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From: "Jane Williams" <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
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Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 08:11:22 +0100
Status: RO

Well, I'm back from Germany, Austria, and other 
interesting places, have turned mail from this list 
back on, and now want to browse throught he 
archives for the last two weeks to see what I've 
missed. Only I can't figure out how. I can see a 
search engine, but without knowing what topics to 
search for, it isn't going to help me. No Browse 
facility, as far as I can see. There's the opportunity to 
download a complete year's worth of info, which 
would do, but 2002 isn't one of the years on offer.
Help?




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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Aug  1 03:32:46 2002
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Reform or Aesthetic Dress
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Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 08:12:32 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Agnes G <countess11@mac.com> wrote: > Have you looked at the La Mode
Bagatelle Aesthetic Reform Tea Gown Pattern?
> I know some people have used it as a wedding dress.  It's based roughly on
> garments in the V&A and other museums.

I have the pattern (and no, sadly,  the dress isn't even a twinkle in my eye
yet) and have read through all the pattern info, looked at closely etc. It is a
beautiful gown! One day I'll make it, I can jst see it as a stunning wedding
gown indeed. Highly recommendable pattern from what I ahve seen and also from
what I have read on the GBCGA Graet Pattern review.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Aug  1 06:20:21 2002
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] English Civil war patterns from UK Merchant
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Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 10:46:50 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 
> Thanks Teddy for taking the time to look at them and write a
> recommendation :-)

You're welcome.

> Absolutely, they don't BS you, and their glassware is really
> superb, the best I know of and I know pretty much all of the
> glassware traders here in the UK. 

The only glasswear we have at events is the two goblets that 
survived in the post when Karen sent them from Chicago to 
London.  They're beautiful, hold a lot and we figure that surviving 
the tender treatment of the postal services on the journey form the 
US to England means they can cope with being transported to and 
from events in our bottle-carrier.

Any other glass items we've tried using have ended up severely 
broken.
 
> > The 1640 doublet came out a bit small - but I skipped making a
> > fitting mock-up so that could be my problem rather than the pattern.
> 
> I shall not attempt ever to not make  a mock-up, ben is so muscular in
> the shoulders and arms that nothing ever fits anyway.

I was in a real hurry (as I was when I made 1620 - 25 one, but that 
came out fine without a mock-up.  I guess I just must be the right 
size for that one unaltered)
 
> I skipped the cassock because I'll use norah Waugh's one,

I think they're pretty much the same (as is the 1620 to 25 one, I 
think)

> If I make something of it I'll remember to send the info and pic to
> the Great pattern review.

> Hmm.. jus a thought, should I send the info of the Noragh waugh
> coat too? 

I don't see why not


Teddy
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Aug  1 08:40:11 2002
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] English Civil war patterns from UK Merchant
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Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 13:26:50 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote: >  

> The only glasswear we have at events is the two goblets that 
> survived in the post when Karen sent them from Chicago to 
> London. 

> Any other glass items we've tried using have ended up severely 
> broken.

we always take lots and lots of glasware with us. what I do is most of them
have their own individual boxes I purchased them in, and inside they are
wrapped in tissue paper. Those which don't have boxes are thickly wrapped
inside and out. All of the boxed ones and the unboxed ones live and are
transported in sturdy plastic folding boxes. so far, knock on wood, no problems
for yars. (famous last words...)

> I was in a real hurry (as I was when I made 1620 - 25 one, but that 
> came out fine without a mock-up.  I guess I just must be the right 
> size for that one unaltered)

as if you'd ever not be in a hurry dear! *L*

Next small thing to make is an embroidered night cap for ben. i got embroidered
linen fabric (an actual embroidery from ebay, silk on linen) and will cut it up
and make the cap and then adorn the seams with a very lovely narrow gold lace,
from ebay too. :-)
I just finished sewing on the doubled gold brush fringe onto ben's kid leather
gloves. after all, an officer should have those.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Aug  1 09:50:39 2002
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] How to browse archives?
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Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 08:37:07 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Thu, 1 Aug 2002, Jane Williams wrote:

> Well, I'm back from Germany, Austria, and other interesting places,
> have turned mail from this list back on, and now want to browse
> throught he archives for the last two weeks to see what I've missed.
> Only I can't figure out how. I can see a search engine, but without
> knowing what topics to search for, it isn't going to help me. No
> Browse facility, as far as I can see. There's the opportunity to
> download a complete year's worth of info, which would do, but 2002
> isn't one of the years on offer. Help?

The database isn't set up to browse. (Another item for the wish list if
someone capable wants to make "better archives" a project.) However, you
can do a reasonable job of it with a little ingenuity.

Eric has the posts set up by month. If you search for a specific post,
you'll see, in your search results, that each post has a link under the
subject name, a link for the author name, and an "archive" to click on
that says something like "hcos01/hcos02.cl". Click that last, and you'll
get a whole month's worth. (And it can take some time to download!)

I post frequently and save a lot of my posts, so I can pick a subject line
from the desired month, search on that, and call up the right month's
worth of archive.

(2002 is indeed on the pull-down menu of options -- it's near the top.)

Or just call up any month, from any search, and adjust the URL for the
year and month you want. July 2002 will be here:

http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion/archives/hcos02/hcos07.cl

But it's not there yet! The annoyance of this system is that you have to
wait till a month is completed before you can browse it, or before you can
read any of the posts from that month. You are lucky, in that the July
posts should be up any minute now. (I don't know if Eric does these
automatically or manually.) But if it's mid-month, and you want to see
last week's posts, you'll have to wait.

We really really need a standard searchable, browseable, dated, unedited
archive. Surely with all the computer expertise on this list, there's
someone who has the space, and someone who has the ability? The files do
exist -- I've heard from several people who have copies of them. It's
getting them online in a suitable form that's the problem.

--Robin

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Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 15:06:01 BST
Status: RO

Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote :
> Eric has the posts set up by month. If you search for a specific post,
> you'll see, in your search results, that each post has a link under the
> subject name, a link for the author name, and an "archive" to click on
> that says something like "hcos01/hcos02.cl". Click that last, and you'll
> get a whole month's worth. (And it can take some time to download!)

About 3 seconds on this machine, fortunately. (Yes, I was serious about being happy to download the complete year).

> (2002 is indeed on the pull-down menu of options -- it's near the top.)

For searching, yes: I was looking for it in the "complete year" list.
 
>  July 2002 will be here:
> http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion/archives/hcos02/hcos07.cl

Exactly what I needed: thanks. It's not there yet, as you say, but I'm sure I can last a few days. Now you explain the system, it all makes perfect sense.

> But if it's mid-month, and you want to see
> last week's posts, you'll have to wait.

Next time I go on holiday, I think I'll leave this list sending  me messages :(




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From: "Marna Jean" <marnajean@shootingstarhistory.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Reform dress
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Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 09:34:57 -0500
Status: RO

I either missed your post the first time or it was before I joined the list.
Its in my period of study but not my focus, but I might be able to provide a
lead or two- are you looking for a pattern, dress to study, diagram or what?
And how "reform" do you want it. Though I imagine a teagown will be as close
in style to a wedding gown as you will find. Have you seen the one on
www.antiquedress.com - it looks like it could have been made right of a 1893
Butterick teagown pattern.
Marna Jean

Doug and Marna Jean Davis
Shooting Star Enterprises
Living History & Custom Historical Clothing
http://www.shootingstarhistory.com/home.html
 oakley@access-one.com
Alternate email-
oakley@shootingstarhistory.com

Instructor for www.costumeclassroom.com -
 Victorian and Old West Era
Online Classes in History and Period Sewing
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-request@indra.com <h-costume-request@indra.com>
To: h-costume@net.indra.com <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Date: Thursday, August 01, 2002 9:16 AM
Subject: h-costume digest, Vol 1 #1132 - 15 msgs


>Send h-costume mailing list submissions to
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
>To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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>
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>
>When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>than "Re: Contents of h-costume digest..."
>
>
>Today's Topics:
>
>   1. Re: Re: h-costume digest, Vol 1 #1128 - 12 msgs
(kat@grendal.rain.com)
>   2. Re: Re: shirt ties/aiglets; length of fingerloop braids
(kat@grendal.rain.com)
>   3. Wedding dress of the Progressive/Aesthetic period
(Kiloran@worldnet.att.net)
>   4. Re: RE: [h-cost] OT: Dual-Power Singers? (vze2brpf@verizon.net)
>   5. Re: Wedding dress of the Progressive/Aesthetic period (Robin
Netherton)
>   6. RE: Wedding dress of the Progressive/Aesthetic period (Martha Kelly)
>   7. Reform or Aesthetic Dress (Agnes G)
>   8. RE: Manessische Liederhandschrift, was Re: [h-cost] Medieval
cross-dressing? (Wanda Pease)
>   9. Re: RE: [h-cost] OT: Dual-Power Singers? (Margo Anderson)
>  10. How to browse archives? (Jane Williams)
>  11. Re: Reform or Aesthetic Dress (=?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?=)
>  12. Re: English Civil war patterns from UK Merchant (Teddy)
>  13. Re: English Civil war patterns from UK Merchant
(=?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?=)
>  14. Re: How to browse archives? (Robin Netherton)
>  15. Re: How to browse archives? (jane@williams.nildram.co.uk)
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 1
>From: kat@grendal.rain.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 18:31:36 -0700
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume digest, Vol 1 #1128 - 12 msgs
>Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
>
>> >There is also the issue of muscle strength and
>> >concentration on spreading the bows, especially at the
>> >beginning of the braid. If you are maxing out the
>> >length of the loops for one person to manipulate alone
>> >(probably approaching 2 feet), you need to tirelessly
>> >extend your arms out in a "fly" movement (term from
>> >the gym). It's not only important to move the loops
>> >correctly from finger to finger for each step, but to
>> >properly pull on them with steady tension and
>> >spreading. If you don't have someone to beat it down,
>> >you're entirely reliant on the spreading of the loops
>> >after each movement. This can build some serious
>> >muscle!
>> >I find that if I pay careful attention to tension and
>> >spreading the bows/loops, I get a rather
>> >even-tensioned, consistent braid. My posterior
>> >deltoids protest a bit, though. <smile>
>> >
>> >Tasha
>> >
>> Hey!  Costuming as exercise, I like it!  However, I think I would have
>> to find a way of jumping up and down at the same time, or my posterior
>> something else will spread to make up for it :-)
>>
>> Jean
>
>I still remember watching Colleen/Cainder (as her beater) when she
>was doing a really long couple of pieces of fingerloop braid.
>However, it wasn't her deltoids she complained about after. Rather
>it was her leg muscles from the lunges when she would do the
>bow. We figured out that the rhythm which seemed to work best
>was to a Strauss waltz!
>
>
>Kat Russell
><kat@grendal.rain.com>
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 2
>From: kat@grendal.rain.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 18:31:36 -0700
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: shirt ties/aiglets; length of fingerloop braids
>Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
>
>> >Hmmmm. Well, I can testify -- as a sometime other half of Heather's
>> >fingerloop-with-beating team -- that as far as I can tell, you get
>> >very little variation in tension if you have one person braiding
>> >while the person at the other end beats it down tight. I think we've
>> >produced a couple of six-foot-or-so braids, which means we started
>> >out with about eight feet of thread between us. (Better think of
>> >something interesting to talk about, though, 'cause it takes awhile.)
>> >
>> This is, of course, the other problem - once you've started, you can't
>> put it down.  Has anyone found a way of leaving it, hanging it up or
>> pegging it on something?
>>
>> Jean
>
>
>When I was first practicing on fingerloop braiding (before I got faster
>at it), I was in the car as a passenger on the way home from
>Estrella War (a 2 day drive for us, even driving through the first
>night). If we had a stop (which was required and couldn't be
>coordinated with my loops being finished), I carefully pinned them
>to a pillow, then made sure that I picked up the loops the same
>way I put them down. It seemed to work very well. Then later, when
>I started doing really long loops using fine silk thread and couldn't
>wait a minute longer, I did the same. It seemed to work fairly well.
>Of course, I couldn't leave them for very long (like overnight) but
>then, I have 3 very curious string loving cats. ;)
>
>
>Kat Russell
><kat@grendal.rain.com>
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 3
>Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 18:30:52 -0700
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>From: Kiloran@worldnet.att.net
>Subject: [h-cost] Wedding dress of the Progressive/Aesthetic period
>Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
>Um, I posted a question with this same subject header about two weeks ago
>and, well, I never got any replies. Not even one that said "nope, sorry,
>doesn't ring any bells". I'm wondering if it never got posted. If that's
>what happened, or if it got missed somehow, I'll repost it, but I don't
>want to do that if it was seen but basically ignored.
>
>So what do I do now?
>
>By the way, has anyone had any progress with getting the Revolution In
>Fashion book from the Kyoto Costume Institute?
>
>Julie
>
>
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 4
>From: <vze2brpf@verizon.net>
>To: h-costume@indra.com, <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: RE: [h-cost] OT: Dual-Power Singers?
>Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 14:31:06 -0500
>Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
>
>>
>> I believe your aunt's story. I know Bernina still makes treadle machines
>> for sale in "developing" nations. Of course, they are purely mechanical,
>> not computerized machines.
>
>  Singer does still make treadle sewing machines.  They are offered in the
Lohemann's catalog for non-electric living.  They are rather expensive.  My
1916 White was a quarter of the price and has a much nicer cabinet.  Singer
probably is the best way to go however if you intend to use an antique.
Parts are far easier to come by.  (Luckily the Singer belts fit the white!).
>
>Cheers,
>Ron
>
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 5
>Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 20:47:33 -0500 (CDT)
>From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding dress of the Progressive/Aesthetic period
>Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
>
>On Wed, 31 Jul 2002 Kiloran@worldnet.att.net wrote:
>
>> Um, I posted a question with this same subject header about two weeks
>> ago and, well, I never got any replies. Not even one that said "nope,
>> sorry, doesn't ring any bells". I'm wondering if it never got posted.
>> If that's what happened, or if it got missed somehow, I'll repost it,
>> but I don't want to do that if it was seen but basically ignored.
>
>I saw it, but didn't answer because I had no answer. I wouldn't take the
>lack of response personally. I don't generally post a "Sorry, I don't
>know" message to questions that are outside my area, or I'd be filling
>people's mailboxes every day with "Sorry, I don't know." I think people
>would get heartily annoyed with me ;-) If people don't answer, you can bet
>that the ones reading at the time just didn't know. And when that happens,
>I don't think anyone minds if you try again some time later, when maybe
>you get a different mix of readers.
>
>I don't know what your specific question was, but I do know that all I
>know about this fashion movement is what's in Stella Mary Newton's book.
>Perhaps there will be leads for you in there, but I figure anyone
>interested in the Aesthetic movement probably has the obvious sources
>already!
>
>(The period is recent enough that you might find some microfilmed or
>archived fashion magazines in a good library. Or at a place like FIT if
>you're in NYC.)
>
>--Robin
>
>
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 6
>From: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@nyc.rr.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: RE: [h-cost] Wedding dress of the Progressive/Aesthetic period
>Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 22:21:34 -0300
>Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
>
>
>By the way, has anyone had any progress with getting the Revolution In
>Fashion book from the Kyoto Costume Institute?
>
>Julie
>
>
>
>Dear Julie
>
>I ordered the Revolution in Fashion from Kyoto through their web site and
>it's now sitting happily on my shelf.  I was especially pleased to see that
>it's all in English, since my other two Kyoto books are mostly Japanese.
It
>came to me via an expediter in California who billed me and accepted my
>check.  What a lovely book!
>
>Martha
>
>
>
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 7
>Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 19:37:47 -0700
>From: Agnes G <countess11@mac.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Reform or Aesthetic Dress
>Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
>Have you looked at the La Mode Bagatelle Aesthetic Reform Tea Gown Pattern?
>I know some people have used it as a wedding dress.  It's based roughly on
>garments in the V&A and other museums.
>
>
>
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 8
>From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: RE: Manessische Liederhandschrift, was Re: [h-cost] Medieval
cross-dressing?
>Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 23:06:11 -0700
>Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
>The new one seems to have all the plates, 137 or so.  Info:  Codes Manesse:
>Die Miniaturen der Grossen Heidelberger Liederhandschrift
>
>Herausgegeben und erlaeutert von Ingo F. Walther unter Mitarbeit von Gisela
>Siebert Insel
>
>Sechste Auflage 2001 copyright Insel Verlag Frankfurt am Main 1988, Alle
>Rechte vorbehalten, Druck: Aprinta, Wemding Printed in Germany.  I paid $30
>for it when I picked it up from Master Terafan Gredragon while visiting him
>in Stuttgart.
>
>Try this link
>
>http://www.amazon.de/exec/obidos/search-handle-form/ref=sr_sp_go_qs/302-545
3
>223-3768035
>
>The book pictured is the one I have and it is hard bound, and full "book"
>size.
>
>Regina Romsey
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
>Behalf Of leigh tartaglio
>Sent: Monday, July 29, 2002 9:47 PM
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: Manessische Liederhandschrift, was Re: [h-cost] Medieval
>cross-dressing?
>
>
>Hi. I only have the copy printed in 1953, which only has eighteen plates.
If
>the
>new one has more illos, I am interested. Could you post the info, please?
>Mike
>T.
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 9
>Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 23:03:53 -0700
>To: h-costume@indra.com, h-costume@indra.com, <h-costume@indra.com>
>From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
>Subject: Re: RE: [h-cost] OT: Dual-Power Singers?
>Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
>
>>
>>  Singer does still make treadle sewing machines.  They are offered in the
>Lohemann's catalog for non-electric living.  They are rather expensive.
>
>If these are the ones that look just like an antique treadle machine, watch
>out!  I was selling Singers at the time, about ten years ago, that the
>replica" treadle models were being introduced.  My sales manager told me
>that they were being made with the lowest quality parts and engineering, as
>they were aimed at the "country decorating" crowd, with the expectation
>that they would only occasionally be sewn on.
>
>Margo
>"One Tough Costumer"
>
>
>See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 10
>From: "Jane Williams" <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 08:11:22 +0100
>Subject: [h-cost] How to browse archives?
>Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
>Well, I'm back from Germany, Austria, and other
>interesting places, have turned mail from this list
>back on, and now want to browse throught he
>archives for the last two weeks to see what I've
>missed. Only I can't figure out how. I can see a
>search engine, but without knowing what topics to
>search for, it isn't going to help me. No Browse
>facility, as far as I can see. There's the opportunity to
>download a complete year's worth of info, which
>would do, but 2002 isn't one of the years on offer.
>Help?
>
>
>
>
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 11
>Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 08:12:32 +0100 (BST)
>From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Reform or Aesthetic Dress
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
> --- Agnes G <countess11@mac.com> wrote: > Have you looked at the La Mode
>Bagatelle Aesthetic Reform Tea Gown Pattern?
>> I know some people have used it as a wedding dress.  It's based roughly
on
>> garments in the V&A and other museums.
>
>I have the pattern (and no, sadly,  the dress isn't even a twinkle in my
eye
>yet) and have read through all the pattern info, looked at closely etc. It
is a
>beautiful gown! One day I'll make it, I can jst see it as a stunning
wedding
>gown indeed. Highly recommendable pattern from what I ahve seen and also
from
>what I have read on the GBCGA Graet Pattern review.
>
>Nicole
>
>=====
>Nicole Kipar M.A.
>Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
>Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
>URL: http://www.kipar.org/
>Email: marquis@kipar.org
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Everything you'll ever need on one web page
>from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
>http://uk.my.yahoo.com
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 12
>Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 10:46:50 +0000 (GMT)
>From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] English Civil war patterns from UK Merchant
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Organization: Middlesex University
>Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
>
>> Thanks Teddy for taking the time to look at them and write a
>> recommendation :-)
>
>You're welcome.
>
>> Absolutely, they don't BS you, and their glassware is really
>> superb, the best I know of and I know pretty much all of the
>> glassware traders here in the UK.
>
>The only glasswear we have at events is the two goblets that
>survived in the post when Karen sent them from Chicago to
>London.  They're beautiful, hold a lot and we figure that surviving
>the tender treatment of the postal services on the journey form the
>US to England means they can cope with being transported to and
>from events in our bottle-carrier.
>
>Any other glass items we've tried using have ended up severely
>broken.
>
>> > The 1640 doublet came out a bit small - but I skipped making a
>> > fitting mock-up so that could be my problem rather than the pattern.
>>
>> I shall not attempt ever to not make  a mock-up, ben is so muscular in
>> the shoulders and arms that nothing ever fits anyway.
>
>I was in a real hurry (as I was when I made 1620 - 25 one, but that
>came out fine without a mock-up.  I guess I just must be the right
>size for that one unaltered)
>
>> I skipped the cassock because I'll use norah Waugh's one,
>
>I think they're pretty much the same (as is the 1620 to 25 one, I
>think)
>
>> If I make something of it I'll remember to send the info and pic to
>> the Great pattern review.
>
>> Hmm.. jus a thought, should I send the info of the Noragh waugh
>> coat too?
>
>I don't see why not
>
>
>Teddy
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 13
>Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 13:26:50 +0100 (BST)
>From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] English Civil war patterns from UK Merchant
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
> --- Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote: >
>
>> The only glasswear we have at events is the two goblets that
>> survived in the post when Karen sent them from Chicago to
>> London.
>
>> Any other glass items we've tried using have ended up severely
>> broken.
>
>we always take lots and lots of glasware with us. what I do is most of them
>have their own individual boxes I purchased them in, and inside they are
>wrapped in tissue paper. Those which don't have boxes are thickly wrapped
>inside and out. All of the boxed ones and the unboxed ones live and are
>transported in sturdy plastic folding boxes. so far, knock on wood, no
problems
>for yars. (famous last words...)
>
>> I was in a real hurry (as I was when I made 1620 - 25 one, but that
>> came out fine without a mock-up.  I guess I just must be the right
>> size for that one unaltered)
>
>as if you'd ever not be in a hurry dear! *L*
>
>Next small thing to make is an embroidered night cap for ben. i got
embroidered
>linen fabric (an actual embroidery from ebay, silk on linen) and will cut
it up
>and make the cap and then adorn the seams with a very lovely narrow gold
lace,
>from ebay too. :-)
>I just finished sewing on the doubled gold brush fringe onto ben's kid
leather
>gloves. after all, an officer should have those.
>
>Nicole
>
>=====
>Nicole Kipar M.A.
>Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
>Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
>URL: http://www.kipar.org/
>Email: marquis@kipar.org
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Everything you'll ever need on one web page
>from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
>http://uk.my.yahoo.com
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 14
>Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 08:37:07 -0500 (CDT)
>From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] How to browse archives?
>Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
>
>On Thu, 1 Aug 2002, Jane Williams wrote:
>
>> Well, I'm back from Germany, Austria, and other interesting places,
>> have turned mail from this list back on, and now want to browse
>> throught he archives for the last two weeks to see what I've missed.
>> Only I can't figure out how. I can see a search engine, but without
>> knowing what topics to search for, it isn't going to help me. No
>> Browse facility, as far as I can see. There's the opportunity to
>> download a complete year's worth of info, which would do, but 2002
>> isn't one of the years on offer. Help?
>
>The database isn't set up to browse. (Another item for the wish list if
>someone capable wants to make "better archives" a project.) However, you
>can do a reasonable job of it with a little ingenuity.
>
>Eric has the posts set up by month. If you search for a specific post,
>you'll see, in your search results, that each post has a link under the
>subject name, a link for the author name, and an "archive" to click on
>that says something like "hcos01/hcos02.cl". Click that last, and you'll
>get a whole month's worth. (And it can take some time to download!)
>
>I post frequently and save a lot of my posts, so I can pick a subject line
>from the desired month, search on that, and call up the right month's
>worth of archive.
>
>(2002 is indeed on the pull-down menu of options -- it's near the top.)
>
>Or just call up any month, from any search, and adjust the URL for the
>year and month you want. July 2002 will be here:
>
>http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion/archives/hcos02/hcos07.cl
>
>But it's not there yet! The annoyance of this system is that you have to
>wait till a month is completed before you can browse it, or before you can
>read any of the posts from that month. You are lucky, in that the July
>posts should be up any minute now. (I don't know if Eric does these
>automatically or manually.) But if it's mid-month, and you want to see
>last week's posts, you'll have to wait.
>
>We really really need a standard searchable, browseable, dated, unedited
>archive. Surely with all the computer expertise on this list, there's
>someone who has the space, and someone who has the ability? The files do
>exist -- I've heard from several people who have copies of them. It's
>getting them online in a suitable form that's the problem.
>
>--Robin
>
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 15
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] How to browse archives?
>From: <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
>Cc: <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
>Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 15:06:01 BST
>Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
>Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote :
>> Eric has the posts set up by month. If you search for a specific post,
>> you'll see, in your search results, that each post has a link under the
>> subject name, a link for the author name, and an "archive" to click on
>> that says something like "hcos01/hcos02.cl". Click that last, and you'll
>> get a whole month's worth. (And it can take some time to download!)
>
>About 3 seconds on this machine, fortunately. (Yes, I was serious about
being happy to download the complete year).
>
>> (2002 is indeed on the pull-down menu of options -- it's near the top.)
>
>For searching, yes: I was looking for it in the "complete year" list.
>
>>  July 2002 will be here:
>> http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion/archives/hcos02/hcos07.cl
>
>Exactly what I needed: thanks. It's not there yet, as you say, but I'm sure
I can last a few days. Now you explain the system, it all makes perfect
sense.
>
>> But if it's mid-month, and you want to see
>> last week's posts, you'll have to wait.
>
>Next time I go on holiday, I think I'll leave this list sending  me
messages :(
>
>
>
>
>
>
>--__--__--
>
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>
>End of h-costume Digest
>

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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Reform or Aesthetic Dress
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Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 09:46:48 -0500
Status: RO

might this be some help?

http://costume.osu.edu/Reforming_Fashion/image_exhibition/tea2.htm

or for more info

http://www.fashion-era.com/aesthetics.htm

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Agnes G
Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 9:38 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Reform or Aesthetic Dress


Have you looked at the La Mode Bagatelle Aesthetic Reform Tea Gown Pattern?
I know some people have used it as a wedding dress.  It's based roughly on
garments in the V&A and other museums.



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Aug  1 12:35:32 2002
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From: Kiloran@worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re:[h-cost] Wedding dress of the Progressive/Aesthetic period
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Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 09:13:46 -0700
Status: RO

Thanks. Well, I guess from the lack of response that no one has ever seen 
this picture. I know it's an extremely specific request, and it was a 
highly remote chance that anyone =had= ever seen it, but I thought I'd try.

And yes, I've seen the La Mode Bagatelle pattern - it's gorgeous, but not 
what I'm looking for. It's this specific dress that I described in my first 
post that I'm searching for (the picture, that is). I fell inlove with it 
over 20 years ago, but like an idiot didn't buy the book (starving student, 
y'know). I didn't even make a note of the name of the book or author, for 
which stupidity I have no excuse. My sewing skills are so much better now 
than they were then that I'd like to attempt to recreate this dress, but I 
don't want to rely on just my memory.

Robin - I'm not familiar with the book you recommended. Could you give me 
the title? Do you know where I'd find it?

Thanks again,
Julie

>Message: 5
>Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 20:47:33 -0500 (CDT)
>From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding dress of the Progressive/Aesthetic period
>Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
>
>On Wed, 31 Jul 2002 Kiloran@worldnet.att.net wrote:
>
> > Um, I posted a question with this same subject header about two weeks
> > ago and, well, I never got any replies. Not even one that said "nope,
> > sorry, doesn't ring any bells". I'm wondering if it never got posted.
> > If that's what happened, or if it got missed somehow, I'll repost it,
> > but I don't want to do that if it was seen but basically ignored.
>
>I saw it, but didn't answer because I had no answer. I wouldn't take the
>lack of response personally. I don't generally post a "Sorry, I don't
>know" message to questions that are outside my area, or I'd be filling
>people's mailboxes every day with "Sorry, I don't know." I think people
>would get heartily annoyed with me ;-) If people don't answer, you can bet
>that the ones reading at the time just didn't know. And when that happens,
>I don't think anyone minds if you try again some time later, when maybe
>you get a different mix of readers.
>
>I don't know what your specific question was, but I do know that all I
>know about this fashion movement is what's in Stella Mary Newton's book.
>Perhaps there will be leads for you in there, but I figure anyone
>interested in the Aesthetic movement probably has the obvious sources
>already!
>
>(The period is recent enough that you might find some microfilmed or
>archived fashion magazines in a good library. Or at a place like FIT if
>you're in NYC.)
>
>--Robin
>
>
>Message: 7
>Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 19:37:47 -0700
>From: Agnes G <countess11@mac.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Reform or Aesthetic Dress
>Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
>Have you looked at the La Mode Bagatelle Aesthetic Reform Tea Gown Pattern?
>I know some people have used it as a wedding dress.  It's based roughly on
>garments in the V&A and other museums.


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Subject: [h-cost] Revolution In Fashion from Kyoto
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Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 09:16:22 -0700
Status: RO

Yay!! Oh, that's great news! It seemed at first that no one was getting any 
response from the Kyoto museum and I felt really bad like I'd given bad 
information or something, but it looks like things are moving now!

Julie



>Message: 6
>From: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@nyc.rr.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: RE: [h-cost] Wedding dress of the Progressive/Aesthetic period
>Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 22:21:34 -0300
>Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
>
>
>By the way, has anyone had any progress with getting the Revolution In
>Fashion book from the Kyoto Costume Institute?
>
>Julie
>
>
>
>Dear Julie
>
>I ordered the Revolution in Fashion from Kyoto through their web site and
>it's now sitting happily on my shelf.  I was especially pleased to see that
>it's all in English, since my other two Kyoto books are mostly Japanese.  It
>came to me via an expediter in California who billed me and accepted my
>check.  What a lovely book!
>
>Martha


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re:[h-cost] Wedding dress of the Progressive/Aesthetic period
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Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 13:37:29 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Thu, 1 Aug 2002 Kiloran@worldnet.att.net wrote:

> Robin - I'm not familiar with the book you recommended. Could you give
> me the title? Do you know where I'd find it?

I believe it is called "Dress Reformers," by Stella Mary Newton. You might
also look for "Dress Revivals" by Baines (I forget the first name), which
describes the Victorian "historical" costumes, but I don't know whether it
focuses on aesthetic/progressive style on its own. For both, try a good
university library, and then interlibrary loan. Who knows -- maybe one of
these is the book you wanted! I had forgotten the specific question in
your original post, and your repost didn't mention that you were chasing
down a specific picture (as opposed to just wanting information on
aesthetic-style wedding dresses). I gather now that you saw an image
somewhere and can't find it now. Boy, I know that feeling.

--Robin

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Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 13:25:52 -0500
Status: RO

> I didn't even make a note of the name of the book or author, for
> which stupidity I have no excuse. My sewing skills are so much better now
> than they were then that I'd like to attempt to recreate this dress, but I
> don't want to rely on just my memory.


If you rely on your memory the dress will be exactly as you remember it.


Denise
landofoz@netins.net


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Subject: [h-cost] Wedding dress of the Alternative style or
 Progressive/Aesthetic period
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Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 13:41:22 -0700
Status: RO

OK, let me repost the critical part of my original post:

I'm looking for a photo of a wedding dress I saw in a costume book over 20 
years ago. The dress (not the book) was from around 1880 or 1890, and was 
an example of an alternate style of design - one of the revisionist schools 
of design that kept appearing during the 19th century. I =think= it was 
called Progressive, but I'm not sure. It's been suggested that it might  be 
Revisionist or Aesthetic style.

The dress was very simple, loose and flowing from a rather boat-shaped 
gathered neckline, with bell-like sleeves. There was a definite Grecian 
suggestion in the overall design. There was a band of several rows of 
beadwork that circled the neckline, then at the back of the neck the 
beadwork turned and went down either side of the back closure, and at the 
waist turned towards the front and wrapped around somewhat like a medieval 
girdle (only much wider), to pull the dress in at the waist and provide 
some accent and contrast. There were matching rows of beadwork at the ends 
of the sleeves as well. Also maybe at the hem, but I'm not sure

I remember seeing it in a book in the bookstore of the DeYoung Museum in 
San Francisco over 20 years ago. I did not buy the book and I've regretted 
it ever since. And no, I have absolutely no recollection of what that book 
was. If anyone recognizes this description and could help me track down a 
photo of this dress, or the book its in, or another source for the dress 
altogether, I'd be very grateful.
------------------------------------------------------
So you see I'm looking for a very specific dress/picture, not a general style.

Thanks,
Julie


>Message: 1
>From: "Marna Jean" <marnajean@shootingstarhistory.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 09:34:57 -0500
>Subject: [h-cost] Re: Reform dress
>Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
>I either missed your post the first time or it was before I joined the list.
>Its in my period of study but not my focus, but I might be able to provide a
>lead or two- are you looking for a pattern, dress to study, diagram or what?
>And how "reform" do you want it. Though I imagine a teagown will be as close
>in style to a wedding gown as you will find. Have you seen the one on
>www.antiquedress.com - it looks like it could have been made right of a 1893
>Butterick teagown pattern.
>Marna Jean


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Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 13:46:09 -0700
Status: RO

Betsy -

Thank you, but yes, I've been to both those sites and wasn't able to find 
the dress I'm looking for. In addition, I emailed the curator of the 
exhibit at Ohio State University nearly a year ago asking my question, but 
I never received a reply.

Thanks,
Julie


>Message: 2
>From: "Betsy Marshall" <betsy@softwareinnovation.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: RE: [h-cost] Reform or Aesthetic Dress
>Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 09:46:48 -0500
>Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
>might this be some help?
>
>http://costume.osu.edu/Reforming_Fashion/image_exhibition/tea2.htm
>
>or for more info
>
>http://www.fashion-era.com/aesthetics.htm
>
>-----Original Message-----


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From: "Cabbage Rose" <cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Dress seen in DeYoung Cat
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Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 14:02:21 -0700
Status: RO

The De Young museum has a searchable index for almost 85 thousand images.
Have you tried that? If it was at the De Young originally, it may still be
in their collection.  The url is below.

http://www.thinker.org/fam/index_thinker.asp

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com

Theatrical Costume Design
"O! Swear not by the moon, the inconstant moon,
That monthly changes in her circled orb,
Lest that thy love prove likewise variable."
Romeo & Juliet, II, ii - W. Shakespeare


----- Original Message -----
From: <Kiloran@worldnet.att.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 1:46 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume digest, Vol 1 #1133 - 4 msgs


> Betsy -
>
> Thank you, but yes, I've been to both those sites and wasn't able to find
> the dress I'm looking for. In addition, I emailed the curator of the
> exhibit at Ohio State University nearly a year ago asking my question, but
> I never received a reply.
>
> Thanks,
> Julie
>
>
> >Message: 2
> >From: "Betsy Marshall" <betsy@softwareinnovation.com>
> >To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> >Subject: RE: [h-cost] Reform or Aesthetic Dress
> >Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 09:46:48 -0500
> >Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >
> >might this be some help?
> >
> >http://costume.osu.edu/Reforming_Fashion/image_exhibition/tea2.htm
> >
> >or for more info
> >
> >http://www.fashion-era.com/aesthetics.htm
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding dress of the Progressive/Aesthetic period
From: Agnes G <countess11@mac.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 13:58:20 -0700
Status: RO

I don't recall reading your original post.  I just tried to look for it in
the archive but it doesn't show up yet - perhaps you could re-post the dress
description you saw.  I think perhaps we didn't all get your original
message.

> From: Kiloran@worldnet.att.net
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 09:13:46 -0700
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re:[h-cost] Wedding dress of the Progressive/Aesthetic period
> 
> Thanks. Well, I guess from the lack of response that no one has ever seen
> this picture. I know it's an extremely specific request, and it was a
> highly remote chance that anyone =had= ever seen it, but I thought I'd try.
> 
> And yes, I've seen the La Mode Bagatelle pattern - it's gorgeous, but not
> what I'm looking for. It's this specific dress that I described in my first
> post that I'm searching for (the picture, that is). I fell inlove with it
> over 20 years ago, but like an idiot didn't buy the book (starving student,
> y'know). I didn't even make a note of the name of the book or author, for
> which stupidity I have no excuse. My sewing skills are so much better now
> than they were then that I'd like to attempt to recreate this dress, but I
> don't want to rely on just my memory.
> 
> Robin - I'm not familiar with the book you recommended. Could you give me
> the title? Do you know where I'd find it?
> 
> Thanks again,
> Julie
> 
>> Message: 5
>> Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 20:47:33 -0500 (CDT)
>> From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
>> To: h-costume@indra.com
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding dress of the Progressive/Aesthetic period
>> Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> 
>> 
>> On Wed, 31 Jul 2002 Kiloran@worldnet.att.net wrote:
>> 
>>> Um, I posted a question with this same subject header about two weeks
>>> ago and, well, I never got any replies. Not even one that said "nope,
>>> sorry, doesn't ring any bells". I'm wondering if it never got posted.
>>> If that's what happened, or if it got missed somehow, I'll repost it,
>>> but I don't want to do that if it was seen but basically ignored.
>> 
>> I saw it, but didn't answer because I had no answer. I wouldn't take the
>> lack of response personally. I don't generally post a "Sorry, I don't
>> know" message to questions that are outside my area, or I'd be filling
>> people's mailboxes every day with "Sorry, I don't know." I think people
>> would get heartily annoyed with me ;-) If people don't answer, you can bet
>> that the ones reading at the time just didn't know. And when that happens,
>> I don't think anyone minds if you try again some time later, when maybe
>> you get a different mix of readers.
>> 
>> I don't know what your specific question was, but I do know that all I
>> know about this fashion movement is what's in Stella Mary Newton's book.
>> Perhaps there will be leads for you in there, but I figure anyone
>> interested in the Aesthetic movement probably has the obvious sources
>> already!
>> 
>> (The period is recent enough that you might find some microfilmed or
>> archived fashion magazines in a good library. Or at a place like FIT if
>> you're in NYC.)
>> 
>> --Robin
>> 
>> 
>> Message: 7
>> Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 19:37:47 -0700
>> From: Agnes G <countess11@mac.com>
>> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Subject: [h-cost] Reform or Aesthetic Dress
>> Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> 
>> Have you looked at the La Mode Bagatelle Aesthetic Reform Tea Gown Pattern?
>> I know some people have used it as a wedding dress.  It's based roughly on
>> garments in the V&A and other museums.
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Dual-Power Singers?
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Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 17:12:40 EDT
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In a message dated 7/29/02 7:27:49 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
saragrace@earthlink.net writes:


> I've never heard of it, but there are folks out there that collect
> sewing machines.  I bet there is even a history on them lurking around.
> I can't believe that you wouldn't be able to confirm it with Singer.
> 

I have a Singer from the 20's that was able to be a treadle also.  
And yes I can believe that Singer would not be able to identify things 
because I have taken some of the, 4 boxes, of attachments into Singer trying 
to find out what they were or how they worked and was told they have no 
literature on them and no one there could identify them.
One of the pieces I have does pintucks...
I inherited this from my Grandmother, who was a seamstress.  The one I have 
is supposed to be the top of the line when it was made.  It has a beautiful 
inlaid table it is inset in.  
My mother wanted to sell it in the 60's to get a new one and was told by the 
Singer salesman that nothing they has was as well made as this one.
It is great have used it to sew up to 6 layers of velvet and it will also sew 
leather.

Osmondia

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 7/29/02 7:27:49 AM Pacific Daylight Time, saragrace@earthlink.net writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I've never heard of it, but there are folks out there that collect<BR>
sewing machines.&nbsp; I bet there is even a history on them lurking around.<BR>
I can't believe that you wouldn't be able to confirm it with Singer.<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
I have a Singer from the 20's that was able to be a treadle also.&nbsp; <BR>
And yes I can believe that Singer would not be able to identify things because I have taken some of the, 4 boxes, of attachments into Singer trying to find out what they were or how they worked and was told they have no literature on them and no one there could identify them.<BR>
One of the pieces I have does pintucks...<BR>
I inherited this from my Grandmother, who was a seamstress.&nbsp; The one I have is supposed to be the top of the line when it was made.&nbsp; It has a beautiful inlaid table it is inset in.&nbsp; <BR>
My mother wanted to sell it in the 60's to get a new one and was told by the Singer salesman that nothing they has was as well made as this one.<BR>
It is great have used it to sew up to 6 layers of velvet and it will also sew leather.<BR>
<BR>
Osmondia</FONT></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Aug  1 17:38:31 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding dress of the Alternative style or
	Progressive/Aesthetic period
From: Agnes G <countess11@mac.com>
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Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 14:20:02 -0700
Status: RO

I will ask the La Mode Bagatelle folks if either of them remember seeing
that image when they were researching the pattern - Susan Pasco has a pretty
big costume book library and an amazing memory for details like this so she
may have a clue.  I will let you know if I get a response.

In the mean time, to expedite your search, try to check out any library
books you can get on the period - you might try books on Liberty's
department store, too.  They made a lot of the Reform gowns, and there are a
few photo heavy books on the store.

Can you remember if it was a book with mostly photos (like the Revolution in
Fashion book) or if it was mostly text?  That may help any of us who have a
large book collection know which ones to look in.

Between us all we may dig it up for you.
Agnes

> From: Kiloran@worldnet.att.net
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 13:41:22 -0700
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Wedding dress of the Alternative style or
> Progressive/Aesthetic period
> 
> OK, let me repost the critical part of my original post:
> 
> I'm looking for a photo of a wedding dress I saw in a costume book over 20
> years ago. The dress (not the book) was from around 1880 or 1890, and was
> an example of an alternate style of design - one of the revisionist schools
> of design that kept appearing during the 19th century. I =think= it was
> called Progressive, but I'm not sure. It's been suggested that it might  be
> Revisionist or Aesthetic style.
> 
> The dress was very simple, loose and flowing from a rather boat-shaped
> gathered neckline, with bell-like sleeves. There was a definite Grecian
> suggestion in the overall design. There was a band of several rows of
> beadwork that circled the neckline, then at the back of the neck the
> beadwork turned and went down either side of the back closure, and at the
> waist turned towards the front and wrapped around somewhat like a medieval
> girdle (only much wider), to pull the dress in at the waist and provide
> some accent and contrast. There were matching rows of beadwork at the ends
> of the sleeves as well. Also maybe at the hem, but I'm not sure
> 
> I remember seeing it in a book in the bookstore of the DeYoung Museum in
> San Francisco over 20 years ago. I did not buy the book and I've regretted
> it ever since. And no, I have absolutely no recollection of what that book
> was. If anyone recognizes this description and could help me track down a
> photo of this dress, or the book its in, or another source for the dress
> altogether, I'd be very grateful.
> ------------------------------------------------------
> So you see I'm looking for a very specific dress/picture, not a general style.
> 
> Thanks,
> Julie
> 
> 
>> Message: 1
>> From: "Marna Jean" <marnajean@shootingstarhistory.com>
>> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 09:34:57 -0500
>> Subject: [h-cost] Re: Reform dress
>> Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> 
>> I either missed your post the first time or it was before I joined the list.
>> Its in my period of study but not my focus, but I might be able to provide a
>> lead or two- are you looking for a pattern, dress to study, diagram or what?
>> And how "reform" do you want it. Though I imagine a teagown will be as close
>> in style to a wedding gown as you will find. Have you seen the one on
>> www.antiquedress.com - it looks like it could have been made right of a 1893
>> Butterick teagown pattern.
>> Marna Jean
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Dual-Power Singers?
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Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 19:59:47 -0400
Status: RO

	Find a quilt shop, and buy (or cheat and read it
there) the book on Singer Featherweights.  In
there is a reprint of the direction booklet for
using all the attachments, complete with pictures.
It's a smallish book.  If you don't have a store,
you can get it from a catalog or online,
particularly from a company that specializes in
quilt fabrics.  There are ads in the back of
sewing magazines too, of course.

Diane S.----southwest NYS
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
I have a Singer from the 20's that was able to be
a treadle also.  
And yes I can believe that Singer would not be
able to identify things because I have taken some
of the,
4 boxes, of attachments into Singer trying to find
out what they were or how they worked and was told
they have no literature on them and no one there
could identify them.
One of the pieces I have does pintucks...
I inherited this from my Grandmother, who was a
seamstress.  The one I have is supposed to be the
top
of the line when it was made.  It has a beautiful
inlaid table it is inset in.  
My mother wanted to sell it in the 60's to get a
new one and was told by the Singer salesman that
nothing they has was as well made as this one.
It is great have used it to sew up to 6 layers of
velvet and it will also sew leather.
_______________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 21:21:20 -0400
Status: RO

Just wanted to let those in the Washington, DC/Northern VA area know 
that the G Street Fabrics at Potomac Mills Mall in Woodbridge, VA  
opened today.  They're in part of the former Ikea location and appear to 
have everything the rest of the stores do, despite being in an outlet 
mall.

--jen, who is beginning to fear for her bank account

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Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 18:44:10 -0700
Status: RO

Thanks, Melanie, for the info.  I haven't had the time to check out the 
stores yet.  Hope to do that this weekend.

Roscelin

Melanie Unruh-Bays wrote:

>I found lino blocks at a school-supply store this past weekend. If you can't get them at an art supply store, you might try there. They had a complete selection of supplies - handles, blades, brayers, and ink. After this fabric printing discussion, I was pretty happy to find them. I'm ready to experiment!
>
>Melanie
>


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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] English Civil war patterns from UK Merchant
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Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 10:48:41 +0000 (GMT)
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> we always take lots and lots of glasware with us. what I do is
> most of them have their own individual boxes I purchased them in,
> and inside they are wrapped in tissue paper. Those which don't have
> boxes are thickly wrapped inside and out. All of the boxed ones and
> the unboxed ones live and are transported in sturdy plastic folding
> boxes. so far, knock on wood, no problems for yars. (famous last
> words...) 

You obvioulsy don't have the famous Teddy Ability of pulling 
something *like a cloak or long robe) from the back of the car when 
you reach an event only to find that it has wound itself around 3 
jugs and any piece of glasswear it can and immediately whips 
them out of the car and onto the ground at great speed.

The first time it was a shock, the second it seemed like bad luck, 
after the third time it was taken to be a Sign....
 
> > I was in a real hurry (as I was when I made 1620 - 25 one, but that
> > came out fine without a mock-up.  I guess I just must be the right
> > size for that one unaltered)
> 
> as if you'd ever not be in a hurry dear! *L*

Guilty as charged, Your Honor.

> Next small thing to make is an embroidered night cap for ben. i
> got embroidered linen fabric (an actual embroidery from ebay, silk
> on linen) and will cut it up and make the cap and then adorn the
> seams with a very lovely narrow gold lace, from ebay too. :-) I
> just finished sewing on the doubled gold brush fringe onto ben's
> kid leather gloves. after all, an officer should have those. 

Well, if I don't spot you in the crowd at Kirby, I can always follow 
Ben around until I see you.



Teddy
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>I either missed your post the first time or it was before I joined the list.
>Its in my period of study but not my focus, but I might be able to provide a
>lead or two- are you looking for a pattern, dress to study, diagram or what?

I must also have missed the original posting, (although I admit that when v. busy I do scan-read digests).
But as I can't find any repetition anywhere of what you're actually looking for, am now completely confused!  The wedding dress bit I get, and that you saw it in a book years ago, but are now trying to find a picture, I get, but what did it look like?  
Debbie.




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<P>&nbsp;<BR><BR>&gt;I either missed your post the first time or it was before I joined the list.<BR>&gt;Its in my period of study but not my focus, but I might be able to provide a<BR>&gt;lead or two- are you looking for a pattern, dress to study, diagram or what?<BR>
<P>I must also have missed the original posting, (although I admit that when v. busy I do scan-read digests).
<P>But as I can't find any repetition anywhere of what you're actually looking for, am now completely confused!&nbsp; The wedding dress bit I get, and that you saw it in a book years ago, but are now trying to find a picture, I get, but what did it look like?&nbsp; 
<P>Debbie.</P><p><p><br><hr size=1><a href="http://uk.yahoo.com/mail/tagline_xtra/?http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html"><b><font face="Arial" size="2">Get a bigger mailbox -- choose a size that fits your needs.</font></b></a><br><br><a href="http://uk.yahoo.com/mail/tagline_xtra/?http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html"><font face="Arial" size="2">http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html</font></a>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Aug  2 06:40:42 2002
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] English Civil war patterns from UK Merchant
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Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 11:12:34 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote: >  

> You obvioulsy don't have the famous Teddy Ability of pulling 
> something *like a cloak or long robe) from the back of the car when 
> you reach an event only to find that it has wound itself around 3 
> jugs and any piece of glasswear it can and immediately whips 
> them out of the car and onto the ground at great speed.

Oh no! That sounds terrible. It helps though when you go with a van fileld with
the furniture and tents and a car(cars) filled with the soft kit.

> The first time it was a shock, the second it seemed like bad luck, 
> after the third time it was taken to be a Sign....

*nods gravely* you are so right....

re patterns, I have Margo's pattern (of course, I love patterns, even if I
don't necessarily use them *G*) and just discovered that her partlet pattern is
still perfectly useable for 1660s working class/peasants, and her caul is
lovely with some alterations to the band, as well as the round puch, I have
paintings which show aslate as the 1660s the pouch being used by Dutch
housewifes. Thanks Margo! :-)

> Well, if I don't spot you in the crowd at Kirby, I can always follow 
> Ben around until I see you.

Oh indeed, you can spot him miles away, he is so silver and glowing scarlet
*LOL*

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Vintage and Antique Sewing Machine and Attachment Information
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Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 10:17:59 -0400
Status: RO

The link below is for the On-line Antique Sewing Machine Resource website
which has links and information on various brands of sewing machines.  The
gentleman who created this page is a recognized authority and author on old
sewing machines.

http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Plains/3081/#general

ISMACS, the International Sewing Machine Collectors Society has a wonderful
web site, the link is below.  They have a page which has pictures of sewing
machine attachments and how to use them.

http://www.ismacs.net/index.html

To purchase sewing machine operating, service manuals, and attachment
instructions, you might like to view the following link.

http://www.sew2go.com/manual.htm

No affiliation with anyone, only a collector and admirer of old sewing
machines.

Connie E. Fairchild 
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From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
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Subject: FW: [h-cost] Authenticity of Lucets
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My Baroness has been doing lucet for years.  Here is a brief note from
her.  Anne
-----Original Message-----
From: Rowanwald Central [mailto:rowanwald@sybercom.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 5:35 AM
To: ladyanne@quik.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Authenticity of Lucets


There's some bone lucets featured on a webpage maintained by Gunnora.
They were found in a 6th century Viking settlement on the northern coast
of Scotland. Beyond that, there's no evidence that I am aware of until
the 17th century - the Williamsburg museum has two sweet bags
embroidered in tent stitch with lucetted cords. Thosee bags are date
"1600" and "1600-50".
 
Rosine
Nobility depends not on parentage or place of birth,
but on breadth of compassion and depth of loving-kindness.
If we would be noble, let us be great-hearted.
rowanwald@sybercom.net

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Anne Moeller <mailto:ladyanne@quik.com>  
To: rowanwald@sybercom.net 
Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 12:26 AM
Subject: FW: [h-cost] Authenticity of Lucets

Do you have any comments, information or documentation about when and
where lucets were used?  Anne
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of freyalyn
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2002 4:11 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Authenticity of Lucets


>From my sources, I understand lucets to have been used to make ties and
laces for all sorts of things from the Tenth century right up until the
Nineteenth century. It was one of those crafts that disappeared without
trace as soon as industrialisation started to produce cords and laces
quickly and cheaply. _As far as I'm aware_, it's period for everything.

Freyalyn, pretty certain but prepared to listen to a good argument.....


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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D210302214-02082002>My=20
Baroness has been doing lucet for years.&nbsp; Here is a brief note from =

her.&nbsp; Anne</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader lang=3Den-us dir=3Dltr =
align=3Dleft><FONT face=3DTahoma=20
size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> Rowanwald Central=20
[mailto:rowanwald@sybercom.net] <BR><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, July 31, =
2002 5:35=20
AM<BR><B>To:</B> ladyanne@quik.com<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: [h-cost] =
Authenticity=20
of Lucets<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>There's some bone lucets featured on a webpage =
maintained by=20
Gunnora. They were found in a 6th century Viking settlement on the =
northern=20
coast of Scotland. Beyond that, there's no evidence that I am aware of =
until the=20
17th century - the Williamsburg museum has two sweet bags embroidered in =
tent=20
stitch with lucetted cords. Thosee bags are date "1600" and=20
"1600-50".</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Rosine</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>Nobility depends not on parentage or place of birth,<BR>but on =
breadth of=20
compassion and depth of loving-kindness.<BR>If we would be noble, let us =
be=20
great-hearted.<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:rowanwald@sybercom.net">rowanwald@sybercom.net</A></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Dladyanne@quik.com href=3D"mailto:ladyanne@quik.com">Anne =
Moeller</A>=20
  </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Drowanwald@sybercom.net=20
  href=3D"mailto:rowanwald@sybercom.net">rowanwald@sybercom.net</A> =
</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, July 31, 2002 =
12:26=20
  AM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> FW: [h-cost] =
Authenticity of=20
  Lucets</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D490422404-31072002>Do=20
  you have any comments, information or documentation about when and =
where=20
  lucets were used?&nbsp; Anne</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader lang=3Den-us dir=3Dltr =
align=3Dleft><FONT=20
  face=3DTahoma size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> <A=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com">h-costume-admin@indra.com</A>=20
  [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] <B>On Behalf Of=20
  </B>freyalyn<BR><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, July 30, 2002 4:11 =
AM<BR><B>To:</B> <A=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A><BR><B>Subject=
:</B>=20
  [h-cost] Authenticity of Lucets<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>From my sources, I =

  understand lucets to have been used to make ties and laces for all =
sorts of=20
  things from the Tenth century right up until the Nineteenth century. =
It was=20
  one of those crafts that disappeared without trace as soon as=20
  industrialisation started to produce cords and laces quickly and =
cheaply. _As=20
  far as I'm aware_, it's period for everything.<BR><BR>Freyalyn, pretty =
certain=20
  but prepared to listen to a good argument.....<BR><BR><BR><FONT=20
  style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 13px" face=3D"Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"=20
  =
size=3D2>_______________________________________________________________<=
BR>Sign=20
  up for <A href=3D"http://s.ivillage.com/rd/16705">FREE iVillage=20
  newsletters</A>.<BR>From health and pregnancy to shopping and =
relationships,=20
  iVillage<BR>has the scoop on what matters most to you. </FONT><BR><BR>
  <HR noShade SIZE=3D1>
  <A =
href=3D"http://www.swifttouch.com/SwiftCardJump.asp?SwiftLink=3DUM7S63L07=
DHYD"=20
  target=3D_blank><IMG=20
  title=3D"Save this SwiftCard and you'll always have up-to-date contact =
information."=20
  alt=3D"Compu-Zoo of Virginia Beach, =
Inc...&#13;&#10;President..&#13;&#10;fax =
757-463-5904..&#13;&#10;compuzoo@quik.com..&#13;&#10;Gary F. =
Moeller..&#13;&#10;tel 757-463-5607..&#13;&#10;845 Chimney Hill Shopping =
CenterVirginia Beach, VA 23452-3049..&#13;&#10;..&#13;&#10;"=20
  =
src=3D"http://MY.BUSINESS.CARD.swifttouch.com/cards/users/UM7S63L07DHYD.j=
pg"=20
  border=3D0 NOSEND=3D"1"><BR><FONT face=3DArial size=3D0><IMG=20
  title=3D"Click on my SwiftCard and never lose contact."=20
  =
src=3D"http://MY.BUSINESS.CARD.swifttouch.com/cards/taglines/tagline.gif"=
=20
  border=3D0 NOSEND=3D"1"></FONT></A> =
</BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML><html><body><hr noshade size=3D1><a =
href=3D"http://www.swifttouch.com/SwiftCardJump.asp?SwiftLink=3DUM7S63L07=
DHYD" target=3D'_blank'><img border=3D"0" =
src=3D"http://MY.BUSINESS.CARD.swifttouch.com/cards/users/UM7S63L07DHYD.j=
pg" title=3D"Save this SwiftCard and you'll always have up-to-date =
contact information." alt=3D"Compu-Zoo of Virginia Beach, =
Inc...&#13;&#10;President..&#13;&#10;fax =
757-463-5904..&#13;&#10;compuzoo@quik.com..&#13;&#10;Gary F. =
Moeller..&#13;&#10;tel 757-463-5607..&#13;&#10;845 Chimney Hill Shopping =
CenterVirginia Beach, VA 23452-3049..&#13;&#10;..&#13;&#10;"><br><font =
size=3D"0" face=3D"Arial"><img border=3D'0' =
src=3D'http://MY.BUSINESS.CARD.swifttouch.com/cards/taglines/tagline.gif'=
 title=3D'Click on my SwiftCard and never lose =
contact.'></font></a></body></html>

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Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 08:33:07 -0600
Status: RO

Are all Teddy Abilities famous? <g>
--Sue

Teddy wrote:
>  
> You obvioulsy don't have the famous Teddy Ability of pulling
> something *like a cloak or long robe) from the back of the car when
> you reach an event only to find that it has wound itself around 3
> jugs and any piece of glasswear it can and immediately whips
> them out of the car and onto the ground at great speed.
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: FW: [h-cost] Authenticity of Lucets
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 15:41:26 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Anne Moeller <ladyanne@quik.com> wrote: >
> There's some bone lucets featured on a webpage maintained by Gunnora.
> They were found in a 6th century Viking settlement on the northern coast
> of Scotland. Beyond that, there's no evidence that I am aware of until
> the 17th century - the Williamsburg museum has two sweet bags
> embroidered in tent stitch with lucetted cords. Thosee bags are date
> "1600" and "1600-50".

Excuse my confusion, but why would the Williamsburg museum of all places
(aren't they 18th century?) have items from 1600 or 1650. I would like to see
the bags to verify their dates, I would also like to know who decided it is
lucetted cord. Also, it is interesting that a place in the colonies appears to
be the only one with lucetted cords found for the period, while i have not
heard of any on the motherland.
I'm just always dubious about everything until i am as sure and certain as i
can possibly be.
Also.. if there is one place with a couple of cords,and that in the colonies,
how widespread would one think the method is then anywhere else?
;-)

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: FW: [h-cost] Authenticity of Lucets
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Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 11:13:49 -0400
Status: RO

At 03:41 PM 8/2/02 +0100, you wrote:
> --- Anne Moeller <ladyanne@quik.com> wrote: >
>> There's some bone lucets featured on a webpage maintained by Gunnora.
>> They were found in a 6th century Viking settlement on the northern coast
>> of Scotland. Beyond that, there's no evidence that I am aware of until
>> the 17th century - the Williamsburg museum has two sweet bags
>> embroidered in tent stitch with lucetted cords. Thosee bags are date
>> "1600" and "1600-50".
>
>Excuse my confusion, but why would the Williamsburg museum of all places
>(aren't they 18th century?) have items from 1600 or 1650. I would like to see
>the bags to verify their dates, I would also like to know who decided it is
>lucetted cord. Also, it is interesting that a place in the colonies appears to
>be the only one with lucetted cords found for the period, while i have not
>heard of any on the motherland.
>I'm just always dubious about everything until i am as sure and certain as i
>can possibly be.
>Also.. if there is one place with a couple of cords,and that in the colonies,
>how widespread would one think the method is then anywhere else?
>;-)
>
>Nicole
> 

        Just one little follow up.  If the one bag really dates from 1600,
then it was not made in a British Colony.  By then Roanoke was gone, and
Jamestowne was still another 7 years off.

Cheers,

Ron
Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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To: h-costume@indra.com, h-costume@indra.com
From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding dress of the Alternative style or
  Progressive/Aesthetic period
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Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 09:08:31 -0700
Status: RO

At 01:41 PM 08/01/2002 -0700, Kiloran@worldnet.att.net wrote:
>OK, let me repost the critical part of my original post:
>
>I'm looking for a photo of a wedding dress I saw in a costume book over 20 
>years ago. The dress (not the book) was from around 1880 or 1890, and was 
>an example of an alternate style of design - one of the revisionist schools 
>of design that kept appearing during the 19th century. I =think= it was 
>called Progressive, but I'm not sure. It's been suggested that it might  be 
>Revisionist or Aesthetic style.
>
>The dress was very simple, loose and flowing from a rather boat-shaped 
>gathered neckline, with bell-like sleeves. There was a definite Grecian 
>suggestion in the overall design. There was a band of several rows of 
>beadwork that circled the neckline, then at the back of the neck the 
>beadwork turned and went down either side of the back closure, and at the 
>waist turned towards the front and wrapped around somewhat like a medieval 
>girdle (only much wider), to pull the dress in at the waist and provide 
>some accent and contrast. There were matching rows of beadwork at the ends 
>of the sleeves as well. Also maybe at the hem, but I'm not sure
>

Was the dress pleated in tiny pleats?  Because the beadwork edging sounds
like Fortuny.  You might try looking at some of his work.

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: FW: [h-cost] Authenticity of Lucets
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Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 17:36:55 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net> wrote: > 
>         Just one little follow up.  If the one bag really dates from 1600,
> then it was not made in a British Colony.  By then Roanoke was gone, and
> Jamestowne was still another 7 years off.

Thanks ever so much Ron, my knowledge of the history of the colonies is quite
abysmal *blush* I should get around these days to check the dates of settlments
in the 17th c.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: [h-cost] Re:Wedding dress of the Progressive/Aesthetic period
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Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 10:14:44 -0700
Status: RO

OK, I see I need to add some more detail to my first post.

I saw the picture in a book in the DeYoung book store. It wasn't a catalog 
or part of an exhibition at the museum, just a book off the shelf in the 
store. I can even remember the book a little, although it's somewhat vague. 
It was a large book, about the size of the Dover edition of Cunnington. I 
want to say it was a Dover book, but I'm not sure. Also, I'm almost 
positive the dress/picture was American, I think from New York, and not 
European.

It was also a general costume book, and covered at least the 19th century, 
if not more. My interest at that time was specifically Regency, and I 
wouldn't have even taken a book off the shelf to look at if it didn't 
appear to include the Regency, from the title. The text was in two columns 
per page, and the picture I'm looking for was on a right-hand page, at the 
bottom of the right side column. I even think the page number was in the 
high 200's, but I may just be projecting wishful thinking, remembering that 
much detail. The book was more text than pictures, and all the pictures 
were in black and white (I think). I =think= it was a soft-cover book, 
which is why I think it might have been a Dover book. But the thing is, I 
have a pretty extensive collection of costume books, and I've got pretty 
much every Dover book on the subject, as well as all the standard, 
familiar, must-have texts (Waugh, Cunnington, Boucher, Laver, Bradfield, 
Yarwood, Payne, Norris, Davenport, Arnold, etc).

To be honest, my collection is more extensive than most of the libraries 
around here (and I live in Los Angeles), although I haven't been in the 
UCLA library since I was a student there about 25 years ago. I know I 
should check that out (but if anyone is familiar with parking and 
navigating the UCLA campus, you'll understand my procrastination <g>). I 
will, however, check their catalog for the books mentioned here, on the 
Reform movement and such.

The depressing thing is, I won't recognise the book even when I see it, so 
I can't just page through a catalog looking for a title to jump out at me. 
I have to go through the likely books and hope I see the picture.

I realize this is probably a wild goose chase, but thanks everyone for your 
help.
Julie




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From: Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: FW: [h-cost] Authenticity of Lucets
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Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 14:08:10 -0400
Status: RO

Funny, my follow up went through, but the original post bounced.  Here it is
again.


Ron,

>> --- Anne Moeller <ladyanne@quik.com> wrote: >
>>> There's some bone lucets featured on a webpage maintained by Gunnora.
>>> They were found in a 6th century Viking settlement on the northern coast
>>> of Scotland. Beyond that, there's no evidence that I am aware of until
>>> the 17th century - the Williamsburg museum has two sweet bags
>>> embroidered in tent stitch with lucetted cords. Thosee bags are date
>>> "1600" and "1600-50".
>>
>>Excuse my confusion, but why would the Williamsburg museum of all places
>>(aren't they 18th century?) have items from 1600 or 1650. I would like to see
>>the bags to verify their dates, I would also like to know who decided it is
>>lucetted cord. Also, it is interesting that a place in the colonies appears to
>>be the only one with lucetted cords found for the period, while i have not
>>heard of any on the motherland.
>>I'm just always dubious about everything until i am as sure and certain as i
>>can possibly be.
>>Also.. if there is one place with a couple of cords,and that in the colonies,
>>how widespread would one think the method is then anywhere else?
>>;-)
>>
>>Nicole
>
>  I suspect that by "Williamsburg Museum" what was meant was the "DeWitt
Wallace Museum of Decorative Arts".  This museum will display parts of our
textile collection on a rotating basis.  I imagine that these bags were part
of the needlework exhibit a few years back.
>
>        This historic area's period of interest is without a doubt the
third quarter of the 18th Century, but the collection is far more inclusive
than that.  In fact we own a portrait of Queen Elizabeth that was taken from
life.  I am not familiar with these bags, and agree that the cord might not
be lucet work, but being in the colonies means nothing.  The Dewitt was
originally created to house the incredible antiques that used to be
displayed in the Goveronor's Palace.  Left over from a time when splendor
was far more important the historical accuracy.  Most of these items were
NOT in the colonies untill Rockefeller sent his buyers searching for them in
the 1920s and 30s.  Again, I am not familiar with thes bags, and do not know
there provenance, but I would not be at all surprised if they are NOT
Colonial.  Best bet would be to contact Linda Baumgarten, curator of
Textiles for the Colonial Williamsburg Foundation.
>
>Ron Carnegie
>Managing Interpret of Historic Productions
>Colonial Williamsburg Foundation
>
Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: FW: [h-cost] Authenticity of Lucets
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Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 20:44:32 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net> wrote: > 

> >        This historic area's period of interest is without a doubt the
> third quarter of the 18th Century, but the collection is far more inclusive
> than that.  In fact we own a portrait of Queen Elizabeth that was taken from
> life. 

Interesting, I admit that I have not much interest in the colonies thus I did
not know that the collection goes beyond the 18th century.

 I am not familiar with these bags, and agree that the cord might not
> be lucet work, but being in the colonies means nothing. 

Again, interesting to know that indeed it is very important to be always
dubious. There was no explanation in the original post where the bags
originated from, thus it had to be assumed their providence was from the actual
place where the museum is situated. 

 The Dewitt was
> originally created to house the incredible antiques that used to be
> displayed in the Goveronor's Palace.  Left over from a time when splendor
> was far more important the historical accuracy.  Most of these items were
> NOT in the colonies untill Rockefeller sent his buyers searching for them in
> the 1920s and 30s.

Ah, I see, so it is the same as the two mantuas that were taken from their
place of origin and bought into the US. And actually the same as the Elgian
marbles or  the Egyptian collection in the British Museum or the Mesopotamian
antiquities in the Berlin museum. Money brings the items to wherever the money
is, that's life.

  Again, I am not familiar with thes bags, and do not know
> there provenance, but I would not be at all surprised if they are NOT
> Colonial.  Best bet would be to contact Linda Baumgarten, curator of
> Textiles for the Colonial Williamsburg Foundation.

Thank you for the tip, I won't do it, because it isn't even within my period of
research, and thus I can't be bothered because I don't have time at all, but it
is very useful to know, just in case.

Thanks ever so much
Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 12:48:49 -0700
Status: RO

<snip>
> To be honest, my collection is more extensive than most of the libraries
> around here (and I live in Los Angeles), although I haven't been in the
> UCLA library since I was a student there about 25 years ago. I know I
> should check that out (but if anyone is familiar with parking and
> navigating the UCLA campus, you'll understand my procrastination <g>). I
> will, however, check their catalog for the books mentioned here, on the
> Reform movement and such.

<snip>

Julie, if you do get inspired to hit a local LA library, LACMA has a great
costume/fashion research library.

I'll take a troll through my bookshelf and see if I can find anything.

- Kendra



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From: Elizabeth Hanes Perry <betsy.perry@oracle.com>
Subject: Re: FW: [h-cost] Authenticity of Lucets
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Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 13:01:30 -0700
Status: RO

At 08:44 PM 8/2/2002 +0100, you wrote:

> > was far more important the historical accuracy.  Most of these items were
> > NOT in the colonies untill Rockefeller sent his buyers searching for 
> them in
> > the 1920s and 30s.
>
>Ah, I see, so it is the same as the two mantuas that were taken from their
>place of origin and bought into the US.

Fair enough.

>And actually the same as the Elgian
>marbles or  the Egyptian collection in the British Museum or the Mesopotamian
>antiquities in the Berlin museum.

Not really.  The Elgin marbles can cause a flamewar in themselves, but the 
point is that Lord Elgin didn't make any attempt to determine the 
owners.   Same with many pieces of ancient art in the colonial era -- 
adventurers simply grabbed them and ran.

Nobody stole the Unicorn tapestries that now hang in the Cloisters 
museum.  Buying an object of art and moving it is no different morally if 
you're moving it from Sussex to Kent or from Sussex to America.  I'm sure 
that some fine examples of Tiffany glass and Revere silver are in Europe or 
Japan now.  That wasn't theft, either.  There's no moral law saying that 
beautiful objects must stay in the place they were made.



Be well, do good work, and keep in touch.  - G. Keillor
Betsy Hanes Perry  betsy.perry@oracle.com

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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
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Subject: RE: Manessische Liederhandschrift, was Re: [h-cost] Medieval cross-dressing?
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Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 14:12:53 -0700
Status: RO

More information on the figure in the Manesse, number 135.

I asked Master Klement St. Christoph to do an "on the fly" translation of
the German information about the picture, and here is basically what he
said:

The picture depicts a person with the last name "Boppe" (the most recent
Queen of Drachenwald was mundanely Christina Boppe - a piece of trivia only
offered to show that it is still used as a last name in Germany)

	Basically there was a poet named Boppe of Swiss extraction at one of the
local courts.  He seems to have been something like a court poet.  He was
entered into the Meistersinger tradition even though he was not a
"wandering" minstrel.

	One of his greatest claims to fame was that he was very large, and very
strong, thus the depiction of him in the portrait as Sampson (The figure in
yellow with the long hair and beard.  Obviously pre-Delilah barbering.

     The object he has in his hands is a horseshoe!  He has bent it nearly
straight to demonstrate his strength.  He is stooped over to keep him from
towering over the two knights (the ones leaning on their swords).  After
all, he is only a poet.

Regina Romsey


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From: "Jeanne Harney" <jeanne@parrotfantasy.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] New Singer Treadles
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Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 17:14:24 -0400
Status: RO

The ones at Lehman's are supposed to be quite functional, as Lehman's is in
the heart of Amish country, catering to Amish families.  I like their
electric machines converted to treadle...would like to have the one that
does buttonholes and such.  You can see their stuff at
http://www.lehmans.com though the concept of an Amish store on the 'net is
kind of funny.

Jeanne - who doesn't live all that far from there
A headon collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart.


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Subject: [h-cost] Forehead Clothes in the Seventeenth Century
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Hello everyone,

May I quickly introduce myself as a new subscriber?  I'm a  UK 17th =
Century re-enactor (civilian)who is passionate about creating clothing =
that's as near to being an accurate a facsimile as possible.  I've got =
two children (one 8 and one 5 months) and so my life is always busy!

I wonder if someone could help with a couple of queries?  Does anyone =
know whether forehead cloths were de rigeur for both indoor and outdoor =
use, both children as well as babies (babies I know about) and pervaded =
all levels of the social strata?  I know it's asking a lot, but any help =
is appreciated.

Thanks

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size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4>May I =
quickly introduce=20
myself as a new subscriber?&nbsp; I'm a&nbsp; UK 17th Century re-enactor =

(civilian)who is passionate about creating clothing that's as near to =
being an=20
accurate a facsimile as possible.&nbsp; I've got two children (one 8 and =
one 5=20
months) and so my life is always busy!</FONT></EM></DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Comic Sans MS"=20
size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4>I wonder =
if someone=20
could help with a couple of queries?&nbsp; Does anyone know whether =
forehead=20
cloths were de rigeur for both indoor and outdoor use, both children as =
well as=20
babies (babies I know about) and pervaded all levels of the social =
strata?&nbsp;=20
I know it's asking a lot, but any help is appreciated.</FONT></EM></DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Comic Sans MS"=20
size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Comic Sans MS"=20
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Subject: Re: RE: [h-cost] OT: Dual-Power Singers?
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> 
> From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
> Date: 2002/08/01 Thu AM 01:03:53 CDT
> To: h-costume@indra.com,  h-costume@indra.com,  <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: RE: [h-cost] OT: Dual-Power Singers?
> 
> 
> >
> >  Singer does still make treadle sewing machines.  They are offered in the
> Lohemann's catalog for non-electric living.  They are rather expensive. 
> 
> If these are the ones that look just like an antique treadle machine, watch
> out!  I was selling Singers at the time, about ten years ago, that the
> replica" treadle models were being introduced.  My sales manager told me
> that they were being made with the lowest quality parts and engineering, as
> they were aimed at the "country decorating" crowd, with the expectation
> that they would only occasionally be sewn on. 
> 
    I suspect that this is not the same model.  Besides being very expensive (more than the cost of an antique treadle) it is advertised in the Loehman's catalog. (It also has been offered in the catalog for longer than ten years).This catalog is intended for the Non-electric lifestyle.  The stuff has to do the job, not just look cute and quaint.  In fact most of there stuff is NOT very attractive, and practicality is the watchword.

