin says my post to her came in garbled.  Is it like
that for anyone else?  We just got a new computer, and I haven't quite
gotten WindowsXP figured out yet.  I swear it's set to send in text, but
maybe I'm missing a setting someplace. Sorry!

Linda

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com 
[mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] 
On Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
 
Robin,

Linda works at night but I am sure if you wave some fabric outside your
window that she will be there in a minute.

Penny Ladnier




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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 07:40:26 -0700
Status: RO

Yeah, but, Penny....using bait like that might attract the wrong sort,
like me, in addition to Linda....<g>
--sue

Penny Ladnier wrote:
> 
> Robin,
> 
> Linda works at night but I am sure if you wave some fabric outside your
> window that she will be there in a minute.
> 
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> To: "Historic Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 12:48 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Linda Rice?
> 
> >
> > Sorry to use the list for this, but I need to reach Linda Rice, and the
> > address I have for her is bouncing. Linda, please contact me directly.
> > Thanks.
> >
> > --Robin
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From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?-why not canvas?
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 09:43:16 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO


$10-15 dollars a yard is a small price to pay when a corset takes so
little yardage.  Unfortunately no one seems to have as heavy a coutil as
I could find 5-6 years ago.  Sigh.

I do have a funny story about ising a plain twill for a corset.  I think
it was drill (a less expensive alternative, also available from G&H, but
works better if self-lined).

A friend bought a ready-made corset from a civil war sutler.  It was
unlined and made from twilled cloth.  It was made well but no matter
what she did when she put it on it would twist and sit diagonally on her
body (didn't help that it had hook instead of a busk)rz
**
pulling on the diagonal.  If it had been self lined
it would have been stabilized.  I wonder if extra boning would hav also
solved the problem.  It was funny when she first put it on and before we
figured out what was happening.

On Tue, 12 Mar 2002, Heather Meadows wrote:

>I get mine from greenberg & hammer in NY, It's around $10 a yard if
>you buy in ten yard increments.
>
>Speaking of which, I should order some more.
>
>.heather.
>
>
>> Okay, Margo...spill....who's your source? I've been wanting to try a
>> corset with coutil.....;-)
>> --Sue
>>
>> Margo Anderson wrote:
>> >
>> > Until recently, I thought "coutile" meant a herringbone twill weave cotton
>> > fabric.  Then I ordered coutile from a supplier and got plain twill, no
>> > herringbone weave.  When I qestioned it, I was told that "coutile" meant
>> > twill, and if I want herringbone I need to ask for it specifically.
>> >
>> > I strongly recommend herrringbone coutile for corsetry, as  twill (which
>> > includes denim) will tend to stretch and twist diagonally over time, and
>> > plain weaves such as canvas will stretch in all directions.  Herringbone
>> > coutile has very little stretch, doesn't twist or distort, and is much
>> > thinner than an equivalent strength of canvas or denim.
>> >
>> > Margo
>> > "One Tough Costumer"
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] better sources for corset couti
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 09:50:30 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO


I hit something that sent this message too soon.  Here goes again.

$10-15 dollars a yard seems to be a small price to pay when a corset
takes so little yardage.  Unfortunately no one seems to have as stiff a
coutil as I could find 5-6 years ago.  Sigh.

I do have a funny story about using a plain twill for a corset.  I think
it was drill (a less expensive alternative, also available from G&H, but
works better if self-lined).

A friend bought a ready-made corset from a civil war sutler.  It was
unlined and made from twilled cloth.  It was made well but no matter
what she did when she put it on it would twist and sit diagonally on her
body (didn't help that it had hook instead of a busk) it was pulling on
the diagonal.  If it had been self lined it would have been stabilized.
I wonder if extra boning casings would have also solved the problem.
It was funny when she first put it on and before we figured out what was
happening.  We thought the dressmaker might have been on drugs :~).

I can sometimes find good twilled cottons in a good upholstery/drapery
department.

Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Mar 13 12:46:19 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] URL: selection of Renaissance sculpture portraits, Dalmatia
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 17:42:03 +0100
Status: RO

Hello,

here is its URL:
http://pubwww.srce.hr/muzej_sibenik/portreti/portret-g02.html

You can forward any related queries to me.
Sincerely,

Jadran Kale
Zupanijski muzej, P.p.7, HR-22001 Sibenik
Croatia: 385 (0) 22/ 213-880, fax 213-355
    @  http://zupanija.sibenik.museum
- -  Sent with PINE 4.10 from CARNet  - -

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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 11:49:00 -0500
Status: RO

Question -- what happens if you use two layers (lining & interlining) of a
twill and make sure one will twist one way and the other in the opposite
direction?
Kate

Katy Bishop wrote:

> I hit something that sent this message too soon.  Here goes again.
>
> $10-15 dollars a yard seems to be a small price to pay when a corset
> takes so little yardage.  Unfortunately no one seems to have as stiff a
> coutil as I could find 5-6 years ago.  Sigh.
>
> I do have a funny story about using a plain twill for a corset.  I think
> it was drill (a less expensive alternative, also available from G&H, but
> works better if self-lined).
>
> A friend bought a ready-made corset from a civil war sutler.  It was
> unlined and made from twilled cloth.  It was made well but no matter
> what she did when she put it on it would twist and sit diagonally on her
> body (didn't help that it had hook instead of a busk) it was pulling on
> the diagonal.  If it had been self lined it would have been stabilized.
> I wonder if extra boning casings would have also solved the problem.
> It was funny when she first put it on and before we figured out what was
> happening.  We thought the dressmaker might have been on drugs :~).
>
> I can sometimes find good twilled cottons in a good upholstery/drapery
> department.
>
> Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
> vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
>      Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
>       Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linda Rice?
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 10:43:19 -0800
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------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C1CA7B.E387F1D0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
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Which window???  Where??

Yeah, it's akin to waving a red flag in front of the charging bull or lig=
hting that candle to torment the helpless moths..

Gia/Giacinta

----- Original Message -----
From: Sue Clemenger
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 6:58 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linda Rice?

Yeah, but, Penny....using bait like that might attract the wrong sort,
like me, in addition to Linda....<g>
--sue

Penny Ladnier wrote:
>
> Robin,
>
> Linda works at night but I am sure if you wave some fabric outside your
> window that she will be there in a minute.
>
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> To: "Historic Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 12:48 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Linda Rice?
>
> >
> > Sorry to use the list for this, but I need to reach Linda Rice, and t=
he
> > address I have for her is bouncing. Linda, please contact me directly=
.
> > Thanks.
> >
> > --Robin
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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>Which window??=
?&nbsp; Where??</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Yeah, it's akin to waving a =
red flag in front of the charging bull or lighting that candle to torment=
 the helpless moths..</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Gia/Giacinta</DIV> <DI=
V>&nbsp;</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px=
; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <=
DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message -----</DIV> <DIV st=
yle=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt Arial; COLOR: black"><B>From:</B> =
Sue Clemenger</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesda=
y, March 13, 2002 6:58 AM</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>To:</B=
> h-costume@indra.com</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Subject:</=
B> Re: [h-cost] Linda Rice?</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>Yeah, but, Penny....us=
ing bait like that might attract the wrong sort,<BR>like me, in addition =
to Linda....&lt;g&gt;<BR>--sue<BR><BR>Penny Ladnier wrote:<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt=
; Robin,<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt; Linda works at night but I am sure if you wave s=
ome fabric outside your<BR>&gt; window that she will be there in a minute=
.<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt; Penny Ladnier<BR>&gt; Owner, The Costume Gallery &amp; =
Costume Classroom<BR>&gt; http://www.costumegallery.com<BR>&gt; http://ww=
w.costumeclassroom.com<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt; ----- Original Message -----<BR>&g=
t; From: "Robin Netherton" &lt;robin@shell.nightowl.net&gt;<BR>&gt; To: "=
Historic Costume List" &lt;h-costume@indra.com&gt;<BR>&gt; Sent: Wednesda=
y, March 13, 2002 12:48 AM<BR>&gt; Subject: [h-cost] Linda Rice?<BR>&gt;<=
BR>&gt; &gt;<BR>&gt; &gt; Sorry to use the list for this, but I need to r=
each Linda Rice, and the<BR>&gt; &gt; address I have for her is bouncing.=
 Linda, please contact me directly.<BR>&gt; &gt; Thanks.<BR>&gt; &gt;<BR>=
&gt; &gt; --Robin<BR>_______________________________________________<BR>h=
-costume mailing list<BR>h-costume@mail.indra.com<BR>http://mail.indra.co=
m/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 15:10:30 EST
Status: RO

A good place for coutil for corsets is Alter Years in Southern California.  Their web address is - www.alteryears.com and the regular address is: 8960 E. Huntington Dr., San Gabriel, CA 91775-1267 (626) 614-9400 (phone), (626) 614-9499 (fax).  The shop is near Pasadena and is a costumer's dream fantasy!  I believe it sells for $10 or $12/yd. but it is the herringbone weave.  They also sell corset kits and patterns as well. 

Good luck.

Donna Scarfe
Fyne Hats By Felicity
www.fynehatsbyfelicity.com
(323) 344-0919
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From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
To: Kate Pinner <pinner@mccc.edu>
cc: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] better sources for corset couti
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 15:30:19 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO


I think, if you use twill for lining and outer fabric, wrong sides
together, the weave will be going different ways and will stabilize each
other.  The only corsets I have made from drill were self lined and
stayed straight.

Katy

On Wed, 13 Mar 2002, Kate Pinner wrote:

>Question -- what happens if you use two layers (lining & interlining) of a
>twill and make sure one will twist one way and the other in the opposite
>direction?
>Kate
>
>Katy Bishop wrote:
>
>> I hit something that sent this message too soon.  Here goes again.
>>
>> $10-15 dollars a yard seems to be a small price to pay when a corset
>> takes so little yardage.  Unfortunately no one seems to have as stiff a
>> coutil as I could find 5-6 years ago.  Sigh.
>>
>> I do have a funny story about using a plain twill for a corset.  I think
>> it was drill (a less expensive alternative, also available from G&H, but
>> works better if self-lined).
>>
>> A friend bought a ready-made corset from a civil war sutler.  It was
>> unlined and made from twilled cloth.  It was made well but no matter
>> what she did when she put it on it would twist and sit diagonally on her
>> body (didn't help that it had hook instead of a busk) it was pulling on
>> the diagonal.  If it had been self lined it would have been stabilized.
>> I wonder if extra boning casings would have also solved the problem.
>> It was funny when she first put it on and before we figured out what was
>> happening.  We thought the dressmaker might have been on drugs :~).
>>
>> I can sometimes find good twilled cottons in a good upholstery/drapery
>> department.
>>
>> Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
>> vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
>>      Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
>>       Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>
>_______________________________________________
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Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Linda Rice?
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 16:29:54 -0500
Status: RO

Penny, you are so bad!  Now I'm gonna hafta explain this: 

A couple of weeks ago, I heard through another friend of mine that a
woman who lives in Richmond (VA) was getting out of the SCA and was
going to have a "yard sale" of her stash.  Well, gee, twist my arm!  So,
since I was driving over an hour to get there but couldn't meet with
this person until after 6pm, I figured I might as well find Penny and
make an afternoon adventure of it. Gang, let me warn you, Penny is evil!
Yes! Really!  She forced me to go to a couple of antique stores, one of
which was literally packed to the gills with so much neat old stuff it
made my head swim. It's a good thing that I didn't have enough money to
buy furniture, or else that boar's headed breakfront would be in my
living room right now. (It was $9500, yikes!)

Then, because we still had an hour to kill, she made me go to a used
bookstore. Arrgh!! No, Penny please, not the books!  Yes, I bought a
couple of books, which was so not in my budget. I find used books even
harder to resist than new ones, because after all, it's not like it will
be there when you come back next week, right? I got a really neat one on
Jacobean embroidery, and one on Greek folk costumes, and an old one on
brass rubbings.  

So, we finally get to the house with the stash for sale. I can feel my
adrenalin rising as I knock on the front door. I am ready for the hunt!
Much to my delight, the lady had wonderful taste in fabrics, and the
majority of her stash was wools, linens and silks. She seemed to have
the same interests as I do, which is Viking period and 14th century.
Almost 2 hours later, I'm still wallowing in fabric paradise, yakking
away, while poor Penny is sitting on the couch giving me that look that
I thought only my sister could give. (My sister has sworn NEVER to go to
within 2 miles of a fabric or craft store with me again!) Penny gently
reminds me that it's almost 8 o'clock, and she hasn't had dinner yet.
Food? Who needs food, I got fabric! Can I help it if I get easily
entranced by the flutter of silk veiling? That the small piece of
embroidered red silk made me dream of little red silk slippers? I could
go on (and on and on) but I know that most of you here understand
exactly what I'm talking about. I finally made it out of there with 3
big bags of stuff, and a bit more that she's holding for me. I also got
13 yards of heavy linen canvas to make a tent with, or perhaps soft
armor if I decide that it isn't enough for that project.

So, be careful where you wave your fabrics, I just might show up! Penny,
you ready for a road trip? <g>

Linda

-----Original Message-----
On Behalf Of Sue Clemenger
 
Yeah, but, Penny....using bait like that might attract the wrong sort,
like me, in addition to Linda....<g>
--sue

Penny Ladnier wrote:
> 
> Robin, 
> Linda works at night but I am sure if you wave some fabric outside
your
> window that she will be there in a minute.



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Subject: [h-cost] Period "Peasant Bodice" and fitting larger women
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 16:27:52 -0700
Status: RO

My re-enactment group has asked me to help them get their costumes to be
more authentic.  This group identifies themselves as 'Celtic', but roughly
translated I think they really mean Scots.  Though their "period" can be
anywhere from 11th century to 1650, most of them attempt the Elizabethan
period.  They are working class trades folk-people who spin, weave, -mostly
make their consumables.

Most of them wear a leine, bodices and several skirts.   I've not found much
specific to that time or place.  I've assumed that with the proximity of
England, Scotland that the fashions which the wealthy liberally imported
from the continent just trickled down to the lower classes-they just
imitated it to the degree they could.  So do you think a bodice and skirt is
still appropriate?  Most of the stuff I have seen looks more like they have
a gown attached to a bodice.

So-I'd be interested in your thoughts on that


Now the fitting question.  Most of these gals are generously sized.  They
are not interested in "cinching it up" so to speak-wearing a corset.  Is it
safe to assume that bodices (skirt attached or not) might be lightly boned
(like at the closure) and just stiffly lined?  I was thinking about using
the "lying down and letting gravity take its course" method for getting a
snug but not too tight fit.  I used that successfully on myself when I made
Drea's Kirtle-anyone had any experience with it fitting larger women?

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Subject: [h-cost] coutil/twill corset
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 18:09:50 -0600
Status: RO

I use twill all the time for corsets and have never had a problem with 
them twisting.   Possibly because, when I cut out the fabric for the 
corsets I have the fabric folded and cut out 2 panels at a time, so 
therefore when the lining is sewn to the outer fabric, the twills 
would naturally be going in the opposite direction. Maybe they work 
together to stablize it?

I use coutil whenever it is important for the corset to be as thinly 
made as possible.  Like if it is going under a fine muslin or 
lightweight damask or silk charmeuse  that is fitted.  I use coutil as 
a lining for corsets that are made from satin or silk brocades for 
stability and durability.

I use canvas mostly for elizabethan/tudor styled corsets.  It does 
stretch, but since I recommend to my people that they wash the corset 
after the first couple of wearings, they usually shrink just enough to 
  compensate for the stretching.
-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linda Rice?
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 18:55:54 -0500
Status: RO

Hmmm... the first time I have been accused of making someone go shopping.  I
guess I will need to break your arm to come to Richmond for the big antique
show at the fairgrounds this weekend!!!!!  I am going to it to look for more
photographs and fashion plates.  I am also looking for my next gown to wear
to the ball this summer.  Linda, I think the antique book show is in May.

Oh!  The Southern Women's Show is at the fairgrounds April 12-14.  I went
last year and it was GRAND!!!  Lots of fun fashion shows.  This show travels
all over the South.  So if interested and want to see if it is coming to
city  http://www.southernshows.com/sws/index.html

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


----- Original Message -----
From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 4:29 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Linda Rice?


> Penny, you are so bad!  Now I'm gonna hafta explain this:
>
> A couple of weeks ago, I heard through another friend of mine that a
> woman who lives in Richmond (VA) was getting out of the SCA and was
> going to have a "yard sale" of her stash.  Well, gee, twist my arm!  So,
> since I was driving over an hour to get there but couldn't meet with
> this person until after 6pm, I figured I might as well find Penny and
> make an afternoon adventure of it. Gang, let me warn you, Penny is evil!
> Yes! Really!  She forced me to go to a couple of antique stores, one of
> which was literally packed to the gills with so much neat old stuff it
> made my head swim. It's a good thing that I didn't have enough money to
> buy furniture, or else that boar's headed breakfront would be in my
> living room right now. (It was $9500, yikes!)
>
> Then, because we still had an hour to kill, she made me go to a used
> bookstore. Arrgh!! No, Penny please, not the books!  Yes, I bought a
> couple of books, which was so not in my budget. I find used books even
> harder to resist than new ones, because after all, it's not like it will
> be there when you come back next week, right? I got a really neat one on
> Jacobean embroidery, and one on Greek folk costumes, and an old one on
> brass rubbings.
>
> So, we finally get to the house with the stash for sale. I can feel my
> adrenalin rising as I knock on the front door. I am ready for the hunt!
> Much to my delight, the lady had wonderful taste in fabrics, and the
> majority of her stash was wools, linens and silks. She seemed to have
> the same interests as I do, which is Viking period and 14th century.
> Almost 2 hours later, I'm still wallowing in fabric paradise, yakking
> away, while poor Penny is sitting on the couch giving me that look that
> I thought only my sister could give. (My sister has sworn NEVER to go to
> within 2 miles of a fabric or craft store with me again!) Penny gently
> reminds me that it's almost 8 o'clock, and she hasn't had dinner yet.
> Food? Who needs food, I got fabric! Can I help it if I get easily
> entranced by the flutter of silk veiling? That the small piece of
> embroidered red silk made me dream of little red silk slippers? I could
> go on (and on and on) but I know that most of you here understand
> exactly what I'm talking about. I finally made it out of there with 3
> big bags of stuff, and a bit more that she's holding for me. I also got
> 13 yards of heavy linen canvas to make a tent with, or perhaps soft
> armor if I decide that it isn't enough for that project.
>
> So, be careful where you wave your fabrics, I just might show up! Penny,
> you ready for a road trip? <g>
>
> Linda
>
> -----Original Message-----
> On Behalf Of Sue Clemenger
>
> Yeah, but, Penny....using bait like that might attract the wrong sort,
> like me, in addition to Linda....<g>
> --sue
>
> Penny Ladnier wrote:
> >
> > Robin,
> > Linda works at night but I am sure if you wave some fabric outside
> your
> > window that she will be there in a minute.
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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>
>


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From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Period "Peasant Bodice" and fitting larger women
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 16:06:08 -0800
Status: RO

At 04:27 PM 03/13/2002 -0700, Saragrace knauf wrote:

>Now the fitting question.  Most of these gals are generously sized.  They
>are not interested in "cinching it up" so to speak-wearing a corset.  Is it
>safe to assume that bodices (skirt attached or not) might be lightly boned
>(like at the closure) and just stiffly lined?  

That's how I do it.  I recently taught a class in lower class Renn Faire
costume and realized I'd been noble too long--I didn't have anything
resembling a lower class "wench" bodice.  So I made one.  Rather to my
srprise, I found that my standard pattern for a upper class front fastened
bodice worked just fine with no alteration beyond using lacing rather than
hooks.  It makes a big difference when your goal is authentic flattening
rather than "tits on a plate'!

I made it in wool, flatlined with duck, and boned it at the center front
opening, and with diagonals running from the corner of the neck to the
center front waist, and from the lower front armseye to the center front
waist.  These two pairs of diagonals flattened my bosom quite adequately
and gave me  comfortable support.  I'm a size 28 C-D cup.  

You can see a picture of the results here:
http://www.margospatterns.com/MayClass.htm

Which is probably the only time anyone's ever going to see me wearing the
Generic Wench, brass grommets and all.  That's my Flemish attempt next to
me, but it doesn't fit that dress form at all.

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Period "Peasant Bodice" and fitting larger women
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 18:08:53 -0700
Status: RO

 Oh yes-this looks very nice.  I think I will cheat a bit and use your
patterns for the starting point!
**http://www.margospatterns.com/MayClass.htm


Sg

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linda Rice/ shopping
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 20:41:47 -0500
Status: RO

Penny- two words: Power Bars.

My boyfriend is the SAME WAY in resale shops, so I hav always learned to
carry something to eat that travels well.

And yes, I know they taste like a hockey puck.

-kel
----- Original Message -----
From: Linda Rice <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 4:29 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Linda Rice?


> Penny, you are so bad!  Now I'm gonna hafta explain this:
>
> A couple of weeks ago, I heard through another friend of mine that a
> woman who lives in Richmond (VA) was getting out of the SCA and was
> going to have a "yard sale" of her stash.  Well, gee, twist my arm!  So,
> since I was driving over an hour to get there but couldn't meet with
> this person until after 6pm, I figured I might as well find Penny and
> make an afternoon adventure of it. Gang, let me warn you, Penny is evil!
> Yes! Really!  She forced me to go to a couple of antique stores, one of
> which was literally packed to the gills with so much neat old stuff it
> made my head swim. It's a good thing that I didn't have enough money to
> buy furniture, or else that boar's headed breakfront would be in my
> living room right now. (It was $9500, yikes!)
>
> Then, because we still had an hour to kill, she made me go to a used
> bookstore. Arrgh!! No, Penny please, not the books!  Yes, I bought a
> couple of books, which was so not in my budget. I find used books even
> harder to resist than new ones, because after all, it's not like it will
> be there when you come back next week, right? I got a really neat one on
> Jacobean embroidery, and one on Greek folk costumes, and an old one on
> brass rubbings.
>
> So, we finally get to the house with the stash for sale. I can feel my
> adrenalin rising as I knock on the front door. I am ready for the hunt!
> Much to my delight, the lady had wonderful taste in fabrics, and the
> majority of her stash was wools, linens and silks. She seemed to have
> the same interests as I do, which is Viking period and 14th century.
> Almost 2 hours later, I'm still wallowing in fabric paradise, yakking
> away, while poor Penny is sitting on the couch giving me that look that
> I thought only my sister could give. (My sister has sworn NEVER to go to
> within 2 miles of a fabric or craft store with me again!) Penny gently
> reminds me that it's almost 8 o'clock, and she hasn't had dinner yet.
> Food? Who needs food, I got fabric! Can I help it if I get easily
> entranced by the flutter of silk veiling? That the small piece of
> embroidered red silk made me dream of little red silk slippers? I could
> go on (and on and on) but I know that most of you here understand
> exactly what I'm talking about. I finally made it out of there with 3
> big bags of stuff, and a bit more that she's holding for me. I also got
> 13 yards of heavy linen canvas to make a tent with, or perhaps soft
> armor if I decide that it isn't enough for that project.
>
> So, be careful where you wave your fabrics, I just might show up! Penny,
> you ready for a road trip? <g>
>
> Linda
>
> -----Original Message-----
> On Behalf Of Sue Clemenger
>
> Yeah, but, Penny....using bait like that might attract the wrong sort,
> like me, in addition to Linda....<g>
> --sue
>
> Penny Ladnier wrote:
> >
> > Robin,
> > Linda works at night but I am sure if you wave some fabric outside
> your
> > window that she will be there in a minute.
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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> [This E-mail scanned for viruses by plugit.com]
>
>
>
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Half round pearls?
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 21:56:09 -0500
Status: RO

Can anyone tell me how pearls (which seem to be half-round pearls) 
may have been attached to a 1560's Renaissance gown fabric? You would 
think the painted depictions would show holes in the pearls if they 
were sewn in place, but none I have seen do.  Would they have used 
some kind of glue? 

  Also, does anyone know of a source for non-oval 8-10 mm half round 
pearls (preferably glass) I can order from?  I'm having a terrible 
time finding anything other than fresh water rice pearls and faux 
plastic spherical beads.  

(And by the way, Bjarne, I have tried the emboiery of metalic gold 
with a similarly colored silk thread on the ivory organza 
chemisette/partlet and it works perfectly! I decided I would prefer 
gold on white, instead of white on white to match the rest of the 
gown I'm working on.  Thanks for the tip -- I would never have 
thought of it on my own.)

Antiquarum Historical Reproductions -- Clothing, Jewellery, Home Decor
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Half round pearls?
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 21:02:36 -0600
Status: RO

I have gotten half-round glass pearls from Berger Beads in LA. I don't
believe they do business on the web, but you can call and ask them about
their stock, the times that I have called them they have been very
helpful.

And they sell something called 'rim settings' which are a thin band of
gold or silver with prongs that go down into the fabric. They are quite
effective and set the pearls off quite nicely. Yes, Berger carries those
as well.


Karen




On Wed, 13 Mar 2002 21:56:09 -0500 "Kimberly Tribe"
<Kimberly@Antiquarum.zzn.com> writes:
> Can anyone tell me how pearls (which seem to be half-round pearls) 
> may have been attached to a 1560's Renaissance gown fabric? You 
> would think the painted depictions would show holes in the pearls if
they 
> 
> were sewn in place, but none I have seen do.  Would they have used 
> some kind of glue? 
> 
>   Also, does anyone know of a source for non-oval 8-10 mm half round 
> pearls (preferably glass) I can order from?  I'm having a terrible 
> time finding anything other than fresh water rice pearls and faux 
> plastic spherical beads.  
> 
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To: h-costume@indra.com, h-costume@indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Half round pearls?
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 19:50:29 -0800
Status: RO

 
>
>  Also, does anyone know of a source for non-oval 8-10 mm half round 
>pearls (preferably glass) I can order from?  I'm having a terrible 
>time finding anything other than fresh water rice pearls and faux 
>plastic spherical beads.  
>
Try this site:

rhinestoneguy.com

They have half round, or flat back, pearls.  They're plastic, but the ones
I bought look pretty good. They also might be able to find glass ones for
you, their website says they can find special requests.  

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] better sources for corset coutil?-why not canvas?
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 23:50:29 -0600
Status: RO

You might want to try http://www.macdonaldfaber.com/ they are located in 
Toronto and the prices are in Canadian.  That is where I bought mine.  It 
isn't cheap but they have some different styles available.  Oh, and they 
call it corset cloth on the site.  You might want to try them...

Oh, and they also sell boning and millinery supplies...

Cheers,
Danielle

At 09:43 AM 3/13/2002 -0500, you wrote:

>$10-15 dollars a yard is a small price to pay when a corset takes so
>little yardage.  Unfortunately no one seems to have as heavy a coutil as
>I could find 5-6 years ago.  Sigh.
>
>I do have a funny story about ising a plain twill for a corset.  I think
>it was drill (a less expensive alternative, also available from G&H, but
>works better if self-lined).
>
>A friend bought a ready-made corset from a civil war sutler.  It was
>unlined and made from twilled cloth.  It was made well but no matter
>what she did when she put it on it would twist and sit diagonally on her
>body (didn't help that it had hook instead of a busk)rz
>**
>pulling on the diagonal.  If it had been self lined
>it would have been stabilized.  I wonder if extra boning would hav also
>solved the problem.  It was funny when she first put it on and before we
>figured out what was happening.

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question for Margo (WAS: Period "Peasant Bodice")
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 10:00:55 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Hi Margo,

Leading on from nothing in particular....

Did you ever finish the outfit you were making to review the 
Simplicity "Shakespeare in Love" pattern?  I know you put it aside 
when you started work on your pattern business, but did you ever 
get back to it?

Teddy


Teddy

Bibliographical Services
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London
N11 2NQ
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E-mail: teddy1@mdx.ac.uk
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 06:31:51 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


Many Thanks to everyone for all your help in finding
this book .... when it arrives, I will post many happy
dances to you all
Regards
Carol

=====
....you cease to mourn the morning when you celebrate the night .....

"The night summons like an unquenched love, beckoning with the promise of dark desires."

"The only way to get rid of temptation is to give in to it" ... Oscar Wilde

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From: "Linda J. Thompson" <LindaJThompson@comcast.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Peasantry question?
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 08:37:03 -0600
Status: RO

This is something I have always had issues with. And I was curious as 
to what others opinions were.

Does everyone think that female peasants during the late Renaissance 
era in England wore tight bodices?  I know that frequently it is 
simply people trying to do the "movie land" bar maid look,and standard 
RenFair, but in reality how many woman in the real working class level 
would have worn bodices that were stiff and tight?

In all the reproductions of woodcuts, and paintings of artists works, 
that I have seen, whenever I see working people in the pictures, they 
are usually in fairly loose clothing, lots of curves in the bustline 
area.  Granted, mostly these are European artists and paintings for 
the most part, but I just feel strongly that it would carry over to 
England also.  For examples of what I am talking about check out the 
art of the following  Aertsen, Beuckelaer, Bruegel.  I am sure there 
are many more, I just don't have time to find them.

Anyone have an opinion?
-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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From: Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Peasantry question?
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 07:36:28 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

--- "Linda J. Thompson" <LindaJThompson@comcast.net> wrote:
> Does everyone think that female peasants during the late
> Renaissance 
> era in England wore tight bodices?  I know that frequently it is 
> simply people trying to do the "movie land" bar maid look,and
> standard 
> RenFair, but in reality how many woman in the real working class
> level 
> would have worn bodices that were stiff and tight?

I think if they were ample-bosomed, they would have worn a tight
bodice for support. I am in the D+ category, and I like my bodices to
be SNUG, and not just because of the way it looks, but because it
provides the support I need. I could not STAND to work in a loose
bodice! Gotta keep those puppies strapped down real tight...


mirv




=====
Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Mar 14 11:51:00 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com, h-costume@indra.com
From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question for Margo (WAS: Period "Peasant Bodice")
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 07:24:35 -0800
Status: RO

At 10:00 AM 03/14/2002 +0000, Teddy wrote:
>Hi Margo,
>
>Leading on from nothing in particular....
>
>Did you ever finish the outfit you were making to review the 
>Simplicity "Shakespeare in Love" pattern?  I know you put it aside 
>when you started work on your pattern business, but did you ever 
>get back to it?
>
No, I never did.  First I was too busy, and now...well, I'm still too busy,
but it also seems counterproductive to spend a lot of my time creating a
webpage to help people use that pattern when, in my humble opinion, there's
now a better option.  My patterns include all the construction details I
thought were so nifty about the SIL pattern, but they also have properly
cut bodices and a lot of other options as well.

