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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 14:02:53 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

I've got a snafu on my hands and need to dye an outfit
with about 15 meters of various fabrics in it.
Haven't dyed anything since I was a kid and nothing on
this scale  :0

Outer layer is 100% cotton.
Inner lining is cotton flannel.
Lining is silk.

Can anyone advise me on how to do this  with UK
products and a frontload washing machine? 

Thanks,

Marcus/Mangal

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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 14:40:57 BST
Status: RO

Marcus Findlay-arthur <mangal_sews@yahoo.co.uk> wrote :

> Can anyone advise me on how to do this  with UK
> products and a frontload washing machine? 

Teddy undoubtedly could: but he's got a major flood of work at the moment and probably won't be reading his emails for a bit. Can it wait till he recovers?





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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 14:38:26 +0100
Status: RO

>Outer layer is 100% cotton.
Inner lining is cotton flannel.
Lining is silk.

However you dye it if it is made up like this the results will not have one
consistant colour

Is it 15m to go into your machine ? If so don't take it to a local dyehose
unless you are OK about unlevel dyeing.

Sorry

Mel

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jul  1 10:47:59 2002
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Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 09:08:22 -0500
Status: RO

I would like to invite H-Costume members to take a look at my new
webpage--http://www.uttyl.edu/vbetts.  So far it includes three main
parts--newspaper articles (mostly Southern, searchable either by word or
chronologically by title, plus a few subjects pulled together such as
"homespun" or "knitted items"), a Godey's index for 1855-1865 (also
searchable by word or by particular volume), and a bibliography of
books, articles, theses, dissertations, calendars, and CD-ROMS for
civilian clothing, 1840-1865, mostly American, all English language.

Vicki Betts
vbetts@gower.net
http://www.uttyl.edu/vbetts

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jul  1 11:23:56 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] H-Cost:  Wench Costume
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Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 01:12:37 -0500
Status: RO

Greetings,

One of the paintings I noticed that has the most "wench" like look is the 
Judith with the Head of Holofernes, 
1512.http://www.civictrustwales.demon.co.uk/a205/lotto/early_years.html

The bodice is cut under the bust and looks a lot like some of the "wench" 
outfits I've seen.  It could be someone saw this and forgot (or didn't 
know) that one doesn't take religious or allegorical images as "fact."  As 
for when the whole trend started in faires & reenactment?  I have no idea. : )

Cheers,
Danielle

At 11:30 AM 6/29/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>I'm trying to trace the history of the "wench" costume meant to represent
>16th century lower class women's clothing. I've had good luck finding the
>origins of the style, in woodcuts and painting, and there's ample
>documentation for late 20th century interpretation thereof.
>
>What I'm looking for now is some evidence of when the style crystalized
>into a conventional "costume".  It seems to have been present from the
>earliest days of Hollywood, so I'm suspecting I should look earlier,
>possibly in the 19th century.  Can anyone recommend books, websites, etc,
>that might help?
>
>Margo
>"One Tough Costumer"

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Thread-Topic: [h-cost] Dye help UK style
From: "freyalyn" <freyalyn@ivillage.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dye help UK style
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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I have had great success with Dylon dyes for machine - but in order to
get a really strong colour you often need more than one pack. These also
only work on cellulose fibres - cotton, linen, rayon. Synthetic fibres
need another sort of dye altogether, and I don't have any experience of
dying with these. Wool I wouldn't dye in the machine.

Dylon dyes are readily available in all sorts of places in the UK:
haberdashers, hardware shops, some supermarkets, market stalls. Just
keep looking. They probably have a website.

Freyalyn



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Sign up for FREE iVillage newsletters <http://s.ivillage.com/rd/16705> .
>From health and pregnancy to shopping and relationships, iVillage
has the scoop on what matters most to you. <-----Original Message----->
> 
> From: jane@williams.nildram.co.uk
> Sent: 7/1/2002 11:12:57 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Cc: jane@williams.nildram.co.uk
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dye help UK style
> 
> Marcus Findlay-arthur wrote :
> 
> Can anyone advise me on how to do this with UK
> products and a frontload washing machine? 
> 
> Teddy undoubtedly could: but he's got a major flood of work at the
moment and probably won't be 
> reading his emails for a bit. Can it wait till he recovers?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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I have had great success with Dylon dyes for machine - but in order to get a really strong colour you often need more than one pack.  These also only work on cellulose fibres - cotton, linen, rayon.  Synthetic fibres need another sort of dye altogether, and I don't have any experience of dying with these.  Wool I wouldn't dye in the machine.<br>
<br>
Dylon dyes are readily available in all sorts of places in the UK: haberdashers, hardware shops, some supermarkets, market stalls.  Just keep looking.  They probably have a website.<br>
<br>
Freyalyn<br>
<br>

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<BR><font face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2" style="font-size:13.5px">_______________________________________________________________<BR>Sign up for <A HREF="http://s.ivillage.com/rd/16705">FREE iVillage newsletters</A>.<BR>From health and pregnancy to shopping and relationships, iVillage<BR>has the scoop on what matters most to you.

</font><-----Original Message-----><br>
>  <br>
> From: jane@williams.nildram.co.uk<br>
> Sent: 7/1/2002 11:12:57 PM<br>
> To: h-costume@indra.com<br>
> Cc: jane@williams.nildram.co.uk<br>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dye help UK style<br>
> <br>
> Marcus Findlay-arthur  wrote :<br>
> <br>
> Can anyone advise me on how to do this  with UK<br>
> products and a frontload washing machine? <br>
> <br>
> Teddy undoubtedly could: but he's got a major flood of work at the moment and probably won't be <br>
> reading his emails for a bit. Can it wait till he recovers?<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 16:19:12 BST
Status: RO

Freyalyn <freyalyn@ivillage.com> wrote :

> Dylon dyes are readily available in all sorts of places in the UK: haberdashers, hardware shops, some supermarkets, market stalls.  Just keep looking. 

Woolworths stock them.

> They probably have a website.

http://www.dylon.co.uk/

And very informative, too.






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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] historic "sunglasses" for Renaissance faires
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Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 08:33:59 -0700
Status: RO


>It is sometimes difficult to be specific when the foreign language vocabulary
>is missing :-)
>anyway, the loops that you see are actually thread loops, attached to leg-less
>glasses. they were like what in germany is called a 'zwicker', glasses that
>were pinched onto the bridge of the nose without any earpieces, but some
>attached thread loops which were looped around the ears. Helped a little 
>bit to
>keepthem up.
>the modern idea of earpieces in the form of 'legs' attached to the actual
>'zwicker' glass piece, which can be opened and closed, is mid 18th century.
>
>I hope my strange use of odd vocabulary makes more sense now...

Even the native-English-speaking folks were confusing on this point.  So 
none of the hard side pieces that just go over the ears, only soft 
ear-loops.  So I could take a pair of modern glasses, where the 
lens-holding front parts were the right shape, take off the hard 
side-pieces, and put on soft ear-loops instead.

Kayta

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] H-Cost:  Wench Costume
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Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 08:59:01 -0700
Status: RO

Look into folk costume worn in Europe in the 1800s.  Start with that 
Victorian book by Braun and Schneider (Dover reprinted it as 'Historic 
Costume in Pictures').  You will find a few late 1700s outfits and many 
many 1800s outfits that have the same basic bodice-shirt-skirt 
combination.  The German 'dirndl' is an example.  Folkwear's ethnic vest 
pattern shows several more examples.

The crystallization you speak of happened in the mid-1800s, along with 
things like German Nationalism, when industrialization, and cosmopolitan 
city life, were seen to be melting down (western European) ethnic 
differences.  Many folk costumes were 'revived' at that time, to give the 
various Europeans a sense of their (nationalistic) roots.  Some single 
example of what the locals used to wear was chosen to represent the way 
things were, and many of them fossilized into 'Regional Costume' at that 
point (think what Ren Fair did to the sum total of what people wore in 
Elizabeth I's reign, and you've got the picture).  Grimm's fairy tales were 
collected, Joan of Arc was canonized, Wagner was writing operas, 
Neuschwanstein was built, and the Gothic Revival and Pre-Raphaelite 
movements were active (among other things), because of this same urge.

>I'm trying to trace the history of the "wench" costume meant to represent
>16th century lower class women's clothing. I've had good luck finding the
>origins of the style, in woodcuts and painting, and there's ample
>documentation for late 20th century interpretation thereof.
>
>What I'm looking for now is some evidence of when the style crystalized
>into a conventional "costume".  It seems to have been present from the
>earliest days of Hollywood, so I'm suspecting I should look earlier,
>possibly in the 19th century.  Can anyone recommend books, websites, etc,
>that might help?
>
>Margo
>"One Tough Costumer"
>
>
>See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Kayta

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Info regarding nun's habits...
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Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 09:07:45 -0700
Status: RO


>The reason I'm
>interested in it's construction (as opposed to the spiffy 19th century
>veil arrangement) is that it looks darn close to a 16th century
>french hood.

Nuns' veils were what married women were wearing when the particular order 
was founded, as re-interpreted over time.  So this may well be derived from 
a 16th century example.

>If anyone has any information on where I can find out how this veil
>might be constructed (I'm not worried about authenticity at this
>point), I'd love to hear it!  I saw some nuns in my neighborhood the
>other day wearing just such a hood, but I felt it might be
>inappropriate to strike up a conversation and ask to see their
>headgear inside and out...

I encountered a Carmelite, in full dress, in a craft store in California, 
and did just that.  I tried to sound like a student of historical 
costuming, not just a goggle-eyed tourist.  She was very co-operative, and 
informative.  While she didn't remove any garment, she told me names of the 
various layers, and when her order was founded.  Her habit did look vaguely 
like a married lady of that period.  (This was years ago, and I have 
forgotten all the pertinent information.)

Kayta

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] historic "sunglasses" for Renaissance faires
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Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 09:09:20 -0700
Status: RO


>But still I love amber it is so pretty and versatile and one can do so 
>much with it.

But it's the wrong colour for some of us to look good in.  I own some, of 
my grandmothers', but I never wear it.


Kayta

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] historic "sunglasses" for Renaissance faires
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 18:11:53 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote: > 

> Even the native-English-speaking folks were confusing on this point.  So 
> none of the hard side pieces that just go over the ears, only soft 
> ear-loops.  So I could take a pair of modern glasses, where the 
> lens-holding front parts were the right shape, take off the hard 
> side-pieces, and put on soft ear-loops instead.

You might find though that they will slip terribly because they weren't made to
sit on the bridge of the nose. They will probably be too wide there. It's worth
a try though.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] H-Cost:  Wench Costume
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Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 23:31:47 +0100
Status: RO

Does this book have a design for Edward III and Phillippa of Hainault? 
I've always loved Queen Victoria's version of this, with a fur-edged 
sideless surcoat over a crinoline.  I'd be tickled if she got it from a 
book!

Jean


Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote
>
>On Sat, 29 Jun 2002, Margo Anderson wrote:
>
>> What I'm looking for now is some evidence of when the style
>> crystalized into a conventional "costume".  It seems to have been
>> present from the earliest days of Hollywood, so I'm suspecting I
>> should look earlier, possibly in the 19th century.  Can anyone
>> recommend books, websites, etc, that might help?
>
>For one stop along the path, you might check rare book rooms for a
>Victorian book called "Fancy Dresses Described" by Ardern Holt. This first
>came out in the late 1870s as a how-to manual for ladies going to costume
>balls, which were enormously popular at this time. The copy I examined in
>the Newberry Library in Chicago was a fifth edition (1887), so it was
>obviously a popular book! That one had some hand-colored plates, though
>I've seen cheaper copies that did not. I wouldn't be surprised if you
>could find a copy here and there on open shelving in some university
>libraries or old city libraries.
>
>The book included instructions for dressing up as various historical
>characters (Queen Elizabeth, Joan of Arc, Mary Queen of Scots), literary
>characters, generic occupational types, birds, plants, insects, and even
>inanimate objects (e.g. you become the allegory of a tea set or a deck of
>cards). These various costumes were apparently recognizable enough to have
>standard treatments, which were codified in the book.  I wouldn't be
>surprised if there's some equivalent to your "wench" in there, perhaps
>under "tavern maid" or something.
>
>The costumes aren't at all historically accurate, though the author swears
>for the book's "correctness of descriptions and accuracy of details."
>They're essentially Victorian dresses jazzed up with details that evoke
>the Victorian idea of a particular period or place. The "medieval"
>description includes things like "pink gauze" and a "short skirt of
>striped red and white silk." For one 16th-century character, the author
>points out that the description is painstakingly based on a historical
>painting -- but the painting in question is from 1832!
>
>Which brings me to another place to look: Victorian historical paintings.
>This is *before* the pre-Raphaelites. Medieval and Renaissance images were
>very popular painting at this time, and certain "looks" were formalized in
>the genre. You'll find a few such paintings reproduced in "The Return to
>Camelot," a history of the Victorian British love affair with the
>medieval; you may not find a "wench," but you'll get the names of some
>painters whose works may be worth tracking down.
>
>Another place to look is illustrated children's books from this period.
>Certain fairy-tale "types," including the lower-class attractive female,
>were standardized in book illustration long before Hollywood.
>
>--Robin
>
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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On Sun, 30 Jun 2002, Jean Waddie wrote:

> Does this book have a design for Edward III and Phillippa of Hainault?  
> I've always loved Queen Victoria's version of this, with a fur-edged
> sideless surcoat over a crinoline.  I'd be tickled if she got it from
> a book!

I don't know if there's something in the book for these monarchs -- very
possibly there is. But that particular dress was designed for Queen
Victoria, at her request, for her Plantagenet ball of 1842, more than 30
years before "Fancy Dresses Described" was published. 

Victoria's costume designer, James Robinson Planche, was a theater
designer and heraldic scholar; he wrote entertainments and produced
pageants, and considered himself an antiquarian as well. (His
autobiography, which runs to multiple volumes, makes clear he did not
underestimate his own brilliance.) Planche is a familiar enough name to
costumers because he established himself as the foremost British costume
expert of the 19th century. In 1834, he published a "new and improved"
(his words) edition of Strutt's landmark costume history of 1796. (My own
opinion: It was NOT an improvement.) Planche's own costume book came out
in 1847, with a new edition in 1881. I occasionally find it, or his
"Cyclopedia of Costume," on open shelves at old libraries.

Planche is not a particularly good source for medieval costume, as he
tended to make up information to fill in gaps in the evidence.
(Unfortunately many of his assumptions and inventions persist even today
in costume books.) But he is a very good source for the Victorian
interpretation of medieval costume, since his work defined much of the
movement.

I believe you can see a portrait of Victoria and Albert in Planche's
Plantaganet costumes, as well as others of Planche's costume designs for
the Plantaganet ball, in "The Return to Camelot" by Girourard.

(The development of costume scholarship is one of my favorite research
areas.)

--Robin

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dye help UK style
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Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 09:10:14 -0700
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>I've got a snafu on my hands and need to dye an outfit
>with about 15 meters of various fabrics in it.
>Haven't dyed anything since I was a kid and nothing on
>this scale  :0
>
>Outer layer is 100% cotton.
>Inner lining is cotton flannel.
>Lining is silk.
>
>Can anyone advise me on how to do this  with UK
>products and a frontload washing machine?

Dylon.  I wish I could still get it here in California.


Kayta

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In a message dated 7/1/02 6:13:27 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
judymitch@oldwaylane.net writes:
> 
>     I'm still wondering how easy it would be/would have been to 
> slice the amber thin enough to look through

       As an experienced amateur lapidary, I can tell you that amber is so 
soft it can be worked with woodworking tools.  It isn't brittle and there is 
no reason it couldn't be sliced thin if that is what you want and can find a 
piece large enough.  However, it would be hard to find a piece clear enough 
as it is filled with bits and pieces of debris and bubbles.  The slicing 
would be easy, but the polishing it would be a pain -- possible, but not fun. 
 Just polishing an amber cab is a challenge if you try to use regular 
lapidary equipment.  It just wants to melt. 

Lalah
Never Give up, Never Surrender,
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Looking for a great gift?  Check out Beary Classy Bears at
http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 7/1/02 6:13:27 AM Eastern Daylight Time, judymitch@oldwaylane.net writes:
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I'm still wondering how easy it would be/would have been to 
<BR>slice the amber thin enough to look through</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;As an experienced amateur lapidary, I can tell you that amber is so soft it can be worked with woodworking tools. &nbsp;It isn't brittle and there is no reason it couldn't be sliced thin if that is what you want and can find a piece large enough. &nbsp;However, it would be hard to find a piece clear enough as it is filled with bits and pieces of debris and bubbles. &nbsp;The slicing would be easy, but the polishing it would be a pain -- possible, but not fun. &nbsp;Just polishing an amber cab is a challenge if you try to use regular lapidary equipment. &nbsp;It just wants to melt. 
<BR>
<BR>Lalah
<BR>Never Give up, Never Surrender,
<BR>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
<BR>Looking for a great gift? &nbsp;Check out Beary Classy Bears at
<BR>http://hometown.aol.com/bearyclassybears/myhomepage/sale.html
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 14:12:18 -0500
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Not to mention that all his books cost over 500.00 if you can even find a
copy! There used to be a bookseller offering to see it to me for over a year
swearing that it had great glove documentation in it. Too much money for me
to spend and cannot justify. Robin, can you look at the book again and tell
if it has anything about gloves? It was perpetually out here in the Collin
County library system and now it is totally off the lists. :(

Ches
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, July 01, 2002 1:29 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] H-Cost: Wench Costume
---------------snip----------------------

>
>
costume designer, James Robinson Planche, was a theater
> designer and heraldic scholar; he wrote entertainments and produced
> pageants, and considered himself an antiquarian as well. (His
> autobiography, which runs to multiple volumes, makes clear he did not
> underestimate his own brilliance.) Planche is a familiar enough name to
> costumers because he established himself as the foremost British costume
> expert of the 19th century. In 1834, he published a "new and improved"
> (his words) edition of Strutt's landmark costume history of 1796. (My own
> opinion: It was NOT an improvement.) Planche's own costume book came out
> in 1847, with a new edition in 1881. I occasionally find it, or his
> "Cyclopedia of Costume," on open shelves at old libraries.
>
> Planche is not a particularly good source for medieval costume, as he
> tended to make up information to fill in gaps in the evidence.
> (Unfortunately many of his assumptions and inventions persist even today
> in costume books.) But he is a very good source for the Victorian
> interpretation of medieval costume, since his work defined much of the
> movement.
>
> I believe you can see a portrait of Victoria and Albert in Planche's
> Plantaganet costumes, as well as others of Planche's costume designs for
> the Plantaganet ball, in "The Return to Camelot" by Girourard.
>
> (The development of costume scholarship is one of my favorite research
> areas.)
>
> --Robin


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In a message dated 6/21/02 7:32:52 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
sherylnd@sound.net writes:


> I actually wrote an article on Inter Library Loan services for
> Mary Denise Smith's "Costume & Dressmaker" magazine a few
> years back. Until I started doing the research for it, I had no
> idea how much money my own library spent on shipping costs
> to send books out around the country. And salaries for
> three full-time people to run it. All for a free service. All so that our
> patrons can get the books that we don't have here.
> 

Sheryl,

Do you have a copy of that article you wrote?  I would love to read it.

Kit


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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 6/21/02 7:32:52 AM Pacific Daylight Time, sherylnd@sound.net writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I actually wrote an article on Inter Library Loan services for
<BR>Mary Denise Smith's "Costume &amp; Dressmaker" magazine a few
<BR>years back. Until I started doing the research for it, I had no
<BR>idea how much money my own library spent on shipping costs
<BR>to send books out around the country. And salaries for
<BR>three full-time people to run it. All for a free service. All so that our
<BR>patrons can get the books that we don't have here.
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR>Sheryl,
<BR>
<BR>Do you have a copy of that article you wrote? &nbsp;I would love to read it.
<BR>
<BR>Kit
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 13:17:14 -0700
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This isn't about costume directly but it is about historical food.  And 
what's a historical feast without historic costume, I ask you!  (A naked 
lunch (but that's another story.))  This exciting article in the Manchester 
Guardian from Thursday, passed along on another list:

http://www.guardian.co.uk/uklatest/story/0,1271,-1838714,00.html

Gee, I wonder if we know any English librarians who could get close to 
this... ;-)


MaggiRos




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> Planche is not a particularly good source for medieval costume, as he
> tended to make up information to fill in gaps in the evidence.
> (Unfortunately many of his assumptions and inventions persist even
> today in costume books.) But he is a very good source for the
> Victorian interpretation of medieval costume, since his work defined
> much of the movement.

Amen to that. Same with Braun and Schneider, Racinet and that 
ilk.

Another one who had a tendency to "fill in the gaps" is Diderot. 
While he has some good stuff for the 18th Century (when he wrote 
*his* encyclopedia), the earlier periods are pretty scary. Yet, like 
Planche, his inventions and assumptions are quoted endlessly in 
costume books. 

Norris quotes both of them extensively. One of the things that the 
lady who I was apprenticed to did for me is to have me read 
(beginning to end, not just my favorite time period) a long list of 
"standard" costume books. (Kelly & Schwabe, Norris, Davenport, 
Boucher, Kohler,  von Boehn, etc. It was a list of over 20 authors, 
some of which have several books, like Norris and von Boehn.) It 
really gave me an interesting perspective on costuming books. It 
also made me learn to question almost everything I find written as 
being "the way" to make something. You start seeing (especially if 
you know the date the book was written) how the costumers of the 
time saw things and how much gets crystallized by being 
endlessly quoted (even when very much wrong.)


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 16:52:37 -0700
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> > Even the native-English-speaking folks were confusing on this point.  So
> > none of the hard side pieces that just go over the ears, only soft
> > ear-loops.  So I could take a pair of modern glasses, where the
> > lens-holding front parts were the right shape, take off the hard
> > side-pieces, and put on soft ear-loops instead.
>
>You might find though that they will slip terribly because they weren't 
>made to
>sit on the bridge of the nose. They will probably be too wide there. It's 
>worth
>a try though.

Once I figured out that the hard side-pieces could go, I realized that any 
other aspect of the frames could be modified too.  So if they refused to 
seat snugly on my nose, I could reshape the nose pads till they did, using 
Fimo, or that two-part Epoxy mending putty sold to handyman-plumbers.  A 
tiny pair of felt pads would keep all the modeling stuff away from my skin, 
in case I had a chemical reaction to it.  (Thrift stores are a good source 
of cheap frames, unless your eye doctor says he/she can't fit lenses to them.)


Kayta

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Subject: [h-cost] Conference on Mid-Nineteenth Century Clothing
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 20:19:29 -0400
Status: RO

Those of you interested in mid-nineteenth century clothing and culture might
be interested in this information.  The information is being posted to
several lists; my apologies if you receive multiple copies.

The Ninth Annual Ladies of the 1860s Conference will be held on March 7-9,
2003 in Harrisburg, PA.  The conference offers presentations on a variety of
topics relating to the clothing and culture of the mid-nineteenth century.
The program also includes pre-conference seminars (both hands-on and
lecture/demonstration), a juried vendor area, continually changing displays
of original garments, undergarments, accessories, jewelry and other items of
material culture, a competition for the best reproduction of a period
bonnet, and a juried vendor area.  The 2003 conference will also include
presentations and workshops on men’s clothing, and special packages for
gentlemen and junior members are available.  Complete details including
descriptions of the presentations and workshops, hotel information, and
registration fees can be found at our web site www.genteelarts.com

Please feel free to contact me with any questions.

Carolann Schmitt
cschmitt@genteelarts.com

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Subject: [h-cost] respectable woman of Geneva
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 19:08:27 -0500
Status: RO

In my Patterns of Fashion (1560 - 1620) on page 6 there is a picture of a
"respectable woman of Geneva" from Habitus Praecipuorum Propulorum by Hans
Weigel & Jost Amman. Does anyone know of a better picture? I cannot find any
online, but was hoping someone else might have found one. I am especially
interested in her headwear, if anyone can make that out. Thanks!


**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
Bristol,
BRF FOF

So many books, so little time

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jul  3 14:32:34 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Bath Museum of Costume - revamped web site
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Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 22:55:19 -0700
Status: RO

The Museum of Costume in Bath has revamped their website -- better design,
and some nicer photos of some of their collection:

http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk/

I stumbled across "The Costume Drama Game" on their site, which is one of
those "dress the mannequin in the appropriate historical clothing" Java
games... It has some REALLY weird clothes for each period -- the 1790's
figure is supposed to wear a robe a la francaise and really weird hat, the
1830's figure ends up being "correctly" dressed in something that looks way
more 1890's to me, and I have NO IDEA what's going on with the 1800 figure's
dress (looks 1830's to me!).  Anway, check it out.  It's odd.

The direct URL for the game is:
http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk/htmlContent/game.htm

- Kendra


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jul  3 14:34:16 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan Costuming Page has moved
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Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 10:27:30 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

Guys,

long time no chat.  Just wanted to drop you a line--my Elizabethan
Costuming page has moved, from http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets to the
much more mnemonic location of http://costume.dm.net/  .

This new site is much, much larger. It veritably echos.

So I'm extending an offer: if anyone on the lst has a costume-related
paper, article, or currently homeless web article, drop me a line. I know
there are many of you out there with great papers & articles on a variety
of costume topics, but who don't have web  page access or the HTML savvy
to convert your articles from Word format into a web-viewable one.  And
there are others, I'm sure, who are sick and tired of hosting their
articles on geocities, tripod, or other pop-up-window type sites.

Enjoy the new site and I hope to be back on the list soon,

Drea

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jul  3 14:36:32 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] historic "sunglasses" for Renaissance faires
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Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 21:24:15 -0400
Status: RO

Hi. Let me second Nicole on this point here. I have never seen evidence of any sort
of nose pads the like of which we have on modern glasses. All of the illos and all
of the extant glasses seem to indicate the glasses sitting on the bridge of the
nose, and often slipping down to the bulbous point of the nose where the nostrils
flare out. If you are fortunate in this case, and you have a flatter, wider nose,
you might be able to find something for you to wear. In addition, all of the
glasses I have seen prior to the 18th Cent. are round. The ear cords will probably
help in adjusting the glasses on the bridge of the nose, but the angle of the
lenses and, consequently, the placement of the focal center of the lens in front of
the center of the eye will alter (this is another reason to disprove the thought
that myopia was being corrected at that early date). Good Luck with your
reproductions, though. Every experiment, successful or failed, brings us closer to
understanding the past.  Mike T.


>
>
> You might find though that they will slip terribly because they weren't made to
> sit on the bridge of the nose. They will probably be too wide there. It's worth
> a try though.

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jul  3 14:38:49 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] aurora bleacheries - help
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Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 19:08:58 -0500
Status: RO

Greetings,

Does anyone know the current location of the Aurora Bleacheries (I believe 
they went through a name change awhile back as well)?  Would they be open 
on Monday and how do I get there from I94?  : )

Cheers,
Danielle

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jul  3 14:40:37 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] historic "sunglasses" for Renaissance faires
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 10:52:37 -0700
Status: RO

At 11:33 AM -0400 6/30/02, Judy Mitchell wrote:
>Hi Parsla-
>>Certainly, it's said that Viking women displayed their wealth by 
>>all the amber they wore, et cetera, et cetera,
>	yeah, I've seen that sometimes in the generic books... but 
>you know, of all the museums that I've been to (and most in 
>Denmark), while there are some amber displayed the majority of the 
>beads are glass. Maybe that has to do with the amazingly high 
>quality of the Danish bead makers, but there was more glass than 
>amber in Norway too, and the same that I've seen in the Gotland 
>pictures that have been on the web. So I really wonder about those 
>statements about wearing all the amber. Besides if wearing the amber 
>was "displaying their wealth" then it stands to reason that amber 
>was not considered so cheap. It sure did well on the trade routes.

My experience has been similar to yours.  If you look at Viking-era 
beads in terms of grave-by-grave inventories, you get a _much_ 
different picture of what people were wearing than what many people 
have adopted as the "Viking look".  Often its 50-80% monochrome 
glass, with only a handful of special shapes, designs, and materials. 
And to the best of my recollection, _every_ amber bead I've seen in 
an archaeological context has been shaped to a highly symmetric and 
polished form (except for the few carved to shape).  The notion of 
wearing twenty strands of amber-only in roughly tumbled shapes (which 
is what I normally see on the "display your amber wealth" people 
around here) doesn't really match the historic evidence that I'm 
aware of.

It can be easy to get a mistaken impression from book and museum 
displays that single out the "nice" beads, or group bead displays by 
type rather than by site.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 14:41:36 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

Nah, it's just good corsetry ;D

-- M


On Sat, 29 Jun 2002, leigh tartaglio wrote:

> Wow, those ladies have some big ol' jugs!!! (Ducking feebly at the barrage sure to
> come...)  Mike T.

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From: rob and laurie gage <rlgage@adelphia.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] my phoenix textile order...
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Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 15:18:34 -0400
Status: RO

hi all!
i just received my first phoenix textiles order, and i'm digging it! prompt,
pleasant and timely. yay!
the fabric:
forest green cotton velveteen-short nap, nice sheen
light-weight red linen-light and crisp, *very* red
purple "raw" silk-actually a matka. nice medium purple w/tight weave
royal gold dupione-mmmmm, pretty!
last, but not least...
burgundy sheer linen/metal blend (90/10%)-beautiful fabric!!! deep color,
semi-sheer, linen weft and metal warp. very crisp, but not hard. the warp
feels more like a fine nylon thread than metal. if you bend it it doesn't
stay bent (ie: not like metal edged ribbon). i have just over 3ydsX60".
question"
what the heck do i do w/it?
i thought greek (doric style chiton), cotehardie (i'm teetering on the brink
of ordering 3 more yards) or early 16th c. italien ren.
please keep in mind that it is a bit sheer (not like "oh mi gawd, she's
nekkid), it will need to be lined or layered.
suggestions, comments and questions welcomed!
laurie

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Subject: [h-cost] Cyber Cindy Again!!!
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Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 03:16:15 -0400
Status: RO

You all won't believe this!  I am in shock... I got this news last night
about my next ball gown!!! Cyber Cinderella goes to the Ball AGAIN!!!

Okay for those who don't know... I am also known as Cyber Cinderella!  Don't
believe me... go read my Cyber Cinderella story at
http://www.costumegallery.com/Cyber/Cindy.htm  Make sure to read the whole
story to see the mansion where the ball was held!  In 1998, I was invited to
a Ball at one of my client's home... a mansion!  I was so panicked about
what to wear... I met a designer on the web and she loaned me a $10,000 gown
to wear to the Ball.   I wrote about the whole event on the web... then I
became known Cyber Cindy.  (for those of you who know all of this... hang in
there... you won't believe this...)  I receive so much wonderful email from
moms about this story.

Then I was invited to my client's Ball again in 2000.  This ball was even
more spectacular!!!  I got to work with the designer David Emanuel
personally.
He was the designer for Princess Diana's wedding gown.  I purchased my gown
this time, an antique late 1950s bouffant debutante gown... I wore a huge
hoop with it. I felt like a Princess floating around the room.

Now we are about 6 weeks before my client's next Balls.... she is going to
have two balls this year.  One is the Twilight Ball on Aug. 17, the other is
the Red Cross Ball on Aug. 19.  So I need to have two Cyber Cindy gowns!!!
It has happened again!!! Just like the first ball.  Bill, our new
instructor, the NYC couture designer, is going to design me a big bouffant
1950-ish ball gown to wear to the Ball.  I will be his walking billboard.
See the people at the
Ball are his type of clientele.  People always stop me and ask about my
gowns, so Bill gets advertising.  Now, this is where it gets to be fun for
you.... he is going to teach a class at the Classroom on how to make my
Cyber Cinderella gown!  He will be documenting making my gown step-by-step!

Now for the Red Cross Ball... Cyber Cindy can't wear the same dress for two
nights!  A lot of the same people will be there at both Balls.  Since I am
known for what I will be wearing... Cyber Cindy will be going in a 1920s
gown.  I got this pattern from Kim Grant, our other new instructor's
website... http://www.silkpoppy.com/patternframe.htm and look at pattern
Mc5941.  That will be my Red Cross gown.  I can wear handkerchief hems
really well... so this should be fun!  Kim graded the pattern to my size.  I
will be making this gown... start praying... I haven't sewn in 5 years.  I
will be starting on it next week.  Because the Ball is for the Red Cross,
all the ladies are wear red gowns.

BTW, my clients who own the Titanic film costumes, will be coming as my
guests to the Red Cross Ball.  I can't wait to see what she is wearing.
They are both so excited!

I just can't tell you how much of a dream all of this seems.  Who would have
ever thought a mom of six kids would get to go to beautiful Balls!  It still
all seems like a dream.  Luckily, I have a video tape of the last Ball... so
I can pop it in the VCR and remember it all while sitting my t-shirt and
shorts!!!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Subject: [h-cost] Movie: "Druids"
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Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 23:07:51 -0700
Status: RO

Oh oh oh, I am at this very momemt hurting myself for some undesignated 
sins, apparently, by watching a film called "Druids" with Christopher 
Lambert and Klaus Maria Brandauer, et al.

To make it worth my while I will ask of the assembled h-costume multitude... 
is there any costume virtue--or any other virtue--in this film at all?  
Aside from the brief glorious appearance of Max vonSydow,anyway?

Oh the pain, the pain!


MaggiRos
~noting the remarkably few horned helmets





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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Movie title
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 10:57:04 -0700
Status: RO

>I can't remember which list it was that someone asked about a movie 
>that might be called something like "Thee, Hannah" so I'm just going 
>to start with this one :)

Google is a wonderful thing (but with a 2000 pub date for the book, 
it seems unlikely to have produced a movie already):

<http://www.quakerhillbooks.org/cgi-bin/qhb.cgi/product_details?product_id=190>

Thee Hannah!

                   by Marguerite de Angeli
                   ISBN none, 99 pages, $15.99
                   Availability: Usually Ships in 24 hours

                   A beautifully illustrated children's book by 
Newbery Medal winner Marguerite de
                   Angeli, also winner of two Caldecott Honor Awards, 
the Louis Carroll Shelf Award, and
                   the Regina Medal. Hannah Severns was approaching 
ninety when she and the author,
                   then herself a child, first became acquainted. As 
their friendship grew, the stories of her
                   childhood became the basis for this book, and for 
other stories by the author.

Publisher: Herald Press
Published Date: 2000
Binding: Trade Paper

-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 11:25:29 -0400
Status: RO

Marcus asked me to post the following as Yahoo is not working well. 
-Linda K-S

>Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 16:20:36 +0000
>From: marcus findlay-arthur <mangal.kalima@virgin.net>
>Subject: Thanks for the forwarding on dye help
>
>1.I can wait a while.
>2.Thanks for all the input - will be looking over the next week for 
>stuff anyway.
>
>Ta & loads of love,
>
>M.
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: druids
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Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2002 14:58:20 -0400
Status: RO



Actually, I enjoyed this film in a lackadaisical sort of way. The script was
awful, and why anyone hires Christopher Lambert for anything is beyond me.
The man has only one expression! I just wrote a review of it for our local
SCA publication, so it's still fresh in my mind. I don't think the costumes
are particularly accurate, but they are an attempt and they win in my book
because at least they are all THE SAME attempt. I only watched it once, so I
may be wrong, but I don't recall any bit players with clothes from different
eras. The Roman army is all dressed alike, although apparently a few
centuries off, but again at least it's all the same era. And I quite enjoyed
the sets and props, which seemed to me to be an attempt at the correct
period. The main problems with the movie were, again, the terrible script
and the terrible lead actor. Perhaps this is a cultural thing -- it is a
French movie, so maybe the French are not all that concerned with things
like good endings and maintaining continuity. There is a very funny (in the
sense of incongruous) topless scene that seems very French to me. BTW, the
movie was originally called "Vercingetorix," and for those who haven't seen
it, that's just what it was -- the story of Vercingetorix, the famous chief
of the Gauls defeated by Julius Caesar. Apparently they thought anyone
outside of France would be more likely to go see a movie called "Druids,"
although the Druids are barely in it. It seems to have been intended to be
the French "Braveheart," but without the "triumph of the spirit" part. Poor
old Vercingetorix takes a pretty dim view of things right from the start! If
anyone wants a copy of the review, I'll be happy to send it along.

Gail Finke

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jul  3 16:09:46 2002
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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Planche, was: Wench Costume
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Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2002 12:51:17 -0700
Status: RO

Back in the misty reaches of time when I was editing Tournaments Illuminated 
for the SCA, I ran an article (which eventually into the Known World 
Handbook, 2nd ed) called "The Problem of Ruritanian Purple Feathers" which 
was both hysterical and very very useful. It takes up the whole issue of 
costume lore getting handed down, errors and all, both orally and in costume 
books.  It especially focusses on how redrawings of original artworks shift 
and change the evidence, until redrawings of redrawings take on the 
appearance of authority, which can be hell to un-do.

I believe the authors used to be on this list, but don't know if either of 
them still is.  Anyway, if you can find a copy, it should be one of the 
things every costume maven makes their 'prentices anbd acolytes memorize!


MaggiRos


>From: kat@grendal.rain.com
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Planche, was:  Wench Costume
>Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 12:15:27 -0700
>
>
> > Planche is not a particularly good source for medieval costume, as he
> > tended to make up information to fill in gaps in the evidence.
> > (Unfortunately many of his assumptions and inventions persist even
> > today in costume books.) But he is a very good source for the
> > Victorian interpretation of medieval costume, since his work defined
> > much of the movement.
>
>Amen to that. Same with Braun and Schneider, Racinet and that
>ilk.
>
>Another one who had a tendency to "fill in the gaps" is Diderot.
>While he has some good stuff for the 18th Century (when he wrote
>*his* encyclopedia), the earlier periods are pretty scary. Yet, like
>Planche, his inventions and assumptions are quoted endlessly in
>costume books.
>
>Norris quotes both of them extensively. One of the things that the
>lady who I was apprenticed to did for me is to have me read
>(beginning to end, not just my favorite time period) a long list of
>"standard" costume books. (Kelly & Schwabe, Norris, Davenport,
>Boucher, Kohler,  von Boehn, etc. It was a list of over 20 authors,
>some of which have several books, like Norris and von Boehn.) It
>really gave me an interesting perspective on costuming books. It
>also made me learn to question almost everything I find written as
>being "the way" to make something. You start seeing (especially if
>you know the date the book was written) how the costumers of the
>time saw things and how much gets crystallized by being
>endlessly quoted (even when very much wrong.)
>
>
>Kat
>

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Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2002 13:18:41 -0700
Status: RO

At 12:51 PM 07/03/2002 -0700, Maggie Secara wrote:
>Back in the misty reaches of time when I was editing Tournaments Illuminated 
>for the SCA, I ran an article (which eventually into the Known World 
>Handbook, 2nd ed) called "The Problem of Ruritanian Purple Feathers" which 
>was both hysterical and very very useful.

I believe it was reprinted in the Knowne World Handbook.  The second
edition, I think...whichever one it was that was released around AS XX.
Sorry I can't be more specific, but my ex-husband kept our copy.

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jul  3 16:35:11 2002
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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: druids
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Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2002 13:15:44 -0700
Status: RO

Well with all that in mind, maybe I'll wait for a Saturday afternoon and put 
it on when my husband is at home.  Some movies are just made for Saturday 
matinees.

The topless scene WAS funny.  It had a certain campfollower appeal :)

Thanks for the input, Gail!

MaggiRos
Q: How do you capture a campfollower?
A: Hide in the bushes and make a noise like a gold chain.




>From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Re: druids
>Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2002 14:58:20 -0400
>
>
>
>Actually, I enjoyed this film in a lackadaisical sort of way. The script 
>was
>awful, and why anyone hires Christopher Lambert for anything is beyond me.
>The man has only one expression! I just wrote a review of it for our local
>SCA publication, so it's still fresh in my mind. I don't think the costumes
>are particularly accurate, but they are an attempt and they win in my book
>because at least they are all THE SAME attempt. I only watched it once, so 
>I
>may be wrong, but I don't recall any bit players with clothes from 
>different
>eras. The Roman army is all dressed alike, although apparently a few
>centuries off, but again at least it's all the same era.


<snipped for the sake of digesters>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jul  3 16:47:53 2002
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Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2002 13:29:42 -0700
Status: RO

I've still got mine. :-)  I think it's still available from the SCA, 
although I can't find it anywhere on the www.sca.org website.  However, a 
3rd edition is, I believe, in the works and I have no idea if the article 
will be included.

MaggiRos




>From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com, h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Planche, was: Wench Costume
>Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2002 13:18:41 -0700
>
>At 12:51 PM 07/03/2002 -0700, Maggie Secara wrote:
> >Back in the misty reaches of time when I was editing Tournaments 
>Illuminated
> >for the SCA, I ran an article (which eventually into the Known World
> >Handbook, 2nd ed) called "The Problem of Ruritanian Purple Feathers" 
>which
> >was both hysterical and very very useful.
>
>I believe it was reprinted in the Knowne World Handbook.  The second
>edition, I think...whichever one it was that was released around AS XX.
>Sorry I can't be more specific, but my ex-husband kept our copy.
>
>Margo
>"One Tough Costumer"
>
>




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Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 21:56:24 +0100
Status: RO

On 1 Jul 2002 at 13:17, Maggie Secara wrote:

> 
> This isn't about costume directly but it is about historical food.  And 
> what's a historical feast without historic costume, I ask you!  (A naked 
> lunch (but that's another story.))  This exciting article in the Manchester 
> Guardian from Thursday, passed along on another list:
> 
> http://www.guardian.co.uk/uklatest/story/0,1271,-1838714,00.html
> 
> Gee, I wonder if we know any English librarians who could get close to 
> this... ;-)

Thanks: will pass on to some cooking friends and 
lists.

I note in passing that while this may well be the 
earliest *printed* English cookery book, it's isn't the 
earliest English cookery book by any means. Not 
even close.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Planche, was: Wench Costume
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Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 16:58:29 -0400
Status: RO

Greetings--

> I've still got mine. :-)  I think it's still available from the SCA,
> although I can't find it anywhere on the www.sca.org website.  However, a
> 3rd edition is, I believe, in the works and I have no idea if the article
> will be included.

If it's not, I think a lot of people will be upset. That's one of those
"classic" articles.
The 2nd edition is still available--go to
http://www.sca.org/members/marketplace.html and look at the pdf order form.
It's several pages in, past the Compleat Anachronist listings.

Susan

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Costuming Page has moved
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Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 16:57:18 -0400
Status: RO

Drea

Your website is my bible. I think I had it bookmarked the day after it
moved!

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Drea Leed" <drea@nospam>
To: <h-costume@indra.net>
Sent: Friday, June 21, 2002 10:27 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan Costuming Page has moved


> Guys,
>
> long time no chat.  Just wanted to drop you a line--my Elizabethan
> Costuming page has moved, from http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets to the
> much more mnemonic location of http://costume.dm.net/  .
>
> This new site is much, much larger. It veritably echos.
>
> So I'm extending an offer: if anyone on the lst has a costume-related
> paper, article, or currently homeless web article, drop me a line. I know
> there are many of you out there with great papers & articles on a variety
> of costume topics, but who don't have web  page access or the HTML savvy
> to convert your articles from Word format into a web-viewable one.  And
> there are others, I'm sure, who are sick and tired of hosting their
> articles on geocities, tripod, or other pop-up-window type sites.
>
> Enjoy the new site and I hope to be back on the list soon,
>
> Drea
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: [h-cost] Amber (was Re: historic "sunglasses" for Renaissance faires)
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Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2002 16:58:19 -0400
Status: RO


(much snippage about how chunky, unpolished amber seems to be incorrect for 
"Viking period"...)

>>their wealth" then it stands to reason that amber was not considered so 
>>cheap. It sure did well on the trade routes.

I wonder if this is because amber is/was so common?  You know--I grew a lot 
of tomatoes, so I'm sick of tomatoes, and you grew a lot of zucchini, so 
you're sick of zucchini--so we trade and we're both happy.

Am I just making things up when I say that amber was more common "then" than 
it is now?  This is a weird reason, I know, but the sea floor around Birka 
was rising in Viking period. Birka was actually abandoned partly because of 
that (and the waterways on either side filled up with silt and it was harder 
to get to).  The sea floor had previously been forest, which is why there is 
amber there to wash up on shore in the first place.....  I'm guessing that 
as the sea floor rose, the amber was more likely to be found or washed free. 
  But then again, this could just be crap....

Parsla
--
Vocatus atque non vocatus, Deus aderit.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Conference on Mid-Nineteenth Century Clothing
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Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 17:02:10 -0400
Status: RO

Since I live about twenty minutes from Harrisburg, I am SO there!

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "cschmitt@genteelarts" <cschmitt@genteelarts.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, July 01, 2002 8:19 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Conference on Mid-Nineteenth Century Clothing


> Those of you interested in mid-nineteenth century clothing and culture
might
> be interested in this information.  The information is being posted to
> several lists; my apologies if you receive multiple copies.
>
> The Ninth Annual Ladies of the 1860s Conference will be held on March 7-9,
> 2003 in Harrisburg, PA.  The conference offers presentations on a variety
of
> topics relating to the clothing and culture of the mid-nineteenth century.
> The program also includes pre-conference seminars (both hands-on and
> lecture/demonstration), a juried vendor area, continually changing
displays
> of original garments, undergarments, accessories, jewelry and other items
of
> material culture, a competition for the best reproduction of a period
> bonnet, and a juried vendor area.  The 2003 conference will also include
> presentations and workshops on men's clothing, and special packages for
> gentlemen and junior members are available.  Complete details including
> descriptions of the presentations and workshops, hotel information, and
> registration fees can be found at our web site www.genteelarts.com
>
> Please feel free to contact me with any questions.
>
> Carolann Schmitt
> cschmitt@genteelarts.com
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] H-Cost:  Wench Costume
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Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 18:18:04 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Mon, 1 Jul 2002, chiara wrote:

> Not to mention that all his books cost over 500.00 if you can even
> find a copy! There used to be a bookseller offering to see it to me
> for over a year swearing that it had great glove documentation in it.
> Too much money for me to spend and cannot justify. Robin, can you look
> at the book again and tell if it has anything about gloves? It was
> perpetually out here in the Collin County library system and now it is
> totally off the lists. :(

Alas, I do not own the book and don't have a copy at ready access. I
Xeroxed off the sections I needed for the papers I was writing, and I
periodically go hunt up a copy when I'm looking at something new. I have
no clue about glove content. I'm sure he covers it somewhere, but I
frankly wouldn't consider it a good source. He cribbed so much from Strutt
you might be better off looking at Strutt first anyway.

--Robin

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Do you know if they are still looking for presentations, or is the program 
set?
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">Do you know if they are still looking for presentations, or is the program set?<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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From: "Frojel Gotlandica" <frojel@dcsi.net.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Amber (was Re: historic "sunglasses" for Renaissance faires)
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Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2002 11:17:49 +1000
Status: RO

No the entire Baltic region is actually rising, Gotland has risen several meters since the Viking age, most 
amber is found on the Baltic coast after storms, the big storms move it around on the sea floor and being 
light it gets washed ashore, it is more common for divers to find it now than beachcombers but it is still being 
washed up on the beaches. Birka was situated on an island in the middle of a lake complex but no doubt 
there was amber there in the lake too but the majority of it comes from the Baltic sea.
Sandy


>Am I just making things up when I say that amber was more common "then" than 
>it is now?  This is a weird reason, I know, but the sea floor around Birka 
>was rising in Viking period. Birka was actually abandoned partly because of 
>that (and the waterways on either side filled up with silt and it was harder 
>to get to).  The sea floor had previously been forest, which is why there is 
>amber there to wash up on shore in the first place.....  I'm guessing that 
>as the sea floor rose, the amber was more likely to be found or washed free. 
>  But then again, this could just be crap....
>
>Parsla


Fr”jel Gotlandica Viking Re-enactment Society.
http://www.frojel.com/
frojel@frojel.com



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Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 19:01:46 -0700
Status: RO


> Back in the misty reaches of time when I was editing Tournaments
> Illuminated for the SCA, I ran an article (which eventually into the
> Known World Handbook, 2nd ed) called "The Problem of Ruritanian Purple
> Feathers" which was both hysterical and very very useful. It takes up
> the whole issue of costume lore getting handed down, errors and all,
> both orally and in costume books.  It especially focusses on how
> redrawings of original artworks shift and change the evidence, until
> redrawings of redrawings take on the appearance of authority, which
> can be hell to un-do.
> 
> I believe the authors used to be on this list, but don't know if
> either of them still is.  Anyway, if you can find a copy, it should be
> one of the things every costume maven makes their 'prentices anbd
> acolytes memorize!
> MaggiRos

I love that article! It is such a hoot. It was written by Linda Reames 
Fox (ska Lady Audelindis de Rheims) and is on page 120 of the 
second edition of the handbook. I heartily recommend it to anyone 
who thinks that extrapolation and interpolation can be done from 
such sources. (I think I'll leave it out as I have a student coming 
over this weekend who *really* needs to read it!)


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 23:06:08 -0400
Status: RO

Well, my copy from AS XXVI says it's the third edition (one done AS XIV, and
one done for ASXX). (as a matter of fact, just noticed the editor of this
edition is a really cool member of our Barony.);-)  Anyway, in this edition,
it's on pp.129-131.  It is a great article, like she says- both funny and
making great points.  (of course, it took not looking at the book for almost
5 years and then taking it out to figure out some of the differences between
the two pictures, but I guess that was part of the reason for the
article.);-}
Moira

>Back in the misty reaches of time when I was editing Tournaments
Illuminated
> >for the SCA, I ran an article (which eventually into the Known World
> >Handbook, 2nd ed) called "The Problem of Ruritanian Purple Feathers"
which
> >was both hysterical and very very useful.
>
> I believe it was reprinted in the Knowne World Handbook.  The second
> edition, I think...whichever one it was that was released around AS XX.
> Sorry I can't be more specific, but my ex-husband kept our copy.
>
> Margo
> "One Tough Costumer"



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Jul  4 00:09:24 2002
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Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2002 23:45:35 -0400
Status: RO

Oh, so you are the author of that gem! Thanks so much for writing that, so long
ago. It has proved useful in many a "discussion"  Mike T.

> "The Problem of Ruritanian Purple Feathers"

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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Olde Englysh receipts
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Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 21:13:29 -0700
Status: RO

Sorry All,

	This is old news.  SCA-Cooks has been discussing it for several days now
:-)

Wanda Pease
"I believe for every drop of rain that falls, a flower grows. And a
foundation leaks and a ball game gets rained out and a car rusts and..."


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Jane Williams
Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2002 1:56 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Olde Englysh receipts


On 1 Jul 2002 at 13:17, Maggie Secara wrote:

>
> This isn't about costume directly but it is about historical food.  And
> what's a historical feast without historic costume, I ask you!  (A naked
> lunch (but that's another story.))  This exciting article in the
Manchester
> Guardian from Thursday, passed along on another list:
>
> http://www.guardian.co.uk/uklatest/story/0,1271,-1838714,00.html
>
> Gee, I wonder if we know any English librarians who could get close to
> this... ;-)

Thanks: will pass on to some cooking friends and
lists.

I note in passing that while this may well be the
earliest *printed* English cookery book, it's isn't the
earliest English cookery book by any means. Not
even close.



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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@hotmail.com>
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Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2002 23:57:53 -0700
Status: RO


Oh!  Shows how attentive I've been! I'm glad it made it into the new 
edition. It's a gem.

MaggiRos

>From: "HEATHER A CUTLER" <moirabeaneoin@prodigy.net>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Planche, was: Wench Costume
>Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 23:06:08 -0400
>
>Well, my copy from AS XXVI says it's the third edition (one done AS XIV, 
>and
>one done for ASXX). (as a matter of fact, just noticed the editor of this
>edition is a really cool member of our Barony.);-)  Anyway, in this 
>edition,
>it's on pp.129-131.  It is a great article, like she says- both funny and
>making great points.  (of course, it took not looking at the book for 
>almost
>5 years and then taking it out to figure out some of the differences 
>between
>the two pictures, but I guess that was part of the reason for the
>article.);-}
>Moira
>
> >Back in the misty reaches of time when I was editing Tournaments
>Illuminated
> > >for the SCA, I ran an article (which eventually into the Known World
> > >Handbook, 2nd ed) called "The Problem of Ruritanian Purple Feathers"
>which
> > >was both hysterical and very very useful.
> >
> > I believe it was reprinted in the Knowne World Handbook.  The second
> > edition, I think...whichever one it was that was released around AS XX.
> > Sorry I can't be more specific, but my ex-husband kept our copy.
> >
> > Margo
> > "One Tough Costumer"
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume




Cheers,

Maggie Secara
~The Elizabethan World is at http://ren.dm.net



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Jul  4 03:18:26 2002
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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Olde Englysh receipts
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Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2002 23:59:56 -0700
Status: RO

So as costumers, we're a little behind on food news. Big deal. Better old 
news than none at all. Not like it's a race :)

MaggiRos


>From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: RE: [h-cost] Olde Englysh receipts
>Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 21:13:29 -0700
>
>Sorry All,
>
>	This is old news.  SCA-Cooks has been discussing it for several days now
>:-)
>
>Wanda Pease
>"I believe for every drop of rain that falls, a flower grows. And a
>foundation leaks and a ball game gets rained out and a car rusts and..."
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
>Behalf Of Jane Williams
>Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2002 1:56 PM
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Olde Englysh receipts
>
>
>On 1 Jul 2002 at 13:17, Maggie Secara wrote:
>
> >
> > This isn't about costume directly but it is about historical food.  And
> > what's a historical feast without historic costume, I ask you!  (A naked
> > lunch (but that's another story.))  This exciting article in the
>Manchester
> > Guardian from Thursday, passed along on another list:
> >
> > http://www.guardian.co.uk/uklatest/story/0,1271,-1838714,00.html
> >
> > Gee, I wonder if we know any English librarians who could get close to
> > this... ;-)
>
>Thanks: will pass on to some cooking friends and
>lists.
>
>I note in passing that while this may well be the
>earliest *printed* English cookery book, it's isn't the
>earliest English cookery book by any means. Not
>even close.
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume




Cheers,

Maggie Secara
~The Elizabethan World is at http://ren.dm.net




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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Jul  4 04:14:27 2002
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Olde Englysh receipts
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Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2002 08:56:11 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

I believe a print run of the book is being made for visitors to Longleat House.  I believe I heard
this on Radio 4 but I could be mistaken.

The webpage of Longleat House is at:
http://www.longleat.co.uk/mainpage.htm

They could probably give you more information on a possible print run.

Rachel

 --- Maggie Secara <maggiros@hotmail.com> wrote: > 
> This isn't about costume directly but it is about historical food.  And 
> what's a historical feast without historic costume, I ask you!  (A naked 
> lunch (but that's another story.))  This exciting article in the Manchester 
> Guardian from Thursday, passed along on another list:
> 
> http://www.guardian.co.uk/uklatest/story/0,1271,-1838714,00.html
> 
> Gee, I wonder if we know any English librarians who could get close to 
> this... ;-)
> 
> 
> MaggiRos
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

=====
Rachel

Tudor Bibliography
http://website.lineone.net/~reholliday/Tudor/

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Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2002 01:20:21 -0700
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>But he is a very good source for the
> > Victorian interpretation of medieval costume, since his work defined
> > much of the movement.
>
>Amen to that. Same with Braun and Schneider,

Most of why I own Braun and Schneider is because of the by-now-historical 
ethnic and folk stuff in it.  I believe their 19th century European stuff too.


Kayta

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Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2002 10:39:07 +0100
Status: RO

(A third attempt, since my test seems to have worked!)
Nicole wrote:
> the loops that you see are actually thread loops, attached to leg-less
>glasses. they were like what in germany is called a 'zwicker', glasses that
>were pinched onto the bridge of the nose without any earpieces, but some
>attached thread loops which were looped around the ears. 

English speakers actually use the French term "pince-nez" (nose-pincher) for "Zwicker" - my German dictionary confirms this.

I notice that the "legless" spectacles advertised by Jas. Townsend claim to be 15th/16th century; they offer nothing for the 17th! Some of my 17th century reenactor friends wear that type, some make do with discreet round metal frames which, as Nicole says, don't look too jarringly modern.

Does anyone know of any evidence for Renaissance spectacles worn with a single safety cord rather than ear loops, like the Victorian pince-nez? I have an old pair of frames which would just about do as 17th century reading glasses, but they have only one ring for attaching a cord.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2002 10:05:48 +0100
Status: RO

Earlier this week I twice sent a message which hasn't reached the list.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2002 06:21:56 -0600
Status: RO


If they haven't come through yet, they never got here.

						...eliz
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Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2002 11:30:26 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO



I just saw Angels & Insects last night, based on the novella by A.S. Byatt.
The costuming -- 1862-1865 or so -- was just gorgeous to my eye.  What 
particularly impressed me wasn't so much the historical quality of it, 
but that all the ladies were wearing coloration that reminded me of warning
signs in the animal kingdom -- the bright stripes and "stay away" color 
combinations that many insects and reptiles wear.  

I rented it -- I think I'll have to buy it though!

.heather.meadows.
heather@sewhipithurts.com



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Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2002 12:03:44 -0700
Status: RO

Apologies for cross-posting, but I thought people on several other 
lists might be interested in yet another Yahoo! group (as if we all 
need _more_ mailing lists to subscribe to!).

[Paternosters] is an e-mail list for people interested in historical 
rosaries, paternosters, and other prayer beads. If you re-create, 
research, collect, or just admire and are interested in the variety 
of rosaries (etc.) that have been used in history, you are very 
welcome to join us!

There is also a FAQ file in the Paternosters files area (which anyone 
can read) giving a brief synopsis of the history of the rosary and 
its predecessor, the paternoster. It's at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Paternosters/files/Rosaries-FAQ

To learn more about the Paternosters group, please visit
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Paternosters

Pax et bonum!

O-oooooooooo-O-oooooooooo-O-oooooooooo-O-oooooooooo-O-oooooooooo-O

To subscribe or unsubscribe: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/paternosters
To change your e-mail address or preferences: http://groups.yahoo.com/mygroups

O-oooooooooo-O-oooooooooo-O-oooooooooo-O-oooooooooo-O-oooooooooo-O
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    (Lady) Christian de Holacombe
|     Chris Laning  <claning@igc.org>
+    Shire of Windy Meads  -  Davis, California
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Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2002 20:44:33 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

Folks,

Thank you very much for all the help on the dye
problem I'm currently enjoying.Am doing it in stages
and seem to be falling behind a bit,still I'll get
there.

Katya - I did locate Dylon at Beatties here in
Birmingham.If you want to get some or stock up with
them give me a holler.

Marcus

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Subject: [h-cost] linen weight?
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Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2002 13:24:43 -0700
Status: RO

Hello all,

I'm beginning work on a reproduction of a Danish dress from 1796 in the
Danish book _Moden 1790-1840_.  It's one of those very gathered, sheer,
white dresses that you see in Heidloff plates (eg
http://www.costumes.org/history/regency/boehn/heidloff1796B.JPG)

I'm making the dress in a sheer cotton voile (the original was made of
"nettlecloth" -- any ideas what that is?), and the bodice and sleeves are
lined in linen.  It's one of those interesting constructions where the linen
lining creates the structure for the bodice.  I'll be wearing this over a
bodice petticoat (like those in Hunnisett's _Period Costume_), and my
question is this -- what weight should I use for the linen lining?

I'd like to order something from fabrics-store.com, and it looks like they
offer the following weights:  3.5 oz., 4.6, 5.3, 5.9, 7.1, and 7.46 oz.  Now
I'm totally unfamiliar with linen weights (if I could hold the fabric in my
hand, I'd be fine, but those numbers just don't mean anything to me!).  Is
there anyone who can recommend which weight I should use?  I want enough
weight to hold the structure of the dress, but it won't need to serve as a
corset.

I'd appreciate any recommendations!

- Kendra


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Subject: [h-cost] Danish translation?
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Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2002 13:27:36 -0700
Status: RO

Is there anyone on the list who reads Danish and would be willing to
translate some brief pattern notations for me?  I have a scaled pattern from
a Danish book, and while I can figure out what all of the pattern pieces
are, I'd like to be able to understand the construction notes.

This pattern is along the lines of something from Janet Arnold, so it's not
too much text.

If anyone can help me out, please let me know!

Thanks,

Kendra


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bath Museum of Costume - revamped web site
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Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2002 14:00:45 -0700
Status: RO

Has any one else tried the new URL and found that their screen freezes,
forcing you to reboot entirely?

Oddly enough, I _can_ access the second URL for the game without any
problems!! 
Also, I tried backtracking this URL and my screen still froze.  (OCC: 
yes, Kendra, you're right about the weird choices for the garb of the decade).

Anyone else have similar results?

Thanks for letting me vent my frustration, 

Theresa Eacker

Kendra Van Cleave wrote:
> 
> The Museum of Costume in Bath has revamped their website -- better design,
> and some nicer photos of some of their collection:
> 
> http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk/
(Pruning)
> 
> The direct URL for the game is:
> http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk/htmlContent/game.htm
> 
> - Kendra
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2002 15:25:20 -0700
Status: RO

Sure -- send them along!

At 1:27 PM -0700 7/4/02, Kendra Van Cleave wrote:
>Is there anyone on the list who reads Danish and would be willing to
>translate some brief pattern notations for me?  I have a scaled pattern from
>a Danish book, and while I can figure out what all of the pattern pieces
>are, I'd like to be able to understand the construction notes.
>
>This pattern is along the lines of something from Janet Arnold, so it's not
>too much text.
>
>If anyone can help me out, please let me know!

-- 
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+    Davis, California
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Date: Fri, 05 Jul 2002 12:33:33 +0100
Status: RO

Kendra wrote:

>>>I'm making the dress in a sheer cotton voile (the original was made of
"nettlecloth" -- any ideas what that is?), 

That would be a linen-type material made with the fibres from nettle stems instead of flax. I saw some prepared ones once and they were very coarse, but I believe experts can spin quite fine thread from them.


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2002 18:10:03 -0500
Status: RO

Ah, could somone point to an online copy of the article.  Not sure I want to
spend $16 for one article.  Thanks.

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Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2002 20:34:01 -0400
Status: RO

Hi Kendra-
	I don't know how much of a help this is, but when I went to 
Denmark last summer and visited with a woman in Farum, I 
brought some samples from fabrics-store with me in case 
anything I needed would be the same weight. I'm making an 
everyday dress from the 1840-60s. Silke-Annet told me that 
the white 5.5 oz (ILO19) was good for the sark, and the 
natural 7.1 (4C22?) to line the bodice with. Your dress may 
be fancier and lighter weight than mine - I'm working with 
alpaca drille. The other thing you might want to know about, 
is that there is a page at fabrics-store.com where you can 
ask for free samples. You can't really specify the color, 
but you can ask for all the different weights of linen. Then 
you can feel what they are like. I've done this with them. 
Hope that's a help.


> Is there anyone on the list who reads Danish and would be willing to
> translate some brief pattern notations for me? 
	The other thing you might find helpful, is that if you 
contact the Butterick-UK office (can't find the email off 
hand, but it should be findable), they will mail you a copy 
of the english-Danish pattern insert which has a glossary of 
sewing and pattern terms! This will probably make the poor 
man very confused as you would be the 3rd person asking him 
for this - he was very surprised when the 2nd person asked! 
(It's a conspiracy ;-) ). But he kindly sent them for free, 
and even sent me the Swedish and Finnish ones also (wish I 
had a Norwegian one, dunno if there is one). Anyway, this 
might also be a help with the book. Worth a try!

	-Judy Mitchell

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_______________________________________________________________
Sign up for FREE iVillage newsletters <http://s.ivillage.com/rd/16705> .
>From health and pregnancy to shopping and relationships, iVillage
has the scoop on what matters most to you. <-----Original Message----->
> I'm making the dress in a sheer cotton voile (the original was made of
> "nettlecloth" -- any ideas what that is?)

I'm sure someone has already answered this, but nettlecloth will be just
that, cloth made from nettles. It makes
a very similar fibre to linen, and is processed very like flax, using
the long fibres that grow iside the long nettle
stem. Ramie is nettle fibre, but this may be processed differently. They
also use yarn made from nettles in the 
Himalaya region.

Freyalyn, PFUI

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<BR><font face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2" style="font-size:13.5px">_______________________________________________________________<BR>Sign up for <A HREF="http://s.ivillage.com/rd/16705">FREE iVillage newsletters</A>.<BR>From health and pregnancy to shopping and relationships, iVillage<BR>has the scoop on what matters most to you.

</font><-----Original Message-----><br>
> I'm making the dress in a sheer cotton voile (the original was made of<br>
> "nettlecloth" -- any ideas what that is?)<br>
<br>
I'm sure someone has already answered this, but nettlecloth will be just that, cloth made from nettles.  It makes<br>
a very similar fibre to linen, and is processed very like flax, using the long fibres that grow iside the long nettle<br>
stem.  Ramie is nettle fibre, but this may be processed differently.  They also use yarn made from nettles in the <br>
Himalaya region.<br>
<br>
Freyalyn, PFUI
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Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 09:54:34 BST
Status: RO

Kendra Van Cleave <kendrav@attbi.com> wrote :

> I'm making the dress in a sheer cotton voile (the original was made of
> "nettlecloth" -- any ideas what that is?),

Only an guess, but I seem to remember being told that you can get a linen-like thread from nettles. Presumbaly yu cna then weave it into cloth.





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Date: Fri, 05 Jul 2002 08:43:23 -0600
Status: RO

I've ordered a couple of different times from these guys (okay, I give,
I've ordered *lots,* judging by the stack in one bedroom, and the 20-yd.
roll in the other), and the lightest weight (3.5 oz), is a decent
chemise-weight, but more like a heavier chemise than a really light one,
if you know what I mean.  So, since the outer layer of your garment is
very light weight, that's the one I'd use.
I've also acquired some of their 7.1 oz (the 20 yd. roll of unbleached,
and a few other pieces, mostly for use in linings for gothic fitted
gowns, and for some anglo-saxon clothing), and I did notice a bit of
*apparent* differences to the heft/feel to these--some feel lighter
weight, some heavier (dunno if it's finishing, or color, or if it's
actually different <g>), but all are far more substantial than my 3 oz.
shift stuff.  More like really sturdy overtunic weight, pretty closely
approximating the average feel of the denim in my fall/winter blue
jeans.
I dunno for sure (because I've never tried), but you might be able to
contact the company directly, and ask for samples.....
--Sue, fellow linen lover ;-)

Kendra Van Cleave wrote:
> 
I'll be wearing this over a
> bodice petticoat (like those in Hunnisett's _Period Costume_), and my
> question is this -- what weight should I use for the linen lining?
> 
> I'd like to order something from fabrics-store.com, and it looks like they
> offer the following weights:  3.5 oz., 4.6, 5.3, 5.9, 7.1, and 7.46 oz.  Now
> I'm totally unfamiliar with linen weights (if I could hold the fabric in my
> hand, I'd be fine, but those numbers just don't mean anything to me!).
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Planche, was: Wench Costume
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Date: Fri, 05 Jul 2002 22:02:19 -0400
Status: RO

Since some of us have never seen the article in question, what's it about?

-- Mara

At 11:45 PM 7/3/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>Oh, so you are the author of that gem! Thanks so much for writing that, so
long
>ago. It has proved useful in many a "discussion"  Mike T.
>
>> "The Problem of Ruritanian Purple Feathers"

Kevin + Mara Riley

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] linen weight?
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Date: Fri, 05 Jul 2002 22:15:06 -0400
Status: RO

At 01:24 PM 7/4/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>I'd like to order something from fabrics-store.com, and it looks like they
>offer the following weights:  3.5 oz., 4.6, 5.3, 5.9, 7.1, and 7.46 oz.  Now
>I'm totally unfamiliar with linen weights (if I could hold the fabric in my
>hand, I'd be fine, but those numbers just don't mean anything to me!).  Is
>there anyone who can recommend which weight I should use?  I want enough
>weight to hold the structure of the dress, but it won't need to serve as a
>corset.
>
>I'd appreciate any recommendations!
>
>- Kendra

Hi, Kendra,
The 3.5 oz. is a bit lightweight and sheer to be used for lining; I'm using
it for shifts and neckerchiefs right now.  I'd go with the 4.6 oz. or 5.3
oz., but not anything heavier. 

Cheers,
Mara
Kevin + Mara Riley

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Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2002 10:32:39 -0700
Status: RO

Regarding: "The Problem of Ruritanian Purple Feathers"
> Since some of us have never seen the article in question, what's it
> about?
> -- Mara

It's about the pitfalls of source interpretation and why we can't 
always interpolate or extrapolate from various sources. It's a basic 
on documentation problems.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Subject: [h-cost] Ruritanian Purople Feathers [was Planche]
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Date: Sat, 06 Jul 2002 10:29:34 -0700
Status: RO

Well y'know, I Googled on "ruritanian purple" and the very first hit was
http://www.dreamworker-magazine.com/frontpage/purplefeathers.html

Will that do? :-)

MaggiRos

>To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Planche, was: Wench Costume
>Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2002 18:10:03 -0500
>
>Ah, could somone point to an online copy of the article.  Not sure I want 
>to
>spend $16 for one article.  Thanks.
>
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Date: Sat, 06 Jul 2002 10:29:34 -0700
Status: RO

Well y'know, I Googled on "ruritanian purple" and the very first hit was
http://www.dreamworker-magazine.com/frontpage/purplefeathers.html

Will that do? :-)

MaggiRos

>To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Planche, was: Wench Costume
>Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2002 18:10:03 -0500
>
>Ah, could somone point to an online copy of the article.  Not sure I want 
>to
>spend $16 for one article.  Thanks.
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume




Cheers,

Maggie Secara
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Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2002 15:56:38 -0700
Status: RO


> Well y'know, I Googled on "ruritanian purple" and the very first hit
> was http://www.dreamworker-magazine.com/frontpage/purplefeathers.html
> 
> Will that do? :-)
> 
> MaggiRos

This has the text, but does not have the drawings which go with it. 
The drawings are very helpful in understanding what is being 
discussed in the article.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Date: Sat, 06 Jul 2002 19:14:57 -0400
Status: RO

Hi, All. Textile remnants such as cording did not survive on the ones I have seen. I have, somewhere, a report from an excavation of a Tudor Free Grammar School, in Oxford, I think. The spectacle frames had the attachment points in such a way that it might be possible to fit a cord or cords on
near to where modern glasses have their sidepieces (the attachment points in this case being the points at which wire was wound to hold in the lenses). Since the spectacles of that age were used sitting down to read, I suspect that either two earpieces or nothing at all would have sufficed. Of
course, if you have a nice period-style pair made up, I would guess safety would be quite a concern. I have also seen pictures of physicians wearing them to do "medical" work, but this was also kind of up-close stuff also, and no earpieces, alone or in pairs, were in evidence. Mike T.

>
>
> Does anyone know of any evidence for Renaissance spectacles worn with a single safety cord rather than ear loops, like the Victorian pince-nez? I have an old pair of frames which would just about do as 17th century reading glasses, but they have only one ring for attaching a cord.
>

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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ruritanian Purople Feathers [was Planche]
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Date: Sat, 06 Jul 2002 21:18:30 -0700
Status: RO

Yes, I know. I was pretty disappointed. Although the drawings aren't 
specifically addressed in that version of the article.  The web version does 
include an e-mail addy for Linda Reames Fox, so I suppose you (or whoever) 
could drop her a note.

MaggiRos


>From: kat@grendal.rain.com
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ruritanian Purople Feathers [was Planche]
>Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2002 15:56:38 -0700
>
>
> > Well y'know, I Googled on "ruritanian purple" and the very first hit
> > was http://www.dreamworker-magazine.com/frontpage/purplefeathers.html
> >
> > Will that do? :-)
> >
> > MaggiRos
>
>This has the text, but does not have the drawings which go with it.
>The drawings are very helpful in understanding what is being
>discussed in the article.
>
>
>Kat
>
>Kat(June Russell)
>kat@grendal.rain.com
>Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume




Cheers,

Maggie Secara
~The Elizabethan World is at http://ren.dm.net




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Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 08:02:47 +0000
Status: RO

Great article--it's about knowing what you are looking at, and figuring
out if your sources knew what *they* were looking at when they first
attempted to interpret it. One howlingly funny example has the costumed
subject wearing a gown with only one functional sleeve, for instance,
thanks to a misinterpretive drawing. 

I teach research and research writing and highly recommend it to my SCA
students.

				Arlys

On Sat, 6 Jul 2002 10:32:39 -0700 kat@grendal.rain.com writes:
> Regarding: "The Problem of Ruritanian Purple Feathers"
> > Since some of us have never seen the article in question, what's 
> it about?
> > -- Mara


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Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 08:04:29 +0000
Status: RO

One of our local Laurels has in fact spun nettles into thread. I don't
know if she's woven with it. Maybe Kat does.

				Arlys

				

On Fri, 5 Jul 2002 09:54:34 BST <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk> writes:
> Kendra Van Cleave <kendrav@attbi.com> wrote :
> 
> > I'm making the dress in a sheer cotton voile (the original was 
> made of
> > "nettlecloth" -- any ideas what that is?),
> 
> Only an guess, but I seem to remember being told that you can get a 
> linen-like thread from nettles. Presumbaly yu cna then weave it into 
> cloth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 09:57:28 -0700
Status: RO


> One of our local Laurels has in fact spun nettles into thread. I don't
> know if she's woven with it. Maybe Kat does.
> 
>     Arlys

She didn't make enough to weave with. She only made enough for 
test pieces for spinning to go with her display.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Movie: "Druids"
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Date: Sun, 07 Jul 2002 09:53:33 -0700
Status: RO

At 11:07 PM 7/2/02 -0700, you wrote:
>Oh oh oh, I am at this very momemt hurting myself for some undesignated 
>sins, apparently, by watching a film called "Druids" with Christopher 
>Lambert and Klaus Maria Brandauer, et al.
>
>To make it worth my while I will ask of the assembled h-costume multitude... 
>is there any costume virtue--or any other virtue--in this film at all?  
>Aside from the brief glorious appearance of Max vonSydow,anyway?
>
>Oh the pain, the pain!
>
>
>MaggiRos

On the other hand, "Druids" pretty much breaks the meter of Joe-Bob Briggs'
"breasts count".

In a weird way, it was a very enjoyable movie ... particularly once you
identified, analyzed, and filtered out the parts that were modern French
socio-political posturing.

Heather
>~noting the remarkably few horned helmets
>
>
>
>
>
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Date: Sun, 07 Jul 2002 10:01:49 -0700
Status: RO

At 02:58 PM 7/3/02 -0400, you wrote:

>movie was originally called "Vercingetorix," and for those who haven't seen
>it, that's just what it was -- the story of Vercingetorix, the famous chief
>of the Gauls defeated by Julius Caesar. Apparently they thought anyone
>outside of France would be more likely to go see a movie called "Druids,"
>although the Druids are barely in it. It seems to have been intended to be
>the French "Braveheart," but without the "triumph of the spirit" part. Poor
>old Vercingetorix takes a pretty dim view of things right from the start!

Perhaps one of the reasons that "Druids" doesn't seem to work as well as
"Braveheart" from a dramatic-structure and triumph-of-the-spirit point of
view, is that the overall structure of the film is actually remarkably true
to the historic events!  (Vastly unlike "Braveheart".)  Of course, you still
had to toss in a gratuitous romance (for which, as far as I know, there is
no historic reference -- but, hey, at least they didn't play fast and loose
with an actual historic woman) and of course the back-story of the
protagonist's youth is fiction, but in terms of the interactions with the
Romans and the eventual outcome, the movie stuck pretty close to the known
facts.

Heather

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Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 14:59:55 -0700
Status: RO

At 9:57 AM -0700 7/7/02, kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:
>  > One of our local Laurels has in fact spun nettles into thread. I don't
>>  know if she's woven with it. Maybe Kat does.
>>
>>      Arlys
>
>She didn't make enough to weave with. She only made enough for
>test pieces for spinning to go with her display.

I'm told, though I can't nail down the source at the moment, that 
nettle linen could be finely spun and woven to make a very sheer and 
soft fabric, and that some people preferred it as a luxury fabric to 
linen made from flax.

But I also wouldn't be surprised to see it show up, as hemp does, in 
a coarser form used for practical chores. (To repeat a well-known 
fact: the original "canvas" was a hempen fabric, named from 
"cannabis," the Latin word for hemp.)

Unlike flax or hemp, the raw materials for nettle linen would have 
been free for the gathering, at least in Western Europe.
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Just wondering if anyone else on this list is attending.

I've never been and I'm going alone, just wondering if there are any folks I
should try and meet up with.

Allison

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<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Just wondering if anyone else on this list is =
attending. </FONT>
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<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>I've never been and I'm going alone, just wondering if =
there are any folks I should try and meet up with.</FONT>
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<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Allison</FONT>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] nettlecloth (WAS linen weight?)
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Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 15:34:43 -0700
Status: RO

For those who are interested, the 1796 dress made of nettlecloth that
started this thread is pictured in a book on Danish fashion called _Moden
1790-1840_ by Ellen Andersen.  The fabric looks very much like a fine, sheer
cotton -- not at all coarse or even linen-y.  There is a note in the section
on dress of 1790-1804 that reads, "Women's fabrics:  Linen and nettlecloth
were the most popular materials for women's gowns, as they were stiffer than
muslin and thus well suited to the fashions of the 1790's."

- Kendra



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Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 15:35:30 -0700
Status: RO

Thanks for all of the input on linen weights -- I think I'm going to go for
one of the medium weights (probably 4.6) and see how it goes!