   Much of the stuff in this catalog is still made because of the third world.

Cheers,
Ron

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Subject: [h-cost] Forehead cloths in the 17th Century
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Hello everyone,
=20
May I quickly introduce myself as a new subscriber?  I'm a  UK 17th =
Century re-enactor (civilian)who is passionate about creating clothing =
that's as near to being an accurate a facsimile as possible.  I've got =
two children (one 8 and one 5 months) and so my life is always busy!
=20
I wonder if someone could help with a couple of queries?  Does anyone =
know whether forehead cloths were de rigeur for both indoor and outdoor =
use, both children as well as babies (babies I know about) and pervaded =
all levels of the social strata?  I know it's asking a lot, but any help =
is appreciated.
=20
Thanks

Helen

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size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4>May I =
quickly introduce=20
myself as a new subscriber?&nbsp; I'm a&nbsp; UK 17th Century re-enactor =

(civilian)who is passionate about creating clothing that's as near to =
being an=20
accurate a facsimile as possible.&nbsp; I've got two children (one 8 and =
one 5=20
months) and so my life is always busy!</FONT></EM></DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Comic Sans MS"=20
size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4>I wonder =
if someone=20
could help with a couple of queries?&nbsp; Does anyone know whether =
forehead=20
cloths were de rigeur for both indoor and outdoor use, both children as =
well as=20
babies (babies I know about) and pervaded all levels of the social =
strata?&nbsp;=20
I know it's asking a lot, but any help is appreciated.</FONT></EM></DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Comic Sans MS"=20
size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Comic Sans MS"=20
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size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Comic Sans MS"=20
size=3D4>Helen</FONT></EM></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] new address
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Hello,  Just a quick note to everybody that I have a new e-mail address! =
 It is KJDERY@yahoo.com. Hope to "see" everyone there!

  Sincerly,
     Kim Dery   =20

 Old address;  kjdery@msn.com Get more from the Web.  FREE MSN Explorer d=
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Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 19:04:23 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


WAAAY behind, yes, I know, but this leads me to another question: Does
anyone know of sources for small (6"?) pieces of cloth of gold?  I can't
afford a yard of it, or a half yard, but a hanky-sized bit is all I really
need and might be within my budget, if anybody sells such small
quantities.

Emma

On Wed, 24 Jul 2002, Sue Clemenger wrote:

> Oh, okay....that half-way makes sense.  They sure looked like yokes of
> fabric, but you said the _Treasury_.....
> Hmmm....I wonder how I'd fake/duplicate it, since I don't exactly have
> access to cloth of gold.....
> --Sue

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Subject: Re: FW: [h-cost] Authenticity of Lucets
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On Fri, 2 Aug 2002, [iso-8859-1] N Kipar wrote:

> Again, interesting to know that indeed it is very important to be
> always dubious. There was no explanation in the original post where
> the bags originated from, thus it had to be assumed their providence
> was from the actual place where the museum is situated.

It had never occurred to me before that that might be a logical assumption
in Europe, particularly when you're talking about historical artifacts
(rather than, say, paintings). In the States, though, there are many fine
collections with a large proportion of work from outside the U.S. When you
think about it, essentially all our pre-1620 work (other than native
American) comes from outside of our own country, so we don't get into the
habit of associating artifacts from pre-Colonial eras with the locale in
which they're displayed. So it doesn't occur to me to find it odd that,
say, the Cleveland Museum of Art has some fine pieces of medieval
textiles. But if you told me that I'd find a good collection of Sioux
artifacts in Florida, or Old West artifacts in Connecticut, or antebellum
Southern gowns in Idaho, I'd think that was an odd place for them to end
up.

And I do remember being surprised to find a brilliant piece of English
medieval embroidery in the cathedral treasury in Bruges. But, well, why
not? I did go to Spain to see Flemish art, after all. And in those cases,
the pieces made their travels on their own merits, exported from their
country of origin like any other product to interested buyers. That was
long before collectors (such as Lord Elgin, an excellent example Nicole
mentioned) began wholesale movement of works from their places of origin
for purposes of historic preservation and display.

--Robin


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Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 19:24:20 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


>   Singer does still make treadle sewing machines.  They are offered in
> the Lohemann's catalog for non-electric living.  They are rather
> expensive.  My 1916 White was a quarter of the price and has a much
> nicer cabinet.  Singer probably is the best way to go however if you
> intend to use an antique.  Parts are far easier to come by.  (Luckily
> the Singer belts fit the white!). Cheers, Ron

You mean *Lehman's* Catalog, perhaps?  Highly ironic, but they have a very
nice webpage.  www.lehmans.com

Emma Lehman (not related, just a sort of customer)

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Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 00:52:19 -0400
Status: RO


My niece sent me this site from the Heidelberg University.  Really neat!
It does look like there are more than 137 pages. Hope this is useful.
Anne


http://digi.ub.uni-heidelberg.de/cpg848

Here's a website for you re: the Codex...looks like they scanned the
book 
online.  I checked with a bookstore in Germany & they would have to
order it 
for the same price as amazon, so if you want me to order it, let me
know.  I 
saw another book on amazon.de called Kleidung & Waffen der Spätgotik,
Teil 
I: 1320 - 1370 (clothing & weapons)...might be of interest, as well. 



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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: FW: [h-cost] Authenticity of Lucets
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Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 09:06:19 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote: > 

> It had never occurred to me before that that might be a logical assumption
> in Europe, particularly when you're talking about historical artifacts
> (rather than, say, paintings).

Ah, yes, but several factors come into that.
A) I didn't get my dates right at all regarding settlements in the colonies,
thus I believed there was a settlement at the time in questions.
B) yes OF COURSE most of the time the artifacts in question here in Europe are
from the place of origin of the actual museum! The National museum of denmark
in Copenhagen has artifacts from denmark. The V&A has mainly artefacts from
England. The Dresdner museum has artifacts from Saxony. and so on. It is
indeed, I believe a very different way of thinking and I'm afraid I can't get
my head around having to think 'where does this come from because it can't
possibly be from here'. It's odd, sorry, but I grew up steeped in history all
around me and everywhere.

 In the States, though, there are many fine
> collections with a large proportion of work from outside the U.S. When you
> think about it, essentially all our pre-1620 work (other than native
> American) comes from outside of our own country, so we don't get into the
> habit of associating artifacts from pre-Colonial eras with the locale in
> which they're displayed.

very true, I see your point, but as I said, we have (due to necessity)
different frames of mind.

> And I do remember being surprised to find a brilliant piece of English
> medieval embroidery in the cathedral treasury in Bruges. But, well, why
> not?

It was probably there because it went there in medieval times. This happened
fairly often, there is a piece of Anglo-Saxon 8th century brilliant embroidery
in a reliquiary in Holland. It went to Holland in medieval times.
Also, two World wars on our soil haven't helped, spoils of war were taken back
to the raider's country, but I must say that most are back by now. The clothing
of August the Strong (August der Starke) went to Russia after the war (II) but
have been back in Dresden for a few years now.

 I did go to Spain to see Flemish art, after all. And in those cases,
> the pieces made their travels on their own merits, exported from their
> country of origin like any other product to interested buyers. That was
> long before collectors (such as Lord Elgin, an excellent example Nicole
> mentioned) began wholesale movement of works from their places of origin
> for purposes of historic preservation and display.

Yes it does happen occasionally, but you have to understand that it is not the
norm, particularly not when talking about national museums. It doesn't help
that I really don't have a clue about the US. I don't know how many States
there are nor which they are, I am hopeless in Geography. Are there state
museums? I don't know. Do they primarily display items originating in that
state? I don't know. I was talking about what is the most PROBABLE origin
(after all, it was the first thought that came to mind) and having been to so
many European national museums the first thought was 'oh, it's from the same
country or at least near there'.

There you are, two contintents, two completely different ways of thinking :-)

Nicole - in serious need of getting to know the major US museums, coz they have
quite a few 17th c. bits.

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: FW: [h-cost] Authenticity of Lucets
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Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 09:13:32 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Elizabeth Hanes Perry <betsy.perry@oracle.com> wrote: >

> Nobody stole the Unicorn tapestries that now hang in the Cloisters 
> museum.  Buying an object of art and moving it is no different morally if 
> you're moving it from Sussex to Kent or from Sussex to America.  I'm sure 
> that some fine examples of Tiffany glass and Revere silver are in Europe or 
> Japan now.  That wasn't theft, either.  There's no moral law saying that 
> beautiful objects must stay in the place they were made.

Sheesh, I never said it was theft in the first place but I guess I didn't make
clear that i do believe there is a big difference between 19th century
'adventurer archaeologists' who are in my opinion thieves, and those who buy
who have the most money, and no, I don't like that either. Why is it that
museums cannot afford a piece of relatively local history to be displayed where
it should be, museums begging for donations so that they can buy such a piece,
but they can't, and it goes elsewhere. Okay, that's only a small percentage.
there are many different ways of buying and selling and sorry if I wasn't clear
(and I realise now that I wasn't) I don't mean that pieces of interest should
not be displayed in other countries so that the culture of the
respectivecountry can be shown and explained and the world cultures grow more
fond of each other etc. Nah, didn't mean that to happen. But I AM upset when a
van Gogh painting is bought by someone who places it then into a vault, never
to be seen again, that's a scandal! Or national museums being heartbroken
because they cannot buy a coveted object of local/national importance because
they just cannot afford it and it goes elsewhere where it is 'only' a beautiful
object and not of further importance. There are so many levels to this, and I
really don't want to get into it.
In essence, I just hope that all museums in the world are relatively happy with
what they have which is local/national, and also with what they have from other
countries to show their culture. That's probably not the case because we don't
live in an ideal world.
Anyway, enough of that, I can't be bothered anymore and have to stitch on ben's
embroidered nightcap instead. 
I personally see this thread closed for myself.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Forehead cloths in the 17th Century
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Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 09:20:38 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Helen  Partner <mail@helandbel.fsnet.co.uk> wrote: > 

Dear helen,

Welcome to you! there are quite a few of us here in the UK, though it doesn't
always seem so. :-) I do late 17th century 1660-1715, so tell me, are you in
the Sealed Knot or the ECW? (I assume you are in one of them)

> I wonder if someone could help with a couple of queries?  Does anyone know
> whether forehead cloths were de rigeur for both indoor and outdoor use, both
> children as well as babies (babies I know about) and pervaded all levels of
> the social strata?  I know it's asking a lot, but any help is appreciated.

I would love to help as much as I can, but please you DO have to tell us which
decade are you talking about. There are huge differences in different decades
on the 17th century, and soon the forehead cloths got out of fashion anyway.

Cheerio
nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Aug  3 07:10:23 2002
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Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 12:11:28 +0100
Status: RO

Hello again and thanks for the welcome!

Nicole,

I'm actually in the GAS Co (Gentlemen and Allied Skills) which was
originally an off-shoot of the ECWS.  I first joined the SK, then had dual
membership of the ECWS/SK for a few years.  For my sins, I'm still a member
of the ECWS although I don't really do military, I leave that to my husband!
BTW, he's the bloke you see when you visit the homepage of the ECWS site!
My primary interest is civilian and household.

The GAS Co primarily covers 1620 - 1650.  The issue of decades is a complex
one because there's 3 females of differing status involved!   I play
wetnurse, my baby plays offspring to the gentlewoman/lady of the house and
my 8 yr old plays  "poor ward".  So, as you can see, we could be portraying
anything from these decades due to the status issue.  If we take 1630 as a
mean average, then I spose I could be wearing  much older-style clothingn -
the baby could go either way, as you've got the issue of clothing being
handed-down (and the household is generally based in the countryside and
therefore not up with the current trends) and my eldest would still be
fairly lowly, I suppose.  I know that forehead cloths may have gone out of
style for women, but it appears that they were still in use in the last
decade of the 17th Century  as far as babies were concerned(Anne Buck's
"Clothes and the Child").  I'd be very grateful for any info on x-cloths or
forehead cloths for mine and my eldest's role.

Thanks

 ----- Original Message -----
From: "N Kipar" <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: 03 August 2002 09:20
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Forehead cloths in the 17th Century


> --- Helen  Partner <mail@helandbel.fsnet.co.uk> wrote: >
>
> Dear helen,
>
> Welcome to you! there are quite a few of us here in the UK, though it
doesn't
> always seem so. :-) I do late 17th century 1660-1715, so tell me, are you
in
> the Sealed Knot or the ECW? (I assume you are in one of them)
>
> > I wonder if someone could help with a couple of queries?  Does anyone
know
> > whether forehead cloths were de rigeur for both indoor and outdoor use,
both
> > children as well as babies (babies I know about) and pervaded all levels
of
> > the social strata?  I know it's asking a lot, but any help is
appreciated.
>
> I would love to help as much as I can, but please you DO have to tell us
which
> decade are you talking about. There are huge differences in different
decades
> on the 17th century, and soon the forehead cloths got out of fashion
anyway.
>
> Cheerio
> nicole
>
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
> Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: marquis@kipar.org
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Everything you'll ever need on one web page
> from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
> http://uk.my.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 12:32:51 +0100
Status: RO

Hello again,  Not sure why the last message came up from Helen Edmunds, when
I'm Helen Partner!  We've just upgraded to MS Exp 6 so something has
obviously caused the system to have a mental aberration!  It's also deleted
all the stuff in our previous Outlook Express!  Gulp!  Hope everyone else is
having a better and less taxing day!  :-)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Helen Edmunds" <AAH@helandbel.fsnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: 03 August 2002 12:11
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Forehead cloths in the 17th Century


> Hello again and thanks for the welcome!
>
> Nicole,
>
> I'm actually in the GAS Co (Gentlemen and Allied Skills) which was
> originally an off-shoot of the ECWS.  I first joined the SK, then had dual
> membership of the ECWS/SK for a few years.  For my sins, I'm still a
member
> of the ECWS although I don't really do military, I leave that to my
husband!
> BTW, he's the bloke you see when you visit the homepage of the ECWS site!
> My primary interest is civilian and household.
>
> The GAS Co primarily covers 1620 - 1650.  The issue of decades is a
complex
> one because there's 3 females of differing status involved!   I play
> wetnurse, my baby plays offspring to the gentlewoman/lady of the house and
> my 8 yr old plays  "poor ward".  So, as you can see, we could be
portraying
> anything from these decades due to the status issue.  If we take 1630 as a
> mean average, then I spose I could be wearing  much older-style
clothingn -
> the baby could go either way, as you've got the issue of clothing being
> handed-down (and the household is generally based in the countryside and
> therefore not up with the current trends) and my eldest would still be
> fairly lowly, I suppose.  I know that forehead cloths may have gone out of
> style for women, but it appears that they were still in use in the last
> decade of the 17th Century  as far as babies were concerned(Anne Buck's
> "Clothes and the Child").  I'd be very grateful for any info on x-cloths
or
> forehead cloths for mine and my eldest's role.
>
> Thanks
>
>  ----- Original Message -----
> From: "N Kipar" <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: 03 August 2002 09:20
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Forehead cloths in the 17th Century
>
>
> > --- Helen  Partner <mail@helandbel.fsnet.co.uk> wrote: >
> >
> > Dear helen,
> >
> > Welcome to you! there are quite a few of us here in the UK, though it
> doesn't
> > always seem so. :-) I do late 17th century 1660-1715, so tell me, are
you
> in
> > the Sealed Knot or the ECW? (I assume you are in one of them)
> >
> > > I wonder if someone could help with a couple of queries?  Does anyone
> know
> > > whether forehead cloths were de rigeur for both indoor and outdoor
use,
> both
> > > children as well as babies (babies I know about) and pervaded all
levels
> of
> > > the social strata?  I know it's asking a lot, but any help is
> appreciated.
> >
> > I would love to help as much as I can, but please you DO have to tell us
> which
> > decade are you talking about. There are huge differences in different
> decades
> > on the 17th century, and soon the forehead cloths got out of fashion
> anyway.
> >
> > Cheerio
> > nicole
> >
> > =====
> > Nicole Kipar M.A.
> > Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
> > Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
> > URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> > Email: marquis@kipar.org
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Everything you'll ever need on one web page
> > from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
> > http://uk.my.yahoo.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: "Saragrace knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Dumb question about forehead cloths was:RE: [h-cost] Forehead Clothes in the Seventeenth Century
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Hi Helen, sorry I don't have an answer, but a kind of silly question.  I
have seen these forehead cloths for years, but always lying flat (to
display embellishment usually).  I have always wondered how they were
worn.  I may have seen them on someone and not  known what I was looking
at.  I conjectured in my own mind that they might have been worn in
conjunction with an attifet or coif since you often see them together.
Assuming we are talking about the same thing-a triangular piece of
fabric-,was the pointy end worn to the back of the head (like a
kerchief) or did it dangle over the forehead-(hence the name?)   Thanks
in ad vance,
 
 
Saragrace

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Helen Partner
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 6:31 AM
To: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Forehead Clothes in the Seventeenth Century


Hello everyone,
 
May I quickly introduce myself as a new subscriber?  I'm a  UK 17th
Century re-enactor (civilian)who is passionate about creating clothing
that's as near to being an accurate a facsimile as possible.  I've got
two children (one 8 and one 5 months) and so my life is always busy!
 
I wonder if someone could help with a couple of queries?  Does anyone
know whether forehead cloths were de rigeur for both indoor and outdoor
use, both children as well as babies (babies I know about) and pervaded
all levels of the social strata?  I know it's asking a lot, but any help
is appreciated.
 
Thanks


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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DBatang color=3D#800000 size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D290291213-03082002>Hi=20
Helen, sorry I don't have an answer, but a kind of silly question.&nbsp; =
I have=20
seen these forehead cloths for years, but always lying flat (to display=20
embellishment usually).&nbsp; I have always wondered how they were =
worn.&nbsp; I=20
may have seen them on someone and not&nbsp; known what I was looking =
at.&nbsp; I=20
conjectured in my own mind that they might have been worn in conjunction =
with an=20
attifet or coif since you often see them together.&nbsp; Assuming we are =
talking=20
about the same thing-a triangular piece of fabric-,was the pointy end =
worn to=20
the back of the head (like a kerchief) or did it dangle over the =
forehead-(hence=20
the name?)&nbsp;&nbsp; Thanks in ad vance,</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DBatang color=3D#800000 size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D290291213-03082002></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DBatang color=3D#800000 size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D290291213-03082002></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DBatang color=3D#800000 size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D290291213-03082002>Saragrace</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #800000 2px =
solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader lang=3Den-us dir=3Dltr =
align=3Dleft><FONT=20
  face=3DTahoma size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>=20
  h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] <B>On =
Behalf Of=20
  </B>Helen Partner<BR><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, August 01, 2002 6:31=20
  AM<BR><B>To:</B> h-costume@net.indra.com<BR><B>Subject:</B> [h-cost] =
Forehead=20
  Clothes in the Seventeenth Century<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" color=3D#000000 size=3D4>Hello=20
  everyone,</FONT></EM></DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" color=3D#000000=20
  size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" color=3D#000000 size=3D4>May I =
quickly=20
  introduce myself as a new subscriber?&nbsp; I'm a&nbsp; UK 17th =
Century=20
  re-enactor (civilian)who is passionate about creating clothing that's =
as near=20
  to being an accurate a facsimile as possible.&nbsp; I've got two =
children (one=20
  8 and one 5 months) and so my life is always busy!</FONT></EM></DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" color=3D#000000=20
  size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" color=3D#000000 size=3D4>I =
wonder if someone=20
  could help with a couple of queries?&nbsp; Does anyone know whether =
forehead=20
  cloths were de rigeur for both indoor and outdoor use, both children =
as well=20
  as babies (babies I know about) and pervaded all levels of the social=20
  strata?&nbsp; I know it's asking a lot, but any help is=20
  appreciated.</FONT></EM></DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" color=3D#000000=20
  size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" color=3D#000000=20
  size=3D4>Thanks</FONT></EM></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From: "Helen Edmunds" <AAH@helandbel.fsnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <000f01c23af0$2b5a5ea0$6501a8c0@Home>
Subject: Re: Dumb question about forehead cloths was:RE: [h-cost] Forehead Clothes in the Seventeenth Century
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MessageSaragrace

It's not a silly question  :-)
Yep you're right,  the forehead cloth is the triangular-shaped item.  My =
understanding, is that it was worn in conjunction with a coif (well, in =
my period) and on the head with the flat edge to the front.  Sometimes, =
you can see a faint glimpse of these in  the various images of babies in =
the 17th C.  A friend and I were having just such a discussion yesterday =
about how far over the forehead the fc came!  We're not really sure, =
either!  Looking at pictorial evidence, it appears that they didn't =
protrude too much.  I've not been too much help, have I?

Regards
Helen =20
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Saragrace knauf=20
  To: h-costume@indra.com=20
  Sent: 03 August 2002 14:17
  Subject: Dumb question about forehead cloths was:RE: [h-cost] Forehead =
Clothes in the Seventeenth Century


  Hi Helen, sorry I don't have an answer, but a kind of silly question.  =
I have seen these forehead cloths for years, but always lying flat (to =
display embellishment usually).  I have always wondered how they were =
worn.  I may have seen them on someone and not  known what I was looking =
at.  I conjectured in my own mind that they might have been worn in =
conjunction with an attifet or coif since you often see them together.  =
Assuming we are talking about the same thing-a triangular piece of =
fabric-,was the pointy end worn to the back of the head (like a =
kerchief) or did it dangle over the forehead-(hence the name?)   Thanks =
in ad vance,


  Saragrace
    -----Original Message-----
    From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] =
On Behalf Of Helen Partner
    Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 6:31 AM
    To: h-costume@net.indra.com
    Subject: [h-cost] Forehead Clothes in the Seventeenth Century


    Hello everyone,

    May I quickly introduce myself as a new subscriber?  I'm a  UK 17th =
Century re-enactor (civilian)who is passionate about creating clothing =
that's as near to being an accurate a facsimile as possible.  I've got =
two children (one 8 and one 5 months) and so my life is always busy!

    I wonder if someone could help with a couple of queries?  Does =
anyone know whether forehead cloths were de rigeur for both indoor and =
outdoor use, both children as well as babies (babies I know about) and =
pervaded all levels of the social strata?  I know it's asking a lot, but =
any help is appreciated.

    Thanks

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<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" =
size=3D4>Saragrace</FONT></EM></DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4>It's not a silly =
question&nbsp;=20
:-)</FONT></EM></DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4>Yep you're right,&nbsp; =
the forehead=20
cloth is the triangular-shaped item.&nbsp; My understanding, is that it =
was worn=20
in conjunction with a coif (well, in my period) and on the head with the =
flat=20
edge to the front.&nbsp; Sometimes, you can see a faint glimpse of these =

in&nbsp; the various images of babies in the 17th C.&nbsp; A friend and =
I were=20
having just such a discussion yesterday about how far over the forehead =
the fc=20
came!&nbsp; We're not really sure, either!&nbsp; Looking at pictorial =
evidence,=20
it appears that they didn't protrude too much.&nbsp; I've not been too =
much=20
help, have I?</FONT></EM></DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4>Regards</FONT></EM></DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" =
size=3D4>Helen&nbsp;&nbsp;</FONT></EM></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Dsaragrace@earthlink.net=20
  href=3D"mailto:saragrace@earthlink.net">Saragrace knauf</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dh-costume@indra.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> 03 August 2002 =
14:17</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Dumb question about =
forehead=20
  cloths was:RE: [h-cost] Forehead Clothes in the Seventeenth =
Century</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DBatang color=3D#800000 size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D290291213-03082002>Hi=20
  Helen, sorry I don't have an answer, but a kind of silly =
question.&nbsp; I=20
  have seen these forehead cloths for years, but always lying flat (to =
display=20
  embellishment usually).&nbsp; I have always wondered how they were =
worn.&nbsp;=20
  I may have seen them on someone and not&nbsp; known what I was looking =

  at.&nbsp; I conjectured in my own mind that they might have been worn =
in=20
  conjunction with an attifet or coif since you often see them =
together.&nbsp;=20
  Assuming we are talking about the same thing-a triangular piece of =
fabric-,was=20
  the pointy end worn to the back of the head (like a kerchief) or did =
it dangle=20
  over the forehead-(hence the name?)&nbsp;&nbsp; Thanks in ad=20
  vance,</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DBatang color=3D#800000 size=3D2><SPAN=20
  class=3D290291213-03082002></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DBatang color=3D#800000 size=3D2><SPAN=20
  class=3D290291213-03082002></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DBatang color=3D#800000 size=3D2><SPAN=20
  class=3D290291213-03082002>Saragrace</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
  <BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
  style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #800000 2px =
solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
    <DIV></DIV>
    <DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader lang=3Den-us dir=3Dltr =
align=3Dleft><FONT=20
    face=3DTahoma size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>=20
    h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] <B>On =
Behalf Of=20
    </B>Helen Partner<BR><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, August 01, 2002 6:31=20
    AM<BR><B>To:</B> h-costume@net.indra.com<BR><B>Subject:</B> [h-cost] =

    Forehead Clothes in the Seventeenth Century<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" color=3D#000000 size=3D4>Hello =

    everyone,</FONT></EM></DIV>
    <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" color=3D#000000=20
    size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" color=3D#000000 size=3D4>May I =
quickly=20
    introduce myself as a new subscriber?&nbsp; I'm a&nbsp; UK 17th =
Century=20
    re-enactor (civilian)who is passionate about creating clothing =
that's as=20
    near to being an accurate a facsimile as possible.&nbsp; I've got =
two=20
    children (one 8 and one 5 months) and so my life is always=20
    busy!</FONT></EM></DIV>
    <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" color=3D#000000=20
    size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" color=3D#000000 size=3D4>I =
wonder if someone=20
    could help with a couple of queries?&nbsp; Does anyone know whether =
forehead=20
    cloths were de rigeur for both indoor and outdoor use, both children =
as well=20
    as babies (babies I know about) and pervaded all levels of the =
social=20
    strata?&nbsp; I know it's asking a lot, but any help is=20
    appreciated.</FONT></EM></DIV>
    <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" color=3D#000000=20
    size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" color=3D#000000=20
    =
size=3D4>Thanks</FONT></EM></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>=


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Subject: Re: Dumb question about forehead cloths was:RE: [h-cost] Forehead Clothes in the Seventeenth Century
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Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2002 08:09:40 -0700
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Could you or someone recommend some pictures so I can take a look at 
what you are talking about better?  This is not my period, but it does 
sound very interesting.

Roscelin

Helen Edmunds wrote:

> Saragrace
>
>  
>
> It's not a silly question  :-)
>
> Yep you're right,  the forehead cloth is the triangular-shaped item.  
> My understanding, is that it was worn in conjunction with a coif 
> (well, in my period) and on the head with the flat edge to the front.  
> Sometimes, you can see a faint glimpse of these in  the various images 
> of babies in the 17th C.  A friend and I were having just such a 
> discussion yesterday about how far over the forehead the fc came!  
> We're not really sure, either!  Looking at pictorial evidence, it 
> appears that they didn't protrude too much.  I've not been too much 
> help, have I?
>
>  
>
> Regards
>
> Helen  
>
>     ----- Original Message -----
>
>     From: Saragrace knauf <mailto:saragrace@earthlink.net>
>
>     To:h-costume@indra.com <mailto:h-costume@indra.com>
>
>     Sent: 03 August 2002 14:17
>
>     Subject: Dumb question about forehead cloths was:RE: [h-cost]
>     Forehead Clothes in the Seventeenth Century
>
>
>     Hi Helen, sorry I don't have an answer, but a kind of silly
>     question.  I have seen these forehead cloths for years, but always
>     lying flat (to display embellishment usually).  I have always
>     wondered how they were worn.  I may have seen them on someone and
>     not  known what I was looking at.  I conjectured in my own mind
>     that they might have been worn in conjunction with an attifet or
>     coif since you often see them together.  Assuming we are talking
>     about the same thing-a triangular piece of fabric-,was the pointy
>     end worn to the back of the head (like a kerchief) or did it
>     dangle over the forehead-(hence the name?)   Thanks in ad vance,
>
>      
>
>      
>
>     Saragrace
>
>         -----Original Message-----
>         From: h-costume-admin@indra.com
>         [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On Behalf Of Helen Partner
>         Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 6:31 AM
>         To: h-costume@net.indra.com
>         Subject: [h-cost] Forehead Clothes in the Seventeenth Century
>
>         Hello everyone,
>
>          
>
>         May I quickly introduce myself as a new subscriber?  I'm a  UK
>         17th Century re-enactor (civilian)who is passionate about
>         creating clothing that's as near to being an accurate a
>         facsimile as possible.  I've got two children (one 8 and one 5
>         months) and so my life is always busy!
>
>          
>
>         I wonder if someone could help with a couple of queries?  Does
>         anyone know whether forehead cloths were de rigeur for both
>         indoor and outdoor use, both children as well as babies
>         (babies I know about) and pervaded all levels of the social
>         strata?  I know it's asking a lot, but any help is appreciated.
>
>          
>
>         Thanks
>


--------------000306000608040103020009
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<html>
<head>
</head>
<body>
Could you or someone recommend some pictures so I can take a look at what
you are talking about better? &nbsp;This is not my period, but it does sound very
interesting.<br>
<br>
Roscelin<br>
<br>
Helen Edmunds wrote:<br>
<blockquote type="cite" cite="mid:000b01c23afe$e9729520$c41886d9@oemcomputer">
  <title>Message</title>
  <meta content="MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name="GENERATOR">
  <style></style>
  <div><em><font face="Comic Sans MS" size="4">Saragrace</font></em></div>
  <div><em></em>&nbsp;</div>
  <div><em><font face="Comic Sans MS" size="4">It's not a silly question&nbsp;
 :-)</font></em></div>
  <div><em><font face="Comic Sans MS" size="4">Yep you're right,&nbsp; the forehead
 cloth is the triangular-shaped item.&nbsp; My understanding, is that it was worn
 in conjunction with a coif (well, in my period) and on the head with the
flat  edge to the front.&nbsp; Sometimes, you can see a faint glimpse of these
 in&nbsp; the various images of babies in the 17th C.&nbsp; A friend and I were  having
just such a discussion yesterday about how far over the forehead the fc  came!&nbsp;
We're not really sure, either!&nbsp; Looking at pictorial evidence,  it appears
that they didn't protrude too much.&nbsp; I've not been too much  help, have I?</font></em></div>
  <div><em></em>&nbsp;</div>
  <div><em><font face="Comic Sans MS" size="4">Regards</font></em></div>
  <div><em><font face="Comic Sans MS" size="4">Helen&nbsp;&nbsp;</font></em></div>
  <blockquote dir="Ltr" style="padding-right: 0px; padding-left: 5px; margin-left: 5px; border-left-width: 2px; border-left-style: solid; border-left-color: rgb(0,0,0); margin-right: 0px; ">
    <div style="font-family: arial; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; font-size: 10pt; line-height: normal; font-stretch: normal; font-size-adjust: none; ">
----- Original Message ----- </div>
    <div style="background-color: rgb(228,228,228); background-image: none; background-repeat: repeat; background-attachment: scroll; -x-background-x-position: 0%; -x-background-y-position: 0%; font-family: arial; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; font-size: 10pt; line-height: normal; font-stretch: normal; font-size-adjust: none; "><b>
From:</b><a title="saragrace@earthlink.net" href="mailto:saragrace@earthlink.net">
Saragrace knauf</a>
    </div>
    <div style="font-family: arial; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; font-size: 10pt; line-height: normal; font-stretch: normal; font-size-adjust: none; "><b>
To:</b><a title="h-costume@indra.com" href="mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</a>
    </div>
    <div style="font-family: arial; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; font-size: 10pt; line-height: normal; font-stretch: normal; font-size-adjust: none; "><b>
Sent:</b> 03 August 2002 14:17</div>
    <div style="font-family: arial; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; font-size: 10pt; line-height: normal; font-stretch: normal; font-size-adjust: none; "><b>
Subject:</b> Dumb question about forehead    cloths was:RE: [h-cost] Forehead
Clothes in the Seventeenth Century</div>
    <div><br>
    </div>
    <div><font face="Batang" color="#800000" size="2"><span class="290291213-03082002">
Hi    Helen, sorry I don't have an answer, but a kind of silly question.&nbsp;
I    have seen these forehead cloths for years, but always lying flat (to
display    embellishment usually).&nbsp; I have always wondered how they were
worn.&nbsp;    I may have seen them on someone and not&nbsp; known what I was looking
   at.&nbsp; I conjectured in my own mind that they might have been worn in  
 conjunction with an attifet or coif since you often see them together.&nbsp;
   Assuming we are talking about the same thing-a triangular piece of fabric-,was
   the pointy end worn to the back of the head (like a kerchief) or did it
dangle    over the forehead-(hence the name?)&nbsp;&nbsp; Thanks in ad    vance,</span></font></div>
    <div>&nbsp;</div>
    <div>&nbsp;</div>
    <div><font face="Batang" color="#800000" size="2"><span class="290291213-03082002">
Saragrace</span></font></div>
    <blockquote dir="Ltr" style="padding-left: 5px; margin-left: 5px; border-left-width: 2px; border-left-style: solid; border-left-color: rgb(128,0,0); margin-right: 0px; ">
      <div class="OutlookMessageHeader" lang="en-us" dir="Ltr" align="Left"><font face="Tahoma" size="2">
-----Original Message-----<br>
      <b>From:</b>      <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com">h-costume-admin@indra.com</a> [<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com">mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com</a>]
      <b>On Behalf Of      </b>Helen Partner<br>
      <b>Sent:</b> Thursday, August 01, 2002 6:31      AM<br>
      <b>To:</b> <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:h-costume@net.indra.com">h-costume@net.indra.com</a><br>
      <b>Subject:</b> [h-cost]      Forehead Clothes in the Seventeenth Century<br>
      <br>
      </font></div>
      <div><em><font face="Comic Sans MS" color="#000000" size="4">Hello
     everyone,</font></em></div>
      <div><em></em>&nbsp;</div>
      <div><em><font face="Comic Sans MS" color="#000000" size="4">May I
quickly      introduce myself as a new subscriber?&nbsp; I'm a&nbsp; UK 17th Century
     re-enactor (civilian)who is passionate about creating clothing that's
as      near to being an accurate a facsimile as possible.&nbsp; I've got two
     children (one 8 and one 5 months) and so my life is always      busy!</font></em></div>
      <div><em></em>&nbsp;</div>
      <div><em><font face="Comic Sans MS" color="#000000" size="4">I wonder
if someone      could help with a couple of queries?&nbsp; Does anyone know whether
forehead      cloths were de rigeur for both indoor and outdoor use, both
children as well      as babies (babies I know about) and pervaded all levels
of the social      strata?&nbsp; I know it's asking a lot, but any help is   
  appreciated.</font></em></div>
      <div><em></em>&nbsp;</div>
      <div><em><font face="Comic Sans MS" color="#000000" size="4">Thanks</font></em></div>
      </blockquote>
      </blockquote>
      </blockquote>
      <br>
      </body>
      </html>

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Subject: RE: Dumb question about forehead cloths was:RE: [h-cost] Forehead Clothes in the Seventeenth Century
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Here are some pics
 
I guess I should have looked here   before  I asked   the  question
http://costume.dm.net/headwear/coifpics.html
 
Leave it to Drea-she always has at least part of the anwer!




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<DIV><SPAN class=3D840491416-03082002><FONT face=3DBatang =
color=3D#800000 size=3D2>Here=20
are some pics</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D840491416-03082002><FONT face=3DBatang =
color=3D#800000=20
size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D840491416-03082002><FONT face=3DBatang =
color=3D#800000 size=3D2>I=20
guess I should have looked here&nbsp;&nbsp; before&nbsp; I =
asked&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
the&nbsp; question&nbsp;&nbsp; <A=20
href=3D"http://costume.dm.net/headwear/coifpics.html">http://costume.dm.n=
et/headwear/coifpics.html</A></FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D840491416-03082002><FONT face=3DBatang =
color=3D#800000=20
size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D840491416-03082002><FONT face=3DBatang =
color=3D#800000 size=3D2>Leave=20
it to Drea-she always has at least part of the =
anwer!</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #800000 2px =
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Aug  3 12:59:58 2002
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From: "Mary Temple" <noxcat@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: State History Museums was: Re: FW: [h-cost] Authenticity of Lucets
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Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2002 16:42:07 +0000
Status: RO

Well, Texas just recently opened a state history museum - The Bob Bullock 
Texas State History Museum. It's been open about a year, and is more 
successful than they thought it would be. Even tho Spain claimed the land 
that became Texas in 1519, Texas as we know it is ver young, even compared 
to other states - less than 200 years. I haven't yet been to the museum, but 
I did tour the Capitol building last weekend, and they have a Battle Flag 
from one of the Taxas Independence wars, and they won't display it becasue 
"it's very old" and they don't want it damaged while on display. The display 
model is a replica.

Rumor has it the State History museum has textiles on display.

Mary/Katerine
in unseasonanbly cool Austin - we have yet to have a 100 degree F day this 
summer!

>Yes it does happen occasionally, but you have to understand that it is not 
>the
>norm, particularly not when talking about national museums. It doesn't help
>that I really don't have a clue about the US. I don't know how many States
>there are nor which they are, I am hopeless in Geography. Are there state
>museums? I don't know. Do they primarily display items originating in that
>state? I don't know. I was talking about what is the most PROBABLE origin
>(after all, it was the first thought that came to mind) and having been to 
>so
>many European national museums the first thought was 'oh, it's from the 
>same
>country or at least near there'.
>
>Nicole - in serious need of getting to know the major US museums, coz they 
>have
>quite a few 17th c. bits.
>


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Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 11:42:32 -0500
Status: RO

I have some vintage children's patterns that I'd like to date.  They are all
Simplicity patterns priced from 15 cents to 40 cents.

If you know a good on-line source, I'd appreciate a link, or if you are
knowledgeable about designs from the mid 20th century, please let me know. I
have scanned two of the covers and I could send them to someone for viewing.
The pattern numbers are 1824, 4318, 2002, 4103, 1734, 2059, if that helps
anyone.

Thanks
Denise
landofoz@netins.net


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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: State History Museums was: Re: FW: [h-cost] Authenticity of Lucets
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 18:27:36 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Mary Temple <noxcat@hotmail.com> wrote: > 
> I did tour the Capitol building last weekend, and they have a Battle Flag 
> from one of the Taxas Independence wars, and they won't display it becasue 
> "it's very old" and they don't want it damaged while on display. The display 
> model is a replica.

Uhm, so the original flag would be just 200 years? And that is 'very old'? Oh
my.... I am trying to get my head around this way of thinking, but I just had
my seamstress cut up and put back together over 100 year old lace to make the
ruffles for my chemise for the mantua, and it seems like using something
modern. I have pieces of 17th century lace that admittedly I would not consider
cutting up, but instead I use them whole or for display, and have a late 18th
century fan, that admittedly I wouldn't use, due to it's delicate condition
(painted silk).
This is really fascinating, completely different ways of thinking and values.
200 year old things are considered to be quite modern and just vintage here, at
least amongst the historians and curators that I know. 
Fascinating!
Thanks Mary, I'm flabbergasted.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 09:51:55 -0800 (GMT-08:00)
Status: RO

> Uhm, so the original flag would be just 200 years? And that is 'very
>  old'? Oh my.... I am trying to get my head around this way of 
> thinking

The difference between Europeans and Americans is that Europeans think 100 miles is a long distance, and Americans think 100 years is a long time.

(Old joke, but true.)

Betsy
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Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 12:00:52 -0700
Status: RO

I might be able to help if you'd like to send me scans. The pattern numbers
are reused, so they don't mean much without pics.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"Do you not know I am a woman?.  When I think, I must speak."
As You Like It; III, ii - W. Shakespeare

----- Original Message -----
From: "Land of Oz" <landofoz@netins.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2002 9:42 AM
Subject: [h-cost] pattern age id


> I have some vintage children's patterns that I'd like to date.  They are
all
> Simplicity patterns priced from 15 cents to 40 cents.
>
> If you know a good on-line source, I'd appreciate a link, or if you are
> knowledgeable about designs from the mid 20th century, please let me know.
I
> have scanned two of the covers and I could send them to someone for
viewing.
> The pattern numbers are 1824, 4318, 2002, 4103, 1734, 2059, if that helps
> anyone.
>
> Thanks
> Denise
> landofoz@netins.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 12:21:03 -0700
Status: RO

There are some books on vintage patterns called _Blueprints of Fashion_, and
they include information on dating (including years when logos and number
series changed, etc.).  These might help!

- Kendra
----- Original Message -----
From: "Land of Oz" <landofoz@netins.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2002 9:42 AM
Subject: [h-cost] pattern age id


> I have some vintage children's patterns that I'd like to date.  They are
all
> Simplicity patterns priced from 15 cents to 40 cents.
>
> If you know a good on-line source, I'd appreciate a link, or if you are
> knowledgeable about designs from the mid 20th century, please let me know.
I
> have scanned two of the covers and I could send them to someone for
viewing.
> The pattern numbers are 1824, 4318, 2002, 4103, 1734, 2059, if that helps
> anyone.
>
> Thanks
> Denise
> landofoz@netins.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2002 12:44:57 -0700
Status: RO


>Uhm, so the original flag would be just 200 years? And that is 'very old'? 

Nicole, the way I have heard it put is:  In America, we think a hundred
years is a long time.  In England, you think a hundred miles is a long way.
 It's jsut a matter of the local culture.

Except for Native American artifacts, nothing in this country is much more
than 400 years old.  In the part of the country I'm in, (Gold Rush area of
California) there were no European settlers until the 1850's, and everyone
oohs and ahhs over 19th century artifacts. 

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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> Uhm, so the original flag would be just 200 years? And that is 'very old'?

Not necessarily. If I'm remembering my American History correctly (Would
an actual Texan please pipe up?), there were several wars of independance
between Texas and Mexico long before Texas was a state.  So very old in
this case means "Not less than 200 years."

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Dumb question about forehead cloths was:RE: [h-cost] Forehead Clothes in the Seventeenth Century
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Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 21:52:44 +0100
Status: RO

Are there portraits of people wearing them?  Did they go over the coif 
or under?  I've just recently been investigating religious headcovering, 
and having had it pointed out to me, noticing that many women wearing 
hijab wear a small cap or tied headscarf underneath, which comes down to 
the forehead, and the large headscarf sits further back on the head.  Do 
forehead cloths work in a similar way?

Jean Waddie



Helen Edmunds <AAH@helandbel.fsnet.co.uk> wrote
>Saragrace
> 
>It's not a silly question  :-)
>Yep you're right,  the forehead cloth is the triangular-shaped item.  My
>understanding, is that it was worn in conjunction with a coif (well, in my
>period) and on the head with the flat edge to the front.  Sometimes, you
>can see a faint glimpse of these in  the various images of babies in the
>17th C.  A friend and I were having just such a discussion yesterday about
>how far over the forehead the fc came!  We're not really sure, either! 
>Looking at pictorial evidence, it appears that they didn't protrude too much.
>  I've not been too much help, have I?
> 
>Regards
>Helen  
>  ----- Original Message -----
>  From: Saragrace knauf
>  To: h-costume@indra.com
>  Sent: 03 August 2002 14:17
>  Subject: Dumb question about forehead cloths was:RE: [h-cost]
>  Forehead Clothes in the Seventeenth Century
>
>  Hi Helen, sorry I don't have an answer, but a kind of silly question.  I
>  have seen these forehead cloths for years, but always lying flat (to
>  display embellishment usually).  I have always wondered how they
>  were worn.  I may have seen them on someone and not  known what I
>  was looking at.  I conjectured in my own mind that they might have
>  been worn in conjunction with an attifet or coif since you often see
>  them together.  Assuming we are talking about the same thing-a
>  triangular piece of fabric-,was the pointy end worn to the back of the
>  head (like a kerchief) or did it dangle over the forehead-(hence the
>  name?)   Thanks in ad vance,
>   
>   
>  Saragrace
>
>>    -----Original Message-----
>>    From: h-costume-admin@indra.com
>>    [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On Behalf Of Helen Partner
>>    Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 6:31 AM
>>    To: h-costume@net.indra.com
>>    Subject: [h-cost] Forehead Clothes in the Seventeenth Century
>
>>    Hello everyone,
>>     
>>    May I quickly introduce myself as a new subscriber?  I'm a  UK 17th
>>    Century re-enactor (civilian)who is passionate about creating
>>    clothing that's as near to being an accurate a facsimile as possible. 
>>    I've got two children (one 8 and one 5 months) and so my life is
>>    always busy!
>>     
>>    I wonder if someone could help with a couple of queries?  Does
>>    anyone know whether forehead cloths were de rigeur for both indoor
>>    and outdoor use, both children as well as babies (babies I know
>>    about) and pervaded all levels of the social strata?  I know it's asking
>>    a lot, but any help is appreciated.
>>     
>>    Thanks

-- 
Jean Waddie
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Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 16:31:20 -0500
Status: RO

The flag in question was from the Battle of San Jacinto that occurred in
1836.  This was the battle where Sam Houston and his fellow "Texians"
effected their revenge on Santa Anna for the Alamo.  Santa Anna was
literally caught with his pants down as he was being entertained that
afternoon in his tent by a local "mulatto" slave girl nicknamed "The Yellow
Rose".  The flag has almost religious significance for Texas and
consequently is  being stored in the dark under controlled temperature and
humidity.

Hope this helps,

Karen Verschoor
Houston, TX
http://kverschoor0.tripod.com/home.htm


>
> > Uhm, so the original flag would be just 200 years? And that is 'very
old'?
>
> Not necessarily. If I'm remembering my American History correctly (Would
> an actual Texan please pipe up?), there were several wars of independance
> between Texas and Mexico long before Texas was a state.  So very old in
> this case means "Not less than 200 years."


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Subject: [h-cost] Battle of San Jacinto was: State History Museums
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Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 16:38:43 -0500
Status: RO

To bring this back to the topic of costuming -  this battle is reenacted
every year in (of course) period costume.  Photos of this years reneactment
can be found on my web page under 2002 projects.
Karen Verschoor
Houston, TX
http://kverschoor0.tripod.com/home.htm
>
> Not necessarily. If I'm remembering my American History correctly (Would
> an actual Texan please pipe up?), there were several wars of independance
> between Texas and Mexico long before Texas was a state.  So very old in
> this case means "Not less than 200 years."
>


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Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 16:41:37 -0500
Status: RO

You could send me your scans, I can probably tell within a few years.

Kim Baird
kbaird@cableone.net

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Land of Oz
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2002 11:43 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] pattern age id

I have some vintage children's patterns that I'd like to date.  They are
all
Simplicity patterns priced from 15 cents to 40 cents.

If you know a good on-line source, I'd appreciate a link, or if you are
knowledgeable about designs from the mid 20th century, please let me
know. I
have scanned two of the covers and I could send them to someone for
viewing.
The pattern numbers are 1824, 4318, 2002, 4103, 1734, 2059, if that
helps
anyone.

Thanks
Denise
landofoz@netins.net


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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] actual Texan here--OT on Texas flag
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Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2002 17:42:48 -0500
Status: RO

Emma Elizabeth Lehman wrote:
> 
> > Uhm, so the original flag would be just 200 years? And that is 'very old'?
> 
> Not necessarily. If I'm remembering my American History correctly (Would
> an actual Texan please pipe up?), there were several wars of independance
> between Texas and Mexico long before Texas was a state.

Howdy.  ;)

Texas' war of independence from Mexico culminated in victory (for Texas)
in 1836.  (Mexico had only won its independence from Spain fifteen years
previously.)  It seems likely that this was the war in question.  A
synopsis of the six flags of Texas can be seen here:
http://www.lsjunction.com/facts/6flags.htm
The battle flag in question may have been the same design as was then
used to signify the newly liberated Republic of Texas and today flies as
the Texas state flag.

All this to say that the flag in question is most likely less than 200
years old.  It may be that, having been in battle, it is more fragile
than age alone would suggest.

Cheers,
Melanie Schuessler
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: State History Museums
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Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2002 18:01:35 -0400
Status: RO

It does also depend a bit on where you are in the USA. I'm in New York 
City, and we aren't all that impressed by 19th century... plenty of that 
around! 18th century varies...

And our Museum of the City of New York certainly has many things in it 
that were not produced here. They have an extensive collection of 17th 
century articles from the Netherlands, which were brought here by 
settlers when this area was first colonized as New Amsterdam. These 
things were used here, but not made here.  Since the city was founded as 
a seaport and trading post, and has flourished as such ever since 
(though our methods of trade and transportation have changed *G* ), our 
history would not be complete without evidence of that trade, which has 
always been more important to the city than actual manufacture. (Design, 
yes. Manufacture, no...)

Anne


Margo Anderson wrote:

>
>Nicole, the way I have heard it put is:  In America, we think a hundred
>years is a long time.  In England, you think a hundred miles is a long way.
> It's jsut a matter of the local culture.
>
>Except for Native American artifacts, nothing in this country is much more
>than 400 years old.  In the part of the country I'm in, (Gold Rush area of
>California) there were no European settlers until the 1850's, and everyone
>oohs and ahhs over 19th century artifacts. 
>
>Margo
>"One Tough Costumer"
>
>
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] actual Texan here--OT on Texas flag
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Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 19:11:34 EDT
Status: RO

Many flags were made of silk, and many silk textiles are not aging well.  
Most of you are probably aware of many late 19th century, or even 20th 
century, silk garments that are shattering.  So the decision not to display 
this one could be very wise.  Also, most collections now try to rotate all 
the textiles that are on view, to limit the exposure to light and the stress 
of display.
Ann Wass
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Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 19:09:45 -0500
Status: RO

"In America 100 years is a long time.
In England 100 miles is a long distance."
it's all due to your frame of reference...
Betsy

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of N Kipar
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2002 12:28 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: State History Museums was: Re: FW: [h-cost] Authenticity of
Lucets


 --- Mary Temple <noxcat@hotmail.com> wrote: >
> I did tour the Capitol building last weekend, and they have a Battle Flag
> from one of the Taxas Independence wars, and they won't display it becasue
> "it's very old" and they don't want it damaged while on display. The
display
> model is a replica.

Uhm, so the original flag would be just 200 years? And that is 'very old'?
Oh
my.... I am trying to get my head around this way of thinking, but I just
had
my seamstress cut up and put back together over 100 year old lace to make
the
ruffles for my chemise for the mantua, and it seems like using something
modern. I have pieces of 17th century lace that admittedly I would not
consider
cutting up, but instead I use them whole or for display, and have a late
18th
century fan, that admittedly I wouldn't use, due to it's delicate condition
(painted silk).
This is really fascinating, completely different ways of thinking and
values.
200 year old things are considered to be quite modern and just vintage here,
at
least amongst the historians and curators that I know.
Fascinating!
Thanks Mary, I'm flabbergasted.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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first she takes my joke, now she's got my name too...
wah! Betsy

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
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Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2002 12:52 PM
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Subject: [h-cost] Time


> Uhm, so the original flag would be just 200 years? And that is 'very
>  old'? Oh my.... I am trying to get my head around this way of
> thinking

The difference between Europeans and Americans is that Europeans think 100
miles is a long distance, and Americans think 100 years is a long time.

(Old joke, but true.)

Betsy
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Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 19:16:57 -0500
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When did people start wearing forehead cloths? Were they worn in public, or
were they more of an in private piece of clothing?


**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
Bristol,
BRF FOF

So many books, so little time

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: State History Museums
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Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2002 20:10:19 -0600
Status: RO

Amen to that! I'm in Montana (it's a good sized chunk of the NW part of
the U.S., straddling the Rocky Mountains and the Continental Divide, to
those of us not familiar with US geography)....the history of non-native
peoples in this area is just *barely* 200 years total--the big tourist
attraction this year (and for a few more years) is all the 200th
anniversary hoopla of the Lewis and Clark expedition.  The peoples who
lived here before it was overrun by settlers, miners, fur trappers,
etc., were mostly migratory, as far as I know--I don't know, for
instance, that they built permanent structures at all, although I could
be wrong! So our history is very, very different from that of more
settled areas of the US, let alone Europe, or Asia, or Africa, or parts
of Central and South America, which all have had civilizations far back
into the past!
I think it gives you a very different outlook, if you let it.  The
things that are *old* here have nothing to do with man and womankind. 
Some of the trees here pre-date us, and the rocks definitely do! (not a
specious comment--there are some amazing dinosaur finds in parts of
Montana...I spent a couple of years living in eastern Montana, where my
brother and I regularly went fossil-hunting....I've got some of the best
ones (mostly from leaves) on the bookshelves in my living room (right
next to all the costuming books <g>).
And we have huge amounts of open space out here--Montana's the size of
Spain, but only has about 800,000 people total.  The town I live in
(Missoula) only has (if you include the surrounding county) about,
maybe, 80,000? And it's the second-largest town in the state, I
think....
When I fly into London at the end of the month, it will be the largest
city I've ever been in! <g> It makes me a bit nervous, the thought of
all those people! I've never ridden on a subway, for instance, or a
passenger train, or been to another country except Canada.  (Amazingly
enough, Saskatchewan and Alberta (provinces in Canada) look a *lot* like
my home state, except that the beer's better, and the campbell's soup
labels come in french AND english <g>
I'd venture to say that the presence of museums, let alone really good
ones, is partly dependent on population....I went to my first art museum
in Sacramento, CA a couple of years ago (it was awesome! had a couple of
great 16th c. paintings--a Breughel (sp?) and a Bronzino, and a nice
selection of California landscape paintings that reminded me of earlier
Dutch and Venetian stuff...lots of sky).  Museums here in Montana pretty
much stick to local history and art--interesting, worthy stuff, but not
all that old, in the human scheme of things.
Sorry for rambling on, so....it's that type of slow, warm Saturday
evening.
--Sue

A F Murphy wrote:
> 
> It does also depend a bit on where you are in the USA. I'm in New York
> City, and we aren't all that impressed by 19th century... plenty of that
> around! 18th century varies...
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Subject: Re: State History Museums was: Re: FW: [h-cost] Authenticity of Lucets
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Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2002 20:13:23 -0600
Status: RO

What are the dimensions of England, anyways?
--Sue, trying to gain some sort of geographical perspective....

Betsy Marshall wrote:
> 
> "In America 100 years is a long time.
> In England 100 miles is a long distance."
> it's all due to your frame of reference...
> Betsy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Time and underpinnings
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Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 19:21:48 +0000
Status: RO

> The difference between Europeans and Americans is that Europeans 
> think 100 miles is a long distance, and Americans think 100 years is a
long 
> time.
> 
> (Old joke, but true.)
> 
> Betsy

I like that--it's very good. :)

We Americans forget that we are a very young country. Too many of us,
IMHO. 

Obligatory costume content, and it's a silly question, but I've always
wondered: who invented brassieres and when?


						Arlys

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Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2002 21:08:00 -0600
Status: RO

I agree we forget too often...or perhaps, just aren't made aware of it.
I don't know who invented bras, but I *think* they're 20th c.....but
then, that's not my "time." <weg>
--sue

Cynthia J Ley wrote:
> 

> We Americans forget that we are a very young country. Too many of us,
> IMHO.
> 
> Obligatory costume content, and it's a silly question, but I've always
> wondered: who invented brassieres and when?
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 01:24:10 -0400
Status: RO

Cynthia,

My Thames and Hudson fashion dictionary says 1914 and credits Mary Phelps
Jacobs as the creator of the bra.  But I remember there is a song by Bette
Midler about the invention of the bra.  It was on one of her concert videos.
Anyways, it was funny.  Does anyone remember it... if not, I will go dig up
the video.

I was looking through some very early 1900ish Delineators this morning, and
there are several ads for what looked like bras.  I can't recall exactly
what they were called but I think they were enhancers or supporters.  BUT
they had two cups.  Now that I think of it was 1904 or 1905 Delineators.  A
couple of years ago, I saw ads for this same style in metal.  What caught my
eye this morning, was that these were not metal but the same style but
fabric.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
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Subject: [h-cost] A Great Deal
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 01:53:45 -0400
Status: RO

I came across a great deal that I wanted to share with you all... I still
can't believe it.  People are always writing me from my website telling me
about a valuable antique fashion magazine that they have found in Grandma's
attic.
a. They are wanting me to purchase it.
OR
b.  They are wanting me to appraise it.

A couple of weeks ago a man in Canada wrote me saying that he had a bunch of
Delineator magazines and wanted to know if I wanted to purchase them.  I
asked which issues does he have... I am really looking for 1920-1923 issues.
He sent me back a list by year and month of 108 Delineators between the
years 1890-1907.  He stated that he wanted to sell them as a lot.  Well, I
know what I pay for them, between $15 to $30 each depending on the issue,
and if it is in exception quality a lot more $$$.   I didn't answer him back
for a few days, because I knew the value of that many issues was way out of
my price range.  He wrote me back two more times.  I finally sent him back
an email with a low price, $200, knowing that he would never go for that
price.  HE DID!!!!! And he charged me $20 for shipping from Canada!

Well then I got scared.... $200 for something that I knew was worth so much
more.   So I asked him if I could send him payment by Paypal because they
will guarantee products.  He didn't use paypal.  I was scared... if I sent a
check or money order, it could be cashed too quickly if someone was scamming
me.  My husband suggested that I send half the payment in a money order via
signature mail up front, and upon delivery of the magazines, send the second
half of the payment.  The seller agreed.

Yesterday I received the first box of magazines and today the final box.
Each box weighed 45 lbs. each.  All 108 issues of the magazine were there!!!
They are wonderful!!!

Now my collection of Delineators spans from 1880-1925 and is going to make a
lot of "Year in Fashions."   What a great deal!!!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Great Britian, was Re: State History Museums was:
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 08:43:50 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote: > What are the dimensions of
England, anyways?
> --Sue, trying to gain some sort of geographical perspective....

Uh, I don't have a clue, but it's small, much smaller than germany where I come
from. Ireland rthough is even smaller, took two hours with a bus that stopped
at every nook and crammy to cross the island from Dublin to Galway.
I just found this really good web page, that gives you a very good idea of
things:

http://www.studyabroad-cis.com/greatbritain.html

actually, I didn't know either quite what the differences are between Great
Britian and United Kingdom. Well, I live in England anyway, and as everyone is
probably aware of, England is the 'core' and together with Wales, Scotland and
Northern Ireland it makes Great Britian. Uh, you ppl in the latters, please
don't take the word 'core' politically, I just couldn't think of a better word.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: RE: State History Museums was: Re: FW: [h-cost] Authenticity of Lucets
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 08:53:14 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Betsy Marshall <betsy@softwareinnovation.com> wrote: > "In America 100
years is a long time.
> In England 100 miles is a long distance."
> it's all due to your frame of reference...
> Betsy

Oh yes, and even 'worse' Australians, I talked to a re-enactment friend and she
said they are going drive (!) 1.600 km to visit their parents for a week. WAH!
That's from London to Moscow!!! I wouldn't in my life dream of driving to
Moscow, and they happily drive 900 km for a weekend out in Sydney or a
re-enactment. Holy cow!

Nicole - who LOVES wide open unpopulated spaces, but can't get that here,
though can in Norway.

=====
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Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] actual Texan here--OT on Texas flag
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 08:55:38 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- AnnBWass@aol.com wrote: > Many flags were made of silk, and many silk
textiles are not aging well.  
> Most of you are probably aware of many late 19th century, or even 20th 
> century, silk garments that are shattering.  So the decision not to display 
> this one could be very wise.  Also, most collections now try to rotate all 
> the textiles that are on view, to limit the exposure to light and the stress 
> of display.
> Ann Wass

Yes Ann, thanks, I know all that BUT have you ever seen the large collections
of shattering silk flags displayed in English museums and of course also those
out of commission hanging in churches for centuries until they have turned into
dust? Well, of course they have to be returned to a church when they are no
longer used by the regiment. *S*
I do understand though if you have ONE special flag you don't want it to turn
into dust, certainly not.

Nicole - with a shattering silk fan which will one day be dust too. *sniffle*

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] actual Texan here--OT on Texas flag
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 08:57:47 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote: > 

> Howdy.  ;)

I never heard anyone say that in 'real life' only in films. :-)

> Texas' war of independence from Mexico culminated in victory (for Texas)
> in 1836.  (Mexico had only won its independence from Spain fifteen years
> previously.)  It seems likely that this was the war in question.  A
> synopsis of the six flags of Texas can be seen here:
> http://www.lsjunction.com/facts/6flags.htm

Thanks Melanie, that was an intersting page, never knew all that, as I said, my
knowledge of US history is non-existent but I am always happy to learn bits. I
do like the 'Texas under French rule' flag *grins* Now that's a surprise...

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: State History Museums
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 09:00:33 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- A F Murphy <afmmurphy@earthlink.net> wrote: > It does also depend a bit on
where you are in the USA. I'm in New York 
> City, and we aren't all that impressed by 19th century... plenty of that 
> around! 18th century varies...

I have to say the absolute BEST 19th century silks, embroideries, metal tassels
and laces, linen laces, feathers that I get from ebay are all from America. I
think Europe threw it all away being 'old tat' or something, but the treasures
that come to light from the US on ebay are just amazing.

> And our Museum of the City of New York certainly has many things in it 
> that were not produced here. They have an extensive collection of 17th 
> century articles from the Netherlands, which were brought here by 
> settlers when this area was first colonized as New Amsterdam. These 
> things were used here, but not made here.  Since the city was founded as 
> a seaport and trading post, and has flourished as such ever since 
> (though our methods of trade and transportation have changed *G* ), our 
> history would not be complete without evidence of that trade, which has 
> always been more important to the city than actual manufacture. (Design, 
> yes. Manufacture, no...)

Absolutely, and it IS in my opinion then of utmost local importance, after all,
it was the people who lived there.
Now which museums had the two mantuas from Europe... was one Los Angeles?
Hmm...

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Battle of San Jacinto was: State History Museums
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 09:02:53 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Karen Verschoor <kverscho@wt.net> wrote: > To bring this back to the topic
of costuming -  this battle is reenacted
> every year in (of course) period costume.  Photos of this years reneactment
> can be found on my web page under 2002 projects.
> Karen Verschoor
> Houston, TX
> http://kverschoor0.tripod.com/home.htm

Thankls karen, but talks about museums, history, geography, artefacts, old or
new, countries etc. ARE on topic. Why would that be off topic? It is extremely
important to know about providence of an object I think, and if it was bought
into a museum after the period of the object or if the object in question was
used within the period in a given place. I think it makes a huge difference.

Nicole 

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: State History Museums was: Re: FW: [h-cost] Authenticity ofLucets
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 09:05:48 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Karen Verschoor <kverscho@wt.net> wrote: > The flag in question was from
the Battle of San Jacinto that occurred in
> 1836. 

Battle of San Jacinto?

 This was the battle where Sam Houston and his fellow "Texians"

Sam Houston?

> effected their revenge on Santa Anna for the Alamo.  

Santa Anna?
Alamo?????

Santa Anna was
> literally caught with his pants down as he was being entertained that
> afternoon in his tent by a local "mulatto" slave girl nicknamed "The Yellow
> Rose". 

Oh, is this why there's the song 'the yellow rose of texas?'

Lovely costume, Karen, I don't like the period at all, but I can tell that you
DO like just like a painting, well done!

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 09:21:38 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

Glenda, I did quote you right, didn't I, in my last post? The 1600 and 900 km
distances. My head is still reeling from that.

Anyway, what I meant to ask for a while now, is how many places in the US have
those Ren Faires? It seems to me there are some famous and really big ones and
also smaller ones? I hear so many references to 'going to 'insert faire name''
on this list, but I am just confused by now. Would love to know, because I love
looking at photos from events, all sorts, and that would make searching on
Google easier. I also love looking at finished projects, no matter which
period.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 06:01:57 -0400
Status: RO

The frustrating this is, I just read an article about this within the last
week...and do you think I can remember the name of the woman, or WHERE I
read this information? Arrgh!!

As for the age of our country--we may be a very young country as yet, but
our history is still of value.  The teenager is as valuable as a person as
the great-grandparent.

Doesn't mean I wouldn't love to get to Europe and so some exploring!

Dianne



> > Obligatory costume content, and it's a silly question, but I've always
> > wondered: who invented brassieres and when?
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 06:22:44 -0400
Status: RO

There are Ren Faires everywhere now. There are two in Pennsylvania that I
know of, and I think (not sure, now) that almost every state has at least
one. I used to love the one in Michigan.  Unfortunately, my favorite act
doesn't play the PA Faire--it conflicts with the Texas Faire, which is much
bigger. (sigh.)

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "N Kipar" <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 04, 2002 4:21 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re-enactment travelling & event photos from the world


> Glenda, I did quote you right, didn't I, in my last post? The 1600 and 900
km
> distances. My head is still reeling from that.
>
> Anyway, what I meant to ask for a while now, is how many places in the US
have
> those Ren Faires? It seems to me there are some famous and really big ones
and
> also smaller ones? I hear so many references to 'going to 'insert faire
name''
> on this list, but I am just confused by now. Would love to know, because I
love
> looking at photos from events, all sorts, and that would make searching on
> Google easier. I also love looking at finished projects, no matter which
> period.
>
> Nicole
>
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
> Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: marquis@kipar.org
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Everything you'll ever need on one web page
> from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
> http://uk.my.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Time and underpinnings
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 11:27:43 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Dianne and Greg Stucki <goofy1@suscom.net> wrote: > 
> 
> As for the age of our country--we may be a very young country as yet, but
> our history is still of value.  The teenager is as valuable as a person as
> the great-grandparent.

Dianne, no one ever said it wasn't of value. So please don't feel it was
implied, because I don't think that it was. I'm just not particularly
interested, that is a completely different thing and absolutely personal,
because I am not interested in anything after the 17th century (well, 1715) and
your country just doesn't really have anything of interested until the 17th,
other than the original inhabitants before they were decimated. I'm just not
interested in Native American, we all have different interests, wouldn't it be
terrible if we all had the same??? Oh how boring the world would be without
diversity.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

__________________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 06:56:35 -0400
Status: RO

The SCRIBE network is a good place to start --it is a huge database of
Renaissance Festivals all over the USA and Canada.
http://www.faire.net/SCRIBE/

Most of the Renaissance Festivals have their own websites, and there are
many customers/patrons who have sites full of pictures.  You must
remember that every Renaissance Festival exists for the public, so there
are theatrical choices made in costuming, characters, etc.  Some faires
are more historically focused than others:  The Maryland Renaissance
Festival (MDRF) moves along through Henry VIII's reign a year each
calendar year, but my home festival, the Georgia Renaissance Festival
(GARF), is more fantasy.  At every faire, there will be patrons who are
better dressed than the performers, but patrons have more money to put
into their clothing, and don't work in their clothes all weekend in 95
degrees F/35 Celsius weather.

Ann Neff
SCRIBE associate

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of N Kipar
Sent: Sunday, August 04, 2002 4:22 AM
To: H-Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Re-enactment travelling & event photos from the world

Anyway, what I meant to ask for a while now, is how many places in the
US have those Ren Faires? It seems to me there are some famous and
really big ones and also smaller ones? I hear so many references to
'going to 'insert faire name'' on this list, but I am just confused by
now. Would love to know, because I love looking at photos from events,
all sorts, and that would make searching on Google easier. I also love
looking at finished projects, no matter which period.

Nicole

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re-enactment travelling & event photos from the world
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 12:18:20 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

Thanks Ann! That's a great link, I'll have a blast in the next weeks looking
through the sites and pictures. Ohhh, I see now, so the people like most of you
here on the list are patrons and not performers? I didn't know there were
performers!!! I only heard of the odd costuming guild and thougght that only
exists for Bristol faire. I thought it's like a re-enactment, but different.
(uhm, yes) Where everyone comes in period costume. Oh I see, patrons are in
costume and costumers mostly, performers perform something (I don't have a clue
what?) and then there are visitors in their every day clothing? Do the visitors
pay to get in? Do costumed patrons pay?
So many questions...

Nicole
 --- Ann Neff <aneff@mindspring.com> wrote: > The SCRIBE network is a good
place to start --it is a huge database of
> Renaissance Festivals all over the USA and Canada.
> http://www.faire.net/SCRIBE/
> 
> Most of the Renaissance Festivals have their own websites, and there are
> many customers/patrons who have sites full of pictures.  You must
> remember that every Renaissance Festival exists for the public, so there
> are theatrical choices made in costuming, characters, etc.  Some faires
> are more historically focused than others:  The Maryland Renaissance
> Festival (MDRF) moves along through Henry VIII's reign a year each
> calendar year, but my home festival, the Georgia Renaissance Festival
> (GARF), is more fantasy.  At every faire, there will be patrons who are
> better dressed than the performers, but patrons have more money to put
> into their clothing, and don't work in their clothes all weekend in 95
> degrees F/35 Celsius weather.
> 
> Ann Neff
> SCRIBE associate



=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Time and underpinnings
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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 00:30:57 -0700
Status: RO


>Obligatory costume content, and it's a silly question, but I've always
>wondered: who invented brassieres and when?

The rumor is that Howard Hughes invented the come-shaped modern bra for 
Jane Russell, but bra-like things existed back into the 1920s when corsets 
got short.  Look up that corset website - they'll know, and I bet they'll 
have a picture of it too.


Kayta

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re-enactment travelling & event photos from the world
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 08:00:44 -0400
Status: RO

>From what I've read on this list, some are cast members of faires
(Bristol is one of the more accurate faires), and the others are
patrons.  

Actually, *customers* are not listed in the SCRIBE -- you must be a
participant in some form, but that covers a wide range of involvement.
There are musicians, jugglers, sword comedy acts, birds of prey shows,
etc, who perform, cast members who portray historic figures (or not
historic!), and vendors.  I work for a vendor, so I am a "boothie."  A
faire is supposedly a small village, and the boothowners are the shop
keepers/food vendors.  There are wide variations between faires - the
California faires are very different from most of the rest of the
country. 

Most customers are t-shirt and jeans once-a-season visitor, but those
who come often and in costume are called patrons (or playtrons).  They
have no costuming guidelines and can wear whatever they please, so you
can stand in one place and looking around, see a party dressed in
exquisite reproduction of Elizabeth I paintings, Klingons (StarTrek) in
kilts, and chain mail bikinis (I kid you not). 

To avoid brain bleed from all the anomalies, I think of our faire as
being a    nexus, a little crossroad in time, where we're all just
trying to make a living. :-)

http://www.renfair.com/ is the home page for four of the best faires -
two in California, as well as Bristol (near Chicago) and New York
(state, not city).  

Ann
  

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of N Kipar
Sent: Sunday, August 04, 2002 7:18 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re-enactment travelling & event photos from the
world


Thanks Ann! That's a great link, I'll have a blast in the next weeks
looking through the sites and pictures. Ohhh, I see now, so the people
like most of you here on the list are patrons and not performers? I
didn't know there were performers!!! I only heard of the odd costuming
guild and thougght that only exists for Bristol faire. I thought it's
like a re-enactment, but different. (uhm, yes) Where everyone comes in
period costume. Oh I see, patrons are in costume and costumers mostly,
performers perform something (I don't have a clue
what?) and then there are visitors in their every day clothing? Do the
visitors pay to get in? Do costumed patrons pay? So many questions...

Nicole
 --- Ann Neff <aneff@mindspring.com> wrote: > The SCRIBE network is a
good place to start --it is a huge database of
> Renaissance Festivals all over the USA and Canada. 
> http://www.faire.net/SCRIBE/
> 
> Most of the Renaissance Festivals have their own websites, and there 
> are many customers/patrons who have sites full of pictures.  You must 
> remember that every Renaissance Festival exists for the public, so 
> there are theatrical choices made in costuming, characters, etc.  Some

> faires are more historically focused than others:  The Maryland 
> Renaissance Festival (MDRF) moves along through Henry VIII's reign a 
> year each calendar year, but my home festival, the Georgia Renaissance

> Festival (GARF), is more fantasy.  At every faire, there will be 
> patrons who are better dressed than the performers, but patrons have 
> more money to put into their clothing, and don't work in their clothes

> all weekend in 95 degrees F/35 Celsius weather.
> 
> Ann Neff
> SCRIBE associate



=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Morning all,

Just a quick question - is anyone going to Kirby Hall next weekend?

Regards
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 11:32:48 +0100
Status: RO

Hello Jean

I come across a couple of illustrations, although I don't think they're
on-line.  I think fc's were worn under the coif.  The Ter Borch shows the fc
coming down quite low but I've seen others that only just peep out.

Here's the references:-

Franits, W E   "Paragons of Virtue, Women and Domesticity in C17th Dutch
Art" p 79.  "Seamstress by a Cradle" by Gerard ter Borch

Buck, A  "Clothes and the Child", p189, Mary & Edward Southcote, 1662, at
Ingatestone Hall, Essex

Garland, M   "The Changing Face of Childhood",  p109,  "Child with Dog"
Dutch School, Bearsted Collection

Sorry I can't help with more illustrations at the moment, I'm frantically
trying to finish a bodice for my baby and she's teething !  Help!

Regards

Helen
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jean Waddie" <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: 03 August 2002 21:52
Subject: Re: Dumb question about forehead cloths was:RE: [h-cost] Forehead
Clothes in the Seventeenth Century


Are there portraits of people wearing them?  Did they go over the coif
or under?  I've just recently been investigating religious headcovering,
and having had it pointed out to me, noticing that many women wearing
hijab wear a small cap or tied headscarf underneath, which comes down to
the forehead, and the large headscarf sits further back on the head.  Do
forehead cloths work in a similar way?