If anyone else wants to do it, though, go ahead!

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Mar 14 13:21:06 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Period "Peasant Bodice" and fitting larger women
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 12:15:24 -0500
Status: RO

I've fitted the garments you're describing on larger ladies before, 
and I've found that you usually need an additional piece of boning at 
the sides under the arm to keep the sides from creeping and bunching -
- because the skirts which are attached are usually not heavy enough 
in weight to keep the sides from folding horizontally/bunching.  I 
suppose if your stiffening were fairly severe it would work in the 
same manner, but you would still probably have some creeping as even 
stiff interlinings will fold under any stress.  

Just my two-bits. =)

Antiquarum Historical Reproductions -- Clothing, Jewellery, Home Decor
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 13:01:42 -0500
Status: RO

Starting at 1PM (east coast time) right now, TCM (Turner's movie channel)
will be
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out what time these movies are in your time zone go to
http://www.turnerclassicmovies.com/Schedule/Index

Penny Ladnier
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http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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From: "Brenna" <brenna@robewarriors.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Period "Peasant Bodice" and fitting larger women
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 10:25:15 -0800
Status: RO

If the sides are bunching then possibly the bodice waist has been made too
long.

I know this has probably been pointed out but I'll do it again anyways -
the correct (and sensible) order of construction would be from the skin
out - first the chemise, then the skirt, _then_ the bodice.  I've seen too
many women try to figure out why their bodice won't fit right when they did
it _first_ without establishing the waistline via the skirt or the armseye
or neckline by way of the chemise.

As for extensive boning (or the lack thereof), my experience has shown that
even the most ample bust can be supported well (in the Elizabethan style) by
just four bones - two on each side.

The first pair runs straight down the front regardless of the closure
placement.

The second, if needed, runs from the bottom point up to about where the
armseye curves from horizontal to vertical on the front of the body.  You
have to "play" with that one to see just where it should be.  (If there is a
back closure, then a pair is needed there for closure support or _it_ will
scrunch.)

If it looks like it needs vertical boning on the sides, then the bodice is
too long.  Try shortening it.  If you don't want to cut it right away, just
turn it up and tug down on the foldline.  It should prove itself.

Been there; done that; tailoring has become one of my fortes.....  (I'll
make that #%^*% thing _fit_!) <g>

btw - the skirt fabric for a lower-class woman would be _heavy_, not light.
Those sheer float-y fabrics that so many use would be, in period,
prohibitively expensive for the lower-classes.  The time and effort to spin
and then weave with that fine a thread ..... And then to finish the seam so
it didn't fall apart ..... again, extra work.


ttyl,
Brenna

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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 09:48:52 -0800
Status: RO


>Does everyone think that female peasants during the late Renaissance era 
>in England wore tight bodices?  I know that frequently it is simply people 
>trying to do the "movie land" bar maid look,and standard RenFair, but in 
>reality how many woman in the real working class level would have worn 
>bodices that were stiff and tight?

There's tight, and there's tight.  Tight enough to keep the anatomy from 
flopping (I call that 'snug'), yes.  Tight enough to constrict the 
diaphragm and affect breathing (I call that 'kinky'), no need to.

>In all the reproductions of woodcuts, and paintings of artists works, that 
>I have seen, whenever I see working people in the pictures, they are 
>usually in fairly loose clothing, lots of curves in the bustline 
>area.  Granted, mostly these are European artists and paintings for the 
>most part, but I just feel strongly that it would carry over to England 
>also.  For examples of what I am talking about check out the art of the 
>following  Aertsen, Beuckelaer, Bruegel.  I am sure there are many more, I 
>just don't have time to find them.

The bodices are tight enough to keep the anatomy behaving, as witness the 
smooth lines of said bodices.  But the flat front thing seems to have been 
upper class, and usually English/French/Spanish.  The Germans didn't do it 
unless they were wearing Spanish-inspired styles.

Kayta
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From: Liz / Cozit <cozit@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Peasantry question? msgs
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 14:22:57 -0500
Status: RO

I have to admit to some creeping problems with my Irish dress.  The bodice is *not* too
long, if anything, it's about a quarter or half inch too short... my shape just wants to
make it creep up, and I find that I tug it down periodically... more often than I notice a
real need to.  Two bones down the center front, since that's where it's laced.  Next similar
such I'll be putting another on each side, most likely.

Laced snugly... far from tight, but enough that I won't have to keep "adjusting myself" more
than every few hours, without the additional boning and/or stiffening the nobles bodice has
it does make a noticable curve in front, somedays more than others... and I'm not
particularly large in front... well, other than the weight that's been creeping up on me.

A heavier skirt would help a bit... but not all that much... since I've attatched the
underskirt to the inside of the bodice on occasion as well, and the creeping has been no
less.

Still experimenting,
-Elisabeth

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Mar 14 16:32:38 2002
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Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Peasantry question? msgs
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 12:27:31 -0800
Status: RO

Um, Liz .... if you're having to re-adjust at all, it's not fitting right.
It sounds too loose.

I've fitted bodices well enough for women who had to worry about "jiggle
factor" that even after dancing a jig, they didn't need to re-adjust
anything.

Bear in mind that when you go to fuss with your clothes
_when_you're_wearing_them_  that it frequently makes your shoulders and,
hence, bodice to rise causing it to _seem_ like the bodice is too short.

Try having someone else check (and tug and check) it.  Preferrably someone
who knows what they're doing.  <g>   It can make all the difference in the
world.....

later,
Brenna

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From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] fabric source
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 15:24:55 -0600
Status: RO

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C1CB6C.64EF5EC0
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Does anyone have a good online source for wool? I have silk and linen =
and cotton merchants in my bookmarks, but no one seems to have a very =
good selection of wools.


**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of =
Bristol,
BRF FOF

So many books, so little time

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************


------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C1CB6C.64EF5EC0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Does anyone have a good online source =
for wool? I=20
have silk and linen and cotton merchants in my bookmarks, but no one =
seems to=20
have a very good selection of wools.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>**********************<BR>Rebecca =
Schmitt<BR>aka=20
Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of=20
Bristol,<BR>BRF FOF</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>So many books, so little =
time</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:lotsofteapots@charter.net">lotsofteapots@charter.net</A><B=
R>**********************<BR></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C1CB6C.64EF5EC0--

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From: "Linda J. Thompson" <LindaJThompson@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Peasantry question?
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 15:38:56 -0600
Status: RO


 >There's tight, and there's tight.  Tight enough to keep the anatomy from
 >flopping (I call that 'snug'), yes.  Tight enough to constrict the
 >diaphragm and affect breathing (I call that 'kinky'), no need to.


 >>In all the reproductions of woodcuts, and paintings of artists works, that
 >>I have seen, whenever I see working people in the pictures, they are
 >>usually in fairly loose clothing, lots of curves in the bustline
 >>area.  Granted, mostly these are European artists and paintings for the
 >>most part, but I just feel strongly that it would carry over to England
 >>also.  For examples of what I am talking about check out the art of the
 >>following  Aertsen, Beuckelaer, Bruegel.  I am sure there are many more, I
 >>just don't have time to find them.


 >The bodices are tight enough to keep the anatomy behaving, as witness the
 >smooth lines of said bodices.  But the flat front thing seems to have been
 >upper class, and usually English/French/Spanish.  The Germans didn't do it
 >unless they were wearing Spanish-inspired styles.

 >Kayta

But if you look at Bruegels work, the bodices on the peasants aren't tight at all.
They don't waste a lot of fabric so they follow the form, but they are hardly
snug in many cases.  You can see areas where there are wrinkles and folds
in the fabric.

-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 16:22:38 -0500
Status: RO

Taline
I give all makeup tests in Apr during exam week and they are short
answer tests (not multiple choice). I will have to see your Doctor's
certificate and you will have to arrange a test time with me closer to
early April
Kathy

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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 13:59:54 -0800
Status: RO

Ah, and here am I trying to find a website host so I can go on-line with my
shop.  I have summer-weight wools in stock.

Rebecca,

Contact me off-line and tell me just what you're looking for.

Brenna Sharp
  brenna@robewarriors.com
B Sharp Fabrics
Portland OR
OR Bus. Lic. #065455-94


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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 14:07:23 -0800
Status: RO

What do they call a yardstick in England, Canada, and Australia?  A
meter stick?

Do they sell anything corresponding to a 12-inch "foot" ruler, and
what is it called?  Do they sell 6-inch rulers and if so what do they
call them?

In the US measuring tools for sewing often come marked with both
English and metric units (one system on each edge of the tool).  Is
that true in countries that only use the metric system?

Do they sell dotted pattern-drafting paper with a metric grid instead
of an inch grid, and what unit/size grid  is used (1 cm seems small to
me)?  How about that gridded interfacing type stuff you can use for
copying patterns from clothes?

Do most sewers in these countries still understand the English system,
or only a few?

Thanks for any enlightenment,

Fran

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web page!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com


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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 23:51:18 +0100
Status: RO



Lavolta Press wrote:

>
> In the US measuring tools for sewing often come marked with both
> English and metric units (one system on each edge of the tool).  Is
> that true in countries that only use the metric system?
>

Here in the Netherlands they only sell the metric ones.
I have one with also inches on it but it is is damaged.
I use a lot of patterns wich are in inches.
So I tried to find a new one.
But I havn't found one yet.


>
> Do they sell dotted pattern-drafting paper with a metric grid instead
> of an inch grid, and what unit/size grid  is used (1 cm seems small to
> me)?  How about that gridded interfacing type stuff you can use for
> copying patterns from clothes?

I can olny find pattern-drafting paper without lines ore dots on it.
I had paper with squares on it, they were 4 by 4 cm.

Greetings,
        Deredere

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 00:16:43 +0100
Status: RO

--=====================_6597927==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed


>
>In the US measuring tools for sewing often come marked with both
>English and metric units (one system on each edge of the tool).  Is
>that true in countries that only use the metric system?

i haven't seen any tools with inches on them in germany. i needed one for 
use with inch patterns, so i brought a double-sided ruler home from hong kong.

>Do they sell dotted pattern-drafting paper with a metric grid instead
>of an inch grid, and what unit/size grid  is used (1 cm seems small to
>me)?

there's copying paper with a 1 cm grid. not dotted, but actual lines. i 
think it only seems small if you're not used to it.

>Do most sewers in these countries still understand the English system,
>or only a few?

if you mean the english-speaking countries, i think most people are still 
rooted in the imperial system - whenever an englishperson talks of 
measurements to me, the imperial/metric gap between them and me is 
painfully noticeable. the continent is very firmly metric, of course.

ciao,
alexa


--=====================_6597927==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
<blockquote type=cite cite><br>
<font size=3>In the US measuring tools for sewing often come marked with
both<br>
English and metric units (one system on each edge of the tool).&nbsp;
Is<br>
that true in countries that only use the metric
system?</font></blockquote><br>
i haven't seen any tools with inches on them in germany. i needed one for
use with inch patterns, so i brought a double-sided ruler home from hong
kong. <br>
<br>
<font size=3><blockquote type=cite cite>Do they sell dotted
pattern-drafting paper with a metric grid instead<br>
of an inch grid, and what unit/size grid&nbsp; is used (1 cm seems small
to<br>
me)?  </font></blockquote><br>
there's copying paper with a 1 cm grid. not dotted, but actual lines. i
think it only seems small if you're not used to it. <br>
<br>
<font size=3><blockquote type=cite cite>Do most sewers in these countries
still understand the English system,<br>
or only a few?</blockquote><br>
if you mean the english-speaking countries, i think most people are still
rooted in the imperial system - whenever an englishperson talks of
measurements to me, the imperial/metric gap between them and me is
painfully noticeable. the continent is very firmly metric, of
course.<br>
<br>
ciao,<br>
alexa<br>
<br>
</font></html>

--=====================_6597927==_.ALT--

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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 14:00:19 +1300
Status: RO

> What do they call a yardstick in England, Canada, and Australia?  A
> meter stick?

NZ is extremely comparable to Aus, except their sizes are one step more
generous than we are. Except we are now using their sizes...

I don't know specifically what you are refering to, we have long metal
rulers for metal and wood crafts, and in the sewing business we tend to just
use measuring tapes.
When we buy fabric, there is a metal ruler sunk into the table, and from the
customer side it looks like it has both inches and cms on it. It's about
1.5m long


> Do they sell anything corresponding to a 12-inch "foot" ruler, and
> what is it called?  Do they sell 6-inch rulers and if so what do they
> call them?

yes, a 30cm ruler, often it will have mm on the other side, but occasionally
you can still find rulers with cm on one edge and inches on the other. It's
approx the same length as a 12" ruler.

The shorter rulers are 15cm and as above.

They are just called rulers or short rulers. On the packet they are sold
according to the metric length.

> In the US measuring tools for sewing often come marked with both
> English and metric units (one system on each edge of the tool).  Is
> that true in countries that only use the metric system?

Um... increasingly difficult to find both inches and cms on rulers not just
used for sewing, but because we get so many items from countries that
primarily sell to the US we still get both units on many tools. Measuring
tapes nearly always have inches on one side and cms on the other.

> Do they sell dotted pattern-drafting paper with a metric grid instead
> of an inch grid, and what unit/size grid  is used (1 cm seems small to
> me)?  How about that gridded interfacing type stuff you can use for
> copying patterns from clothes?

I have a big cardboard cutting mat with 2.5cm grids. This is close to a 1"
grid but over a distance quite quite different. I haven't seen the gridded
interfacing stuff, which I am dying to use as it would make my pattern
transfer that much easier.

> Do most sewers in these countries still understand the English system,
> or only a few?


Very well understood, and it depends on the age really. Though when younger
like myself you were genrally taught by an older generation that used the
empirical system. And of course Patterns of Fashion and tailoring books
primarily use the empirical system.

I have to tag on a quote here.
NOTE FOR YOUNG PEOPLE AND AMERICANS: One shilling = Five pee. It helps to
understand the antique finances of the Witchfinder army if you know the
original British monotary system:
Two farthings = One ha'penny. Two ha'penny's = One Penny. Three pennies = A
thruppeny bit. Two thrupences = A sixpense. Two sixpenses = a shilling, or a
Bob. Two bob = a florin. One florin and one sixpense = Half a crown. Four
half crowns = ten bob note. Two ten bon notes = One pound (or 240 pennies).
One pound and one shilling = One Guinea.
The British resisted decimalized currency for a long time because they
thought it was too complicated.

~Terry Pratchett, Good Omens (it feels more like Pterry than Neil Gaimen who
co wrote the novel)

michaela


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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 19:11:01 -0600
Status: RO

At 08:37 AM 3/14/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>This is something I have always had issues with. And I was curious as to 
>what others opinions were.
>
>Does everyone think that female peasants during the late Renaissance era 
>in England wore tight bodices?  I know that frequently it is simply people 
>trying to do the "movie land" bar maid look,and standard RenFair, but in 
>reality how many woman in the real working class level would have worn 
>bodices that were stiff and tight?
>
>In all the reproductions of woodcuts, and paintings of artists works, that 
>I have seen, whenever I see working people in the pictures, they are 
>usually in fairly loose clothing, lots of curves in the bustline 
>area.  Granted, mostly these are European artists and paintings for the 
>most part, but I just feel strongly that it would carry over to England 
>also.  For examples of what I am talking about check out the art of the 
>following  Aertsen, Beuckelaer, Bruegel.  I am sure there are many more, I 
>just don't have time to find them.
>
>Anyone have an opinion?
>--
>Linda Thompson

Yup, I certainly do. :  )  I personally have found no evidence for the 
lower orders wearing boned bodices...  If you look at sketches, etchings, 
prints, etc...  you can see more images of artisan or labouring class 
people.  In all the ones that come to mind, there are bust curves on the 
women, and wrinkles in the bodices.  It becomes quite readily apparent that 
it is pretty much only in portraiture (where the artist has to please the 
person who commissioned the painting) that you see perfectly smooth, 
wrinkle-free bodice fronts.  Besides, if you look at the Holbein drawings 
you can even find bust curves and wrinkles.  So, I think they were probably 
worn snug enough to give support but not too tight to interfere with 
movement or comfort.

Cheers,
Danielle

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 19:22:31 -0600
Status: RO

Greetings,

Actually, in Canada (or at least where I lived in Ontario) it was still 
called a yardstick.  : )  Most rulers available had inches on one side an 
centimeters on the other and were frequently either 12 or 18 inches 
long.  The switch to metric from Imperial seems to have happened in the 
later 1970s in Canada because I remember having to switch systems while I 
was in grade school so it's not as firmly entrenched as it might be in some 
other countries.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 02:07 PM 3/14/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>What do they call a yardstick in England, Canada, and Australia?  A
>meter stick?
>
>Do they sell anything corresponding to a 12-inch "foot" ruler, and
>what is it called?  Do they sell 6-inch rulers and if so what do they
>call them?
>
>In the US measuring tools for sewing often come marked with both
>English and metric units (one system on each edge of the tool).  Is
>that true in countries that only use the metric system?
>
>Do they sell dotted pattern-drafting paper with a metric grid instead
>of an inch grid, and what unit/size grid  is used (1 cm seems small to
>me)?  How about that gridded interfacing type stuff you can use for
>copying patterns from clothes?
>
>Do most sewers in these countries still understand the English system,
>or only a few?
>
>Thanks for any enlightenment,
>
>Fran
>
>---------------------------------------------
>Visit our web page!
>Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
>http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
>
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 01:47:56
Status: RO

>Do they sell dotted pattern-drafting paper with a metric grid instead
>of an inch grid, and what unit/size grid  is used (1 cm seems small to
>me)?  How about that gridded interfacing type stuff you can use for
>copying patterns from clothes?
>
"gridded interfacing type stuff" ? Where can I get some of this?

Mary/Katerine

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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 18:07:28 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Jo-anns sells it, with the interfacing.


> >Do they sell dotted pattern-drafting paper with a metric grid instead
> >of an inch grid, and what unit/size grid  is used (1 cm seems small to
> >me)?  How about that gridded interfacing type stuff you can use for
> >copying patterns from clothes?
> >
> "gridded interfacing type stuff" ? Where can I get some of this?
> 
> Mary/Katerine
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Join the world?s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. 
> http://www.hotmail.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Salon.com article on Victorian corsets
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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 18:12:23 -0800
Status: RO

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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An interesting book review/opinion piece:

http://www.salon.com/sex/gallery/2002/03/01/corset/index.html

- Kendra


------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C1C603.A16F1DE0
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
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charset=3Diso-8859-1">
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>An interesting book review/opinion=20
piece:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://www.salon.com/sex/gallery/2002/03/01/corset/index.html">ht=
tp://www.salon.com/sex/gallery/2002/03/01/corset/index.html</A></FONT></D=
IV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>- Kendra</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] Fabric Question-Silk 'Shantung Chiffon'?
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 23:35:20 -0500
Status: RO

Has anyone ever heard of silk shantung chiffon?
There is a blouse made from this at the Max Studio web site.
I've never heard of such a fabric.
Think it's a mis-print?
Lisa

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Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 10:56:18 -0800
Status: RO

I have been invited by the Lace Museum in Sunnyvale, California, to give a
talk on my field of expertise (Friday, March 15). The topic of the
slideshow/lecture is "Metal Lace in Fashion: Past, present, future?" I will
discuss progress of precious metal lace throughout centuries of fashion.

For more information, please visit the Lace Museum's website at
http://www.thelacemuseum.org/Lenka.html

Lenka
---
Lenka Suchanek
Vancouver Canada
Silver Pin Studio: Art of Handmade Lace
Fine Wire Lace: Patterns & Supplies
http://www.silverpinstudio.com




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Subject: [h-cost] Book about Homespun
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 11:57:28 -0800
Status: RO

Dear Members,
I work for a company that provides technical services for university libraries
world wide and I'm briefly delurking to share information about a great book
that came through today. So for those of you that haven't seen it:   
"The Age of Homespun: Objects and Stories in the Creation of an American Myth"
by Laurel Thatcher Ulrich.  ISBN 0-679-44594-3
It is described as "Using objects that Americans have saved through the
centuries and stories they have passed along, as well as histories teased from
documents, Laurel Thatcher Ulrich chronicles the production of cloth  - and of
history - in early America".  
I haven't read it, but a quick look through the 11 chapters is promising. I
would have preferred that the photos be in color, but that's a small gripe
compared to what appears to be some interesting research. 

Ms. Ulrich won the Pulitzer Prize for History in 1991 for her wonderful 
telling of "A Midwife's Tale: The Life of Martha Ballard Based on Her Diary,
1785-1812". The PBS movie was quite well done also, mixing the story of
historians trying to decipher the spellings and meanings of the period and
presenting a dramatization of the events within.   

Have fun!   Shea Young in Portland, Oregon



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Subject: [h-cost] Ebay auction: Book on Bust adjustment method
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 16:38:45 -0500
Status: RO

Hey all -

Saw this when I was surfing, and I know there has been discussion on
adjusting patterns for multiple cup sizes before:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1712262871

-kel


Kelly A Rinne
http://www.costumedesign.net

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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 20:53:16 -0700
Status: RO

No, I wish I did though....*huge sigh*....
I'd just fallen in love with gstreet fabrics when they shut down their
website.  Did manage to score some very nice brick-colored wool and some
camel-colored stuff, and was all ready to buy more.....*sniff, sniff*
--Sue

> Rebecca Schmitt wrote:
> 
> Does anyone have a good online source for wool? I have silk and linen
> and cotton merchants in my bookmarks, but no one seems to have a very
> good selection of wools.
> 
> 
> **********************
> Rebecca Schmitt
> aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
> Bristol,
> BRF FOF
> 
> So many books, so little time
> 
> lotsofteapots@charter.net
> **********************
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Peasantry question?
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 20:55:02 -0700
Status: RO

Huh????
--sue

Kathy Cleaver wrote:
> 
> Taline
> I give all makeup tests in Apr during exam week and they are short
> answer tests (not multiple choice). I will have to see your Doctor's
> certificate and you will have to arrange a test time with me closer to
> early April
> Kathy
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Period "Peasant Bodice" and fitting larger women
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 21:01:12 -0700
Status: RO

Dunno about that one...the only two things I have *ever* seen adequately
support my bust (I'm some sort of 56G, mumble, mumble) are my
Elizabethan corset (with rather more than four bones), and one of
Robin's gothic fitted gowns.  If I'm wearing another style (ItalianRen,
for instance, or one of the earlier styles involving some sort of
tee-tunic, or the lower-class wench stuff I wore for years before I
turned it into loaner garb for our SCA group) I pretty much *have* to
cheat and wear a bra.
I'm looking forward to trying some of the corded bodies and stays that
have been showing up recently.....
--Sue

Brenna wrote:
> 
> 
> As for extensive boning (or the lack thereof), my experience has shown that
> even the most ample bust can be supported well (in the Elizabethan style) by
> just four bones - two on each side.
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Mar 15 01:06:59 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Sheryl Nance-Durst <sherylnd@sound.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Half round pearls?
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 22:56:15 -0600
Status: RO

Kimberly,

Ornamental Resources (http://www.ornabead.com) has 8mm white pearl
cabachons in their glass stones section - $17.00 per gram. (no idea how
many are in a gram, though.)

Sheryl Nance-Durst

At 09:56 PM 3/13/02 -0500, you wrote:

>   Also, does anyone know of a source for non-oval 8-10 mm half round
>pearls (preferably glass) I can order from?  I'm having a terrible
>time finding anything other than fresh water rice pearls and faux
>plastic spherical beads.
>
>Antiquarum Historical Reproductions -- Clothing, Jewellery, Home Decor


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric Question-Silk 'Shantung Chiffon'?
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 01:33:41 EST
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In a message dated 3/14/2002 6:09:43 PM Pacific Standard Time, martyr@gti.net 
writes:


> Has anyone ever heard of silk shantung chiffon?
> There is a blouse made from this at the Max Studio web site.
> I've never heard of such a fabric.
> Think it's a mis-print?
> Lisa

It sounds impossible to me, but perhaps it's some sort of nubby weave into a 
chiffon?? If you find out, I'd love to know the procedure or see a scan of a 
sample.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes 
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"As in a theater, the eyes of men, 
after a well-graced actor leaves the stage, 
are idly bent on him that enters next, 
thinking his prattle to be tedious."
Richard II;  V, ii - W. Shakespeare

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial Narrow" LANG="0">In a message dated 3/14/2002 6:09:43 PM Pacific Standard Time, martyr@gti.net writes:<BR>
<BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Has anyone ever heard of silk shantung chiffon?<BR>
There is a blouse made from this at the Max Studio web site.<BR>
I've never heard of such a fabric.<BR>
Think it's a mis-print?<BR>
Lisa</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial Narrow" LANG="0"><BR>
It sounds impossible to me, but perhaps it's some sort of nubby weave into a chiffon?? If you find out, I'd love to know the procedure or see a scan of a sample.<BR>
<BR>
angela<BR>
+++++<BR>
Angela F. Lazear<BR>
Cabbage Rose Costumes <BR>
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com<BR>
Theatrical Costume Design<BR>
<BR>
"As in a theater, the eyes of men, <BR>
after a well-graced actor leaves the stage, <BR>
are idly bent on him that enters next, <BR>
thinking his prattle to be tedious."<BR>
Richard II;&nbsp; V, ii - W. Shakespeare<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linda Rice/ shopping
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 02:26:08 -0500
Status: RO

Yesterday I went to Joanne's... it is no longer there!!!  I went to Fabric
Warehouse (a great warehouse for Hancock Fabrics).  It is no longer
there!!!!!!  Now this sounds a little suspicious.  I took Linda to her car
on the same street that both of these fabric stores were.  She had to pass
both of the shops to go home.  Did she stop and buy all the fabric at these
shops, then they had to close up their businesses??????????  Is Linda hiding
all the fabric that Richmond had?????

Time to take a trip to VA Beach to see what IS in her sewing room.  No one
invite Linda to your town until I figure this one out.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 18:32:18 +1100
Status: RO

At 02:07  2002-03-14 -0800, Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
wrote:

>Do they sell dotted pattern-drafting paper with a metric grid instead
>of an inch grid, and what unit/size grid  is used (1 cm seems small to
>me)?  How about that gridded interfacing type stuff you can use for
>copying patterns from clothes?

I'm in Australia, and I have a stack of pattern drafting paper with 1cm 
grid on it (bold lines every 5cm), made by Burda, which most sewing shops 
sell. I've never seen gridded interfacing, however.

  - Sonia

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric Question-Silk 'Shantung Chiffon'?
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 02:48:11 -0500
Status: RO

No, I think it's a just misprint. No one has heard of it.
Of course I would let everyone in on it if I were to find it.
I wrote to the company but no response yet.
Lisa

>It sounds impossible to me, but perhaps it's some sort of nubby weave
into >a chiffon?? If you find out, I'd love to know the procedure or see
a scan of a >sample.

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 08:30:17 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Answers for England:
> What do they call a yardstick in England, Canada, and Australia?  A
> meter stick?
We still have yard sticks but in addition there is also a meter rule.

>Do they sell anything corresponding to a 12-inch "foot" ruler, and
> what is it called?  Do they sell 6-inch rulers and if so what do they
> call them?
You can still buy 6" and 12" rulers in any stationary shop in the UK.  They now come with
centimeters on the other side so you get 6"/15cm and 12"/30cm rulers.

It is worth noting that this might change soon as the EU wants all member countries to move to an
entirely metric system (clothing measurements included).

> Do they sell dotted pattern-drafting paper with a metric grid instead
> of an inch grid, and what unit/size grid  is used (1 cm seems small to
> me)?  
I have seen 1/2in grid for pattern drafting but they are becoming rarer and they are moving more
towards the metric grids.

> How about that gridded interfacing type stuff you can use for
> copying patterns from clothes?
Never seen this!

> Do most sewers in these countries still understand the English system,
> or only a few?
Depends what you mean by the English system.  Over here patterns are still printed with both
metric and imperial measurements.  Although most sewers I know, myself included, use imperial
despite being taught metric at school!

Rachel

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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 09:33:49 +0100
Status: RO

Hi
In Denmark they use a meterstick. It is only 50 cm. long 1/2 a meter long. But
they also use a centimeter band 1 meter long sitting on the table where they cut
the fabrics.
I use a centimeter band or tape?
I dont have any problems with the differences in meassures. I use an Ennascope (
picture devise) that blows up the pictures on the wall. I use this when i want
to copy patterns from books. I can use my centimeter tape here to get the size i
want.
The only advantage we have with the meter system is that we gets more fabric
than you do, because you only use yards ha ha...........

Bjarne

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linda Rice/ shopping
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 09:42:45 +0100
Status: RO

Hello.
Yes i read your story about shopping. I am glad that it wasnt me that visited
Penny.
Mostly because i have spend a fortune lately buying silk embroidery threads. I
think that Hedgehog handworks have sold out all their silk chenille threads
because of me and i have ordered a lot of silk floss two. Then i visited Silk
Anettes shop at Farum in Denmark, and i emptyed all her hand dyed silkthreads
two.....
I am in a totally freak embroidery koholic mood these days. i have a project in
my head i want to do when i have finished my suit. And in an hour or so, you
will find me again at the library at the Museum of Decorative Arts, drawing old
embroidery motifs.................What is this going to end with?

Bjarne

Penny Ladnier wrote:

> Yesterday I went to Joanne's... it is no longer there!!!  I went to Fabric
> Warehouse (a great warehouse for Hancock Fabrics).  It is no longer
> there!!!!!!  Now this sounds a little suspicious.  I took Linda to her car
> on the same street that both of these fabric stores were.  She had to pass
> both of the shops to go home.  Did she stop and buy all the fabric at these
> shops, then they had to close up their businesses??????????  Is Linda hiding
> all the fabric that Richmond had?????
>
> Time to take a trip to VA Beach to see what IS in her sewing room.  No one
> invite Linda to your town until I figure this one out.
>
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
>
> ---
> [This E-mail scanned for viruses by plugit.com]
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 09:49:14 +0000
Status: RO


>>> fran@lavoltapress.com 03/14/02 10:07pm >>>
>What do they call a yardstick in England, Canada, and Australia?  A
>meter stick?