- Kendra



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Date: Sun, 07 Jul 2002 16:51:06 -0600
Status: RO

What Costume College?
--sue, wondering if she "killed" the wrong thread by accident....

> Allison Thurman wrote:
> 
> Just wondering if anyone else on this list is attending.
> 
> I've never been and I'm going alone, just wondering if there are any
> folks I should try and meet up with.
> 
> Allison
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume College?
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Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 15:52:58 -0700
Status: RO

Costume College (http://www.costumecollege.org/) happens every year in Van
Nuys, Calif. (near LA).  It's a weekend of costume classes (both lecture and
hands-on workshops) which is quite fabulous!

Allison, I'll be there Sat. & Sun. and would be happy to meet up!  Maybe we
can have an h-costume lunch?

- Kendra



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From: "Kendra Van Cleave" <kendrav@attbi.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] 1790's corsets
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Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 16:01:01 -0700
Status: RO

One last post from me!

Lately I've been pondering corsets of the 1790's lately, and wondering when
the change from the traditionally 18th century shape (cone) gave way to the
Regency ("lift and spread") shape in Europe and the U.S.  I know we've all
moved past the idea that women just stopped wearing ANY corset in the
1790's-1810's, but when did corsets start to change?

It seems that even as late as 1795, you still see dresses that were
obviously robe a l'anglaises recut with a higher waistline to fit the new
style.  At the same time, some of the early Directoire dresses (the gathered
chemise dresses) have linen under-bodices which may have supported the
breasts without need for a corset.  However, I question the idea that
someone who spent her whole life in corsets would suddenly feel comfortable
going without that kind of structure.  This all leads me to think that most
women must have, for at least some time, worn 18th century-shaped corsets
under their early Directoire gowns -- especially as French fashions filtered
out to other countries.

I know that there are few (if any?) extant corsets from this era (which may
in itself answer the "did they wear a corset" question).  _Revolution in
Fashion_ includes one corset from 1790 (still in the 18th c. cone shape) and
then skips to 1820 (which has the Regency "lift and spread" shape).
Cunnington's _English Women's Clothing in the 19th Century_ writes re: the
period 1800-1820, that there is little information on this period and so
accepts examples of the 1820's as representative of the earlier period.

Can anyone point me to any other sources that might help me fill in the gaps
between 1790 and 1820?  Does _Corsets & Crinolines_ touch on this era?

Thanks!

- Kendra



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 Hi Folks
OK the bead CD is now up on Professor Carlssons site.
For those interested have a look at :- 
http://www16.aname.net/~arkeodok/
First in a series from Gotland University's Archaeology Department.
One nice difference is that they should be in colour as opposed to
different gray textures as in many of the archaeology books.
Gotland is where over 80% of the Viking age finds in Sweden come
from. It was a major trading centre in the Baltic up until the
Battle of Visby.
Cheers
Sandy

Fr=94jel Gotlandica Viking Re-enactment Society.
http://www.frojel.com/
frojel@frojel.com


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<HTML>


<FONT COLOR=3D0000ff><U><FONT FACE=3D"Times New Roman" DEFAULT=3D"FACE">=
<FONT SIZE=3D"3" POINTSIZE=3D"12" DEFAULT=3D"SIZE"><BR>
<FONT COLOR=3D000000 DEFAULT=3D"COLOR"></U> Hi Folks<BR>
OK the bead CD is now up on Professor Carlssons site.<BR>
For those interested have a look at :- <FONT COLOR=3D0000ff><U><BR>
http://www16.aname.net/~arkeodok/<FONT COLOR=3D000000 DEFAULT=3D"COLOR">=
</U><BR>
First in a series from Gotland University's Archaeology Department.<BR>
One nice difference is that they should be in colour as opposed to<BR>
different gray textures as in many of the archaeology books.<BR>
Gotland is where over 80% of the Viking age finds in Sweden come<BR>
from. It was a major trading centre in the Baltic up until the<BR>
Battle of Visby.<BR>
Cheers<BR>
Sandy<FONT COLOR=3D000000 DEFAULT=3D"COLOR"><BR>

</HTML>

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<LEFT>
<FONT FACE=3D"Times New Roman" COLOR=3D"#000001" SIZE=3D"3" POINTSIZE=3D=
"12" DEFAULT=3D"ALL">
Fr=F6jel&nbsp;Gotlandica&nbsp;Viking&nbsp;Re-enactment&nbsp;Society.<br>=

http://www.frojel.com/<br>
frojel@frojel.com</HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Shoulder Roll "tutorial" website-feedback please
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Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 20:11:41 -0400
Status: RO


On Wed, 26 Jun 2002 16:35:09 -0700 "Saragrace knauf"
<saragrace@earthlink.net> writes:
> I have posted a 'how to' on shoulder rolls on my website.  I would
> appreciate any feedback on clarity etc.  Thanks!!

I like the notes on how to put it together, and have a quick question -
do you think there is any another fabric I could substitute for the felt
during construction?  I am allergic to wool!

Thanks,
Ysabiau

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume College?
In-Reply-To: <003401c22609$0a3a28a0$befc8218@WERNTO> "from Kendra Van Cleave
 at Jul 7, 2002 03:52:58 pm"
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Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 17:47:04 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

I'll be there as well!

.heather.


> Costume College (http://www.costumecollege.org/) happens every year in Van
> Nuys, Calif. (near LA).  It's a weekend of costume classes (both lecture and
> hands-on workshops) which is quite fabulous!
> 
> Allison, I'll be there Sat. & Sun. and would be happy to meet up!  Maybe we
> can have an h-costume lunch?
> 
> - Kendra
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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Status: RO

Hi, All. I have used nettle for various things, none of which has come close to
the h-cost standard for content (nettle beer, salads and an attempt at cheese
preservation), but I was reading some material a while back that noted that in
the deteriorating economy of late WWI Germany, shirts for soldiers were being
made from nettle fabric. Whether this is indicative of the low cost of
manufacture, the ease of access of the raw material (like cannabis, the leaves
of the plant can be used for other purposes, in this case, food) or the
coarseness of the cloth (and perhaps the poorness of the product itself), I do
not know, as the source did not mention it. I have never seen nettlecloth, but
the hemp canvas that I have seen comes in as many grades as those of linen,
from coarse sacking to fine sheer cloth suitable for even the most delicate
ladies' unmentionables. Nettle, aside from being slightly harder to gather than
the previously mentioned materials, can either be sewn as a crop or gathered in
the wild. I don't think nettle seed is as valuable as either of the others for
oils, so perhaps this might explain it's lack of proper cultivation.  Mike T.



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From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1790's corsets
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Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 21:56:43 -0500 (CDT)
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> Can anyone point me to any other sources that might help me fill in the gaps
> between 1790 and 1820?  Does _Corsets & Crinolines_ touch on this era?

I don't have _Corsets and Crinolines_, so I'm not sure what it does and
doesn't have, but one transitional corset that has always interested me is
styled like the 18th century conical corsets but is very short, midriff
length, made to be worn under high-waisted gowns.

There used to be a picture of this corset on the Long Island Staylace
Association web page, but the link to that particular image seems to be
currently non-functional.

To get to the image:
go to http://www.staylace.com	BE AWARE: This page tends toward the
fetish side of corsetry and may have images that some may find offensive.
Follow my instructions and you shouldn't be exposed to it.

In the frame on the left, scroll down to and click on "Image Galleries"
you want Corset Gallery #7, Historical Examples.
Skip the first three links and click on the first small image of a corset,
which has the caption "2 views - Early-nineteenth century (1819)"

Like I said, this image currently seems to be inaccessable, but I hope it
will soon be back.  It's an interesting corset and a valuable piece of
fashion history.

Emma

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From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1790's corsets
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Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 22:00:33 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


aha! I found it!  Kind of.

Direct link to the image:
http://www.staylace.com/gallery/gallery07/graphics/1819.jpg

Looking again, I think my remembered interpretation isn't entirely
correct, but now you can see and decide for yourselves.

Emma

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Date: Sun, 07 Jul 2002 22:01:05 -0600
Status: RO

Of course, there's also that fairy tale about the faithful sister making
seven nettle shirts for her brothers, who'd been turned into swans....I
know, I know, not exactly a *good* primary source, but I find it
interesting that something that sounds so fantastical as making cloth
from something as formidable and thorny as a nettle (in a story from an
oral tradition) actually may have been possible (also makes me wonder
how old that particular tale is...does anyone know? Is it from the Grimm
brothers? or maybe a Childe ballad?)
--Sue, rambling rather than getting ready for bed ;-D

leigh tartaglio wrote:
> <snipped>
> Hi, All. I have used nettle for various things, none of which has come close to
> the h-cost standard for content (nettle beer, salads and an attempt at cheese
> preservation), but I was reading some material a while back that noted that in
> the deteriorating economy of late WWI Germany, shirts for soldiers were being
> made from nettle fabric.
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Date: Sun, 07 Jul 2002 22:04:56 -0600
Status: RO

Use a felt that's *not* made out of wool? Like a craft felt, maybe?
--sue

Christine Wright wrote:
> 

> I like the notes on how to put it together, and have a quick question -
> do you think there is any another fabric I could substitute for the felt
> during construction?  I am allergic to wool!
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From: Rose Amberwulf <roscelin@attbi.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Nettle allergy
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Date: Sun, 07 Jul 2002 21:02:10 -0700
Status: RO

I hope this is not a silly question.  What if someone is allergic to 
nettles?  Would nettle fabric cause the same reaction as the raw nettle?

Roscelin
Rose Amberwulf

Chris Laning wrote:

> At 9:57 AM -0700 7/7/02, kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:
>
>>  > One of our local Laurels has in fact spun nettles into thread. I 
>> don't
>>
>>>  know if she's woven with it. Maybe Kat does.
>>>
>>>      Arlys
>>
>>
>> She didn't make enough to weave with. She only made enough for
>> test pieces for spinning to go with her display.
>
>
> I'm told, though I can't nail down the source at the moment, that 
> nettle linen could be finely spun and woven to make a very sheer and 
> soft fabric, and that some people preferred it as a luxury fabric to 
> linen made from flax.
>
> But I also wouldn't be surprised to see it show up, as hemp does, in a 
> coarser form used for practical chores. (To repeat a well-known fact: 
> the original "canvas" was a hempen fabric, named from "cannabis," the 
> Latin word for hemp.)
>
> Unlike flax or hemp, the raw materials for nettle linen would have 
> been free for the gathering, at least in Western Europe.



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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Shoulder Roll "tutorial" website-feedback please
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Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 04:03:25 +0000
Status: RO

I have a bodice that's crying out for shoulder rolls. I was thinking I might 
try cotton flannel instead of felt...

Mary/Katerine

>Use a felt that's *not* made out of wool? Like a craft felt, maybe?
>--sue
>
>Christine Wright wrote:
> >
>
> > I like the notes on how to put it together, and have a quick question -
> > do you think there is any another fabric I could substitute for the felt
> > during construction?  I am allergic to wool!
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nettle allergy
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Date: Sun, 07 Jul 2002 22:16:17 -0600
Status: RO

I dunno...I always got the impression that the raw stuff causes a
reaction because of the spiny outer part (and perhaps sap?)....and that
a fabric woven from nettles would be made from inner fibers, after some
amount of processing.  You'd probably have to take into account the
possibly different chemical compositions of the different parts of the
nettle plant, and factor in the changes that processing it would add.
Maybe it's like poison ivy or oak, which bothers most of us somewhat,
some of us severely, and a few not at all??
--maire, liberal arts major, and certainly no botanist <g>

Rose Amberwulf wrote:
> 
> I hope this is not a silly question.  What if someone is allergic to
> nettles?  Would nettle fabric cause the same reaction as the raw nettle?
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Date: Sun, 07 Jul 2002 22:20:54 -0600
Status: RO

Hi, all.  I've been doing some *serious* cleaning of my back bedroom,
which is where I store all of my fabric bins, half-done projects, etc.,
and I've found an "orphan" pattern I'd like to give to someone who could
put it to use....
It's an old Past Pattern's Edwardian Corset pattern, with pattern pieces
for sizes 6? up through 22/24+.  Probably had it for 16 years or so, and
I have no idea why I acquired it, as I don't do anything that late,
time-period wise.
At any rate, if any of you are interested, email me off-list, and I'll
make arrangements to snail-mail it to you.
--sue
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From: Rose Amberwulf <roscelin@attbi.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] 14th Century French lady
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Date: Sun, 07 Jul 2002 21:21:25 -0700
Status: RO

  I'm slowly working on my SCA 14th century French lady costumes.  It 
dawn on me that I know I have to have the chemise, but was there any 
other underclothing - breast binding, underwear, so on.  
   I hope someone can at least point me the right direction so I can be 
as complete as possible in my research.  Thank you.

Roscelin de Limoges
Rose Amberwulf

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Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 21:23:44 -0700
Status: RO

----- Original Message -----
From: "Emma Elizabeth Lehman" <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
Sent: Sunday, July 07, 2002 7:56 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1790's corsets


> I don't have _Corsets and Crinolines_, so I'm not sure what it does and
> doesn't have, but one transitional corset that has always interested me is
> styled like the 18th century conical corsets but is very short, midriff
> length, made to be worn under high-waisted gowns.

<snip>

http://www.staylace.com/gallery/gallery07/graphics/1819.jpg

This corset (on the left) actually comes from the book _Revolution in
Fashion_ (an exhibition at the Kyoto Costume Institute), and is from 1790.
It's exactly this shape that interests me -- I'm wondering how long it
stayed around before the 1820's corset shape that you see on the right in
that image.

- Kendra



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Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 21:31:33 -0700
Status: RO


>   I'm slowly working on my SCA 14th century French lady costumes.  It
> dawn on me that I know I have to have the chemise, but was there any
> other underclothing - breast binding, underwear, so on.

Apparently not.  My lady also found that the sleeveless chemise gives better
mobility in a tight gown/cote than the sleeved ones do.  The support comes
from the kirtle.

Dan

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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 00:30:46 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Sun, 7 Jul 2002, Sue Clemenger wrote:

> Of course, there's also that fairy tale about the faithful sister
> making seven nettle shirts for her brothers, who'd been turned into
> swans....I know, I know, not exactly a *good* primary source, but I
> find it interesting that something that sounds so fantastical as
> making cloth from something as formidable and thorny as a nettle (in a
> story from an oral tradition) actually may have been possible (also
> makes me wonder how old that particular tale is...does anyone know? Is
> it from the Grimm brothers? or maybe a Childe ballad?)

The Wild Swans.  Hans Christian Andersen did a version, but I believe he
drew on an older story (unlike most of his works, which were original).
The princess's eleven brothers are under an enchantment that turned them
into swans, and to free them she must gather nettles and use them to make
shirts for them. Reading that as a child was my first encounter with
"nettles," so I too originally assumed that this was an unlikely material
for clothmaking. Later I came to understand that the formidable nature of
the task had to do with the way the princess had to gather and prepare the
nettles -- picking them with her bare hands, and crushing the stems with
her bare feet to get the flax. (Andersen is quite specific about this.)
Also, only nettles from churchyards were acceptable, which means she had
to go roaming through graveyards to gather them (leading to accusations
that she was a witch).

As I understand it now, an English schoolchild would have understood
immediately where the difficulty lay, both because the use of nettles in
textiles was common knowledge, and because English schoolchildren all
knew nettles the way we in the States come to know poison ivy -- we're
taught to identify it when quite young, and many of us don't reach
adulthood without having an unfortunate encounter.

But nettles don't grow in the States, at least nowhere I know of, so we
aren't aware of their uses. And we don't learn to identify (and avoid)
them. So I didn't recognize them, or even consider the possibility of
their presence, as I tramped through a churchyard in the Cotswalds one
summer day in 1985 or so, reading medieval grave markers. Moments after I
swept a cluster of weeds away from a tombstone, my hand and arm started to
burn and swell horribly. So I did what any American would do upon
encountering poison ivy -- located a spigot and plunged my arm under
running water. It didn't help. Not knowing whether medical attention would
be needed, my traveling companion and I decided to seek help from a local.
It was Sunday and the shops were closed. Then I came to a furnituremaker's
shop and saw the owner working in a front room, and banged on the window.
He seemed hugely amused at these two clueless Americans who didn't know
what a common nettle looked like, much less what to do about it. First he
asked me when I'd encountered the nettles, and predicted that within two
hours I'd be perfectly fine. (He was right, but it was hard to believe at
that moment, given the red welts covering my forearm.) Then he warned me
that I should be very careful NOT to get it wet -- it would increase the
pain. (Too late.) And then he brought me to his back garden, plucked a big
handful of dockweed, and told me to rub it on my arm. By this time I was
sure he was having fun pulling the tourist's leg, but he swore this was a
natural remedy that every English child knows, and that he himself often
used on his dog, who periodically romped through a nettle patch. (Later,
others told me this was indeed common knowledge, and that English
schoolmasters never fail to point out that the fact that dockweed grows
near nettles is an example of Nature providing a remedy for her own ills).

The furnituremaker -- a young fellow in his 30s -- also informed me that
dockweed was related to cannibis. "You DO know cannibis, don't you?" he
grinned.

I still have trouble with the idea that the English *eat* nettles.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume College?
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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 01:19:54 EDT
Status: RO

I'll be going to Costumne College----and will be teaching the gold 
bullion/metal thread /pearl embroidery class on saturday morning:) Arriving 
friday late afternoon--leaving sunday by noon.  I'll put a red H next to my 
name on my name badge---Kathryn Wolters----and would love to meet up for an 
h-costumne lunch. Hope to meet more of you there!!
Albra/Kathryn
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 14th Century French lady
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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 00:55:03 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Sun, 7 Jul 2002, Rose Amberwulf wrote:

>   I'm slowly working on my SCA 14th century French lady costumes.  It
> dawn on me that I know I have to have the chemise, but was there any
> other underclothing - breast binding, underwear, so on.

I have never found any solid indication of any underwear other than the
chemise in this place and time. The only reference I've heard to breast
bindings is one oft-quoted complaint from a cleric writing in (I think?)
the 12th century, who may or may not be an accurate source on typical
women's wear. I know of no written references to bust-support garments in
the 14th century. At the same time, visual images abound that show nursing
Madonnas or other half-dressed women who clearly are wearing only the
chemise under their dress, so this is probably more likely to be the norm.
>From a practical standpoint, I've found the fitted dress (kirtle, cotte)
offers plenty of support, and in my experience would probably not work
anywhere near as well in the fitting if there were another support garment
underneath.

As to underwear below the waist, I would not rule out the possibility of
some wrapping or panty-style arrangement during the menstrual period
(there are a few documentary references to "menstrual cloths"). But for
normal wear, the norm and expectation seems to be that there was nothing
under the chemise. In bawdy tales, women need only lift their dresses to
allow their lovers swift access, or men take women by surprise by lifting
their skirts. This image occurs in pictures as well as writing. Again,
from a practical standpoint, it's a royal nuisance to use a toilet when
you're wearing underwear beneath long, full skirts, and that nuisance
would be compounded to near impossibility with a chamberpot. By contrast,
without the encumbrance of underwear, chamberpot use in full skirts would
be simple -- straddle and squat.

Several times on this list, someone has brought up a particular English
misericorde showing a woman donning what looks like boxer shorts. Given
that many misericordes illustrate proverbs, and also that they often show
role reversals or disruptions of the social order, I would be more
inclined to see that as an illustration of an anomaly meant to be
obviously ridiculous -- the woman "wearing the pants." Other than that
particular image, the references to menstrual cloths, and a sealskin pad
tied over the crotch of one of the Greenland corpses (which may have been
for either incontinence or menstrual bleeding), I know of no visual or
written evidence for 14th century female underwear.

I'd love to hear something more solid if it's out there, but at this point
I'd guess that even if some exception pops up, the vast majority of
evidence still points to chemise-only as the norm.

--Robin

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jul  8 02:16:40 2002
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From: kris <ionization@telus.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nettle allergy
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Date: Sun, 07 Jul 2002 22:59:27 -0700
Status: RO

I certainly haven't had any problems with nettle cloth. It's soft and cool, 
like linen (at least the kinds I've seen). Granted, I haven't ever worn 
something of it for a day, but I think that the process of making it into 
fabric takes away the stingers.

kris

At 10:16 PM 7/7/02 -0600, you wrote:
>I dunno...I always got the impression that the raw stuff causes a
>reaction because of the spiny outer part (and perhaps sap?)....and that
>a fabric woven from nettles would be made from inner fibers, after some
>amount of processing.  You'd probably have to take into account the
>possibly different chemical compositions of the different parts of the
>nettle plant, and factor in the changes that processing it would add.
>Maybe it's like poison ivy or oak, which bothers most of us somewhat,
>some of us severely, and a few not at all??
>--maire, liberal arts major, and certainly no botanist <g>
>
>Rose Amberwulf wrote:
> >
> > I hope this is not a silly question.  What if someone is allergic to
> > nettles?  Would nettle fabric cause the same reaction as the raw nettle?
>_______________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 06:11:44 +0000
Status: RO


Thanks for asking about this!  I had not heard of this before, but am going 
to plan on going next summer.

I hope you and anyone else going has a wonderful time this year.  Please 
report back and let us know how it was.

:) jessica

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jul  8 03:39:39 2002
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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 00:42:43 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO


Robin says: 
>But nettles don't grow in the States, at least nowhere I know of, so we
>aren't aware of their uses.

Oh, they certainly grow here on the west coast.  And I seem to remember
them growing in big, evil patches when we lived in Illinois.  Where do
you live?

Gah, in fact, we must go do battle with the nettles in the backyard again.
They keep trying to grow into bushes.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 00:49:01 -0700
Status: RO

At 10:16 PM -0600 7/7/02, Sue Clemenger wrote:
>I dunno...I always got the impression that the raw stuff causes a
>reaction because of the spiny outer part (and perhaps sap?)...[snip]
>
>Maybe it's like poison ivy or oak, which bothers most of us somewhat,
>some of us severely, and a few not at all??

Nope. <g> Specialized stinging hairs all over the plant. They 
actually work like miniature hypodermic needles to inject an irritant 
under the skin. Strictly speaking it's not an "allergy," since it 
gets virtually everyone who touches the plant -- even through blue 
jeans on occasion, as I can testify from personal experience. In bad 
cases nettle stings can even raise blisters. Legend has it that if 
you grasp the nettle plant FIRMLY it won't sting you, presumably 
because you have crushed the stinging cells before they get you, but 
I don't know anyone who has managed to achieve this.

Young, tender nettle plants, BTW, are quite edible (you gather them 
with rubber gloves on) when steamed like spinach, and heat 
inactivates the irritant. Presumably the fact that they sting makes 
them less attractive to animals like cows and horses, which don't 
cook :)

The fibers are well inside the plant and aren't affected at all.

At 12:30 AM -0500 7/8/02, Robin Netherton wrote:
>But nettles don't grow in the States, at least nowhere I know of, so we
>aren't aware of their uses. And we don't learn to identify (and avoid)
>them.

Actually they do, in the east, northeast and southern parts of the 
country. They tend to grow in thickets, in rich damp soil and 
sometimes in disturbed areas if there's enough moisture. They're 
pretty nondescript, so you wouldn't see them unless you were looking 
for them, especially since they have tiny inconspicuous greenish 
flowers. My own encounters with them were in Indiana and Ohio.

>...[snip]...
>The furnituremaker -- a young fellow in his 30s -- also informed me that
>dockweed was related to cannibis. "You DO know cannibis, don't you?" he
>grinned.

Um, he got it slightly backwards. The _nettle_ family and the 
Cannabis family are next-door neighbors, with the closest relatives 
to both of them being the elm and mulberry families. Dock, OTOH, is 
off in a different sublcass of the flowering plants, related to 
carnations, cactus, and beets. Dock and Cannabis _could_ be more 
unrelated and both still be flowering plants, but it would be a 
little difficult.

>I still have trouble with the idea that the English *eat* nettles.

Think of it as revenge :)
-- 
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|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jul  8 05:28:35 2002
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Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 02:11:12 -0700
Status: RO

Apologies if this has already been brought up (I'm still catching up on my 
h-costume reading from the week :} ) but the article you mentioned (and 
mentioned having difficulty finding) is available on the web:

The Problem of Ruritanian Purple Feathers
An Essay on Documentation
http://www.dreamworker-magazine.com/frontpage/purplefeathers.html

Hope this helps. :)  I was curious, so I'd typed it into Google to look for 
references, and I was surprised to find the *actual* article available.

-Laura

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Subject: [h-cost] Nettles
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Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 02:55:34 -0700
Status: RO

Alright... A few ramblings on nettles, from what I remember of my time in 
Germany.
Where we were living (south of Munich), nettles grew as weeds only, and so I 
would assume that this would make them a cheap, easy to find alternative to 
flax.  I know that there are two types (or more) of nettles, and that there 
are stinging, and non-stinging varieties.

What's more, in the case of the type of nettles that grew by our house, the 
plant no longer stung after flowering. (I actually remember as a child, 
going up and pushing a leaf aside to get a better view of a pretty white 
flower, and then realizing it was a nettle and that it had *not* stung 
me...)

And one last bit of memory that's filtering to the surface (source unknown) 
is that nettle stems were soaked (in water?  something elselike an acidic 
agent?), beaten, soaked again, and then prepared much like flax.

I don't know if this helps... Anyone have any further input? :)

-Laura

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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 11:14:32 +0100
Status: RO

>I know that there are two types (or more) of nettles, and that there
are stinging, and non-stinging varieties.

Which are unrelated

>What's more, in the case of the type of nettles that grew by our house, the
plant no longer stung after flowering.

This is not true of any stinging nettle I have ever know unfortunatly :(

After rain they don't sting as the acid is washed off. And it is after rain
one harvests them for cloth manufacture.

>And one last bit of memory that's filtering to the surface (source unknown)
is that nettle stems were soaked (in water?  something elselike an acidic
agent?), beaten, soaked again, and then prepared much like flax.

Yes preperation is much like flax, with soaking & beating

Mel

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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 11:09:31 BST
Status: RO

Kala Jathos <matrixsinger@hotmail.com> wrote :

>  I know that there are two types (or more) of nettles, and that there 
> are stinging, and non-stinging varieties.
> 
> What's more, in the case of the type of nettles that grew by our house, the 
> plant no longer stung after flowering. (I actually remember as a child, 
> going up and pushing a leaf aside to get a better view of a pretty white 
> flower, and then realizing it was a nettle and that it had *not* stung 
> me...)

Stinging nettles have tiny green flowers, and they *do* sting at any time. (well, very young leaves don't, but the rest of the plant will)

The ones with white flowers are "dead nettles", and while the leaf shape looks similar, I gather they're not related. The stem shape is different: very square stem on a dead nettle, as far as I remmeber (don't have any growing in the office, though I might go looking lunchtime). And no, they don't sting.

The story about "nettles in flower don't sting" was actually an important lesson in Growing Up for me. Aged about 6 or so: a nice man told the little girl this thing about how if a nettle has flowers on, it's safe to touch. He thought he was being helpful. I knew perfectly well what nettle flowers looked like (green), knew the difference between a dead nettle and a stinging nettle, and nevertheless believed what he said, because he was an adult. Tests (and badly stung hands) proved that he had been misleading. Stinging nettles sting. Important lesson learnt: adults can be wrong, too.

Quick Google search...
stinging nettle is Urtica dioica (and found lots of herbalism pages on what to do with it)
Dead neetle is Lamium album. Nice picture here:
http://www.purplesage.org.uk/profiles/whitedeadnettle.htm






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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 06:14:52 -0400
Status: RO

Brothers Grimm.  I still have the book, or my sister has it, somewhere.

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 12:01 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] linen weight?


> Of course, there's also that fairy tale about the faithful sister making
> seven nettle shirts for her brothers, who'd been turned into swans....I
> know, I know, not exactly a *good* primary source, but I find it
> interesting that something that sounds so fantastical as making cloth
> from something as formidable and thorny as a nettle (in a story from an
> oral tradition) actually may have been possible (also makes me wonder
> how old that particular tale is...does anyone know? Is it from the Grimm
> brothers? or maybe a Childe ballad?)
> --Sue, rambling rather than getting ready for bed ;-D
>
> leigh tartaglio wrote:
> > <snipped>
> > Hi, All. I have used nettle for various things, none of which has come
close to
> > the h-cost standard for content (nettle beer, salads and an attempt at
cheese
> > preservation), but I was reading some material a while back that noted
that in
> > the deteriorating economy of late WWI Germany, shirts for soldiers were
being
> > made from nettle fabric.
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Here is what Info I have on nettles in my data base. Certainly not complete but it will give you the general 
idea.
Hope it helps.
Sandy  

Nettle was cultivated in Scotland for the fibers in the stalks, to make a durable linen-like cloth. This use goes 
back to the Bronze Age. The very name Nettle comes from words meaning 'textile plant.'Nettle was popular 
as an agent that, by irritating the skin of an inflamed area, caused increased blood flow to the area, thereby 
reducing the inflammation. In Scotland, victims of gout and rheumatism allowed themselves to be scourged 
with Nettle in the dubious belief that this would alleviate their sufferings. Nettle neutralizes uric acid, prevents 
its crystallization aiding in its elimination from the system, thus relieving gout and arthritis. Nettle as an 
astringent helps to stop bleeding. The Nettle 'sting' is from histamine and formic acid in the hairs that trigger 
allergic response.

Nettle is good to use for anemic children as a tea, due to its nutritive value as an herb and its high in iron, 
silicon and potassium. Nettle is an alkalizing herb and is useful as a rich source of minerals. Nettle aids with 
diarrhea and dysentery and is good for inflammatory skin conditions. Nettle increases the flow of urine, 
shrinks inflamed tissues, helps blood circulation and purifies the blood. Nettle is a most excellent remedy for 
dandruff and will bring back the natural color of hair. Nettle helps to reduce menses flow and it can also be 
used as a tincture for hypothyroid conditions to increase thyroid function. Nettle it also cleanses the digestive 
tract and helps with stomach problems. Nettle functions much like a mild Cayenne by opening the vessels, 
thus increasing circulation and uplifting a weary body relieving fatigue and exhaustion. Nettle can alleviate 
allergic symptoms such as teary eyes and a runny nose.

NOTE: This herb is beneficial during pregnancy. It is a mineral rich nutritive herb with vitamin K to guard 
against excessive bleeding. It improves kidney function and helps prevent hemorrhoids.
     A plant of the genus Urtica, covered with minute sharp
     hairs containing a poison that produces a stinging sensation.
     Urtica gracitis is common in the Northern, and U.
     cham[ae]dryoides in the Southern, United States. the common
     European species, U. urens and U. dioica, are also found
     in the Eastern united States. U. pilulifera is the Roman
     nettle of England.
  Nettle \Net"tle\, n. [AS. netele; akin to D. netel, G. nessel,
     OHG. nezz["i]la, nazza, Dan. nelde, n["a]lde, Sw. n["a]ssla;
     cf, Lith. notere.] (Bot.)
     A plant of the genus Urtica, covered with minute sharp
     hairs containing a poison that produces a stinging sensation.
     Urtica gracitis is common in the Northern, and U.
     cham[ae]dryoides in the Southern, United States. the common
     European species, U. urens and U. dioica, are also found
     in the Eastern united States. U. pilulifera is the Roman
     nettle of England.
Nicholas Culpepper
(17th century astrologer-physician)
" The roots or leaves, or the juice of them, boiled and made into an electuary with honey and sugar, is a safe 
and sure medicine to open the passages of the lungs, which is the cause of wheezing and shortness of the 
breath. It helps to expectorate phlegm and to raise the imposthumed pleurisy. As a gargle it helps the 
swelling of the mouth and throat.
A decoction of the leaves provokes the courses and urine and expels gravel and stone. It kills worms in 
children, eases pain in the sides and dissolves wind in the spleen.
The seed taken as a drink is remedy against the bites of dogs and the poisinous qualities of Hemlock, 
Henbane, Nightshade and Mandrake. The bruised seed or leaves put into the nostrils takes away the 
polypus. The juice of the leaves or a decoction of the root is used as a wash for fistulas and gangrenes and 
for corroding scabs or itch."
Stinging nettle is difficult to harvest, but has a wealth of uses. When the Romans invaded Europe and Britain, 
they brought nettles with them, believing they would need them to beat themselves to keep warm. They were 
also used in this way on areas affected by arthritis or rheumatism. (1) The young leaves may be eaten as a 
"green, leafy vegetable" and are a good source of minerals. (1,2) The fibers from the stalks were used to 
make a very fine soft cloth, rope, fishing nets and whatever else needed to be sewn before flax and hemp 
came along. Slightly more difficult to harvest than flax it does however make a comparable soft fine cloth 
and is treated in the same manner to seperate the fibres then spun and woven. 
Formic acid and histamine cause the characteristic sting from the common nettle. (1) The juice from the plant 
is one of the remedies to counteract the sting. Yellowdock or curly dock can also be used to antidote the 
sting as can rosemary, mint and sage. (2) Regular toothpaste may also help neutralize the formic acid.
Why is the nettle such an important medicinal herb if it is so difficult to harvest? It is very good at gathering 
minerals from the ground, which are much needed to treat many imbalances in the body. Nettles contain 
acetylcholine, calcium, chlorine, chlorophyll, formic acid, glucoquinones, histamine, iodine, iron, magnesium, 
potassium, serotonin, silicon, sulfur, tannin, and vitamins A, B, C and K (1,3,4)) They have a cooling energy, 
and are drying and astringent. (1) The aerial parts may be used as an astringent, diuretic, expectorant, 
hemostatic (stop bleeding), circulatory stimulant, nutritive tonic, improve milk flow for nursing, lower blood 
sugar levels, treat gout and arthritis, and prevent scurvy. (1,3) The combination of iron and vitamin C is 
useful in treating anemia, because the vitamin C improves iron absorption from the GI tract. (1) When 
boiled, they have also been used as a green dye. (2) The root is used in combination with other herbs such 
as saw palmetto and pygeum to relieve symptoms of benign prostatic hypertrophy (BPH). It has also been 
used as a conditioner for dandruff and hair loss. (1) When mixed with salt and boiled it produces a yellow 
dye. (2) Nettles are also helpful in relieving the symptoms of hayfever and other allergic reactions that 
produce increased congestion in the sinuses. (3) The mineral content makes nettles helpful for goiter, 
osteoporosis, muscle cramps, high blood pressure and malabsorption syndrome. Almost any condition that 
requires improved mineral balance will benefit from nettles.

Nettles may be used as a tea, tincture, compress, in ointment or powdered, depending on the area of use. 
The root may be tinctured or simmered in water to make a decoction. The young sprouts in spring may be 
prepared as a vegetable or added to soup. A type of beer was made with the young sprouts in earlier times. 
(2) A recipe for Nettle Pudding and Nettle Beer may be found in our Recipes section. A cup or two of 
nettle tea drunk daily will help with gout, rheumatism, eczema, milk production, and heavy menstrual or other 
internal bleeding. (1) An infusion of nettles and red clover, mixed in equal proportions, helps cleanse the 
blood and is useful in treating acne. A compress soaked in nettle tea may be applied to arthritic joints, 
tendinitis, sprains and sciatica to relieve pain. Because of its astringency, nettles may be made into an 
ointment for hemorrhoids or the tea may be used in a sitz bath. Powdered nettle leaves may be inhaled like 
snuff to stop nosebleeds. The juice from the whole fresh plant may be used to antidote the sting and as a 
tonic for debilitated conditions or for a weak heart with fluid retention. (1) Maude Grieve offers a recipe for 
Nettle Hair Tonic: "Simmer a handful of young Nettles in a quart of water for 2 hours, strain and bottle when 
cold. Well saturate the scalp with the lotion every other night. This prevents the hair from falling and renders 
it soft and glossy." (2) The root may be used similarly.

Although nettles have no known side effects, there are some potential interactions to be aware of with 
certain prescription medications. Because of its vitamin K content, it has the potential to decrease the 
effectiveness of blood-thinning medications. It may increase the effectiveness is diuretics and medications 
that lower blood pressure. This should be watched in very elderly people who are more likely to lose their 
balance easily when blood pressure is too low. Nettles may also increase the effectiveness of anti-diabetic 
drugs commonly used in adult-onset diabetes. It has a hypoglycemic effect of its own. Nettles may still be 
used in any of these conditions, but a consistent daily amount should be taken to allow for adjustments in 
medications if necessary.

Stinging nettle is truly a useful herb even if it is a pain to pick. It is one of the best sources of minerals and 
has a wide variety of uses. It may even be considered a food when picked in the spring. Of course, don’t 
forget your gloves.


Fr”jel Gotlandica Viking Re-enactment Society.
http://www.frojel.com/
frojel@frojel.com



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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nettles (WAS:linen weight?)
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> As I understand it now, an English schoolchild would have
> understood immediately where the difficulty lay, both because the
> use of nettles in textiles was common knowledge, 

Not that common - I had no idea they were used for textiles until I 
had been involved in historic costuming for some time.

> and because English schoolchildren all knew nettles the way we in
> the States come to know poison ivy -- we're taught to identify it
> when quite young, and many of us don't reach adulthood without
> having an unfortunate encounter. 

Ain't that the truth.  We had nettles in our garden, and they grow 
wild all over the place.  Most English children learn to avoid nettles, 
(or recognize dock-leaves which can be rubbed on as a remedy to 
the nettle-rash) at a fairly early age - right Jane, Mel?

Of course, the non-stingng variety looks so similar (appart from the 
flowers being whiter/less green, I think) that it's best to avoid all 
varieties than take a chance on the one you see being a no-stinging 
type.  Worse, bith varieties can grow close-togehter so you may 
think you're safe and get stung anyway - I've been caught out that 
way.  I once fell into a patch of nettles when playing with a group of 
other children and emerged unharmed so thought I was safe to 
take a short cut through the nettlepatch a little later and my legs 
were a mass of nettle rash from the stinging nettles in among the 
harmless ones.




Teddy
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Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 21:21:37 -0700
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jane@williams.nildram.co.uk wrote:

> Kala Jathos <matrixsinger@hotmail.com> wrote :
>
> >  I know that there are two types (or more) of nettles, and that there
> > are stinging, and non-stinging varieties.
> >
> > What's more, in the case of the type of nettles that grew by our house, the
> > plant no longer stung after flowering. (I actually remember as a child,
> > going up and pushing a leaf aside to get a better view of a pretty white
> > flower, and then realizing it was a nettle and that it had *not* stung
> > me...)
>
> Stinging nettles have tiny green flowers, and they *do* sting at any time. (well, very young leaves don't, but the rest of the plant will)
>
> The ones with white flowers are "dead nettles", and while the leaf shape looks similar, I gather they're not related. The stem shape is different: very square stem on a dead nettle, as far as I remmeber (don't have any growing in the office, though I might go looking lunchtime). And no, they don't sting.
>

I knew about white nettles when I was a kiddie too. They seem to grow here (in
Australia) but I've never seen the stinging variety (though it's a bit hard to tell
when they're not flowering and I'm not game to touch and see). Maybe I'll have
a look at stem shape next time I see some.

A little more on topic I used to cringe in horror when I read about the girl making
shirts from nettles.....

Claire

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Thread-Topic: [h-cost] Nettle allergy You asked
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I get eczema on my hands occasionally. If nettles are in season I go and
run my hands through the tops of the nettle patch - agony for about 20
minutes, settle down to a slow burn, and after an hour or so the rash
has gone and it's taken the heat out of the eczema. It also works for
various allergic rashes I get to various things.

Strange but true.

It's also very effective for cold sores and chilblains, but I don't get
these.

Freyalyn


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I get eczema on my hands occasionally.  If nettles are in season I go and run my hands through the tops of the nettle patch - agony for about 20 minutes, settle down to a slow burn, and after an hour or so the rash has gone and it's taken the heat out of the eczema.  It also works for various allergic rashes I get to various things.<br>
<br>
Strange but true.<br>
<br>
It's also very effective for cold sores and chilblains, but I don't get these.<br>
<br>
Freyalyn<br>

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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 07:39:17 -0400
Status: RO

The pictures can also be helpful for realizing you've gotten a slightly
better handle on seeing the differences between them when you don't look the
article for a few years.;-)
Moira

>
> This has the text, but does not have the drawings which go with it.
> The drawings are very helpful in understanding what is being
> discussed in the article.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nettles (WAS:linen weight?)
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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 12:53:20 +0100
Status: RO

>at a fairly early age - right Jane, Mel?

Too right

>Of course, the non-stingng variety looks so similar (appart from the
flowers being whiter/less green, I think)

you townie Teddy ;) The leaves have only a very passing resemblance :) The
dead nettles are softer shape than stingers a completly different green and
shorter, much shorter. You suck the nectar out of the white  flowers

> a little later and my legs
were a mass of nettle rash from the stinging nettles in among the
harmless ones.

Are you sure it hadn't rained the first time ?

It is rare to see patches of dead nettles at least in the midlands !

Mel



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nettles (WAS:linen weight?)
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Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 12:56:54 +0100
Status: RO

Teddy wrote:
 
>> As I understand it now, an English schoolchild would have
>> understood immediately where the difficulty lay, both because the
>> use of nettles in textiles was common knowledge, 

>Not that common - I had no idea they were used for textiles until I 
>had been involved in historic costuming for some time.

I didn't know either until we were shown nettle fibres during a Field Studies Council course on the uses of wild plants.

>Of course, the non-stingng variety looks so similar (appart from the 
>flowers being whiter/less green, I think) that it's best to avoid all 
>varieties than take a chance on the one you see being a no-stinging 
>type.

Actually the flowers are quite different; stinging nettles have dangling strings of tiny green ones, deadnettle flowers grow close to the stem and have a distinctive shape with a curved hood. 

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 13:00:21 +0100
Status: RO

Since "Frontier House" was discussed after its US airing, I thought I would mention that it is now being shown on UK's Channel 4 on Sunday evenings.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1790's corsets
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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 08:02:26 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

On Sun, 7 Jul 2002, Kendra Van Cleave wrote:

> One last post from me!
>
> Lately I've been pondering corsets of the 1790's lately, and wondering when
> the change from the traditionally 18th century shape (cone) gave way to the
> Regency ("lift and spread") shape in Europe and the U.S.  I know we've all
> moved past the idea that women just stopped wearing ANY corset in the
> 1790's-1810's, but when did corsets start to change?

Hi, Kendra,
Coincidentally, I've been working on making a set of stays that are
supposed to be dated between 1795 and 1810.  They were discussed at one of
the Tidy's Symposiums a few years back, and a friend of mine was kind
enough to loan me a copy of the proceedings.  These stays are definitely
transitional -- they're mostly shaped like short-waisted late 18th c.
stays (unboned tabs), but with a high waist and boning mostly at the
center front, center back, and possibly the long angled side seam.  These
stays are interesting because they've got a single bust gusset inserted in
the front.  I'm making these up because I really don't like the idea of
the long-line Regency stays (a la Mantua Makers) which come over the hip
-- I'd really rather have my hips free.  We'll see how it works.

Last year I made a set of stays like a set in Waugh's _Corsets and
Crinolines_ -- again, from the late 18th c., with unboned tabs and very
light boning, but no fabric bust gusset inserted.  The center front has a
laced section that can be let out to act as a gusset, instead.
They worked pretty well, but then I'm not very busty.  I can wear my 18th
c. stays under my Regency gowns and get a moderately ok result -- I don't
get the Jennifer Ehle effect, but then I wouldn't in any case <G>.

> It seems that even as late as 1795, you still see dresses that were
> obviously robe a l'anglaises recut with a higher waistline to fit the new
> style.  At the same time, some of the early Directoire dresses (the gathered
> chemise dresses) have linen under-bodices which may have supported the
> breasts without need for a corset.  However, I question the idea that
> someone who spent her whole life in corsets would suddenly feel comfortable
> going without that kind of structure.  This all leads me to think that most
> women must have, for at least some time, worn 18th century-shaped corsets
> under their early Directoire gowns -- especially as French fashions filtered
> out to other countries.

I suspect you're probably right -- older women, at least, might have been
more likely to stick with styles of undergarments that they were used to
in their youth.

> Can anyone point me to any other sources that might help me fill in the gaps
> between 1790 and 1820?  Does _Corsets & Crinolines_ touch on this era?
>
> Thanks!
>
> - Kendra

I can't remember which page the one I made last year is on, but yes,
there's a set in there that more or less fits the bill.

I'm hoping that this new pair, with the bust gussets inserted, will look
more like the ones in this picture:

http://www.songsmyth.com/plates/1824corset.jpg

It's interesting that this plate (you can see the caption here:
http://www.songsmyth.com/underthings.html )

dates from 1824, which overlaps the date at which the other style of
corset (seen higher up on the page) seems to have come into vogue.  So it
seems like there must have been some overlap.

Interestingly, there's a paper on "The Unfashionable Use of Stays" that
talks about how older country women in Britain were wearing stays with
wooden busks into the beginning of the 20th century, I think -- again,
women sticking with styles they wore in their youth, even though the outer
clothing styles may have changed somewhat.

-- Mara

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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 08:12:07 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

Ah... that's an illustration from 'Revolution in Fashion', a nearly
unobtainable book.  Very much like the corset in Waugh; I wish one could
see the front...

-- Mara


On Sun, 7 Jul 2002, Emma Elizabeth Lehman wrote:

>
> aha! I found it!  Kind of.
>
> Direct link to the image:
> http://www.staylace.com/gallery/gallery07/graphics/1819.jpg
>
> Looking again, I think my remembered interpretation isn't entirely
> correct, but now you can see and decide for yourselves.
>
> Emma
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Robin's nettle encounter
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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 08:42:18 EDT
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<<...he swore [dockweed] was a
natural remedy that every English child knows, and that he himself often
used on his dog, who periodically romped through a nettle patch. (Later,
others told me this was indeed common knowledge, and that English
schoolmasters never fail to point out that the fact that dockweed grows
near nettles is an example of Nature providing a remedy for her own ills).>>


That's fascinating to me, because I have only studied American herbs and 
herbal remedies.  My sole knowledge of nettles is from Disney's "Bedknobs & 
Broomsticks"; the English stew them as vegetables.

--Gillian


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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">&lt;&lt;...he swore [dockweed] was a<BR>
natural remedy that every English child knows, and that he himself often<BR>
used on his dog, who periodically romped through a nettle patch. (Later,<BR>
others told me this was indeed common knowledge, and that English<BR>
schoolmasters never fail to point out that the fact that dockweed grows<BR>
near nettles is an example of Nature providing a remedy for her own ills).&gt;&gt;<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
That's fascinating to me, because I have only studied American herbs and herbal remedies.&nbsp; My sole knowledge of nettles is from Disney's "Bedknobs &amp; Broomsticks"; the English stew them as vegetables.<BR>
<BR>
--Gillian<BR>
<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nettles (WAS:linen weight?)
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Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 13:59:57 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> >Of course, the non-stingng variety looks so similar (appart from the
> flowers being whiter/less green, I think)
> 
> you townie Teddy ;)

Huh!  Half and half, thank's *very* much, Mel....<g>   I grew up on 
the outer edge of a  fairly small town, within a few minutes walk of 
open downland.

> The leaves have only a very passing resemblance :) The dead nettles
> are softer shape than stingers a completly different green and
> shorter, much shorter. You suck the nectar out of the white flowers

Close enough for me to mistake them - besides, no-one realized I 
needed glasses until I was eleven.  Details were often difficult to 
make out until my nose was within stinging range...<G>
  
> > a little later and my legs were a mass of nettle rash from the
> > stinging nettles in among the harmless ones. 
> 
> Are you sure it hadn't rained the first time ?

Pretty sure I just didn't fall as far into the nettles as I later ran while 
taking the shortcut, the ones by the path must have all been dead-
nettles (or the few stinging nettles were crused before they could 
sting me and/or the dead nettles prevented them from making 
contact....<shrug>)  It was only about a half-hour later that I tried 
the shortcut.
 
> It is rare to see patches of dead nettles at least in the midlands
> ! 

I don;'t recall them being that common in Bedfordshire either, the 
stinging variety I tend to remember better, however... I wonder why 
that should be?....<gggg>

Teddy
(taking a brief break from a *mountain* of cataloguing while I'm 
filling in on a different site.... Enjoying the break while it lasts, nearly 
a week off sick will have rendered the waiting mountain of books 
even larger.... Aaaaaargh!)


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Robin's nettle encounter
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>the English stew them as vegetables.


Not very often these days :)

Mel

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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&gt;the English stew them as=20
vegetables.<BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Not very often these days =
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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Mel</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 07:20:19 -0600
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Thanks to everyone volunteering to give my pattern a good home.  It's
gone now!
--sue
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nettles (WAS:linen weight?)
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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 14:26:29 +0100
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>Huh!  Half and half, thank's *very* much, Mel....<g>   I grew up on
the outer edge of a  fairly small town, within a few minutes walk of
open downland.

Sorry couldn't resist :0)

>, no-one realized I
needed glasses until I was eleven.

Ah well that makes a differance, girls know the differance (8 & 5 now)

>
Pretty sure I just didn't fall as far into the nettles as I later ran while
taking the shortcut, the ones by the path must have all been dead-

Yes dead nettle are common near paths
>
I don;'t recall them being that common in Bedfordshire either, the
stinging variety I tend to remember better, however... I wonder why
that should be?....

cause they hurt !!! No I meant they are fairly common but not in the same
place as stingers, probably because their needs differ. Stingers I think
also take over from them if I recall

Mel

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Subject: [h-cost] nettles-- correcting myself
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I take that back!  I have read about nettles in my American herbs studies -- 
dead ones, anyway.  I just knew them as "Archangel".  I still don't remember 
studying stinging nettles, but it has been awhile...

In either case, I wouldn't dare a cloth made of the stuff with my allergies 
to linen, wool, mohair, etc.  I might sew it for other people, if asked, but 
never wear it.

--Gillian, 
who just got a rash on both forearms because her client didn't prewash his 
linen before giving it to her to sew into tunics.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I take that back!&nbsp; I have read about nettles in my American herbs studies -- dead ones, anyway.&nbsp; I just knew them as "Archangel".&nbsp; I still don't remember studying stinging nettles, but it has been awhile...<BR>
<BR>
In either case, I wouldn't dare a cloth made of the stuff with my allergies to linen, wool, mohair, etc.&nbsp; I might sew it for other people, if asked, but never wear it.<BR>
<BR>
--Gillian, <BR>
who just got a rash on both forearms because her client didn't prewash his linen before giving it to her to sew into tunics.</FONT></HTML>

--part1_41.1fc1cb09.2a5aeb22_boundary--
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Subject: [h-cost] Simplicity 5958
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Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 14:22:54 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Anyone used Simplicity pattern 5958?  if so, can you let me know 
what you think of it as a startign point for the frock-coat long 
waistcoat combination?

Ta muchly

Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nettles (WAS:linen weight?)
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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 14:28:31 BST
Status: RO

Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote :

> > >Of course, the non-stingng variety looks so similar (appart from the
> > flowers being whiter/less green, I think)
> > 
> > you townie Teddy ;)
> 
> Huh!  Half and half, thank's *very* much, Mel....   I grew up on 
> the outer edge of a  fairly small town, within a few minutes walk of 
> open downland.

You know what's really weird? I grew up on a different outer edge of the same small town (well, if you count Luton/Dunstable as the same place, and as small).

> Close enough for me to mistake them - besides, no-one realized I 
> needed glasses until I was eleven.  

Snap....

I'm getting worried. I am *NOT* a clone of Teddy. OK, if you averaged us out you'd get a normal-width person of normal costume-making ability, but....

> I don;'t recall them [dead nettles] being that common in Bedfordshire either, 

Common in our garden, for some reason. No stingers there, though. And acres of both, mixed, in Bedford Priory Park at the moment.

(If anyone wants to try making the fibre and the cloth, I can get you the raw materials by the ton!)







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Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 07:36:45 -0600
Status: RO

Speaking of using plants we may often consider weeds, some friends of
mine, who are into natural dyeing, have discovered that you can get
really nifty shades of green using tansy or knapweed (whole plant, no
root in both cases), both of which are ubiquitous around here (Montana
has a bad problem with these and other "noxious weeds.").  You even get
a really decent darker green if you do an iron bath on the fibers after
the dyeing.  I've just seen the results on wool and silk fibers (the
wool definitely took the dye more strongly), although they apparently
played with some linen threads as well.  No idea how colorfast it is,
but now I'm sure wishing I could find some white wool
*fabric.*....*sigh* ;-)
--sue, who's also discovered you get a really good, screaming yellow
using dandelion flowers, which makes an eye-popping bright green when
you overdye it with indigo <g>
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Nettle allergy
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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 09:04:23 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Mon, 8 Jul 2002, Chris Laning wrote:

> At 12:30 AM -0500 7/8/02, Robin Netherton wrote:
> >But nettles don't grow in the States, at least nowhere I know of, so we
> >aren't aware of their uses. And we don't learn to identify (and avoid)
> >them.
> 
> Actually they do, in the east, northeast and southern parts of the 
> country.

Wow. I wonder why we never hear about them here? You'd think we'd all have
early lessons on how to avoid the things. Or is it a less potent variety
or something?

> >The furnituremaker -- a young fellow in his 30s -- also informed me that
> >dockweed was related to cannibis. "You DO know cannibis, don't you?" he
> >grinned.
> 
> Um, he got it slightly backwards.

No, more likely my imperfect memory is at fault. I was not exactly in the
best condition to retain a botany lesson. (And he was, um, really cute.)

--Robin

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nettles (WAS:linen weight?)
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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 09:13:30 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Mon, 8 Jul 2002, Teddy wrote:

> > As I understand it now, an English schoolchild would have
> > understood immediately where the difficulty lay, both because the
> > use of nettles in textiles was common knowledge, 
> 
> Not that common - I had no idea they were used for textiles until I 
> had been involved in historic costuming for some time.

Sorry. I meant at the time Hans Christian Andersen was writing.  Or at
least when the story itself developed, as I believe he was drawing on an
older source. At least, that was in my head when I wrote, but I wasn't at
all clear.

--Robin


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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 06:32:53 -0700
Status: RO

Oh a question that is easy to answer!!  I didn't use wool felt.  Not
sure where you are from, but in the US you can buy inexpensive synthetic
felt in 8 1/2 by 11 rectangles in many colors (not that it shows).
Shouldn't be a problem.  If you are not from the US, I am sure that I
could help you find an online source.  Just let me know.


**I like the notes on how to put it together, and have a quick 
**question - do you think there is any another fabric I could 
**substitute for the felt during construction?  I am allergic to wool!
**
**Thanks,
**Ysabiau

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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 10:03:20 EDT
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In a message dated 7/7/2002 11:01:33 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
00217146@bigred.unl.edu writes:


> 
> Direct link to the image:
> http://www.staylace.com/gallery/gallery07/graphics/1819.jpg
> 
> 

These are images from "The Revolution in Fashion"....a book maddeningly not 
still in print!!!! GRRRRRRR. Anyway, this book also has images of an early 
19th century 2 piece bra-like thingie that criss crosses over the breasts and 
is lightly boned.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 7/7/2002 11:01:33 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 00217146@bigred.unl.edu writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">
<BR>Direct link to the image:
<BR>http://www.staylace.com/gallery/gallery07/graphics/1819.jpg
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>These are images from "The Revolution in Fashion"....a book maddeningly not still in print!!!! GRRRRRRR. Anyway, this book also has images of an early 19th century 2 piece bra-like thingie that criss crosses over the breasts and is lightly boned.</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 10:30:16 -0400
Status: RO

We had nettles around in Minnesota while I was growing up. The leaves 
(and stems?) had little hair-like spikes on them that broke off in 
the skin- sort of like glass fibers, or some cacti. You could reduce 
the discomfort by putting tape on your skin where you were stung, 
then pulling it off- most of the fibers stuck to the tape and were 
removed from the skin.

-Amanda
former Midwestern girl :)
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jul  8 11:01:42 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: 14th Century French lady
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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 07:43:35 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Greetings,

Hello list, I'm new here... <hand waving in greeting>

If you make your chemise very close-fitting and
laceable (up the front), you can easily and
comfortably acquire the profile of a Gothic lady in a
tight-fitting dress (see Robin Netherton's extensive
notes on this subject) -- all while achieving good
bosum support. I also have finally found the correct
shaping of the pattern on myself so that the sleeves
do not have to be tight. Yes, you can make sleeveless
chemises with thin shoulder straps, but the biggest
downside to that might be a lack of underarm
protection. Do we really want our nice kirtles and
cotes coming in direct contact with our fragrant
underarms? <smile>

The support on a sleeved chemise is done entirely with
a very tight fit immediately under the bosum, a bit of
shaping of the panels covering the bosum, and the
shoulder seams holding the whole thing up. When laced,
the chemise does an excellent job of holding my
not-small bosum in place and it stays there all day
long with no discomfort. All that is to say you do not
need breast binding. 

As for underwear, even though we are still debating
that issue for women, you could attempt authenticity
by mimicking the male version of underwear for that
time period. Let's face it -- chafing is a real issue
-- as real as the desire for bosum support when one's
bosum is large. It does not make sense to me that
women walked around constantly with sore inner thighs.
Unfortunately, I can't give you detailed documentation
for female undies at this time (no research done
yet... anyone else?), but there are some attempts by
costume historians to explain and replicate male
undies. Perhaps begin with those.

Marcele de Montsegur
__________________________
From: Rose Amberwulf <roscelin@attbi.com>
Subject: [h-cost] 14th Century French lady

  I'm slowly working on my SCA 14th century French
lady costumes.  It 
dawn on me that I know I have to have the chemise, but
was there any 
other underclothing - breast binding, underwear, so
on.  
   I hope someone can at least point me the right
direction so I can be 
as complete as possible in my research.  Thank you.

Roscelin de Limoges
Rose Amberwulf


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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1790's corsets
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Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 07:52:42 -0700
Status: RO


>However, I question the idea that
> > someone who spent her whole life in corsets would suddenly feel comfortable
> > going without that kind of structure.  This all leads me to think that most
> > women must have, for at least some time, worn 18th century-shaped corsets
> > under their early Directoire gowns -- especially as French fashions 
> filtered
> > out to other countries.
>
>I suspect you're probably right -- older women, at least, might have been
>more likely to stick with styles of undergarments that they were used to
>in their youth.

There are prints from this period which show women in the older more rigid 
style and women in the newer softer style, both in the same picture.  And 
my own grandmother (the one born in 1880) always wore a long corset-thing, 
even into the 1970s.

>Interestingly, there's a paper on "The Unfashionable Use of Stays" that
>talks about how older country women in Britain were wearing stays with
>wooden busks into the beginning of the 20th century, I think -- again,
>women sticking with styles they wore in their youth, even though the outer
>clothing styles may have changed somewhat.




Kayta

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nettles (WAS:linen weight?)
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Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 15:55:29 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

> > I grew up on the outer edge of a  fairly small town, within a
> > few minutes walk of open downland. 
> 
> You know what's really weird? I grew up on a different outer edge of
> the same small town

Strange that we didn't meet until a few years ago when we were 
both living in different towns.



Teddy
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From: The Duchess <duchess@bustles-and-bows.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1790's corsets
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Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 16:10:09 +0100
Status: RO

At 08:12 AM 7/8/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>Ah... that's an illustration from 'Revolution in Fashion', a nearly
>unobtainable book.  Very much like the corset in Waugh; I wish one could
>see the front...

If you go to http://www.faintingcouch.com/2542.html they have a 1790's 
corset for sale with some very good photographs. At $3500 I can't see many 
people being able to afford it tho'.

Lissa

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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 08:06:04 -0700
Status: RO


----- Original Message -----
From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 7:52 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1790's corsets


> There are prints from this period which show women in the older more rigid
> style and women in the newer softer style, both in the same picture.  And
> my own grandmother (the one born in 1880) always wore a long corset-thing,
> even into the 1970s.

ooo, that sounds interesting!  Any ideas where I might find these prints?

- Kendra



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Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 16:18:26 +0100
Status: RO

At 08:12 AM 7/8/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>Ah... that's an illustration from 'Revolution in Fashion', a nearly
>unobtainable book.  Very much like the corset in Waugh; I wish one could
>see the front...

If you go to http://www.faintingcouch.com/2542.html they have a 1790's 
corset for sale with some very good photographs. At $3500 I can't see many 
people being able to afford it tho'.

Ignore the above, it's 1720-40 not 1790's, sorry put it down to a senior 
moment!

Lissa

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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 10:45:09 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Mon, 8 Jul 2002, Tasha Kelly wrote:

> Hello list, I'm new here... <hand waving in greeting>

Hi, Tasha! Nice to have you aboard.

> If you make your chemise very close-fitting and laceable (up the
> front), you can easily and comfortably acquire the profile of a Gothic
> lady in a tight-fitting dress (see Robin Netherton's extensive notes
> on this subject)

Just to clarify: The method I teach is for fitting the dress itself, not a
chemise. I recommend a chemise that is not very full but is not fitted
either. I have seen no indication of a fitted chemise or a chemise that
laces up the front in this period, and I've looked at quite a few images
of chemises. Also, I've found that lining the dress helps substantially
with the fitting and support, and I can't see lining a chemise.

But you're not the first person I've heard applying my methods to fit a
chemise. If that works for you and for your desired level of authenticity,
great! I just want to make sure people know that using a fitted chemise as
a support layer is not an approach I would suggest as historically
accurate for 14th-century France.

> Yes, you can make sleeveless chemises with thin shoulder straps, but
> the biggest downside to that might be a lack of underarm protection.
> Do we really want our nice kirtles and cotes coming in direct contact
> with our fragrant underarms? <smile>

With this I agree wholeheartedly. Most illustrations I've seen of chemises
(mostly in French and Flemish art) indicate the presence of sleeves. The
only sleeveless sources I've seen are the supposed 14th-c. German chemise
in Kohler (provenance uncertain and now apparently lost) and some images
in the Wenceslaus Bible (Bohemia). That suggests to me the possibility
that sleeveless chemises, if worn, were specific to that part of the
Continent. (We recently had an extensive discussion on the list about this
that should be available in the archives.)

Personally, I've found the dress to be more comfortable on the arms with a
layer of chemise as cushioning. Think of it as a sock under a shoe -- it
minimizes chafing. If you wear a dress with a tight sleeve directly over
your arm, it rubs against your skin when you move. If you have a chemise
layer, the rubbing occurs between the dress fabric and the chemise, while
the chemise itself stays put against your skin. I make my chemise sleeves
rather narrow, use a fairly thin linen (not cotton!), and fit the sleeves
over the chemise with my arm bent midway between straight and fully
flexed.

--Robin

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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 11:22:55 -0300
Status: RO

 And my own grandmother (the one born in 1880) always wore a long
corset-thing,

Mine, too.  My grandmother was born in 1882.  When I was a child I remember
asking her why she put on her corset (one of those long pink things with
garters) first thing in the morning and took it off just to sleep. She said
she'd always worn one and her back hurt without it. She also wore
high-heeled bedroom slippers because flat shoes hurt her feet.  She was
funny and cuddly and wonderful, but her body was rather formal!

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Simplicity 5958
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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 10:23:29 -0500
Status: RO


Hi Teddy!

I took another look at the pattern and I'd say that it's a decent
beginning point but it needs a fair amount of tweaking to make it truly
correct to period. I'd take a look at a good picture book like "Historic
Costume in Detail" to see exactly how you should alter the pattern.


Karen



On Mon, 08 Jul 2002 14:22:54 +0000 (GMT) Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> writes:
> Anyone used Simplicity pattern 5958?  if so, can you let me know 
> what you think of it as a startign point for the frock-coat long 
> waistcoat combination?
> 
> Ta muchly
> 
> Teddy
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nettles (WAS:linen weight?)
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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 16:25:22 BST
Status: RO

Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote :

> > > I grew up on the outer edge of a  fairly small town, within a
> > > few minutes walk of open downland. 
> > 
> > You know what's really weird? I grew up on a different outer edge of
> > the same small town
> 
> Strange that we didn't meet until a few years ago when we were 
> both living in different towns.

Maybe it's not that small a town? Pop 169,000, a web-search tells me.





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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 08:49:36 -0700
Status: RO


> But nettles don't grow in the States, at least nowhere I know of, so
> we aren't aware of their uses. And we don't learn to identify (and
> avoid) them. So I didn't recognize them, or even consider the
> possibility of their presence, as I tramped through a churchyard in
> the Cotswalds one summer day in 1985 or so, reading medieval grave
> markers. Moments after I swept a cluster of weeds away from a
> tombstone, my hand and arm started to burn and swell horribly. So I
> did what any American would do upon encountering poison ivy -- located
> a spigot and plunged my arm under running water.

Yow, that's an extreme form of nettle problem. Green soap is the 
usual cure, same as poison ivy/oak. (I've never found plain water to 
be much use with that either.)

Actually nettles (both real stinging nettles and the dead nettles 
with the white flowers) are quite common in the Pacific Northwest 
where I grew up. You learn early what they are and how to avoid 
them and what to do if you do get into them, just like with poison 
ivy/oak. The only good thing is that dead ones do not do nearly the 
same damage as dead poison ivy/oak.  The "stingers" go away 
pretty quickly.

Then
> he warned me that I should be very careful NOT to get it wet -- it
> would increase the pain. (Too late.) 

Interesting. Never had that much problem with it later. It was 
always the immediate problem (which after the first encounter, you 
tend not to have again.)
 
> I still have trouble with the idea that the English *eat* nettles.

So do Americans when they can get them young and tender. They 
make a great soup too. 


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Subject: Flax was Re: [h-cost] Nettles
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Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 15:41:29 +0000
Status: RO

>And one last bit of memory that's filtering to the surface (source unknown) 
>is that nettle stems were soaked (in water?  something elselike an acidic 
>agent?), beaten, soaked again, and then prepared much like flax.

Now you made me think of an old question that's been resurfacing in my head 
but that I never did anything with before...

How WAS flax prepared? Any good website? How was it spun into thread? Or was 
it used as is to make very thin fabric? Does it grow around here? (here 
being Montreal, Canada) I would think so since we have a re-creation of a 
village not far from here that tells us they used to use it about a hundred 
years ago. And, one last question: if I wanted to grow it, does someone have 
a good source for SMALL quantities of seeds?

Thanks :-)
Alix

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 11:30:45 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Mon, 8 Jul 2002 kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:

> > Then
> > he warned me that I should be very careful NOT to get it wet -- it
> > would increase the pain. (Too late.) 
> 
> Interesting. Never had that much problem with it later. It was 
> always the immediate problem (which after the first encounter, you 
> tend not to have again.)

I wasn't clear. He meant that during the two-hour-or-so span it would take
for the reaction to clear, that using water would just make it hurt more.
And I had already flushed it with water within just a few minutes of the
reaction beginning, and it didn't help at all. I have no idea if it would
have hurt less if I hadn't tried to wash it off, but it was pretty damn
painful!

Based on the different descriptions I've seen from various people on this
list, located in various regions, I wonder if there are several varieties
of stinging nettles, with varying degrees of effect.

At least I was hit by Genuine English stinging nettles, in a Genuine
Medieval Churchyard. ;-)

--Robin

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Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 09:08:17 -0700
Status: RO

According to the following article,  the textile industry is
experimenting with nettle cloth as a modern commerical product.

http://www.spectrum.ieee.org/htmlCache/2002-07-02T145618Z_01_N02163426_RTRIDST_0_SCIENCE-LIFE-BRITAIN-NETTLES-DC.html

Fran

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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 11:30:16 -0500
Status: RO

Oh! Oh! I know this one!!!!!


When I was a senior Girl Scout, we did pioneer crafts at a local log
cabin. One of the crafts we did was processing and spinning flax. Flax is
an annual. It generally grows in temperate climates, some of the best
linen comes from Ireland and Holland- or at least used to. At the end of
it's life cycle, the flax would be pulled up by the roots to maintain as
long a fiber as possible and then 'retted' which entailed allowing the
stalks to lie in shallow, moving water until the outer stem rotted off.
I'm not sure how long this would take, but while it was going on
apparently the water was not suitable for drinking or other human
consumption. The end product is something that looks like a robust straw
or very fine stick about 2-3 feet long. These are then broken on a flax
break. It's a simple device but I'm not sure if I can describe it
effectively- it it about waist high, made of wood, and hinged at one end
so that the center section can be raised up by a handle- think of a
really big triple bladed kinife (dull blades), hinged at one end so that
the blades fall between slots in the base. Completely confused? Good. You
place the flax on the break and proceed to smash it over and over,
breaking off the brittle outer layer but not damaging the flexible inner
fibers. After you are done breaking the flax, you 'scutch' the flax which
helps to remove the stem bits which are still clinging onto the flax. The
scutching knife looks like a broad bladed sword made of wood- once again
it is dull so as not to cut the fibers. The flax is held up and struck
with the scutching knife in a glancing manner until no more bits of stem
come off. Then the flax is run thru a series of hackles to further clean
and smooth it out. At this point it looks very much like pale blonde
hair. A hackle is a series of closely spaced pointy bits (ours were made
of long thick nails) sticking up thru a board. You comb the flax thru,
just like hair, until it pulls thru smoothly. The left over bits of short
fibers and tangles are known as tow. Depending on how fine you want the
end product to be, you put the flax thru finer and finer hackles. To spin
the flax you first dress it onto a distaff so that all the fibers are
running in the same direction. It ends up looking like a gentle spiral,
tied at the top tightly and at the bottom loosely which gives the whole
thing a bit of a pear shape. The distaff is either held under the arm for
drop spinning, or set into a hole in the spinning wheel for wheel
spinning. A cup of water (or lots of spit!) is used to wet the fibers as
they are spun as the vegetable fibers don't have any natural moisture.
Spinning flax can be hard on your hands as the fibers are tough and dry,
and the water doesn't help your hands at all! We used to go back and
forth spinning flax and wool as the lanolin in the wool would sooth the
soreness of our fingers. Once the linen thread was spun (once it is
processed, flax changes name to linen), it can be woven just like any
fiber.  The linen doesn't have the natural elasticity that wool does so
you may need to warp the loom a bit more carefully to allow for some
length to be taken up by the weaving. As you can see, it's a fairly labor
intensive process. If you are looking for flax seeds, be careful that you
don't get the ornamental flax that is commonly sold as a garden plant. I
believe that it is related to textile flax, but doesn't have the long
inner fibers. 


Karen



On Mon, 08 Jul 2002 15:41:29 +0000 "Audrey Bergeron-Morin"
<audreybmorin2@hotmail.com> writes:
> >And one last bit of memory that's filtering to the surface (source 
> unknown) 
> >is that nettle stems were soaked (in water?  something elselike an 
> acidic 
> >agent?), beaten, soaked again, and then prepared much like flax.
> 
> Now you made me think of an old question that's been resurfacing in 
> my head 
> but that I never did anything with before...
> 
> How WAS flax prepared? Any good website? How was it spun into 
> thread? Or was 
> it used as is to make very thin fabric? Does it grow around here? 
> (here 
> being Montreal, Canada) I would think so since we have a re-creation 
> of a 
> village not far from here that tells us they used to use it about a 
> hundred 
> years ago. And, one last question: if I wanted to grow it, does 
> someone have 
> a good source for SMALL quantities of seeds?
> 
> Thanks :-)
> Alix
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 09:30:56 -0700
Status: RO


> At least I was hit by Genuine English stinging nettles, in a Genuine
> Medieval Churchyard. ;-)
> 
> --Robin

Something I'm sure you'd just as soon *not* repeat. ;)


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Subject: [h-cost] Bodiced Petticoat, was Re: 1790's corsets
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Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 12:20:26 -0400
Status: RO

Ah, how's this for luck?  I'm working on a friend's Regency ensemble 
and was just mulling over the corset issue yesterday.  Since we're 
focusing on the 1810-1815 time frame, I was rationalizing the long, hip 
covering corset as a likely canidate, but my friend was more interested 
in the possibility of not needing to wear a corset (she hasn't 
succumbed to gravity yet, so she probably could avoid the need for 
serious support).  But I ran across the La Mode Bagatalle's Regency 
Wardrobe pattern and was interested in the the "bodiced petticoat" as a 
possible compromise between no corset and some insurance against a 
saggy bodice.  Judging from the pictures on the package, it appears 
that the bodiced petticoat is similar to what Lydia wore in 
A&E's "Pride & Prejudice" where she's running about the house in her 
undies and collides with Mr. Collins... Is this what the bodiced 
petticoat is?  Is there any historical evidence for such a thing?  I've 
heard rave reviews about LMB's pattern, although it's on the pricey 
side, but I'd like to know the history of this garment.  Does anyone 
have any further info?  Thank you!

Sarah
http://www.elizabethanlady.com

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1790's corsets
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Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 09:27:57 -0700
Status: RO


> > There are prints from this period which show women in the older more rigid
> > style and women in the newer softer style, both in the same picture.  And
> > my own grandmother (the one born in 1880) always wore a long corset-thing,
> > even into the 1970s.
>
>ooo, that sounds interesting!  Any ideas where I might find these prints?

costume books.


Kayta

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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 12:09:11 -0500 (CDT)
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On Mon, 8 Jul 2002 kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:

> > At least I was hit by Genuine English stinging nettles, in a Genuine
> > Medieval Churchyard. ;-)
> 
> Something I'm sure you'd just as soon *not* repeat. ;)

Only if I can be assured that there will be a really cute 30-something
furnituremaker handy who will take me to his back garden and rub dockweed
on it for me ;-)

--Robin, willing to make personal sacrifices in the name of research

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jul  8 13:21:21 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nettle allergy You asked
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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 10:05:04 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

doesn' seem that strange -- according to the herbalist page here
http://www.purplesage.org.uk/profiles/nettle.htm

nettles are very useful to increase circulation, which I imagine would help 
carry away the things causing rashes or outbreaks.  

.heather.meadows.


> I get eczema on my hands occasionally. If nettles are in season I go and
> run my hands through the tops of the nettle patch - agony for about 20
> minutes, settle down to a slow burn, and after an hour or so the rash
> has gone and it's taken the heat out of the eczema. It also works for
> various allergic rashes I get to various things.
> 
> Strange but true.
> 
> It's also very effective for cold sores and chilblains, but I don't get
> these.
> 
> Freyalyn
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________________________
> Sign up for FREE iVillage newsletters <http://s.ivillage.com/rd/16705> .
> >From health and pregnancy to shopping and relationships, iVillage
> has the scoop on what matters most to you. 

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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 08:58:35 +0000
Status: RO

If you collide with stinging nettle, use a cool compress of tea leaves or
coffee. The tannic acid takes care of the problem.

We have lots of stinging nettle up here--our edge of the Pacific NW is a
rain forest.


					Arlys

P.S. Hiya Rose! :)


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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 10:14:54 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

I want that book to come back in print so badly.  Maddening is right!

.heather.


> 
> These are images from "The Revolution in Fashion"....a book maddeningly not 
> still in print!!!! GRRRRRRR. Anyway, this book also has images of an early 
> 19th century 2 piece bra-like thingie that criss crosses over the breasts and 
> is lightly boned.

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: Flax was Re: [h-cost] Nettles
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Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 10:16:32 -0700
Status: RO


>Then the flax is run thru a series of hackles to further clean
>and smooth it out. At this point it looks very much like pale blonde
>hair. A hackle is a series of closely spaced pointy bits (ours were made
>of long thick nails) sticking up thru a board. You comb the flax thru,
>just like hair, until it pulls thru smoothly. The left over bits of short
>fibers and tangles are known as tow.

This is, of course, why blondes are called tow-headed.


Kayta

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1790's corsets
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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 13:33:59 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

I saw this on Ebay last week.  She's asking WAY too much for it -- most
similar stays go for around $250-$500.  Also, I'd place it around the
third quarter of the 18th century, whereas she thinks it dates from
1720-1740.  Of course, stays are notoriously hard to date, but it really
looks later than 1740 to me...

Definitely great pics, though!

Cheers,
Mara

On Mon, 8 Jul 2002, The Duchess wrote:
> If you go to http://www.faintingcouch.com/2542.html they have a 1790's
> corset for sale with some very good photographs. At $3500 I can't see many
> people being able to afford it tho'.
>
> Lissa

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jul  8 14:00:26 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bodiced Petticoat, was Re: 1790's corsets
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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 13:42:27 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

Hi, Sarah,
I've heard claims for a petticoat attached to a boned bodice, but haven't
seen the documentation.  That being said...

There IS evidence for attaching petticoats to a bodice (unboned), as a way
to keep a petticoat up at the proper level, either under a jacket (there's
an ensemble like this in Bradfield), or perhaps to wear under a sheer
gown, like a slip.

I've heard good things about the La Mode Bagatelle pattern, so have fun!

Cheers,
Mara


On Mon, 8 Jul 2002, Sarah Lorraine wrote:

> Ah, how's this for luck?  I'm working on a friend's Regency ensemble
> and was just mulling over the corset issue yesterday.  Since we're
> focusing on the 1810-1815 time frame, I was rationalizing the long, hip
> covering corset as a likely canidate, but my friend was more interested
> in the possibility of not needing to wear a corset (she hasn't
> succumbed to gravity yet, so she probably could avoid the need for
> serious support).  But I ran across the La Mode Bagatalle's Regency
> Wardrobe pattern and was interested in the the "bodiced petticoat" as a
> possible compromise between no corset and some insurance against a
> saggy bodice.  Judging from the pictures on the package, it appears
> that the bodiced petticoat is similar to what Lydia wore in
> A&E's "Pride & Prejudice" where she's running about the house in her
> undies and collides with Mr. Collins... Is this what the bodiced
> petticoat is?  Is there any historical evidence for such a thing?  I've
> heard rave reviews about LMB's pattern, although it's on the pricey
> side, but I'd like to know the history of this garment.  Does anyone
> have any further info?  Thank you!
>
> Sarah
> http://www.elizabethanlady.com

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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 13:47:03 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

Take a look at this picture:

http://locutus.ucr.edu/~cathy/images/i-gillray/gill4.jpeg

The woman getting dressed appears to be wearing a VERY short shift -- all
one can see under her stays are the sleeves, and also her drawers.