Jean Waddie



Helen Edmunds <AAH@helandbel.fsnet.co.uk> wrote
>Saragrace
>
>It's not a silly question :-)
>Yep you're right, the forehead cloth is the triangular-shaped item. My
>understanding, is that it was worn in conjunction with a coif (well, in my
>period) and on the head with the flat edge to the front. Sometimes, you
>can see a faint glimpse of these in the various images of babies in the
>17th C. A friend and I were having just such a discussion yesterday about
>how far over the forehead the fc came! We're not really sure, either!
>Looking at pictorial evidence, it appears that they didn't protrude too
much.
> I've not been too much help, have I?
>
>Regards
>Helen
>  ----- Original Message -----
>  From: Saragrace knauf
>  To: h-costume@indra.com
>  Sent: 03 August 2002 14:17
>  Subject: Dumb question about forehead cloths was:RE: [h-cost]
>  Forehead Clothes in the Seventeenth Century
>
>  Hi Helen, sorry I don't have an answer, but a kind of silly question. I
>  have seen these forehead cloths for years, but always lying flat (to
>  display embellishment usually). I have always wondered how they
>  were worn. I may have seen them on someone and not known what I
>  was looking at. I conjectured in my own mind that they might have
>  been worn in conjunction with an attifet or coif since you often see
>  them together. Assuming we are talking about the same thing-a
>  triangular piece of fabric-,was the pointy end worn to the back of the
>  head (like a kerchief) or did it dangle over the forehead-(hence the
>  name?) Thanks in ad vance,
>
>
>  Saragrace
>
>>    -----Original Message-----
>>    From: h-costume-admin@indra.com
>>    [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On Behalf Of Helen Partner
>>    Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 6:31 AM
>>    To: h-costume@net.indra.com
>>    Subject: [h-cost] Forehead Clothes in the Seventeenth Century
>
>>    Hello everyone,
>>
>>    May I quickly introduce myself as a new subscriber? I'm a UK 17th
>>    Century re-enactor (civilian)who is passionate about creating
>>    clothing that's as near to being an accurate a facsimile as possible.
>>    I've got two children (one 8 and one 5 months) and so my life is
>>    always busy!
>>
>>    I wonder if someone could help with a couple of queries? Does
>>    anyone know whether forehead cloths were de rigeur for both indoor
>>    and outdoor use, both children as well as babies (babies I know
>>    about) and pervaded all levels of the social strata? I know it's
asking
>>    a lot, but any help is appreciated.
>>
>>    Thanks

--
Jean Waddie
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 09:31:32 -0400
Status: RO

I have images in 1922 & 23 catalogs of bras in all shapes and sizes.  Lots
of them!  I get a good giggle from them.  They will all go up on the "Year
in Fashion" for our Costume Society Grant.

Kayta, I am so excited! We get our optical scanner in two weeks!  No more
typing all the articles out!  Thank you so much for the suggestion to get
one!

That will be around the same time as the two Balls.... I might be bubbling
all over!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kirby Hall - History in Action
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 14:51:42 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Helen  Partner <mail@helandbel.fsnet.co.uk> wrote: > Morning all,
> 
> Just a quick question - is anyone going to Kirby Hall next weekend?
> 
> Regards
> Helen


Hi Helen, yes I will be going. As far as I know Teddy, Mel, Jean and Kate are
going too.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: State History Museums was: Re: FW: [h-cost] Authenticity ofLucets
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 09:36:55 -0500
Status: RO

> Battle of San Jacinto?
> Sam Houston?
> Santa Anna?
> Alamo?????
>
> Nicole
Santa Anna was a Napolean-like character in Mexico.  As a successful
military figure, he was elected to the Mexican presidency in 1833, but soon
declared himself dictator.  Texas was then part of Mexico and was settled by
"Anglos" from the northeast and Mexicans from the south.   Relations with
the Mexican government and the Texas colonists went from bad to worse when
Santa Anna came to power.

The Alamo was an old Spanish mission located in the center of modern
downtown San Antonio, TX.  In early 1836, 189 Texian revolutionaries took
refuge in the Alamo.  Some famous characters include James Bowie (of Bowie
knife fame), David Crockett and William Travis.  They defended the mission
for 13 days against Santa Anna and his large army.  The Mexican army was
successful on March 6, 1836 and all of the Texian soldiers were killed.

Sam Houston was a key politcal figure in Texas at the time.  He lead the
Texas revolutionaries against the Mexican army with the famous line
"Remember the Alamo."

San Jacinto is the name of a river near modern Houston, TX.  The Texas
revolutionaries (750) defeated Santa Anna and the Mexican army (1500) in a
battle that occurred near the San Jacinto River and the Buffalo Bayou east
of modern Houston, TX on April 21, 1836.

Texas became an independent country and did not become part of the United
States until Dec, 1845.

Probably more information than you needed or wanted!

Karen Verschoor
Houston, TX


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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 09:45:32 -0500
Status: RO

Um, could you put them up on a web page so we could all have a peak??

Thanks, 

Genie



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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 09:02:24 -0600
Status: RO

I think, too, that how far people in the US travel, depends a lot on
where they are.  The county I grew up in, in Montana, is larger than the
entire *state* of Rhode Island, for instance.  I'm in the SCA, and I
know of areas where it's really thickly populated, and people won't
drive more than an hour or two to get to something, but then, they don't
really have to.  Where I am, it's really not uncommon to drive several
hundred miles to get to something, yes, just for the weekend.  Our
next-nearest large groups in the same "kingdom" are 9 hours, 8 hours,
and 5 hours away, and they're all over a couple of good passes, so add a
few hours for winter travel.
Nicole, how did you first get interested in historical reenactment, in
the first place? Did you study history in college? I think that's what
got me thoroughly hooked, although, unlike you, I've never been able to
*settle* on a time period I'm primarily focused on.  I just seem to like
it all, although with the exception of topics like 19th c. immigration
and ethnic/class stuff in the US, I'm pretty solidly anchored in pre-19
c. Britain/Ireland/Scotland. And I imagine that if I lived back east (a
relative term--most of the US is "back east" for me, but I mean the East
Coast, here), I'd probably be more into American Colonial stuff (the
clothing's fun, as are the differences between colonial arts/crafts and
European ones!).
As far as that goes, how did *any* of you out there get into
clothing/costuming/historical stuff?  I'm not a fashion fiend, by any
definition <g>, so in my case, the historical costuming's a combination
of my loves of history and textiles.....
--Sue, who needs to win the lottery so she can be a perpetual student,
instead of this "making a living" nonsense....;-)

N Kipar wrote:
> 
>  --- Betsy Marshall <betsy@softwareinnovation.com> wrote: > "In America 100
> years is a long time.
> > In England 100 miles is a long distance."
> > it's all due to your frame of reference...
> > Betsy
> 
> Oh yes, and even 'worse' Australians, I talked to a re-enactment friend and she
> said they are going drive (!) 1.600 km to visit their parents for a week. WAH!
> That's from London to Moscow!!! I wouldn't in my life dream of driving to
> Moscow, and they happily drive 900 km for a weekend out in Sydney or a
> re-enactment. Holy cow!
> 
> Nicole - who LOVES wide open unpopulated spaces, but can't get that here,
> though can in Norway.
> 
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
> Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: marquis@kipar.org
> 
> __________________________________________________
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> from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Time and underpinnings
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 07:53:10 +0000
Status: RO

Diane writes:
> As for the age of our country--we may be a very young country as 
> yet, but our history is still of value.  The teenager is as valuable as
a 
> person as the great-grandparent.

Of course (and, btw, I'm an American too). One of the things I find
fascinating about this country is its constant striving to be progressive
while just as constantly striving for tradition. The latter is something
many of us envy about the Old World, and perhaps explains why so many of
us are re-enactors, recreationists, and history buffs!

Re: costume content. Let me know if you remember. Thanks!


					Arlys




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] actual Texan here--OT on Texas flag
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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 12:05:12 -0400
Status: RO

LOL! Don't worry, Nicole, that's the one many Americans don't remember, 
either! We get to five, and then start "Um... I said Spain... um..." 
French rule was pretty short lived.

In answer to an earlier comment, we have 50 states. And all the areas 
have different histories. We all know the essentials that came with 
starting a nation, and have a general idea of the rest, but most of us 
don't (can't, really) know all the detail about the history of every 
area. The entire idea of The United States was a recognition that the 
original 13 colonies had different histories, somewhat different 
cultures (already!) , and different priorities. At the same time, more 
keeps us together than apart, always...

So, yes, even clothing can be different in different parts of the 
country. Partly weather, but largely culture...  to use some extremes, I 
, as a New Yorker, dress differently than the average lady from the 
South. Lots of black, (No, that's not just a joke) very few pastels, 
more tailored, less ruffled... You can spot tourists in midtown, because 
they are wearing shorts. We wear them in our neighborhoods, or if we are 
going to a park, but not in midtown! OTOH, I made the mistake some years 
ago of wearing a black sundress to a county fair upstate... I looked so 
out of place!

Anne

N Kipar wrote:

> 
>
>
>Thanks Melanie, that was an intersting page, never knew all that, as I said, my
>knowledge of US history is non-existent but I am always happy to learn bits. I
>do like the 'Texas under French rule' flag *grins* Now that's a surprise...
>
>Nicole
>
>


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From: "Mary Temple" <noxcat@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: State History Museums was: Re: FW: [h-cost] Authenticity of Lucets
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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 16:21:09 +0000
Status: RO

I also had some problems with that concept - even though I've never been off 
the continent, I have been to New Orleans, which was founded by the French 
in the VERY late 1600's, and became a US posession in early 1800's. The part 
of the US I was born and raised in is over 1100 miles away, and really has 
no seperate history from the US - Ohio became a State in 1802 - the country 
wasn't even 30 years old then. The flag being called "very old" almost made 
me laugh out loud, and did cause some snarky comments between me and my 
in-laws, who had driven down from Dallas, TX for a one day visit - that's a 
3+ hour drive. :)

Mary/Katerine

>Uhm, so the original flag would be just 200 years? And that is 'very old'? 
>Oh
>my.... I am trying to get my head around this way of thinking, but I just 
>had
>my seamstress cut up and put back together over 100 year old lace to make 
>the
>ruffles for my chemise for the mantua, and it seems like using something
>modern. I have pieces of 17th century lace that admittedly I would not 
>consider
>cutting up, but instead I use them whole or for display, and have a late 
>18th
>century fan, that admittedly I wouldn't use, due to it's delicate condition
>(painted silk).
>This is really fascinating, completely different ways of thinking and 
>values.
>200 year old things are considered to be quite modern and just vintage 
>here, at
>least amongst the historians and curators that I know.
>Fascinating!
>Thanks Mary, I'm flabbergasted.
>
>Nicole
>
>=====
>Nicole Kipar M.A.
>Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
>Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
>URL: http://www.kipar.org/
>Email: marquis@kipar.org
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Everything you'll ever need on one web page
>from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
>http://uk.my.yahoo.com
>_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Relative distances and a new topic....
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 12:29:08 -0400
Status: RO

Greetings--

> As far as that goes, how did *any* of you out there get into
> clothing/costuming/historical stuff?  I'm not a fashion fiend, by any
> definition <g>, so in my case, the historical costuming's a combination
> of my loves of history and textiles.....

I'm a history geek (PhD in it) and a craft junkie. I've been doing
embroidery since I was seven or eight, and I learned to sew around the
seventh or eighth grade.  So I suspect my reasons are similar to yours...

   I think what really got me into history--particularly the earlier stuff--
as a kid was a two or three-week "Shakespeare in the schools" program when I
was in the sixth grade--basically, we studied everything about the period,
and then did excerpts from the plays in costume (the woman who ran the
program brought the costumes).  I was hooked. We started making trips to the
Stratford Festival (in Ontario) just before I entered the 10th grade, and
went every year for about seven or eight years after that.

Susan

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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 12:27:59 -0400
Status: RO

LOL! Now that, I can tell you...

Actually, as things are currently, it has varied a bit, Great Britain is 
England, Scotland and Wales. If you add Northern Ireland, you have the 
United Kingdom.

The UK began in 1603, when Elizabeth I died, and her heir was the King 
of Scotland. James the I of England, the VI of Scotland. He united the 2 
nations, got an Act of Parliament,  and ruled them together. England 
already ruled Wales, but I don't remember when that was officially 
added, or Ireland. Most of Ireland gained independence in the early 20th 
century, in a series of steps from Free State to nation, but the Six 
Counties voted to remain part of the UK.  Sorry, I'm hazy on details and 
dates,  25 years since I studied this stuff... I'm sure some of our UK 
list members can add to this!

Only people from England are English. People from Scotland are Scots, 
people from Wales are Welsh, but they are all British. People from 
Northern Ireland are from the UK, and subjects of the Queen, but they 
are not British.

Anne

N Kipar wrote:

>
>actually, I didn't know either quite what the differences are between Great
>Britian and United Kingdom. Well, I live in England anyway, and as everyone is
>probably aware of, England is the 'core' and together with Wales, Scotland and
>Northern Ireland it makes Great Britian. Uh, you ppl in the latters, please
>don't take the word 'core' politically, I just couldn't think of a better word.
>
>Nicole
>
>


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Subject: [h-cost] How I got involved
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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 12:32:21 -0400
Status: RO

--=====================_1420022==_.ALT
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At 09:34 AM 8/4/02 -0600, you wrote:
>As far as that goes, how did *any* of you out there get into
>clothing/costuming/historical stuff?

Well, I've always loved the historical clothing, as far back as I can=20
remember, and I come from a long line of seamstresses, tho Mom doesn't sew=
=20
much anymore.  I got to work at the Sterling NY Renn Faire when I was 17 (I=
=20
think.. it's been a few years, lol!) and loved all the costumes and=20
clothing and some of it blew me away.  The costume they issued me, however,=
=20
didn't fit (and I was a size 16 at the time!!) so I got fed up, had a=20
friend of mine draft me a pattern, and I sewed myself a new outfit for when=
=20
I went back to the Faire as a playtron.  I've been sewing and playing ever=
=20
since.  My heart is in  Elizabethan, however, I've done a cotehardie (and=20
found it comfy, if not the easiest thing to sew... I even filked the=20
experience...) and Italian Renn, and I've been eyeing panniers and pocket=20
hoops with  consideration for years now.  And Himself is into American=20
Civil War, so there's something ELSE for me to research and play with (why=
=20
oh why does he want me to do his uniform???  And where do I find the=20
wool??  Agh!!)

Vik, who's actually going to be able to make something else for herself one=
=20
of these days after I get the paying customers taken care of


=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=
=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=
=B0`=B0=BA=A4
Lady Victoria's Castle Closet:
Custom Clothing and Fine Renaissance Designs
http://www.castlecloset.cc
Gallery: http://bluedragyn.net/~lvcc/castle-creations
15% discount to List Members,

--=====================_1420022==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
At 09:34 AM 8/4/02 -0600, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=3Dcite class=3Dcite cite>As far as that goes, how did *any*
of you out there get into<br>
clothing/costuming/historical stuff?&nbsp; </blockquote><br>
Well, I've always loved the historical clothing, as far back as I can
remember, and I come from a long line of seamstresses, tho Mom doesn't
sew much anymore.&nbsp; I got to work at the Sterling NY Renn Faire when
I was 17 (I think.. it's been a few years, lol!) and loved all the
costumes and clothing and some of it blew me away.&nbsp; The costume they
issued me, however, didn't fit (and I was a size 16 at the time!!) so I
got fed up, had a friend of mine draft me a pattern, and I sewed myself a
new outfit for when I went back to the Faire as a playtron.&nbsp; I've
been sewing and playing ever since.&nbsp; My heart is in&nbsp;
Elizabethan, however, I've done a cotehardie (and found it comfy, if not
the easiest thing to sew... I even filked the experience...) and Italian
Renn, and I've been eyeing panniers and pocket hoops with&nbsp;
consideration for years now.&nbsp; And Himself is into American Civil
War, so there's something ELSE for me to research and play with (why oh
why does he want me to do his uniform???&nbsp; And where do I find the
wool??&nbsp; Agh!!)<br>
<br>
Vik, who's actually going to be able to make something else for herself
one of these days after I get the paying customers taken care of<br>
<br>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
<div align=3D"center">
=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=
=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=
=B0`=B0=BA=A4<br>
<font face=3D"Crusades" size=3D6 color=3D"#800080">Lady Victoria's Castle
Closet:</font> <br>
<font face=3D"Blackadder ITC" size=3D5>Custom Clothing and Fine Renaissance
Designs <br>
</font><a href=3D"http://www.castlecloset.cc/"=
 eudora=3D"autourl">http://www.castlecloset.cc</a><br>
<font face=3D"Book Antiqua, Bookman" size=3D4><b>Gallery</b></font>:
<a href=3D"http://bluedragyn.net/~lvcc/castle-creations"=
 eudora=3D"autourl">http://bluedragyn.net/~lvcc/castle-creations</a><br>
<font color=3D"#800080"><b>15% discount to List Members,<br>
</font></b></div>
</html>

--=====================_1420022==_.ALT--

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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kirby Hall - History in Action
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 17:22:51 +0100
Status: RO

Oh yes, yes, yes!

I will be with the Normans, Nicole is L'Age d'Or, Kate Bunting will be 
in the house playing music and Teddy is going with Paladins of Chivalry.


Anyone else?

Jean

Helen  Partner <mail@helandbel.fsnet.co.uk> wrote
>Morning all,
> 
>Just a quick question - is anyone going to Kirby Hall next weekend?
> 
>Regards
>Helen

-- 
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 17:22:51 +0100
Status: RO

Oh yes, yes, yes!

I will be with the Normans, Nicole is L'Age d'Or, Kate Bunting will be 
in the house playing music and Teddy is going with Paladins of Chivalry.


Anyone else?

Jean

Helen  Partner <mail@helandbel.fsnet.co.uk> wrote
>Morning all,
> 
>Just a quick question - is anyone going to Kirby Hall next weekend?
> 
>Regards
>Helen

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: "Mary Temple" <noxcat@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Great Britian, was Re: State History Museums was:
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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 17:01:30 +0000
Status: RO

Actually, some people from England aren't English - they're British. I met a 
man from up near the Scottish/English border not far from Yorkshire who told 
me about the first time he was called English here in the States. He thought 
they were referring to someone else, because, as he said "I'm not English, 
I'm British. I have no Saxon blood". York was part of England pre 1603, but 
he claimed his ethnicity from further back than England!

Mary/Katerine
>Only people from England are English. People from Scotland are Scots,
>people from Wales are Welsh, but they are all British. People from
>Northern Ireland are from the UK, and subjects of the Queen, but they
>are not British.
>
>Anne


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From: "Mary Temple" <noxcat@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: How I got hooked (was:Re: [h-cost] Re: Relative distances and a new topic...).
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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 17:06:16 +0000
Status: RO

I'm like you - history and textiles led to a natural progression to historic 
clothing. That, in turn, has led me to pay more attention to modern fashion 
- I find myself noticing cut, drape or flow on modern clothes and then find 
myself trying to figure out how it's done. :)

Mary/Katerine
(who also dreams of Independent Wealth)

>As far as that goes, how did *any* of you out there get into
>clothing/costuming/historical stuff?  I'm not a fashion fiend, by any
>definition <g>, so in my case, the historical costuming's a combination
>of my loves of history and textiles.....
>--Sue, who needs to win the lottery so she can be a perpetual student,
>instead of this "making a living" nonsense....;-)
>
>

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Great Britian, was Re: State History Museums was:
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 18:22:07 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Mary Temple <noxcat@hotmail.com> wrote: > 

> they were referring to someone else, because, as he said "I'm not English, 
> I'm British. I have no Saxon blood". York was part of England pre 1603, but 
> he claimed his ethnicity from further back than England!

*laughs* I'm sorry mary, but being an Anglo-Saxonist (and linguist) by trade I
have to say he let out big BS. Even if he claimed his ancestry back to the
Viking raids and later settlements, which would be quite plausible (IF he can
trace his lineage back which is more than dubious) and even if he goes back to
the Angles, Jutes, or whatever you might want to have, it all ends up in the
same germanic pool, just where the saxons came from too.
I have to say though, I agree with him, be careful, never call someone from
outside actually England to be 'English' they usually get quite stroppy, and I
would too! If anyone called me Austrian, I'd get stroppy because I'm German,
and vice versa. Anne was right, from wales is welsh, from scotland is scottish,
from england is english, from northern ireland is... well I shall not say
because I personally think Irish, but hey, too much political stuff in the
baggage.
Funny though that there's a National Museum of Wales, one of Scotland, but none
of England!

Hmmm... I'm a foreigner wherever I am, and I muse.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re-enactment travelling & event photos from the world
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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 10:49:30 -0600
Status: RO

I've never actually been to one of the full-blown, large "RenFaires,"
since I don't exactly live near a city with a large enough population
base or tourist draw to support one.  But there are a bunch, I know
that.  And, from what I understand, there's a whole subculture to them,
just as there is for the SCA (of which I'm a member), or the numerous
other reenactment groups, or the folks who do science-fiction
conventions....
There are also a lot of art/craft fairs here that tend to *style*
themselves as "RenFaires" or "Renaissance Fairs." At these, you get all
kinds of local artists selling lord-knows-what...some of it's fun, some
of it's completely tacky, and it has nothing to do with the renaissance
at all <g>.  Our ethnic mix here is pretty strongly caucasian with some
Native American, but we do have a small, strong community of Hmong and
Vietnamese people, and the Hmong, in particular, show up at these local
arts fairs with some interesting examples of their native arts.
The "fairs" that pop up around here also have local food vendors,
someone doing face painting for the kids, different entertainers, etc.
Do you have equivalents to these in England, Nicole?
--Sue, wondering if all the rain we're getting today is a prelude to
what I can expect when I'm overseas at the end of the month?? <g>

N Kipar wrote:
> 
> Anyway, what I meant to ask for a while now, is how many places in the US have
> those Ren Faires? It seems to me there are some famous and really big ones and
> also smaller ones? I hear so many references to 'going to 'insert faire name''
> on this list, but I am just confused by now. Would love to know, because I love
> looking at photos from events, all sorts, and that would make searching on
> Google easier. I also love looking at finished projects, no matter which
> period.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Great Britian, was Re: State History Museums was:
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 18:27:10 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- A F Murphy <afmmurphy@earthlink.net> wrote: > LOL! Now that, I can tell
you...
> 
> Actually, as things are currently, it has varied a bit, Great Britain is 
> England, Scotland and Wales. If you add Northern Ireland, you have the 
> United Kingdom.
> 
> The UK began in 1603, when Elizabeth I died, and her heir was the King 
> of Scotland. James the I of England, the VI of Scotland. He united the 2 
> nations, got an Act of Parliament,  and ruled them together. England 
> already ruled Wales, but I don't remember when that was officially 
> added, or Ireland. Most of Ireland gained independence in the early 20th 
> century, in a series of steps from Free State to nation, but the Six 
> Counties voted to remain part of the UK.  Sorry, I'm hazy on details and 
> dates,  25 years since I studied this stuff... I'm sure some of our UK 
> list members can add to this!
> 
> Only people from England are English. People from Scotland are Scots, 
> people from Wales are Welsh, but they are all British. People from 
> Northern Ireland are from the UK, and subjects of the Queen, but they 
> are not British.
> 
> Anne

Thanks so much Anne, I am actually saving this email for reference! *laughs*
Ha, and then of course you ahve the... COMMMONWEALTH!
That includes biiiig countries like Canada (yep, they voted to keep our queen
:-) and Australia and New Zealand and lots n lots n lots of teeny 9sometimes
obscure *S*) small countries and islands. I know, coz I just watched 10 days of
wonderful Commonwealth games from manchester, the opening ceremony was just
wonderful. Lots of traditional clothes from the Pacific islands (uhm, was that
the pacific? yes?) and the New Zealand men! WHOOHOO! *thinks she has to move to
Kiwi land*

Well, whatever it is GB or UK, I am sure to be one thing here, a *quote* BLOODY
FOREIGNER! 

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: How I got hooked (was:Re: [h-cost] Re: Relative distances and a new topic...).
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 18:30:28 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

I honestly don't know, I have always been like this, no kidding. My mum keeps
telling me (embarrassing childhood stories abound) that when I was 2.5 or so I
watched a kiddies fairy tales theatre thingy and the Prince was dressed in
pseudo-medieval and I could just talk and was shouting at the top of my lungs
in child-speech 'I could kiss you! i could kiss you!'
*groans*
That must have been the moment I decided I'd go into historical re-enactment.
Honestly, I always dressed mundanely in historical pseudo-costumes (almost
always male) at school and uni, somehow taking the step into re-enactment when
i realised this actually existed, was the most logical thing to do.

Nicole 

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 12:33:42 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Sun, 4 Aug 2002, Victoria Wickens wrote:

> At 09:34 AM 8/4/02 -0600, you wrote:
> I've done a cotehardie (and 
> found it comfy, if not the easiest thing to sew... I even filked the 
> experience...)

Well, that kind of statement can't be left alone.

Lyrics? Tune? Inquiring minds want to know!

--Robin

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Subject: Re: State History Museums was: Re: FW: [h-cost] Authenticity ofLucets
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 18:32:54 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Karen Verschoor 
> Santa Anna was a Napolean-like character in Mexico. 
*big snippage*
> 
> Probably more information than you needed or wanted!

No no, thanks so much, that was great! History in a nutshell, I save this email
too.

Oh, and costume content: my my, didn't the guy playing santa Anna in your
photos look yummy in his Mexican embroidered uniform.
:-))))))

Nicole

=====
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Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 13:10:53 -0500
Status: RO

Penny,

Wow! This must be your reward for giving the world such a great
web site!

Sheryl Nance-Durst

At 01:53 AM 8/4/02 -0400, you wrote:
>I came across a great deal that I wanted to share with you all... I still
>can't believe it.  People are always writing me from my website telling me
>about a valuable antique fashion magazine that they have found in Grandma's
>attic.
>a. They are wanting me to purchase it.
>OR
>b.  They are wanting me to appraise it.
>
>A couple of weeks ago a man in Canada wrote me saying that he had a bunch of
>Delineator magazines and wanted to know if I wanted to purchase them.  I
>asked which issues does he have... I am really looking for 1920-1923 issues.
>He sent me back a list by year and month of 108 Delineators between the
>years 1890-1907.  He stated that he wanted to sell them as a lot.  Well, I
>know what I pay for them, between $15 to $30 each depending on the issue,
>and if it is in exception quality a lot more $$$.   I didn't answer him back
>for a few days, because I knew the value of that many issues was way out of
>my price range.  He wrote me back two more times.  I finally sent him back
>an email with a low price, $200, knowing that he would never go for that
>price.  HE DID!!!!! And he charged me $20 for shipping from Canada!
>
>Well then I got scared.... $200 for something that I knew was worth so much
>more.   So I asked him if I could send him payment by Paypal because they
>will guarantee products.  He didn't use paypal.  I was scared... if I sent a
>check or money order, it could be cashed too quickly if someone was scamming
>me.  My husband suggested that I send half the payment in a money order via
>signature mail up front, and upon delivery of the magazines, send the second
>half of the payment.  The seller agreed.
>
>Yesterday I received the first box of magazines and today the final box.
>Each box weighed 45 lbs. each.  All 108 issues of the magazine were there!!!
>They are wonderful!!!
>
>Now my collection of Delineators spans from 1880-1925 and is going to make a
>lot of "Year in Fashions."   What a great deal!!!
>
>Penny Ladnier
>Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
>http://www.costumegallery.com
>http://www.costumeclassroom.com
>
>
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 13:39:13 -0400
Status: RO

>As far as that goes, how did *any* of you out there get into
>clothing/costuming/historical stuff? 

Short answer: Renaissance Pleasure Faire North, Novato, CA.  
Sunday, October 6, 1990, around lunchtime.  I was 12 and didn't 
want to go.  Mom insisted.  I went sulkingly the whole way to the 
front gate and then my jaw just dropped.  

And the rest, as they say, is living history. ;)

Sarah
http://www.elizabethanlady.com
"Absence of evidence, isn't necessarily evidence of absence." 
-Carl 
Sagan
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 11:32:05 -0700
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  At 09:34 AM 8/4/02 -0600, you wrote:

    As far as that goes, how did *any* of you out there get into
    clothing/costuming/historical stuff?=20

    I began this wonderful journey with the overwhelming desire to own a =
1920s beaded gown.  All those sparklies, that swish and sway of =
refracted light... I finally made my first 20s gown in the mid 1980s.  =
I've made three or four more heavily beaded gowns since, along with a =
few dozen less embellished ones.  I also branched out into Italian Renn =
for faire and somewhere along the line I took up theatrical costuming.  =
(pics of most everything at www.cabbagerosecostumes.com)

    When I think about it, I think the clothes "then" are just more =
interesting than clothing "now."  In the theater I'm forced to jump from =
period to period. I am fanatical about the look of a show being correct =
(for instance, use of obviously 80s prom gowns in a 1930s show will =
drive me over the edge, there might even be blood)... but other than =
that, not really an authenticity seeker, per se.  A good cheat to effect =
the correct appearance is fine on the wicked stage.=20

    I guess for me it's more about beauty (of the clothes), history and =
just being a girly girl.  Even at this age, ha!  Every time someone asks =
this question, I wonder just exactly how I did get from there, to here.  =
I'm not sure the journey was as important as the result. I am here, and =
I love it.

    angela
    +++++
    Angela F. Lazear
    Cabbage Rose Costumes=20
    http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
    Theatrical Costume Design
    "Let me take you a buttonhole lower."
    Love's Labours Lost, V, ii - W. Shakespeare




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<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4807.2300" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV>At 09:34 AM 8/4/02 -0600, you wrote:<BR></DIV>
  <BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dcite cite type=3D"cite">
    <DIV>As far as that goes, how did *any* of you out there get=20
    into<BR>clothing/costuming/historical stuff?&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I began this wonderful journey with =
the=20
    overwhelming desire to own a 1920s beaded gown.&nbsp; All those =
sparklies,=20
    that swish and sway of refracted light... I finally made my first =
20s gown=20
    in the mid 1980s.&nbsp; I've made three&nbsp;or four&nbsp;more =
heavily=20
    beaded gowns since, along with a few dozen less embellished =
ones.&nbsp; I=20
    also branched out into Italian Renn for faire and&nbsp;somewhere =
along the=20
    line I took up&nbsp;theatrical costuming.&nbsp; (pics of most =
everything at=20
    <A=20
    =
href=3D"http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com">www.cabbagerosecostumes.com</=
A>)</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>When I think about it, I think the =
clothes=20
    "then" are just more interesting than clothing "now."&nbsp; In the =
theater=20
    I'm forced to jump from period to period.&nbsp;I am fanatical about =
the look=20
    of a show being correct&nbsp;(for instance, use of obviously 80s =
prom gowns=20
    in a 1930s show will drive me over the edge, there might =
even&nbsp;be=20
    blood)... but other than that, not really an authenticity seeker, =
per=20
    se.&nbsp; A good cheat to effect the correct appearance is =
fine&nbsp;on the=20
    wicked stage.&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I guess for me it's more about =
beauty (of the=20
    clothes), history and just being a girly girl.&nbsp; Even at this =
age,=20
    ha!&nbsp; </FONT><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Every time someone asks =
this=20
    question, I wonder just exactly how I did get from there, to =
here.&nbsp; I'm=20
    not sure the journey was as important as the result. I am here, and =
I love=20
    it.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>angela</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>+++++<BR>Angela F. =
Lazear<BR>Cabbage Rose=20
    Costumes <BR><A=20
    =
href=3D"http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com">http://www.cabbagerosecostume=
s.com</A><BR>Theatrical=20
    Costume Design<BR>"Let me take you a buttonhole lower."<BR>Love's =
Labours=20
    Lost, V, ii - W. Shakespeare</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial=20
size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 13:40:55 -0500
Status: RO

Nicole,

At 12:18 PM 8/4/02 +0100, you wrote:
>Ohhh, I see now, so the people like most of you
>here on the list are patrons and not performers?

Some of us work at the faires, some just pay to get in and play.
I work at one of the bigger faires - Kansas City. I know a couple
other people that work at KC are on this list. But even before
I worked there, I went in costume and played.

>I didn't know there were
>performers!!! I only heard of the odd costuming guild and thougght that only
>exists for Bristol faire. I thought it's like a re-enactment, but different.
>(uhm, yes) Where everyone comes in period costume. Oh I see, patrons are in
>costume and costumers mostly, performers perform something
>(I don't have a clue
>what?)

Okay...I'll describe to you what the Kansas City faire is like. The site is a
partially wooded area spanning 15 acres. The setup is supposed to
be a small village so there are store booths and food booths all around.
(Kansas City has permanent wooden buildings. Some other faires have
temporary booths.) There are also several game booths where patrons
can throw axes, shoot arrows, etc. Then there are stages where musicians,
jugglers, actors and other various entertainers perform every half-hour.
Wandering through the streets are "street characters" - people employed
by the faire to interact with customers and add "color". The king and
queen and the various court members wander around interacting with the
customers and performing pre-scripted scenes every hour or so.
So people who are employed by the faire can be entertainers (stage or
street or court) or boothies (people who help man the booths) or front
gate (people who take the tickets and direct the customers).
All of these people wear costumes. There are others behind the scenes
such as security and coordinators who are not required to wear costumes.

In regards to the costumes - all employees furnish their own costumes.
They have to be approved by the costume mavens. Our faire is more of
a theatrical presentation, so we are not held to strict historical accuracy.
But the costume mavens try to keep us under control.
(Right, Catherine?) ;-)

An interesting note that many people don't know is that many of the
employees - street characters and the like - are not paid. We get fed
and we get in free. However, most of us would be paying lots of money
to get in as customers if we didn't work there. Plus, as an employee
the craft booths give us a 10 percent discount. Sometimes I think of it
as a kind of addiction. After suffering through days of 95 degree heat
(about 35 C, I think) and then days of rain and then some days with a
high temperature of 40 degrees where cloaks and gloves are necessary,
I swear I will never go back. Then in the spring I start looking forward
to it again!

>and then there are visitors in their every day clothing? Do the visitors
>pay to get in? Do costumed patrons pay?

Customers pay to get in. They can choose to come in costume or not.
At our faire, they can wear whatever they want as long as it is decent
(no nudity) and they don't have any weapons (no daggers, swords, etc.).
At our faire, the customers can pay for a 1-day pass, a 2-day pass or
a season pass that gets them in for all 7 weekends.

>So many questions...
>
>Nicole

Hope this explains it a little better!

Sheryl Nance-Durst

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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 11:33:00 -0700
Status: RO

Penny,

That does rock!  I think perhaps the costume gods / goddesses were looking
out for you on that one. It was time for karma to roll back around.

angela
----- Original Message -----
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2002 10:53 PM
Subject: [h-cost] A Great Deal


> I came across a great deal that I wanted to share with you all... I still
> can't believe it.  People are always writing me from my website telling me
> about a valuable antique fashion magazine that they have found in
Grandma's
> attic.
> a. They are wanting me to purchase it.
> OR
> b.  They are wanting me to appraise it.
>
> A couple of weeks ago a man in Canada wrote me saying that he had a bunch
of
> Delineator magazines and wanted to know if I wanted to purchase them.  I
> asked which issues does he have... I am really looking for 1920-1923
issues.
> He sent me back a list by year and month of 108 Delineators between the
> years 1890-1907.  He stated that he wanted to sell them as a lot.  Well, I
> know what I pay for them, between $15 to $30 each depending on the issue,
> and if it is in exception quality a lot more $$$.   I didn't answer him
back
> for a few days, because I knew the value of that many issues was way out
of
> my price range.  He wrote me back two more times.  I finally sent him back
> an email with a low price, $200, knowing that he would never go for that
> price.  HE DID!!!!! And he charged me $20 for shipping from Canada!
>
> Well then I got scared.... $200 for something that I knew was worth so
much
> more.   So I asked him if I could send him payment by Paypal because they
> will guarantee products.  He didn't use paypal.  I was scared... if I sent
a
> check or money order, it could be cashed too quickly if someone was
scamming
> me.  My husband suggested that I send half the payment in a money order
via
> signature mail up front, and upon delivery of the magazines, send the
second
> half of the payment.  The seller agreed.
>
> Yesterday I received the first box of magazines and today the final box.
> Each box weighed 45 lbs. each.  All 108 issues of the magazine were
there!!!
> They are wonderful!!!
>
> Now my collection of Delineators spans from 1880-1925 and is going to make
a
> lot of "Year in Fashions."   What a great deal!!!
>
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 12:39:23 -0600
Status: RO

Gack! Now all I've got in my head are muddled lyrics like:
Alas, my love, you do me wrong,
to dress me thus discourteously,
For I have told you all along,
it's a gown...and not a cote-hardie...."

Thanks *so* much, both of you! ;-P
--Sue

Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
> On Sun, 4 Aug 2002, Victoria Wickens wrote:
> 
> > At 09:34 AM 8/4/02 -0600, you wrote:
> > I've done a cotehardie (and
> > found it comfy, if not the easiest thing to sew... I even filked the
> > experience...)
> 
> Well, that kind of statement can't be left alone.
> 
> Lyrics? Tune? Inquiring minds want to know!
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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 13:43:53 -0500
Status: RO

At 09:02 AM 8/4/02 -0600, you wrote:
>As far as that goes, how did *any* of you out there get into
>clothing/costuming/historical stuff?  I'm not a fashion fiend, by any
>definition <g>, so in my case, the historical costuming's a combination
>of my loves of history and textiles.....
>--Sue, who needs to win the lottery so she can be a perpetual student,
>instead of this "making a living" nonsense....;-)

Well Sue,
I started as a child with dressing up Barbie dolls and designing my own
paper dolls with outrageous costumes. I used to draw dresses and
costumes for fun. Then I learned to sew and went to my first
Renaissance festival. It was all downhill from there! <grin>

Sheryl Nance-Durst

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From: Gia_Gavino@attbi.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Great Deal
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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 17:50:37 +0000
Status: RO

Oh, Penny!  Congratulations on such a *Wonderful* 
score!!!

I can *hardly* WAIT to see what you do with them!!!!

Giacinta
(even though it's not my period I'm crazy/addicted to 
all historical costuming enough to be intrigued)
> I came across a great deal that I wanted to share with you all... I still
> can't believe it.  People are always writing me from my website telling me
> about a valuable antique fashion magazine that they have found in Grandma's
> attic.
> a. They are wanting me to purchase it.
> OR
> b.  They are wanting me to appraise it.
> 
> A couple of weeks ago a man in Canada wrote me saying that he had a bunch of
> Delineator magazines and wanted to know if I wanted to purchase them.  I
> asked which issues does he have... I am really looking for 1920-1923 issues.
> He sent me back a list by year and month of 108 Delineators between the
> years 1890-1907.  He stated that he wanted to sell them as a lot.  Well, I
> know what I pay for them, between $15 to $30 each depending on the issue,
> and if it is in exception quality a lot more $$$.   I didn't answer him back
> for a few days, because I knew the value of that many issues was way out of
> my price range.  He wrote me back two more times.  I finally sent him back
> an email with a low price, $200, knowing that he would never go for that
> price.  HE DID!!!!! And he charged me $20 for shipping from Canada!
> 
> Well then I got scared.... $200 for something that I knew was worth so much
> more.   So I asked him if I could send him payment by Paypal because they
> will guarantee products.  He didn't use paypal.  I was scared... if I sent a
> check or money order, it could be cashed too quickly if someone was scamming
> me.  My husband suggested that I send half the payment in a money order via
> signature mail up front, and upon delivery of the magazines, send the second
> half of the payment.  The seller agreed.
> 
> Yesterday I received the first box of magazines and today the final box.
> Each box weighed 45 lbs. each.  All 108 issues of the magazine were there!!!
> They are wonderful!!!
> 
> Now my collection of Delineators spans from 1880-1925 and is going to make a
> lot of "Year in Fashions."   What a great deal!!!
> 
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Time and underpinnings
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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 11:34:39 -0700
Status: RO


>Of course (and, btw, I'm an American too). One of the things I find
>fascinating about this country is its constant striving to be progressive
>while just as constantly striving for tradition. The latter is something
>many of us envy about the Old World, and perhaps explains why so many of
>us are re-enactors, recreationists, and history buffs!

I've heard rumors that the Germans are big into the American Wild West (and 
into 1950s American 'modern' furniture).  I've also heard that the Japanese 
are big into Scottish anything.  Both of these involve 'historical' 
costumes, I am told.


Kayta

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How I got involved
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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 11:43:44 -0700
Status: RO


>>As far as that goes, how did *any* of you out there get into
>>clothing/costuming/historical stuff?

My mother knew I liked dressing up in costumes when I was little (what 
Americans call dressing up, not what dressing up means in the UK), and she 
got me Davenport's history of costume book, still my favourite.  This led 
to better Halloween costumes, to the SCA, to historical re-enactment and 
living history, to Ren. Faire and Dickens' Fair, and to science fiction 
convention costuming.

Kayta

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Relative distances and a new topic....
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 15:17:35 -0400
Status: RO


----- Original Message -----
From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> > As far as that goes, how did *any* of you out there get into
> > clothing/costuming/historical stuff?  I'm not a fashion fiend, by any
> > definition <g>, so in my case, the historical costuming's a combination
> > of my loves of history and textiles.....


Many, many things--a love of history, reading, and sewing--how else can you
combine all three?  My 9th grade English teacher adored me--when we went as
a class to see A Midsummer Night's Dream, I *got* the humor, and when we
read Macbeth, I understood what was going on!

A dear friend introduced me to the Michigan Ren Faire in 1994, and I've been
hooked ever since.

Dianne

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Subject: Re: State History Museums was: Re: FW: [h-cost] Authenticity ofLucets
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 14:51:21 -0500
Status: RO

> Oh, and costume content: my my, didn't the guy playing santa Anna in your
> photos look yummy in his Mexican embroidered uniform.
> :-))))))
>
> Nicole
>
He was even "yummier" in real life.  And apparently so was the real Santa
Anna in his day.  He was quite the ladies man.  Although the 19th century
take on the story of "the Yellow Rose" was that she sacrificed her honor for
the good of Texas,  modern day historians now see her as quite smitten with
his charm, looks, uniform, etc etc and that she was more than a willing
partner.

Karen Verschoor
Houston, TX

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Greensleeves filk
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 15:29:30 -0400
Status: RO

Oh, fie upon you! Now it's stuck in MY  head!!

Dianne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 04, 2002 2:39 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How I got involved


> Gack! Now all I've got in my head are muddled lyrics like:
> Alas, my love, you do me wrong,
> to dress me thus discourteously,
> For I have told you all along,
> it's a gown...and not a cote-hardie...."
> 
> Thanks *so* much, both of you! ;-P
> --Sue


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Time and underpinnings
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 20:40:16 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote: > 

> I've heard rumors that the Germans are big into the American Wild West (and 
> into 1950s American 'modern' furniture).  

I'm German, but I don't have a clue! Have never ever heard of that, so I don't
know if it is just a wild rumour or true.

Funny though that in the UK there seem to be more American Civil war
re-enactors than English Civil war re-enactors. *LOL* Ahh, but maybe one has to
count all the Commonwealth ones, apparently there are quite a few English Civil
war re-enactors in Australia and New Zealand?

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 17:35:09 -0400
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Vik, for wool have you checked with Stone Mountain and Daughter fabrics? =
They don't have their products online, but they do encourage inquiries =
by email. I'm sure I've heard them recommended for ACW people...

Dianne
  .  And Himself is into American Civil War, so there's something ELSE =
for me to research and play with (why oh why does he want me to do his =
uniform???  And where do I find the wool??  Agh!!)

  Vik, who's actually going to be able to make something else for =
herself one of these days after I get the paying customers taken care of



  =
=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=
=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=
=B0`=B0=BA=A4
  Lady Victoria's Castle Closet:=20
  Custom Clothing and Fine Renaissance Designs=20
  http://www.castlecloset.cc
  Gallery: http://bluedragyn.net/~lvcc/castle-creations
  15% discount to List Members,


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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Vik, for wool have you checked with =
Stone Mountain=20
and Daughter fabrics? They don't have their products online, but they do =

encourage inquiries by email. I'm sure I've heard them recommended for =
ACW=20
people...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Dianne</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">.&nbsp;=20
  And Himself is into American Civil War, so there's something ELSE for =
me to=20
  research and play with (why oh why does he want me to do his =
uniform???&nbsp;=20
  And where do I find the wool??&nbsp; Agh!!)<BR><BR>Vik, who's actually =
going=20
  to be able to make something else for herself one of these days after =
I get=20
  the paying customers taken care of<BR><BR><X-SIGSEP>
  <P></X-SIGSEP>
  <DIV=20
  =
align=3Dcenter>=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8=A4=
=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8=
,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4<BR><FONT=20
  face=3DCrusades color=3D#800080 size=3D6>Lady Victoria's Castle =
Closet:</FONT>=20
  <BR><FONT face=3D"Blackadder ITC" size=3D5>Custom Clothing and Fine =
Renaissance=20
  Designs <BR></FONT><A href=3D"http://www.castlecloset.cc/"=20
  eudora=3D"autourl">http://www.castlecloset.cc</A><BR><FONT=20
  face=3D"Book Antiqua, Bookman" size=3D4><B>Gallery</B></FONT>: <A=20
  href=3D"http://bluedragyn.net/~lvcc/castle-creations"=20
  =
eudora=3D"autourl">http://bluedragyn.net/~lvcc/castle-creations</A><BR><F=
ONT=20
  color=3D#800080><B>15% discount to List=20
Members,<BR></FONT></B></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 16:34:06 -0500
Status: RO

> Um, could you put them up on a web page so we could all have a peak??
>
> Thanks,
>
> Genie

I am not able to put up on a web page, but I did list it on ebay, which you
may see here:
   http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2128236152

I had intended to make some dresses for my daughter from these patterns, but
she grew MUCH too fast.  :-)

Thanks for everyone's help
Denise



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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 15:58:48 -0600
Status: RO

Aaaaah.....the relief is complete! <weg> I've passed it on, and I'm
*free*!
--sue

Dianne and Greg Stucki wrote:
> 
> Oh, fie upon you! Now it's stuck in MY  head!!
> 
> Dianne
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Sunday, August 04, 2002 2:39 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] How I got involved
> 
> > Gack! Now all I've got in my head are muddled lyrics like:
> > Alas, my love, you do me wrong,
> > to dress me thus discourteously,
> > For I have told you all along,
> > it's a gown...and not a cote-hardie...."
> >
> > Thanks *so* much, both of you! ;-P
> > --Sue
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Great Britian, was Re: State History Museums was:
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 23:54:28 +0100
Status: RO

N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote
> --- A F Murphy <afmmurphy@earthlink.net> wrote: > LOL! Now that, I can tell
>you...
>>
>> Actually, as things are currently, it has varied a bit, Great Britain is
>> England, Scotland and Wales. If you add Northern Ireland, you have the
>> United Kingdom.
>>
>> The UK began in 1603, when Elizabeth I died, and her heir was the King
>> of Scotland. James the I of England, the VI of Scotland. He united the 2
>> nations, got an Act of Parliament,  and ruled them together. England
>> already ruled Wales, but I don't remember when that was officially
>> added, or Ireland. Most of Ireland gained independence in the early 20th
>> century, in a series of steps from Free State to nation, but the Six
>> Counties voted to remain part of the UK.  Sorry, I'm hazy on details and
>> dates,  25 years since I studied this stuff... I'm sure some of our UK
>> list members can add to this!
>>
I'm not sure how officially Wales ever was integrated (anyone Welsh 
here?) Hang on, my book here says "by the Statute of Wales of 1284 
(under Edward I) the area was transferred to the King's dominion".  But 
it was long before modern forms of government and parliament were 
thought of, so the King just decided, and England and Wales developed as 
one.  Scotland already had a pretty good parliament by 1603, and by 
1707, when the parliaments were actually combined by the Act of Union, 
they had a total legal system and other institutions distinct, including 
the church, and these carried on through.  (Yes, just to confuse you 
all, Scotland has a separate legal system from England, and things that 
are legal in one are not in the other, and vice versa!)

What is most interesting is how people's identification of themselves 
changes.  In the late 19th century, in the high age of the Empire, 
people thought of themselves as British, they talked of "North Britain". 
I don't know if it has fluctuated through this century, but now they 
have polls that show over the past 10-20 years, more and more people 
think of themselves as Scottish (or English, or Welsh) first, then 
British.

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 17:19:52 -0600
Status: RO

Hi, gang.  I've been doing some more cleaning, and I've got 3 Folkwear
patterns, never used, that I'd like to give to some good homes.  I
inherited them several years ago, when a friend dumped a bunch of stuff
at my house, and never came back (and won't be back).  They're nifty
ethnic patterns, but probably not something I'll ever have the time to
create, even if I *could* fit within their size range.....
The three patterns are:
Afghani Nomad Dress
Syrian Dress
Algerian Suit (has variations for both men and women)

If you're interested in acquiring one of them, please send me an email
(privately), telling me which one. Next Sunday (Aug. 11th), I'll draw
the names of the winners, and contact them to arrange mailing, which
I'll pay for.

--Sue
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 9:39:37 -0500
Status: RO


> 
> Uhm, so the original flag would be just 200 years? And that is 'very old'? Oh
> my.... I am trying to get my head around this way of thinking, but I just had
> my seamstress cut up and put back together over 100 year old lace to make the
> ruffles for my chemise for the mantua, and it seems like using something
> modern. I have pieces of 17th century lace that admittedly I would not consider
> cutting up, but instead I use them whole or for display, and have a late 18th
> century fan, that admittedly I wouldn't use, due to it's delicate condition
> (painted silk).
> This is really fascinating, completely different ways of thinking and values.
> 200 year old things are considered to be quite modern and just vintage here, at
> least amongst the historians and curators that I know. 
> Fascinating!
> Thanks Mary, I'm flabbergasted.
> 
> Nicole

    The difference between Americans and Englishmen, Is that an American considers 200 years a long time, an Englishmen considers 200 miles a long way.

Cheers,
Ron

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Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Time and underpinnings
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 9:58:37 -0500
Status: RO


> 
> From: N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
> Date: 2002/08/04 Sun AM 05:27:43 CDT
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Time and underpinnings
> 

> because I am not interested in anything after the 17th century (well, 1715) and
> your country just doesn't really have anything of nterested until the 17th,
> other than the original inhabitants before they were decimated. 

    Actually, I think the 16th century history of North America is VERY interesting, and far more complicated than most imagine.  Most of that is Spanish, but there are a number of forays into the area by the British, as well as a temporary colony in Baffin bay and the failed colony at Roanoke.

   Of course the 17th century history of British North America is very important to Britain herself, and affects the motherland in many ways.  The mass migrations, the amazing rate that North America is being colonized. The effects of piracy on international trade.  Look how fast New World items become popular, not to mention naval might built with North American naval stores.  

Cheers,
Ron

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To: h-costume@indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Filking Cotehardies
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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 19:35:11 -0400
Status: RO

--=====================_26795811==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 01:53 PM 8/4/02 -0600, you wrote:
>Gack! Now all I've got in my head are muddled lyrics like:
>Alas, my love, you do me wrong,
>to dress me thus discourteously,
>For I have told you all along,
>it's a gown...and not a cote-hardie...."
>
>Thanks *so* much, both of you! ;-P


LOL, Right tune, wrong lyrics (tho those aren't bad!!).  My first cote/gown 
was rust and green parti-colored... got stuck with all this linen from a 
client backing out of wench garb *sigh*.  Never made one of these gowns 
before and so I was flying basically blind.. it's a very simple gown to do 
once you get fitted properly, but "simple" scares the heck out of me (give 
me a full 'Bethan or anything with multitudinous fiddly little pieces and 
I'm perfect).  If anyone wants to see the gown, I'll find somewhere to 
upload the pics.  Until then, I got so frustrated at the bloody thing that 
I filked it midway through making it, and once I filked it, the stupid 
thing went together.  Robin, I'm going to send you the pics for your site, 
since I used your instructions (many times referring back to them)  Tell me 
what I did wrong/right/what needs to be changed etc, but until then, here's 
"Green Sleeve":

Alas, my gown, you do me wrong
to fit me so improperly
for I have sewn you oh, so long,
delighting in the look on me

Green Sleeve was my worst blight
Green Sleeve my stumbling block
Green Sleeve put up a fight
Oh damned be this blasted Green Sleeve!

I pinned and pinned and pinned some more
the rust sleeve went in perfectly
I threw the damned thing on the floor
I've worked it until I can't see!

Green Sleeve defied the pins
Green Sleeve my worst headache
Green Sleeve would not go in
Oh why do I need the Green Sleeve?

I thought to do the hem instead
to give my poor wee mind a break
I used up yards and yards of thread
and sewed until my fingers ached

Green Sleeve you hurt my head
Green Sleeve you bloody thing
Green Sleeve, I finally said
"I'll wear it without the Green Sleeve!"

At last! Success! I got it in!
I triumphed o'er adversity!
I used up every bloody pin
That's done it, no more gowns for me!

Green Sleeve I got you sewn
Green Sleeve plague me no more
Green Sleeve finished my gown
I'm done with that cursed Green Sleeve!!!

If anyone wants to record this, have fun.. I just ask for a copy of the 
finished music and author's credits.

Vik, who filks entirely too much sometimes


Lady Victoria's Castle Closet
http://www.castlecloset.cc
Gallery: http://bluedragyn.net/~lvcc/castle-creations/


--=====================_26795811==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
At 01:53 PM 8/4/02 -0600, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>Gack! Now all I've got in my head
are muddled lyrics like:<br>
Alas, my love, you do me wrong,<br>
to dress me thus discourteously,<br>
For I have told you all along,<br>
it's a gown...and not a cote-hardie....&quot;<br>
<br>
Thanks *so* much, both of you! ;-P</blockquote><br>
<br>
LOL, Right tune, wrong lyrics (tho those aren't bad!!).&nbsp; My first
cote/gown was rust and green parti-colored... got stuck with all this
linen from a client backing out of wench garb *sigh*.&nbsp; Never made
one of these gowns before and so I was flying basically blind.. it's a
very simple gown to do once you get fitted properly, but
&quot;simple&quot; scares the heck out of me (give me a full 'Bethan or
anything with multitudinous fiddly little pieces and I'm perfect).&nbsp;
If anyone wants to see the gown, I'll find somewhere to upload the
pics.&nbsp; Until then, I got so frustrated at the bloody thing that I
filked it midway through making it, and once I filked it, the stupid
thing went together.&nbsp; Robin, I'm going to send you the pics for your
site, since I used your instructions (many times referring back to
them)&nbsp; Tell me what I did wrong/right/what needs to be changed etc,
but until then, here's &quot;Green Sleeve&quot;:<br>
<br>
Alas, my gown, you do me wrong<br>
to fit me so improperly<br>
for I have sewn you oh, so long,<br>
delighting in the look on me<br>
<br>
Green Sleeve was my worst blight<br>
Green Sleeve my stumbling block<br>
Green Sleeve put up a fight<br>
Oh damned be this blasted Green Sleeve!<br>
<br>
I pinned and pinned and pinned some more<br>
the rust sleeve went in perfectly<br>
I threw the damned thing on the floor<br>
I've worked it until I can't see!<br>
<br>
Green Sleeve defied the pins<br>
Green Sleeve my worst headache<br>
Green Sleeve would not go in<br>
Oh why do I need the Green Sleeve?<br>
<br>
I thought to do the hem instead<br>
to give my poor wee mind a break<br>
I used up yards and yards of thread<br>
and sewed until my fingers ached<br>
<br>
Green Sleeve you hurt my head<br>
Green Sleeve you bloody thing<br>
Green Sleeve, I finally said<br>
&quot;I'll wear it without the Green Sleeve!&quot;<br>
<br>
At last! Success! I got it in!<br>
I triumphed o'er adversity!<br>
I used up every bloody pin<br>
That's done it, no more gowns for me!<br>
<br>
Green Sleeve I got you sewn<br>
Green Sleeve plague me no more<br>
Green Sleeve finished my gown<br>
I'm done with that cursed Green Sleeve!!!<br>
<br>
If anyone wants to record this, have fun.. I just ask for a copy of the
finished music and author's credits.<br>
<br>
Vik, who filks entirely too much sometimes<br>
<br>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
Lady Victoria's Castle Closet<br>
<a href="http://www.castlecloset.cc/" eudora="autourl">http://www.castlecloset.cc</a><br>
<font size=4>Gallery:
<a href="http://bluedragyn.net/~lvcc/castle-creations/" eudora="autourl">http://bluedragyn.net/~lvcc/castle-creations/</a><br>
<br>
</font></html>

--=====================_26795811==_.ALT--

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Aug  4 20:42:28 2002
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From: "Kendra Van Cleave" <kendrav@attbi.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pattern age id
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 17:06:45 -0700
Status: RO

Well, looking at my copy of _Blueprints of Fashion_, which is on the 1940's
(there's also a volume on the 1950's which I don't have), I'd date the first
(with the two boys and one girl) as 1947, and the second (three girls) as
1951-56.

On the first, the pattern envelope design dates from 1947-56, and the
pattern number 2022 fits in the range used in 1947.  The second pattern
envelope design fits the same date range, with $0.35 price patterns
introduced in 1951.  I can't see the pattern number on this one, and my book
only gives pattern numbers for the 1940's, so I can't date it any more
conclusively.

- Kendra



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Aug  4 21:02:37 2002
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From: "Helen  Partner" <mail@helandbel.fsnet.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kirby Hall - History in Action
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 17:23:28 +0100
Status: RO

Hello All

Anyone fancy meeting up at KH?  We're (daughters and myself) not
"performing" but will probably get "in kit" (weather and baby-permitting)
for some of the time, so our time is our own.  Our group is finished by 1pm.
Any takers?
Regards

Helen
----- Original Message -----
From: "N Kipar" <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: 04 August 2002 14:51
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kirby Hall - History in Action


> --- Helen  Partner <mail@helandbel.fsnet.co.uk> wrote: > Morning all,
> >
> > Just a quick question - is anyone going to Kirby Hall next weekend?
> >
> > Regards
> > Helen
>
>
> Hi Helen, yes I will be going. As far as I know Teddy, Mel, Jean and Kate
are
> going too.
>
> Nicole
>
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
> Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: marquis@kipar.org
>
> __________________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Aug  4 21:03:37 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] How I got involved
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Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 10:31:24 +1000
Status: RO

At 11:43 AM 8/4/02 -0700, you wrote:

>>>As far as that goes, how did *any* of you out there get into
>>>clothing/costuming/historical stuff?
I blame it on my teenage years.
I lived in Kent, England for a while, mainly through secondary school. In 
second year we studied the end of the War of the Roses through to Elizabeth 
I. Our history teacher came up with fun projects including "researching" 
Elizabethan makeup and a trip to Deal castle where we dress up in tudor 
peasant dress (including a coif) and did dances (which I have later seen in 
period dance books).
That plus wandering around Kent watching the various reenactment groups 
when they did public demos got me very interested  plus the fact I love 
archeology and old languages.
I still read a lot of history and archeology books. We moved back to 
Australia by my father's decree and now I'm doing a science degree (my 
parents choice) which while I can do, it my hearts not really in it and 
people keeping telling me I should transfer to arts and do history and 
archeology.
I have a UK passport so hopefully one day I'll move back.

Sharon Nevin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kirby Hall - History in Action
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 18:57:53 +0100
Status: RO

Is anyone else bringing children?  Or am I the only mad one!

Regards

Helen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jean Waddie" <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: 04 August 2002 17:22
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kirby Hall - History in Action


Oh yes, yes, yes!

I will be with the Normans, Nicole is L'Age d'Or, Kate Bunting will be 
in the house playing music and Teddy is going with Paladins of Chivalry.


Anyone else?

Jean

Helen  Partner <mail@helandbel.fsnet.co.uk> wrote
>Morning all,
> 
>Just a quick question - is anyone going to Kirby Hall next weekend?
> 
>Regards
>Helen

-- 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kirby Hall - History in Action
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 18:57:53 +0100
Status: RO

Is anyone else bringing children?  Or am I the only mad one!

Regards

Helen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jean Waddie" <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: 04 August 2002 17:22
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kirby Hall - History in Action


Oh yes, yes, yes!

I will be with the Normans, Nicole is L'Age d'Or, Kate Bunting will be 
in the house playing music and Teddy is going with Paladins of Chivalry.


Anyone else?

Jean

Helen  Partner <mail@helandbel.fsnet.co.uk> wrote
>Morning all,
> 
>Just a quick question - is anyone going to Kirby Hall next weekend?
> 
>Regards
>Helen

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Aug  4 21:33:48 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Great Britian, was Re: State History Museums was:
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 19:04:56 +0100
Status: RO

Nicole
"Funny though that there's a National Museum of Wales, one of Scotland, but
none
> of England!"

Ahh, but there *is* an English Heritage!  As well as CADW (the Welsh
Version) etc



Regards

H

----- Original Message -----
From: "N Kipar" <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: 04 August 2002 18:22
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Great Britian, was Re: State History Museums was:


> --- Mary Temple <noxcat@hotmail.com> wrote: >
>
> > they were referring to someone else, because, as he said "I'm not
English,
> > I'm British. I have no Saxon blood". York was part of England pre 1603,
but
> > he claimed his ethnicity from further back than England!
>
> *laughs* I'm sorry mary, but being an Anglo-Saxonist (and linguist) by
trade I
> have to say he let out big BS. Even if he claimed his ancestry back to the
> Viking raids and later settlements, which would be quite plausible (IF he
can
> trace his lineage back which is more than dubious) and even if he goes
back to
> the Angles, Jutes, or whatever you might want to have, it all ends up in
the
> same germanic pool, just where the saxons came from too.
> I have to say though, I agree with him, be careful, never call someone
from
> outside actually England to be 'English' they usually get quite stroppy,
and I
> would too! If anyone called me Austrian, I'd get stroppy because I'm
German,
> and vice versa. Anne was right, from wales is welsh, from scotland is
scottish,
> from england is english, from northern ireland is... well I shall not say
> because I personally think Irish, but hey, too much political stuff in the
> baggage.
> Funny though that there's a National Museum of Wales, one of Scotland, but
none
> of England!
>
> Hmmm... I'm a foreigner wherever I am, and I muse.
>
> Nicole
>
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
> Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: marquis@kipar.org
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Everything you'll ever need on one web page
> from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
> http://uk.my.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 17:16:36 -0700
Status: RO

Greetings to one and all,
    I have been working on my webpage (I design and create beaded 
jewelry).  I would like to add some the best webpage links that have to 
do with medieval and Ren costuming.  Please feel free to share with me 
your favorites.  Thanks!

Roscelin

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Aug  4 21:34:37 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Great Deal
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 21:12:44 -0400
Status: RO

Thanks Angela!  I wish I had time to look through all of the right now.  I
am working on my 1920s ball gown.  The ball is two weeks from tomorrow.
After two mock-ups, I am moving on to the *real* thing.  The pattern fits
like a glove now.

What I have seen scanning through the magazines, is great.  It is wonderful
to see a whole year at a time and see the fads and the evolution of the
fashions.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: State History Museums was: Re: FW: [h-cost] Authenticity ofLucets
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 20:20:53 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO

On Sun, 4 Aug 2002, Karen Verschoor wrote:

> He was even "yummier" in real life.  And apparently so was the real
> Santa Anna in his day.  He was quite the ladies man.  Although the
> 19th century take on the story of "the Yellow Rose" was that she
> sacrificed her honor for the good of Texas, modern day historians now
> see her as quite smitten with his charm, looks, uniform, etc etc and
> that she was more than a willing partner.

Wasn't it on this list a few months ago that we had a discussion of the
term "yellow rose" and possible connection to clothing references
regarding prostitutes? It was during that discussion someone noted that
the famous Yellow Rose of Texas who distracted Santa Anna was most likely
mythical. I heard exactly the same thing on an NPR radio interview a few
weeks ago. The speaker was one of a team that had been researching the
history of women spies, and said that they had tried very hard to find
some support for the story of Yellow Rose and Santa Anna, but there's not
a shred of evidence, apparently. But it's a good story, with a lot of
urban legend archetypes (powerful man brought down by lust, lowly female
who saves her people, etc.) so little wonder it has caught on and endured.

--Robin

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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 21:27:08 -0400
Status: RO

Thank you Gia!  We have the 1920s Costume Society grant project to work on
first.  That will be massive undertaking.  We are in the scanning process
now. Then we are doing a 1920s Designers' Index.  We have a grant proposal
out for that one now.

THEN we will get to the other years.  Gosh, I wish we had funding to hire
more people to work on these projects.  But Susan and I are learning so much
as we move through these projects.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Subject: [h-cost] Renaissance Faires in the U.S.
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 21:56:08 EDT
Status: RO

Hi all --

One of the best resources for finding locations of Renaissance Faires in the 
U.S. is the listings in Renaissance Magazine.  You can see their website: 
www.renaissancemagazine.com. I live in the Los Angeles area and the origins 
of what is now known as "Renaissance Faires" began here in Agoura in the 
1960s.  It later transferred to Glen Helen Regional Park in Devore (San 
Bernadino) in 1989 and this summer we celebrated 40 years of Maytime faire!   
I have been working there for the past 13 years as a sign language 
interpreter for the stage shows.  California, because of the reasonably good 
weather, is able to have Ren Faires from March to November.  November - 
February is usually taken up with various Dickens Victorian Faires.  I have a 
Fyne Hats By Felicity booth at some of the smaller California faires, but 
with my catalog (previously) and now my website I have been sending hats 
coast to coast.  Anyway I digress.....  Renaissance Faires are all over the 
US and Canada.  In Europe it is more medieval faires and in England they 
mostly concentrate on their English Civil War Period, some medieval and very 
little (almost none) renaissance. 
I hope this helps to answer your query Nicole. :)

Anon,
Donna Scarfe
Fyne Hats By Felicity
Period Headgear for Past Ages
www.fynehatsbyfelicity.com
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From: Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: State History Museums was: Re: FW: [h-cost] Authenticity
  ofLucets
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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 21:58:22 -0400
Status: RO

At 08:20 PM 8/4/02 -0500, you wrote:

>Wasn't it on this list a few months ago that we had a discussion of the
>term "yellow rose" and possible connection to clothing references
>regarding prostitutes? It was during that discussion someone noted that
>the famous Yellow Rose of Texas who distracted Santa Anna was most likely
>mythical. I heard exactly the same thing on an NPR radio interview a few
>weeks ago. The speaker was one of a team that had been researching the
>history of women spies, and said that they had tried very hard to find
>some support for the story of Yellow Rose and Santa Anna, but there's not
>a shred of evidence, apparently. But it's a good story, with a lot of
>urban legend archetypes (powerful man brought down by lust, lowly female
>who saves her people, etc.) so little wonder it has caught on and endured.
>
>--Robin
>

 Curious, my understanding was that a "Yellow Rose" was a mulatto woman.
That might be supported by the original song lyrics references to "darkies"
later balderdash typically to soldier.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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Subject: Re: State History Museums was: Re: FW: [h-cost] Authenticity ofLucets
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 20:57:16 -0500
Status: RO

She has a real name: Emily Morgan.  If she is mythical, she is a well
documented myth:
http://www.tsha.utexas.edu/handbook/online/articles/view/WW/fwe41.html
http://www.nwwin.com/morganspoint.tx/rose.htm
http://www.markw.com/yelrose.htm
http://www.texancultures.utsa.edu/publications/yellowrose/yellowrose.htm
http://alamo-de-parras.welkin.org/archives/yellowrose/yelrose.html

It appears the myth is that she purposely distracted Santa Anna for the good
of the revolution.  Current historians now see her as oblivious to the cause
and one of many of Santa Anna's diversions.

Karen Verschoor
Houston, TX
> Wasn't it on this list a few months ago that we had a discussion of the
> term "yellow rose" and possible connection to clothing references
> regarding prostitutes? It was during that discussion someone noted that
> the famous Yellow Rose of Texas who distracted Santa Anna was most likely
> mythical. I heard exactly the same thing on an NPR radio interview a few
> weeks ago. The speaker was one of a team that had been researching the
> history of women spies, and said that they had tried very hard to find
> some support for the story of Yellow Rose and Santa Anna, but there's not
> a shred of evidence, apparently. But it's a good story, with a lot of
> urban legend archetypes (powerful man brought down by lust, lowly female
> who saves her people, etc.) so little wonder it has caught on and endured.
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Great Britian, was Re: State History Museums was:
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 18:54:36 -0700
Status: RO

At 11:54 PM +0100 8/4/02, Jean Waddie wrote:

>I'm not sure how officially Wales ever was integrated (anyone Welsh 
>here?) Hang on, my book here says "by the Statute of Wales of 1284 
>(under Edward I) the area was transferred to the King's dominion".


I'm not Welsh, but I'm a student of the topic.  While the integration 
of Wales into English administration was a gradual process between 
the late 13th and 16th centuries, the key date is generally 
considered to be the Act of Union in 1536, whose effect was to erase 
the existence of Wales as a separate legal entity from England.  The 
stated intent was also to erase the social and linguistic differences 
between the two, but that part didn't succeed nearly as well (thank 
goodness).

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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From: Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Re:Difference s (was Authenticity of Lucets)
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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 21:56:04 -0400
Status: RO

At 09:39 AM 8/4/02 -0500, you wrote:
>
>
>    The difference between Americans and Englishmen, Is that an American
considers 200 years a long time, an Englishmen considers 200 miles a long way.
>
>Cheers,
>Ron


 For what it is worth I posted this way back this morning.  I have no idea
why it took so long to appear.  (Still even then it was dreadfully redundant).

        Along those lines, I am having all sorts of trouble posting to the
list.  Just about everyt other post bouinces back to me (though this last
one was sent from work).

I remain,

Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From: Charlene Charette <perronnelle@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renaissance Faires in the U.S.
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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 23:31:22 -0500
Status: RO

FyneHats2@aol.com wrote:

> One of the best resources for finding locations of Renaissance Faires in the
> U.S. is the listings in Renaissance Magazine.  You can see their website:
> www.renaissancemagazine.com. I live in the Los Angeles area and the origins

I missed the original question for this.  http://www.faires.com/ has a
listing of faires / festivals / reenactments worldwide.

--Charlene

-- 
As grown-ups, we never get to "wave bye-bye."  I think it would be fun. 
"Steve, the boss is sailing for Europe; we're all going down to the dock
to wave bye-bye."  -- George Carlin
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Subject: Re: State History Museums was: Re: FW: [h-cost] Authenticity  ofLucets
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 21:21:43 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Sun, 4 Aug 2002, Ron Carnegie wrote:

>  Curious, my understanding was that a "Yellow Rose" was a mulatto
> woman.

IIRC the question first arose because someone was trying to connect yellow
with prostitutes in some particular time/place, and someone else asked
about the "Yellow Rose," who was presumably a prostitute. A more informed
poster, whose identity I can't recall, explained that the so-called
"yellow girls" were called that because they mixed race (as you state),
and it wasn't a reference to the wearing of yellow.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re-enactment travelling 
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 12:44:15 +1000
Status: RO

Nicole,

> Glenda, I did quote you right, didn't I, in my last post? The 1600 and 900
km
> distances. My head is still reeling from that.

Yep. It's just what you're used to, I suppose. A group of reenactors from
Perth come across to the East coast once every two years for our biannual
'medieval' conference. They travel non-stop for 4 days, stay for 4-6, and go
back again. Last time for them was over 4000kms each way in a very packed
motorhome, and yes, they were stir crazy when they finished the trip. (I'm
fairly sure they passed the time by singing 1000 green bottles at one stage
too!)

On the other hand, we've been looking through the Ordnance survey maps of
Britain trying to organise our tour next year and I was worried by
travelling three maps-worth distance in a day - that is until I looked up
the scale, and found it was only 200km! Easy! On similar maps of Australia
you'd be looking at 500-600km, which is only a problem if you want to stop
to see things!

Glenda.


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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 22:58:55 -0700
Status: RO

Actually, when I was in Germany (1989-1992) our family's favorite daytrip 
spot was a place called "No Name City."  Since I was really little I don't 
remember where it was exactly - it was a long drive, and the directions were 
somewhat faulty anyway - but I *do* remember that that was when I was going 
through my horsey-stage, and I had just discovered Paul Gobel, and was duly 
impressed by the *real* American Indian they had there at the park. :)  He 
had an appaloosa and all the trappings, and if I remember correctly, his 
name was Buffalo Child, and he was Sioux.  I remember being just happy to 
hear someone speaking English with a California accent again.   But yeah... 
Germany loves the Wild West... I think there was even a popular kids cowboy 
cartoon show, something like "Cool Hand Luke".  I would go on, but it'd get 
even further off topic. :)

-Laura



Message: 3
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 20:40:16 +0100 (BST)
From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Time and underpinnings
To: h-costume@indra.com
Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com

  --- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote: >

 > I've heard rumors that the Germans are big into the American Wild West 
(and
 > into 1950s American 'modern' furniture).