I've mostly heard the term "yardstick" used in a metaphorical sense,
rather than to describe an actual ruler.

>Do they sell anything corresponding to a 12-inch "foot" ruler, and
>what is it called?  Do they sell 6-inch rulers and if so what do they
>call them?

12 and 6-inch rulers with cms. on the other edge are still in common
use; I don't know what the rulers currently in the shops are like.

>In the US measuring tools for sewing often come marked with both
>English and metric units (one system on each edge of the tool).  Is
>that true in countries that only use the metric system?

>Do most sewers in these countries still understand the English
system,
>or only a few?

The UK is less completely metricated than many Americans seem to think.
We've used the metric system for 30-odd years, but it's only in the past
few that shops have actually been prohibited from using imperial weights
and measures - until then, fabric was often still sold by the yard.

Most of those under 50 will have been taught to measure in metric at
school, but many still think in imperial - "He's six feet tall"  "I want
to lose five pounds"  (people's weight is expressed in stones = 14 lb.)
And, for the time being at least, we still measure distance in miles and
beer (in pubs) in pints!



Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Peasantry question?
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 10:24:13 +0000 (GMT)
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> This is something I have always had issues with. And I was curious as
> to what others opinions were.
> 
> Does everyone think that female peasants during the late Renaissance
> era in England wore tight bodices?  I know that frequently it is
> simply people trying to do the "movie land" bar maid look,and standard
> RenFair, but in reality how many woman in the real working class level
> would have worn bodices that were stiff and tight?
> 
> In all the reproductions of woodcuts, and paintings of artists
> works, that I have seen, whenever I see working people in the
> pictures, they are usually in fairly loose clothing, lots of curves
> in the bustline area. Granted, mostly these are European artists
> and paintings for the most part, but I just feel strongly that it
> would carry over to England also. For examples of what I am talking
> about check out the art of the following Aertsen, Beuckelaer,
> Bruegel.  I am sure there are many more, I just don't have time to
> find them. 
> 
> Anyone have an opinion?

I have an opinion, but that's all it is really - not backed up by any 
form of research....

They may have, and probably did (what class of people is 
*whithout* the subset that will try their best to emulate their "social 
superiors" to whatever extent their recources enable them?) wear 
*tight* bodices, but I suspect for the most part it wasn't *stiff*.  If 
you were to make two bodices form the same person, from the 
same cloth and cut to the same pattern but heavily stiffened and 
boned one and only interlined one with a sturdy cloth, the amount of 
curves and "natural" body shape allowed by them would be 
drastically different.... for that matter an unboned/unstiuffened 
bodice worn over a high-fashion corset will give a different shape 
from the same bodice worn without the corset underneath.

OK enough waffle from me. 

Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question for Margo
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 10:32:06 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> >Did you ever finish the outfit you were making to review the 
> >Simplicity "Shakespeare in Love" pattern?  I know you put it aside
> >when you started work on your pattern business, but did you ever get
> >back to it?
> >
> No, I never did.  First I was too busy, and now...well, I'm still too
> busy, but it also seems counterproductive to spend a lot of my time
> creating a webpage to help people use that pattern when, in my humble
> opinion, there's now a better option.  My patterns include all the
> construction details I thought were so nifty about the SIL pattern,
> but they also have properly cut bodices and a lot of other options as
> well.

Well, if you ever get around to making the gown you were planning 
but using *your* patterns you'll have to let us know.. the fabric and 
colour cominations sounded lovely...  fawn and green with gold 
trim, I believe?

Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 11:57:44 GMT
Status: RO

Rachel <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk> wrote :

> Answers for England:
> It is worth noting that this might change soon as the EU wants all member
> countries to move to an
> entirely metric system (clothing measurements included).

We will then tell the EU what they can do with their entirely metric system. Insisting on having measurements in cm *as well* I can understand, but making measurements in inches illegal is completely silly.

> Although most sewers I know, myself included,
> use imperial
> despite being taught metric at school!

Me too. Well, I was taught both at school, but the imperial system has more useful size units for most things.




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On Thu, 14 March 2002, webmaster@marquise.de wrote:


 i haven't seen any tools with inches on them in germany. i needed one for use with inch patterns, so i brought a double-sided ruler home from hong
> kong. 


I had a hard time looking for one in Finland. I finally found one -- yes, made in China.

Rulers here seem to be either 20 or 30 cm, and a "yardstick" is always 50 cm, so you need to measure twice for every metre of fabric. And the grid is 1 cm, with thicker lines in every 5 cm 
i think.

I'm used to the imperial system too, but I think only because i've been living in Korea, where they use it for measuring fabric, although they use metric system for basically everything else. In the beginning I always bought too little fabric, especially as they are not as wide as here (here 150 cm is the standard for all but very special 6 expensive fabrics).

Riina in Finland


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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 13:20:30 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

> We will then tell the EU what they can do with their entirely metric system. Insisting on having
> measurements in cm *as well* I can understand, but making measurements in inches illegal is
> completely silly.
> 
>

Well it didn't stop them with the weights and measures!  I still cook in pounds and ounces no
matter what brussels tells me otherwise.  Come to that I still ask for half a pound of meat at the
deli counter!

Rachel

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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 08:47:40 -0500
Status: RO



When I went to elementary school, in the 1970s, we had to learn the metric
system because "everything is going to change over in a few years." Same
thing in middle school. Same thing in high school. This year will be my
twentieth high school reunion, and the metric system here (US) is still
pretty much used only for technical things. Everyday stuff is the old way. I
wonder why that is?

Gail Finke
Who is 5ft. 2in.



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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 07:26:22 -0700
Status: RO

I remember that, too <g>
I think, maybe, the Powers That Be gave up....there may have been just
too much resistance to it.  And converting some stuff here in the U.S.
would have been a fiendish pain in the @ss. Acres and quarter-sections
and sections make a lot of sense based on feet and miles, but metric???
yee-gods.
--Sue, who has a job dealing with both Canadian and American clients, so
it gets interesting with the mileage measurements sometimes <g>

Gail & Scott Finke wrote:
> 
> When I went to elementary school, in the 1970s, we had to learn the metric
> system because "everything is going to change over in a few years." Same
> thing in middle school. Same thing in high school. This year will be my
> twentieth high school reunion, and the metric system here (US) is still
> pretty much used only for technical things. Everyday stuff is the old way. I
> wonder why that is?
> 
> Gail Finke
> Who is 5ft. 2in.
>
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 09:40:40 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Fri, 15 Mar 2002, Leif Drews wrote:

> I am in a totally freak embroidery koholic mood these days. i have a project in
> my head i want to do when i have finished my suit. And in an hour or so, you
> will find me again at the library at the Museum of Decorative Arts, drawing old
> embroidery motifs.................What is this going to end with?

It will end with more beautiful work for us to sigh over ... and more
ideas from you for more beautiful work to keep you busy!

--Robin


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Gridded pattern material (was dumb math)
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 08:31:46 -0600
Status: RO


> "gridded interfacing type stuff" ? Where can I get some of this?
>
> Mary/Katerine
In the states its on the same shelf as the interfacing.  I bought mine at
Joann's...a whole bolt when they had one of their 50% off interfacing sale.
It is very handy when re-styling patterns.  I use it to tape on a basic
bodice pattern that you know fits to the grided material and re-draw based
on a miniature gridded drawing such as you find in Janet Arnold's books.

Karen Verschoor
Houston, TX

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Date: 15 Mar 2002 07:20:14 -0800
Status: RO

On Fri, 15 March 2002, Jane Williams wrote:


> 
> Me too. Well, I was taught both at school, but the imperial system has more useful size units for most things.

What do you mean by more useful? I managed the first twenty-something years without the imperial units and they didn't make my life any easier when I had to start using them... It's what you're used to using in everyday life, not what you've been taught to use at school. This is not to say that I think the new EU regulations are anything but silly, just wondering
how imperial system could be more useful. For me, the thing I like in the metric system is that it's always very easy to calculate how much something changes when you change something else. The imperial system isn't very logical, if you're not used to it.


Riina
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns--Butterrick too
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 09:58:44 -0600
Status: RO

Hello All,

I went out yesterday and bought the new Butterick Victorian patterns. I
was wondering about the style of some of the elements given in both the
shirtwaist and skirt patterns. Later last night I was looking thru one of
my Victorian fashion books (Victorian and Edwardian Fashions from "La
Mode Illustree" Dover) and what should I spy on page #137 (1897) but a
selection of sleeves and skirts which contains two of the sleeves
designs, the lace collar, and one of the skirts! On the previous page
(#136) there is a small illustration of another of the skirts! I thought
that the pattern looked pretty good, but this is a much higher level of
authenticity than I was expecting. Now I don't know if the blouse body
pattern they have these items attached to are equally authentic, it looks
like a standard modern blouse body to me, but maybe others on the list
with more detailed knowledge of the period can address that issue. 



Karen
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 12:09:25 -0500
Status: RO

I grew up in the US, and moved to Canada only a few years ago, so the 
differences are quite fresh in my mind from the US perspective...

Yes, in Canada they have yardsticks and metersticks (usually a 
meterstick has the standard yard measurements as well).  They do sell 
12" and 6" rulers and most people here still don't refer to things in 
terms of meters (for fabric and construction anyway).  If you asked 
the average person how tall thier ceilings were, they would give it 
to you in feet, and how wide thier property is in yards, not in 
metric.  I would say that most here still don't really know the 
metric system as well as the empirial system -- if you asked someone 
how large a centimeter is here they often would show you with thier 
fingers something a little larger than a 1/2" *lol*

While the signposts all relate distance and speed limits in terms of 
kilometers, people would still say "She lives about 5 miles from 
here..."  I have only heard someone use Km to measure distance a hand 
full of times in 2 years. Obviously 30 or so years hasn't been enough 
to convertCanadians completely to the metric system (probably because 
we are so closely connected to the US -- geographically and 
economically)

Some places that sell fabric here price it by the meter, though have 
the per/yard price there as well.  Then again, some places still ONLY 
sell by the yard.  

As for drafting paper (for any purpose), I can only find it graded by 
the inch and increments of inches.  (Which makes it a REAL pain to 
convert UK pattern drafting books onto it! *lol*).

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From: "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: metric vs. Imperial
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 12:21:37 -0500
Status: RO

And in medicine - why is it that everything is metric, including baby's
birth weights, except height and weight in adults and older children? I've
been using metric at work for almost 20 years except for height and weight
( I usually work with adults), but use imperial at home and for sewing?  I
guess we are somewhat intermixed here in the US.
-Megan

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Sue Clemenger
Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 9:26 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: metric vs. Imperial


I remember that, too <g>
I think, maybe, the Powers That Be gave up....there may have been just
too much resistance to it.  And converting some stuff here in the U.S.
would have been a fiendish pain in the @ss. Acres and quarter-sections
and sections make a lot of sense based on feet and miles, but metric???
yee-gods.
--Sue, who has a job dealing with both Canadian and American clients, so
it gets interesting with the mileage measurements sometimes <g>

Gail & Scott Finke wrote:
>
> When I went to elementary school, in the 1970s, we had to learn the metric
> system because "everything is going to change over in a few years." Same
> thing in middle school. Same thing in high school. This year will be my
> twentieth high school reunion, and the metric system here (US) is still
> pretty much used only for technical things. Everyday stuff is the old way.
I
> wonder why that is?
>
> Gail Finke
> Who is 5ft. 2in.
>
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From: "Saragrace knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
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Subject: RE: Women who Ruled art exhibit (was Re: [h-cost] (Fabric question) weddingpictures
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 10:27:03 -0700
Status: RO

Thank you for pointing this out!  I just ordered my copy of the
catalogue.  It is going to Wesley (to excited to check the sp) college
in Massachusetts from Michigan.


**>one of the Bronzino portraits of Eleanor of Toledo.
**
**For those in the South-eastern Michigan area, there is 
**currently an exhibit 
**at the University of Michigan Art Museum on "Women who Ruled: Queens, 
**Goddesses, Amazons, 1500-1650."   It will be in Ann Arbor 
**until early May, 
**and then it will travel.
**
**http://www.umich.edu/~umma/women/
**
**There's the aforementioned Eleanora of Toledo portrait there, 
**an Elizabeth I 
**by George Gower, a Venus by Guido Reni, and a Judith by 
**Carravaggio, among 
**lots of others.  Lots of etchings, especially.
**
**The exhibit features women who were politically powerful 
**(Elizabeth, a 
**couple of the d'Medicis, Eleanora of Toledo, etc), as well as 
**other women 
**who were powerful and made an impact-- Joan of Arc, Judith, 
**Amazons, Helen 
**of Troy, Eve, etc -- and the way they portrayed in the 
**15th-16th centuries.
**
**I had a great time yesterday afternoon, having gone in as soon as the 
**exhibit opened and then had to be kicked out when the museum closed.
**
**Parsla
**
**
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From: "Jane Williams" <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 17:48:24 -0000
Status: RO

On 15 Mar 2002 at 7:20, riina vuokko wrote:

> On Fri, 15 March 2002, Jane Williams wrote:

> > Me too. Well, I was taught both at school, but the imperial system has more useful size units for most things.
> 
> What do you mean by more useful?

Not so much with length, but with weights. The ounce is a useful quantity when cooking: 
the gram is not. I might use a pound of one ingredient: I'm unlikely to use a kilo in home 
cooking.

Come to think of it, even with length: the foot is a nice-sized unit, and there's no metric 
thing of about that size.

Oh, and the decimal system has one real problem: dividing by three. A third of a yard is 
a foot: a third of a foot is four inches. A third of a metre is 33.3-recurring centimetres?
 No, give me base-12 any time. 


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From: "C.A.Critchell" <marmaeve@aros.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan Underthings
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 01:07:53 -0700
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Hello,

I was given referance to this list by Drea Leed and it has taken me some =
time to be able to make use of it.=20

In the west there is a SCA based competition called the "Golden Swan" =
for compleatness of Persona. I would like to enter, but knowing that the =
standards are as high as those of the "Tudor Guild" and as demanding as =
an Oxford Final examination, I wish to be as ready as possible.

On Drea's incredible site "the Elizabethan Costume Homepage" she goes in =
to wonderful detail about the Effigy corset. In that article she =
mentions drawers or underwear but beyond the citations mentioned for the =
corset she didn't have any for the drawers. I am looking for more =
information on Elizabethan Underwear, working on the Garb section of the =
Golden Swan from the inside out.

If there is anyone who can direct me towards any referant, I would =
appriecate it.

Respectfully,
C.A.Critchell
(If there are any errors of text or irritating passages, I hope you will =
excuse them. I'm Dyslexic and don't always put things across correctly.)



------=_NextPart_000_0233_01C1CBBD.D5D443C0
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<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Hello,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I was given referance to this list =
by Drea Leed=20
and it has taken me some time to be able to make use of it. =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>In the west there is a SCA based =
competition=20
called the &quot;Golden Swan&quot; for compleatness of Persona. I would =
like to=20
enter, but knowing that the standards are as high as those of the =
&quot;Tudor=20
Guild&quot; and as demanding as an Oxford Final examination, I wish to =
be as=20
ready as possible.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>On Drea's incredible site &quot;the =
Elizabethan=20
Costume Homepage&quot; she goes in to wonderful detail about the Effigy =
corset.=20
In that article she mentions drawers or underwear but beyond the =
citations=20
mentioned for the corset she didn't have any for the drawers. I am =
looking for=20
more information on Elizabethan Underwear, working on the Garb section =
of the=20
Golden Swan from the inside out.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>If there is anyone who can direct me =
towards any=20
referant, I would appriecate it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Respectfully,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>C.A.Critchell</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>(If there are any errors of text or =
irritating=20
passages, I hope you will excuse them. I'm Dyslexic and don't always put =
things=20
across correctly.)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0233_01C1CBBD.D5D443C0--

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Subject: [h-cost] Welsh Lady 1100
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 06:47:13 -0800
Status: RO

Greetings!
    I am trying to find information on costuming a lady from east Wales from
around 1100AD.  Heather Rose Jones has been recommended as a resourse but I
have no contact information.  If anyone could help with either the costume
or locating Heather I'd be very appreciative.
Gratefully,
Anne Howe
<nesnxtc@earthlink.net>

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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Linda Rice/ shopping
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 12:50:00 -0500
Status: RO

It's a conspiracy, but not by me.  One of our Joann's closed recently
too, and they did it very quietly and without much notice.  I assume
they simply sent their stock over to the other stores and never had a
sale or anything. We used to have 3 Joann's evenly distributed around
the city, now we have 2 at opposite ends of town.

What I don't understand is why?  Every time I went into that store, I
always had to wait in a line, sometimes a short one, sometimes really
long. There was never a lack of traffic, and there certainly wasn't any
real competition close by. It will certainly be missed in that
neighborhood.

Linda

-----Original Message-----
 Penny Ladnier
 
Yesterday I went to Joanne's... it is no longer there!!!  I went to
Fabric
Warehouse (a great warehouse for Hancock Fabrics).  It is no longer
there!!!!!!  


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 question) weddingpictures
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 13:27:35 -0500
Status: RO

>Thank you for pointing this out!  I just ordered my copy of the
>catalogue.  It is going to Wesley (to excited to check the sp) college
>in Massachusetts from Michigan.


you must mean either LESLEY College (not my first guess) or
WELLESLEY College -- more likely...

Sheila B

Sheila Beardslee Bosworth      sheilabb@earthlink.net

Editor, Boston Early Music News
Deadline March. 28 for April 15  issue
   for events April 15-May 31, 2002
 http://www.earlymusicboston.com
    /bemn   for CALENDAR
    /Pavane  for Pavane Renaissance Dance Ensemble
    /brs/brs/  for Boston Recorder Society

29 Main Street, Acton MA 01720-3505
VOX  978/263.9926      FAX  978/263.2366




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From: "Ulrika A. O'Brien" <uaobrien@uci.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 10:36:29 -0800
Status: RO

At 09:48 AM 3/15/2002, Jane Williams wrote:
>Not so much with length, but with weights. The ounce is a useful quantity 
>when cooking:
>the gram is not. I might use a pound of one ingredient: I'm unlikely to 
>use a kilo in home cooking.

But, at least in Sweden, it's common to use an intermediate unit:
the hectogram: 100 grams, which is a perfectly useful and convenient
size.  I think the claim of superior usefulness for Imperial measures
is just nonsensical, and a matter of what you're used to.


>Come to think of it, even with length: the foot is a nice-sized unit, and 
>there's no metric thing of about that size.


Nice sized is a matter of personal preference.  A decimeter is a
perfectly "nice sized" unit, too.




  Ulrika O'Brien
  English & Comparative Literature
  University of California, Irvine
  435 Humanities Instructional Building
  (949) 824-6712


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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 19:16:03 +0100
Status: RO

In Norway, I'd say that hardly anyone uses imperial measurements; most
people don't know that an inch is about 2.54 cm, for example, or that
there are twelve inches in a foot. We learn that in school and promptly
forget it. :) There's also the archaic Norwegian measurement system, but
to be honest I don't know it very well, and have no idea how it
corresponds to the imperial system - if at all. "Tomme" should equal an
inch, and carpenters and such use something called a "tommestokk" -
literally, inch stick - which are hinged flat sticks that can fold out
to 2 meters long and fold down to about 30 cm. Oddly enough, the inch
sticks are often also only marked with centimeters - or maybe they have
inches as well. I've misplaced mine so I can't check.

I've only occasionally been able to find measuring tape with inches as
well as centimeters - most measuring tapes have centimeters on both
sides, with all the millimeters marked. Some have no extra markings on
ome side and stronger lines every 10 cm on the reverse side. When we buy
fabric there's usually a ruler sunk into the desk, but meter sticks and
half-meter sticks are also fairly widely used. Gridded drafting paper
for patterns I've never seen, but then I haven't looked either. Now I
want it though!

Norwegians are so used to the metric system that using anything else
seems very strange and counterintuitive. Please note, though, that I
have no formal sewing education, and that there may be professional
practices that I don't know about.


Ingrid
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From: "Saragrace knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: Women who Ruled art exhibit (was Re: [h-cost] (Fabric question) weddingpictures
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 11:48:10 -0700
Status: RO

Yes, you are correct!  (now calmed down enough to see she spelled "too"
wrong also!)

**-----Original Message-----
**From: h-costume-admin@indra.com 
**[mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On Behalf Of sheilabb@earthlink.net
**Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 11:28 AM
**To: h-costume@indra.com
**Subject: RE: Women who Ruled art exhibit (was Re: [h-cost] 
**(Fabric question) weddingpictures
**
**
**>Thank you for pointing this out!  I just ordered my copy of the 
**>catalogue.  It is going to Wesley (to excited to check the 
**sp) college 
**>in Massachusetts from Michigan.
**
**
**you must mean either LESLEY College (not my first guess) or 
**WELLESLEY College -- more likely...
**
**Sheila B
**
**Sheila Beardslee Bosworth      sheilabb@earthlink.net
**
**Editor, Boston Early Music News
**Deadline March. 28 for April 15  issue
**   for events April 15-May 31, 2002  http://www.earlymusicboston.com
**    /bemn   for CALENDAR
**    /Pavane  for Pavane Renaissance Dance Ensemble
**    /brs/brs/  for Boston Recorder Society
**
**29 Main Street, Acton MA 01720-3505
**VOX  978/263.9926      FAX  978/263.2366
**
**
**
**
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 10:56:21 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

>It is going to Wesley (to excited to check the sp)
>college in Massachusetts from Michigan.


My Lady, could you tell me where you found the list of
where the exhibit is going?  I looked through the site
to see how close it would get to D.C. and couldn't
find the information anywhere.

Thanks,

Orlaith


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Subject: [h-cost] Things you fantasize about doing in costume.
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 11:52:48 -0700
Status: RO

Okay now I know this is really silly, but I just thought it might be fun
to ask.  Does anyone else fantasize about doing things in their costumes
(finished, planned or also just dreamed about)?  You know, like riding
down your ex and whacking his head off with a sword?

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From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Underthings
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 10:50:20 -0800
Status: RO

At 01:07 AM 03/15/2002 -0700, C.A.Critchell wrote:
>she goes in to wonderful detail about the Effigy corset.  In that article
>she mentions drawers or underwear but beyond the citations  mentioned for
>the corset she didn't have any for the drawers. 

I heard Jean Hunnisett lecture last year, and during her lecture she showed
a slide of the Effigy in its undies.  She's of the opinion that the drawers
were not period, but were added, probably when the effigy was redressed
during the 18th century, to hold padding in place or to provide a surface
to pin to. (the Effigy body is made of wood). 

I tend to agree with her.  From the photo they looked like puffy  shorts
with a drawstring around the top and some sort of gathering at the leg
openings, I couldn't see what.  The legs were quite short, to the upper
thigh.  They were plain fabric with no decoration.  The most telling part
was that they quite obviously did not fit the effigy, being way too short
in the crotch, with the drawstring "waist" sitting about where a pair of
modern bikinis would, and with the fabric at the crotch area strained and
pulling. They would have been quite uncomfortable on a human body, as well
as precarious.  

As far as I can tell, the evidence is still that Elizabethan women did not
wear underpants.  We can't prove they didn't, but so far, no one's proved
they did. 

Margo 
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Things you fantasize about doing in costume.
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 11:26:45 -0800
Status: RO

Someday I want to make a wardrobe and do a riverboat tour-y kind of thing 
fully in costume the whole trip.  I also fell in love with the idea of doing 
a European Castle tour in full garb.  Most of the time I just go to dinner 
or shopping in misc. pieces of my costumes.  Whatever is clean works for me. 
  ;}

Jennifer

PS.  I'm getting my web page back up slowly.  If you want to check it out go 
to http://www.teleport.com/~cedric/distdesi   It will take a while to get 
all the glitches out, but I'm back online and ready for sewing.


>From: "Saragrace knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Things you fantasize about doing in costume.
>Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 11:52:48 -0700
>
>Okay now I know this is really silly, but I just thought it might be fun
>to ask.  Does anyone else fantasize about doing things in their costumes
>(finished, planned or also just dreamed about)?  You know, like riding
>down your ex and whacking his head off with a sword?
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume







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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 14:40:06 -0500
Status: RO

--=====================_23402629==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 12:05 PM 3/15/02 -0700, you wrote:
>Okay now I know this is really silly, but I just thought it might be fun
>to ask.  Does anyone else fantasize about doing things in their costumes
>(finished, planned or also just dreamed about)?  You know, like riding
>down your ex and whacking his head off with a sword?

*sheepish grin, raising hand*  Heck yes?  It's rather funny, actually... 
the local hack stable lets me use their horses in my photo shoots whenever 
I want.. they're pretty cool about the whole thing since I no longer have 
horses of my own *sigh*.  There's a black Percheron/Belgian mare there that 
I periodically drape in caparisons and ride in full kit on, so anybody on a 
guided trail ride gets a huge start when they see a fully-garbed medieval 
personage pounding through the woods *grin*.  Heck they even let me bring 
my own weaponry and ride with it.  Wonder if they'd consider selling that 
mare... hmmm.....


Victoria Wickens
Lady Victoria's Castle Closet
http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html
Gallery: http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/castle-creations/


--=====================_23402629==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
At 12:05 PM 3/15/02 -0700, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>Okay now I know this is really
silly, but I just thought it might be fun<br>
to ask.&nbsp; Does anyone else fantasize about doing things in their
costumes<br>
(finished, planned or also just dreamed about)?&nbsp; You know, like
riding<br>
down your ex and whacking his head off with a sword?</blockquote><br>
*sheepish grin, raising hand*&nbsp; Heck yes?&nbsp; It's rather funny,
actually... the local hack stable lets me use their horses in my photo
shoots whenever I want.. they're pretty cool about the whole thing since
I no longer have horses of my own *sigh*.&nbsp; There's a black
Percheron/Belgian mare there that I periodically drape in caparisons and
ride in full kit on, so anybody on a guided trail ride gets a huge start
when they see a fully-garbed medieval personage pounding through the
woods *grin*.&nbsp; Heck they even let me bring my own weaponry and ride
with it.&nbsp; Wonder if they'd consider selling that mare...
hmmm.....<br>
<br>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
Victoria Wickens<br>
Lady Victoria's Castle Closet<br>
<a href="http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html" eudora="autourl">http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.</a><a href="http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html" eudora="autourl">html<br>
</a><font size=4>Gallery:
<a href="http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/castle-creations/" eudora="autourl">http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/castle-creations/</a><br>
<br>
</font></html>

--=====================_23402629==_.ALT--

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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Women who Ruled art exhibit-(Where it is going from Michicgan)
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 12:43:55 -0700
Status: RO

I talked to someone in the Museum store when I was ordering the exhibit
catalogue.  I also asked for the curator's (Ann Dixon) email to confirm
the schedule.  I will post it as soon as I hear back from her.

**-----Original Message-----
**From: h-costume-admin@indra.com 
**[mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On Behalf Of Nelson Beth
**Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 11:56 AM
**To: h-costume@indra.com
**Subject: [h-cost] RE: Women who Ruled art exhibit
**
**
**>It is going to Wesley (to excited to check the sp)
**>college in Massachusetts from Michigan.
**
**
**My Lady, could you tell me where you found the list of
**where the exhibit is going?  I looked through the site
**to see how close it would get to D.C. and couldn't
**find the information anywhere.
**
**Thanks,
**
**Orlaith
**
**
**__________________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Mar 15 16:48:21 2002
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From: Joan Garner <joan_the_harpist1119@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Things you fantasize about doing in costume.
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 12:35:45 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Well, I sometimes think, since I spend most of my
waking hours at the office, that I would like to turn
my office into a time-travel portal.  I would do as
much "Medieval-esque" decorating as I could get away
with and wear my comfy gunnas & T-tunics.  Just a
fantasy, of course -- I'd never be allowed to do it.

Iohanna the Harper
[Joan Hall]

Another fantasy -- I get the same salary I get for
admin. assistant work to just stroll around campus in
garb and play my harp.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 13:00:02 -0800
Status: RO

> >Come to think of it, even with length: the foot is a nice-sized unit, and
> >there's no metric thing of about that size.
>
> Nice sized is a matter of personal preference.  A decimeter is a
> perfectly "nice sized" unit, too.

Yes, but much harder to pace off across the floor when getting rough
dimensions...  :)

Dan

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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 15:02:02 -0600
Status: RO

Greetings,

I've always wanted to learn to ride side-saddle so I can wear a Regency 
riding habit and go for a gallop in Hyde park... : )

Cheers,
Danielle

At 11:52 AM 3/15/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>Okay now I know this is really silly, but I just thought it might be fun
>to ask.  Does anyone else fantasize about doing things in their costumes
>(finished, planned or also just dreamed about)?  You know, like riding
>down your ex and whacking his head off with a sword?




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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 14:03:31 -0700
Status: RO

**I've always wanted to learn to ride side-saddle so I can wear ...Oh me
too.

You guys make me ashamed of myself.  I want to wear a mask and walk the
streets like Queen Margo!!!  Blush-yeah right!  ;} (Evil grin)


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 13:23:01 -0800
Status: RO

At 01:00 PM 3/15/2002, you wrote:
> > >Come to think of it, even with length: the foot is a nice-sized unit, and
> > >there's no metric thing of about that size.
> >
> > Nice sized is a matter of personal preference.  A decimeter is a
> > perfectly "nice sized" unit, too.
>
>Yes, but much harder to pace off across the floor when getting rough
>dimensions...  :)

Depends on the size of your feet!  I know men who have foot-long
feet, but lots of women might well be no closer to a foot than
a decimeter.




  Ulrika O'Brien
  English & Comparative Literature
  University of California, Irvine
  435 Humanities Instructional Building
  (949) 824-6712


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Things you fantasize about doing in costume.
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 15:32:52 -0600
Status: RO

At 02:03 PM 3/15/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>**I've always wanted to learn to ride side-saddle so I can wear ...Oh me
>too.
>
>You guys make me ashamed of myself.  I want to wear a mask and walk the
>streets like Queen Margo!!!  Blush-yeah right!  ;} (Evil grin)

LOL!  That would be a lot of fun too... <G>

Cheers,
Danielle

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Underthings
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 14:35:04 -0800
Status: RO


>As far as I can tell, the evidence is still that Elizabethan women did not
>wear underpants.  We can't prove they didn't, but so far, no one's proved
>they did.