A while back I saw a short Regency-period shift for sale on one of the
sites that sells antique clothing; the speculation was that it had been
shortened so that the fabric could be reused.  However -- I think the
bottom hem was finished.  Which makes me wonder if someone had been
wearing this shortened shift in the way the woman in the picture is
wearing it.  That would certainly decrease the bulk of petticoats worn.

Thoughts?

-- Mara


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In a message dated 7/7/02 3:18:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
athurman@cybergal.com writes:


> Just wondering if anyone else on this list is attending. 
> I've never been and I'm going alone, just wondering if there are any folks 
> I should try and meet up with. 
> Allison 
> 

I will be there Allison.

Kit

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 7/7/02 3:18:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time, athurman@cybergal.com writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Just wondering if anyone else on this list is attending. 
<BR>I've never been and I'm going alone, just wondering if there are any folks I should try and meet up with. 
<BR>Allison 
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>I will be there Allison.
<BR>
<BR>Kit</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 15:50:08 -0400
Status: RO

Bummer. Oh well, guess I shoulda checked my e-mail earlier <g>..
Thanks anyhoo!
Deb Rand


> Thanks to everyone volunteering to give my pattern a good home.  It's
> gone now!
> --sue

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From: "Kendra Van Cleave" <kendrav@attbi.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] nettlecloth (WAS linen weight?)
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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 18:20:15 -0700
Status: RO

For those who are interestd, I've scanned the images of the dress made of
nettlecloth.  Warning - these are large images!

http://demode.tweedlebop.com/images/1796_moden.jpg
http://demode.tweedlebop.com/images/1796_moden_back.jpg

- Kendra


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1790's corsets
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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 18:16:47 -0700
Status: RO

----- Original Message -----
From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 9:27 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1790's corsets


<snip>
> >ooo, that sounds interesting!  Any ideas where I might find these prints?
>
> costume books.

Wait, there are books about costume?

BLINKBLINK

;)

- Kendra



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Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 18:33:50 -0600
Status: RO

Hey! No fair! Leave the cute 30-something furnituremakers for those of
us who are still single!
--Sue, just your average josephine, who's more than willing to sacrifice
for you famous-researcher types <weg>

Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
> On Mon, 8 Jul 2002 kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:
> 
> > > At least I was hit by Genuine English stinging nettles, in a Genuine
> > > Medieval Churchyard. ;-)
> >
> > Something I'm sure you'd just as soon *not* repeat. ;)
> 
> Only if I can be assured that there will be a really cute 30-something
> furnituremaker handy who will take me to his back garden and rub dockweed
> on it for me ;-)
> 
> --Robin, willing to make personal sacrifices in the name of research
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jul  8 23:44:56 2002
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Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 14:24:48 -0700
Status: RO

CHOOSING A NEW BATHING SUIT Reportedly a true e-mail a woman wrote to 
her friend after shopping for a  bathing suit.  

I have just been through the annual pilgrimage of torture and  
humiliation known as buying a bathing suit. When I was a child in the 
1950's, the bathing suit for a woman with a mature figure was designed 
for   a woman with a mature, figure - boned, trussed and  reinforced, 
not so much   sewn as engineered. They were built to hold  back and 
uplift and they   did a   good job.     Today's stretch fabrics are 
designed for the pre-pubescent girl with a  figure carved from a potato 
chip. The mature woman has a choice -  she  can either front up at the 
maternity department and try on a   floral  suit with a skirt, coming 
away looking like a hippopotamus who escaped from Disney's Fantasia - or 
she can wander around every   run-of-the-mill department store trying to 
make a sensible choice from what amounts to a designer range of 
fluorescent rubber bands.  What choice did I have? I wandered around, 
made my sensible choice and  entered the chamber of horrors known as the 
fitting room. The first  thing I noticed was the extraordinary tensile 
strength of the   stretch   material.   The Lycra used in bathing 
costumes was developed, I believe, by NASA to launch small rockets from 
a slingshot, which give the added   bonus that if you manage to actually 
lever yourself into one, you are protected from shark attacks. The 
reason for this is that any shark taking a swipe at your passing midriff 
would immediately suffer whiplash.  I fought my way into the bathing 
suit, but as I twanged  the shoulder   strap in place, I gasped in 
horror - my bosom had disappeared!!   Eventually,   I found one bosom 
cowering under my  left armpit. It took a while to find the other.  At 
last I located it  flattened beside my seventh rib. The problem is that 
modern bathing suits have no bra cups. The mature woman is meant to wear 
her bosom spread across her chest like a speed hump.  I re-aligned my 
speed hump and lurched toward the mirror to take a full view assessment.

The bathing suit fit all right, but unfortunately, it only fit those 
bits of me willing to stay inside it. The rest of me oozed out 
rebelliously from top, bottom, and sides. I looked like a lump of play 
dough wearing undersized cling wrap.   As I tried to work out where all 
those extra bits had come from, the pre-pubescent sales  girl popped 
head through the curtains, "Oh There   you   are!" she said, admiring 
the bathing suit...I replied that I wasn't so sure and asked what else 
she had to show me. I tried on a cream crinkled one that made me look 
like a lump of masking tape, and a floral two piece which gave the 
appearance of an oversized napkin in a serviette ring.   I struggled 
into a pair of leopard skin bathers with ragged frill and came out 
looking like Tarzan's Jane pregnant with triplets and having a rough 
day. I tried on a black number with a midriff with such a high cut leg   
I thought I would have to wax my eyebrows to wear them.    Finally, I 
found a suit that fit...a two piece affair with shorts   style bottom 
and a loose blouse-type top. It was cheap, comfortable, and bulge 
friendly, so I bought it. When I got home, I read the label which said   
"Material may become transparent in water.     " I'm determined to wear 
it anyway...I'll just have to stay out of the water!



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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Danish translation?
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 01:26:37 +0200 (CEST)
Status: RO

> > Is there anyone on the list who reads Danish and would be willing to
> > translate some brief pattern notations for me? 

Kendra, I can give it a shot if you haven't had better offers yet. I'm 
not sure how much the terms differ between Danish and Norwegian, which is 
what I know, but there's no harm in finding out. :)

> and even sent me the Swedish and Finnish ones also (wish I 
> had a Norwegian one, dunno if there is one). 

Judy - I don't know either, if you find one please post! Failing 
that, feel free to ask if there's anyting specific you're wondering 
about, and I'll translate as far as my vocabulary allows. :) 


Ingrid
-- 
I'd give my right arm to be ambidextrous!

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Flax
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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 13:57:29 -0700
Status: RO

At 11:30 AM -0500 7/8/02, seamstrix@juno.com wrote:
>
>  At the end of
>it's life cycle, the flax would be pulled up by the roots to maintain as
>long a fiber as possible and then 'retted' which entailed allowing the
>stalks to lie in shallow, moving water until the outer stem rotted off.
>I'm not sure how long this would take, but while it was going on
>apparently the water was not suitable for drinking or other human
>consumption.

Assuming anyone would _want_ to -- I'm told it smells quite vile.

-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] nettlecloth (WAS linen weight?)
In-Reply-To: <003d01c226e6$c7ca1b40$befc8218@WERNTO> "from Kendra Van Cleave
 at Jul 8, 2002 06:20:15 pm"
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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 20:31:45 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

I love that back detailing - that is just so gorgeous!


> For those who are interestd, I've scanned the images of the dress made of
> nettlecloth.  Warning - these are large images!
> 
> http://demode.tweedlebop.com/images/1796_moden.jpg
> http://demode.tweedlebop.com/images/1796_moden_back.jpg
> 
> - Kendra
> 
> 
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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 22:37:54 -0500
Status: RO

Well, ya know what my solution would be? SURGERY!!!!! :)

Ches

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lou Demas" <ldemas@lanset.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 4:24 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Sort of costume


> CHOOSING A NEW BATHING SUIT Reportedly a true e-mail a woman wrote to 
> her friend after shopping for a  bathing suit.  


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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 21:11:07 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

i'm all for esther williams suits.

or body paint.  


> Well, ya know what my solution would be? SURGERY!!!!! :)
> 
> Ches
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Lou Demas" <ldemas@lanset.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 4:24 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Sort of costume
> 
> 
> > CHOOSING A NEW BATHING SUIT Reportedly a true e-mail a woman wrote to 
> > her friend after shopping for a  bathing suit.  
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 22:37:55 -0700
Status: RO

Ingrid,

Thanks so much for volunteering to translate my pattern!  Bjarne, he of
amazing costume and embroidery skills, now has proved he has fabulous
translation skills as well!  I am set to go thanks to his services.

Thanks!

- Kendra



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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 04:07:29 EDT
Status: RO


--part1_9.2aa28f09.2a5bf3c1_boundary
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My apologies to those who receive this posting twice.  

Looking through Italian Renaissance Interiors I came across a picture of a 
Birth (may be the Virgin; may be John the Baptist: book says Virgin; website 
says Baptist) by Giusto de' Menabuoi in the Cathedral Baptistry in Padua 
(1376-78).  I got very excited...there is a woman wearing a sleeveless 
chemise that is belted under the breasts.  I would normally assume that she 
is the wetnurse, but she's wearing a balzo, although that may indicate that 
the painter assumed that the Baptist (or Virgin) would have a noble wetnurse.

There is also a servant standing in the back wearing a shortsleeved chemise 
with a sleeveless gown similar to a gonnella over top of it.

I would love to have feedback and comments on this picture.

Nancy Stengel Ulmer
(Maddalena Salutati)


<A HREF="http://easyweb.easynet.co.uk/giorgio.vasari/giusto/pic18.htm">Sleeveless Chemise</A>

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">My apologies to those who receive this posting twice.&nbsp; <BR>
<BR>
Looking through Italian Renaissance Interiors I came across a picture of a Birth (may be the Virgin; may be John the Baptist: book says Virgin; website says Baptist) by Giusto de' Menabuoi in the Cathedral Baptistry in Padua (1376-78).&nbsp; I got very excited...there is a woman wearing a sleeveless chemise that is belted under the breasts.&nbsp; I would normally assume that she is the wetnurse, but she's wearing a balzo, although that may indicate that the painter assumed that the Baptist (or Virgin) would have a noble wetnurse.<BR>
<BR>
There is also a servant standing in the back wearing a shortsleeved chemise with a sleeveless gown similar to a gonnella over top of it.<BR>
<BR>
I would love to have feedback and comments on this picture.<BR>
<BR>
Nancy Stengel Ulmer<BR>
(Maddalena Salutati)<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<A HREF="http://easyweb.easynet.co.uk/giorgio.vasari/giusto/pic18.htm">Sleeveless Chemise</A></FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1790's corsets
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Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 09:23:03 +0000 (GMT)
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> If you go to http://www.faintingcouch.com/2542.html they have a 1790's
> corset for sale with some very good photographs. At $3500 I can't see
> many people being able to afford it tho'.

Hi Lissa,

It's interesting to read the bit that says;

"lined with what appears to be its original non   manufactured 
cloth."  

The close-ups of that cloth look *exactly* like the teatowels we 
have at home for drying the dishes... I wonder if that's what they 
mean by "non manufactured"...<GGGG>


Teddy
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Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 02:23:37 -0700
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--------------060805050307030401050005
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Has anyone else try this website?  I wasn't able to get anywhere with 
it.  I am quite eager to take a look at the beads.

Roscelin

Frojel Gotlandica wrote:

>
> Hi Folks
> OK the bead CD is now up on Professor Carlssons site.
> For those interested have a look at :-
> http://www16.aname.net/~arkeodok/
> First in a series from Gotland University's Archaeology Department.
> One nice difference is that they should be in colour as opposed to
> different gray textures as in many of the archaeology books.
> Gotland is where over 80% of the Viking age finds in Sweden come
> from. It was a major trading centre in the Baltic up until the
> Battle of Visby.
> Cheers
> Sandy
> Fröjel Gotlandica Viking Re-enactment Society.
> http://www.frojel.com/
> frojel@frojel.com



--------------060805050307030401050005
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
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<html>
<head>
</head>
<body>
Has anyone else try this website? &nbsp;I wasn't able to get anywhere with it.
&nbsp;I am quite eager to take a look at the beads.<br>
<br>
Roscelin<br>
<br>
Frojel Gotlandica wrote:<br>
<blockquote type="cite" cite="mid:200207072303.g67N3bOW018436@grape.dcsi.net.au"><font color="0000ff"><u><font face="Times New Roman" default="FACE"><font size="3" pointsize="12" default="SIZE"><br>
  </font></font></u><font face="Times New Roman" default="FACE"><font size="3" pointsize="12" default="SIZE"><font color="000000" default="COLOR">
 Hi Folks<br>
 OK the bead CD is now up on Professor Carlssons site.<br>
 For those interested have a look at :- <font color="0000ff"><u><br>
 <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www16.aname.net/~arkeodok/">http://www16.aname.net/~arkeodok/</a></u><font color="000000" default="COLOR"><br>
 First in a series from Gotland University's Archaeology Department.<br>
 One nice difference is that they should be in colour as opposed to<br>
 different gray textures as in many of the archaeology books.<br>
 Gotland is where over 80% of the Viking age finds in Sweden come<br>
 from. It was a major trading centre in the Baltic up until the<br>
 Battle of Visby.<br>
 Cheers<br>
 Sandy<font color="000000" default="COLOR"><br>
  <LEFT><font face="Times New Roman" color="#000001" size="3" pointsize="12" default="ALL">
 Fr&ouml;jel&nbsp;Gotlandica&nbsp;Viking&nbsp;Re-enactment&nbsp;Society.<br>
 <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.frojel.com/">http://www.frojel.com/</a><br>
 <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:frojel@frojel.com">frojel@frojel.com</a></font></LEFT></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></blockquote>
  <br>
  </body>
  </html>

--------------060805050307030401050005--

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 11:02:30 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

Hi All,

I finally got some photos of the Officer's uniform coat and breeches and
waistcoat I have been working on so madly in the past weeks for ben.
Unfortunately he had his coat closed and you can't see the beautiful red silk
and gold brocade waistcoat. *laughs* I will take more photos though soon.

http://arts-humanities.cant.ac.uk/Temp/Hounslow/

My mantua and fontange was made by Ninya Mikhaila, costumier to Hampton Court
amongst other places. Mine and Ben's wigs were made by Derek Easton (again,
like the 1660s one) our shoes by Sarah Juniper (all our shoes are). All my lace
is 19th century lace, some handmade venetian gros needlepoint (lace stomacher,
tucker and wrist frills), which I got from Marla Mallett, textile collector;
the lappets of the fontange are 19th c. chemical lace lappets from a cape, the
dark red silk ribbon is Victorian too. The belt buckle is a genuine one from
1700, a mopped back to shine meal detector find. All of these last items are
from eBay. The linen and silk cream brocade of the petticoat is an actual
period pattern taht was woven as 'wallpaper' for a stately period home here in
England and I got the narrow remnants, 10 meters of it. The black silk and
silver metal brocade of the actual mantua is from Russia, and the gold real
metal braid edging is from Germany. All the other silks and silk brocades are
from merchants in the UK.
Ben's coat is made from scarlet superfine cloth from Hainsworth, which is the
actual same that is used by the Ministry of Defense for dress and parade
uniforms. A beautiful beautiful cloth, but a pain to sew, it is so tightly
woven. The silver lace is the B&S pattern for state livery, it's mylar not 90%
silver because te latter was impossible to get, and I got it from Hand's, the
oldest established (and still going) goldlacemen in London, supliers to the
Ministry of defense and the Royal household too. The coat is lined with scarlet
taffeta silk. The early tricorne hat (rolled up, wired and NOT folded) with
silver lacing was made by Jane Smith, hatmaker in London, who usually works for
the big theatre companies like the National Theatre. The brocade of Ben's
waistcoat is from Russia too, and is linen lined.

There you are, a big long explanation of what you see on the pix :-)

Hope you enjoy, something completely else for once!

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume books (WAS: 1790's corsets)
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> <snip>
> > >ooo, that sounds interesting!  Any ideas where I might find these
> > >prints?
> >
> > costume books.
> 
> Wait, there are books about costume?
> 
> BLINKBLINK

Nice idea, but there wouldn't be enough interest in them to make it 
worth doing a print run - any publisher will tell you *that*!.....<GRIN!>


Teddy
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From: The Duchess <duchess@bustles-and-bows.co.uk>
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Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 11:34:39 +0100
Status: RO

At 09:23 AM 7/9/2002 +0000, you wrote:
> > If you go to http://www.faintingcouch.com/2542.html
>It's interesting to read the bit that says;
>
>"lined with what appears to be its original non   manufactured
>cloth."
>
>The close-ups of that cloth look *exactly* like the teatowels we
>have at home for drying the dishes... I wonder if that's what they
>mean by "non manufactured"...<GGGG>

<chuckle> I see what you mean! When I looked at it I wondered but my 
knowledge of period materials is sketchy at best so I couldn't say if it 
was OK or not.

Lissa

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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] nettlecloth (WAS linen weight?)
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 07:55:42 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

Oooh... Thank you, Kendra!  It's lovely....

-- Mara


On Mon, 8 Jul 2002, Kendra Van Cleave wrote:

> For those who are interestd, I've scanned the images of the dress made of
> nettlecloth.  Warning - these are large images!
>
> http://demode.tweedlebop.com/images/1796_moden.jpg
> http://demode.tweedlebop.com/images/1796_moden_back.jpg
>
> - Kendra
>
>
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 08:00:11 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

What are Esther Williams suits?

Cut-off Levis and a tank top work pretty well ;D


On Mon, 8 Jul 2002, Heather Meadows wrote:

> i'm all for esther williams suits.
>
> or body paint.
>
>
> > Well, ya know what my solution would be? SURGERY!!!!! :)
> >
> > Ches
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Lou Demas" <ldemas@lanset.com>
> > To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 4:24 PM
> > Subject: [h-cost] Sort of costume
> >
> >
> > > CHOOSING A NEW BATHING SUIT Reportedly a true e-mail a woman wrote to
> > > her friend after shopping for a  bathing suit.
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 08:03:47 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO





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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Jul  9 08:29:38 2002
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 08:05:03 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

(pouts)  I wish we could get such wonderful tea towels here in the States!

Seriously, I've been keeping an eye out for good checked linen cloth, and
while some good 18th c. checks can be found, they're not very common.  How
unfair that you're using them to wipe dishes!  <g>

-- Mara


On Tue, 9 Jul 2002, Teddy wrote:
> Hi Lissa,
>
> It's interesting to read the bit that says;
>
> "lined with what appears to be its original non   manufactured
> cloth."
>
> The close-ups of that cloth look *exactly* like the teatowels we
> have at home for drying the dishes... I wonder if that's what they
> mean by "non manufactured"...<GGGG>
>
>
> Teddy

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Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 07:11:56 -0600
Status: RO

Holy crap! That's hardly small! I think the largest city in my whole
state is only a little over 100,000.
--sue

jane@williams.nildram.co.uk wrote:
> 
> Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote :
> 
> > > > I grew up on the outer edge of a  fairly small town, within a
> > > > few minutes walk of open downland.
> > >
> > > You know what's really weird? I grew up on a different outer edge of
> > > the same small town
> >
> > Strange that we didn't meet until a few years ago when we were
> > both living in different towns.
> 
> Maybe it's not that small a town? Pop 169,000, a web-search tells me.
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 14:14:11 BST
Status: RO

> jane@williams.nildram.co.uk
> wrote:
> > 
> > Teddy teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
> wrote :
> > 
> > > > > I grew up on the outer edge of a  fairly small town, within a
> > > > > few minutes walk of open downland.
> > > >
> > > > You know what's really weird? I grew up on a different outer edge of
> > > > the same small town
> > >
> > > Strange that we didn't meet until a few years ago when we were
> > > both living in different towns.
> > 
> > Maybe it's not that small a town? Pop 169,000, a web-search tells me.

Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote :

> Holy crap! That's hardly small! I think the largest city in my whole
> state is only a little over 100,000.
> --sue

I suppose we tend to compare it with London, just down the road. Population of around 7 million or so. Luton certainly isn't a city, although as towns go it's quite big.

Or maybe the UK just tends to do things bigger than the USA...?
no, maybe not!






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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 14:17:21 BST
Status: RO

Next week I'm off for a tour of southern Germany and Austria: route as yet unplanned. Anyone got any suggestions as to museums and so on that I really shouldn't miss?






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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 14:20:53 +0100 (BST)
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 --- jane@williams.nildram.co.uk wrote: > Next week I'm off for a tour of
southern Germany and Austria: route as yet
> unplanned. Anyone got any suggestions as to museums and so on that I really
> shouldn't miss?

It depends in what you are interested. Vienna is an absolute must of course, so
many museums. Are you going along the Rhine? The castles are stunning, lovely
smalish town museums. A lot on Roman and a fantastic museum on the Franks in
Krefeld Gellep.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 09:20:24 EDT
Status: RO

In a message dated 7/7/2002 7:02:37 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
kendrav@attbi.com writes:

<< Can anyone point me to any other sources that might help me fill in the 
gaps
 between 1790 and 1820?  Does _Corsets & Crinolines_ touch on this era?
  >>
This is the $64 question.  I don't think we yet know a whole lot about the 
transition period.  Alden O'Brien, curator of costume, dolls, and toys, at 
the DAR Museum in Washington, is actively pursuing this question, as are a 
few others--Lorina at 5 Rivers Chapmanry comes to mind.  As to published 
sources, there really aren't any.
Ann Wass
History/Museum Specialist
Riversdale House Museum
Riverdale Park MD annbwass@aol.com
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From: Judy Mitchell <judymitch@oldwaylane.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Norwegian glassary (was: Danish translation?)
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Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 09:27:07 -0400
Status: RO

Ingrid G. Storrø wrote:
> Judy - I don't know either, if you find one please post! Failing 
> that, feel free to ask if there's anyting specific you're wondering 
> about, and I'll translate as far as my vocabulary allows. 

Hi Ingrid-
	I appreciate that, but right now I'm not involved in anything 
(except packing all of my sewing and assorted stuff and 
moving my office!). As I understand it, the language 
glossary sheets are tucked into the Butterick patterns when 
you buy them at the store. So anyone buying the patterns in 
Sweden gets the English - Swedish sheets everytime, likewise 
the Danish. do you not get insert sheets with Butterick 
patterns? Does Butterick not sell in Norway (odd, if they do 
in Denmark, Sweden & Finland!)? I didn't understand why 
Norwegian got left out of the pack! Seems peculiar to me. 
Maybe they think that since the vowels are the same it's the 
same language (Swedish looks obviously different)?

	-Judy Mitchell

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] small towns ( was Nettles (WAS:linen weight?))
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 14:23:30 +0100
Status: RO

No Luton is NOT a small town in English standards except maybe for
Londoners.  Not anyone normal ;)

Mel

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Austrian/German holiday: suggestions?
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If you make it as far as Nuernberg plan lots of time for the Germanische 
Nationalmuseum there.  It is fabulous!!!!!!
Elisabeth

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>If you make it as far as Nuernberg plan lots of time for the Germanische Nationalmuseum there. &nbsp;It is fabulous!!!!!!
<BR>Elisabeth</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another Regency question
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 09:47:33 EDT
Status: RO

In a message dated 7/8/2002 1:56:38 PM Eastern Daylight Time, lindo@radix.net 
writes:

<< A while back I saw a short Regency-period shift for sale on one of the
 sites that sells antique clothing; the speculation was that it had been
 shortened so that the fabric could be reused.  However -- I think the
 bottom hem was finished.  Which makes me wonder if someone had been
 wearing this shortened shift in the way the woman in the picture is
 wearing it.  That would certainly decrease the bulk of petticoats worn.
  >>
Mark Hutter, the tailor at Colonial Williamsburg, gave a presentation at 
Gadsby's Tavern, where he presented the idea that the short shift was 
developed to wear with pantaloons.  Think about it--if you are wearing a hip 
length corset and drawers, a long shift would really get in the way.  This 
is, though, another one of those things that we just don't know enough about 
yet.
Ann Wass
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 14:52:15 BST
Status: RO

N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote :

> --- jane@williams.nildram.co.uk
> wrote: > Next week I'm off for a tour of
> southern Germany and Austria: route as yet
> > unplanned. Anyone got any suggestions as to museums and so on that I
> really
> > shouldn't miss?
> 
> It depends in what you are interested. 

Life, the Universe, and Everything....

no, seriously, up to about 1600s, costuming and cookery and maps and swords and... lots of things...

> Vienna is an absolute must of course,

It is? We'd been thinking we might not get that far. Replan... Munich seems to have a lot of museums, the question is which ones we'd want to go to. Innsbruck ilkewise is mentioned as being a "must", but with little idea as to just *why*.


> Are you going along the Rhine? The castles are stunning,
> lovely smalish town museums. 

Yes, we're having our first night at Bacharach and working south from there. But we "did" the Rhine a couple of years ago, so concentrating on things further south this time.


> A lot on Roman and a fantastic museum on the Franks in
> Krefeld Gellep.

hmm, where's that? Google has so far found me no maps, but a Spangenhelm, which sounds good. Multimap says... oh, right up there. A bit further north than we were going this time. Shame: I'll have to remember that for another year.







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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 08:54:39 -0500
Status: RO

Hi Nicole!


I love seeing the less common eras of costuming! Your mantua looks great.
Can we get some detail shots of the laces on the gentleman's coat? Some
detail shots of your lace would be great as well!


Karen

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Austrian/German holiday: suggestions?
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 15:02:03 BST
Status: RO

BOSTONHAHN@aol.com wrote :

> If you make it as far as Nuernberg plan lots of time for the Germanische Nationalmuseum there. &nbsp;It is fabulous!!!!!!
> Elisabeth

Ooh, just took a look at their web site. That's on the list! Lots of other museums, too, and I have a husband with a thing about WW2, so he won't be arguing too much.

Thanks!





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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Austrian/German holiday: suggestions?
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 15:05:11 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- jane@williams.nildram.co.uk wrote: > 

> no, seriously, up to about 1600s, costuming and cookery and maps and swords
> and... lots of things...

hmmm.. up to 1600, so that means some of my favourites don't apply.

> > Vienna is an absolute must of course,
> 
> It is? We'd been thinking we might not get that far. 

nope, not if you're not interested in the 18th century. Vienna is THE place to
go for the 18th in my opinion.

Replan... Munich seems
> to have a lot of museums, the question is which ones we'd want to go to.

would be a good idea to ask alexa from marquise.de she lives in Munich.

> Innsbruck ilkewise is mentioned as being a "must", but with little idea as to
> just *why*.

sheesh I can't remember, I went to Innsbruck but I really can't remember. Are
you going to Salzburg? Beautiful place, though mainly 18th again.
> 
> hmm, where's that? Google has so far found me no maps, but a Spangenhelm,
> which sounds good. Multimap says... oh, right up there. A bit further north
> than we were going this time. Shame: I'll have to remember that for another
> year.

Krefeld is between Aachen and Dueseldorf, near Cologne.

Nicole - coming from Aachen

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Photos of 1700 costumes from the event this weekend
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 15:05:55 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- seamstrix@juno.com wrote: > Hi Nicole!
> 
> 
> I love seeing the less common eras of costuming! Your mantua looks great.
> Can we get some detail shots of the laces on the gentleman's coat? Some
> detail shots of your lace would be great as well!
> 
> 
> Karen

I wanted to have detail shots but I ended up with a heatsrokes on Sunday so
couldn't take anymore photos. *pout* I will get more though!

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 10:15:53 -0400
Status: RO

I've occasionally seen really, really inexpensive checked and striped 
linen at Phoenix Textiles online ( 
http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/ ). I got a bolt of a stripe 
last year and it's very nice. I have vague plans for a middle-class 
regency day dress, and also want to try real linen sheets! I know a 
year or 2 ago they had a very similar check to the one used in the 
corset.

-Amanda
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 02:20:06 +1200
Status: RO

> I finally got some photos of the Officer's uniform coat and breeches and
> waistcoat I have been working on so madly in the past weeks for ben.
> Unfortunately he had his coat closed and you can't see the beautiful red
silk
> and gold brocade waistcoat. *laughs* I will take more photos though soon.
>
> http://arts-humanities.cant.ac.uk/Temp/Hounslow/


It's so funny, in late 1997 I was cast as Lady Wishfort in the Way of the
World for some resoration comedy scenes.. and while I was hunting bits to
make a costume (really quickie one as *no one* else did anyhting thing and I
would stick out like a terribley sore thumb) I started to absolutely
*loathe* that particular style.

But then I found some mantua patterns and really lovely examples.. and
decided it was't the fashions persay but the way they were presented in
print.

Didn't really like the horizonatla lace flounce things happening.

But now of course I have plans on making my own wool matua;)  o it's funny
how we can be cyclic in our own preferences in fashion...

And of course your manua and ensemble help in seeing the more classy side of
the style;)

Thanks for sharing:)

michaela


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Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 15:17:27 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> > > Maybe it's not that small a town? Pop 169,000, a web-search tells
> > > me.
> 
> Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote :
> 
> > Holy crap! That's hardly small! I think the largest city in my whole
> > state is only a little over 100,000. --sue
> 
> I suppose we tend to compare it with London, just down the road.
> Population of around 7 million or so. Luton certainly isn't a city,
> although as towns go it's quite big.
> 
> Or maybe the UK just tends to do things bigger than the USA...?
> no, maybe not!

Well, when I used the term "small town" I was referring to 
*Dunstable* which is considerably smaller than Luton (even though 
it has now merged onto one side of Luton) and I call any town that I 
can walk from one side to the other in half an hour or less, small.



Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Austrian/German holiday: suggestions?
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 15:22:14 BST
Status: RO

N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote :

> > Innsbruck ilkewise is mentioned as being a "must", but with little idea as
> to
> > just *why*.
> 
> sheesh I can't remember, I went to Innsbruck but I really can't remember.

Possibly "because it's pretty" covers it?


> Are
> you going to Salzburg? Beautiful place, though mainly 18th again.

Probably. Mozart is my favourite composer, so I expect I'll take a look.


 
> Krefeld is between Aachen and Dueseldorf, near Cologne.

(sigh) came right past it two years ago.






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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 15:28:38 BST
Status: RO

Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote :

> Well, when I used the term "small town" I was referring to 
> *Dunstable* which is considerably smaller than Luton (even though 
> it has now merged onto one side of Luton) and I call any town that I 
> can walk from one side to the other in half an hour or less, small.

Ah, this explains it all: to me, Dunstable is a suburb of Luton. Just like Stopsley, where I grew up. And to get this at least slightly back on topic, both close enough to the town centre to be linked to the Luton hat-making industry, I think?





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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 07:52:49 -0700
Status: RO

Nancy Stengel Ulmer wrote: 

<< Looking through Italian Renaissance Interiors I came across a picture of a Birth (may be the Virgin; may be John the Baptist: book says Virgin; website says Baptist) by Giusto de' Menabuoi in the Cathedral Baptistry in Padua (1376-78).  I got very excited...there is a woman wearing a sleeveless chemise that is belted under the breasts.  I would normally assume that she is the wetnurse, but she's wearing a balzo, although that may indicate that the painter assumed that the Baptist (or Virgin) would have a noble wetnurse. >>

Wow - great find, Nancy!  Now I'll have to rush home and dig up my copy and take a very close look.  

I also found a literary reference in Boccaccio's _Elegy of Lady Fiammetta_.  I don't have it with me at work, but there's a scene where she and Panfilo are at the equivalent of a resort town and she talks about the ladies wearing silky tunics with bare arms that revealed a view of their cleavage when the ladies bent to pick up shellfish (?) out of the water.  I'll add the book to the list of things to dig up and bring in tomorrow.  (I'm also working to check the Italian to make sure that it is not a translation error of some sort.)

I may be able to document that sleeveless chemise in Italy yet!  Woo-hoo!

Colleen  

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Norwegian glassary (was: Danish translation?)
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 17:34:05 +0200 (CEST)
Status: RO

On Tue, 9 Jul 2002, Judy Mitchell wrote:
> As I understand it, the language 
> glossary sheets are tucked into the Butterick patterns when 
> you buy them at the store. So anyone buying the patterns in 
> Sweden gets the English - Swedish sheets everytime, likewise 
> the Danish. do you not get insert sheets with Butterick 
> patterns? Does Butterick not sell in Norway (odd, if they do 
> in Denmark, Sweden & Finland!)? 

Hm, I don't buy a lot of commercial patterns, so I don't really know if 
you can get Butterick patterns here. I'll check if I can remember when 
I'm somewhere that sells patterns. 

> I didn't understand why 
> Norwegian got left out of the pack! Seems peculiar to me. 
> Maybe they think that since the vowels are the same it's the 
> same language (Swedish looks obviously different)?

I'm not sure if this is the reason, but it's fairly usual for Norwegian 
to be left out of multilanguage contexts, like for example the back of 
shampoo bottles that are sold in different Nordic countries.  Heh, lame 
example, but the first thing that springs to mind. :) In my experience 
most Norwegians read both Swedish and Danish fairly well, even though 
the vocabulary differs between the languages. Personally I read Danish 
better than Swedish (but English better than either), and understand 
verbal Swedish far better than Danish. My guess would be that since 
Norway has a much smaller population than both other Scandinavian 
countries, it may be simply a matter of money - why go to the extra cost 
when it is assumed that we understand the other two languages anyway. 
But this is speculation on my part - for all I know, there may be a 
Norwegian glossary sheet and they just forgot to include it in your 
pack. :)

Ingrid

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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 17:42:54 +0200 (CEST)
Status: RO

On Tue, 9 Jul 2002, N Kipar wrote:
> > 
> > hmm, where's that? Google has so far found me no maps, but a Spangenhelm,
> > which sounds good. Multimap says... oh, right up there. A bit further north
> > than we were going this time. Shame: I'll have to remember that for another
> > year.
> 
> Krefeld is between Aachen and Dueseldorf, near Cologne.
> 
> Nicole - coming from Aachen

Aah, speaking of Düsseldorf - I'm going back for a few days in October 
to visit old haunts. My family lived there for two years, gaah, over 12 
years ago, but my I was quite young then and my costume interest not 
developed. So I have no idea if the city has any particularly good 
costume related  museums or any really good fabric stores. Any ideas? I 
need to shop and marvel! :D

Ingrid

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Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 13:14:05 -0400
Status: RO


Nicole, as always I am so inspired by your photos! It is so wonderful to see
people doing everything perfectly!

Gail Finke


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Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 10:32:00 -0700
Status: RO

Help!  Can anyone refer me to a book with clear instructions on how to
construct a button fly?  

I've been through all my sewing books and I'm starting to get really
frustrated.  Esepecially with books titled things like "The Complete Book
of Tailoring" that don't even *mention* menswear.  It seems a rather large
area to ignore, after all.

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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 "from Kevin & Mara Riley at Jul 9, 2002 08:00:11 am"
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 11:22:17 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

She was a 40's star and Olympic swimmer who now produces a 
line of 40's style swimsuits that are very elegant.  And expensive.
I've been drooling over them for years.


> What are Esther Williams suits?
> 
> Cut-off Levis and a tank top work pretty well ;D
> 
> 
> On Mon, 8 Jul 2002, Heather Meadows wrote:
> 
> > i'm all for esther williams suits.
> >
> > or body paint.
> >
> >
> > > Well, ya know what my solution would be? SURGERY!!!!! :)
> > >
> > > Ches
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Lou Demas" <ldemas@lanset.com>
> > > To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> > > Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 4:24 PM
> > > Subject: [h-cost] Sort of costume
> > >
> > >
> > > > CHOOSING A NEW BATHING SUIT Reportedly a true e-mail a woman wrote to
> > > > her friend after shopping for a  bathing suit.
> > >
> > >
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Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 11:42:42 -0700
Status: RO


>Looking through Italian Renaissance Interiors I came across a picture of a 
>Birth (may be the Virgin; may be John the Baptist: book says Virgin; 
>website says Baptist) by Giusto de' Menabuoi in the Cathedral Baptistry in 
>Padua (1376-78).  I got very excited...there is a woman wearing a 
>sleeveless chemise that is belted under the breasts.  I would normally 
>assume that she is the wetnurse, but she's wearing a balzo, although that 
>may indicate that the painter assumed that the Baptist (or Virgin) would 
>have a noble wetnurse.
>
>There is also a servant standing in the back wearing a shortsleeved 
>chemise with a sleeveless gown similar to a gonnella over top of it.
>
>I would love to have feedback and comments on this picture.

Koehler has a photo of a real one of these in his book.  I don't remember 
the period he said it was, but it's even in the Dover reprint.


Kayta

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Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 11:44:25 -0700
Status: RO

I never got the original post. Whazup?

>What are Esther Williams suits?
>
>Cut-off Levis and a tank top work pretty well ;D
>
>
>On Mon, 8 Jul 2002, Heather Meadows wrote:
>
> > i'm all for esther williams suits.
> >
> > or body paint.
> >
> >
> > > Well, ya know what my solution would be? SURGERY!!!!! :)
> > >
> > > Ches
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Lou Demas" <ldemas@lanset.com>
> > > To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> > > Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 4:24 PM
> > > Subject: [h-cost] Sort of costume
> > >
> > >
> > > > CHOOSING A NEW BATHING SUIT Reportedly a true e-mail a woman wrote to
> > > > her friend after shopping for a  bathing suit.
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Kayta

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seeking Button Fly instructions
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Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 11:49:35 -0700
Status: RO

You might start by putting a pair of Levis 501s next to a pair of regular 
trousers, and looking at both at the same time.  Or you might go to a 
vintage clothing place and looking at an original.  And there must be 
repro-patterns out there, for less than the price of a book.

>Help!  Can anyone refer me to a book with clear instructions on how to
>construct a button fly?
>
>I've been through all my sewing books and I'm starting to get really
>frustrated.  Esepecially with books titled things like "The Complete Book
>of Tailoring" that don't even *mention* menswear.  It seems a rather large
>area to ignore, after all.
>
>Margo
>"One Tough Costumer"
>
>
>See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Kayta

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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 13:00:55 -0600
Status: RO


	http://www.esther-williams.com/swimwear.htm

					...eliz
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Thread-Topic: [h-cost] Picture of Sleeveless Italian Chemise
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Subject: [h-cost] Sleeveless Chemise in Koehler
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 12:01:19 -0700
Status: RO

Katya wrote:

<<Koehler has a photo of a real one of these in his book.  I don't remember 
the period he said it was, but it's even in the Dover reprint.>>

Since Koehler is considered a dubious source by many, I've tracked the picture and the information from his book back to the original source that he obtained it from.
The book is _Fünf Bücher Deutscher Hausaltertümer von den Ältesten Geschichtlichen Zeiten Bis Zum 16. Jahrhundert_ by Moriz Heyne, published in Leipzig in 1903.  The picture in Koehler is the exact same picture shown in the Heyne book.  The chemise was found in 1867 in Castle Rhanis (Burg Rhanis) in Thuringen in Germany with other items that were dated from the early 14th century.

The most recent information I have from the curator at the museum at Castle Rhanis is that the chemise is no longer there.  The castle was in private hands prior to and during WWII and from the information that I have so far, the Russians took everything that was in the castle with them when they came through at the end of WWII.  I have a contact checking to see if, by some miracle, it survived to make it into a Moscow museum, but no news so far.

Best regards,

Colleen
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seeking Button Fly instructions
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 14:01:52 -0500
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Smoke and Fire have a button fly pants pattern available for $11.00. 


Karen

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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 12:19:28 -0700
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> Koehler has a photo of a real one of these in his book.  I don't
> remember the period he said it was, but it's even in the Dover
> reprint.

That's the one which sparked off this discussion. Colleen had been 
trying to track it down but evidently it was carried off by invading 
Russians in WWII. It's a 14th C German chemise. There are also 
the Bohemian "bath house girls" but Colleen is looking for 
specifically Italian 14th century sleeveless chemises.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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A friend of mine has put in a request for pictures of enlisted personnel,
too <g>.

-- Mara


On Tue, 9 Jul 2002 seamstrix@juno.com wrote:

> Hi Nicole!
>
>
> I love seeing the less common eras of costuming! Your mantua looks great.
> Can we get some detail shots of the laces on the gentleman's coat? Some
> detail shots of your lace would be great as well!
>
>
> Karen
>
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 --- Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net> wrote: > A friend of mine has put in
a request for pictures of enlisted personnel,
> too <g>.
> 
> -- Mara

personnel? *grins* red- or blackhaired?

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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--=====================_41066938==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Sorry for the massive cross-post, but Buny's running an email sale and I=20
get to handle it!!! This is good for the month of July ONLY, so hurry and=20
get yours!!!!.  Minimum order is 5 yards, shipping INCLUDED in the price=20
(where else are you going to find a deal like that???):

ACETATE:  $40 for 5 yards, $60 for 10 yards, and $6/yd including shipping=20
for every additional yard after 10.

PANNE: $30 for 5 yards, $50 for 10 yards, and $5/yd including shipping for=
=20
each additional yard over 10.

COLORS:
black
burgundy
hunter green
royal blue
navy
purple
red

PayPal preferred, and it ships the soonest!  Address for PayPal is=20
velvet4sale@aol.com.  The website where you can see these fabrics is=20
http://www.velvetfabric.com, but this sale is email only, not on the site=20
at all!! When you write to her, the subject of the email should say "Vik=20
sent me" or "Email sale".  If you have to send any other form of Paymant,=20
send it to:

Kay Cushing
15735 Garfield Ave. Suite 36
Paramount, CA 90723

For more great deals and to be informed about future sales, sign up for her=
=20
mailing list!  New newsletter subscribers get a discount coupon that can be=
=20
used on her website in the month of July!

Me?  I'm off to order more velvet!!!

Vik, very very very happy customer... what colors did I need again?  oh=20
yeah....


=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=
=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=
=B0`=B0=BA=A4
Lady Victoria's Castle Closet:
Custom Clothing and Fine Renaissance Designs
http://bluedragyn.net/~lvcc/index2.html
Gallery: http://bluedragyn.net/~lvcc/castle-creations

15% discount to List Members, PayPal accepted

--=====================_41066938==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
Sorry for the massive cross-post, but Buny's running an email sale and I
get to handle it!!! This is good for the month of July ONLY, so hurry and
get yours!!!!.&nbsp; Minimum order is 5 yards, shipping INCLUDED in the
price (where else are you going to find a deal like that???):<br>
<br>
ACETATE:&nbsp; $40 for 5 yards, $60 for 10 yards, and $6/yd including
shipping for every additional yard after 10.<br>
<br>
PANNE: $30 for 5 yards, $50 for 10 yards, and $5/yd including shipping
for each additional yard over 10.<br>
<br>
COLORS:<br>
black<br>
burgundy<br>
hunter green<br>
royal blue <br>
navy <br>
purple<br>
red<br>
<br>
PayPal preferred, and it ships the soonest!&nbsp; Address for PayPal is
velvet4sale@aol.com.&nbsp; The website where you can see these fabrics is
<a href=3D"http://www.velvetfabric.com/" eudora=3D"autourl">http://www.velve=
tfabric.com</a>,
but this sale is email only, not on the site at all!! When you write to
her, the subject of the email should say &quot;Vik sent me&quot; or
&quot;Email sale&quot;.&nbsp; If you have to send any other form of
Paymant, send it to:<br>
<br>
Kay Cushing <br>
15735 Garfield Ave. Suite 36 <br>
Paramount, CA 90723<br>
<br>
For more great deals and to be informed about future sales, sign up for
her mailing list!&nbsp; New newsletter subscribers get a discount coupon
that can be used on her website in the month of July!&nbsp; <br>
<br>
Me?&nbsp; I'm off to order more velvet!!!<br>
<br>
Vik, very very very happy customer... what colors did I need again?&nbsp;
oh yeah....<br>
<br>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
<div align=3D"center">
=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=
=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=
=B0`=B0=BA=A4<br>
<font face=3D"Crusades" size=3D6 color=3D"#800080">Lady Victoria's Castle
Closet:</font> <br>
<font face=3D"Blackadder ITC" size=3D5>Custom Clothing and Fine Renaissance
Designs <br>
</font><a href=3D"http://bluedragyn.net/~lvcc/index2.html"=
 eudora=3D"autourl">http://bluedragyn.net/~lvcc/index2.</a><a=
 href=3D"http://bluedragyn.net/~lvcc/index2.html" eudora=3D"autourl">html<br=
>
</a><font face=3D"Book Antiqua, Bookman" size=3D4><b>Gallery</b></font>:
<a href=3D"http://bluedragyn.net/~lvcc/castle-creations"=
 eudora=3D"autourl">http://</a>bluedragyn<a=
 href=3D"http://bluedragyn.net/~lvcc/castle-creations"=
 eudora=3D"autourl">.net/~lvcc/castle-creations</a><br>
<br>
<font color=3D"#800080"><b>15% discount to List Members,
</font><font size=3D4 color=3D"#FF00FF">PayPal accepted<br>
</font></b></div>
</html>

--=====================_41066938==_.ALT--

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Jul  9 17:34:22 2002
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References: <3D281088.31243.3E7DF54@localhost><p05100304b94e692bbb99@[209.86.9.254]><3D290EC2.8030101@attbi.com> <5.1.0.14.0.20020707225807.009f8610@pop.telus.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nettle allergy
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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 07:19:16 +0100
Status: RO

There would be no sting on nettle cloth, even wet nettle have no sting

Mel
This e-mail, and any attachment, is confidential. If you have received
it in error, please delete it from your system, do not use or disclose
the information in any way, and notify me immediately. The contents of
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From: "Linda Walton" <linda.walton@dsl.pipex.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <F100wY6YHkidcDjoYAP00007c07@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Flax was Re: [h-cost] Nettles
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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 22:43:25 +0100
Status: RO

> Now you made me think of an old question that's been resurfacing in my
head
> but that I never did anything with before...
>
> How WAS flax prepared? Any good website? How was it spun into thread?
>


Sara Von Tresckow has a wonderful website at:-

http://www2.powercom.net/~sarav/id11.htm

which covers all practical aspects of flax from growing (see the flaxcam
pictures!) to preparing, through spinning and weaving, to wearing.

Linda Walton.

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Jul  9 17:38:28 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Speaking of weeds....
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 19:15:23 +0100
Status: RO

Yes, a friend of mine has a demonstration hank of wool dyed with tansy, 
and she says she wants to renew it because it's not as loud as it was. 
We were considering doing surcoats with it and giving them to people as 
"stewards" - high-visibility surcoats!

Jean

Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote
>Speaking of using plants we may often consider weeds, some friends of
>mine, who are into natural dyeing, have discovered that you can get
>really nifty shades of green using tansy or knapweed (whole plant, no
>root in both cases), both of which are ubiquitous around here (Montana
>has a bad problem with these and other "noxious weeds.").  You even get
>a really decent darker green if you do an iron bath on the fibers after
>the dyeing.  I've just seen the results on wool and silk fibers (the
>wool definitely took the dye more strongly), although they apparently
>played with some linen threads as well.  No idea how colorfast it is,
>but now I'm sure wishing I could find some white wool
>*fabric.*....*sigh* ;-)
>--sue, who's also discovered you get a really good, screaming yellow
>using dandelion flowers, which makes an eye-popping bright green when
>you overdye it with indigo <g>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Photos of 1700 costumes from the event this weekend
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 19:57:19 +0100
Status: RO

I have to say, the gentlemen in their coats and wigs were definitely the 
spiffiest thing at the event - Huzzah!

Jean


N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote
>Hi All,
>
>I finally got some photos of the Officer's uniform coat and breeches and
>waistcoat I have been working on so madly in the past weeks for ben.
>Unfortunately he had his coat closed and you can't see the beautiful red silk
>and gold brocade waistcoat. *laughs* I will take more photos though soon.
>
>http://arts-humanities.cant.ac.uk/Temp/Hounslow/
>
>My mantua and fontange was made by Ninya Mikhaila, costumier to Hampton Court
>amongst other places. Mine and Ben's wigs were made by Derek Easton (again,
>like the 1660s one) our shoes by Sarah Juniper (all our shoes are). All my lace
>is 19th century lace, some handmade venetian gros needlepoint (lace stomacher,
>tucker and wrist frills), which I got from Marla Mallett, textile collector;
>the lappets of the fontange are 19th c. chemical lace lappets from a cape, the
>dark red silk ribbon is Victorian too. The belt buckle is a genuine one from
>1700, a mopped back to shine meal detector find. All of these last items are
>from eBay. The linen and silk cream brocade of the petticoat is an actual
>period pattern taht was woven as 'wallpaper' for a stately period home here in
>England and I got the narrow remnants, 10 meters of it. The black silk and
>silver metal brocade of the actual mantua is from Russia, and the gold real
>metal braid edging is from Germany. All the other silks and silk brocades are
>from merchants in the UK.
>Ben's coat is made from scarlet superfine cloth from Hainsworth, which is the
>actual same that is used by the Ministry of Defense for dress and parade
>uniforms. A beautiful beautiful cloth, but a pain to sew, it is so tightly
>woven. The silver lace is the B&S pattern for state livery, it's mylar not 90%
>silver because te latter was impossible to get, and I got it from Hand's, the
>oldest established (and still going) goldlacemen in London, supliers to the
>Ministry of defense and the Royal household too. The coat is lined with scarlet
>taffeta silk. The early tricorne hat (rolled up, wired and NOT folded) with
>silver lacing was made by Jane Smith, hatmaker in London, who usually works for
>the big theatre companies like the National Theatre. The brocade of Ben's
>waistcoat is from Russia too, and is linen lined.
>
>There you are, a big long explanation of what you see on the pix :-)
>
>Hope you enjoy, something completely else for once!
>
>Nicole
>
>=====
>Nicole Kipar M.A.
>Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
>Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
>URL: http://www.kipar.org/
>Email: marquis@kipar.org
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
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>from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seeking Button Fly instructions
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Margo.....shall I send you my method of doing it? I just sorta figured it out 
on my own but it works and looks just like "the real thing" [it IS the real 
thing as far as I can tell]. I find them easier than zipper flies.

Let me type up some instructions tonight.

In the mean time see if you can find a sewing book from the 1950s or earlier. 
It should have button flies in it.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>Margo.....shall I send you my method of doing it? I just sorta figured it out on my own but it works and looks just like "the real thing" [it IS the real thing as far as I can tell]. I find them easier than zipper flies.
<BR>
<BR>Let me type up some instructions tonight.
<BR>
<BR>In the mean time see if you can find a sewing book from the 1950s or earlier. It should have button flies in it.</FONT></HTML>

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From: "Jane Williams" <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
To: h-costume@indra.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
Subject: Re: [h-cost] velvet for sale (cross-posted, not spam, please forgive me, it's too good to pass up)
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 22:34:34 +0100
Status: RO

On 4 Jul 2002 at 12:40, Victoria Wickens wrote:

> ACETATE: $40 for 5 yards, $60 for 10 yards, and $6/yd including shipping for every additional 
> yard after 10.
> 
> PANNE: $30 for 5 yards, $50 for 10 yards, and $5/yd including shipping for each additional yard 
> over 10.

That looks like a lot of velvet for not very much 
money: but I now realise that my total knowledge of 
velvet is "I can't afford it" (and even that is now 
wrong!)

Could someone advise on what these two types are, 
please? Also when they would have been used, and 
for what? 

(Yes, I *am* a beginner, you're absolutely right!)




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 Strange it seems to be working fine from this end too.

--Original Message Text---
From: Rose Amberwulf
Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 02:23:37 -0700

Has anyone else try this website?  I wasn't able to get anywhere with it=
.  I am quite eager to take a look at the 
beads.

Roscelin

Hi Folks
OK the bead CD is now up on Professor Carlssons site.
For those interested have a look at :- 
http://www16.aname.net/~arkeodok/


Fr=94jel Gotlandica Viking Re-enactment Society.
http://www.frojel.com/
frojel@frojel.com


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<HTML>


<FONT FACE=3D"Times New Roman" DEFAULT=3D"FACE"><FONT SIZE=3D"3" POINTSI=
ZE=3D"12" DEFAULT=3D"SIZE"> Strange it seems to be working fine from thi=
s end too.<BR>
<BR>
--Original Message Text---<BR>
<B>From:</B> Rose Amberwulf<BR>
<B>Date:</B> Tue, 09 Jul 2002 02:23:37 -0700<BR>
<BR>
Has anyone else try this website?  I wasn't able to get anywhere with it=
.  I am quite eager to take a look at the beads.<BR>
<BR>
Roscelin<BR>
<BR>
<FONT COLOR=3D000000 DEFAULT=3D"COLOR">Hi Folks<BR>
OK the bead CD is now up on Professor Carlssons site.<BR>
For those interested have a look at :- <FONT COLOR=3D0000ff><U><BR>
http://www16.aname.net/~arkeodok/<FONT COLOR=3D000000 DEFAULT=3D"COLOR">=
</U><BR>
<BR>

</HTML>

<HTML>
<LEFT>
<FONT FACE=3D"Times New Roman" COLOR=3D"#000001" SIZE=3D"3" POINTSIZE=3D=
"12" DEFAULT=3D"ALL">
Fr=F6jel&nbsp;Gotlandica&nbsp;Viking&nbsp;Re-enactment&nbsp;Society.<br>=

http://www.frojel.com/<br>
frojel@frojel.com</HTML>

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In a message dated 7/8/02 12:05:54 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> I know we've all
> moved past the idea that women just stopped wearing ANY corset in the
> 1790's-1810's, but when did corsets start to change?
> 

A literary costume note I've always found interesting: Mary Shelley's 1/2 
sister Fanny commits suicide in 1816;  Fanny is identified by her mother's 
stays that she's wearing.  The stays must be circa at least 1795  (the year 
her mother died).  So in 1816 she was wearing a 1795 (or earlier) corset.  
Made me wonder how long stays lasted, if you were not wealthy how long would 
you wear the same corset?

Cheers,

Loren Dearborn
marionetta@aol.com

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 7/8/02 12:05:54 AM Eastern Daylight Time, h-costume-request@indra.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I know we've all<BR>
moved past the idea that women just stopped wearing ANY corset in the<BR>
1790's-1810's, but when did corsets start to change?<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
A literary costume note I've always found interesting: Mary Shelley's 1/2 sister Fanny commits suicide in 1816;&nbsp; Fanny is identified by her mother's stays that she's wearing.&nbsp; The stays must be circa at least 1795&nbsp; (the year her mother died).&nbsp; So in 1816 she was wearing a 1795 (or earlier) corset.&nbsp; Made me wonder how long stays lasted, if you were not wealthy how long would you wear the same corset?<BR>
<BR>
Cheers,<BR>
<BR>
Loren Dearborn<BR>
marionetta@aol.com</FONT></HTML>

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 2002 06:31:23 pm"
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 15:35:04 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

well, i have bras from high school still -- the special occasion ones at 
least -- and they aren't even well made.  



> In a message dated 7/8/02 12:05:54 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
> h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
> 
> 
> > I know we've all
> > moved past the idea that women just stopped wearing ANY corset in the
> > 1790's-1810's, but when did corsets start to change?
> > 
> 
> A literary costume note I've always found interesting: Mary Shelley's 1/2 
> sister Fanny commits suicide in 1816;  Fanny is identified by her mother's 
> stays that she's wearing.  The stays must be circa at least 1795  (the year 
> her mother died).  So in 1816 she was wearing a 1795 (or earlier) corset.  
> Made me wonder how long stays lasted, if you were not wealthy how long would 
> you wear the same corset?
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Loren Dearborn
> marionetta@aol.com

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Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 16:44:35 -0700
Status: RO

At 05:28 PM 07/09/2002 EDT, AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
>Margo.....shall I send you my method of doing it? 

Yes, please!  


>In the mean time see if you can find a sewing book from the 1950s or
>earlier. It should have button flies in it. 

Unfortunately all my older sewing books ignore the topic of men's
tailoring, and the newer ones only give zipper instructions.  The
frustrating thing is, I made a pair of slops about 8 years ago, and the
client requested a buttoned fly.  I remeber following directions in a book,
but I can't figure out for the life of me which one it was!

I'm planning to buy this book soon:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0870054317/qid=1026236027/sr=2-1/ref=
sr_2_1/104-5744739-8328736
in the hopes that it will answer this sort of question for me.  Does anyone
know if it includes button fly instructions?

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seeking Button Fly instructions
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Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 16:43:26 -0700
Status: RO



>
>Help!  Can anyone refer me to a book with clear instructions on how to
>construct a button fly?
>
>I've been through all my sewing books and I'm starting to get really
>frustrated.  Esepecially with books titled things like "The Complete Book
>of Tailoring" that don't even *mention* menswear>Margo
>"One Tough Costumer"

Check out THREADS Magazine's webpage.  They have all kinds of things like 
that.  Now that I think of it I think I'll go cruise around myself.  ;)

http://www.taunton.com/threads/index.asp



Jennifer Sena
Distant Designs
http://home.teleport.com/~cedric/distdesi

I wont hurt you, I just want to dress you up!!


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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seeking Button Fly instructions
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Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 17:02:51 -0700
Status: RO




>From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] Seeking Button Fly instructions
>Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 10:32:00 -0700
>
>Help!  Can anyone refer me to a book with clear instructions on how to
>construct a button fly?
>
>I've been through all my sewing books and I'm starting to get really
>frustrated.  Esepecially with books titled things like "The Complete Book
>of Tailoring" that don't even *mention* menswear.  It seems a rather large
>area to ignore, after all.
>
>Margo


I did find a company that sells a pattern for button fly trousers.


http://www.tailorsguide.com/bf-trous.htm


Jennifer Sena
Distant Designs
http://home.teleport.com/~cedric/distdesi

I wont hurt you, I just want to dress you up!!


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From: "Kim Baird" <kbaird@cableone.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Seeking Button Fly instructions
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 19:46:19 -0500
Status: RO

I've used several patterns for men's trousers with a button fly, and the
best instructions I've found are in Laughing Moon's California pants.
It's a very good pattern.

http://www.lafnmoon.com/california_pants.htm

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Margo Anderson
Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2002 12:32 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Seeking Button Fly instructions

Help!  Can anyone refer me to a book with clear instructions on how to
construct a button fly?  

I've been through all my sewing books and I'm starting to get really
frustrated.  Esepecially with books titled things like "The Complete
Book
of Tailoring" that don't even *mention* menswear.  It seems a rather
large
area to ignore, after all.

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Jul  9 21:14:13 2002
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Picture of Sleeveless Italian Chemise
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Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 20:21:50 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Tue, 9 Jul 2002 MaddNancy@aol.com wrote:

> Looking through Italian Renaissance Interiors I came across a picture
> of a Birth (may be the Virgin; may be John the Baptist: book says
> Virgin; website says Baptist) by Giusto de' Menabuoi in the Cathedral
> Baptistry in Padua (1376-78).  I got very excited...there is a woman
> wearing a sleeveless chemise that is belted under the breasts.  I
> would normally assume that she is the wetnurse, but she's wearing a
> balzo, although that may indicate that the painter assumed that the
> Baptist (or Virgin) would have a noble wetnurse.

It's hard to tell from the online version, but is her right breast exposed
through a nursing slit? If so, you've definitely got a wetnurse. Perhaps
someone with a hardcopy reproduction of this image can tell us.

Sure does look like a sleeveless chemise, and I'd consider this a pretty
clear-cut source (the attendants look pretty realistic). There are some
curious details throughout worth noting: the belt on the chemise, the
lines (decoration? seams?) on the mother's gown/chemise, the general
plumpness of the women, and the servant you already noticed with the
shortsleeved chemise with the sleeveless gown.

Next step: Find more art by this artist and compare styles and
presentation. Then, if possible, other art from the same place and time to
see if his quirks are unique or occur elsewhere.

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] A question from a friend
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Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 20:58:36 -0400
Status: RO

My husband figured that I would know the answer to this question. And 
of course I wouldn't want to let him down. But a person at his work 
wanted to know the answer to this question.

And the question is:

>  I was wondering if you could help me, do you know what the name of a
>  nightshirt or gown that was worn by a king called?  This would be from the
>  13th Century forward.

I can't come up with anything other than an undershirt or chemise 
(but I thought those were women's wear).  I will be sure to credit 
the correct answerer, of course.

Any ideas?

Linda K-S
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Movie: "Druids"
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Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 22:47:27 -0400
Status: RO

> *From:* Rose Amberwulf
> *Date:* Tue, 09 Jul 2002 02:23:37 -0700
> 
> Has anyone else try this website? I wasn't able to get anywhere with it. 
> I am quite eager to take a look at the beads.

Hi Roscelin-
	it works fine on my end, and I've tromped through the site as 
well. It's possible that you got caught by the same thing a 
friend of my got caught with: when the url was posted there 
was an extra underscore at the beginning and at the end of 
the address. The one at the beginning wasn't a problem 
because it was on a different line, but the one at the end 
seem to travel with the url. My first try gave me a 404 
error message. I realized what probably happened and erased 
the line at the end and it worked just fine. Try this: 
http://www16.aname.net/~arkeodok/index.html


	-Judy Mitchell


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Subject: [h-cost] The 1796 nettlecloth dress
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Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 19:46:40 -0700
Status: RO

The photos were someone supplied appear to have been scanned in from a
modern copyrighted book, Ellen Anderson's _Moden 1790-1840_.  This
book includes a scale pattern of the same dress with notes.  It also
includes 18 other scale patterns for women's and men's garments, and
many photos including those for which no pattern is provided.  It was
published in 1986 by the Nationalmuseet in Copenhagen. I think I
bought mine from Fred Struthers--his email is fsbks@mcn.org.

Fran Grimble

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Costume College
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Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 23:41:48 -0500
Status: RO

We're going to Costume College as well.  We're teaching a class on Trims on 
Saturday at 1 pm, and a limited attendance workshop on creating headpieces 
and headdresses (mostly Fantasy oriented, but...) late Sunday afternoon.  I 
at least will try to remember to put a red H on my badge.  If you're going 
to the gala Saturday night, I will be in bright orange and yellow, and 
Pierre will be in black and silver gray.

Sandy

>From: AlbraKat@aol.com
>I'll be going to Costumne College----and will be teaching the gold
>bullion/metal thread /pearl embroidery class on saturday morning:) Arriving
>friday late afternoon--leaving sunday by noon.  I'll put a red H next to my
>name on my name badge---Kathryn Wolters----and would love to meet up for an
>h-costumne lunch. Hope to meet more of you there!!
>Albra/Kathryn

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed To Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly--
Why They Are Simply Doomed."

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
-- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda


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From: MaddNancy@aol.com
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Picture of Sleeveless Italian Chemise
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 00:49:37 EDT
Status: RO


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In a message dated 7/9/02 2:02:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Colleen.McDonald@mackie.com writes:


> I may be able to document that sleeveless chemise in Italy yet!

Colleen,

Remind me please, what exactly are you trying to document the sleeveless 
chemise for?  Do you have any particular exterior garments that you want to 
recreate to wear over them?  This area really fascinates me, so I'm really 
interested in what you've tried so far.  This era and the clothes in Italy of 
that time are on my "wish list".  I want to look like one of the babes in the 
Tacuinam Sanitatis!

Nancy

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 7/9/02 2:02:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Colleen.McDonald@mackie.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I may be able to document that sleeveless chemise in Italy yet!</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Colleen,<BR>
<BR>
Remind me please, what exactly are you trying to document the sleeveless chemise for?&nbsp; Do you have any particular exterior garments that you want to recreate to wear over them?&nbsp; This area really fascinates me, so I'm really interested in what you've tried so far.&nbsp; This era and the clothes in Italy of that time are on my "wish list".&nbsp; I want to look like one of the babes in the Tacuinam Sanitatis!<BR>
<BR>
Nancy</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] Intro and Revolution In Fashion book
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Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 18:57:33 -0700
Status: RO

Hello, everyone -

My name is Julie, and I've been lurking here for a few months. Sort of 
waiting for the right moment (and the nerve) to jump in and join the fun. <g>

Costuming is a hobby I've indulged in as far back as I can remember. I just 
plain like to make costumes. Not professionally, but just for myself and 
sometimes some friends. I'm not really into the SCA or Ren Faire, my 
primary interest is the research and construction of the costumes 
themselves. My favorite time period has always been Regency (with some side 
trips to the Renaissance, both English and Italian). For the last few years 
I've been away from costuming, but lately I've gotten back into it and I've 
got several projects scattered around the house. I just recently converted 
part of (well, MOST of) the closet in the guest room to fabric storage so I 
can put my hands on anything in my fabric stash whenever I need to. I've 
got lots of questions and pleas for help, but that'll come later.

First things first - I think I can help a bunch of people here. There's 
been some talk recently about the book The Revolution In Fashion from the 
Kyoto Costume Institute. I noticed every seemed to be in agreement that the 
book was out of print and unable to be found anywhere. Well, I just came 
across this book recently (I live near Los Angeles and was in AlterYears a 
few weeks ago and I drooled over the store copy) and of course the moment I 
saw it I knew I had to have a copy. I did a little searching on the 
Internet and found that most people were right, it was no where to be 
found. But then I decided to check the source and the end result is I'm 
sitting here with a brand new copy of Revolution In Fashion clutched in my 
hands as I type this!

I found it at, of all places, the Kyoto Costume Institute website. They 
have it listed in their catalog, and I just emailed the contact person, 
received a reply within 24 hours, and here I am, two weeks later with the 
book. The best part, it cost just $30, and that included shipping from 
Kyoto! They said the only way they can ship it is C.O.D, which is a bit of 
a pain because I had to wait here for the delivery, but it was so worth it!

Here's the address for the catalog 
page:  http://www.kci.or.jp/cgi-bin/catalogue.cgi?lang=e
If I was able to purchase it, I'm sure anyone else who wants a copy will be 
able to, too!

I've got to go find a drool rag so I can sit down and enjoy the book!

Julie

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Picture of Sleeveless Italian Chemise
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 00:49:46 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Wed, 10 Jul 2002 MaddNancy@aol.com wrote:

> This era and the clothes in Italy of that time are on my "wish list".  
> I want to look like one of the babes in the Tacuinam Sanitatis!

Which Tacuinam? There are five or so manuscripts of that name whose
illustrations are frequently reproduced, with some differences in style
among them. They may be nominally Italian, but they're from Northern
Italy, and in some of the manuscripts, the fashions are almost
indistinguishable from the French.

And, which Italy? If you're looking for "Italian" style, you need to
consider which of the several distinct styles lumped under that name you
actually mean. Each of the regions had its own look, and the farther south
you go, the more it differs from Western Europe. For instance, the image
we were just looking at, with the sleeveless chemise, is very different in
look from what you see in many of the Tacuinum manuscripts.

And this is one reason I don't go anywhere near Italian costume! I can't
wrap my head around the degree of variation, and I've never tried to work
out which of the variations line up with which of the regions. But I use
some of the Tacuinum illustrations when I teach International Gothic
fashions, because they fall close enough (geographically and
stylistically) to the Franco-Flemish to be classed with them.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Intro and Revolution In Fashion book
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 02:09:47 -0400
Status: RO

> I found it at, of all places, the Kyoto Costume Institute website. They
> have it listed in their catalog, and I just emailed the contact person,
> received a reply within 24 hours, and here I am, two weeks later with the
> book. The best part, it cost just $30, and that included shipping from
> Kyoto! They said the only way they can ship it is C.O.D, which is a bit of
> a pain because I had to wait here for the delivery, but it was so worth
it!
>
> Here's the address for the catalog
> page:  http://www.kci.or.jp/cgi-bin/catalogue.cgi?lang=e
> If I was able to purchase it, I'm sure anyone else who wants a copy will
be
> able to, too!

Oh, wow, THANKS!! Btw, there's one copy on ebay now, but last time I checked
it was up to 92$ - and they don't ship to Canada :-) Your way is MUCH
better!!!

The worst thing is, I went to their website yesterday night, saw the video
of the same name, didn't see the book... ehehe :-)
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From: Rose Amberwulf <roscelin@attbi.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] History of beads
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 00:10:37 -0700
Status: RO

Thank you, Judy.  It is working for me now with your correction.  I 
can't wait to get the CD.  I've been a beader for sometime, but have 
just started to think about working on a research paper about the use 
and history of  beads.

Roscelin

Judy Mitchell wrote:

>> *From:* Rose Amberwulf
>> *Date:* Tue, 09 Jul 2002 02:23:37 -0700
>>
>> Has anyone else try this website? I wasn't able to get anywhere with 
>> it. I am quite eager to take a look at the beads.
>
>
> Hi Roscelin-
>     it works fine on my end, and I've tromped through the site as 
> well. It's possible that you got caught by the same thing a friend of 
> my got caught with: when the url was posted there was an extra 
> underscore at the beginning and at the end of the address. The one at 
> the beginning wasn't a problem because it was on a different line, but 
> the one at the end seem to travel with the url. My first try gave me a 
> 404 error message. I realized what probably happened and erased the 
> line at the end and it worked just fine. Try this: 
> http://www16.aname.net/~arkeodok/index.html
>
>
>     -Judy Mitchell
>
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Photos of 1700 costumes from the event this weekend
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 08:53:49 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote: > I have to say, the
gentlemen in their coats and wigs were definitely the 
> spiffiest thing at the event - Huzzah!
> 
> Jean

Thanks Jean! *grins* wait till I have finished ben's coat for good and he has
silver lace around the shoulders (two rows) and down the sides (two rows) and
along the outside of the breeches (yet another two row) he's gonna be
glow-in-the-dark-officer.
hehehehe

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 09:36:10 +0100
Status: RO

Nicole, I wish I could  have been there to see you all (though it was exciting singing in Beethoven's 9th in Derby Cathedral!) I spoke to a friend from our music group last night, but they seem to have spent all their spare time at the event watching another friend's American Civil War group.
I'm most impressed with your hairstyle; I see you say it was a wig, but even so it must have taken a lot of skill and patience to arrange.



Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 09:49:21 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote: > Nicole, I wish I could 
have been there to see you all (though it was
> exciting singing in Beethoven's 9th in Derby Cathedral!) 

Wow, now that does sound exciting indeed.

I spoke to a friend
> from our music group last night, but they seem to have spent all their spare
> time at the event watching another friend's American Civil War group.

We met some from the general's musick, do you know them? The ECW dance troupe.
Very nice indeed.

> I'm most impressed with your hairstyle; I see you say it was a wig, but even
> so it must have taken a lot of skill and patience to arrange.

*GRINS* No, no, the wig is actually made into this style. Ninya arranged the
fontange onto he wig and all I do is pop on the wig cum fontange like a hat.
Takes 2 ticks. Derek has arranged all the long hair of the wig in a bun, where
the fontange cap sits on, and the front is fastened godness how wigmakers do
it, but it is very sturdy. What I alys do is send the wig(s) back to him after
the season to be washed and re-set. 35 quid per wig well spent! It enhances the
life of them indefinitely. I just bought a human hair wig in the same colour
though, long and straight, no bangs, which I can wear 'before' my hair is
dressed. :-))

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 10:02:06 +0100
Status: RO

Nicole wrote:
>We met some from the general's musick, do you know them? The ECW >dance troupe.
>Very nice indeed.

That *is* our group, though the dancers are actually an independent group, Renaissance Footnotes, who often join forces with us. We've just heard that we have been booked to appear together at the Museum of London in the New Year, which will be our most prestigious gig yet!


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] small towns
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 10:25:13 +0000 (GMT)
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> Ah, this explains it all: to me, Dunstable is a suburb of Luton.
> Just like Stopsley, where I grew up. And to get this at least
> slightly back on topic, both close enough to the town centre to be
> linked to the Luton hat-making industry, I think? 

Yep, though it was (dunno about now) still regarded a s a seperate 
town by the people living there and Dunstable had a reasonable rep 
of it's own for straw hatmaking too, at one time.


Teddy
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 21:57:22 +1200
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> *GRINS* No, no, the wig is actually made into this style. Ninya arranged
the
> fontange onto he wig and all I do is pop on the wig cum fontange like a
hat.
> Takes 2 ticks. Derek has arranged all the long hair of the wig in a bun,
where
> the fontange cap sits on, and the front is fastened godness how wigmakers
do
> it, but it is very sturdy.

When I did my bit as Lady wishfort I used my own hair and merrily mocked the
heck out of the style. Well Lady Wishfort is "of a certain age" and trying
desperately to impress this bit of tasty crumpet and so I decided that she
was overdoing the effort.

I wound the front section of my hair around bobby pins and did loose
ringlets at the back, pinned to the head.. and they started to fall out of
place (which added to the comedy of me chasing this young man about the
room). When the front section was unwound and brushed... well you could have
used me to clean chimneys! I really wish I'd had photos.. I was a sight...

But it was very easy to do and required no styling products thanks to the
really tight curls.

When we saw a production of it the next year, they seemed to have set it 50
years on in time. So yes, 1690-1710 is a very underdone era of fashion
history.

michaela


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Subject: Re: Flax was Re: [h-cost] Nettles 
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> How WAS flax prepared? Any good website? How was it spun into thread? Or was 
> 
> it used as is to make very thin fabric? Does it grow around here? (here 
> being Montreal, Canada) 

As a kid, I went on a field trip in New York (USA) to a reenactment village.  
They let us spin our own flax.  This is as much as I can remember.:

Flax stalks looked like straw to me.  They had a board that was maybe 8 
inches wide and 1 inch thick standing upright about 3 feet high, mounted to a 
base.  The board had a hole near the top where you put the ends of the flax 
strands; the rest of the flax hung along the board to be beaten with a 
paddle.  I can't remember if the paddle was flat or spiked, but it was used 
to crack the hard outer shell of the plant off the soft inner fibers.  Once 
the shells were off, you grabbed the bunch by the ends and wrapped them 
around a spindle.  Ya held that up to about chest height and set it spinning. 
 This gave you a loose yarn, some of which we made into bracelets as 
souveniers.  The rest was then set on a spinning wheel to refine the yarn 
into thread, which was then looped onto a loom for weaving.

My dictionary also says this.:

"1.a.  A plant of the genus Linum, esp. a widely cultivated species, L. 
usitatissimum, having blue flowers, seeds that yeild linseed oil, and slender 
stems from which a fine, light-colored textile fiber is obtained."

I think the flowers were removed before spinning, as were any roots, because 
I only remember seeing clean pre-cut stems.  Not sure where you'd get seeds, 
but hopefully my info was helpful.

--Gillian

--part1_82.1e182d22.2a5d68df_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">How WAS flax prepared? Any good website? How was it spun into thread? Or was <BR>
it used as is to make very thin fabric? Does it grow around here? (here <BR>
being Montreal, Canada) </BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
As a kid, I went on a field trip in New York (USA) to a reenactment village.&nbsp; They let us spin our own flax.&nbsp; This is as much as I can remember.:<BR>
<BR>
Flax stalks looked like straw to me.&nbsp; They had a board that was maybe 8 inches wide and 1 inch thick standing upright about 3 feet high, mounted to a base.&nbsp; The board had a hole near the top where you put the ends of the flax strands; the rest of the flax hung along the board to be beaten with a paddle.&nbsp; I can't remember if the paddle was flat or spiked, but it was used to crack the hard outer shell of the plant off the soft inner fibers.&nbsp; Once the shells were off, you grabbed the bunch by the ends and wrapped them around a spindle.&nbsp; Ya held that up to about chest height and set it spinning.&nbsp; This gave you a loose yarn, some of which we made into bracelets as souveniers.&nbsp; The rest was then set on a spinning wheel to refine the yarn into thread, which was then looped onto a loom for weaving.<BR>
<BR>
My dictionary also says this.:<BR>
<BR>
"1.a.&nbsp; A plant of the genus Linum, esp. a widely cultivated species, L. usitatissimum, having blue flowers, seeds that yeild linseed oil, and slender stems from which a fine, light-colored textile fiber is obtained."<BR>
<BR>
I think the flowers were removed before spinning, as were any roots, because I only remember seeing clean pre-cut stems.&nbsp; Not sure where you'd get seeds, but hopefully my info was helpful.<BR>
<BR>
--Gillian</FONT></HTML>

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> Photos of 1700 costumes from the event this weekend
> 
That gown is TO DIE FOR!!!  And that's not even my period (Elizabethan).  
Please tell me more about that Russian source for the black and silver 
brocade!


--Gillian

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Photos of 1700 costumes from the event this weekend<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
That gown is TO DIE FOR!!!&nbsp; And that's not even my period (Elizabethan).&nbsp; Please tell me more about that Russian source for the black and silver brocade!<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
--Gillian<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 21:59:39 +1000
Status: RO

Nicole,

Now this IS dedication!!

 I just bought a human hair wig in the same colour
> though, long and straight, no bangs, which I can wear 'before' my hair is
> dressed. :-))

Glenda.

Can't cope with the idea of getting heatstroke over there, though - our
current (winter) temps are about the same as yours is now - I don't feel
the heat until about 35C, and don't really suffer until the heat is over
body temp. - don't try me in the cold, though :-) Hope you're feeling better
now.