I'm German, but I don't have a clue! Have never ever heard of that, so I 
don't
know if it is just a wild rumour or true.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re-enactment travelling 
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 08:15:32 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Glenda Robinson <glendar@compassnet.com.au> wrote: > 

First of all congratuations to all Aussies for the winning of the most gold
medals in the Commonwealth games. :-)

> Yep. It's just what you're used to, I suppose. A group of reenactors from
> Perth come across to the East coast once every two years for our biannual
> 'medieval' conference. They travel non-stop for 4 days, stay for 4-6, and go
> back again. Last time for them was over 4000kms each way in a very packed

F... F... F... FOURthousand kilometers??????????????
*faints*
Ohmigod.
Okay, now that is taking re-enactment, history, historical costumes SERIOUSLY!
Gods, Australia is so big, I can't even imagine distances like that.

> motorhome, and yes, they were stir crazy when they finished the trip. (I'm
> fairly sure they passed the time by singing 1000 green bottles at one stage
> too!)

*whistles and goes stir crazy just thinking of that song*

> On the other hand, we've been looking through the Ordnance survey maps of
> Britain trying to organise our tour next year and I was worried by
> travelling three maps-worth distance in a day - that is until I looked up
> the scale, and found it was only 200km! Easy! On similar maps of Australia
> you'd be looking at 500-600km, which is only a problem if you want to stop
> to see things!

*laughs!*
Are you going to Canterbury too? I'd love to meet up with all of you somewhere
and go for a nibble and a drink.

How's the stitching coming along? I took ben's red coat apart again to put more
silver lace on and properly finish it. *groans* I hate doing that! And tehn I
have to make all my skirts tighter because I lost weight. The later is nice,
the former is most annoying.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 08:25:18 +0100
Status: RO

On 4 Aug 2002 at 14:51, N Kipar wrote:

>  --- Helen  Partner <mail@helandbel.fsnet.co.uk> wrote: > Morning all,
> > 
> > Just a quick question - is anyone going to Kirby Hall next weekend?
> > 
> > Regards
> > Helen
> 
> 
> Hi Helen, yes I will be going. As far as I know Teddy, Mel, Jean and Kate are
> going too.
> 
> Nicole

So far next weekend is only double-booked, not 
triple. I'll add Kirby Hall to the list and see how I feel 
and what the weather's doing.



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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 08:25:17 +0100
Status: RO

On 4 Aug 2002 at 9:36, Karen Verschoor wrote:

> Texas became an independent country and did not become part of the United
> States until Dec, 1845.

The Texan Embassy building in London still exists, 
and is now a *very* good restaurant, serving "Texan" 
food. Yet more info can be found all over its walls.





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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 08:25:18 +0100
Status: RO

On 4 Aug 2002 at 8:43, N Kipar wrote:

>  --- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote: > What are the dimensions of
> England, anyways?
> > --Sue, trying to gain some sort of geographical perspective....
> 
> Uh, I don't have a clue, but it's small, 

I can't remember dimensions, either, but I suspect a 
lot of the difference in how we see distances is due 
to time, not miles. Most of our roads not only weren't 
designed for cars, they weren't designed for horse 
and carriage, either. They've been upgraded, but the 
layout is still cramped. And we have a high-density 
population.

So 100 miles is about 1.5 hours if you're lucky 
enough to get a motorway route, more like 3-4 hours 
if you're driving through towns, and most of the day 
if on public transport. 1.5 hours is a big chunk out of 
my life. If an event is 100 miles away, it would have 
to be pretty good for me to take the time to go there.



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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renaissance Faires in the U.S.
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 08:33:37 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- FyneHats2@aol.com wrote: > 
> coast to coast.  Anyway I digress.....  Renaissance Faires are all over the 
> US and Canada.  In Europe it is more medieval faires and in England they 
> mostly concentrate on their English Civil War Period, some medieval and very 
> little (almost none) renaissance. 

Thanks Felicity. Though I have to correct you on something, it's not mainly ECW
in England, there are LOTS of Napoleonics, medieval, ACW, and in fact, almost
every period you can think of. What we don't have here is faires, that's
probaby because what we have is re-enactment.
You are right about medieval faires though, you find lots of them in germany,
and most are 'how the middle ages should have been'. *laughs*
You are also right about the 16th century, or what American seem to call the
Renaissance, which, technically and art historically isn't the Renaissance at
all. :-) There is almost nothing here, people doing the 1st person Tudor thing
at Kentwell but proper re-enactment? Friends do 16th century seamen, but
otherwise even if I had a costume from Margo's patterns, I wouldn't know
whereand when to wear it. *pout8
Also, in England you are _NOT_ allowed to come in costume to a re-enactment
event, only invited and participating re-enactment groups and societies. All
vistitors must be dressed mundanely. It's a completely different culture,
re-enactment in England and Ren Faires in the US, and I tell you something,
from the sound of it, I like both ideas! I wouldn't possibly want to live in a
place where here is no re-enactment like here, but I would love to visit such a
Faire, and wear whatever costumes I want and not give a rat's bottom about a
little machine stitched seam being seen. *grins* Oh bliss. 
Can you tell my RSI is playing up again? ;-)

Nicole - who just loves costumes.

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 08:25:17 +0100
Status: RO

On 4 Aug 2002 at 18:22, N Kipar wrote:
> *laughs* I'm sorry mary, but being an Anglo-Saxonist (and linguist) by trade I
> have to say he let out big BS. Even if he claimed his ancestry back to the
> Viking raids and later settlements, which would be quite plausible (IF he can
> trace his lineage back which is more than dubious) and even if he goes back to
> the Angles, Jutes, or whatever you might want to have, it all ends up in the
> same germanic pool, just where the saxons came from too.

I suppose it's possible that he's traced his ancestry 
back to before the Saxon invasion. Seems wildly 
unlikely to me, given the lack of documentation for 
that period, but you never know. 

Or it could be a reference to "English" coming from 
"Angle", and he's descended from a *different* 
bunch of Saxons....? Or Normans, going later in 
period? But to say there's *no* English blood, he 
must have traced every branch back: I'm impressed!







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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Time and underpinnings
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 08:44:51 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- vze2brpf@verizon.net wrote: > 

>     Actually, I think the 16th century history of North America is VERY
> interesting, and far more complicated than most imagine.  Most of that is
> Spanish, but there are a number of forays into the area by the British, as
> well as a temporary colony in Baffin bay and the failed colony at Roanoke.

That, my dear, is fortunately personal preferences, as I always say, wouldn't
it be boring if everyone were interested/liked the same.

>    Of course the 17th century history of British North America is very
> important to Britain herself, and affects the motherland in many ways.  The
> mass migrations, the amazing rate that North America is being colonized. The
> effects of piracy on international trade.  Look how fast New World items
> become popular, not to mention naval might built with North American naval
> stores.  

I disagree. It doesn't affect my research in any particularly big way. It
wasn't that the colonies particularly affected the motherland regarding dress,
but vice versa. The few 17th c. paintings from the colonies I have seen did not
show any particular differences. Anyway, what I research is not the colonies
(why would I?) but Europe, Britain, Holland and France.
Now, the use and import of cotton though, is another matter, and qite
interesting, but I shall come to it after I have found the answers to a few
other questions. :-) Actually, the import of textiles from places like India
and  even China are of greater impact and importance than the colonies.
Sorry Ron, I just have no interest in America and probably will never have. No
offense meant. It's good that others do, after all, it's your country, but it
just isn't mine and shall never ever be. *S*

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 08:53:06 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Jane Williams <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk> wrote: > 

> I can't remember dimensions, either, but I suspect a 
> lot of the difference in how we see distances is due 
> to time, not miles. 

You are so right Jane, I didn't think about/realise that!
It took us, when we did the event at Hounslow, 4 hours to get to it!!! That
although it should have been 1.5, it was only from the Medway towns (south-east
corner) to London Hounslow (diagonally up Northerly to the West).
If you live in the South East or anywhere near a big city like Manchester etc.
there is NO way you can ever know how long a journey will take. Every day, and
I mean EVERY day there are holdups, accidents, even closures on the trafic
report on the M25, and teh M25 goes all around Greater London and affects
counties such as kent, Surrey, Sussex, Essex, etc. It is a nightmare, believe
me, you lucky, lucky people with miles and miles of open space, it is a total
nightmare to live here in that respect, and yes, the small size and utter
crampedness of particularly the South of England is what I HATE about this
country and I do want to move up North eventually, to Yorkshire. Love
Humberside, enjoyed Hull, adore York and the Dales.

Thus, often when there is an event we have to really think about it. For
example the Wardrobe costume guild one in November, it means half way along the
M25, and yes we really have to think if we can go. Journeys are impossible to
ever guess, it has taken me 10 (!) hous before to get to York.

So I warn you, all travellers, if you come to England and rent a car, please
bear this in mind if you wish to visit many Costume related laces in the South
and ave a tight schedule.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How I got involved
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 08:37:06 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Sharon Nevin <koidgath@optusnet.com.au> wrote: > 

> I lived in Kent, England for a while, mainly through secondary school. In 

Kent's lovely, isn't it? Just far too many people and cars! That's due to
blasted London.

> second year we studied the end of the War of the Roses through to Elizabeth 
> I. Our history teacher came up with fun projects including "researching" 
> Elizabethan makeup and a trip to Deal castle where we dress up in tudor 
> peasant dress (including a coif) and did dances (which I have later seen in 
> period dance books).

Ohhhh, Deal castle, it's a sweetie that one. My absolutely favourite though is
Dover castle, the view from up there over the English channel is just
magnificent! On good days you can see France (and dream of chocolate
croissants...)

> I have a UK passport so hopefully one day I'll move back.

When you do, let me know and I 'force' you to come sew with me. :-)

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Thread-Topic: [h-cost] Sorta OT pattern give-away
From: "freyalyn" <freyalyn@ivillage.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sorta OT pattern give-away
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 02:32:24 -0700
Status: RO

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I would love to have either the Afghani or Syrian dress, if you don't
mind including someone from the UK in the draw?

Freyalyn



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<-----Original Message----->
> 
> From: Sue Clemenger
> Sent: 8/5/2002 1:21:52 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Sorta OT pattern give-away
> 
> Hi, gang. I've been doing some more cleaning, and I've got 3 Folkwear
> patterns, never used, that I'd like to give to some good homes. I
> inherited them several years ago, when a friend dumped a bunch of
stuff
> at my house, and never came back (and won't be back). They're nifty
> ethnic patterns, but probably not something I'll ever have the time to
> create, even if I *could* fit within their size range.....
> The three patterns are:
> Afghani Nomad Dress
> Syrian Dress
> Algerian Suit (has variations for both men and women)
> 
> If you're interested in acquiring one of them, please send me an email
> (privately), telling me which one. Next Sunday (Aug. 11th), I'll draw
> the names of the winners, and contact them to arrange mailing, which
> I'll pay for.
> 
> --Sue
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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I would love to have either the Afghani or Syrian dress, if you don't mind including someone from the UK in the draw?<br>
<br>
Freyalyn<br>
<br>

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<BR><font face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2" style="font-size:13.5px">_______________________________________________________________<BR>Sign up for <A HREF="http://s.ivillage.com/rd/16705">FREE iVillage newsletters</A>.<BR>From health and pregnancy to shopping and relationships, iVillage<BR>has the scoop on what matters most to you.

</font><br><br><-----Original Message-----><br>
>  <br>
> From: Sue Clemenger<br>
> Sent: 8/5/2002 1:21:52 AM<br>
> To: h-costume@indra.com<br>
> Subject: [h-cost] Sorta OT pattern give-away<br>
> <br>
> Hi, gang.  I've been doing some more cleaning, and I've got 3 Folkwear<br>
> patterns, never used, that I'd like to give to some good homes.  I<br>
> inherited them several years ago, when a friend dumped a bunch of stuff<br>
> at my house, and never came back (and won't be back).  They're nifty<br>
> ethnic patterns, but probably not something I'll ever have the time to<br>
> create, even if I *could* fit within their size range.....<br>
> The three patterns are:<br>
> Afghani Nomad Dress<br>
> Syrian Dress<br>
> Algerian Suit (has variations for both men and women)<br>
> <br>
> If you're interested in acquiring one of them, please send me an email<br>
> (privately), telling me which one. Next Sunday (Aug. 11th), I'll draw<br>
> the names of the winners, and contact them to arrange mailing, which<br>
> I'll pay for.<br>
> <br>
> --Sue<br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> h-costume mailing list<br>
> h-costume@mail.indra.com<br>
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<br>
> <br>

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 I'll be at Kirby, too!  Camping with the Normans (same group as Jean), but having to work at my stall in the traders market, instead of re-enacting (which would be so much more fun!)
Anybody who's there, come and say hello!  (I trade under Deborah Lough Costumes).
Nicole - won't actually have any buttons there, (apart from a couple of multi-coloured samples), as the wooden cores haven't turned up yet, but if you have the rings you ordered, I could make them over the weekend if you can get them to me, otherwise, I can send them to you if you mail me your address.  (If you have a mobile my number's 0771 867 7871, which you can always use to find in the evenings when I'm not on the stall, and could be anywhere!)
  Debbie.




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<P> I'll be at Kirby, too!&nbsp; Camping with the Normans (same group as Jean), but having to work at my stall in the traders market, instead of re-enacting (which would be so much more fun!)
<P>Anybody who's there, come and say hello!&nbsp; (I trade under Deborah Lough Costumes).
<P>Nicole - won't actually have any buttons there, (apart from a couple of multi-coloured samples), as the wooden cores haven't turned up yet, but if you have the rings you ordered, I could make them over the weekend if you can get them to me, otherwise, I can send them to you if you mail me your address.&nbsp; (If you have a mobile my number's 0771 867 7871, which you can always use to find in the evenings when I'm not on the stall, and could be anywhere!)
<P>&nbsp; Debbie.</P><p><p><br><hr size=1><a href="http://uk.yahoo.com/mail/tagline_xtra/?http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html"><b><font face="Arial" size="2">Get a bigger mailbox -- choose a size that fits your needs.</font></b></a><br><br><a href="http://uk.yahoo.com/mail/tagline_xtra/?http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html"><font face="Arial" size="2">http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html</font></a>
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Debbie=20Lough?= <debbie_lough@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: : [h-cost] Great Britian, was Re: State History Museums was:
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 11:10:19 +0100 (BST)
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>Actually, some people from England aren't English - they're British. I met a 
>man from up near the Scottish/English border not far from Yorkshire who told 
>me about the first time he was called English here in the States. He thought 
>they were referring to someone else, because, as he said "I'm not English, 
>I'm British. I have no Saxon blood". York was part of England pre 1603, but 
>he claimed his ethnicity from further back than England!

I have to agree that this guy was giving you some serious BS!  First of all, I'd defy anybody native to England to have any kind of pure blood (or to be able to prove a lack of Saxon blood).  English people are mostly a mish-mash of all sorts of other nations (including Ancient Briton, Celtic, Italian (Romans), Germanic (Angles, Saxons, etc), Scandinavian (Vikings), French (Normans)).
Also, York (in British distance terms, at least) is nowhere near the Scottish border!  It's almost 200  miles away.  I grew up near Newcastle, 1+1/2 hours from the Scottish border, and descend from a family of border rievers, and I don't consider myself a borderer!  (NB border riever - basically cross-border thieves - at least my lot were, anyway!)
Debbie.




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<P>&nbsp;<BR><BR><BR>&gt;Actually, some people from England aren't English - they're British. I met a <BR>&gt;man from up near the Scottish/English border not far from Yorkshire who told <BR>&gt;me about the first time he was called English here in the States. He thought <BR>&gt;they were referring to someone else, because, as he said "I'm not English, <BR>&gt;I'm British. I have no Saxon blood". York was part of England pre 1603, but <BR>&gt;he claimed his ethnicity from further back than England!<BR><BR>I have to agree that this guy was giving you some serious BS!&nbsp; First of all, I'd defy anybody native to England to have any kind of pure blood (or to be able to prove a lack of Saxon blood).&nbsp; English people are mostly a mish-mash of all sorts of other nations (including Ancient Briton, Celtic, Italian (Romans), Germanic (Angles, Saxons, etc),&nbsp;Scandinavian (Vikings), French (Normans)).
<P>Also, York (in British distance terms, at least) is nowhere near the Scottish border!&nbsp; It's almost&nbsp;200&nbsp; miles away.&nbsp; I grew up near Newcastle, 1+1/2 hours from the Scottish border, and descend from a family of border rievers, and I don't consider myself a borderer!&nbsp; (NB border riever - basically cross-border thieves - at least my lot were, anyway!)
<P>Debbie.</P><p><p><br><hr size=1><a href="http://uk.yahoo.com/mail/tagline_xtra/?http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html"><b><font face="Arial" size="2">Get a bigger mailbox -- choose a size that fits your needs.</font></b></a><br><br><a href="http://uk.yahoo.com/mail/tagline_xtra/?http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html"><font face="Arial" size="2">http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html</font></a>
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Thread-Topic: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Kirby Hall - History in Action
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 03:19:37 -0700
Status: RO

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I shall be there, but boringly wandering around in jeans and being
desperately jealous of everyone in costume!

Oh I do hope it doesn't rain - I'll never persuade DH to drive all that
way if it's raining!

Freyalyn



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<-----Original Message----->
> 
> From: Debbie Lough
> Sent: 8/5/2002 7:00:04 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Kirby Hall - History in Action
> 
> 
> I'll be at Kirby, too! Camping with the Normans (same group as Jean),
but having to work at my 
> stall in the traders market, instead of re-enacting (which would be so
much more fun!)
> Anybody who's there, come and say hello! (I trade under Deborah Lough
Costumes).
> Nicole - won't actually have any buttons there, (apart from a couple
of multi-coloured samples), as 
> the wooden cores haven't turned up yet, but if you have the rings you
ordered, I could make them 
> over the weekend if you can get them to me, otherwise, I can send them
to you if you mail me your 
> address. (If you have a mobile my number's 0771 867 7871, which you
can always use to find in the 
> evenings when I'm not on the stall, and could be anywhere!)
> Debbie.
> 
> 
> 
> Get a bigger mailbox -- choose a size that fits your needs.
> 
> http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html


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<HTML>
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I shall be there, but boringly wandering around in jeans and being desperately jealous of everyone in costume!<br>
<br>
Oh I do hope it doesn't rain - I'll never persuade DH to drive all that way if it's raining!<br>
<br>
Freyalyn<br>
<br>

</BODY></HTML>
<BR><font face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2" style="font-size:13.5px">_______________________________________________________________<BR>Sign up for <A HREF="http://s.ivillage.com/rd/16705">FREE iVillage newsletters</A>.<BR>From health and pregnancy to shopping and relationships, iVillage<BR>has the scoop on what matters most to you.

</font><br><br><-----Original Message-----><br>
>  <br>
> From: Debbie Lough<br>
> Sent: 8/5/2002 7:00:04 PM<br>
> To: h-costume@indra.com<br>
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Kirby Hall - History in Action<br>
> <br>
> <br>
>  I'll be at Kirby, too!  Camping with the Normans (same group as Jean), but having to work at my <br>
> stall in the traders market, instead of re-enacting (which would be so much more fun!)<br>
> Anybody who's there, come and say hello!  (I trade under Deborah Lough Costumes).<br>
> Nicole - won't actually have any buttons there, (apart from a couple of multi-coloured samples), as <br>
> the wooden cores haven't turned up yet, but if you have the rings you ordered, I could make them <br>
> over the weekend if you can get them to me, otherwise, I can send them to you if you mail me your <br>
> address.  (If you have a mobile my number's 0771 867 7871, which you can always use to find in the <br>
> evenings when I'm not on the stall, and could be anywhere!)<br>
>   Debbie.<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> Get a bigger mailbox -- choose a size that fits your needs.<br>
> <br>
> http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html<br>

------=_NextPart_000_0261_01C23C2E.ED7B5400--

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Aug  5 06:57:21 2002
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Kirby Hall - History in Action
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 11:29:14 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Debbie Lough <debbie_lough@yahoo.co.uk> wrote: > 

> Nicole - won't actually have any buttons there, (apart from a couple of
> multi-coloured samples), as the wooden cores haven't turned up yet, but if
> you have the rings you ordered, I could make them over the weekend if you can
> get them to me, otherwise, I can send them to you if you mail me your
> address.  (If you have a mobile my number's 0771 867 7871, which you can
> always use to find in the evenings when I'm not on the stall, and could be
> anywhere!)
>   Debbie.

I have a couple packages of rings, just have to remmeber to take them with me!
Will you be there in the beertent on Friday evening? I think I won't get into
kit (nah, too much trouble) but I am pondering to get into my original 1950s
British Red Cross Nurse uniform on Friday, but coupled with Army issue jungle
boots coz I don't have the proper shoes yet and who knows, it might be muddy
and wet... :-)
So when you see someone in a primly starched pale blue uniform sans headdress
(don't have that one either yet) and gleaming white pinafore and apron, but
with scruffy black boots, that's me. hehe.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Aug  5 07:16:35 2002
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 12:01:23 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

Sue,
I know some folks down in Africa that would kill for
those patterns!The R is doing so badly and it costs
them an arm and a leg to buy/do anything right now.I'd
be happy to defray your expenses?
Personally I'd love to have a look at the Afghan
pattern since I'm looking for wintery stuff to cope
with garb here in the UK.

If you want to get in touch my addy are;

marcus.cuttingtable@virgin.net
mangal.kalima@virgin.net

Thanks,
Marcus

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Aug  5 08:55:06 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] distances in Oz
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Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 22:05:35 +0930
Status: RO

Yes Australia is a big place. My parents live in the same state as me, 600km 
away! I live in Adelaide, South Australia, the nearest capital of another 
state is Melbourne, 900km away!!!!

Rebecca


>--- Betsy Marshall <betsy@softwareinnovation.com> wrote: > "In >America 100
>years is a long time.
>>In England 100 miles is a long distance."
>>it's all due to your frame of reference...
>>Betsy
>
>Oh yes, and even 'worse' Australians, I talked to a re-enactment >friend 
>and she
>said they are going drive (!) 1.600 km to visit their parents for a >week. 
>WAH!
>That's from London to Moscow!!! I wouldn't in my life dream of driving >to
>Moscow, and they happily drive 900 km for a weekend out in Sydney or a
>re-enactment. Holy cow!
>
>Nicole - who LOVES wide open unpopulated spaces, but can't get that >here,
>though can in Norway.

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Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 07:20:49 -0600
Status: RO

No, I don't mind at all!
--sue
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Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 07:24:14 -0600
Status: RO

The "R?"
I don't mind paying postage...that's at least half the fun of giving
something like this away.
If you're a lucky winner, I'll email you, and let you know, and you can
decide where I should send it.....
--Sue

marcus findlay-arthur wrote:
> 
> Sue,
> I know some folks down in Africa that would kill for
> those patterns!The R is doing so badly and it costs
> them an arm and a leg to buy/do anything right now.I'd
> be happy to defray your expenses?
> Personally I'd love to have a look at the Afghan
> pattern since I'm looking for wintery stuff to cope
> with garb here in the UK.
> 
> If you want to get in touch my addy are;
> 
> marcus.cuttingtable@virgin.net
> mangal.kalima@virgin.net
> 
> Thanks,
> Marcus
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Everything you'll ever need on one web page
> from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
> http://uk.my.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 07:33:21 -0600
Status: RO

Nicole, I feel just the same way about any of the nifty things I'd make
from taking your class through Penny's classroom, or any of those
droolsome sack-backed gowns and related clothing from JP's classes. 
What very little historical reenactment there is in my area is all
pre-17th c.
So...I figure I'm just gonna have some beautiful stuff hanging in my
closet...*sigh*.....and the satisfaction of having done something really
"new" to me! ;-D
--Sue

N Kipar wrote:
> 
 Friends do 16th century seamen, but
> otherwise even if I had a costume from Margo's patterns, I wouldn't know
> whereand when to wear it. *pout8
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 09:35:11 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

> > 
> > > Gack! Now all I've got in my head are muddled lyrics like:
> > > Alas, my love, you do me wrong,
> > > to dress me thus discourteously,
> > > For I have told you all along,
> > > it's a gown...and not a cote-hardie...."

ROTFL!

Of course, we can't forget the chorus:

Greenland's where they wore this gown,
Men and women of all degree,
Greenland is the place they found
this gown that is not a cotehardie...



Drea



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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 14:41:42 +0100 (BST)
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--0-1654898623-1028554902=:65227
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>...You are so right Jane, I didn't think about/realise that!
>It took us, when we did the event at Hounslow, 4 hours to get to it!!! ...
>Nicole
Ouch!  It only took us 3 and a half, and that was from Yorkshire!  
Still, I suppose it's the main problem with living north of Yorkshire or south of London - the further you go, the worse the roads get (like the A1 - the main road from London to Edinburgh and its single lane for half its length!).
Debbie.




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<P>&nbsp;<BR><BR>&gt;...You are so right Jane, I didn't think about/realise that!<BR>&gt;It took us, when we did the event at Hounslow, 4 hours to get to it!!! ...
<P>&gt;Nicole
<P>Ouch!&nbsp; It only took us 3 and a half, and that was from Yorkshire!&nbsp; 
<P>Still, I suppose it's the main problem with living north of Yorkshire or south of London - the further you go, the worse the roads get (like the A1 - the main road from London to Edinburgh and its single lane for half its length!).
<P>Debbie.</P><p><p><br><hr size=1><a href="http://uk.yahoo.com/mail/tagline_xtra/?http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html"><b><font face="Arial" size="2">Get a bigger mailbox -- choose a size that fits your needs.</font></b></a><br><br><a href="http://uk.yahoo.com/mail/tagline_xtra/?http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html"><font face="Arial" size="2">http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html</font></a>
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: More questions about forehead cloths
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 15:41:29 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Rebecca Schmitt <lotsofteapots@charter.net> wrote: > 
> When did people start wearing forehead cloths? Were they worn in public, or
> were they more of an in private piece of clothing?

I'm afraid I don't know when they started. certainly in the paintigs of the
Dutch golden age, the 1660s and 70s, the forehead cloths seem to be worn by
sick women indoors as well as reconvalescent women, for example after child
birth.
the next question should be perhaps, what constitutes a forehead cloth? There
are other caps and hoods and coifs that cover the forehead but are constructed
completely differently and are worn by all.
I really don't know.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: Dumb question about forehead cloths was:RE: [h-cost] Forehead Clothes in the Seventeenth Century
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 15:47:56 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote: > Are there portraits of
people wearing them?  Did they go over the coif 
> or under?  I've just recently been investigating religious headcovering, 
> and having had it pointed out to me, noticing that many women wearing 
> hijab wear a small cap or tied headscarf underneath, which comes down to 
> the forehead, and the large headscarf sits further back on the head.  Do 
> forehead cloths work in a similar way?
> 
> Jean Waddie

Good questions Jean, we are trying to figure that one out as well. here are a
few pictures though of sick women having their freheads covered. The date is in
the file name. (Not every sick woman in those paintings wears one though. It
works this way: when wearing a cloth she is sick. It doesn't work 'when sick
she wears a cloth')

http://arts-humanities.cant.ac.uk/temp/Focus/1660-67_VISIT_METSU.JPG

http://arts-humanities.cant.ac.uk/temp/Focus/1660-70_ANAEMIC-LADY_HOOGSTRAATEN.JPG

http://arts-humanities.cant.ac.uk/temp/Focus/1700_NURSERY_NAIVEU.JPG

Here is an example of the one I meant which s constructed differenty but covers
the forehead:

http://arts-humanities.cant.ac.uk/temp/Focus/1660_DOU4.JPG

http://arts-humanities.cant.ac.uk/temp/Focus/1660_STEEN10.JPG

Nicole

=====
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Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: Dumb question about forehead cloths was:RE: [h-cost] Forehead Clothes in the Seventeenth Century
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 15:49:38 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Helen Edmunds <AAH@helandbel.fsnet.co.uk> wrote: > MessageSaragrace
> 
> It's not a silly question  :-)
> Yep you're right,  the forehead cloth is the triangular-shaped item.  My
> understanding, is that it was worn in conjunction with a coif (well, in my
> period) and on the head with the flat edge to the front.  

I am wondering if what is seen on the pictures I just sent from the 1660s and
later, is such a triangular cloth on those sick ladies at all or something
different.

Sometimes, you can
> see a faint glimpse of these in  the various images of babies in the 17th C. 

Not only that, there are quite a few surviving ones for babies. In the
Guildford museum (visited it on Saturday) is a baby's layette from 1707. Most
superb linen items! And of course forehead cloths.

Nicole

=====
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Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Greensleeves filk
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 11:32:58 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


Sue wrote:
> > > > Alas, my love, you do me wrong,
> > > > to dress me thus discourteously,
> > > > For I have told you all along,
> > > > it's a gown...and not a cote-hardie...."

Drea added:
> Greenland's where they wore this gown,
> Men and women of all degree,
> Greenland is the place they found
> this gown that is not a cotehardie...

These verses sound hauntingly familiar ... but they're from two different
lectures ;-)

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] "old" in America
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Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 12:46:18 -0400
Status: RO


Sue Cleminger wrote:

"When I fly into London at the end of the month, it will be the largest
city I've ever been in! <g>"

Don't forget, Sue, that London is one of the largest cities in the world, so
it's the largest city a lot of people  have ever been in!

I spent a summer studying at Oxford as an undergraduate, and I was amazed by
how old everything was. Obviously I *knew* things were that old in England,
but it's a different thing to experience it. And I'm from Pittsburgh, PA,
one of the older states! Now I live in Cincinnati, Ohio, once the "Gateway
to the West" and still considered the Wild West in the early 1800s. The
neighborhood I live in was settled in 1813.

So yes, Nicole and others, we think of things very differently from you in
Britain or Europe. Our museums are different, too. For instance in
Cincinnati we have had a very good art museum since the 1800s (mostly
European works -- usually a small clothing exhibit on display) and a good
Natural History museum for slightly less time. We have quite a few small
museums, like a little downtown Fire Museum in an "old" firehouse (we had
the first paid fire department in the United States). But only recently have
we had a big History Museum dedicated to our area history. It's a fine
museum and you should all come and see it! Our newest museum is a Children's
Museum.

Pittsburgh, a much older city, has an even newer city museum than
Cincinnati. Also a fine museum. My point (if I have one) is that big museums
about local history are fairly recent things, probably because we are such a
new country. I don't know of any state history museums, although there are
quite a few museums run by the National Park Service and dedicated to
battles, presidents, etc.

Gail Finke

PS: We have 50 states.

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From: Rose Amberwulf <roscelin@attbi.com>
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Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 10:12:39 -0700
Status: RO

Greetings to one and all,
  Many have asked for my website address, so I thought it would be best 
to go ahead and post it publically again.  Thank you for your patience 
and indulgence.
   Silver Rose Concepts:   http://home.attbi.com/~roscelin/wsb/html 
<http://home.attbi.com/%7Eroscelin/wsb/html>

In the Service of Many Dreams,
Roscelin de Limoges
Rose Amberwulf

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Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 13:40:01 -0400
Status: RO


Anne is right, we do dress differently in the different states. We also have
many different accents, although they are not as distinct as British
accents! If you watch commercial American TV you might think there are only
about four or five accents. But one of the things I like about listening to
debates in congress is that you get to hear so many different regional
accents.

In Cincinnati Ohio, where I live, people dress very dully. T-shirts and
jeans most of the time, and even when we dress up it's boring. One state to
the right, in Pittsburgh, everyone dresses with a bit more style. Pittsburgh
is an "East Coast" city, albeit on the edge, and Cincinnati is Midwest. Go
about 5 hours west to Chicago, though, and everyone is more stylish again.
On my first trip to Florida I was astounded by all the Cuban-influenced (I
guess) clothes. Things no one would ever wear here in Cincinnati -- bright,
bright colors, very tight women's clothes (although that is now in here),
white ruffled shirts, etc. You would stick out like a sore thumb wearing
that here! A Florida visit last year surprised me because I saw so many
people wearing Hawaiian shirts. I still don't get it -- Hawaiian shirts in
Florida?

My parents have been out West a couple of times to New Mexico and Arizona,
and my mother reports that people there really do wear "Western Wear" --
cowboy shirts, tiered ruffled skirts, bolo ties, etc. Those things are sold
here but I don't know where anyone wears them -- to Western themed parties,
maybe?

I imagine that someday people will recreate the early 21st century with
bizarre mixes of all these clothes -- things no one would ever wear
together, but all documented!

Gail Finke


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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 12:45:06 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO

On Mon, 5 Aug 2002, Rose Amberwulf wrote:

>    Silver Rose Concepts:   http://home.attbi.com/~roscelin/wsb/html 

I think you want a period instead of that last slash, before the html.

--Robin

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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 12:45:06 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO

On Mon, 5 Aug 2002, Rose Amberwulf wrote:

>    Silver Rose Concepts:   http://home.attbi.com/~roscelin/wsb/html 

I think you want a period instead of that last slash, before the html.

--Robin

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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 12:38:47 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Mon, 5 Aug 2002, Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

> Pittsburgh, a much older city, has an even newer city museum than
> Cincinnati. Also a fine museum. My point (if I have one) is that big
> museums about local history are fairly recent things, probably because
> we are such a new country. I don't know of any state history museums,
> although there are quite a few museums run by the National Park
> Service and dedicated to battles, presidents, etc.

As Gail notes, we don't think of museums as being something a state would
routinely establish as a government-run entity. There are plenty of
historic sites that have associated museums, but these are not typically
museums about the history of the "state" in particular -- they focus on
the history of the site (e.g. a famous person's birthplace or a geological
landmark or something). Some cities or counties have their own museums,
which might present local or regional history. And there are quite a few
museums based on some aspect of local or regional history that is not
delineated by "state" -- e.g. the Cowboy Museum in Oklahoma City. I
believe that one is an independent nonprofit, not state-run.

We do have a state history museum here in Missouri, but it's not
state-run, and I don't know if it has any particular connection to the
state government. It's run by the Missouri Historical Society, a nonprofit
organization founded in 1866. The museum receives some funding from the
city's park district and the rest from membership, donations, and grants.
The Society also has an impressive library open to researchers.

As regards costume, somewhere in the society's collections are a few
19th-century working-class men's shirts sometimes called "riverboatman's
shirts" because they are of the type depicted in Missouri artist George
Caleb Bingham's well-known paintings of riverboat workers. For examples,
see <http://sunsite.dk/cgfa/b/p-bingham3.htm>,
<http://www.artchive.com/artchive/B/bingham/fur_traders.jpg.html>, and
<http://www.slam.org/am1.html>. (The Mississippi river plays a huge role
in Missouri history -- think of Mark Twain, a onetime boatman who wrote
"Life on the Mississippi" and set his books "Tom Sawyer" and "Huckleberry
Finn" in a town based on his Missouri hometown of Hannibal.) One of the
shirts in this collection provided the basis for the Folkwear
"Riverboatman's Shirt" pattern. I borrowed this pattern from an h-cost
member a few years ago and made up a nice linen shirt for a friend.  I've
been intending to see if I can get a look at the original, but haven't
gotten around to it.

--Robin

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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 12:59:14 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

See, Robin?  You've been immortalized  in verse!

Drea


On Mon, 5 Aug 2002, Robin Netherton wrote:

> 
> Sue wrote:
> > > > > Alas, my love, you do me wrong,
> > > > > to dress me thus discourteously,
> > > > > For I have told you all along,
> > > > > it's a gown...and not a cote-hardie...."
> 
> Drea added:
> > Greenland's where they wore this gown,
> > Men and women of all degree,
> > Greenland is the place they found
> > this gown that is not a cotehardie...
> 
> These verses sound hauntingly familiar ... but they're from two different
> lectures ;-)
> 
> --Robin
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Dumb question about forehead cloths was:RE: [h-cost] Forehead Clothes in the Seventeenth Century
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 18:24:55 +0100
Status: RO

N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote
> --- Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote: > Are there portraits of
>people wearing them?  Did they go over the coif
>> or under?  I've just recently been investigating religious headcovering,
>> and having had it pointed out to me, noticing that many women wearing
>> hijab wear a small cap or tied headscarf underneath, which comes down to
>> the forehead, and the large headscarf sits further back on the head.  Do
>> forehead cloths work in a similar way?
>>
>> Jean Waddie
>
>Good questions Jean, we are trying to figure that one out as well. here are a
>few pictures though of sick women having their freheads covered. The date is in
>the file name. (Not every sick woman in those paintings wears one though. It
>works this way: when wearing a cloth she is sick. It doesn't work 'when sick
>she wears a cloth')
>
>http://arts-humanities.cant.ac.uk/temp/Focus/1660-67_VISIT_METSU.JPG
>
>http://arts-humanities.cant.ac.uk/temp/Focus/1660-70_ANAEMIC-LADY_HOOGST
>RAATEN.JPG
>
>http://arts-humanities.cant.ac.uk/temp/Focus/1700_NURSERY_NAIVEU.JPG
>
>Here is an example of the one I meant which s constructed differenty but covers
>the forehead:
>
>http://arts-humanities.cant.ac.uk/temp/Focus/1660_DOU4.JPG
>
>http://arts-humanities.cant.ac.uk/temp/Focus/1660_STEEN10.JPG
>
>Nicole
>
These are all coming up really small on my browser, but I'm not sure I 
can see any of these as separate triangular pieces twinned with coifs - 
they just look like headscarves or similar tied very low.  Am I missing 
something vital?

Jean

-- 
Jean Waddie
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In a message dated 8/5/2002 12:52:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
gailscott@eos.net writes:


> PS: We have 50 states.
> 

We won't make Puerto Rico a state because no one can figure out a good way to 
arrange 51 stars on the flag.


Badda-bing!

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 8/5/2002 12:52:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time, gailscott@eos.net writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">PS: We have 50 states.
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>We won't make Puerto Rico a state because no one can figure out a good way to arrange 51 stars on the flag.
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>Badda-bing!</FONT></HTML>

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In a message dated 8/5/2002 1:57:48 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
gailscott@eos.net writes:


> I imagine that someday people will recreate the early 21st century with
> bizarre mixes of all these clothes -- things no one would ever wear
> together, but all documented!
> 

Remember the movie they made of "Hair" [Dreadful. I know] The hippies all 
wore hippy stuff, but somehow it wasn't real. [of course it IS a musical] 
It's hard to put a finger on. Maybe TOO much tie dye and feathers. Its 
contrast to what "The Establishment" wore was real though. That's mushed 
together now. No one would wear a T-shirt and a blazer in the 60s. [A 
turtleneck maybe]

I saw an episode of "Square Pegs" late the other night. The clothes were 
period. The 80s is now period. And of course the [big] hair and make up. And 
shoulder pads...

Interesting.....

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 8/5/2002 1:57:48 PM Eastern Daylight Time, gailscott@eos.net writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I imagine that someday people will recreate the early 21st century with
<BR>bizarre mixes of all these clothes -- things no one would ever wear
<BR>together, but all documented!
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Remember the movie they made of "Hair" [Dreadful. I know] The hippies all wore hippy stuff, but somehow it wasn't real. [of course it IS a musical] It's hard to put a finger on. Maybe TOO much tie dye and feathers. Its contrast to what "The Establishment" wore was real though. That's mushed together now. No one would wear a T-shirt and a blazer in the 60s. [A turtleneck maybe]
<BR>
<BR>I saw an episode of "Square Pegs" late the other night. The clothes were period. The 80s is now period. And of course the [big] hair and make up. And shoulder pads...
<BR>
<BR>Interesting.....</FONT></HTML>

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The silly computer and slippery fingers.  ;)   I'll let everyone know. 
 Thanks, Robin.

Roscelin

Robin Netherton wrote:

>On Mon, 5 Aug 2002, Rose Amberwulf wrote:
>
>>   Silver Rose Concepts:   http://home.attbi.com/~roscelin/wsb/html 
>>
>
>I think you want a period instead of that last slash, before the html.
>
>--Robin
>
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The silly computer and slippery fingers. &nbsp;;) &nbsp; I'll let everyone know. &nbsp;Thanks,
Robin.<br>
<br>
Roscelin<br>
<br>
Robin Netherton wrote:<br>
<blockquote type="cite" cite="mid:Pine.LNX.4.10.10208051244450.21590-100000@shell.nightowl.net">
  <pre wrap="">On Mon, 5 Aug 2002, Rose Amberwulf wrote:<br><br></pre>
  <blockquote type="cite">
    <pre wrap="">   Silver Rose Concepts:   <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://home.attbi.com/~roscelin/wsb/html">http://home.attbi.com/~roscelin/wsb/html</a> <br></pre>
    </blockquote>
    <pre wrap=""><!----><br>I think you want a period instead of that last slash, before the html.<br><br>--Robin<br><br>_______________________________________________<br>h-costume mailing list<br><a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com">h-costume@mail.indra.com</a><br><a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume">http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume</a><br><br></pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
    </body>
    </html>

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Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 12:52:56 -0700
Status: RO

Greetings one and all,
  It is me again.  I made an error in writing out my webpage address it 
should be:
http://home.attbi.com/~roscelin/wsb.html 
<http://home.attbi.com/%7Eroscelin/wsb.html>

   Sorry for the intrusion.

In the Service of the Dream,
Roscelin de Limoges

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Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 12:28:59 -0700
Status: RO


>I disagree. It doesn't affect my research in any particularly big way. It
>wasn't that the colonies particularly affected the motherland regarding dress,
>but vice versa.

What about all that cotton coming in from the American South?  I''d think 
that affected something, especially after the cotton gin was invented and 
made cotton really cheap.

(I'm talking effect here, not whether or not you care about one particular 
period or country.)

Kayta

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothes in 50 states
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 21:30:34 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- AlbertCat@aol.com wrote: > 

> Remember the movie they made of "Hair" [Dreadful. I know] 

I absolutely love that film. Not dreadful at all! In my opinion anyway.

> together now. No one would wear a T-shirt and a blazer in the 60s. [A 
> turtleneck maybe]

Lots of turtlenecks in London. Colin was an artist and arts teacher in the 60s
here in London and he said he wore them all the time because it was not
establishment and very fashionable amongst such people.

> I saw an episode of "Square Pegs" late the other night. The clothes were 
> period. The 80s is now period. And of course the [big] hair and make up. And 
> shoulder pads...

It is frightening to think my haitsyle or clothes or shoes would be classified
as 'vintage' on ebay now. *shudder*

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: [h-cost] Renaissance faires in the US
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Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 15:44:56 -0500
Status: RO

In regards to the costumes - all employees furnish their own costumes.
They have to be approved by the costume mavens. Our faire is more of
a theatrical presentation, so we are not held to strict historical accuracy.
But the costume mavens try to keep us under control.
(Right, Catherine?) ;-)

Sheryl Nance-Durst
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Good explaination of the KC renfaire Sheryl :).  However the level of historical accuracy in the costuming comes and goes at the whim of the Entertainment Director, which can be frustrating (and part of the reason I am not a 'maven' this year).  

I was going to send these websites to Nicole but in case anyone else is interested:

This is the photogallery from the KC performers webpage:
http://www.cobrahq.com/kcrfperformers/Photo_Gallery/photo_gallery.htm
and the reason there are all the underwear shots is because the Court rehearses in their underwear :).  Heat index in this area was 110 last weekend, that's a little hard on the costumes so they try and save them for the first couple of weekends when it will still be pretty hot.

At the bottom of the page is a link to Mike Strange's website which also contains a lot of photos from last season.  http://jmsphoto.net/KCRF/.  Yes, that is Robin Hood and the Merry Men.  Yes, the King is Henry VIII.  No, they didn't really come up with a good reason to mix the two except that the ED wanted it, sigh.

Nicole; renfaires here in the states are lots of fun, if you ever get to this side of the pond let us know and I'm sure someone can find one for you to visit.  In the meantime, I really hope someone will post pics from Kirby (hint, hint, hint :) ).

Catherine




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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 21:59:29 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

Thanks indeed, that was most enlightening! I never knew all that about ren
faires and I always thought that a ren faire was an SCA gathering. (whooops,
sorry SCA'lers) I also got a lot more info about overseas, which is really
appreciated. On top of it all I have been enjoying myself browsing through the
suggested sites. Some lovely costumes on there.

Thanks for taking the time to explain everything

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 13:00:12 -0700
Status: RO

At 3:25 PM -0400 8/5/02, AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 8/5/2002 12:52:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
>gailscott@eos.net writes:
>
>>PS: We have 50 states.
>>
>
>
>We won't make Puerto Rico a state because no one can figure out a 
>good way to arrange 51 stars on the flag.
>

I know it wasn't meant seriously, but the natural arrangement for 51 
stars would be six rows alternating eight and nine stars each.

It's an amusing exercise to come up with reasonably symmetric 
arrangements for each possible increment.

Heather

-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 18:43:58 -0600
Status: RO

Aaackkkk!! Don't tell me *that*....you'll scare me right out of going!
--Sue, small-town girl extraordinaire....

Gail & Scott Finke wrote:
> 
> Sue Cleminger wrote:
> 
> "When I fly into London at the end of the month, it will be the largest
> city I've ever been in! <g>"
> 
> Don't forget, Sue, that London is one of the largest cities in the world, so
> it's the largest city a lot of people  have ever been in!
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 16:59:23 -0700
Status: RO

At 8:33 AM +0100 8/5/02, N Kipar wrote:
>You are also right about the 16th century, or what American seem to call the
>Renaissance, which, technically and art historically isn't the Renaissance at
>all. :-) There is almost nothing here, people doing the 1st person Tudor thing
>at Kentwell but proper re-enactment? Friends do 16th century seamen, but
>otherwise even if I had a costume from Margo's patterns, I wouldn't know
>whereand when to wear it. *pout*

My theory on this (and Nicole, you can tell me if it makes sense! 
<g>) is that the reason there's so little 16th century re-enactment 
in Britain is that there was no WAR there at the time -- all the 
fighting was someplace else.
Therefore, there is no reason for *men* to do re-enactment, since 
guys always want to be soldiers..... <very big grin>!

(Now I KNOW that's not literally true -- as witness the number of men 
who enjoy other things besides soldiering -- but it does seem to me 
that that's how a lot of re-enactment groups got there start, so 
maybe it's harder to get one going without that element?)
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 23:24:43 -0600
Status: RO

While digging around on the Lacis website (www.lacis.com/catalog), I
found nice, metal pomanders being used as thread holders for tatters, of
all things <g>.  They come in silver-plated, or polished brass, are 3"
in diameter, have a number of perforations, and are hinged, so they can
be opened and closed.  I haven't ordered one (yet ;-), but they look
nice....
I found them in the notions>thread holders section of the catalogue. 
The perforations might want to let powdery stuff escape, but they'd be
great for some of the more appropriate "solid" scents.
--Sue
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Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 21:01:22 -0400
Status: RO

Speaking of SCA gatherings, is anyone going to Pennsic?

I'm pretty new in the SCA - much newer than on this list - and this is 
my first Pennsic. If you are there this coming Saturday,  I should be 
helping at Poison Pen Press that afternoon. (Costume and cooking books! 
*G*) so say hello.

I earnestly hope I will be wearing a rather bright blue Gothic Gown... I 
should be able to finish it this week... though much  of the time I'll 
be in borrowed finery, so, if I'm wearing anything else, just ignore 
it... *G*  Some quite pretty, but not my work. Well, OK, also a blue 
kirtle based on Drea's instructions, but I have to put it back together, 
too. Why did I decide the bodice needed alterations? It's been my only 
dress for the year I've been going to events, should have left well 
enough alone, then I'd at least own one dress...  

As I said, I'm new - I'm still not used to the idea of sewing for 
myself. Why would I make garments for me? I'm not going to be on a 
stage... I've never been to one of the big Ren Faires...

Anne

N Kipar wrote:

>Thanks indeed, that was most enlightening! I never knew all that about ren
>faires and I always thought that a ren faire was an SCA gathering. (whooops,
>sorry SCA'lers) I also got a lot more info about overseas, which is really
>appreciated. On top of it all I have been enjoying myself browsing through the
>suggested sites. Some lovely costumes on there.
>
>Thanks for taking the time to explain everything
>
>Nicole
>
>
>__
>


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Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 22:57:38 +0000
Status: RO

Western Wear is very popular here in Texas too - boots, big belt buckles, 
Wrangler jeans (a particular brand that tends to be very tight - "Wrangler 
butts drive me nuts!" was what a girl said to me once.) with a faded circle 
on one of the back pockets where the chewing tobacco tin goes. I know a lot 
of people here who wear their boots and cowboy hat with their best suits and 
a silk tie, and this "uniform" is regularly seen at the Courthouse and 
Capitol building when the legislature is in session.

Mary/Katerine
(whose own personal wardrobe runs more to MidWestern conservative - simple, 
tailored clothing with almost no floral or frills, and lots of black in a 
New York and not Goth way.)

>My parents have been out West a couple of times to New Mexico and Arizona,
>and my mother reports that people there really do wear "Western Wear" --
>cowboy shirts, tiered ruffled skirts, bolo ties, etc. Those things are sold
>here but I don't know where anyone wears them -- to Western themed parties,
>maybe?
>
>Gail Finke
>
>

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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 15:28:02 EDT
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In a message dated 8/5/2002 1:57:48 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
gailscott@eos.net writes:


> I still don't get it -- Hawaiian shirts in
> Florida?
> 

Well, they wear cowboy hats in Hawaii..... so......

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 8/5/2002 1:57:48 PM Eastern Daylight Time, gailscott@eos.net writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I still don't get it -- Hawaiian shirts in
<BR>Florida?
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Well, they wear cowboy hats in Hawaii..... so......</FONT></HTML>

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Dumb question about forehead cloths was:RE: [h-cost] Forehead Clothes in the Seventeenth Century
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 20:45:55 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote: >
> These are all coming up really small on my browser, but I'm not sure I 
> can see any of these as separate triangular pieces twinned with coifs - 
> they just look like headscarves or similar tied very low.  Am I missing 
> something vital?

No you are not missing anything vital, this was exactly the point and question,
are these even forehead cloths? Also, the triangular piece wouldn't hang into
the forehead, but the other edge.
Oh, and yes, the pix were small, they are details from paintings. :-)

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 22:47:27 +0000
Status: RO

The Cincinnati Art Museum (http://www.cincinnatiartmuseum.org) has their 
Saque back gown online along with some other pre-1800 textiles, and if I 
remember correctly, they have 10 Worth Gowns in their collection.

According to some of my friends who are interested in Islamic Art, their 
Near East collection is one of the best in the Country.

Mary/Katerine
(who has a soft spot for the CAM as she was a regular visitor back when she 
was a Starving College Student at Northern Kentucky University and the CAM 
offered free admission on Saturdays. I miss the trees in Eden Park.)

For instance in
>Cincinnati we have had a very good art museum since the 1800s (mostly
>European works -- usually a small clothing exhibit on display)

>Gail Finke



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothes in 50 states
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Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 12:48:21 -0700
Status: RO


>Anne is right, we do dress differently in the different states.

I live in the San Francisco Bay area (the solidly urbanized area all around 
that body of water), and I couldn't agree with you more.  And don't forget 
age, philosophical, and ethnic differences which affect what people, even 
in the same area, wear.  Than there are the foreigners here in California 
on work visas, some of whom (or their wives) still wear their homeland 
clothes.  There must be 50 saree shops in the Bay Area, and plenty of Black 
African and Japanese ones, all selling imported ethnic fabric and garments.

>We also have
>many different accents, although they are not as distinct as British
>accents! If you watch commercial American TV you might think there are only
>about four or five accents. But one of the things I like about listening to
>debates in congress is that you get to hear so many different regional
>accents.

There are more American accents on American TV than there were 30 years 
ago.  Then, TV-people all went for a bland so-called 'midwestern' 
accent.  Now the American viewer can hear regional and ethnic accents 
too.  These accents are creeping into situation comedies, and will 
certainly be exported eventually, if not sooner.

>In Cincinnati Ohio, where I live, people dress very dully. T-shirts and
>jeans most of the time, and even when we dress up it's boring.

In Berkeley and San Francisco, large numbers of people dress in t-shirts 
and jeans, altho the number of, how shall I say, 'sartorial individualists' 
is much greater here.  I spend time in both 'camps'.


Kayta

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Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 22:28:01 +0000
Status: RO

They just celebrated Bastille Day at the French Legation here in Austin, 
Texas. France was the only country to set up an Embassy during the Republic, 
and the building is now a Museum. (very small). Don't know if they did it in 
costume - hmm...another period to costume for...?

heh heh heh (wide grin)

Mary/Katerine

> > Texas became an independent country and did not become part of the 
>United
> > States until Dec, 1845.
>
>The Texan Embassy building in London still exists,
>and is now a *very* good restaurant, serving "Texan"
>food. Yet more info can be found all over its walls.
>



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Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 18:49:53 -0600
Status: RO

I'd think that'd be affecting a different time period than what Nicole
concentrates on.
--sue

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> 

> What about all that cotton coming in from the American South?  I''d think
> that affected something, especially after the cotton gin was invented and
> made cotton really cheap.
> 
> (I'm talking effect here, not whether or not you care about one particular
> period or country.)
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Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 21:39:41 +0000
Status: RO

And in some places, like New Orleans Creole society, the Mulattoes, 
Quadroons (1/4 black), and Octoroons (1/8 black), were frequently "kept 
women", as it was prohibited by law for a white and a person of "mixed 
blood" (not aure how diluted that blood could get for the law to still 
apply) to marry. However, according to legend there, if you were pale enough 
to "pass" and had the money, you could create the documents (like a birth 
certificate) to "prove' you were white. So a corrolary between "Yellow Rose" 
and prostitute isn't too far off...

Mary/Katerine

>
>On Sun, 4 Aug 2002, Ron Carnegie wrote:
>
> >  Curious, my understanding was that a "Yellow Rose" was a mulatto
> > woman.
>
>IIRC the question first arose because someone was trying to connect yellow
>with prostitutes in some particular time/place, and someone else asked
>about the "Yellow Rose," who was presumably a prostitute. A more informed
>poster, whose identity I can't recall, explained that the so-called
>"yellow girls" were called that because they mixed race (as you state),
>and it wasn't a reference to the wearing of yellow.
>
>--Robin
>
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nifty thing for 16th c. types....
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Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 00:19:11 -0700
Status: RO


>I found them in the notions>thread holders section of the catalogue.
>The perforations might want to let powdery stuff escape, but they'd be
>great for some of the more appropriate "solid" scents.

Couldn't you just wrap powdered stuff in a cloth first, then put it inside 
the ball?


Kayta

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Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Renaissance Faires in the U.S.
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 9:46:17 -0500
Status: RO


> 
> From: N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
> Date: 2002/08/05 Mon AM 02:33:37 CDT
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renaissance Faires in the U.S.
> 
>  --- FyneHats2@aol.com wrote: > 

. 
. What we don't have here is faires, that's
> probaby because what we have is re-enactment.
*

     Err... we have re-enactment AND faires in the U.S.  I personally have re-enacted The U.S. Civil war, The American Revolution, the wild west, Elizabethan, English Civil War, World war I and World War II.  I have seen reenactments stretching even farther, from Romans to the Russian invasion of Afghanistan!  Reenacting is VERY strong in the U.S. with the larger Americn Civil War events having 15,000 or so on a side!  The Civil War is the largest here.

> You are also right about the 16th century, or what American seem to call the Renaissance, which, technically and art historically isn't the Renaissance at all. 
 

   Of course the Renaissance was more than just an art movement, and is not always measured the same way by art historian's as it is by Science historians, or philosophy historians.  In fact I have heard the Elizabethan period reffered to as the English Rennaisance.  Still it matters little.  The term Rennaisance Faire was created in error by Phyliss Patterson of the Living History Centre when what she had in mind was actually a neo-medeviel faire forty years ago.

> Also, in England you are _NOT_ allowed to come in costume to a re-enactment event, only invited and participating re-enactment groups and societies. All visitors must be dressed mundanely. 

     This is generally the case here in the U.S. as well, at reenactments I mean. Even more so when the event is attached to a museum.  Where I work is an exception, since the streets are public.  As long as they are not indecent, we have no control over what visitors chosse to wear.

I remain,
Ron


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Aug  6 03:54:30 2002
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Renaissance Faires in the U.S.
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 08:31:29 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> wrote: > 

> My theory on this (and Nicole, you can tell me if it makes sense! 
> <g>) is that the reason there's so little 16th century re-enactment 
> in Britain is that there was no WAR there at the time -- all the 
> fighting was someplace else.
> Therefore, there is no reason for *men* to do re-enactment, since 
> guys always want to be soldiers..... <very big grin>!

*laughs* You're right. Yep, that sounds very plausible indeed. They want to
play in their 'boys clubs' and apart from that it's a cheap hobby then. Just
one uniform (cheap for ECW and ACW) and a shooty stick, and boy do they love
their shooty sticks. hehehe.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Aug  6 04:05:12 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] modern ethnic garments
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Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 13:12:35 -0700
Status: RO

I used to be of the opinion that, since the advent of the universal 
Westernization of world clothing, any genuine ethnic garment that is still 
being worn is historical.  But garments like sarees and Palestinian dresses 
are instances of non-Western historical styles which are still evolving - 
still being designed, made, and worn.

Sarees are now available in polyester, with modern designs printed on them 
(in Japan).  Palestinian dresses are sometimes made with Palestinian 
nationalistic designs cross-stitched on them.  The cross-stitch designs on 
these garments over the years, whether traditional or from Western pattern 
books, has evolved in ways even a dilettante Palestinian cross-stitch fan 
like myself can notice.

I notice the same modernization of style in otherwise fossilized garments 
like festival and folk dance costumes (European or Asian), American square 
dance dresses, and Ren. Faire garments (picture old-time Faire folk, still 
wearing 'Hippie-Renaissance' bodices from the 60s, with lots of floral 
braid trim).

Does anyone have opinions on this?

Kayta

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Time and underpinnings
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 21:32:40 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote: > 
> >I disagree. It doesn't affect my research in any particularly big way. It
> >wasn't that the colonies particularly affected the motherland regarding
> dress,
> >but vice versa.
> 
> What about all that cotton coming in from the American South?  I''d think 
> that affected something, especially after the cotton gin was invented and 
> made cotton really cheap.

Dear, IF you had read my post carefully you would have seen that I said exactly
that. I also said that I have not yet started to get deeply into the period use
of cotton yet (and all that has to do with it), but I shall come to that.

> (I'm talking effect here, not whether or not you care about one particular 
> period or country.)

As I said, please read the entire mail. Thank you.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Forehead cloths in the 17th Century
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Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 09:29:28 +0100
Status: RO

(Catching up on posts after being out of the office most of Monday)

Welcome to the list, Helen. I do living history with the SK (used to be a musketeer and then a drummer) and also belong to a period music group, an offshoot of the SK, now independent, the Generalls Musick and Players.
I've seen forehead cloths illustrated in the Cunnington book as belonging with the early style of coif, but I've no idea when and why they were worn.



Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 10:04:19 +0100
Status: RO

Jean wrote:

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> 
I'm not sure how officially Wales ever was integrated (anyone Welsh 
here?) Hang on, my book here says "by the Statute of Wales of 1284 
(under Edward I) the area was transferred to the King's dominion".  

I'm not Welsh (though I did go to university there) and no medievalist, but wasn't it Edward I who made his baby son Prince of Wales after promising the Welsh a prince who could speak no English?



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Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 10:14:38 +0100
Status: RO

Nicole wrote:
>There is almost nothing here, people doing the 1st person Tudor thing
>at Kentwell but proper re-enactment? Friends do 16th century seamen, but
>otherwise even if I had a costume from Margo's patterns, I wouldn't know
>whereand when to wear it. *pout8

There's "The Tudor Group" as well - they do big civilian displays at Kirby.

>Also, in England you are _NOT_ allowed to come in costume to a re->enactment event, only invited and participating re-enactment groups and >societies. 
Yes, that's the norm, although the SK did once do an event at Stony Stratford for which the locals attempted to dress up too. It made for a great community atmosphere.



Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 10:27:30 BST
Status: RO

> I'm not sure how officially Wales ever was integrated (anyone Welsh 
> here?) Hang on, my book here says "by the Statute of Wales of 1284 
> (under Edward I) the area was transferred to the King's dominion".  

Looks like it got integrated more than once, according to a quick Google search.

* Romano-British territory (Roman Citizenship granted 212AD). 
* Independent more-or-less co-operative kingdoms and principalities 400AD to 13th Century. 
* Partial Norman occupation 11th, 12th and 13th centuries. 
Anglo-Normans recognise Principality of Wales in Treaty of Montgomery, 1267. 
* Treaty broken and Wales made Dominion of English King 1282-1535, ruled by King's officials and marcher lords (Statute of Rhyddlan, 1294). 
* Independent Principality 1400-1416 under Owain Glyndwr. 
* Unilateral Act of Union annexes ``Our Dominion, Principality and Countrey of Wales'' with Kingdom of England (1535-1707). 
* Constituent of Kingdom of Great Britain (1707-1801) and United Kingdom (from 1801). 
* Gradual transfer of powers from UK parliament and ministries from 1951 (formation of Ministry of Welsh Affairs), 1964 (Secretary of State for Wales and Welsh Office), 1997 (successful referendum for devolved democratic assembly), 1999 (foundation of National Assembly for Wales with autonomous administrative duties and secondary legislative powers). 




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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 10:53:42 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote: > 
> 
> There's "The Tudor Group" as well - they do big civilian displays at Kirby.

Ooops, yep, I didn't mean to forget them, and a couple members are even
friends. *L* they only do working people though, and don't allow upper class,
how boooooooooooring costume wise. :-)

> Yes, that's the norm, although the SK did once do an event at Stony Stratford
> for which the locals attempted to dress up too. It made for a great community
> atmosphere.

That's very sweet, reminds me of a few kiddies dressing up as 'Anglo-saxon
warriors etc.' coming to West Stow. So cute! Dad's pyjama top belted as a
tunic, an old curtain as a cloak, a stick as a sword, I love it! It reminds me
so much of myself as a kiddie and that vast imagination that ran wild.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 10:54:47 +0100 (BST)
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Will almost definitely be in the beer tent at some point on Friday night (although when depends on how long it takes to set up the Conquest site, after the kit van arrives from Bristol!)

Will probably be wearing jeans and t-shirt (barbour and wellies if it rains)!

Debbie.

>I have a couple packages of rings, just have to remmeber to take them with me!
>Will you be there in the beertent on Friday evening? I think I won't get into
>kit (nah, too much trouble) but I am pondering to get into my original 1950s
>British Red Cross Nurse uniform on Friday, but coupled with Army issue jungle
>boots coz I don't have the proper shoes yet and who knows, it might be muddy
>and wet... :-)
>So when you see someone in a primly starched pale blue uniform sans headdress
>(don't have that one either yet) and gleaming white pinafore and apron, but
>with scruffy black boots, that's me. hehe.

>Nicole






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<P>Will almost definitely be in the beer tent at some point on Friday night (although when depends on how long it takes to set up the Conquest site, after the kit van arrives from Bristol!)</P>
<P>Will probably be wearing jeans and t-shirt (barbour and wellies if it rains)!</P>
<P>Debbie.<BR><BR>&gt;I have a couple packages of rings, just have to remmeber to take them with me!<BR>&gt;Will you be there in the beertent on Friday evening? I think I won't get into<BR>&gt;kit (nah, too much trouble) but I am pondering to get into my original 1950s<BR>&gt;British Red Cross Nurse uniform on Friday, but coupled with Army issue jungle<BR>&gt;boots coz I don't have the proper shoes yet and who knows, it might be muddy<BR>&gt;and wet... :-)<BR>&gt;So when you see someone in a primly starched pale blue uniform sans headdress<BR>&gt;(don't have that one either yet) and gleaming white pinafore and apron, but<BR>&gt;with scruffy black boots, that's me. hehe.<BR><BR>&gt;Nicole<BR><BR></P><p><p><br><hr size=1><a href="http://uk.yahoo.com/mail/tagline_xtra/?http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html"><b><font face="Arial" size="2">Get a bigger mailbox -- choose a size that fits your needs.</font></b></a><br><br><a href="http://uk.yahoo.com/mail/tagline_xtra/?http://!
uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html"><font face="Arial" size="2">http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html</font></a>
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Kirby Hall - History in Action
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 11:21:55 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Debbie Lough <debbie_lough@yahoo.co.uk> wrote: > 
> Will almost definitely be in the beer tent at some point on Friday night
> (although when depends on how long it takes to set up the Conquest site,
> after the kit van arrives from Bristol!)

Same here, have to pick up a member/friend from the train station at around 7.
Poor Tash (if I may toot her horn, she is one of the almost non-existent black
re-enactors in the UK) has done her back in badly and can't hoik her stuff
around very much.

> Will probably be wearing jeans and t-shirt (barbour and wellies if it rains)!
> 
> Debbie.

I hope I'll remember the button rings! I'll be in the 50s red cross uniform and
if it rains with a cameo army issue rain jacket on top of it. *L*

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: "Glenda Robinson" <glendar@compassnet.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Forehead cloths in the 17th Century
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 18:57:55 +1000
Status: RO

I'll add my tuppence worth on this..

I'm wondering if they were used similarly to the later periods - around the
house for cooking/cleaning/undress.

I have no research pointing either way for this, though :-(  It just seems
that it's easier because coifs tend to be more difficult to wear when
working for me.

Glenda.

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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] How I got involved
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Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 10:00:29 +0100
Status: RO

Kayta wrote:

>>As far as that goes, how did *any* of you out there get into
>>clothing/costuming/historical stuff?

>My mother knew I liked dressing up in costumes when I was little (what 
>Americans call dressing up, not what dressing up means in the UK), and she got me Davenport's history of costume book, still my favourite.  

I'm not sure what you think "dressing up" means in the UK, but to me as a child it meant playing with old clothes or unusual garments kept for the purpose. When, later,  I heard that someone had started a society where grown-ups could dress up as historical characters, I thought it sounded wonderful. 
Personally, I dislike sewing, but like to have period costumes to wear!


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kirby Hall - History in Action
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 18:16:56 +0100
Status: RO

Anybody fancy a tea-party?  Maybe about half to an hour after closing - 
time enough to close up, but not so late as to interfere with your 
beer-tent enjoyment?

Jean


Helen  Partner <mail@helandbel.fsnet.co.uk> wrote
>Hello All
>
>Anyone fancy meeting up at KH?  We're (daughters and myself) not
>"performing" but will probably get "in kit" (weather and baby-permitting)
>for some of the time, so our time is our own.  Our group is finished by 1pm.
>Any takers?
>Regards
>
>Helen
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "N Kipar" <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: 04 August 2002 14:51
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kirby Hall - History in Action
>
>
>> --- Helen  Partner <mail@helandbel.fsnet.co.uk> wrote: > Morning all,
>> >
>> > Just a quick question - is anyone going to Kirby Hall next weekend?
>> >
>> > Regards
>> > Helen
>>
>>
>> Hi Helen, yes I will be going. As far as I know Teddy, Mel, Jean and Kate
>are
>> going too.
>>
>> Nicole
>>
>> =====
>> Nicole Kipar M.A.
>> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
>> Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
>> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
>> Email: marquis@kipar.org
>>
>> __________________________________________________
>> Do You Yahoo!?
>> Everything you'll ever need on one web page
>> from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
>> http://uk.my.yahoo.com
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>>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Time and underpinnings
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 18:14:44 +0100
Status: RO

N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote
> --- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote: >
>
>> I've heard rumors that the Germans are big into the American Wild West (and
>> into 1950s American 'modern' furniture).
>
>I'm German, but I don't have a clue! Have never ever heard of that, so I don't
>know if it is just a wild rumour or true.
>
>Funny though that in the UK there seem to be more American Civil war
>re-enactors than English Civil war re-enactors. *LOL* Ahh, but maybe one has to
>count all the Commonwealth ones, apparently there are quite a few English Civil
>war re-enactors in Australia and New Zealand?
>
>Nicole
>
Something we realised when some Australians joined our group, is that 
most British medieval re-enactors are interested in linking to their 
local history - for example, where I grew up had strong links to Henry 
VIII, so I originally went for Tudor.  Several of our Saxon members used 
the Saxon names of their hometowns for "surnames".  When you come from 
somewhere that doesn't have [European-based] history that far back, you 
can just choose what you like - the Australians did mainly Byzantine, 
but one was thinking of going Hungarian just for the glorious clothes.

Jean

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kirby Hall - History in Action
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 12:43:47 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote: > Anybody fancy a
tea-party?  Maybe about half to an hour after closing - 
> time enough to close up, but not so late as to interfere with your 
> beer-tent enjoyment?
> 
> Jean

Whoohoo, super idea Jean, may I have coffee instead though? 6:30? I also have
to grab something to eat, get out of the mantua first (no WAY do i go in that
into the beer tent :-) get into a different set of kit, etc. Should be possible
to do before 3:30-45

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Byzantine & Russian, was Re: [h-cost] Time and underpinnings
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 12:47:29 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote: >

> Something we realised when some Australians joined our group, is that 
> most British medieval re-enactors are interested in linking to their 
> local history - for example, where I grew up had strong links to Henry 
> VIII, so I originally went for Tudor.  Several of our Saxon members used 
> the Saxon names of their hometowns for "surnames". 

You are so right. My 'persona' is German and married to an Englishman, and we
are Earl and Countes of Brompton (because we live in ld Brompton and Frances
Stuart was Lady Cobham which is round the corner) and my name is 'von
Hardenberg', because I grew up in the Hardenberg Street and Graf von Hardenberg
was  a proper title. *L*

 When you come from 
> somewhere that doesn't have [European-based] history that far back, you 
> can just choose what you like - the Australians did mainly Byzantine, 
> but one was thinking of going Hungarian just for the glorious clothes.

Ohhhh, Byzantine! I love it, the OTT aristocratic clothing. Now that we are
tinkering to go do a few bits with Teddy's far isles I could finally make some
Byzantine stuff. And Russian, oh how beautiful the clothes look, and with my
Russian ancestors... I just love sumptuous fabrics. Just look at the fabulous
creations below.

http://medievalrussia.freeservers.com/dress.html

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kirby Hall - History in Action
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 13:36:34 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote: > Oh yes, yes, yes!
> 
> I will be with the Normans, Nicole is L'Age d'Or, Kate Bunting will be 
> in the house playing music and Teddy is going with Paladins of Chivalry.
> 
> 
> Anyone else?
> 

wish I was going now.  The Tudor Group is going to be there but I thought I'd give it a pass this
year, afterall I have my lovely doublet to finish before the commissions for next season start
coming in.

Rachel

=====
Rachel

Tudor Bibliography
http://website.lineone.net/~reholliday/Tudor/

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Great Britian, was Re: State History Museums was:
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 13:39:14 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- A F Murphy <afmmurphy@earthlink.net> wrote: > LOL! Now that, I can tell you...
> Only people from England are English. People from Scotland are Scots, 
> people from Wales are Welsh, but they are all British. People from 
> Northern Ireland are from the UK, and subjects of the Queen, but they 
> are not British.
> 
> Anne

Anne,

The term British actually refers to people living in the British Isles (England, Scotland, Wales,
Ireland, Isle of Mann, Silly Isles etc etc).  So the Irish are as British as the rest of us. 
Southern Ireland (eire) doesn't belong to Great Britain but they are still British.  Now are you
suitably confused yet?

Rachel

=====
Rachel

Tudor Bibliography
http://website.lineone.net/~reholliday/Tudor/

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Aug  6 09:24:46 2002
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 09:11:44 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO


Hi All,

**** My old search engine is now fixed.  *****

I'm just back from vacation.

Christine has been kind enough to forward some mail about my
search engine at:

http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion
http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion/archives

I mistakenly broke the old search engine and it is now fixed.
I will probably not disable the old search engine - unless it
is providing too much of a load on my server.


I'll clarify the difference between the two search engines:

New Engine:
  It builds a catalog of all Subject lines and Senders.  You
  can search by Subject and Sender ONLY.
  All postings get "cleaned".  ie advertisments and other annoying
  things get striped.  I tweak the cleaning engine now and then and
  I know that it does have some small problems.  If you have searches
  that give you very strange postings please forward me the exact 
  search phrase that you used.

  Note: The new search engine uses Unix Regular Expressions - they're
        very powerfull - but it doesn't make sense to many people.
        Still it lets you search for exact words or phrases.

  Search times (and load on my server) are about 100x to 1000x faster.
  I have been playing with using a database - but droped that for lack
  of time.

Old Search Engine:
  The old search engine searches _EVERYTHING_.  It doesn't just
  search the Subject line - but all of the text in all messages.
  That is in the original archives - not my "cleaned" ones.

  This can be quite a load (briefly) on my server - and it means
  that you'll often get tons and tons of hits.  It also doesn't
  offer any easy way to go exactly to that one message - or to
  easily bringing up postings with the same subject or from the
  same author.

In both cases all of the text of the original postings is available.
But I have not linked that from the web.  You can easily get to it
with a path such as:
http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion/archives/hcos99

That will list all postings from the 1999 h-costume directory.  Each
file is for one month worth of postings.

hco00 is 2000, hcos02 is 2002 etc etc.
Files that end in .cl are the "cleaned" ones.

Note: On at least one occasion in the past someone has broken into
the h-costume list-server and stolen the entire list of people and
their email addresses.  I use this email account for nothing except
recieving email from this one list-server; and I get lots of spam
 (which is now automatically filtered so that it doesn't get into
  the archives).  In case you are wondering where some of your spam
  comes from - that is one place.  Here are some recent pieces of
  spam that I've gotten because the security of the list serve
  was broken.