Apparently they show up in the inventories of Mary Queen of Scots, so at 
least some 'Elizabethan' women wore them.


Kayta
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 14:38:14 -0800
Status: RO


>Whatever is clean works for me.  ;}

Interesting - nothing I fantasize about doing, in historical costume, gets 
better than an 'R' rating.

Kayta
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From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Welsh Lady 1100
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 12:21:31 -0800
Status: RO

At 6:47 AM -0800 3/15/02, Anne Howe wrote:
>Greetings!
>     I am trying to find information on costuming a lady from east Wales from
>around 1100AD.  Heather Rose Jones has been recommended as a resourse but I
>have no contact information.  If anyone could help with either the costume
>or locating Heather I'd be very appreciative.

You rang?

I don't know how much immediately practical use I'm going to be, 
though.  My short answer is: "Read my booklet 'Medieval Welsh 
Clothing to 1300' ... if you can track down a copy."  It's a 
compilation and analysis of all the information I could find at the 
time on the topic.  Unfortunately there are only a very few people 
who sell it for me, and I've sworn off doing my own retailing until 
the dissertation is finished.  The long answer is contained in the 
booklet itself.  The medium-length answer boils down to something 
like "they seem to have been wearing clothing not vastly different 
from what other people in the northwestern corner of Europe were 
wearing, with a slight predilection for rectangular rather than 
rounded cloaks, and quite probably showing an overall lower average 
standard of living than some of their neighbors.

The main problem is that there isn't a lot of available data -- 
little to nothing in the way of archaeological material, extremely 
little surviving visual art reflecting native styles, written 
descriptions that are either directly fictional (the romances) or 
lump together a hodge-podge of periods (legal texts) or are the 
observations of outsiders with a political agenda (Giraldus 
Cambrensis).  There's a lot of sifting, filtering, and extrapolating 
to do, and it still comes down to "not vastly different from their 
neighbors".

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Welsh Lady 1100
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 12:21:31 -0800
Status: RO

At 6:47 AM -0800 3/15/02, Anne Howe wrote:
>Greetings!
>     I am trying to find information on costuming a lady from east Wales from
>around 1100AD.  Heather Rose Jones has been recommended as a resourse but I
>have no contact information.  If anyone could help with either the costume
>or locating Heather I'd be very appreciative.

You rang?

I don't know how much immediately practical use I'm going to be, 
though.  My short answer is: "Read my booklet 'Medieval Welsh 
Clothing to 1300' ... if you can track down a copy."  It's a 
compilation and analysis of all the information I could find at the 
time on the topic.  Unfortunately there are only a very few people 
who sell it for me, and I've sworn off doing my own retailing until 
the dissertation is finished.  The long answer is contained in the 
booklet itself.  The medium-length answer boils down to something 
like "they seem to have been wearing clothing not vastly different 
from what other people in the northwestern corner of Europe were 
wearing, with a slight predilection for rectangular rather than 
rounded cloaks, and quite probably showing an overall lower average 
standard of living than some of their neighbors.

The main problem is that there isn't a lot of available data -- 
little to nothing in the way of archaeological material, extremely 
little surviving visual art reflecting native styles, written 
descriptions that are either directly fictional (the romances) or 
lump together a hodge-podge of periods (legal texts) or are the 
observations of outsiders with a political agenda (Giraldus 
Cambrensis).  There's a lot of sifting, filtering, and extrapolating 
to do, and it still comes down to "not vastly different from their 
neighbors".

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 14:42:53 -0800
Status: RO

At 02:35 PM 03/15/2002 -0800, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
>
>>As far as I can tell, the evidence is still that Elizabethan women did not
>>wear underpants.  We can't prove they didn't, but so far, no one's proved
>>they did.
>
>Apparently they show up in the inventories of Mary Queen of Scots, so at 
>least some 'Elizabethan' women wore them.

Where can I find these inventories?

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 10:18:22 -0800
Status: RO



"Ulrika A. O'Brien" wrote:

> At 01:00 PM 3/15/2002, you wrote:
> > > >Come to think of it, even with length: the foot is a nice-sized unit, and
> > > >there's no metric thing of about that size.
> > >
> > > Nice sized is a matter of personal preference.  A decimeter is a
> > > perfectly "nice sized" unit, too.
> >
> >Yes, but much harder to pace off across the floor when getting rough
> >dimensions...  :)
>
> Depends on the size of your feet!  I know men who have foot-long
> feet, but lots of women might well be no closer to a foot than
> a decimeter.
>
>

True - my feet are 8" long at best, but my handspan is almost exactly 20cm
which is very handy (pun intended) :-P
Claire


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Subject: [h-cost] Curators Response to:Women who Ruled art exhibit-(Where it is going from Michicgan)
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 16:07:35 -0700
Status: RO

-----Original Message-----
From: Annette Dixon [mailto:adixon@umich.edu] 
Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 3:57 PM
To: saragrace@earthlink.net
Subject: Re: Women Who Ruled-Exhibit in other cities scheduled?


Hello,
The exhibition will be at the Davis Museum and Cultural Center at
Wellesley College, Wellesley, Massachusetts from Sept. 14 to Dec. 8.
2002. That's the only venue besides Ann Arbor,Michigan.
You're welcome!
All best,
Annette Dixon


Hi, I just ordered my catalogue and was wondering if you knew the
schedule for the exhibit.  I understand it is going to Massachusetts
later in the year.  Is it going anywhere else?   (Please, Please,
Please, Phoenix AZ!!!)

Thank you so much for putting this together!!

Saragrace T. Knauf

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From: "Saragrace knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Elizabethan Underthings
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 16:19:14 -0700
Status: RO

I wonder if we could get Drea to look in her database of Mary Tudor's
inventories.  I tried to do it myself, but the selection for underwear
isn't there (no chemise, smocks, etc either).  Though I would have
thought Drea would have published it widely if some tasty morsel like
this showed up.  I wouldn't be surprised if such inventories existed for
MQOS though.  I read the biography of Bess of Hardwick recently and she
kept meticulous records.  Since her hubby was tasked with supporting
MQOS (often at his own expense) and always asking ' Liz for more money
to do so, I bet they kept close track of it.  Whether it is readily
available is another question.  

Lets take a trip to England and look-:}

**-----Original Message-----
**From: h-costume-admin@indra.com 
**[mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On Behalf Of Margo Anderson
**Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 3:43 PM
**To: h-costume@indra.com; h-costume@indra.com
**Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Underthings
**
**
**At 02:35 PM 03/15/2002 -0800, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
**>
**>>As far as I can tell, the evidence is still that 
**Elizabethan women did 
**>>not wear underpants.  We can't prove they didn't, but so 
**far, no one's 
**>>proved they did.
**>
**>Apparently they show up in the inventories of Mary Queen of 
**Scots, so 
**>at
**>least some 'Elizabethan' women wore them.
**
**Where can I find these inventories?
**
**Margo
**"One Tough Costumer"
**
**
**See the Historic Costume Patterns website at 
**margospatterns.com _______________________________________________
**h-costume mailing list
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 16:02:31 -0800
Status: RO


> >>As far as I can tell, the evidence is still that Elizabethan women did not
> >>wear underpants.  We can't prove they didn't, but so far, no one's proved
> >>they did.
> >
> >Apparently they show up in the inventories of Mary Queen of Scots, so at
> >least some 'Elizabethan' women wore them.
>
>Where can I find these inventories?

No idea.  This is mentioned in 'The Embroidery of Mary Queen of Scots', and 
there may be a bibliographical note in the back about where the actual 
inventories are.  I remember this bit of trivia, but no longer own the book.

Kayta
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 19:11:52 -0500
Status: RO

I think Drea is still off-list.  So you might want to write her personally.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 16:51:57 -0800
Status: RO


> Apparently they show up in the inventories of Mary Queen of Scots, so
> at least some 'Elizabethan' women wore them.

But Mary was far more French than English and she was also one 
of the women considered scandalous (much like the d'Este sisters 
when they started wearing them in Italy.) So, even if they showed 
up, it didn't mean that *Elizabethan" (ie English) women wore them.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Underthings
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 16:51:57 -0800
Status: RO


> At 01:07 AM 03/15/2002 -0700, C.A.Critchell wrote:
> >she goes in to wonderful detail about the Effigy corset.  In that
> >article she mentions drawers or underwear but beyond the citations 
> >mentioned for the corset she didn't have any for the drawers. 
> 
> I heard Jean Hunnisett lecture last year, and during her lecture she
> showed a slide of the Effigy in its undies.  She's of the opinion that
> the drawers were not period, but were added, probably when the effigy
> was redressed during the 18th century, to hold padding in place or to
> provide a surface to pin to. (the Effigy body is made of wood). 
> 
> I tend to agree with her.  From the photo they looked like puffy 
> shorts with a drawstring around the top and some sort of gathering at
> the leg openings, I couldn't see what.  The legs were quite short, to
> the upper thigh.  They were plain fabric with no decoration.  The most
> telling part was that they quite obviously did not fit the effigy,
> being way too short in the crotch, with the drawstring "waist" sitting
> about where a pair of modern bikinis would, and with the fabric at the
> crotch area strained and pulling. They would have been quite
> uncomfortable on a human body, as well as precarious.  

After seeing them in person, I strongly felt that these could not 
have been Elizabeth's undies, for the reasons Margo mentioned. 
Also, the weren't in the style of the known Italian women's 
underwear. They looked like they were meant for a child to wear 
and much more like the drawers I've seen for 18th century stuff. 
The front didn't even close but sat much like my old cords which 
were about 10 sizes too small fit when I tried to pull them on.

We must keep in mind that when the effigy was redressed, they 
put *panniers* beneath the skirts of the dress which never would 
have been worn with the dress. If they could do that, they certainly 
weren't above putting a pair of drawers they were familiar with on it!

We do know that some women in this time period did wear undies. 
They are discussed in some of the men's travel letters as being 
shocking and that their (English) women wouldn't do such a thing.

For some reason, modern women can't believe that *anyone* could 
go without underpanties. However, in some cultures they weren't 
worn even into the beginning of the 20th Century (and don't say 
"well, they must have been thin" because the Samoan women I'm 
thinking of were anything but thin, and they lived in a very sweaty 
environment. Same thing but with colder weather for the Russian 
peasant women.) 


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linda Rice/ shopping
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 19:47:52 -0500
Status: RO

Bjarne,

You can come visit me.  I'd love to show you some of the lovely embroidered
pieces in museums here.  There is a late 1700s gown that has 15-20 floral
bouquets on it at the Valentine.  Each bouquet is different.  Just stunning.
Some of my favorite embroidered fabrics are in the Colonial Williamsburg
collection.  My jaw dropped when they opened the archives of fabric.  Some
of history's best kept secrets are archived in museums.  Some haven't seen
the light of day in decades.

Will I take Linda to see these things... no!  They might disappear.  LOL!!
I know Bjarne will only sketch the designs not ***borrow*** the fabrics.

BTW, Linda... do you have a thing for E.A. Poe too???  His items come up
missing for the collections in Richmond occasionally.  Were you the person
who took Poe's statue a few years ago and left it at the Raven Bar?

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Linda Rice/ shopping
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 20:03:35 -0500
Status: RO

Penny, I have only one thing to say about that, 

Nevermore!

And Penny is right, we are extremely fortunate to live in a place with
so much wonderful history at our fingertips.  It may not be Merry Old
Europe, but it's still got a lot to keep you busy!

Linda

-----Original Message-----
 On Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
 
Bjarne,

You can come visit me.  I'd love to show you some of the lovely
embroidered
pieces in museums here.  There is a late 1700s gown that has 15-20
floral
bouquets on it at the Valentine.  Each bouquet is different.  Just
stunning.
Some of my favorite embroidered fabrics are in the Colonial Williamsburg
collection.  My jaw dropped when they opened the archives of fabric.
Some
of history's best kept secrets are archived in museums.  Some haven't
seen
the light of day in decades.

Will I take Linda to see these things... no!  They might disappear.
LOL!!
I know Bjarne will only sketch the designs not ***borrow*** the fabrics.

BTW, Linda... do you have a thing for E.A. Poe too???  His items come up
missing for the collections in Richmond occasionally.  Were you the
person
who took Poe's statue a few years ago and left it at the Raven Bar?

Penny Ladnier



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Underthings
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 19:07:28 -0800
Status: RO


> > Apparently they show up in the inventories of Mary Queen of Scots, so
> > at least some 'Elizabethan' women wore them.
>
>But Mary was far more French than English and she was also one
>of the women considered scandalous (much like the d'Este sisters
>when they started wearing them in Italy.) So, even if they showed
>up, it didn't mean that *Elizabethan" (ie English) women wore them.

You missed the part where I put Elizabethan in ' ' marks.  While Mary Queen 
of Scots did live in England at the right time, she probably learned about 
under-drawers from her 'French' mother-in-law who was, I believe, Marie de 
Medici, an Italian.  So I can't believe MQoS was the only woman in all of 
England and France who wore under-drawers.  I agree they were way uncommon, 
and I'm not taking bets on how many others wore them, but certainly there 
were a few - not all 'Elizabethan' women were English.

Kayta
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 23:03:21 -0500
Status: RO

Yes! I would love to wear full 16th century nobles and do a castle tour
of France and Germany. The cutting off my ex's head with my rapier would
be a bonus. But thats another fantasy.

Di
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Hi Victoria-I almost missed your post-are you able to change your
subject line?  . What a hoot.  We could probably start a whole 'nother
email list on horses used for recreation.  I haven't done it yet, not
for lack of naggers-got 4 too many horses as it is.  Do you have any
good sources for equestrian stuff?  Where do you live?
 
oooh aaahh, percheron/belgian.-yum.  My sister is raising a belgian
polish arab mix.  I want a Friesian!!  
 
Oh, yeah-costume stuff-Great pictures on your site.  No horsy pictures
though-ooops this is the costume list!
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Victoria Wickens
Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 12:40 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume digest, Vol 1 #793 - 9 msgs



At 12:05 PM 3/15/02 -0700, you wrote:


Okay now I know this is really silly, but I just thought it might be fun
to ask.  Does anyone else fantasize about doing things in their costumes
(finished, planned or also just dreamed about)?  You know, like riding
down your ex and whacking his head off with a sword?


*sheepish grin, raising hand*  Heck yes?  It's rather funny, actually...
the local hack stable lets me use their horses in my photo shoots
whenever I want.. they're pretty cool about the whole thing since I no
longer have horses of my own *sigh*.  There's a black Percheron/Belgian
mare there that I periodically drape in caparisons and ride in full kit
on, so anybody on a guided trail ride gets a huge start when they see a
fully-garbed medieval personage pounding through the woods *grin*.  Heck
they even let me bring my own weaponry and ride with it.  Wonder if
they'd consider selling that mare... hmmm.....



Victoria Wickens
Lady Victoria's Castle Closet
http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.
<http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html> html
<http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html> 
Gallery: http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/castle-creations/




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<DIV><FONT face=3DBatang color=3D#800000 size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D200520404-16032002>Hi=20
Victoria-I almost missed your post-are you able to change your subject=20
line?&nbsp; .&nbsp;What a hoot.&nbsp; We could probably start a whole =
'nother=20
email list on horses used for recreation.&nbsp; I haven't done it yet, =
not for=20
lack of naggers-got 4 too many horses as it is.&nbsp; Do you have any =
good=20
sources for equestrian stuff?&nbsp; Where do you =
live?</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DBatang color=3D#800000 size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D200520404-16032002></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DBatang color=3D#800000 size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D200520404-16032002>oooh=20
aaahh, percheron/belgian.-yum.&nbsp; My sister is raising a belgian =
polish arab=20
mix.&nbsp; I want a Friesian!!&nbsp; </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DBatang color=3D#800000 size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D200520404-16032002></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DBatang color=3D#800000 size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D200520404-16032002>Oh,=20
yeah-costume stuff-Great pictures on your site.&nbsp; No horsy pictures=20
though-ooops this is the costume list!</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DTahoma size=3D2>-----Original =
Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>=20
h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] <B>On =
Behalf Of=20
</B>Victoria Wickens<BR><B>Sent:</B> Friday, March 15, 2002 12:40=20
PM<BR><B>To:</B> h-costume@indra.com<BR><B>Subject:</B> [h-cost] Re: =
h-costume=20
digest, Vol 1 #793 - 9 msgs<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #800000 2px =
solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">At=20
  12:05 PM 3/15/02 -0700, you wrote:<BR>
  <BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dcite cite=3D"" type=3D"cite">Okay now I know this =
is really=20
    silly, but I just thought it might be fun<BR>to ask.&nbsp; Does =
anyone else=20
    fantasize about doing things in their costumes<BR>(finished, planned =
or also=20
    just dreamed about)?&nbsp; You know, like riding<BR>down your ex and =

    whacking his head off with a sword?</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>*sheepish grin, =
raising=20
  hand*&nbsp; Heck yes?&nbsp; It's rather funny, actually... the local =
hack=20
  stable lets me use their horses in my photo shoots whenever I want.. =
they're=20
  pretty cool about the whole thing since I no longer have horses of my =
own=20
  *sigh*.&nbsp; There's a black Percheron/Belgian mare there that I =
periodically=20
  drape in caparisons and ride in full kit on, so anybody on a guided =
trail ride=20
  gets a huge start when they see a fully-garbed medieval personage =
pounding=20
  through the woods *grin*.&nbsp; Heck they even let me bring my own =
weaponry=20
  and ride with it.&nbsp; Wonder if they'd consider selling that mare... =

  hmmm.....<BR><BR><X-SIGSEP>
  <P></X-SIGSEP>Victoria Wickens<BR>Lady Victoria's Castle Closet<BR><A=20
  href=3D"http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html"=20
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eudora=3D"autourl">http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/castle-creations/</A><BR><BR=
></FONT></P></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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When I was at the natural history museum in Chicago a few weeks ago I
saw this incredible 
Eskimo 'suit' of eider down duck.  This  was  obviously made of a  hid e
of  feathers.    Does  anyone have any sources that might have
information about how to tan a hide so that the feathers would stay put?

 
Can you imagine a collar of 'breast of pheasant' or 'peacock'?

 


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I was at the natural history museum in Chicago&nbsp;a few weeks ago I =
saw this=20
incredible </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DBatang color=3D#800000 size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D190461804-16032002>Eskimo 'suit' of eider down duck.&nbsp; =
This&nbsp;=20
was&nbsp; obviously made of a&nbsp; hid e of&nbsp; =
feathers.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
Does&nbsp; anyone have any sources that might have information about how =
to tan=20
a hide so that the feathers would stay put?&nbsp; </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DBatang color=3D#800000 size=3D2><SPAN=20
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 14:46:54 -0800
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At 1:00 PM -0800 3/15/02, Daniel Fenwick wrote:
>  > >Come to think of it, even with length: the foot is a nice-sized unit, and
>>  >there's no metric thing of about that size.
>>
>>  Nice sized is a matter of personal preference.  A decimeter is a
>>  perfectly "nice sized" unit, too.
>
>Yes, but much harder to pace off across the floor when getting rough
>dimensions...  :)

Not everyone's foot is a foot.  Not everyone's stride is a yard.  I 
like decimeters because the width of my palm is one.  I don't use 
them much, but I like them.

Heather
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From: Sheila <turrel@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Underthings
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> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Underthings
> Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com

> No idea.  This is mentioned in 'The Embroidery of
> Mary Queen of Scots', and 
> there may be a bibliographical note in the back
> about where the actual 
> inventories are.  I remember this bit of trivia, but
> no longer own the book.

  Don't suppose you remember who wrote or published
it?  I can't seem to find it at amazon or bookfinder.

Sheila

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "tanning" hides of feathers
In-Reply-To: <000201c1cca2$c140c420$6501a8c0@phoenix.speedchoice.com>
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 20:43:42 -0800
Status: RO

I had a room mate once who worked in the kitchen at a casino restaurant.
They had a "wild game night" when they served ducks and pheasants raised on
the owner's estate.  One of the chefs taught my friend how to skin a bird,
and to bury  the "hide" in a box of salt for a few weeks.  They came out
reasonably pliable, and not at all stinky.  I used some of the feathers to
make feather earrings and hatbands (hey, it was the 70's, after all).  

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Mar 16 01:27:22 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Victoria Wickens <windsong@broadviewnet.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Horses and Costumes
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 00:20:36 -0500
Status: RO

--=====================_58238883==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 09:35 PM 3/15/02 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi Victoria-I almost missed your post-are you able to change your
>subject line?  .

Yeah, but I just got lazy *grin*.  My apologies.

>  What a hoot.  We could probably start a whole 'nother
>email list on horses used for recreation.

Oooo, I always wanted to do that *grin*  thankfully Himself (the hubby) is 
into horses as well, but he does ACW *sigh* and I do MUCH earlier stuff 
*grin*.  I'm game, or we can chat offlist if you like!!

>I haven't done it yet, not
>for lack of naggers-got 4 too many horses as it is.

Ooo? *perking*  Do any of them need a good home? *hopeful look*

>Do you have any
>good sources for equestrian stuff?  Where do you live?

Central NY, smack-dab in the middle of Syracuse and Rochester, and it 
depends on what you mean by Equestrian Stuff.  I make my own caparisons, 
usually mountable over an English or a MacClellan saddle, and I sometimes 
use the horse's regular bridle if I cannot manage to rig one that matches 
the rest of the caparisons.  Stateline Tack is about an hour and change 
from me, in Brockport.

>  oooh aaahh, percheron/belgian.-yum.  My sister is raising a belgian
>polish arab mix.  I want a Friesian!!

Oooo, me too!!!  *grin*  I got a pic somewhere of me and Belle (that's her 
name, but I affectionately call her Tank, because of her propensity for 
taking down small trees as we dash madly through the forest) if you'd like 
to see it... nothing of us in garb though, as the last stuff I made was for 
a much smaller horse, and the velvet caparisons are on the back burner for 
now *sigh*

>  Oh, yeah-costume stuff-Great pictures on your site.  No horsy pictures
>though-ooops this is the costume list!

*grin*  Thank you and hopefully soon if I can light a fire under my 
webmistress... have more pics to scan of other outfits I've done and I do 
have SOME shots of the Horseman's Cloak, but they aren't the greatest 
quality.  If you want to see them, I can email them to you.  Now to find 
another web-pointing service that's not going to charge me through the 
nose.  If anyone has any ideas, email them to me offlist, please?


Victoria Wickens
Lady Victoria's Castle Closet
http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html
Gallery: http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/castle-creations/


--=====================_58238883==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
At 09:35 PM 3/15/02 -0700, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>Hi Victoria-I almost missed your
post-are you able to change your<br>
subject line?&nbsp; .</blockquote><br>
Yeah, but I just got lazy *grin*.&nbsp; My apologies.<br>
<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>&nbsp;What a hoot.&nbsp; We could
probably start a whole 'nother<br>
email list on horses used for recreation.&nbsp; </blockquote><br>
Oooo, I always wanted to do that *grin*&nbsp; thankfully Himself (the
hubby) is into horses as well, but he does ACW *sigh* and I do MUCH
earlier stuff *grin*.&nbsp; I'm game, or we can chat offlist if you
like!!<br>
<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>I haven't done it yet, not<br>
for lack of naggers-got 4 too many horses as it is.&nbsp;
</blockquote><br>
Ooo? *perking*&nbsp; Do any of them need a good home? *hopeful 
look*<br>
<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>Do you have any<br>
good sources for equestrian stuff?&nbsp; Where do you
live?</blockquote><br>
Central NY, smack-dab in the middle of Syracuse and Rochester, and it
depends on what you mean by Equestrian Stuff.&nbsp; I make my own
caparisons, usually mountable over an English or a MacClellan saddle, and
I sometimes use the horse's regular bridle if I cannot manage to rig one
that matches the rest of the caparisons.&nbsp; Stateline Tack is about an
hour and change from me, in Brockport.<br>
<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>&nbsp;oooh aaahh,
percheron/belgian.-yum.&nbsp; My sister is raising a belgian<br>
polish arab mix.&nbsp; I want a Friesian!!&nbsp; </blockquote><br>
Oooo, me too!!!&nbsp; *grin*&nbsp; I got a pic somewhere of me and Belle
(that's her name, but I affectionately call her Tank, because of her
propensity for taking down small trees as we dash madly through the
forest) if you'd like to see it... nothing of us in garb though, as the
last stuff I made was for a much smaller horse, and the velvet caparisons
are on the back burner for now *sigh*<br>
<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>&nbsp;Oh, yeah-costume stuff-Great
pictures on your site.&nbsp; No horsy pictures<br>
though-ooops this is the costume list!</blockquote><br>
*grin*&nbsp; Thank you and hopefully soon if I can light a fire under my
webmistress... have more pics to scan of other outfits I've done and I do
have SOME shots of the Horseman's Cloak, but they aren't the greatest
quality.&nbsp; If you want to see them, I can email them to you.&nbsp;
Now to find another web-pointing service that's not going to charge me
through the nose.&nbsp; If anyone has any ideas, email them to me
offlist, please?<br>
<br>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
Victoria Wickens<br>
Lady Victoria's Castle Closet<br>
<a href="http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html" eudora="autourl">http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.</a><a href="http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html" eudora="autourl">html<br>
</a><font size=4>Gallery:
<a href="http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/castle-creations/" eudora="autourl">http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/castle-creations/</a><br>
<br>
</font></html>

--=====================_58238883==_.ALT--

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Mar 16 01:46:26 2002
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From: "Saragrace knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Horses and Costumes
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You are not going to believe this (I hardly can!).  My sister lives in
Cato, N.Y.  (Between Rochester and Syracuse).  That little (little-hah!)
polish/Belgian mix is there.   What is ACW?  (something west?)  I live
in Phoenix AZ.  My gosh you must be up late!  
 
Do you have a place to keep a horse?   Oh-costume-oh bother.  Lets chat
off list.  My hubby is big time into guns-I might be able to coax him
into a western outfit.  I've been trying to get him into tights for
years-no deal.  (oh I managed to work something related to costumes in
here!)
 
 
 
 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Victoria Wickens
Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 10:21 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Horses and Costumes


At 09:35 PM 3/15/02 -0700, you wrote:


Hi Victoria-I almost missed your post-are you able to change your
subject line?  .


Yeah, but I just got lazy *grin*.  My apologies.



 What a hoot.  We could probably start a whole 'nother
email list on horses used for recreation.  


Oooo, I always wanted to do that *grin*  thankfully Himself (the hubby)
is into horses as well, but he does ACW *sigh* and I do MUCH earlier
stuff *grin*.  I'm game, or we can chat offlist if you like!!



I haven't done it yet, not
for lack of naggers-got 4 too many horses as it is.  


Ooo? *perking*  Do any of them need a good home? *hopeful look*



Do you have any
good sources for equestrian stuff?  Where do you live?


Central NY, smack-dab in the middle of Syracuse and Rochester, and it
depends on what you mean by Equestrian Stuff.  I make my own caparisons,
usually mountable over an English or a MacClellan saddle, and I
sometimes use the horse's regular bridle if I cannot manage to rig one
that matches the rest of the caparisons.  Stateline Tack is about an
hour and change from me, in Brockport.



 oooh aaahh, percheron/belgian.-yum.  My sister is raising a belgian
polish arab mix.  I want a Friesian!!  


Oooo, me too!!!  *grin*  I got a pic somewhere of me and Belle (that's
her name, but I affectionately call her Tank, because of her propensity
for taking down small trees as we dash madly through the forest) if
you'd like to see it... nothing of us in garb though, as the last stuff
I made was for a much smaller horse, and the velvet caparisons are on
the back burner for now *sigh*



 Oh, yeah-costume stuff-Great pictures on your site.  No horsy pictures
though-ooops this is the costume list!


*grin*  Thank you and hopefully soon if I can light a fire under my
webmistress... have more pics to scan of other outfits I've done and I
do have SOME shots of the Horseman's Cloak, but they aren't the greatest
quality.  If you want to see them, I can email them to you.  Now to find
another web-pointing service that's not going to charge me through the
nose.  If anyone has any ideas, email them to me offlist, please?