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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 06:06:38 -0600
Status: RO

He almost is, already, with the scarlet of that coat! <g>
You guys look *great*! Besides enjoying how great Ben looks (what is it
about good clothes and long hair on men...yum, yum <g>), I also drooled
at your fabric (for the mantua? some sort of grey and silver brocade?),
and your description of all the places you used to acquire bits of your
outfits....I sure wish I had some of your resources!
About the event at which these photos were taken...was this an event
wholey dedicated to just this time period? or one of those mass events I
hear about, with a whole bunch of different time periods and
encampments? Were you doing it purely for yourselves, or were you also
available to the public? (my group pretty much does it for the former
reason, but I've heard of groups that do it for the latter...)
--Sue, up early so she can work on her eternal (darned near "infernal")
blackwork project, and think about the early period Norse outfit she's
planning (*sigh*....so many centuries, so little time.....;-)

N Kipar wrote:
> 
>  --- Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote: > I have to say, the
> gentlemen in their coats and wigs were definitely the
> > spiffiest thing at the event - Huzzah!
> >
> > Jean
> 
> Thanks Jean! *grins* wait till I have finished ben's coat for good and he has
> silver lace around the shoulders (two rows) and down the sides (two rows) and
> along the outside of the breeches (yet another two row) he's gonna be
> glow-in-the-dark-officer.
> hehehehe
>
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 13:44:31 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Hi Julie,

Welcome to h-costume!



Teddy
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jul 10 09:35:08 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Photos of 1700 costumes from the event this weekend
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 14:18:31 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote: > He almost is, already, with
the scarlet of that coat! <g>

actually, not kidding, he does kinda glow, we walked back to the tents from the
beertent and I thought he was rather visible. :-)

> You guys look *great*! Besides enjoying how great Ben looks (what is it
> about good clothes and long hair on men...yum, yum <g>),

hehe, he really does have long hair underneath the wig.

 I also drooled
> at your fabric (for the mantua? some sort of grey and silver brocade?),

black silk and silver thread, it looks greyish in the photos but is actually
silver.

> and your description of all the places you used to acquire bits of your
> outfits....I sure wish I had some of your resources!

oh, most of it is online! only a small amount of things comes from the UK.

> About the event at which these photos were taken...was this an event
> wholey dedicated to just this time period? or one of those mass events I
> hear about, with a whole bunch of different time periods and
> encampments? 

It was a multi-period event, which are my favourites. Hundreds of re-enactors
of almost all time periods, fantastic. This year for the first time we had
Greek hoplites!

Were you doing it purely for yourselves, or were you also
> available to the public? (my group pretty much does it for the former
> reason, but I've heard of groups that do it for the latter...)

actually, 'classic' re-enactors work for the public. people who don't aren't
seen as re-enactors but as people who like costumes. (waits to get stick for
that now, but it's true!)

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Photos of 1700 costumes from the event this weekend
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 14:36:02 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Glenda Robinson <glendar@compassnet.com.au> wrote: > 

> Can't cope with the idea of getting heatstroke over there, though - our
> current (winter) temps are about the same as yours is now - I don't feel
> the heat until about 35C, and don't really suffer until the heat is over
> body temp. - don't try me in the cold, though :-) Hope you're feeling better
> now.

*laughs* I think I would die iver at your place. I hate heat, hate it with a
deep vengeance. My skin is white, my eyes are pale, my organism needs several
liters of water, my brain doesn't function when it's too warm, and my ancestors
come from Russia.

20 celsius and a gentle breeze under a sunny sky, that is perfect for costumes!

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jul 10 09:59:07 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] aurora bleacheries - help
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 09:42:11 EDT
Status: RO

I'm one of those people "lurking" in the background, enjoying all the 
information and glad to be able to offer some in return.  We used to live in 
Chicago area, and are now in St. Louis area, so I've used the Aurora 
Bleachery, but not recently.  Their new name is Aurora Textile Finishing, and 
the old telphone number is still good:  (630)-892-7651.  I called, and a 
recording says the remnant shop is open Monday through Friday, 9 to 2:30.  
The recording gives directions from I-88 (East-West Tollroad):  exit at Route 
31 (Lake St.) south to Aurora, go 5 stop lights,  turn left onto service 
road.  From there the directions get complicated, so I assume they are still 
in the old location, but the little access road has changed due to 
construction.  I suggest you call them for complete directions. 

For those who are not familiar with the Aurora Bleachery, they sell cotton 
and  cotton blend remnants by weight, of whatever fabrics they are finishing, 
from a small area within their plant.  I used to buy white, black and 
unbleached muslin from them for making shirts.  As far as I know, they only 
sell if you go to the plant.  

Hope this helps.  

Carol Inkpen 
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jul 10 10:15:21 2002
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 08:04:12 -0600
Status: RO

*snort* You sound like me! Except that my ancestors came from Britain
and Ireland <ggg>, and I have the fair (freckled/pink) skin and blue
eyes to show for it, although I'm brown-haired.  I've learned to deal
with the extreme temperatures in my part of the world (Montana in the
U.S., not Australia), but I completely *loathe* heat, and I sunburn very
badly unless I'm careful.  I'm at my best, mentally and physically, when
it's in the 60s and low 70s (farenheit, not sure of celsius
equivalent).  Made me wonder, more than once, how much of heat/cold
tolerance is acquired (i.e., just a matter of what you're used to), and
how much of it may be inherited in some way.
--Sue

N Kipar wrote:
> 
>  --- Glenda Robinson <glendar@compassnet.com.au> wrote: >
> 
> > Can't cope with the idea of getting heatstroke over there, though - our
> > current (winter) temps are about the same as yours is now - I don't feel
> > the heat until about 35C, and don't really suffer until the heat is over
> > body temp. - don't try me in the cold, though :-) Hope you're feeling better
> > now.
> 
> *laughs* I think I would die iver at your place. I hate heat, hate it with a
> deep vengeance. My skin is white, my eyes are pale, my organism needs several
> liters of water, my brain doesn't function when it's too warm, and my ancestors
> come from Russia.
> 
> 20 celsius and a gentle breeze under a sunny sky, that is perfect for costumes!
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Picture of Sleeveless Italian Chemise
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Thread-Topic: [h-cost] Picture of Sleeveless Italian Chemise
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From: "Colleen McDonald" <Colleen.McDonald@mackie.com>
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 07:22:02 -0700
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Nancy wrote:=20
<< Remind me please, what exactly are you trying to document the =
sleeveless chemise for? >>
=20
I'm gearing up to enter a complete Italian outfit (around 1350-1365, =
Florence) in a big competition next March, something along the lines of =
the purple dress in the Last Judgment (Nardo di Cione, Santa Maria =
Novella, 1350).  I want to have everything as documented as possible =
(well, and still finish on time).  I'm starting with the chemise and =
working from the skin out. =20
=20
Here's a link to the picture: =
http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/html/n/nardo/index.html.
=20
I'm also working to learn tablet/card weaving to recreate the trim on =
the neck line and wrists of the garment.
=20
I've completed a more generic 14th century Italian dress for a previous =
competition at a lower level, so now I'm refining my research.
=20
Thanks to everyone for the help and suggestions so far!
=20
Colleen

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">


<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial><FONT lang=3D0 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><FONT =
size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D950451314-10072002><FONT color=3D#0000ff>Nancy=20
wrote:&nbsp;</FONT></SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial><FONT lang=3D0 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><FONT =
size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D950451314-10072002><FONT =
color=3D#0000ff>&lt;&lt;&nbsp;</FONT></SPAN>Remind=20
me please, what exactly are you trying to document the sleeveless =
chemise=20
for?<SPAN class=3D950451314-10072002><FONT=20
color=3D#0000ff>&nbsp;&gt;&gt;</FONT></SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial><FONT lang=3D0 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><FONT =
size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D950451314-10072002></SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial><FONT lang=3D0 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><FONT =
size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D950451314-10072002>I'm gearing up to enter a complete Italian =
outfit=20
(around 1350-1365, Florence) in a big competition next March, something =
along=20
the lines of the purple dress in the Last Judgment (Nardo di Cione, =
Santa Maria=20
Novella, 1350).&nbsp; I want to have everything as documented as =
possible (well,=20
and still finish on time).&nbsp; I'm starting with the chemise and =
working from=20
the skin out.&nbsp; </SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial><FONT lang=3D0 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><FONT =
size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D950451314-10072002></SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial><FONT lang=3D0 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><FONT =
size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D950451314-10072002>Here's a link to the picture: <A=20
href=3D"http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/html/n/nardo/index.html">http://www.kfk=
i.hu/~arthp/html/n/nardo/index.html</A>.</SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV=
>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial><FONT lang=3D0 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><FONT =
size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D950451314-10072002></SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial><FONT lang=3D0 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><FONT =
size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D950451314-10072002>I'm also working to learn tablet/card weaving =
to=20
recreate the trim on the neck line and wrists of the=20
garment.</SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial><FONT lang=3D0 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><FONT =
size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D950451314-10072002></SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial><FONT lang=3D0 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><FONT =
size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D950451314-10072002>I've completed a more generic 14th century =
Italian=20
dress for a previous competition at a lower level, so now I'm refining =
my=20
research.</SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial><FONT lang=3D0 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><FONT =
size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D950451314-10072002></SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial><FONT lang=3D0 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><FONT =
size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D950451314-10072002>Thanks to everyone for the help and =
suggestions so=20
far!</SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial><FONT lang=3D0 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><FONT =
size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D950451314-10072002></SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial><FONT lang=3D0 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><FONT =
size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D950451314-10072002>Colleen</SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV></BOD=
Y></HTML>

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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 12:28:39 -0400
Status: RO


Dear all-knowing List:

For some reason my internet service isn't connecting today, but my email is.
Does anyone know an on-line source for pictures of the "Devonshire
Tapestries"? A friend is looking and I can't search. They are a set of
tapestries, apparently, with hunting scenes. A color print source would be
good, too. She has seen only a B&W of one of the panels? tapestries?
figures? She is particularly interested in a figure of a falconer, but she
would like to see any and all. I thought someone here might know.

Gail Finke


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] devonshire tapestries
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 11:36:11 -0500
Status: RO

The Devonshire Tapestries are huge wall hangings which are in the
Victoria and Albert in London. The figures are mostly life size. I have
several slides of the tapestries which I got at the V&A for research
purposes. If you can contact the museum, they may still have them
available. The figures have wonderful clothing, some of which I suspect
is a bit fantastical, but the more bucolic figures seem to be more
realistic. I don't know of a good print source, that's why I got the
slides!


Karen


On Wed, 10 Jul 2002 12:28:39 -0400 Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
writes:
> 
> Dear all-knowing List:
> 
> For some reason my internet service isn't connecting today, but my 
> email is.
> Does anyone know an on-line source for pictures of the "Devonshire
> Tapestries"? A friend is looking and I can't search. They are a set 
> of
> tapestries, apparently, with hunting scenes. A color print source 
> would be
> good, too. She has seen only a B&W of one of the panels? 
> tapestries?
> figures? She is particularly interested in a figure of a falconer, 
> but she
> would like to see any and all. I thought someone here might know.
> 
> Gail Finke
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] devonshire tapestries
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 12:19:53 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Wed, 10 Jul 2002 seamstrix@juno.com wrote:

> The Devonshire Tapestries are huge wall hangings which are in the
> Victoria and Albert in London. The figures are mostly life size. I
> have several slides of the tapestries which I got at the V&A for
> research purposes. If you can contact the museum, they may still have
> them available. The figures have wonderful clothing, some of which I
> suspect is a bit fantastical, but the more bucolic figures seem to be
> more realistic. I don't know of a good print source, that's why I got
> the slides!

The good print source is this:

_The Devonshire Hunting Tapestries_, by George Wingfield Digby. London:  
Victoria & Albert Museum, 1971.

It's hardback, about 12x12, with full foldouts of all four tapestries,
closeups (some in color) of interesting details, and LOTS of good
analysis. Be sure to read the text. It's important to know that the
tapestries were not originally made as a set, but were combined to form a
set, and the dates on them differ. That means you can't safely mix and
match details from the indiscriminately. Also, because this style of
tapestry was practically mass-produced in workshops (which often
recombined pieces of cartoons of different dates) and because these
particular ones have undergone some alterations, there are other dating
problems. I am dead certain, for instance, that one figure (wearing a
princess-seamed dress on her overgown, a flounced hem on her undergown,
and a partlet!)  was a later repair or addition. There are many such
anomalies in the tapestries, and it's worth reading the analysis to sort
some of it out. I would not recommend the costume analysis section,
however.

I'd guess the book is available ILL. I was at the V&A in the early 80s
when it was still on sale. It cost me about $10. I should have bought the
whole stack.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Intro and Revolution In Fashion book
In-Reply-To: <OE39h8e3U5zjzjPWL0J00004d7b@hotmail.com> "from Audrey Bergeron-Morin
 at Jul 10, 2002 02:09:47 am"
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 10:39:23 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

thanks for the info!  who did you email to get the book?  I emailed 
their "info" address but I wasn't sure if it was the right one.


> > I found it at, of all places, the Kyoto Costume Institute website. They
> > have it listed in their catalog, and I just emailed the contact person,
> > received a reply within 24 hours, and here I am, two weeks later with the
> > book. The best part, it cost just $30, and that included shipping from
> > Kyoto! They said the only way they can ship it is C.O.D, which is a bit of
> > a pain because I had to wait here for the delivery, but it was so worth
> it!
> >
> > Here's the address for the catalog
> > page:  http://www.kci.or.jp/cgi-bin/catalogue.cgi?lang=e
> > If I was able to purchase it, I'm sure anyone else who wants a copy will
> be
> > able to, too!
> 
> Oh, wow, THANKS!! Btw, there's one copy on ebay now, but last time I checked
> it was up to 92$ - and they don't ship to Canada :-) Your way is MUCH
> better!!!
> 
> The worst thing is, I went to their website yesterday night, saw the video
> of the same name, didn't see the book... ehehe :-)
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Photos of 1700 costumes from the event this weekend
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 19:25:20 +0100
Status: RO

N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote
> --- Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote: > I have to say, the
>gentlemen in their coats and wigs were definitely the
>> spiffiest thing at the event - Huzzah!
>>
>> Jean
>
>Thanks Jean! *grins* wait till I have finished ben's coat for good and he has
>silver lace around the shoulders (two rows) and down the sides (two rows) and
>along the outside of the breeches (yet another two row) he's gonna be
>glow-in-the-dark-officer.
>hehehehe
>
>Nicole
>
We'll have to match him with someone in a tansy-dyed surcoat and see who 
glows best!

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 16:31:34 -0400
Status: RO

Hi,
Those of you who regularly sell on EBay, could you give me your IDs so I can
take a look once in a while?
Also, if you have AMAZING merchants you would love other people to buy from,
I'd take a look...
Thanks!
Audrey
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 16:59:56 -0500
Status: RO

Dear List

After some confusion and missteps, I have unsubbed 
as "mzscahlett" and resubbed under this email.  This 
is a test to see if I've done it all properly.  Sorry 
for the misuse of bandwidth, but I just had to be sure 
I hadn't lost y'all forever.

angela
Cabbage Rose Costumes
Theatrical Costume Design
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Photos of 1700 costumes from the event this weekend
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 17:11:41 -0400
Status: RO

can i add a most enthusiastic "me too"?
i'm of dutch/english/scottish descent on my mom's side and
french-canadian/indian (wyandot) on my father's. blue eyes, brown hair and
freckles. can't do heat for nothin'. humidity is even worse. as my hair gets
bigger, so do the complaints:)
right now i'm preparing for our big yearly event in the sca (pennsic  war)
and i'm working through a large pile of linen. we're hoping (as we do every
year) that it'll be a cool war. we'll see.
laurie
> *snort* You sound like me! Except that my ancestors came from Britain
> and Ireland <ggg>, and I have the fair (freckled/pink) skin and blue
> eyes to show for it, although I'm brown-haired.  I've learned to deal
> with the extreme temperatures in my part of the world (Montana in the
> U.S., not Australia), but I completely *loathe* heat, and I sunburn very
> badly unless I'm careful.  I'm at my best, mentally and physically, when
> it's in the 60s and low 70s (farenheit, not sure of celsius
> equivalent).  Made me wonder, more than once, how much of heat/cold
> tolerance is acquired (i.e., just a matter of what you're used to), and
> how much of it may be inherited in some way.
> --Sue
> 
> N Kipar wrote:
>> 
>> --- Glenda Robinson <glendar@compassnet.com.au> wrote: >
>> 
>>> Can't cope with the idea of getting heatstroke over there, though - our
>>> current (winter) temps are about the same as yours is now - I don't feel
>>> the heat until about 35C, and don't really suffer until the heat is over
>>> body temp. - don't try me in the cold, though :-) Hope you're feeling better
>>> now.
>> 
>> *laughs* I think I would die iver at your place. I hate heat, hate it with a
>> deep vengeance. My skin is white, my eyes are pale, my organism needs several
>> liters of water, my brain doesn't function when it's too warm, and my
>> ancestors
>> come from Russia.
>> 
>> 20 celsius and a gentle breeze under a sunny sky, that is perfect for
>> costumes!
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] EBay?
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 14:02:24 -0700
Status: RO


>Those of you who regularly sell on EBay, could you give me your IDs so I can
>take a look once in a while?
>Also, if you have AMAZING merchants you would love other people to buy from,
>I'd take a look...

Yes.  It seems perfectly on-topic to post this sort of info.  I have just 
begun to browse e-bay regularly, and even bought something a couple of days 
ago (some lace bits the dealer called 'costume accessories').

Kayta

    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jul 10 18:44:09 2002
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 18:27:16 -0400
Status: RO

I see you Angela!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


----- Original Message -----
From: "Angela F. Lazear" <CABBAGE_ROSE@sbcglobal.net>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2002 5:59 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Testing new address/ot


> Dear List
>
> After some confusion and missteps, I have unsubbed
> as "mzscahlett" and resubbed under this email.  This
> is a test to see if I've done it all properly.  Sorry
> for the misuse of bandwidth, but I just had to be sure
> I hadn't lost y'all forever.
>
> angela
> Cabbage Rose Costumes
> Theatrical Costume Design
> www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>




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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jul 10 19:12:04 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Costume Trivia
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 18:55:57 -0400
Status: RO

This past week I have run across some costume trivia that I thought I'd
share...

>From a 1923 Lane Bryant catalog:
Ladies coats with fur collars and cuffs made from possum or dyed skunk (you
get a choice of either fur).  Make you think of the cartoon with Peppy la
Pew following the lady with the black and white stole!  LOL!

>From one of our classes, Cowgirls and Shady Ladies:
Prostitutes in western boomtowns were required by law to wear yellow
dresses.  This was to distinguish them from the average female citizens.

Now I have a trivial question... I am working on fashion designers of the
1920s.  I keep coming across a designer named Madeleine & Madeleine from
1920-1925.  I have searched my books and all I can find are design
illustrations but no history of the designer.  Could this be Vionnet?
Whoever it is, is a Paris design house.  I know Vionnet opened her design
house in 1912. But did she go under the name Vionnet then?

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jul 10 19:24:11 2002
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 19:07:00 -0400
Status: RO

Greetings All!

I was just wondering how have your spending habits changed over time while you have been costuming?  Have your spending habits gone up or down?  Also, your fabric choices; better, worse?

For me, although my fabric choices have gotten "better" (for the most part) I have gotten cheaper.  For example: I will find a beautiful fine linen, but am no longer willing to spend $15.00 a yard on it.  (And I started shopping in the LA Garment District.)

Thanks in advance for indulging my curiosity.  I am looking forward to the responses.
Kit
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jul 10 19:51:23 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Intro and Revolution In Fashion book
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 11:26:13 -0700
Status: RO

I just emailed the info address. It looks weird, but they answered within a 
day or so.

The book IS there, I just looked. It's listed at 2200 yen, which is about 
$22. There's also a video, which is 15000 yen. That's too steep for me, 
that's $150!!

At 11:01 AM 7/10/2002, you wrote:Message: 10
>From: Heather Meadows <alice@wonderland.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Intro and Revolution In Fashion book
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 10:39:23 -0700 (PDT)
>Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
>thanks for the info!  who did you email to get the book?  I emailed
>their "info" address but I wasn't sure if it was the right one.
>
>
> > > I found it at, of all places, the Kyoto Costume Institute website. They
> > > have it listed in their catalog, and I just emailed the contact person,
> > > received a reply within 24 hours, and here I am, two weeks later with the
> > > book. The best part, it cost just $30, and that included shipping from
> > > Kyoto! They said the only way they can ship it is C.O.D, which is a 
> bit of
> > > a pain because I had to wait here for the delivery, but it was so worth
> > it!
> > >
> > > Here's the address for the catalog
> > > page:  http://www.kci.or.jp/cgi-bin/catalogue.cgi?lang=e
> > > If I was able to purchase it, I'm sure anyone else who wants a copy will
> > be
> > > able to, too!
> >
> > Oh, wow, THANKS!! Btw, there's one copy on ebay now, but last time I 
> checked
> > it was up to 92$ - and they don't ship to Canada :-) Your way is MUCH
> > better!!!
> >
> > The worst thing is, I went to their website yesterday night, saw the video
> > of the same name, didn't see the book... ehehe :-)
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
>
>--__--__--
>
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>
>End of h-costume Digest

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Testing new address/funny story ot
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 16:37:11 -0700
Status: RO

You all have to laugh at me. Late last night, I added
cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net as my new email.  Then I promptly lost the paper
with my "oh so clever" password on it.  Then I spent all morning trying to
hack into my confirmation of resubbing to the list (in this total panic that
I had cut myself off from you forever)...   Result: couldn't do it and had
to add another form of cabbage_rose.  Now I have two emails, but this time
I've protected myself.  Not only did I print the dang password I select
remember it so the computer will know it at home AND then I happily confirm
my re-subscription. Am I home free? No, I'm such an idiot I promptly hid
"add to block" and put h-costume in the spam bucket.  Frantically.... I
search for the way to undo this drastic and nefarious deed ... Heart
racing... blood pounding... I hastily attempt to undo this error.  Have I
again sent H-costume into the nightmare world of silence?  Will I ever hear
from corset makers and ruff experts EVER again?  Is the world of lovely
seams and pretty fabrics forever gone?.... Okay, a bit dramatic, but I was
freaking out.  This was my third sub, and I had messed it up again.  (I
forgot I accidentally subbed to my work addy cause I was really tired this
morning, but I just didn't confirm that one)...  So then, I get it back, I
undo the dreaded "this is spam" block on the h-costume email and reload the
page... only to discover I had reblocked it!  Needless to say, if you're all
getting this, it's fixed.  Holey Moley what a day.  See what you've done?
I'm reduced to jello at the thought of going cold h-costume-less turkey for
a mere two hours... I think I was momentarily possessed by the spirit of one
of Teddy's misadventures. Happy to have found my rather roundabout way home.

angela

----- Original Message -----
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2002 3:27 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Testing new address/ot


> I see you Angela!
>
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Angela F. Lazear" <CABBAGE_ROSE@sbcglobal.net>
> To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2002 5:59 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Testing new address/ot
>
>
> > Dear List
> >
> > After some confusion and missteps, I have unsubbed
> > as "mzscahlett" and resubbed under this email.  This
> > is a test to see if I've done it all properly.  Sorry
> > for the misuse of bandwidth, but I just had to be sure
> > I hadn't lost y'all forever.
> >
> > angela
> > Cabbage Rose Costumes
> > Theatrical Costume Design
> > www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jul 10 19:54:11 2002
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From: Heather Meadows <alice@wonderland.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Intro and Revolution In Fashion book
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 "from Kiloran@worldnet.att.net at Jul 10, 2002 11:26:13 am"
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 16:37:49 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

ok -- I haven't heard back from them yet, but at least I know it was the right
address.  


> I just emailed the info address. It looks weird, but they answered within a 
> day or so.
> 
> The book IS there, I just looked. It's listed at 2200 yen, which is about 
> $22. There's also a video, which is 15000 yen. That's too steep for me, 
> that's $150!!
> 
> At 11:01 AM 7/10/2002, you wrote:Message: 10
> >From: Heather Meadows <alice@wonderland.com>
> >Subject: Re: [h-cost] Intro and Revolution In Fashion book
> >To: h-costume@indra.com
> >Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 10:39:23 -0700 (PDT)
> >Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >
> >thanks for the info!  who did you email to get the book?  I emailed
> >their "info" address but I wasn't sure if it was the right one.
> >
> >
> > > > I found it at, of all places, the Kyoto Costume Institute website. They
> > > > have it listed in their catalog, and I just emailed the contact person,
> > > > received a reply within 24 hours, and here I am, two weeks later with the
> > > > book. The best part, it cost just $30, and that included shipping from
> > > > Kyoto! They said the only way they can ship it is C.O.D, which is a 
> > bit of
> > > > a pain because I had to wait here for the delivery, but it was so worth
> > > it!
> > > >
> > > > Here's the address for the catalog
> > > > page:  http://www.kci.or.jp/cgi-bin/catalogue.cgi?lang=e
> > > > If I was able to purchase it, I'm sure anyone else who wants a copy will
> > > be
> > > > able to, too!
> > >
> > > Oh, wow, THANKS!! Btw, there's one copy on ebay now, but last time I 
> > checked
> > > it was up to 92$ - and they don't ship to Canada :-) Your way is MUCH
> > > better!!!
> > >
> > > The worst thing is, I went to their website yesterday night, saw the video
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume Trivia
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 16:24:58 -0700
Status: RO


> >From one of our classes, Cowgirls and Shady Ladies:
>Prostitutes in western boomtowns were required by law to wear yellow
>dresses.  This was to distinguish them from the average female citizens.

Every single Western boomtown, in every state and territory, in Canada and 
the US, in every year?  I find that amount of co-operation and 
co-ordination, in a time of no mass media other than a telegraph (when they 
even had that), unbelievable.


Kayta

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric Prices
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 16:40:39 -0700
Status: RO


>Have your spending habits gone up or down?

Down.  I have a lot less money than when I was married.

>   Also, your fabric choices; better, worse?

Better in several ways:

I no longer cruise fabric stores (or thrift stores) just to see what's 
there.  That got me in a lot of trouble, storage-space-wise and 
financially.  Much of that impulse stuff got given away when, for example, 
I stopped thinking I was going to get into quilting.  Many boxes of calico 
went.

I can tell the difference between natural and synthetic now, when a few 
years ago I couldn't do this very well, so now, when I do buy, I buy more 
silk, real linen, etc. than before.

I try not to buy something just because I can think of a use for it, a big 
change from my young and married days, when I would buy anything that 
was  pretty or that I could think of a use for.  Some of that fabric is my 
current stash, and some got given away.

These days I only buy fabric for specific purposes, or costumes when I have 
some event to wear it to.  I shop more sales, outlets, and thrift stores 
than I used to, and make myself do entire outfits from fabric I already 
have, as much as possible.  Time to use up that stash.

Kayta

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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 17:07:21 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO


Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:
> > >From one of our classes, Cowgirls and Shady Ladies:
> >Prostitutes in western boomtowns were required by law to wear yellow
> >dresses.  This was to distinguish them from the average female citizens.
> 
> Every single Western boomtown, in every state and territory, in Canada and 
> the US, in every year?  I find that amount of co-operation and 
> co-ordination, in a time of no mass media other than a telegraph (when they 
> even had that), unbelievable.

Agreed.  I think someone misunderstood "yellow rose of texas."  A yellow
gal or yellow girl was a creole, half-black.  They were often free women,
but that didn't mean they had much money.  In many places, yellow gals made
up most of the whorehouse "stable."  

This seems to have been concatinated with the commonly repeated factoid
that whores in classical rome wore yellow veils.  I call this a factoid
because I've also heard it said about Byzantium and various renaissance
period italian city-states.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jul 10 20:38:06 2002
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 20:21:33 EDT
Status: RO

Kayta's experiences echo my own :) 
I used to spend a lot more $$--- and shop a lot less wisely----as well as buy 
things I did'nt have a specific use for --JUST because it was gorgeous and/or 
 a good buy or it would make a TERRIFIC (fill in the blank). Can't afford to 
do that stuff anymore. Knowledge and experience has taught me to shop much 
more wisely for more quality stuff---and buy only what I have a specific use 
for in the VERY near future:)
Cheers and Best---
Albra/Kathryn
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jul 10 20:57:31 2002
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 20:40:27 -0400
Status: RO

Wait... I didn't say every boomtown.  I sent a message to our instructor,
Marna Jean and have her come on the list and explain this one.  Hang in
there... hopefully she will come on tonight.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 19:41:00 -0500
Status: RO

Oh, my choices have definitely become more refined - I REALLY try to keep to
100% natural. But I do really try to keep the prices down - watch those
sales! Actually, one of my favorite places is Vogue Fabrics in Evanston. If
you dig through their remant section, you can often find 2 or 3 pieces of
the same fabric for about 1/2 the price off the bolt!

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
Bristol,
BRF FOF

So many books, so little time

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************



----- Original Message -----
From: <kitsune242@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2002 6:07 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Fabric Prices


> Greetings All!
>
> I was just wondering how have your spending habits changed over time while
you have been costuming?  Have your spending habits gone up or down?  Also,
your fabric choices; better, worse?
>
> For me, although my fabric choices have gotten "better" (for the most
part) I have gotten cheaper.  For example: I will find a beautiful fine
linen, but am no longer willing to spend $15.00 a yard on it.  (And I
started shopping in the LA Garment District.)
>
> Thanks in advance for indulging my curiosity.  I am looking forward to the
responses.
> Kit
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Photos of 1700 costumes from the event this
  weekend
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 21:01:37 -0400
Status: RO

At 09:33 PM 7/9/2002 +0100, you wrote:
> --- Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net> wrote: > A friend of mine has
put in
>a request for pictures of enlisted personnel,
>> too <g>.
>> 
>> -- Mara
>
>personnel? *grins* red- or blackhaired?
>
>Nicole

Um... yes?  <grin> 

-- Mara

Kevin + Mara Riley

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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 21:33:59 -0400
Status: RO

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 23:41:48 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Costume College
Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com

We're going to Costume College as well.  We're teaching a class on Trims on
Saturday at 1 pm, and a limited attendance workshop on creating headpieces
and headdresses (mostly Fantasy oriented, but...) late Sunday afternoon.  I
at least will try to remember to put a red H on my badge.  If you're going
to the gala Saturday night, I will be in bright orange and yellow, and
Pierre will be in black and silver gray.

Sandy


		- I will be attending this class, and look forward to seeing you there! I
will also be at the gala, in a green "mock Fortuny" and whatever else I find
to go with it.

		- I am saving these emails and will work up a list of nametags to look
for!

		- Allison

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<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Message: 14</FONT>

<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 23:41:48 -0500</FONT>

<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>To: h-costume@indra.com</FONT>

<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>From: Pierre &amp; Sandy Pettinger =
&lt;costumrs@radiks.net&gt;</FONT>

<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Subject: [h-cost] Re: Costume College</FONT>

<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>We're going to Costume College as well.&nbsp; We're =
teaching a class on Trims on </FONT>

<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Saturday at 1 pm, and a limited attendance workshop =
on creating headpieces </FONT>

<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>and headdresses (mostly Fantasy oriented, but...) =
late Sunday afternoon.&nbsp; I </FONT>

<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>at least will try to remember to put a red H on my =
badge.&nbsp; If you're going </FONT>

<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>to the gala Saturday night, I will be in bright =
orange and yellow, and </FONT>

<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Pierre will be in black and silver gray.</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Sandy</FONT>
</P>
<BR>

<P>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <FONT SIZE=3D2>- I will be =
attending this class, and look forward to seeing you there! I will also =
be at the gala, in a green &quot;mock Fortuny&quot; and whatever else I =
find to go with it.</FONT></P>

<P>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <FONT SIZE=3D2>- I am saving =
these emails and will work up a list of nametags to look for!</FONT>
</P>

<P>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <FONT SIZE=3D2>- =
Allison</FONT>
</P>

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From: Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] EBay?
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 19:07:50 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

--- Audrey Bergeron-Morin <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Hi,
> Those of you who regularly sell on EBay, could you give me your IDs
> so I can
> take a look once in a while?
> Also, if you have AMAZING merchants you would love other people to
> buy from,
> I'd take a look...
> Thanks!
> Audrey

I have an eBay "storefront" at
http://www.stores.ebay.com/darkthreadsdesigns, and I use the id
darkthreads. I was hoping to use it to sell a wider range of costume
items, but only the belly dance gear and sewing patterns have really
taken off. 



=====
Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
http://www.darkthreads.com
Personal log: http://darkthreads.blogspot.com
"No ship will ever take you away from yourself."--Constantine Cavafy

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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 22:41:13 -0400
Status: RO

Hi, All. Sue, I have tansy all over the place, as well as false indigo. We
haven't used it as dye yet (but we will try it), but it a great strewing
herb to keep away flies (the tansy, that is). We cut it in season (which,
coincidentally, falls within fly season) and hang up bundles in the shop.
It is easy to see why our ancestors found so many coincidences in nature
(the abovementioned, as well as dockweed growing in close proximity to
nettle, etc), and attributed them to an overall system that, although
eventually found to be false, nevertheless evidences a strong correlation
between ourselves and nature. Speaking of natural dyes, I constantly amaze
folks with the display pieces we have at our historic site which, although
over 10 years old, still maintain their vivid colors. Aside from stylistic
preferences and financial considerations, I have found that, prior to
modern chemical dyeing, there was a great deal of color that could be
gotten from natural dyes. Mike T.



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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 02:52:12 +0000
Status: RO

I haven't really gotten cheaper - I've always enjoyed the bargain find. But 
the amount of fabric I buy has gone up. By that I mean the yardage has gone 
up. Where I used to only buy at most three yards, I now only have a few 
pieces that small.

As for better choices - I've cetainly gone more natural. I use linen a LOT 
more often now. Both for "costume" and for modern clothes. But then I DO 
live in Texas and can't handle heat...

Mary/Katerine

>Greetings All!
>
>I was just wondering how have your spending habits changed over time while 
>you have been costuming?  Have your spending habits gone up or down?  Also, 
>your fabric choices; better, worse?
>
>For me, although my fabric choices have gotten "better" (for the most part) 
>I have gotten cheaper.  For example: I will find a beautiful fine linen, 
>but am no longer willing to spend $15.00 a yard on it.  (And I started 
>shopping in the LA Garment District.)
>
>Thanks in advance for indulging my curiosity.  I am looking forward to the 
>responses.
>Kit
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume




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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 20:08:54 -0700
Status: RO


> Hi, All. Sue, I have tansy all over the place, as well as false
> indigo.

One of the problems in the US is that there are two kinds of tansy. 
There is tansy ragwort which is a noxious weed (because it kills 
cattle) and there is true tansy, which works well for dyeing. It's too 
bad that so many different plants have names which are similar or 
the same. 

 


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 23:08:36 -0400
Status: RO

Hi. You might want to consider Augsburg, about 45 min. west of Munich. It has the oldest intact stained glass windows in Europe in the cathedral, a Roman museum, the Fuggerei (homes built for the poor in the 16th cent.), a nice art museum
with many famous paintings, and a lot of history in and around the area. Also Rothenburg, a little north, is an intact Medieval/ Renaissance walled town and Coburg has a nice armor collection and an art museum, too, I think.  Mike T.



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From: Lynn Downward <lynnie1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume College?
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 20:37:25 -0700
Status: RO

Me too.

LynnD
(Oakland, CA)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Heather Meadows" <alice@wonderland.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 07, 2002 5:47 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume College?


> I'll be there as well!
>
> .heather.
>
>
> > Costume College (http://www.costumecollege.org/) happens every year in
Van
> > Nuys, Calif. (near LA).  It's a weekend of costume classes (both lecture
and
> > hands-on workshops) which is quite fabulous!
> >
> > Allison, I'll be there Sat. & Sun. and would be happy to meet up!  Maybe
we
> > can have an h-costume lunch?
> >
> > - Kendra
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 00:28:08 -0400
Status: RO

----- Original Message -----
From: "Heather Meadows" <alice@wonderland.com>


> ok -- I haven't heard back from them yet, but at least I know it was the
right
> address.

If you do hear from them, let me know, they haven't answered yet either.
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Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 22:55:52 -0600
Status: RO

Is that *with* an iron afterbath, or *without?*
--sue, completely enamored of tansy-dyed wool.....

Jean Waddie wrote:
> 
> N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote
> > --- Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote: > I have to say, the
> >gentlemen in their coats and wigs were definitely the
> >> spiffiest thing at the event - Huzzah!
> >>
> >> Jean
> >
> >Thanks Jean! *grins* wait till I have finished ben's coat for good and he has
> >silver lace around the shoulders (two rows) and down the sides (two rows) and
> >along the outside of the breeches (yet another two row) he's gonna be
> >glow-in-the-dark-officer.
> >hehehehe
> >
> >Nicole
> >
> We'll have to match him with someone in a tansy-dyed surcoat and see who
> glows best!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Austrian/German holiday: suggestions?
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 09:29:17 BST
Status: RO

Leigh Tartaglio <mikes@dandy.net> wrote :

> Hi. You might want to consider Augsburg, about 45 min. west of Munich. It has
> the oldest intact stained glass windows in Europe in the cathedral, a Roman
> museum, the Fuggerei (homes built for the poor in the 16th cent.), a nice art
> museum
> with many famous paintings, and a lot of history in and around the area. 

Sounds good!

http://www.hhog.de/augsburg/history.htm
and looks good! Thanks, we'll try that.


> Also Rothenburg, a little north, is an intact 
> Medieval/ Renaissance walled town

Yes, we stayed there a few years ago. Lovely!


> Coburg has a nice armor collection and an art museum, 

Right, that's on the list, too.






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Subject: [h-cost] What to embroider on a 16yh century forepart?
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 11:01:44 +0200
Status: RO


Hi,

I have a gold silk/satin forepart and I am looking for an embroidery
pattern.
The dress is from aboud 1562 and is Italian.
In Janet Arnolds Patterns of fasihon 1560-1620, on page 49, picture 347
and 348 is a nice example of a forepart.
But it is 1580-95 and probably made in England.
I have just one year to embroider it, but I am going to embroider te
part that you can see if the dress is worn over it.

Are there any books for sale with exampels of embroidered foreparts and 
the different stiches that were used?
Would this book be intresting?
Exploring Elizabethan embroidery by Dorothy Clarke
Or this book?
Embroidery in Britain From 1200 to 1750: The Victoria & Albert
                    Museum's Textile Collection
                    by Donald King, Santina Levey


Greetings,
    Deredere


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Costume trivia
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 Plus, even if it was the law somewhere, sumptuary legislation has existed for centuries, but was rarely, if ever adhered to, because of the difficulty in enforcing.
But as another piece of trivia, in the 15th (I think!) century a law was passed in England stating that all prostitutes had to wear their clothes inside out to mark out their profession (although agian, unlikely to have been enforced).
Debbie.




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<P> Plus, even if it was the law somewhere, sumptuary legislation has existed for centuries, but was rarely, if ever adhered to, because of the difficulty in enforcing.
<P>But as another piece of trivia, in the 15th (I think!) century a law was passed in England stating that all prostitutes had to wear their clothes inside out to mark out their profession (although agian, unlikely to have been enforced).
<P>Debbie.</P><p><p><br><hr size=1><a href="http://uk.yahoo.com/mail/tagline_xtra/?http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html"><b><font face="Arial" size="2">Get a bigger mailbox -- choose a size that fits your needs.</font></b></a><br><br><a href="http://uk.yahoo.com/mail/tagline_xtra/?http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html"><font face="Arial" size="2">http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html</font></a>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Photos of 1700 costumes from the event this weekend
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 10:16:53 +0100 (BST)
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 Just want to say thanks to Nicole for the pictures.  Being stuck on the traders field at the opposite end of the site I didn't get to do much costume ogling!  (Although I had a fantastic view of the WWII fashion show by The Spitfires, which was excellent.)
And Jean, had to laugh at the mental image of our lot wearing tansy surcotes.  We should definitely get them to do it (talk about glowing!)
Debbie.
  




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<P> Just want to say thanks to Nicole for the pictures.&nbsp; Being stuck on the traders field at the opposite end of the site I didn't get to do much costume ogling!&nbsp; (Although I had a fantastic view of the WWII fashion show by The Spitfires, which was excellent.)
<P>And Jean, had to laugh at the mental image of our lot wearing tansy surcotes.&nbsp; We should definitely get them to do it (talk about glowing!)
<P>Debbie.
<P>&nbsp; </P><p><p><br><hr size=1><a href="http://uk.yahoo.com/mail/tagline_xtra/?http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html"><b><font face="Arial" size="2">Get a bigger mailbox -- choose a size that fits your needs.</font></b></a><br><br><a href="http://uk.yahoo.com/mail/tagline_xtra/?http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html"><font face="Arial" size="2">http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html</font></a>
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Testing new address/funny story ot
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 10:39:07 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

> I think I was momentarily possessed by the spirit of one of Teddy's
> misadventures. 

May the Costume Gods (if any such exist!) protect all costumers 
from *that*



Teddy
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric Prices
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 12:25:55 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- kitsune242@aol.com wrote: > Greetings All!
> 
> I was just wondering how have your spending habits changed over time while
> you have been costuming?  Have your spending habits gone up or down?  Also,
> your fabric choices; better, worse?

My spending habits went up according to my financial situation. When beinga
student while working part time  a little at Uni I wouldn't have dreamt of
spending what I spend now. At the same time the quality and fabric choice has
gone up accordingly. I would NEVER use slubby dupion silk anymore, because it
is plain wrong for the period I am doing. I always use taffeta now, but I do
shop around trying to find the cheapest retailer. I hate shopping though and do
most of my purchases via the internet.
Same with woolens, we buy almost all of our wool from hainsworth now, 100% pure
wool, superfines and meltons, quite simply because with the job came the
problem of not having any time. If I go and madly sew every waking and
non-working hour for ben, then I am not using a cheap and tacky cloth.
I do though tend to overspend, but I anticipate this for any given project and
will spend next year paying off my credit card.
All in all I know EXACTLY what I want and what I do not use, and thus are able
to shop for the cheapest price of what I want. Now and then though... same with
the metal brocade for my mantua, I go 'oh sod it, gonna be broke!' and indulge
myself, knowing I'll have to pay off the minus.
I am lucky though, full time job, no kids, no mortgage, no rent even, all I
have to pay is a contribution to my food and living costs, the petrol and
insurance and tax for my car (quite a lot, petrol is so expensive here), my
private health insurance and my huge web site hosting. I am very very lucky, I
know.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: different velvets
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 07:29:06 -0400
Status: RO

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At 10:51 PM 7/9/02 -0600, you wrote:
>That looks like a lot of velvet for not very much
>money: but I now realise that my total knowledge of
>velvet is "I can't afford it" (and even that is now
>wrong!)

Velvet's become very affordable.

>Could someone advise on what these two types are,
>please? Also when they would have been used, and
>for what?

Acetate-Nylon is typically what you find being sold in Jo-Anne's for=20
$20+.  Panne is crushed velvet... looks like it's been sat on and ironed=20
that way.  It's a neat look, but not for most historical garb that I've=20
ever seen.

>(Yes, I *am* a beginner, you're absolutely right!)

*chuckle*  We all had to start somewhere!!

Vik

=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=
=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=
=B0`=B0=BA=A4
Lady Victoria's Castle Closet:
Custom Clothing and Fine Renaissance Designs
http://www.castlecloset.cc
Gallery: http://bluedragyn.net/~lvcc/castle-creations
15% discount to List Members,

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<html>
At 10:51 PM 7/9/02 -0600, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=3Dcite class=3Dcite cite>That looks like a lot of velvet fo=
r
not very much <br>
money: but I now realise that my total knowledge of <br>
velvet is &quot;I can't afford it&quot; (and even that is now <br>
wrong!)</blockquote><br>
Velvet's become very affordable.<br>
<br>
<blockquote type=3Dcite class=3Dcite cite>Could someone advise on what these
two types are, <br>
please? Also when they would have been used, and <br>
for what? </blockquote><br>
Acetate-Nylon is typically what you find being sold in Jo-Anne's for
$20+.&nbsp; Panne is crushed velvet... looks like it's been sat on and
ironed that way.&nbsp; It's a neat look, but not for most historical garb
that I've ever seen.<br>
<br>
<blockquote type=3Dcite class=3Dcite cite>(Yes, I *am* a beginner, you're
absolutely right!)</blockquote><br>
*chuckle*&nbsp; We all had to start somewhere!!<br>
<br>
Vik<br>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
<div align=3D"center">
=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=
=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=
=B0`=B0=BA=A4<br>
<font face=3D"Crusades" size=3D6 color=3D"#800080">Lady Victoria's Castle
Closet:</font> <br>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: different velvets
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 13:11:34 BST
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Victoria Wickens <windsong@broadviewnet.net> wrote :


> Acetate-Nylon is typically what you find being sold in Jo-Anne's for
> $20+.

Errm.. what's a "Jo-Anne's"? Is being sold there a good thing or a bad thing?

Although possibly the world "nylon" tells me all I need to know. Even as a beginner, I suspect that the amount of that used in medieval times was quite low. What *was* velvet made from? Cotton? And is the "real thing" even vaguely affordable now?


>Panne is crushed velvet... looks like it's been sat on and
> ironed that way.&nbsp; It's a neat look, but not for most historical garb
> that I've ever seen.

Nice for cushions, I would imagine.





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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: different velvets
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 --- jane@williams.nildram.co.uk wrote: > 
> Errm.. what's a "Jo-Anne's"? Is being sold there a good thing or a bad thing?

It's an American thing, dear. A chain of fabric stores, thus whenever you see
mails with a subject like 'Jo Anne's (insert sale/shops/offers etc)' arrives,
you can delete it straight away. :-) Same with Hancock's, or Wal mart.

> Although possibly the world "nylon" tells me all I need to know. Even as a
> beginner, I suspect that the amount of that used in medieval times was quite
> low. 

Non-existent indeed.

What *was* velvet made from? Cotton? And is the "real thing" even
> vaguely affordable now?

It was made from silk, 100% silk. Aparently one can still get tha SOMEwhere but
the price is prohibitive. Modern 'silk velvet' is usually 80% rayon (the pile)
and 20% silk (the backing) and can be dyed well and also used for burning
patterns into it.

Cotton velvet or velveteeen as many call it, is an aceptable an suitable
alternative and looks way more period than the rayon velvet. Just be careful
with some 'veveteen's' their nap is too short, looks like upholstery velvet.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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If all those places are on your list you might want to map your trip to 
follow the so called castle road. It starts in Mannheim, goes via Heidelberg 
all the way to Nuernberg.  It is a regular highway that you can drive with 
castles all along it.  Some are ruins, some are restaurants, one is a wild 
bird refuge, with falcons and eagles (I think they do a show daily), etc. 
etc.  It is a little slower traveling than on the Autobahn (German 
Expressway) but it is definitely worth it. All depends on how much time you 
have.
I did not mention it before cause you said Southern Germany/Austria area.  
Also part of this or actually a lot of it is considered Southern Germany, I 
thought it was too far from where you originally wanted to go.  As far as I 
am concerned the castle road is a trip in itself.
Because there is so many things to see that might not be necessarily in 
tourist guides.  For example outside of Mannheim towards Heidelberg is a 
little city called Ladenburg.  They found quite a few Roman remains there.  
Not as much as Trier, but still.
At the University Library in the City of Heidelberg, at the foot of the 
Heidelberg castle, is the Codex Manesse.  With a prior appointment you can 
get into the rare book section and see an ancient facsimile.  The real one is 
locked in a vault and does not get taken out unless it is an extreme 
situation or a head of State wants to see it.  If I remember correctly when I 
took some friends from the States there we were told they only take it out 
about once every 50 years.  The facsimile is several hundred years or so 
worth seeing in itself.  Plus they have several Hildegard von Bingen and 
other period texts.
The Wild Bird refuge is real close to Heidelberg as well.  As a matter of 
fact within a 20 mile radius I think there is something like 7 castles, some 
in ruins.

If you are going to Coburg you might consider going via Schweinfurt.  The 
Georg Schaefer library is there.  It has the most extend period collection 
for period book printing and printed materials, (Gutenberg Bible, 
Schaedelsche Weltchronic (3 copies) several Modelbuch, etc,) .  Within half 
an hour from Schweinfurt is Wuerzburg, with the gorgeous Bishop residence 
castle, fabulous churches, etc.
As I said before I am from Germany.  I grew up close to where the former East 
German and Tchec borders used to meet, close to Hof.  That area has a lot of 
textile industry, Spinning, weaving and garment industry.  My parents moved 
fro there to Schweinfurt. I went to college in Aschaffenburg, another city 
worth visiting (castle and summer residence) and later lived in Mannheim.  I 
have only been back stateside about 4 years.
As a matter of fact last month I was home for 12 days, because my father 
celebrated his 90th Birthday.  Since I am a member of the SCA I wrote a 
travel report  to my Kingdom while there.  It is a three part report and some 
things may not be relevant.  I will repost it to this list for a lot might be 
interesting to you as well.
Elisabeth
    
   

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>If all those places are on your list you might want to map your trip to follow the so called castle road. It starts in Mannheim, goes via Heidelberg all the way to Nuernberg. &nbsp;It is a regular highway that you can drive with castles all along it. &nbsp;Some are ruins, some are restaurants, one is a wild bird refuge, with falcons and eagles (I think they do a show daily), etc. etc. &nbsp;It is a little slower traveling than on the Autobahn (German Expressway) but it is definitely worth it. All depends on how much time you have.
<BR>I did not mention it before cause you said Southern Germany/Austria area. &nbsp;Also part of this or actually a lot of it is considered Southern Germany, I thought it was too far from where you originally wanted to go. &nbsp;As far as I am concerned the castle road is a trip in itself.
<BR>Because there is so many things to see that might not be necessarily in tourist guides. &nbsp;For example outside of Mannheim towards Heidelberg is a little city called Ladenburg. &nbsp;They found quite a few Roman remains there. &nbsp;Not as much as Trier, but still.
<BR>At the University Library in the City of Heidelberg, at the foot of the Heidelberg castle, is the Codex Manesse. &nbsp;With a prior appointment you can get into the rare book section and see an ancient facsimile. &nbsp;The real one is locked in a vault and does not get taken out unless it is an extreme situation or a head of State wants to see it. &nbsp;If I remember correctly when I took some friends from the States there we were told they only take it out about once every 50 years. &nbsp;The facsimile is several hundred years or so worth seeing in itself. &nbsp;Plus they have several Hildegard von Bingen and other period texts.
<BR>The Wild Bird refuge is real close to Heidelberg as well. &nbsp;As a matter of fact within a 20 mile radius I think there is something like 7 castles, some in ruins.
<BR>
<BR>If you are going to Coburg you might consider going via Schweinfurt. &nbsp;The Georg Schaefer library is there. &nbsp;It has the most extend period collection for period book printing and printed materials, (Gutenberg Bible, Schaedelsche Weltchronic (3 copies) several Modelbuch, etc,) . &nbsp;Within half an hour from Schweinfurt is Wuerzburg, with the gorgeous Bishop residence castle, fabulous churches, etc.
<BR>As I said before I am from Germany. &nbsp;I grew up close to where the former East German and Tchec borders used to meet, close to Hof. &nbsp;That area has a lot of textile industry, Spinning, weaving and garment industry. &nbsp;My parents moved fro there to Schweinfurt. I went to college in Aschaffenburg, another city worth visiting (castle and summer residence) and later lived in Mannheim. &nbsp;I have only been back stateside about 4 years.
<BR>As a matter of fact last month I was home for 12 days, because my father celebrated his 90th Birthday. &nbsp;Since I am a member of the SCA I wrote a travel report &nbsp;to my Kingdom while there. &nbsp;It is a three part report and some things may not be relevant. &nbsp;I will repost it to this list for a lot might be interesting to you as well.
<BR>Elisabeth
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;</FONT></HTML>

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To Everyone on the list Greetings from Elisabeth Johanna von der Flossenburg

Today is June 6, 2002.  I am writing this knowing fully well that I cannot 
mail it out until bqack in the States.  Also I brought my laptop with me due 
to the telephone systen here in Germany (wallplugs, lines, connections, etc.) 
I cannot access a line.  O well.  But I do not want to forget anything so I 
am writing it down as I go.

I have some great stuff that others may be interested in as well so I thought 
I would better share.

I arrived last Friday night very late (almost midnight) in London.  What a 
city!!!!!
We spent Saturday and Sunday visiting The British Museum and the Wallace 
Collection, as well as friends.  I partook in the pre-feast my friends were 
cooking and it was absolutely excellent.  (They wanted to try it out before 
serving it at the Lamas event).  Once again I realized how much we are really 
missing in the Statres by not being able to just walk down the street, catch 
"the tube" (underground railroad) and then walking a little ways and there 
you are at the museum with all its treasures.

Even more so I realized that when back in Germany.  On Monday early (& am) I 
continued my journey home).  Also I spent most of Monday at the Embassy in 
Frankfurt, (unfortunately going through security at London Heathrow my Alien 
Registration Card, which I kept in my passport, ended up missing during one 
of the many passport checks.  At the embassy,where I was repremanded for 
being careless, I  was given travel documents to be able to return to the 
States.  What a hazzle, but I guess I deserve that for not being more 
careful.) we finally made it to Amberg, where my in-laws live.  On the way to 
Amberg we stoppeed in Nuernberg at the Germanische Nationalmuseum, which 
unfortunately was closed But their library was open.  They had to pry me out 
of there.  I did get a copy of the article from waffen und Kostuemkunde about 
the historical find of male clothing dated 1490 -1520.  With patternsd and 
all.  Those of you who do German from this time frame please contact me I 
will share.  The patterns are of hose incl. attached feet, a doublet, a 
shirt/nightshirt (similar to the Duerer paintings, Mistress Allison, Mistress 
Michaele one can see nthe pleating/smocking!!!!!!) and a pair of sewn 
stockings.   I will translate this article as soon as I have time.  It is 32 
pages.  (Sir Reinhard and Mistress berengaria, this is the article I told you 
about),

I spent Tuesday morning in Amberg, a great little medieval city with the old 
city walls and fortifications intact, got an illustrated book about the 
"Amberger Hochzeit 1474" (Amburg Wedding in 1474) with original texts and 
illustrations.  I also found one on the history of "fire weapons", guns, by 
the Kuchenreuther family and the steal production industry in the region 
Oberpfalz starting in the 15th century.   

Tuesday afternoon came the highlight of my trip so far.  I went by train 
(45minutes) to Nuernberg andf visited the museum shop of the Germanische 
Nationalmuseum.  Yes, I would have loved to go into the museum, but rather 
than not having the time to really look at things I explored the shop.  It is 
almost like a museum in itself.  Lots of rare books.  I spent too much money 
but I will share the list with you for certain books may be of interest to 
many of you.  
I initially went there for the book : Textiler Hausrat, Kleidung und 
Haustextilien in Nuernberg 1500 - 1650.  This book has been out of print and 
she has about 6 copies left, which I reserved because various other lists I 
am on want it as well.  This book covers home textiles, clothing, hats, 
(male, female, children's) as well qas household inventories, the sale and 
resale of such, etc. Definetly recommended for the serious costumer.
Right down the line of costuming I found a book of Paintings:  Spaetgotische 
Tafelmalerei in Sachsen  (Board (???) paintings of the Late Gothik in Saxony) 
Again lots of paintings of the Cranach style clothing, lots of back views as 
well.  Great book for costumers.
A gem no longer available and I still cannot believe I found it is the book 
set:
Das Hausbuch der Mendelschen Zwoelfbruederstiftung.
This book is the Chronic of a special charitable order started by the Mendel 
family in Nuernberg in 1388, by giving old and ill males a home to spent the 
rest of their live.  The special thing about this book set is it has 
faxcimilles a depiction (drawing) of every craftsman who ever entered the 
order.  Only one member of each craft was allowed to join at a time.  Not 
only is this bookset a wealth of information as to which professions were in 
Nuernberg until what time, it also has the depictions of the craftsman 
showing clothing, tools, etc.  It is fabulous.  
Next a book that was just published but I think a must for every person 
interested in period research:  Weltchronik 1493 by Hartmann Schedel.  Again 
a faxcimile.  One of the art critics calls it the picture book of the middle 
ages/renaissance.
It is illuminated and along with the stories of the bilble gives a run down 
of which city was founded when, who rukes where, etc. etc.  It is absolutely 
great.  It is bound in velvet and I could not believe the price.  I monly 
paid 65.00 Euros (about $65).  This book can still be bought at that price 
from the museum.
I also picked up a book on West European Illuminations 8-16 Century housed at 
the Russion National Library, St. Petersburg.  This book was a whole 25 
Euros.  Unbelievable!
Furthermore I picked up the annual publication of the Germanische 
Nationalmuseum from 1991-1994, and 1996.  All have grand articles in them on 
the vqarious collections housed in the museum or on traveling exhibits.
Yesterday I came to Schweinfurt, where we celebrated my Dad's 90th Birthday.
Tomorrow I have an appointment to see the Georg and Otto Scaefer Collections 
(Old German Paintings 1400-1600 and grapgics like edgings, engravings, etc).  
Among other things I will get to actually touch embroidery pattern books from 
1563.  I am very excited.  So tomorrow will be a follow up report.
Please contact me if you want to see any of my new treasures. or for info as 
to how to get copies of the books still available.  Sorry I am running out of 
funds so i cannot get duplicates right now.
Elisabeth
  
  

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I am forwarding this to you for it has much more details than I can remember.
Elisabeth

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>I am forwarding this to you for it has much more details than I can remember.
<BR>Elisabeth</FONT></HTML>

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June 7, 2002

Today was an experiece I will not forget in a loooong time.  I was able to 
look at and touch, to leave through and read books that were printed in 
period.
I was able to go to the Otto Schaefer Library in Schweinfurt.  I had called 
and had gotten an appointment for 2 pm.  Today was the first time I regretted 
not having taken the digital camera with me.  

When I got there I had to sign in with ID Card (passport) and the whole nine 
yards.  In the guest register all the books I was going to look at were 
recorded.  

The first one was: "Ein new kunstlich Modelbuch" published by Quentell in 
Cologne, Germany in 1536.
The paper is almost comparable with some of the calligraphy paper I saw in 
the States.  The pages have yellowed slightly.  The book had a long 
explanation .as to what the designs can be used for: Embroidery, Weaving, 
Lace making.
There were designs by Duerer Holbein and Cranach.  Some very simple 
geometrics others very intricate for reticella lace.  It was wonderful.
Next I was given the Original of the Amman Trachtenbuch. The edition was 
called Gynaeceum.  Published 1586  I do have a Dover reprint, but it in no 
way does the original any justice.  The lines on the woodcuts are clear.  The 
paint as fresh as the day it was printed.  The text completely in Latin.  It 
was really hard to believe the Art and clearness of the print.  Totally 
amazing that books can actually survive this long.  I had to think odf all 
the hands that had touched this book over the years and centuries.  I can 
only hope that some of the modern art can survive as long and be in as good a 
shape.
Then I saw a Modelbuch again this one was by Sibmacher and called "Neues 
Modelbuch in Kupffer" published 1604.
It showed many heraldic motives for Cross Stitch.  Yes for Cross Stitch.  The 
charts looked exactly like modern counted cross stitch charts.  Just no 
legends for assigning colors to the symbiols.  Most of them wwere for 2 or 3 
colors.  After the cross stitch charts (heraldic beasts, arms, geometric 
designs) was an few pages for blackwork, then reticella and finally 
needlepainting.  The decriptions on several "cross stitch charts " read: 
    "Kreuzstich und franzoesischer Stich auch ins Gestrueck zu nehmen"  
    "Cross stitch and French Stitch can also be used in knitting
A complete section on designs for patterns for clocks on stockings.
It was amazing.  Today we do not do as intricate a design anymore.  It really 
shows how much more skilled these needleworkers from period were.  Through 
the technical age sooooo much knowledge and skill was lost.  It is 
unfortunate.

The next book I was shown was illustrated by Jost Amman (woodcuts) again.  It 
was a book on clothing of the clergy:  
    Ordenstrachten by Johann Adam Lonitzer, published in 1585
It briefly listed the clothing ordinances for each picture, each depicting a 
different order and rank.  It was mainly the male orders, but also a few 
female ones.  

The final original I was able to see was:
    Fabian von Auerwald's Ringerbuch published 1537
This book explains each move allowed in wrestling with the accompanying 
picture.

This book was interesting to me since each man in the illustration was 
dressed in the Landsknechrt style.  The instructiuons for each move were 
clear and concise.  
The old German  language spoken then (or better printed then) was hardly 
different from the current German.

I was in a daze. They would have let me look at other books in the vaulted 
library, if I had asked.  But by the time I had studied the ones I just wrote 
about I was overwhelmed.  
The reading room where I was is lined with books.  Most of the first editions 
from 1900 - 1950.  Only the "old" books were in the vault.  Books dating 
priror to 1900.
I was allowed to look in there.  I had imagined a small room.  WRONG!  It was 
a large room with rows and rows of bookshelves lined with books.
The books they had selected for me all dealt with fashion.  I was offered to 
look at others.  There are many many original Duerer engravings, drawings and 
edgings.  There are original fencing books, etc. etc. etc.  2 copies of the 
original Weltchronic (the one I just bought a faxcimile copy off) and more 
and more.  It was hard to believe.
It is my understanding that Mr. Otto Schaefer has one of the most extensive 
collections of printed graphics especially from the 15th and 16th Century.  
Mr. Otto Schaefer passed away 2 years ago.  About 10 years ago he opened his 
library to the public.  For a small price of 3 Euros per adult one can tour 
whichever exhibit is being shown at the time. As to being able to do what i 
was able to do one only has to make an appointment.  
They do have a web page:  www.bibliothek-otto-schaefer.de
I think many of Aethelmearc's illuminators would have been just as excited as 
I was.  Also there are few actual written documents, there are many 
illuminated printed documents and books.
Of course I bought books there as well that were published by and for the 
Otto Schaefer Library.
     3 book Set:  Duerer as storyteller
                    Duerer: the Art to "travel" in nature
                    Duerer - Heaven and Earth   

    Amor als Topograph - 500 years Amores by Conrad Celtis

    Der Buchschmuck der Sensenschmidt Bibel, Nuernberg about 1476
      depicting all  the illuminated Capital letters of the Sensenschmidt 
bible

    Kostbare Drucke und Einbaende aus 6 Jahrhunderten
    Precious prints and covers from 6 Centuries

    Einbandkunst aus sechs Jahrhunderten
    Artful Covers from 6 centuries

Tomorrow, Saturday I hope to still find the time to visit the Georg Schaefer 
Museum which is home to the Art Collection (Paintings.  Georg Schaefer 
collected mainly German Masters.  I do have a printed Catalogue of one of the 
special exhibits which were almost entirely paintings from the Cranach School 
of painters.
But since a lot of these paintings are loaned out to various museums all over 
the world I cannot hope to see that collection in its entirety.  But that 
would be overwhelming anyhow.  And I do have to spend some time with my 
father.  Afterall he is the reason I came to visit.
I am getting scared however off getting all these books home.  The suitcases 
(I brought an empty one to start out with) are getting awfully heavy.  Books 
way a ton.
But I will not leave my new treasures behind.

I know I had not mentioned it before but I did get a copy of the Schuette 
Embroidery Book, which has been out of print forever and I have been trying 
for the last 10 years to find.  It covers all the embroidery in period from 
the Bayeuz Tapestry on.  It is the Embroiderer's bible.

Well I better go, it is getting late and I need to get some sleep.
 
Anyone wanting to see any of the new books please get in touch with me 
directly.

Elisabeth
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June 8, 2002

Made it to the Georg Schaefer Museum.  It was a disappointment.  They are 
holding a Spitzweg Exhibit.  Way past our period.  All the old masters are in 
the vault, no way to see them.  O well.  I cannot win them all.  The 
remainder of the trip will be somewhat boring.  Visits with family.  I am 
looking forward to returning home.  Sure would have liked to spent more time 
in Nuernberg, but that could not be helped.  I did get to see most of what I 
wanted to see, and lots more than I expected.
This pretty mmuch concludes all interesting things from this trip.  I will 
write more once back in the States.

As I said before, anyone interested in the books I bought please contact me 
personally.  Your Excellency Baroness Liadain I got your playing cards, and I 
did get the requested items for Master Charles of Alden as well.  Please 
contact me so we can get together.

Thanks
Elisabeth

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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 07:06:13 -0600
Status: RO

I'd have to ask our local weed expert (former baron of our SCA group,
who just happens to be the Main Weed Guy for one of the counties our
barony comprises) which type of tansy this is...it grows fairly tall,
has feathery-looking leaves, and a kind of umbrella-shaped, composite
flower head (reminds me of same sort of shape as, say, queen anne's
lace, or dill), with bright yellow, round flowers no bigger than my
thumb nail.  I'm pretty sure it's the same stuff that occasionally shows
up in medieval recipes.  The plants my friends used had not yet
flowered--they're gonna try just using the flower heads later this
summer when it blooms.
We actually have a lot of problems with invasive and noxious weeds in
Montana--sometimes they're trouble just because there aren't enough
natural predators/consumers of the plant, and it spreads so rapidly that
it crowds out native vegetation, and you end up with half a hillside
that's only got one plant species on it.  Some of these are quite useful
(knapweed for honey, st. john's wort for possible medicinal uses, dyer's
woad for dyeing), but still an overall pest.  Dyer's woad, for instance,
is so bad that you can't even legally grow woad in your garden (well,
apparently you can grow something called "japanese indigo," but that's
it).  If you want to dye with indigo or woad here, you pretty much have
to import or buy the actual dyestuff.
I'm looking forward to this weekend--we have a local (SCA) event, at
which several people are going to be doing a dye-in.  I've got skeins of
prepared threads and yarns (different types of silk and wool) to add to
the dye baths--think they're doing indigo, logwood (beautiful shades of
purple), madderroot, brazilwood, maybe some osage orange, and probably
more knapweed and tansy.  I'd very much like to dye some fabric for an
outfit someday, but don't have the appropriate base fabric at the
moment, so these threads are intended primarily for embroidery and
test-bits of knitting.  Should be loads of fun!
--Sue

kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:
> 
> > Hi, All. Sue, I have tansy all over the place, as well as false
> > indigo.
> 
> One of the problems in the US is that there are two kinds of tansy.
> There is tansy ragwort which is a noxious weed (because it kills
> cattle) and there is true tansy, which works well for dyeing. It's too
> bad that so many different plants have names which are similar or
> the same.
>
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 06:27:42 -0700
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------=_NextPart_001_0002_01C228A4.0FD21910
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Hello!  I've been frantically moving since June, and have missed/deleted =
most threads because of time constraints.  However, is this thread about =
the Costume College happening in Grand Rapids, MI?  =20

Sorry to ask in mid thread...
Thanks!
Gia/Giacinta
----- Original Message -----
From: Allison Thurman
Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2002 6:39 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Costume College

Message: 14 =20
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 23:41:48 -0500 =20
To: h-costume@indra.com =20
From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net> =20
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Costume College =20
Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com =20
We're going to Costume College as well.  We're teaching a class on Trims =
on =20
Saturday at 1 pm, and a limited attendance workshop on creating headpiece=
s =20
and headdresses (mostly Fantasy oriented, but...) late Sunday afternoon. =
 I =20
at least will try to remember to put a red H on my badge.  If you're goin=
g =20
to the gala Saturday night, I will be in bright orange and yellow, and =20
Pierre will be in black and silver gray. =20
Sandy =20


                - I will be attending this class, and look forward to see=
ing you there! I will also be at the gala, in a green "mock Fortuny" and =
whatever else I find to go with it.
                - I am saving these emails and will work up a list of nam=
etags to look for! =20
                - Allison =20

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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>Hello!&nbsp; I=
've been frantically moving since June, and have missed/deleted most thre=
ads because of time constraints.&nbsp; However, is this thread about the =
Costume College happening in Grand Rapids, MI?&nbsp; </DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</=
DIV> <DIV>Sorry to ask in mid thread...</DIV> <DIV>Thanks!</DIV> <DIV>Gia=
/Giacinta</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5p=
x; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> =
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message -----</DIV> <DIV s=
tyle=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt Arial; COLOR: black"><B>From:</B>=
 Allison Thurman</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wedne=
sday, July 10, 2002 6:39 PM</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>To:<=
/B> h-costume@indra.com</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Subject:=
</B> [h-cost] Re: Costume College</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <META content=3D=
"MS Exchange Server version 6.0.4417.0" name=3DGenerator><!-- Converted f=
rom text/plain format --> <P><FONT size=3D2>Message: 14</FONT> <BR><FONT =
size=3D2>Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 23:41:48 -0500</FONT> <BR><FONT size=3D2>=
To: h-costume@indra.com</FONT> <BR><FONT size=3D2>From: Pierre &amp; Sand=
y Pettinger &lt;costumrs@radiks.net&gt;</FONT> <BR><FONT size=3D2>Subject=
: [h-cost] Re: Costume College</FONT> <BR><FONT size=3D2>Reply-To: h-cost=
ume@mail.indra.com</FONT> </P> <P><FONT size=3D2>We're going to Costume C=
ollege as well.&nbsp; We're teaching a class on Trims on </FONT><BR><FONT=
 size=3D2>Saturday at 1 pm, and a limited attendance workshop on creating=
 headpieces </FONT><BR><FONT size=3D2>and headdresses (mostly Fantasy ori=
ented, but...) late Sunday afternoon.&nbsp; I </FONT><BR><FONT size=3D2>a=
t least will try to remember to put a red H on my badge.&nbsp; If you're =
going </FONT><BR><FONT size=3D2>to the gala Saturday night, I will be in =
bright orange and yellow, and </FONT><BR><FONT size=3D2>Pierre will be in=
 black and silver gray.</FONT> </P> <P><FONT size=3D2>Sandy</FONT> </P><B=
R> <P>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <FONT size=3D2>- I will be attending this class, and l=
ook forward to seeing you there! I will also be at the gala, in a green "=
mock Fortuny" and whatever else I find to go with it.</FONT></P> <P>&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp; <FONT size=3D2>- I am saving these emails and will work up a list=
 of nametags to look for!</FONT> </P> <P>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <FONT size=3D2>- Al=
lison</FONT> </P></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 07:36:52 -0600
Status: RO

Hi, Kit.  Great question!
My fabric-shopping habits have definitely changed, somewhat for the
better, and oft times, more expensive.  (short version)
(Longer version) As I've learned more and more about historical
costuming and clothing, I've stopped buying inexpensive cottons, etc.,
and gone with linens and wools (when I can find them).  I do still
consider okay (in my SCA-related context) to use good quality cotton
velveteens and some corduroys as substitutes for some of the period,
napped fabrics, as they are my best available substitutes (even if not
what I'd *dream* of having <g>...I got to see some of the Real Thang
last fall....*drool*).
Luckily, I've never been fond of artificial fibers like polyester, etc.,
so that wasn't a fabric habit I had to break as I learned to become more
authentic in my fiber choices.
In general, I've become pickier (especially in the last couple of
years--this list has had a strong influence on me and my levels of
commitment to having more authentic clothing!), and less willing to go
with the "it's good enough for a tourney event" stuff....This may partly
explain why my costuming interests, at least for the immediate future,
have shifted from the really late renaissance stuff, to earlier cultures
(early Anglo-Saxon, which is completely Ben's fault, Nicole <g>), or
Robin's Gothic Fitted Gowns.  Someday I'll no doubt dabble in the
Elizabethans again, but right now I'm having loads of fun working with
earlier garments.  I can feed my obsessive Authenticity Jones by
concentrating on period seam finishes, sewing techniques, etc.
I prefer to buy cheap, if I can, but that's very, very difficult where I
live (Montana's about the size of Spain, but doesn't even have a million
people in it).  We have one "Jo Ann's" store in town that's largely
nasty craft junk and cheap seasonal fabrics ($2/yd. acetate taffetas at
Spring Prom time, etc.).  And that's it.  We have to go several hours,
or find it on the internet, if we want anything better.  When I started
costuming about 15 years ago, we had 5? fabric stores in town, one of
which just did wool (oh, drool.....*sigh*).  I have been so far unable
to find a good source for wools (geez, I miss the g-street fabrics
website), but have bought lots of good linens on line, and have sources
for silk, but am holding off on buying some until I get some outfits
made (I'm a pretty bad hoarder).
If I've got a specific need for fabric, though, and it's expensive, I
don't let that stop me.  Sometimes the only way to get it is to be
willing to pay for it.  My most expensive stuff (carefully folded in my
grandmother's old trunk, so I can save it by throwing it through a
window if there's ever a house fire) is this divine, scrumptious,
black-and-gold upholstery brocade I paid $25/yd for.  I will, someday,
be using it to make a reproduction of the Phoenix portrait of Elizabeth
I.
I could talk about fabrics all day (and have!), but I gotta get off this
ding-dong computer, and go to work.
Thanks for letting me talk!
--sue

kitsune242@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Greetings All!
> 
> I was just wondering how have your spending habits changed over time while you have been costuming?  Have your spending habits gone up or down?  Also, your fabric choices; better, worse?
> 
> For me, although my fabric choices have gotten "better" (for the most part) I have gotten cheaper.  For example: I will find a beautiful fine linen, but am no longer willing to spend $15.00 a yard on it.  (And I started shopping in the LA Garment District.)
> 
> Thanks in advance for indulging my curiosity.  I am looking forward to the responses.
> Kit
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 06:59:15 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

where do you find your silks online?  I'd love to find some nice
duschess satins....

.heather.


>  --- kitsune242@aol.com wrote: > Greetings All!
> > 
> > I was just wondering how have your spending habits changed over time while
> > you have been costuming?  Have your spending habits gone up or down?  Also,
> > your fabric choices; better, worse?
> 
> My spending habits went up according to my financial situation. When beinga
> student while working part time  a little at Uni I wouldn't have dreamt of
> spending what I spend now. At the same time the quality and fabric choice has
> gone up accordingly. I would NEVER use slubby dupion silk anymore, because it
> is plain wrong for the period I am doing. I always use taffeta now, but I do
> shop around trying to find the cheapest retailer. I hate shopping though and do
> most of my purchases via the internet.
> Same with woolens, we buy almost all of our wool from hainsworth now, 100% pure
> wool, superfines and meltons, quite simply because with the job came the
> problem of not having any time. If I go and madly sew every waking and
> non-working hour for ben, then I am not using a cheap and tacky cloth.
> I do though tend to overspend, but I anticipate this for any given project and
> will spend next year paying off my credit card.
> All in all I know EXACTLY what I want and what I do not use, and thus are able
> to shop for the cheapest price of what I want. Now and then though... same with
> the metal brocade for my mantua, I go 'oh sod it, gonna be broke!' and indulge
> myself, knowing I'll have to pay off the minus.
> I am lucky though, full time job, no kids, no mortgage, no rent even, all I
> have to pay is a contribution to my food and living costs, the petrol and
> insurance and tax for my car (quite a lot, petrol is so expensive here), my
> private health insurance and my huge web site hosting. I am very very lucky, I
> know.
> 
> Nicole
> 
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
> Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: marquis@kipar.org
> 
> __________________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The 1796 nettlecloth dress
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 10:01:45 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

Thank you, Fran.  Does Fred have a web site?


On Tue, 9 Jul 2002, Lavolta Press wrote:

> The photos were someone supplied appear to have been scanned in from a
> modern copyrighted book, Ellen Anderson's _Moden 1790-1840_.  This
> book includes a scale pattern of the same dress with notes.  It also
> includes 18 other scale patterns for women's and men's garments, and
> many photos including those for which no pattern is provided.  It was
> published in 1986 by the Nationalmuseet in Copenhagen. I think I
> bought mine from Fred Struthers--his email is fsbks@mcn.org.
>
> Fran Grimble

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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 10:03:57 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

On Wed, 10 Jul 2002, Penny Ladnier wrote:
> >From one of our classes, Cowgirls and Shady Ladies:
> Prostitutes in western boomtowns were required by law to wear yellow
> dresses.  This was to distinguish them from the average female citizens.

Ok, is that true, or yet another costume myth?  Sounds like someone saw
something about (medieval Italian, I think? can't remember which city or
century) prostitutes wearing yellow and extrapolated...?  Would love to
see documentation, because it just sounds fishy.

-- Mara

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric Prices
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 09:32:39 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


Add me to the list of those who buy less and better. I have been slowly
getting rid of the stash of "finds" I stocked up in my youth, when I had
less discriminating tastes (and was still using cotton). Now I buy only
linen, silk, and wool for costume use.

Alas, I'm now working one day a week at a fabric store that specializes in
linen, silk, and wool, at clearance prices, plus employee discount. So
being more discriminating hasn't necessarily brought down the *quantity*
of purchases. But I have so many riches to choose from, and a restricted
budget! I have in the last couple of months watched with equanimity as a
table of wonderful 100% linens, as low as $3/yard, has slowly disappeared.
I restricted myself to just 10 yards of red, 6 of blue, about 8 of white.
(Hmm, now it doesn't sound that restricted, does it? But there were dozens
of bolts, any of which I'd have snapped up if I'd seen it at that price as
a single find at Jo-Anns, in my pre-employee days.)

--Robin, waiting hungrily for the fall wools to arrive

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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 09:35:23 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Thu, 11 Jul 2002, Heather Meadows wrote:

> where do you find your silks online?  I'd love to find some nice
> duschess satins....

Anatol's, which is local to me, carries duchess silk satins, and I believe
they have an online presence -- try http://www.bridalfabric.com . But
they're really expensive.

--Robin

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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: different velvets
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 10:13:00 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

On Thu, 11 Jul 2002, [iso-8859-1] N Kipar wrote:
> What *was* velvet made from? Cotton? And is the "real thing" even
> > vaguely affordable now?
>
> It was made from silk, 100% silk. Aparently one can still get tha SOMEwhere but
> the price is prohibitive. Modern 'silk velvet' is usually 80% rayon (the pile)
> and 20% silk (the backing) and can be dyed well and also used for burning
> patterns into it.