Subject: Clean your credit right from your computer!          28658
Subject: Want to increase your penis size! ? 
Subject: HELP THE CHILDREEN                                9123kSPD3-094uBNh7054j-21
Subject: Powerful Tool For Manufacturers/Job Shops
Subject: Is this unclaimed money yours?
Subject: A  funny website
Subject: Make Over $100 Daily From Home! 7875wPhm3-439ruQq1392-20
Subject: re:  NORTON SYSTEMWORKS CLEARANCE SALE!
Subject: Fw: Debt Solving Solution as promised  


 - Eric
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Aug  6 09:29:49 2002
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How I got involved
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 13:57:16 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

Well I have always sown, first embroidery from about the age of three onwards and I got my first
sewing machine when I was about 6 (it was a toy but you could sew with it).  History has always
been a part of my life.  We were always being taken to some Stately home to look round or to an
exhibition.  In England you just can't really avoid it, the town where I lived from 3-24 has some
wonderful Roman remains as well as everything in between (Saxon churches, Norman Abbey, medieval
street, Tudor Inn and so on).  My love for Tudor costume didn't really explode until my dad took
me to an exhibition at the Royal Martime Museum in Grenwich (London) celebrating 400 years since
we gave the Spanish a hiding (Armada).  When you are gazing at portrait upon portrait of Elizabeth
I you can't help but be bowled over by the costumes.  

I didn't really get into Living History until last year.  I have always done historically accurate
embroidery but decided that I'd like a better forum for it, and so I joined the Tudor Group.  This
is my first complete season and it is just wonderful.  I have started on a blackwork cushion that
will take the next four years or so to finish (its 3ft by 1.5ft!) but it will be worth every
stitch.

Rachel

=====
Rachel

Tudor Bibliography
http://website.lineone.net/~reholliday/Tudor/

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kirby Hall - History in Action
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 14:04:22 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Rachel <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk> wrote: >  --- Jean Waddie
<anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote: > Oh yes, yes, yes!

> wish I was going now.  The Tudor Group is going to be there but I thought I'd
> give it a pass this
> year, afterall I have my lovely doublet to finish before the commissions for
> next season start
> coming in.

It may be the last time though rachel, it doesn't look too good for Kirby I
think. EH gets rid of their national events organisation, and it will all be
run regionally. Let us all cross our fingers it will take place again next
year!

...and that the blasted weather is better than what it is right now.... *sigh*

Nicole - who knows that silk brocade and rain do NOT mix.

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 07:25:33 -0600
Status: RO

Oh, yeah, duh! I didn't think of that, but then, what I want to play
with is a period-appropriate solid stuff I got the recipe for when I
took Drea's class on Elizabethan stuff.
--Sue

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> 
> >I found them in the notions>thread holders section of the catalogue.
> >The perforations might want to let powdery stuff escape, but they'd be
> >great for some of the more appropriate "solid" scents.
> 
> Couldn't you just wrap powdered stuff in a cloth first, then put it inside
> the ball?
> 
> Kayta
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Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 07:56:14 -0600
Status: RO

Oooh! Oooh! Another blackwork fiend! Welcome!
My current project is multi-year, too, although it's for a shift for a
costume....based on a couple of portraits I've been carefully gleaning
over the years--the blackwork runs in stripes roughly 6 inches apart the
full length of the shift.  Sleeves (finished, thank god) are 22" x 4',
and the front and back (in progress) are 45" x 4'.  I based the
dimensions roughly on the 17th c. Italian shift in _Cut My Cote_, with
additional length in the sleeves to allow for poofing.
What kind of design are you using for your cushion? I've seen a number
of them that look pretty "leafy," with grape leaves and such, and all
the filling patterns.  Or are you doing flowers? <g>
If I ever get caught up on my clothing projects, I'd *love* to tackle
some furnishings like you're doing!
--Sue

Rachel wrote:
> 

> I didn't really get into Living History until last year.  I have always done historically accurate
> embroidery but decided that I'd like a better forum for it, and so I joined the Tudor Group.  This
> is my first complete season and it is just wonderful.  I have started on a blackwork cushion that
> will take the next four years or so to finish (its 3ft by 1.5ft!) but it will be worth every
> stitch.
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Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 07:50:11 -0600
Status: RO

It occurs to me that there's a lot of the same confusion here in the
western hemisphere....Canadians, people from the US, and Mexicans are
all "Americans" in the sense that we're all on the continent of North
America, but only those of us in the *United*States* of America tend to
be referred to as "Americans."
And then, of course (at least here in the US), you get all the ethnic
hyphenations....African-American being the most commonly used to refer
to people who's ethnic origins lie primarily in Africa, but there are
Chinese-Americans, Vietnamese-Americans, German-Americans,
Irish-Americans, etc.  Seems to be used more often to refer to post
1st-generation people.  "Native Americans" are the various tribes and
nations of peoples who lived here well before the various European
incursions (although I *have* heard that in Canada, they're referred to
as "First Nations," which I kinda like <g>).
--Sue, Northern-European-American-Mongrel <g>

Rachel wrote:
> 
>  --- A F Murphy <afmmurphy@earthlink.net> wrote: > LOL! Now that, I can tell you...
> > Only people from England are English. People from Scotland are Scots,
> > people from Wales are Welsh, but they are all British. People from
> > Northern Ireland are from the UK, and subjects of the Queen, but they
> > are not British.
> >
> > Anne
> 
> Anne,
> 
> The term British actually refers to people living in the British Isles (England, Scotland, Wales,
> Ireland, Isle of Mann, Silly Isles etc etc).  So the Irish are as British as the rest of us.
> Southern Ireland (eire) doesn't belong to Great Britain but they are still British.  Now are you
> suitably confused yet?
> 
> Rachel
> 
> =====
> Rachel
> 
> Tudor Bibliography
> http://website.lineone.net/~reholliday/Tudor/
> 
> __________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 10:11:11 -0400
Status: RO

And I live in the South.  Born and raised in it.  The land of Nascar.
Hancock's has fabric printed with Nascar images (shudder).  I think the
standard uniform in North Carolina if you are not in Charlotte, Raleigh or
Greensboro is a tank top (with Nascar image), jeans and a shotgun.  Possibly
a can of beer in your other hand. Ugh.

Apollonia

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Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 14:15:57 +0000
Status: RO



>This is really fascinating, completely different ways of thinking and 
>values.
>200 year old things are considered to be quite modern and just vintage 
>here,
at
>least amongst the historians and curators that I know. Fascinating!
>Thanks Mary, I'm flabbergasted.
>
>Nicole


One of the archaeologists(spelling?) at Basing House described one of 
Basing's buildings as not very old. It was probably built during  the rule 
of Elizabeth 1st!

regards
Joy

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothes in 50 states
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 15:38:55 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Apollonia Margherita <apollonia@bellsouth.net> wrote: > And I live in the
South.  Born and raised in it.  The land of Nascar.
> Hancock's has fabric printed with Nascar images (shudder).  I think the
> standard uniform in North Carolina if you are not in Charlotte, Raleigh or
> Greensboro is a tank top (with Nascar image), jeans and a shotgun.  Possibly
> a can of beer in your other hand. Ugh.
> 
> Apollonia

Uhm, what is Nascar? Now I'm intrigued. :-)

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renaissance Faires in the U.S.
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 15:45:03 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

--- N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote: >  --- Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
wrote: > 
> > 
> > There's "The Tudor Group" as well - they do big civilian displays at Kirby.
> 
> Ooops, yep, I didn't mean to forget them, and a couple members are even
> friends. *L* they only do working people though, and don't allow upper class,
> how boooooooooooring costume wise. :-)
> 

Hi Nicole

Out of interest which members do you know (I'm a member of the TG myself).

We only go as high as the low gentry, but that doesn't mean to say that some members don't go a
little higher than that.  Of course the problem comes with the cash to do it.  No-one in the group
can afford to do a completely accurate court costume (£15,000+ at the last estimate).  Shame
really as I'd love to embroider one myself.


Rachel

=====
Rachel

Tudor Bibliography
http://website.lineone.net/~reholliday/Tudor/

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Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 10:50:29 -0400
Status: RO

Cheap hobby? Ha!

Don't know about England, but ACW? I dipped my toe into that pool once, 
7 years ago, looking for a uniform cap for a one-man show. I found an 
entire world...

In ACW reenacting, they don't play "A Union (or Confederate) Soldier." 
 They join specific units, playing specific historic regiments, and 
reproduce their kit precisely. They get buttons made by the companies 
that made the originals. They get insignia from repro companies that 
provide the documentation. Different units and regiments had slightly 
different uniforms - wasn't really Government Issue yet - so the great 
source your friend found may not have what you need. A uniform isn't 
passed unless every single detail is exactly accurate to not simply the 
time, but a man of that rank coming from that town, in that regiment... 
 there is no such thing as "Good Enough" or a ten foot rule. Then you 
start getting accessories... I mean, you're going to want to have some 
water during the battle, right? So you need the right thing to drink it 
from. You're going to mend a rip in your trousers that evening? Get the 
right needle...

I don't know, there might be groups that aren't quite that - well, my 
fanaticism is their precision, so - precise. But I sure found the ones 
who were! Seems to me that, when I first joined this list, we had a few 
ACW people, but when I re-joined, after a hiatus, they had gone...  

Anne
Who should be sewing, not writing to this list...

N Kipar wrote:

>
>*laughs* You're right. Yep, that sounds very plausible indeed. They want to
>play in their 'boys clubs' and apart from that it's a cheap hobby then. Just
>one uniform (cheap for ECW and ACW) and a shooty stick, and boy do they love
>their shooty sticks. hehehe.
>
>Nicole
>
>


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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How I got involved
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 15:55:02 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

Hi Sue

I also do costume embroidery, I have a commission for the embroidery on the men's shirt in the
Museum of BAth, hence the barrage of emails over the last few weeks.  

The cushion cover is based on a number of different cushions and panels.  The primary source for
the design is a panel shown in Queen Elizabeth's wardrobe unlocked and I belive is at Holyrood,
although I could possibly mistaken.  The design though uses the typcial curling stem design with a
mix of flowers and leaves.  Flowers include pansy, rose, honeysuckle, pomegranate and the leaves
are vine leaves (+ some grapes) and the generic leaf shapes often seen on Elizabethan embroidery.

As I am also making a lady's doublet from patterns of fashion (1585) I am started work on the
research for a set of blackwork sleves.

Rachel

 --- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote: > Oooh! Oooh! Another blackwork fiend! Welcome!
> My current project is multi-year, too, although it's for a shift for a
> costume....based on a couple of portraits I've been carefully gleaning
> over the years--the blackwork runs in stripes roughly 6 inches apart the
> full length of the shift.  Sleeves (finished, thank god) are 22" x 4',
> and the front and back (in progress) are 45" x 4'.  I based the
> dimensions roughly on the 17th c. Italian shift in _Cut My Cote_, with
> additional length in the sleeves to allow for poofing.
> What kind of design are you using for your cushion? I've seen a number
> of them that look pretty "leafy," with grape leaves and such, and all
> the filling patterns.  Or are you doing flowers? <g>
> If I ever get caught up on my clothing projects, I'd *love* to tackle
> some furnishings like you're doing!
> --Sue
> 


=====
Rachel

Tudor Bibliography
http://website.lineone.net/~reholliday/Tudor/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothes in 50 states
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In-Reply-To: <no.id> from "Apollonia Margherita" at Aug 06, 2002 10:11:11 AM
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 08:25:09 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

My sympathies!  I'm from North Carolina too -- moved out
12 years ago.

At least you aren't too far from Colonial Williamsburg, which is a great
place to get inspired.

.heather.


> 
> And I live in the South.  Born and raised in it.  The land of Nascar.
> Hancock's has fabric printed with Nascar images (shudder).  I think the
> standard uniform in North Carolina if you are not in Charlotte, Raleigh or
> Greensboro is a tank top (with Nascar image), jeans and a shotgun.  Possibly
> a can of beer in your other hand. Ugh.
> 
> Apollonia
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Debbie=20Lough?= <debbie_lough@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kirby Hall - History in Action
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 16:30:23 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

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 Brilliant idea! (Only could I skip the actual tea, and have coke instead, (being a non-tea-or-coffee-person)?)   Only other problem is where (ie, on whose campsite)???

Debbie

>Anybody fancy a tea-party? Maybe about half to an hour after closing - 
>time enough to close up, but not so late as to interfere with your 
>beer-tent enjoyment?

>Jean







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<P>&nbsp;Brilliant idea! (Only could I skip the actual tea, and have coke instead, (being a non-tea-or-coffee-person)?)&nbsp;&nbsp; Only other problem is where (ie, on whose campsite)???</P>
<P>Debbie<BR><BR>&gt;Anybody fancy a tea-party? Maybe about half to an hour after closing - <BR>&gt;time enough to close up, but not so late as to interfere with your <BR>&gt;beer-tent enjoyment?<BR><BR>&gt;Jean<BR><BR><BR></P><p><p><br><hr size=1><a href="http://uk.yahoo.com/mail/tagline_xtra/?http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html"><b><font face="Arial" size="2">Get a bigger mailbox -- choose a size that fits your needs.</font></b></a><br><br><a href="http://uk.yahoo.com/mail/tagline_xtra/?http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html"><font face="Arial" size="2">http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html</font></a>
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 12:10:40 -0400
Status: RO

Nascar is car racing.  It's cars turning left in a big oval track.  One race
will go on for hours.  Except, they also race pick-up trucks in a spin-off.
Low-riding compact pick-up trucks.  For hours.    People sit right up next
to the track if they can, and get dirt and all sorts of stuff sprayed on
them.  And people have died in the wrecks on the tracks, because the cars
are going about 200 miles an hour...The town I live in, Salisbury, is about
20 minutes north of Kannapolis, which is where one of Nascar's most famous
drivers grew up, and he wrecked out a died a few years ago.  So now there
are building a huge memorial statue....

Apollonia
----- Original Message -----
From: "N Kipar" <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2002 10:38 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothes in 50 states


> Uhm, what is Nascar? Now I'm intrigued. :-)
>
> Nicole


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From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Thanks to everyone sending explanations
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 15:10:25 -0700
Status: RO

At 9:59 PM +0100 8/5/02, N Kipar wrote:
>Thanks indeed, that was most enlightening! I never knew all that about ren
>faires and I always thought that a ren faire was an SCA gathering. (whooops,
>sorry SCA'lers) I also got a lot more info about overseas, which is really
>appreciated. On top of it all I have been enjoying myself browsing through the
>suggested sites. Some lovely costumes on there.
>
>Thanks for taking the time to explain everything

One of the things that takes some getting used to is that, in the US, 
the term "ren faire" can cover a really wide variety of phenomena -- 
and even the people involved in a particular faire (or a particular 
faire circuit) may not realize that not all faires are like the ones 
they are used to (or may know this intellectually, but forget it in 
the heat of the discussion).  So one person will tell you "what ren 
faires are all about" and then you'll discover that what they told 
you has nothing to do with other events by the same name.  Even the 
"big" faires vary considerably in terms of the reliance on paid 
performers vs. volunteer (but "on staff") performers vs. relying on 
paying customers in costume to help provide "atmosphere", as well as 
historicity of setting, and emphasis on performance entertainment vs. 
merchant space, and so on, and so on. To some extent, the terminology 
isn't finely-detailed enough, so you end up lumping too many things 
together.  It's not unlike the problem with trying to describe the 
wide variety of "hands-on historic-interest hobby" groups, when you 
may find yourself using the same term to convey everything from a 
costumed museum docent doing public education, to a private themed 
party for personal amusement.

Always, in general to ask for and/or provide detailed explanations, 
rather than assumig we know what each other means.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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From: "Apollonia Margherita" <apollonia@bellsouth.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothes in 50 states
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 12:17:10 -0400
Status: RO

I know, that is a good thing.  I haven't had a chance to go up there
recently.  I grew up in Virginia Beach, and went to the Jamestown settlement
a lot...

Apollonia
----- Original Message -----
From: "Heather Meadows" <alice@wonderland.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2002 11:25 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothes in 50 states


> My sympathies!  I'm from North Carolina too -- moved out
> 12 years ago.
>
> At least you aren't too far from Colonial Williamsburg, which is a great
> place to get inspired.
>
> .heather.


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Subject: [h-cost] corset stays
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Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 09:20:16 -0700
Status: RO

Help!

The only place that we know of in our local area (Vancouver, BC, Canada)
that carries metal corset stays has become very unreliable.  Once in a 
while you can go in and get some, but that is happening less and less.

Can the good members of this list recommend a reliable mailorder source?
Is there somewhere in Canada (so we don't have to deal with duty and customs)?

Thank you

Peggy Stonnell

SCA - HL Isobel fitz Gilbert, JdL, GdS, OLC
      Mistress of Arts, Barony of Lions Gate

English Village Society, Village of Stowbrook - Elizabeth Cook

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In a message dated 8/6/2002 10:32:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
apollonia@bellsouth.net writes:


> And I live in the South.  Born and raised in it.  The land of Nascar.
> Hancock's has fabric printed with Nascar images (shudder).  I think the
> standard uniform in North Carolina if you are not in Charlotte, Raleigh or
> Greensboro is a tank top (with Nascar image), jeans and a shotgun.  Possibly
> a can of beer in your other hand. Ugh.
> 

Now why exclude Greensboro and Charlotte? And is the shot gun worn rakishly 
tilted to the left, or straight on? Durham and the Research Triangle are the 
most "Progressive". A phenomenon that I'm sure is also true of Europe, is 
that when you leave the city limits, the close change REAL fast to rural 
incarnations. 
I don't mean to sound prejudice but Black people down here seem to have the 
most fun with their clothes. I've the BEST outfits!

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 8/6/2002 10:32:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time, apollonia@bellsouth.net writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">And I live in the South. &nbsp;Born and raised in it. &nbsp;The land of Nascar.
<BR>Hancock's has fabric printed with Nascar images (shudder). &nbsp;I think the
<BR>standard uniform in North Carolina if you are not in Charlotte, Raleigh or
<BR>Greensboro is a tank top (with Nascar image), jeans and a shotgun. &nbsp;Possibly
<BR>a can of beer in your other hand. Ugh.
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Now why exclude Greensboro and Charlotte? And is the shot gun worn rakishly tilted to the left, or straight on? Durham and the Research Triangle are the most "Progressive". A phenomenon that I'm sure is also true of Europe, is that when you leave the city limits, the close change REAL fast to rural incarnations. 
<BR>I don't mean to sound prejudice but Black people down here seem to have the most fun with their clothes. I've the BEST outfits!</FONT></HTML>

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kirby Hall - History in Action
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 17:37:02 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Debbie Lough <debbie_lough@yahoo.co.uk> wrote: > 
>  Brilliant idea! (Only could I skip the actual tea, and have coke instead,
> (being a non-tea-or-coffee-person)?)   Only other problem is where (ie, on
> whose campsite)???
> 
> Debbie

I don't have coke but could buy some. We have a shelter, coffee and tea. If
anyone has a better facility though for making hot water other than a small
cauldron.... (don't have the coveted big one yet, finances are well stretched
out *L*) then I'd suggest we meet at the camping site with the easiest water
boiling facilty and biggest shelter space.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Renaissance Faires in the U.S.
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 16:19:29 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- A F Murphy <afmmurphy@earthlink.net> wrote: > Cheap hobby? Ha!
> 
> Don't know about England, but ACW? I dipped my toe into that pool once, 
> 7 years ago, looking for a uniform cap for a one-man show. I found an 
> entire world...

*snippage*
Well, I am not sure from which country you are (US?) nor about which
society/group/regiment you are talking about, but the chaps from the ACW
society I talked to said that because they are so many every item is 'mass
produced'. I just paid 3000 pound sterling for my mantua. Yes, that's just the
dress, not the wig, not the shoes, not the accessories other than the fontange.
I don't think one of their uniforms is £ 3000 (that's 4700 dollars appr.),
well, I'm talking about your ordinary foot soldier here. *S*
I have of course heard about and seen piccies of SUPERB officers' uniforms, I
wasn't talking about those though.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renaissance Faires in the U.S.
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 16:24:28 +0100 (BST)
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 --- Rachel <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk> wrote: > 
> Hi Nicole
> 
> Out of interest which members do you know (I'm a member of the TG myself).

Claire and her hubby, they used to be members of Angelcynn.

> We only go as high as the low gentry, but that doesn't mean to say that some
> members don't go a
> little higher than that.  Of course the problem comes with the cash to do it.
>  No-one in the group
> can afford to do a completely accurate court costume (£15,000+ at the last
> estimate).  Shame
> really as I'd love to embroider one myself.

Well, I can assure you, I am certain it could be done for less than that when
resourcing world wide. All in all my 1700 outfit approximates £4500-5000 or so,
but that's because I sourced fabrics, 19th c. handmade laces, 19th c. ribbons,
genuine pearls etc. via the internet from all over the world. I dread to think
how much it would have been if I hadn't hunted for about a year (nay, longer,
more like two years) for all the supplies. Well, I didn't make the dress of
course, that added to the cost a lot, Ninya is not cheap. *laughs* oh no....
Anyway, that's why I really, really HATE rain when I'm in my kit.

Please do tell us, how would you PERFECT pucker Tudor aristocratic be made of
and put together? I'm so curious!!!!

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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In a message dated 8/6/2002 12:29:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
apollonia@bellsouth.net writes:


> The town I live in, Salisbury

We filmed the miniseries "Having our Say," the story of the Delaney [sp] 
Sisters.....and their fight and triumph over prejudice.... we filmed it 
ironically, at Stonewall Jackson school. That's near you, no? Isn't there a 
railroad museum near you. We did the period departure and arrival scenes 
there.
What a nightmare that was. The ENTIRE cast worked that day plus a lot of 
extras. We filmed the little girls departing in 1895 in the morning. Changed 
everybody and filmed the young ladies departing in 1914. Changed everybody 
again and filmed the older ladies departing in 1927. Then that night we did 
it all again but the arrivals. There had to be continuity on the girls and 
family and extras in the trains, But the extras on the platform had to change 
every time. A logistical nightmare.WHAT A DAY THAT WAS! 

I made tons in overtime and meal penalties though.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 8/6/2002 12:29:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time, apollonia@bellsouth.net writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">The town I live in, Salisbury</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>We filmed the miniseries "Having our Say," the story of the Delaney [sp] Sisters.....and their fight and triumph over prejudice.... we filmed it ironically, at Stonewall Jackson school. That's near you, no? Isn't there a railroad museum near you. We did the period departure and arrival scenes there.
<BR>What a nightmare that was. The ENTIRE cast worked that day plus a lot of extras. We filmed the little girls departing in 1895 in the morning. Changed everybody and filmed the young ladies departing in 1914. Changed everybody again and filmed the older ladies departing in 1927. Then that night we did it all again but the arrivals. There had to be continuity on the girls and family and extras in the trains, But the extras on the platform had to change every time. A logistical nightmare.WHAT A DAY THAT WAS! 
<BR>
<BR>I made tons in overtime and meal penalties though.</FONT></HTML>

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In a message dated 8/6/2002 3:24:42 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
hrjones@socrates.Berkeley.EDU writes:


> It's an amusing exercise to come up with reasonably symmetric 
> arrangements for each possible increment.
> 

I always liked the concentric circles.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 8/6/2002 3:24:42 AM Eastern Daylight Time, hrjones@socrates.Berkeley.EDU writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">It's an amusing exercise to come up with reasonably symmetric 
<BR>arrangements for each possible increment.
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>I always liked the concentric circles.</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: State History Museums was: Re: FW: [h-cost] Authenticity ofLucets
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On Mon, 5 Aug 2002, Mary Temple wrote:

> They just celebrated Bastille Day at the French Legation here in
> Austin, Texas. France was the only country to set up an Embassy during
> the Republic, and the building is now a Museum. (very small). Don't
> know if they did it in costume - hmm...another period to costume
> for...?

There's some French Colonial re-enactment here in the St. Louis area, at
at least one local historic site dating from that period. Not my period,
so I don't keep up with it.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Renaissance Faires in the U.S.
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Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 13:21:02 -0400
Status: RO

Oy.  My most expensive costumes probably are in the few hundred dollar 
range, not exceeding $500 for the whole outfit from shoes to hat.  I 
can't begin to imagine spending thousands of dollars for a kit, but 
then, I'm still earning barely living wage at the moment and I'm not 
striving for as-close-as-possible authenticity (usually just "above 
average authenticity on a student budget")... Maybe when I win the 
lottery (or become a rich and famous archeologist, the odds of which 
are just as likely as winning the lotto) I'll fly over to England and 
have Ninya make me a money-is-no-object high Elizabethan gown.  ;)

Sarah
http://www.elizabethanlady.com

>  --- A F Murphy <afmmurphy@earthlink.net> wrote: > Cheap hobby? Ha!
> > 
> > Don't know about England, but ACW? I dipped my toe into that pool 
once, 
> > 7 years ago, looking for a uniform cap for a one-man show. I found 
an 
> > entire world...
> 
> *snippage*
> Well, I am not sure from which country you are (US?) nor about which
> society/group/regiment you are talking about, but the chaps from the 
ACW
> society I talked to said that because they are so many every item 
is 'mass
> produced'. I just paid 3000 pound sterling for my mantua. Yes, that's 
just the
> dress, not the wig, not the shoes, not the accessories other than the 
fontange.
> I don't think one of their uniforms is £ 3000 (that's 4700 dollars 
appr.),
> well, I'm talking about your ordinary foot soldier here. *S*
> I have of course heard about and seen piccies of SUPERB officers' 
uniforms, I
> wasn't talking about those though.
> 
> Nicole
> 
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
> Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: "Apollonia Margherita" <apollonia@bellsouth.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothes in 50 states
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 13:18:15 -0400
Status: RO

You see more sophistication in the bigger cities.  Charlotte has a lot of
people who moved there for the banking industry.  Greensboro has a lot of
people who have moved up in the world, from tank tops to dress shirts.  I
think the Triangle (Raliegh, Durham, and Cary) have the best clothes.  My
theory is that most of them are from somewhere else, having moved here a few
years ago for the job market.

And the shotguns are, tilted rakishly to the left, cocked and ready to go.
:)

Apollonia

----- Original Message -----
From: AlbertCat@aol.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2002 12:50 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothes in 50 states


Now why exclude Greensboro and Charlotte? And is the shot gun worn rakishly
tilted to the left, or straight on? Durham and the Research Triangle are the
most "Progressive". A phenomenon that I'm sure is also true of Europe, is
that when you leave the city limits, the close change REAL fast to rural
incarnations.
I don't mean to sound prejudice but Black people down here seem to have the
most fun with their clothes. I've the BEST outfits!

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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 13:15:43 EDT
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In a message dated 8/6/2002 1:01:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:


> I've the BEST outfits!

Though I do have some good looking ensembles, This was meant to read:

I don't mean to sound prejudice but Black people down here seem to have the 
most fun with their clothes. I've SEEN the BEST outfits! 


Now everyone thinks I'm black. This is OK except it's not true.....and I have 
no rhythm. :-P

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 8/6/2002 1:01:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time, AlbertCat@aol.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I've the BEST outfits!</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"> </BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR>Though I do have some good looking ensembles, This was meant to read:
<BR>
<BR>I don't mean to sound prejudice but Black people down here seem to have the most fun with their clothes. I've SEEN the BEST outfits! 
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>Now everyone thinks I'm black. This is OK except it's not true.....and I have no rhythm. :-P</FONT></HTML>

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 18:36:30 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

Thought I'd have to share, the only photo they had of us, but I think a nice
one, was taken at the parade, it's nice because it shows the costume 'moving'.
It also shows why I took my petticoat back to Ninya to have it shortened! It
was utterly impractically long.

http://www.EventPlan.co.uk/photopages/H2%20C18th%201.htm

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 13:53:58 -0300
Status: RO

Peggy -

The best corset supply house I have ever dealt with is in Canada - and I
live in New York!  You'll enjoy this website.
http://www.farthingales.on.ca

 Martha




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Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 13:36:11 -0500
Status: RO

Very nice photo Nicole, and thanks for the website, they have a good photographer.
Catherine

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothes in 50 states
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 15:11:34 -0400
Status: RO

Oh, it's the same here. And York has a huge Nascar Weekend every year. I
swear the whole city stops for a Nascar race.

Yick.

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Apollonia Margherita" <apollonia@bellsouth.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2002 10:11 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothes in 50 states


> And I live in the South.  Born and raised in it.  The land of Nascar.
> Hancock's has fabric printed with Nascar images (shudder).  I think the
> standard uniform in North Carolina if you are not in Charlotte, Raleigh or
> Greensboro is a tank top (with Nascar image), jeans and a shotgun.
Possibly
> a can of beer in your other hand. Ugh.
>
> Apollonia
>
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Subject: NASCAR - was Re: [h-cost] clothes in 50 states
From: Agnes G <countess11@mac.com>
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Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 12:51:15 -0700
Status: RO

For Nicole and any others who don't know about this peculiarly North
American phenomenon...

NASCAR is stock car racing - but the cars aren't really "stock" or standard
cars at all any more.

Here's some information from a website
(http://www.howstuffworks.com/nascar.htm) that explains a little about the
cars (it however doesn't attempt to explain the fans or how they dress)

begin quote -

In the beginning, stock-car racing was exactly what it sounds like. Drivers
actually bought brand-new cars from dealers and went racing. The National
Association for Stock Car Auto Racing (NASCAR), organized in 1947, created a
standardized set of rules for stock-car racing and established a system for
selecting a national champion based on performance at races across the
country. 

The original races were run on dirt tracks that got rutted and bumpy. The
unmodified cars were not tough enough for this type of abuse, so NASCAR
began allowing modifications to the stock cars to increase their durability.
Over the years, more and more modifications were made, sometimes to increase
safety and sometimes to improve competition. NASCAR strictly controls all of
these modifications, which are spelled out in detail in the NASCAR rule
book. Cars are checked for compliance with these rules at every race.

Today, NASCAR race cars have very little in common with street cars. Almost
every detail of a NASCAR car is handmade. The bodies are built from flat
sheet metal, the engines are assembled from a bare block and the frame is
constructed from steel tubing.

-end quote

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] modern ethnic garments
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 23:27:41 +0100
Status: RO

Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote
>I used to be of the opinion that, since the advent of the universal 
>Westernization of world clothing, any genuine ethnic garment that is 
>still being worn is historical.  But garments like sarees and 
>Palestinian dresses are instances of non-Western historical styles 
>which are still evolving - still being designed, made, and worn.
>
>Sarees are now available in polyester, with modern designs printed on 
>them (in Japan).  Palestinian dresses are sometimes made with 
>Palestinian nationalistic designs cross-stitched on them.  The 
>cross-stitch designs on these garments over the years, whether 
>traditional or from Western pattern books, has evolved in ways even a 
>dilettante Palestinian cross-stitch fan like myself can notice.
>
I saw a documentary recently about "cultural life" (not sure what else 
to call it) in Afghanistan now the Taliban are gone, as people get back 
to their old ways.  They showed traditionally woven Afghan rugs with 
pictures of Russian tanks and weapons on them - apparently this is now a 
"traditional" design, showing how they won the most recent glorious 
victory!

I also, some years ago now, saw a girl in traditional Pakistani 
dress...nearly.  She had short spiky black hair, and was wearing black 
satin shalwar kameez, and a black leather biker jacket.

And tonight I went to a show on the Edinburgh Fringe of Maori dancing, 
where they proclaimed "breakdancing is now traditional Maori dance". 
They're both based on challenge and competition, so why not absorb some 
cool moves from other places? The same is happening with the north 
Indian Bhangra.

I think we often overestimate how westernised other cultures are, and 
fail to realise they are taking bits from the west and assimilating them 
into their own tradition, not the other way round.

Jean

-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kirby Hall - History in Action
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 23:51:43 +0100
Status: RO

Nicole,

At the risk of "inviting myself" (something my mother always said I 
shouldn't do), your camp might be most practical, just because you are, 
I think, the smallest group.  Conquest has a big shelter, but it also 
has 20-30 people milling about and wanting to use it.

I can bring our little gas stove - and cake?

Jean


N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote
> --- Debbie Lough <debbie_lough@yahoo.co.uk> wrote: >
>>  Brilliant idea! (Only could I skip the actual tea, and have coke instead,
>> (being a non-tea-or-coffee-person)?)   Only other problem is where (ie, on
>> whose campsite)???
>>
>> Debbie
>
>I don't have coke but could buy some. We have a shelter, coffee and tea. If
>anyone has a better facility though for making hot water other than a small
>cauldron.... (don't have the coveted big one yet, finances are well stretched
>out *L*) then I'd suggest we meet at the camping site with the easiest water
>boiling facilty and biggest shelter space.
>
>Nicole
>
>=====
>Nicole Kipar M.A.
>Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
>Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
>URL: http://www.kipar.org/
>Email: marquis@kipar.org
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Everything you'll ever need on one web page
>from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
>http://uk.my.yahoo.com
>_______________________________________________
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-- 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothes in 50 states
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 10:17:30 -0700
Status: RO

At 12:48 PM -0700 8/5/02, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
>>Anne is right, we do dress differently in the different states.
>

<snip>


>In Berkeley and San Francisco, large numbers of people dress in 
>t-shirts and jeans, altho the number of, how shall I say, 'sartorial 
>individualists' is much greater here.  I spend time in both 'camps'.

If I had to characterize the Berkeley "sartorial gestalt", it would 
probably come down to, "expect to see just about _anything_ as 
ordinary street wear ... and the cool thing to do is to pretend you 
didn't notice".  Wandering around in downtown Berkeley is pretty much 
the final exam in unflappability training.  I think I'd have to be 
away from here for a while and then return to come up with a more 
coherent description of regional style as a whole.  A lot of it is 
the whole "tossed salad" effect, with large portions of the 
population being relatively recent movers-in (whether from other 
places in the state, in the US, or across the world), and the 
prevailing lassaiz-faire attitude towards style means that there's 
more leeway for people to continue dressing as they're accustomed to.

(But then, I don't pay much attention to "fashion" since I don't 
participate in it much -- I fit in very well here!)

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 10:02:40 +1000
Status: RO


>
>Kent's lovely, isn't it? Just far too many people and cars! That's due to
>blasted London.

I used to think that before living in Melbourne. It has been known for it 
take over 4 hours to drive from one side Melbourne to the other because of 
the urban sprawl and really bad traffic. I currently live between three 
major roads including one of the major state highways.

A random thought occured to me, the uni fiction library has a map with 
australia and the us overprinted on it with a comparision to the uk, I 
might see if I can photcopy it and put it on a webpage. It would give 
people an idea of distances we are all talking about


>Ohhhh, Deal castle, it's a sweetie that one. My absolutely favourite though is
>Dover castle, the view from up there over the English channel is just
>magnificent! On good days you can see France (and dream of chocolate
>croissants...)

Never got to visit Dover, my mother never did see the point in visiting it, 
then again she never saw the attraction in a lot of historical sites. But I 
did like Leeds and Hever.

>When you do, let me know and I 'force' you to come sew with me. :-)


And won't that be terrible :). As it is I want to sew a late 17th century 
dress thanks to your lovely website. : ) I really think this mailing list 
should come with a warning of  something along the lines of different 
costumes eras are contagious and may lead to sewing of costumes from 
different eras to which you have no real purpose for and no where  to wear 
them.  :)

Sharon Nevin

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Subject: NASCAR (was Re: [h-cost] clothes in 50 states
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Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 18:15:25 -0700
Status: RO


>Nascar is car racing.

National Association of Stock Car Automobile Racers.


Kayta

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Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 18:15:53 -0700
Status: RO


>I don't mean to sound prejudice but Black people down here seem to have 
>the most fun with their clothes.

It's not prejudice - they really do.  And the most fun with hair and 
hats.  White people have boring hair and hats.

Kayta

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Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 18:13:58 -0700
Status: RO


>They showed traditionally woven Afghan rugs with pictures of Russian tanks 
>and weapons on them - apparently this is now a "traditional" design, 
>showing how they won the most recent glorious victory!

I have a friend who has a couple of these, in bath-mat size.  Pretty amazing.

>I think we often overestimate how westernised other cultures are, and fail 
>to realise they are taking bits from the west and assimilating them into 
>their own tradition, not the other way round.

Their own cultural dress is evolving in spite of any Westernization.  They 
can tell me what year, or what decade, one of their garments is, or at 
least what generation still wears them.  Then there were the Hippies, who 
wore anything ethnic they could get.  It was a brightly-coloured 
alternative to all those flat, texture-less 'outer-space-look' knit 
mini-dresses.

Kayta

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Kirby Hall - History in Action
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 12:04:43 +0100
Status: RO

Hello All,

Don't know if I'll make it to the Beer Tent..boo hoo!  Long-range forecast
looks pretty grim and I can't very well drag the "wah-wah" (baby) down to
the BT if it's pouring!  DD wouldn't mind, tho', she's a hardened re-enactor
at the age of 8!  If I can make it, I'll be wearing jeans, a t-shirt with
the ECWS "Babe" on it and a stressed-out expression on my face!
----- Original Message -----
From: "N Kipar" <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: 06 August 2002 11:21
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Kirby Hall - History in Action


> --- Debbie Lough <debbie_lough@yahoo.co.uk> wrote: >
> > Will almost definitely be in the beer tent at some point on Friday night
> > (although when depends on how long it takes to set up the Conquest site,
> > after the kit van arrives from Bristol!)
>
> Same here, have to pick up a member/friend from the train station at
around 7.
> Poor Tash (if I may toot her horn, she is one of the almost non-existent
black
> re-enactors in the UK) has done her back in badly and can't hoik her stuff
> around very much.
>
> > Will probably be wearing jeans and t-shirt (barbour and wellies if it
rains)!
> >
> > Debbie.
>
> I hope I'll remember the button rings! I'll be in the 50s red cross
uniform and
> if it rains with a cameo army issue rain jacket on top of it. *L*
>
> Nicole
>
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
> Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: marquis@kipar.org
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Everything you'll ever need on one web page
> from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
> http://uk.my.yahoo.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Forehead cloths in the 17th Century
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 12:12:41 +0100
Status: RO

Kate

 "Welcome to the list, Helen"

Many thanks

"used to be a musketeer and then a drummer"

I am/was a drummer in the ECWS, b4 the baby came along.

Are you going to play "Parson's Farewell"?  It's mine and my eldest
daughter's fave Playford tune and it cheered up our awful rainy Sunday last
KH.  Do you ever do "Cuckolds All in a Row"?

Regards

Helen

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: 06 August 2002 09:29
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Forehead cloths in the 17th Century


> (Catching up on posts after being out of the office most of Monday)
>
>. I do living history with the SK () and also belong to a period music
group, an offshoot of the SK, now independent, the Generalls Musick and
Players.
> I've seen forehead cloths illustrated in the Cunnington book as belonging
with the early style of coif, but I've no idea when and why they were worn.
>
>
>
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kirby Hall - History in Action
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 13:07:45 +0100
Status: RO

Yep Jean, what a good idea - plastic or LH site?  BT - what BT activities!
The closest I'll probably get, is a few bottles of "Golden Glory" with my
family and my brother - ahh, but what fun!

NE1 mind my two daughters coming, too?

Helen
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jean Waddie" <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: 05 August 2002 18:16
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kirby Hall - History in Action


> Anybody fancy a tea-party?  Maybe about half to an hour after closing -
> time enough to close up, but not so late as to interfere with your
> beer-tent enjoyment?
>
> Jean
>
>
> Helen  Partner <mail@helandbel.fsnet.co.uk> wrote
> >Hello All
> >
> >Anyone fancy meeting up at KH?  We're (daughters and myself) not
> >"performing" but will probably get "in kit" (weather and baby-permitting)
> >for some of the time, so our time is our own.  Our group is finished by
1pm.
> >Any takers?
> >Regards
> >
> >Helen
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "N Kipar" <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
> >To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> >Sent: 04 August 2002 14:51
> >Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kirby Hall - History in Action
> >
> >
> >> --- Helen  Partner <mail@helandbel.fsnet.co.uk> wrote: > Morning all,
> >> >
> >> > Just a quick question - is anyone going to Kirby Hall next weekend?
> >> >
> >> > Regards
> >> > Helen
> >>
> >>
> >> Hi Helen, yes I will be going. As far as I know Teddy, Mel, Jean and
Kate
> >are
> >> going too.
> >>
> >> Nicole
> >>
> >> =====
> >> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> >> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
> >> Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
> >> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> >> Email: marquis@kipar.org
> >>
> >> __________________________________________________
> >> Do You Yahoo!?
> >> Everything you'll ever need on one web page
> >> from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
> >> http://uk.my.yahoo.com
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> h-costume mailing list
> >> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> --
> Jean Waddie
> _______________________________________________
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>

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Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Time and underpinnings
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 14:23:54 -0500
Status: RO


> 
> From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
> Date: 2002/08/05 Mon PM 02:28:59 CDT
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Time and underpinnings
> 
> 
> >I disagree. It doesn't affect my research in any particularly big way. It
> >wasn't that the colonies particularly affected the motherland regarding dress,
> >but vice versa.
> 
> What about all that cotton coming in from the American South?  I''d think 
> that affected something, especially after the cotton gin was invented and 
> made cotton really cheap.
> 
> (I'm talking effect here, not whether or not you care about one particular 
> period or country.)
> 
> Kayta

   Not much cotton coming out of the American south in the 17th century.  I think you will find the 17th century textile effects are more Indigo, Cochineal (if you include Spanish America), and botanical influences.

    Her in Virginia at least, cotton was grown, but it was not a cash crop.

Cheers,
Ron

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Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Renaissance Faires in the U.S.
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 14:33:42 -0500
Status: RO


> 
> From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
> Date: 2002/08/06 Tue AM 04:14:38 CDT
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renaissance Faires in the U.S.
> 
> Nicole wrote:
> >There is almost nothing here, people doing the 1st person Tudor thing
> >at Kentwell but proper re-enactment? Friends do 16th century seamen, but
> >otherwise even if I had a costume from Margo's patterns, I wouldn't know
> >whereand when to wear it. *pout8
> 
> There's "The Tudor Group" as well - they do big civilian displays at Kirby.
> 
  Those guys look really good too, if their webpage is to be beleived.

Cheers,
Ron

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Aug  6 22:19:54 2002
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From: "Helen  Partner" <mail@helandbel.fsnet.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: Dumb question about forehead cloths was:RE: [h-cost] Forehead Clothes in the Seventeenth Century
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 20:51:58 +0100
Status: RO



Hello All


Just a quick link b4 I get over excited
http://www.lib.cam.ac.uk/Exhibitions/Cromwell/where.htm

Have a look At Oliver Cromwell's mother's portrait.  I've just been watching
Channel 5's prog on the ECW (seen it b4 on The History Channel)  But, low
and behold, comes a portrait of Cromwell's mother.  On our tv, it looked
suspiciously like she was wearing a fc *over* the coif and with the pointy
end showing!  I could be wrong.  Anyway, if anyone wants to have a look at
it, a small version is shown at the above link.

Comments, puleeeaaase.

Regards

Helen
----- Original Message -----
From: "N Kipar" <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: 05 August 2002 20:45
Subject: Re: Dumb question about forehead cloths was:RE: [h-cost] Forehead
Clothes in the Seventeenth Century


> --- Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote: >
> > These are all coming up really small on my browser, but I'm not sure I
> > can see any of these as separate triangular pieces twinned with coifs -
> > they just look like headscarves or similar tied very low.  Am I missing
> > something vital?
>
> No you are not missing anything vital, this was exactly the point and
question,
> are these even forehead cloths? Also, the triangular piece wouldn't hang
into
> the forehead, but the other edge.
> Oh, and yes, the pix were small, they are details from paintings. :-)
>
> Nicole
>
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
> Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: marquis@kipar.org
>
> __________________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Aug  6 23:19:07 2002
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From: Tracy Bossinger <sionnach1025@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:[h-cost] clothes in 50 states
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 19:59:39 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO



 > 
 > >I don't mean to sound prejudice but Black people
 > down here seem to have 
 > >the most fun with their clothes.
> > 
 > It's not prejudice - they really do.  And the most
 > fun with hair and 
 > hats.  White people have boring hair and hats.
 > 
 > Kayta

<Delurking for a moment>

I live in South Florida and once attended a wedding of
a couple with predominantly Bahamian roots. You could
tell whether the female guests were related to the
bride or the groom according to which one they had:
the bride's side all had highly imaginative hats while
the groom's side all had extremely elaborate
hairstyles. Really made the whole thing very fun!

And my father has adapted one of the Cuban styles as
his own - the guayabera. Goes great with his
Elvis-wannabe almost mutton chops!

<back into lurk mode>
Tracy

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Aug  7 01:19:06 2002
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Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 23:11:17 -0600
Status: RO

That would be really fun! I get used to thinking that our (US) distances
are pretty impressive (at least where I live), but I have this sneaking
suspicion that they're *nothing* compared to Australia!
--sue

Sharon Nevin wrote:
> 

> A random thought occured to me, the uni fiction library has a map with
> australia and the us overprinted on it with a comparision to the uk, I
> might see if I can photcopy it and put it on a webpage. It would give
> people an idea of distances we are all talking about
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Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 23:13:25 -0600
Status: RO

Oooh...you all look spiffy.  That's Ben next to you, isn't it?
--sue

N Kipar wrote:
> 
> Thought I'd have to share, the only photo they had of us, but I think a nice
> one, was taken at the parade, it's nice because it shows the costume 'moving'.
> It also shows why I took my petticoat back to Ninya to have it shortened! It
> was utterly impractically long.
> 
> http://www.EventPlan.co.uk/photopages/H2%20C18th%201.htm
> 
> Nicole
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Subject: [h-cost] Another New Class and more
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 02:11:10 -0400
Status: RO

Wondering if one day all the members of h-costume will be Costume Classroom
instructors or have a vast wardrobe from taking classes (like Sue C.)....
well, I think our new instructor has been on h-costume about as long as I
have or longer.  Franchesca Havas, aka Chesca aka Ches, will be teaching a
class starting Sept. 16 called "Elizabethan Glove Making: Make your own pair
of gloves."  Franchesca will be supplying the kits for the class.

The Glove Making class will end the week before Stephen Bergdahl teaches his
class, "Making an Elizabethan Lady's Wardrobe: Outer Garments" from Margo
Anderson's pattern.  His class starts late October.

Some more exciting news...
Mara Jean Davis, who joined h-costume recently, won a contract yesterday to
build parasols for a new Nicole Kidman film.  YIPPEE!!!

We are all in amazement... Jennie Chancey (who we all love dearly) is due to
have her 4th child anyday now. She plans to start teaching her new class
Monday, "Fact or Fantasy? A Look at Costumes in Recent Regency Film
Adaptations."   {I promise that I am not a slave driver}  Jennie gave birth
to son #3 while teaching a class for us.  The day after she gave birth, she
pulled a laptop in the bed and chatted costumes with her students.  That is
devotion to teaching and costume!

Well, I guess I have caught you all up!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Subject: [h-cost] Hijab (was forehead cloths)
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 02:22:20 -0400
Status: RO

--- Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote: 

>  I've just recently been investigating religious headcovering, 
>> and having had it pointed out to me, noticing that many women wearing 
>> hijab wear a small cap or tied headscarf underneath, which comes down to 
>> the forehead, and the large headscarf sits further back on the head.  >> 

I'm not sure if you are talking about the same styles of hijab that I'm familliar with from what I saw Muslim women wearing in India or not, but afaik it isn't a seperate cap.  Rather the headscarf is draped in such a way as to give the appearance of a seperate cap.  

I stink at describing things like this, but basically the scarf is first draped over the head coming down onto the forehead, with the scarf shorter on one side of the head.  Then the longer side is pulled across the chest and over the head (on about the middle of the head) and then tucked in on the side that was initally left longer.  
When a triangular scarf is worn it is often folded on either side of the forehead, which can also give the appearance of a seperate cap.


Hope this helps,

Katie


---
Buffy:  Does it ever get easy?
Giles:  You mean life?
Buffy:  Yeah. Does it get easy?
Giles:  What do you want me to say?
Buffy:  (looks up at him) Lie to me.
Giles:  (considers a moment) Yes, it's terribly simple.  The good guys are always stalwart and true, the bad guys are 
easily distinguished by their pointy horns or black hats, and, uh, we 
always defeat them and save the day. No one ever dies, and everybody 
lives happily ever after.
Buffy: Liar






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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Photo of Marlburian Officer and Lady 'in action'
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 08:23:02 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote: > Oooh...you all look spiffy. 
That's Ben next to you, isn't it?
> --sue

Yes it is, he's carrying our regiment's flag. Technically he shouldn't... he
portrays an officer (though he also technically appears as being not on duty in
that pic because the gorget he should wear when on duty was not delivered by
the person who cashed the cheque and never delivered the gorget! Do NOT buy
ever from Andrew from Military Metalworks in the UK. he cashed 70 pounds 2
years ago, never did we see the goods and instead he apparently sold the gorget
he did make with ben's money to someone else!!!! We are thinking about going to
court now. Uhm, sorry fr the angry interlude, I'm just really upset about that)
anyway, an ensign should carry the flag, and it is aptly so the regiment's
ensign flag, therw ould be others as well, but specially commissioned sewn
flags are expensive!

Cheerio
Nicole - still stitching on Ben's blasted coat...

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renaissance Faires in the U.S.
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 08:27:39 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

> Claire and her hubby, they used to be members of Angelcynn.

Claire King?  She managed to get hold of some lovely chocolate brown wool for the doublet I'm
making at the moment.  As well as raising the tastiest pigs around.
 
> Well, I can assure you, I am certain it could be done for less than that when
> resourcing world wide. All in all my 1700 outfit approximates £4500-5000 or so,
> but that's because I sourced fabrics, 19th c. handmade laces, 19th c. ribbons,
> genuine pearls etc. via the internet from all over the world. I dread to think
> how much it would have been if I hadn't hunted for about a year (nay, longer,
> more like two years) for all the supplies. Well, I didn't make the dress of
> course, that added to the cost a lot, Ninya is not cheap. *laughs* oh no....
> Anyway, that's why I really, really HATE rain when I'm in my kit.

The one member of the group who does have a silk suit and a very large ruff also has this strange
aversion to rain.  Well his ruff would go all floppy if he did!  That and most of the group would
find the whole episode highly amusing!

> Please do tell us, how would you PERFECT pucker Tudor aristocratic be made of
> and put together? I'm so curious!!!!

Well for a start you could prety much do the whole thing in silk.  The smock could still be of
linen and the linen fabric that I can get hold of direct from Ireland is around £11 a metre, which
isn't too bad.  Then there is the stays, made of silk and boned with either real whalebone or
reeds.  My own corset is boned with reeds and it is so much more comfortable than those done with
the plastic or metal bones.  Real whalebone is where you start to see the huge costs coming in as
it is amazingly expensive stuff.  You have a ruff for the neck, which can be an awful lot of
fabric if you are going for the ridiculous court ruffs.  Partlet, probably embroidered.  Then you
have a farthingale which is linen and willow (fairly cheap), bum roll (linen and wool). 
Petticoats which will be silk.  Then you can either have a kirtle or a forepart depending on the
king of gown you are going to wear over the top, this is of course silk.  Then comes the gown over
the top.  Bearing in mind that silk woven to a C16 pattern has been sourced but it costs £120-£240
a metre you can start to see why the cost adds up.  This is all without the accessories,
embroidered gloves, stomacher, shoes etc that you would need to finish it off.  It isn't hard to
see the cost swiftly mounting, apart from the fact that to get the whole thing ready for next
season would require alot of people doing an awful lot of sewing!

That's a quick overview and I am sure I have left things out along the way.  It's much simpler
doing lower gentry (and cheaper) as your clothes are planer and made of wool.

One day, though!

Rachel

=====
Rachel

Tudor Bibliography
http://website.lineone.net/~reholliday/Tudor/

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Subject: 'perfect elizabethan' was Re: [h-cost] Renaissance Faires in the U.S.
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 08:56:37 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Rachel <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk> wrote: > > 
> Claire King?  She managed to get hold of some lovely chocolate brown wool for
> the doublet I'm
> making at the moment.  As well as raising the tastiest pigs around.

Yep, that's her, known her for years but haven't been in contact much lately
because she ventured on to Tudor and I am mainly doing L'Age d'Or now. Also,
Gloucester is far away and Ben's mum who used to live there died this Easter,
so there is no more reason to go to Gloucestershire. (other tan visiting Sarah
Juniper :-)

> The one member of the group who does have a silk suit and a very large ruff
> also has this strange
> aversion to rain.  Well his ruff would go all floppy if he did!  That and
> most of the group would
> find the whole episode highly amusing!

*laughs!* at least my fontange would only flop forwards. Oh, that reminds me,
but remember to take spraystarch with me, coz we'll stay in the Hilton round
the corner to the Kirby hall site that means I can at least iron and starch it
in the morning if everything goes haywire.

> Well for a start you could prety much do the whole thing in silk. 

Ahh, there we are. Okay, when I got my superb Imperial silk taffeta for the
blue dress that Bjarne made me I paid £40 per meter. Ouch. Well.. now I know
taht the exact same fabric is available for about £15 pounds! You just have to
know the right person to buy it and not buy via a retailer (and certainly not
Radhika's in Bristol)

 The smock
> could still be of
> linen and the linen fabric that I can get hold of direct from Ireland is
> around £11 a metre, which
> isn't too bad.  

I have a source for utterly delicious finest Irish linen for no more than £6
per meter. They are in Leicester.

Then there is the stays, made of silk and boned with either
> real whalebone or
> reeds. 

Real whalebone??? I don't think so dear, and I must admit I would go bonkers if
you did and I woud indeed notify the RSPCA. Whalebone (whales) is strictly
under protection!!! Where the hell would you get it from? I am most intrigued,
and no,  am sorry, not in a good way. How could anyone want to use anything
from a whale still nowadays? Sorry.... but our whale population is dwindling
fast and the thought of using something from a whale and thus probably just
indirectly, but nevertheless, encourage their demise makes my blood boil.
Sorry. *S* 

 My own corset is boned with reeds and it is so much more comfortable
> than those done with
> the plastic or metal bones. 

I can imagine, but since I don't make my own and shell out several hundred per
corset I prefer artificial whalebone, because that lets them live longer. I
wish I didn't despise making cosets so much. :-)

 Real whalebone is where you start to see the
> huge costs coming in as
> it is amazingly expensive stuff. 

See above, sorry but I could not condone such a think, I find the thought
horrific. We know now that whales are highly intelligent, and maybe even more
so than we humans are, I admire whales, I find them most fascinating, they
communicate to each other, they do all sorts of things that we think only
humans do, I could not possibly fathom that.
gh, sorry I shut up now. Is just that I really do love whales. Uhm.

 You have a ruff for the neck, which can be
> an awful lot of
> fabric if you are going for the ridiculous court ruffs. 

What is the ruff made of? I never made one so I don't have a clue. Is it fine
linen?

 Partlet, probably
> embroidered.  

Lovely, that sounds yummy. I like blackwork, such a shame it isn't used in the
period I do anymore.

Then you
> have a farthingale which is linen and willow (fairly cheap), bum roll (linen
> and wool). 
> Petticoats which will be silk.  Then you can either have a kirtle or a
> forepart depending on the
> king of gown you are going to wear over the top, this is of course silk. 
> Then comes the gown over
> the top.  Bearing in mind that silk woven to a C16 pattern has been sourced
> but it costs £120-£240
> a metre you can start to see why the cost adds up. 

I still cannot possibly see £15.000 sorry my dear. £5.000 maybe, but 15.000?
Nope.

 This is all without the
> accessories,
> embroidered gloves, stomacher, shoes etc that you would need to finish it
> off.  It isn't hard to

Yes and where is that different from my period? Granted, I don't have
embroidered gloves (because women didn't wear those anymore, the only
embroidered ones which still linger are in the early 1660s for men) 

> see the cost swiftly mounting, apart from the fact that to get the whole
> thing ready for next
> season would require alot of people doing an awful lot of sewing!

*laughs* for next season? Now THAT makes a difference for sure.

> That's a quick overview and I am sure I have left things out along the way. 
> It's much simpler
> doing lower gentry (and cheaper) as your clothes are planer and made of wool.

And much more booooooooooooooring *grins*

I am though getting together a set of middle class kit for me, there is no way
I want to continue stomping about in the mud in a mantua or silk gown. Yikes!
Wool can be your friend....

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] How I got involved
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 09:09:48 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Sharon Nevin <koidgath@optusnet.com.au> wrote: > 

> And won't that be terrible :). As it is I want to sew a late 17th century 
> dress thanks to your lovely website. : ) I really think this mailing list 
> should come with a warning of  something along the lines of different 
> costumes eras are contagious and may lead to sewing of costumes from 
> different eras to which you have no real purpose for and no where  to wear 
> them.  :)

You just have to be our Australian 'virtual' member then and if you can back it
to a big event, then you have the kit. :-)

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kirby Hall - History in Action
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 09:19:03 +0100
Status: RO

I'm not camping on site this year, but in a fellow-member's garden a few miles away and may well be sharing transport, so count me out, thanks.  But do look me up in the house, and I will try and find your respective camps when I have some free time. We are performing at 1.00 and 3.00 each day.



Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk 08/05/02 06:16pm >>>
Anybody fancy a tea-party?  Maybe about half to an hour after closing - 
time enough to close up, but not so late as to interfere with your 
beer-tent enjoyment?

Jean


Helen  Partner <mail@helandbel.fsnet.co.uk> wrote
>Hello All
>
>Anyone fancy meeting up at KH?  We're (daughters and myself) not
>"performing" but will probably get "in kit" (weather and baby-permitting)
>for some of the time, so our time is our own.  Our group is finished by 1pm.
>Any takers?
>Regards
>
>Helen
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "N Kipar" <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: 04 August 2002 14:51
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kirby Hall - History in Action
>
>
>> --- Helen  Partner <mail@helandbel.fsnet.co.uk> wrote: > Morning all,
>> >
>> > Just a quick question - is anyone going to Kirby Hall next weekend?
>> >
>> > Regards
>> > Helen
>>
>>
>> Hi Helen, yes I will be going. As far as I know Teddy, Mel, Jean and Kate
>are
>> going too.
>>
>> Nicole
>>
>> =====
>> Nicole Kipar M.A.
>> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
>> Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
>> URL: http://www.kipar.org/ 
>> Email: marquis@kipar.org 
>>
>> __________________________________________________
>> Do You Yahoo!?
>> Everything you'll ever need on one web page
>> from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
>> http://uk.my.yahoo.com 
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
>>
>
>_______________________________________________
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: 'perfect elizabethan' was Re: [h-cost] Renaissance Faires in the U.S.
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 09:24:37 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote: > 
> Yep, that's her, known her for years but haven't been in contact much lately
> because she ventured on to Tudor and I am mainly doing L'Age d'Or now. Also,
> Gloucester is far away and Ben's mum who used to live there died this Easter,
> so there is no more reason to go to Gloucestershire. (other tan visiting Sarah
> Juniper :-)

She'll be at Kirby this year with the group.  Can't remember what they will be doing though, or
indeed where they will be.

 
>  The smock
> > could still be of
> > linen and the linen fabric that I can get hold of direct from Ireland is
> > around £11 a metre, which
> > isn't too bad.  
> 
> I have a source for utterly delicious finest Irish linen for no more than £6
> per meter. They are in Leicester.

I'd be interested in that, if you care to pass on the details?
 
> Then there is the stays, made of silk and boned with either
> > real whalebone or
> > reeds. 
> 
> Real whalebone??? I don't think so dear, and I must admit I would go bonkers if
> you did and I woud indeed notify the RSPCA. Whalebone (whales) is strictly
> under protection!!! Where the hell would you get it from? I am most intrigued,
> and no,  am sorry, not in a good way. How could anyone want to use anything
> from a whale still nowadays? Sorry.... but our whale population is dwindling
> fast and the thought of using something from a whale and thus probably just
> indirectly, but nevertheless, encourage their demise makes my blood boil.
> Sorry. *S* 

I completely agree with you.  Personally speaking I couldn't use them either, but the Elizabethans
did.  Fortunately there are alternatives that we can use and still be completely authentic, such
as the reeds or bents.

>>  My own corset is boned with reeds and it is so much more comfortable
> > than those done with
> > the plastic or metal bones. 
> 
> I can imagine, but since I don't make my own and shell out several hundred per
> corset I prefer artificial whalebone, because that lets them live longer. I
> wish I didn't despise making cosets so much. :-)
> 

My corset was one of the first things I made.  Not too diffcult but I'm glad I won't have to ram
the reeds down it again for a few more years at least.  It seriously hurts your fingers.  You'd
never beliwve that what looks like a thick blade of grass could possibly be so tough.

> 
>  You have a ruff for the neck, which can be
> > an awful lot of
> > fabric if you are going for the ridiculous court ruffs. 
> 
> What is the ruff made of? I never made one so I don't have a clue. Is it fine
> linen?

It is as fine a linen as you can get hold of.  For some ruffs you could have up to 12 times your
neck measurement gathered, pined and set.  They are very fidly to get right particuarly setting
the pleats themselves, hence why you don't want your starch dissolving in the rain.
 
>  Partlet, probably
> > embroidered.  
> 
> Lovely, that sounds yummy. I like blackwork, such a shame it isn't used in the
> period I do anymore.

It's one of my favourite types of embroidery, so stylish.  The main problem with it is having to
carry the patterns round in your head as trying to copy directly from a book never looks right.

> I still cannot possibly see £15.000 sorry my dear. £5.000 maybe, but 15.000?
> Nope.

Either way it's more money than I can afford on a scientists salary!

> > see the cost swiftly mounting, apart from the fact that to get the whole
> > thing ready for next
> > season would require alot of people doing an awful lot of sewing!
> 
> *laughs* for next season? Now THAT makes a difference for sure.

Sponsers don't always even give you that much notice!  I'm sure it's the same for your period,
it's not so much the cost of the materials as the wages for the people who are to make it up.

> > That's a quick overview and I am sure I have left things out along the way. 
> > It's much simpler
> > doing lower gentry (and cheaper) as your clothes are planer and made of wool.
> 
> And much more booooooooooooooring *grins*

I know!  Some events you catch a look at yourself in the mirror and think "What a frump!", I'd
love to do something posher, perhaps I'll diversify once I have my Tudor kit complete.  
 
> I am though getting together a set of middle class kit for me, there is no way
> I want to continue stomping about in the mud in a mantua or silk gown. Yikes!
> Wool can be your friend....

That must look really fetching - fantastic silk mantua splattered with mud.  For events like Kirby
wool is certianly practicle, not perhaps always flattering.  

Have a lovely time at Kirby, perhaps we'll get to meet up at some other event/traders fair some
time.

Rachel



=====
Rachel

Tudor Bibliography
http://website.lineone.net/~reholliday/Tudor/

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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 09:40:55 +0100
Status: RO

She obviously outlived her husband by a long time - is it what they call a "widow's peak"?
I enjoyed the programme, but there were some odd choices of background pictures. A Pieter de Hoogh interior was shown for no obvious reason during commentary about the King's execution, and the painting of Charles dictating to an officer using a drum as a table was shown in such a way as to imply that they thought the other man was Cromwell!


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> mail@helandbel.fsnet.co.uk 08/06/02 08:51pm >>>

Hello All

Just a quick link b4 I get over excited
http://www.lib.cam.ac.uk/Exhibitions/Cromwell/where.htm 

Have a look At Oliver Cromwell's mother's portrait.  I've just been watching
Channel 5's prog on the ECW (seen it b4 on The History Channel)  But, low
and behold, comes a portrait of Cromwell's mother.  On our tv, it looked
suspiciously like she was wearing a fc *over* the coif and with the pointy
end showing!  I could be wrong.  Anyway, if anyone wants to have a look at
it, a small version is shown at the above link.

Comments, puleeeaaase.

Regards

Helen


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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 09:46:59 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote: > Nicole,
> 
> At the risk of "inviting myself" (something my mother always said I 
> shouldn't do), your camp might be most practical, just because you are, 
> I think, the smallest group.  Conquest has a big shelter, but it also 
> has 20-30 people milling about and wanting to use it.
> 
> I can bring our little gas stove - and cake?

That's perfectly fine, Jean. I am not 100% sure yet where we are, even Mark
Griffin wasn't certain! Said that we might be in the 'village' (????) I don't
have a clue where that is, can't see it on the map, but will probably be with
the Napoleonics. hang on, just in case you haven't seen it yet, here's a map:

http://arts-humanities.cant.ac.uk/temp/map-kirby.gif

We have four members who might occupy the comfy chairs :-) but we have stools
and benches.
You're most welcome! cake is always appreciated. :-))
In regards to coke, full fat or diet?

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 09:27:00 +0100
Status: RO




>>I think we often overestimate how westernised other cultures are, and fail 
>>to realise they are taking bits from the west and assimilating them into 
>>their own tradition, not the other way round.

>Their own cultural dress is evolving in spite of any Westernization.  They 
>can tell me what year, or what decade, one of their garments is, or at 
>least what generation still wears them.  

A Sikh colleague of mine and her husband ran a business some years ago importing modern fashions of Punjabi costume, which you could not then buy here in Derby, UK - i.e. the traditional tunic and trousers, but in unusual fabrics and cuts. She wears Western dress at work, but I saw her in some of their stock at social events.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 09:30:33 +0100
Status: RO

Helen wrote:

>Are you going to play "Parson's Farewell"?  It's mine and my eldest
>daughter's fave Playford tune and it cheered up our awful rainy Sunday last
>KH.  Do you ever do "Cuckolds All in a Row"?

Both tunes are in our repertoire, but I don't think either is in the programmes for this weekend. If you come along we'll have to see what we can do!



Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Subject: Re: 'perfect elizabethan' was Re: [h-cost] Renaissance Faires in the U.S.
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 10:08:34 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Rachel <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk> wrote: > 
> She'll be at Kirby this year with the group.  Can't remember what they will
> be doing though, or
> indeed where they will be.

I saw her at Cressing Temple last, and at last year's Kirby. Have to check the
map where they might be.

> I'd be interested in that, if you care to pass on the details?

I have their phone number at home, but they will surely be at the (formerly
Oxford) now Warwick market. 

> I completely agree with you.  Personally speaking I couldn't use them either,
> but the Elizabethans
> did. 

Yes... but taht does mean tyhat we have changed and evolved in this respect (if
in others? Not too sure..) and that we don't have to use it. I have no problems
using artificial whalebone, this being the ONLY man-made non period
fibre/material that I don't mind being used, just because we have understood
now hopefully, that slaughtering whales is not a good thing.

 Fortunately there are alternatives that we can use and still be
> completely authentic, such
> as the reeds or bents.

Very true, though not in my period and not for the level of society I portray.
It was baleen, and in all of the surviving corsets it is baleen.

> 
> My corset was one of the first things I made.  Not too diffcult but I'm glad
> I won't have to ram
> the reeds down it again for a few more years at least.  It seriously hurts
> your fingers.  You'd
> never beliwve that what looks like a thick blade of grass could possibly be
> so tough.

Yikes! It sounds even worse than the by now hated red coat, where I had/have to
sew with a custom made leather thimble (or the silk thread just tears away when
using a normal thimble), a leather needle to sew through the wool (!) and
pliers to pull the blasted needle back out after I've 'hammered' it in.

> It is as fine a linen as you can get hold of.  For some ruffs you could have
> up to 12 times your
> neck measurement gathered, pined and set.  They are very fidly to get right
> particuarly setting
> the pleats themselves, hence why you don't want your starch dissolving in the
> rain.

Oh I can imagine, it sounds like a major amount of work!

> Either way it's more money than I can afford on a scientists salary!

I can't afford my dresses (and all the tent equipment either)! I don't have a
mortgage nor pay I rent though. Next year I really really have to steer clear
from new costumes.

> Sponsers don't always even give you that much notice!  I'm sure it's the same
> for your period,
> it's not so much the cost of the materials as the wages for the people who
> are to make it up.

Ahhh, but I don't let THEM dictate what we will wear. I tell them which decade
we do when and hw we can accomodate them and if they don't agree, tough. Also,
we only do events that sound fun. I would like to do more museum and stately
home work, just for one reason, it doesn't matter that it rains! We are invited
to do Wrest park next year (they have a lovely orangery) and to have a tea
party as well as period supper for the spectators. now I can live with that...

> I know!  Some events you catch a look at yourself in the mirror and think
> "What a frump!", I'd
> love to do something posher, perhaps I'll diversify once I have my Tudor kit
> complete.  

Trust me, doing early Anglo-Saxon or late Roman is worse! I 'hated' all those
ladies in te very chic clothes during the day and in the eertent while I was
inthat awful sausage-type peplos gown (sausage coz it makes you look like one
tied in the midle) or layers of coloured linen all wrapped around and making
you look fat and unstylish. Now though I wish myself back to being ugly in
those, when I am frightened todeath taht something might spill onto my dresses
*LOL* I have to seriously learn how to be content and happy at any given time..

> That must look really fetching - fantastic silk mantua splattered with mud.

Ohhhh no.....  just don't go out of teh shelter then.
 
> For events like Kirby
> wool is certianly practicle, not perhaps always flattering.  

Oh it can be, I have a lovely dark green skirt and it goes well with the cherry
silk bodice. A fine wool together with a silk something is no proble for
affluent midle class.

Nicole - wanting to wear army boots on her feet in the mud under the skirts though!

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Dumb question about forehead cloths was:RE: [h-cost] Forehead Clothes in the Seventeenth Century
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 10:12:30 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote: > She obviously outlived
her husband by a long time - is it what they call a
> "widow's peak"?

That could well be, Kate. Also, there are several types of these middle-peaked
coifs in my collection of images, and they are part of the actual coif, not a
separate thing.

http://arts-humanities.cant.ac.uk/temp/Focus/1661_WOMAN_METSU.JPG
Her black coif peaks.

http://arts-humanities.cant.ac.uk/temp/Focus/1663_DANCING-COUPLE_STEEN5.JPG
Her white one does.

http://arts-humanities.cant.ac.uk/temp/Focus/1665-68_RHETORICIANS_STEEN.JPG
Hers is extra cute.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 11:40:01 +0200 (CEST)
Status: RO

On Wed, 7 Aug 2002, N Kipar wrote:
> I have a source for utterly delicious finest Irish linen for no more than £6
> per meter. They are in Leicester.

Oooh - do they have a website? Or do mail order outside the UK?

Ingrid

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 I'd agree with Jean, too many people and not enough space on the Conquest site, even with the big shelter.  Coupled with the fact that all of the real cooking stuff belongs to the group (cauldron and fire, etc.)  

And thanks, but I don't mind bringing my own coke (not like there'll be a shortage of places to get it!)

Debbie.



>Nicole,

>At the risk of "inviting myself" (something my mother always said I 
>shouldn't do), your camp might be most practical, just because you are, 
>I think, the smallest group. Conquest has a big shelter, but it also 
>has 20-30 people milling about and wanting to use it.

>I can bring our little gas stove - and cake?

>Jean


>>N Kipar wrote
>>> --- Debbie Lough wrote: >
>>> Brilliant idea! (Only could I skip the actual tea, and have coke instead,
>>> (being a non-tea-or-coffee-person)?) Only other problem is where (ie, on
>>> whose campsite)???
>>>
>>> Debbie
>
>>I don't have coke but could buy some. We have a shelter, coffee and tea. If
>>anyone has a better facility though for making hot water other than a small
>>cauldron.... (don't have the coveted big one yet, finances are well stretched
>>out *L*) then I'd suggest we meet at the camping site with the easiest water
>>boiling facilty and biggest shelter space.
>
>>Nicole






---------------------------------
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<P>&nbsp;I'd agree with Jean, too many people and not enough space on the Conquest site, even with the big shelter.&nbsp; Coupled with the fact that all of the real cooking stuff belongs to the group (cauldron and fire, etc.)&nbsp; </P>
<P>And thanks, but I don't mind bringing my own coke (not like there'll be a shortage of places to get it!)</P>
<P>Debbie.</P>
<P><BR><BR>&gt;Nicole,<BR><BR>&gt;At the risk of "inviting myself" (something my mother always said I <BR>&gt;shouldn't do), your camp might be most practical, just because you are, <BR>&gt;I think, the smallest group. Conquest has a big shelter, but it also <BR>&gt;has 20-30 people milling about and wanting to use it.<BR><BR>&gt;I can bring our little gas stove - and cake?<BR><BR>&gt;Jean<BR><BR><BR>&gt;&gt;N Kipar <NICOLAS_FOUQUET@YAHOO.COM>wrote<BR>&gt;&gt;&gt; --- Debbie Lough <DEBBIE_LOUGH@YAHOO.CO.UK>wrote: &gt;<BR>&gt;&gt;&gt; Brilliant idea! (Only could I skip the actual tea, and have coke instead,<BR>&gt;&gt;&gt; (being a non-tea-or-coffee-person)?) Only other problem is where (ie, on<BR>&gt;&gt;&gt; whose campsite)???<BR>&gt;&gt;&gt;<BR>&gt;&gt;&gt; Debbie<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt;&gt;I don't have coke but could buy some. We have a shelter, coffee and tea. If<BR>&gt;&gt;anyone has a better facility though for making hot water other than a small<BR>&gt;&gt;cauldron.... (don't!
 have the coveted big one yet, finances are well stretched<BR>&gt;&gt;out *L*) then I'd suggest we meet at the camping site with the easiest water<BR>&gt;&gt;boiling facilty and biggest shelter space.<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt;&gt;Nicole<BR><BR></P><p><p><br><hr size=1><a href="http://uk.yahoo.com/mail/tagline_xtra/?http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html"><b><font face="Arial" size="2">Get a bigger mailbox -- choose a size that fits your needs.</font></b></a><br><br><a href="http://uk.yahoo.com/mail/tagline_xtra/?http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html"><font face="Arial" size="2">http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html</font></a>
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 10:59:30 +0100 (BST)
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 --- Debbie Lough <debbie_lough@yahoo.co.uk> wrote: > 
>  I'd agree with Jean, too many people and not enough space on the Conquest
> site, even with the big shelter.  Coupled with the fact that all of the real
> cooking stuff belongs to the group (cauldron and fire, etc.)  