Victoria Wickens
Lady Victoria's Castle Closet
http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.
<http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html> html
<http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html> 
Gallery: http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/castle-creations/




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charset=3Dus-ascii">
<TITLE>Message</TITLE>

<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2713.1100" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D960391805-16032002><FONT face=3DBatang =
color=3D#800000 size=3D2>You=20
are not going to believe this (I hardly can!).&nbsp; My sister lives in =
Cato,=20
N.Y.&nbsp; (Between Rochester and Syracuse).&nbsp; That little=20
(little-hah!)&nbsp;polish/Belgian mix is there.&nbsp;&nbsp; What is =
ACW?&nbsp;=20
(something west?)&nbsp; I live in Phoenix AZ.&nbsp; My gosh you must be =
up=20
late!&nbsp; </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D960391805-16032002><FONT face=3DBatang =
color=3D#800000=20
size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D960391805-16032002><FONT face=3DBatang =
color=3D#800000 size=3D2>Do=20
you have a place to keep a horse?&nbsp; &nbsp;Oh-costume-oh =
bother.&nbsp; Lets=20
chat off list.&nbsp; My hubby is big time into guns-I might be able to =
coax him=20
into a western outfit.&nbsp; I've been trying to get him into tights for =

years-no deal.&nbsp; (oh I managed to work something related to costumes =
in=20
here!)</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D960391805-16032002><FONT face=3DBatang =
color=3D#800000=20
size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D960391805-16032002><FONT face=3DBatang =
color=3D#800000=20
size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D960391805-16032002><FONT face=3DBatang =
color=3D#800000=20
size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D960391805-16032002><FONT face=3DBatang =
color=3D#800000=20
size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #800000 2px =
solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader lang=3Den-us dir=3Dltr =
align=3Dleft><FONT=20
  face=3DTahoma size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>=20
  h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] <B>On =
Behalf Of=20
  </B>Victoria Wickens<BR><B>Sent:</B> Friday, March 15, 2002 10:21=20
  PM<BR><B>To:</B> h-costume@indra.com<BR><B>Subject:</B> [h-cost] Re: =
Horses=20
  and Costumes<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>At 09:35 PM 3/15/02 -0700, you =
wrote:<BR>
  <BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dcite cite=3D"" type=3D"cite">Hi Victoria-I almost =
missed your=20
    post-are you able to change your<BR>subject line?&nbsp;=20
  .</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>Yeah, but I just got lazy *grin*.&nbsp; My=20
apologies.<BR><BR>
  <BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dcite cite=3D"" type=3D"cite">&nbsp;What a =
hoot.&nbsp; We could=20
    probably start a whole 'nother<BR>email list on horses used for=20
    recreation.&nbsp; </BLOCKQUOTE><BR>Oooo, I always wanted to do that=20
  *grin*&nbsp; thankfully Himself (the hubby) is into horses as well, =
but he=20
  does ACW *sigh* and I do MUCH earlier stuff *grin*.&nbsp; I'm game, or =
we can=20
  chat offlist if you like!!<BR><BR>
  <BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dcite cite=3D"" type=3D"cite">I haven't done it =
yet, not<BR>for=20
    lack of naggers-got 4 too many horses as it is.&nbsp; =
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>Ooo?=20
  *perking*&nbsp; Do any of them need a good home? *hopeful =
look*<BR><BR>
  <BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dcite cite=3D"" type=3D"cite">Do you have =
any<BR>good sources=20
    for equestrian stuff?&nbsp; Where do you =
live?</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>Central NY,=20
  smack-dab in the middle of Syracuse and Rochester, and it depends on =
what you=20
  mean by Equestrian Stuff.&nbsp; I make my own caparisons, usually =
mountable=20
  over an English or a MacClellan saddle, and I sometimes use the =
horse's=20
  regular bridle if I cannot manage to rig one that matches the rest of =
the=20
  caparisons.&nbsp; Stateline Tack is about an hour and change from me, =
in=20
  Brockport.<BR><BR>
  <BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dcite cite=3D"" type=3D"cite">&nbsp;oooh aaahh,=20
    percheron/belgian.-yum.&nbsp; My sister is raising a =
belgian<BR>polish arab=20
    mix.&nbsp; I want a Friesian!!&nbsp; </BLOCKQUOTE><BR>Oooo, me =
too!!!&nbsp;=20
  *grin*&nbsp; I got a pic somewhere of me and Belle (that's her name, =
but I=20
  affectionately call her Tank, because of her propensity for taking =
down small=20
  trees as we dash madly through the forest) if you'd like to see it... =
nothing=20
  of us in garb though, as the last stuff I made was for a much smaller =
horse,=20
  and the velvet caparisons are on the back burner for now =
*sigh*<BR><BR>
  <BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dcite cite=3D"" type=3D"cite">&nbsp;Oh, =
yeah-costume=20
    stuff-Great pictures on your site.&nbsp; No horsy =
pictures<BR>though-ooops=20
    this is the costume list!</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>*grin*&nbsp; Thank you and =
hopefully=20
  soon if I can light a fire under my webmistress... have more pics to =
scan of=20
  other outfits I've done and I do have SOME shots of the Horseman's =
Cloak, but=20
  they aren't the greatest quality.&nbsp; If you want to see them, I can =
email=20
  them to you.&nbsp; Now to find another web-pointing service that's not =
going=20
  to charge me through the nose.&nbsp; If anyone has any ideas, email =
them to me=20
  offlist, please?<BR><BR><X-SIGSEP>
  <P></X-SIGSEP>Victoria Wickens<BR>Lady Victoria's Castle Closet<BR><A=20
  href=3D"http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html"=20
  eudora=3D"autourl">http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.</A><A=20
  href=3D"http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/index2.html"=20
  eudora=3D"autourl">html<BR></A><FONT size=3D4>Gallery: <A=20
  href=3D"http://68.55.139.42/~lvcc/castle-creations/"=20
  =
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 22:14:44 -0800
Status: RO


>I had a room mate once who worked in the kitchen at a casino restaurant.
>They had a "wild game night" when they served ducks and pheasants raised on
>the owner's estate.  One of the chefs taught my friend how to skin a bird,
>and to bury  the "hide" in a box of salt for a few weeks.  They came out
>reasonably pliable, and not at all stinky.  I used some of the feathers to
>make feather earrings and hatbands (hey, it was the 70's, after all).

Borax is good too.  The 20 Mule Team kind is fine.  Someone I know made 
friends with a duck hunter, and he gave us a gunny sack full of 
non-matching mallard wings.  We dried them out in borax, and she did an 
1890's hat with hers.


Kayta
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 01:36:58 -0500
Status: RO

Oh, Linda, you will be back in Richmond... I got a postcard in the mail
today the Antique Book show/ Antiques Spectacular is... <<<drum roll>>> Mar.
23-24 at the Showplace on Mechanicsville Turnpike (Rt. 360).  Sat. 10-6, Sun
12-5.  This is my favorite antique show.

My husband is wanting us to move back West to New Mexico or Colorado.  I
have put my foot down... I won't leave Costume Heaven!!!  We can have an
Autumn/Winter home in the West but I am staying in Virginia the majority of
the time.  We have access to so many libraries and museums... nothing like
going to the original source.  Plus there are a lot of costuming events
here.  Such a respect for history and the arts.

When we moved the website to its new host, we checked on our new demographic
software, more people visited the site from California and Virginia than
anywhere else in the U.S.  I thought at first... well, AOL is based in
Virginia so that is why Virginia came in high.  The statistics are based on
where your server is located.  Recently, I bought two large maps, on of the
world and a separate U.S. map with the individual states.  I placed both
maps on the floor, then went through my records for the classes.  I called
out the location country/state of every student who has taken a class.  As I
called it out the info, my children placed a color coded dot on the location
on the map.  After doing this for a while, my little Katie said, "Mom, you
need to open up a school for California and Virginia for costume."  We have
an overwhelming amount of students from California.  Statistically, for
almost every class we have 2 students from California and at least one from
Virginia.

I just finished writing my first grant proposal, so I am full of statistics.
If you hear someone screaming for joy in about a month... it will mean we
got the grant.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 07:04:05 -0000
Status: RO

We used phesant wings on an 1870s had, the full wing bone & flesh, it was
died it a very very slow oven, two years later & no noticible stink. I'd
suggest looking at recipes for taxidermy for keeping the feathers on

Mel

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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 07:05:58 -0000
Status: RO

There are quite a few lists re horses & dressing up Parade horse is one,
then the SCA lists for equestrians, medieval there is warhorse & cavalry for
later

Mel

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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 08:16:26 -0000
Status: RO

On 15 Mar 2002 at 10:36, Ulrika A. O'Brien wrote:

> But, at least in Sweden, it's common to use an intermediate unit:
> the hectogram: 100 grams, which is a perfectly useful and convenient
> size.  

Never even heard of that one. I can see how the word derives, but I've never herad of 
anyone using it. 100 grams: about 4 ounces: yes, that's quite a nice unit.


> A decimeter is a perfectly "nice sized" unit, too.

Ten centimetres? Yes, again, it would be, if it was ever used.

You know, I can see why this metric stuff caught on in Sweden, if you got that sort of 
unit to play with. Over here, they do daft things like measuring cars in millimetres.




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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 08:16:27 -0000
Status: RO

On 15 Mar 2002 at 13:23, Ulrika A. O'Brien wrote:

> At 01:00 PM 3/15/2002, you wrote:
> > > >Come to think of it, even with length: the foot is a nice-sized unit, and
> > > >there's no metric thing of about that size.
> > >
> > > Nice sized is a matter of personal preference.  A decimeter is a
> > > perfectly "nice sized" unit, too.
> >
> >Yes, but much harder to pace off across the floor when getting rough
> >dimensions...  :)
> 
> Depends on the size of your feet!  I know men who have foot-long
> feet, but lots of women might well be no closer to a foot than
> a decimeter.

If I'm measuring a field, rather than a bit of cloth, a pace is about a yard. Me not having 
very long legs, I can't pace a metre. But that's pretty approximate anyway.

The "hand" (across the knuckles including the thumb), standard unit for measuring 
horses, is useful. Four inches. But (grabbing a ruler), that would also be about 10cm, 
which is this "decimetre" thing. I'll have to start using that, it's a good unit.



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Date: 16 Mar 2002 01:28:51 -0800
Status: RO

I might use a pound of one ingredient: I'm unlikely to use a kilo in home 
> cooking.

I often do, but then my husband keeps complaining that I cook enough for an army. Perhaps we should move to England - a good way to lose weight...

> Oh, and the decimal system has one real problem: dividing by three. A third of a yard is 
> a foot: a third of a foot is four inches. A third of a metre is 33.3-recurring centimetres?
>  No, give me base-12 any time. 

OK, I give up! I never thought dividing by three  would be that important, I'm happy to divide by 5... But this is like argueing whether raspberries taste better than strawberries.

By the way, I was just reading Newsweek and in an article about fashion shows they said "11 cm heels". Could somebody in the States explain whether this is just because the fashion designer happened to be european and the poor editors didn't kow how much tat would be in inches, or do high-heeled shoes belong to the same category with new-born babies?

just wondering,

Riina
> 
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 11:37:35 +0100
Status: RO

Jane Williams skrev:
> > A decimeter is a perfectly "nice sized" unit, too.
> 
> Ten centimetres? Yes, again, it would be, if it was ever used.
> 
> You know, I can see why this metric stuff caught on in Sweden, if you got that sort of
> unit to play with. Over here, they do daft things like measuring cars in millimetres.

Really? *giggle* In that case, I can se why people seem disinclied to
adopt the metric system! :D 

But seriously, there are all kinds of intermediate units that can be
used - and even when they're not, 20 or 30 centimeters are perfectly
useful units when you know how much one centimeter is. It really does
only boil down to what you're used to and what feels natural to you.

Ingrid
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 10:00:26 -0500
Status: RO

Greetings--

> By the way, I was just reading Newsweek and in an article about fashion
shows they said "11 cm heels". Could somebody in the States explain whether
this is just because the fashion designer happened to be european and the
poor editors didn't kow how much tat would be in inches, or do high-heeled
shoes belong to the same category with new-born babies?

Was it online Newsweek or a non-US edition?  They often change things like
measurements to metric when they provide content to non-US customers.

If it was a US edition, I'm stumped. Maybe an editor just missed it.

Susan

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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 06:53:29 -0800
Status: RO


>We used pheasant wings on an 1870s had, the full wing bone & flesh, it was
>died it a very very slow oven, two years later & no noticible stink. I'd
>suggest looking at recipes for taxidermy for keeping the feathers on

We looked at recipes for taxidermy, and that's where we got the borax 
idea.  The skin shrank in the drying process, and those feathers were in 
there good and solid.

The stink is decay.  The decay-bacteria won't grow on something dry like 
taxidermed bird parts.  We stored our wings in plastic bags with a little 
borax in with them to keep them dry, so no mold would grow in there.

Kayta
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 07:23:58 -0800
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I looked up several animals on the US Fish and Game Department website, to 
find out which ones were endangered/protected and which ones were OK for 
hats (and costumes).  If you use the wrong animal parts, Fish and Game can 
fine you, confiscate the garment they are on, and maybe even jail you.

Anything with a hunting/fishing season (pheasants, quahog clams, etc.) is 
assumed to have been got legally.  Fallen feathers from protected species 
are technically illegal, even tho it is possible to tell a fallen feather 
from a plucked-out one.  Licensed hawk owners are not allowed to give you 
fallen feathers from their own birds, altho they may legally wear these 
themselves.  Some Native Americans can wear some protected animal parts.

'Escaped domestic animal' (chickens, cows, Dalmations, etc.) parts are 
always legal, as are varmint parts (rats, coyotes, etc.)  Things like 
ostriches, which are endangered in the wild but ranched in the US, are 
legal in the US but may not be legal elsewhere.  (20 years ago, when we 
were going to Australia/Lochac, we were told that we couldn't bring our 
ostrich feathers into Australia, because their customs officers couldn't 
tell ranched ones from endangered ones.  Likewise, we couldn't legally 
bring back any kangaroo parts, even leather from what the Aussies know are 
vermin species, because US customs officers can't tell one from the other.)

Kayta
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 21:11:03 -0800
Status: RO

At 2:38 PM -0800 3/15/02, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
>>Whatever is clean works for me.  ;}
>
>Interesting - nothing I fantasize about doing, in historical 
>costume, gets better than an 'R' rating.

Maybe it's the writer in me, but one of the things I always consider 
when making a historic outfit is its "taking off" potential.  What 
would it be like to undress someone wearing this?

Heather
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Heather Rose Jones
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Things you fantasize about doing in costume.
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 12:43:00 -0500
Status: RO

>At 2:38 PM -0800 3/15/02, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
>>>Whatever is clean works for me.  ;}
>>
>>Interesting - nothing I fantasize about doing, in historical 
>>costume, gets better than an 'R' rating.
>
>Maybe it's the writer in me, but one of the things I always consider 
>when making a historic outfit is its "taking off" potential.  What 
>would it be like to undress someone wearing this?
>
>Heather

      Although with the Queen Margot scenario, you don't have to take 
off anything...

      Suddenly I see Costume Cons becoming much more popular with non-costumers.

      -Carol
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Things you fantasize about doing in costume.
From: randl <randl@adelphia.net>
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 13:08:46 -0500
Status: RO


> 
> Although with the Queen Margot scenario, you don't have to take
> off anything...
> 
> Suddenly I see Costume Cons becoming much more popular with non-costumers.
> 
> -Carol
I remember seeing the "alley scene" for the first time, and yeah it was
steamy, but I couldn't help whining that the back of the dress would be
scored by the stone wall behind her.
No, not a textile freak at all!
Laurie

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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 11:44:41 -0700
Status: RO

And then, of course, there's us poor souls who mostly use
feet/inches/yards, and live in a country that does, and own a swedish
car....*sigh*.....the nearest volvo repair place is two states away in
Washington.....
--Sue

Jane Williams wrote:

> You know, I can see why this metric stuff caught on in Sweden, if you got that sort of
> unit to play with. Over here, they do daft things like measuring cars in millimetres.
>
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From: "Ruth Bean" <ruthbean@onetel.net.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Underthings
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 18:52:52 -0000
Status: RO

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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 21:03:58 -0800 (PST)
From: Sheila <turrel@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Underthings
To: h-costume@indra.com
Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com


> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Underthings
> Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com

> No idea.  This is mentioned in 'The Embroidery of
> Mary Queen of Scots', and=20
> there may be a bibliographical note in the back
> about where the actual=20
> inventories are.  I remember this bit of trivia, but
> no longer own the book.

  Don't suppose you remember who wrote or published
it?  I can't seem to find it at amazon or bookfinder.

Sheila


Margaret Swain wrote The Needlework of Mary Queen of Scots. It was last =
reprinted December 2000 and we are the publisher. Copies should still be =
available in the USA from Unicorn Books, Petaluma, CA, or if not from us =
directly. The reading list does contain a reference:
Thomson, T: Collection of inventories and other records of the royal =
wardrobe (Edinburgh, 1815), but we haven't seen this!

Nigel Bean

Ruth Bean Publishers
Victoria Farmhouse
Carlton, Bedford MK43 7LP
England
Tel: 44-1234-720356  Fx: 44-1234-720590
E-mail: ruthbean@onetel.net.uk



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<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2712.300" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"><FONT=20
size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">Date:=20
Fri, 15 Mar 2002 21:03:58 -0800 (PST)<BR>From: Sheila &lt;<A=20
href=3D"mailto:turrel@yahoo.com">turrel@yahoo.com</A>&gt;<BR>Subject: =
Re: [h-cost]=20
Elizabethan Underthings<BR>To: <A=20
href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A><BR>Reply-To: =
<A=20
href=3D"mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com">h-costume@mail.indra.com</A><BR>=
<BR><BR>&gt;=20
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Underthings<BR>&gt; Reply-To: <A=20
href=3D"mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com">h-costume@mail.indra.com</A><BR>=
<BR>&gt;=20
No idea.&nbsp; This is mentioned in 'The Embroidery of<BR>&gt; Mary =
Queen of=20
Scots', and <BR>&gt; there may be a bibliographical note in the =
back<BR>&gt;=20
about where the actual <BR>&gt; inventories are.&nbsp; I remember this =
bit of=20
trivia, but<BR>&gt; no longer own the book.<BR><BR>&nbsp; Don't suppose =
you=20
remember who wrote or published<BR>it?&nbsp; I can't seem to find it at =
amazon=20
or bookfinder.<BR><BR>Sheila</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"><FONT=20
size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Margaret Swain wrote <EM><STRONG>The Needlework of =
Mary Queen=20
of Scots.</STRONG></EM>&nbsp;It was last reprinted December 2000 and we =
are the=20
publisher. Copies should still be available in the USA from Unicorn =
Books,=20
Petaluma, CA, or if not from us directly.&nbsp;The reading list does =
contain a=20
reference:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thomson, T: <EM><STRONG>Collection of inventories =
and other=20
records of the royal wardrobe</STRONG></EM> (Edinburgh, 1815), but we =
haven't=20
seen this!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Nigel Bean</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Ruth Bean Publishers<BR>Victoria =
Farmhouse<BR>Carlton, Bedford=20
MK43 7LP<BR>England<BR>Tel: 44-1234-720356&nbsp; Fx: =
44-1234-720590<BR>E-mail:=20
<A =
href=3D"mailto:ruthbean@onetel.net.uk">ruthbean@onetel.net.uk</A></FONT><=
/DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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The Needlework of Mary Queen of Scots

Author:  Margaret Swain

Copyright:  1973

Publisher:  Van Nostrand Reinhold Company, Inc.

ISBN:  0-442-29962-1

On page 46, the author notes Mary had a "pair of drawers (calsons)" sent to 
Lochleven during her captivity.

Ramona

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>The Needlework of Mary Queen of Scots
<BR>
<BR>Author: &nbsp;Margaret Swain
<BR>
<BR>Copyright: &nbsp;1973
<BR>
<BR>Publisher: &nbsp;Van Nostrand Reinhold Company, Inc.
<BR>
<BR>ISBN: &nbsp;0-442-29962-1
<BR>
<BR>On page 46, the author notes Mary had a "pair of drawers (calsons)" sent to Lochleven during her captivity.
<BR>
<BR>Ramona</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] Alice In Wonderland Question
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 12:39:15 -0700
Status: RO


Hi all,

In 1999, CBS aired a miniseries of Alice In Wonderland directed by Nick 
Willing, and having a girl named Tina Majorino as Alice... Whoopi Goldberg 
was the Cheshire Cat.  The shoes that Alice wore were WONDERFUL and I'd love 
to know if anyone knows how to contact the costume designer for this movie?

Regards,
Elizabeth
http://www.elizabethstewartclark.com



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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 15:42:06 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, All. Just a note on the "tanning" aspect of the conversation. The
processes you mention (salt and borax) are closer to tawing than tanning. The
salts draw out moisture from the flesh and skin in the same way that natron
was used to preserve Egyptian bodies. Tawing was done with alum and salt, and
is the basis for modern type chemical tanning. However, merely salting or
using borax are not enough to properly convert the skin to the pliable and
relatively bacteria-safe product that you would want. The tannin in the
tanning process helps to permanently convert some of the tissue. Tawing, at
least in the Medieval period, was considered less of a quality process than
tanning, although many quality products were made from it, because the
process was less lasting. As a side note, the third method of leather
preservation other than tanning and tawing is chamoising, where the hides and
skins are subjected to oil and oxidation processes. The buff leather used for
armor straps and, indeed, many sorts of body armor from the 16th and 17th
Cents., such as the ubiquitous "buffcoat", are made in this manner.  Mike T.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Period "Peasant Bodice" and fitting larger women
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 13:12:48 -0800
Status: RO

----- Original Message -----
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Period "Peasant Bodice" and fitting larger women


> Dunno about that one...the only two things I have *ever* seen adequately
> support my bust (I'm some sort of 56G, mumble, mumble) are my

Okay, ya got me.  I think the largest Elizabethan-style I've fitted was a
40FF.

> Elizabethan corset (with rather more than four bones), and one of
> Robin's gothic fitted gowns.  If I'm wearing another style (ItalianRen,
> for instance, or one of the earlier styles involving some sort of
> tee-tunic, or the lower-class wench stuff I wore for years before I
> turned it into loaner garb for our SCA group) I pretty much *have* to
> cheat and wear a bra.

Another rather large woman I worked with for a cote-hardie was about your
size but the belt-the-chemise-under-the-bust trick was sufficient for
support apparently.  As far as I know, she didn't wear a bra.  ('Course, I
only know of her wearing the outfit once.  She usually does Elizabethan and
fits her own.)

> I'm looking forward to trying some of the corded bodies and stays that
> have been showing up recently.....

Yeah, it's been sounding interesting.  Myself, I'm going to experiment with
natural reed splits "real soon now". <g>

If you are in (or coming thru) the Portland, OR area, get in touch off-line,
eh?  I'd like a chance at fitting someone your size.  Most shy away thinking
I'll try tight-lacing them.


ttyl,
Brenna



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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 16:11:04 -0500
Status: RO

If you mean this book, "The Needlework of Mary Queen of Scots" by Margaret Swain
1986 Ruth Bean Pubs. ISBN 0-903585-22-7, I have a copy. I looked briefly through
the inventories section, but didn't find a reference to netherbreeches. If you can
remember if this is the book, and about where in it the reference is, I will look
for it. As a sidenote, I have had this or a similar discussion with a number of
folks. In this case, I will refer to a greater authority, Millia Davenport's Book
of Costume. Pg 632-633 Photos 1689-93 The description reads "XVIc. Italian.
Sicilian. 5-piece set of Linen Underwear, embroidered in silk and metal threads:
camisia (underdress), shirt, stockings (without foot), and two pairs of
underdrawers. Underdrawers, like most refinements of dress, originated in Italy.
Moryson mentions "silke or linnen breeches under their gownes" as being
characteristic of Italian townswomen's dress. He says they are not worn at all in
Germany; they are obviously none too common in his native England at end XVIc."
Mike T.



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From: "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Linda Rice/ shopping
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 17:26:09 -0500
Status: RO

Penny, if Bjarne comes over give me plenty of notice and I'll drive down to
meet you both.  I'm only in DC, but would love to do a museum tour with you
all.  I promise not to "borrow" the fabric either.
-Megan

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 7:48 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linda Rice/ shopping


Bjarne,

You can come visit me.  I'd love to show you some of the lovely embroidered
pieces in museums here.  There is a late 1700s gown that has 15-20 floral
bouquets on it at the Valentine.  Each bouquet is different.  Just stunning.
Some of my favorite embroidered fabrics are in the Colonial Williamsburg
collection.  My jaw dropped when they opened the archives of fabric.  Some
of history's best kept secrets are archived in museums.  Some haven't seen
the light of day in decades.

Will I take Linda to see these things... no!  They might disappear.  LOL!!
I know Bjarne will only sketch the designs not ***borrow*** the fabrics.

BTW, Linda... do you have a thing for E.A. Poe too???  His items come up
missing for the collections in Richmond occasionally.  Were you the person
who took Poe's statue a few years ago and left it at the Raven Bar?

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 17:46:00 -0500
Status: RO

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
I hadn't before, but now you've given me an idea....
<br>But how does one orchestrate such a scenario? *sigh*
<br>It'll never happen...
<br>Deb R
<blockquote class=cite cite="" type="cite">You know, like riding
<br>down your ex and whacking his head off with a sword?</blockquote>

<br>&nbsp;</html>

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From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "tanning" hides of feathers
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 10:18:50 -0800
Status: RO

At 10:14 PM -0800 3/15/02, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
>>I had a room mate once who worked in the kitchen at a casino restaurant.
>>They had a "wild game night" when they served ducks and pheasants raised on
>>the owner's estate.  One of the chefs taught my friend how to skin a bird,
>>and to bury  the "hide" in a box of salt for a few weeks.  They came out
>>reasonably pliable, and not at all stinky.  I used some of the feathers to
>>make feather earrings and hatbands (hey, it was the 70's, after all).
>
>Borax is good too.  The 20 Mule Team kind is fine.  Someone I know 
>made friends with a duck hunter, and he gave us a gunny sack full of 
>non-matching mallard wings.  We dried them out in borax, and she did 
>an 1890's hat with hers.

As a former amateur taxidermist ...

Both these methods work for preserving a bird skin with feathers 
intact, but only if the skin is not required to be pliable.  Both 
methods are simply a drying process, using either salt or borax to 
pull moisture out of the hide.  (Borax works much more strongly and 
is what I used in taxidermy.)  In both cases, if you have a 
particularly fat skin or greasy feathers (e.g., most water birds) 
it's important to note that the treatment does nothing to the fat, 
and it may eventually become rancid and rot the skin.  Conversely, if 
you want to try doing an "oil-tan" method on the skin, this may be a 
bonus (or you could try adding oil to the dried skin).

I never tried processing a bird "pelt" for permanent flexibility. 
The oil-tan method is the obvious one to try (similarly to methods 
used for some small furs) since it doesn't involve soaking the pelt 
entirely in liquid (which can mess up the feathers).  This would 
involve first drying the skin (and removing _excess) fat from it) and 
then working small amounts of oil into it while flexing the skin to 
soften it.  Oil tanned items do have a potential for rotting, in the 
long run, because there hasn't actually been a chemical denaturing of 
the protein fibers, as you get with any of the chemical tanning 
methods.

Regular chemical soaking methods can be used on the actual skin part 
of a bird-skin, witness ostrich leather used on some fancy boots and 
accessories.  But any method that involves soaking in a liquid 
solution will tend to affect the feathers badly.  (Getting blood on 
the feathers anywhere in the process also causes problems.)

I'll also add a caution that even a processed bird skin may be 
overwhelmingly tempting to a cat who has had experience hunting (and 
therefore is familiar with bird smells).  I had a cat "take out" one 
of my mounted specimens once.

Heather

-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Mar 16 19:33:19 2002
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From: Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] lecture
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 00:21:31 +0100
Status: RO

Hi.
I went to a  lecture today that the danish textile history society
"Tenen" had arranged.
It was a lecture with dias show that textile conservator Else Østergård
held about the royal burrials at Roskilde Cathedral. Else Østergård has
written a book about it, wich some of you know. It is called "Fru
Kirstens Børn" (Misses Kirsten's Children" There was some dias showed
that never had ben shown to the public yeat of another burrial that came
up at Roskilde, the same time as the royal Coiffins was examinated.
Those dias'es showed the burrial of a little nobility girl.
The pictures was very interresting as the lecture also. Else Østergård
had shown the lecture to Janet Arnold also, and Janet Arnold could tell
Else Østergård that the pearl embroiered "crown" at the childs head was
an Elizabethan Cuff from a pair of gloves. They had some Pellicans
embroidered on them.
The childrens clothes had gold laces on, gold lace that is rekonstrukted
so that it can be made today. A danish lady had made some
rekonstruktions of them. Some of them had spangels worked to the points
of the laces. (some of my students in Pennys Classroom who took the lace
course, has seen them, and they have also had the patterns for the laces
from me.)
Else Østergård could not explain why the children was dressed in grown
up clothes, they were dressed in knitted silk sweaters with metal
thread, a very elaborate pattern. and some knitted silk stockings also
with patterned metal lace. It is hard to imagine that they would not
have had fine clothes for this purpose. Perhaps the clothes was recykled
to the smaller children. Kirsten Munk had many children with the king..
I was very excited about this, and it was worth waiting for.
The examination of the coiffins took place about 20 years ago. They had
no idea that it would be such a fine find. The coiffins was going to be
restored, and therefore they just wanted to write down details of the
find.
She also told us that it was because those coiffins had no seals in
them, that they were permitted to open them. Coiffins with seals has
strichly orders not to be examined.

Bjarne

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume Fantasy
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 15:25:34 -0800
Status: RO

I've got three ex-husbands, so I could do it three times, so far.  But my 
recent ex is taking care of our two kids while I'm doing poverty, so maybe 
I keep him.

>I hadn't before, but now you've given me an idea....
>But how does one orchestrate such a scenario? *sigh*
>It'll never happen...
>Deb R
>>You know, like riding
>>down your ex and whacking his head off with a sword?




Kayta
    //// \\\
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Tapestry exhibit
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 19:09:30 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


The New York Times had a highly positive review this week of an exhibit
called "Tapestry in the Renaissance: Art and Magnificence" at New York's
Metropolitan Museum. It features 41 tapestries from the late 15th and the
16th centuries, including Flemish, Italian, and French, and the reviewer
says they're all of top quality. I *think* the review was either March 11
or March 15 (someone else sent it to me, so I don't have the full info),
so you might still find it on the Times website if you check fast, before
it moves into archive. 

Included in the exhibit are several tapestries designed by Raphael and at
least one by Bronzino. I have no idea how much of costume interest there
is in the images for people working in the period, as certainly many of
the scenes will be Biblical, Classical, or allegorical, but I'd guess
there's something of use. And I personally find tapestries useful for
adjusting my sense of period fabric colors, since I know I'm looking at
dyes, not paints.

The exhibit is open through June 19. I will certainly miss this one. If
you get there, given them a wave for me.

--Robin

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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 18:55:01 -0800
Status: RO

I don't have any ex's, but I have two lovely daughters so I could use this 
concept over and over!!  *cackles*  I even know someone to borrow the horse 
from!!