I'm sure I've heard of wool velvet, for the 18th c. at least.  Am told one
can find wool velvet used for theatre seats and curtains.

Cheers,
Mara

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 "from Robin Netherton at Jul 11, 2002 09:35:23 am"
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 07:22:42 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

doesn't look like they sell it, online, in silk.  oh well.


> 
> On Thu, 11 Jul 2002, Heather Meadows wrote:
> 
> > where do you find your silks online?  I'd love to find some nice
> > duschess satins....
> 
> Anatol's, which is local to me, carries duchess silk satins, and I believe
> they have an online presence -- try http://www.bridalfabric.com . But
> they're really expensive.
> 
> --Robin
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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From: "Marna Jean" <marnajean@shootingstarhistory.com>
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 09:42:13 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, that one is my fault it is true- not in every boom town though.
 I am currently searching for the book I found it in again, BUT the original
source(for the book) was a newspaper article. I have misplaced both book and
my brain has shut down on trying to remember the title. But the story goes
thusly-

You see the ladies of a particular western town were a bit upset because the
prostitutes in town were blending a bit too well- they were afraid they(the
upstanding proper ladies) would be mistaken for the "soiled doves"(or the
doves would be mistaken for proper ladies!). So they pressured their
husbands in to making a law that the ladies be required to wear yellow bows
in their hair so everyone would know who they were (this was in the
1870's-1880's when yellow was not a particularly fashionable color- I mean
true yellow not the golden yellow) Well the "doves" decided to retaliate and
soon every girl in town was dressed in nothing BUT yellow!

 I use it as an example in my classes, because a common mistake the students
make or have it the notion that only "bad women" wore the color red. In the
1880's red was a very fashionable color- in fact most magazines from that
era will list about 3-7 shades of it in any one month!
Marna Jean(MJ)
BTW Hi, everyone! Penny invited me to come and defend her on this thread!
I'm a clothing historian/seamstress who focus on the Victorian era but
especially the Old West and the bustle periods.Glad to be here.

Doug and Marna Jean Davis
Shooting Star Enterprises
Living History & Custom Historical Clothing
http://www.shootingstarhistory.com/home.html
 oakley@access-one.com
Alternate email-
oakley@shootingstarhistory.com

Instructor for www.costumeclassroom.com -
 Victorian and Old West Era
Online Classes in History and Period Sewing
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thursday, July 11, 2002 9:05 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume Trivia


>On Wed, 10 Jul 2002, Penny Ladnier wrote:
>> >From one of our classes, Cowgirls and Shady Ladies:
>> Prostitutes in western boomtowns were required by law to wear yellow
>> dresses.  This was to distinguish them from the average female citizens.
>
>Ok, is that true, or yet another costume myth?  Sounds like someone saw
>something about (medieval Italian, I think? can't remember which city or
>century) prostitutes wearing yellow and extrapolated...?  Would love to
>see documentation, because it just sounds fishy.
>
>-- Mara
>
>_______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Fabric Prices
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 09:27:25 -0500
Status: RO

I also seem to buy less on impulse, but what I buy is better quality.  No more, "oh, that's pretty, what can I do with it, oh heck I'll get it anyway" but "100 % linen/silk/wool, at that price!?!, I can do X!" .  

Probably the biggest change is now knowing *where* to shop, and that includes online resources.  I am still a bargain hunter but I think those are thrifty habits I inherited from my depression era grandmother.  I am lucky enough to have a large space for stash (and a large cutting table, built to my height!) but even it has a few empty shelves these days.

Catherine

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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 09:49:25 -0500
Status: RO

try thaisilks.com- limited colors in the duchess satin 11 colors and $23- 30
yd
- but good service and reasonable prices on most of their stuff- some of the
brocades and velvet are rayon/silk blends but have good hand (though the
velvet is very soft!) I adore their silk/cotton batiste. Periodically I get
a backorder but not often.
MJ



>doesn't look like they sell it, online, in silk.  oh well.
>
>
>>
>> On Thu, 11 Jul 2002, Heather Meadows wrote:
>>
>> > where do you find your silks online?  I'd love to find some nice
>> > duschess satins....
>>
>> Anatol's, which is local to me, carries duchess silk satins, and I
believe
>> they have an online presence -- try http://www.bridalfabric.com . But
>> they're really expensive.
>>
>> --Robin
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: different velvets
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 09:46:02 -0500
Status: RO

mohair- not wool- slight difference one's from a sheep the other from a
goat- though I suppose one of the longwool breeds like the leicester or
cotswold might make passable velvet- I think it is still available or was a
few years back- I had a friend who was a large presence in the Angora goat
industry and she special ordered mohair velvet for her 19th century couch
and chair to be recovered in.
MJ

>
>I'm sure I've heard of wool velvet, for the 18th c. at least.  Am told one
>can find wool velvet used for theatre seats and curtains.
>
>Cheers,
>Mara
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: different velvets
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 16:08:10 BST
Status: RO

N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote :

> --- jane@williams.nildram.co.uk
> wrote: > 
> > Errm.. what's a "Jo-Anne's"? Is being sold there a good thing or a bad
> thing?
> 
> It's an American thing, dear. A chain of fabric stores,

And from the look of the context in other messages since, cheap&nasty fabric stores? Or did I misinterpret that?


> What *was* velvet made from? Cotton? And is the "real thing" even
> > vaguely affordable now?
> 
> It was made from silk, 100% silk. Aparently one can still get tha SOMEwhere
> but
> the price is prohibitive. Modern 'silk velvet' is usually 80% rayon (the
> pile)
> and 20% silk (the backing) and can be dyed well and also used for burning
> patterns into it.
> 
> Cotton velvet or velveteeen as many call it, is an aceptable an suitable
> alternative and looks way more period than the rayon velvet. Just be careful
> with some 'veveteen's' their nap is too short, looks like upholstery velvet.

Just what I wanted to know: thanks. So this amazingly cheap stuff would in fact look wrong to those who knew about these things, and I should probably avoid it.

(Just been visiting the suggested Silk sites, and drooling over the keyboard. But as yet it would not be a good idea for me to take scissors to fabric of that sort of quality and price).





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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 10:13:19 -0500
Status: RO

OH yeah, in the late 1870's cotton velvet was pretty popular- I have several
Demorest's that discuss it as being a good "wearable" item- one that did not
wear badly- eventually they started calling it velveteen about the mid
1880's but what I have read it was a bit "plusher" than most of the
velveteen is now- more like the cotton/rayon velveteen.
MJ
(p.s. please forgive for me just jumping in here- like I said my specialty
is mid-late 19th century and you are probably discussing an earlier period)
:
>> What *was* velvet made from? Cotton? And is the "real thing" even
>> > vaguely affordable now?
>
>Cheers,
>Mara
>
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 16:18:31 BST
Status: RO

Marna Jean <marnajean@shootingstarhistory.com> wrote :

> (p.s. please forgive for me just jumping in here- like I said my specialty
> is mid-late 19th century and you are probably discussing an earlier period)

I'm just trying to increase my general knowledge (starting from zero).

How far back does velvet go, anyway?





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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: different velvets
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 16:19:54 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- jane@williams.nildram.co.uk wrote: > N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
wrote :

> Just what I wanted to know: thanks. So this amazingly cheap stuff would in
> fact look wrong to those who knew about these things, and I should probably
> avoid it.

Yes, I have to admit I would take only one look and know it is wrong/synthetic,
f it is synthetic. Using the wrong materials destroys all the effort of a
costume. Start with something simpler, use natural materials which you can buy
at the re-enactors markets and multi-period events in the trader markets (the
linen is UNBELIEVABLY fanastic and cheap 4-5 quid usually) and then you don't
fear so much to do something wrong.
Which period are you doing?
Where are you in England?

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: different velvets
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 16:29:50 BST
Status: RO

Jane@williams.nildram.co.uk wrote :

> I'm just trying to increase my general knowledge (starting from zero).
> 
> How far back does velvet go, anyway?

A bit of Google hunting has found some answers to that one, but having just been advised about Ruritanian Purple Feathers, I'm taking them with a degree of caution.

12th and 13th Century Velvet:
http://www.geocities.com/Area51/Lair/5459/bliaut3.html
includes the comment "Fragments of twill and cotton velvet have been found dating back to 9th century France".
I wonder what they used it for back then? T-tunics?

http://www.costumes.org/pages/textiles/velvet.htm
suggests it goes back to the Egyptians.

And there I was thinking it was comparatively modern, being a complicated sort of thing.





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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 11:02:01 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Thu, 11 Jul 2002 jane@williams.nildram.co.uk wrote:

> > > Errm.. what's a "Jo-Anne's"? Is being sold there a good thing or a bad
> > thing?
> > 
> > It's an American thing, dear. A chain of fabric stores,
> 
> And from the look of the context in other messages since, cheap&nasty
> fabric stores? Or did I misinterpret that?

They cater mostly to quilters and crafters, with some home decorating, and
modern dress fabrics. That means a lot of cotton prints and synthetics,
mostly undesirable for historic use. But they (and the other large chain,
Hancock's) are the only local fabric source in many American towns.  
Because the clearances run nationwide and the same fabrics can be found in
many stores, people on the list like to alert others when they discover
something suitable there for historical use, particularly when it's on
sale. I always comb the local Jo-Ann's during the season clearances -- I
have many times caught the stray bolt of 100% linen or wool that the
crafters passed up.

--Robin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: different velvets
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 11:12:40 -0500 (CDT)
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On Thu, 11 Jul 2002 jane@williams.nildram.co.uk wrote:

> 12th and 13th Century Velvet:
> http://www.geocities.com/Area51/Lair/5459/bliaut3.html
> includes the comment "Fragments of twill and cotton velvet have been
> found dating back to 9th century France". I wonder what they used it
> for back then? T-tunics?

Someone on the list, a few years ago, posted some useful background on
velvet use in medieval Europe. I don't recall the sources (I probably have
them saved somewhere), but the take-home message that I committed to
memory was that the primary use for velvets before the 14th century was in
household furnishings -- e.g. bed hangings, cushions. If the velvets were
cotton, that's consistent with the idea that cottons were typically used
in household furnishing fabrics, but not in garments, in medieval Europe.
Note that I'm saying *primary* and *typical* use here. Of course there are
always exceptions.

Given all that, I would be reluctant to use velvet for clothing before the
14th centur. I would be happy to see a good source for clothing use, but I
think it's unlikely that we'll see any indication that clothing use of
velvet was at all routine or common, even among the rich, before the 14th
century or later.

The real sticking point for me is finding a suitable velvet that can pass
for a period velvet. Unless I had something very close, I think the entire
garment would suffer, so I avoid it. Since velvet wasn't exactly an
essential wardrobe fabric, I don't think I'm missing much without it.

--Robin


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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 08:55:04 -0700
Status: RO

Fred's URL is:

http://www.mcn.org/e/fsbks/HTML/fred.htm

He specializes in imported and used costume books.  However, his (large)
inventory is not online.  I am sure he will be happy to answer inquiries
and/or mail a print catalog.  I'm  not sure how much Fred would want me to
publicize this, but he will do special orders of costume books if there is
enough interest.  I often use him for special ordering from foreign vendors
and publishers who I have failed to communicate with language-wise, or who
won't accept any currency or form of payment I can give them, or I can't
find out their address--that kind of thing.  I'm not inexperienced in
foreign orders myself, but Fred is a pro at it.

Fran

Kevin & Mara Riley wrote:

> Thank you, Fran.  Does Fred have a web site?
>
> On Tue, 9 Jul 2002, Lavolta Press wrote:
>
> > The photos were someone supplied appear to have been scanned in from a
> > modern copyrighted book, Ellen Anderson's _Moden 1790-1840_.  This
> > book includes a scale pattern of the same dress with notes.  It also
> > includes 18 other scale patterns for women's and men's garments, and
> > many photos including those for which no pattern is provided.  It was
> > published in 1986 by the Nationalmuseet in Copenhagen. I think I
> > bought mine from Fred Struthers--his email is fsbks@mcn.org.
> >
> > Fran Grimble
>
>

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance


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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 09:02:24 -0700
Status: RO


> I'm sure I've heard of wool velvet, for the 18th c. at least.  Am told
> one can find wool velvet used for theatre seats and curtains.

For the 16th C as well (although the pieces that the V&A had from 
that time period looked more like upholstery weight then clothing 
weight.)

The first velvets show up in the 12th century but initially they were 
only used by the church in vestments, altar cloths and the like. 
Use for non-church clothing came a bit later.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 11:38:04 -0500
Status: RO

I seem to recall (TM) that there were some finds of Silk banding /applique
on some norse garments- the expensive/imported fabric moved
from garment to garment as the main fabric wore out..
as I use the early designs, those are easy to cut out- rectangles and
squares..
So, fear not!!
Betsy

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of jane@williams.nildram.co.uk
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2002 11:08 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Cc: jane@williams.nildram.co.uk
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: different velvets



(Just been visiting the suggested Silk sites, and drooling over the
keyboard. But as yet it would not be a good idea for me to
take scissors to fabric of that sort of quality and price).





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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 14:47:26 -0400
Status: RO

Hello all.  I unsubb'd many moons ago, but as my sewing is getting better, I
kind of miss this list....  Anyway, for those that care, I am in the SCA.
Currently, I have gotten a wild hair, and am interested in two portrait,
both by Parmigianino, the Roman Courtesan and the Turkish Slave.....

Apollonia

Apollonia Margherita
*****************************************************************
Edmund:
     It's green.
Percy:
     Yes, my lord!
Edmund:
     Percy, the colour of gold, is gold. Whatever you have discovered if it
has a name would be called green.
Percy: [on discovering the secret of alchemy]
     Oh Edmund can it be true, that I hold in my mortal hands a nugget of
purest GREEN?

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: different velvets
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 14:57:33 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

Yes, sometimes they surprise me by getting in real linen or wool -- I
recently bought some 100% wool suiting on sale, and sometimes their cotton
prints _are_ appropriate for something historical (I just found an actual
repro print in the quilting cotton racks, and found some other fabric that
looks like a plausible early 19th c. pattern).  So you never know!

I think that cotton velvet (if it's not too short-napped) is fine for
17th/18th c. costuming, in proper contexts; I've got some lovely red
cotton velvet that I found on Hancock's sale table a few years ago that is
just waiting for me to get around to cutting it into 17th c. sleeves ;D

-- Mara

On Thu, 11 Jul 2002, Robin Netherton wrote:
> They cater mostly to quilters and crafters, with some home decorating, and
> modern dress fabrics. That means a lot of cotton prints and synthetics,
> mostly undesirable for historic use. But they (and the other large chain,
> Hancock's) are the only local fabric source in many American towns.
> Because the clearances run nationwide and the same fabrics can be found in
> many stores, people on the list like to alert others when they discover
> something suitable there for historical use, particularly when it's on
> sale. I always comb the local Jo-Ann's during the season clearances -- I
> have many times caught the stray bolt of 100% linen or wool that the
> crafters passed up.
>
> --Robin

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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 15:54:34 -0400
Status: RO


----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin & Mara Riley" <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2002 2:57 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: different velvets


> Yes, sometimes they surprise me by getting in real linen or wool -- I
> recently bought some 100% wool suiting on sale, and sometimes their cotton
> prints _are_ appropriate for something historical (I just found an actual
> repro print in the quilting cotton racks, and found some other fabric that
> looks like a plausible early 19th c. pattern).  So you never know!

And right now their linens, linen-looks, and linen blends are 66% off.  I
found a bolt of 100% black heavyweight linen for $12 before discount, and
some lovely linen/cotton blends for $7 before discount in my local store.
Gotta read the bolt ends though...

Jeanne
A headon collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Austrian/German holiday: suggestions?
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 21:49:33 +0100
Status: RO

On 11 Jul 2002 at 8:53, BOSTONHAHN@aol.com 
wrote:

> 
> If all those places are on your list you might want to map your trip to follow the so called castle 
> road. It starts in Mannheim, goes via Heidelberg all the way to Nuernberg.

We may well do at least part of this.

 > I did not mention it before cause you said 
Southern Germany/Austria area. Also part of this or 
> actually a lot of it is considered Southern Germany, I thought it was too far from where you 
> originally wanted to go.

It's places we can do on the way there and on the 
way back. The trip from Calais will be a gentle 
meander rather than an attempted teleport, I think.

The information here, plus those forwarded reports, 
makes me think we might not even get to Austria :)

Thanks!

(About to find out how to switch this list to no-mail for 
a bit).



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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 13:55:51 -0700
Status: RO

I would have to agree... I know in the Italian Renaissance there was 
something similar to this (especially in Venice) involvine yellow skirts and 
yellow veils... But I don't think it was ever something in the Wild West. :)

-Laura

--------------------------
Message: 12
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 16:24:58 -0700
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume Trivia
To: h-costume@indra.com
Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com


 > >From one of our classes, Cowgirls and Shady Ladies:
 >Prostitutes in western boomtowns were required by law to wear yellow
 >dresses.  This was to distinguish them from the average female citizens.

Every single Western boomtown, in every state and territory, in Canada and
the US, in every year?  I find that amount of co-operation and
co-ordination, in a time of no mass media other than a telegraph (when they
even had that), unbelievable.


Kayta

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Jul 11 17:39:04 2002
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Pendleton wool cheap (was Re: [h-cost] Fabric Prices
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 14:22:22 -0700
Status: RO


>I have been so far unable
>to find a good source for wools

Try the Pendleton Wool outlet in Washugal, WA.  The 800 number is 
1-800-568-2480.  Call them to find out what they've got, how much it is, 
and how they can get it to you.  Feel free to pass this number around - I 
got it off their flyer in their store.

I've been there in person (it's across the river from Portland, Oregon), 
and the remnant section has bins of 1.5 to 3 yard pieces of wool fabric in 
several weights and colours.  These will cost anywhere from $1.50/yd. to 
$5/yd.  The selection of colours will be limited, so ask the person on the 
phone what they have, and how much of it there is, in how big pieces.  They 
may have anything from winter-coat-weight to summer-suit-weight.  They can 
arrange to ship your fabric to you.

They did have a couple of plaids, last time I was there, but almost all was 
solid colours in plain weave, herringbone, or twill.  I have black, dark 
blue, light blue, dark green, creamy-white, and mauve from two trips there 
(I live in California).  I didn't see much bright yellow, bright red, or 
white-white.  I didn't see any tweed.  But I did see photos of re-enactors 
who used their wool.  And I saw striped blankets similar to the Hudson Bay 
ones.





Kayta

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Jul 11 17:41:03 2002
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From: "Marna Jean" <marnajean@shootingstarhistory.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume Trivia
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 16:22:39 -0500
Status: RO

If it makes sense to you for on time/period place why not another? (just
curious and not meaning to be offensive or problematic...- maybe the ladies
got the idea from reading an Italian history? Just because one lived "out
west" in the 1880's did not mean they were uneducated or "wild" themselves)

It wasn't the dresses that they were required to wear it was yellow
hairbows- they wore the dresses out of retaliation.  I swear upon my honor
it was taken from a newspaper account in a book I read- but unfortunately it
was before I developed my survival instinct of being able to quote exactly
where I found stuff at, and was 2 moves and a divorce ago when I did that
particular research. I will eventually "refind" it but my time is rather
pressed at the moment. I've been fighting the "red dress" myth for years
now.

Unlike Hollywood I spend a large portion of my time researching the late
Victorian era- and the old west women's clothing in particular. I don't
think this one is myth- we were discussing how different areas had different
ways to distinguish "parlour houses" and "soiled doves" and how Hollywood
gets so much of the saloon/brothel bits wrong. One lady's grandmother said
in their area brothels were required to have a slate framed in barnwood on
the outside of the house. Then there was the "red light" requirement in some
districts. Proper women in the west generally stayed away from poodle dogs
because it was a favorite among the soiled doves who carried them when they
wen on their "advertisement" strolls...
Just a different way in each local to recognize those who were not accepted
into the community as equals...
MJ


>I would have to agree... I know in the Italian Renaissance there was
>something similar to this (especially in Venice) involvine yellow skirts
and
>yellow veils... But I don't think it was ever something in the Wild West.
:)
>
>-Laura
>
>--------------------------
>Message: 12
>Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 16:24:58 -0700
>From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume Trivia
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
>
> > >From one of our classes, Cowgirls and Shady Ladies:
> >Prostitutes in western boomtowns were required by law to wear yellow
> >dresses.  This was to distinguish them from the average female citizens.
>
>Every single Western boomtown, in every state and territory, in Canada and
>the US, in every year?  I find that amount of co-operation and
>co-ordination, in a time of no mass media other than a telegraph (when they
>even had that), unbelievable.
>
>
>Kayta
>
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>
>
>
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Photos of 1700 costumes from the event this weekend
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 22:33:41 +0100
Status: RO

Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote
>Is that *with* an iron afterbath, or *without?*
>--sue, completely enamored of tansy-dyed wool.....

I think the best glow comes from the plutonium afterbath :-)  (sorry, 
I'm not the dyer, I have absolutely no idea!)

Jean

>
>Jean Waddie wrote:
>>
>> N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote
>> > --- Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote: > I have to say, the
>> >gentlemen in their coats and wigs were definitely the
>> >> spiffiest thing at the event - Huzzah!
>> >>
>> >> Jean
>> >
>> >Thanks Jean! *grins* wait till I have finished ben's coat for good 
>> >and he has
>> >silver lace around the shoulders (two rows) and down the sides (two 
>> >rows) and
>> >along the outside of the breeches (yet another two row) he's gonna be
>> >glow-in-the-dark-officer.
>> >hehehehe
>> >
>> >Nicole
>> >
>> We'll have to match him with someone in a tansy-dyed surcoat and see who
>> glows best!
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: different velvets
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 22:40:16 +0100
Status: RO

Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote
>
>On Thu, 11 Jul 2002 jane@williams.nildram.co.uk wrote:
>
>> 12th and 13th Century Velvet:
>> http://www.geocities.com/Area51/Lair/5459/bliaut3.html
>> includes the comment "Fragments of twill and cotton velvet have been
>> found dating back to 9th century France". I wonder what they used it
>> for back then? T-tunics?
>
>Someone on the list, a few years ago, posted some useful background on
>velvet use in medieval Europe. I don't recall the sources (I probably have
>them saved somewhere), but the take-home message that I committed to
>memory was that the primary use for velvets before the 14th century was in
>household furnishings -- e.g. bed hangings, cushions. If the velvets were
>cotton, that's consistent with the idea that cottons were typically used
>in household furnishing fabrics, but not in garments, in medieval Europe.
>Note that I'm saying *primary* and *typical* use here. Of course there are
>always exceptions.
>
>Given all that, I would be reluctant to use velvet for clothing before the
>14th centur. I would be happy to see a good source for clothing use, but I
>think it's unlikely that we'll see any indication that clothing use of
>velvet was at all routine or common, even among the rich, before the 14th
>century or later.
>
>The real sticking point for me is finding a suitable velvet that can pass
>for a period velvet. Unless I had something very close, I think the entire
>garment would suffer, so I avoid it. Since velvet wasn't exactly an
>essential wardrobe fabric, I don't think I'm missing much without it.
>
>--Robin
>
Just off the top of my head, I can't picture anything that would hang 
right in velvet earlier than that 14th century date.  The first thing I 
can imagine is maybe the very late, very structured sideless surcoats 
with fur edging. When you get on to things like houppelandes and V-neck 
gowns, then you can start to imagine velvet works with that much heavier 
look.

Jean

-- 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: different velvets
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 22:31:20 +0100
Status: RO

Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote
>
>On Thu, 11 Jul 2002 jane@williams.nildram.co.uk wrote:
>
>> > > Errm.. what's a "Jo-Anne's"? Is being sold there a good thing or a bad
>> > thing?
>> >
>> > It's an American thing, dear. A chain of fabric stores,
>>
>> And from the look of the context in other messages since, cheap&nasty
>> fabric stores? Or did I misinterpret that?
>
>They cater mostly to quilters and crafters, with some home decorating, and
>modern dress fabrics. That means a lot of cotton prints and synthetics,
>mostly undesirable for historic use. But they (and the other large chain,
>Hancock's) are the only local fabric source in many American towns.
>Because the clearances run nationwide and the same fabrics can be found in
>many stores, people on the list like to alert others when they discover
>something suitable there for historical use, particularly when it's on
>sale. I always comb the local Jo-Ann's during the season clearances -- I
>have many times caught the stray bolt of 100% linen or wool that the
>crafters passed up.
>
>--Robin
>
I'm surprised to hear most towns are so short of fabric shops - since I 
was completely stunned to find fabric in Wal-Mart in the middle of 
Connecticut last year.  Fabric in a supermarket? (We needed to do quick 
curtains for the windows in the front and side doors of our rented 
apartments - a yard of fabric and a bit of masking tape was OK for a 
week or two).  And in one mall in Quebec there were three shops selling 
cloth and knitting yarn. Fabric shops in the UK are generally specialist 
and found down obscure side-streets - never, ever in a mall!  Was I just 
very fortunate in the places I went?

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: "Marna Jean" <marnajean@shootingstarhistory.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: different velvets
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 17:07:33 -0500
Status: RO

speaking of awl-mart fabrics ours has started carrying real 100% cotton
sateen- (very useful for bustle era- don't know about earlier) in about 7
colors! Surprised me!
MJ

- since I
>was completely stunned to find fabric in Wal-Mart in the middle of
>Connecticut last year.  >--
>Jean Waddie
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: different velvets
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 17:32:43 -0500 (CDT)
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On Thu, 11 Jul 2002, Jean Waddie wrote:

> I'm surprised to hear most towns are so short of fabric shops - since
> I was completely stunned to find fabric in Wal-Mart in the middle of
> Connecticut last year.  Fabric in a supermarket? (We needed to do
> quick curtains for the windows in the front and side doors of our
> rented apartments - a yard of fabric and a bit of masking tape was OK
> for a week or two).  And in one mall in Quebec there were three shops
> selling cloth and knitting yarn. Fabric shops in the UK are generally
> specialist and found down obscure side-streets - never, ever in a
> mall!  Was I just very fortunate in the places I went?

Yes and no.  In general, the independent fabric store in the U.S. seems to
be as scarce now as the independent bookstore. They were common enough 10
years ago, but more and more of them are folding, either because of
competition from chains, declining sales (fewer people are sewing these
days), or general ill climate for small businesses. If you've got one in
your town, it's a thing to treasure.

Wal-Mart is a different sort of case. It's not what we would call a
supermarket (a term we use for large food stores that also sell soaps,
drugs, sundries, and other household consumables). Wal-Mart falls into the
category of "discount department store," and brings up the cheapest end of
that classification. The chain built its success by bringing mass-market
goods at low prices to small towns and other areas that did not have large
shopping centers and a broad selection of stores. Wal-Mart located its
large retail stores on low-priced property just outside town, offering a
one-stop shop for a large range of useful things -- clothes, hardware,
toys, household goods -- at prices made possible only by high-volume sales
and chain-store scale. (This created a great deal of ill will among small
downtowns, whose smaller, more specialized shops often died from the
competition of the Wal-Mart down the road.)

Anyway, in areas where the nearest fabric store might be an hour away, or
there might be only a single tiny specialty shop, Wal-Mart became the
chief source of fabric. The stores in less-populated areas thus often have
a large fabric department, with a selection catering to the needs of the
home crafter/sewer: basic low-priced fabrics for casual and family
clothing, quilting supplies, curtain materials, thread and tools, basic
craft items.

In more urban areas where fabric is easier to come by, Wal-Mart is not the
consumer's top choice for fabric shopping, so those stores often have a
smaller fabric department or none at all. (In my metro area, I might pick
up thread at Wal-Mart while I'm shopping there for something else, but I
don't go there specifically for fabric, unless maybe I need cheap cotton.)

As to mall stores, a few of the U.S. fabric store chains (So-Fro, Piece
Goods) were often located in malls, but I see less and less of those these
days. Most of the ones I know are in older malls and are well-established.
The idea of three fabric stores in one mall does surprise me. Remember,
too, there's a great difference between the mall culture of North America
and that of the UK. We also have a large presence of "strip centers" --
collections of stores, often parallel to a road with a shared parking lot,
that provide the advantage of clustered stores without the parking
problems or expensive architecture of malls. Fabric stores often are
located in these groupings.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Austrian/German holiday: suggestions?
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Another thing you might want to consider on your way to Germany from Calais:
France has many EXPENSIVE toll roads.  You might want to consider going via 
Belgium and the Netherlands.  You would end up close to Aachen when you come 
into Germany.  It is further mileagewise, but it might pay considering the 
tolls!  When we used to go to England that is the route we used to take, but 
I also have to admit we were able to use military gas coupons in the 
Netherlands which also made a major difference on gas prices.  So before 
mapping out your route check the Gad Prices as well as the toll costs.

Should you decide to go that route you must check out Aachen.  It is the city 
where the Emperors of The Roman Empire were crowned (Charles the great as we 
Germans call him, etc.)  It is worth the time.  Not sure about which museums 
there, but I am sure there are some you would not want to miss.

Some other places on that route to check put would be Gent and Brugge.  
(Bobbin Lace, etc.)

Now I really gave you something to think about.  Sorry.  How much time do you 
have?  You also might try to post questions to the Drachenwald Mailing List.  
Drachenwald is the name of the European SCA "Kingdom", which does encompass 
Europe, South Africa, Turkey and Israel.  There are groups everywhere who can 
tell you about the museums etc. in the various towns.  Specially the ones 
that are a little of the beaten track.  
As I said before I am from Southern Germany, so I am not as familiar with the 
Northern parts.

I am not trying to push SCA here, but this is one way how to get lots of info 
from locals.

Good Luck.  Have fun.  I think you will be extremely busy!!!!!
Elisabeth

--part1_5b.2a9993fc.2a5f5f6e_boundary
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Another thing you might want to consider on your way to Germany from Calais:
<BR>France has many EXPENSIVE toll roads. &nbsp;You might want to consider going via Belgium and the Netherlands. &nbsp;You would end up close to Aachen when you come into Germany. &nbsp;It is further mileagewise, but it might pay considering the tolls! &nbsp;When we used to go to England that is the route we used to take, but I also have to admit we were able to use military gas coupons in the Netherlands which also made a major difference on gas prices. &nbsp;So before mapping out your route check the Gad Prices as well as the toll costs.
<BR>
<BR>Should you decide to go that route you must check out Aachen. &nbsp;It is the city where the Emperors of The Roman Empire were crowned (Charles the great as we Germans call him, etc.) &nbsp;It is worth the time. &nbsp;Not sure about which museums there, but I am sure there are some you would not want to miss.
<BR>
<BR>Some other places on that route to check put would be Gent and Brugge. &nbsp;(Bobbin Lace, etc.)
<BR>
<BR>Now I really gave you something to think about. &nbsp;Sorry. &nbsp;How much time do you have? &nbsp;You also might try to post questions to the Drachenwald Mailing List. &nbsp;Drachenwald is the name of the European SCA "Kingdom", which does encompass Europe, South Africa, Turkey and Israel. &nbsp;There are groups everywhere who can tell you about the museums etc. in the various towns. &nbsp;Specially the ones that are a little of the beaten track. &nbsp;
<BR>As I said before I am from Southern Germany, so I am not as familiar with the Northern parts.
<BR>
<BR>I am not trying to push SCA here, but this is one way how to get lots of info from locals.
<BR>
<BR>Good Luck. &nbsp;Have fun. &nbsp;I think you will be extremely busy!!!!!
<BR>Elisabeth</FONT></HTML>

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From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Pendleton wool cheap (was Re: [h-cost] Fabric Prices
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 17:26:54 -0500 (CDT)
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There are Pendleton outlets all over the country.  The two in Nebraska
usually charge $1/lb for their reminants (which tend to be in pieces 2
yards long or less, though I did luck out on one eight yard royal purple
herribone twill that had some dye flaws I can cut around)) and their rolls
range from $3 to $6/yd.  They also have finished goods, including blankets
and clothing, both overstocks and seconds, all discounted.

Emma

On Thu, 11 Jul 2002, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
>
> Try the Pendleton Wool outlet in Washugal, WA.


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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 19:11:20 -0400
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Does anyone know of one anywhere near Florida?  I could only find the ones
in Oregon listed on the website.
Moira


>
> There are Pendleton outlets all over the country.

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: Pendleton wool cheap (was Re: [h-cost] Fabric Prices
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 16:13:56 -0700
Status: RO


>There are Pendleton outlets all over the country.

Woo hoo!

>The two in Nebraska
>usually charge $1/lb for their reminants (which tend to be in pieces 2
>yards long or less, though I did luck out on one eight yard royal purple
>herribone twill that had some dye flaws I can cut around)) and their rolls
>range from $3 to $6/yd.  They also have finished goods, including blankets
>and clothing, both overstocks and seconds, all discounted.


Kayta

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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 16:12:40 -0700
Status: RO


>If it makes sense to you for on time/period place why not another?

Because just because it could have happened doesn't prove that it did happen.

>(just
>curious and not meaning to be offensive or problematic...- maybe the ladies
>got the idea from reading an Italian history? Just because one lived "out
>west" in the 1880's did not mean they were uneducated or "wild" themselves)

Trying not to be offensive or problematic too.  And nobody ever said these 
women were uneducated.  My family, in the wilds of the Territory of Montana 
in the 1880s, were as well read as they could manage.

>I swear upon my honor
>it was taken from a newspaper account in a book I read- but unfortunately it
>was before I developed my survival instinct of being able to quote exactly
>where I found stuff at, and was 2 moves and a divorce ago when I did that
>particular research. I will eventually "refind" it but my time is rather
>pressed at the moment.

I believe you read something a while ago, and that only makes me want you 
to find it so we all can see it.  I would, for example, like to find out 
which town, and which year, this article mentioned.

Kayta

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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 21:14:44 -0400
Status: RO


Ditto what Robin said. I just thought I'd add that another good way to look
at Wal-Mart (a store I hate) is that it's sort of a mini-mall all in itself.
The US had "variety stores" for decades, but Wal-Mart took the idea a whole
level up by building truly giant stores that sold/sell everything you might
possibly want, at inexpensive prices. So Wal-Marts are rather like small
grocery stores, small clothing stores, small toy stores, small automotive
stores, small fabric and craft stores, etc. all rolled into one.

One of the SCA groups in our Barony (we're very unusual in that we have six
groups) is located in a very small farm town in Northwest Ohio. The members
get all their fabric at Wal-Mart. And while their clothes aren't exactly
reenactment level, they have a wonderful time and they are searching for
bargains. If they had to deal with a small-town independent store, I imagine
that they would end up paying a lot more for the same sort of goods.

Gail Finke


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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 21:08:41 -0500
Status: RO


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I don't know if this will help, but www.silkconnection.com has heavy 
bridal satin (23 mm).

Karen

Robin Netherton wrote:

>On Thu, 11 Jul 2002, Heather Meadows wrote:
>
>>where do you find your silks online?  I'd love to find some nice
>>duschess satins....
>>
>
>Anatol's, which is local to me, carries duchess silk satins, and I believe
>they have an online presence -- try http://www.bridalfabric.com . But
>they're really expensive.
>
>--Robin
>
>_______________________________________________
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<html>
<head>
</head>
<body>
I don't know if this will help, but <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://www.silkconnection.com">www.silkconnection.com</a> has heavy bridal
satin (23 mm).<br>
<br>
Karen<br>
<br>
Robin Netherton wrote:<br>
<blockquote type="cite" cite="mid:Pine.LNX.4.10.10207110933190.14266-100000@shell.nightowl.net">
  <pre wrap="">On Thu, 11 Jul 2002, Heather Meadows wrote:<br><br></pre>
  <blockquote type="cite">
    <pre wrap="">where do you find your silks online?  I'd love to find some nice<br>duschess satins....<br></pre>
    </blockquote>
    <pre wrap=""><!----><br>Anatol's, which is local to me, carries duchess silk satins, and I believe<br>they have an online presence -- try <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.bridalfabric.com">http://www.bridalfabric.com</a> . But<br>they're really expensive.<br><br>--Robin<br><br>_______________________________________________<br>h-costume mailing list<br><a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com">h-costume@mail.indra.com</a><br><a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume">http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume</a><br><br></pre>
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Subject: [h-cost] flax
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 20:39:05 -0500
Status: RO

I mostly lurk, and I got a little behind reading, but I do remember someone
asking for a source of flax seed in small quantities.

Please contact me privately.

I've grown flax and I've spun flax, but I've not spun my own home grown flax
(yet).   We have wild nettle weeds here, but I've not managed to harvest any
to try and prepare it for spinning (yet).

We also have hemp here, and I have spun hemp, but it was from a commercial
source. In the USA it is a crime to have hemp plants in your possession,
regardless of the intended use. The hemp that grows here (Iowa) is escaped
varieties of cultivated rope hemp that was grown by farmers prior to WWII (I
believe) and isn't any good for smoking anyway. So I'm told.  :-)

Ozzie
landofoz@netins.net

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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 23:19:09 -0500
Status: RO

Robin Netherton wrote:

> from a practical standpoint, it's a royal nuisance to use a toilet when
> you're wearing underwear beneath long, full skirts, and that nuisance
> would be compounded to near impossibility with a chamberpot. By contrast,
> without the encumbrance of underwear, chamberpot use in full skirts would
> be simple -- straddle and squat.

My great-grandmother (born 1899) told me a story of when she was a
girl.  She had to work in the potato fields in Maine and wore long
skirts.  She said they didn't wear underwear because it made it easier
to relieve themselves in the field without having to walk over to
bushes.

--Charlene

-- 
An education isn't how much you have committed to memory, or even how
much you know.  It's being able to differentiate between what you know
and what you don't.  --Anatole France
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Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: [SCA-U] CONF: Elizabeth's Body
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 17:29:40 -0700
Status: RO

This is NOT a costume conference, but I thought it might interest someone!

>Date:         Thu, 11 Jul 2002 08:53:55 -0400
>From: Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@UVM.EDU>
>Subject:      [SCA-U] CONF: Elizabeth's Body
>To: SCA-UNIVERSITAS@LIST.UVM.EDU
>
>We are seeking a third panelist for a session on "Elizabeth's Aging 
>Body" to be proposed for *Elizabeth R.*, the conference 
>commemorating the 400th anniversary of the death of Queen Elizabeth 
>I to be held 21-23 March 2003 at Southern Illinois University 
>Edwardsville.
>
>We welcome papers that address representations of Elizabeth's body
>during the last decade of her reign, and/or in the immediate aftermath of her
>death.  Topics might include the "mask of youth" or other 
>constructions of Elizabeth's
>body in the propaganda of her later reign, visual or verbal 
>descriptions of the
>queen's body as subject or not subject to time, discussions of 
>specific funeral or posthumous depictions, and/or the cultural 
>effects of the queen's aging on conceptions of the political or 
>natural body.
>
>Please send abstracts (250-300 words) by 26 July to:
>Cora Fox <cora.fox@asu.edu>, and Richelle Munkhoff <rmunkhof@tulane.edu>
>----------------------------
>Richelle Munkhoff
>Assistant Professor
>Department of English
>Tulane University
>New Orleans, LA 70118
>504-862-8171 (o)
>504-862-8958 (f)
>rmunkhof@tulane.edu


-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Austrian/German holiday: suggestions?
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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 08:46:34 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- BOSTONHAHN@aol.com wrote: > Another thing you might want to consider on
your way to Germany from Calais:
> France has many EXPENSIVE toll roads. 

I personally don't find them that expensive, but then I live in England... and
I fully agree if you go to Germany, don't go via France if you come from
Calais, but definitely via Belgium (use the Amsterdam route, not the Brussels
and Liege one, unless it is late at night. Brussels ringroad is even more
congested usually than Amsterdam) That's the route I always take, can you tell?
:-)

 You might want to consider going via 
> Belgium and the Netherlands.  You would end up close to Aachen when you come 
> into Germany. 

Oh yes, oh yes! Go and see Aachen! See Charlemagne's magnificent cathedral, go
and have a fantastic coffee and warm apple strudel with vanilla ice and cream
in the Alt Aachener Kaffeestuben right to the left of the medieval town hall in
the town square. And please, plaese, give a greeting to Aachen from an
expatriat who loved Aachen very much for the 12 years of living there.

 It is further mileagewise, but it might pay considering the 
> tolls! 

Hmm.. I actually find it not too bad, but then I always go via Aachen anyway. I
also agree that you should definitely pay a visit to Bruge and to Ghent if
possible. The rest of Belgium is, let's say, flat and deadly boring. :-)

 When we used to go to England that is the route we used to take, but 
> I also have to admit we were able to use military gas coupons in the 
> Netherlands which also made a major difference on gas prices.  So before 
> mapping out your route check the Gad Prices as well as the toll costs.

hehehe, once again I can only say, when you live in England you consider petrol
prices CHEAP everywhere else. 

> Should you decide to go that route you must check out Aachen.  It is the city
> where the Emperors of The Roman Empire were crowned (Charles the great as we 
> Germans call him, etc.)  It is worth the time.  Not sure about which museums 
> there, but I am sure there are some you would not want to miss.

The Couven museum is nice, and the treasure, you HAVE to see the cathedral
treasure, they have changing exhibitions of textiles there! The Suermondt
Ludwig museum is nice too. Don't forget to buy Aachener chocolate Printen.
*drools* and you MUST have some Belgian fries with Belgian mayonnaise before
you get to Aachen. Oh my, it's only early morning and I am already thinking
about the great continental food.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: different velvets
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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 08:48:27 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote: >

> cloth and knitting yarn. Fabric shops in the UK are generally specialist 
> and found down obscure side-streets - never, ever in a mall!  Was I just 
> very fortunate in the places I went?

Ha, I can contradict you, there is a small one in the Chatham Pentagon shopping
centre (something like a nmart I'd say) 
:-)))

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Speaking of weeds....
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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 09:28:43 +0100
Status: RO

Sue wrote:
>>>I'd have to ask our local weed expert which type of tansy this is...it grows fairly tall, has feathery-looking leaves, and a kind of umbrella-shaped, composite flower head (reminds me of same sort of shape as, say, queen anne's lace, or dill), with bright yellow, round flowers no bigger than my
thumb nail.  

Sounds like the tansy I know. The flowers are like little yellow buttons. I don't think we have tansy ragwort in the UK, but presumably it is so called because it belongs to the ragwort family but looks rather like tansy.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Subject: [h-cost] Jo Anns and Wal Mart
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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 08:04:55 -0500
Status: RO

We are lucky to have two of the big Jo Ann's Etc. in my area, altho they are on opposite sides of town.  There are two smaller ones nearer to where I live.  Availability of a particular fabric seems to be hit or miss, found some great linen blends left at one, nothing but bright or pastels at the others.  Just means I have to visit them all on a regular basis to keep up with the inventory :).

Wal-Mart has moved into town as well and sometimes they have some *great* bargains on the $1 or $2 tables.  One year I made a killing on lightweight washable wool :).  These bargains seem to be fewer and far between however and the new super Wal-Mart that open about a year and a half ago only has the pre-measured fabric, no cut-to-order on the bolts, yuk!

Catherine

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: fabric stores, was: different velvets
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 I do look in the fabric department of every Wal-Mart that I happen to be in. You just never know what you're going to find on the dollar a yard racks. I've gotten 10 yards of a 60" wide black linen blend, 7 yards of a 36" wide moss green linen blend--treasures like that. And it's a great place if you're dressing teenagers for Pennsic (SCA)--2 weeks of camping means loads of clothing, especially for 2 girls!
The reason that you're seeing fewer Piece Goods stores is that they were bought by Jo-Ann's several years ago. I also seem to remember that So-Fro has gone under too (all of the local ones have been gone for at least 5 years).
I just hate going into the Jo-Ann's ETC. The fabric's overpriced and the clerks don't know where anything is outside of their own department. When Jo-Ann's got ready to open the ETC, they closed all of their other local stores. Aside from the ETC and Wal-Mart, there's nothing within an hour's drive in any direction from my house. The closest Hancock's is about 1-1/4 hours east of here.
I did write to Hancock and suggested that they might want to consider opening a store in the area, but they said that they'd done a study and it just wasn't viable. I do think it's odd that there are NO Hancock stores in the area, though. They are in Cleveland (North), Youngstown (East), and in Columbus (2.5 hours South). Hmph! I think that they're afraid of Jo-Ann's--Jo-Ann's corporate headquarters are a little over an hour from here. But that's just my personal opinion. 
kate
  Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote: 
*snip*
In more urban areas where fabric is easier to come by, Wal-Mart is not the
consumer's top choice for fabric shopping, so those stores often have a
smaller fabric department or none at all. (In my metro area, I might pick
up thread at Wal-Mart while I'm shopping there for something else, but I
don't go there specifically for fabric, unless maybe I need cheap cotton.)

As to mall stores, a few of the U.S. fabric store chains (So-Fro, Piece
Goods) were often located in malls, but I see less and less of those these
days. Most of the ones I know are in older malls and are well-established.
The idea of three fabric stores in one mall does surprise me. Remember,
too, there's a great difference between the mall culture of North America
and that of the UK. We also have a large presence of "strip centers" --
collections of stores, often parallel to a road with a shared parking lot,
that provide the advantage of clustered stores without the parking
problems or expensive architecture of malls. Fabric stores often are
located in these groupings.

--Robin




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<P> I do look in the fabric department of every Wal-Mart that I happen to be in. You just never know what you're going to find on the dollar a yard racks. I've&nbsp;gotten 10 yards of a 60" wide black linen blend, 7 yards of a 36" wide moss green linen blend--treasures like that. And it's a great place if you're dressing teenagers for Pennsic (SCA)--2 weeks of camping means loads of clothing, especially for 2 girls!
<P>The reason that you're seeing fewer Piece Goods stores is that they were bought by Jo-Ann's several years ago. I also seem to remember that So-Fro has gone under too (all of the local ones have been gone for at least 5 years).
<P>I just hate going into the Jo-Ann's ETC. The fabric's overpriced and the&nbsp;clerks don't know where anything is outside of their own department.&nbsp;When&nbsp;Jo-Ann's got ready to open the ETC, they closed all of their other local stores. Aside from the ETC and Wal-Mart, there's nothing within an hour's drive in any direction from my house. The closest Hancock's is about 1-1/4 hours&nbsp;east of&nbsp;here.
<P>I did write to Hancock and suggested that they might want to consider opening a store in the area, but they said that they'd done a study and it just wasn't viable. I do think it's odd that there are NO Hancock stores in the area, though. They are in Cleveland (North), Youngstown (East), and in Columbus (2.5 hours&nbsp;South). Hmph! I think that they're afraid of Jo-Ann's--Jo-Ann's corporate headquarters are a little over an&nbsp;hour from here. But that's just my personal opinion. 
<P>kate
<P>&nbsp; <B><I>Robin Netherton &lt;robin@shell.nightowl.net&gt;</I></B> wrote: 
<P>*snip*<BR>In more urban areas where fabric is easier to come by, Wal-Mart is not the<BR>consumer's top choice for fabric shopping, so those stores often have a<BR>smaller fabric department or none at all. (In my metro area, I might pick<BR>up thread at Wal-Mart while I'm shopping there for something else, but I<BR>don't go there specifically for fabric, unless maybe I need cheap cotton.)<BR><BR>As to mall stores, a few of the U.S. fabric store chains (So-Fro, Piece<BR>Goods) were often located in malls, but I see less and less of those these<BR>days. Most of the ones I know are in older malls and are well-established.<BR>The idea of three fabric stores in one mall does surprise me. Remember,<BR>too, there's a great difference between the mall culture of North America<BR>and that of the UK. We also have a large presence of "strip centers" --<BR>collections of stores, often parallel to a road with a shared parking lot,<BR>that provide the advantage of clustered stores witho!
ut the parking<BR>problems or expensive architecture of malls. Fabric stores often are<BR>located in these groupings.<BR><BR>--Robin<BR></P><p><br><hr size=1><b>Do You Yahoo!?</b><br>
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 Interesting. A few years ago Wal-Mart was thinking about changing all of their stores to pre-cuts only. There was such an overwhelmingly negative response from the public that they decided against doing it.
I hope that they're not changing their mind.
kate
  Catherine Kinsey <Ckinsey@kumc.edu> wrote: 
Wal-Mart has moved into town as well and sometimes they have some *great* bargains on the $1 or $2 tables. One year I made a killing on lightweight washable wool :). These bargains seem to be fewer and far between however and the new super Wal-Mart that open about a year and a half ago only has the pre-measured fabric, no cut-to-order on the bolts, yuk!



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<P> Interesting. A few years ago Wal-Mart was thinking about&nbsp;changing all of their stores to pre-cuts only. There was such an overwhelmingly negative response from the public that they decided against doing it.
<P>I hope that they're not changing their mind.
<P>kate
<P>&nbsp; <B><I>Catherine Kinsey &lt;Ckinsey@kumc.edu&gt;</I></B> wrote: 
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">
<P>Wal-Mart has moved into town as well and sometimes they have some *great* bargains on the $1 or $2 tables. One year I made a killing on lightweight washable wool :). These bargains seem to be fewer and far between however and the new super Wal-Mart that open about a year and a half ago only has the pre-measured fabric, no cut-to-order on the bolts, yuk!</P></BLOCKQUOTE><p><br><hr size=1><b>Do You Yahoo!?</b><br>
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Subject: [h-cost] Swedish terminology, Bocksten man?
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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 16:22:23 +0200 (CEST)
Status: RO

I'm reading Margareta Nockert's _Bockstenmannen och hans dräkt_ these 
days, and although I understand most of it fine since I speak Norwegian, 
I'm stumped when it comes to specialized terms for types of stitches and 
suchlike. (Also, so much of my research comes from English books that 
I know English terminology better on some points - hopeless when I'm 
talking to other Norwegians. :) ) So I was wondering if anyone out there 
could translate a few things for me? The words I'm wondering about are: 
smygsöm
förstygn
efterstygn
kaststygn

also, I'm not positive that I understand how the seams are finished:

"Alla sömmar, utom de där stadkant ligger mot stadkant, är sydda med 
dubbla sömmar. Tygstyckerna har först satts ihop, sedan har båda 
sömsmånerna vikts åt samma håll och sytts ned mot tyget. Fållarna längs 
nederkant, ärmlinningar och halsrigning är sydda med enkel vikning. 
Vilken typ av stygn som använts till de olika sömmarna är svårt att 
bedömma på grund av det stora antalet stygnmärken i tyget. Möjligen har 
sömmarna sytts ihop med för- eller efterstygn och sedan har sömsmånerna 
sytts ned mot tyget med förstygn eller kastestygn. Vid återmonteringen 
syddes alla sömmar med smygsöm og sömsmånerna kastades fast åt det håll 
de strävade. Fållerna gick til skillnad mot sömmarna att sy i de 
ursprungliga stygnhålen. De har sannolikt varit sydda med kaststygn, 
vilket också gjordes vid återmonteringen."

The way I read this, both seam allowances have been double-folded 
together and turned to the same side, while the hems are single-folded. 
Or are the seam allowances single-folded as well? Also, I'm wondering if 
there's any other documentation from around this period for both seam 
allowances being turned down together and not separately - the book 
isn't clear on whether the seam allowances were just put back the way 
they were assembled i 1936 or if there was any change. It does say that 
the seam allowances were sewed down together in the direction they 
leaned (strävade), but that may well be from more than 35 years of being 
bent that way. I don't have access to any of the sources she lists for 
stitches right now, so I thought I'd ask. :)

Ingrid

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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 09:50:49 -0700
Status: RO

I recently discovered this web site:

Janeliunas Jewelry
http://www.jansjewells.com/reproduction.htm

They sell Victorian and Art Deco reproductions, originals (see their
home page), and supplies and findings. I ordered two of their
Victorian repro pieces, which I have not yet received.  The pictures,
at least, look stunning. The site owner is very helpful. I don't want
to pierce my ears, so I only buy earrings that have screw backs (or
that I can have converted to them).  She contacted the manufacturer,
then offered me a choice of two styles of screw back fastenings they
can put on for me.  She says she still has more pieces to put up on
her site, though they may be for her Art Deco line.

Fran

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Subject: [h-cost] Another source for reproduction jewelry
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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 10:11:17 -0700
Status: RO

The London Victorian Ring Company
http://www.london-victorian-ring.com/

I have never bought from this company.  Their stock is "fine" jewelry,

only rings are shown, and they probably sell mostly to the bridal
market.  The styles shown are Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Deco.
They are quite attractive--and possibly some list members are about to

get married.

Fran

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: different velvets
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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 10:42:39 -0700
Status: RO


> I'm surprised to hear most towns are so short of fabric shops - since
> I was completely stunned to find fabric in Wal-Mart in the middle of
> Connecticut last year.  Fabric in a supermarket? (We needed to do
> quick curtains for the windows in the front and side doors of our
> rented apartments - a yard of fabric and a bit of masking tape was OK
> for a week or two).  And in one mall in Quebec there were three shops
> selling cloth and knitting yarn. Fabric shops in the UK are generally
> specialist and found down obscure side-streets - never, ever in a
> mall!  Was I just very fortunate in the places I went?

Oh, yes. Over the last several years we have lost a lot of our fabric 
stores. More and more of them are going to fabrics which are really 
not good for much but curtains or quilts.

Now, my main "fabric run" consists of Mill Ends, Fabric Depot, a 
couple of JoAnn's, the Pendleton woolen mill and maybe a side trip 
to one of the more esoteric places such as Josephine's Dry Goods, 
Daisy Kingdom, Calico Corners Interiors or The Whole Nine Yards.

It used to be that I also had June's Dry Goods in Lake Oswego 
(who carried a completely different line of stuff than Josephine's 
who is very upscale), Jennie's Yardstick in Beaverton, Fabricland 
(several), Hancock's (several) and another one who's name is 
escaping me right now. These were all huge stores with interesting, 
large inventories. That's in less than 10 years that they have 
disappeared. (Some bought out then abandoned, some retired.)

It appears that the "home sewer" is less common and less 
descriminating, so there is no "need" for so many fabric stores. 
Also, there's a lot of on-line stuff with whom they can't compete. It 
won't be long before all we'll have is the out of the way tiny places 
when you want to actually touch and see the drape of a piece of 
fabric before you buy it. (Touching a sample will help, but no tiny 
piece is going to tell me the drape and hand of a particular piece.)


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Subject: Re: Pendleton wool cheap (was Re: [h-cost] Fabric Prices
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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 10:42:39 -0700
Status: RO


> Try the Pendleton Wool outlet in Washugal, WA.  The 800 number is
> 1-800-568-2480.  Call them to find out what they've got, how much it
> is, and how they can get it to you.  Feel free to pass this number
> around - I got it off their flyer in their store.
> 
> I've been there in person (it's across the river from Portland,
> Oregon), and the remnant section has bins of 1.5 to 3 yard pieces of
> wool fabric in several weights and colours.  These will cost anywhere
> from $1.50/yd. to $5/yd.  The selection of colours will be limited, so
> ask the person on the phone what they have, and how much of it there
> is, in how big pieces.  They may have anything from winter-coat-weight
> to summer-suit-weight.  They can arrange to ship your fabric to you.

As a regular Washougal customer (it's about a 15 minute drive from 
my house), I don't know if I'd trust them to ship it to me. Since the 
fabrics are all irregulars, you don't know whether you will be getting 
the stuff which is only irregular because it is 1" too wide or too 
narrow, or whether you will get stuff with great hunken holes all the 
way along it. I watch them like a hawk when it is rolled out, since 
sometimes the hole will appear at just the wrong minute.

Most of the time lately, the cost is $3 a yard but you can 
sometimes get a full 20yard bolt. They have some special stuff 
(usually weird brocades) for $10 a yard. While it is an excellent 
source, I don't feel that it's wise to shop for this one shipped 
without looking at it first, unless they give you some sort of 
guarentee. (Frankly, the bolts are so inexpensive these days that I 
just don't bother with the remnants. When I want wool, I usually 
want a minimum of 6 yards at a time.)



Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: fabric stores, was: different velvets
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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 10:10:50 -0700
Status: RO


>The reason that you're seeing fewer Piece Goods stores is that they were 
>bought by Jo-Ann's several years ago. I also seem to remember that So-Fro 
>has gone under too (all of the local ones have been gone for at least 5 
>years).

I used to work at New York Fabrics (unrelated to the state of New York), 
and quit shortly after Jo-Anns bought them out.  The first thing they did 
was rip out the carpet, and our feet started hurting right after that.  I 
haven't willingly been in a Jo-Anns since.  But that's ancient 
history.  (Fortunately there are other fabric stores in my area.)

Kayta

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: fabric stores, was: different velvets
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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 12:02:26 -0700
Status: RO

I live in Los Angeles the San Fernando Valley. The only fabric stores we 
have in the Valley are JoAnn's. The ETC store is interesting, but I 
absolutely loathe the smaller stores. They've closed a lot of them, and the 
few that are left are expensive, badly stocked, and staffed (mostly) 
arrogant incompetents. That pretty much reflects the attitude of the 
company itself, I feel. I really hate shopping there, but I can't run 
downtown every time I need a spool of thread, or a yard of ribbon. About 
the only worthwhile thing at JoAnns is their periodic sale on patterns when 
they sell all patterns except Vogue for 99 cents. I know I'm lucky to live 
reasonably close to downtown Los Angeles and the garment district there. I 
can't imagine what I'd do if the only access to fabric I had was JoAnns. 
That's a scary thought!

We've got two WalMarts, but they're both the "town" version, with very 
limited fabric supplies. I check there every time I'm in one, but I've 
never found anything particularly special there.

The nearest Hancocks to me is about 50 miles away. Idon't think I've ever 
been in one. I did write to them suggesting this area was ripe and ready 
for a Hancocks, especially since JoAnns has closed so many stores in the 
Valley. After about 4 months they responded and said their location scout 
was going to be in Southern California in the near future and did I have 
any specific areas to suggest they look at. I emailed detailed specifics 
(there's a brand new mall opened in Burbank, that's absolutely huge, and is 
the perfect place for a fabric store) so we'll see if anything happens. I 
mean, the Valley alone has a population of 1.6 million people - three 
regular JoAnn's and one ETC store is not enough! There's plenty of room for 
competition. Maybe if there WERE some competition JoAnns would be forced to 
clean up their act.

Julie

At 11:02 AM 7/12/2002, you wrote:
>Message: 1
>Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 06:25:19 -0700 (PDT)
>From: kj green <macailith@yahoo.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] Re: fabric stores, was: different velvets
>Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
>--0-868670239-1026480319=:45385
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
>
>  I do look in the fabric department of every Wal-Mart that I happen to be 
> in. You just never know what you're going to find on the dollar a yard 
> racks. I've gotten 10 yards of a 60" wide black linen blend, 7 yards of a 
> 36" wide moss green linen blend--treasures like that. And it's a great 
> place if you're dressing teenagers for Pennsic (SCA)--2 weeks of camping 
> means loads oof clothing, especially for 2 girls!
>The reason that you're seeing fewer Piece Goods stores is that they were 
>bought by Jo-Ann's several years ago. I also seem to remember that So-Fro 
>has gone under too (all of the local ones have been gone for at least 5 years).
>I just hate going into the Jo-Ann's ETC. The fabric's overpriced and the 
>clerks don't know where anything is outside of their own department. When 
>Jo-Ann's got ready to open the ETC, they closed all of their other local 
>stores. Aside from the ETC and Wal-Mart, there's nothing within an hour's 
>drive in any direction from my house. The closest Hancock's is about 1-1/4 
>hours east of here.
>I did write to Hancock and suggested that they might want to consider 
>opening a store in the area, but they said that they'd done a study and it 
>just wasn't viable. I do think it's odd that there are NO Hancock stores 
>in the area, though. They are in Cleveland (North), Youngstown (East), and 
>in Columbus (2.5 hours South). Hmph! I think that they're afraid of 
>Jo-Ann's--Jo-Ann's corporate headquarters are a little over an hour from 
>here. But that's just my personal opinion.
>kate
>   Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
>*snip*
>In more urban areas where fabric is easier to come by, Wal-Mart is not the
>consumer's top choice for fabric shopping, so those stores often have a
>smaller fabric department or none at all. (In my metro area, I might pick
>up thread at Wal-Mart while I'm shopping there for something else, but I
>don't go there specifically for fabric, unless maybe I need cheap cotton.)
>
>As to mall stores, a few of the U.S. fabric store chains (So-Fro, Piece
>Goods) were often located in malls, but I see less and less of those these
>days. Most of the ones I know are in older malls and are well-established.
>The idea of three fabric stores in one mall does surprise me. Remember,
>too, there's a great difference between the mall culture of North America
>and that of the UK. We also have a large presence of "strip centers" --
>collections of stores, often parallel to a road with a shared parking lot,
>that provide the advantage of clustered stores without the parking
>problems or expensive architecture of malls. Fabric stores often are
>located in these groupings.
>
>--Robin

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From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Swedish terminology, Bocksten man?
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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 15:14:52 -0700
Status: RO

>I'm reading Margareta Nockert's _Bockstenmannen och hans dräkt_ these
>days, and although I understand most of it fine since I speak Norwegian,
>I'm stumped when it comes to specialized terms for types of stitches and
>suchlike. (Also, so much of my research comes from English books that
>I know English terminology better on some points - hopeless when I'm
>talking to other Norwegians. :) ) So I was wondering if anyone out there
>could translate a few things for me? The words I'm wondering about are:
>smygsöm

>förstygn
>efterstygn
>kaststygn


Unfortunately, none of these happen to be in the Swedish booklet on 
medieval embroidery I have -- although it confirms that both "-söm" 
and "-stygn" seem roughly equivalent to "-stitch" in the sense of 
identifying a particular type of sewing (which you probably already 
knew).  But just on the off chance that this may be useful to someone 
else, the booklet is "Prydnadssömmar under medeltiden" by Anne Marie 
Franzen (Kungl. Vitterhets Historie och Antikvitets Akademien, 
Stockholm, 1997).  The stitch names (which have accompanying 
diagrams) are:

Stjälksöm -- stem stitch
Klyvsöm -- split stitch
Plattsöm -- seems to include a couple things we'd distinguish in 
English, including satin stitch and a couple I don't know the names 
or off the top of my head (a satin-type stitch, but where you just 
catch under a thread at the end of each stitch, leaving virtually no 
thread showing on the back; and a sort of back-stitch producing two 
rows of offset straight stitches -- I ought to know the name of this 
one)
Atlassöm -- this is a satin stitch done in rows with each row 
slightly overlapping the neighboring ones (with the stitches going in 
between those of the next row, not splitting them)
Schattersöm -- this is what I think is called "short and long", i.e., 
like the previous, but with stitches of irregular lengths, especially 
used when shading
Korssöm -- cross-stitch; the diagram shows a short-armed cross-stitch
Tvistsöm -- the diagram shows a fairly tightly worked herring-bone 
stitch done in close-packed rows, maybe even in a counted-thread 
fashion, the accompanying pictures show it being used to solidly 
cover the ground fabric.  It's unclear to me how much of this is part 
of the definition of the stitch.The work _almost_ looks like a 
long-armed cross stitch, but the diagram shows herringbone very 
clearly.
Förstygn och rutsöm -- from the diagram and photographs, this seems 
to be describing counted double-running stitch (i.e. "Holbein 
stitch") work
Vävsöm -- counted pattern darning
Neddragen läggsöm -- underside couching
Vanlig läggsöm -- topside couching; the diagram and photo both show 
the couching done in patterns, but it's unclear that the name of the 
stitch necessarily implies this
Dubbel läggsöm -- laid-and-couched work
Lasursöm -- or nué; i.e., patterned topside couching where the 
couching thread "shades"  the metallic thread


So, totally useless for the immediate question, but maybe useful to 
someone else.


>also, I'm not positive that I understand how the seams are finished:
>
>"Alla sömmar, utom de där stadkant ligger mot stadkant, är sydda med
>dubbla sömmar. Tygstyckerna har först satts ihop, sedan har båda
>sömsmånerna vikts åt samma håll och sytts ned mot tyget. Fållarna längs
>nederkant, ärmlinningar och halsrigning är sydda med enkel vikning.
>Vilken typ av stygn som använts till de olika sömmarna är svårt att
>bedömma på grund av det stora antalet stygnmärken i tyget. Möjligen har
>sömmarna sytts ihop med för- eller efterstygn och sedan har sömsmånerna
>sytts ned mot tyget med förstygn eller kastestygn. Vid återmonteringen
>syddes alla sömmar med smygsöm og sömsmånerna kastades fast åt det håll
>de strävade. Fållerna gick til skillnad mot sömmarna att sy i de
>ursprungliga stygnhålen. De har sannolikt varit sydda med kaststygn,
>vilket också gjordes vid återmonteringen."
>
>The way I read this, both seam allowances have been double-folded
>together and turned to the same side, while the hems are single-folded.
>Or are the seam allowances single-folded as well? Also, I'm wondering if
>there's any other documentation from around this period for both seam
>allowances being turned down together and not separately - the book
>isn't clear on whether the seam allowances were just put back the way
>they were assembled i 1936 or if there was any change. It does say that
>the seam allowances were sewed down together in the direction they
>leaned (strävade), but that may well be from more than 35 years of being
>bent that way. I don't have access to any of the sources she lists for
>stitches right now, so I thought I'd ask. :)

If it's any help, when I was researching constructional sewing in 
archaeological clothing, by far the "default" seam for joining woolen 
fabric on structural seams was something that comes out looking a bit 
like a flat felled seam, except that the sewing is overcasting along 
the folded edge, rather than a running stitch through all the layers. 
That is, the fabric goes something like:

____________________
      ______     ________|
     |______________________

with each folded edge overcast to the other fabric.  I'm wondering if 
this could possible correlate with "double-folded together and turned 
to the same side".  Although it's from an earlier century, Hägg's 
book on the textiles from Hedeby has some fairly exhaustive diagrams 
of the variety of constructional stitches found in that material, and 
some of them seem to involve a "sew right sides together, then 
flatten the allowance and top-stitch" type of approach.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Swedish terminology, Bocksten man?
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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 16:36:47 -0700
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>>I'm reading Margareta Nockert's _Bockstenmannen och hans dräkt_ these

>>Unfortunately, none of these happen to be in the Swedish booklet on 
>>medieval embroidery I have

I am going to archive your list for the future.  I may find a book on 
Swedish ethnic embroidery some day, at which time the list will be invaluable.

The closest I ever got to Scandinavian stitches, in their native language, 
was a book on crochet, written in Finnish (in the 1960s, so the crochet 
bridal crowns in it are historical costume).  I managed to parse out the 
basics from the how-to section in the first few pages.  Between that, and 
the really great close-up pictures, I can sort-of crochet in that language.


Kayta

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On Thu, 11 Jul 2002 13:11:34  
 jane wrote:
>Victoria Wickens <windsong@broadviewnet.net> wrote :
>
>
>> Acetate-Nylon is typically what you find being sold in Jo-Anne's for
>> $20+.
>
>Errm.. what's a "Jo-Anne's"? Is being sold there a good thing or a bad thing?
>

A American fabric/craft store chain.  As they are a modern fabric store the usefulness of their fabric for historical costuming varies and what proportion of their stock is useful varies from store to store.

>Although possibly the world "nylon" tells me all I need to know. >Even as a beginner, I suspect that the amount of that used in >medieval times was quite low. What *was* velvet made from? Cotton? >And is the "real thing" even vaguely affordable now?
>

IIRC it was made out of silk, I don't know when cotton velvet (velveteen) became avalible.  Dharma Trading Company (www.dharma.com) sells silk/rayon velvet (silk pile, rayon ground) for $10/yard iirc.  I haven't seen 100% silk velvet, so I don't know how it compares.

-Katie
---
 I was actually at Woodstock. That was a weird gig. I fed off a flowerperson, and I spent 
the next six hours watchin' my hand move.
-Spike












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Greetings all!

I've got a new email address!  I've got the old one still, but that will =
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Looking forward to continuing reading this list!
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Oh wow...

Thai Silks has put their inventory online, with swatches and online =
ordering and everything!  This may be really bad for my bank account...

http://www.thaisilks.com/

- Kendra


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swatches and online ordering and everything!&nbsp; This may be really =
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
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Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 06:34:45 -0400
Status: RO

At 04:22 PM 7/11/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>If it makes sense to you for on time/period place why not another? (just
>curious and not meaning to be offensive or problematic...- maybe the ladies
>got the idea from reading an Italian history? Just because one lived "out
>west" in the 1880's did not mean they were uneducated or "wild" themselves)

I don't think that's the problem...  I guess what we're reacting to is the
tendency for someone to hear one thing (i.e., one Western town did this)
and apply it to the whole of the West, or America, or all time: anyone
wearing a yellow dress is a prostitute.  But one can hardly help someone
else taking a snippet of misunderstood information and running with it!

-- Mara
Kevin + Mara Riley

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume Trivia
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Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 07:07:05 -0700
Status: RO


> >If it makes sense to you for on time/period place why not another? (just
> >curious and not meaning to be offensive or problematic...- maybe the ladies
> >got the idea from reading an Italian history? Just because one lived "out
> >west" in the 1880's did not mean they were uneducated or "wild" themselves)
>
>I don't think that's the problem...  I guess what we're reacting to is the
>tendency for someone to hear one thing (i.e., one Western town did this)
>and apply it to the whole of the West, or America, or all time: anyone
>wearing a yellow dress is a prostitute.  But one can hardly help someone
>else taking a snippet of misunderstood information and running with it!

Or one can acquire the habit of recognizing imprecision when one sees it, 
again, and double-checking at that point.  I really like to know what I am 
talking about, so I ask a lot of questions to that end.  I like being able 
to claim to 'know' things.  And the older I get the less often I am able to 
make that claim, and the more questions I ask.  So I'd really like, for 
example, to read the article this person read about the wearing of yellow 
by prostitutes, because if it could have happened, maybe this is the place 
it did happen.  Archaic laws are find-able, if one knows where to look, and 
if I have a town and date to target, maybe I can find this one.  Then I can 
claim to know about one law in one town in one set of years.

(I'm trying to work out an idea here, so bear with me as I try to define it 
so you know what I'm thinking.)  Different people have different concepts 
of preciseness.  Two people will look at thing 'a' and thing 'b' and have 
differing opinions on how closely they correspond, point-to-point.  One 
will say 'they're alike', and the other will say 'they differ in the 
following respects'.  Some are used to a certain amount of imprecision, and 
will say 'they did this back then'.  Others will have learned to say 'this 
group did this one thing on or about this date', or 'I read an article that 
claimed this group did this one thing on or about this date'.  One will say 
'it's close enough', and the other will say 'it's not very close because of 
this or that detail'.

How precisely a reproduced historical costume corresponds with a surviving 
historical example, be it a painting or an actual garment, is an example of 
what I am thinking here.  For example, one docent says 'that looks old 
timey', and is satisfied with the correspondence.  Another docent, tape 
measure in hand, will say things like 'the sleeves are not wide enough', 
etc., and will not be satisfied with the correspondence.

It is not my intention to get rude here and call people names.  But it is 
my intention to point out imprecision if I think I see it, in my quest for 
a little more preciseness in my own 'act' (as in, 'clean up my own 
act').  I do re-enactment in the various 'Wild West' periods, have heard 
several rumors about yellow and prostitutes, and would like to have an 
actual historical fact to add to the next conversation I hear about this topic.

Kayta

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume Trivia
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Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 07:09:43 -0700
Status: RO


> >If it makes sense to you for on time/period place why not another? (just
> >curious and not meaning to be offensive or problematic...- maybe the ladies
> >got the idea from reading an Italian history? Just because one lived "out
> >west" in the 1880's did not mean they were uneducated or "wild" themselves)
>
>I don't think that's the problem...  I guess what we're reacting to is the
>tendency for someone to hear one thing (i.e., one Western town did this)
>and apply it to the whole of the West, or America, or all time: anyone
>wearing a yellow dress is a prostitute.  But one can hardly help someone
>else taking a snippet of misunderstood information and running with it!

I just finished the long-winded version, and sent it, so now the 
short-winded version comes to me clear:  I wanted to know, and she didn't 
tell me at all precisely, and I still want to know.


Kayta

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Jul 13 11:31:39 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] different velvets/finding fabric
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Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 10:17:22 -0500
Status: RO

In the states unfortunately it seems to be where you live.  Here in Missouri
you can find fabric in Walmart, its a discount store/supermarket.  The main
fabric stores in the St Louis area are Hancock's, JoAnn's, and a few locally
owned/run such as FashionFabrics, Jackmann's, Eunice Farmer, Anatol's, Sew I
Seams.  And, yes years ago, there were a few fabric stores in the malls.
But then department stores like Penney's and Sear's used to have fabric
departments up til about the mid to late 70's.

Genie

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Jul 13 11:34:40 2002
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Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 10:20:45 -0500
Status: RO

Robin, 

you give a much better description than I did.

Genie
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From: "Maggie Secara" <maggiros@hotmail.com>
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Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 13:06:33 -0700
Status: RO

In other words, we're back to "Ruritanians wore purple feathers on St. 
Elstrid's Day." :)

MaggiRos


>From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume Trivia
>Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 07:07:05 -0700
>
>
>> >If it makes sense to you for on time/period place why not another? (just
>> >curious and not meaning to be offensive or problematic...- maybe the 
>>ladies
>> >got the idea from reading an Italian history? Just because one lived 
>>"out
>> >west" in the 1880's did not mean they were uneducated or "wild" 
>>themselves)
>>
>>I don't think that's the problem...  I guess what we're reacting to is the
>>tendency for someone to hear one thing (i.e., one Western town did this)
>>and apply it to the whole of the West, or America, or all time: anyone
>>wearing a yellow dress is a prostitute.  But one can hardly help someone
>>else taking a snippet of misunderstood information and running with it!
>

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Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 17:12:31 -0400
Status: RO

Okay, this was my fault for reading something fast and not quoting it.  I
was just trying to lighten things up on the list with some trivia.  I tend
to scan read, and messed this one up.  My apologies to all.

I can understand about Marna Jean not having the source on hand since it was
research from years ago.  It would be nice to have the source, especially
since I research color, but I can understand losing documentation and in
your earlier days of not documenting something properly.

Many of the old timers on the list, knew that I was compiling color names
and trends over 18 fashion periods.  I had a database with over 3,000 colors
names and was planning to write a book with the information.  I documented
even down to the library that I found the source.  Sadly, my computer
crashed two years ago and I lost the entire database.  We could find
everything backed up from the computer but the database.  I was so upset and
still am.  I worked three years on this project and lost it all.  The only
thing that I have left is my first Excel sheets with 6 months of research.
The spreadsheet cut off the sources of the colors. EK!  Now, I remember a
lot of the names and trends but do not remember the sources.  Should I never
speak of my findings because I no longer have a list of the documentation
sources?  I hope not.  Since the crash, I had no inspiration to work on my
research again.  I was really heartbroken.  Last weekend, I found some old
disks and searched each one praying there was a copy of my database.  No
luck!  This past week, I received a Paris designer book from the 1922, that
provides lots of fashion color names for the major designers.  So this has
given me a little inspiration to maybe add to what is left of my research.

BTW, yes, I have learned to backup any project that I am working on.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Subject: [h-cost] OT: My novel!
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Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 15:07:32 -0700
Status: RO

I know this is off-topic, but I just have to share this with you all!  I 
just got off the phone with a small publisher I happen to know, and well, 
they want to publish my first novel!  Complete details of covers, design, 
pub date and all that are still pending, but wheeeeeee!!!  I'm SO excited, I 
can't stand it!!!

Doing the Happy Dance in L.A. Wheeeeeee!

MaggiRos
Obligatory costume content: Everyone in the novel wears 17th century 
clothes, many of which are taken directly from pictures posted on Nicole 
Kipar's website. :)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: My novel!
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Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 23:25:12 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Maggie Secara <maggiros@hotmail.com> wrote: > 
> MaggiRos
> Obligatory costume content: Everyone in the novel wears 17th century 
> clothes, many of which are taken directly from pictures posted on Nicole 
> Kipar's website. :)

Ohhhh, the honour, the honour! 
Congratulations maggiRos!

Nicole - happy to be of service *grins*

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: [h-cost] Kyoto Costume Institute (WAS: Intro and Revolution In Fashion book)
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Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 15:27:14 -0700
Status: RO

I'm assuming everyone found the Kyoto Costume Institute's digital
collections, but in case you didn't, they have some great photos of costumes
from their collection at:

http://www.kci.or.jp/collection/collset-e.html

- Kendra



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From: "Marna Jean" <marnajean@shootingstarhistory.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume Trivia
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Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 19:07:46 -0500
Status: RO

I know it is very nice to have the source- once again- I mainly introduced
the fact into my class because most ladies will quote the "proper ladies
don't wear red" thing back at you when you ask about  "proper" and
"improper" Victorian clothing- its one of those reenactorisms that someone
started and is hard to overthrow. I mearly told them that the only color I
knew that had been associated with prostitutes in that era was yellow- and
that one town had made a law requiring yellow hairbows and the "doves"
retaliated by wearing all yellow.  So if they were going to pick a "color"
for the soiled doves they would be more correct to pick yellow than to pick
red. I did also state that the upper class prostitutes would also be most
likely to be pretty well dressed the same as the proper ladies of town.

Something that comes up in several sources is proper ladies trying to make
sure that the soiled doves were set apart from them. Therefore, when I did
the original research,- the yellow bow thing did not seem out of the
ordinary. I did make particular note of it at the time because we were
writing a skit for competition that revolved around the ladies and saloon
girls interaction in a town- so that's why it stuck and why I'm quite sure I
didn't "mis-remember"- sadly I don't have access to the library that I know
I got the original book from- (or I'd just go browse the shelves)and it was
a small country library to boot- so no interlibrary loan, etc., etc....