That's fine, I 'forewarned' my members and lured them with Jean's cake. I
better get some bikkies too.

> And thanks, but I don't mind bringing my own coke (not like there'll be a
> shortage of places to get it!)

Rightyho! I have sugar and milk.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 11:00:45 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Ingrid_G._Storrø <ingridgs@studorg.hiof.no> wrote: > On Wed, 7 Aug 2002, N
Kipar wrote:
> > I have a source for utterly delicious finest Irish linen for no more than
> £6
> > per meter. They are in Leicester.
> 
> Oooh - do they have a website? Or do mail order outside the UK?
> 
> Ingrid

No they don't have  aweb site, sorry, they only have good old telephone.
Unfortunately I just realised that they moved and they gave me their new number
at Hounslow, now can I find it? Noooooo!!! I have to hope they are at the Kirby
market.

Nicole

=====
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Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 11:07:24 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

I was just wondering (while stitching the last bits on the blasted redcoat)
what people like best in making costumes. I actually don't like making the
costumes themselves, I can't even stand it, that's why I always start so late.
I don't even particularly like sewing. *laughs*
Don't get me wrong, I am not forced or anything, but making things like a coat,
or breeches or something, properly fitted outer garments akes me sweat blood
and tears, that is no fun.
I DO like making accessoris very much though. Coifs, hoods, caps, aprons, and
even underwear like shirts and shifts, I find the stitching of long flat-felled
seams very therapeutic. Small things I like, lovely to carry around and
peaceful to stitch, big things I don't like.
What I like best is making accessories.
What I dislike the most is having to mend/alter/fix big things.

What does everone else like best/worst in making costumes?

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: 'perfect elizabethan' was Re: [h-cost] Renaissance Faires in the U.S.
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 11:22:01 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote: >  --- Rachel <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> I saw her at Cressing Temple last, and at last year's Kirby. Have to check the
> map where they might be.

Good luck, last years map was more a hindrance than a help!  I got totally lost trying to find the
group.
 
> I have their phone number at home, but they will surely be at the (formerly
> Oxford) now Warwick market. 

To be honest I had no idea it had moved.  I guess I must have missed the notices in March.  Do you
have any more details, I have a mounting shopping list for Christmas goodies!

> Yes... but taht does mean tyhat we have changed and evolved in this respect (if
> in others? Not too sure..) and that we don't have to use it. I have no problems
> using artificial whalebone, this being the ONLY man-made non period
> fibre/material that I don't mind being used, just because we have understood
> now hopefully, that slaughtering whales is not a good thing.

Slaughtering any animal should, in my opinion, only ever be done in a humane way and for a
suitable purpose.  I don't consider it either justifable, necessary or in any way right that an
animal should be hunted to the brink of extinction and in such as mannar.  Harpooning is a horrid
way to die, being neither quick nor painless.  It makes me sick to even think about it.  

I don't want to you get the idea that I was recommending the use of whalebone.  Aside from the
animals rights to life etc, it is impracticle for a living history costume that is only going to
be worn a couple of times a year.  The bones need the heat and moisture of the body or else they
become brittle and useless.  This just adds insult to injury.  Not only has a magnificent animal
been slaughtered, but the bones are now totally useless and have to be thrown away!  
 
>  Fortunately there are alternatives that we can use and still be
> > completely authentic, such
> > as the reeds or bents.
> 
> Very true, though not in my period and not for the level of society I portray.
> It was baleen, and in all of the surviving corsets it is baleen.

Unfortunately very few Elizabethan corsets have survived.  But one that has is boned with reeds
not whalebone.  At least I can use the reeds, rather than resorting to man-made bones.  

> Yikes! It sounds even worse than the by now hated red coat, where I had/have to
> sew with a custom made leather thimble (or the silk thread just tears away when
> using a normal thimble), a leather needle to sew through the wool (!) and
> pliers to pull the blasted needle back out after I've 'hammered' it in.

Any sewing that I get that needs that kind of force gets handed over to Simon.  While not a sewer
his fingers are at least 10x stronger than mine and I don't end up with holes in my thumbs!  I
hope the coat was worth all the blood and tears in the end.
 
> Ahhh, but I don't let THEM dictate what we will wear. I tell them which decade
> we do when and hw we can accomodate them and if they don't agree, tough. Also,
> we only do events that sound fun. I would like to do more museum and stately
> home work, just for one reason, it doesn't matter that it rains! We are invited
> to do Wrest park next year (they have a lovely orangery) and to have a tea
> party as well as period supper for the spectators. now I can live with that...

Every so often there are mumerings of doing a posh event by some of the sponsers until we give
them a quote for the cost of the costumes.  They become quite interested in the lower classes at
that point!  

> Trust me, doing early Anglo-Saxon or late Roman is worse! I 'hated' all those
> ladies in te very chic clothes during the day and in the eertent while I was
> inthat awful sausage-type peplos gown (sausage coz it makes you look like one
> tied in the midle) or layers of coloured linen all wrapped around and making
> you look fat and unstylish. Now though I wish myself back to being ugly in
> those, when I am frightened todeath taht something might spill onto my dresses
> *LOL* I have to seriously learn how to be content and happy at any given time..

Every so often I fancy doing early Georgian, just for the embroidery.  However the need for a wig
usually puts me off.  Tudor's great if you have shorter hair as you can just stuff it into a coif.
 

Rachel

=====
Rachel

Tudor Bibliography
http://website.lineone.net/~reholliday/Tudor/

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: H-Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your favourite sewing/needlework?
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 06:14:38 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Wed, 7 Aug 2002, [iso-8859-1] N Kipar wrote:

> I was just wondering (while stitching the last bits on the blasted
> redcoat) what people like best in making costumes. I actually don't
> like making the costumes themselves, I can't even stand it, that's why
> I always start so late. I don't even particularly like sewing.
> ...
> What I like best is making accessories.
> What I dislike the most is having to mend/alter/fix big things.

Oh, how funny, Nicole! You and I should make a team!

After spending years making full outfits to wear, I found I was less
interested in "playing" in reenactment and more interested in just the
costume research. As I began sewing only what I needed to support the
research, I realized that I had never liked doing the accessories --
headdress, hose, shoes, belts, jewelry, pouches, gloves -- and did them
only because I needed to complete the outfits for purposes of wearing
them. Once I stopped needing to wear them, I stopped sewing them.

What I like best is working out the big things -- figuring out the cut of
a garment so it uses a fabric type and width appropriate for the period, a
range of technologies known in the period, and a sequence of steps that
could be done by the type of people who did the work with the tools they
had available, and so that it produces a result that drapes as it appears
in pictures and behaves as described in documents. Once I have the cutting
method down, I lose interest. I never bother to add trim or decorations,
and I may not even finish the seams or hem unless I'm testing how it
affects the wear/hang.

Rather than make a piece for myself to wear, now, I usually find a willing
student/model of suitable body type who will let me experiment on her/him.
It's easier to do the fitting that way, anyway. Then that person takes the
stuff away and trims it and accessorizes it and wears it to reenactments
and reports back to me. Sometimes I'm smart enough to take pictures before
it disappears forever :-P

I have to have a certain number of costumes for myself, mostly for lecture
and demonstration purposes, which is very annoying. But it's more reliable
than trying to get my test subjects in the same place as my lectures. One
year at the International Medieval Congress at Kalamazoo I managed to get
three of my fitted dress subjects in one place so I could actually present
a paper on the topic. I scheduled that lecture for the year that one of
the women was giving a paper of her own -- she wouldn't have come to the
conference otherwise. The other two were regulars, fortunately. The three
of them had three distinct body types (one tall and voluptuous, one
slender and willowy, one short and plump) and their dresses were in three
different fabrics (silk, linen, wool). I don't think I could ever pull
that one off again.

--Robin

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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 07:07:32 -0600
Status: RO

No kidding! ;-)
I came into just doing primarily 16th c. English/French, and now there's
the Anglo-Saxon, and the 13th c. German, and the Gothic Fitted Gowns,
and the 16th c. middle-class Flemish, and a Restoration dress (like some
of the stuff Nicole's got...I keep drooling at that blue dress Bjarne
made!), and some mid-late 18th c. American Colonial clothing
(middle-class, here), and I'd really love a sack-backed gown, and one of
those great outfits with the shorter gown and quilted petticoats....
--Sue

> --- Sharon Nevin <koidgath@optusnet.com.au> wrote: >
> 
> > And won't that be terrible :). As it is I want to sew a late 17th century
> > dress thanks to your lovely website. : ) I really think this mailing list
> > should come with a warning of  something along the lines of different
> > costumes eras are contagious and may lead to sewing of costumes from
> > different eras to which you have no real purpose for and no where  to wear
> > them.  :)
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 'perfect elizabethan' was Re: [h-cost] Renaissance Faires in the U.S.
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 14:04:35 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Rachel <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk> wrote: > 

> To be honest I had no idea it had moved.  I guess I must have missed the
> notices in March.  Do you
> have any more details, I have a mounting shopping list for Christmas goodies!

I only found out at Hounslow, traders had the notice on the market. It's at the
Warwick leasure centre or something, I don't know more yet either.

> Every so often there are mumerings of doing a posh event by some of the
> sponsers until we give
> them a quote for the cost of the costumes.  They become quite interested in
> the lower classes at
> that point!  

Quote for costumes? Now that's a new one, so you vary the fee according to what
you wear? Interesting concept, I guess that's why we always just struggle
around the insurance-payment mark, we only do what looks like fun and some of
the fun things are not paid at all but fun-fun. *L*

> Every so often I fancy doing early Georgian, just for the embroidery. 
> However the need for a wig
> usually puts me off.  

Why? It's not a problem at all to wear a wig. A good wig feels just like a hat
and no worse. It really isn't bad. *S*

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 07:12:33 -0600
Status: RO

Holy sh!t, Nicole! Can I pretty-please have your clothing budget? <g>
--Sue, making do with much cheaper stuff ;-(

N Kipar wrote:
> 
 
> *snippage*
>  I just paid 3000 pound sterling for my mantua. Yes, that's just the
> dress, not the wig, not the shoes, not the accessories other than the fontange.
> I don't think one of their uniforms is £ 3000 (that's 4700 dollars appr.),
> well, I'm talking about your ordinary foot soldier here.
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 14:13:00 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Actually, some people from England aren't English - they're British. I
> met a man from up near the Scottish/English border not far from
> Yorkshire who told me about the first time he was called English here
> in the States. He thought they were referring to someone else,
> because, as he said "I'm not English, I'm British. I have no Saxon
> blood". York was part of England pre 1603, but he claimed his
> ethnicity from further back than England!

Actually, I always maintain to be English, not British.  

I am from England, not Ireland, Wales or Scotland, therefore I am 
English. 

I think it should be more a matter of personal preference (English 
vs. British, Welsh vs. British etc) rather than a hard and fast rule.


Teddy
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 07:25:42 -0600
Status: RO

Ooooh....good one.  My favorite parts are probably the research,
planning and the initial stages (where I'm choosing among fabrics and
buttons and trims in my fabric stash)....I'm really lousy about
follow-through, which means I've been living with a whole lot of
unfinished stuff that I'm now giving away locally (on an SCA list for my
region/kingdom).
I used to just adore sewing on the machine, but spent nine years doing
it for a living (2 as a tailor/alterations person in a dry cleaners, and
7 making tents, tipis, etc.), and that just about ruined it for me, even
if it did get me to a scary-fast stage where I like to do basic straight
sewing and such without pins.  So my favorite parts of actual sewing are
things like the embroidery for the caps and shifts, and I'm learning
hand-sewing stitches for the seams, and learning to make bobbin laces
and passementaire (sp?) so I can do my own lace and braids for my 16th
c. stuff.  And I kinda enjoy hand-rolled hems on veils and such.
My least-favorite sewing would have to be the really boring utilitarian
cr@p like endless hems, or hand-sewing a bodice lining to a curved
armhole.  And zippers (yucko!) on modern stuff.
--Sue


N Kipar wrote:
><snippage> 

> What I like best is making accessories.
> What I dislike the most is having to mend/alter/fix big things.
> 
> What does everone else like best/worst in making costumes?
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 14:18:11 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


>  and the New Zealand men! WHOOHOO! *thinks she has to
> move to Kiwi land*

Nicole!  Your liking for men in skirts is showing again!

Besides, most of the Kiwi's are in England or travelling the world 
anyway.  I swear that I meet more new-zealanders who are 
"travelling" to see the world or who have relocated to England than 
any other nationality!



Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your favourite sewing/needlework?
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 09:25:40 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

Hm...I have to say that what I really love is the preliminary research, 
the designing of the pattern and fitting of the sloper.  My other favorite
part of the process is putting the finished garment on and saying "wow! It
worked perfectly!" (which doesn't happen as often as I like, but is really
cool when it does.)
 
Everything in between--hand finishing, buttonholes & lacing holes (oh, the
humanity!), hem-stitching, fiddling with pleats, basting, re-fitting and
adjusting, etc. is so-so. But that first fitted sloper inspires me, and
looking forward to the finished garment is what keeps me going. 

After that, the thing I like best is having an excuse to hold several
yards of luxurious fabric between my hands for hours on end.  ;>

Drea

 On Wed, 7 Aug 2002, [iso-8859-1]
N Kipar wrote:

> I was just wondering (while stitching the last bits on the blasted redcoat)
> what people like best in making costumes. I actually don't like making the
> costumes themselves, I can't even stand it, that's why I always start so late.
> I don't even particularly like sewing. *laughs*
> Don't get me wrong, I am not forced or anything, but making things like a coat,
> or breeches or something, properly fitted outer garments akes me sweat blood
> and tears, that is no fun.
> I DO like making accessoris very much though. Coifs, hoods, caps, aprons, and
> even underwear like shirts and shifts, I find the stitching of long flat-felled
> seams very therapeutic. Small things I like, lovely to carry around and
> peaceful to stitch, big things I don't like.
> What I like best is making accessories.
> What I dislike the most is having to mend/alter/fix big things.
> 
> What does everone else like best/worst in making costumes?
> 
> Nicole
> 
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
> Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: marquis@kipar.org
> 
> __________________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Renaissance Faires in the U.S.
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 14:26:02 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote: > Holy sh!t, Nicole! Can I
pretty-please have your clothing budget? <g>
> --Sue, making do with much cheaper stuff ;-(

*LOL* sure, if you pay off my credit card for me?

Nicole - with ONE big and expensive passion: costumes

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 07:39:00 -0600
Status: RO

You guys in the UK can actually *get* real whalebone? I think it's a
forbidden import here in the US...if I wanted to do a corset or pair of
bodies with whalebone, I'd have to use the fake stuff (I hear there are
some reasonable plastic substitutes, but I haven't pursued them).
The costs thing here for doing the more elaborate time periods
authentically is really interesting....I've been a big fan of 16th c.
stuff for a long time (love the elaborate combinations, textures,
colors, etc.), and, being in the SCA, could make fairly cheap
alternatives using metallic trims, fake pearls, cotton upholstery
fabrics, etc.  Now, thanks to the influence of folks on this list in
particular ! (thanks so much ;-), I've definitely moved from the
glitzy-but-acceptable-where-I-am to the plainer-but-more-authentic.  And
it's just as much fun.  I'm having a hell of a time finding any useful
wools, though.....*sigh*.....
--Sue

Rachel wrote:
> 

>
> Well for a start you could prety much do the whole thing in silk.  The smock could still be of
> linen and the linen fabric that I can get hold of direct from Ireland is around £11 a metre, which
> isn't too bad.  Then there is the stays, made of silk and boned with either real whalebone or
> reeds.  My own corset is boned with reeds and it is so much more comfortable than those done with
> the plastic or metal bones.  Real whalebone is where you start to see the huge costs coming in as
> it is amazingly expensive stuff.  You have a ruff for the neck, which can be an awful lot of
> fabric if you are going for the ridiculous court ruffs.  Partlet, probably embroidered.  Then you
> have a farthingale which is linen and willow (fairly cheap), bum roll (linen and wool).
> Petticoats which will be silk.  Then you can either have a kirtle or a forepart depending on the
> king of gown you are going to wear over the top, this is of course silk.  Then comes the gown over
> the top.  Bearing in mind that silk woven to a C16 pattern has been sourced but it costs £120-£240
> a metre you can start to see why the cost adds up.  This is all without the accessories,
> embroidered gloves, stomacher, shoes etc that you would need to finish it off.  It isn't hard to
> see the cost swiftly mounting, apart from the fact that to get the whole thing ready for next
> season would require alot of people doing an awful lot of sewing!
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dressing up? (WAS: How I got involved)
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 14:28:09 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> My mother knew I liked dressing up in costumes when I was little
> (what Americans call dressing up, not what dressing up means in the
> UK) 

Kayta, what do you mean by that - what I've always known, here in 
Southern England, as "dressing-up" seems to be the same as 
what you mean by it.

Friends of mine, when I was a kid, had a large box of dressing-up 
clothes and we would play dress-up and pretend to be all sorts of 
characters (hmmmm.... that's an old memory.  My favourite outfit 
was this voluminous white muslyin-like dress - probably an early  
1970's knee or calf-length maternity dress on an adult) that 
seemed to go on forever and I would always find a reason to play a 
character that wore that one.....  How's that for a telling Early 
sign....<g.??)


Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Great Britian,
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 14:44:53 +0100 (BST)
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 --- Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote: > 
> >  and the New Zealand men! WHOOHOO! *thinks she has to
> > move to Kiwi land*
> 
> Nicole!  Your liking for men in skirts is showing again!

Uhm... yes I guess it does *G* Thank goodness, teddy, we have established
different tastes in skirts on men. *L*

> Besides, most of the Kiwi's are in England or travelling the world 
> anyway.  I swear that I meet more new-zealanders who are 
> "travelling" to see the world or who have relocated to England than 
> any other nationality!

I don't know, I tend to hit the South Africans, and that is NOT a bad thing!
*swoons* How come they look so good, or are only their export articles such
good-lookers? They are missing skirts though. ;-)

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: 'perfect elizabethan' was Re: [h-cost] Renaissance Faires
	in the U.S.
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 14:45:59 +0100
Status: RO

According to the SK website, the new venue for the Reenactors' Market will be the Warwickshire Exhibition Centre at Radford Semele near Leamington.

>> Every so often there are mumerings of doing a posh event by some of >>the sponsers until we give them a quote for the cost of the costumes.  
>Quote for costumes? Now that's a new one, so you vary the fee according >to whatyou wear? Interesting concept

It's a new one on me too! I don't have anything to do with negotiating fees for our group, but as far as I know we take what we can get regardless of what we intend to wear. Our chief expense is instruments, not costumes.



Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Filkers on h-costume?? (WAS: How I got involved)
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 14:33:32 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> I've done a cotehardie (and found it comfy, if not the easiest
> thing to sew... I even filked the experience...) 

Which aslo leads me to ask....

How many filkers on h-costume?

Don't be shy now.  Raise your hand and admit it.

I'll get hte ball rolling.

Hello, I'm Teddy and I've been attending FilkCons in England for the 
last nine years or so.  I even went as far as travelling to Caneda 
last year to attend a filkcon in Toronato (and go trim shopping with 
Danielle...<G>).  No yet been across to Germany for 
FilkContinental, but have several friends among the German filkers 
and have performed on a couple of filk albums.




Teddy
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 08:06:04 -0600
Status: RO

*Laughing myself* At the moment, all my extra fundage (and my own credit
cards!) is going towards the trip I'm making to your part of the world
at the end of the month.....I'm taking one completely empty suitcase,
and very much expect to come back with it full! Probably mostly with
books for myself (my major habit besides fabric and embroidery flosses).
If I spend money on anything costume-related in the relative future
(other than the above), it'd be on some nice wools.  If I could ever
find any.
Oh, well, time to get ready and go to work....Have a nice day,
everybody!
--Sue, part-time computer geek, full-time blackworker, and wannabe world
traveler ;-)

N Kipar wrote:
> 
>  --- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote: > Holy sh!t, Nicole! Can I
> pretty-please have your clothing budget? <g>
> > --Sue, making do with much cheaper stuff ;-(
> 
> *LOL* sure, if you pay off my credit card for me?
> 
> Nicole - with ONE big and expensive passion: costumes
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 08:07:44 -0600
Status: RO

ROTFLMAO!
Yeah, there is that...how could I have forgotten? *sigh*.....
--sue

Drea Leed wrote:
><snippage> 
> Hm...I have to say that what I really love is the preliminary research,
> the designing of the pattern and fitting of the sloper.  My other favorite
> part of the process is putting the finished garment on and saying "wow! It
> worked perfectly!" (which doesn't happen as often as I like, but is really
> cool when it does.)
> 
> 
> After that, the thing I like best is having an excuse to hold several
> yards of luxurious fabric between my hands for hours on end.  ;>
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 15:23:48 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Anybody fancy a tea-party?  Maybe about half to an hour after closing
> - time enough to close up, but not so late as to interfere with your
> beer-tent enjoyment?

Yes please Jean.

Teddy
(still trying to finish new yellow and green parti-coloured hose and a 
red houpellande for Kirby - and to find time to make something with 
a red "H" on it so other h-costumers will be able to spot it!)

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kirby Hall - History in Action
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 15:37:40 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Nicole,
> 
> At the risk of "inviting myself" (something my mother always said I
> shouldn't do), your camp might be most practical, just because you
> are, I think, the smallest group.  Conquest has a big shelter, but it
> also has 20-30 people milling about and wanting to use it.
> 
> I can bring our little gas stove - and cake?

Tom and I have a *huge* tent (12 ft by 22ft) and haven't begun to 
furnish it properly yet - so there' lotsd of space and just the two of 
us.

We'll have our little stove too and tea and cofffee (instant) supplies 
(though not enough suitable cups, so bring your own) so we could 
host it if you like.



Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothes in 50 states
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 15:43:32 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> >I don't mean to sound prejudice but Black people down here seem to
> >have the most fun with their clothes.
> 
> It's not prejudice - they really do.  And the most fun with hair and
> hats.
>  White people have boring hair and hats.

Same here in England... I used to live near this wonderful little 
"african" clothes shop run by the most wonderful woman who did 
made to measure clothing for really reasonable prices.  Those 
wonderful africal prints and bright colours were her stock in trade 
but she'd make up stuff in your own fabric and she'd copy 
garments you took in or work out patterns for you.  I had her make 
my "Corporate Elf" suit for my Shadow-run (roleplay) character 
from almost fluorescent yellow cotton with dark green satin trim (a 
style remeniscent of something Joan Collins wore in Dynasty, but 
more OTT) and she was delighted to make the tight-fitting skirt four 
inches shorter for me at no extra charge (she's been trying to get 
my cousin to have her skirts shorter too).... I loved that costume.  I 
managed to get dark green satin-tights and some high-heeled court 
shoes which I dyed yellow to match the suit.



Teddy
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 16:09:23 +0100
Status: RO

At 02:28 PM 8/7/2002 +0000, you wrote:

> > My mother knew I liked dressing up in costumes when I was little
> > (what Americans call dressing up, not what dressing up means in the
> > UK)
>
>Kayta, what do you mean by that - what I've always known, here in
>Southern England, as "dressing-up" seems to be the same as
>what you mean by it.

I always took it as meaning putting on my best posh frock for some 
important event.

Lissa

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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 09:25:18 -0700
Status: RO

At 02:33 PM 08/07/2002 +0000, Teddy wrote:

>
>How many filkers on h-costume?
>
Hi, I'm Margo.  As a former Bard of the Mists in the SCA, I found myself
obliged to filk on occasion.  For some peculiar reason I cannot understand,
my two best recieved filks were both about vegetables;  "The Knight Who
Would Not Eat His Vegetables" and "The Zucchini Song", filked to the tune
of "The Wild Rover" and based on the results of the time my mother planted
TWELVE zucchini plants for a family of five.

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 10:17:34 -0700
Status: RO


> Hm...I have to say that what I really love is the preliminary
> research, the designing of the pattern and fitting of the sloper.  My
> other favorite part of the process is putting the finished garment on
> and saying "wow! It worked perfectly!" (which doesn't happen as often
> as I like, but is really cool when it does.)
> 
> Everything in between--hand finishing, buttonholes & lacing holes (oh,
> the humanity!), hem-stitching, fiddling with pleats, basting,
> re-fitting and adjusting, etc. is so-so. But that first fitted sloper
> inspires me, and looking forward to the finished garment is what keeps
> me going. 

While I like the research and designing part, the planning for the 
fabrics, trim etc. and the planning of how I'm going to draft it out, I 
merely tolerate all that goes on until I get to the final hand finishing 
part (which I enjoy doing. Good thing since I had over 200" to hand 
narrow rolled hem last weekend) and then get to see the finished 
product.
 
> After that, the thing I like best is having an excuse to hold several
> yards of luxurious fabric between my hands for hours on end.  ;>
> 
> Drea

Now *this* I can really relate to. It explains why I have so many 
boxes and rolls of fabrics that I have to have 2 rooms to put it all in. 
(However, it does come in handy, like for the dress I finished and 
wore last Saturday: I had over 20 yards of black silk taffeta, all the 
linen I needed for the linings and underpinings as well as 2 yards of 
black silk organza for making the shrug to go over it. As Teddy 
calls it "a posh frock." I just wish I had a website so that when I get 
the pictures back I could show them to you. Teddy, since you are 
on Pegasus, I'll be able to mail you one!)


Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your favourite sewing/needlework?
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 10:19:02 -0700
Status: RO

I think I like the designing best, and then the putting it together to see
if it comes out like it was in my head best.  Having it work on stage
exactly as I had planned Yay!

Making things fit fussy whiney actors... booh.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"Nay then, let the devil wear black,
for I'll have a suit of sables..."
W. Shakespeare


----- Original Message -----
From: "N Kipar" <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2002 3:07 AM
Subject: [h-cost] What's your favourite sewing/needlework?


> I was just wondering (while stitching the last bits on the blasted
redcoat)
> what people like best in making costumes. I actually don't like making the
> costumes themselves, I can't even stand it, that's why I always start so
late.
> I don't even particularly like sewing. *laughs*
> Don't get me wrong, I am not forced or anything, but making things like a
coat,
> or breeches or something, properly fitted outer garments akes me sweat
blood
> and tears, that is no fun.
> I DO like making accessoris very much though. Coifs, hoods, caps, aprons,
and
> even underwear like shirts and shifts, I find the stitching of long
flat-felled
> seams very therapeutic. Small things I like, lovely to carry around and
> peaceful to stitch, big things I don't like.
> What I like best is making accessories.
> What I dislike the most is having to mend/alter/fix big things.
>
> What does everone else like best/worst in making costumes?
>
> Nicole
>
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
> Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: marquis@kipar.org
>
> __________________________________________________
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Subject: Re: 'perfect elizabethan' was Re: [h-cost] Renaissance Faires in the U.S.
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 11:28:23 -0700
Status: RO

> Then there is the stays, made of silk and boned with either
> > real whalebone or
> > reeds.
>
> Real whalebone??? I don't think so dear, and I must admit I would go
bonkers if
> you did and I woud indeed notify the RSPCA. Whalebone (whales) is strictly
> under protection!!! Where the hell would you get it from? I am most
intrigued,
> and no,  am sorry, not in a good way. How could anyone want to use
anything
> from a whale still nowadays? Sorry.... but our whale population is
dwindling
> fast and the thought of using something from a whale and thus probably
just
> indirectly, but nevertheless, encourage their demise makes my blood boil.
> Sorry. *S*
>
What about bone from one of the many dead, beached whales?  That wouldn't
harm the whale population in any way, and the whale certainly wouldn't be
needing it anymore....

Pam Dotson
Everett, WA  USA


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kirby Saturday tea
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 19:56:17 +0100
Status: RO

OK folks, I think we're settled:

Saturday, 6.30pm, Nicole's camp (we'll find you somehow!), bring cake, 
bring coke, bring children as applicable.

Happy camping 'till then,

Jean
-- 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kirby Saturday tea
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 20:30:46 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote: > OK folks, I think
we're settled:
> 
> Saturday, 6.30pm, Nicole's camp (we'll find you somehow!), bring cake, 
> bring coke, bring children as applicable.
> 
> Happy camping 'till then,
> 
> Jean
> -- 

Does anybody have a mobile with them? I could give a ring on the Friday evening
IF we don't meet up in the beertent on the Friday. Don't forget I'll have a
great big red cross on the white bib across my boobs. (ouch, sorry, that lame
and sad joke had to be done)

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hijab (was forehead cloths)
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 20:25:38 +0100
Status: RO

Katie Lewis <katie_lewis@lycos.com> wrote
>--- Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>
>>  I've just recently been investigating religious headcovering,
>>> and having had it pointed out to me, noticing that many women wearing
>>> hijab wear a small cap or tied headscarf underneath, which comes down to
>>> the forehead, and the large headscarf sits further back on the head.  >>
>
>I'm not sure if you are talking about the same styles of hijab that I'm 
>familliar with from what I saw Muslim women wearing in India or not, 
>but afaik it isn't a seperate cap.  Rather the headscarf is draped in 
>such a way as to give the appearance of a seperate cap.
>
>I stink at describing things like this, but basically the scarf is 
>first draped over the head coming down onto the forehead, with the 
>scarf shorter on one side of the head.  Then the longer side is pulled 
>across the chest and over the head (on about the middle of the head) 
>and then tucked in on the side that was initally left longer.
>When a triangular scarf is worn it is often folded on either side of 
>the forehead, which can also give the appearance of a seperate cap.
>
>
>Hope this helps,
>
>Katie

I have seen both these styles, but I read some websites which said women 
do often wear a separate cap, partly to keep the hair in order, 
underneath. The ones I have identified as being this often have a little 
decorative edging on the part tight on the forehead, which doesn't 
appear on the layer further back.

I was impressed today at some women wearing the triangular scarf twice 
round the head, as your first description, and with the free end just 
flipped over the top, hanging down maybe as far as the top of the ear. 
They must have been tourists - the usual Edinburgh wind wouldn't let 
anything stay like that for long!

Jean

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your favourite sewing/needlework?
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 20:51:11 +0100
Status: RO

N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote
>I was just wondering (while stitching the last bits on the blasted redcoat)
>what people like best in making costumes. I actually don't like making the
>costumes themselves, I can't even stand it, that's why I always start so late.
>I don't even particularly like sewing. *laughs*
>Don't get me wrong, I am not forced or anything, but making things like a coat,
>or breeches or something, properly fitted outer garments akes me sweat blood
>and tears, that is no fun.
>I DO like making accessoris very much though. Coifs, hoods, caps, aprons, and
>even underwear like shirts and shifts, I find the stitching of long flat-felled
>seams very therapeutic. Small things I like, lovely to carry around and
>peaceful to stitch, big things I don't like.
>What I like best is making accessories.
>What I dislike the most is having to mend/alter/fix big things.
>
>What does everone else like best/worst in making costumes?
>
>Nicole
>

I HATE cutting out.  It takes me so long to get a costume started, 
because it takes so long to get through that first stage.  Doesn't help 
that I do it on the floor and it makes my knees sore.  And that's why I 
prefer doing early period stuff to modern, because even worse than 
cutting out is marking up patterns for darts and dots and all that. 
Grrrrr.

I like getting all the long seams done, when suddenly it looks like a 
garment and you can pick it all up at once and see what it's going to 
be. And then I like the hemming.  I don't enjoy handstitching seams, 
except on little things like hats - I could do it so much quicker on the 
machine.  But I can sit for hours quietly hemming.

Jean
-- 
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Dumb question about forehead cloths was:RE: [h-cost] Forehead Clothes in the Seventeenth Century
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 20:55:56 +0100
Status: RO

Now this is the second we've seen of this gauzy type, but it doesn't 
seem to match with the embroidered linen examples seen laid out in 
museums. Can we find any linen forehead cloths, worn with the linen 
coif?

Jean


Helen  Partner <mail@helandbel.fsnet.co.uk> wrote
>
>
>Hello All
>
>
>Just a quick link b4 I get over excited
>http://www.lib.cam.ac.uk/Exhibitions/Cromwell/where.htm
>
>Have a look At Oliver Cromwell's mother's portrait.  I've just been watching
>Channel 5's prog on the ECW (seen it b4 on The History Channel)  But, low
>and behold, comes a portrait of Cromwell's mother.  On our tv, it looked
>suspiciously like she was wearing a fc *over* the coif and with the pointy
>end showing!  I could be wrong.  Anyway, if anyone wants to have a look at
>it, a small version is shown at the above link.
>
>Comments, puleeeaaase.
>
>Regards
>
>Helen
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "N Kipar" <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: 05 August 2002 20:45
>Subject: Re: Dumb question about forehead cloths was:RE: [h-cost] Forehead
>Clothes in the Seventeenth Century
>
>
>> --- Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote: >
>> > These are all coming up really small on my browser, but I'm not sure I
>> > can see any of these as separate triangular pieces twinned with coifs -
>> > they just look like headscarves or similar tied very low.  Am I missing
>> > something vital?
>>
>> No you are not missing anything vital, this was exactly the point and
>question,
>> are these even forehead cloths? Also, the triangular piece wouldn't hang
>into
>> the forehead, but the other edge.
>> Oh, and yes, the pix were small, they are details from paintings. :-)
>>
>> Nicole
>>
>> =====
>> Nicole Kipar M.A.
>> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
>> Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
>> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
>> Email: marquis@kipar.org
>>
>> __________________________________________________
>> Do You Yahoo!?
>> Everything you'll ever need on one web page
>> from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
>> http://uk.my.yahoo.com
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>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>_______________________________________________
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-- 
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Subject: Re: Dumb question about forehead cloths was:RE: [h-cost] Forehead Clothes in the Seventeenth Century
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 21:32:06 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote: > Now this is the second
we've seen of this gauzy type, but it doesn't 
> seem to match with the embroidered linen examples seen laid out in 
> museums. Can we find any linen forehead cloths, worn with the linen 
> coif?
> 
> Jean

I haven't found a single one, Jean, not a single one, in 1GB of scanned images.

Nicole - really fascinated by these things by now

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Filkers on h-costume?? (WAS: How I got involved)
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 10:38:06 -0700
Status: RO

At 2:33 PM +0000 8/7/02, Teddy wrote:
>  > I've done a cotehardie (and found it comfy, if not the easiest
>>  thing to sew... I even filked the experience...)
>
>Which aslo leads me to ask....
>
>How many filkers on h-costume?
>
>Don't be shy now.  Raise your hand and admit it.

I suppose I might marginally count in that category ....

(Oh, ok, been filking for a couple decades, past multiple filk 
con-com member, past filk con-chair, couple albums and a songbook, 
occasional guest/toastmistress at filk-cons.)

I tend to do original music, though, rather than the parody material 
that many people understand by the term "filk".

Heather
-- 
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hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 11:19:20 +1200
Status: RO

Oi! Most of the real Kiwi men are down on the farm. There is such a sortage
of women in the rural areas that there was even a documentary about it!

And a competition type thing for women from the cities to go meet them.

Seriously tempted as all I meet are gay men, serial polygamists and
certified stalkers! Not surprising really seeing as I do perform on stage a
lot;)- erm as in we are talking about actors here which are a different
breed altogether...

Men in skirts here??? He'd be a raving "poofter" mate;). Unless of course
he's in the artsy crowd which is very much an underground culture here;)

And Maori, Polynesian and Scottish 'skirts' are mostly worn for cultural
events:)

I doubt there are 4million kiwis out in the world;)

Yes, there are more than a handful of people in a land of sheep and grass;)
We are even getting infill housing, rows and rows of apartments plunked down
in the middle of nowhere.. in a country where the 1/4 acre section was the
Kiwi Dream.. it's a little disturbing.

michaela
living in "the big smoke" which is not quite as apt as it might be.
Christchrch has a terrible smog problem in winter with all the fires- in't
on the plains and all the smoke stays over the city.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Filkers on h-costume?? (WAS: How I got involved)
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 16:19:53 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

so,um,  what is filking?


> 
> At 2:33 PM +0000 8/7/02, Teddy wrote:
> >  > I've done a cotehardie (and found it comfy, if not the easiest
> >>  thing to sew... I even filked the experience...)
> >
> >Which aslo leads me to ask....
> >
> >How many filkers on h-costume?
> >
> >Don't be shy now.  Raise your hand and admit it.
> 
> I suppose I might marginally count in that category ....
> 
> (Oh, ok, been filking for a couple decades, past multiple filk 
> con-com member, past filk con-chair, couple albums and a songbook, 
> occasional guest/toastmistress at filk-cons.)
> 
> I tend to do original music, though, rather than the parody material 
> that many people understand by the term "filk".
> 
> Heather
> -- 
> *****
> Heather Rose Jones
> hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
> *****
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Filkers on h-costume
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 19:36:01 -0400
Status: RO

--=====================_160872657==_.ALT
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At 12:17 PM 8/7/02 -0600, you wrote:
>Which aslo leads me to ask....
>
>How many filkers on h-costume?
>
>Don't be shy now.  Raise your hand and admit it.

*shyly raising hand*  Hi, I'm Vik, and I've been filking for years.  You=20
can't pay enough to sing what I write (Cuz my voice could turn you off=20
music forever... yep *sigh* that bad).  I've never done it with any sort of=
=20
group (ok, friends of mine and I got really happy on mead one night and=20
wrote some stuff) just on my own, and never with any intentions of letting=
=20
anyone read it.  However, the best laid plans, don't you know....  long=20
story short, none of mine's ever been recorded, though those rascally=20
sisters of mine keep poking me to write it, so who knows.. *shrug*

Vik, Authoress of "Green Sleeve" and "One Of Those Knights"


=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=
=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=
=B0`=B0=BA=A4
Lady Victoria's Castle Closet:
Custom Clothing and Fine Renaissance Designs
http://www.castlecloset.cc
Gallery: http://bluedragyn.net/~lvcc/castle-creations
15% discount to List Members,

--=====================_160872657==_.ALT
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<html>
At 12:17 PM 8/7/02 -0600, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=3Dcite class=3Dcite cite>Which aslo leads me to=20
ask....<br>
<br>
How many filkers on h-costume?<br>
<br>
Don't be shy now.&nbsp; Raise your hand and admit it.</blockquote><br>
*shyly raising hand*&nbsp; Hi, I'm Vik, and I've been filking for
years.&nbsp; You can't pay enough to sing what I write (Cuz my voice
could turn you off music forever... yep *sigh* that bad).&nbsp; I've
never done it with any sort of group (ok, friends of mine and I got
really happy on mead one night and wrote some stuff) just on my own, and
never with any intentions of letting anyone read it.&nbsp; However, the
best laid plans, don't you know....&nbsp; long story short, none of
mine's ever been recorded, though those rascally sisters of mine keep
poking me to write it, so who knows.. *shrug*<br>
<br>
Vik, Authoress of &quot;Green Sleeve&quot; and &quot;One Of Those
Knights&quot; <br>
<br>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
<div align=3D"center">
=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=
=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8=A4=BA=B0`=B0=BA=A4=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=
=B0`=B0=BA=A4<br>
<font face=3D"Crusades" size=3D6 color=3D"#800080">Lady Victoria's Castle
Closet:</font> <br>
<font face=3D"Blackadder ITC" size=3D5>Custom Clothing and Fine Renaissance
Designs <br>
</font><a href=3D"http://www.castlecloset.cc/"=
 eudora=3D"autourl">http://www.castlecloset.cc</a><br>
<font face=3D"Book Antiqua, Bookman" size=3D4><b>Gallery</b></font>:
<a href=3D"http://bluedragyn.net/~lvcc/castle-creations"=
 eudora=3D"autourl">http://bluedragyn.net/~lvcc/castle-creations</a><br>
<font color=3D"#800080"><b>15% discount to List Members,<br>
</font></b></div>
</html>

--=====================_160872657==_.ALT--

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Aug  7 20:02:04 2002
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From: "Kendra Van Cleave" <kendrav@attbi.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Cunnington books
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 16:36:04 -0700
Status: RO

Hi all,

I've been perusing used books online lately, and wondering about all of the
various Cunnington books.  I've got _English Women's Clothing in the 19th
Century_ and _History of Underclothes_.  I'm wondering what you all think of
the various other books out by the Cunningtons -- eg _Handbook of Costume in
the [insert century_, etc.  Does anyone have any recommendations for which
of these books are useful and which aren't?  Are there any that I just HAVE
to have but don't know about it?  :)

I'm primarily interested in the 19th c. (US & Western Europe), but also in
18th c.

Thanks!

- Kendra


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] modern ethnic garments
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 16:21:02 -0700
Status: RO


> >>I think we often overestimate how westernised other cultures are, and fail
> >>to realise they are taking bits from the west and assimilating them into
> >>their own tradition, not the other way round.
>
> >Their own cultural dress is evolving in spite of any Westernization.  They
> >can tell me what year, or what decade, one of their garments is, or at
> >least what generation still wears them.
>
>A Sikh colleague of mine and her husband ran a business some years ago 
>importing modern fashions of Punjabi costume, which you could not then buy 
>here in Derby, UK - i.e. the traditional tunic and trousers, but in 
>unusual fabrics and cuts. She wears Western dress at work, but I saw her 
>in some of their stock at social events.

The Silicon Valley is good for modern Punjabi two-piece suits, as there's a 
market for them, both from blue-eyed folks like us and from temporary 
workers from India.  Aparently Vancouver, BC, is also good.


Kayta

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your favourite sewing/needlework?
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 16:25:02 -0700
Status: RO


>I was just wondering (while stitching the last bits on the blasted redcoat)
>what people like best in making costumes.

>What I like best is making accessories.
>What I dislike the most is having to mend/alter/fix big things.
>
>What does everone else like best/worst in making costumes?

I like the research/design stage beforehand, and the 
handwork/finishing/decorating stage afterwards, but the worst part is the 
pattern-making stage in between.  Actually cutting and sewing aren't so 
bad.  Making accessories is what I do to procrastinate.

Kayta

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dressing up? (WAS: How I got involved)
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 16:36:41 -0700
Status: RO


> > My mother knew I liked dressing up in costumes when I was little
> > (what Americans call dressing up, not what dressing up means in the
> > UK)
>
>Kayta, what do you mean by that - what I've always known, here in
>Southern England, as "dressing-up" seems to be the same as
>what you mean by it.

I have a book called 'Dressing Up' (ISBN 0-671-25091-4) which is all about 
the history of transvestitism and drag.  When I was little I too had a 
dress-up box, full of stuff to wear, and that, of course, is what I 
meant.  I use the phrase 'getting dressed up' to mean putting on the best 
dress, etc.

>My favourite outfit
>was this voluminous white muslyin-like dress - probably an early
>1970's knee or calf-length maternity dress on an adult) that
>seemed to go on forever and I would always find a reason to play a
>character that wore that one.....  How's that for a telling Early
>sign....<g.??)

And one of my daughters' favourite colour was always black, even from a 
very young age, and she still likes functional clothes and plain dresses 
(when she has to wear a dress) to the kind of feminine things other girls 
like (which drives the other daughter, who went thru a ruffly-pink-dress 
phase, crazy).

Kayta

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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 17:48:04 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO


Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> Katie Lewis <katie_lewis@lycos.com> wrote
> 
> >I stink at describing things like this, but basically the scarf is 
> >first draped over the head coming down onto the forehead, with the 
> >scarf shorter on one side of the head.  Then the longer side is pulled 
> >across the chest and over the head (on about the middle of the head) 
> >and then tucked in on the side that was initally left longer.
> >When a triangular scarf is worn it is often folded on either side of 
> >the forehead, which can also give the appearance of a seperate cap.
>
> I have seen both these styles, but I read some websites which said women 
> do often wear a separate cap, partly to keep the hair in order, 
> underneath. The ones I have identified as being this often have a little 
> decorative edging on the part tight on the forehead, which doesn't 
> appear on the layer further back.

In fact, I own a couple of those types of head coverings.  The name I've
been told is an "al-amira" hijab.  Often the overscarf is _also_ made of
stretchy fabric and is shaped sort of like a hood.  I've got a couple with
fancy lace around the edges to match the skullcaps.  They're related to the
much longer prayer outfit coverings called khirmar.

The first few hijab on this page are amira-type headcoverings:
http://www.almuhajabat.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=Almuhajabat&Category_Code=h

Similarly, the big shapeless (usually black) robes are chaador, but most
women in Saudi Arabia and Turkey wear jilbab (a loose overjacket) instead.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Filkers on h-costume?? (WAS: How I got involved)
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 17:56:31 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO


I'm a musician, not a filker.  Though I've written some parodies, that's
_also_ a firm part of irish and english musical traditions.  One of the 
other musicians I know who occasionally works fan conventions pointed out
that parody can stand on its own, but filk (as it's done here) is often 
an inside joke.  I find myself standing in the same tradition with Mark
Graham from Seattle, who's written such gems as "Their Brains Were Small
and They Died," "Last Words (Can I Have All Your Stuff When You Die),"
and "Life is Hard, But Life is Hardest When You're Dumb."  He takes from
particular musical genres, but you don't have to know anything about fan
politics, convention histories, computer geek jokes, or any particular
songs to get his (really funny) stuff.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cunnington books
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 18:14:29 -0700
Status: RO


>I've been perusing used books online lately, and wondering about all of the
>various Cunnington books.  I've got _English Women's Clothing in the 19th
>Century_ and _History of Underclothes_.  I'm wondering what you all think of
>the various other books out by the Cunningtons -- eg _Handbook of Costume in
>the [insert century_, etc.  Does anyone have any recommendations for which
>of these books are useful and which aren't?  Are there any that I just HAVE
>to have but don't know about it?  :)

I have the Dover reprint of the 19th century one, and it's pretty good.  I 
got it for the contemporary examples, of which there are many, both of 
garments and of fashion plates.  There seems to be a Cunnington style to 
the re-drawings.  There's one garment in it that I have seen elsewhere, in 
a Janet Arnold book, and by this I judge that the re-drawings are probably 
OK, tho I wouldn't trust their proportions to be exact.  They seem to be 
better than Ruth Turner Wilcox re-drawings.

Kayta

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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 18:50:20 -0700
Status: RO

From: Heather Meadows <alice@wonderland.com>
> so,um,  what is filking?

It is taking a song (usually a well known tune) and putting other 
words to it, usually in a fannish sense.

However, it is an old tradition. For example, the Christmas Carol 
"What Child is This" is a "filk" on "Greensleeves." They were also 
called "contrafract."


Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 12:10:55 +1000
Status: RO

Kat,

Do you know the history behind the word "contafract"? It would lend more
historicity to the silly songs we sing as Routiers (following the popular
17th century traditions, but not exclusively to 17th century tunes)

Glenda.
No - I've never made up silly songs about anything... and I've never taught
my children to either ;-)


----- Original Message -----
> However, it is an old tradition. For example, the Christmas Carol
> "What Child is This" is a "filk" on "Greensleeves." They were also
> called "contrafract."


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Aug  7 22:59:56 2002
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 19:26:07 -0700
Status: RO

At 6:50 PM -0700 8/7/02, kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:
>From: Heather Meadows <alice@wonderland.com>
>>  so,um,  what is filking?
>
>It is taking a song (usually a well known tune) and putting other
>words to it, usually in a fannish sense.
>
>However, it is an old tradition. For example, the Christmas Carol
>"What Child is This" is a "filk" on "Greensleeves." They were also
>called "contrafract."

It's a bit more complicated than that -- _one_ meaning of "filk" is " 
a song parody", another is "songs created and/or performed in the 
context of science-fiction fandom".  As I noted before, while most 
people (especially those not directly involved in filk music) tend to 
think only in terms of song parodies, there is a _lot_ of original 
music being produced by the same community under the same name.  The 
stuff I perform at sf conventions is, for the most part, the same as 
what I'd perform at folk clubs (if I did that more often than once a 
decade or so) without any need for special explanations.  In 
contrast, a certain amount of filk music _is_ extremely 
self-referential -- not only in being parodies, but in focusing on 
decades-old running gags and on in-jokes that form a sort of informal 
community initiation.  (When you get all the jokes, you know you're a 
part of the community.)

But the overlap between sf fandom and many historical hobbyist 
communities means that the term as used for a in-joke parody has 
spread quite a bit.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 14:53:22 +1200
Status: RO

I mentioned some time ago a facinating book about consumption/TB I finally
found it:
Fevered Lives: Tuberculosis in American Culture Since 1870
http://www.hup.harvard.edu/catalog/OTTFEV.html
http://www.hup.harvard.edu/reviews/OTTFEV_R.html

And I'll paste a little as I mentioned that consumption was seen as a bit of
a romantic disease:
 "Ott traces the shift from the pre-industrial world of 1870, in which
consumption was conceived of primarily as a middle-class malaise that
conferred virtue, heightened spirituality, and gentility on the sufferer, to
the post-industrial world of today,..."

While pre industrial may be a bit of a misnomer.. anyway, thought it might
be of interest especially to those groups that reenact the 19thC:)

michaela



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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 22:55:24 -0600
Status: RO

Hi.  I'm Sue, known as Maire in the SCA, and I'm a filker, too....
My favorite songs are "Welsh History 101 (101B?)," "Sweet Home
Artemisia" (a great SCA-regional filk on "Sweet Home Alabama"),
"Overflowing Catbox Blues," and any song by Tom Lehrer (I think that's
the name....wrote the song about Poisoning Pigeons in the Park?)
I'm starting to forget most of these, because it's been years since I've
actually filked (the folks responsible for keeping it going have moved
out of the area), but I enjoy the original music and the parodies,
both....
--Sue, who's really, really going to have to haul out the Norse version
of "Green Eggs and Ham" for a bardic circle one of these nights, or
maybe the SCA-Laurels version of "Alice's Restaurant."

Teddy wrote:
> 

> How many filkers on h-costume?
> 
> Don't be shy now.  Raise your hand and admit it.
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 22:03:19 -0700
Status: RO

 
> Do you know the history behind the word "contafract"? It would lend
> more historicity to the silly songs we sing as Routiers (following the
> popular 17th century traditions, but not exclusively to 17th century
> tunes)
> 
> Glenda.
> No - I've never made up silly songs about anything... and I've never
> taught my children to either ;-)

Contrafract/contrafractum/contrafacta is a term from medieval 
times. _Companion to Medieval & Renaissance Music" edited by 
Tess Knighton and David Fallows (ISBN0-520-21081-6) mentions it 
in conjunction with monophonic music of the Troubadour period. 
(Page 104)

The definition they give in the glossary (page 385) is:
term used to describe the substitution of one test for another in a 
piece of music that otheriwise remains essentially the same. In 
medieval song it usually refers to the addition of new words to an 
existing melody, while in the sixteenth century it is used mainly to 
indicate the substitution of a sacred for a secular text.

In _A History of Western Music_ by Donald Jay Grout, ISBN 0-393-
09416-2, he discusses it in relationship to parody (page 196.)

I hope this is helpful. (There are other books, but it's bedtime and I 
really don't want to go through any more of them.)


Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>
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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 01:00:20 -0400
Status: RO

Um, Sue? Wool? In England? I don't think that should be a problem... 
 Except, of course, to limit it to one suitcase full!

Anne

Sue Clemenger wrote:

>*Laughing myself* At the moment, all my extra fundage (and my own credit
>cards!) is going towards the trip I'm making to your part of the world
>at the end of the month.....I'm taking one completely empty suitcase,
>and very much expect to come back with it full! Probably mostly with
>books for myself (my major habit besides fabric and embroidery flosses).
>If I spend money on anything costume-related in the relative future
>(other than the above), it'd be on some nice wools.  If I could ever
>find any.
>Oh, well, time to get ready and go to work....Have a nice day,
>everybody!
>--Sue, part-time computer geek, full-time blackworker, and wannabe world
>traveler ;-)
>
>N Kipar wrote:
>
>> --- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote: > Holy sh!t, Nicole! Can I
>>pretty-please have your clothing budget? <g>
>>
>>>--Sue, making do with much cheaper stuff ;-(
>>>
>>*LOL* sure, if you pay off my credit card for me?
>>
>>Nicole - with ONE big and expensive passion: costumes
>>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 23:23:51 -0600
Status: RO

Seriously? Where? We'll be in (lemme think....) London, Ipswich, York,
Shrewsbury, and Bath--mostly in London and Bath.  Are there specific
stores or something that one can get to? We'll have a "native guide" in
Bath (staying with a friend of my travelling companion).....
--Sue, who quite believes in mailing things if she has to <g>

A F Murphy wrote:
> 
> Um, Sue? Wool? In England? I don't think that should be a problem...
>  Except, of course, to limit it to one suitcase full!
> 
> Anne
> 
> Sue Clemenger wrote:
> 
> >*Laughing myself* At the moment, all my extra fundage (and my own credit
> >cards!) is going towards the trip I'm making to your part of the world
> >at the end of the month.....I'm taking one completely empty suitcase,
> >and very much expect to come back with it full! Probably mostly with
> >books for myself (my major habit besides fabric and embroidery flosses).
> >If I spend money on anything costume-related in the relative future
> >(other than the above), it'd be on some nice wools.  If I could ever
> >find any.
> >Oh, well, time to get ready and go to work....Have a nice day,
> >everybody!
> >--Sue, part-time computer geek, full-time blackworker, and wannabe world
> >traveler ;-)
> >
> >N Kipar wrote:
> >
> >> --- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote: > Holy sh!t, Nicole! Can I
> >>pretty-please have your clothing budget? <g>
> >>
> >>>--Sue, making do with much cheaper stuff ;-(
> >>>
> >>*LOL* sure, if you pay off my credit card for me?
> >>
> >>Nicole - with ONE big and expensive passion: costumes
> >>
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 23:19:45 -0600
Status: RO

Problem is, poachers would probably love to be able to use something
like that as an excuse....and the potential buyers/importers wouldn't
have any reasonable way of verifying that it was -uh- "gleaned."  It may
also be a product specific to certain types of whales, although I don't
know that for sure, being a computer geek and liberal arts graduate, and
not a marine biologist! <g>
--Sue

Pam wrote:
> 

> What about bone from one of the many dead, beached whales?  That wouldn't
> harm the whale population in any way, and the whale certainly wouldn't be
> needing it anymore....
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Subject: Re: 'perfect elizabethan' was Re: [h-cost] Renaissance Faires in the  U.S.
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 17:54:39 +1200
Status: RO

> Problem is, poachers would probably love to be able to use something
> like that as an excuse....and the potential buyers/importers wouldn't
> have any reasonable way of verifying that it was -uh- "gleaned."  It may
> also be a product specific to certain types of whales, although I don't
> know that for sure, being a computer geek and liberal arts graduate, and
> not a marine biologist! <g>

You are right, and most whales that beach tend to be toothed. I've not seen
any stranding that was of a baleen whale- though I don't doubt it happens..
it's just that population wise and their habitats don't bring many close to
shore:). Not to mention their size. Grey whales possibly would...
http://www.seaworld.org/AnimalBytes/whalesab.html
http://nmml.afsc.noaa.gov/education/cetaceans/baleen1.htm

Should mention here it's not actually bone but the baleen used in corsetry.

michaela


> > What about bone from one of the many dead, beached whales?  That
wouldn't
> > harm the whale population in any way, and the whale certainly wouldn't
be
> > needing it anymore....
> _______________________________________________
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hijab (was forehead cloths)
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 08:34:06 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Lee Thompson-Herbert <lee@retro.com> wrote: > 

http://www.almuhajabat.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/amirachild.jpg

Oh my, that looks just like many of the headcoverings in the Dutcj paintings,
at least those that show the bit across the forehead. (not the sewn
toegther-under the chin thingy of course)
Now they say it is 2 piece, an underscarf with matching lace border and lace
bordered pullover hijab. I might have to buy one to figure outhow it's done *L*

Nicole - certainly not going to wear it!

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your favourite sewing/needlework?
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 09:56:04 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote: > 

> I like the research/design stage beforehand, and the 
> handwork/finishing/decorating stage afterwards, but the worst part is the 
> pattern-making stage in between. 

Pattern making? what's that, I am USELESS at it, and that's a real pain. I just
can't think 3 dimensional and it is terrible, i don't get it right ever. I have
to employ a pattern maker or ask ben to try and do it. *sigh* 

 Actually cutting and sewing aren't so 
> bad.  

I don't mind the cutting too much though I have to do it at work, no space at
home. I just don't like the sewing.

I wish though I had space at home.

Nicole, who finally kinda finished the red coat! now the next thing is to add
even more silver lace, two rows round the armholesand to stitch down the lace
bits round the buttonholes. and then... it shall be done... but not before
Kirby!


=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Great Britian,
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 10:00:09 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- michaela <thebruce@ihug.co.nz> wrote: > Oi! Most of the real Kiwi men are
down on the farm. There is such a sortage
> of women in the rural areas that there was even a documentary about it!
> 
> And a competition type thing for women from the cities to go meet them.

Uhm... nah.... they may be yummy, but on a farm????  don't think I would have
use for costumes on a farm. Uhm, nah, thanks. *G*

> And Maori, Polynesian and Scottish 'skirts' are mostly worn for cultural
> events:)

Oh I know, I like cultural events, how I like them. hehe.

> Yes, there are more than a handful of people in a land of sheep and grass;)
> We are even getting infill housing, rows and rows of apartments plunked down
> in the middle of nowhere.. in a country where the 1/4 acre section was the
> Kiwi Dream.. it's a little disturbing.

shock horror, dear! *grins* My next door neighbour shares a wall with me and
that's normal! I hear them coughing at night and it never ever gets dark here
because of heavy light pollution. yikes! I hate the South East....

> michaela
> living in "the big smoke" which is not quite as apt as it might be.
> Christchrch has a terrible smog problem in winter with all the fires- in't
> on the plains and all the smoke stays over the city.

Oh hat sounds just like Galway in Ireland, it was so stinky in winter!

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Great Britian,
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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 10:02:06 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

  
> > Besides, most of the Kiwi's are in England or travelling the world
> > anyway.  I swear that I meet more new-zealanders who are
> > "travelling" to see the world or who have relocated to England than
> > any other nationality!
> 
> I don't know, I tend to hit the South Africans, 

You're right - there are a lot of them.  I still encounter more kiwi's 
though

> and that is NOT a bad thing! *swoons* How come they look so good,
> or are only their export articles such good-lookers? They are
> missing skirts though. ;-) 

Perhaps they have export inspections and only the prime samples 
are let leave?...<g>



Teddy
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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 10:09:38 +0000 (GMT)
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> What does everone else like best/worst in making costumes?

 NOT the hand sewing, that's for sure. Not cutting out the damned 
garments!

I like;

Long seams on the sewing machine with loud music playing,

Planning and designing what I can do with 'new' lengths of fabric,

Fondling the fabric;

The look on someone's face when they put on a costume and see 
how good they look in it.

Wearing the finished costume.



Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your favourite sewing/needlework?
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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 10:16:48 +0000 (GMT)
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> I HATE cutting out.  It takes me so long to get a costume started,
> because it takes so long to get through that first stage.  Doesn't
> help that I do it on the floor and it makes my knees sore.  

I'm with you there Jean, but have solved the sore-knee problem 
with skateboard kneepads (alternatively, those strap on ones they 
sell for gardeners who kneel a lot to weed and plant beds)


Teddy
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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 10:13:26 +0000 (GMT)
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> OK folks, I think we're settled:
> 
> Saturday, 6.30pm, Nicole's camp (we'll find you somehow!), bring cake,
> bring coke, bring children as applicable.

<looking at weather outside>

Bring storm-proof clothing!
 
> Happy camping 'till then,

Yay!  See you then.


Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your favourite sewing/needlework?
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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 10:11:38 +0000 (GMT)
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> (However, it does come in handy, like for the dress I finished and
> wore last Saturday: I had over 20 yards of black silk taffeta, all
> the linen I needed for the linings and underpinings as well as 2
> yards of black silk organza for making the shrug to go over it. As
> Teddy calls it "a posh frock." I just wish I had a website so that
> when I get the pictures back I could show them to you. Teddy, since
> you are on Pegasus, I'll be able to mail you one!) 

Yayyyy!

How did the reunion go?

Teddy
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 My fave is definitely (hand) embroidery.  It's what I learned to do first, (my Nana started me off with cross stitch and a tapestry needle when I was about 3 or so).
Costuming is work - embroidery is hobby!  And having just got the beautiful book on silk shading, crewelwork, blackwork, and goldwork, from the Royal School of Needlework, I can see a very busy winter ahead!
Debbie.




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<P>&nbsp;My fave is definitely (hand) embroidery.&nbsp; It's what I learned to do first, (my Nana started me off with cross stitch and a tapestry needle when I was about 3 or so).
<P>Costuming is work - embroidery is hobby!&nbsp; And having just got the beautiful book on silk shading, crewelwork, blackwork, and goldwork, from the Royal School of Needlework, I can see a very busy winter ahead!
<P>Debbie.</P><p><p><br><hr size=1><a href="http://uk.yahoo.com/mail/tagline_xtra/?http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html"><b><font face="Arial" size="2">Get a bigger mailbox -- choose a size that fits your needs.</font></b></a><br><br><a href="http://uk.yahoo.com/mail/tagline_xtra/?http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html"><font face="Arial" size="2">http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html</font></a>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Filkers on h-costume??
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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 10:19:48 +0000 (GMT)
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> I tend to do original music, though, rather than the parody material
> that many people understand by the term "filk".

I think, Heather, that "filk" has just evolved into a wider (more 
original music) thing than when it started.  The two albums I was 
involved with were both mostly original stuff.


Teddy
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Thread-Topic: [h-cost] What's your favourite sewing/needlework?
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> I'm with you there Jean, but have solved the sore-knee problem=20
> with skateboard kneepads

I initially read this without seeing "kneepads", and had a wonderful
image of Teddy whizzing up and down on a skateboard, shears in hand,
whipping along a piece of fabric and effortlessly snipping pieces out!!

When I cut out the only piece of floor I have large enough is the lounge
- I need to push the furniture back, remove the rugs, and vacuum (I have
two long-haired dogs) - this tends to be my main stumbling block.

I got some really nice linen at Whaley's yesterday - a cotton/linen
twill in beige and white, and a blue/white all linen twill. They also
had plain linen in various "natural looking colours". These were all in
the specials section, at =A33.50 per 60" wide metre!! (+ VAT) of course.
It's worth keeping an eye on the specials section. www.whaleys.co.uk

Freyalyn=20

_______________________________________________________________
Sign up for FREE iVillage newsletters <http://s.ivillage.com/rd/16705> .
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has the scoop on what matters most to you.=20



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> I'm with you there Jean, but have solved the sore-knee problem <br>
> with skateboard kneepads<br>
<br>
I initially read this without seeing "kneepads", and had a wonderful image of Teddy whizzing up and down on a skateboard, shears in hand, whipping along a piece of fabric and effortlessly snipping pieces out!!<br>
<br>
When I cut out the only piece of floor I have large enough is the lounge - I need to push the furniture back, remove the rugs, and vacuum (I have two long-haired dogs) - this tends to be my main stumbling block.<br>
<br>
I got some really nice linen at Whaley's yesterday - a cotton/linen twill in beige and white, and a blue/white all linen twill.  They also had plain linen in various "natural looking colours".  These were all in the specials section, at £3.50 per 60" wide metre!!  (+ VAT) of course.  It's worth keeping an eye on the specials section. www.whaleys.co.uk<br>
<br>
Freyalyn
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> I'm with you there Jean, but have solved the sore-knee problem > with
skateboard kneepads I initially read this without seeing "kneepads", and
had a wonderful image of Teddy whizzing up and down on a skateboard,
shears in hand, whipping along a piece of fabric and effortlessly
snipping pieces out!! When I cut out the only piece of floor I have
large enough is the lounge - I need to push the furniture back, remove
the rugs, and vacuum (I have two long-haired dogs) - this tends to be my
main stumbling block. I got some really nice linen at Whaley's yesterday
- a cotton/linen twill in beige and white, and a blue/white all linen
twill. They also had plain linen in various "natural looking colours".
These were all in the specials section, at =A33.50 per 60" wide metre!! =
(+
VAT) of course. It's worth keeping an eye on the specials section.
www.whaleys.co.uk Freyalyn

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<HTML>=0A=
<BODY>=0A=
 <br>=0A=
> I'm with you there Jean, but have solved the sore-knee problem <br>=0A=
> with skateboard kneepads<br>=0A=
<br>=0A=
I initially read this without seeing "kneepads", and had a wonderful =
image of Teddy whizzing up and down on a skateboard, shears in hand, =
whipping along a piece of fabric and effortlessly snipping pieces =
out!!<br>=0A=
<br>=0A=
When I cut out the only piece of floor I have large enough is the lounge =
- I need to push the furniture back, remove the rugs, and vacuum (I have =
two long-haired dogs) - this tends to be my main stumbling block.<br>=0A=
<br>=0A=
I got some really nice linen at Whaley's yesterday - a cotton/linen =
twill in beige and white, and a blue/white all linen twill.  They also =
had plain linen in various "natural looking colours".  These were all in =
the specials section, at =A33.50 per 60" wide metre!!  (+ VAT) of =
course.  It's worth keeping an eye on the specials section. =
www.whaleys.co.uk<br>=0A=
<br>=0A=
Freyalyn=0A=
</BODY></HTML>=0A=
<BR><font face=3D"Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size=3D"2" =
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] O.T - Filkers on h-costume??
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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 11:01:23 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


 
> so,um,  what is filking?

It's the music side of science fiction fandom... but that doesn't 
really begin to cover it.... The word filk is in itself a "filk" of the word 
"folk"

A lot filksongs are rewritings of well known (popular/ folk etc.) 
songs and tell the story of a character, book, SF film or show in 
song - and somewhere along the line "Scinece Fiction Folk 
session" got misspelled as "Filk session" and the name stuck. 

Since then Filk has evolved to include all sorts of other elements, 
like non-sF and fantasy subjects and lots of original songs and 
music as well as the parody and rewriting of already well known 
songs.

And someone else will no-doubt explain it a lot better than me.



Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re:Re: [h-cost] Filkers on h-costume??
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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 11:07:35 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

> (Cuz my voice could turn you off=20 music forever... yep *sigh*
> that bad 

I never let that stop me.  I stick to comedy numbers (that need to be 
*performed* more than sung) and "character" songs where the 
quality of the singing isn't really a requirement (plus background 
noises and sound effects - the Enquirer's Song with me providing 
sound effects of poor torture victims in the bckground using voice, 
a penny and a baby bouncer was quite good fun...<G>

And you'd be surprized how much even the worst of voices can 
improve with practice when given the incentive of *foolishly* 
agreeing to record a duet with someone who *can* sing when the 
author of the song catches you by surprize and asks you to do it... 

No one recognized my voice on that one <g>

(A competent tech crew doing the recording and mixing helps too)


Teddy
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 14:03:42 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

Just to warn you that I promise (threaten?) to take piccies of as many
H-Costume members I can this weekend at Kirby and cetainly at the tea party
prays that it doesn't rain too hard*
The weather forecast for Kirby is atrocious...

Nicole - who wants to re-enact WWII just for the sturdy clothes and rain gear!
I HAD IT!

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 08:41:06 -0500
Status: RO

I've never filked....never.....not once....I've never written any filk
songs, or sung them in public.......there are no published songs with my
name attached to them....I deny it completely....It wasn't me, I wasn't
there.....it was dark, I couldn't see....the dog ate my homework......No,
really!!



Karen

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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 07:52:07 -0600
Status: RO

Oh, awesome! I'm several thousand miles safe from having *mine* taken,
but several thousand miles frustrated at not being able to go....it
sounds like so much fun! Even without a chance to meet some of
you--gotta swear, we're the most eclectic bunch! <g>
--Sue, in unseasonably drippy, cool Montana

N Kipar wrote:
> 
> Just to warn you that I promise (threaten?) to take piccies of as many
> H-Costume members I can this weekend at Kirby and cetainly at the tea party
> prays that it doesn't rain too hard*
> The weather forecast for Kirby is atrocious...
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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 08:49:29 -0500
Status: RO

I'm another who likes the research/design stage, especially the shopping for fabrics :).  I procrastinate a lot about cutting out and sewing but really like the handwork/finishing part.  Planning and making the accessories is another favorite part but I think part of that is because these the right accessories *make* the outfit.

One thing I hate is fitting something on myself.  I'll do it on others but hate to do it on myself.  

Catherine







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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 08:04:04 -0600
Status: RO

I gotta admit I don't exactly live in an ethnically diverse place, so I
don't see that much of this in clothing.  Well, outside of one of our
local SCA members (who's *completely* clueless as far as taste in
clothing goes) who's managed to combine a piece of local Hmong
needlework with a bad recreation a viking apron....*shudders*....
I sure do see similar influences in music, though, and in food.
Combinations can be as shuddersome as taco pizza (blech!) or as
wonderful as some of the fusion music I listen to--odd combinations of
Irish, Scots, or Breton instruments, with diggeridoos, and African or
Caribbean drumming....
I like to think of it as being blessed by the riches of the whole world,
rather than my own little corner of it.
--sue

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> 
> I used to be of the opinion that, since the advent of the universal
> Westernization of world clothing, any genuine ethnic garment that is still
> being worn is historical.  But garments like sarees and Palestinian dresses
> are instances of non-Western historical styles which are still evolving -
> still being designed, made, and worn.
> 
> Sarees are now available in polyester, with modern designs printed on them
> (in Japan).  Palestinian dresses are sometimes made with Palestinian
> nationalistic designs cross-stitched on them.  The cross-stitch designs on
> these garments over the years, whether traditional or from Western pattern
> books, has evolved in ways even a dilettante Palestinian cross-stitch fan
> like myself can notice.
> 
> I notice the same modernization of style in otherwise fossilized garments
> like festival and folk dance costumes (European or Asian), American square
> dance dresses, and Ren. Faire garments (picture old-time Faire folk, still
> wearing 'Hippie-Renaissance' bodices from the 60s, with lots of floral
> braid trim).
> 
> Does anyone have opinions on this?
> 
> Kayta
> 
>     //// \\\
>    ////-@@\\\
>   ((((   7 )))
>    (((  <> ))))
>       )   ((((((
> /----\   /---\))
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 20:16:34 +0000
Status: RO

By the time you hit 17th century music, you may be doing what were
popularly called "broadsides," which were an English genre of new words
to old tunes (aka stuff you see with "to the tune of...."). Ever seen
Samuel Pepys' collection? It's amazing.

The practice itself is quite old. It reliably dates back to the Crusade
era, when some sacred tunes were swiped by troubadours and their ilk and
the sacred texts replaced by secular ones. The practice just kept going
and going and going. My Latin is dreadful, but from what I have inferred
from my dictionary (perhaps incorrectly) is that the word 'contrafact'
means something along the lines of 'making a new shape.' If someone has a
true definition, I'ld love to get it.

Thank you for the brief OT: I now return you to your regularly programmed
costume discussion. ;)

					Arlys (music Laurel type, An Tir)

On Thu, 8 Aug 2002 12:10:55 +1000 "Glenda Robinson"
<glendar@compassnet.com.au> writes:
> Kat,
> 
> Do you know the history behind the word "contafract"? It would lend 
> more
> historicity to the silly songs we sing as Routiers (following the 
> popular
> 17th century traditions, but not exclusively to 17th century tunes)
> 
> Glenda.
> No - I've never made up silly songs about anything... and I've never 
> taught
> my children to either ;-)

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your favourite sewing/needlework?
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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 15:40:21 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

> And having just got the beautiful book on silk shading, crewelwork,
> blackwork, and goldwork, from the Royal School of Needlework, I can
> see a very busy winter ahead!

Are you doing their goldwork course this autumn? 




Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your favourite sewing/needlework?
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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 15:44:04 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> I initially read this without seeing "kneepads", and had a wonderful
> image of Teddy whizzing up and down on a skateboard, shears in hand,
> whipping along a piece of fabric and effortlessly snipping pieces
> out!!

Wheeee!..  I wish!

> When I cut out the only piece of floor I have large enough is the
> lounge - I need to push the furniture back, remove the rugs, and
> vacuum (I have two long-haired dogs) - this tends to be my main
> stumbling block.

We had that problem - then we built a sewing room onto the house.
 
> I got some really nice linen at Whaley's yesterday - a cotton/linen
> twill in beige and white, and a blue/white all linen twill. They also
> had plain linen in various "natural looking colours". These were all
> in the specials section, at £3.50 per 60" wide metre!! (+ VAT) of
> course. It's worth keeping an eye on the specials section.
> www.whaleys.co.uk

Absolutely.  I love some fo the fabrics I've had form there <thinks of 
the 8 metres of  90-something inches wide calico he boiled to 
preshrink 2 nights ago>
 



Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Filkers on h-costume??
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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 15:47:27 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> I've never filked....never.....not once....I've never written any filk
> songs, or sung them in public.......there are no published songs with
> my name attached to them....I deny it completely....It wasn't me, I
> wasn't there.....it was dark, I couldn't see....the dog ate my
> homework......No, really!!