Jennifer


>From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume Fantasy
>Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 15:25:34 -0800
>
>I've got three ex-husbands, so I could do it three times, so far.  But my
>recent ex is taking care of our two kids while I'm doing poverty, so maybe
>I keep him.
>
>>I hadn't before, but now you've given me an idea....
>>But how does one orchestrate such a scenario? *sigh*
>>It'll never happen...
>>Deb R
>>>You know, like riding
>>>down your ex and whacking his head off with a sword?
>
>
>
>
>Kayta
>    //// \\\
>   ////-@@\\\
>  ((((   7 )))
>   (((  <> ))))
>      )   ((((((
>/----\   /---\))
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 21:06:19 -0700
Status: RO

That sounds like it was a wonderful lecture, Bjarne.  What time period
did the children live in?
--Sue

Leif Drews wrote:
> 
> Hi.
> I went to a  lecture today that the danish textile history society
> "Tenen" had arranged.
> It was a lecture with dias show that textile conservator Else Østergård
> held about the royal burrials at Roskilde Cathedral. Else Østergård has
> written a book about it, wich some of you know. It is called "Fru
> Kirstens Børn" (Misses Kirsten's Children" There was some dias showed
> that never had ben shown to the public yeat of another burrial that came
> up at Roskilde, the same time as the royal Coiffins was examinated.
> Those dias'es showed the burrial of a little nobility girl.
> The pictures was very interresting as the lecture also. Else Østergård
> had shown the lecture to Janet Arnold also, and Janet Arnold could tell
> Else Østergård that the pearl embroiered "crown" at the childs head was
> an Elizabethan Cuff from a pair of gloves. They had some Pellicans
> embroidered on them.
> The childrens clothes had gold laces on, gold lace that is rekonstrukted
> so that it can be made today. A danish lady had made some
> rekonstruktions of them. Some of them had spangels worked to the points
> of the laces. (some of my students in Pennys Classroom who took the lace
> course, has seen them, and they have also had the patterns for the laces
> from me.)
> Else Østergård could not explain why the children was dressed in grown
> up clothes, they were dressed in knitted silk sweaters with metal
> thread, a very elaborate pattern. and some knitted silk stockings also
> with patterned metal lace. It is hard to imagine that they would not
> have had fine clothes for this purpose. Perhaps the clothes was recykled
> to the smaller children. Kirsten Munk had many children with the king..
> I was very excited about this, and it was worth waiting for.
> The examination of the coiffins took place about 20 years ago. They had
> no idea that it would be such a fine find. The coiffins was going to be
> restored, and therefore they just wanted to write down details of the
> find.
> She also told us that it was because those coiffins had no seals in
> them, that they were permitted to open them. Coiffins with seals has
> strichly orders not to be examined.
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> --
> 
> Leif Drews
> Åboulevard 5, 3 th
> 1635  København V
> 
> Bjarne Drews
> Åboulevard 5,3.th
> 1635 København V
> 
> tlf. 35 37 13 70
> 
> My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
> 
> Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linda Rice/ shopping
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 21:07:49 -0700
Status: RO

Shoot, Megan, if Bjarne ever makes it to your neck of the woods, I'd fly
over to do the museum tours with you guys....we don't have anything,
really, in my immediate locale.
--Sue (in Montana)

"Megan M." wrote:
> 
> Penny, if Bjarne comes over give me plenty of notice and I'll drive down to
> meet you both.  I'm only in DC, but would love to do a museum tour with you
> all.  I promise not to "borrow" the fabric either.
> -Megan
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From: "Gia Gavino" <giagavino@msn.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linda Rice/ shopping
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 20:58:11 -0800
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------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C1CD2D.4823C250
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It'd be so cool to have a tour, like what Merouda did once, here at the H=
enry Museum in Seattle at the University of Washington.  =20

I'd sign on for it!

Gia

----- Original Message -----
From: Sue Clemenger
Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2002 8:29 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linda Rice/ shopping

Shoot, Megan, if Bjarne ever makes it to your neck of the woods, I'd fly
over to do the museum tours with you guys....we don't have anything,
really, in my immediate locale.
--Sue (in Montana)

"Megan M." wrote:
>
> Penny, if Bjarne comes over give me plenty of notice and I'll drive dow=
n to
> meet you both.  I'm only in DC, but would love to do a museum tour with=
 you
> all.  I promise not to "borrow" the fabric either.
> -Megan
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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>It'd be so coo=
l to have a tour, like what Merouda did once, here at the Henry Museum in=
 Seattle at the University of Washington.&nbsp; </DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> =
<DIV>I'd sign on for it!</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Gia</DIV> <DIV>&nbs=
p;</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARG=
IN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV st=
yle=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message -----</DIV> <DIV style=3D=
"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt Arial; COLOR: black"><B>From:</B> Sue Cl=
emenger</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, Marc=
h 16, 2002 8:29 PM</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>To:</B> h-cos=
tume@indra.com</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: =
[h-cost] Linda Rice/ shopping</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>Shoot, Megan, if Bja=
rne ever makes it to your neck of the woods, I'd fly<BR>over to do the mu=
seum tours with you guys....we don't have anything,<BR>really, in my imme=
diate locale.<BR>--Sue (in Montana)<BR><BR>"Megan M." wrote:<BR>&gt;<BR>&=
gt; Penny, if Bjarne comes over give me plenty of notice and I'll drive d=
own to<BR>&gt; meet you both.&nbsp; I'm only in DC, but would love to do =
a museum tour with you<BR>&gt; all.&nbsp; I promise not to "borrow" the f=
abric either.<BR>&gt; -Megan<BR>_________________________________________=
______<BR>h-costume mailing list<BR>h-costume@mail.indra.com<BR>http://ma=
il.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Mar 17 02:24:27 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Underthings
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 00:15:21 -0600
Status: RO

kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:
> 
> We do know that some women in this time period did wear undies.
> They are discussed in some of the men's travel letters as being
> shocking and that their (English) women wouldn't do such a thing.

Where can I find these letters?

Regards,
Melanie Schuessler
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 22:02:21 -0800
Status: RO


>
>Okay, ya got me.  I think the largest Elizabethan-style I've fitted was a
>40FF.


I once made an Elizabethan corset for a woman with a 76 inch bust.  It
looked fairly good, but she complained that it wasn't comfortable.  Imagine
that.

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 01:49:04 -0500
Status: RO

Well, Penny, it looks like the ball’s in your court!  I think it’s time
for a “Behind the Scenes” tour of the Valentine!  Richmond has so much
fun stuff to do, I think you should make it a weekend event. Hmm,
there’s the Valentine, the Museum of the Confederacy, EA Poe, the Fine
Arts Museum, ….what else am I forgetting?  The restaurants and night
life aren't too shabby either!  And of course, Williamsburg is only
about 45 minutes away, so we'll HAVE to go there too!

Linda

-----Original Message-----
 On Behalf Of Gia Gavino

It'd be so cool to have a tour, like what Merouda did once, here at the
Henry Museum in Seattle at the University of Washington.  
 I'd sign on for it!
 Gia
 
From: Sue Clemenger
Shoot, Megan, if Bjarne ever makes it to your neck of the woods, I'd fly
over to do the museum tours with you guys....we don't have anything,
really, in my immediate locale.
--Sue (in Montana)

"Megan M." wrote:
>
> Penny, if Bjarne comes over give me plenty of notice and I'll drive
down to
> meet you both.  I'm only in DC, but would love to do a museum tour
with you
> all.  I promise not to "borrow" the fabric either.
> -Megan
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 10:34:48 +0100
Status: RO

Hello.
Oh yes i forgot to tell about the year. The first girl died in 1627, the
second boy in 1629 ( i think)
Sorry about that.

Bjarne

Sue Clemenger wrote:

> That sounds like it was a wonderful lecture, Bjarne.  What time period
> did the children live in?
> --Sue
>
> Leif Drews wrote:
> >
> > Hi.
> > I went to a  lecture today that the danish textile history society
> > "Tenen" had arranged.
> > It was a lecture with dias show that textile conservator Else Østergård
> > held about the royal burrials at Roskilde Cathedral. Else Østergård has
> > written a book about it, wich some of you know. It is called "Fru
> > Kirstens Børn" (Misses Kirsten's Children" There was some dias showed
> > that never had ben shown to the public yeat of another burrial that came
> > up at Roskilde, the same time as the royal Coiffins was examinated.
> > Those dias'es showed the burrial of a little nobility girl.
> > The pictures was very interresting as the lecture also. Else Østergård
> > had shown the lecture to Janet Arnold also, and Janet Arnold could tell
> > Else Østergård that the pearl embroiered "crown" at the childs head was
> > an Elizabethan Cuff from a pair of gloves. They had some Pellicans
> > embroidered on them.
> > The childrens clothes had gold laces on, gold lace that is rekonstrukted
> > so that it can be made today. A danish lady had made some
> > rekonstruktions of them. Some of them had spangels worked to the points
> > of the laces. (some of my students in Pennys Classroom who took the lace
> > course, has seen them, and they have also had the patterns for the laces
> > from me.)
> > Else Østergård could not explain why the children was dressed in grown
> > up clothes, they were dressed in knitted silk sweaters with metal
> > thread, a very elaborate pattern. and some knitted silk stockings also
> > with patterned metal lace. It is hard to imagine that they would not
> > have had fine clothes for this purpose. Perhaps the clothes was recykled
> > to the smaller children. Kirsten Munk had many children with the king..
> > I was very excited about this, and it was worth waiting for.
> > The examination of the coiffins took place about 20 years ago. They had
> > no idea that it would be such a fine find. The coiffins was going to be
> > restored, and therefore they just wanted to write down details of the
> > find.
> > She also told us that it was because those coiffins had no seals in
> > them, that they were permitted to open them. Coiffins with seals has
> > strichly orders not to be examined.
> >
> > Bjarne
> >
> > --
> >
> > Leif Drews
> > Åboulevard 5, 3 th
> > 1635  København V
> >
> > Bjarne Drews
> > Åboulevard 5,3.th
> > 1635 København V
> >
> > tlf. 35 37 13 70
> >
> > My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> >
> > Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
> >
> > Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: 17 Mar 2002 02:40:54 -0800
Status: RO


> Was it online Newsweek or a non-US edition?  They often change things like
> measurements to metric when they provide content to non-US customers.
> 
> If it was a US edition, I'm stumped. Maybe an editor just missed it.
> 
> Susan

Sorry I can't check now, but yes, it might have been an international edition as I was reading it here in Finland. I never noticed any other metric measurements though, but then I never thought of it.

Riina 
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Mar 17 09:25:13 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] VA Museum Tour
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 14:14:16 +0100
Status: RO

Hi.
I would love to come, it would be wonderfull.
Maybe some day..........
Remember, if any of h-costume members ever comes to Copenhagen, let me
know and i would love to show you arround to the Museum goodies. It
would be wonderfull to have good company with someone who really
apreciates same things as i do..........

Bjarne

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From: "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Va Museum Tours (was LR/ shopping)
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 09:00:49 -0500
Status: RO

Well, of course, we should do this tour IN COSTUME, right?
-Megan

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Linda Rice
Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2002 1:49 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Va Museum Tours (was LR/ shopping)


Well, Penny, it looks like the ball’s in your court!  I think it’s time
for a “Behind the Scenes” tour of the Valentine!  Richmond has so much
fun stuff to do, I think you should make it a weekend event. Hmm,
there’s the Valentine, the Museum of the Confederacy, EA Poe, the Fine
Arts Museum, ….what else am I forgetting?  The restaurants and night
life aren't too shabby either!  And of course, Williamsburg is only
about 45 minutes away, so we'll HAVE to go there too!

Linda

-----Original Message-----
 On Behalf Of Gia Gavino

It'd be so cool to have a tour, like what Merouda did once, here at the
Henry Museum in Seattle at the University of Washington. 
 I'd sign on for it!
 Gia
 
From: Sue Clemenger
Shoot, Megan, if Bjarne ever makes it to your neck of the woods, I'd fly
over to do the museum tours with you guys....we don't have anything,
really, in my immediate locale.
--Sue (in Montana)

"Megan M." wrote:
>
> Penny, if Bjarne comes over give me plenty of notice and I'll drive
down to
> meet you both.  I'm only in DC, but would love to do a museum tour
with you
> all.  I promise not to "borrow" the fabric either.
> -Megan
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 09:37:15 -0700
Status: RO

Yeah, that was a cool tour--I got to go on it during KWAS. Those cut and
voided velvets--oooh, drool city <g>.
--sue
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 09:44:58 -0700
Status: RO

I dunno, Megan....it'd be kinda hard to get mine into luggage <g>. 
Would be loads of fun to see the different costumes people would choose
to wear, though, since we "cover" so many different centuries.
--Sue, struck with this very bizarre image of trying to explain to the
nice security people that all that metal in her corset is safe, really
it is....[hmmm...yet another reason to make some stays with natural
materials <gggg>]

"Megan M." wrote:
> 
> Well, of course, we should do this tour IN COSTUME, right?
> -Megan
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Linda Rice
> Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2002 1:49 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Va Museum Tours (was LR/ shopping)
> 
> Well, Penny, it looks like the ball’s in your court!  I think it’s time
> for a “Behind the Scenes” tour of the Valentine!
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Va Museum Tours (was LR/ shopping)
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 12:10:38 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Sun, 17 Mar 2002, Sue Clemenger wrote:

> --Sue, struck with this very bizarre image of trying to explain to the
> nice security people that all that metal in her corset is safe, really
> it is....[hmmm...yet another reason to make some stays with natural
> materials <gggg>]

A Spanish farthingale, collapsed and twisted double on itself, fits nicely
into a suitcase, and under the X-ray looks like so much spaghetti...

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Va Museum Tours (was LR/ shopping)
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Suddenly I get visions of the proverbial can of worms, springing out at t=
he security gate, as an unsuspecting guard opens the suitcase...
LOL!!!!

I do like the idea of going in costume, but I'm more intrigued about gett=
ing as much research as I can possible squeeze into the time there.  Mayb=
e we could have a nice dinner out in costume?
 =20
Gia/Giacinta

----- Original Message -----
From: Robin Netherton
Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2002 8:58 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Va Museum Tours (was LR/ shopping)

A Spanish farthingale, collapsed and twisted double on itself, fits nicel=
y
into a suitcase, and under the X-ray looks like so much spaghetti...

--Robin

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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>Suddenly I get=
 visions of the proverbial can of worms, springing out at the security ga=
te, as an unsuspecting guard opens the suitcase...</DIV> <DIV>LOL!!!!</DI=
V> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>I do like the idea of going in costume, but I'm=
 more intrigued about getting as much research as I can possible squeeze =
into the time there.&nbsp; Maybe we could have a nice dinner out in costu=
me?</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Gia/Giacinta</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <BL=
OCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px=
; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style=3D"FONT:=
 10pt Arial">----- Original Message -----</DIV> <DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND:=
 #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt Arial; COLOR: black"><B>From:</B> Robin Netherton</D=
IV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, March 17, 2002 8=
:58 AM</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>To:</B> h-costume@indra.c=
om</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [h-cost] Va =
Museum Tours (was LR/ shopping)</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>A Spanish farthing=
ale, collapsed and twisted double on itself, fits nicely<BR>into a suitca=
se, and under the X-ray looks like so much spaghetti...<BR><BR>--Robin<BR=
><BR>_______________________________________________<BR>h-costume mailing=
 list<BR>h-costume@mail.indra.com<BR>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listin=
fo/h-costume<BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Mar 17 14:19:27 2002
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 11:13:58 -0700
Status: RO

Yet another reason to stick to things like fitted gowns and ItalianRen
stuff, I suspect.....
--Sue, still trying to think of a way to get thread cutters into her
carryon luggage for her embroidery projects [yes, I know I could put
them in my checked luggage, but a girl's gotta have *something* to work
on when she flies all the way across the U.S. and _then_ the Atlantic
Ocean <ggg>]

Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
> On Sun, 17 Mar 2002, Sue Clemenger wrote:
> 
> > --Sue, struck with this very bizarre image of trying to explain to the
> > nice security people that all that metal in her corset is safe, really
> > it is....[hmmm...yet another reason to make some stays with natural
> > materials <gggg>]
> 
> A Spanish farthingale, collapsed and twisted double on itself, fits nicely
> into a suitcase, and under the X-ray looks like so much spaghetti...
> 
> --Robin
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 19:49:23 +0000
Status: RO

Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote
>What do they call a yardstick in England, Canada, and Australia?  A
>meter stick?
>
>Do they sell anything corresponding to a 12-inch "foot" ruler, and
>what is it called?  Do they sell 6-inch rulers and if so what do they
>call them?
>
>In the US measuring tools for sewing often come marked with both
>English and metric units (one system on each edge of the tool).  Is
>that true in countries that only use the metric system?
>
>Do they sell dotted pattern-drafting paper with a metric grid instead
>of an inch grid, and what unit/size grid  is used (1 cm seems small to
>me)?  How about that gridded interfacing type stuff you can use for
>copying patterns from clothes?
>
>Do most sewers in these countries still understand the English system,
>or only a few?
>
>Thanks for any enlightenment,
>
>Fran

Everyone I know tends to use what comes to a handy number.  They started 
teaching metric in schools about my time (I'm 33), but you learn to sew 
and cook (and do woodwork) from your parents, so we're still in 
generations that think in Imperial measurements.  Most measuring 
instruments still come in both.  I and my husband are quite happy to 
measure something as "4 inches by 1.5 cm".  A local timber (lumber) 
merchants advertises that their staff are happy to deal with customers 
who come in with those sort of requirements.

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 21:45:51 -0000
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From: FABRICHOARDER@aol.com
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 14:14:52 EST
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Underthings
To: h-costume@indra.com
Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com


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The Needlework of Mary Queen of Scots

Author:  Margaret Swain

Copyright:  1973

Publisher:  Van Nostrand Reinhold Company, Inc.

ISBN:  0-442-29962-1

On page 46, the author notes Mary had a "pair of drawers (calsons)" sent =
to=20
Lochleven during her captivity.

Ramona

Ramona's reference should read 'page 56' for both the current Ruth Bean =
edition and the earlier 1973 edition (out of print since the early =
1980s).

Nigel

Ruth Bean Publishers
Victoria Farmhouse
Carlton, Bedford MK43 7LP
England
Tel: 44-1234-720356  Fx: 44-1234-720590
E-mail: ruthbean@onetel.net.uk



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</HEAD>
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<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">From:=20
<A =
href=3D"mailto:FABRICHOARDER@aol.com">FABRICHOARDER@aol.com</A><BR>Date: =
Sat,=20
16 Mar 2002 14:14:52 EST<BR>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan =
Underthings<BR>To:=20
<A =
href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A><BR>Reply-To: =
<A=20
href=3D"mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com">h-costume@mail.indra.com</A><BR>=
<BR><BR>--part1_181.530dd03.29c4f3ac_boundary<BR>Content-Type:=20
text/plain; charset=3D"US-ASCII"<BR>Content-Transfer-Encoding: =
7bit<BR><BR>The=20
Needlework of Mary Queen of Scots<BR><BR>Author:&nbsp; Margaret=20
Swain<BR><BR>Copyright:&nbsp; 1973<BR><BR>Publisher:&nbsp; Van Nostrand =
Reinhold=20
Company, Inc.<BR><BR>ISBN:&nbsp; 0-442-29962-1<BR><BR>On page 46, the =
author=20
notes Mary had a "pair of drawers (calsons)" sent to <BR>Lochleven =
during her=20
captivity.<BR><BR>Ramona<BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Ramona's reference should read 'page 56' for both =
the current=20
Ruth Bean edition and the earlier 1973 edition (out of print since the =
early=20
1980s).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Nigel</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Ruth Bean Publishers<BR>Victoria =
Farmhouse<BR>Carlton, Bedford=20
MK43 7LP<BR>England<BR>Tel: 44-1234-720356&nbsp; Fx: =
44-1234-720590<BR>E-mail:=20
<A =
href=3D"mailto:ruthbean@onetel.net.uk">ruthbean@onetel.net.uk</A></FONT><=
/DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
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Hi. I looked at my Ruth Bean copy and the reference wasn't on pg 46 as
it was in the 1973 edition. Any idea where it is in the 1986 edition?
Mike T.


> On page 46, the author notes Mary had a "pair of drawers (calsons)"
> sent to Lochleven during her captivity.
>
> Ramona

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Hi. I looked at my Ruth Bean copy and the reference wasn't on pg 46 as
it was in the 1973 edition. Any idea where it is in the 1986 edition?&nbsp;
Mike T.
<br>&nbsp;
<blockquote TYPE=CITE><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>On page
46, the author notes Mary had a "pair of drawers (calsons)" sent to Lochleven
during her captivity.</font></font>
<p><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size=-1>Ramona</font></font></blockquote>
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 16:16:04 -0600
Status: RO

Sue, I think someone has mentioned the circular thingy from Clotilde that 
is a thread cutter, but no sharp edges.  Also, I got a set of needle 
threaders at Joann's (in the quilting notions area) and these threaders 
have built in thread cutters on them (a notch with a tiny edge at the 
bottom).  The threaders are mostly plastic, just the tiny wires for 
threading and the less than 1 mm thread cutter are metal.

Sandy

>--Sue, still trying to think of a way to get thread cutters into her
>carryon luggage for her embroidery projects [yes, I know I could put
>them in my checked luggage, but a girl's gotta have *something* to work
>on when she flies all the way across the U.S. and _then_ the Atlantic
>Ocean <ggg>]

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed To Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly--
Why They Are Simply Doomed."

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
-- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda


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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 17:30:57 -0500
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At 01:49 AM 3/17/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Well, Penny, it looks like the ball’s in your court!  I think it’s time
>for a “Behind the Scenes” tour of the Valentine!  Richmond has so much
>fun stuff to do, I think you should make it a weekend event. Hmm,
>there’s the Valentine, the Museum of the Confederacy, EA Poe, the Fine
>Arts Museum, ….what else am I forgetting?  The restaurants and night
>life aren't too shabby either!  And of course, Williamsburg is only
>about 45 minutes away, so we'll HAVE to go there too!
>
>Linda
>

I could work out a "behind the Scenes" at Williamsburg, if there was an
interest.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 16:19:07 -0500
Status: RO

Oh Yeah!!   Just name the time and meeting place, and I'll be there! 

Thanks!

Linda
Virginia Beach, Va.


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Ron Carnegie
Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2002 5:31 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Va Museum Tours (was LR/ shopping)

I could work out a "behind the Scenes" at Williamsburg, if there was an
interest.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	


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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 21:14:10 -0800
Status: RO


> --Sue, still trying to think of a way to get thread cutters into her
> carryon luggage for her embroidery projects ...

Clothilda sells a Thread Cutter Pendant by Clover that looks like a
necklace medallion.  It arrived after my trip, so I didn't get to try
it on the plane, but they advertise it as security safe.

I took a rope Spanish Farthingale and a corset boned with bamboo
skewers and two 1/2" bones to Australia last month, and security
didn't pester me - about that.  They stressed over my nail clippers,
but those didn't have a file, so they let me keep them.  Nail clippers
make passable thread cutters.

btw, the Aussies have some brilliant costumers, and put on a fun
CostumeCon.  I hope they can make CostumeCon next year.
   Deb
   The Mantua-Maker


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 23:23:56 -0600
Status: RO

At 10:18 AM 3/16/2002 -0800, you wrote:
> > >Yes, but much harder to pace off across the floor when getting rough
> > >dimensions...  :)
> >
> > Depends on the size of your feet!  I know men who have foot-long
> > feet, but lots of women might well be no closer to a foot than
> > a decimeter.
> >
> >
>
>True - my feet are 8" long at best, but my handspan is almost exactly 20cm
>which is very handy (pun intended) :-P
>Claire

I've just discovered that my feet are 10" long.  Hm.  That could be pretty 
useful...

Cheers,
Danielle

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 00:59:49 -0500
Status: RO

I'm not ignoring ya'll... I have the flu.  I will get back with you when I
am better.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 23:23:25 -0700
Status: RO

A couple of people have recommended the thread cutters you're talking
about, and I've actually seen them for sale locally.  My problem is, my
primary form of embroidery is itsy-bitsy blackwork, and for that, I need
my very sharp little embroidery scissors I spent *way* too much money
on.

I'd love to make it to a Costume Con.  They sound like loads of fun. 
Can't make much this year, but maybe 2003.....heck, by then, maybe I'll
actually have something done enough to wear.....
--Sue

"Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker" wrote:
> 
> > --Sue, still trying to think of a way to get thread cutters into her
> > carryon luggage for her embroidery projects ...
> 
> Clothilda sells a Thread Cutter Pendant by Clover that looks like a
> necklace medallion.  It arrived after my trip, so I didn't get to try
> it on the plane, but they advertise it as security safe.
> 
> I took a rope Spanish Farthingale and a corset boned with bamboo
> skewers and two 1/2" bones to Australia last month, and security
> didn't pester me - about that.  They stressed over my nail clippers,
> but those didn't have a file, so they let me keep them.  Nail clippers
> make passable thread cutters.
> 
> btw, the Aussies have some brilliant costumers, and put on a fun
> CostumeCon.  I hope they can make CostumeCon next year.
>    Deb
>    The Mantua-Maker
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 00:52:02 -0600
Status: RO

Yet another shameless commercial plug for CostumeCon 21 in 2003- Yes,
please come!!! You have over a year to make those totally fabulous
outfits you've been planning for years.......Oh and if anyone has any
ideas for panels or workshops you'd like to attend/be part of, please let
me know!

Karen Bergquist
Programming Chair CC21




On Sun, 17 Mar 2002 23:23:25 -0700 Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
writes:
> I'd love to make it to a Costume Con.  They sound like loads of fun. 
> Can't make much this year, but maybe 2003.....heck, by then, maybe 
> I'll actually have something done enough to wear.....
> --Sue

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Subject: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 11:49:19 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> But, at least in Sweden, it's common to use an intermediate unit: the
> hectogram: 100 grams, which is a perfectly useful and convenient size.
>  I think the claim of superior usefulness for Imperial measures is
> just nonsensical, and a matter of what you're used to.

> Nice sized is a matter of personal preference.  A decimeter is a
> perfectly "nice sized" unit, too.

Hectogram I'd heard of but had no idea what it is (or, for that 
matter, any concept of how much 100grams is in terms of how 
much something real wouod weigh)

Decimeter is completely new to me and sounds like something 
made-up for use on a low-budget SF show....<G>

Teddy
(grew up with the metric system taught in school and still can't use 
it -  yards, feet and inches are *real* measurements I can think, 
calculate *and* guesstimate in)

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 11:53:08 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Okay now I know this is really silly, but I just thought it might
> be fun to ask.  Does anyone else fantasize about doing things in
> their costumes (finished, planned or also just dreamed about)?  You
> know, like riding down your ex and whacking his head off with a
> sword? 
 
Turning up to a school reunion and fraking all the small minded, 
small-town bastards I grew up with!

Teddy
(who will get the opportunity to do something similar in May when 
there's actually a re-enactment event in his home town... never 
thought he'd see the day)




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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 07:14:07 -0700
Status: RO

So where _is_ CostumeCon 21 being held? And when?
--Sue, slow on Monday mornings

seamstrix@juno.com wrote:
> 
> Yet another shameless commercial plug for CostumeCon 21 in 2003- Yes,
> please come!!! You have over a year to make those totally fabulous
> outfits you've been planning for years.......Oh and if anyone has any
> ideas for panels or workshops you'd like to attend/be part of, please let
> me know!
> 
> Karen Bergquist
> Programming Chair CC21
> 
> On Sun, 17 Mar 2002 23:23:25 -0700 Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
> writes:
> > I'd love to make it to a Costume Con.  They sound like loads of fun.
> > Can't make much this year, but maybe 2003.....heck, by then, maybe
> > I'll actually have something done enough to wear.....
> > --Sue
> 
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 09:05:54 -0600
Status: RO

Hehehehe.....I thought folks on the list would be fed up with hearing me
plug the con already! Here's the link to our site. CostumeCon 21 is here
in beautiful, exotic Chicago, Illinois USA!


Karen



http://www.jennifarse.com/cc2003/

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Subject: Re:  [h-cost] Things you fantasize about doing in costume.
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 06:30:10 -0800
Status: RO

 
> 
>Turning up to a school reunion and fraking all the small minded, 
>small-town bastards I grew up with!
>
>Teddy
>(who will get the opportunity to do something similar in May when 
>there's actually a re-enactment event in his home town... never 
>thought he'd see the day)


Ooh, parallel lives, Teddy!  In May there's going to be a Ren Faire in my
home town.  It should be interesting, even if I am going to hear "I
remember you, you were the one with the cape!" about nine gazillion times.

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 09:56:55 -0500
Status: RO

Hello all!

I have really enjoyed your fantasies!  Mine always involve a Scotsman or
Viking, for some reason ...

Could someone please send me the URL for the corded body photos, and
references as to where to purchase the 1/4" hemp cord?

Also, there are a few fabric links on sewing.com - one is trimfabric.com
This site sells fabrics by the bolt at great prices ($2-3 yard) as well as
end cuts.  Worth a look.

Thanks!  Laurie


Mystic Aquarium & Institute for Exploration's mission is to inspire people
everywhere to care about and protect our oceans by exploring and sharing
their biological, ecological and cultural treasures. The not-for-profit
Mystic Aquarium & Institute for Exploration are divisions of Sea Research
Foundation, Inc.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Thread cutters
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 15:24:36 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Sue, I think someone has mentioned the circular thingy from Clotilde
> that is a thread cutter, but no sharp edges.  Also, I got a set of
> needle threaders at Joann's (in the quilting notions area) and these
> threaders have built in thread cutters on them (a notch with a tiny
> edge at the bottom).  The threaders are mostly plastic, just the tiny
> wires for threading and the less than 1 mm thread cutter are metal.
> 
> Sandy
> 
> >--Sue, still trying to think of a way to get thread cutters into her
> >carryon luggage for her embroidery projects [yes, I know I could put
> >them in my checked luggage, but a girl's gotta have *something* to
> >work on when she flies all the way across the U.S. and _then_ the
> >Atlantic Ocean <ggg>]

But, from what I hear, you won't be allowed to take the *needles* on 
as cary-on so having the thread cutter will bve pretty useless

Teddy
(still boggled that a friend who returned to CA from London in 
February had her *shoes* confiscated and destroyed because they 
had a bit of English mud on them.... and she wasn't even 
compensated for the loss of the shoes.  If it had been me there 
they'd have had an international incident in their airport!  In my book 
that's *theft*.)
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 16:28:24 +0100
Status: RO

Hello.
My fantasy is not very peculiar. The danish lace guild is having a lace
day in august.
I have made arrangements with Castle Selsoe to come fully dressed in my
(hopefully finished embroidered costume) and demonstrate lace making.
I am travelling with train and bus, so i definately will not be dressed,
but i change at the castle. Not 10 wild horses would make me travel in
bus and train dressed like an 18th. century gentleman. I simply lack the
nervs to do such a thing.
When i was going to a ball at Stockholm last autumn, they suggested me
to take the bus fully dressed. Well the other members do that, but i
wouldnt have the nerve to do such a thing, a public bus? Gues i am very
shy, but......... They said that people in Stockholm is used to se the
members dressed in costume..