I too, am very fond of being able to "know" something or at least where to
look for it- and it upsets me greatly I can not find the book again (I can
tell you which ones it is NOT in on the subject!- I re-read several here
lately to "refresh my memory" in preparation for class- ha!)

I am a big fan of "on the average"- something a lot of reenactors of my
period like to leave out and don't like to "prove something" with just one
quote or source(otherwise I have this tintype of this wild looking hairstyle
from the early bustle era). However, because this was such a hushed
profession it makes any information all that much harder to find. It is
rather tooth grinding to research, and what I have found is most towns in
the old west instead of totally outlawing prostitution, had a tendency to
tax and fine it heavily and make all manner of rules and regulations- some
quite bizarre- In 1868 in San Antonio Texas the "town fathers" literally
"drove" the prostitutes out of the town limits- with no food or shelter.
Women would write to local papers complaining of "incursions of the vilest
elements of the community" when housing bans on brothel locations were
lifted(Tombstone, AZ 1882) and ask incredulously whether they were supposed
to just "invite them to our homes, our social circles...?" (Cheyenne, WY
1870) -(from Anne Butler's Daughters of Joy, Sisters of Misery).
There were some pretty strange laws on the book- I'm not saying it was
universal- just that it had occurred. All I want it the acceptance that it
might have been a possibility considering other similar laws concerning
prostitutes.

MJ



.  Archaic laws are find-able, if one knows where to look, and
>if I have a town and date to target, maybe I can find this one.  Then I can
>claim to know about one law in one town in one set of years.


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Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 20:10:22 EDT
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<<I was just wondering how have your spending habits changed over time while 
you have been costuming?  Have your spending habits gone up or down?  Also, 
your fabric choices; better, worse?>>

Hard questions to answer...  I'd say my fabric choices have gotten better in 
the sense that I now know from experience which types of fabric really "work" 
for certain styles -- i.e. drape correctly, hold their shape, etc.  Also, 
I've found many websites and other sources over the years that reduced my 
costs per yard.  This means I can afford to buy better fabrics for the same 
prices (or cheaper!) than I was paying for lesser fabrics in my college 
years.  So, have my costs gone down?  Probably not.  Since I can afford to 
buy more fabric at the cheaper prices, I now make my skirts more full -- 
which means I buy more yardage.  Plus, I'm finding my new fascination with 
embellishment means I spend more on trims and beads than I do on the fabric 
for an outfit.  And now I can afford accessories... which gets me into even 
more trouble!  

How to I keep myself out of bankruptcy, then, and still get my sewing fix?  
Well, I became a seamstress.  Now I sew other people's fabric at other 
people's expense and get paid to do it!  Ha ha! (laughing at myself)  I also 
find that if I work 35 hrs a week sewing, I tend not to want to sew as much 
on my off days.  That means I go through my stash much slower and can't 
justify buying more fabric.

--Gillian


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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">&lt;&lt;I was just wondering how have your spending habits changed over time while you have been costuming?&nbsp; Have your spending habits gone up or down?&nbsp; Also, your fabric choices; better, worse?&gt;&gt;<BR>
<BR>
Hard questions to answer...&nbsp; I'd say my fabric choices have gotten better in the sense that I now know from experience which types of fabric really "work" for certain styles -- i.e. drape correctly, hold their shape, etc.&nbsp; Also, I've found many websites and other sources over the years that reduced my costs per yard.&nbsp; This means I can afford to buy better fabrics for the same prices (or cheaper!) than I was paying for lesser fabrics in my college years.&nbsp; So, have my costs gone down?&nbsp; Probably not.&nbsp; Since I can afford to buy more fabric at the cheaper prices, I now make my skirts more full -- which means I buy more yardage.&nbsp; Plus, I'm finding my new fascination with embellishment means I spend more on trims and beads than I do on the fabric for an outfit.&nbsp; And now I can afford accessories... which gets me into even more trouble!&nbsp; <BR>
<BR>
How to I keep myself out of bankruptcy, then, and still get my sewing fix?&nbsp; Well, I became a seamstress.&nbsp; Now I sew other people's fabric at other people's expense and get paid to do it!&nbsp; Ha ha! (laughing at myself)&nbsp; I also find that if I work 35 hrs a week sewing, I tend not to want to sew as much on my off days.&nbsp; That means I go through my stash much slower and can't justify buying more fabric.<BR>
<BR>
--Gillian<BR>
<BR>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A question from a friend
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Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 20:47:45 -0400
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Hi. Your question leaves out much info. Which country are we talking about? Any
time from the 13th cent. onward? A nightshirt and a gown are two different
things, even in 21st cent. costuming vocabulary, and neither one might be what is
being looked for, depending on the answers above. If the questioner could be a
little more detailed in what they are trying to do with the info (doctoral
thesis, fantasy fiction, newspaper article, Girl Scout guidebook, crossword
puzzle, bar bet, etc.), perhaps the answer can be more detailed. Cheers, Mike T.



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 Greetings.
A friend of mine wants me to make her a nosegay of posies suitable for a late 1890's ball (don't know if the locale is England or the US).
I'd like to make it as correct as possible. So, does anyone know what would have been appropriate for the time? 
Thanks!
kate
 



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<P> Greetings.
<P>A friend of mine wants me to make her a nosegay of posies suitable for a late 1890's ball (don't know if the locale is England or the US).
<P>I'd like to&nbsp;make it as correct as possible. So, does anyone know what would have been appropriate for the time? 
<P>Thanks!
<P>kate
<P>&nbsp;</P><p><br><hr size=1><b>Do You Yahoo!?</b><br>
<a href="$rd_url/welcome/?http://autos.yahoo.com/">Yahoo! Autos</a> - Get free new car price quotes
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<< <I sure wish I had some of your resources!>

oh, most of it is online! only a small amount of things comes from the UK.>>

Do share those online sources, by all means!

--Gillian



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">&lt;&lt; &lt;I sure wish I had some of your resources!&gt;<BR>
<BR>
oh, most of it is online! only a small amount of things comes from the UK.&gt;&gt;<BR>
<BR>
Do share those online sources, by all means!<BR>
<BR>
--Gillian<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> Acetate-Nylon is typically what you find being sold in Jo-Anne's for=20
> $20+.  Panne is crushed velvet... looks like it's been sat on and ironed=20
> that way.  It's a neat look, but not for most historical garb that I've=20
> ever seen.
> 
More info:
Acetate-Nylon  is woven and does not stretch.  The drape is...kinda like a 
thick curtain (trying to put it in newbie terms).  This is the fabric you see 
on formal occasion dresses in department stores in winter.  It's mostly a 
solid color.  Dry clean only.

Panne is a knit, so it stretches and can be made into very slinky outfits.  
It's multi-faceted -- because of the fact the velvet's been crushed -- giving 
it a sparkle.   I see panne at many LARPs and at Renfairs; it's also a goth 
favorite.  I'm a goth, and I wear it all the time.  It is not a historical 
fabric, though.  Washable!

The choice between them depends on where you are wearing the outfit, and the 
design of the outfit.  If it's "black tie," go for the Acetate-Nylon (or 
Rayon-acetate).  If it's a Renaissance fair that's usually muddy, go for the 
washable and more breathable panne.  If it's got to be historically accurate 
or the pattern demands something a bit stiff, go for the Acetate-Nylon.  If 
you want an outfit to skim your curves and never need ironing, go for the 
panne.

Both are difficult to sew as a beginner, though.  Panne stretches, so you 
must stretch it by hand as you sew.  Use a ball point needle in your sewing 
machine.  I also recommend a narrow zigzag or any "broken" stitch -- as 
opposed to a straight stitch -- to allow the seam thread to stretch along 
with the fabric.  Knits like this do not fray at the edges, and panne is 
generally not see-through, so you can usually get away without a lining in 
the garment/outfit.

"Real" velvet (acetate-nylon, rayon-acetate, or even silk-rayon-acetate) 
shifts all over as you sew because of the thick "pile" (=fur) on it.  You 
really need a "velvet foot" or "V foot" attachment for your sewing machine to 
keep it under control.  You also cannot iron the seams open nomally, because 
you'll make permanent dents in the pile/fur.  Some stores sell "velvet 
needleboards" for ironing on, but the hook side of Velcro works well too.  
Place the Velcro strip hook-side-up atop your ironing board, then lay the 
seam you wanna press on top (pile-side-down) and iron gently.

Hope all this helped!
Gillian-the-seamstress

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">h-costume-request@indra.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Acetate-Nylon is typically what you find being sold in Jo-Anne's for=20<BR>
$20+.&nbsp; Panne is crushed velvet... looks like it's been sat on and ironed=20<BR>
that way.&nbsp; It's a neat look, but not for most historical garb that I've=20<BR>
ever seen.<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
More info:<BR>
Acetate-Nylon&nbsp; is woven and does not stretch.&nbsp; The drape is...kinda like a thick curtain (trying to put it in newbie terms).&nbsp; This is the fabric you see on formal occasion dresses in department stores in winter.&nbsp; It's mostly a solid color.&nbsp; Dry clean only.<BR>
<BR>
Panne is a knit, so it stretches and can be made into very slinky outfits.&nbsp; It's multi-faceted -- because of the fact the velvet's been crushed -- giving it a sparkle.&nbsp;&nbsp; I see panne at many LARPs and at Renfairs; it's also a goth favorite.&nbsp; I'm a goth, and I wear it all the time.&nbsp; It is not a historical fabric, though.&nbsp; Washable!<BR>
<BR>
The choice between them depends on where you are wearing the outfit, and the design of the outfit.&nbsp; If it's "black tie," go for the Acetate-Nylon (or Rayon-acetate).&nbsp; If it's a Renaissance fair that's usually muddy, go for the washable and more breathable panne.&nbsp; If it's got to be historically accurate or the pattern demands something a bit stiff, go for the Acetate-Nylon.&nbsp; If you want an outfit to skim your curves and never need ironing, go for the panne.<BR>
<BR>
Both are difficult to sew as a beginner, though.&nbsp; Panne stretches, so you must stretch it by hand as you sew.&nbsp; Use a ball point needle in your sewing machine.&nbsp; I also recommend a narrow zigzag or any "broken" stitch -- as opposed to a straight stitch -- to allow the seam thread to stretch along with the fabric.&nbsp; Knits like this do not fray at the edges, and panne is generally not see-through, so you can usually get away without a lining in the garment/outfit.<BR>
<BR>
"Real" velvet (acetate-nylon, rayon-acetate, or even silk-rayon-acetate) shifts all over as you sew because of the thick "pile" (=fur) on it.&nbsp; You really need a "velvet foot" or "V foot" attachment for your sewing machine to keep it under control.&nbsp; You also cannot iron the seams open nomally, because you'll make permanent dents in the pile/fur.&nbsp; Some stores sell "velvet needleboards" for ironing on, but the hook side of Velcro works well too.&nbsp; Place the Velcro strip hook-side-up atop your ironing board, then lay the seam you wanna press on top (pile-side-down) and iron gently.<BR>
<BR>
Hope all this helped!<BR>
Gillian-the-seamstress</FONT></HTML>

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> My most expensive stuff (carefully folded in my
> grandmother's old trunk, so I can save it by throwing it through a
> window if there's ever a house fire) is this divine, 
> scrumptious,black-and-gold upholstery brocade I paid $25/yd for.  I will, 
> someday,
> be using it to make a reproduction of the Phoenix portrait of Elizabeth
> I.
> 
Oh Sue!  You've hit one of my favorites!  Please do get around to making that 
and share LOTS OF PICS!

I don't usually want to make exact replicas of paintings, because I don't 
like knowing my outfit's "been done before".  The Phoenix is one exception.  
I've never found the appropriate brocade, so I told myself that if I ever buy 
an embroidery machine, the first thing I'm doing is making that fabric.  
Ambitious, I know...

--Gillian

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px"><B>My most expensive stuff (carefully folded in my<BR>
grandmother's old trunk, so I can save it by throwing it through a<BR>
window if there's ever a house fire) is this divine, scrumptious,black-and-gold upholstery brocade I paid $25/yd for.&nbsp; I will, someday,<BR>
be using it to make a reproduction of the Phoenix portrait of Elizabeth<BR>
I.<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE></B><BR>
Oh Sue!&nbsp; You've hit one of my favorites!&nbsp; Please do get around to making that and share LOTS OF PICS!<BR>
<BR>
I don't usually want to make exact replicas of paintings, because I don't like knowing my outfit's "been done before".&nbsp; The Phoenix is one exception.&nbsp; I've never found the appropriate brocade, so I told myself that if I ever buy an embroidery machine, the first thing I'm doing is making that fabric.&nbsp; Ambitious, I know...<BR>
<BR>
--Gillian</FONT></HTML>

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mohair- not wool- slight difference one's from a sheep the other from a
goat- though I suppose one of the longwool breeds like the leicester or
cotswold might make passable velvet- I think it is still available or was a
few years back- I had a friend who was a large presence in the Angora goat
industry and she special ordered mohair velvet for her 19th century couch
and chair to be recovered in.
MJ


Ok, am I allergic to every period fabric but silk?!  Grr...  I could make 
such wonderfully authentic garb if I didn't get rashes from wool, linen, 
mohair/angora, and many of the wild animals they used for fur trim.  Just 
call me synthetic.

--Gillian

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">mohair- not wool- slight difference one's from a sheep the other from a<BR>
goat- though I suppose one of the longwool breeds like the leicester or<BR>
cotswold might make passable velvet- I think it is still available or was a<BR>
few years back- I had a friend who was a large presence in the Angora goat<BR>
industry and she special ordered mohair velvet for her 19th century couch<BR>
and chair to be recovered in.<BR>
MJ</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
<BR>
Ok, am I allergic to every period fabric but silk?!&nbsp; Grr...&nbsp; I could make such wonderfully authentic garb if I didn't get rashes from wool, linen, mohair/angora, and many of the wild animals they used for fur trim.&nbsp; Just call me synthetic.<BR>
<BR>
--Gillian</FONT></HTML>

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In a message dated 7/12/02 2:03:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> Interesting. A few years ago Wal-Mart was thinking about changing all of 
> their stores to pre-cuts only. There was such an overwhelmingly negative 
> response from the public that they decided against doing it.
> I hope that they're not changing their mind.
> 

Oh gods!  Me too!  I like that if I find a fabric I adore on the dollar 
table, I can just buy the whole bolt and not worry about dye lots.  Also, you 
waste less fabric if you can arrange your patterns on a continuous piece, so 
the bolt really stretches my budget. 

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 7/12/02 2:03:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time, h-costume-request@indra.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Interesting. A few years ago Wal-Mart was thinking about changing all of their stores to pre-cuts only. There was such an overwhelmingly negative response from the public that they decided against doing it.<BR>
I hope that they're not changing their mind.<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Oh gods!&nbsp; Me too!&nbsp; I like that if I find a fabric I adore on the dollar table, I can just buy the whole bolt and not worry about dye lots.&nbsp; Also, you waste less fabric if you can arrange your patterns on a continuous piece, so the bolt really stretches my budget. </FONT></HTML>

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Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 11:00:28 -0300
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        My most expensive stuff (carefully folded in my grandmother's old
trunk....

Not to be a wet blanket, but could you roll it instead of folding it?  Won't
the creases be hard to get out?

Martha



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In a message dated 7/12/02 2:03:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> possibly some list members are about to
> 
> get married.
> 

Like me!

--Gillian, who is venue-searching for Oct 2003

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 7/12/02 2:03:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time, h-costume-request@indra.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">possibly some list members are about to<BR>
<BR>
get married.<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Like me!<BR>
<BR>
--Gillian, who is venue-searching for Oct 2003</FONT></HTML>

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I used to work at Jo-Ann's.  I was the "Costume Consultant," according to my 
manager.  Anyway, I know how all the sales work.

1) It's a good idea to hit joann.com and sign up for their mailing list.  
They'll send you flyers of what's on sale.  Only the mailed flyers (not the 
ones you can pick up in the store) have coupons on the back.  Every couple of 
flyers the coupon will be for "50% off one regular price item".  You can use 
this on any single cut cut of fabric.  Need 20 yards of upholstery brocade?  
Make your own sale with this coupon -- good the whole 20-yard cut!  If you 
want a fabric that's not listed as on sale,  wait for this coupon.

2) "Season Finale" is 66% to 75% off.  If you see a fabric you want on this 
sale, BUY IT!  Do not wait for it to go on clearance to the "Bargain 
Section", because the clearance price fabric will not be as cheap!  Not true 
for trims, which get clearanced at insane prices, like the one I got for 10 
cents a yd down from $4/yd.  That's because they only put trims on clearance 
when the manufacturer has discontinued the line or Jo-Ann's is dropping that 
supplier.

3) DO look for the "Fabric Bonanza" section.  These fabrics are odd lots from 
other companies sold at $1.96/yd.  Some of the fabrics here are nasty, but 
I've found 100% wool too (not that I care wear wool).  Better yet, wait until 
you get a flyer saying $0.99/yd Fabric Bonanza.  Not only is this half price, 
but the stores tend to get a large new shipment right before this sale so as 
not to have upset customers.

4) Close to Christmas, they sometimes (most years) have a $5/yd velvet sale.  
Look for it in flyers and get there early!  It includes the rayon velvets, 
burnouts, etc, and it's cheaper than online because there's no shipping.

5) You can occasionally find brocades or interesting jaquards on the flatfold 
table.  Flatfolds are NOT remnants; they are upholstery fabrics that do not 
come on a bolt, so there can be 12 yds there.   Just be careful not to get a 
rubber-backed fabric for sewing clothes.  The most expensive flatfold is 
$9.96/yd, so if you use your 50% coupon...

6) If you sew as a business, you should ask the manager about their 15% 
Discount.

7) Last but not least, it helps to make friends with the salespeople.  They 
get insider "heads up"s on big sales, and in the smaller (non-ETC) stores 
they'll often remember an avid costumer. They'll tell you when new stuff 
you'd like comes in or gets marked down for clearance.  (I got e-mail when 
all the velvet ribbon was discontinued and marked down to 5 and 10 cents a 
yard.

Time for bed now...

--Gillian

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I used to work at Jo-Ann's.&nbsp; I was the "Costume Consultant," according to my manager.&nbsp; Anyway, I know how all the sales work.<BR>
<BR>
1) It's a good idea to hit joann.com and sign up for their mailing list.&nbsp; They'll send you flyers of what's on sale.&nbsp; Only the mailed flyers (not the ones you can pick up in the store) have coupons on the back.&nbsp; Every couple of flyers the coupon will be for "50% off one regular price item".&nbsp; You can use this on any single cut cut of fabric.&nbsp; Need 20 yards of upholstery brocade?&nbsp; Make your own sale with this coupon -- good the whole 20-yard cut!&nbsp; If you want a fabric that's not listed as on sale,&nbsp; wait for this coupon.<BR>
<BR>
2) "Season Finale" is 66% to 75% off.&nbsp; If you see a fabric you want on this sale, BUY IT!&nbsp; Do not wait for it to go on clearance to the "Bargain Section", because the clearance price fabric will not be as cheap!&nbsp; Not true for trims, which get clearanced at insane prices, like the one I got for 10 cents a yd down from $4/yd.&nbsp; That's because they only put trims on clearance when the manufacturer has discontinued the line or Jo-Ann's is dropping that supplier.<BR>
<BR>
3) DO look for the "Fabric Bonanza" section.&nbsp; These fabrics are odd lots from other companies sold at $1.96/yd.&nbsp; Some of the fabrics here are nasty, but I've found 100% wool too (not that I care wear wool).&nbsp; Better yet, wait until you get a flyer saying $0.99/yd Fabric Bonanza.&nbsp; Not only is this half price, but the stores tend to get a large new shipment right before this sale so as not to have upset customers.<BR>
<BR>
4) Close to Christmas, they sometimes (most years) have a $5/yd velvet sale.&nbsp; Look for it in flyers and get there early!&nbsp; It includes the rayon velvets, burnouts, etc, and it's cheaper than online because there's no shipping.<BR>
<BR>
5) You can occasionally find brocades or interesting jaquards on the flatfold table.&nbsp; Flatfolds are NOT remnants; they are upholstery fabrics that do not come on a bolt, so there can be 12 yds there.&nbsp;&nbsp; Just be careful not to get a rubber-backed fabric for sewing clothes.&nbsp; The most expensive flatfold is $9.96/yd, so if you use your 50% coupon...<BR>
<BR>
6) If you sew as a business, you should ask the manager about their 15% Discount.<BR>
<BR>
7) Last but not least, it helps to make friends with the salespeople.&nbsp; They get insider "heads up"s on big sales, and in the smaller (non-ETC) stores they'll often remember an avid costumer. They'll tell you when new stuff you'd like comes in or gets marked down for clearance.&nbsp; (I got e-mail when all the velvet ribbon was discontinued and marked down to 5 and 10 cents a yard.<BR>
<BR>
Time for bed now...<BR>
<BR>
--Gillian<BR>
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Photos of 1700 costumes from the event this weekend
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Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 18:10:23 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Azelana@aol.com wrote: > << <I sure wish I had some of your resources!>
> 
> oh, most of it is online! only a small amount of things comes from the UK.>>
> 
> Do share those online sources, by all means!
> 
> --Gillian

eBay, as I said, eBay. Months and months and months of careful hour long
trawlings through eBay. That, and teh fact I have quite a well known web site,
Marla mallett contacted me when she sold the needlelace. I bought it within 15
minutes of her mail. :-)

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: different velvets
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Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 19:34:18 +0100
Status: RO

Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote
>
>On Thu, 11 Jul 2002, Jean Waddie wrote:
>
>> I'm surprised to hear most towns are so short of fabric shops - since
>> I was completely stunned to find fabric in Wal-Mart in the middle of
>> Connecticut last year.  Fabric in a supermarket? (We needed to do
>> quick curtains for the windows in the front and side doors of our
>> rented apartments - a yard of fabric and a bit of masking tape was OK
>> for a week or two).  And in one mall in Quebec there were three shops
>> selling cloth and knitting yarn. Fabric shops in the UK are generally
>> specialist and found down obscure side-streets - never, ever in a
>> mall!  Was I just very fortunate in the places I went?
>
>Yes and no.  In general, the independent fabric store in the U.S. seems to
>be as scarce now as the independent bookstore. They were common enough 10
>years ago, but more and more of them are folding, either because of
>competition from chains, declining sales (fewer people are sewing these
>days), or general ill climate for small businesses. If you've got one in
>your town, it's a thing to treasure.
>
>Wal-Mart is a different sort of case. It's not what we would call a
>supermarket (a term we use for large food stores that also sell soaps,
>drugs, sundries, and other household consumables). Wal-Mart falls into the
>category of "discount department store," and brings up the cheapest end of
>that classification. The chain built its success by bringing mass-market
>goods at low prices to small towns and other areas that did not have large
>shopping centers and a broad selection of stores. Wal-Mart located its
>large retail stores on low-priced property just outside town, offering a
>one-stop shop for a large range of useful things -- clothes, hardware,
>toys, household goods -- at prices made possible only by high-volume sales
>and chain-store scale. (This created a great deal of ill will among small
>downtowns, whose smaller, more specialized shops often died from the
>competition of the Wal-Mart down the road.)
>
>Anyway, in areas where the nearest fabric store might be an hour away, or
>there might be only a single tiny specialty shop, Wal-Mart became the
>chief source of fabric. The stores in less-populated areas thus often have
>a large fabric department, with a selection catering to the needs of the
>home crafter/sewer: basic low-priced fabrics for casual and family
>clothing, quilting supplies, curtain materials, thread and tools, basic
>craft items.
>
>In more urban areas where fabric is easier to come by, Wal-Mart is not the
>consumer's top choice for fabric shopping, so those stores often have a
>smaller fabric department or none at all. (In my metro area, I might pick
>up thread at Wal-Mart while I'm shopping there for something else, but I
>don't go there specifically for fabric, unless maybe I need cheap cotton.)
>
>As to mall stores, a few of the U.S. fabric store chains (So-Fro, Piece
>Goods) were often located in malls, but I see less and less of those these
>days. Most of the ones I know are in older malls and are well-established.
>The idea of three fabric stores in one mall does surprise me. Remember,
>too, there's a great difference between the mall culture of North America
>and that of the UK. We also have a large presence of "strip centers" --
>collections of stores, often parallel to a road with a shared parking lot,
>that provide the advantage of clustered stores without the parking
>problems or expensive architecture of malls. Fabric stores often are
>located in these groupings.
>
>--Robin
>
I can't think of any chain with national coverage in the UK that stocks 
fabric.  The only one would be John Lewis, a fairly upmarket department 
store which has an outlet in most cities and a few of the large towns 
around London.  Their dress fabrics are expensive and their stock has 
been shrinking for years.  There are some small chains that cover 
selected areas - Kings Fabrics turns up in a number of Scottish towns, 
but it's years since I found anything there I wanted.

Many general stores and bargain stores stock basic mending kit - thread, 
needles, maybe some tape or self-adhesive patching, but not cloth.  The 
idea of needing to cater to the home sewer - well, I don't think any of 
the marketing bods in general retail would even recognise the existence 
of home sewing in this country.

There are an increasing number of shops, and even chains, selling 
curtains and soft furnishings, but it's mostly ready-made, or for them 
to make to measure - they rarely expect you to take it home to sew.  I 
am really worried that our very good local fabric store is going that 
way, as their curtain fabric range is expanding, and they are going to 
start selling ready-made, and cushions and stuff, and their dress fabric 
is getting stuffed away under the new "mezzanine floor" where all this 
is going.

There are also lots of patchwork shops, and those selling fabric for 
Asian traditional clothing, but neither of those are much good for 
historic costuming, or even modern Western clothes.  In the areas I've 
been, all the Asian stores sell 100% polyester only.  Dressmaking is 
becoming one of those niche areas, where you have to bump into those in 
the know to be able to find supplies, or get them mail-order.  It's 
almost as bad as...re-enactment.  Hold on, I see a connection here!

Jean

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Walmart pre-cuts?
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Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 13:11:43 -0700
Status: RO




>
> > Interesting. A few years ago Wal-Mart was thinking about changing all of
> > their stores to pre-cuts only. There was such an overwhelmingly negative
> > response from the public that they decided against doing it.
> > I hope that they're not changing their mind.
> >
>
>Oh gods!  Me too!  I like that if I find a fabric I adore on the dollar
>table, I can just buy the whole bolt and not worry about dye lots.  Also, 
>you
>waste less fabric if you can arrange your patterns on a continuous piece, 
>so
>the bolt really stretches my budget.

Not to mention the fact that no one EVER gets the precuts the right length 
for anything I'd want to make.  I either get stuck with twice as much as I 
wanted or not quite as much as I needed.


Jennifer Sena
Distant Designs
http://home.teleport.com/~cedric/distdesi

I wont hurt you, I just want to dress you up!!


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: different velvets
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Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 16:43:07 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Sun, 14 Jul 2002, Jean Waddie wrote:

> The idea of needing to cater to the home sewer - well, I don't think
> any of the marketing bods in general retail would even recognise the
> existence of home sewing in this country.

I think you hit an important difference there between the UK and the US. I
have a sense that sewing is not as typical an occupation for the British
as it is for us.

For example, in the States, when I was in school at least, girls had many
chances to learn to sew, and you'd be more surprised to find a girl who
didn't have at least some basic sewing experience than one who did. We
could take "home economics" or sewing classes in school. (Boys were more
likely to take "shop" classes that included woodworking and similar
skills. Today I gather that the names of the classes are less
gender-oriented, and students are welcome to take whichever they want, but
I suspect some noticeable gender division remains in class makeup.) I
didn't take sewing in school because I'd learned in Girl Scouts, another
typical option. Some of my friends learned from their mothers,
grandmothers, or sisters. It's common to have a sewing machine in one's
home -- even my mother, who doesn't sew, had (and still has) a machine for
mending. Also, crafts such as quilting, which require some sewing
equipment and knowledge, are extremely popular.

Am I correct in my impression that this is not the state in Britain? If
sewing is considered a specialty skill or hobby, fabric stores would be
considered specialty stores. That's the niche that leather or woodworking
stores occupy here -- that is, those are crafts that require specific
materials, but you're very lucky if you have a suitable supplier in town,
and you'd expect to find them in out-of-the-way places.

I suspect that if it wasn't for the huge popularity of quilting and
similar crafts here, sewing stores would be far less common and accessible
than they are today.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: different velvets
From: randl <randl@adelphia.net>
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Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 18:57:40 -0400
Status: RO

My husband and I were fortunate in that we were able to honeymoon in London
'lo those many (5:) years ago. We took the 'rail out to Bath as a daytrip
and discovered a rather hole-in-the-wall fabric shop. I took pictures to
show a friend that owns/runs a similar styled store locally. If the store in
question is still around, I highly recommend it as they carried a fair
selection of silk, linen and wool. I don't recall the name of it, but Bath
isn't terribly large. I do recall that it wasn't far from the roman baths.
Laurie 
> I can't think of any chain with national coverage in the UK that stocks
> fabric.  The only one would be John Lewis, a fairly upmarket department
> store which has an outlet in most cities and a few of the large towns
> around London.  Their dress fabrics are expensive and their stock has
> been shrinking for years.  There are some small chains that cover
> selected areas - Kings Fabrics turns up in a number of Scottish towns,
> but it's years since I found anything there I wanted.
> 
> Many general stores and bargain stores stock basic mending kit - thread,
> needles, maybe some tape or self-adhesive patching, but not cloth.  The
> idea of needing to cater to the home sewer - well, I don't think any of
> the marketing bods in general retail would even recognise the existence
> of home sewing in this country.
> 
> There are an increasing number of shops, and even chains, selling
> curtains and soft furnishings, but it's mostly ready-made, or for them
> to make to measure - they rarely expect you to take it home to sew.  I
> am really worried that our very good local fabric store is going that
> way, as their curtain fabric range is expanding, and they are going to
> start selling ready-made, and cushions and stuff, and their dress fabric
> is getting stuffed away under the new "mezzanine floor" where all this
> is going.
> 
> There are also lots of patchwork shops, and those selling fabric for
> Asian traditional clothing, but neither of those are much good for
> historic costuming, or even modern Western clothes.  In the areas I've
> been, all the Asian stores sell 100% polyester only.  Dressmaking is
> becoming one of those niche areas, where you have to bump into those in
> the know to be able to find supplies, or get them mail-order.  It's
> almost as bad as...re-enactment.  Hold on, I see a connection here!
> 
> Jean

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Running dye question
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Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 20:41:04 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


This isn't quite a historic issue, but it's a fabric issue, and this list
probably contains the expertise to help!

I bought some printed linen: black background, splashy white flowers.
After I bought it, I realized it had tiny bit of lycra in it, too -- one
of those new "stretch linen" fabrics. (Why do they keep ruining perfectly
good linens and wools by adding lycra?) I decided the stretch wouldn't be
a problem for this particular (non-historic) project, but I also realized
I'd better avoid the higher heat settings for washing/drying/ironing I'd
usually use with linen.

So I washed it on warm, dried it delicate. And the black dye bled all over
the white flowers. The result was a batik-like grey streaking across the
entire print. Oddly, I like it better this way! The original design was a
bit too stark for my taste, and I almost didn't buy it for that reason.

So now I have a print with a really nice irregular grey pattern behind the
white areas. My question: How do I keep it this way? Should I expect that
the dye will continue to run on further washings, or will it stay put?
Should I just dry-clean the finished garment? I don't want to run it
through the wash with a dye magnet, because I want to keep the streaking
that's already there.

--Robin

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From: "Saragrace knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Kyoto Costume Institute (WAS: Intro and Revolution In Fashion book)
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Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 18:18:18 -0700
Status: RO

Wow, I hate to admit my biased expectations, but I was expecting
oriental fashions!  Fabulous stuff-thank you for sharing-I'd not have
known about it otherwise.
SG

**-----Original Message-----
**From: h-costume-admin@indra.com 
**[mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On Behalf Of Kendra Van Cleave
**Sent: Saturday, July 13, 2002 3:27 PM
**To: h-costume@indra.com
**Subject: [h-cost] Kyoto Costume Institute (WAS: Intro and 
**Revolution In Fashion book)
**
**
**I'm assuming everyone found the Kyoto Costume Institute's 
**digital collections, but in case you didn't, they have some 
**great photos of costumes from their collection at:
**
**http://www.kci.or.jp/collection/collset-e.html
**
**- Kendra
**
**
**
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Subject: [h-cost] 73 Online Fabric Stores
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Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 18:30:57 -0700
Status: RO

Greetings to one and all,
  Since the subject came up about fabric stores (online or actual 
stores). I thought I would see what I could find online.  And I found 
fabric heaven.  :)  I've only went through a couple of the stores so far 
since I'm not feeling so well right now.
  Here is the website addy:   
http://www.rollanet.org/~anderson/fabricstores.html 
<http://www.rollanet.org/%7Eanderson/fabricstores.html>
   
In the Service of Sewing (even if I am a 43 yr old beginner),
Roscelin/Rose

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Running dye question
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Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 19:07:28 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO


Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
[...] 
> So now I have a print with a really nice irregular grey pattern behind the
> white areas. My question: How do I keep it this way? Should I expect that
> the dye will continue to run on further washings, or will it stay put?
> Should I just dry-clean the finished garment? I don't want to run it
> through the wash with a dye magnet, because I want to keep the streaking
> that's already there.

Try a dye fixative.  Dharma Trading Company's house brand one is what
I use to fix batiks on the rare occasion that I do batik.  Since I've
been doing a bunch of vat dyeing using black, red and bright blue this
week, I've been using the dye fixative in the final rinse (their suggestion
for colors that run and fade).  The only catch is that the dye fixative
needs to be used with hot water.
http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/1569-AA.shtml

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Running dye question
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Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 19:28:05 -0700 (PDT)
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--0-1695768816-1026700085=:51157
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 Would the new Shout color catcher sheets help? 
One of our local TV stations has a "Let Joe Try It" segment where Joe gets to try new products/informercial products to see if they actually work as well as they're claimed.
For the Color Catcher sheets, he put a freshly dyed garment in the laundry with a light colored tee shirt as well as one of the color catcher sheets and it captured the excess color from the dyed garment--the tee shirt came out absolutely spotless.It just removes excess dye particles that are  in the water, it won't take the dye out of garments that have already been dyed/stained.
Maybe this would help you keep the dye from further coloring your linen.
kate
  Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote: 
This isn't quite a historic issue, but it's a fabric issue, and this list
probably contains the expertise to help!

I bought some printed linen: black background, splashy white flowers.
After I bought it, I realized it had tiny bit of lycra in it, too -- one
of those new "stretch linen" fabrics. (Why do they keep ruining perfectly
good linens and wools by adding lycra?) I decided the stretch wouldn't be
a problem for this particular (non-historic) project, but I also realized
I'd better avoid the higher heat settings for washing/drying/ironing I'd
usually use with linen.

So I washed it on warm, dried it delicate. And the black dye bled all over
the white flowers. The result was a batik-like grey streaking across the
entire print. Oddly, I like it better this way! The original design was a
bit too stark for my taste, and I almost didn't buy it for that reason.

So now I have a print with a really nice irregular grey pattern behind the
white areas. My question: How do I keep it this way? Should I expect that
the dye will continue to run on further washings, or will it stay put?
Should I just dry-clean the finished garment? I don't want to run it
through the wash with a dye magnet, because I want to keep the streaking
that's already there.

--Robin


---------------------------------
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Autos - Get free new car price quotes
--0-1695768816-1026700085=:51157
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<P> Would the new Shout color catcher sheets help? 
<P>One of our local TV stations has a "Let Joe Try It" segment where Joe gets to try new products/informercial products to see if they actually work as well as they're claimed.
<P>For the Color Catcher sheets, he put a freshly dyed garment in the laundry with a light colored tee shirt as well as one of the color catcher sheets and it captured the excess color from the dyed garment--the tee shirt came out absolutely spotless.It just removes excess dye particles that are&nbsp; in the water, it won't take&nbsp;the dye out of garments&nbsp;that have already been dyed/stained.
<P>Maybe this would help you keep the dye from further coloring your linen.
<P>kate
<P>&nbsp; <B><I>Robin Netherton &lt;robin@shell.nightowl.net&gt;</I></B> wrote: 
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid"><BR>This isn't quite a historic issue, but it's a fabric issue, and this list<BR>probably contains the expertise to help!<BR><BR>I bought some printed linen: black background, splashy white flowers.<BR>After I bought it, I realized it had tiny bit of lycra in it, too -- one<BR>of those new "stretch linen" fabrics. (Why do they keep ruining perfectly<BR>good linens and wools by adding lycra?) I decided the stretch wouldn't be<BR>a problem for this particular (non-historic) project, but I also realized<BR>I'd better avoid the higher heat settings for washing/drying/ironing I'd<BR>usually use with linen.<BR><BR>So I washed it on warm, dried it delicate. And the black dye bled all over<BR>the white flowers. The result was a batik-like grey streaking across the<BR>entire print. Oddly, I like it better this way! The original design was a<BR>bit too stark for my taste, and I almost didn't buy it!
 for that reason.<BR><BR>So now I have a print with a really nice irregular grey pattern behind the<BR>white areas. My question: How do I keep it this way? Should I expect that<BR>the dye will continue to run on further washings, or will it stay put?<BR>Should I just dry-clean the finished garment? I don't want to run it<BR>through the wash with a dye magnet, because I want to keep the streaking<BR>that's already there.<BR><BR>--Robin</BLOCKQUOTE><p><br><hr size=1><b>Do You Yahoo!?</b><br>
<a href="http://autos.yahoo.com/">Yahoo! Autos</a> - Get free new car price quotes
--0-1695768816-1026700085=:51157--
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Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 21:35:48 -0600
Status: RO

Ohhhhh.....gawdd.....You *would* have to post something like that....oh,
man, oh man, oh man.....I think you've *killed* my credit card....
See, here's the scoop....A friend and I (who both do historical
clothing, and, oddly enough, both know Robin) will be in Bath for
several days in eary September.  We already have shopping and the Roman
baths on the list (along with the Costume Museum, and the Assembly
Rooms).  We live in a part of the U.S. where we get decent snowy
winters, and *no d@mned wool fabric*!!!!, so finding something yummy
while we're in England would just be a superlative coup!
--Sue, who would be doing a decent "happy dance" if she weren't so
blessed *hot* [day 4? 5? of record-breaking temperatures, and *NO* a/c
or swamp cooler ;-( ]

randl wrote:
> 
> My husband and I were fortunate in that we were able to honeymoon in London
> 'lo those many (5:) years ago. We took the 'rail out to Bath as a daytrip
> and discovered a rather hole-in-the-wall fabric shop. I took pictures to
> show a friend that owns/runs a similar styled store locally. If the store in
> question is still around, I highly recommend it as they carried a fair
> selection of silk, linen and wool. I don't recall the name of it, but Bath
> isn't terribly large. I do recall that it wasn't far from the roman baths.
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 00:15:25 -0400
Status: RO

Hi. Another note for the hubby interested in WWII. When I was in Aachen, so many
years ago, I remember still seeing buildings on the outskirts of town that were
abandoned since the terrible battle that occurred in town in 1945. I was amazed
that, some 35 or so years later, there were still houses all shot up. I'm sure (or
at least mostly so) that they have been fixed up since, but, who knows? I know in
one of the in-town cemeteries, within walking distance of the train station and the
Kaffeestuben that Nicole mentions, there are graves of both the German and American
troops killed back then. I still have the photos that I shot (I was an exchange
student in England at the time studying theater in London, and I made a side trip
to complete a photo assignment I had).  Mike T.


> Oh yes, oh yes! Go and see Aachen! See Charlemagne's magnificent cathedral, go
> and have a fantastic coffee and warm apple strudel with vanilla ice and cream
> in the Alt Aachener Kaffeestuben right to the left of the medieval town hall in
> the town square. And please, plaese, give a greeting to Aachen from an
> expatriat who loved Aachen very much for the 12 years of living there.
>

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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 00:45:33 -0400
Status: RO



Hi, All. Something someone just said rung a bell in my head (or perhaps it
was just me getting kicked too many times there...), but I remembered
something my old Doctor said to me. He was an old-fashioned sort (Bless his
soul, he passed on this year), but when I first went to his practice, I had
my patter all in order. He asked me if I had any allergies, and I dutifully
replied, as I had been taught by my Mother, "Penicillin and Compozine".
Rather than just write these down (dutifully), he asked my why I thought I
had those allergies. The first was inherited, I told him, and the second
came from an episode when I was 18, when my appendix burst. He then asked if
I had ever been tested for these "allergies". I said "no", and he told me
that what I thought I had in the first case was unproven, and in the second
was a reaction, not an allergy. He asked if I wished to be tested for the
above. I haven't since, but I thought I'd mention it. If you think you have
an "allergy" to a particular thing, and it is making you make lifestyle
changes that are difficult, you might want to look into it to see if you can
be tested. This might lead you into an area through which you can work out
where your problems are, and help you to expand those areas where you might
have thought you could never go. If you find that you have real allergies,
I'm sorry, but if you can find a way around them, all the better. Good Luck,
Mike T. PS Please don't respond to this by becoming defensive. It isn't an
attack, but a means of possibly helping folks, and was meant in that way.

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Subject: [h-cost] Kyoto Costume Institute
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 05:41:00 +0000
Status: RO


Kendra, Thank you so much for sharing the link to the Kyoto Costume 
Institute.  It was so much fun drooling over all the pictures of the 
garments.  I wish I could wear them all...

I know this is completely stating the obvious, but I was really struck by 
how much the woman's silhouette has changed over time.  I know that in the 
20th century, the styles that women have worn have changed dramatically.  
Every decade has a characteristic silhouette and style that was popular at 
that time.  For some reason, I just assumed that such a variety of styles 
had been the product of a time where the media has been such an influence.  
We can see the most recent styles and fashions by picking up a nationally or 
worldwide distributed magazine.  We can know that white prairie style skirts 
are in fashion right now, because Penelope Cruz is seen wearing one on TV or 
the Internet...  I also thought that ready-made clothes had contributed to 
the variety of styles in recent decades.  We can just go to the store and 
find a similar version of what the fashion icons are creating.

Anyway, I know that styles have changed dramatically over the last 300 
years, but I was just really struck by just how dramatically.  For instance 
- 1790 to 1800 was not a very long time.  However, the basic shape of the 
silhouette changes considerably.  The full skirts and bodiced natural waist 
gave way to more relaxed skirts and the empire style waistline.  I think 
this is a huge change for a time when the media was completely different as 
an influence in the styles that women wore.

I am very tired, so I'm sure when I look at this again tomorrow, I'll be 
thinking that it really isn't that remarkable...  but then again it really 
makes me think about how styles came to be.  Who were the influences in 
making those characteristic changes and who were the people who embraced 
these new fashions?  Also, how did a dramatic style change spread from town 
to town and country to country?  I think it is all very interesting...

Some ramblings (or obvious statements/observations)...

:) jessica



>From: "Kendra Van Cleave" <kendrav@attbi.co
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 15:27:14 -0700
>Subject: [h-cost] Kyoto Costume Institute (WAS: Intro and Revolution In 
>Fashion book)
>Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
>I'm assuming everyone found the Kyoto Costume Institute's digital
>collections, but in case you didn't, they have some great photos of 
>costumes
>from their collection at:
>
>http://www.kci.or.jp/collection/collset-e.html
>
>- Kendra


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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 05:48:23 +0000
Status: RO


Welcom Back Apollonia.

I just had to comment on your tag line...  It's very nice to see someone who 
has recongnized the fantastic genious of the Black Adder!  He is one of the 
Greats!!!

Again, welcome.

:) jessica


>Edmund:
>      It's green.
>Percy:
>      Yes, my lord!
>Edmund:
>      Percy, the colour of gold, is gold. Whatever you have discovered if 
>it
>has a name would be called green.
>Percy: [on discovering the secret of alchemy]
>      Oh Edmund can it be true, that I hold in my mortal hands a nugget of
>purest GREEN?
>


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Subject: [h-cost] Dye fixative
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Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 23:21:16 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO


D'Oh.  The dye fixative is used in a cool bath.  Synthropol and Milsoft
are used in hot soaks.  I'm on my third round of vat dyeing this weekend,
so I'm getting a little addled.  Fire Red this time.  

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 02:34:56 -0400
Status: RO

The web site is excellent, but there is still a lot more info in
the "Revolution" book...I am tempted to order some of the
other books &/or videos offered in the catalog...
Has anyone seen the videos? Are they all in Japanese?
Are the other books in Japanese/English like "Revolution"?
Deb R

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Austrian/German holiday: suggestions?
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 08:23:02 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- leigh tartaglio <mikes@dandy.net> wrote: > Hi. Another note for the hubby
interested in WWII. When I was in Aachen, so
> many
> years ago, I remember still seeing buildings on the outskirts of town that
> were
> abandoned since the terrible battle that occurred in town in 1945. I was

There hasn't been anything like that for the past 14-15 years I was living
there. Moved to Aachen in '88.

> amazed
> that, some 35 or so years later, there were still houses all shot up. I'm

A memento.

> sure (or
> at least mostly so) that they have been fixed up since, but, who knows? I

_I_ know, because I come from there. There is absolutely nothing of that sort
there. Aachen is a beautiful city.

> know in
> one of the in-town cemeteries, within walking distance of the train station
> and the
> Kaffeestuben that Nicole mentions, there are graves of both the German and
> American
> troops killed back then. 

They are still finding renmains of American soldiers lost in the Huertgenforest
and never accounted for. There are Germans who have taken over the task of
trawling through the woods with metal detectors and dogs in their very own
spare time, finding bits and pieces, then calling the US authorities in who
then dig around. By now they have already helped find the mortal remains of
over a dozen soldiers, that could then finally laid to rest back home and
mourned properly by their families. There is nothing worse than not having a
grave. I know, because there are so many Germans never accounted for in
Siberia.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 08:30:43 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote: > Ohhhhh.....gawdd.....You
*would* have to post something like that....oh,
> man, oh man, oh man.....I think you've *killed* my credit card....
> See, here's the scoop....A friend and I (who both do historical
> clothing, and, oddly enough, both know Robin) will be in Bath for
> several days in eary September.  

Sue, why don't you just cal up Hainsworth and have their fantastic wool
delivered to somewhere to pick it up while you're in England?

http://www.hainsworth.co.uk/abimelech/index1.html

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 09:08:55 +0100
Status: RO

According to my Swedish dictionary:

F"orstygn = running stitch
Efterstygn = back stitch

Smygs"om isn't listed as such, but possibly = slip stitch?

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 09:15:08 +0100
Status: RO

Congratulations, MaggiRos!
What is the setting for your novel?
 

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> maggiros@hotmail.com 07/13/02 11:07pm >>>
I know this is off-topic, but I just have to share this with you all!  I 
just got off the phone with a small publisher I happen to know, and well, 
they want to publish my first novel!  Complete details of covers, design, 
pub date and all that are still pending, but wheeeeeee!!!  I'm SO excited, I 
can't stand it!!!

Doing the Happy Dance in L.A. Wheeeeeee!

MaggiRos
Obligatory costume content: Everyone in the novel wears 17th century 
clothes, many of which are taken directly from pictures posted on Nicole 
Kipar's website. :)

_________________________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 09:34:22 +0100
Status: RO

I don't know how much sewing is taught in British schools today. We had needlework classes when I was at a girls' school in the 60s, but the teacher tended to neglect me because I wasn't much good at it! Neither was my Mum; for what little dressmaking we did, she made do with her mother-in-law's old hand-operated Singer (which I still have).
I have the impression that fewer women do home dressmaking now than in my childhood. There used to be a specialist fabric shop in Derby; there are now only market stalls selling dress fabrics. There's such a huge choice of cheap fashionable clothes available that I suppose people only sew if they really want to.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Thread-Topic: Fabric shops in the UK
From: "freyalyn" <freyalyn@ivillage.com>
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 01:54:24 -0700
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It's getting more and more difficult to find decent stuff in general
shopping areas.

I'm extremely lucky, as about a mile from where I live there is a
fabulous fabric shop "The Shuttle". If any
of you are ever in the Bradford, West Yorkshire, area, ask me where it
is. (It's even worth a special trip) It has seasonal fabrics,
furnishing,
cottons, linens, silks, some very good sales, and the owner will get
stuff in for you if you ask.

We also have various Indian/SE Asian fabric shops all over Bradford, but
again, they sell mostly polyesters and
synthetics. Unfortunately the Asian population in Bradford is not such
to encourage luxury fabric for saris and shalwar-kameez.

Freyalyn, who doesn't have enough time in the day. 

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<HTML>
<BODY>
It's getting more and more difficult to find decent stuff in general shopping areas.<br>
<br>
I'm extremely lucky, as about a mile from where I live there is a fabulous fabric shop "The Shuttle".  If any<br>
of you are ever in the Bradford, West Yorkshire, area, ask me where it is.  (It's even worth a special trip) It has seasonal fabrics, furnishing,<br>
cottons, linens, silks, some very good sales, and the owner will get stuff in for you if you ask.<br>
<br>
We also have various Indian/SE Asian fabric shops all over Bradford, but again, they sell mostly polyesters and<br>
synthetics.  Unfortunately the Asian population in Bradford is not such to encourage luxury fabric for saris and shalwar-kameez.<br>
<br>
Freyalyn, who doesn't have enough time in the day.
</BODY></HTML>
<BR><font face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2" style="font-size:13.5px">_______________________________________________________________<BR>Sign up for <A HREF="http://s.ivillage.com/rd/16705">FREE iVillage newsletters</A>.<BR>From health and pregnancy to shopping and relationships, iVillage<BR>has the scoop on what matters most to you.

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Subject: Re: Home sewing UK/US, was [h-cost] Re: different velvets
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 10:11:02 +0100
Status: RO

>I don't know how much sewing is taught in British schools today

Next to nothing & none of the basic skills from what my kids have done !!

We were taught from an early age in school, but it was a very old fashioned
school & some time ago :)

Looking at patterns they are so simple these days they are barely worth
buying, so the average sewer musty be pretty poor

Mel


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jul 15 05:43:06 2002
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric shops in the UK
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 10:25:00 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 There is a superb silk shop in Guildford, Surrey. It is Hansson Silks. Indian
run, beautiful silk taffetas, all for 14 quid per mter, gorgeous silk
embrideries, and brocades. he people are very helpful. They have a web site and
do mail order, send them a colour sample, tell them what you want and off you
go.

http://www.hansson-silks.co.uk/

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Swedish terminology, Bocksten man?
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 21:48:28 +1200
Status: RO

Does anybody have the original Swedish, I have a swedish friend and if it's
not too long I'm sure shed be happy to translate it. As it's a favour I'd be
asking, and not one that directly benefits me I'd rather not ask too much of
her as she just sent me a postcard from London (she's on holiday).

Maybe she can help translate it in context.. you know how different
languages have diffrerent rhythems and patterns.

michaela


> According to my Swedish dictionary:
>
> F"orstygn = running stitch
> Efterstygn = back stitch
>
> Smygs"om isn't listed as such, but possibly = slip stitch?
>
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Curing Rabbit Pelts
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 11:21:58 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

Can anyone help?

As the other half seems to enjoy thinning out the local rabbit population and bringing them home
for us to eat.  I decided it might be worth doing something with all the furs, that otherwise
would go in the bin.  Does anyone have any idea how furs were cured in 16th Century England.  I
have heard of using alum or alum and saltpeter but I have no idea if these were used then and what
quantities would be required.

Many Thanks

Rachel

=====
Rachel

Tudor Bibliography
http://website.lineone.net/~reholliday/Tudor/

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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 06:55:14 -0400
Status: RO

> Looking at patterns they are so simple these days they are barely worth
> buying, so the average sewer musty be pretty poor
>
> Mel
   I felt sad when I discovered a line of patterns called something like
"Sewing for Dummies" in JoAnn's.
Rowena

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume digest, Vol 1 #1046 - 12 msgs
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 06:56:33 -0400
Status: RO

on 7/15/02 1:48 AM, jessica stier at jessicastier@hotmail.com wrote:

> 
> Welcom Back Apollonia.
> 
> I just had to comment on your tag line...  It's very nice to see someone who
> has recongnized the fantastic genious of the Black Adder!  He is one of the
> Greats!!!
> 
> Again, welcome.
> 
> :) jessica
> 
> 
>> Edmund:
>> It's green.
>> Percy:
>> Yes, my lord!
>> Edmund:
>> Percy, the colour of gold, is gold. Whatever you have discovered if
>> it
>> has a name would be called green.
>> Percy: [on discovering the secret of alchemy]
>> Oh Edmund can it be true, that I hold in my mortal hands a nugget of
>> purest GREEN?
>> 
 my fave:

edmond: "You do know what irony is, don't you Baldric?"

baldric: "Yeah...its like goldy and bronzy."

edmond harassing percy about his ruff size was great too.
laurie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: different velvets
From: randl <randl@adelphia.net>
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 06:59:07 -0400
Status: RO

on 7/14/02 11:35 PM, Sue Clemenger at mooncat@in-tch.com wrote:

> Ohhhhh.....gawdd.....You *would* have to post something like that....oh,
> man, oh man, oh man.....I think you've *killed* my credit card....
> See, here's the scoop....A friend and I (who both do historical
> clothing, and, oddly enough, both know Robin) will be in Bath for
> several days in eary September.  We already have shopping and the Roman
> baths on the list (along with the Costume Museum, and the Assembly
> Rooms).  We live in a part of the U.S. where we get decent snowy
> winters, and *no d@mned wool fabric*!!!!, so finding something yummy
> while we're in England would just be a superlative coup!
> --Sue, who would be doing a decent "happy dance" if she weren't so
> blessed *hot* [day 4? 5? of record-breaking temperatures, and *NO* a/c
> or swamp cooler ;-( ]
> 
sorry:)
laurie

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jul 15 07:31:16 2002
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From: Lee Thompson-Herbert <lee@retro.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] dye experiment
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 04:33:54 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO


Okay, so I finally finished totally with my batch of red dyeing.
I used Dharma's procion MX dye #10, Fire Red.  I used the dye fixative
as the last rinse, then a hot wash with Milsoft to restore the fabric's
hand.  The final result is a vibrant true red (no orange tones).  On
both cotton gauze and cotton-lycra knit, the shade is remarkably similar
to the traditional red flannel you can still buy.  Not an exact match,
but very, very close.  This red appears to be colorfast if you use 
enough soda ash and salt in the dye vat and if you use the fixative with
your last rinse (after the excess dye and soda are rinsed out).  I'm 
impressed for a red this bright.  

My previous experiment used procion MX #250 Jet Black, the densest of
the four blacks Dharma offers.  It _is_ possible to get a true black out
of this dye, however it has a reddish-brown cast to it.  Next time around,
I'll probably add some #70 Sapphire Blue to the mix to correct that. Jet
Black tends to wash out quite a bit, which is why the Dharma folks suggested
using the dye fixative.  My first attempt didn't stay in the dye bath 
nearly long enough, and I probably had the pot too crowded as well.  I got
a dark charcoal shade from it, which is still darker than I ever got out
of black RIT dye.  The second try stayed in the dye bath 4 hours, and it's
a true black.  After two cycles through the hot wash (after the fixative),
the dye no longer runs.  The procion dye is also definitely less toxic than
the black Dylon I've used _once_.  That stuff made my whole house smell 
like tar.  On the whole, the procion dyes have been much less noxious
than either Dylon or Deka-L.

Next experiment: #56 Azure Blue.  Dharma staff warns that their bright 
blues need higher temperatures (good thing I do this on the stovetop).
Some of the other blues also need glauber's salt, but this one does not.
I've been told to expect a lot of bleeding until the last of the excess
dye rinses out (even more than the Jet Black).  I think I'll be using
the dye fixative on this one as well.  

All in all, I find the procion dyes to be pretty easy to use, if you're
willing to do it on the stovetop.  My washing machine...er, well, it 
sucks _and_ it wastes a lot of water and electricity.  I've never had
good results with _any_ dye in that machine.  While the procion dyes are
slightly more complicated than the acid dyes I use for silks, it's not
_too_ much moreso, and the dye isn't particularly nasty smelling or toxic.
I still keep the stove hood fan on just to keep the fumes from going all
over the house, but it's not _vile_ like some of the union dyes I've tried.
It can safely be used in the house.

[toddling off to bed now...]
Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Ingrid_G=2E_Storr=F8?= <ingridgs@studorg.hiof.no>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Swedish terminology, Bocksten man?
In-Reply-To: <002901c22be4$c63512a0$cdd3adcb@michaela>
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 13:39:21 +0200 (CEST)
Status: RO

On Mon, 15 Jul 2002, michaela wrote:

> Does anybody have the original Swedish

Yup! :) 

"Alla sömmar, utom de där stadkant ligger mot stadkant, är sydda med 
dubbla sömmar. Tygstyckerna har först satts ihop, sedan har båda 
sömsmånerna vikts åt samma håll och sytts ned mot tyget. Fållarna längs 
nederkant, ärmlinningar och halsrigning är sydda med enkel vikning. 
Vilken typ av stygn som använts till de olika sömmarna är svårt att 
bedömma på grund av det stora antalet stygnmärken i tyget. Möjligen har 
sömmarna sytts ihop med för- eller efterstygn och sedan har sömsmånerna 
sytts ned mot tyget med förstygn eller kastestygn. Vid återmonteringen 
syddes alla sömmar med smygsöm og sömsmånerna kastades fast åt det håll 
de strävade. Fållerna gick til skillnad mot sömmarna att sy i de 
ursprungliga stygnhålen. De har sannolikt varit sydda med kaststygn, 
vilket också gjordes vid återmonteringen."

Translation of the word "smygsöm" is basically the only thing left that 
I'm wondering about; even though I'm still not entirely certain that I 
understand how the seam allowances are fastened. But I _think_ I 
understand how. If your friend has input on that as well that would 
be great. But it it's a lot of trouble for her to translate, please 
don't bother her. :)  

Thanks for the help so far, people! :)

Ingrid 

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From: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Curing Rabbit Pelts
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 06:42:08 -0500
Status: RO

Don't know the time frame, but it seems old to me. Pelts can be cured by
rubbing the skin side with lard or shortening, sprinkling them with
flour, rolling them fur side out, tying them with twine and storing them
for a period of time. You need to experiment as to what that period of
time is, but if I remember correctly, it's about 3-4 weeks. I had good
luck with curing deer hides, but usually lost them to the coyotes. They
are persistent little critters and could break into any shed I tried to
keep them out of.

Check out the Foxfire books.

Amanda
GRITS Rule
Girls Raised In The South


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Rachel
Sent: Monday, July 15, 2002 5:22 AM
To: europe16thc; H-costume list
Subject: [h-cost] Curing Rabbit Pelts


Can anyone help?

As the other half seems to enjoy thinning out the local rabbit
population and bringing them home for us to eat.  I decided it might be
worth doing something with all the furs, that otherwise would go in the
bin.  Does anyone have any idea how furs were cured in 16th Century
England.  I have heard of using alum or alum and saltpeter but I have no
idea if these were used then and what quantities would be required.

Many Thanks

Rachel

=====
Rachel

Tudor Bibliography http://website.lineone.net/~reholliday/Tudor/

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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 22:35:45 +0930
Status: RO

<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>Hi</DIV>
<DIV>A cousin of mine has a commemorative book of Queen Elizabeth II's coronation, and in it is a bit about the weavers of woolen velvet used in the robes of the English nobles, and apparantly has been used for several 100 years. He also owns a robe/cloak worn by one of the baroness' (I think), pictured in the book. But I'm yet to see it.</DIV>
<DIV>My cousin is an antique dealer.</DIV>
<DIV>Rebecca</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&gt;I'm sure I've heard of wool velvet, for the 18th c. at least.&nbsp; Am told one<BR>&gt;can find wool velvet used for theatre seats and curtains.<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt;Cheers,<BR>&gt;Mara<BR>&gt;</DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: <a href='http://g.msn.com/1HM1ENAU/c156??PI=44314'>Click Here</a><br></html>
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Subject: [h-cost] Wal-mart pre-cuts
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 08:44:44 -0500
Status: RO

I'm happy to hear there was such an uproar over the pre-cuts.  I haven't been back to this particular store in my area, despite it's being one of the really big Wal-marts, because of the pre-cuts.  I guess I will have to give them a try.  I did find a nice period looking 'wool' at another store this weekend.  It has burn tested with at least some poly but at $1 a yard it looks period enough for some folks I know that want to try Viking.

Silk; one of the best, and most fun, places I found for silk shopping was in the Indian sari shops in Vancouver, British Columbia.  The owners were very helpful to two chicks who obviously didn't 'belong' and we found some real treasures buried on the shelves.  It was also fun to drool over the tunics and trousers displayed for sale.  They assured me they could make something to fit me but I declined :).

Catherine

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From: Crissy <sewinggoddess@att.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] English fabric shops
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 10:55:22 -0400
Status: RO




>
> <snip> We took the 'rail out to Bath as a daytrip
> and discovered a rather hole-in-the-wall fabric shop. <snip> I don't recall
> the name of it, but Bath
> isn't terribly large. I do recall that it wasn't far from the roman baths.

    Oooh! I'm actually in  the planning stage of a trip to England next May and,
if anyone can give me specifics as to where this shop is, I'd appreciate it!
Time is going to be very limited, so the less hunting I can do to find a
location, the better.
    I'm also going to have a day or so free in London on this trip.   It seems
that I'm the local person who all my friends go to for advice on fabrics and
where to find the hard to find stuff. They're already asking about the  fabric
shopping in London! It doesn't seem to matter that I've never been there
before...

    What we're specifically looking for is a place that sells good quality
English Wools, in tropical weights. We're all from Florida that are going on
this trip, so lightweight wool is the goal!  We do SCA reenactment, different
countries and eras of specialties.   My era is Italian, 1450-1525, although we
do have a few people that specialize in England and france around the same time
frame on this trip. Also, Middle Eastern, too. (Yes I know we are a very mixed
group!)
     Any advice on those Sari shops, needlework shops ( Bjarne-- what was the
address and name of that one on Oxford street?) , places that sell steel boning,
and are any of these places open at night or do they all close at five pm ?
Any "off the wall" places I really need to visit because it's not period for
anything we do but it's such cool fabrics anyway?
     I've costumed people ranging from Brides to exotic dancers and just about
every time frame except futuristic/fantasy, and that seems to be looming on the
horizon as we speak!   Any advice y'all can give this fabric junkie  to arrange
a once in a lifetime London halfday fabric tour would be greatly appreciated!
( the other half of the day is going to be spent at the V& A Museum.  I've
always wanted to go there and I *know* a half day is not enough time.....)

  Thanks for the help and advice and locations!
Crissy


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Subject: [h-cost] Very OT, but important if you're a Yahoo user
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 08:00:40 -0700 (PDT)
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 If you use Yahoo, did you ever notice that your email doesn't always say what you wrote? Read on...

BTW--I did try it and the words *are* changed. Since this is going out through my yahoo account, I put astericks in place of a vowel in each word that Yahoo changes.

Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 11:03:19 -0400
> To: Declan McCullagh <declan@well.com>
> From: Monty Solomon <monty@roscom.com>
> Subject: Do y*u Y*h**?
> 
> http://www.ntk.net/2002/07/12/
> 
>                                   >> HARD NEWS <<
> 
>                                  in powers of two
> 
>            Nice to see, in the midst of all these scandals, Yahoo
>            turning a healthy profit. But as other companies fiddle the
>            figures, Yahoo's been busy instead with fiddling its own
>            users' private correspondence. In a fantastically clumsy
>            attempt to prevent cross-site scripting attacks, the free
>            e-mail wing of the sprawling giant has long been replacing
>            complete English words in the text of HTML mail sent to its
>            users. Mention "m*cha" in an HTML mail to a friend with a
>            @yahoo.com account, and your choice in coffee will be
>            silently switched to "espresso". Talk about "free
>            expressi*n", and your recipient will think you said "free
>            statement". Here's the full list of swaperoos:
>            http://www.ntk.net/2002/07/12/yahoo.txt
>                                    - try not to mail it to your friends
> 
>            This fiddling has been going on now for over a year year
>            (the ever vigilant RISKS digest noted it back in March
>            2001). But because of Yahoo's underhand methods, very few
>            people have spotted the turnabout - certainly far fewer than
>            if Yahoo had done the sensible thing and, say, "**"'ed out
>            the vowels in the word, or, God forbid, written a smarter
>            parser. But the sneakier you are, the wider the damage
>            spreads. The word "medi*val" (since it contains the
>            javascript command "eval") is converted in Yahoo mail to
>            "medireview". Google now shows over 640 sites (and 1,150
>            separate instances) of the word "medireview" being used as a
>            synonym for medieval. University papers, bibliographies and
>            book reviews, Indian newspaper columnists, and endless
>            enthusiast sites drop it unseen into texts. People have
>            begun to ask where it originally came from, and does it have
>            a subtler meaning beyond "medieval"? Is Yahoo ever going to
>            fix its filters? Or is it time we pushed to get the first
>            regexp-obfuscated word into the Oxford English Dictionary?
>            http://catless.ncl.ac.uk/Risks/21.34.html
>              - does anyone still at Yahoo even know how to turn it off?
>            http://www.google.com/search?q=medireview
>                             - NTK now entirely filled with google links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------
> POLITECH -- Declan McCullagh's politics and technology mailing list
> You may redistribute this message freely if you include this notice.
> To subscribe to Politech: http://www.politechbot.com/info/subscribe.html
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<P>&nbsp;If you use Yahoo, did you ever notice that your email doesn't always say what you wrote? Read on...</P>
<P>BTW--I did try it and the words *are* changed. Since this is going out through my yahoo account, I put astericks in place of a vowel in each word that Yahoo changes.</P>
<P>Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 11:03:19 -0400<BR>&gt; To: Declan McCullagh &lt;<A href="mailto:declan@well.com">declan@well.com</A>&gt;<BR>&gt; From: Monty Solomon &lt;<A href="mailto:monty@roscom.com">monty@roscom.com</A>&gt;<BR>&gt; Subject: Do y*u Y*h**?<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; <A href="http://www.ntk.net/2002/07/12/">http://www.ntk.net/2002/07/12/</A><BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &gt;&gt; HARD NEWS &lt;&lt;<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; in powers of two<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Nice to see, in the midst of all these scandals, Yahoo<BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&!
nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; turning a healthy profit. But as other companies fiddle the<BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; figures, Yahoo's been busy instead with fiddling its own<BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; users' private correspondence. In a fantastically clumsy<BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; attempt to prevent cross-site scripting attacks, the free<BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; e-mail wing of the sprawling giant has long been replacing<BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; complete English words in the text of HTML mail sent to its<BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; users. Mention "m*cha" in an HTML mail to a friend with a<BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; @yahoo.com account, and your choice in coffee will be<BR>&gt; &nbsp!
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; silen!
tly switched to "espresso". Talk about "free<BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; expressi*n", and your recipient will think you said "free<BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; statement". Here's the full list of swaperoos:<BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <A href="http://www.ntk.net/2002/07/12/yahoo.txt">http://www.ntk.net/2002/07/12/yahoo.txt</A><BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; - try not to mail it to your friends<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; This fiddling has been going on now for over a year year<BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; (the ever vigilant RISKS digest noted it back in March<BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb!
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 2001). But because of Yahoo's underhand methods, very few<BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; people have spotted the turnabout - certainly far fewer than<BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; if Yahoo had done the sensible thing and, say, "**"'ed out<BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; the vowels in the word, or, God forbid, written a smarter<BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; parser. But the sneakier you are, the wider the damage<BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; spreads. The word "medi*val" (since it contains the<BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; javascript command "eval") is converted in Yahoo mail to<BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; "medireview". Google now shows over 640 sites (and 1,150<BR>&gt; &!
nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; s!
eparate instances) of the word "medireview" being used as a<BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; synonym for medieval. University papers, bibliographies and<BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; book reviews, Indian newspaper columnists, and endless<BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; enthusiast sites drop it unseen into texts. People have<BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; begun to ask where it originally came from, and does it have<BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; a subtler meaning beyond "medieval"? Is Yahoo ever going to<BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; fix its filters? Or is it time we pushed to get the first<BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; regexp-obfuscated word into the Oxford English Dictionary?<BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp!
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <A href="http://catless.ncl.ac.uk/Risks/21.34.html">http://catless.ncl.ac.uk/Risks/21.34.html</A><BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; - does anyone still at Yahoo even know how to turn it off?<BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <A href="http://www.google.com/search?q=medireview">http://www.google.com/search?q=medireview</A><BR>&gt; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; - NTK now entirely filled with google links<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; -------------------------------------------------------------------------<BR>&gt; POLITECH -- Declan McCullagh's politics and technology mailing list<BR>&gt; You may redistribute this message freely if you include this notice.<BR>&gt; To subscribe to Politech: <A href="http://www.politechbot.!
com/info/subscribe.html">http://www.politechbot.com/info/subs!
cribe.html</A><BR>&gt; This message is archived at <A href="http://www.politechbot.com/">http://www.politechbot.com/</A><BR>&gt; Declan McCullagh's photographs are at <A href="http://www.mccullagh.org/">http://www.mccullagh.org/</A><BR>&gt; -------------------------------------------------------------------------<BR>&gt; Like Politech? Make a donation here: <A href="http://www.politechbot.com/donate/">http://www.politechbot.com/donate/</A><BR>&gt; -------------------------------------------------------------------------<BR></P><p><br><hr size=1><b>Do You Yahoo!?</b><br>
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From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kyoto Costume Institute (WAS: Intro and Revolution In Fashion book)
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 15:05:30 +0000
Status: RO

Hm yes, it's really fun to browse...

But I really wish they would answer me about buying the book...

Maybe they're on vacation???


>From: "Kendra Van Cleave" <kendrav@attbi.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Kyoto Costume Institute (WAS: Intro and Revolution In 
>Fashion book)
>Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 15:27:14 -0700
>
>I'm assuming everyone found the Kyoto Costume Institute's digital
>collections, but in case you didn't, they have some great photos of 
>costumes
>from their collection at:
>
>http://www.kci.or.jp/collection/collset-e.html
>
>- Kendra
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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From: "Cynthia Abel" <brujne@bluejay.creighton.edu>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kyoto Costume Institute
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 10:09:26 -0500
Status: RO

The rather sudden move to a high-waisted, narrow-skirted gown in lighter
fabrics in the 1785-1800 timeframe was truly revolutionary and a big shock
to ladies' wardrobes. (I have this book, by the way!)Englishwomen followed a
more bulky look in the skirt with some heavier fabrics and obviously more
petticoats than the fashion leaders of France in the same time frame. This
may have been a result of climate as well as culture for both countries.
Marie Antoinette had made more casual, but still expensive, gowns of
imported muslin(much to the rage of the silk-weaving trade in Lyons,
France)and Englishwomen had first hand-painted or printed silks, and then
hand-painted or printed cottons from British Empire colonies and trade
connections in Asia and India all well before 1785.(I wish Dover would
reprint some of the plates from the English "Gallery of Fashion" in their
original colors to show the English style of the higher waist c1794-1804).
It really shows that what we call the "empire look" was considered best on
tall women with some weight to them. "Does my butt look big enough in this"
(pear-shaped women rejoyced) might have been the query of the day from wives
to husbands.

The last high-waisted look had been in vogue 1620's-30's, but skirts had
been full. Many women simply let down hems and raised the skirt to the new,
higher level under the bust, keeping the extra material, as evidenced by
some surviving gowns, within the dress. Clearly women thought the higher
waist was a fad, a craze, for things "antique" and when all these
revolutionaries came to their senses, fashion would revert to the "normal"
waistline.


Cindy Abel


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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wal-mart pre-cuts
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 10:15:47 -0700
Status: RO


>I'm happy to hear there was such an uproar over the pre-cuts.  I haven't 
>been back to this particular store in my area, despite it's being one of 
>the really big Wal-marts, because of the pre-cuts.  I guess I will have to 
>give them a try.

I routinely strike out at WalMart, in the fabric section.  But I look every 
time I go to one for something else (last time it was for a new car 
battery).  I did score big once only, and that was finding a couple of 
bundled remnants of windowpane muslin (batiste-thin cloth with a thicker 
thread every half inch both ways, making a grid).  I'd read about it, and 
seen pictures of it, but I never saw it for sale anywhere, before or 
since.  I'm not sure if I want to do a Regency day dress with it, or part 
of an Edwardian lingerie dress.


Kayta

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kyoto Costume Institute
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 10:20:49 -0700
Status: RO


>Clearly women thought the higher
>waist was a fad, a craze, for things "antique" and when all these
>revolutionaries came to their senses, fashion would revert to the "normal"
>waistline.

But it did - took about 25+ years to do it, but it did.


Kayta

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jul 15 14:04:12 2002
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 13:46:21 -0400
Status: RO

Hi folks,
I've been away for awhile but saw some emails about Costume College in Van Nuys.  I'll be teaching a class on Sunday on making a Dickens Carolling Bonnet.  If possible, perhaps the h-costume group there could get together for lunch.  I'd love to join you!  Please let me know. See you there!

Donna Scarfe
Fyne Hats By Felicity
Period Hats for Past Ages
www.fynehatsbyfelicity.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kyoto Costume Institute
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 11:43:22 -0700
Status: RO

Oh boy, I'm feeling really embarrassed now, because it seems no one has 
heard from the Kyoto Costume Institute about the book, even though I had no 
problems. :-(  If it helps any, this is the address of the person who 
responded to me, and this is the email they responded with:

From: "zK" <kci-suwa@wacoal.co.jp>
To: <Kiloran@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: books from museum catalog
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 15:25:47 +0900
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200

Thank you for your mail.
I could send you the catalogue by C.O.D..
It is the only way to send you it.
When you order one catalogue, the estimation is
about US$45.(including the delivery cost)
Excuse me.The price you wrote in the mail is
only in Japan.
If you could accept this condition, please let me know
your address and telephone number.

Sincerely,
Motofumi Suwa
The Kyoto Costume Institute

-----------------------------------------------------------------
Maybe you can try emailing this person directly. Maybe that'll help. Maybe 
they =are= on vacation....

Julie


At 11:04 AM 7/15/2002, you wrote:

>Message: 1
>From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kyoto Costume Institute (WAS: Intro and Revolution 
>In Fashion book)
>Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 15:05:30 +0000
>Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
>Hm yes, it's really fun to browse...
>
>But I really wish they would answer me about buying the book...
>
>Maybe they're on vacation???


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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 13:00:47 -0700
Status: RO


> There are also lots of patchwork shops, and those selling fabric for
> Asian traditional clothing, but neither of those are much good for
> historic costuming, or even modern Western clothes.  In the areas I've
> been, all the Asian stores sell 100% polyester only. 

And often calling it "palace silk" making you think you're getting 
real silk. ;)



Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
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Subject: RE: Re: [h-cost] Fabric Prices 
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 13:00:47 -0700
Status: RO


>         My most expensive stuff (carefully folded in my grandmother's
>         old
> trunk....
> 
> Not to be a wet blanket, but could you roll it instead of folding it? 
> Won't the creases be hard to get out?

Rolling does not totally negate creasing. I found out the hard way 
(because I thought that rolling would not wrinkle things as much as 
folding) that sometimes rolling is even worse. The whole thing 
turned into one mass of wrinkles.

Technique while rolling is also important. Putting layers of acid free 
paper as you roll and rolling more loosely as you roll and putting 
nothing on top helps.

However, since many conservators still fold (but open it out, air it 
out, put the acid free paper back in and then fold it using a different 
folding pattern), folding is still an option. (You just have to do it right 
too.)

Keeping your special fabrics and clothing items conserved is time 
consuming and can be expensive if done 100% right (special acid 
free constructed closets with special humidity and airflow 
characteristics, acid free containers, acid free papers around 
everything.)


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Allergies vs Reactions
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 13:00:47 -0700
Status: RO


>  He asked me if I had
> any allergies, and I dutifully replied, as I had been taught by my
> Mother, "Penicillin and Compozine". Rather than just write these down
> (dutifully), he asked my why I thought I had those allergies. The
> first was inherited, I told him, and the second came from an episode
> when I was 18, when my appendix burst. He then asked if I had ever
> been tested for these "allergies". I said "no", and he told me that
> what I thought I had in the first case was unproven, and in the second
> was a reaction, not an allergy. He asked if I wished to be tested for
> the above.

One of the problems with allergies *is* the terminology and also is 
"folk lore".

A common "folklore" is that if your parent is allergic to something, 
then you are probably allergic to it too. However, have an allergic 
parent just means that you have a higher chance of being allergic 
to *anything* (and not necessarily the same thing as your parent.) 
Having two parents with allergies raises the risk still more (basic 
genetics.)

An example, my mother is allergic to penicillin, but I'm allergic, not 
in the least to penicillin, but to codeine, sulfa and a few other 
things. Lucky me. But at least I didn't have the penicillin allergy too.

*What* you become allergic to is totally dependant upon your 
exposure. If you get sulfa at the wrong time, rather than penicillin, 
then it is sulfa you will become allergic to.

And there is *no* predicting what you will become allergic to. You 
can have an allergy starting on your last day of the medication (as 
you have to have some exposure *before* your first dose to acquire 
the allergy) or the first day (if and only if you were previously 
exposed, such as while your mom was nursing you she was on 
antibiotics for a breast infection, you've had the med before without 
any known problems, or it was in small doses in something else 
like the meat you ate at some point, or in extremely rare cases in 
a vegetable that had some naturally occurring medication in it.)