It won't wash, Karen.  You should have pre-shrunk it 
first....<guffaw!>

Besides, you already let slip on one of your visits over here that you 
have a "murky past in filkdom"


Teddy
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Subject: [h-cost] (h-cost) What I bought at the Royal Opera costume sale!!!
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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 14:03:25 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

WARNING:  This is an unashamed GLOAT

On Sunday the Royal Opera at Covent Garden in london held a 
sale of  their surplus costumes.  I went and there were some 
*wonderful* things on offer, some of which I bought.

We arrived at 9am (doors opened at 10) and found the queue 
stretched from the door, right the way across the building and half 
way across Covent Garden itself.... by the time the doors opened 
the end of the queue was no longer visible from where we had 
joined it.

We got in at 11:15am.... so there had been an hour and 15 minutes 
(and over 400 people) of the sale going on already (they only 
allowed 400 people in at a time so adfter the first 400 the rest of the 
queue had to wait and each time a group left, the same number of 
people were let in)

I had expected lean pickings, but we entered a large hall *cramed 
full* of dress rails, trunks of boots and shoes etc, plus a balcony on 
3 sides of it full of wigs, hats masks and headdresses and a 
seperate room full of tutus.

the first thing I tried on didn't bode well.  lovely blue and green 
renaissance doublet with *huge* puffy orange sleeves.... too tight to 
fasten (besides which it - as did many others I saw - had a false 
front fastening and really fastened down the back), then I Struck 
Lucky.  The second thing I pulled off a rail was an off whte cotton 
velvet Elizabethan number, doublet, trunk hose with canions and 
short cape - lined in ivory silk and trimmed in gold braid and lace, 
with gold filigree buttons down the front and a real front fastening 
instead of faking it... and it fit me!

With that draped over my arm I grabbed at a mass of gold and 
black brocade with a *delicious* sheen to it and found it was a 
HenryVIII style surcote with a big real-fur collar and turnback front, 
massive couble-puff sleeves and a very full cartridge pleated body.  
Lined in plain black (sturdy cotton, byt the look/feel of it) and exactly 
my size.... Item number two!

An hour and a half more looking 'round and trying things on didn't 
produce anything else I liked enough to buy (or thought worth it for 
the limited use I'd get from it - some of the frock-coats obviously 
made for ballet  productions were *splendid* but I'd hardly ever get 
to wear one).  

I found a little leather 16th century doublet with metal fastenings for 
my six year old godson, Jared (and he charmend the staff on duty 
into reducing it to less than half price - little costume tart that he is), 
and then a nice little brown doublet and trunk hose (doublet 
trimmed in bands of slashed leather) that will do for Court garb for 
him too.  

Tom found a late 18th century coat and britches, a bicorn hat, a 
leather "scarlet pimpernel" hat and a brown velvet elizabethan 
doublet for himself and we joined the queue to pay and leave - 
unfortunately, that involved standing in line for over two and a half 
hours (it was after 3pm by the time we l left, Tom had had a bad 
hypo attack and been dealt with by the *wonderful* operahouse 
staff and Jared was thankfully on Best Behaviour or none of us 
could have coped!).

Fortunately for me (but not for my bank balance!), while we were 
standing in line they brought out fresh rails of costume and parked 
one right beside us - full of renaissance menswear.... So I added a 
black broacade (with green paned sleeves) doublet and slashed 
trunks to my pile of costume.

I spent far too much, but got some really lovely stuff.  It needs a bit 
of work (the white velvet trunks are fraying where they join the 
canions on the inner thigh on both legs, there's a gusset of 
mismatched fabric added into the waist of the black trunks making 
them too big for me (pretty much exactly my size if I remove it!!) 
and the sleeve lining on the surcote has popped a few stitches... 
none of it very big jobs to do.

The problem is it's going to caude me more expense as I have *no* 
suitable shoes for wearing with late Elizabethan and only one pair 
of "they'll do at a pinch" ones for Tudor.



Teddy
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Aug  8 12:15:59 2002
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	(envelope-from drea@nospam)
From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] (h-cost) What I bought at the Royal Opera costume
 sale!!!
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 11:52:59 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

Teddy,

I hate you.

:)

Drea


On Thu, 8 Aug 2002, Teddy wrote:

> WARNING:  This is an unashamed GLOAT
> 
> On Sunday the Royal Opera at Covent Garden in london held a 
> sale of  their surplus costumes.  I went and there were some 
> *wonderful* things on offer, some of which I bought.
> 
> We arrived at 9am (doors opened at 10) and found the queue 
> stretched from the door, right the way across the building and half 
> way across Covent Garden itself.... by the time the doors opened 
> the end of the queue was no longer visible from where we had 
> joined it.
> 
> We got in at 11:15am.... so there had been an hour and 15 minutes 
> (and over 400 people) of the sale going on already (they only 
> allowed 400 people in at a time so adfter the first 400 the rest of the 
> queue had to wait and each time a group left, the same number of 
> people were let in)
> 
> I had expected lean pickings, but we entered a large hall *cramed 
> full* of dress rails, trunks of boots and shoes etc, plus a balcony on 
> 3 sides of it full of wigs, hats masks and headdresses and a 
> seperate room full of tutus.
> 
> the first thing I tried on didn't bode well.  lovely blue and green 
> renaissance doublet with *huge* puffy orange sleeves.... too tight to 
> fasten (besides which it - as did many others I saw - had a false 
> front fastening and really fastened down the back), then I Struck 
> Lucky.  The second thing I pulled off a rail was an off whte cotton 
> velvet Elizabethan number, doublet, trunk hose with canions and 
> short cape - lined in ivory silk and trimmed in gold braid and lace, 
> with gold filigree buttons down the front and a real front fastening 
> instead of faking it... and it fit me!
> 
> With that draped over my arm I grabbed at a mass of gold and 
> black brocade with a *delicious* sheen to it and found it was a 
> HenryVIII style surcote with a big real-fur collar and turnback front, 
> massive couble-puff sleeves and a very full cartridge pleated body.  
> Lined in plain black (sturdy cotton, byt the look/feel of it) and exactly 
> my size.... Item number two!
> 
> An hour and a half more looking 'round and trying things on didn't 
> produce anything else I liked enough to buy (or thought worth it for 
> the limited use I'd get from it - some of the frock-coats obviously 
> made for ballet  productions were *splendid* but I'd hardly ever get 
> to wear one).  
> 
> I found a little leather 16th century doublet with metal fastenings for 
> my six year old godson, Jared (and he charmend the staff on duty 
> into reducing it to less than half price - little costume tart that he is), 
> and then a nice little brown doublet and trunk hose (doublet 
> trimmed in bands of slashed leather) that will do for Court garb for 
> him too.  
> 
> Tom found a late 18th century coat and britches, a bicorn hat, a 
> leather "scarlet pimpernel" hat and a brown velvet elizabethan 
> doublet for himself and we joined the queue to pay and leave - 
> unfortunately, that involved standing in line for over two and a half 
> hours (it was after 3pm by the time we l left, Tom had had a bad 
> hypo attack and been dealt with by the *wonderful* operahouse 
> staff and Jared was thankfully on Best Behaviour or none of us 
> could have coped!).
> 
> Fortunately for me (but not for my bank balance!), while we were 
> standing in line they brought out fresh rails of costume and parked 
> one right beside us - full of renaissance menswear.... So I added a 
> black broacade (with green paned sleeves) doublet and slashed 
> trunks to my pile of costume.
> 
> I spent far too much, but got some really lovely stuff.  It needs a bit 
> of work (the white velvet trunks are fraying where they join the 
> canions on the inner thigh on both legs, there's a gusset of 
> mismatched fabric added into the waist of the black trunks making 
> them too big for me (pretty much exactly my size if I remove it!!) 
> and the sleeve lining on the surcote has popped a few stitches... 
> none of it very big jobs to do.
> 
> The problem is it's going to caude me more expense as I have *no* 
> suitable shoes for wearing with late Elizabethan and only one pair 
> of "they'll do at a pinch" ones for Tudor.
> 
> 
> 
> Teddy
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 09:00:53 -0700
Status: RO

Teddy wrote:
> 
> WARNING:  This is an unashamed GLOAT
> 
> On Sunday the Royal Opera at Covent Garden in london held a
> sale of  their surplus costumes.  I went and there were some
> *wonderful* things on offer, some of which I bought.
> 
Teddy it all sounds lovely.  I hate you, but it all sounds lovely.

Stephen

PS - Are you planning on coming to Costume-Con 21?
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From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Filkers on h-costume?? (WAS: How I got involved)
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 09:15:41 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

And filking is nearly as expensive a hobby as
costuming....what with books ("wanna buy a songbook
little bard?") and cds.

And while I haven't indulged lately in purchasing
either books or cds, long ago I did succumb to the
songbook pusher in order to have my hands on Heather's
stuff. 

After all, "Welsh History 101B" is so much more fun
when sung by someone Welsh. *lol*


Angharad,

who determined that the stack of filkbooks/lyric
sheets was nearly 24" tall last month, when I pulled
it out to take to an event.


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From: "Sarah Lorraine" <sarah@elizabethanlady.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: 'perfect elizabethan' was Re: [h-cost] Renaissance Faires in the U.S.
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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 12:24:24 -0400
Status: RO

This will be my second attempt at sending this.  Appologies if it crops 
up a second time in another few months...

> > I completely agree with you.  Personally speaking I couldn't use 
them either,
> > but the Elizabethans
> > did. 
> 
> Yes... but taht does mean tyhat we have changed and evolved in this 
respect (if
> in others? Not too sure..) and that we don't have to use it. I have 
no problems
> using artificial whalebone, this being the ONLY man-made non period
> fibre/material that I don't mind being used, just because we have 
understood
> now hopefully, that slaughtering whales is not a good thing.

Couldn't agree more, but there is apparently a market for used 
whalebone.  Not too many weeks ago it was brought to my attention that 
someone was offering several lengths of the real stuff on ebay, 
probably salvaged from a 19th century corset (they were curved in such 
a way that suggested a mid-to-late 19th century corset).  So it is 
possible to get "antique" whalebone, much as it's possible to still 
find antique ivory (elephant and walrus) on the market.  For some 
people that would be enough of an excuse to use it in a costume and for 
others it would still be unconscionable.  

Sarah
http://www.elizabethanlady.com
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From: "Sarah Lorraine" <sarah@elizabethanlady.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your favourite sewing/needlework?
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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 12:27:25 -0400
Status: RO

Again, this is the second time I'm sending this out.  Sorry... :P

> I was just wondering (while stitching the last bits on the blasted 
redcoat)
> what people like best in making costumes. I actually don't like 
making the
> costumes themselves, I can't even stand it, that's why I always start 
so late.
> I don't even particularly like sewing. *laughs*

Hahahahaha!  That's pretty much the same way I feel.  Well, actually, I 
do enjoy sewing.  I just have a love-hate relationship with it, because 
by nature I'm rather short on patience and attention, but I'm also 
stubborn as all get-out and I hate having unfinished projects lying 
around, and I tend to be rather obsessive.  So I bounce back and forth 
between being so passionately consumed by the process of costuming to 
the point of forgetting to eat, shower, answer the call of nature, etc. 
and then spending a fair amount of time screaming and yelling and 
cursing like a sailor at a heap of indiferent fabric.  And people 
always are quick to insist that I should do this for a living... Let me 
just say to anyone out there reading this who makes costumes for a 
living that I have nothing but admiration for you.  :)

> What does everone else like best/worst in making costumes?

Oh, topping my list of things that are like pulling teeth would have to 
be pleating skirts.  I *hate* pleating skirts.  I love cartridge 
pleating because it's a no-brainer, but any kind of pleat that requires 
me to accuritely calculate the ratio of fabric per pleat per inches in 
the waist measurement makes me insane!  Second on that list would have 
to be collars... I'm currently working on a doublet bodice that has a 
slightly different style of open collar than normal and I'm stuck at 
the point right now where I'm having to get creative with adjusting the 
side seams to make it open correctly.  :P

On the list of things that I love to do would have to be corsets.  I 
can whip out a corset in under an hour (not factoring in handsewing the 
binding which can take me a good 2 hours or so after that) if it's 
using metal or plastic boning.  It takes a bit longer for reeds, but 
I'm also not handsewing my boning channels.  Admittedly, I'm curious to 
find out if it would be as horrible as I've been imaginging it to 
handsew an entire corset.  I suppose I'll find out soon enough as I 
won't be able to take my sewing machine with me when I go to University 
next month... I like making hats, too, but I'm not spectacular at it 
yet.  Research and design are also high up there.  Honestly, as much as 
it drives me crazy, I love the creative process every step of the way.

Sarah
http://www.elizabethanlady.com

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Subject: [h-cost] cheaper silk taffeta? [was: perfect elizabethan]
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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 12:59:04 -0500
Status: RO

N Kipar wrote:
> 
> Okay, when I got my superb Imperial silk taffeta for the
> blue dress that Bjarne made me I paid £40 per meter. Ouch. Well.. now I know
> taht the exact same fabric is available for about £15 pounds! You just have to
> know the right person to buy it and not buy via a retailer (and certainly not
> Radhika's in Bristol)

Who is this person and how do I find them?  Silk
taffeta...mmmmmmmmmm....and if you ever figure out that linen source,
enquiring minds want to know!

;)
Melanie Schuessler
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your favourite sewing/needlework?
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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 08:39:43 -0700
Status: RO


> > I HATE cutting out.  It takes me so long to get a costume started,
> > because it takes so long to get through that first stage.  Doesn't
> > help that I do it on the floor and it makes my knees sore.
>
>I'm with you there Jean, but have solved the sore-knee problem
>with skateboard kneepads (alternatively, those strap on ones they
>sell for gardeners who kneel a lot to weed and plant beds)

Carpet installers use them too, as do painters, and you can get them at 
places that sell stuff to those folks too.

Kayta

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] modern ethnic garments
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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 09:02:56 -0700
Status: RO


>I sure do see similar influences in music, though, and in food.
>Combinations can be as shuddersome as taco pizza (blech!) or as
>wonderful as some of the fusion music I listen to--odd combinations of
>Irish, Scots, or Breton instruments, with diggeridoos, and African or
>Caribbean drumming....
>I like to think of it as being blessed by the riches of the whole world,
>rather than my own little corner of it.

That's one of the best things about living in California.  You get ethnic 
diversity in restaurants, music (live), and especially fabric stores.

I am currently tracking down either a maker or an importer of the boots the 
'Folklorico' (a Mexican folk dance style) dancers wear.  The boots are made 
in Mexico.  They look just like lace-up Victorian boots because they are 
still made from the same older patterns.  They are built for dancing and 
stomping in, out of thicker leather than 100-year-old vintage ones 
are.  They tend to have what I would call 'Cuban' heels, not spool 
heels.  If the rumor I heard is correct, they are made-to-measure, which 
means I can get them the right size for my very-wide foot.  I think I need 
to go down to the Mexican neighborhood in San Jose to find them, and spend 
all day poking around in the shops (and eating the good food, etc.).


Kayta

    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 12:04:49 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Thu, 8 Aug 2002, Sarah Lorraine wrote:

> Oh, topping my list of things that are like pulling teeth would have to 
> be pleating skirts.  I *hate* pleating skirts.  I love cartridge 
> pleating because it's a no-brainer, but any kind of pleat that requires 
> me to accuritely calculate the ratio of fabric per pleat per inches in 
> the waist measurement makes me insane!

OK, I keep hearing people talk about measuring and math to do pleats. I
have never ever used measurements for pleats. Am I the only person who
does it like this:

With a fabric marker, chalk, or pins, mark the ends of the pleated section
on the waistband (end to end, usually, or one end to the point of overlap
if you've got an overlapping bit). Fold in half so your marks meet, and
mark the center. Fold each half in half, then mark the centers again.
Continue till your marks are as far apart as you want your pleats.

Do the same on the edge of skirt fabric that will be going into the
waistband, but make the same number of folds and marks as you did on the
waistband.

Place right sides together and pin the ends exactly on the marks. Then
match each mark on the waistband with the corresponding mark on the skirt.

Distribute the skirt fabric in each section by aligning the skirt fabric
along the waistband till you hit the next pin, pinning to make a fold of
the excess, then pulling the excess back over the part you just aligned.
There are a handful of different ways you can do this; for instance, make
twice as many marks as you intended and alternate the directions (for box
pleats).

Then sew.

This has never failed me, and I've never had to do any math except count
my marks -- 2, 4, 8, 16, 32.

--Robin


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Aug  8 13:48:51 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] cheaper silk taffeta? [was: perfect elizabethan]
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 10:13:30 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Just recently, Kendra and I found silk taffeta (very limited color selection, though)
for $14 US per yard in the fabric district in LA -- not a bad price at all!
(and that was before bargaining.  I bet I could have gotten it for $10/yard if we'd
made a big show over it and offered to buy 20 yards...)



.heather.


> 
> N Kipar wrote:
> > 
> > Okay, when I got my superb Imperial silk taffeta for the
> > blue dress that Bjarne made me I paid £40 per meter. Ouch. Well.. now I know
> > taht the exact same fabric is available for about £15 pounds! You just have to
> > know the right person to buy it and not buy via a retailer (and certainly not
> > Radhika's in Bristol)
> 
> Who is this person and how do I find them?  Silk
> taffeta...mmmmmmmmmm....and if you ever figure out that linen source,
> enquiring minds want to know!
> 
> ;)
> Melanie Schuessler
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Aug  8 13:49:09 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] modern ethnic garments
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 10:16:40 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

let us know when you find them -- I would love a pair of victorian boots
for dancing in!

(in san francisco)
.heather.


> 
> 
> >I sure do see similar influences in music, though, and in food.
> >Combinations can be as shuddersome as taco pizza (blech!) or as
> >wonderful as some of the fusion music I listen to--odd combinations of
> >Irish, Scots, or Breton instruments, with diggeridoos, and African or
> >Caribbean drumming....
> >I like to think of it as being blessed by the riches of the whole world,
> >rather than my own little corner of it.
> 
> That's one of the best things about living in California.  You get ethnic 
> diversity in restaurants, music (live), and especially fabric stores.
> 
> I am currently tracking down either a maker or an importer of the boots the 
> 'Folklorico' (a Mexican folk dance style) dancers wear.  The boots are made 
> in Mexico.  They look just like lace-up Victorian boots because they are 
> still made from the same older patterns.  They are built for dancing and 
> stomping in, out of thicker leather than 100-year-old vintage ones 
> are.  They tend to have what I would call 'Cuban' heels, not spool 
> heels.  If the rumor I heard is correct, they are made-to-measure, which 
> means I can get them the right size for my very-wide foot.  I think I need 
> to go down to the Mexican neighborhood in San Jose to find them, and spend 
> all day poking around in the shops (and eating the good food, etc.).
> 
> 
> Kayta
> 
>     //// \\\
>    ////-@@\\\
>   ((((   7 )))
>    (((  <> ))))
>       )   ((((((
> /----\   /---\))
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Aug  8 13:53:45 2002
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 13:32:58 -0400
Status: RO

    For me it would have to be the whole process which is enjoyable, which
is likely why it takes me so long to do any one garment. I tend to over-do
most things, choosing grandiose projects instead of simple, one or two day
projects. I love figuring out patterns, and am in the process of working on
some male Regency proto-types intended for eventual commercial marketing. I
love transfering the garments to cloth along with the embroidery designs
I've spent time researching and developing, stretching that on the frame,
embroidering, taking it off the frame, cutting it out with that breathless
anxiousness that has me wondering if indeed I'd checked all my measurements
several times. Love the hand-sewing as well. Then of course comes the
biggest perk of all, having the person the garment was made for try it on,
or seeing it on a maniken.

    My biggest problem is transitions. It's the in-between stages that
always get to me, put me in a state of inertia. Silly, really, but I have
that problem with everything: writing, painting, costuming, housework,
bookkeeping, even filling an order. That's why I'm likely such a
control-freak, cause if I didn't sit on myself (imagines this rather odd
picture) I'd likely end up like a windup toy forever bumping into a corner.
Discipline, discipline, discipline. Sigh.

Regards
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage
fine hand-sewn embroidered garments, historical sewing patterns & embroidery
supplies
(519) 799-5577, fax (519) 799-5418 http://www.5rivers.org  email:
info@5rivers.org


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] cheaper silk taffeta? [was: perfect elizabethan]
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 18:32:05 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote: >

> Who is this person and how do I find them?  Silk
> taffeta...mmmmmmmmmm....

You need a seamstress/tailor to actually buy it for you.

and if you ever figure out that linen source,
> enquiring minds want to know!

I'll have a look if they are at Kirby, I hope so because I am at last running
out of my linen!

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pleats (was: What's your favorite...)
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 18:43:45 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote: > 

> OK, I keep hearing people talk about measuring and math to do pleats. I
> have never ever used measurements for pleats. Am I the only person who
> does it like this:

Same here, because maths=evil, rule of thumb=good

> With a fabric marker, chalk, or pins, mark the ends of the pleated section
> on the waistband (end to end, usually, or one end to the point of overlap
> if you've got an overlapping bit). Fold in half so your marks meet, and
> mark the center. Fold each half in half, then mark the centers again.
> Continue till your marks are as far apart as you want your pleats.

Almost, I do a few less of the folds and use a ruler for the rest (divide the
measurements with a calculator :-)

> Place right sides together and pin the ends exactly on the marks. Then
> match each mark on the waistband with the corresponding mark on the skirt.

yep

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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--0-1700507703-1028829495=:62746
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I don't hate you !! I just wish I lived in London. Then I could have been there buying beautiful clothing. 

Sharon



---------------------------------
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<P>I don't hate you !! I just wish I lived in London. Then I could have been there buying beautiful clothing. </P>
<P>Sharon</P><p><br><hr size=1><b>Do You Yahoo!?</b><br>
<a href="http://rd.yahoo.com/careers/mailsig/new/*http://www.hotjobs.com">HotJobs, a Yahoo! service</a> - Search Thousands of New Jobs
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 10:55:55 -0700
Status: RO


> OK, I keep hearing people talk about measuring and math to do pleats.
> I have never ever used measurements for pleats. Am I the only person
> who does it like this:

No, Robin, you are not the only one who does it this way.

I used to measure carefully and do the math, but then I found that 
real life and paper measurements do not always correspond in a 
one-to-one fashion. I've had much less frustration since doing it 
your way! 

Sometimes it is more elementary than that (when doing cartridge 
pleats for instance.) Then I divide the line to be stitched and the 
one to be stitched onto into 8 parts (thus limiting the number of 1/2 
of a 1/2 of a 1/2s I have to do), then pin it in place (or otherwise 
mark it. Then I just readjust the pleats so that they are visually 
even over the area (usually about 2-6" depending on the garment 
and the person who will be wearing it.)


Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] silly question re: silk types
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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 14:01:23 -0400
Status: RO

What's the difference between doupioni and shantung?  I've been looking into
fabric for a dress to wear to a wedding this fall, and have been doing some
looking on the web in addition to locally.  Some web sites seem to use the two
terms interchangeably, while others have them as two different animals.  Help ,
please?

Thanks!

--jen

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] cheaper silk taffeta? [was: perfect elizabethan]
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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 14:14:45 -0500
Status: RO

N Kipar wrote:
> 
>  --- Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote: >
> 
> > Who is this person and how do I find them?  Silk
> > taffeta...mmmmmmmmmm....
> 
> You need a seamstress/tailor to actually buy it for you.

Why?  Wholesale only?  I have connections if you have a phone number or
website or email address.

Heather Meadows wrote:
> 
> Just recently, Kendra and I found silk taffeta (very limited color selection, though)
> for $14 US per yard in the fabric district in LA -- not a bad price at all!
> (and that was before bargaining.  I bet I could have gotten it for $10/yard if we'd
> made a big show over it and offered to buy 20 yards...)

What store was it?  Do they do mail-order?

Thanks,
Melanie
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] corset stays
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 10:49:02 -0700
Status: RO

Try Farthingale's:

www.farthingales.on.ca/

- Kendra

----- Original Message -----
From: "P. A. Stonnell" <hlisobel@shaw.ca>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2002 9:20 AM
Subject: [h-cost] corset stays


> Help!
>
> The only place that we know of in our local area (Vancouver, BC, Canada)
> that carries metal corset stays has become very unreliable.  Once in a
> while you can go in and get some, but that is happening less and less.
>
> Can the good members of this list recommend a reliable mailorder source?
> Is there somewhere in Canada (so we don't have to deal with duty and
customs)?
>
> Thank you
>
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>
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>
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From: Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] modern ethnic garments
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 06:24:17 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

--- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:
> I used to be of the opinion that, since the advent of the universal
> 
> Westernization of world clothing, any genuine ethnic garment that
> is still 
> being worn is historical.  But garments like sarees and Palestinian
> dresses 
> are instances of non-Western historical styles which are still
> evolving - 
> still being designed, made, and worn.
[snip]

The "folklore" look is very hot right now in modern fashion--beading,
embroidery, trim, etc. and I think that some ethnic clothing is just
always going to be around because it is so practical and comfortable
and functional. You do get into a tricky spot, however, when trying
to separate the "modern" details from the historical basis of the
garment. For example, the sari is an historical garment, but a floral
polyester one is not appropriate if you are doing Mughal period,
&etc. But I like the fact that fashion evolves, sometimes
independently of the fashion industry. 

mirv



=====
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From: "Mary Temple" <noxcat@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothes in 50 states
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Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 18:03:38 +0000
Status: RO

heh. Now that they've passed the Concealed carry law, the guns here in Texas 
are neatly stowed away.

Mary/Katerine
(who tries to drive very softly and carries no Big Stick!)


>And the shotguns are, tilted rakishly to the left, cocked and ready to go.
>:)
>
>Apollonia
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: AlbertCat@aol.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2002 12:50 PM
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothes in 50 states
>
>
>Now why exclude Greensboro and Charlotte? And is the shot gun worn rakishly
>tilted to the left, or straight on? Durham and the Research Triangle are 
>the
>most "Progressive". A phenomenon that I'm sure is also true of Europe, is
>that when you leave the city limits, the close change REAL fast to rural
>incarnations.
>I don't mean to sound prejudice but Black people down here seem to have the
>most fun with their clothes. I've the BEST outfits!
>
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From: Heather Meadows <alice@wonderland.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] cheaper silk taffeta? [was: perfect elizabethan]
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 11:31:49 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

I have no idea what stores we saw them in -- it was the same price every place I asked,
and all the stores are really just stalls, so I didn't check any signs.
don't think any of them do mail order.

.heather.


> 
> Heather Meadows wrote:
> > 
> > Just recently, Kendra and I found silk taffeta (very limited color selection, though)
> > for $14 US per yard in the fabric district in LA -- not a bad price at all!
> > (and that was before bargaining.  I bet I could have gotten it for $10/yard if we'd
> > made a big show over it and offered to buy 20 yards...)
> 
> What store was it?  Do they do mail-order?
> 
> Thanks,
> Melanie
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Aug  8 14:57:09 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Interesting corset on ebay
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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 11:33:22 -0700
Status: RO

There's an interesting corset up for auction on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2128835021

It's short, looks like it might end at the waist, but I think it's even 
shorter than that. It's got shoulder straps, but they're not connected and 
there doesn't appear to be any way of  connecting, unless you pinned them 
after you got the corset laced up. It looks a lot like a child's corset, 
but it isn't because there are obvious bust gussets, and the dimensions are 
adult sized.

I'm thinking this could be a Regency corset, or perhaps the 1820's, but I'm 
not totally convinced. It's quite unusual. The seller doesn't have any 
provenance, calls it a "half" corset (that IS what it looks like) but wants 
to date it to from 1840 to 1870. If it's authentic I'd say it has to be 
earlier, but I'm not convinced it's authentic.

Anyone have any other theories?

Julie


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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] cheaper silk taffeta? [was: perfect elizabethan]
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 19:34:45 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote: > N Kipar wrote:
> > 
> >  --- Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote: >
> > 
> > > Who is this person and how do I find them?  Silk
> > > taffeta...mmmmmmmmmm....
> > 
> > You need a seamstress/tailor to actually buy it for you.
> 
> Why?  Wholesale only?  I have connections if you have a phone number or
> website or email address.

I'm sorry, I would have to ask my own seamstress, she didn't tell me where she
gets it, and I didn't ask coz i would have to get it via her. It's from the UK
though, so I don't know how much the shipping and stuff would add.

Nicole

=====
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Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 14:46:52 EDT
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In a message dated 8/8/2002 2:19:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
jen@netdefender.com writes:


> What's the difference between doupioni and shantung?  

It is my understanding that dupioni has more of a slub and is the "rougher" 
looking of the two. Shantung has a less frequent and finer slub thread.


What IS it with all this dupioni? Why aren't there more silk taffetas around 
here in the provinces? I mean, if it were here, it would sell. Doncha think?

--part1_1b8.475c5f2.2a84169c_boundary
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 8/8/2002 2:19:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jen@netdefender.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">What's the difference between doupioni and shantung? &nbsp;</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>It is my understanding that dupioni has more of a slub and is the "rougher" looking of the two. Shantung has a less frequent and finer slub thread.
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>What IS it with all this dupioni? Why aren't there more silk taffetas around here in the provinces? I mean, if it were here, it would sell. Doncha think?</FONT></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Aug  8 15:35:50 2002
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From: Kay Shelton <delasue@yahoo.com>
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 12:11:26 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

I'd like to thank the people who answered my question
about flat felled seams, especially Drue who sent me a
very informative email.  The is the website with
pictures of the costume I made:
http://users.starpower.net/cragins/costumes/

This is the first costume I've made for a man and I am
pleased with the way it turned out and very, very
happy that it is finished!  

I wanted to slash between the trim but my method of
treating the slash as if it were a bound buttonhole
didn't look good.  Has anyone else done slashes?  What
do you do?  Also I really do know that the grommets
should be bound eyelets or at least covered in thread.
 But I wanted all of those holes because it looks much
like of the outfits in Arnold.  I didn't want to spend
the time to cover them and I haven't learned how to
make hand-bound eyelets yet.  Maybe next time.  So I'm
relying on the "convention" of grommets.  I told
Arthur he could have someone else cover them if he
ever runs into trouble with a Costume Director.

I made a bag for him to carry the extra ribbon to use
when he is not using the sleeves and then told him his
character was too high class to carry it.  I think I
confused him.  

Kay

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] silly question re: silk types
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 14:18:23 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Thu, 8 Aug 2002 AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

> > What's the difference between doupioni and shantung?
> 
> It is my understanding that dupioni has more of a slub and is the
> "rougher"  looking of the two. Shantung has a less frequent and finer
> slub thread.

That's my understanding too. However, an individual shop or supplier may
(wrongly) use either name to refer to any silk that has an obvious weft
line/ridges to it.

> What IS it with all this dupioni? Why aren't there more silk taffetas
> around here in the provinces? I mean, if it were here, it would sell.
> Doncha think?

Yes, if people were intelligent like us ;-)  But I'm watching the dupioni
fly off the shelves at the shop I'm working at. I think people today value
the slubby look and almost papery (maybe not the right word?) feel of
dupioni as being obviously "silk." There's nothing else that looks like
that. By contrast, a good synthetic taffeta looks very much the same as a
silk taffeta, so when people see real silk taffeta, they often don't see
why it should cost so much more than the similar-looking synthetic
version. (Touch it and you'll know the difference, and we know the subtle
difference in shine, but the looks don't scream "silk" to the modern
buyer.)

The silks and wools I seek for medieval costuming are definitely not the
sorts of fabric modern people think of when you say "silk" or "wool." And
when I wear my wool worsted or silk bengaline, people are surprised to
find out that it's wool or silk, because that's not what they envisioned
it would look like. To them, "wool" often conjures up an impression of
fuzzy and thick (like blankets and coats), and "silk" is China silk.

--Robin

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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 15:19:18 -0300
Status: RO

Could this be part of a costume - possibly a dancer's bodice to be worn over
something with filmy sleeves?  It's certainly old, but it doesn't look like
a corset.

 Martha


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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 15:19:18 -0300
Status: RO


I have to comment, because a lady and I got into an argument about this in a
fabric store in New York this week. After our discussion, I asked every
store owner I dealt with. There are technical differences that you can look
up in textile dictionaries and on the web, but I'll tell you what I found
out "on the street."

Many owners said, "Same, same.  No difference. All same."  A few agreed that
there WAS a difference. The shiny, slubby stuff - sometimes in lovely plaids
and stripes - that's what they're calling dupioni.  The much rougher one
that says "jacket" or "pillow" is being called shantung. It's not as shiny.

Does that make any sense?

Martha

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Aug  8 16:53:06 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com, h-costume@indra.com
From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Arming Bolsters?
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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 13:25:10 -0700
Status: RO

Some men, when wearing Elizabethan slops or Venetian breeches, wear what
they call an "arming bolster" under them, in order to give the proper
spring out from the waist and, I am told to support the weight of the sword
belt and its danglies.  It's basically a smaller version of the bum roll,
about 1" in cross section.

They seem to be a practical idea, but I'd like to find out if they were
actually worn in period.  can anyone point me to a contempory reference?

Thanks,

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Subject: [h-cost] interesting ebay corset
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 16:07:12 -0500
Status: RO

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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I have a theory- its part of an entertainers costume or perhaps fancy =
dress costume-(I just got a new plate of fancy dress costumes for 1883 =
so I'm stuck on them at the moment) and I'm guessing late 19th century.
MJ

Doug and Marna Jean Davis
Shooting Star Enterprises
Living History & Custom Historical Clothing
http://www.shootingstarhistory.com/home.html
 oakley@access-one.com
Alternate email-
oakley@shootingstarhistory.com

Instructor for www.costumeclassroom.com -
 Victorian and Old West Era=20
Online Classes in History and Period Sewing

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<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dwindows-1252" =
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman">I have a theory- its part of an =
entertainers=20
costume or perhaps fancy dress costume-(I just got a new plate of fancy =
dress=20
costumes for 1883 so I'm stuck on them at the moment) and I'm guessing =
late 19th=20
century.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman">MJ</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman">Doug and Marna Jean =
Davis<BR>Shooting Star=20
Enterprises<BR>Living History &amp; Custom Historical =
Clothing<BR></FONT><A=20
href=3D"http://www.shootingstarhistory.com/home.html"><FONT=20
face=3D"Times New =
Roman">http://www.shootingstarhistory.com/home.html</FONT></A><BR><FONT=20
face=3D"Times New Roman">&nbsp;</FONT><A =
href=3D"mailto:oakley@access-one.com"><FONT=20
face=3D"Times New Roman">oakley@access-one.com</FONT></A><BR><FONT=20
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<DIV><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman">Instructor for <A=20
href=3D"http://www.costumeclassroom.com">www.costumeclassroom.com</A>=20
-<BR>&nbsp;Victorian and Old West Era <BR>Online Classes in History and =
Period=20
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] (h-cost) What I bought at the Royal Opera costume sale!!!
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 16:35:28 -0500
Status: RO

I can't wait to see pics of you wearing them....and maybe a fashion show
the next time I visit! They sound yummy......and now I'm all misty about
missing Covent Garden which is one of my favorite parts of London.



Karen

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Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 08:44:41 +1000
Status: RO

I'm quite happy with researching, designing, drafting, cutting out, and 
first stages of sewing. I'm also quite happy hand sewing, embroidering, 
making various bobbin or needle laces  and accessories. I don't have a 
particularly favorite task cos I have to be in the mood/ appropriate use of 
time (like taking my hand sewing over to the uni and sitting in the caf 
sewing and gossiping for the afternoon). I love the challenge of getting 
something right and close to the period as I can get (that would probably 
explain why I've started to teach my self to spin and weave (for earlier 
periods)

Fitting the garment ( I have never been taught how to fit things properly) 
and hemming (as in fixing the length so its correct all the way around not 
sewing) skirts (particularly ones over hoops skirts) drive me crazy because 
I can't do it by myself, I share a house with 3 boys aged between 22-25 and 
I'm the most experienced sewer in that usually turns up to sewing nights.

Sharon Nevin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dressing up? (WAS: How I got involved)
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 22:41:13 +0100
Status: RO

Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote
>
>And one of my daughters' favourite colour was always black, even from a 
>very young age, and she still likes functional clothes and plain 
>dresses (when she has to wear a dress) to the kind of feminine things 
>other girls like (which drives the other daughter, who went thru a 
>ruffly-pink-dress phase, crazy).
>
>Kayta
>
I never forget the time my mother looked at me and said despairingly 
"You really do suit black!"  She hates anyone wearing all black, but she 
couldn't deny it looked good.

-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pleats (was: What's your favorite...)
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Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 09:05:17 -0700
Status: RO



Robin Netherton wrote:

> On Thu, 8 Aug 2002, Sarah Lorraine wrote:
>
> > Oh, topping my list of things that are like pulling teeth would have to
> > be pleating skirts.  I *hate* pleating skirts.  I love cartridge
> > pleating because it's a no-brainer, but any kind of pleat that requires
> > me to accuritely calculate the ratio of fabric per pleat per inches in
> > the waist measurement makes me insane!
>
> OK, I keep hearing people talk about measuring and math to do pleats. I
> have never ever used measurements for pleats. Am I the only person who
> does it like this:
>

No, I do it this way too, and I'm a mathematician!
On the other hand I have trouble with cartridge pleats, because I can
never seem to work out how big to make the gathering stitiches to pull
the skirt up exactly to the size of the waistband/bodice. Anyone have
a foolproof method for this one?

Claire

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Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 09:10:42 -0700
Status: RO



N Kipar wrote:

> What does everone else like best/worst in making costumes?
>

I like the part where it all starts coming together and looking like the thing
you wanted it to. I still think there's a kind of magic in taking 2 dimensional
stuff and making it into something 3d...
I also like doing fiddly bits of handsewing where you are manipulating the
fabric as much with your fingers as with the needle. And detailed bits that
make the garment look 'neat' - I'm not quite sure how to explain that except it's
like when you put on a facing and get a perfectly mitred corner and it makes the
front of the jacket look nice and crisp and hang just right - that's a bit of a
thrill too.

I don't like cutting out because it makes me paranoid, and I have a lot of trouble
making myself do finishing off stuff like hems (despite what I said above). I guess

I get to a certain point and run out of steam. My brain says - this is close enough
to
done  -and moves onto the next thing.
Claire

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pleats (was: What's your favorite...)
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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 00:21:58 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Claire Clarke <Lady_Angharad@bigpond.com> wrote: > 

> No, I do it this way too, and I'm a mathematician!
> On the other hand I have trouble with cartridge pleats, because I can
> never seem to work out how big to make the gathering stitiches to pull
> the skirt up exactly to the size of the waistband/bodice. Anyone have
> a foolproof method for this one?

Uhm... you are probably going to scream now being a mathematician but I NEVER
cxalculate anything when I cartridge pleat. I just pleat, as big or small as I
think looks good and then I just shuffle the pleats prettily and neatly along
the waistband. works everytime, truly foolproof and I wouldn't even know how to
do the calculation thing (I'm dyscalcic, numbers mean nothing to me).

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT:  Filkers on h-costume?? (WAS: How I got involved)
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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 09:26:56 +1000
Status: RO

Thanks Kat and Cynthia!

I'd heard the term Broadsides before, but never really associated it with
our particular brand of scurrilous songs (I thought it was the act of
publishing song words, rather than the writing of alternate verse), and I
now know the true history of the term contrafract!

Thanks heaps,

A more knowledgable Glenda

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pleats (was: What's your favorite...)
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 16:41:11 -0700
Status: RO


> No, I do it this way too, and I'm a mathematician!
> On the other hand I have trouble with cartridge pleats, because I can
> never seem to work out how big to make the gathering stitiches to pull
> the skirt up exactly to the size of the waistband/bodice. Anyone have
> a foolproof method for this one?

While I wouldn't say it was foolproof, I leave the thread "loose" but 
wound in a figure eight around a pin. That way I can adjust it as 
needed. After it is sewn on, I then will tie off the thread/strand. I'll 
call it a strand since sometimes I use one heavy duty thread, 
sometimes a doubled one and occasionally even a quadrupled one.)

Also, I don't have a single strand running around the whole 
waistband. I do that in quarters or eighths too. The reason for this 
is that if you pop a strand, you don't get the whole skirt popping 
out, only that one section, which makes it much easier to repair. (I 
do the sewing of the pleats the same way for the same reason. 
Can you tell I've seen too many which have unraveled themselves in 
the middle of important usage?)

The tricky part of this is that you have to have the strands of one 
section slightly overlapping those of another section so that you 
don't accidently get an "empty" area with a pleat valley which 
doesn't have a strand holding it in place.


Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pleats (was: What's your favorite...)
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 18:33:39 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Fri, 9 Aug 2002, Claire Clarke wrote:

> On the other hand I have trouble with cartridge pleats, because I can
> never seem to work out how big to make the gathering stitiches to pull
> the skirt up exactly to the size of the waistband/bodice. Anyone have
> a foolproof method for this one?

Mark the waistband and the skirt in quarters. Run four gathering threads
-- one for each quarter. Pin the quarter-marks together before you pull up
the gathers. Do one quarter at a time -- pull up the gathering to match
the waistband, tie off the gathering thread, move to the next.

If you're not sure how big to make your stitches, do one quarter all the
way first. You can re-do if necessary. Then once you've got the right
rhythm, use it on the others. But I never had much issue with the size of
the pleats -- it always seemed to work.

I'm open to better suggestions!

--Robin

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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 9:27:21 -0500
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> >
> What about bone from one of the many dead, beached whales?  That wouldn't
> harm the whale population in any way, and the whale certainly wouldn't be
> needing it anymore....
> 
> Pam Dotson
> Everett, WA  USA


    It is however still in most cases illegal. I say most cases because their are some institutions and peoples who are provided license or exclusions.  For instance some Native Americans are allowed to hunt whales, and some places are allowed to own whale parts (Colonial Williamsburg for instance).  However, it the United States it is illegal in most cases to own the parts of any endangered species, regardless of how the creature died, unless the item can be proven to exist prior to the ban.  (I have a collection of 19th century ivory for instance).

     The strangest extension of this would be eagle feathers.  Eagle naturally lose feathers with no harm done to themselves, but they are still illegal to own for most Americans.

    I suspect a large part of this is to deny a possible defense to poachers.

Cheers,
Ron


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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting corset on ebay
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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 17:18:04 -0700
Status: RO

I think it's too straight around the bottom to be an evening bodice from 
the 1880s, which it kind-of looks like.  It might be a European folk 
costume bodice (I own one that has separable straps and a straight-around 
waist like this, but usually these open in front).  I think it's probably 
an item of Fancy Dress from someplace, because of the nice material and the 
gold, apparently sewn on there to show.  It might be actually old, but it's 
hard to tell from e-bay's pictures.  It's certainly not a corset, because 
it doesn't extend below the waist.  Even Regency corsets do that.

>There's an interesting corset up for auction on ebay:
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2128835021
>
>It's short, looks like it might end at the waist, but I think it's even 
>shorter than that. It's got shoulder straps, but they're not connected and 
>there doesn't appear to be any way of  connecting, unless you pinned them 
>after you got the corset laced up. It looks a lot like a child's corset, 
>but it isn't because there are obvious bust gussets, and the dimensions 
>are adult sized.
>
>I'm thinking this could be a Regency corset, or perhaps the 1820's, but 
>I'm not totally convinced. It's quite unusual. The seller doesn't have any 
>provenance, calls it a "half" corset (that IS what it looks like) but 
>wants to date it to from 1840 to 1870. If it's authentic I'd say it has to 
>be earlier, but I'm not convinced it's authentic.
>
>Anyone have any other theories?
>
>Julie
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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Kayta

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pleats (was: What's your favorite...)
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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 17:23:25 -0700
Status: RO

When I have a commercial pattern that tells me to gather something into 
something else (like shirt sleeves into cuffs) I do it the 
half/quarter/eighth/etc method.  But when I'm the one planning the pleats, 
I use the 'three times' rule, where the stuff to be pleated is three times 
the length of the thing onto which it will be pleated.  Most sizes of 
pleats I do work with that for a measuring scheme.  And if it doesn't come 
out even, I fudge it at the placket.  (I was a Math Major for a couple of 
semesters.)  Cartridge pleating is all fudging once you have the material 
pleated up and ready to pin and stitch.  Just yank on the gathering threads 
till it's the right size, arrange the pleats evenly along it, then pin them 
in place.

> > Oh, topping my list of things that are like pulling teeth would have to
> > be pleating skirts.  I *hate* pleating skirts.  I love cartridge
> > pleating because it's a no-brainer, but any kind of pleat that requires
> > me to accuritely calculate the ratio of fabric per pleat per inches in
> > the waist measurement makes me insane!
>
>OK, I keep hearing people talk about measuring and math to do pleats. I
>have never ever used measurements for pleats. Am I the only person who
>does it like this:
>
>With a fabric marker, chalk, or pins, mark the ends of the pleated section
>on the waistband (end to end, usually, or one end to the point of overlap
>if you've got an overlapping bit). Fold in half so your marks meet, and
>mark the center. Fold each half in half, then mark the centers again.
>Continue till your marks are as far apart as you want your pleats.
>
>Do the same on the edge of skirt fabric that will be going into the
>waistband, but make the same number of folds and marks as you did on the
>waistband.
>
>Place right sides together and pin the ends exactly on the marks. Then
>match each mark on the waistband with the corresponding mark on the skirt.
>
>Distribute the skirt fabric in each section by aligning the skirt fabric
>along the waistband till you hit the next pin, pinning to make a fold of
>the excess, then pulling the excess back over the part you just aligned.
>There are a handful of different ways you can do this; for instance, make
>twice as many marks as you intended and alternate the directions (for box
>pleats).
>
>Then sew.
>
>This has never failed me, and I've never had to do any math except count
>my marks -- 2, 4, 8, 16, 32.
>
>--Robin
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Kayta

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT:  Filkers on h-costume?? (WAS: How I got involved)
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 20:06:08 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Fri, 9 Aug 2002, Glenda Robinson wrote:

> I'd heard the term Broadsides before, but never really associated it
> with our particular brand of scurrilous songs (I thought it was the
> act of publishing song words, rather than the writing of alternate
> verse)...

As far as I learned, it was a printing method -- on single sheets called
broadsides that were sold or distributed as a single page, unlike a book.
One of the popular uses for broadside publishing was for song lyrics,
which were then called "broadside ballads." I have not heard the term
"broadside" applied only to one subset of popular song, but this isn't my
specialty, so perhaps it was. (I also have not heard of the term applied
to the writing of such songs. I could go look it up if I had the energy.)

Other material was printed on broadsides, too -- political tracts,
religious material, probably ads for all I know.

--Robin

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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 21:44:23 -0400
Status: RO

--=====================_92228339==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 08:15 AM 8/8/02 -0600, you wrote:
>I never let that stop me.  I stick to comedy numbers (that need to be
>*performed* more than sung) and "character" songs where the
>quality of the singing isn't really a requirement (plus background
>noises and sound effects - the Enquirer's Song with me providing
>sound effects of poor torture victims in the bckground using voice,
>a penny and a baby bouncer was quite good fun...<G>

Ahhh... I can carry a tune when I sing softly, but they can't mic me well 
enough to boost my voice.  I'll gladly sing off-key with those who don't 
mind, but not in public... ok, not in public where you know it's me *weg*

>And you'd be surprized how much even the worst of voices can
>improve with practice when given the incentive of *foolishly*
>agreeing to record a duet with someone who *can* sing when the
>author of the song catches you by surprize and asks you to do it...

Nah... the more I practice, the worse I sound... really!  I'll manage a few 
bars on-key, and then it's back to the fingernails-on-chalkboard.  I even 
had singing lessons and the teacher told me, nicely, that there was nothing 
she could do.  Eh, I survived, and decided to write filk for others to have 
fun with, lol!


Victoria Wickens
Lady Victoria's Castle Closet
http://www.castlecloset.cc
Gallery: http://bluedragyn.net/~lvcc/castle-creations/


--=====================_92228339==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
At 08:15 AM 8/8/02 -0600, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>I never let that stop me.&nbsp; I
stick to comedy numbers (that need to be <br>
*performed* more than sung) and &quot;character&quot; songs where the
<br>
quality of the singing isn't really a requirement (plus background <br>
noises and sound effects - the Enquirer's Song with me providing <br>
sound effects of poor torture victims in the bckground using voice, 
<br>
a penny and a baby bouncer was quite good
fun...&lt;G&gt;</blockquote><br>
Ahhh... I can carry a tune when I sing softly, but they can't mic me well
enough to boost my voice.&nbsp; I'll gladly sing off-key with those who
don't mind, but not in public... ok, not in public where you know it's me
*weg*<br>
<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>And you'd be surprized how much
even the worst of voices can <br>
improve with practice when given the incentive of *foolishly* <br>
agreeing to record a duet with someone who *can* sing when the <br>
author of the song catches you by surprize and asks you to do it...
</blockquote><br>
Nah... the more I practice, the worse I sound... really!&nbsp; I'll
manage a few bars on-key, and then it's back to the
fingernails-on-chalkboard.&nbsp; I even had singing lessons and the
teacher told me, nicely, that there was nothing she could do.&nbsp; Eh, I
survived, and decided to write filk for others to have fun with,
lol!<br>
<br>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
Victoria Wickens<br>
Lady Victoria's Castle Closet<br>
http://www.castlecloset.cc<br>
<font size=4>Gallery: http://bluedragyn.net/~lvcc/castle-creations/<br>
<br>
</font></html>

--=====================_92228339==_.ALT--

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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 19:24:52 +0000
Status: RO

I like to embroider (split stitch mainly, and blackwork) and make the
occaisional accessory. I don't costume and don't want to--I would rather
be of financial benefit to my friends who do. :-)

I do take a lot of costuming classes though as I am interested in the
theory and have very much enjoyed the expertise of others.

					Arlys 

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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 19:46:51 +0000
Status: RO

A lot of broadsides were in fact political, and often satirical.

Music printing, btw, got started around 1490 or so. As more printed music
books became available to the ravenous public, the more music became
easier to swipe!

Thanks Robin! :-)


						Arlys
[good stuff snipped]

> Other material was printed on broadsides, too -- political tracts,
> religious material, probably ads for all I know.
> 
> --Robin


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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 19:46:51 +0000
Status: RO

A lot of broadsides were in fact political, and often satirical.

Music printing, btw, got started around 1490 or so. As more printed music
books became available to the ravenous public, the more music became
easier to swipe!

Thanks Robin! :-)


						Arlys
[good stuff snipped]

> Other material was printed on broadsides, too -- political tracts,
> religious material, probably ads for all I know.
> 
> --Robin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] interesting ebay corset
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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 22:20:39 -0500
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--------------070603080507000001030003
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I have no ideas about what or when it might be, but the original poster 
claimed it was way too short to be a corset.  I would ask, please, that 
no one make assumptions about it based on whether it would fit them.  I 
am *extremely* short-waisted, and until I was 28, that item of clothing 
would have fit me almost perfectly, all the way down to my waist - and I 
mean completely closed, too.  So it might be way too short for most of 
you, but not me.

Karen (who buys all her gloves at estate sales after old women pass on, 
because they're the only people with gloves small enough to fit me 
reasonably)

Marna Jean wrote:

> I have a theory- its part of an entertainers costume or perhaps fancy 
> dress costume-(I just got a new plate of fancy dress costumes for 1883 
> so I'm stuck on them at the moment) and I'm guessing late 19th century.
>
> MJ
>


--------------070603080507000001030003
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
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<html>
<head>
</head>
<body>
I have no ideas about what or when it might be, but the original poster claimed
it was way too short to be a corset. &nbsp;I would ask, please, that no one make
assumptions about it based on whether it would fit them. &nbsp;I am *extremely*
short-waisted, and until I was 28, that item of clothing would have fit me
almost perfectly, all the way down to my waist - and I mean completely closed,
too. &nbsp;So it might be way too short for most of you, but not me.<br>
<br>
Karen (who buys all her gloves at estate sales after old women pass on, because
they're the only people with gloves small enough to fit me reasonably)<br>
<br>
Marna Jean wrote:<br>
<blockquote type="cite" cite="mid:000b01c23f1f$93e9bbe0$6ea0f7c6@marnadav">
  <meta content="MSHTML 5.00.2919.6307" name="GENERATOR">
  <div><font face="Times New Roman">I have a theory- its part of an entertainers
 costume or perhaps fancy dress costume-(I just got a new plate of fancy
dress  costumes for 1883 so I'm stuck on them at the moment) and I'm guessing
late 19th  century.</font></div>
  <div><font face="Times New Roman">MJ</font></div>
  </blockquote>
  <br>
  </body>
  </html>

--------------070603080507000001030003--

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Aug  8 23:41:54 2002
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 23:23:11 EDT
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Greetings,

Please accept my apology if this an inappropriate use of the list.....

I am actually going to start going to SCA events instead of reading about 
them and need to find someone who would be interested in making some Norman 
style garb (appropriate for c.1200-1250)some time in the near future. I can 
supply wool and linen fabrics, I probably need some guidance about 
appropriate trims, etc., but I'd rather pay somebody who knows what they're 
doing  and don't have the time right now to learn to do it properly myself. 
I'd also rather use better materials and just skip the "starter garb" stage 
if possible and have a finished product I'd be happy to use later as 
well....Please e-mail me off the list if you like and let me know if you're 
interested, what your price would be, etc.

Thanks,

Gervase

--part1_d4.1b740838.2a848f9f_boundary
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Bookman Old Style" LANG="0">Greetings,<BR>
<BR>
Please accept my apology if this an inappropriate use of the list.....<BR>
<BR>
I am actually going to start going to SCA events instead of reading about them and need to find someone who would be interested in making some Norman style garb (appropriate for c.1200-1250)some time in the near future. I can supply wool and linen fabrics, I probably need some guidance about appropriate trims, etc., but I'd rather pay somebody who knows what they're doing&nbsp; and don't have the time right now to learn to do it properly myself. I'd also rather use better materials and just skip the "starter garb" stage if possible and have a finished product I'd be happy to use later as well....Please e-mail me off the list if you like and let me know if you're interested, what your price would be, etc.<BR>
<BR>
Thanks,<BR>
<BR>
Gervase</FONT></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Aug  8 23:42:08 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Bodice question... year only matters a bit
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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 23:20:19 -0400
Status: RO

Ok.. so the one I'm working on is Tudor... but the same concepts apply 
in quite a few periods....

I'm working on (I *thought* I was finishing it till I tried it on 
earlier this week...) a lower-class, Henry VIII period dress... well, 
the outer layer at least.  When I've made an "Irish gown", or more 
modern jumperish type dresses, the placement of the seam at the side of 
the gown has helped with the, um... bulge problem at the breast level on 
the side... yeah, I'm a bit overweight... and have had a couple of 
kids... so I don't know if there's any way of controling that odd look 
short of making a boned or corded underbodice or corset that I'm having 
with this new bodice with the seams (and I did include a line of boning 
there, anticipating a possible problem) a bit more to the back of the 
bodice portion.

The suggestion was that I maybe add a couple of strips of Rigeline (sp?) 
to the inside of the bodice (and remember where the problem occured to 
correct before getting this far next time).  But I'm having trouble 
figuring out how best to place them to best effect.

So... it's a front lacing bodice, with that wonderful line that is 
 fashionable from Henry's time up through colonial America's... or it 
should be.  Currently has (not quite steel strength, but close to it 
(compared to those in a corset I made last year).. a bit thicker... 
boning running up both sides of the opening, and at the side seams (this 
is (originally at least) off Margo's Elizabethian pattern... with minor 
adjustments for period and specific body).

Any ideas of how to place some additional stays... preferably just the 
light, easy to play with, not so noticable under a layer of canvas and 
layer of medium-weight linen, Rigeline?  Center bottom out to top of the 
side boning? couple up and down somewhere? how many, or any other 
suggestions would all be welcome.  Sticking with something that 
lightweight and easily sewable would keep me from having to put wierd 
channels on the inside, and/or taking the bodice off the bottom again ( 
I really don't want to re-stitch that if I can help it).

TIA,
-Elisabeth  (*trying* to finish by Saturday... and have a good 
chance...if I don't have to rip apart the bodice again)

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Aug  9 01:17:32 2002
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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
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cc: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] corset stays
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 13:15:59 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

Farthingales (http://www.farthingales.on.ca) sells a wide variety of
corset boning.

Drea



On Tue, 6 Aug 2002, P. A. Stonnell wrote:

> Help!
> 
> The only place that we know of in our local area (Vancouver, BC, Canada)
> that carries metal corset stays has become very unreliable.  Once in a 
> while you can go in and get some, but that is happening less and less.
> 
> Can the good members of this list recommend a reliable mailorder source?
> Is there somewhere in Canada (so we don't have to deal with duty and customs)?
> 
> Thank you
> 
> Peggy Stonnell
> 
> SCA - HL Isobel fitz Gilbert, JdL, GdS, OLC
>       Mistress of Arts, Barony of Lions Gate
> 
> English Village Society, Village of Stowbrook - Elizabeth Cook
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] corset stays
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 13:15:59 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

Farthingales (http://www.farthingales.on.ca) sells a wide variety of
corset boning.

Drea



On Tue, 6 Aug 2002, P. A. Stonnell wrote:

> Help!
> 
> The only place that we know of in our local area (Vancouver, BC, Canada)
> that carries metal corset stays has become very unreliable.  Once in a 
> while you can go in and get some, but that is happening less and less.
> 
> Can the good members of this list recommend a reliable mailorder source?
> Is there somewhere in Canada (so we don't have to deal with duty and customs)?
> 
> Thank you
> 
> Peggy Stonnell
> 
> SCA - HL Isobel fitz Gilbert, JdL, GdS, OLC
>       Mistress of Arts, Barony of Lions Gate
> 
> English Village Society, Village of Stowbrook - Elizabeth Cook
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothes in 50 states
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 13:36:10 -0400
Status: RO

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Yes, that's Salisbury!  And we still have trains every hour, going by my =
house and sometimes stopping on my road for 20-40 minutes at a stretch =
blocking traffic.  But I love small towns, and wouldn't leave it.  You =
just have to work around things.  Like my neighbors who were target =
shooting shotguns for 3 hours on Sunday....

I can't even comprehend that logistical nightmare....but overtime is =
good....

Apollonia
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: AlbertCat@aol.com=20
  To: h-costume@indra.com=20
  Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2002 1:01 PM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothes in 50 states


  In a message dated 8/6/2002 12:29:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time, =
apollonia@bellsouth.net writes:=20



    The town I live in, Salisbury


  We filmed the miniseries "Having our Say," the story of the Delaney =
[sp] Sisters.....and their fight and triumph over prejudice.... we =
filmed it ironically, at Stonewall Jackson school. That's near you, no? =
Isn't there a railroad museum near you. We did the period departure and =
arrival scenes there.=20
  What a nightmare that was. The ENTIRE cast worked that day plus a lot =
of extras. We filmed the little girls departing in 1895 in the morning. =
Changed everybody and filmed the young ladies departing in 1914. Changed =
everybody again and filmed the older ladies departing in 1927. Then that =
night we did it all again but the arrivals. There had to be continuity =
on the girls and family and extras in the trains, But the extras on the =
platform had to change every time. A logistical nightmare.WHAT A DAY =
THAT WAS!=20

  I made tons in overtime and meal penalties though.=20

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.3315.2870" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#800080 face=3D"Book Antiqua"><EM>Yes, that's =
Salisbury!&nbsp;=20
And we still have trains every hour, going by my house and sometimes =
stopping on=20
my road for 20-40 minutes at a stretch blocking traffic.&nbsp; But I =
love small=20
towns, and wouldn't leave it.&nbsp; You just have to work around =
things.&nbsp;=20
Like my neighbors who were target shooting shotguns for 3 hours on=20
Sunday....</EM></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#800080 face=3D"Book Antiqua"><EM>I can't even =
comprehend that=20
logistical nightmare....but overtime is good....</EM></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#800080 face=3D"Book =
Antiqua"><EM>Apollonia</EM></FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #800080 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A href=3D"mailto:AlbertCat@aol.com"=20
  title=3DAlbertCat@aol.com>AlbertCat@aol.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com"=20
  title=3Dh-costume@indra.com>h-costume@indra.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, August 06, 2002 =
1:01=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [h-cost] clothes =
in 50=20
  states</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT size=3D3>In a =
message dated=20
  8/6/2002 12:29:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time, <A=20
  href=3D"mailto:apollonia@bellsouth.net">apollonia@bellsouth.net</A> =
writes:=20
  <BR><BR></FONT><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial lang=3D0 size=3D2=20
  FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><BR>
  <BLOCKQUOTE=20
  style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px"=20
  TYPE=3D"CITE">The town I live in, Salisbury</FONT><FONT =
color=3D#000000=20
    face=3DArial lang=3D0 size=3D3 =
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"></BLOCKQUOTE><BR><BR>We filmed the=20
  miniseries "Having our Say," the story of the Delaney [sp] =
Sisters.....and=20
  their fight and triumph over prejudice.... we filmed it ironically, at =

  Stonewall Jackson school. That's near you, no? Isn't there a railroad =
museum=20
  near you. We did the period departure and arrival scenes there. =
<BR>What a=20
  nightmare that was. The ENTIRE cast worked that day plus a lot of =
extras. We=20
  filmed the little girls departing in 1895 in the morning. Changed =
everybody=20
  and filmed the young ladies departing in 1914. Changed everybody again =
and=20
  filmed the older ladies departing in 1927. Then that night we did it =
all again=20
  but the arrivals. There had to be continuity on the girls and family =
and=20
  extras in the trains, But the extras on the platform had to change =
every time.=20
  A logistical nightmare.WHAT A DAY THAT WAS! <BR><BR>I made tons in =
overtime=20
  and meal penalties though.</FONT> </FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothes in 50 states
To: h-costume@indra.com
In-Reply-To: <no.id> from "Apollonia Margherita" at Aug 06, 2002 01:18:15 PM
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 10:41:25 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

hey waittaminnit.

the triangle is raleigh, durham, and chapel hill!

(I was born in chapel hill, so I gotta defend my turf there)

at least these days you can buy fabric online.  I remember my horror trying
to get costuming supplies at Piece Goods when I was a kid.  The wonderfully
conservative ladies working there would gasp with horror when I
asked for ANY sheet lace in black.    Guess I might as well have declared
myself a satanist - since i wanted black cloth!

.heather.


> You see more sophistication in the bigger cities.  Charlotte has a lot of
> people who moved there for the banking industry.  Greensboro has a lot of
> people who have moved up in the world, from tank tops to dress shirts.  I
> think the Triangle (Raliegh, Durham, and Cary) have the best clothes.  My
> theory is that most of them are from somewhere else, having moved here a few
> years ago for the job market.
> 
> And the shotguns are, tilted rakishly to the left, cocked and ready to go.
> :)
> 
> Apollonia
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: AlbertCat@aol.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2002 12:50 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothes in 50 states
> 
> 
> Now why exclude Greensboro and Charlotte? And is the shot gun worn rakishly
> tilted to the left, or straight on? Durham and the Research Triangle are the
> most "Progressive". A phenomenon that I'm sure is also true of Europe, is
> that when you leave the city limits, the close change REAL fast to rural
> incarnations.
> I don't mean to sound prejudice but Black people down here seem to have the
> most fun with their clothes. I've the BEST outfits!
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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> 

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your favourite sewing/needlework?
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 14:52:19 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote: > Ooooh....good one.  My
favorite parts are probably the research,
> planning and the initial stages (where I'm choosing among fabrics and
> buttons and trims in my fabric stash)....

I agree, the planning is the best! this is why I love commisiioning my
costumes, I get all the fun and excitement choosing it but don't have to
actually make them. hehe.

> c. stuff.  And I kinda enjoy hand-rolled hems on veils and such.

rrrreally? I hate it, I am sooo bad at rolling hems! *L* I really think we
should to a 'round-robin' in making costumes, with robin to do the thinking
beforehand, margo to make the patterns, SOMEone to actually make the garment
(waits for that one) me making the accessories, you rolling hems and making the
embellishments. *G*

> My least-favorite sewing would have to be the really boring utilitarian
> cr@p like endless hems, or hand-sewing a bodice lining to a curved
> armhole.  

I really like the later, there is something so satisfying about sewing in teh
lining. :-) I don't know why. I hate buttons. BUTTONS! BAH! The are right
behind the horror of horrors called buttonholes, I even can't stand machining
them. It took me a whole day to do the buttonholes on ben's waistcoat.

And zippers (yucko!) on modern stuff.

I agree!
Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renaissance Faires in the U.S.
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 14:54:40 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote: > You guys in the UK can
actually *get* real whalebone? I think it's a
> forbidden import here in the US...

No dear, no no, it is forbidden everywhere I have ever lived too. I think
somehow it must have been a misunderstanding. Try to import whalebone here and
whooops, off you go into Her Majesty's locked up care. *L* or so.

if I wanted to do a corset or pair of
> bodies with whalebone, I'd have to use the fake stuff (I hear there are
> some reasonable plastic substitutes, but I haven't pursued them).

yes, wissner in germany. http://www.wissner.de

> it's just as much fun.  I'm having a hell of a time finding any useful
> wools, though.....*sigh*.....

It seems a similar problem in most places, I guess we arejust plain lucky here
in England and all the re-enactors suppliers and markets help.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 14:50:19 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

> Also, in England you are _NOT_ allowed to come in costume to a
> re-enactment event, only invited and participating re-enactment
> groups and societies. All vistitors must be dressed mundanely. 

Not all of them, Nicole.  Several of the 15th century ones I do, the 
public can come in dressed however they want... some do in 
costume.  Some events seem to attract more costumed public 
than others.

It's only organizations like stuck up old English Heretics who don't 
let non-participants in if they're in costume....<g>


Teddy
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: 'perfect elizabethan' was Re: [h-cost] Renaissance Faires in the U.S.
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 15:22:38 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote: >  
> Quote for costumes? Now that's a new one, so you vary the fee according to what
> you wear? Interesting concept, I guess that's why we always just struggle
> around the insurance-payment mark, we only do what looks like fun and some of
> the fun things are not paid at all but fun-fun. *L*

To be honest I don't know how the fee scale is worked out.  I know some events are done more for
love and for sponsers who are not so flush with cash.  But for people like the big charities, if
they want us to do high Elizabethan then the group cannot afford to stump up the cash, so that
leaves the sponsor.  Unfortunately none have yet decided to go for it.

Most of what we do is demonstrations for the public, which involves alot of answering questions. 
The hardest is the living history for school children where you have a group of 15 or so and you
have to talk to them for 20 minutes.  The trouble is we have ten groups a day.  That kind of event
costs alot, but then it really just gets passed onto the schools, plus a bit.

> > Every so often I fancy doing early Georgian, just for the embroidery. 
> > However the need for a wig
> > usually puts me off.  
> 
> Why? It's not a problem at all to wear a wig. A good wig feels just like a hat
> and no worse. It really isn't bad. *S*

I'll take your word for it!

=====
Rachel

Tudor Bibliography
http://website.lineone.net/~reholliday/Tudor/

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kirby Hall - History in Action
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 16:01:41 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote: > 

> Tom and I have a *huge* tent (12 ft by 22ft) and haven't begun to 
> furnish it properly yet - so there' lotsd of space and just the two of 
> us.
> 
> We'll have our little stove too and tea and cofffee (instant) supplies 
> (though not enough suitable cups, so bring your own) so we could 
> host it if you like.

Uhm, I already went shopping and notified my members. I think you lag a little
behind my dear. :-)
We have an open shelter which is furnished as a tavern, with tables and benches
and stools and chairs, bottles and tankards and mugs and glasses, all authentic
for the period. well, ours anyway, hehe.
'come and meet at the sign of the bushel and tankard'. *G*
If you rather we meet at yours we can do that too of course.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Filkers on h-costume?? (WAS: How I got involved)
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 08:07:43 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

I confess...I'm a filker too.

costumer, herald, and filker, no wonder my friends
*twitch*!

But, I do not sing in the filkish key (which is
jokingly referred to as "off"), so I'm at least safe
from boots and other thrown objects when I stay up
late and sing at events.

Angharad

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kirby Hall - History in Action
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 15:52:03 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote: > 

> Teddy
> (still trying to finish new yellow and green parti-coloured hose and a 
> red houpellande for Kirby - and to find time to make something with 
> a red "H" on it so other h-costumers will be able to spot it!)

I was thinking about the latter too, but A) Ijust couldn't for he life of me
think of any authentic excuse for an H on my bosom and B) there is no one else
in as silly a head dress as my fontange! *LOL*

Nicole - going to look out for yellow-green-red-medieval with a possible H

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Filkers on h-costume?? (WAS: How I got involved)
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 11:40:51 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Wed, 7 Aug 2002, Margo Anderson wrote:

> ...based on the results of the time my mother planted TWELVE zucchini
> plants for a family of five.

Makes sense to me. If I plant 12 of something, odds are that one might
survive. I wouldn't mind some zucchini. I make some killer zucchini bread.

This is my year to kill tomatoes, though. (Last year was my year to kill
basil.) Only the sage and thyme survive, as they are desert plants and
hard even for me to kill.

--Robin, whose efforts are better spent sewing, and it's cooler inside
anyway

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From: "P. A. Stonnell" <hlisobel@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: 'perfect elizabethan' was Re: [h-cost] Renaissance Faires in the
 U.S.
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 09:21:54 -0700
Status: RO

At 09:24 AM 07/08/02 +0100, Rachel wrote:
<snip> --- N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote: > 
 
>> Lovely, that sounds yummy. I like blackwork, such a shame it isn't used
in the
>> period I do anymore.
>
>It's one of my favourite types of embroidery, so stylish.  The main
problem with it is having to
>carry the patterns round in your head as trying to copy directly from a
book never looks right.
>

Why not make an exampler to carry in your workbasket? Unlike to-days
"samplers", an exampler was
just a length of cloth with different patterns worked on it in no
particalar order. Some times 
just enough of a pattern was worked to enable the needleworker to be able
to copy it at a latter
date. Roll it up and put it in with your threads.  

Peggy 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pleats (was: What's your favorite...)
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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 10:43:49 -0700
Status: RO

Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
Large Snip
 
> This has never failed me, and I've never had to do any math except count
> my marks -- 2, 4, 8, 16, 32.
> 
> --Robin
> 
No Robin, that is the way I do pleats as well, and I think that is how
they were done in period.  You don't find the math way of doing pleats
until you get to the 1950's. 

That lovely "There-is-only-one-way-to-do-everything" period.  Forget the
lawyers shoot the home Ed teachers.  I spend more time retraining people
to think for themselves, not just do what they have been taught.

Sorry sore point with me.

Stephen
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From: "Cabbage Rose" <cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Filking
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 10:08:19 -0700
Status: RO

Can you kind folks define "filking' for those of us on list who are guessing
as to it's meaning?

I can't stand it anymore, I need to know.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"And thus I clothe my naked villany
 With odd old ends stoln' forth of holy writ,
 And seem a saint when most I play the devil"
Richard III, I, iii - W. Shakespeare


----- Original Message -----
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2002 1:30 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Forehead cloths in the 17th Century


> Helen wrote:
>
> >Are you going to play "Parson's Farewell"?  It's mine and my eldest
> >daughter's fave Playford tune and it cheered up our awful rainy Sunday
last
> >KH.  Do you ever do "Cuckolds All in a Row"?
>
> Both tunes are in our repertoire, but I don't think either is in the
programmes for this weekend. If you come along we'll have to see what we can
do!
>
>
>
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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From: "Sarah Lorraine" <sarah@elizabethanlady.com>
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Subject: Re: 'perfect elizabethan' was Re: [h-cost] Renaissance Faires in the U.S.
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 13:08:17 -0400
Status: RO


> > I completely agree with you.  Personally speaking I couldn't use 
them either,
> > but the Elizabethans
> > did. 
> 
> Yes... but taht does mean tyhat we have changed and evolved in this 
respect (if
> in others? Not too sure..) and that we don't have to use it. I have 
no problems
> using artificial whalebone, this being the ONLY man-made non period
> fibre/material that I don't mind being used, just because we have 
understood
> now hopefully, that slaughtering whales is not a good thing.

Couldn't agree more, but there is apparently a market for used 
whalebone.  Not too many weeks ago it was brought to my attention that 
someone was offering several lengths of the real stuff on ebay, 
probably salvaged from a 19th century corset (they were curved in such 
a way that suggested a mid-to-late 19th century corset).  So it is 
possible to get "antique" whalebone, much as it's possible to still 
find antique ivory (elephant and walrus) on the market.  For some 
people that would be enough of an excuse to use it in a costume and for 
others it would still be unconscionable.  

Sarah
http://www.elizabethanlady.com
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From: "Mary Temple" <noxcat@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your favourite sewing/needlework?
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 17:12:54 +0000
Status: RO

I like the absolute beginning - where I'm looking at the fabric and 
imagining everything I could do with it. The next step - the point after the 
decision on WHAT to do- where I'm figuring out HOW to do it and in what 
order - that's fun too. The actual construction part is rather boring for 
me. The fittings -those are fun because I can see it coming together. And 
the end result - the little thrill of "I made this! I like the way it turned 
out!" that's really nice.