Bjarne

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 15:26:47 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> I've just discovered that my feet are 10" long.  Hm.  That could be
> pretty useful...

Neat - that will be useful - thanks Danielle!

Teddy
(same size feet as Danielle)
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Subject: Re:  [h-cost] Things you fantasize about doing in costume.
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 15:31:10 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


 
> >Turning up to a school reunion and freaking all the small minded,
> >small-town bastards I grew up with!
> >
> >Teddy
> >(who will get the opportunity to do something similar in May when
> >there's actually a re-enactment event in his home town... never
> >thought he'd see the day)
> 
> 
> Ooh, parallel lives, Teddy!  In May there's going to be a Ren Faire in
> my home town.  It should be interesting, even if I am going to hear "I
> remember you, you were the one with the cape!" about nine gazillion
> times.
> 
> Margo

Go for it Margo!  Perhaps you can run a book on how many times 
they'll say it to you and award yourself a "reward" if you guess 
right....<G>

Teddy
(they're going to be using the school field of my old school as 
camping space!)
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re:  [h-cost] Things you fantasize about doing in costume.
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 11:07:03 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


There's a Suzanne Vega song that feels like a costume fantasy to me, even
though there's only a hint of actual costume-related lyric, mostly in the 
opening lines:

  If I had met you on some journey, where would we be now?
  If we had met on some eastbound train, through some dark sleeping town?
  Would you have worn your silken robes all made of royal blue?
  Would I have dressed in smoke and fire, for you to see through?

Something about that image makes me want to put on something 1920-ish in
fluttery layers of red and black silk organza with silvery beaded trims,
and a mysterious hat loaded with black net veiling, and get on a train.
Trouble is, it's the wrong century for luxury train travel, and I no
longer have the figure for that type of clothing... And I don't even do
costumes from any period consistent with trains!

--Robin


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Subject: [h-cost] Straw hat blanks?
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 09:17:53 -0700
Status: RO

I am looking for a supplier of straw hat blanks for a class I will be
teaching.  Ideally they would have a very low crown (~1 inch tall) about
5 inches in diameter with at least an 18 inch brim.  I have seen some
Italian ones that are very finely woven, soft and pliable.  Any ideas?

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Straw hat blanks?
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 09:33:40 -0700
Status: RO


If you're familiar with the company "Hat Matters", they seem to have a
lot of nice stuff.  They're always at Pennsic and other
costume-related events, but you can also reach them by email at
hatmatter@aol.com (note the lack of the 's' on matter in the email
address).  If they have the item in stock, you can send them a check
and they'll ship it to you.  One caveat - they're on the road a lot,
so things take longer than you're used to if they're away and not
reading email.

						...eliz

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 16:35:32 GMT
Status: RO

Saragrace Knauf <saragrace@earthlink.net> wrote :

> I am looking for a supplier of straw hat blanks for a class I will be
> teaching.  Ideally they would have a very low crown (~1 inch tall) about
> 5 inches in diameter with at least an 18 inch brim

Bad timing here: I saw something just like that at Blackbird Leys yesterday. But I wasn't interested, so I don't remember which supplier was selling them :(

List of traders at Blackbird Leys can be found here:

http://www.montacute.net/reenactors/traders.htm

but I'm afraid that's rather a long list.



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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 08:55:51 -0800
Status: RO

At 3:24 PM +0000 3/18/02, Teddy wrote:

>(still boggled that a friend who returned to CA from London in
>February had her *shoes* confiscated and destroyed because they
>had a bit of English mud on them.... and she wasn't even
>compensated for the loss of the shoes.  If it had been me there
>they'd have had an international incident in their airport!  In my book
>that's *theft*.)

(I'm interpreting "CA" here as California, although on reflection I 
suppose it could be Canada.)  I can see the situation from your point 
of view -- on the other hand, by law, "smuggling" foreign soil into 
the US is illegal (for good and valid reasons) and was even before 
the current hoof-and-mouth flap, so it could also be viewed as 
confiscating the instrument of an illegal act.  California is pretty 
fanatic about protecting our agricultural economy -- it's illegal for 
ordinary people to bring soil into California from another _state_ of 
the US (or to bring in fresh fruit, for that matter).  People are 
responsible for knowing these things.  So, from the individual point 
of view, confiscating and destroying shoes because they have 
potentially infected mud on them seems extreme, but from the larger 
point of view, you're balancing it against vast sums in 
crop/livestock losses and eradication programs.  (We've been there 
and done that with the Mediterranean fruit fly, and we're currently 
doing that with the glassy-winged sharpshooter.  I'd just as soon 
give hoof-and-mouth a miss.)

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 08:51:01 -0800
Status: RO


>
>Something about that image makes me want to put on something 1920-ish in
>fluttery layers of red and black silk organza with silvery beaded trims,
>and a mysterious hat loaded with black net veiling, and get on a train.
>Trouble is, it's the wrong century for luxury train travel, 


I believe the Orient Express is now running as a themed costume event, at
least on occasion.  My sister the 1930's chantuese has been trying to get
the piano bar gig on it for some time.

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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In a message dated 3/18/2002 11:36:20 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
jane@williams.nildram.co.uk writes:


> > I am looking for a supplier of straw hat blanks for a class I will be
> > teaching.  Ideally they would have a very low crown (~1 inch tall) about
> > 5 inches in diameter with at least an 18 inch brim
> 

Hatcrafters is a great company that makes all kinds of hats for theatre and 
such. "Hatcrafters" is the felt form department but they have another 
division that does straw.....I just can't remember what it's called. Call 
Hatcrafters in PA at {610}623-2620 and ask how to get their straw hats. They 
are very nice and helpful people who want to give you what you want. They may 
even give you some kind of discount for bulk orders or educational stuff.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 3/18/2002 11:36:20 AM Eastern Standard Time, jane@williams.nildram.co.uk writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">&gt; I am looking for a supplier of straw hat blanks for a class I will be
<BR>&gt; teaching. &nbsp;Ideally they would have a very low crown (~1 inch tall) about
<BR>&gt; 5 inches in diameter with at least an 18 inch brim
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Hatcrafters is a great company that makes all kinds of hats for theatre and such. "Hatcrafters" is the felt form department but they have another division that does straw.....I just can't remember what it's called. Call Hatcrafters in PA at {610}623-2620 and ask how to get their straw hats. They are very nice and helpful people who want to give you what you want. They may even give you some kind of discount for bulk orders or educational stuff.</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 13:01:09 EST
Status: RO

Hello to the list.

Is there an accessible archives location for messages from this list?  Thanks.

Nancy / Ingvild
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 21:39:36 -0800
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> > --Sue, still trying to think of a way to get thread cutters into her
> > carryon luggage for her embroidery projects ...
>
My solution (tested  so far on 3 plane trips) is to bring along dental
floss.  The dispenser cuts threads very well, and doesn't do too shabby a
job on yarn, either!

Pam Dotson
Everett, WA  USA

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In a message dated 3/18/02 1:04:31 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
someone@eskimo.com writes:


> My solution (tested  so far on 3 plane trips) is to bring along dental
> floss.  The dispenser cuts threads very well, and doesn't do too shabby a
> job on yarn, either!
> 

       Now that is about as clever an idea as I have heard anyone come up 
with.  
Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 3/18/02 1:04:31 PM Eastern Standard Time, someone@eskimo.com writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">My solution (tested &nbsp;so far on 3 plane trips) is to bring along dental
<BR>floss. &nbsp;The dispenser cuts threads very well, and doesn't do too shabby a
<BR>job on yarn, either!
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Now that is about as clever an idea as I have heard anyone come up with. &nbsp;
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

--part1_66.1dc929ed.29c78c11_boundary--
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 14:00:55 -0600 (CST)
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On Mon, 18 Mar 2002 SNSpies@aol.com wrote:

> Is there an accessible archives location for messages from this list?  Thanks.

Below is a slightly updated version of the last post I made to answer
this (frequent) question. Clip and save!

==================

-- Method 1:
The indra server theoretically holds digests since the time we switched to
the mailman software. Obviously these don't go back very far. Use the
h-cost signup webpage and follow the archive links. Last time I looked,
however, very few posts had actually made it in there. It would be nice to
see this fixed, but I'm not holding my breath.

-- Method 2:
To search by keyword, use Eric Praetzel's searchable archive at:
	http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion/archives
Eric made some changes to the search method a few months ago that speed
the search but reduce your ability to search. You can no longer search by
keyword in text, just by the poster's name and subject line ... not much
use for many of the sorts of questions I ask. But it's a start, and if you
know that one of the listmembers is an expert on some topic, you can
always search on his/her name and then follow subject lines once you find
useful threads. A bit more disturbing, when Eric tidied up the files to
eliminate extra headers, some of the text was lost from some postings; I
have found a few lines missing here and there from my old posts.
Eventually I realized that when a text line happened to include a colon
after the first word on that line, the software assumed that line was a
header and wiped it. If you find some odd breaks in a posting, that may be
the cause.

-- Method 3:
For older archives (1993-1996), go to Franchesca Havas' site at
http://www.io.com/~ches/h-costume/ . You can ftp or download zipped files.
I'm not sure if Ches has later archives too. I hope *someone* is keeping
them.

--Robin



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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 12:28:29 -0700
Status: RO

I travel a lot with my job and take pins and needles all the time.  I've
only been on an international flight to Canada since 9/11, but this is
what I do:

I take a paper napkin and stick a whole bunch of pins in it and a few
needles, wrap it flat in tin foil and put it in the bottom of a plastic
shoe box with my needle work.  I don't known if they don't see it, or
don't care, but I do it all the time and have never been questioned.  I
don't carry scissors however.  I do carry one of those little thread
cutters that fit on your finger-but I usually use my teeth anyway!!  I
was really bummed at first because I thought I wouldn't be able to think
of anything to take with me to work on, but I have butt loads of hand
sewing to do and embroidery.   I started basting stuff to sew later, but
then found out I could sew well enough not to have to go back and sew on
my machine!


I figure if they do say anything, I just loose a 20-50 pins and a few
needles.

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Subject: [h-cost] Tanning, Tawing, and Taxidermy?
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 11:56:40 -0800
Status: RO

I'm delurking now that this whole thread has started, it's reminded me of a 
project that has long been on the back burner for me.  I used to be in 4H, 
in the rabbit project, and when we did our "culling" I always wanted to at 
least keep the pelts for later use.  (Ours were much better quality than the 
ones I could get at the crafts store, and rex fur to boot!) Can anyone out 
there imagine a rex-fur collar?  Or gloves, for that matter?  I know one 
lady made her godson a rex-fur teddy bear... it was amazing.

My only problem back then, and now is that I had no idea how to go about 
tanning the hides, despite the instructions for "tawing" that I found in the 
ARBA (American Rabbit Breeder's Assoc.) handbook.  Many of the instructions 
I've found contain things that I can't imagine getting anywhere in any 
useful quantity.  (*Battery acid*?!!?)

Does anyone out there have instructions on how to tan or taw small rabbit 
hides (as opposed to leather)?  Or recipies for tanning or tawing solutions 
whose ingridients are easy to come by?

-Laura

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 12:15:48 -0800
Status: RO


> >Turning up to a school reunion and fraking all the small minded,
> >small-town bastards I grew up with!
>
>Ooh, parallel lives, Teddy!  In May there's going to be a Ren Faire in my
>home town.  It should be interesting, even if I am going to hear "I
>remember you, you were the one with the cape!" about nine gazillion times.

I wouldn't have missed my ten-year reunion for an all expenses paid trip to 
the V&A.  I wore a leather jacket, blue jeans, a large belt knife, and 
great big platform shoes (reunion was in 1977).  I found out that the 
snobby ones had gotten snobbier, the good ones had stayed good, and many of 
the others had grown out of high-school mentality and had turned out OK.

Kayta
    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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> From: "Kala Jathos" <matrixsinger@hotmail.com>
[...] 
> Does anyone out there have instructions on how to tan or taw small rabbit 
> hides (as opposed to leather)?  Or recipies for tanning or tawing solutions 
> whose ingridients are easy to come by?

There are tanning kits out there that specify "fur on".  The Leather Factory
sells two different tanning sets.  One is for regular leather, and one is
for pelts.  I don't have a catalogue handy right now, but the kit's supposed
to contain everything you need.  You might also want to check with Tandy
Leather.  Both companies are based in Texas, where plenty of folk still do
their own hunting and tanning.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 15:29:03 EST
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Boy, you guys are young.  My 50th high school reunion is coming in May, but I 
am not going.  I only went to that school for my senior year and never got 
very interested in any of the other students except the band members.  

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Boy, you guys are young. &nbsp;My 50th high school reunion is coming in May, but I am not going. &nbsp;I only went to that school for my senior year and never got very interested in any of the other students except the band members. &nbsp;
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] Curator job!
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 20:38:11 +0000
Status: RO

Hey, I just noticed this opening!  It's here at the University of 
Washington, located in confused Seattle Wa. where it's snowing...in mid 
-March!

Anyone interested?

http://www.washington.edu/admin/employment/2002archive/03-2002archive/RC16165.html

Gia

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 21:39:47 -0000
Status: RO

I just want to point out that the description states this position is only for UW employees, so won't do much good unless you already work there.

Margretta



> "Gia Gavino" <giagavino@msn.com> wrote:
> 
> Hey, I just noticed this opening!  It's here at the University of 
> Washington, located in confused Seattle Wa. where it's snowing...in mid 
> -March!
> 
> Anyone interested?
> 
> http://www.washington.edu/admin/employment/2002archive/03-2002archive/RC16165.html
> 
> Gia
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tanning, Tawing, and Taxidermy?
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 13:07:55 +0000
Status: RO

For those of us new to the subject, what's the difference between tanning
and tawing?


				Arlys


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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 22:44:16 +0100
Status: RO

Hi.
I just want to ask, if there are others who has tryed this:
I am planning to make a robe a la francaise. I want to embroider it.
There will be an embroidered stomacher, embroidered panels at the split
open overskirt and embroidery on the underskirt front. I want to make
some guirlandes with embroidered roses.
It will be a long lasting project like the suit i am making for myself.
Now the cost of materials will be quite expensive, i want to make the
entire dress in silk taffeta. And all the embroidery threads are
expensive silks two, including the expensive silk chenille from
Hedgehog.
Well i dont have anybody to make this dress for, and therefore i was
thinking about making a standard size ( a small 38 ) The dress includes
a pair of stays and a panier.
Do you think i would be able to sell it on ebay?
I know i would never be payed equal to the time consuming task to make
it, but i should at least have my expenses + about  800 dollars.
Do you think this would be possible?
I simply just must make that dress i have in my head....................

Bjarne

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

My new domain name: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 17:03:17 EST
Status: RO


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Bjarne, 

There is a good chance you will eventually be able to sell it on ebay, but it 
may not go the first go round, since it's a pricier item.  Just make sure to 
let me/us know when you are putting it on line and we here at h-cost can 
fight over it!  We'll get the price right up there for ya (ha ha).

I've seen 20s dresses in not so good shape go for $350 plus on the average. 
What you should do is watch comparable goodies and see what they sell for and 
get an idea of what the market will bear shortly before putting it up.  You 
can always start it at your cost with no reserve and wait.... I don't know 
the current market for repro of period clothing, so I can't be sure but there 
is a market for the genuine article in bad condition, so I would imagine 
folks would pay a lot for something you'd created with all that handwork. You 
may just have to be patient.  Also, timing is everything.  You might try 
putting it up just before Halloween (with an eye toward the nicer costumed 
events, not trick or treat), or perhaps in the spring for a wedding.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
Theatrical Costume Design
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
"Do you not know I am a woman?.  When I think, I must speak."
W. Shakespeare

In a message dated 3/18/2002 1:48:42 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:


> Do you think i would be able to sell it on ebay?
> I know i would never be payed equal to the time consuming task to make
> it, but i should at least have my expenses + about  800 dollars.
> Do you think this would be possible?
> I simply just must make that dress i have in my head....................

--part1_189.508cebd.29c7be25_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Bjarne, <BR>
<BR>
There is a good chance you will eventually be able to sell it on ebay, but it may not go the first go round, since it's a pricier item.&nbsp; Just make sure to let me/us know when you are putting it on line and we here at h-cost can fight over it!&nbsp; We'll get the price right up there for ya (ha ha).<BR>
<BR>
I've seen 20s dresses in not so good shape go for $350 plus on the average. What you should do is watch comparable goodies and see what they sell for and get an idea of what the market will bear shortly before putting it up.&nbsp; You can always start it at your cost with no reserve and wait.... I don't know the current market for repro of period clothing, so I can't be sure but there is a market for the genuine article in bad condition, so I would imagine folks would pay a lot for something you'd created with all that handwork. You may just have to be patient.&nbsp; Also, timing is everything.&nbsp; You might try putting it up just before Halloween (with an eye toward the nicer costumed events, not trick or treat), or perhaps in the spring for a wedding.<BR>
<BR>
angela<BR>
+++++<BR>
Angela F. Lazear<BR>
Cabbage Rose Costumes<BR>
Theatrical Costume Design<BR>
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com<BR>
"Do you not know I am a woman?.&nbsp; When I think, I must speak."<BR>
W. Shakespeare<BR>
<BR>
In a message dated 3/18/2002 1:48:42 PM Pacific Standard Time, drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Do you think i would be able to sell it on ebay?<BR>
I know i would never be payed equal to the time consuming task to make<BR>
it, but i should at least have my expenses + about&nbsp; 800 dollars.<BR>
Do you think this would be possible?<BR>
I simply just must make that dress i have in my head....................</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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From: "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Va Museum Tours (was LR/ shopping)
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 17:13:58 -0500
Status: RO

Always an interest in that one......... but scheduling is another story.
-Megan

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Ron Carnegie
Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2002 5:31 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Va Museum Tours (was LR/ shopping)


At 01:49 AM 3/17/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Well, Penny, it looks like the ball’s in your court!  I think it’s time
>for a “Behind the Scenes” tour of the Valentine!  Richmond has so much
>fun stuff to do, I think you should make it a weekend event. Hmm,
>there’s the Valentine, the Museum of the Confederacy, EA Poe, the Fine
>Arts Museum, ….what else am I forgetting?  The restaurants and night
>life aren't too shabby either!  And of course, Williamsburg is only
>about 45 minutes away, so we'll HAVE to go there too!
>
>Linda
>

I could work out a "behind the Scenes" at Williamsburg, if there was an
interest.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 16:21:49 -0600
Status: RO

Where is it?  Chicago-Chicago, that toddlin' town!!


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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 17:20:08 EST
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       I agree that you should be able to get a decent price for your work on 
dBay, but I do not agree that you should put it up with no reserve.  Use the 
reserve.  In case you don't get a decent bid you don't have to accept it.

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I agree that you should be able to get a decent price for your work on dBay, but I do not agree that you should put it up with no reserve. &nbsp;Use the reserve. &nbsp;In case you don't get a decent bid you don't have to accept it.
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

--part1_63.851f38c.29c7c218_boundary--
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Things you fantasize about doing in costume.
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 17:33:08 -0500
Status: RO

Between high school graduation and my ten year re-union, I lost about twenty
pounds. I wore a dress that was super-tight to the waist and laced up the
back, with a rather full skirt, and throughly enjoyed seeing all the
cheerleaders who had gotten fat!

Dianne


> I wouldn't have missed my ten-year reunion for an all expenses paid trip
to
> the V&A.  I wore a leather jacket, blue jeans, a large belt knife, and
> great big platform shoes (reunion was in 1977).  I found out that the
> snobby ones had gotten snobbier, the good ones had stayed good, and many
of
> the others had grown out of high-school mentality and had turned out OK.
>
> Kayta
>     //// \\\
>    ////-@@\\\
>   ((((   7 )))
>    (((  <> ))))
>       )   ((((((
> /----\   /---\))
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Millinery Supplies
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 16:48:18 -0600
Status: RO

I use
MANNY'S MILLINERY SUPPLY CENTER
26 West 38th St., New York, NY 10018, (212) 840-2235, (212) 840-2236, (212) 944-0178 fax

I do not know if they currently have what you are looking for.  But they do have a catalog 
you can request.
they are reasonalby priced and ship fairly fast.
-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 18:43:46 -0500
Status: RO


Come now, Teddy! It's not that hard:

millimeter
centimenter
decimeter
meter
dekameter
hectometer
kilometer

Substitute grams or liters for meters, and you have the same increments of
measurement. So a hectogram is 100 grams.

I don't have a clue how much a hectogram of, say, flour would be (partly
because I have no idea how much a gram of flour is). But I have to admit it
has a nice orderliness to it. I know how much a cup of flour is. But how
much is a quart? I always have to look it up.

Gail Finke


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: mud in California
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 18:47:07 -0500
Status: RO


glassy-winged sharpshooter???

Gail Finke

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From: Joe Cool <hysteria95126@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] new projekt -- Robe Francaise
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 16:16:46 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


--- Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
> Hi.
> I just want to ask, if there are others who has tryed this:
> I am planning to make a robe a la francaise. I want to
> embroider it.
> There will be an embroidered stomacher, embroidered panels at
> the split
> open overskirt and embroidery on the underskirt front. I want
> to make some guirlandes with embroidered roses.

You amaze me.  I have the same "I want". This has to be the 3rd
time we've done this.  *laughing*  I even bought the fabric as I
want my embroidered gown on a striped silk ground.  Since I dont
embroider, I was planning on using the embroidery machine.  As
usual, I have no place to wear it, really.  Just wanting it.

Same thing happened with the 1740's man's suit.  He doesnt have
anyplace to wear it, but it looks good so far.  (Waiting for the
ruffled linen shirt to arrive.)

As for your question, I dont know.  I've neither bought nor sold
via Ebay.

--cin
formerly known as "Cynthia in Tokyo"


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Subject: OT: Re: [h-cost] Re: mud in California
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 16:28:54 -0800
Status: RO

on 3/18/02 3:47 PM, Gail & Scott Finke at gailscott@eos.net wrote:

> 
> glassy-winged sharpshooter???
> 

It's a bug.  To me, it looks a lot like a lacewing/may fly sort of critter.
It's currently destroying grape crops up and down the state in a big way.
The wine industry is being pretty hard hit at the moment...

Sarah

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Mar 18 21:39:56 2002
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 17:28:55 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Hi All!
  I recently was watching "The Return of Martin
Guerre" (1982) with Gerard Depardieu  for a class.  It
takes place in 15c France and is all in French. The
American movie "Summersby" with Jodi Foster was based
off of it.
  I thought the costumes looked pretty good, and was
wondering if anyone else had seen this and had an
opinion.

Thanks!
Sheila

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] archives?
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 13:28:32 +1200
Status: RO

> -- Method 1:
> The indra server theoretically holds digests since the time we switched to
> the mailman software. Obviously these don't go back very far. Use the
> h-cost signup webpage and follow the archive links. Last time I looked,
> however, very few posts had actually made it in there. It would be nice to
> see this fixed, but I'm not holding my breath.

I cannot access them at all. Today I got:
Forbidden
You don't have permission to access /pipermail/h-costume/ on this server.

last time it was a 404 error message, so I have no idea how to view the
recent archives. Signing in didn't help last time either. Is the url correct
on the page for the new archives?
http://mail.indra.com/pipermail/h-costume/

michaela

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 17:06:00 -0800
Status: RO

At 6:47 PM -0500 3/18/02, Gail & Scott Finke wrote:
>glassy-winged sharpshooter???
>
>Gail Finke

Major recent vineyard pest.

Heather
-- 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] new projekt -- Robe Francaise
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 19:18:21 -0700
Status: RO

Striped silk???? Oooooh.....drooooooollll......
Wherever did you find striped silk suitable for the 18th century??
I want a sacque dress so bad I can hardly stand it.....Hadn't thought
much about the embroidery for the dress itself (since I don't really do
much surface embroidery), but I was really hoping to do the sleeve
ruffles (not sure of correct term here) in very fine linen with some of
that marvelous danish pulled-thread work.....now *that* stuff I can
do..... <gg>....Hmmmm....maybe I could work some sort of trade with
Bjarne.....
--Sue, mourning the fact that she'll probably never be a size 38 (what's
that in American sizes? A 10? smaller? larger?), so she'd never be able
to put in a decent bid for Bjarne's dress.....*sigh*.....

Cynthia-formerly-from-Tokyo wrote:
> 
> --- Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
> > Hi.
> > I just want to ask, if there are others who has tryed this:
> > I am planning to make a robe a la francaise. I want to
> > embroider it.
> > There will be an embroidered stomacher, embroidered panels at
> > the split
> > open overskirt and embroidery on the underskirt front. I want
> > to make some guirlandes with embroidered roses.
> 
> You amaze me.  I have the same "I want". This has to be the 3rd
> time we've done this.  *laughing*  I even bought the fabric as I
> want my embroidered gown on a striped silk ground.  Since I dont
> embroider, I was planning on using the embroidery machine.  As
> usual, I have no place to wear it, really.  Just wanting it.
> 
> Same thing happened with the 1740's man's suit.  He doesnt have
> anyplace to wear it, but it looks good so far.  (Waiting for the
> ruffled linen shirt to arrive.)
> 
> As for your question, I dont know.  I've neither bought nor sold
> via Ebay.
> 
> --cin
> formerly known as "Cynthia in Tokyo"
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Mar 18 22:26:35 2002
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 19:20:50 -0700
Status: RO

When I traveled last November, I didn't have any problems with the
embroidery needles, although I'd checked in advance.  Just anything
cutting-ish.  Oh, and corkscrews, which I thought was a pretty weird
one.
Gawd, Teddy, I'd go completely bonkers if I had to stay embroidery-free
all the way to and from England.....
--sue

Teddy wrote:
> 
> > Sue, I think someone has mentioned the circular thingy from Clotilde
> > that is a thread cutter, but no sharp edges.  Also, I got a set of
> > needle threaders at Joann's (in the quilting notions area) and these
> > threaders have built in thread cutters on them (a notch with a tiny
> > edge at the bottom).  The threaders are mostly plastic, just the tiny
> > wires for threading and the less than 1 mm thread cutter are metal.
> >
> > Sandy
> >
> > >--Sue, still trying to think of a way to get thread cutters into her
> > >carryon luggage for her embroidery projects [yes, I know I could put
> > >them in my checked luggage, but a girl's gotta have *something* to
> > >work on when she flies all the way across the U.S. and _then_ the
> > >Atlantic Ocean <ggg>]
> 
> But, from what I hear, you won't be allowed to take the *needles* on
> as cary-on so having the thread cutter will bve pretty useless
> 
> Teddy
> (still boggled that a friend who returned to CA from London in
> February had her *shoes* confiscated and destroyed because they
> had a bit of English mud on them.... and she wasn't even
> compensated for the loss of the shoes.  If it had been me there
> they'd have had an international incident in their airport!  In my book
> that's *theft*.)
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 22:02:35 -0500
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--------------5C84A6105980D9B8A1778D7F
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Thanks, found it at the bottom of the page!  Mike T.


>
>
> Ramona's reference should read 'page 56' for both the current Ruth
> Bean edition and the earlier 1973 edition (out of print since the
> early 1980s).

--------------5C84A6105980D9B8A1778D7F
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<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
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<body bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
Thanks, found it at the bottom of the page!&nbsp; Mike T.
<br>&nbsp;
<blockquote TYPE=CITE>
<div dir=ltr 
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">&nbsp;
<br>&nbsp;</div>
<font size=-1>Ramona's reference should read 'page 56' for both the current
Ruth Bean edition and the earlier 1973 edition (out of print since the
early 1980s).</font>&nbsp;</blockquote>

</body>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Mar 18 23:50:25 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tanning, Tawing, and Taxidermy?
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 22:30:28 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, All. In short, tanning requires the use of some form of tannin, found in
many vegetable products such as oak bark, sumac and good old tea. Tawing,
also called whittawing, because the hides and skins become whitish, uses alum
as it's main ingredient. Some good references are;  East Midlands Industrial
Archaeology Conference Proceedings pamphlet #27 "Leather Manufacture through
the Ages" by S. Thomas, L.A. Clarkson and R. Thomson Oct 1983 (no ISBN) and
"Leather and the Warrior"  by John W. Waterer 1981 The Scolar Press ISBN
0-9504182-1-8 Waterer's bibliography in the aforementioned book also contains
other good sources of information.  Mike T.

Cynthia J Ley wrote:

> For those of us new to the subject, what's the difference between tanning
> and tawing?
>
>                                 Arlys
>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Mar 19 00:18:11 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] archives?
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 23:25:15 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Tue, 19 Mar 2002, michaela wrote:

> > The indra server theoretically holds digests since the time we switched to
> > the mailman software. Obviously these don't go back very far. Use the
> > h-cost signup webpage and follow the archive links. Last time I looked,
> > however, very few posts had actually made it in there. It would be nice to
> > see this fixed, but I'm not holding my breath.
> 
> I cannot access them at all. Today I got:
> Forbidden
> You don't have permission to access /pipermail/h-costume/ on this server.
> 
> last time it was a 404 error message, so I have no idea how to view the
> recent archives. Signing in didn't help last time either. Is the url correct
> on the page for the new archives?
> http://mail.indra.com/pipermail/h-costume/

Frankly, last time I saw them there was hardly anything there. I sincerely
doubt there's been much change, assuming they exist at all anymore.
Perhaps our listowner Elizabeth knows something more about this, but I
haven't spent much time worrying about it; I personally rely on Eric's
archive.

--Robin

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 23:21:33 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, All. Just got my David Brown/Oxbow Books catalog and wanted to point out
a few books that might be of interest to some on the list.
"The Devil's Cloth: a History of stripes and striped fabric" by Michel
Pastoureau 2001 Columbia UP 0231123663 (I suppose this is the ISBN?) $22.95
BP 16.95
"Treading in the Past; Sandals of the Anisazi" ed. Kathy Kankainen 1995 Utah
UP $9.98 on sale through David Brown Books (US dist. for Oxbow) Hope this is
of some interest to someone... Mike T.



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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 20:55:57 -0800
Status: RO


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Well shoot!  I know that there are some folks here that do work at the UW=
.

Thank you for pointing this out..

Gia

----- Original Message -----
From: mdevries@sunflower.com
Sent: Monday, March 18, 2002 1:59 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Cc: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: re: [h-cost] Curator job!