Then there is the "allergy" which is because you had a bad time 
with a medication (such as vomiting, wry neck, dizziness, 
euphoria, etc.) People frequently say they have an allergy to things 
like wool, compazine, pain meds, etc. for this type of reason, 
which is more of a "reaction" than an allergy.

Unfortunately, not everything that someone is allergic to can be 
tested for. Also, the means of testing can be "monitored trial" (ie. 
taking the substance, food or medication, while you are close to 
the doctor's office in case of problems), "food challenge" (eating the 
food to see if it still is a problem), blood tests (for some foods and 
meds), skin prick testing (for some foods, meds, animals, foreign 
substances such as chemicals, dust, dustmites and the like) and 
patch testing (chemicals, fabrics, etc.) Which type you use 
depends on the type and/or severity of the allergy (with true 
anaphylaxis being the most severe and skin rashes not considered 
severe unless it is major hives, aka true urticaria.)

Some things they have tests for are not accurate for the thing they 
are testing. There was a big thing for food blood testing about 10 
years ago where they did IgA testing. However, IgE testing is the 
only blood testing that works. IgA testing just means that you have 
been exposed to the item, usually recently, not that you have an 
allergy to it. It is sometimes useful for determining which things to 
do food challenges on (for food that don't have prick tests or IgE 
testing.)

Hope that helps.


June M. Russell, MD
<kat@grendal.rain.com>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jul 15 16:40:04 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Very OT, but important if you're a Yahoo user
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 13:23:54 -0700
Status: RO

Yet another good reason not to use HTML mail.

MaggiRos


>From: kj green <macailith@yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] Very OT, but important if you're a Yahoo user
>Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 08:00:40 -0700 (PDT)
>
>
>  If you use Yahoo, did you ever notice that your email doesn't always say 
>what you wrote? Read on...
>
>BTW--I did try it and the words *are* changed. Since this is going out 
>through my yahoo account, I put astericks in place of a vowel in each word 
>that Yahoo changes.
>
>Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 11:03:19 -0400
> > To: Declan McCullagh <declan@well.com>
> > From: Monty Solomon <monty@roscom.com>
> > Subject: Do y*u Y*h**?
> >
> > http://www.ntk.net/2002/07/12/
> >
> >                                   >> HARD NEWS <<
> >
> >                                  in powers of two
> >
> >            Nice to see, in the midst of all these scandals, Yahoo
> >            turning a healthy profit. But as other companies fiddle the
> >            figures, Yahoo's been busy instead with fiddling its own
> >            users' private correspondence. In a fantastically clumsy
> >            attempt to prevent cross-site scripting attacks, the free
> >            e-mail wing of the sprawling giant has long been replacing
> >            complete English words in the text of HTML mail sent to its
> >            users.


<snip>

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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 17:03:03 -0400
Status: RO

I'm beginning to feel lucky...New York's an hour (depending on traffic - though I
usually take the train) north and Philadelphia is a hour south.  I've got Little
India about 45 minutes away and an okay Jo-Ann's and Rag Shop close by plus one
independent who seems to get fabric castoffs from New York in addition to other
stuff.

Kate



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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 14:23:56 -0700
Status: RO

This happens in plaintext E-mail as well.  I've had it happen to me, both 
sending and receiving.  It may be that the problem only occurs when you 
send the E-mail from a Yahoo address, because mail sent from Yahoo Mail 
passes through Yahoo's JavaScript composition page.

Betsy Perry


At 01:23 PM 7/15/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>Yet another good reason not to use HTML mail.
>
>MaggiRos
>
>
>>From: kj green <macailith@yahoo.com>
>>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>>To: h-costume@indra.com
>>Subject: [h-cost] Very OT, but important if you're a Yahoo user
>>Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 08:00:40 -0700 (PDT)
>>
>>
>>  If you use Yahoo, did you ever notice that your email doesn't always 
>> say what you wrote? Read on...
>>
>>BTW--I did try it and the words *are* changed. Since this is going out 
>>through my yahoo account, I put astericks in place of a vowel in each 
>>word that Yahoo changes.
>>
>>Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 11:03:19 -0400
>> > To: Declan McCullagh <declan@well.com>
>> > From: Monty Solomon <monty@roscom.com>
>> > Subject: Do y*u Y*h**?
>> >
>> > http://www.ntk.net/2002/07/12/
>> >
>> >                                   >> HARD NEWS <<
>> >
>> >                                  in powers of two
>> >
>> >            Nice to see, in the midst of all these scandals, Yahoo
>> >            turning a healthy profit. But as other companies fiddle the
>> >            figures, Yahoo's been busy instead with fiddling its own
>> >            users' private correspondence. In a fantastically clumsy
>> >            attempt to prevent cross-site scripting attacks, the free
>> >            e-mail wing of the sprawling giant has long been replacing
>> >            complete English words in the text of HTML mail sent to its
>> >            users.
>
>
><snip>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: 
>http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

Be well, do good work, and keep in touch.  - G. Keillor
Betsy Hanes Perry  betsy.perry@oracle.com

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From: "Sarah Lorraine" <sarah@elizabethanlady.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT Allergies vs Reactions
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 18:48:26 -0400
Status: RO



> 
> >  He asked me if I had
> > any allergies, and I dutifully replied, as I had been taught by my
> > Mother, "Penicillin and Compozine". Rather than just write these 
down
> > (dutifully), he asked my why I thought I had those allergies. The
> > first was inherited, I told him, and the second came from an episode
> > when I was 18, when my appendix burst. He then asked if I had ever
> > been tested for these "allergies". I said "no", and he told me that
> > what I thought I had in the first case was unproven, and in the 
second
> > was a reaction, not an allergy. He asked if I wished to be tested 
for
> > the above.
> 
> One of the problems with allergies *is* the terminology and also is 
> "folk lore".
> 
> A common "folklore" is that if your parent is allergic to something, 
> then you are probably allergic to it too. However, have an allergic 
> parent just means that you have a higher chance of being allergic 
> to *anything* (and not necessarily the same thing as your parent.) 
> Having two parents with allergies raises the risk still more (basic 
> genetics.)

Interesting... I discovered I was allergic to penicillin after my first 
wisdom tooth extraction when I was 21.  Up until that point, I had been 
routinely given penicillin (and amoxicillin) as a kid to combat strep 
throat infections that I would get nearly every year up until I was 
17.  After a week of being on the penicillin as a precaution following 
the oral surgery I broke out in a mild rash on my torso.  The doctor 
took one look at it and said "You're having an allergic reaction.  Quit 
taking the penicillin and never touch another antibiotic that ends in '-
cillin' ever again."  I stopped the penicillin and the rash went away 
and that was that.  My dad was deathly allergic to penicillin, but we 
never assumed that would be enough to keep either my sister or I from 
taking it.  His allergy showed up pretty much the same way mine did, 
though: After years of taking it as a kid, at the age of 21, after 
being drafted for Vietnam, he came down with a horrendous case of 
pneumonia.  The doctors gave him penicillin and he broke out in huge 
purple welts all over his body.  After that if he so much as breathed 
spores from mouldy bread he had an allergic reaction.  My allergy is no 
where near as bad, and I sometimes wonder if I really was having 
allergic reaction, but my doctor advised me to just avoid the -cillin 
drugs to be on the safe side (he mentioned the possibility of inducing 
a worse reaction with a second exposure, and since I have a killer 
immune system and the drugs are rather over-prescribed to begin with, 
I'm not terribly worried).

Sarah
http://www.elizabethanlady.com
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From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] dress questions
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 17:54:06 -0500
Status: RO

http://www.marquise.de/1500/weigel/wgl22.shtml

I just found this picture which is almost the exact same dress as the
respectable woman of Geneva in Janet Arnold's book. I would like some of
your opinions on a few questions I have.

1) The collar - how would this be made? attached? kept in an upright
position?
2) The skirt/bodice meeting point - since her arms are crossed in front, can
anyone take a guess if this is a separate bodice and skirt or a one-piece
gown? Would the bodice come to a point in the front or be flat? On a second
look, the guarding from the bodice does not follow down the front of the
skirt. Would bodice and skirt, if separate, be different fabrics?
3) My guess is that there is no farthingale under this skirt - anyone else?
4) Any comments on the head gear? This is different than the Genevan woman,
who has what looks like a caul and some sort of soft cap/hat on over that.
Is this some variation of coif, perhaps?
5) Anyone know where Argentoratensis is?

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
Bristol,
BRF FOF

So many books, so little time

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************


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From: Linda Krecker-Schkred <rhianwen@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: fabric stores, was: different velvets
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 17:53:52 -0400
Status: RO

Really... That should put you in central New Jersey.

So, where exactly are you. I'm in Whippany and the Garment district 
(seems at least) is a second home.

Linda K-S

At 5:03 PM -0400 7/15/02, Kate Pinner wrote:
>I'm beginning to feel lucky...New York's an hour (depending on 
>traffic - though I
>usually take the train) north and Philadelphia is a hour south. 
>I've got Little
>India about 45 minutes away and an okay Jo-Ann's and Rag Shop close 
>by plus one
>independent who seems to get fabric castoffs from New York in 
>addition to other
>stuff.
>
>Kate
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kyoto Costume Institute
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 19:37:02 -0400
Status: RO

How many people are interested in ordering a copy of the book?  Maybe we can
do better on the communications side if they only have to deal with one large
order instead of lots of individual ones . . .


--jen




Kiloran@worldnet.att.net wrote:

> Oh boy, I'm feeling really embarrassed now, because it seems no one has
> heard from the Kyoto Costume Institute about the book, even though I had no
> problems. :-(  If it helps any, this is the address of the person who
> responded to me, and this is the email they responded with:
>
> From: "zK" <kci-suwa@wacoal.co.jp>
> To: <Kiloran@worldnet.att.net>
> Subject: Re: books from museum catalog
> Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 15:25:47 +0900
> X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200
>
> Thank you for your mail.
> I could send you the catalogue by C.O.D..
> It is the only way to send you it.
> When you order one catalogue, the estimation is
> about US$45.(including the delivery cost)
> Excuse me.The price you wrote in the mail is
> only in Japan.
> If you could accept this condition, please let me know
> your address and telephone number.
>
> Sincerely,
> Motofumi Suwa
> The Kyoto Costume Institute
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------

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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 18:55:43 -0500
Status: RO

I'd be interested in a copy for $45. If an order goes in, please count me
in on it!


Karen

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric Prices
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 19:23:05 -0600
Status: RO

The stuff I've got in there is either not stuff that creases easily, or
it's something like handkerchief linen that'll crease no matter what you
do <g>, until you wash it and iron it.  Also, some of it's carefully
folded with the right kind of paper.
I live in a trailer, and don't really have any sort of room for rolled
fabrics.  I can put my best stuff (the really expensive brocades, the
embroidered antique silk satin from my grandfather, the better pieces of
wool, and my even-count-same-thread-count-in-both-directions
handkerchief linen into that trunk and know that it's safe from critter
nibbling (not mice, necessarily...I have a cat that eats silk and wool),
and dust and snagging that might happen if it were on a roll and crammed
into one of my two closets.
--Sue

Martha Kelly wrote:
> 
>         My most expensive stuff (carefully folded in my grandmother's old
> trunk....
> 
> Not to be a wet blanket, but could you roll it instead of folding it?  Won't
> the creases be hard to get out?
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jul 15 21:51:07 2002
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From: "Allison Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Costume College - final tally
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 21:35:22 -0400
Status: RO

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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I've made up a list of the folks who will be at Costume College. If others
are interested, email me privately and I'll send it to you in .txt (plain
text) format.

I'd like to meet some of yall, and I thought the idea of adding a red "H" to
our tags is as good an identified as any. Is that what I should look for,
and put on my tag?

Allison

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<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>I've made up a list of the folks who will be at =
Costume College. If others are interested, email me privately and I'll =
send it to you in .txt (plain text) format.</FONT></P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>I'd like to meet some of yall, and I thought the idea =
of adding a red &quot;H&quot; to our tags is as good an identified as =
any. Is that what I should look for, and put on my tag?</FONT></P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Allison</FONT>
</P>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jul 15 21:52:22 2002
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT Allergies vs Reactions
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 21:48:29 -0400
Status: RO

The first stage penicillin reaction is the fine rash, I had
it too.
But that's just the sensitivity stage.

	Next time, watch out.  You may very well have an
anaphylactic reaction----hives, swelling---including major
swelling shut of the airway!----and extremely irregular
heart beat.
	In other words, you can be dead in 5 or 10 minutes, and it
won't be fun.

	I was about 45 when I got the rash, and was also told never
to take any "illin" again also, unless as a last resort.

	And if you do ever wind up taking some, stick around, don't
let them leave you alone.  If it's going to happen, it will
probably be right away, and can be treated.

Diane S.






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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jul 15 21:58:57 2002
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 21:50:51 -0400
Status: RO

STRAIGHT wrote:
> The first stage penicillin reaction is the fine rash, I had
> it too.
> But that's just the sensitivity stage.
> 
> 	Next time, watch out.  You may very well have an
> anaphylactic reaction----hives, swelling---including major
> swelling shut of the airway!----and extremely irregular
> heart beat.
>

	That's what someone told me, too but I wasn't sure if she 
knew what she was talking about. I've now gotten the rash 
reaction from 4 different antibiotics (I carry a note in my 
wallet on top of my license), and I've wondered if this 
could happen if somehow I got dosed with something by mistake.
	E-mycin, Amoxy, Bactrim and Sulfa (unless I'm confusing the 
last two and forgot what the 4th is) are all out of bounds 
for me.
	-Judy Mitchell


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kyoto Costume Institute
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 18:55:16 -0700
Status: RO

I'd be interested in the Revolution in Fashion book... Just haven't gotten
around to contacting them.

- Kendra



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Jul 15 22:54:21 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kyoto Costume Institute
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 21:35:15 -0500
Status: RO

At 07:37 PM 7/15/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>How many people are interested in ordering a copy of the book?  Maybe we can
>do better on the communications side if they only have to deal with one large
>order instead of lots of individual ones . . .
>
>
>--jen

I would definitely be interested.  I've been lusting after that book for 
awhile...

Cheers,
Danielle

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kyoto Costume Institute
In-Reply-To: <5.0.0.25.2.20020715213434.036900c0@mail.attbi.com>
 "from Danielle Nunn-Weinberg at Jul 15, 2002 09:35:15 pm"
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 19:42:04 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

me too -- and I did contact them, and heard back once, but not again.


.heather.

> At 07:37 PM 7/15/2002 -0400, you wrote:
> >How many people are interested in ordering a copy of the book?  Maybe we can
> >do better on the communications side if they only have to deal with one large
> >order instead of lots of individual ones . . .
> >
> >
> >--jen
> 
> I would definitely be interested.  I've been lusting after that book for 
> awhile...
> 
> Cheers,
> Danielle
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Austrian/German holiday: suggestions?
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 23:16:02 -0400
Status: RO

Hi. Sorry, I wasn't meaning to say that Aachen wasn't anything other than
beautiful, just recounting what I found when I was there long ago, but quite a few
years after the war. I'm glad that things were cleaned up. I was truly surprised
when I came across the buildings back then. I also got a nasty surprise that day
when I was stopped by the Grenschutzpolizei while perusing a Red Brigades/ Bader
Meinhoff Gang poster. Up until that time, I had never had a fully automatic loaded
and cocked weapon pointed at me. It made me realize that I had taken my American
freedoms for granted (which I never have again, and is even more meaningful in
these latter days). I'm glad to know that things improved since then. I have always
been and will always be a Germanophile. As to the obligatory costume content, I
believe that the Cathedral at Aachen has some lovely textiles from Charlemagne's
time onward on display, as well as some furniture and jewelry. Besides that, it is
the crossroads into the three other neighboring countries.  Cheers, Mike T.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kyoto Costume Institute
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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 00:13:24 -0400
Status: RO

I'd be interested.
Moira


> How many people are interested in ordering a copy of the book?  Maybe we
can
> do better on the communications side if they only have to deal with one
large
> order instead of lots of individual ones . . .
>
>
> --jen
>
>
>
>
> Kiloran@worldnet.att.net wrote:
>
> > Oh boy, I'm feeling really embarrassed now, because it seems no one has
> > heard from the Kyoto Costume Institute about the book, even though I had
no
> > problems. :-(  If it helps any, this is the address of the person who
> > responded to me, and this is the email they responded with:
> >
> > From: "zK" <kci-suwa@wacoal.co.jp>
> > To: <Kiloran@worldnet.att.net>
> > Subject: Re: books from museum catalog
> > Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 15:25:47 +0900
> > X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200
> >
> > Thank you for your mail.
> > I could send you the catalogue by C.O.D..
> > It is the only way to send you it.
> > When you order one catalogue, the estimation is
> > about US$45.(including the delivery cost)
> > Excuse me.The price you wrote in the mail is
> > only in Japan.
> > If you could accept this condition, please let me know
> > your address and telephone number.
> >
> > Sincerely,
> > Motofumi Suwa
> > The Kyoto Costume Institute
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 00:31:02 -0400
Status: RO

I'm very interested. I contacted them already through the general address -
no luck. So if someone is organizing a general order and has more luck with
it, I'd very gladly jump in!
Audrey

> > How many people are interested in ordering a copy of the book?  Maybe we
> can
> > do better on the communications side if they only have to deal with one
> large
> > order instead of lots of individual ones . . .
> >
> >
> > --jen
> >

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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 01:01:29 -0400
Status: RO

Two days ago I sent e-maile to kci-suwa@wacoal.co.jp.
My order was for the book "Japonism in Fashion" and
"Revolution in Fashion", the video (I already have the book)..
I have yet to receive a response as well. My guess is that there
is probably only one person there who speaks enough English to
respond properly & when that person gets the veritable diluge of messages
they've received from us, he/she will respond...
I mean, there's obviously someone there, right? Sometimes these things take
time..
Deb R.

>  How many people are interested in ordering a copy of the book?  Maybe we can
> do better on the communications side if they only have to deal with one large
> order instead of lots of individual ones . . .
>

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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 01:21:05 -0400
Status: RO


<<<<<<<<<E-mycin, Amoxy, Bactrim and Sulfa (unless I'm
confusing the
last two and forgot what the 4th is) are all out of bounds
for me.   -Judy Mitchell>>>>>>.

That's a nice assortment.  Pretty well covers most of the
major antibiotic families.  For heaven's sake, don't stick
yourself with anything "interesting"!

	Erithromycin-----there's a whole "family" of mycins and
myecins (which are not quite the same thing, I did not
misspell them).
.
      Amoxy -----is amoxicillin, another penicillin,
specifically good for ear infections.  They give it to kids
a lot, and adults for sinus infections and stuff like that.
Seems to work better for some people than others.

	Bactrim ----I don't know much about that one, but it sounds
like Bacitracin or Bactine, the common stuff for cuts, etc.
Read the labels and ask the druggist, it's in a lot of tubes
of over-the-counter meds, like Triple Antiobiotic, etc.

	Sulfa -----baddie.  My daughter had a reaction to this one,
big blisters on her face that took 2 weeks to heal.  They
use it for urinary infections, and you have to drink a LOT
of water to avoid worse bladder problems. One of the kid's
antibiotics is half sulfa and half something else.  I can't
remember the name, guess I better go look that one up and
keep it handy.

	I find it interesting that a lot of people don't get along
with sulfa, yet it is, or was, the basic item in the
military first aid kits.

	Probably was not very interesting to somebody who got hurt,
then had a bad reaction to the sulfa on top of it.

Diane S.



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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 22:22:24 -0700
Status: RO

Just got a note from Kristin Payne who used to be at Boydell and Brewer
publishers.  She has now moved on to David Brown Book Company, and sent
along some information on textile books they carrying.

In addition to Stepping Through Time: a history of shoes from Pre-history to
1800 they carry this one, something that a number of people on this list
have been interested in:


Ancient Danish Textiles from Bogs and Burials
MARGARETHE HALD
This ‘comparative study of costume and Iron Age textiles’ discusses the
often remarkably well preserved textiles and other garments from
prehistoric deposits and burials in Denmark’s numerous mose. Hald examines
in turn textiles and skins from peat bogs; textiles from settlements and
graves; raw materials and spinning; woven fabrics and their construction;
dating prehistoric Danish weaves; looms and fabrics; needle and sewing;
prehistoric costume.
8 74800 312 3, 398p with 465 figs & illus., Hardback (National Museum of
Denmark 1980)
Publishers Price US $70.00
DBBC Price US $56.00

Otheres are:


North European Textiles until AD. 1000
LISE BENDER JORGENSEN
This book is firstly an enormous catalogue of all textile finds from
prehistoric, Roman and medieval contexts in Great Britain, Ireland, the
Netherlands, Germany, Poland and Scandinavia. This data is used to show
that the first steps towards organized textile production in northern
Europe were taken more than 2,500 years ago, and that the industry that was
to centre itself around the English Channel and North Sea coastal areas
played an important part in the rise of the Carolingian Empire and
Anglo-Saxon England. 8 77288 416 9, 285p with 206 figs, maps, photos and
illus., Hardback, (Aarhus UP 1992)
Publishers Price US $59.95
DBBC Price US $47.96

Textiles in European Archaeology
LISE BENDER JORGENSEN
Thirty-three articles by 38 authors on various aspects of archaeological
textiles from the prehistoric, Roman, Migration period, Viking Age,
Medieval and later periods. These papers were given at the 6th triennial
meeting of the North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles held
7th-11th May 1995 in Borås.
9 18595 274 5, 330p, Paperback (GOTARC Series A, Volume 1 Goteborgs
Univeritet)
DBBC Price US $43.50

Archaeological Textiles in Northern Europe
EDITED BY LISE BENDER JORGENSEN AND ELISABETH MUNKSGAARD
The report from the fourth NESAT symposium, held in Denmark in 1990, to
promote the study and publication of textiles from archaeological sites in
northern Europe, contains 26 contributions in English and German. They
include: Neolitische Textilien im Raum Zurich (A Rast-Eicher); Pre-Roman
Iron Age textiles in Europe north of the Alps (L B Jorgensen); Vindolanda
1985-89 (JP Wild); Aspects of the wool textiles from Viking Age Dublin (F
Pritchard); Silk threads on leather objects from the Middle Ages (I R
Pedersen); The wools in some medieval textiles from Bryggen (E Schjolberg);
Experimente am Gewichts-, Rund- und Trittwebstuhl im Mittelalterlicher
Museumsdorf Duppel (A Goldmann); Drying archaeological textiles (E P
Peacock); Quantitative research in ancient textiles and freeze drying (W D
Cooke & E P Peacock).
8 78973 004 6, 237p with figs and illus., Paperback, (Viborg Museum 1992)
DBBC Price US $68.50

Textiles in Northern Archaeology
PENELOPE WALTON
These 25 papers from the third (1987) NESAT symposium at York range from
the Neolithic of Northern Europe and the Swiss lakes to 17th-century
garments in graves at Spitzbergen and in coffins at Roskilde cathedral, by
way of prehistoric to Roman weaving systems in SW Europe, prehistoric dyes,
Anglo-Saxon ‘relic’ boxes, the Maaseik embroideries, Viking age techniques
(spinning, silk and wool headcoverings, women’s dress), Medieval textiles
(in Gdansk, patterned weaves, embroidery) and others. They represent not
only the latest research, but a first rate introduction to the subject. The
volume is dedicated to Elisabeth Crowfoot.
1 87313 205 0, 231p with photos throughout, Paperback, (NESAT/Archetype
1990)
DBBC Price US $30.00

The Roman Textile Industry and its influence
EDITED BY PENELOPE WALTON ROGERS, LISE BENDER JORGENSEN AND ANTOINETTE
RAST-EICHER
Textiles were a hugely important Roman industry yet, because of their
perishable nature, only fragments remain. These twenty-two essays provide a
detailed study of surviving fragments from across the Roman world, from the
dry sands of Egypt to the Atlantic coast and the northern frontiers and
beyond. The result is a comprehensive reconstruction of both everyday and
exotic Roman clothing with information about the influences of fashion and
of Roman weaving techniques. Written by friends and colleagues, the
contributions are offered as a tribute to John Peter Wild whose own studies
of Roman textiles have been the inspiration of so much recent work.
1 84217 046 5, 200p, 4 col pls, illus, Hardback, (Oxbow Books 2001)
Publishers Price US $35.00
DBBC Price US $28.00

Studies in Textile History
EDITED BY VERONIKA GERVERS
This is a diverse collection of 25 essays on ancient textiles presented to
Harold Burnham, former curator of textiles at the Royal Ontario Museum.
Papers include: Icelandic medieval embroidery terms and techniques (Elsa
Gudjonsson); Archaeological and ethnological considerations of the
floor-braced body-tension loom (John Vollmer) and Examples of medieval
tablet-woven bans (Sigrid Muller-Christensen).
0 88854 192 9, 370p, many b/w pls, Hardback, (ROM 1977)
Publishers price US $45.00
DBBC Price US $12.98

Textiles: A Classification of Techniques
ANNEMARIE SEILER-BALDINGER
An illustrated practical guide to the production of threads and fabrics,
weaving and fabric ornamentation and processing which includes ethnographic
and archaeological research from many different cultures. Includes a
substantial bibliography.
1 86333 110 7, 256p, 32 col pls, 300+ b/w figs, Paperback, (Crawford House
1994)
Publishers price US $17.95
DBBC Price US $14.98

Textiles of Late Antiquity
ANNEMARIE STAUFFER
A handbook to a 1996 exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum in New York with
a brief introductory essay and descriptions of 61 exhibited items from
across the Eastern Mediterranean, Asia Minor, Egypt and the Near East.
48p, 30 col pls, b/w illus., Paperback, (Metropolitan Museum 1995)
Publishers price US $8.95
DBBC Price US $3.98

Van Dyck and the Representation of Dress in Seventeenth-Century Portraiture.
E. GORDENKER
This book shows that an understanding of dress can offer a new way of
revealing the associations and ideals that a portrait may have projected,
and that the history of costume provides a unique set of tools with which
to analyse the creativity and contributions of Van Dyck.
2 503 50880 4, 350 p., 100 b/w illus.+16 colour illus., Hardback (Brepols
Publishers 2002)
Publishers Price: $90.00
DBBC Price US $72.00




Wanda

"Never try and apply a Star Trek solution to a Babylon 5 problem!"


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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 01:23:42 -0400
Status: RO

Hey, it's not your fault-don't be embarrased..It's just that now they
have been bombarded with e-mails from all of us here on this list, mostly asking
for that one book. When you wrote them, I'm sure it was probably just you & maybe
one other random person e-mailing them with requests. I saw this happen before on
a button collectors' e-list; everyone decides all at once to order like, one
thing & the folks with the coveted items, in this case the Kyoto, ends up
overwhelmed by a sudden onslaught of demands for merchandise, in this case,
books. But then again, everyone wants what they want, and right now(!), so it's
not likely anyone will wait a while to order..
Deb R.

> Oh boy, I'm feeling really embarrassed now, because it seems no one has heard
> from the Kyoto Costume Institute about the book, even though I had no problems.
> :-(

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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 02:50:50 -0400
Status: RO

You are so right, the silk at this site is absolutely
beautiful and I'm sure it's worth it every cent.
Ye Gods, I wish I had a suitcase full of $20s!
*Sob.*
.........
Deb R.

Love the grapevine embroidery on this page:
http://www.hansson-silks.co.uk/plainembroideries.html

...and the tissue embroidery here...
http://www.hansson-silks.co.uk/tissueembroideries.html


>  There is a superb silk shop in Guildford, Surrey. It is Hansson Silks.

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Austrian/German holiday: suggestions?
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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 08:12:32 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- leigh tartaglio <mikes@dandy.net> wrote: > Hi. Sorry, I wasn't meaning to
say that Aachen wasn't anything other than
> beautiful, just recounting what I found when I was there long ago, but quite
> a few
> years after the war. 

You are talking about the 1970s I presume.

I also got a nasty surprise that
> day
> when I was stopped by the Grenschutzpolizei while perusing a Red Brigades/
> Bader
> Meinhoff Gang poster.

You did something apparently foolish in the 1970s. A) there are NO borders
anymore because you are talking about continental Europe. Aachen used to be at
the border to two countries. Holland and Belgium, it still is, but one just
hops to and fro nowadays. I don't know if you realise this, but terrorism was
very bad in the 70s by the RAF, the Bader Meinhoff gang, just like terrorism
was very bad for the UK with teh IRA, I think in the 80s. Well, guess it seems
as if terrorism had shifted now away from Europe. Terrorism is horrendeous, but
we here grew up with it. That doesn't make it any better (gods, no!) but is
just one of thse things. I live between the Royal Engineers and the Gurka
barracks, there are no litterbins anywhere, and still we get the occasional
bomb threat. Oh well, we just gather all with the pets in the nearest safe pub
and wait and see and hope our houses won't explode. I know that sounds off
hand, but there you are, not much can phaze the British I guess. (and the
bloody foreigners living there *laughs*)

Up until that time, I had never had a fully automatic
> loaded
> and cocked weapon pointed at me. 

As I said, it was 1970s and in the height of RAF terrorism. It was terrible,
though I was a kid I do remmeber and I also remeber the satisfaction with which
faces were crossed out on the terrorist posters, when they finally got the
killers.

It made me realize that I had taken my
> American
> freedoms for granted 

EXCUSE ME?! Could you explain what that means, American freedoms? I very much
disagree, what do you think is going on nowadays in America with the terrorism
scare, don't you think the same could happen to you over where you live, when
the fears are high? That doesn't have anything to do with not having freedom.
We never did not have freedom at home. 

(which I never have again, and is even more meaningful
> in
> these latter days). I'm glad to know that things improved since then. I have

It is not about improving, it is about terrorism having died down in germany
and because England was talking to the IRA finally, it has died down here too,
but it still is a threat. Take Spain and the Basks for example.

Sorry, you just hit anerve here, I am a very proud and very happy European and
wouldn't want to be anything else. Very proud indeed.
Better back to costume content.

> believe that the Cathedral at Aachen has some lovely textiles from
> Charlemagne's
> time onward on display, as well as some furniture and jewelry. 

As I said, the treasury has a lovely rotating display, some of the garments are
BEAUTIFUL! You are going to drool about te beading and stones and embroidery...

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Books from David Brown Book Company
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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 10:03:27 -0400
Status: RO

Wanda,

        First, let me say you can truly be an evil woman!  I don't possibly
have enough Birthdays and Anniversaries/Christmases to get all of these that
I now want.  (thanks, btw- a lot of these are in specific areas I was
interested in going next.)
        Second, I love your signature line.;-D
Moira
a fan of B-5, most Star Trek series', Earth Final Conflict, Quantum Leap,
old Twilight Zone, etc. (gotta corrupt the kids somehow, right?)



In addition to Stepping Through Time: a history of shoes from Pre-history to
1800 they carry this one, something that a number of people on this list
have been interested in:


Wanda

"Never try and apply a Star Trek solution to a Babylon 5 problem!"



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From: "Cynthia Abel" <brujne@bluejay.creighton.edu>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kyoto Costume Institute
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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 09:27:02 -0500
Status: RO

At least the price hasn't gone up, even though the cover might have
changed(or is the cover on the website actually the box for the video?). I
bought mine a good five years ago and paid about $45 for it. But my
bookstore(whose employee went the extra mile in return for a peek at the
book)found a stateside source. This book is just priceless!!

BTW, does anyone on the list know a rough conversion from Yen to US$ and if
the video works in US VCR's In Japanese or English, to view some of what's
in the book on video--for us that have frame advance or slow mo features on
our VCRs--to get to view the actual costumes in possibly more than one view.
Yum, Yum!

Cindy Abel
ILL Coordinator
Health Sciences Library
Creighton University
2500 California Plaza
Omaha NE 68178-0210
Phone: 402. 280-5144
Fax:     402.280-5134


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From: "Mary Temple" <noxcat@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Books from David Brown Book Company
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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 14:36:42 +0000
Status: RO

Do they have a website one can order from?

Mary/Katerine

>Just got a note from Kristin Payne who used to be at Boydell and Brewer
>publishers.  She has now moved on to David Brown Book Company, and sent
>along some information on textile books they carrying.
>
>In addition to Stepping Through Time: a history of shoes from Pre-history 
>to
>1800 they carry this one, something that a number of people on this list
>have been interested in:
>
>
>Ancient Danish Textiles from Bogs and Burials
>MARGARETHE HALD
>This ‘comparative study of costume and Iron Age textiles’ discusses the
>often remarkably well preserved textiles and other garments from
>prehistoric deposits and burials in Denmark’s numerous mose. Hald examines
>in turn textiles and skins from peat bogs; textiles from settlements and
>graves; raw materials and spinning; woven fabrics and their construction;
>dating prehistoric Danish weaves; looms and fabrics; needle and sewing;
>prehistoric costume.
>8 74800 312 3, 398p with 465 figs & illus., Hardback (National Museum of
>Denmark 1980)
>Publishers Price US $70.00
>DBBC Price US $56.00
>
>Otheres are:
>
>
>North European Textiles until AD. 1000
>LISE BENDER JORGENSEN
>This book is firstly an enormous catalogue of all textile finds from
>prehistoric, Roman and medieval contexts in Great Britain, Ireland, the
>Netherlands, Germany, Poland and Scandinavia. This data is used to show
>that the first steps towards organized textile production in northern
>Europe were taken more than 2,500 years ago, and that the industry that was
>to centre itself around the English Channel and North Sea coastal areas
>played an important part in the rise of the Carolingian Empire and
>Anglo-Saxon England. 8 77288 416 9, 285p with 206 figs, maps, photos and
>illus., Hardback, (Aarhus UP 1992)
>Publishers Price US $59.95
>DBBC Price US $47.96
>
>Textiles in European Archaeology
>LISE BENDER JORGENSEN
>Thirty-three articles by 38 authors on various aspects of archaeological
>textiles from the prehistoric, Roman, Migration period, Viking Age,
>Medieval and later periods. These papers were given at the 6th triennial
>meeting of the North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles held
>7th-11th May 1995 in Borås.
>9 18595 274 5, 330p, Paperback (GOTARC Series A, Volume 1 Goteborgs
>Univeritet)
>DBBC Price US $43.50
>
>Archaeological Textiles in Northern Europe
>EDITED BY LISE BENDER JORGENSEN AND ELISABETH MUNKSGAARD
>The report from the fourth NESAT symposium, held in Denmark in 1990, to
>promote the study and publication of textiles from archaeological sites in
>northern Europe, contains 26 contributions in English and German. They
>include: Neolitische Textilien im Raum Zurich (A Rast-Eicher); Pre-Roman
>Iron Age textiles in Europe north of the Alps (L B Jorgensen); Vindolanda
>1985-89 (JP Wild); Aspects of the wool textiles from Viking Age Dublin (F
>Pritchard); Silk threads on leather objects from the Middle Ages (I R
>Pedersen); The wools in some medieval textiles from Bryggen (E Schjolberg);
>Experimente am Gewichts-, Rund- und Trittwebstuhl im Mittelalterlicher
>Museumsdorf Duppel (A Goldmann); Drying archaeological textiles (E P
>Peacock); Quantitative research in ancient textiles and freeze drying (W D
>Cooke & E P Peacock).
>8 78973 004 6, 237p with figs and illus., Paperback, (Viborg Museum 1992)
>DBBC Price US $68.50
>
>Textiles in Northern Archaeology
>PENELOPE WALTON
>These 25 papers from the third (1987) NESAT symposium at York range from
>the Neolithic of Northern Europe and the Swiss lakes to 17th-century
>garments in graves at Spitzbergen and in coffins at Roskilde cathedral, by
>way of prehistoric to Roman weaving systems in SW Europe, prehistoric dyes,
>Anglo-Saxon ‘relic’ boxes, the Maaseik embroideries, Viking age techniques
>(spinning, silk and wool headcoverings, women’s dress), Medieval textiles
>(in Gdansk, patterned weaves, embroidery) and others. They represent not
>only the latest research, but a first rate introduction to the subject. The
>volume is dedicated to Elisabeth Crowfoot.
>1 87313 205 0, 231p with photos throughout, Paperback, (NESAT/Archetype
>1990)
>DBBC Price US $30.00
>
>The Roman Textile Industry and its influence
>EDITED BY PENELOPE WALTON ROGERS, LISE BENDER JORGENSEN AND ANTOINETTE
>RAST-EICHER
>Textiles were a hugely important Roman industry yet, because of their
>perishable nature, only fragments remain. These twenty-two essays provide a
>detailed study of surviving fragments from across the Roman world, from the
>dry sands of Egypt to the Atlantic coast and the northern frontiers and
>beyond. The result is a comprehensive reconstruction of both everyday and
>exotic Roman clothing with information about the influences of fashion and
>of Roman weaving techniques. Written by friends and colleagues, the
>contributions are offered as a tribute to John Peter Wild whose own studies
>of Roman textiles have been the inspiration of so much recent work.
>1 84217 046 5, 200p, 4 col pls, illus, Hardback, (Oxbow Books 2001)
>Publishers Price US $35.00
>DBBC Price US $28.00
>
>Studies in Textile History
>EDITED BY VERONIKA GERVERS
>This is a diverse collection of 25 essays on ancient textiles presented to
>Harold Burnham, former curator of textiles at the Royal Ontario Museum.
>Papers include: Icelandic medieval embroidery terms and techniques (Elsa
>Gudjonsson); Archaeological and ethnological considerations of the
>floor-braced body-tension loom (John Vollmer) and Examples of medieval
>tablet-woven bans (Sigrid Muller-Christensen).
>0 88854 192 9, 370p, many b/w pls, Hardback, (ROM 1977)
>Publishers price US $45.00
>DBBC Price US $12.98
>
>Textiles: A Classification of Techniques
>ANNEMARIE SEILER-BALDINGER
>An illustrated practical guide to the production of threads and fabrics,
>weaving and fabric ornamentation and processing which includes ethnographic
>and archaeological research from many different cultures. Includes a
>substantial bibliography.
>1 86333 110 7, 256p, 32 col pls, 300+ b/w figs, Paperback, (Crawford House
>1994)
>Publishers price US $17.95
>DBBC Price US $14.98
>
>Textiles of Late Antiquity
>ANNEMARIE STAUFFER
>A handbook to a 1996 exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum in New York with
>a brief introductory essay and descriptions of 61 exhibited items from
>across the Eastern Mediterranean, Asia Minor, Egypt and the Near East.
>48p, 30 col pls, b/w illus., Paperback, (Metropolitan Museum 1995)
>Publishers price US $8.95
>DBBC Price US $3.98
>
>Van Dyck and the Representation of Dress in Seventeenth-Century 
>Portraiture.
>E. GORDENKER
>This book shows that an understanding of dress can offer a new way of
>revealing the associations and ideals that a portrait may have projected,
>and that the history of costume provides a unique set of tools with which
>to analyse the creativity and contributions of Van Dyck.
>2 503 50880 4, 350 p., 100 b/w illus.+16 colour illus., Hardback (Brepols
>Publishers 2002)
>Publishers Price: $90.00
>DBBC Price US $72.00
>
>
>
>
>Wanda
>
>"Never try and apply a Star Trek solution to a Babylon 5 problem!"
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume




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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric Prices
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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 15:35:07 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:

>  watched with equanimity as a table of wonderful 100% linens, as
> low as $3/yard, has slowly disappeared. I restricted myself to
> just 10 yards of red, 6 of blue, about 8 of white. (Hmm, now it
> doesn't sound that restricted, does it? 

I'm trying to decide exactly what I'm going to make with the 10 
metres of diamond and trellis patterned linen damask I bought at 
the weekend (it's white so I can shove finished garments in the 
machine and dye them whatever colour I want - Yay!).  I couldn't 
resist it.  It's too heavy for shirts/smocks but not so heavy that it 
wouldn't need interlining with somthing with a little more body to 
make smooth fitting bodices and doublets.

The  diamonds are about 2.5 inches high from point to point and 
the trellis around them about 3 inches and it just looked so 
sumptuos that I couldn't resist the chance to get a linen (oh so cool 
and comfy to wear in hot weather despite Robin's teasing about not 
needing it in England...<g>) that doesn't look like a linen.

I figure that I could make a couple of pair of 15th century hose from 
it and still have 8 metres or more left to make a big houpellande or 
sevelar smaller garments from... but can't decide what (and will 
probably not get around to makeing them for ages anyway <G>

> Add me to the list of those who buy less and better. I have been
> slowly getting rid of the stash of "finds" I stocked up in my
> youth, when I had less discriminating tastes (and was still using
> cotton). Now I buy only linen, silk, and wool for costume use. 

I no longer get as tempted by fabrics for "fantasy" or SF costumes 
as I used to.  Most of my historicals can edouble up as Fantasy 
ones anyway (so many fantsasty books, films, gaming sustems 
have pseudo-historical settings) that I prefer to emphasise the 
suitability for historical and use the costumes for both than to go for 
something only really suitable for fantasy and SF event use.
 
Now, if only I could get around to using the various patterned 
(mostly checks and tartans) wools I've obtained over the years, my 
stash would be considerably reduced in bulk and I would have 
some justification for having bought so many patterned wools 
(rather than never having used *any* of them)... <stops and 
rethinks>....  except for one pair of very basic drawstring trous and 
a matching teddy-bear from the offcuts.



Teddy
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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 10:46:11 -0400
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silly question -- ya'll have been talking about this Costume College in
Calif.  But when is it?
Kate

> I've made up a list of the folks who will be at Costume College. If
> others are interested, email me privately and I'll send it to you in
> .txt (plain text) format.
>
> I'd like to meet some of yall, and I thought the idea of adding a red
> "H" to our tags is as good an identified as any. Is that what I should
> look for, and put on my tag?
>
> Allison

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silly question -- ya'll have been talking about this Costume College in
Calif.&nbsp; But <i><u>when</u></i> is it?
<br>Kate
<blockquote TYPE=CITE><font size=-1>I've made up a list of the folks who
will be at Costume College. If others are interested, email me privately
and I'll send it to you in .txt (plain text) format.</font>
<p><font size=-1>I'd like to meet some of yall, and I thought the idea
of adding a red "H" to our tags is as good an identified as any. Is that
what I should look for, and put on my tag?</font>
<p><font size=-1>Allison</font></blockquote>
</html>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: different velvets
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> (Just been visiting the suggested Silk sites, and drooling over the
> keyboard. But as yet it would not be a good idea for me to take
> scissors to fabric of that sort of quality and price).

Hi Jane,

Ask Gillian to tell you the address of the silk place near Dartford 
where we bought the fabric for Kethry's yellow and purple 
renaissance outfit the other year.... 

They don't have much in the way of heavy silks (no velvets) or 
period patterns but the plain-dyed colours of shirt-weight and 
slightly heavier silks are a reasonable price, especailly if you want 
to do something special for Court wear.



Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: different velvets
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> How far back does velvet go, anyway?

Not far enough for T-tunics to be made of it....<laugh>




Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: different velvets
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> 12th and 13th Century Velvet:
> http://www.geocities.com/Area51/Lair/5459/bliaut3.html
> includes the comment "Fragments of twill and cotton velvet have been
> found dating back to 9th century France". I wonder what they used it
> for back then? T-tunics?

Perhaps I spoke too soon.... or perhaps it was only a furnishing 
fabric then?


Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: different velvets
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> For the 16th C as well (although the pieces that the V&A had from
> that time period looked more like upholstery weight then clothing
> weight.) 
> 
> The first velvets show up in the 12th century but initially they
> were only used by the church in vestments, altar cloths and the
> like. Use for non-church clothing came a bit later. 

Don't they have a (13th century I think) embroidered red velvet cope 
on display that was cut up and made into another garment (tunicle 
or dalamtic?) later, then was pieced back together into a cope?

To me it looked just like the worn red velvet of the seats you used 
to get in old cinemas... well the bits not covered in embroidery did 
anyway.


Teddy
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Status: RO


> Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote
> >Is that *with* an iron afterbath, or *without?*
> >--sue, completely enamored of tansy-dyed wool.....
> 
> I think the best glow comes from the plutonium afterbath :-)  (sorry,
> I'm not the dyer, I have absolutely no idea!)

Having seen the sickly colours produced on wool from tansy dying 
this weekend, I have to say I don't care what was used.... The 
colours reminded me of bile with a fluorescent tinge.....<shudder>

As I described that range of colours a few years ago - "the sort of 
green that narrowly misses being a particularly noxious shade of 
yellow and would probably have been better if it hadn't"



Teddy
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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 16:08:24 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote
> >Is that *with* an iron afterbath, or *without?*
> >--sue, completely enamored of tansy-dyed wool.....
> 
> I think the best glow comes from the plutonium afterbath :-)  (sorry,
> I'm not the dyer, I have absolutely no idea!)

Having seen the sickly colours produced on wool from tansy dying 
this weekend, I have to say I don't care what was used.... The 
colours reminded me of bile with a fluorescent tinge.....<shudder>

As I described that range of colours a few years ago - "the sort of 
green that narrowly misses being a particularly noxious shade of 
yellow and would probably have been better if it hadn't"



Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: fabric stores, was: different velvets
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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 11:21:32 -0400
Status: RO

A tiny town called Allentown, just off exit 7a of the turnpike, between
exits 7 & 8 of 195 so I can be on the turnpike in less than 5 minutes
(or 130 or 206 or on my way to 95 in no time).  Getting to Edison for
Little India is actually the worst traffic 'cause it's route1.
Kate

Linda Krecker-Schkred wrote:

> Really... That should put you in central New Jersey.
>
> So, where exactly are you. I'm in Whippany and the Garment district
> (seems at least) is a second home.
>
> Linda K-S
>
> At 5:03 PM -0400 7/15/02, Kate Pinner wrote:
> >I'm beginning to feel lucky...New York's an hour (depending on
> >traffic - though I
> >usually take the train) north and Philadelphia is a hour south.
> >I've got Little
> >India about 45 minutes away and an okay Jo-Ann's and Rag Shop close
> >by plus one
> >independent who seems to get fabric castoffs from New York in
> >addition to other
> >stuff.
> >
> >Kate
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: kj green <macailith@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume College - final tally
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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 09:36:32 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

It's this coming weekend. A friend of mine is
going--wish I could...*sigh*

kate


--- Kate Pinner <pinner@mccc.edu> wrote:
> silly question -- ya'll have been talking about this
> Costume College in
> Calif.  But when is it?
> Kate
> 
> > I've made up a list of the folks who will be at
> Costume College. If
> > others are interested, email me privately and I'll
> send it to you in
> > .txt (plain text) format.
> >
> > I'd like to meet some of yall, and I thought the
> idea of adding a red
> > "H" to our tags is as good an identified as any.
> Is that what I should
> > look for, and put on my tag?
> >
> > Allison
> 


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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 10:14:41 -0700
Status: RO


> The first stage penicillin reaction is the fine rash, I had
> it too.
> But that's just the sensitivity stage.
> 
>  Next time, watch out.  You may very well have an
> anaphylactic reaction----hives, swelling---including major
> swelling shut of the airway!----and extremely irregular
> heart beat.
>  In other words, you can be dead in 5 or 10 minutes, and it
> won't be fun.

This is not always true. While sometimes this can be the first sign 
that you may have an allergy, it may be some other cause. 
Especially in children and teens, it may be an interaction between 
the antibiotic and the virus (which has *nothing* to do with an 
allergic reaction. Amoxicillin or ampicillin and mononucleosis is a 
very good example, but some cold and stomach "flu" viruses can 
do the same things, such as the echo viruses.) It could be a simple 
viral rash as well (which many of the cold viruses and stomach "flu" 
viruses can do extremely well even without an antibiotic any where 
near.) It's one of the reasons I don't like prescribing antibiotics 
when someone has had a cold for less than 10 days (no matter 
how much the patient or parent begs). We'd get a *lot* less 
"antibiotic allergies" that way!

But then, it's well known that most doctors prescribe *way* too 
many antibiotics for the wrong reasons (faster than talking the 
patient/parent out of it and major pressure from parents/patients.) 

At least since the early 70's we doctors have been told that giving 
antibiotics can cause major shifts in the antibiotic resistance in 
communities. In the early 80s we saw that as a major problem with 
the hemophilus influenza bacteria (aka "H-flu", which HIB prevents) 
and in the last 5 years with streptococcus pneumonia (the 
"pneumococcus", which we also have a vaccine to combat.) We 
don't even need to talk about multiresistant staphylococcus 
("staph" now getting MRSC although that is mostly a problem in 
hospitals and with patients who have major things going on like 
needing special catheters, trachs, surgically implanted feeding 
tubes, etc.)

OK, I'll get down off my soapbox now.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: different velvets
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 <Pine.LNX.4.10.10207141630530.3153-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 23:03:16 +0100
Status: RO

Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote
>
>On Sun, 14 Jul 2002, Jean Waddie wrote:
>
>> The idea of needing to cater to the home sewer - well, I don't think
>> any of the marketing bods in general retail would even recognise the
>> existence of home sewing in this country.
>
>I think you hit an important difference there between the UK and the US. I
>have a sense that sewing is not as typical an occupation for the British
>as it is for us.
>
>For example, in the States, when I was in school at least, girls had many
>chances to learn to sew, and you'd be more surprised to find a girl who
>didn't have at least some basic sewing experience than one who did. We
>could take "home economics" or sewing classes in school. (Boys were more
>likely to take "shop" classes that included woodworking and similar
>skills. Today I gather that the names of the classes are less
>gender-oriented, and students are welcome to take whichever they want, but
>I suspect some noticeable gender division remains in class makeup.) I
>didn't take sewing in school because I'd learned in Girl Scouts, another
>typical option. Some of my friends learned from their mothers,
>grandmothers, or sisters. It's common to have a sewing machine in one's
>home -- even my mother, who doesn't sew, had (and still has) a machine for
>mending. Also, crafts such as quilting, which require some sewing
>equipment and knowledge, are extremely popular.
>
>Am I correct in my impression that this is not the state in Britain? If
>sewing is considered a specialty skill or hobby, fabric stores would be
>considered specialty stores. That's the niche that leather or woodworking
>stores occupy here -- that is, those are crafts that require specific
>materials, but you're very lucky if you have a suitable supplier in town,
>and you'd expect to find them in out-of-the-way places.
>
>I suspect that if it wasn't for the huge popularity of quilting and
>similar crafts here, sewing stores would be far less common and accessible
>than they are today.
>
>--Robin
Robin,

I'm sure other people around here know, but I don't have much idea how 
long it is since you were in school.  I'm 33.  My mother taught 
needlework, and in the schools she was in, all the girls (they were 
single-sex schools) did at least one or two years.  We also had 
needlework at school, and I remember making a fluffy rabbit at Brownies, 
but somehow it doesn't go on in this country.  It's one of those things 
they make you do at school but nobody ever does it at home.  It's just 
cultural, I'm not sure why.

I agree, dressmaking nowadays is considered a minority hobby, rather 
than an essential - patchwork and home decorating are on the up, so 
those shops are more common.

I just can't imagine how people survive without sewing - any useful 
thingy I need, I do it with fabric.  I know other people whose skills 
are elsewhere - carpentry or metalwork, and they would make something 
for the same purpose in their own way - I make a bag, they make a box. 
But sewing takes less cleaning up after!

Jean

-- 
Jean Waddie
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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 11:21:33 -0700
Status: RO

Teddy wrote:
> The  diamonds are about 2.5 inches high from point to point and 
> the trellis around them about 3 inches and it just looked so 
> sumptuos that I couldn't resist the chance to get a linen (oh so cool
> and comfy to wear in hot weather despite Robin's teasing about not
> needing it in England...<g>) that doesn't look like a linen.

She obviously wasn't there when I was there. It wasn't the day we 
went to Hampton Court with you, but a couple of the other days 
were in the upper 80s (I don't remember what that was in 
centigrade as I translated it into fahrenheit so that I could figure out 
why I was so miserable.) It was very muggy and hot, but it was a 
complete surprise to the residents as well as us "furiners" since it 
was only late April or early May. I hadn't really brought clothes for 
hot weather so I ended up wearing a skirt rather than my long 
pants. (It was a very short skirt and my research assistant kept 
complaining about how the guys were ogling me on the 
Underground. Not bad for someone in their 40's. Of course, that 
was before I gained 30#!)


Kat 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: different velvets
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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 11:21:34 -0700
Status: RO

 
> > 12th and 13th Century Velvet:
> > http://www.geocities.com/Area51/Lair/5459/bliaut3.html
> > includes the comment "Fragments of twill and cotton velvet have been
> > found dating back to 9th century France". I wonder what they used it
> > for back then? T-tunics?
> 
> Perhaps I spoke too soon.... or perhaps it was only a furnishing
> fabric then?

I found that quote to mean something different than what the writer 
meant. She was referring to fustian but it seems like she was 
mixing up fustian (which has a nap raised, not by loops but by the 
same method that we sometimes use for flannel) with velvets. I 
wish she had footnoted it a bit, because I've looked through the 
books she mentions to find the information she put in, but I can't 
find it. Also, the looped Egyptian ones she mentions sound more 
like the looped fabric of cotton which we use for towels. (Turkish 
towels or terrycloth, for instance.) However, this is not really a 
"velvet" imitation although it may be a related technique. The 
problem may be with the word meaning in the time compared to 
the current word meaning. There were a lot of changes so you can't 
look up the definition in a modern textile dictionary and be sure that 
it meant the same thing then.

I think that the fragments mentioned were more likely to be 
household goods than clothing in this case.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 11:21:33 -0700
Status: RO


>  Erithromycin-----there's a whole "family" of mycins and
> myecins (which are not quite the same thing, I did not
> misspell them).

Erythromycin is the correct spelling but the mycin/myecin is 
correct.

>  Bactrim ----I don't know much about that one, but it sounds
> like Bacitracin or Bactine, the common stuff for cuts, etc.

It has nothing to do with either of those. It is trimethoprim-
sulfamethoxazole (and sometimes goes under the name of Septra).

>  Sulfa -----baddie.  My daughter had a reaction to this one,
> big blisters on her face that took 2 weeks to heal.  They
> use it for urinary infections, and you have to drink a LOT
> of water to avoid worse bladder problems. One of the kid's
> antibiotics is half sulfa and half something else. 

That would be Septra or Bactrim (which are just brand names for 
the same thing.)

>  I find it interesting that a lot of people don't get along
> with sulfa, yet it is, or was, the basic item in the
> military first aid kits.

That's because it was one of the only 2 antibiotics which were 
invented early on (with penicillin and streptomycin the other two.) It 
is more stable than penicillin or streptomycin and definitely less 
expensive than streptomycin. However, it doesn't touch strep or 
staph, which are common wound contaminants. It may get 
tetanus, however. (I don't remember what hits that since we don't 
see it much anymore except in immigrants and old people.)

I think the military uses more Velocef now. I know they use it a lot 
in their VA clinics, although it is rare for doctors to prescribe in the 
"real world" because it's not particularly good. (It's probably 
cheaper.)

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 11:21:34 -0700
Status: RO


> Don't they have a (13th century I think) embroidered red velvet cope
> on display that was cut up and made into another garment (tunicle or
> dalamtic?) later, then was pieced back together into a cope?

Are you thinking of the red cloak on display in the costume area at 
the V&A which used to be a skirt? It is heavily embroidered. But 
it's 16/17th C and in pretty good shape.

It would not be unusual, however, for the ecclesiastic copes to be 
used to make other ecclesiastic garments (such as dalmatics or 
the like.)
 
> To me it looked just like the worn red velvet of the seats you used to
> get in old cinemas... well the bits not covered in embroidery did
> anyway.

That does sound more like a cope, but I don't remember a red cope 
at the V&A. (I'll have to look through my pictures as I got shots of 
everyone of the copes on display, the the dismay of my research 
assistant.)


Kat 

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Subject: [h-cost]  Sewing, England vs US, was: Re: different velvets
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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 11:30:39 -0700
Status: RO

Jean wrote about England:
> I'm sure other people around here know, but I don't have much idea how
> long it is since you were in school.  I'm 33.  My mother taught
> needlework, and in the schools she was in, all the girls (they were
> single-sex schools) did at least one or two years.  We also had
> needlework at school, and I remember making a fluffy rabbit at
> Brownies, but somehow it doesn't go on in this country.  It's one of
> those things they make you do at school but nobody ever does it at
> home.  It's just cultural, I'm not sure why.
> 
> I agree, dressmaking nowadays is considered a minority hobby, rather
> than an essential - patchwork and home decorating are on the up, so
> those shops are more common.

The US is heading in this direction. I think that's why we are losing 
so many of our good fabric stores. They are either going home 
deco, quilting (which I think is what you mean by patchwork) or 
high scale tailoring. That doesn't leave much for the recreational, 
historical or cheap home sewer.

Part of it is that people used to make clothes at home to save 
money. Now it is cheaper to buy readymade than to make it at 
home. So, why bother to do it (except for people like us who live for 
sewing!)
 
> I just can't imagine how people survive without sewing - any useful
> thingy I need, I do it with fabric.  I know other people whose skills
> are elsewhere - carpentry or metalwork, and they would make something
> for the same purpose in their own way - I make a bag, they make a box.
> But sewing takes less cleaning up after!

Exactly!


Kat 

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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 15:48:56 -0400
Status: RO

> This is not always true. While sometimes this can be the first sign 
> that you may have an allergy, it may be some other cause. 
> Especially in children and teens, it may be an interaction between 
> the antibiotic and the virus (which has *nothing* to do with an 
> allergic reaction. Amoxicillin or ampicillin and mononucleosis is a 
> very good example, but some cold and stomach "flu" viruses can 
> do the same things, such as the echo viruses.) It could be a simple 
> viral rash as well (which many of the cold viruses and stomach "flu" 
> viruses can do extremely well even without an antibiotic any where 
> near.) It's one of the reasons I don't like prescribing antibiotics 
> when someone has had a cold for less than 10 days (no matter 
> how much the patient or parent begs). We'd get a *lot* less 
> "antibiotic allergies" that way!

I had never had a reaction to any -cillin drug before 3 years ago and 
it was only prescribed as a precaution against infection after my oral 
surgery (yeah, I guess that kind of means it's a little over-prescribed 
if they give it to you when you're not sick, but just in case).  Within 
a few days I got the fine rash and was told to stop taking it ASAP.  I 
wasn't sick at the time, there was really no reason for me to be on 
penicillin in the first place and I was properly caring for my suture 
sites so there wasn't much of a risk that I'd develop an infection to 
begin with.  Like I said before, I have an iron constitution and I 
don't tend to aquire viruses (viruii?) and other communal bugs the way 
most people do, so the -cillin allergy isn't a big deal for me.  
Personally, I'm just as happy not to have to take one more 
overprescribed antibiotic.  Which is not to say that I don't agree with 
antibiotics, just that I question the fact that they are so readily 
available and so easy to come by. 

> But then, it's well known that most doctors prescribe *way* too 
> many antibiotics for the wrong reasons (faster than talking the 
> patient/parent out of it and major pressure from parents/patients.) 

Or for "just in case" reasons.  At one point I had 3 full bottles of 
vicodin sitting in my cupboard because two seperate doctors (my oral 
surgeon and my physician) felt that it was better if they gave me 
enough painkillers to render a horse unconscious than risk a 
potentially unhappy patient.  Doesn't matter that vicodin makes me sick 
and I'm just as happy and more conscious on Advil... I flushed all 
three bottles down the toilet, but it just made me shudder that if it 
was *this* easy to come by, no wonder there are people out there who 
are addicted to the stuff!  And don't get me started on the time I 
walked into the hospital and mentioned casually to the NP that I was 
feeling a little "down" and was handed a prescription for Prozac and 
Zoloft!!!

> At least since the early 70's we doctors have been told that giving 
> antibiotics can cause major shifts in the antibiotic resistance in 
> communities. In the early 80s we saw that as a major problem with 
> the hemophilus influenza bacteria (aka "H-flu", which HIB prevents) 
> and in the last 5 years with streptococcus pneumonia (the 
> "pneumococcus", which we also have a vaccine to combat.) We 
> don't even need to talk about multiresistant staphylococcus 
> ("staph" now getting MRSC although that is mostly a problem in 
> hospitals and with patients who have major things going on like 
> needing special catheters, trachs, surgically implanted feeding 
> tubes, etc.)

Exactly my feelings.  For me, it's no biggie to forego the antibiotics 
because I'm not prone to serious illness (a cold here and there, but 
nothing major).  Others are different, and should act accordingly, but 
popping Cipro out of paranoia is just plain stupid.  It's the fastest 
way to creating a new strain of something more resistant to treatment 
than pretty much anything else.  That, and failing to complete 
medication doses...

> 
> OK, I'll get down off my soapbox now.

Oops... Looks like I was taking up my share of the 'ol box, myself. 
Next?  ;)

Sarah
http://www.elizabethanlady.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Books from David Brown Book Company
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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 12:17:54 -0700
Status: RO


>Just got a note from Kristin Payne who used to be at Boydell and Brewer
>publishers.  She has now moved on to David Brown Book Company, and sent
>along some information on textile books they carrying.
>
>In addition to Stepping Through Time: a history of shoes from Pre-history to
>1800 they carry this one, something that a number of people on this list
>have been interested in:

I can't help but notice that their price is less than the publisher's 
price.  So how can we get these books directly from them?

Kayta

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Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Sewing, England vs US, was: Re: different velvets
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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 13:12:34 -0700
Status: RO


>The US is heading in this direction. I think that's why we are losing
>so many of our good fabric stores. They are either going home
>deco, quilting (which I think is what you mean by patchwork) or
>high scale tailoring. That doesn't leave much for the recreational,
>historical or cheap home sewer.

Most sewing stores in the US have re-made half their fabric space into 
craft space.  And most of the craft stuff they stock is junky stuff, or 
no-talent kits.  The quality of the fabric has gone down too.  If Jo-Ann's 
and Walmart ever routinely had good fabric, they don't now except by 
accident.  Everywhere else is a factory outlet or mill outlet store, a 
remnants-only store, a high-end place like Britex, or a quilt fabric store.

>Part of it is that people used to make clothes at home to save
>money. Now it is cheaper to buy readymade than to make it at
>home. So, why bother to do it (except for people like us who live for
>sewing!)

The cheap imported clothing from the Far East has largely made sewing 
skills redundant.  My daughter who is into fashion can't be bothered to do 
her own mending, and bribes me to do it instead of letting her 
sewing-challenged father attempt it.  My daughter who is into costumes, and 
dolls, is learning to sew, embroider, and crochet.

> > I just can't imagine how people survive without sewing - any useful
> > thingy I need, I do it with fabric.  I know other people whose skills
> > are elsewhere - carpentry or metalwork, and they would make something
> > for the same purpose in their own way - I make a bag, they make a box.
> > But sewing takes less cleaning up after!

Quilt-making is much more popular than it was 20 years ago.  Other 
sewing-related crafts are too.  The American Girl Doll company sells a line 
of historical doll clothes patterns (www.americangirl.com).  Major pattern 
companies are selling historically usable costume patterns, and there are 
many little historical costume pattern companies springing up, like Margo's.


Kayta

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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 16:18:12 -0400
Status: RO

>BTW, does anyone on the list know a rough conversion
from Yen to US$?

Yes, I do Cynthia.
The Yen-dollar exchange rate:
1,500.00 JPY = 12.9420 USD,
according to XE.com: Universal Currency Converter
http://www.xe.com/ucc/convert.cgi

 I finally heard from Kyoto today (yay) but alas, they are out of the
Rev in Fashion video which I wanted pretty badly :-(( Oh well.
But I am still ordering the book & video for "Japonism in Fashion",
both of which are in Japanese unfortunately, but what can ya do?
I thought the site said that the videos are in VHS format..
Deb R.



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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 16:51:59 -0400
Status: RO

You guys are getting me worried now...Here's my issue:
If I take Ampicillin for 2 or more days, I always experience awful
stomach cramps & *ahem*- other gastro-intestinal problems..
This is a reaction right? Not an allergy?
Also, until 2 years ago, I had never had problems using topical
anti-biotic ointments (Bacitracin, Neosporin, Polysporin, etc.),
but now, for some reason Polysporin causes my skin to turn bright red
& painful but only the area it's been applied to...
Could this mean I'm becoming allergic to spore-based antibiotics?
Deb R.

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From: "Sarah Lorraine" <sarah@elizabethanlady.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT Allergies vs Reactions
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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 17:08:36 -0400
Status: RO

I don't think stomach cramping is an allergic reaction, per se.  If you 
read the literature that comes with the bottle of meds, it usually 
lists nausea and stomach problems as a side effect of the medication.  
Lots of meds have this problem, so it's pretty common.  If it's 
unbearable and doesn't let up if you take the meds with food and/or 
milk, you should probably consult with your doctor.  If you're having 
trouble keeping food down while you're taking the stuff or having 
(pardon me) bloody stools or something that extreme, definately take 
yourself to the emergency room.  As for the ointments, I don't know 
much about that...  I would say that if you're breaking out in a rash 
when you apply something to your skin, you're probably allergic to some 
compound in the ointment, but it may not be the antibacterial portion.  
Could be an alergy to aloe, or petroleum or whatever they're using as a 
base for the antibacterial compounds.  Hope this calms your fears a 
little... :)

Sarah
http://www.elizabethanlady.com

> You guys are getting me worried now...Here's my issue:
> If I take Ampicillin for 2 or more days, I always experience awful
> stomach cramps & *ahem*- other gastro-intestinal problems..
> This is a reaction right? Not an allergy?
> Also, until 2 years ago, I had never had problems using topical
> anti-biotic ointments (Bacitracin, Neosporin, Polysporin, etc.),
> but now, for some reason Polysporin causes my skin to turn bright red
> & painful but only the area it's been applied to...
> Could this mean I'm becoming allergic to spore-based antibiotics?
> Deb R.
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 

-- 
Sarah
http://www.elizabethanlady.com
"Absence of evidence, isn't necessarily evidence of absence." 
-Carl 
Sagab
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Subject: [h-cost] 1870's tie-back skirts
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Okay, this may be a really dumb question, but --

What sort of petticoat do you wear under a late 1870's tie-back skirt?  =
I've looked at some of the sources on my bookshelf, and they talk about =
a petticoat, cut along the same lines as the skirt, with ruffles down =
the back & around the hem, and possibly a small bustle pad at the back.  =
Doesn't this make a lot of bulk to tie the skirt over?  And -- should =
the petticoat also have ties?  Wouldn't that make even more bulk to tie =
the skirt over?

I know somehow I'm over thinking this!

- Kendra


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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Okay, this may be a really dumb =
question, but=20
--</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>What sort of petticoat do you wear =
under a late=20
1870's tie-back skirt?&nbsp; I've looked at some of the sources on my =
bookshelf,=20
and they talk about a petticoat, cut along the same lines as the skirt, =
with=20
ruffles down the back &amp; around the hem, and possibly a small bustle =
pad at=20
the back.&nbsp; Doesn't this make a lot of bulk to tie the skirt =
over?&nbsp; And=20
-- should the petticoat also have ties?&nbsp; Wouldn't that make even =
more bulk=20
to tie the skirt over?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I know somehow I'm over thinking =
this!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>- Kendra</FONT></DIV>
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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 17:42:01 -0400
Status: RO

Thanks Sarah. Naturally I try to avoid drugs that cause
undesirable side-effects. If I need anti-biotics, I usually
will take Erythromycin instead of any of the "illins"..
I know a lot of people experience diarrhea, cramps, etc
from Ampicillin, so I don't think that's all that atypical, but
this topic just has me worried now.
Deb

> If you read the literature that comes with the bottle of meds,
> it usually lists nausea and stomach problems as a side effect
> of the medication. Lots of meds have this problem, so it's pretty >
common.


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1870's tie-back skirts
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Kendra-
 
Bulk is what you want, in this case. You can add ties to the petticoat,
too. What you want to do is keep all the fullness at the back, none at
the sides or front.
 
Kim
 
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Kendra Van Cleave
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2002 4:12 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] 1870's tie-back skirts
 
Okay, this may be a really dumb question, but --
 
What sort of petticoat do you wear under a late 1870's tie-back skirt?
I've looked at some of the sources on my bookshelf, and they talk about
a petticoat, cut along the same lines as the skirt, with ruffles down
the back & around the hem, and possibly a small bustle pad at the back.
Doesn't this make a lot of bulk to tie the skirt over?  And -- should
the petticoat also have ties?  Wouldn't that make even more bulk to tie
the skirt over?
 
I know somehow I'm over thinking this!
 
- Kendra
 

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<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>Kendra&#8212;<o:p></o:p></span></fo=
nt></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>=


<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>Bulk is what you want, in this =
case. You
can add ties to the petticoat, too. What you want to do is keep all the
fullness at the back, none at the sides or =
front.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>=


<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>Kim<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>=


<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D2 =
face=3DTahoma><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma'>-----Original =
Message-----<br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>From:</span></b> =
h-costume-admin@indra.com
[mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] <b><span =
style=3D'font-weight:bold'>On Behalf
Of </span></b>Kendra Van Cleave<br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>Sent:</span></b> Tuesday, July 16, =
2002 4:12
PM<br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>To:</span></b> =
h-costume@indra.com<br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>Subject:</span></b> [h-cost] 1870's =
tie-back
skirts</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D3 =
face=3D"Times New Roman"><span
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D2 =
face=3DArial><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'>Okay, this may be a really =
dumb
question, but --</span></font><o:p></o:p></p>

</div>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D3 =
face=3D"Times New Roman"><span
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

</div>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D2 =
face=3DArial><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'>What sort of petticoat do =
you wear
under a late 1870's tie-back skirt?&nbsp; I've looked at some of the =
sources on
my bookshelf, and they talk about a petticoat, cut along the same lines =
as the
skirt, with ruffles down the back &amp; around the hem, and possibly a =
small
bustle pad at the back.&nbsp; Doesn't this make a lot of bulk to tie the =
skirt
over?&nbsp; And -- should the petticoat also have ties?&nbsp; Wouldn't =
that
make even more bulk to tie the skirt over?</span></font><o:p></o:p></p>

</div>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D3 =
face=3D"Times New Roman"><span
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

</div>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D2 =
face=3DArial><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'>I know somehow I'm over =
thinking
this!</span></font><o:p></o:p></p>

</div>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D3 =
face=3D"Times New Roman"><span
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

</div>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D2 =
face=3DArial><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'>- =
Kendra</span></font><o:p></o:p></p>

</div>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D3 =
face=3D"Times New Roman"><span
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

</div>

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1870's tie-back skirts
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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 15:11:14 -0700
Status: RO


>What sort of petticoat do you wear under a late 1870's tie-back 
>skirt?  I've looked at some of the sources on my bookshelf, and they talk 
>about a petticoat, cut along the same lines as the skirt, with ruffles 
>down the back & around the hem, and possibly a small bustle pad at the 
>back.  Doesn't this make a lot of bulk to tie the skirt over?  And -- 
>should the petticoat also have ties?  Wouldn't that make even more bulk to 
>tie the skirt over?

Same general shape, but of much thinner fabric.  The small amount of bulk 
the petticoat provides will keep the skirt looking nicely rounded.  Use 
ties if it needs them to make the right foundation shape.

Kayta

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From: "Mary Temple" <noxcat@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT Allergies vs Reactions
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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 22:11:19 +0000
Status: RO

Actually, prescribing antibiotics before oral surgery isn't as silly as 
prescribing them for a cold. See, Dental problems can and have caused HEART 
infections. The plaque in your mouth is the same stuff that clogs your 
arteries. It's caused by bacteria. Surgery gives the bacteria an opportunity 
to enter your blood stream. I'm happy to hear they're doing that more often.

Besides, you don't have to fill a prescription. Or take it after it's 
filled. I've flushed quite a few down the toilet in my time, and I have no 
problem saying "I won't take this pill". I am NOT a "good patient". :)

Mary/Katerine
(who is having problems controlling her desire to buy more fabric now that 
she has a steady income again - but keep the websites coming!)


>I had never had a reaction to any -cillin drug before 3 years ago and
>it was only prescribed as a precaution against infection after my oral
>surgery (yeah, I guess that kind of means it's a little over-prescribed
>if they give it to you when you're not sick, but just in case).  Within
>a few days I got the fine rash and was told to stop taking it ASAP.  I
>wasn't sick at the time, there was really no reason for me to be on
>penicillin in the first place and I was properly caring for my suture
>sites so there wasn't much of a risk that I'd develop an infection to
>begin with.  Like I said before, I have an iron constitution and I
>don't tend to aquire viruses (viruii?) and other communal bugs the way
>most people do, so the -cillin allergy isn't a big deal for me.
>Personally, I'm just as happy not to have to take one more
>overprescribed antibiotic.  Which is not to say that I don't agree with
>antibiotics, just that I question the fact that they are so readily
>available and so easy to come by.
>
> > But then, it's well known that most doctors prescribe *way* too
> > many antibiotics for the wrong reasons (faster than talking the
> > patient/parent out of it and major pressure from parents/patients.)
>
>Or for "just in case" reasons.  At one point I had 3 full bottles of
>vicodin sitting in my cupboard because two seperate doctors (my oral
>surgeon and my physician) felt that it was better if they gave me
>enough painkillers to render a horse unconscious than risk a
>potentially unhappy patient.  Doesn't matter that vicodin makes me sick
>and I'm just as happy and more conscious on Advil... I flushed all
>three bottles down the toilet, but it just made me shudder that if it
>was *this* easy to come by, no wonder there are people out there who
>are addicted to the stuff!  And don't get me started on the time I
>walked into the hospital and mentioned casually to the NP that I was
>feeling a little "down" and was handed a prescription for Prozac and
>Zoloft!!!
>
> > At least since the early 70's we doctors have been told that giving
> > antibiotics can cause major shifts in the antibiotic resistance in
> > communities. In the early 80s we saw that as a major problem with
> > the hemophilus influenza bacteria (aka "H-flu", which HIB prevents)
> > and in the last 5 years with streptococcus pneumonia (the
> > "pneumococcus", which we also have a vaccine to combat.) We
> > don't even need to talk about multiresistant staphylococcus
> > ("staph" now getting MRSC although that is mostly a problem in
> > hospitals and with patients who have major things going on like
> > needing special catheters, trachs, surgically implanted feeding
> > tubes, etc.)
>
>Exactly my feelings.  For me, it's no biggie to forego the antibiotics
>because I'm not prone to serious illness (a cold here and there, but
>nothing major).  Others are different, and should act accordingly, but
>popping Cipro out of paranoia is just plain stupid.  It's the fastest
>way to creating a new strain of something more resistant to treatment
>than pretty much anything else.  That, and failing to complete
>medication doses...
>
> >
> > OK, I'll get down off my soapbox now.
>
>Oops... Looks like I was taking up my share of the 'ol box, myself.
>Next?  ;)
>
>Sarah
>http://www.elizabethanlady.com
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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 22:37:30 +0000
Status: RO

The price for the Margarethe Hald book isn't listed as being discounted on 
the website, and it's the one I want. :(

Mary/Katerine



>>Just got a note from Kristin Payne who used to be at Boydell and Brewer
>>publishers.  She has now moved on to David Brown Book Company, and sent
>>along some information on textile books they carrying.
>>
>>In addition to Stepping Through Time: a history of shoes from Pre-history 
>>to
>>1800 they carry this one, something that a number of people on this list
>>have been interested in:
>
>I can't help but notice that their price is less than the publisher's 
>price.  So how can we get these books directly from them?
>
>Kayta
>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Jul 16 19:52:32 2002
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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 17:20:45 -0600
Status: RO


Guys, this is WAY off topic now.  Please wrap it up or take it
offline.  Thanks.

					...eliz, list admin


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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 17:31:02 -0600
Status: RO

> I thought the site said that the videos are in VHS format..
> Deb R.

VHS vs Beta isn't the problem (that's cartridge size), it's NTSC vs
PAL vs SECAM (the recording format used).

The US uses NTSC format in its videos.  The UK and many European and
Asian countries use PAL.  France uses SECAM.  You can't play one
format in a VCR of the other unless it's designed for it (tho some PAL
VCRs can [barely] handle NTSC recorded in SP mode).

The good news is that Japan uses NTSC, which means they should be
playable in a US VCR.  I'd confirm that it's NTSC before purchase,
tho, just to be safe.