I just want to point out that the description states this position is onl=
y for UW employees, so won't do much good unless you already work there.

Margretta



> "Gia Gavino" <giagavino@msn.com> wrote:
>
> Hey, I just noticed this opening!  It's here at the University of
> Washington, located in confused Seattle Wa. where it's snowing...in mid
> -March!
>
> Anyone interested?
>
> http://www.washington.edu/admin/employment/2002archive/03-2002archive/R=
C16165.html
>
> Gia
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Join the world=E2=80=99s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
> http://www.hotmail.com
>
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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>Well shoot!&nb=
sp; I know that there are some folks here that do work at the UW.</DIV> <=
DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Thank you for pointing this out..</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;=
</DIV> <DIV>Gia</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-RIGH=
T: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px sol=
id; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Me=
ssage -----</DIV> <DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt Arial; CO=
LOR: black"><B>From:</B> mdevries@sunflower.com</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT:=
 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, March 18, 2002 1:59 PM</DIV> <DIV style=
=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>To:</B> h-costume@indra.com</DIV> <DIV style=3D"=
FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Cc:</B> h-costume@indra.com</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT=
: 10pt Arial"><B>Subject:</B> re: [h-cost] Curator job!</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;=
</DIV>I just want to point out that the description states this position =
is only for UW employees, so won't do much good unless you already work t=
here.<BR><BR>Margretta<BR><BR><BR><BR>&gt; "Gia Gavino" &lt;giagavino@msn=
.com&gt; wrote:<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt; Hey, I just noticed this opening!&nbsp; I=
t's here at the University of<BR>&gt; Washington, located in confused Sea=
ttle Wa. where it's snowing...in mid<BR>&gt; -March!<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt; Anyo=
ne interested?<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt; http://www.washington.edu/admin/employment=
/2002archive/03-2002archive/RC16165.html<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt; Gia<BR>&gt;<BR>&=
gt; _________________________________________________________________<BR>=
&gt; Join the world=E2=80=99s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.<BR=
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t;<BR>_______________________________________________<BR>h-costume mailin=
g list<BR>h-costume@mail.indra.com<BR>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listi=
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 00:22:24 -0600
Status: RO

At 03:26 PM 3/18/2002 +0000, you wrote:

> > I've just discovered that my feet are 10" long.  Hm.  That could be
> > pretty useful...
>
>Neat - that will be useful - thanks Danielle!
>
>Teddy
>(same size feet as Danielle)

LOL!  I actually got out the ruler to measure them... : )  Oh, and it's 
good thing they didn't check my suitcases because my green shoes were quite 
muddy and I sure wouldn't have wanted them confiscated.

Cheers,
Danielle

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Mar 19 02:38:20 2002
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From: "Linda Walton" <linda@sapiens.nildram.co.uk>
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Subject: Re:  [h-cost] Things you fantasize about doing in costume.
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 06:23:50 -0000
Status: RO

For those whose fantasies take them that little bit further . . .

I've just come across these two places, which can be hired as holiday
cottages, quite cheaply:-

Medieval Longhouse
http://www.helpfulholidays.com/property.asp?ref=J315S

Tudor wing
http://www.helpfulholidays.com/property.asp?ref=J316S

They are both part of the same building which, if hired as a whole, will
sleep twelve people.  Just imagine trying the effect of wearing historic
costume in really authentic surroundings for a whole week or longer.  By the
way, although all the buildings are in their original form, the kitchen and
bathroom fittings and the beds are modern.

(Note:  I have no connection with the company, but have done business with
them before, and find that they really live up to their name!)

Linda Walton,
in sunny Buckinghamshire, U.K.

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Mar 19 02:42:17 2002
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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] new projekt
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 22:27:00 -0800
Status: RO

I always just put the least I'm willing to accept as the minimum.  I don't 
even look at auctions with reserves because I don't want to play guessing 
games to go shopping.  I put a buy-it-now price that I think is top end of 
the value and a starting bid I can live with so people know what they're 
bidding on without the whole "how much is the reserve?" hassles.  Just my 
Ebay $.02.

Jennifer
Distant Designs
http://www.teleport.com/~cedric/distdesi


>From: LalahTT@aol.com
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] new projekt
>Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 17:20:08 EST
>
>        I agree that you should be able to get a decent price for your work 
>on
>dBay, but I do not agree that you should put it up with no reserve.  Use 
>the
>reserve.  In case you don't get a decent bid you don't have to accept it.
>
>Lalah
>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
>
>







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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 02:40:45 -0500
Status: RO

Well, I enjoy the reserve option in some cases, especially items of debatable
value, because it allows the bidder the option of bidding without having to
commit to the item if the reserve turns out to be more than they would want to
pay. But I do think the reserve should be reasonable in relation to the starting
price. "Brand New Prada purse" starting at $2.00 with a reserve of $200, is
not a very clever attempt to lure in bidders. Yeah, I guess it only works when
the value of the object is questionable; could be $10-could be $100-who knows?
Bid and find out..Now eBay has the 'buy it now' option if you don't even want to
bother with the "fun" of an online auction.
Deb




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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] things you fantasize to do in costume
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 09:47:10 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> I am travelling with train and bus, so i definately will not be
> dressed, but i change at the castle. Not 10 wild horses would make
> me travel in bus and train dressed like an 18th. century gentleman.
> I simply lack the nervs to do such a thing. When i was going to a
> ball at Stockholm last autumn, they suggested me to take the bus
> fully dressed. Well the other members do that, but i wouldnt have
> the nerve to do such a thing, a public bus? Gues i am very shy,
> but......... They said that people in Stockholm is used to se the
> members dressed in costume.. 

Hi Bjarne

You should try it some time when you are with a group of others 
also dressed in costume, that  way you can *ease* into it without 
feeling that you're all alone and the only one in costume.

Teddy
(Who has been known to travel right across the country by public 
transport in costume to get to an event... not to mention alone on 
the London underground in Rocky Horror costume on the way to 
and from the theatre to see the show)
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Thread cutters
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 09:52:42 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> So, from the individual point of view, confiscating and destroying
> shoes because they have potentially infected mud on them seems
> extreme, but from the larger point of view, you're balancing it
> against vast sums in crop/livestock losses and eradication
> programs. 

I still think it's nuts.  England had already been declared free of Foot-
and-Mouth by that point and even if it hadn't they could have 
*cleaned* the shoes, returned them to her and destroyed the mud if 
they were that picky.... and then to not compensate her for the loss 
of the shoes.... absolutely NUTS

Teddy


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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] metric measurements
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 10:09:16 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Come now, Teddy! It's not that hard:
> 
> millimeter
> centimenter
> decimeter
> meter
> dekameter
> hectometer
> kilometer
> 
> Substitute grams or liters for meters, and you have the same
> increments of measurement. So a hectogram is 100 grams.
> 
> I don't have a clue how much a hectogram of, say, flour would be
> (partly because I have no idea how much a gram of flour is). 

But that's the problem.  I can guestimate a pound of something, I 
wouldn't have a clue for *any of the ones in your list.

> But I have to admit it has a nice orderliness to it. I know how
> much a cup of flour is. 

We have different sized cups here.   An English "standard cup" is 
different from an American one...<g>

> But how much is a quart? I always have to look it up. 

Not a measurement used in England either.
 
Similar to English people being weighed in "stones" - each stone 
being 14 pounds, so American people's weights seem awfully high 
to us because we'd have to devide the number of pounds by 14 to 
get it into stones so we could understand it.

Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Thread cutters
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 10:12:53 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> When I traveled last November, I didn't have any problems with the
> embroidery needles, although I'd checked in advance.  Just
> anything cutting-ish.  Oh, and corkscrews, which I thought was a
> pretty weird one. Gawd, Teddy, I'd go completely bonkers if I had
> to stay embroidery-free all the way to and from England..... --sue 

Uh-oh!  That could be dangerous information for me.  It means I 
*can* still count on the flight to Chicago for costume con being 
"available" sewing time for finishing off costumes.....

Teddy
(who has been known to finish sewing costumes five minutes 
*after* he should have been presenting them on-stage... it's a good 
thing Masquerades always run late)
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 22:15:57 +1200
Status: RO

> Teddy
> (Who has been known to travel right across the country by public
> transport in costume to get to an event... not to mention alone on
> the London underground in Rocky Horror costume on the way to
> and from the theatre to see the show)


I trecked from the Hyde Park in to Her Majesty's in London and across
København in the wedding dress from Phantom of the Opera, as well as cautch
a taxi in Hamburg in the same dress.
http://recital.tripod.com/costume/weddingdress.htm
But then again I do still dress up for Halloween (actually just started,
took a long time to catch on here in NZ).

Rocky Horror is going to be performed here later this year, and I was so
geared up to go, but Kevin Smith was supposed to play Frank, and now he is
dead. So sad, I don't think they have yet decided who will replace him.

michaela

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dumb math questions for non-US costumers
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 10:19:02 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> >(same size feet as Danielle)
> 
> LOL!  I actually got out the ruler to measure them... : ) 

Which means I don't need to bother measuring mine...<G>

> Oh, and it's good thing they didn't check my suitcases because my
> green shoes were quite muddy and I sure wouldn't have wanted them
> confiscated. 

Tut-tut, and it's the same Norfolk Countryside mud as Seanan had 
on hers.  Expect the sound of sirens and theauthorities to be 
battering down your doors in the middle of the night... Perhaps 
they'll put the area around St Paul into quarantine until everyone 
and everything has been thoroughly disinfected (or burnt?).

Or perhaps they aren't as bothered in MN as they are in California... 
<snortle!>

Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re:  [h-cost] Things you fantasize about doing in costume.
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 10:27:14 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> For those whose fantasies take them that little bit further . . .
> 
> I've just come across these two places, which can be hired as holiday
> cottages, quite cheaply:-
> 
> Medieval Longhouse
> http://www.helpfulholidays.com/property.asp?ref=J315S
> 
> Tudor wing
> http://www.helpfulholidays.com/property.asp?ref=J316S
> 
> They are both part of the same building which, if hired as a whole,
> will sleep twelve people.  Just imagine trying the effect of wearing
> historic costume in really authentic surroundings for a whole week or
> longer.  By the way, although all the buildings are in their original
> form, the kitchen and bathroom fittings and the beds are modern.
> 
> (Note:  I have no connection with the company, but have done business
> with them before, and find that they really live up to their name!)

Hi Linda,

That's not uncommon.  A friend of mine (current President of the 
Costume Guild UK) and her husband regularly rent historical 
buildings for their holidays, they're both costumers and he's a 
photographer.  They often invite costumer friends to stay with them 
so they can do costume photo shoots with spectacular parts of the 
buildings as backdrops. 

Strangely enough, however, she's only recently got into historic 
costume.  Up until then they were all science-fiction or fantasy.  
Most of the ones designed and made for her by her husband 
involving very little costume and a lot of body paint - often with 
wings of some sort...

Teddy
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 21:44:49 -0800
Status: RO



Teddy wrote:

> > So, from the individual point of view, confiscating and destroying
> > shoes because they have potentially infected mud on them seems
> > extreme, but from the larger point of view, you're balancing it
> > against vast sums in crop/livestock losses and eradication
> > programs.
>
> I still think it's nuts.  England had already been declared free of Foot-
> and-Mouth by that point and even if it hadn't they could have
> *cleaned* the shoes, returned them to her and destroyed the mud if
> they were that picky.... and then to not compensate her for the loss
> of the shoes.... absolutely NUTS

That's what they did when we moved to New Zealand (from the UK). When our
stuff came off the boat the custom guys came around, and cleaned every little

bit of grass and dirt off the lawnmower, the tent etc, put it in little
plastic bags and
took it away. Now that's service....
Claire
(On the other hand they very nearly didn't let us into the country on account
of
our family being too large...)

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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 05:43:41 -0700
Status: RO


Yes, unfortunately, the Indra.com archives aren't working.  The
auto-archive worked for a few weeks after we switched mailing software
in July, but the sysadmin and I can't figure out why it broke and
Eric's archives are more accessible (as in you can search), so I think
I'm finally going to just punt and remove the mention of Indra
archives from the list page and point people to Eric's site.

						...eliz

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Thread cutters
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 12:34:46 +0100
Status: RO


>But, from what I hear, you won't be allowed to take the *needles* on
>as cary-on so having the thread cutter will bve pretty useless

I don't know about on flights, but we went to the US Embassy in Brussels 
last week, and despite pretty thorough security, I was able to bring in my 
needle for my cross-stitch.  When we flew back to the US for Christmas, I 
asked one check-in agent about needles, and she said as long as something 
wasn't on the list, it was OK.  I suspect it probably varies depending on 
the official person and his or her mood.  I know out security check at the 
Embassy (for myself, my husband, our 15 month old, and a stroller with a 
full shopping basket) got a little rushed through at the end because there 
was one person doing all the security checks, and the line behind us was 
growing.  I suspect it's all the luck (or lack thereof) of the draw.

Kimberly

Kimberly Ellerthorpe	       	                    kre226@skynet.be
http://kimberlyrose.freeservers.com/home.htm
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 14:31:45 +0000
Status: RO

Replying to Gail and Teddy:

> millimeter
> centimenter
> decimeter
> meter
> dekameter
> hectometer
> kilometer
> 
> Substitute grams or liters for meters, and you have the same
> increments of measurement. So a hectogram is 100 grams.
> 
> I don't have a clue how much a hectogram of, say, flour would be
> (partly because I have no idea how much a gram of flour is). 

100 grams is roughly 4 oz. We learned all these units at school but
I've never heard deci-, deka- or hecto- ones actually used. 

>We have different sized cups here.   An English "standard cup" is 
>different from an American one...<g>

I don't even know what an English standard cup is; most of our recipes
require you to measure dry ingredients by weight. I know an American cup
is 8 fluid ounces. What I can't understand is how you measure fats by
volume. Perhaps it's a question of learning to guesstimate?

>> But how much is a quart? I always have to look it up. 

>Not a measurement used in England either.

Oh, yes it is! It's two pints, though, admittedly, seldom referred to
nowadays. 
Four quarts = 1 gallon

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 09:09:30 -0600
Status: RO

I recently had an interesting experience in the subtle differences
between British and American measurements. I was trying to make English
style custard (it comes as a powder made of cornstarch and is made with
hot milk for those Americans who haven't experienced English cuisine) and
my first attempt turned out extremely runny and unpalatable although I am
a good cook and followed the directions on the tin exactly. My English
friend then informed me that tablespoons are significantly bigger in
England and that an English pint is actually 20oz not 16oz as it is in
America. Once I used the English measurements he gave me (English
tablespoons are HUGE!!!), the custard turned out fine. I still think it's
weird to make something called 'custard' without eggs......but I'm an
American, what do I know?


Karen 

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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 10:21:09 EST
Status: RO


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In a message dated 3/19/02 5:08:32 AM Eastern Standard Time, teddy1@mdx.ac.uk 
writes:


> I still think it's nuts.  England had already been declared free of Foot-
> and-Mouth by that point and even if it hadn't they could have 
> *cleaned* the shoes, returned them to her and destroyed the mud if 
> they were that picky.... and then to not compensate her for the loss 
> 

       I have to agree with Teddy.  Paranoia is an ugly thing and this 
country is going a bit overboard these days.  We will be lucky if we don't 
end up in a dictatorship in the next couple of years at the rate we are going 
right now.

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 3/19/02 5:08:32 AM Eastern Standard Time, teddy1@mdx.ac.uk writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I still think it's nuts. &nbsp;England had already been declared free of Foot-
<BR>and-Mouth by that point and even if it hadn't they could have 
<BR>*cleaned* the shoes, returned them to her and destroyed the mud if 
<BR>they were that picky.... and then to not compensate her for the loss 
<BR>of the shoes.... absolutely NUTS</BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I have to agree with Teddy. &nbsp;Paranoia is an ugly thing and this country is going a bit overboard these days. &nbsp;We will be lucky if we don't end up in a dictatorship in the next couple of years at the rate we are going right now.
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] Upcoming "Stylish Ladies" exhibit
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 10:22:32 EST
Status: RO

Hello everyone,

>From April 6 to June 2, 2002, the Durham Western Heritage Museum in Omaha NE 
will have an exhibit titled "Stylish Ladies".  There's not much information 
on the website yet, but I was down there the other day for the Lewis and 
Clark exhibit and the woman at the front counter said it will include dresses 
from the 1860's to the 1960's.

It's in one of the smaller galleries, not the big one used for travelling 
exhibits, but if you're going to be in the area you might want to check it 
out.

Oh, yeah, the website for further information -- http://www.dwhm.org

Leah
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 15:41:38 GMT
Status: RO

Seamstrix@juno.com wrote :

> ...I was trying to make English
> style custard (it comes as a powder made of cornstarch and is made with
> hot milk for those Americans who haven't experienced English cuisine) ....I still think it's
> weird to make something called 'custard' without eggs......but I'm an
> American, what do I know?

Think of it as "instant custard sauce". Like those packet mixes of Hollandaise sauce and so on, but bought in bulk. A few of us still know how to make "real" custard, but life is too short to stir eggs over a gentle heat when you can go "powder, milk, microwave, 3 min".





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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 20:59:38 -0800
Status: RO

At 11:21 PM -0500 3/18/02, leigh tartaglio wrote:
>Hi, All. Just got my David Brown/Oxbow Books catalog and wanted to point out
>a few books that might be of interest to some on the list.
>"The Devil's Cloth: a History of stripes and striped fabric" by Michel
>Pastoureau 2001 Columbia UP 0231123663 (I suppose this is the ISBN?) $22.95
>BP 16.95

Pastoureau writes on some fascinating topics -- he has a new book on 
about the social history of the color blue -- but some of his 
philosophical positions (to say nothing about his tendency towards 
peculiarly fixed ideas) set my teeth on edge.  "The Devil's Cloth" 
reads like the book of a man who designed a conclusion and then went 
looking for data to support it.  Great pictures, though!

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] things you fantasize to do in costume
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 15:54:30 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 
> I trecked from the Hyde Park in to Her Majesty's in London and
> across København in the wedding dress from Phantom of the Opera, as
> well as cautch a taxi in Hamburg in the same dress.
> http://recital.tripod.com/costume/weddingdress.htm But then again
> I do still dress up for Halloween (actually just started, took a
> long time to catch on here in NZ). 

Excellent!
 
> Rocky Horror is going to be performed here later this year, and I was
> so geared up to go, but Kevin Smith was supposed to play Frank, and
> now he is dead. So sad, I don't think they have yet decided who will
> replace him.

I hope you'll go to see it anyway... and in costume too!
 


Teddy

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N11 2NQ
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Goodness, is that how it goes?  I've been sort of following this thread, =
mostly deleting it, because..well, because I find it so weird to have dif=
ferent increments like this.

The names of the increments *sound* really orderly and logical, but I don=
't know the actual *physical* amount.  It's like languages.  And if you r=
eally think about it, It's about language.

So, is a millimeter equivalent to an 1/8 inch?  or is it smaller?  Or big=
ger?

*sigh*

I guess I have to just make sure I *never* lose my measuring tools that h=
ave both measuring systems on them.  Or (because I did a lot of deleting)=
 is there going to be another measurement system?

Gia/Giacinta
the math challenged

----- Original Message -----
From: Gail & Scott Finke
Sent: Monday, March 18, 2002 4:01 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: metric measurements


Come now, Teddy! It's not that hard:

millimeter
centimenter
decimeter
meter
dekameter
hectometer
kilometer

Substitute grams or liters for meters, and you have the same increments o=
f
measurement. So a hectogram is 100 grams.

I don't have a clue how much a hectogram of, say, flour would be (partly
because I have no idea how much a gram of flour is). But I have to admit =
it
has a nice orderliness to it. I know how much a cup of flour is. But how
much is a quart? I always have to look it up.

Gail Finke


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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>Goodness, is t=
hat how it goes?&nbsp; I've been sort of following this thread, mostly de=
leting it, because..well, because I find it so weird to have different in=
crements like this.</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>The names of the increme=
nts *sound* really orderly and logical, but I don't know the actual *phys=
ical* amount.&nbsp; It's like languages.&nbsp; And if you really think ab=
out it, It's about language.</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>So, is a millim=
eter equivalent to an 1/8 inch?&nbsp; or is it smaller?&nbsp; Or bigger?<=
/DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>*sigh*</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>I guess =
I have to just make sure I *never* lose my measuring tools that have both=
 measuring systems on them.&nbsp; Or (because I did a lot of deleting) is=
 there going to be another measurement system?</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <D=
IV>Gia/Giacinta</DIV> <DIV>the math challenged</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <B=
LOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5p=
x; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style=3D"FONT=
: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message -----</DIV> <DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND=
: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt Arial; COLOR: black"><B>From:</B> Gail &amp; Scott =
Finke</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, March 18=
, 2002 4:01 PM</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>To:</B> h-costume=
@indra.com</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Subject:</B> [h-cost]=
 Re: metric measurements</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV><BR>Come now, Teddy! It's=
 not that hard:<BR><BR>millimeter<BR>centimenter<BR>decimeter<BR>meter<BR=
>dekameter<BR>hectometer<BR>kilometer<BR><BR>Substitute grams or liters f=
or meters, and you have the same increments of<BR>measurement. So a hecto=
gram is 100 grams.<BR><BR>I don't have a clue how much a hectogram of, sa=
y, flour would be (partly<BR>because I have no idea how much a gram of fl=
our is). But I have to admit it<BR>has a nice orderliness to it. I know h=
ow much a cup of flour is. But how<BR>much is a quart? I always have to l=
ook it up.<BR><BR>Gail Finke<BR><BR><BR>_________________________________=
______________<BR>h-costume mailing list<BR>h-costume@mail.indra.com<BR>h=
ttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></=
HTML>

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] metric measurements
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> >> But how much is a quart? I always have to look it up. 
> 
> >Not a measurement used in England either.
> 
> Oh, yes it is! It's two pints, though, admittedly, seldom referred to
> nowadays. Four quarts = 1 gallon

Really?  Thanks Kate!  I've never heard of it being used here before 
though I've come across plenty of references to it in American films 
and TV shows.

Teddy
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As an american, the instant lifestyle is really getting to be so universa=
l.  I still have folks who are amazed that I love to cook from scratch...=
but that's ok.  I have a really good reason!  My youngest has food allerg=
ies and the best way to make sure the food doesn't have what she's allerg=
ic to, is to make it from scratch.

And a major bonus:  I find it usually *tastes* better.  To get this onto =
a costume note, I find it so satisfying to make food 'period' to eat whil=
e I and my family and friends enjoy the repast in costumes.  Feasts from =
another time, a wonderful respite from the hectic, crazy world to really =
unwind and indulge in crafts such as needlepoint, pottery or other things=
 while the food is cooking or to enjoy the company of my friends in the k=
itchen as we all do things for the feast.

That's sounds sooooo silly, but I gotta take my relief when and how I can=
...My life is crazy and horrible (at times) to need this.

Gia/Giacinta
----- Original Message -----
From: Jane Williams
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 7:58 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Cc: Jane Williams
Subject: Re: [h-cost] metric measurements

Seamstrix@juno.com wrote :

> ...I was trying to make English
> style custard (it comes as a powder made of cornstarch and is made with
> hot milk for those Americans who haven't experienced English cuisine) .=
...I still think it's
> weird to make something called 'custard' without eggs......but I'm an
> American, what do I know?

Think of it as "instant custard sauce". Like those packet mixes of Hollan=
daise sauce and so on, but bought in bulk. A few of us still know how to =
make "real" custard, but life is too short to stir eggs over a gentle hea=
t when you can go "powder, milk, microwave, 3 min".





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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <=
DIV>As an american, the instant lifestyle is really getting to be so univ=
ersal.&nbsp; I still have folks who are amazed that I love to cook from s=
cratch...but that's ok.&nbsp; I have a really good reason!&nbsp; My young=
est has food allergies and the best way to make sure the food doesn't hav=
e what she's allergic to, is to make it from scratch.</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</=
DIV> <DIV>And a major bonus:&nbsp; I find it usually *tastes* better.&nbs=
p; To get this onto a costume note, I find it so satisfying to make food =
'period' to eat while I and my family and friends enjoy the repast in cos=
tumes.&nbsp; Feasts from another time, a wonderful respite from the hecti=
c, crazy world to really unwind and indulge in crafts such as needlepoint=
, pottery or other things while the food is cooking or to enjoy the compa=
ny of my friends in the kitchen as we all do things for the feast.</DIV> =
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>That's sounds sooooo silly, but I gotta take my re=
lief when and how I can...My life is crazy and horrible (at times) to nee=
d this.</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Gia/Giacinta</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style=
=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT:=
 #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial">-=
---- Original Message -----</DIV> <DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT=
: 10pt Arial; COLOR: black"><B>From:</B> Jane Williams</DIV> <DIV style=3D=
"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, March 19, 2002 7:58 AM</DIV> <DI=
V style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>To:</B> h-costume@indra.com</DIV> <DIV st=
yle=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Cc:</B> Jane Williams</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FON=
T: 10pt Arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [h-cost] metric measurements</DIV> <DI=
V>&nbsp;</DIV>Seamstrix@juno.com wrote :<BR><BR>&gt; ...I was trying to m=
ake English<BR>&gt; style custard (it comes as a powder made of cornstarc=
h and is made with<BR>&gt; hot milk for those Americans who haven't exper=
ienced English cuisine) ....I still think it's<BR>&gt; weird to make some=
thing called 'custard' without eggs......but I'm an<BR>&gt; American, wha=
t do I know?<BR><BR>Think of it as "instant custard sauce". Like those pa=
cket mixes of Hollandaise sauce and so on, but bought in bulk. A few of u=
s still know how to make "real" custard, but life is too short to stir eg=
gs over a gentle heat when you can go "powder, milk, microwave, 3 min".<B=
R><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR>_______________________________________________<BR>=
h-costume mailing list<BR>h-costume@mail.indra.com<BR>http://mail.indra.c=
om/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] metric measurements
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 16:20:53 +0000 (GMT)
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Karen

True custard is made with eggs (even in England).  What you were making sounds like Bird's Custard
Powder, which is everyday type custard rather than the fancy egg custard, or at least it is in my
house.  Bird's was made by a Victorian gentleman whose wife was allergic to eggs and so couldn't
have custard.  He invented this egg free powder that you add to milk and hey presto instant
custard was born.  It's lovely stuff and my other half with happily eat a bowl of the stuff on its
own!

Strange though about the pints and tablespoons I assumed that they would be the same.  So how
large is an American tablespoon?

Rachel

 --- seamstrix@juno.com wrote: > I recently had an interesting experience in the subtle
differences
> between British and American measurements. I was trying to make English
> style custard (it comes as a powder made of cornstarch and is made with
> hot milk for those Americans who haven't experienced English cuisine) and
> my first attempt turned out extremely runny and unpalatable although I am
> a good cook and followed the directions on the tin exactly. My English
> friend then informed me that tablespoons are significantly bigger in
> England and that an English pint is actually 20oz not 16oz as it is in
> America. Once I used the English measurements he gave me (English
> tablespoons are HUGE!!!), the custard turned out fine. I still think it's
> weird to make something called 'custard' without eggs......but I'm an
> American, what do I know?
> 
> 
> Karen 
> 
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
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<<So, is a millimeter equivalent to an 1/8 inch?  or is it smaller?  Or 
bigger?>>
 
       A millimeter is less than half of an eighth of an inch.  When you stop 
and think about it, the metric system is really easier than the inches and 
pints and teaspoons we use here in the US.  There are twelve inches in a foot 
and three feet in a yard.  There are ten millimeters in a centimeter and a 
hundred centimeters in a meter.  Then when you start with teaspoons, pints, 
gallons, ounces and so forth, all with their own different ways of graduating 
it is amazing that we ever learned it at all.  Graduating everything by ten 
is so much easier.

       I am a 67 year old US citizen, born and raised, but I like the metric 
system better than this jumble we deal with.  OK, now I will sit back and 
take my beating.  

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>&lt;&lt;So, is a millimeter equivalent to an 1/8 inch? &nbsp;or is it smaller? &nbsp;Or bigger?&gt;&gt;
<BR> 
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;A millimeter is less than half of an eighth of an inch. &nbsp;When you stop and think about it, the metric system is really easier than the inches and pints and teaspoons we use here in the US. &nbsp;There are twelve inches in a foot and three feet in a yard. &nbsp;There are ten millimeters in a centimeter and a hundred centimeters in a meter. &nbsp;Then when you start with teaspoons, pints, gallons, ounces and so forth, all with their own different ways of graduating it is amazing that we ever learned it at all. &nbsp;Graduating everything by ten is so much easier.
<BR>
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I am a 67 year old US citizen, born and raised, but I like the metric system better than this jumble we deal with. &nbsp;OK, now I will sit back and take my beating. &nbsp;
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: metric measurements
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 16:29:09 GMT
Status: RO

Gia Gavino <giagavino@msn.com> wrote :

> So, is a millimeter equivalent to an 1/8 inch?&nbsp; or is it smaller?&nbsp; Or bigger? 

Well, I remember there are 2-and-a-bit centimetres to an inch. So there must be *about* 24 millimetres to an inch. And an eighth of 24 is three: so an eighth is about 3 mm?

Holding two multi-system rulers against each other: yes, that looks about right.

BTW, a related thought.  The material we use for counted crosstitch is measured in Holes Per Inch (HPI), with 14 being the standard, 18 being popular, and so on. Do countries that use purely metric systems have different fabrics? Or do you end up with 5.51 Holes Per Centimetre? Or what?





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From: "Daniel Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] metric measurements
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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 08:44:16 -0800
Status: RO

> Really?  Thanks Kate!  I've never heard of it being used here before
> though I've come across plenty of references to it in American films
> and TV shows.

A quart is a farely common unit in the US.  Milk (and other liquids) tend ot
be sold by the quart, half gallon and gallon.  Paint is sold by the quart
and gallon, etc.

Dan

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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 08:47:48 -0800
Status: RO

> Strange though about the pints and tablespoons I assumed that they would
be the same.  So how
> large is an American tablespoon?

A pint is 16 ounces and a table spoon is 3 teaspoons.

Now, manufacturers of silver ware have started making both types of spoons
shallower, so the spoons that come with your silverware don't actually hold
as much as they did 20 years ago.  But, measuring spoons are still the same
amounts.

Dan

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