						...eliz

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From: "Marna Jean" <marnajean@shootingstarhistory.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1870's tie-back skirts
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some of the petticoats from that era had casings in the back panel to =
shirr them up against the legs. I like a tier of ruffles down the back =
and a small bustle pad placed at the low hip instead of the waistline =
for most dresses in that era. I would also suggest the front panel of =
the petticoat be smooth with the ruffles confined to the side and back =
panels only - but it depends on when in the late 70's you are talking-75 =
up to 1877 they were a bit fuller with 78-79 being pretty slim, and =
starting to get fuller again in 1880. The ties aren't supposed to "bind" =
your legs together mearly pull the front of the dress flat and you don't =
want it showing through that you are bipedal! *mercy!* (wink)
MJ

Doug and Marna Jean Davis
Shooting Star Enterprises
Living History & Custom Historical Clothing
http://www.shootingstarhistory.com/home.html
 oakley@access-one.com
Alternate email-
oakley@shootingstarhistory.com

Instructor for www.costumeclassroom.com -
 Victorian and Old West Era=20
Online Classes in History and Period Sewing
  -----Original Message-----
  From: Kendra Van Cleave <kendrav@attbi.com>
  To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
  Date: Tuesday, July 16, 2002 4:35 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] 1870's tie-back skirts


  Okay, this may be a really dumb question, but --
  =20
  What sort of petticoat do you wear under a late 1870's tie-back skirt? =
 I've looked at some of the sources on my bookshelf, and they talk about =
a petticoat, cut along the same lines as the skirt, with ruffles down =
the back & around the hem, and possibly a small bustle pad at the back.  =
Doesn't this make a lot of bulk to tie the skirt over?  And -- should =
the petticoat also have ties?  Wouldn't that make even more bulk to tie =
the skirt over?
  =20
  I know somehow I'm over thinking this!
  =20
  - Kendra
  =20

------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C22CFB.15BFCCE0
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dwindows-1252" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 =
Transitional//EN">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2919.6307" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman">some of the petticoats from that era =
had=20
casings in the back panel to shirr them up against the legs. I like a =
tier of=20
ruffles down the back and a small bustle pad placed at the low hip =
instead of=20
the waistline for most dresses in that era. I would also suggest the =
front panel=20
of the petticoat be smooth with the ruffles confined to the side and =
back panels=20
only - but it depends on when in the late 70's you are talking-75 up to =
1877=20
they were a bit fuller with 78-79 being pretty slim, and starting to get =
fuller=20
again in 1880. The ties aren't supposed to "bind" your legs together =
mearly pull=20
the front of the dress flat and you don't want it showing through that =
you are=20
bipedal! *mercy!* (wink)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman">MJ</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Doug and Marna Jean Davis<BR>Shooting Star Enterprises<BR>Living =
History=20
&amp; Custom Historical Clothing<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.shootingstarhistory.com/home.html">http://www.shooting=
starhistory.com/home.html</A><BR>&nbsp;<A=20
href=3D"mailto:oakley@access-one.com">oakley@access-one.com</A><BR>Altern=
ate=20
email-<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:oakley@shootingstarhistory.com">oakley@shootingstarhistory=
.com</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Instructor for <A=20
href=3D"http://www.costumeclassroom.com">www.costumeclassroom.com</A>=20
-<BR>&nbsp;Victorian and Old West Era <BR>Online Classes in History and =
Period=20
Sewing</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
  </B>Kendra Van Cleave &lt;<A=20
  href=3D"mailto:kendrav@attbi.com">kendrav@attbi.com</A>&gt;<BR><B>To: =
</B><A=20
  href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A> &lt;<A=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A>&gt;<BR><B>Dat=
e:=20
  </B>Tuesday, July 16, 2002 4:35 PM<BR><B>Subject: </B>[h-cost] 1870's =
tie-back=20
  skirts<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Okay, this may be a really dumb =
question, but=20
  --</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>What sort of petticoat do you wear =
under a late=20
  1870's tie-back skirt?&nbsp; I've looked at some of the sources on my=20
  bookshelf, and they talk about a petticoat, cut along the same lines =
as the=20
  skirt, with ruffles down the back &amp; around the hem, and possibly a =
small=20
  bustle pad at the back.&nbsp; Doesn't this make a lot of bulk to tie =
the skirt=20
  over?&nbsp; And -- should the petticoat also have ties?&nbsp; Wouldn't =
that=20
  make even more bulk to tie the skirt over?</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I know somehow I'm over thinking=20
  this!</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>- Kendra</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C22CFB.15BFCCE0--

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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 18:59:18 -0600
Status: RO

Must be local-water thing, or something.  The tansy-dyed wools done by
my friends were very lovely shades of an almost olive-green.  The silks
were similar, but lighter.
--sue

Teddy wrote:
> 
> > Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote
> > >Is that *with* an iron afterbath, or *without?*
> > >--sue, completely enamored of tansy-dyed wool.....
> >
> > I think the best glow comes from the plutonium afterbath :-)  (sorry,
> > I'm not the dyer, I have absolutely no idea!)
> 
> Having seen the sickly colours produced on wool from tansy dying
> this weekend, I have to say I don't care what was used.... The
> colours reminded me of bile with a fluorescent tinge.....<shudder>
> 
> As I described that range of colours a few years ago - "the sort of
> green that narrowly misses being a particularly noxious shade of
> yellow and would probably have been better if it hadn't"
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Subject: [h-cost] OT-looking for a book--Help!
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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 18:10:40 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Greetings to the list.

I'm looking for a book(s) published in 1989 by
Marshall Cavendish Ltd called "Die Renaissance." It's
at least a 2 volume set (a friend has volume 2).
There's no ISBN and no editor listed.

It's in German, but I suspect it was published in
London. I happened across another book published by
Marshall Cavendish Ltd and the city listed was London.

Can anyone give me any ideas as to where to look for
this book? I've tried abebooks and a couple of other
book sites, to no avail. It's a great book, just full
of color plates of paintings and portraits. I'd really
like to have a copy--my friend lives 22 hours away, so
looking up stuff is a tad difficult...

Kate

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Subject: [h-cost] McFarland House costume display
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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 22:17:35 -0400
Status: RO

Greetings all:

Members of h-costume from southern Ontario and northern New York State (or 
anyone who doesn't mind a drive) may be interested in a  special exhibit, 
"Lady of the House, A Women's World As Seen In Dress 1810 - 1845." at 
McFarland House 15927 Niagara Parkway, Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON 905-371-0254 
1-877-642-7275. Open 10:00 to 4:00

A few of the gowns can be seen at:

http://www.niagaraparks.com/index.html/DYNS/lady_of_the_house/PS/340/sid/ErAqw00ViRn1IISi

There are about 6 gowns from  personal collection of Diane Gallinger of 
Jordan Heritage Resources, c. 1810 and 1845.

Diane Gallinger purchased  the c. 1810 gown at a farm auction for $20 
Canadian (- I'd  hate her if she wasn't so nice - we met her at the site - 
and saved it from being cut up or trashed.)  No one else had any idea what 
it was. It's muslin with a train - embroidery a la Mathilde down the centre 
front and hem. It was made for a tiny women. Most of the other gowns are 
for people about 5 foot, (I'm f5' 9" - I notice these things) but this is 
much smaller. The embroidery is exquisite! it reminds me of the gowns in 
"Age of Napoleon". ( I should get the book out from the local University 
and compare it again in the flesh, or in the fabric!) Granted, it could 
have made its way to Canada any time in the last 190 years, but it was 
intriguing to see such a dainty, labour-intensive garment with a Canadian 
provenance.

How come when I go to farm auctions, there's nothing but rusty old tools 
and china from K-Mart ? Life is cruel.

Sheridan Alder

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From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: different velvets
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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 21:53:12 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


> wear badly- eventually they started calling it velveteen about the mid
> 1880's but what I have read it was a bit "plusher" than most of the
> velveteen is now- more like the cotton/rayon velveteen.

Quick (and belated, but I'm a bit behind and wanted to make sure nobody
else had addressed the issue first) clarification:  Velveteen is *NOT*
another name for velvet made out of cotton.  Velvet and velveteen are two
different fabrics with different weave structures.

Boy, this is hard to explain...especially slightly sleep-deprived.

brief weaving lesson: Warp threads are the long threads that go the length
of the fabric and are stretched on the loom.  Weft (or woof or filling)
threads are the ones that go back and forth from selvedge to selvedge.

Velvet is a warp-pile fabric.  There are extra warp threads that are
looped up between the rows of weft thread and cut.  Terrycloth is also
made this way, but the loops are left uncut.

Velveteen is a weft-pile fabric.  There are extra weft threads that are
left as floats (skipping over several warp threads) and cut.  Corduroy is
another weft-pile fabric.

Velvet be long pile or short pile, made out of cotton or silk or polyester
or wool and is always called velvet.

Velveteen can be long pile (though that's harder...) or short pile, and
made of any fiber, though cotton is most common.

It is possible to tell, by close inspection, which is which, assuming you
know where the selvedge is.  There is probably a difference in drape,
though it is slight.

For all practical purposes, you can continue calling short-napped cotton
velvet (if you could find such a thing) velveteen, and nobody would care,
except me. ;)

Emma, textile major wannabe.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Sewing, England vs US, was: Re: different velvets
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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 20:29:48 -0700
Status: RO

> Most sewing stores in the US have re-made half their fabric space into
> craft space.  And most of the craft stuff they stock is junky stuff,
> or no-talent kits.  The quality of the fabric has gone down too.  If
> Jo-Ann's and Walmart ever routinely had good fabric, they don't now
> except by accident.  

Or a very astute and well educated (textile wise) manager.
 

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: different velvets
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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 22:33:01 -0600
Status: RO

Hey, that's interesting.  Thanks for explaining it so clearly.
--sue

Emma Elizabeth Lehman wrote:
> 

> brief weaving lesson: Warp threads are the long threads that go the length
> of the fabric and are stretched on the loom.  Weft (or woof or filling)
> threads are the ones that go back and forth from selvedge to selvedge.
> 
> Velvet is a warp-pile fabric.  There are extra warp threads that are
> looped up between the rows of weft thread and cut.  Terrycloth is also
> made this way, but the loops are left uncut.
> 
> Velveteen is a weft-pile fabric.  There are extra weft threads that are
> left as floats (skipping over several warp threads) and cut.  Corduroy is
> another weft-pile fabric.
> 
> Velvet be long pile or short pile, made out of cotton or silk or polyester
> or wool and is always called velvet.
> 
> Velveteen can be long pile (though that's harder...) or short pile, and
> made of any fiber, though cotton is most common.
> 
> It is possible to tell, by close inspection, which is which, assuming you
> know where the selvedge is.  There is probably a difference in drape,
> though it is slight.
> 
> For all practical purposes, you can continue calling short-napped cotton
> velvet (if you could find such a thing) velveteen, and nobody would care,
> except me. ;)
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Subject: [h-cost] Help on Stain Removal
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Please help!  I just finished a new dress and have discovered a stain of 
unknown origin on the front of the bodice.  It looks like some sort of oil, 
but I'm not sure.  The bodice fabric is 100% linen.  Recommendations and 
advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Nancy
aka Maddalena Salutati


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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">Please help!&nbsp; I just finished a new dress and have discovered a stain of unknown origin on the front of the bodice.&nbsp; It looks like some sort of oil, but I'm not sure.&nbsp; The bodice fabric is 100% linen.&nbsp; Recommendations and advice would be greatly appreciated!<BR>
<BR>
Thanks,<BR>
<BR>
Nancy<BR>
aka Maddalena Salutati<BR>
<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help on Stain Removal
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 09:52:45 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- MaddNancy@aol.com wrote: > Please help!  I just finished a new dress and
have discovered a stain of 
> unknown origin on the front of the bodice.  It looks like some sort of oil, 
> but I'm not sure.  The bodice fabric is 100% linen.  Recommendations and 
> advice would be greatly appreciated!
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Nancy
> aka Maddalena Salutati

Nancy, try Oxi Clean. It works wonders, the only fabric one can't use it on is
silk, but linen is n problem, in fact I just managed to get rid of nasty brown
stains (caused by a white (!!!) sun blocker) in my linen underdress by just
using it as a laundry booster in the machine. It can be dabbed onto the stain
and should do the trick. I am sure you can get it in the US too? here it is
sold in Asda's and at Lakeland.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 10:25:23 +0100
Status: RO

I've searched the database available to us, but no luck.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> macailith@yahoo.com 07/17/02 02:10am >>>
Greetings to the list.

I'm looking for a book(s) published in 1989 by
Marshall Cavendish Ltd called "Die Renaissance." It's
at least a 2 volume set (a friend has volume 2).
There's no ISBN and no editor listed.

It's in German, but I suspect it was published in
London. I happened across another book published by
Marshall Cavendish Ltd and the city listed was London.



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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] different velvets
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 11:55:21 +0000 (GMT)
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> If it's got to be historically accurate or the pattern demands
> something a bit stiff, go for the Acetate-Nylon. 

I'd say," If it's got to be historically accurate or the pattern demands 
something a bit stiff, and/or If it's a Renaissance fair that's usually 
muddy, don't go for either.  Go instead for the washable and more 
breathable curtain-weight cotton velvet, but make sure you pre-
wash it on hot before you cut and make anything from it so that it's 
pre-shrunk.

>  Some stores sell "velvet needleboards" for ironing on, but the
> hook side of Velcro works well too.  Place the Velcro strip
> hook-side-up atop your ironing board, then lay the seam you wanna
> press on top (pile-side-down) and iron gently. 
 
Thanks for the tip Gillian!  As I use cotton velvet mostly (second-
hand curtains are great and cheap too!) I don't really have any 
problems with ironing on the back of it, but that's a great tip to 
remember if I happen to be doing something non-historical or for 
someone who inists on acetate-belend velvet.


Teddy
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 11:59:09 +0000 (GMT)
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> Ok, am I allergic to every period fabric but silk?!  Grr...  I could
> make such wonderfully authentic garb if I didn't get rashes from wool,
> linen, mohair/angora, and many of the wild animals they used for fur
> trim.  Just call me synthetic.
> 
> --Gillian

Cotton wasn't on your list, so you could make a substitute for 
cotton velvet and not be wearing low-breathability synthetics.... as 
for the fur allergy issue - realistic looking synthetic will probably be 
your only option there

Teddy
(who did a trade last year, with someone whose husband has a 
severe fur allergy - a heap of cotton velvet for a heap of fur she 
couldn't use because he attends all the events she does.)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: different velvets
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 12:19:41 +0000 (GMT)
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> Am I correct in my impression that this is not the state in Britain?
> If sewing is considered a specialty skill or hobby, fabric stores
> would be considered specialty stores.

I don't know about the current National Curriculum, but 
"Needlework" used to be one of the subjects.  I was the only boy 
who took it right through to the exams, but two others applied to 
take it for the initial year, though one waas moved out to do 
Cookery when the class was oversubscribed (and I was annoyed 
on his bahalf beciase many of the girls only chose needlework 
because it seemed liek an "easy-option" to fill their timetabels and 
he had chosen it because he wqs interested, and there wasn't ever 
a question of one of the *girls* being told to swap to cookery 
<Grrr....>.  I heard he went on to become a highly-paid chef, so 
perhaps it worked out for  the best, but even so)

Not that I learned anything in those classes (other than making 
continuous placket openings) that I hadn't already figured out for 
myself or have actually had a need to use since - and I only just 
scraped through the final exam with a passing grade despite having 
kept my sisters and cousins in clothes, party dresses and "posh 
frocks" for the three years I was doing the classes.




Teddy
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Subject: [h-cost] Sewing, England vs US,
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 07:23:21 -0400
Status: RO


> Jean wrote about England:
 I remember making a fluffy rabbit at
> > Brownies, but somehow it doesn't go on in this country.  It's one of
> > those things they make you do at school but nobody ever does it at
> > home.  It's just cultural, I'm not sure why.
> >
> > I agree, dressmaking nowadays is considered a minority hobby, rather
> > than an essential - patchwork and home decorating are on the up, so
> > those shops are more common.
>
> The US is heading in this direction. I think that's why we are losing
> so many of our good fabric stores. They are either going home
> deco, quilting (which I think is what you mean by patchwork) or
> high scale tailoring. That doesn't leave much for the recreational,
> historical or cheap home sewer.
(snipped)
> > I just can't imagine how people survive without sewing - any useful
> > thingy I need, I do it with fabric.

As I teach Home Ec (now FaCs - Family & Consumer Skills) in Central New
York,  I know that all students in 6, 7, or 8th grades (about ages 11-13)
must get in about 30 weeks of  Home Ec, mandated by the state.  Few ever see
another course in it, especially since so many High School Courses are now
mandated for them.
  Most of the courses now focus on how to havea a balanced diet, how to deal
with family & friends, childcare skills, how to read advertisements &
consumer awareness, how to manage finances, etc.
Sewing skills are limited to making something very small.
  I am the only teacher I have yet met in New York State who drags her kids
through sewing a sweatshirt, or any garment at all!  But then, I am one of
very, very few TEACHERS who loves to sew.  And apparently one of the few who
can do basic maintenance on the machines, so that I still have 14 working
old Singers - the simple kind built for schools back in the 70s, that are
all metal, and are fairly hard for the kids to destroy.   I have a good
working relation with a fairly local Bernina shop that repairs them - he
believes that he will get more customers if they learn to sew somewhere, so
he helps me out fairly cheaply.   He tells me a lot about what goes on in
classrooms in a fairly large area, even if I don't get it by being our local
representative for the Mohawk Valley and going to a lot of meetings! Most
classrooms I have seen might have 3 sewing machines, which means that you
have about 10 kids per machine.
  I have them learn to embroider their initials in the tags of t-shirts
before we tie-dye them.   I justify that under the How to do Laundry unit,
specifically titled as the How to Avoid Pink Underwear lesson.
  Then we learn to use a machine, then we sew drawstring bags.  THAT's
always fun - watching the boys, especially, pull on the double strings to
close the bag, then open it, then close it.....     They get amazed at the
mechanics of this thing they made.  Then we do a pincushion in the shape of
a star, which is graded onlooking like a star or like a blob  It is useful
for throwing games, mostly,  but lets me get in how to sew things CLOSED by
hand.   Then we either make a hat (school colors, of course!),  or I drag
them through a sweatshirt.
   Even I skipped the sweatshirts last year when they put in 9 kids who had
come out of their own enclosed classroom with a special ed teacher and an
aid, but the school put them in my class (without telling me they were
coming!) and told me to deal with it, they should learn my stuff.   I agree
with it, but they put them in on top of my regular class size, so I had 9
more kids than I had seats, or books, or anything for.  And those 9 kids
were not used to being in with other students, or being in a regular class
at all.   So I found myself skipping a lot of stuff that I PUSH my kids to
achieve.
    Sewing projects take a lot of time when you are dealing with anywhere
from 12 to 26 kids (we have small classes, it is a very small school), and
it is a real art to get kids to accomplish things, when they all want your
individual attention about every step of the way.  Not to mention that you
have to let them handle lots of very dangerous small objects.   Seam rippers
can disappear even faster than pins, needles, and scissors!  By the way, the
seam ripper is the only object in my classroom to have a name - Mr. Seam
Ripper becomes everyone's best friend (although some have the classic
love-hate relationship with him).
But it does take time, and A LOT OF EFFORT & Patience.   I don't think it
will be making a comeback anytime soon.
So it is up to everyone who DOES sew to put their art out where people see
it, and want to learn to do that.                      Rowena
--==% `%%%,
       | '  )  `%%,
       \_/\ @%%,
       __@@" %%%--"""-.%,
     /`__|                           \%%
      \\  \        /        |        / '%,
        \]         /----'.           <  `%,
               |    |             `>>   >
               |    |            ///`
              /   (           //(


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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Re: different velvets
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 12:23:22 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> So now I have a print with a really nice irregular grey pattern behind
> the white areas. My question: How do I keep it this way? Should I
> expect that the dye will continue to run on further washings, or will
> it stay put? Should I just dry-clean the finished garment? I don't
> want to run it through the wash with a dye magnet, because I want to
> keep the streaking that's already there.

If you were over here I'd suggest you run it through the washer with 
a packet of the dye-stabiliser that dylon sell... that would fix the dye 
that has run and that hasn't run already and keep it as close tohow 
it is aleady as you're likely to get it.  Do the brands of dye over there 
have similar products?



Teddy
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 12:30:48 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote: > 
> > Ok, am I allergic to every period fabric but silk?!  Grr...  I could
> > make such wonderfully authentic garb if I didn't get rashes from wool,
> > linen, mohair/angora, and many of the wild animals they used for fur
> > trim.  Just call me synthetic.
> > 
> > --Gillian
> 
> Cotton wasn't on your list, so you could make a substitute for 
> cotton velvet and not be wearing low-breathability synthetics.... as 
> for the fur allergy issue - realistic looking synthetic will probably be 
> your only option there

You could make under garments from cotton and line wool garments with cotton so
that it doesn't touch your skin.

Nicole

=====
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Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] different velvets
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 12:33:00 +0100 (BST)
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 --- Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote: > 

> Thanks for the tip Gillian!  As I use cotton velvet mostly (second-
> hand curtains are great and cheap too!) I don't really have any 
> problems with ironing on the back of it, 

I don't either, but what I use when I iron the seams of a thicker cotton velvet
is using a brush, I have some biggies, which are shoe brushes (it's important
they are natural bristles or they melt!) and had never been used, from the 60s.
Works a treat too.

Nicole

=====
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Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re:[h-cost] Fabric shops in the UK
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 12:37:07 +0000 (GMT)
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> It's getting more and more difficult to find decent stuff in general
> shopping areas.
> 
> I'm extremely lucky, as about a mile from where I live there is a
> fabulous fabric shop "The Shuttle". If any of you are ever in the
> Bradford, West Yorkshire,

You also have Whaleys (Bradford) Ltd.... I buy all my calico from 
them, plus canvas and other fabrics (their LRK88 cotton is lovely 
stuff for anything that needs a very thin and floaty cotton).




Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sewing, England vs US,
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 12:45:32 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Rowena <sleepyunicorn@citlink.net> wrote: > 

> As I teach Home Ec (now FaCs - Family & Consumer Skills) in Central New
> York,  I know that all students in 6, 7, or 8th grades (about ages 11-13)
> must get in about 30 weeks of  Home Ec, mandated by the state. 

If I may say so, I am amazed that something like this is taught in the US, as I
haven't come across anything like that in my German NorthRhine Westphalian 13
years school career (graduated in 88 to go to Uni), because Home Ed was
regarded as being backwards and interfering or something like that. I guess
that was because Northrhine Westphalia was a very liberal left government and
it was/is totally uncool to teach something like that. *laughs*
I find it very fascinating to hear that these things are taught and that indeed
sewing is occasionally taught beyond primary school age. I remember we did a
bit of cord making and easy embroidery and things like that in primary school
(born in 69) for boys and girls, and fotball for boys and girls too. :-) That
was it though, and when I went to grammar school at the age of ten, I was a
'paradise bird' when I got to puberty, because I could sew (taught by my mum)
and myself all these extraordinary clothes that had this slightly different
knack to anything one could buy. Admttedly I started sewing for me instead of
my Barbie because my mum refused to by the designer labels for me that were so
in, and I thought HA! I know just the way to be ahead of the game and
'different' and thus on a par with the kids whose parents did agree to spend
all that money on a blooming label by making something myself (hand printed
tops, painted and/or dyed trousers, appliqued coats and skirts, extraordinary
fabrics, laced tight trousers, hand knit wildly patterend jumpers etc etc) and
it worked. Got for the first time the friendly label of the extravagant nutter,
and floated happily along with the 'rich kids' who envied ME. What a funny
world!!! 
I still wear big baggy shirts mostly to work from the re-enactor's market or
self made to work, mostly because I hate the clothes one can buy in England
(sorry, fellow UK'ers but the fashion in this country is appalling, ugly,
synthetic, stretchy skin tight stuff in horrid colours for skinny 14 year olds
*shudder* ;-) When I actually bought a frilly black shirt in Etam the other
week because it was cotton and marked down to 8 pounds my colleagues squealed
'Oh my god, she is wearing a shirt with BUTTONS!'
*grins*
you should hearthem screeching when I wore a bogstandard t-shirt underneath an
open baggy laced shirt...

Nicole - with a cold at home and not wanting to sew because of feeling rotten.

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT-looking for a book--Help!
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 05:38:18 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Thanks for looking. I do appreciate your time and
trouble. I really think that I'm never going to find
it...

kate

--- Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote:
> I've searched the database available to us, but no
> luck.
> 
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
> 
> >>> macailith@yahoo.com 07/17/02 02:10am >>>
> Greetings to the list.
> 
> I'm looking for a book(s) published in 1989 by
> Marshall Cavendish Ltd called "Die Renaissance."
> It's
> at least a 2 volume set (a friend has volume 2).
> There's no ISBN and no editor listed.
> 
> It's in German, but I suspect it was published in
> London. I happened across another book published by
> Marshall Cavendish Ltd and the city listed was
> London.
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 14:31:59 +0100 (BST)
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 Quick note on velvet boards (which I'm pretty sure John Lewis sell).  Obviously, they're used to avoid crushing the pile when pressing velvets/velours/velveteens/anything else with a pile.
My Nana (trained as a tailor in the 40s) taught me to use a big fluffy towel, laid over the ironing board, (white or cream, to avoid problems with colour bleed).  Provided the pile on the towel is deep enough, and the velvet is pressed face down, it does the same job, in preventing the velvet pile from being crushed.
Debbie.




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<P> Quick note on velvet boards (which I'm pretty sure John Lewis sell).&nbsp; Obviously, they're used to avoid crushing the pile when pressing velvets/velours/velveteens/anything else with a pile.
<P>My Nana (trained as a tailor in the 40s)&nbsp;taught me to use a big fluffy towel, laid over the ironing board, (white or cream, to avoid problems with colour bleed).&nbsp; Provided the pile on the towel is deep enough, and the velvet is pressed face down, it does the same job, in preventing the velvet pile from being crushed.
<P>Debbie.</P><p><p><br><hr size=1><a href="http://uk.yahoo.com/mail/tagline_xtra/?http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html"><b><font face="Arial" size="2">Get a bigger mailbox -- choose a size that fits your needs.</font></b></a><br><br><a href="http://uk.yahoo.com/mail/tagline_xtra/?http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html"><font face="Arial" size="2">http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html</font></a>
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 07:38:26 -0600
Status: RO

Sorry to hear that you're home sick...colds are no fun! When I'm feeling
that punk, I like to curl up on the couch with an afghan and a cat or
two, and a pot of hot tea, and look through all my costuming and
needlework books (I have several bookcases of them), and reacquaint
myself with the ones I haven't seen in a while....Gives me ideas for new
outfits, and lets me lean back and take a nap when I need to, too.
I would imagine that learning-sewing experiences depend on when and
where in the U.S. a given individual grew up.  I was born in 1960, and
spent most of my growing-up years on a farm in a largely rural state
(Montana), and my schooling was in a small town nearby. When I went
through Jr. High (grades 7-8), we got a "quarter" (one-third of the
school year) of mandatory Shop or HomeEc.  Girls were required to take
the HomeEc, and boys, the Shop.  I don't recall anyone being allowed to
take the other sex's class.  We also all got a quarter of typing, and a
quarter of something else I don't remember <g>.  ISTR that one could go
on, and take additional classes in shop or HomeEc, but that one class
was pretty much mandatory.  My baby sister (16 years younger than I am)
went through the same school system, and by her time, it'd become co-ed,
and more along the "life skills" line....
I found the HomeEc pretty frustrating--it was mostly cooking-oriented,
and I'd been cooking at home for several years by that point (started
when I was about 6).  For girls who'd never learned at home, though, it
was probably not such a bad deal.
I actually did my first embroidery in the Girl Scouts when I was 9, and
learned to sew on the sewing machine a few years later in 4-H Club.  (I
don't know if there are non-US equivalents to the 4-H Clubs in the
U.S....they're oriented to kids who grow up on farms and ranches, and
involve learning a variety of related skills--different kinds of
cooking, sewing, all sorts of livestock (from chickens to beef,
depending on what you wanted to do), leadership skills, etc.).  My first
"official" garment was a green velvet mini skirt *laughs* The leaders
thought I was nuts, and that it was way too difficult....but I did just
fine and have been sewing ever since, although mostly quilts (patchwork)
and historical costuming.  I occasionally do "mundane" sewing for
myself, but who's got the time when the blackwork is calling? or the
gothic fitted gown? or the Norse apron dress? (and spending the evening
drooling over various sack-backed gowns doesn't help either! <g>)
--Sue, in beastly hot and smoky Montana, looking forward to a cool,
green England in 6 weeks....


N Kipar wrote:
> 
>  --- Rowena <sleepyunicorn@citlink.net> wrote: >
> 
> > As I teach Home Ec (now FaCs - Family & Consumer Skills) in Central New
> > York,  I know that all students in 6, 7, or 8th grades (about ages 11-13)
> > must get in about 30 weeks of  Home Ec, mandated by the state.
> 
> If I may say so, I am amazed that something like this is taught in the US, as I
> haven't come across anything like that in my German NorthRhine Westphalian 13
> years school career (graduated in 88 to go to Uni), because Home Ed was
> regarded as being backwards and interfering or something like that.
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] different velvets
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 14:55:30 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO



> >  In the areas I've been, all the Asian stores sell 100% polyester
> > only. 
> 
> And often calling it "palace silk" making you think you're getting
> real silk. ;)

Many of them, here in England at any rat, have no idea what the 
fibre content is, or what constitues accuracy in the labelling or what 
they tell you when you buy.  I've given up shopping in such places 
becaise too many times I've had to go back to complain about 
something sold as 100% natural fibre (I always ask before I buy to 
make sure) that turns out to be a blend when I do a burn test, or 
throw it in the machine to dye it.... So far I've had responses to my 
complaints ranging from an exchange for more fabric (none of 
which they can guarnatee are natural fibre), arguments that it 
doesn't matter what the fibre content is as no-one but the 
manufacturer could possibly be interested and it looks pretty 
anyway  through refunding the money (but nothing to cover the cost 
of the wasted dye or my wasted time in buying the stuff, dying it 
and then taking it back to complain).  It's just too much hassle for 
me to bother taking the time to check those shops for the 
occasional rare worth-buying find.


Teddy
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sewing, England vs US,
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 15:11:06 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote: > Sorry to hear that you're home
sick...colds are no fun! When I'm feeling
> that punk, I like to curl up on the couch with an afghan and a cat or
> two, and a pot of hot tea, 

It's too warm for all that! I hate summer colds. *whines* Thanks Sue for the
sympathy. :-)

and look through all my costuming and
> needlework books (I have several bookcases of them), and reacquaint
> myself with the ones I haven't seen in a while....Gives me ideas for new
> outfits, and lets me lean back and take a nap when I need to, too.

Well, I decided that finally I should get up from my seat and do something
useful like ironing my linens. here I am, happily spraying away onto y
undredress, thinking I am using spray starch, wondering about the perfumed
smell and the squeaky way the iron runs over it until the last bits when I
discovered I used Febreeze instead of spray starch. ACK! braindead indeed.

> and historical costuming.  I occasionally do "mundane" sewing for

I find that there were lots of very nice and useful sewing magazines in germany
back in the 80s (Burda publishing house) with superb fashionable patterns. Most
of all 'Burda International'. I think most were just petered out and stopped.
*sigh*

> --Sue, in beastly hot and smoky Montana, looking forward to a cool,
> green England in 6 weeks....

Ha!!! I could be anything in six weeks, in fact it could be anything each day.
snow, sun, heat, fog, ice, rain, gales, mud, just about anything :-))) The
continent has a climate, England has weather. Oh how true this is I learned in
the last years.

Nicole - refusing to do anything 'useful' today and taking up Sue's suggestion.
But which of the dozens and dozens of books to peruse? :-)

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sewing in UK(WAS: different velvets)
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 15:43:49 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

> and they would make something for the same purpose in their own way
> - I make a bag, they make a box. But sewing takes less cleaning up
> after! 

<laughs!>  Jean, it's obvious that you have never seen me sewing

Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Heat in England (WAS: Fabric Prices)
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 15:47:37 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 
> Teddy wrote:
> > The  diamonds are about 2.5 inches high from point to point and the
> > trellis around them about 3 inches and it just looked so sumptuos
> > that I couldn't resist the chance to get a linen (oh so cool and
> > comfy to wear in hot weather despite Robin's teasing about not
> > needing it in England...<g>) that doesn't look like a linen.
> 
> She obviously wasn't there when I was there. It wasn't the day we
> went to Hampton Court with you, but a couple of the other days were
> in the upper 80s (I don't remember what that was in centigrade as I
> translated it into fahrenheit so that I could figure out why I was
> so miserable.) It was very muggy and hot, but it was a complete
> surprise to the residents as well as us "furiners" since it was
> only late April or early May. 

We do get hot weather in the summer (as well as unseasonally 
early in the year like when you visited) and It takes more getting 
used to for people who *aren't* used to it than for people who live in 
places where very hot weather is something they're more 
acclimatised to.... or so I reckon.

> (It was a very short skirt and my research assistant kept
> complaining about how the guys were ogling me on the Underground.

Next time you'll have to pack more of them!




Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cope on display in V&A (WAS: different velvets)
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 15:52:10 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 
 
> > Don't they have a (13th century I think) embroidered red velvet cope
> > on display that was cut up and made into another garment (tunicle or
> > dalamtic?) later, then was pieced back together into a cope?
> 
> Are you thinking of the red cloak on display in the costume area at
> the V&A which used to be a skirt? It is heavily embroidered. But it's
> 16/17th C and in pretty good shape.

Nope this is a cope that has been re-made as a cope after it was 
cut up for something else - displayed, along with several others, 
spread flat in a wall-case in the ecclesiastical/religious artefacts 
section rather than in the textiles display area.
 
> It would not be unusual, however, for the ecclesiastic copes to be
> used to make other ecclesiastic garments (such as dalmatics or the
> like.)

The details are hazy but it was definately something else it had 
been cut up for.
 
> > To me it looked just like the worn red velvet of the seats you used
> > to get in old cinemas... well the bits not covered in embroidery did
> > anyway.
> 
> That does sound more like a cope, but I don't remember a red cope
> at the V&A. (I'll have to look through my pictures as I got shots
> of everyone of the copes on display, the the dismay of my research
> assistant.) 

You must have a picture of it then... Of cousre, you'll then find it 
was actually a dark blue brocade altercloth and that I've just 
misremebered the details....<G>
 

Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tansy wool (WAS: Photos of 1700... )
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 16:00:54 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 
> Must be local-water thing, or something.  The tansy-dyed wools done by
> my friends were very lovely shades of an almost olive-green.  The
> silks were similar, but lighter. --sue

That sounds much nicer.

Teddy
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jul 17 11:36:46 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sewing, England vs US,
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 15:09:23 +0000
Status: RO

But the very best thing is still if you can learn to sew from your mom :-)


>As I teach Home Ec (now FaCs - Family & Consumer Skills) in Central New
>York,  I know that all students in 6, 7, or 8th grades (about ages 11-13)
>must get in about 30 weeks of  Home Ec, mandated by the state.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kyoto Costume Institute
In-Reply-To: <000c01c22cd4$dac49380$55c98693@creighton.edu> "from Cynthia Abel
 at Jul 16, 2002 09:27:02 am"
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 08:16:59 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

they mailed me and told me the book was in japanese. 
was the stateside one?  I've only seen scans from it, but I thought it
was in translation?

.heather.


> At least the price hasn't gone up, even though the cover might have
> changed(or is the cover on the website actually the box for the video?). I
> bought mine a good five years ago and paid about $45 for it. But my
> bookstore(whose employee went the extra mile in return for a peek at the
> book)found a stateside source. This book is just priceless!!
> 
> BTW, does anyone on the list know a rough conversion from Yen to US$ and if
> the video works in US VCR's In Japanese or English, to view some of what's
> in the book on video--for us that have frame advance or slow mo features on
> our VCRs--to get to view the actual costumes in possibly more than one view.
> Yum, Yum!
> 
> Cindy Abel
> ILL Coordinator
> Health Sciences Library
> Creighton University
> 2500 California Plaza
> Omaha NE 68178-0210
> Phone: 402. 280-5144
> Fax:     402.280-5134
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jul 17 11:53:51 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT-looking for a book--Help!
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 15:26:30 +0000
Status: RO

Marshall Cavendish is the editor, btw... they make reference books. There 
website is here: www.marshallcavendish.com


I'm thinking that your book could be one of the volumes of one of their 
encyclopedias, such as History of the Modern World
http://www.marshallcavendish.com/mcc/container.asp?series_id=1&imprint=Marshall+Cavendish+Reference+Books&element=display%2Easp&sku=0%2D7614%2D7147%2D2

or even

Great Artists of the Western 
Worldhttp://www.marshallcavendish.com/mcc/container.asp?series_id=1&imprint=Marshall+Cavendish+Reference+Books&element=display%2Easp&sku=0%2D86307%2D743%2D9

So you might want to search for the whole collection of books instead of 
just the one volume you need.

Anyway, good luck!


> > >>> macailith@yahoo.com 07/17/02 02:10am >>>
> > Greetings to the list.
> >
> > I'm looking for a book(s) published in 1989 by
> > Marshall Cavendish Ltd called "Die Renaissance."
> > It's
> > at least a 2 volume set (a friend has volume 2).
> > There's no ISBN and no editor listed.
> >
> > It's in German, but I suspect it was published in
> > London. I happened across another book published by
> > Marshall Cavendish Ltd and the city listed was
> > London.
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 11:27:27 -0400
Status: RO

I was thinking the same thing. I sew at the kitchen table, and it tends to
look like there has been been a massive explosion at a thread factory!

But I did finish my lavender brocade Italian!! I put it up on eBay
though--it's beautiful. but it's synthetic, and I just don't want to wear it
now. You all have infected me!

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Teddy" <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 17, 2002 11:43 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sewing in UK(WAS: different velvets)


> > and they would make something for the same purpose in their own way
> > - I make a bag, they make a box. But sewing takes less cleaning up
> > after!
>
> <laughs!>  Jean, it's obvious that you have never seen me sewing
>
> Teddy
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jul 17 12:19:58 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Help on Stain Removal
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 15:53:59 +0000
Status: RO

Oxi-Clean is a modern day miracle!  You can get it in the US at Wal-mart for 
pretty cheap.  It gets everything out!  I swear by the stuff!  It can also 
be used on old fabrics that have yellowed over time with great success.  
It's gentle and really gets the stain out of all colors.  "Gets your whites 
whiter and your brights brighter!"  I use it as an additive to all my loads 
of wash, a tough stain can be treated by making a paste and applying 
directly and can be used to soak items overnight for ease of washing the 
next day.  It seems to work best is warm water, but still works fine in 
cooler temps.

This is one "As seen on TV" items that is really a good thing.

:)  jessica

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sewing in UK(WAS: different velvets)
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 16:54:50 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Dianne and Greg Stucki <goofy1@suscom.net> wrote: > 
> But I did finish my lavender brocade Italian!! I put it up on eBay
> though--it's beautiful. but it's synthetic, and I just don't want to wear it
> now. You all have infected me!
> 
> Dianne

Dianne, send us the link, I would love to see it!

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 09:43:18 -0700
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> > (It was a very short skirt and my research assistant kept
> > complaining about how the guys were ogling me on the Underground.
> 
> Next time you'll have to pack more of them!

Honey, that was 30# ago and how many years ago! I can't fit in the 
little darlings anymore and it would look like mutton dressed up as 
lamb to try!!


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 09:43:19 -0700
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>   And apparently one
> of the few who can do basic maintenance on the machines, so that I
> still have 14 working old Singers - the simple kind built for schools
> back in the 70s, that are all metal, and are fairly hard for the kids
> to destroy.  

Probably 60s. Singer came out with the Touch-N-sew (also known 
as Touchy-sew) in the mid-60s. They quit making all metal 
machines about that time. (Damn them!) Even the schools had the 
Touchy-sews. In 1966 we had all new Touchy-sews and 2 of the old 
metal Singers. They got rid of the last of them within 2 years and 
got more of the Touchy-sews.

Mom actually bought a TouchySew for me when I took that class 
(so I wouldn't touch her beloved White). It was the model one up 
from the base version we had at school. I used it for years and 
would probably still have it except that was what my ex-husband 
was using to bash open a trunk when the SWAT team came to 
take him out of the house he was trashing. (I had been divorced 
from him for 2 1/2 years at that time.)  Fortunately, he thought the 
brand new Pfaff was my roommates or he would have destroyed it 
too. Instead he just pulled over the bookshelf it was on.

>  I justify that under the How to do Laundry
> unit, specifically titled as the How to Avoid Pink Underwear lesson.

I hope your students appreciate you! You teach them what they 
need to know but manage to make it fun at the same time. (No, I 
won't sing the Mary Poppins "Spoonful of sugar" nursery cleaning 
song. No, I won't or it will be with me all day!)

Too bad you couldn't have just the special ed kids as a special 
class. I bet they'd enjoy it (unless they were severe and profound) 
the way you describe teaching it. 


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cope on display in V&A (WAS: different velvets)
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> > That does sound more like a cope, but I don't remember a red cope at
> > the V&A. (I'll have to look through my pictures as I got shots of
> > everyone of the copes on display, the the dismay of my research
> > assistant.) 
> 
> You must have a picture of it then... Of cousre, you'll then find it
> was actually a dark blue brocade altercloth and that I've just
> misremebered the details....<G>
> Teddy

Oh, Teddy darling, you could do us one even better. *You*, who live 
so close to the actual source, could go to the V&A and look at it 
and tell us. That way we *know* that we aren't mixing up copes. ;)


Kat 

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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 12:38:13 -0400
Status: RO

A pattern company - Truly Victorian - run by Heather and Laura McNaughton, make a bustle petticoat pattern that they have taught at Costume College in Van Nuys, CA.  It has a smooth front with the bustle cage wire at the back with an optional ruffle overlay designed specifically for those 1870-1880 costumes.  They also have a plain petticoat version.  Their web site is www.trulyvictorian.com.  They are both fantastic women, extremely knowledgeable and great teachers!(I made one in their class and it came out just as they said!)

Donna Scarfe
Fyne Hats By Felicity
Period Headgear for Past Ages
www.fynehatsbyfelicity.com

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From: "Sarah Lorraine" <sarah@elizabethanlady.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sewing, England vs US,
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 12:47:41 -0400
Status: RO

> If I may say so, I am amazed that something like this is taught in 
the US, as I
> haven't come across anything like that in my German NorthRhine 
Westphalian 13
> years school career (graduated in 88 to go to Uni), because Home Ed 
was
> regarded as being backwards and interfering or something like that. I 
guess
> that was because Northrhine Westphalia was a very liberal left 
government and
> it was/is totally uncool to teach something like that. *laughs*

I'm going to add my voice to this sentiment, but the difference is that 
I'm a Californian!  When I was in school (lessee, that was about 1983-
1996) sewing was definately not taught, neither in the private school I 
attended for kindergarden through 2nd grade, nor the public schools I 
attended after that.  The emphasis was always on math and sciences, and 
during the early 90's, nearly all art programs were cut from California 
schools, making it even more rare to have something like Home Ec or 
Family Sciences or whatever they call it these days.  You had your pic 
of a general art class which taught painting and drawing, or you could 
chose a music course (either orchestra, band or choir) and if your 
school was really well funded, you had the option of theater and dance 
classes.  But no sewing.  I learned by virtue of having a mother who 
learned from her mother, etc.  Basically, once I discovered renaissance 
faires, she made it clear to me that if I wanted a costume, I had to 
sew it myself.  That got me motivated right quick!  

I was also a Girl Scout, and that was about the only enviornment 
outside of my own home where I was exposed to sewing.  Because, like, 
if you're lost in the wilderness, you're always going to have a sewing 
machine with you to make potholders, right?  Sheesh.  I had to learn 
survival skills from my mom as well (and now I can start fires with 
just a pile of dry leaves and two sticks!  My mom rocks!).  

> I find it very fascinating to hear that these things are taught and 
that indeed
> sewing is occasionally taught beyond primary school age. I remember 
we did a
> bit of cord making and easy embroidery and things like that in 
primary school
> (born in 69) for boys and girls, and fotball for boys and girls 
too. :-) 

I came into the world during the age of equal oppertunity between 
genders, which meant everyone had the pleasure of getting pelted in 
dodge ball, beaned with a softball and generally ridiculed by other 
students for not being sports inclined.  Ah, love that gender equality 
thing.  I'm hearing that schools are starting to clue into the hell of 
forced competitive sports in elementary schools and are starting to do 
away with games like dodge ball (the bane of my childhood existence) 
because they do more emotional damage than physical enhancement. And 
speaking as someone who once was a very small, very thin little girl 
who was more of a dreamer than a sports goddess, it's about damn time!

-- 
Sarah
http://www.elizabethanlady.com
"Absence of evidence, isn't necessarily evidence of absence." -Carl 
Sagan
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From: "Linda Walton" <linda.walton@dsl.pipex.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sewing, England vs US,
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 17:49:38 +0100
Status: RO

----- Original Message -----
From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>

> But the very best thing is still if you can learn to sew from your mom :-)
>

I can't resist this subject any longer:  all your comments have made me
realise how lucky I was in my schooldays !

They were so different that looking back feels like seeing a piece of living
history.  My school was in a village high in the Pennines, an area of lonely
hills in northern England.  (We relied on at least one extra week's holiday
a year when the snow was so deep that the school had to be closed.)  It took
everyone, boys and girls, between the ages of five and fifteen:  although a
new scheme of primary and secondary schools had been introduced by the
government, (with the break at eleven years), they were still building a new
secondary school in the next nearest town in my day.  As our numbers were
small, we gathered into groups for most lessons that were wider than the
single year of age which seems to be the norm for classes now, although the
boys did not do needlework and the girls did not do woodwork.  It was
pleasant to work in groups like that because when I was young the older ones
would help me with difficulties and encourage me, and when I was older I
found that teaching something to someone else was by far the best way to
learn it properly for myself.  Every Thursday afternoon, we would sit by the
windows, chatting quietly - which was an unusual liberty - and make 'useful'
items.

At first we learnt simple things:  I remember embroidering a canvas
dressing-table mat with brightly coloured wools, and making a pin cushion,
(which is still in my sewing box).  Later, there was a gingham apron, and
matching long sleeve protectors for when you were washing dishes.  How bored
I got with the long french seams up the sides of a nightdress, (all
handsewn), which had to be taken out and redone over and over again, until I
got them straight enough, and the stitches even enough.  Still, it has
proved useful training since.

Later, my parents moved house and I was lucky enough to win a scholarship to
a girls-only grammar school.  It was run by nuns, so the needlework was
definitely maintained at a high standard.  I remember a whole year when we
did all kinds of repairs - probably one of the most useful things I have
ever studied.  Once in our teens, we made a blouse, and then a skirt.
Eventually we were considered sensible enough to progress to the use of the
two precious sewing machines in the needlework room.  In my last year we
were allowed to choose what we wanted to make, and I shocked my teacher by
opting for a lined woollen cloak, although it was a fashion item, not a
historic reproduction.  To my amazement, I discovered that there was a whole
new world of tailoring techniques to acquire.

Subsequent learning has been from books, and from this excellent group.  But
we certainly seem to have covered far more needlework than most of you have
done.  It was fortunate that I did, because my mother couldn't sew for
toffee.  She told me that she was so bad at needlework when she was at
school that she was put on to leatherwork instead:  I had to do all the
family sewing as soon as I could manage it.  However, I know she could knit,
because I remember a fairisle jumper; although a neighbour taught me the
basics of knitting, (because my mother's work kept herfar too busy), and I
picked up the rest from a pattern book.  Somehow, I never seem to have
learned to crochet, but I enjoy making bobbin lace now - again self-taught.
Looking back, I am surprised that we continued to do needlework right
through school, although - because I was put in an 'academic' stream, we
never did any other sorts of "domestic science".  When I left school, I
still didn't know how to make a cup of instant coffee, let alone how to shop
for and cook a meal, or run a house, or care for children, (Perhaps
unconsciously they expected that we would all become nuns, or maybe - it has
just occurred to me - that was all they knew !)  Still, they had taught me
how to learn subjects from books, and that has sufficed.

My sister is a teacher of ten-to-eleven-year-olds, and - as far as I can
tell - the pressure is all on learning "the three r's".  This is probably
just as well because, although my sister was a very successful scientist
before she turned to teaching, she inherited my mother's sewing genes.
However, I think that we learned reading and tables and so on too, yet had
more peaceful and happy schooldays.  I regret that her pupils will never
enjoy sitting and sewing, (nor going for nature walks), as we did.  And how
will they make the leap into understanding the construction of early
clothing ?  How did you all manage to do it ?

yours sincerely,
Linda Walton
(in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.).

P.S.  Sorry this has turned out to be so long - nostalgia seems to have had
me in its grip . . .

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] English fabric shops
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 11:38:14 -0500
Status: RO

It took me a few days to dig the bag out, but I found a really nice
little shop in London which I jokingly call 'Plunkett and McLean' due to
the name's similarity to the movie. Actually the name is MacCulloch and
Wallis Ltd. It's located on a little side street off of Oxford Street
called Dering Street. It's between the Bond Street and the Oxford Circus
Tube stations. It's got nice fabrics and the second floor has a terrific
notions section while the third floor has lots of millinery supplies.
They even sell corset laces! 


Karen

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From: Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
Subject: Burda Mag alive and well, was Re: [h-cost] Sewing, England vs US,
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 09:52:01 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

--- N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote:
[snip]
> I find that there were lots of very nice and useful sewing
> magazines in germany
> back in the 80s (Burda publishing house) with superb fashionable
> patterns. Most
> of all 'Burda International'. I think most were just petered out
> and stopped.
> *sigh*
[snip]

Burda is alive and well and translated into English! AND, there is a
new Burda magazine for beginning sewers with easier patterns and more
detailed instructions in it (although I think it only is published
quarterly or something like that). I have been subscribed to Burda
mag for a couple of years now and I find the patterns fit me much
better than the large American pattern companies. If you are in the
US, you can subscribe via http://www.glpnews.com. If you have never
seen Burda magazine you should try it!!! 

Just a satisfied costumer/customer...

mirv


=====
Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
http://www.darkthreads.com
Personal log: http://darkthreads.blogspot.com
"No ship will ever take you away from yourself."--Constantine Cavafy

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From: "Marna Jean" <marnajean@shootingstarhistory.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kendra's 1870 petticoat question
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 11:54:16 -0500
Status: RO

yes, but that pattern is too full at the top for late 1870's(natural form
dresses) the construction of wire bustles in that particular time frame is
totally different from anything I've seen on the web pattern wise. The plain
petticoat might be a better choice... but if you have a skirt pattern it
would be simple to just add the back ruffles for a petticoat made to your
skirt shape.
MJ

.  It has a smooth front with the bustle cage wire at the back with an
optional ruffle overlay designed specifically for those 1870-1880 costumes.
>
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References: <200207171516.g6HFGx226045@jabberwock.wonderland.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kyoto Costume Institute
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 10:01:44 -0700
Status: RO

Yes, there's definitely an English-language version -- I have a library copy
in my house right now!

Having the Japanese version wouldn't be TOO bad, as the really cool thing
about the book is all of the amazing color photos.  But there is a really
interesting article by Janet Arnold on 18th c. dress construction that would
be a shame to miss.

- Kendra

----- Original Message -----
From: "Heather Meadows" <alice@wonderland.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 17, 2002 8:16 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kyoto Costume Institute


> they mailed me and told me the book was in japanese.
> was the stateside one?  I've only seen scans from it, but I thought it
> was in translation?
>
> .heather.
>
>
> > At least the price hasn't gone up, even though the cover might have
> > changed(or is the cover on the website actually the box for the video?).
I
> > bought mine a good five years ago and paid about $45 for it. But my
> > bookstore(whose employee went the extra mile in return for a peek at the
> > book)found a stateside source. This book is just priceless!!
> >
> > BTW, does anyone on the list know a rough conversion from Yen to US$ and
if
> > the video works in US VCR's In Japanese or English, to view some of
what's
> > in the book on video--for us that have frame advance or slow mo features
on
> > our VCRs--to get to view the actual costumes in possibly more than one
view.
> > Yum, Yum!
> >
> > Cindy Abel
> > ILL Coordinator
> > Health Sciences Library
> > Creighton University
> > 2500 California Plaza
> > Omaha NE 68178-0210
> > Phone: 402. 280-5144
> > Fax:     402.280-5134
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jul 17 13:34:21 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1870's tie-back skirts
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 10:05:30 -0700
Status: RO

Thanks to everyone for the feedback on 1870's petticoats!

Marna Jean, can you describe this again?  I'm having trouble picturing what
you've described.

> some of the petticoats from that era had casings in the back panel to
shirr them up against the legs.

The dress I'm making is probably from about 1876 (it's the Janet Arnold c.
1874-77 dress -- looking at fashion plates, it looks like '75 or '76 to me).
That's good advice re: moving the bustle pad down -- I was definitely
planning on a flat front with ruffles down the back.

> I like a tier of ruffles down the back and a small bustle pad placed at
the low hip instead of the waistline for most dresses in that era. I would
also > suggest the front panel of the petticoat be smooth with the ruffles
confined to the side and back panels only - but it depends on when in the
late
> 70's you are talking-75 up to 1877 they were a bit fuller with 78-79 being
pretty slim, and starting to get fuller again in 1880. The ties aren't
> supposed to "bind" your legs together mearly pull the front of the dress
flat and you don't want it showing through that you are bipedal! *mercy!*

I have seen the Truly Victorian natural form petticoat pattern -- I'll have
to look at it more closely at Costume College!

- Kendra


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kyoto Costume Institute
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 10:11:29 -0700
Status: RO

>> BTW, does anyone on the list know a rough conversion from Yen to US$ 

Try the Universal Currency Converter here: http://www.xe.com/ucc/

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Jul 17 13:39:50 2002
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Burda Mag alive and well, was Re: [h-cost] Sewing, England vs US,
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 18:11:35 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Megan Irvine 
> Burda is alive and well and translated into English! 

Ohhh, I have to check how to get it in England! If all else fails I could ask
my mum to send it over I guess, but I hate asking them all the time or my
friends, because it is pretty impossible to send money to and fro the
continent. I know it sounds daft but it's true. English cheques areonly
accepted in England. bank transfers are exorbitantly expensive. BRING IN THE
EURO!!!!!!

megan, have you tried their specials? the trousers/blouses/skirts ones? they
come quarterly. do they still do the burda international? Burda's fit is
superb, I agree!

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: [h-cost] Kyoto Costume Institute - Revolution in Fashion carefully
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 10:29:54 -0700
Status: RO



The one I have is definitely in English - it is printed by Abbeville Press.
The first 24 pages are text - there is a forward by the French ambassador to
Japan (8 lines) a preface by the director of the National museum of modern
art in Kyoto (the parent organization of the costume institute) an
Introduction by the director of the costume institute and an  essay by Jean
Starobinski, a professor at the University of Geneva, and art critic on
Rococo and Neoclassicism - this essay has some black and white prints of
rococo art and architecture.  There is next an essay by Philippe Duboy,
Architecture Historian, Paris which also has some black and white
reproductions.  
Then the "meat" of the book starts with full color plates of garments on
mannequins, some close up and detail shots until page 108 - these have no
text at all on the page expect the page number - the language the book is
printed in would make no difference.

Following the full color section there are more essays, first one by Akiko
Fukai, the co-curator of the Kyoto costume institute called Rococo and
Neoclassical clothing. It makes some interesting observations and has some
black and white illustrations.   Next is an essay called "One More Desire:
Fashion Leaders of a Dramatic Era"  It discusses Pompadour, Marie Antoinette
and Josephine.  It has black and white prints of portraits of them and of
Vigee-Lebrun.   The next essay is by Toshio Horii, Professor of European
History, Osaka entitled "From an Age of Refinement to the world of the
Tempest.  It discusses the changes in society and dress that accompany the
social and political revolution.  There is one black and white print in
there.  

Pages 126-134 present an essay by Janet Arnold on the cut and construction
of Women's clothes in the Eighteenth Century.  This essay includes three of
her pattern drawings line in her big flat books but they are printed without
the grid lines - they are sill useful, they inculde the Sack or robe a la
francsois, the Robe Anglaise and an 1810 Muslin gown.  Martin Kamer, costume
historian and collector, Zug, Switzerland chimes in last with a three page
essay on Brilliant Adornments - the jewelry of the period.  There are no
illustrations in his essay.

Pages 138 - 153 are the plate commentary - there are lots of small black and
white photos of the same garments we see in the color plates here, with
extensive information about many of the items, including dates,  and
who/what museum owns the items.  There are also some additional period
illustrations in this section that help show the garments in their original
context.  Pages 154-155 contain information on the garments that were in the
exhibition but were not included in the color plates. There are eight
garments shown in black and white.

Pages 156-161 have a very interesting chronology and page 162 contains a
glossary continuing on to half of page 163 which then has the index up to
page 165.  Page 166 has the credits of the show.

So - the pictures are worth a thousand words but the words aren't too bad
either.  I would probably buy the book in Japanese if I didn't already have
it in English, then I would check out a copy from the library and read the
English parts, make notes on the interesting stuff and keep the notes with
the Japanese copy.  But, I have already done that with numerous non-english
fashion books that are "photo heavy" - if that is your style, then you must
get this book. 

I hope this helped and hasn't bored you all silly.
Agnes

> From: Heather Meadows <alice@wonderland.com>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 08:16:59 -0700 (PDT)
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kyoto Costume Institute
> 
> they mailed me and told me the book was in japanese.
> was the stateside one?  I've only seen scans from it, but I thought it
> was in translation?
> 
> .heather.
> 
> 
>> At least the price hasn't gone up, even though the cover might have
>> changed(or is the cover on the website actually the box for the video?). I
>> bought mine a good five years ago and paid about $45 for it. But my
>> bookstore(whose employee went the extra mile in return for a peek at the
>> book)found a stateside source. This book is just priceless!!
>> 
>> BTW, does anyone on the list know a rough conversion from Yen to US$ and if
>> the video works in US VCR's In Japanese or English, to view some of what's
>> in the book on video--for us that have frame advance or slow mo features on
>> our VCRs--to get to view the actual costumes in possibly more than one view.
>> Yum, Yum!
>> 
>> Cindy Abel
>> ILL Coordinator
>> Health Sciences Library
>> Creighton University
>> 2500 California Plaza
>> Omaha NE 68178-0210
>> Phone: 402. 280-5144
>> Fax:     402.280-5134
>> 
>> 
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> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sewing, England vs US,
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 18:30:02 +0100 (BST)
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 --- Linda Walton <linda.walton@dsl.pipex.com> wrote: > 

*snippage*

Thanks Linda for sharing that, it was fascinating! I grew up in school during
the 80s (oh my, wasn't the music great and the hair styles silly, including my
own :-))) gender equality at home and at school wasn't even an issue, I guess
that germany was ahead, or maybe it was the part where I came from? That's more
likely. I wish though instead of just doing nothing they would have taught both
the guys and the gals needlework AND shop. I learned needlework all from my mum
and shop all from my dad. Yessir, I can and did and do build my own furniture
and DIY.

> enjoy sitting and sewing, (nor going for nature walks), as we did.  And how
> will they make the leap into understanding the construction of early
> clothing ?  How did you all manage to do it ?

With my mum's help, but the rest came via the academic approach. Books, books,
studying extant garments, learning how to 'read' and evaluate sources, etc. It
came through school and through Uni in combination with my mum's skills she
taught me. Nowadays I am better in some things than my mum (she cannot make
anything without a properly fitting pattern) and others I'll never reach her.
(her tailoring techniques are IMMACULATE! But that's my mum, always perfect
:-))

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Roscelin, thanks for that awesome link!  There are many stores on that list 
that were not yet in my Favorite Places.  This will greatly expand my 
sources.  

I wonder if someone could make a page where we could all add our supply sites 
to create a "master list" of costuming supplies?

--Gillian, who doesn't know a darn thing about web design


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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
<BR>
Roscelin, thanks for that awesome link!&nbsp; There are many stores on that list that were not yet in my Favorite Places.&nbsp; This will greatly expand my sources.&nbsp; <BR>
<BR>
I wonder if someone could make a page where we could all add our supply sites to create a "master list" of costuming supplies?<BR>
<BR>
--Gillian, who doesn't know a darn thing about web design<BR>
<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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<< We
could take "home economics" or sewing classes in school. (Boys were more
likely to take "shop" classes that included woodworking and similar
skills. Today I gather that the names of the classes are less
gender-oriented, and students are welcome to take whichever they want, but
I suspect some noticeable gender division remains in class makeup.)>>

I graduated in '93 in NY.  In middle school/junior high students of both 
sexes took 2 mandatory classes: Home Economics and Tech.  Home-Ec taught 
basic cooking and sewing, while Tech was architecture, electronic circuits, 
basic machines, and technical drawing.  There was only one class level of 
each, so there was no opportunity to continue your education in that area.  
So, for my school at least, the gender make-up was exactly the same as the 
gender make-up of the school itself.  Now I can carve an aerodynamic CO2 car 
from a block of wood, while my brother can sew on his own buttons. LOL

Can everybody add their own experiences?  I'd be curious to see how many of 
us are still exposed to sewing in school, and how that may be affecting the 
declining home sewing industry...

--Gillian the seamstress

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">&lt;&lt; We<BR>
could take "home economics" or sewing classes in school. (Boys were more<BR>
likely to take "shop" classes that included woodworking and similar<BR>
skills. Today I gather that the names of the classes are less<BR>
gender-oriented, and students are welcome to take whichever they want, but<BR>
I suspect some noticeable gender division remains in class makeup.)&gt;&gt;<BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
I graduated in '93 in NY.&nbsp; In middle school/junior high students of both sexes took 2 mandatory classes: Home Economics and Tech.&nbsp; Home-Ec taught basic cooking and sewing, while Tech was architecture, electronic circuits, basic machines, and technical drawing.&nbsp; There was only one class level of each, so there was no opportunity to continue your education in that area.&nbsp; So, for my school at least, the gender make-up was exactly the same as the gender make-up of the school itself.&nbsp; Now I can carve an aerodynamic CO2 car from a block of wood, while my brother can sew on his own buttons. LOL<BR>
<BR>
Can everybody add their own experiences?&nbsp; I'd be curious to see how many of us are still exposed to sewing in school, and how that may be affecting the declining home sewing industry...<BR>
<BR>
--Gillian the seamstress</FONT></HTML>

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From: "Marna Jean" <marnajean@shootingstarhistory.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1870's tie-back skirts
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 12:32:39 -0500
Status: RO

Do you have Victorian Fashions and costumes from Harper's bazar1867-98 ,
Stella Blum, ed.?
if so look on page 146 view a- this petticoat shows a casing right above the
knee line to hold the fullness back- it could then be let out for
pressing/starching.

Basically if you are using Janet Arnold 74-77 pattern you will definitely
need some "fluff" underneath your tie back strings to get the desired shape
(I would say this dress is definitely 1876 or 77 because rounding the
armscye to the shoulder really didn't become popular until then-- or at
least that is the year the fashion magazines start showing and mentioning
it- I'm big on correct seamlines)
You can use the same front and side panels as the skirt, and make the back
panel shorter (basically remove the pleating on the sides) Then starting at
the hipline put tiers of ruffles that will cover the sideback and back
panels. If you want it somewhat "convertible" place a casing on the
petticoat in the same manner underneath the ruffles, or place ties in the
petticoat itself to hold it back. The ideal position for a casing would be
right at the top edge of a ruffle, so that it would serve to gather it in,
in a bit more controlled manner.
Still not sure I'm making sense- but if you can get to that book I think the
picture will make up for my failings in description.

MJ

>
>Marna Jean, can you describe this again?  I'm having trouble picturing what
>you've described.
>
>!
>
>- Kendra
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] photos
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 13:37:23 -0400
Status: RO

I just threw up a very quick web page for my photos. (I only have the onde
dress up so far!)

http://diannestucki.tripod.com/
----- Original Message -----
From: "N Kipar" <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 17, 2002 11:54 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sewing in UK(WAS: different velvets)


> --- Dianne and Greg Stucki <goofy1@suscom.net> wrote: >
> > But I did finish my lavender brocade Italian!! I put it up on eBay
> > though--it's beautiful. but it's synthetic, and I just don't want to
wear it
> > now. You all have infected me!
> >
> > Dianne
>
> Dianne, send us the link, I would love to see it!
>
> Nicole
>
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
> Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: marquis@kipar.org
>
> __________________________________________________
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] English fabric shops
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 18:42:54 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- seamstrix@juno.com wrote: > It took me a few days to dig the bag out, but
I found a really nice
> little shop in London which I jokingly call 'Plunkett and McLean' due to
> the name's similarity to the movie. Actually the name is MacCulloch and
> Wallis Ltd. It's located on a little side street off of Oxford Street
> called Dering Street. It's between the Bond Street and the Oxford Circus
> Tube stations. It's got nice fabrics and the second floor has a terrific
> notions section while the third floor has lots of millinery supplies.
> They even sell corset laces! 
> 
> 
> Karen

Uhmm.. may I give a word of warning? the prices are exorbitantly exaggerated
and I found that the staff was most arrogant. BUT that may only have been my
two bad experiences, maybe they just had two bad days.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kyoto Costume Institute
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 13:35:25 -0400
Status: RO


Seriously, if I were you I would hold out for the English version.
Besides the pictures, there is much info that I'm sure you would
want to read. I have used "Revolution" as a reference for writing
papers in grad school; one was on 18th c. fashion & one on Rococo
silk. IMHO, it's a really good source of info & pictures; a must-have.
I paid $85 for mine new when it first came out.
It's absolutely worth it I'm tellin ya...
Deb

> Having the Japanese version wouldn't be TOO bad, as the really cool thing
> about the book is all of the amazing color photos.

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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 18:56:55 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Dianne and Greg Stucki <goofy1@suscom.net> wrote: > I just threw up a very
quick web page for my photos. (I only have the onde
> dress up so far!)
> 
> http://diannestucki.tripod.com/

That's a lovely gown Dianne!

Nicole 

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 10:41:39 -0700
Status: RO

That's weird. I wonder why they told you that? The copy I got was all in 
English, not a word or character of Japanese anywhere to be seen.

Julie

At 10:19 AM 7/17/2002, you wrote:
>Message: 1
>From: Heather Meadows <alice@wonderland.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kyoto Costume Institute
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 08:16:59 -0700 (PDT)
>Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
>they mailed me and told me the book was in japanese.
>was the stateside one?  I've only seen scans from it, but I thought it
>was in translation?
>
>.heather.


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From: Wanda Pease <wandap@hevanet.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT-looking for a book--Help!
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 10:44:03 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

If the is the pair of books I have it was published as a catalogue for an
exhibition in Heidelberg back in 1989.   This may be why there is no ISBN
number.  There weren't many copies
printed, but it does have some lovely pictures.  

Regina Romsey


On Wed, 17 Jul 2002, Kate M Bunting wrote:

> I've searched the database available to us, but no luck.
> 
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
> 
> >>> macailith@yahoo.com 07/17/02 02:10am >>>
> Greetings to the list.
> 
> I'm looking for a book(s) published in 1989 by
> Marshall Cavendish Ltd called "Die Renaissance." It's
> at least a 2 volume set (a friend has volume 2).
> There's no ISBN and no editor listed.
> 
> It's in German, but I suspect it was published in
> London. I happened across another book published by
> Marshall Cavendish Ltd and the city listed was London.
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 

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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 14:08:58 EDT
Status: RO


--part1_35.29d0c241.2a670cba_boundary
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<<The first stage penicillin reaction is the fine rash, I had
it too.
But that's just the sensitivity stage.

    Next time, watch out.  You may very well have an
anaphylactic reaction----hives, swelling--including major
swelling shut of the airway!----and extremely irregular
heart beat.
    In other words, you can be dead in 5 or 10 minutes, and it
won't be fun.>>
    

This happened to me as a young girl.  The first time I had penicillin, I got 
the rash -- but my mother thought it was a fever/heat rash.  The second time 
I had it I apparently got rushed to the ER.  I've had some other rather 
deadly allergic reactions in my lifetime -- especially to perfumes -- so I'm 
kinda chicken to press my luck with something that gives me a rash the first 
time.  Hence my fabric problem -- to get back on topic...  If I know American 
linens give me hives every time I wear them, I'm a bit timid about trying 
some labeled "organic Irish."  I mean, what if it is not the American 
processing?  What if our own over-processing is the only thing keeping me 
from a more deadly reaction?

--Gillian

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">&lt;&lt;The first stage penicillin reaction is the fine rash, I had<BR>
it too.<BR>
But that's just the sensitivity stage.<BR>
<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Next time, watch out.&nbsp; You may very well have an<BR>
anaphylactic reaction----hives, swelling--including major<BR>
swelling shut of the airway!----and extremely irregular<BR>
heart beat.<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; In other words, you can be dead in 5 or 10 minutes, and it<BR>
won't be fun.&gt;&gt;<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <BR>
<BR>
This happened to me as a young girl.&nbsp; The first time I had penicillin, I got the rash -- but my mother thought it was a fever/heat rash.&nbsp; The second time I had it I apparently got rushed to the ER.&nbsp; I've had some other rather deadly allergic reactions in my lifetime -- especially to perfumes -- so I'm kinda chicken to press my luck with something that gives me a rash the first time.&nbsp; Hence my fabric problem -- to get back on topic...&nbsp; If I know American linens give me hives every time I wear them, I'm a bit timid about trying some labeled "organic Irish."&nbsp; I mean, what if it is not the American processing?&nbsp; What if our own over-processing is the only thing keeping me from a more deadly reaction?<BR>
<BR>
--Gillian</FONT></HTML>

--part1_35.29d0c241.2a670cba_boundary--
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From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: shop and home economics
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 13:16:16 -0500
Status: RO

>
> Can everybody add their own experiences?  I'd be curious to see how many
of
> us are still exposed to sewing in school, and how that may be affecting
the
> declining home sewing industry...
>
> --Gillian the seamstress
>

Well, when I was in jr. high (1984-85) we had 1 semester of Home Ec and 1 of
Shop. Each semester was cut into 2 quarters. When in HomeEc, I got a quarter
of cooking, which was rather fun and somewhat useful. It was after that that
I think Mom started to let me help in the kitchen.

The other quarter was sewing. I distinctly remember having to sew a pillow
in the shape of a letter (I picked K to give to my sister, whose birthday
was coming up, I think). I'm pretty certain we had to learn other stuff, but
I can only really remember the pillow.

However, the summer before starting high school, my mother passed by a local
fabric shop in the mall where my dad's shop was and saw a schoolmate of mine
learning to sew from the manager there. The deal was she could use the
machines in the shop if she bought what she needed there. (The manager was a
family friend of hers, I think). Mom asked if I could get the same deal, so
I spent a few days a week in the fabric store picking out patterns and
fabric and learning how to sew! That was much more useful than the pillow.
After that I really didn't do much sewing until I started college. I can
remember the surprise in my mother's voice when I asked for a sewing machine
for Christmas :-) Now the majority of my sewing is historical - there's no
time to make mundane clothes!

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
Bristol,
BRF FOF

So many books, so little time

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************


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From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kyoto Costume Institute - Revolution in Fashion carefully desctibed
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 18:37:13 +0000
Status: RO

I'll buy the  book, whatever the language. I want the IMAGES. The text I'll 
photocopy from the copy I got in the library, if I must. The really, really 
important thing is the images. Although it is good to know which parts of 
the costumes are originals and which parts are reproductions (a lot of the 
shoes are reproductions, for example, and so are most of the gloves).

>So - the pictures are worth a thousand words but the words aren't too bad
>either.  I would probably buy the book in Japanese if I didn't already have
>it in English, then I would check out a copy from the library and read the
>English parts, make notes on the interesting stuff and keep the notes with
>the Japanese copy.  But, I have already done that with numerous non-english
>fashion books that are "photo heavy" - if that is your style, then you must
>get this book.


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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sewing in UK(WAS: different velvets)
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 19:45:18 +0100
Status: RO

Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote
>> and they would make something for the same purpose in their own way
>> - I make a bag, they make a box. But sewing takes less cleaning up
>> after!
>
><laughs!>  Jean, it's obvious that you have never seen me sewing
>
>Teddy

Not unless your sewing propels dust into every part of the house like 
power sanding does!

-- 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: different velvets
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 19:44:31 +0100
Status: RO

Debbie Lough <debbie_lough@yahoo.co.uk> wrote
>Quick note on velvet boards (which I'm pretty sure John Lewis sell). 
>Obviously, they're used to avoid crushing the pile when pressing
>velvets/velours/velveteens/anything else with a pile.
>
>My Nana (trained as a tailor in the 40s) taught me to use a big fluffy towel,
>laid over the ironing board, (white or cream, to avoid problems with colour
>bleed).  Provided the pile on the towel is deep enough, and the velvet is
>pressed face down, it does the same job, in preventing the velvet pile from
>being crushed.
>
>Debbie.
>

Quick and dirty version - another bit of velvet, especially that 
disgusting yellow shade of curtains you find in charity shops!

Jean
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sewing, England vs US,
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 19:42:35 +0100
Status: RO

N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote
> --- Rowena <sleepyunicorn@citlink.net> wrote: >
>
>> As I teach Home Ec (now FaCs - Family & Consumer Skills) in Central New
>> York,  I know that all students in 6, 7, or 8th grades (about ages 11-13)
>> must get in about 30 weeks of  Home Ec, mandated by the state.
>
>If I may say so, I am amazed that something like this is taught in the US, as I
>haven't come across anything like that in my German NorthRhine Westphalian 13
>years school career (graduated in 88 to go to Uni), because Home Ed was
>regarded as being backwards and interfering or something like that. I guess
>that was because Northrhine Westphalia was a very liberal left government and
>it was/is totally uncool to teach something like that. *laughs*
>I find it very fascinating to hear that these things are taught and that indeed
>sewing is occasionally taught beyond primary school age. I remember we did a
>bit of cord making and easy embroidery and things like that in primary school
>(born in 69) for boys and girls, and fotball for boys and girls too. :-)

We did a schools day at the recent event, and I was really surprised how 
interested the girls, particularly, were in my luceting.  We pushed 
women's work quite a lot as important stuff that needs to be done, and 
the whole management aspect of being left to keep the manor while the 
men go off to war, but I was surprised how they gravitated to learn what 
we were doing.  I don't think they do much real handwork in schools now 
- mostly consumer education and fashion type stuff.

>I still wear big baggy shirts mostly to work from the re-enactor's market or
>self made to work, mostly because I hate the clothes one can buy in England
>(sorry, fellow UK'ers but the fashion in this country is appalling, ugly,
>synthetic, stretchy skin tight stuff in horrid colours for skinny 14 year olds
>*shudder* ;-)

Let's see, is there anyone on this list, in the UK, who actually *likes* 
current fashion??  It's not the impression I've got from people.  I find 
myself wishing I could wear Norman to work, but it might not give the 
best impression, as a civil servant!  And then I wouldn't get promoted 
to a high enough salary to wear all the linen, wool and silk I covet :-)

Jean

>When I actually bought a frilly black shirt in Etam the other
>week because it was cotton and marked down to 8 pounds my colleagues squealed
>'Oh my god, she is wearing a shirt with BUTTONS!'
>*grins*
>you should hearthem screeching when I wore a bogstandard t-shirt underneath an
>open baggy laced shirt...
>
>Nicole - with a cold at home and not wanting to sew because of feeling rotten.
>
>=====
>Nicole Kipar M.A.
>Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
>Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
>URL: http://www.kipar.org/
>Email: marquis@kipar.org
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
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>from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
>http://uk.my.yahoo.com
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 11:45:33 -0700
Status: RO


>But the very best thing is still if you can learn to sew from your mom :-)
>
>
>>As I teach Home Ec (now FaCs - Family & Consumer Skills) in Central New
>>York,  I know that all students in 6, 7, or 8th grades (about ages 11-13)
>>must get in about 30 weeks of  Home Ec, mandated by the state.

Neither one of my kids, here in California, had to take any Home Ec 
classes.  One refused to learn to sew, preferring to wheedle me into doing 
it, and the other one bugging me to teach her to crochet, and 'next time I 
see you, lets sew some doll clothes'.


Kayta

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sewing, England vs US 2
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 11:52:25 -0700
Status: RO


>I came into the world during the age of equal oppertunity between
>genders, which meant everyone had the pleasure of getting pelted in
>dodge ball, beaned with a softball and generally ridiculed by other
>students for not being sports inclined.  Ah, love that gender equality
>thing.  I'm hearing that schools are starting to clue into the hell of
>forced competitive sports in elementary schools and are starting to do
>away with games like dodge ball (the bane of my childhood existence)
>because they do more emotional damage than physical enhancement. And
>speaking as someone who once was a very small, very thin little girl
>who was more of a dreamer than a sports goddess, it's about damn time!

Where I came into the (California) world before that time.  My high school 
councillor told me I could do anything I wanted, as long as it wasn't wood 
shop, metal shop, or auto shop.  We had the mandatory Home Ec classes, in 
junior high, where I wasn't allowed to sew as well as I knew how because it 
was in advance of what the rest of the class was doing.  The boys couldn't 
take cooking or sewing at this time either.  All I remember from the 
cooking unit was that once I had to figure out the cost of two stewed 
prunes to the nearest tenth of a cent.  To this day I'm not much of a 
cook.  But I sewed my first historical, hat, purse, and dress, in 1971.

Kayta

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From: kj green <macailith@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT-looking for a book--Help!
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 12:04:10 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Thank you for the information! I have some other
questions:
Do you remember if there was a house associated with
the show? 
Or, who managed/directed the show?
Was it School of History at Heidelberg or School of
Art? 
Were there paperbacks?

Any help would be most appreciated!
kate



--- Wanda Pease <wandap@hevanet.com> wrote:
> If the is the pair of books I have it was published
> as a catalogue for an
> exhibition in Heidelberg back in 1989.   This may be
> why there is no ISBN
> number.  There weren't many copies
> printed, but it does have some lovely pictures.  
> 
> Regina Romsey
> 
> 
> On Wed, 17 Jul 2002, Kate M Bunting wrote:
> 
> > I've searched the database available to us, but no
> luck.
> > 
> > Kate Bunting
> > Library, University of Derby
> > 
> > >>> macailith@yahoo.com 07/17/02 02:10am >>>
> > Greetings to the list.
> > 
> > I'm looking for a book(s) published in 1989 by
> > Marshall Cavendish Ltd called "Die Renaissance."
> It's
> > at least a 2 volume set (a friend has volume 2).
> > There's no ISBN and no editor listed.
> > 
> > It's in German, but I suspect it was published in
> > London. I happened across another book published
> by
> > Marshall Cavendish Ltd and the city listed was
> London.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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