(I REALLY need to get pics of my husband in his Japanese - that's one I'm 
really happy with - the phrase "tickled pink" comes to mind.)

Mary/Katerine

>I was just wondering (while stitching the last bits on the blasted redcoat)
>what people like best in making costumes. I actually don't like making the
>costumes themselves, I can't even stand it, that's why I always start so 
>late.
>I don't even particularly like sewing. *laughs*



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your favourite sewing/needlework?
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 13:27:23 -0400
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> I was just wondering (while stitching the last bits on the blasted 
redcoat)
> what people like best in making costumes. I actually don't like 
making the
> costumes themselves, I can't even stand it, that's why I always start 
so late.
> I don't even particularly like sewing. *laughs*

Hahahahaha!  That's pretty much the same way I feel.  Well, actually, I 
do enjoy sewing.  I just have a love-hate relationship with it, because 
by nature I'm rather short on patience and attention, but I'm also 
stubborn as all get-out and I hate having unfinished projects lying 
around, and I tend to be rather obsessive.  So I bounce back and forth 
between being so passionately consumed by the process of costuming to 
the point of forgetting to eat, shower, answer the call of nature, etc. 
and then spending a fair amount of time screaming and yelling and 
cursing like a sailor at a heap of indiferent fabric.  And people 
always are quick to insist that I should do this for a living... Let me 
just say to anyone out there reading this who makes costumes for a 
living that I have nothing but admiration for you.  :)

> What does everone else like best/worst in making costumes?

Oh, topping my list of things that are like pulling teeth would have to 
be pleating skirts.  I *hate* pleating skirts.  I love cartridge 
pleating because it's a no-brainer, but any kind of pleat that requires 
me to accuritely calculate the ratio of fabric per pleat per inches in 
the waist measurement makes me insane!  Second on that list would have 
to be collars... I'm currently working on a doublet bodice that has a 
slightly different style of open collar than normal and I'm stuck at 
the point right now where I'm having to get creative with adjusting the 
side seams to make it open correctly.  :P

On the list of things that I love to do would have to be corsets.  I 
can whip out a corset in under an hour (not factoring in handsewing the 
binding which can take me a good 2 hours or so after that) if it's 
using metal or plastic boning.  It takes a bit longer for reeds, but 
I'm also not handsewing my boning channels.  Admittedly, I'm curious to 
find out if it would be as horrible as I've been imaginging it to 
handsew an entire corset.  I suppose I'll find out soon enough as I 
won't be able to take my sewing machine with me when I go to University 
next month... I like making hats, too, but I'm not spectacular at it 
yet.  

Sarah
http://www.elizabethanlady.com
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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 00:18:20 -0500 (CDT)
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On Wed, 7 Aug 2002, [iso-8859-1] N Kipar wrote:

> I really think we should to a 'round-robin' in making costumes, with
> robin to do the thinking beforehand, margo to make the patterns,
> SOMEone to actually make the garment (waits for that one) me making
> the accessories, you rolling hems and making the embellishments. *G*

OK, I'm in! But who gets to wear it? ;-)

--Robin

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On Tue, 6 Aug 2002, Heather Meadows wrote:

> at least these days you can buy fabric online.  I remember my horror
> trying to get costuming supplies at Piece Goods when I was a kid.  
> The wonderfully conservative ladies working there would gasp with
> horror when I asked for ANY sheet lace in black.  Guess I might as
> well have declared myself a satanist - since i wanted black cloth!

Especially at Piece Goods. As I recall, that chain had bags printed with
crosses and Bible verses on them. (That was in the early 1980s, in
Virginia.)

--Robin

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In a message dated 8/9/2002 12:11:45 AM Central Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> bikkies 

Please explain what this is?
Thanks,
Kelly
m311@aol.com

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 8/9/2002 12:11:45 AM Central Daylight Time, h-costume-request@indra.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">bikkies </BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Please explain what this is?<BR>
Thanks,<BR>
Kelly<BR>
m311@aol.com</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] Hairstyle help!
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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 01:08:24 -0400
Status: RO

It is almost time to be Cyber Cindy again!  I am going to two balls, August
17 & 19.  I am needing help with hairstyles and your suggestions would be
appreciated.  I have red waist length straight hair with bands.  Please,
please come up with something... Katie (my daughter) is dying to start
working on my hair.  So I need pictures to show her.

Ball Gown #1:
1950s Modes Royal gown.  Very full bouffant gown.  This gown is being made
by a NYC designer and is peach and gold with lots of tulle.  Pattern can be
seen at http://www.myfashionvault.com/modesroyale.htm .  It is the last
pattern and is red.

Ball Gown #2:
>From a 1920 handkerchief hem gown, floor length.  The fabric is burgundy
silk. This pattern can be seen at  http://www.silkpoppy.com/patternframe.htm
pattern #Mc-5941.  And for those who have been following the making of this
dress... I have almost finished.  I am down to finishing the seams and
hemming.  YIPPEE!!!  Amazing what you can do with a slipped disk in your
neck!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your favourite sewing/needlework?
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 22:52:48 -0700
Status: RO


> > c. stuff.  And I kinda enjoy hand-rolled hems on veils and such.
> 
> rrrreally? I hate it, I am sooo bad at rolling hems! *L* I really
> think we should to a 'round-robin' in making costumes, with robin to
> do the thinking beforehand, margo to make the patterns, SOMEone to
> actually make the garment (waits for that one) me making the
> accessories, you rolling hems and making the embellishments. *G*

I think that how difficult rolled hems is depends on your method. I 
fold the fabric down a tiny amount and take stitches such that 
when I pull the thread after an inch or so the fabric rolls itself. It 
goes fairly quickly. (Which is why I was able to finish my posh 
frock with its 200+" of rolled hem in a reasonably short period of 
time.)

> And zippers (yucko!) on modern stuff.

Eeeyew! I try to find some way out of them. (My most recent "posh 
frock" had hook and eyes. My excuse is that the tightness of the 
bodice would not hold well with a zipper and the light weight of the 
skirt would be too little for the zipper. So I went with tape for the 
upper part and individuals for the lower part so that I didn't have the 
weight even of the H&E tape.)


Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 23:01:13 -0700
Status: RO

Penny,

For the twenties style, put your hair in a nice neat but not too tight bun
at the nape of your neck. Then get a tiara or other headband type decoration
that will sit just along the hairline.  You'll be the belle of the ball and
perfectly period.  If the description isn't ringing bells, I may be able to
find a graphic of what I'm describing.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design
"If we shadows have offended, think but this,
 and all is mended,
That you have but slumbered here,
 while these visions did appear."
A Midsummer Night's Dream; V, ii - W. Shakespeare


----- Original Message -----
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 08, 2002 10:08 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Hairstyle help!


> It is almost time to be Cyber Cindy again!  I am going to two balls,
August
> 17 & 19.  I am needing help with hairstyles and your suggestions would be
> appreciated.  I have red waist length straight hair with bands.  Please,
> please come up with something... Katie (my daughter) is dying to start
> working on my hair.  So I need pictures to show her.
>
> Ball Gown #1:
> 1950s Modes Royal gown.  Very full bouffant gown.  This gown is being made
> by a NYC designer and is peach and gold with lots of tulle.  Pattern can
be
> seen at http://www.myfashionvault.com/modesroyale.htm .  It is the last
> pattern and is red.
>
> Ball Gown #2:
> >From a 1920 handkerchief hem gown, floor length.  The fabric is burgundy
> silk. This pattern can be seen at
http://www.silkpoppy.com/patternframe.htm
> pattern #Mc-5941.  And for those who have been following the making of
this
> dress... I have almost finished.  I am down to finishing the seams and
> hemming.  YIPPEE!!!  Amazing what you can do with a slipped disk in your
> neck!
>
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 23:05:42 -0700
Status: RO


I forgot, zippers bite the worst!  In theater zippers need to be replaced a
LOT and I HATE them!

Tedious, ugly, unrewarding work, their nasty little teeth grinning up at you
evilly.. okay, maybe not evil, but they are really yucko.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"What fates impose, that men must needs abide; It boots not to resist both
wind and tide."
King Henry VI, Part III, IV, iii - W. Shakespeare



> And zippers (yucko!) on modern stuff.
>
> I agree!
> Nicole
>
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
> Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: marquis@kipar.org
>
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 23:07:50 -0700
Status: RO

 > I really think we should to a 'round-robin' in making costumes, with
> > robin to do the thinking beforehand, margo to make the patterns,
> > SOMEone to actually make the garment (waits for that one) me making
> > the accessories, you rolling hems and making the embellishments. *G*
> 
> OK, I'm in! But who gets to wear it? ;-)
> 
> --Robin
> 

Why, Penny of course!  ( I'm in for the beadwork portion!)

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes 
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"Do you not know I am a woman?.  When I think, I must speak."
As You Like It; III, ii - W. Shakespeare


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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 16:25:41 +1000
Status: RO

> > bikkies 
> 
> Please explain what this is?
> Thanks,
> Kelly

short for biscuits (aka in the US as cookies).

Glenda.
 

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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 10:05:29 +0200 (CEST)
Status: RO

Ron wrote:
>However, it the United States it is illegal in most cases to own the 
>parts of any endangered species, regardless of how the creature died, 
>unless the item can be proven to exist prior to the ban.

Does that mean that the US classifies "whale" as being one species? 
Sounds strange to me; by that loigc owning a part of a crow should be 
illegal as well because some types of eagle are endangered.

Ingrid

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your favourite sewing/needlework?
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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 09:14:33 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

For me the most enjoyable part is the actual stitching.  I find hand sewing and embroidery
extremely relaxing.  Consequently I usually have two or three pieces on the go at anyone time, at
the moment its four with a doublet, petticoat, blackwork long cushion and a "modern" needlecase. 
And then I am planning two new shifts for myself for next year.

The part I hate the most is drafting the patterns.  It always seems to take forever and you go
round and round and round, and until you make it up you are never quite sure if it has worked. 
Perhaps it's the scientist in me, but I like to get things right from the start, and pattern
drafting is not what you would call an exact science.

I enjoy the research, not so much for clothing but for the embroidery.  Mainly becuase it is an
excuse to drool over wonderful embroideries and say one day I'll do that.  I guess it is the dream
that I like the most.

Rachel

=====
Rachel

Tudor Bibliography
http://website.lineone.net/~reholliday/Tudor/

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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 01:37:19 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Ingrid wrote:
> Ron wrote:
> >However, it the United States it is illegal in most cases to own the 
> >parts of any endangered species, regardless of how the creature died, 
> >unless the item can be proven to exist prior to the ban.
> 
> Does that mean that the US classifies "whale" as being one species? 
> Sounds strange to me; by that loigc owning a part of a crow should be 
> illegal as well because some types of eagle are endangered.

Baleen whales are protected species here.  All of them.
Crows and other migratory birds also fall under those same laws (believe
me, they're spelled out in tedious length in the actual text).  So even
though the damn ravens live outside my house and love to sit on the light
post and make a racket, I can't collect their feathers.  At least not if
I'm going to let anyone else see 'em.  

Even turkey vultures are classed as migratory birds here, even though all
they do is move from one end of the state to the other.  

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 01:28:12 -0700
Status: RO

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And of course, the broadsides that the pedlers sold around the
countryside and in villages were mostly just lyrics, not the music.
People had a knowledge of many tunes in their heads - they would just
use the one most aposite for the lyrics (or the songsheet would suggest
a tune). Hence the glorified mish-mash that english folksong became,
with different tunes and stories being associated in different ways
across the country.

Freyalyn



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<-----Original Message----->
> 
> From: Cynthia J Ley
> Sent: 8/9/2002 3:50:51 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Cc: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Filkers on h-costume?? (WAS: How I got
involved)
> 
> A lot of broadsides were in fact political, and often satirical.
> 
> Music printing, btw, got started around 1490 or so. As more printed
music
> books became available to the ravenous public, the more music became
> easier to swipe!
> 
> Thanks Robin! :-)
> 
> 
> Arlys
> [good stuff snipped]
> 
> Other material was printed on broadsides, too -- political tracts,
> religious material, probably ads for all I know.
> 
> --Robin
> 
> 
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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And of course, the broadsides that the pedlers sold around the countryside and in villages were mostly just lyrics, not the music.  People had a knowledge of many tunes in their heads - they would just use the one most aposite for the lyrics (or the songsheet would suggest a tune).  Hence the glorified mish-mash that english folksong became, with different tunes and stories being associated in different ways across the country.<br>
<br>
Freyalyn<br>
<br>

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<BR><font face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2" style="font-size:13.5px">_______________________________________________________________<BR>Sign up for <A HREF="http://s.ivillage.com/rd/16705">FREE iVillage newsletters</A>.<BR>From health and pregnancy to shopping and relationships, iVillage<BR>has the scoop on what matters most to you.

</font><br><br><-----Original Message-----><br>
>  <br>
> From: Cynthia J Ley<br>
> Sent: 8/9/2002 3:50:51 AM<br>
> To: h-costume@indra.com<br>
> Cc: h-costume@indra.com<br>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT:  Filkers on h-costume?? (WAS: How I got involved)<br>
> <br>
> A lot of broadsides were in fact political, and often satirical.<br>
> <br>
> Music printing, btw, got started around 1490 or so. As more printed music<br>
> books became available to the ravenous public, the more music became<br>
> easier to swipe!<br>
> <br>
> Thanks Robin! :-)<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> 						Arlys<br>
> [good stuff snipped]<br>
> <br>
> Other material was printed on broadsides, too -- political tracts,<br>
> religious material, probably ads for all I know.<br>
> <br>
> --Robin<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> ________________________________________________________________<br>
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!<br>
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!<br>
> Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:<br>
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.<br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> h-costume mailing list<br>
> h-costume@mail.indra.com<br>
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<br>
> <br>

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Thread-Topic: [h-cost] interesting ebay corset
From: "freyalyn" <freyalyn@ivillage.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] interesting ebay corset
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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 01:32:13 -0700
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This brings up the point that it's very easy to forget how much smaller
people can be in the past. Some of the original costumes in the V&A and
other collections almost look children sized compared to us modern,
well-fed people.



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<-----Original Message----->
> 
> From: Karen Heim
> Sent: 8/9/2002 6:24:39 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] interesting ebay corset
> 
> I have no ideas about what or when it might be, but the original
poster claimedit was way too short 
> to be a corset. I would ask, please, that no one makeassumptions about
it based on whether it would 
> fit them. I am *extremely*short-waisted, and until I was 28, that item
of clothing would have fit 
> mealmost perfectly, all the way down to my waist - and I mean
completely closed,too. So it might be 
> way too short for most of you, but not me.
> 
> Karen (who buys all her gloves at estate sales after old women pass
on, becausethey're the only 
> people with gloves small enough to fit me reasonably)
> 
> Marna Jean wrote:
> 
> I have a theory- its part of an entertainers costume or perhaps fancy
dress costume-(I just got a 
> new plate of fancydress costumes for 1883 so I'm stuck on them at the
moment) and I'm guessinglate 
> 19th century.
> 
> MJ
> 
> 


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This brings up the point that it's very easy to forget how much smaller people can be in the past.  Some of the original costumes in the V&A and other collections almost look children sized compared to us modern, well-fed people.<br>
<br>

</BODY></HTML>
<BR><font face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2" style="font-size:13.5px">_______________________________________________________________<BR>Sign up for <A HREF="http://s.ivillage.com/rd/16705">FREE iVillage newsletters</A>.<BR>From health and pregnancy to shopping and relationships, iVillage<BR>has the scoop on what matters most to you.

</font><br><br><-----Original Message-----><br>
>  <br>
> From: Karen Heim<br>
> Sent: 8/9/2002 6:24:39 AM<br>
> To: h-costume@indra.com<br>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] interesting ebay corset<br>
> <br>
> I have no ideas about what or when it might be, but the original poster claimedit was way too short <br>
> to be a corset.  I would ask, please, that no one makeassumptions about it based on whether it would <br>
> fit them.  I am *extremely*short-waisted, and until I was 28, that item of clothing would have fit <br>
> mealmost perfectly, all the way down to my waist - and I mean completely closed,too.  So it might be <br>
> way too short for most of you, but not me.<br>
> <br>
> Karen (who buys all her gloves at estate sales after old women pass on, becausethey're the only <br>
> people with gloves small enough to fit me reasonably)<br>
> <br>
> Marna Jean wrote:<br>
>   <br>
> I have a theory- its part of an entertainers costume or perhaps fancy dress costume-(I just got a <br>
> new plate of fancydress costumes for 1883 so I'm stuck on them at the moment) and I'm guessinglate <br>
> 19th century.<br>
>  <br>
> MJ<br>
>   <br>
> <br>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Aug  9 05:05:36 2002
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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 20:55:08 +1200
Status: RO

> Ron wrote:
> >However, it the United States it is illegal in most cases to own the
> >parts of any endangered species, regardless of how the creature died,
> >unless the item can be proven to exist prior to the ban.
>
> Does that mean that the US classifies "whale" as being one species?
> Sounds strange to me; by that loigc owning a part of a crow should be
> illegal as well because some types of eagle are endangered.

I'm sorry I just don't follow your logic.

Why do you think it's such a bad thing? There are rules in place to protect
animals for extinction for frivolous human reasons- ie we do not need to
kill these species to survive.

It is all too easy to say something died of natural causes when in fact it
hasn't. The testing used to prove it one way or the other is too costly to
implement in every case.

How many species of whale *aren't* protected? Very few.
http://www.cites.org/index.html
I'm too tired, and got lost, but I think this site will explain what's
actually protected and what's not.

And there has been plenty of examples especially in whales of parts of
endangered species being sold as non-protected species. One of my lecturers
was part of a team that proved that endangered whale meat was being sold as
minke.
ooh, just found his work actually...
http://www.google.co.nz/search?q=cache:Ms3RnlQGSjMC:www.sbs.auckland.ac.nz/p
eople/staff/baker_scott/proc_roy_soc_267_2000/abstract.htm+%22baleen+whale%2
2+protected&hl=en&ie=UTF-8
http://www.dhushara.com/book/diversit/extra/whale.htm
http://www.abc.net.au/rn/science/earth/stories/s587772.htm

Personally I'd not like to support that by buying whalebone.

michaela


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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] interesting ebay corset
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Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 03:40:08 -0700
Status: RO


>I have no ideas about what or when it might be, but the original poster 
>claimed it was way too short to be a corset.  I would ask, please, that no 
>one make assumptions about it based on whether it would fit them.  I am 
>*extremely* short-waisted, and until I was 28, that item of clothing would 
>have fit me almost perfectly, all the way down to my waist - and I mean 
>completely closed, too.  So it might be way too short for most of you, but 
>not me.

I'm the one who said it was to 'short' to be a corset, because it stopped 
at the waist, not that it was too 'short-waisted' to be a corset.  I made 
no assumptions based on the size (didn't even look at the size), only on 
the shape and proportions.  You say it would have fit you all the way down 
to your waist, completely closed, but that only proves it is/was your size, 
not that it is a corset.

Corsets don't stop at the waist, but continue a little way beyond it, 
flaring out over the hips.  I seem to recall that corsets of the English 
Civil War period, a very short-waisted period, do a little flaring at the 
bottom.  (Where is my copy of Corsets and Crinolines when I need it?)  The 
English Regency is the shortest-waisted period ever, but any Regency corset 
I ever saw a picture of flared out at the bottom.  1950s waist cinchers, 
maybe 8 inches top to bottom, flare out above and below their waists.

Bodices, even boned ones, often stop at the waist, so I called this garment 
a bodice of some kind.  I own a boned European folk-costume bodice, 
early-mid 20th century, which is much the same shape as this 
garment.  While it's a little too short-waisted for me (too small too), it 
is a bodice because it stops at the original owner's waist and was 
originally worn as outer-wear.





Kayta

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: smaller people (was Re: [h-cost] interesting ebay corset
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Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 03:55:10 -0700
Status: RO


>This brings up the point that it's very easy to forget how much smaller 
>people can be in the past. Some of the original costumes in the V&A and 
>other collections almost look children sized compared to us modern, 
>well-fed people.

That's one reason larger modern people don't look like the photos of people 
100 years ago.  We have to scale up the garments, and sometimes they don't 
look the same after that.

I own an 1898 bodice I got my daughters to pose in so I could see how it 
looked on a real body.  At the time they were like 3 and 7.  The sleeves 
were the right length for the 7-year-old, and the waist was the right size 
for the 3-year-old.  An on-going project of mine is to scale it up so I 
will have one 'just like it' to wear.

Kayta

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Aug  9 07:14:40 2002
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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 06:55:27 -0400
Status: RO

Well, that's the beauty of it, Robin. We make one costume for each of us!!

And I'll volunteer to do the actual sewing, so I get to go first. ;-) And
who's going to supply the materials?

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, August 09, 2002 1:18 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your favourite sewing/needlework?


>
> On Wed, 7 Aug 2002, [iso-8859-1] N Kipar wrote:
>
> > I really think we should to a 'round-robin' in making costumes, with
> > robin to do the thinking beforehand, margo to make the patterns,
> > SOMEone to actually make the garment (waits for that one) me making
> > the accessories, you rolling hems and making the embellishments. *G*
>
> OK, I'm in! But who gets to wear it? ;-)
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 06:22:04 -0600
Status: RO

Or Teddy, maybe....I have this odd feeling that he could make *anything*
look good.....
--Sue

Cabbage Rose wrote:
> 
>  > I really think we should to a 'round-robin' in making costumes, with
> > > robin to do the thinking beforehand, margo to make the patterns,
> > > SOMEone to actually make the garment (waits for that one) me making
> > > the accessories, you rolling hems and making the embellishments. *G*
> >
> > OK, I'm in! But who gets to wear it? ;-)
> >
> > --Robin
> >
> 
> Why, Penny of course!  ( I'm in for the beadwork portion!)
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Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 06:19:19 -0600
Status: RO

I *could* suggest cutting it, but I think you'd hurt me! <weg> So I
won't....<gggg>
Seriously, though....I have no idea about the hairstyles, the 20th c.
not being my "historical" period for costume.  The two designs look
really fun, though (especially the poofy one!), and you ought to look
wonderful in both, with your coloring and build!
--Sue, in cold, drizzly Montana, where hot tea is a Good Thing (tm) this
morning ;-)

Penny Ladnier wrote:
> 
> It is almost time to be Cyber Cindy again!  I am going to two balls, August
> 17 & 19.  I am needing help with hairstyles and your suggestions would be
> appreciated.  I have red waist length straight hair with bands.  Please,
> please come up with something... Katie (my daughter) is dying to start
> working on my hair.  So I need pictures to show her.
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Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 06:23:33 -0600
Status: RO

Biscuits.  "Cookies" to us Americans.
--Sue
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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 08:34:58 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO



On Fri, 9 Aug 2002, freyalyn wrote:

> This brings up the point that it's very easy to forget how much smaller
> people can be in the past. Some of the original costumes in the V&A and
> other collections almost look children sized compared to us modern,wee
>fed people.

Actually, most of the current research I have seen contradicts this old
theory/myth. Depending upon the populations and regions you look at people
are about 1-3 inches taller than our ancestors from the 17th century or
even earlier. The most significant change, in the research I have read,
occured as families moved to the US (colonies, etc.). Food was very
plentiful and with the better nutrition the first generation grew larger
than their parents, after that there was little change. 
People tend to save special clothes, often from their youth or  early
marriage. They are put away and the owner outgrows them so they are never
"worn out". The specially "preserved" clothes represent neither a cross
section of sizes or styles. One of the best explanations of this I know of
is on the Plimoth Plantation website. It also gives a wonderful explanation
of life expectancy and how it is often misinterpret.
http://www.plimoth.org/Library/4-2_40.htm

And before some one counters with short beds and short doorways...
Doorways were low to keep heat in a room. Fuel was expensive even when it
was your own labor chopping your own wood. Upper respiratory diseases were
very common, many people slept in an upright or partially upright position
to help clear their lungs (go ask any person with lung disease).

Beth - short by virtue of genes, despite more than adequate nutrition 

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Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 06:33:48 -0600
Status: RO

Oh my lord, yes, they're enforced, but I'd rather imagine more so with
the more endangered species (such as eagles) rather than the less-so
(ravens).  You can get in fairly serious trouble for having animal parts
like eagle feathers if you're not allowed by law to have them (not
Native American, etc.).  And that's even if you find the critter killed
alongside the highway, or find the feather.  The animals really do need
that much protecting.
And whales? Well, uhm, I know that there are a few countries that feel
differently about, uhm, killing and harvesting whales--IIRC, Norway is
one of them?, but most folks these days have agreed that, overall, it's
not such a good thing.  Hence the laws and international agreements. 
Certain native coastal peoples here in the NW United States are allowed
to hunt a few, because the experience is so important a part of their
heritage and culture, but really, most of us have enough other food
sources, or decent substitutes for baleen that we don't need to
sacrifice something that rare!
--Sue's 2 ecological pence worth....

Ingrid G. Storrø wrote:
> 
> On Fri, 9 Aug 2002, Lee Thompson-Herbert wrote:
> > Ingrid wrote:
> > > Ron wrote:
> > > >However, it the United States it is illegal in most cases to own the
> > > >parts of any endangered species, regardless of how the creature died,
> > > >unless the item can be proven to exist prior to the ban.
> > >
> > > Does that mean that the US classifies "whale" as being one species?
> > > Sounds strange to me; by that loigc owning a part of a crow should be
> > > illegal as well because some types of eagle are endangered.
> >
> > Baleen whales are protected species here.  All of them.
> 
> Ah, ok - not so here in Norway.
> 
> > Crows and other migratory birds also fall under those same laws (believe
> > me, they're spelled out in tedious length in the actual text).  So even
> > though the damn ravens live outside my house and love to sit on the light
> > post and make a racket, I can't collect their feathers.  At least not if
> > I'm going to let anyone else see 'em.
> 
> Really? The mind boggels! :) But I have to wonder, are those laws
> acutally enforced? I'm aware of the possible problems with legitimacy for
> poachers and such, but doesn't plain old common sense enter into it
> anywhere?
> 
> Ingrid
> 
> _______________________________________________
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From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Ingrid_G=2E_Storr=F8?= <ingridgs@studorg.hiof.no>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Re: 'perfect elizabethan' was
In-Reply-To: <001f01c23f82$78471d20$66c0adcb@michaela>
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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 14:06:13 +0200 (CEST)
Status: RO

On Fri, 9 Aug 2002, michaela wrote:
> > Ron wrote:
> > >However, it the United States it is illegal in most cases to own the
> > >parts of any endangered species, regardless of how the creature died,
> > >unless the item can be proven to exist prior to the ban.
> >
> > Does that mean that the US classifies "whale" as being one species?
> > Sounds strange to me; by that loigc owning a part of a crow should be
> > illegal as well because some types of eagle are endangered.
> 
> I'm sorry I just don't follow your logic.
> 
> Why do you think it's such a bad thing? There are rules in place to protect
> animals for extinction for frivolous human reasons- ie we do not need to
> kill these species to survive.

Oh, don't get me wrong, I'm ALL in favour of the protection of 
endangered species. And I don't see the point of whaling either, since 
it's perfectly possible to get by without it. However, I think that 
maybe our opinions differ a bit because of cultural differences - when I 
grew up, whale beef was routinely served for dinner in my kindergarten, 
for example. (I never liked it. ;) )

As I said above I don't advocate whaling, but I do honestly feel that as 
long as there are quotas for whaling minke that will be filled at any 
rate, that it is worse to throw the baleen away than to make use of it. 
Not using the baleen from these whales will not stop the whaling.
I would never, ever buy whalebone from an uncertain source (and have 
never bought or used whalebone at all, just for the record - nor have I 
heard of new whalebone being sold). But if I find a beached baleen whale 
or I know for a fact that the baleen in question comes from a minke that has 
been legally caught, I might consider using the whalebone.

Ingrid

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From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Ingrid_G=2E_Storr=F8?= <ingridgs@studorg.hiof.no>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: Re: 'perfect elizabethan' was Re: [h-cost] Renaissance Faires
 in the U.S.
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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 13:48:11 +0200 (CEST)
Status: RO

On Fri, 9 Aug 2002, Lee Thompson-Herbert wrote:
> Ingrid wrote:
> > Ron wrote:
> > >However, it the United States it is illegal in most cases to own the 
> > >parts of any endangered species, regardless of how the creature died, 
> > >unless the item can be proven to exist prior to the ban.
> > 
> > Does that mean that the US classifies "whale" as being one species? 
> > Sounds strange to me; by that loigc owning a part of a crow should be 
> > illegal as well because some types of eagle are endangered.
> 
> Baleen whales are protected species here.  All of them.

Ah, ok - not so here in Norway.

> Crows and other migratory birds also fall under those same laws (believe
> me, they're spelled out in tedious length in the actual text).  So even
> though the damn ravens live outside my house and love to sit on the light
> post and make a racket, I can't collect their feathers.  At least not if
> I'm going to let anyone else see 'em.  

Really? The mind boggels! :) But I have to wonder, are those laws 
acutally enforced? I'm aware of the possible problems with legitimacy for 
poachers and such, but doesn't plain old common sense enter into it 
anywhere? 

Ingrid

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hairstyle help!
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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 08:33:02 -0500
Status: RO

Here I go, wading in to an area where I have limited expertise.....


For the 1920's number, I'd take a cue from the figure on the right in the
illustration and do a low bun/roll at the nape of the neck and throw in a
few marcel style waves on the front of the head. A hair ornament of some
sort would be nice as well, either a jeweled band or a beaded ornament. 

For the 1950's number I'd go with a French Twist set a bit high on the
back of your head. '50's formal wear was a very up-do sort of affair-
y'all are in Virginia, I'm sure you know about up-do's!

And that is probably far more than my tuppence worth.

Karen

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your favourite sewing/needlework?
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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 08:48:23 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Fri, 9 Aug 2002, Dianne and Greg Stucki wrote:

> Well, that's the beauty of it, Robin. We make one costume for each of
> us!!
> 
> And I'll volunteer to do the actual sewing, so I get to go first. ;-)
> And who's going to supply the materials?

I believe Teddy has some excess stash ;-)

--Robin

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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hairstyle help!
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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 09:59:17 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

Penny,

I recently came across an intriguing book on coiffures, written in the
30s.  It talked about the different type of hair chignons worn in the
20s, styles, and how to make them.  Some of the illustrations were
fabulous!  I /think/ the title was "The Art and Craft of Hairdressing".
It might have some interesting info.


Drea


On Fri, 9 Aug 2002, Sue Clemenger wrote:

> I *could* suggest cutting it, but I think you'd hurt me! <weg> So I
> won't....<gggg>
> Seriously, though....I have no idea about the hairstyles, the 20th c.
> not being my "historical" period for costume.  The two designs look
> really fun, though (especially the poofy one!), and you ought to look
> wonderful in both, with your coloring and build!
> --Sue, in cold, drizzly Montana, where hot tea is a Good Thing (tm) this
> morning ;-)
> 
> Penny Ladnier wrote:
> > 
> > It is almost time to be Cyber Cindy again!  I am going to two balls, August
> > 17 & 19.  I am needing help with hairstyles and your suggestions would be
> > appreciated.  I have red waist length straight hair with bands.  Please,
> > please come up with something... Katie (my daughter) is dying to start
> > working on my hair.  So I need pictures to show her.
> _______________________________________________
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From: Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: [h-cost] Re:Animal parts was: 'perfect elizabethan'
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Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 10:20:09 -0400
Status: RO

At 10:05 AM 8/9/02 +0200, you wrote:
>Ron wrote:
>>However, it the United States it is illegal in most cases to own the 
>>parts of any endangered species, regardless of how the creature died, 
>>unless the item can be proven to exist prior to the ban.
>
>Does that mean that the US classifies "whale" as being one species? 
>Sounds strange to me; by that loigc owning a part of a crow should be 
>illegal as well because some types of eagle are endangered.
>
>Ingrid


        No the U.S. does not consider the whale one species, but I am still
unaware of ANY cetacean that is allowed to be killed, or parts taken with
out special license and reason, such as the ones I mentioned earlier or the
pod of whales that was recently killed.  In some cases I suspect that this
is as much political as anything else since many species of porpoise are not
endangered but still protected.

        A coworker of mine is a retired Federal Agent, and for a while
(after the stopped the original Sky Marshalls program) he was involved in
enforcing these laws.  He told me to be sure to have documentation if you
have any legal animal parts that are on the retricted lists. Most of my
ivory is in the form of antique tools and scrimshaw, but he says I could
still be at risk since I can't really prove that they are original.

Cheers,
Ron
Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 07:22:49 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

yep.  my (goth-y) friends and I got chased out of there on several
occasions.  Put a major dent in my sewing career for years.

.heather.


> 
> 
> On Tue, 6 Aug 2002, Heather Meadows wrote:
> 
> > at least these days you can buy fabric online.  I remember my horror
> > trying to get costuming supplies at Piece Goods when I was a kid.  
> > The wonderfully conservative ladies working there would gasp with
> > horror when I asked for ANY sheet lace in black.  Guess I might as
> > well have declared myself a satanist - since i wanted black cloth!
> 
> Especially at Piece Goods. As I recall, that chain had bags printed with
> crosses and Bible verses on them. (That was in the early 1980s, in
> Virginia.)
> 
> --Robin
> 
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From: Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Whaling
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Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 10:30:02 -0400
Status: RO

At 02:06 PM 8/9/02 +0200, you wrote:
>
>As I said above I don't advocate whaling, but I do honestly feel that as 
>long as there are quotas for whaling minke that will be filled at any 
>rate, that it is worse to throw the baleen away than to make use of it. 
>Not using the baleen from these whales will not stop the whaling.
>I would never, ever buy whalebone from an uncertain source (and have 
>never bought or used whalebone at all, just for the record - nor have I 
>heard of new whalebone being sold). But if I find a beached baleen whale 
>or I know for a fact that the baleen in question comes from a minke that has 
>been legally caught, I might consider using the whalebone.
>
>Ingrid

         See we are talking cultural difference as we do not have a quota on
Minke, but just the opposite we have a ban.  There was just recently a small
pod of whales killed but that was because of illness.  Apparently some of
them were sick and were beaching themselves.  The other would accidently
beach themselves in trying to help the ill ones.  I did not follow the story
that closely, but apparently after being beached and rescued already twice,
when the tried to beach themselves a third time they were destroyed.  I
think that was done to preserve others who might try to help, but as I said
I did not follow the story closely.

Cheers,
Ron
Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Aug  9 10:38:00 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hairstyle help!
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In-Reply-To: <no.id> from "Sue Clemenger" at Aug 09, 2002 06:19:19 AM
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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 07:39:13 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

for the 20's dress I would recommend putting your hair into tight spiral curls -
i use a set of 1980's pin curl sticks for this, you can still get them, and
they make really tight curls.  then you gel those curls down, and pull the rest
of the hair back into a loose bun of chignon and add adornments.  the curls
end up looking a lot like marcel waves, at least as close as i have gotten
without paying a specialized historical stylist $75 for the pleasure ;)

.heather.

(you can also get the same effect with rag curls, pretty much.)
check out marci's retro hair site at http://www.geocities.com/Wellesley/2457/




> Penny Ladnier wrote:
> > 
> > It is almost time to be Cyber Cindy again!  I am going to two balls, August
> > 17 & 19.  I am needing help with hairstyles and your suggestions would be
> > appreciated.  I have red waist length straight hair with bands.  Please,
> > please come up with something... Katie (my daughter) is dying to start
> > working on my hair.  So I need pictures to show her.
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Subject: Re: 'perfect elizabethan' was Re: [h-cost] Renaissance Faires in the U.S.
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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 08:03:43 +0000
Status: RO

I use quadrille paper--draw the pattern on it and tape it to a 3x5 card.
That way it's easy enough to carry around with the project.

If you're worried about your pattern card getting wet or damaged, cover
it with some clear packing tape or fabric laminator. The latter works
very well on some types of papers. I haven't tried it on filmy or tissue
type papers though, such as dress patterns.

					Arlys

> Why not make an exampler to carry in your workbasket? Unlike to-days
> "samplers", an exampler was
> just a length of cloth with different patterns worked on it in no
> particalar order. Some times 
> just enough of a pattern was worked to enable the needleworker to be 
> able to copy it at a latter date. Roll it up and put it in with your
threads.  
> 
> Peggy 

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Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 12:11:58 -0400
Status: RO


> Does that mean that the US classifies "whale" as being one species? 
> Sounds strange to me; by that loigc owning a part of a crow should be 
> illegal as well because some types of eagle are endangered.

The hunting of whales is completely off limits in US waters.  There are 
some Native American tribes who are allowed to troll their ancestral 
hunting waters as part of their birthright, but commercial whaling is 
right-out no matter the species.  And it's not quite the same as all 
birds being off limits because a few are endangered.  The whale 
populations native to this part of the world were almost universially 
hunted to the point of extinction by the turn of the century, not just 
one particular species.  When one population dwindled to nothing, 
whalers would move onto the next type of whale and so on.

Sarah
http://www.elizabethanlady.com
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Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 09:24:22 -0700
Status: RO

At 02:52 PM 08/07/2002 +0100, N Kipar wrote:

 *L* I really think we
>should to a 'round-robin' in making costumes, with robin to do the thinking
>beforehand, margo to make the patterns, SOMEone to actually make the garment
>(waits for that one) me making the accessories, you rolling hems and
making the
>embellishments. *G*
>

Oooh, I like this idea!  Robin, be a dear and take care of those little
details for me, would you?

Come to think of it, Drea is doing this for me now, for  a future joint
offering.

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your favourite sewing/needlework?
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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 12:20:00 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Fri, 9 Aug 2002, Margo Anderson wrote:

> > *L* I really think we should to a 'round-robin' in making costumes,
> > with robin to do the thinking beforehand, margo to make the patterns,
> > SOMEone to actually make the garment
> > (waits for that one) me making the accessories, you rolling hems and
> > making the embellishments. *G*
> 
> Oooh, I like this idea!  Robin, be a dear and take care of those little
> details for me, would you?

I'm still wrapping myself around the idea of think-work for patterns,
since I work without them! I fit > sew > cut instead of the other way
around. So I'm liable to skip your step entirely, Margo, without meaning
to!

--Robin

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From: "Angela F. Lazear-  Cabbage Rose" <cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hairstyle help!
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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 10:57:47 -0700
Status: RO

Yes yes yes, that's the look!  I think there are some good pics of women
with longer hair all styled up in the "Great Gatsby" with Mia Farrow &
Robert Redford.  At least I think that's where I saw them.

angela

----- Original Message -----
From: "Heather Meadows" <alice@wonderland.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, August 09, 2002 7:39 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hairstyle help!


> for the 20's dress I would recommend putting your hair into tight spiral
curls -
> i use a set of 1980's pin curl sticks for this, you can still get them,
and
> they make really tight curls.  then you gel those curls down, and pull the
rest
> of the hair back into a loose bun of chignon and add adornments.  the
curls
> end up looking a lot like marcel waves, at least as close as i have gotten
> without paying a specialized historical stylist $75 for the pleasure ;)
>
> .heather.
>
> (you can also get the same effect with rag curls, pretty much.)
> check out marci's retro hair site at
http://www.geocities.com/Wellesley/2457/
>
>
>
>
> > Penny Ladnier wrote:
> > >
> > > It is almost time to be Cyber Cindy again!  I am going to two balls,
August
> > > 17 & 19.  I am needing help with hairstyles and your suggestions would
be
> > > appreciated.  I have red waist length straight hair with bands.
Please,
> > > please come up with something... Katie (my daughter) is dying to start
> > > working on my hair.  So I need pictures to show her.
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 14:03:38 -0400
Status: RO

Another appeal to Liz to help me find how to unsubscribe David Batterham

Original Message:
-----------------
From: Marna Jean marnajean@shootingstarhistory.com
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 16:07:12 -0500
To: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] interesting ebay corset


I have a theory- its part of an entertainers costume or perhaps fancy dress
costume-(I just got a new plate of fancy dress costumes for 1883 so I'm
stuck on them at the moment) and I'm guessing late 19th century.
MJ

Doug and Marna Jean Davis
Shooting Star Enterprises
Living History & Custom Historical Clothing
http://www.shootingstarhistory.com/home.html
 oakley@access-one.com
Alternate email-
oakley@shootingstarhistory.com

Instructor for www.costumeclassroom.com -
 Victorian and Old West Era 
Online Classes in History and Period Sewing


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Re: 'perfect elizabethan' was
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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 09:11:31 -0700
Status: RO

>  > Ron wrote:
>>  >However, it the United States it is illegal in most cases to own the
>>  >parts of any endangered species, regardless of how the creature died,
>>  >unless the item can be proven to exist prior to the ban.
>>
>>  Does that mean that the US classifies "whale" as being one species?
>>  Sounds strange to me; by that loigc owning a part of a crow should be
>  > illegal as well because some types of eagle are endangered.

IANAL, but ...

One minor clarification on bird-parts (at least that was the case 
back when I was taking Avican Sciences classes at Davis in the '70s). 
Under US law, ownership of parts from any _native_ bird species is 
restricted.  (Introduced species like pigeons, starlings, English 
sparrows, pheasants, etc. are fair game.)  So, in fact, the bit about 
owning a part of a crow being illegal is actually technically 
correct, but not for the reason above.  (I'm trying to head off 
confusion here, not picking at details.)  Having unauthorized parts 
of endangered species carries a heavier penalty, however.  On the 
other hand, it is possible to get permits to have restricted bird 
parts -- presumably if you can show a legitimate reason and if the 
parts are acquired in legitimate ways.  (For example, a hunting 
permit for native species like migratory ducks and geese naturally 
involves permission to have parts from those birds in your 
possession!  Similarly, people with falconry permits are authorized 
to possess feathers from the species their permit covers.)

<I pause now for the horrified reactions from US members of, "You 
mean the feds can bust me for having a magpie feather on my hat?" 
Technically, quite possibly, but it's unlikely to be invoked unless 
someone thinks you're going out and shooting up magpies to get them. 
The feds have _much_ better things to do with their time.  Bringing 
in a topic much more relevant to the mailing list -- it _is_ the sort 
of problem one might run into when taking costumes with animal-parts 
attached across national borders.>

Whether the same "permit-to-own" option is available for antique 
whalebone, or whether it's not enough of a problem that anyone 
worries about it, I don't know.  But I rather suspect that pretty 
much _all_ baleen whales are at least "protected species" (a lower 
level of danger than "endangered species") under US law, so it's not 
a matter of one endangered species making non-endangered ones illegal.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Subject: [h-cost] Making of a helmet crest
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Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 11:31:11 -0700
Status: RO

Greetings to one and all,
 
   In the near future I would like to make crest that will be placed 
over a 14th century helmet.  For those who do not what a crest is, it's 
a figurehead that was placed atop of a helmet.  I have thought about 
doing it in paper mache, but it's the main frame of it that I am having 
problems figuring out.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Roscelin

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Whaling
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Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 11:34:21 -0700
Status: RO

I don't especially take a stand on whaling, but if I were against it, I 
would not spend my money to help any whaler make his profit.  I'd rather he 
threw away the baleen and took a loss.

> >As I said above I don't advocate whaling, but I do honestly feel that as
> >long as there are quotas for whaling minke that will be filled at any
> >rate, that it is worse to throw the baleen away than to make use of it.
> >Not using the baleen from these whales will not stop the whaling.
> >I would never, ever buy whalebone from an uncertain source (and have
> >never bought or used whalebone at all, just for the record - nor have I
> >heard of new whalebone being sold). But if I find a beached baleen whale
> >or I know for a fact that the baleen in question comes from a minke that 
> has
> >been legally caught, I might consider using the whalebone.
> >
> >Ingrid
>
>          See we are talking cultural difference as we do not have a quota on
>Minke, but just the opposite we have a ban.  There was just recently a small
>pod of whales killed but that was because of illness.  Apparently some of
>them were sick and were beaching themselves.  The other would accidently
>beach themselves in trying to help the ill ones.  I did not follow the story
>that closely, but apparently after being beached and rescued already twice,
>when the tried to beach themselves a third time they were destroyed.  I
>think that was done to preserve others who might try to help, but as I said
>I did not follow the story closely.
>
>Cheers,
>Ron
>Ron Carnegie
>r.carnegie@verizon.net
>         *************************************************
>         "The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
>         once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
>         other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
>         their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
>         all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we
>         ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
>                                 G.M. Trevelyan
>         *************************************************
>
>_______________________________________________
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>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Kayta

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Aug  9 14:40:05 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making of a helmet crest
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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 14:40:50 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

Ceninni talks about how to do this in his book "Il Libro dell'Arte".

He makes the basic form out of two pieces of leather, wets the leather,
and stuffs it full of sand until it dries.  Then the hollow leather base
is covered with plaster and carved. There's also a reference in a 16th c.
book  of secrets for paper pulp mixed up with a starchy glue-like
substance and molded into the desired shape.  Which would be a lot lighter
than plaster.
:)

Sounds like a fun project!

Drea

On Fri, 9 Aug 2002, Rose Amberwulf wrote:

> Greetings to one and all,
>  
>    In the near future I would like to make crest that will be placed 
> over a 14th century helmet.  For those who do not what a crest is, it's 
> a figurehead that was placed atop of a helmet.  I have thought about 
> doing it in paper mache, but it's the main frame of it that I am having 
> problems figuring out.
> Any help will be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Roscelin
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making of a helmet crest
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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 14:40:50 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

Ceninni talks about how to do this in his book "Il Libro dell'Arte".

He makes the basic form out of two pieces of leather, wets the leather,
and stuffs it full of sand until it dries.  Then the hollow leather base
is covered with plaster and carved. There's also a reference in a 16th c.
book  of secrets for paper pulp mixed up with a starchy glue-like
substance and molded into the desired shape.  Which would be a lot lighter
than plaster.
:)

Sounds like a fun project!

Drea

On Fri, 9 Aug 2002, Rose Amberwulf wrote:

> Greetings to one and all,
>  
>    In the near future I would like to make crest that will be placed 
> over a 14th century helmet.  For those who do not what a crest is, it's 
> a figurehead that was placed atop of a helmet.  I have thought about 
> doing it in paper mache, but it's the main frame of it that I am having 
> problems figuring out.
> Any help will be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Roscelin
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

_______________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Aug  9 14:55:18 2002
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making of a helmet crest
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Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 11:54:30 -0700
Status: RO


>   In the near future I would like to make crest that will be placed over 
> a 14th century helmet.  For those who do not what a crest is, it's a 
> figurehead that was placed atop of a helmet.  I have thought about doing 
> it in paper mache, but it's the main frame of it that I am having 
> problems figuring out.
>Any help will be greatly appreciated.

If you're using papier mache', anything will do for a frame underneath the 
paper layers, as long as it won't rot and stink under there.  You can use 
crumpled up newspaper taped into shape, a built-up wood armature, crumpled 
chicken wire, cardboard shapes cut and taped together, parts of a cut-up 
rubber ball, a balloon, plastic modeling clay, a stuffed animal - anything, 
as long as it's the right shape.  Under several layers of paper, which will 
stiffen when dry, it won't matter what you used.

When you are doing your several layers of paper, you can form places to put 
plumes, or realistic eyes and teeth from a taxidermy place.  You can even 
run electrical wire between the layers of paper, if your intention is 
science fiction.  And if there are enough layers of paper, you will have 
made the equivalent of particle board, and you can sand it smooth with 
regular sand paper.

I believe that papier mache' is what the originals were made of, but I 
don't know where I heard that.

Kayta

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 <p05100301b979941ea970@[136.152.196.137]>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Re: 'perfect elizabethan' was
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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 15:35:38 -0400
Status: RO

I learned that it's legal to have, but not to sell, bird parts of 
native but unendangered species- this was discussed in an article 
about Native American artisans using found feathers in their work, 
noting that while such use was legal, selling the work was not. OTOH, 
no one was busting the gallery owners who had the work!

It's not legal to have raptor or endangered species bits unless one 
has a permit, even a found feather. I think vultures fall into this 
category, but I'm not sure about ravens; I know that crows are 
legally "songbirds," though one can also legally shoot them in most 
states.

I'm not sure where ducks and geese fall in this, since they're a 
separate issue- they're not the migratory native songbirds that the 
one law protects. I believe their feathers are legal, but don't know 
for sure.

Exotics are fair game, whether bits or the whole bird. One can 
legally have a pet starling, for example, but not a jay. I think 
endangered exotics fall under yet another system of rules, which 
require yet another sort of permit.

It's all a very confused mess!

-Amanda
who volunteered with an animal rehabber for a while and got 
introduced to some of this there
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Aug  9 16:20:23 2002
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: legal feathers (was Re: [h-cost] Re: Re: 'perfect elizabethan' was
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Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 13:18:19 -0700
Status: RO

The UD Department of Fish and Game has a huge web site, and they are very 
specific about what one can and cannot possess.  Feathers from anything 
with a hunting season (ducks, doves, etc.) are assumed to have come from 
legally taken birds.  Feathers from birds that are ranched in this country 
but endangered in their native country (ostriches) are assumed to be from 
ranched birds.  'Escaped domestic animals' have no protection except from 
local hunting ordinances (don't fire a gun inside the city limits, etc.), 
and this includes the 'rock dove' (city park pigeon).  Vermin are similarly 
unprotected (rats, mice, etc.), but research crows, as they may be 
protected in some states but not in others.  I don't think non-native 
species (parrots, English sparrows, etc.) are protected except by local 
hunting ordinances.

If the Fish and Game Department catches you with illegal feathers they can 
confiscate the entire garment, or fine you, or both, depending on the 
offense, their web site tells me.

>I learned that it's legal to have, but not to sell, bird parts of native 
>but unendangered species- this was discussed in an article about Native 
>American artisans using found feathers in their work, noting that while 
>such use was legal, selling the work was not. OTOH, no one was busting the 
>gallery owners who had the work!
>
>It's not legal to have raptor or endangered species bits unless one has a 
>permit, even a found feather. I think vultures fall into this category, 
>but I'm not sure about ravens; I know that crows are legally "songbirds," 
>though one can also legally shoot them in most states.
>
>I'm not sure where ducks and geese fall in this, since they're a separate 
>issue- they're not the migratory native songbirds that the one law 
>protects. I believe their feathers are legal, but don't know for sure.
>
>Exotics are fair game, whether bits or the whole bird. One can legally 
>have a pet starling, for example, but not a jay. I think endangered 
>exotics fall under yet another system of rules, which require yet another 
>sort of permit.
>
>It's all a very confused mess!
>
>-Amanda
>who volunteered with an animal rehabber for a while and got introduced to 
>some of this there
>_______________________________________________
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>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Kayta

    //// \\\
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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 16:23:52 -0400
Status: RO

Oh, Teeeddyyyyy.....

Dianne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, August 09, 2002 9:48 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your favourite sewing/needlework?


> 
> On Fri, 9 Aug 2002, Dianne and Greg Stucki wrote:
> 
> > Well, that's the beauty of it, Robin. We make one costume for each of
> > us!!
> > 
> > And I'll volunteer to do the actual sewing, so I get to go first. ;-)
> > And who's going to supply the materials?
> 
> I believe Teddy has some excess stash ;-)
> 
> --Robin
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] interesting undergarments (was Re: interesting ebay corset)
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Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 13:41:00 -0700
Status: RO



So out of curiosity, I went and searched for "antique corset" on ebay to see 
what would come up, and I found this set of corset cover and bloomers

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2129223831

I'm having trouble reconciling the date in my mind. If the measurements of 
the corset cover are as she says, then that's definitely what it is, in my 
mind.  I don't know anyone with that sort of tuck naturally!  What confuses 
me are the bloomers.  They've got a sewn crotch seam, which I was told was 
something that only really started in the late 1920's.  I know that people 
were *probably* still wearing corsets and things around then, but I can't 
see why you would want closed crotch bloomers if you were wearing one, 
regardless of the year.  It just doesn't make sense to me.

The only other thing I can think of is that maybe it's a reproduction, and 
the crotch has been closed to less offend the modern buyer's sensibilities?  
But then that would call the seller's calling it "antique" into question...

Please advise?   :)

-Laura
(the puzzled)


_________________________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 16:37:20 -0400
Status: RO

Now THERE's a fantabulous combination! Whee!! Whatcha makin'?

Dianne
----- Original Message ----- > 
> Come to think of it, Drea is doing this for me now, for  a future joint
> offering.
> 
> Margo
> "One Tough Costumer"
> 
> 
> See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 14:15:16 -0700
Status: RO

At 04:37 PM 08/09/2002 -0400, Dianne and Greg Stucki wrote:
>Now THERE's a fantabulous combination! Whee!! Whatcha makin'?
>
We're in the very early stages of producing The 16th Century Market Woman's
Wardrobe Pattern, or possibly several patterns for various geograpical
areas. Look for it sometime next year.

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Subject: [h-cost] 1860s Dye Recipes online
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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 17:12:15 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

Everyone,

While in the process of moving and updating my Elizabethan costuming page,
I stumbled across a document that I'd been meaning to web for a while
now...excerpts from the book "600 miscellaneous Receipts worth their
weight in gold", published in 1860.  I transcribed all of the recipes for
dyeing fabric, dyeing straw and leather, cleaning gloves, making pomade
and tooth powder, etc.

It's up and running at
http://costume.dm.net/other/1860misc.html

My webpage deals with Elizabethan clothing, so I don't have a link to
it...feel free to forward the url on to any sites, lists or folk who'd
find it useful.

Enjoy!

Drea

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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 17:45:21 -0400
Status: RO

Come here Sue... <whomp!  you with my cast iron skillet>>>  thinking of
cutting my long hair of 17 years.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com





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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 16:55:28 -0700
Status: RO

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Hi, my name is Margo.(Some other Margo).  I've written the occasional =
filk, but no one in their right mind (or wrong one for that matter) =
wants to hear me sing.

costume content - I like to embroider; my sewing/costuming skills are =
mediocre.  I prefer ethnic styles, as they are easy to sew & leave a lot =
of area for embellishment.

Margo Glenn-Lewis
Davis, CA
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<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi, my name is Margo.(Some other =
Margo).&nbsp; I've=20
written the occasional filk, but no one in their right mind (or wrong =
one for=20
that matter) wants to hear me sing.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>costume content - I like to embroider; =
my=20
sewing/costuming skills are mediocre.&nbsp; I prefer ethnic styles, as =
they are=20
easy to sew &amp; leave a lot of area for embellishment.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Margo Glenn-Lewis</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Davis, CA</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 18:42:08 -0600
Status: RO

Heh, heh, heh.....<sue chuckles>....
I'm just jealous, is all.....
--sue
(dang, but she packs a mean skillet...must be all those kids she has to
keep in line! <g>)

Penny Ladnier wrote:
> 
> Come here Sue... <whomp!  you with my cast iron skillet>>>  thinking of
> cutting my long hair of 17 years.
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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 17:36:37 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

from the headers of your mail:

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> 
> Another appeal to Liz to help me find how to unsubscribe David Batterham
> 
> Original Message:
> -----------------
> From: Marna Jean marnajean@shootingstarhistory.com
> Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 16:07:12 -0500
> To: h-costume@net.indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] interesting ebay corset
> 
> 
> I have a theory- its part of an entertainers costume or perhaps fancy dress
> costume-(I just got a new plate of fancy dress costumes for 1883 so I'm
> stuck on them at the moment) and I'm guessing late 19th century.
> MJ
> 
> Doug and Marna Jean Davis
> Shooting Star Enterprises
> Living History & Custom Historical Clothing
> http://www.shootingstarhistory.com/home.html
>  oakley@access-one.com
> Alternate email-
> oakley@shootingstarhistory.com
> 
> Instructor for www.costumeclassroom.com -
>  Victorian and Old West Era 
> Online Classes in History and Period Sewing
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> mail2web - Check your email from the web at
> http://mail2web.com/ .
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Aug  9 22:03:04 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: helmet crest
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Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 21:59:09 -0400
Status: RO


Rosalyn:

My husband has several helmet crests. He made a leather cap that ties on the
top of his helmet (yes, he had to drill through the helmet) that is the base
of all his crests. They tie on to the leather base. The whole thing is quite
sturdy.

He isn't here, but I will ask him about the cap when he gets home. I think
it is made from two pieces sewn together in the middle. It is stiffened, but
I don't know if he just molded it by getting it wet, or if he made cuir
buille by covering it with wax and baking it.

More to come . . .

Gail Finke


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Aug  9 23:48:00 2002
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Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 15:32:07 -0700
Status: RO

I've found that quite a few sellers on ebay have a very vague idea of what 
"Victorian" means and often ascribe something to that time period when it's 
blatantly clear it's from a later era. One of my pet peeves is sellers 
calling an Edwardian or even later dress "Victorian". If it seems that the 
seller is making an honest mistake I'll email them with more correct 
information and dating.

I've also found that "antique" is a word that's tossed around quite 
liberally on ebay. It seems that virtually anything pre-1950 is considered 
"antique"

I agree that this corset is very likely not Victorian and not even antique. 
In fact, the fabric looks brand new. It's hard to tell from a jpeg, but 
there's something about it that looks like it's freshly made. There's a 
crispness to the look of the fabric that makes me think it's never been 
laundered. And aside from the closed crotch, the ""corset cover" buttons up 
the back, which a proper corset cover wouldn't. And I don't think Victorian 
or even later corset covers would have had quite so much crochet lace on 
them. My feeling is this is a leftover form the "prarie" style craze that 
was so popular in the '70's, and is popular right now again in that "retro" 
fashion. Which is why I think this could well be brand new. I'll be 
generous and say the seller probably meant to say "Victorian-STYLE" in 
their description.

Julie


>Message: 11
>From: "Kala Jathos" <matrixsinger@hotmail.com>
>To: h-costume@net.indra.com
>Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 13:41:00 -0700
>Subject: [h-cost] interesting undergarments (was Re: interesting ebay corset)
>Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
>
>
>So out of curiosity, I went and searched for "antique corset" on ebay to see
>what would come up, and I found this set of corset cover and bloomers
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2129223831
>
>I'm having trouble reconciling the date in my mind. If the measurements of
>the corset cover are as she says, then that's definitely what it is, in my
>mind.  I don't know anyone with that sort of tuck naturally!  What confuses
>me are the bloomers.  They've got a sewn crotch seam, which I was told was
>something that only really started in the late 1920's.  I know that people
>were *probably* still wearing corsets and things around then, but I can't
>see why you would want closed crotch bloomers if you were wearing one,
>regardless of the year.  It just doesn't make sense to me.
>
>The only other thing I can think of is that maybe it's a reproduction, and
>the crotch has been closed to less offend the modern buyer's sensibilities?
>But then that would call the seller's calling it "antique" into question...
>
>Please advise?   :)
>
>-Laura
>(the puzzled)
>


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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] interesting undergarments (was Re: interesting ebay
 corset)
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Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 23:33:46 -0700
Status: RO

I think what we're looking at is too much matching crochet to be a totally 
1970s thing.  Notice how the lace appears to match on the yoke straps and 
the insertion on the drawers, as do the horizontal lace on the yoke and on 
the edge of the drawers.  If it is a 70s thing, I think the lace is at 
least as old as the nineteen-teens, and is a set intended for a real corset 
cover and drawers.  The lace style reminds me of nineteen-teens crochet 
nightgown yokes.  But we can't tell if the lace was pieced together later 
out of old parts or if it was made as a set for what we see here.

BTW, my favorite phrase is 'Victorian Flapper', which I see every once in a 
while used to describe one of those tubular nineteen-twenties dresses.

>I've found that quite a few sellers on ebay have a very vague idea of what 
>"Victorian" means and often ascribe something to that time period when 
>it's blatantly clear it's from a later era. One of my pet peeves is 
>sellers calling an Edwardian or even later dress "Victorian". If it seems 
>that the seller is making an honest mistake I'll email them with more 
>correct information and dating.
>
>I've also found that "antique" is a word that's tossed around quite 
>liberally on ebay. It seems that virtually anything pre-1950 is considered 
>"antique"
>
>I agree that this corset is very likely not Victorian and not even 
>antique. In fact, the fabric looks brand new. It's hard to tell from a 
>jpeg, but there's something about it that looks like it's freshly made. 
>There's a crispness to the look of the fabric that makes me think it's 
>never been laundered. And aside from the closed crotch, the ""corset 
>cover" buttons up the back, which a proper corset cover wouldn't. And I 
>don't think Victorian or even later corset covers would have had quite so 
>much crochet lace on them. My feeling is this is a leftover form the 
>"prarie" style craze that was so popular in the '70's, and is popular 
>right now again in that "retro" fashion. Which is why I think this could 
>well be brand new. I'll be generous and say the seller probably meant to 
>say "Victorian-STYLE" in their description.
>
>Julie
>
>
>>Message: 11
>>From: "Kala Jathos" <matrixsinger@hotmail.com>
>>To: h-costume@net.indra.com
>>Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 13:41:00 -0700
>>Subject: [h-cost] interesting undergarments (was Re: interesting ebay corset)
>>Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>
>>
>>
>>So out of curiosity, I went and searched for "antique corset" on ebay to see
>>what would come up, and I found this set of corset cover and bloomers
>>
>>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2129223831
>>
>>I'm having trouble reconciling the date in my mind. If the measurements of
>>the corset cover are as she says, then that's definitely what it is, in my
>>mind.  I don't know anyone with that sort of tuck naturally!  What confuses
>>me are the bloomers.  They've got a sewn crotch seam, which I was told was
>>something that only really started in the late 1920's.  I know that people
>>were *probably* still wearing corsets and things around then, but I can't
>>see why you would want closed crotch bloomers if you were wearing one,
>>regardless of the year.  It just doesn't make sense to me.
>>
>>The only other thing I can think of is that maybe it's a reproduction, and
>>the crotch has been closed to less offend the modern buyer's sensibilities?
>>But then that would call the seller's calling it "antique" into question...
>>
>>Please advise?   :)
>>
>>-Laura
>>(the puzzled)
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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Kayta

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I know this question was asked quite a while ago.  I also know that several 
of you are in touch with the person who does period tanning.  I received the 
forwarded message and thought I should share this as well.
Elisabeth

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>I know this question was asked quite a while ago. &nbsp;I also know that several of you are in touch with the person who does period tanning. &nbsp;I received the forwarded message and thought I should share this as well.
<BR>Elisabeth</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 23:22:10 -0000
Subject: [Rhydderich_Hael] Re: Fwd: [h-cost] Curing Rabbit Pelts
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The book you want is called "How to cure hides and tan leather".
I bought my copy from Castle Furnishings at last Pennsic (I've got
two bunnies and a doe in my freezer waiting for me to finish reading 
it)  She also has a web-site as www.medievalbookstore.com  Good luck,
we'll compare pelts in the fall.
-- Dagonell

--- In Rhydderich_Hael@y..., BOSTONHAHN@a... wrote:
> I received this message from the Historical Costuming list.  I 
thought maybe 
> Lord Cynwyl could answer this question.  But the email address I 
have for him 
> is not working.  Maybe someone can forward please, if he is not on 
this list.
> Thanks
> Elisabeth
> 
> Can anyone help?
> 
> As the other half seems to enjoy thinning out the local rabbit 
population and bringing them home
> for us to eat.  I decided it might be worth doing something with all 
the furs, that otherwise
> would go in the bin.  Does anyone have any idea how furs were cured 
in 16th Century England.  I
> have heard of using alum or alum and saltpeter but I have no idea if 
these were used then and what
> quantities would be required.
> 
> Many Thanks
> 
> Rachel
> 
> =====
> Rachel
> 
> Tudor Bibliography
> http://website.lineone.net/~reholliday/Tudor/
> 
> __________________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2002 16:05:24 -0000
Subject: [Rhydderich_Hael] Re: Fwd: [h-cost] Curing Rabbit Pelts
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I found the recipe Cynwyl gave me:
4 oz salt petre (drug store)
1 lb alum (health food store)
2-1/2 lb oatmeal
1/4 lb kosher salt
1 qt buttermilk

Mix well.  Rub into hide on non-fur side.  Does one deerskin.
Let us know how many bunnies it does.  -- Dagonell

> --- In Rhydderich_Hael@y..., BOSTONHAHN@a... wrote:
> > I received this message from the Historical Costuming list.  I 
> thought maybe 
> > Lord Cynwyl could answer this question.  But the email address I 
> have for him 
> > is not working.  Maybe someone can forward please, if he is not 
on 
> this list.
> > Thanks
> > Elisabeth
> > 
> > Can anyone help?
> > 
> > As the other half seems to enjoy thinning out the local rabbit 
> population and bringing them home
> > for us to eat.  I decided it might be worth doing something with 
all 
> the furs, that otherwise
> > would go in the bin.  Does anyone have any idea how furs were 
cured 
> in 16th Century England.  I
> > have heard of using alum or alum and saltpeter but I have no idea 
if 
> these were used then and what
> > quantities would be required.
> > 
> > Many Thanks
> > 
> > Rachel
> > 
> > =====
> > Rachel
> > 
> > Tudor Bibliography
> > http://website.lineone.net/~reholliday/Tudor/
> > 
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Everything you'll ever need on one web page
> > from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
> > http://uk.my.yahoo.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@m...
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: Claire Clarke <Lady_Angharad@bigpond.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Long gloves
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Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 14:27:54 -0700
Status: RO

When were long evening gloves worn? From what I've seen long gloves
start to
be worn in the late 1790's but a lot of 1840's pictures have the ladies
wearing
short gloves with evening dresses? They seem to be pretty much universal
from
the later Victorian period into this century. Were there any rules about
colours and
stuff?
I recently acquired a pair (polyester unfortunately I think) so I'm
wondering what
costume I could make to go with them?

Claire

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From: Claire Clarke <Lady_Angharad@bigpond.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pleats (was: What's your favorite...)
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Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 14:31:36 -0700
Status: RO

>
>
> Also, I don't have a single strand running around the whole
> waistband. I do that in quarters or eighths too. The reason for this
> is that if you pop a strand, you don't get the whole skirt popping
> out, only that one section, which makes it much easier to repair. (I
> do the sewing of the pleats the same way for the same reason.
> Can you tell I've seen too many which have unraveled themselves in
> the middle of important usage?)
>
> The tricky part of this is that you have to have the strands of one
> section slightly overlapping those of another section so that you
> don't accidently get an "empty" area with a pleat valley which
> doesn't have a strand holding it in place.
>

Ah well, what I do for that is knot the thread every five-ten pleats or so,
then if it breaks only a few come undone, and it avoids the 'valley' thing
too.
Claire

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Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 14:42:59 -0700
Status: RO

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Claire Clarke wrote:

> N Kipar wrote:
>
> >  --- Claire Clarke <Lady_Angharad@bigpond.com> wrote: >
> >
> > > No, I do it this way too, and I'm a mathematician!
> > > On the other hand I have trouble with cartridge pleats, because I can
> > > never seem to work out how big to make the gathering stitiches to pull
> > > the skirt up exactly to the size of the waistband/bodice. Anyone have
> > > a foolproof method for this one?
> >
> > Uhm... you are probably going to scream now being a mathematician but I NEVER
> > cxalculate anything when I cartridge pleat. I just pleat, as big or small as I
> > think looks good and then I just shuffle the pleats prettily and neatly along
> > the waistband. works everytime, truly foolproof and I wouldn't even know how to
> > do the calculation thing (I'm dyscalcic, numbers mean nothing to me).
> >
>
> Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaargh!
> :-P
> Obviously my problem is just thinking about it too much *grin*
>
> Claire

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N Kipar wrote:

>  --- Claire Clarke <Lady_Angharad@bigpond.com> wrote: >
>
> > No, I do it this way too, and I'm a mathematician!
> > On the other hand I have trouble with cartridge pleats, because I can
> > never seem to work out how big to make the gathering stitiches to pull
> > the skirt up exactly to the size of the waistband/bodice. Anyone have
> > a foolproof method for this one?
>
> Uhm... you are probably going to scream now being a mathematician but I NEVER
> cxalculate anything when I cartridge pleat. I just pleat, as big or small as I
> think looks good and then I just shuffle the pleats prettily and neatly along
> the waistband. works everytime, truly foolproof and I wouldn't even know how to
> do the calculation thing (I'm dyscalcic, numbers mean nothing to me).
>

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaargh!
:-P
Obviously my problem is just thinking about it too much *grin*

Claire


--------------BB825A7B3AB292DAB2958448--

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From: "Kendra Van Cleave" <kendrav@attbi.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Long gloves
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Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2002 22:30:51 -0700
Status: RO

A vague answer, but I would suggest looking through fashion plates (you
could look at the Timeline of Costume History images on the Costumer's
Manifesto:  http://www.costumes.org/pages/timelinepages/timeline.htm) to
find styles, lengths, and colors, which definitely vary by period.  For
example, I was recently looking at gloves in the 1830's, and I found that
below-elbow-length white gloves were practically universal.

- Kendra

----- Original Message -----
From: "Claire Clarke" <Lady_Angharad@bigpond.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 11, 2002 2:27 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Long gloves


> When were long evening gloves worn? From what I've seen long gloves
> start to
> be worn in the late 1790's but a lot of 1840's pictures have the ladies
> wearing
> short gloves with evening dresses? They seem to be pretty much universal
> from
> the later Victorian period into this century. Were there any rules about
> colours and
> stuff?
> I recently acquired a pair (polyester unfortunately I think) so I'm
> wondering what
> costume I could make to go with them?
>
> Claire
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 09:00:56 +0100
Status: RO

Gloves fashions change quite a lot from what I've read, I do 1870s & tend to
wear 24 inch for evenings and wrist for day. I had problems getting leather
gloves to fit my large modern hands so started making  various styles in my
size, I was surprised to find so many people had trouble so now I sell too.

Mel
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Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 20:30:06 +0200
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Hi,

I have my own website!!
It is still under construction, but it is my own!!

You can find here the story of the making of my 16th century weddingdress.
And I plan on putting pictures up of all the costumes I have made, and 
lots of other stuf.
It is more work then I thought but I'm happy!
And I hope others wil like it too.

Medieval and Renaissance costumes and archery
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/ <http://home.kabelfoon.nl/%7Etriade/>

Greetings,
        Deredere


--------------010004010803080508040008
Content-Type: text/html
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Base: "http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/"
Content-Location: "http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/"

<HTML>
<HEAD>
	<TITLE>Medieval and Renaissance costumes and archery </TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>
	<BR>
	<CENTER><H1>Medieval and Renaissance costumes and archery</H1></CENTER>
	<BR>
	<CENTER><IMG src="images/bloemenlijn.jpg"></CENTER>	    <BR>	    
	<BR>

	<CENTER>    
	<TABLE>
	<TR>
	<TD>
	<H2>Index:</H2><H3>	
	<UL>
	
	<LI><A href="Wedding invitation.html">		Wedding invitation (Under construktion)	</A>
	<LI><A href="Weddingdress/weddingdress.html">	My weddingdress				</A>
	<LI><A href="Wedding costume.html">		Wedding costume (under construktion)	</A>
	<LI><A href="Wedding Pictures.html">		Wedding Pictures (under construktion)	</A>
	<LI><A href="Costume Galery.html">			Costume Galery (under construktion)	</A>
	<LI><A href="Archery.html">				Archery (under construktion)		</A>
	</UL></H3>
	</TD>
	</TR>
	</TABLE>
	</CENTER>
	
	<BR>
	<BR>

	<CENTER><IMG src="images/bloemenlijn.jpg"></CENTER>	    <BR>

	<BR>
	<CENTER>
	This website is maintained by Owen and Deredere ( 
	<A href="mailto:triade@kabelfoon.nl"> triade@kabelfoon.nl</A>
	).<BR>Last update: 11 August 2002<BR>
	</CENTER>

</BODY>
</HTML>
--------------010004010803080508040008--

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Aug 11 15:19:27 2002
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From: Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 21:06:24 +0200
Status: RO

Dear Deredere,
May i be the first one to congratulate you with your beautifull
Weddingdress and your brand new website!
I think your Weddingdress is absolutely beautifull, i love the colours,
especially the rose color, my favourite colour. Your beautifull
embroidery also pleased my body, lovely work!
Congratulations Deredere, may your merrige be as happy and harmonious as
your beautifull work.

Bjarne

Deredere & Owen Iskander wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I have my own website!!
> It is still under construction, but it is my own!!
>
> You can find here the story of the making of my 16th century
> weddingdress.
> And I plan on putting pictures up of all the costumes I have made,
> and
> lots of other stuf.
> It is more work then I thought but I'm happy!
> And I hope others wil like it too.
>
> Medieval and Renaissance costumes and archery
> http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/ <http://home.kabelfoon.nl/%7Etriade/
> >
>
> Greetings,
>         Deredere
>
>
>    ----------------------------------------------------------------
>
>             Medieval and Renaissance costumes and archery
>
>
>                                [Image]
>
>
>             Index:

                 * Wedding invitation (Under construktion)
                 * My weddingdress
                 * Wedding costume (under construktion)
                 * Wedding Pictures (under construktion)
                 * Costume Galery (under construktion)
                 * Archery (under construktion)
>
>                                [Image]
>
>
> This website is maintained by Owen and Deredere ( triade@kabelfoon.nl
>                                  ).
>                      Last update: 11 August 2002
>

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 15:00:49 -0500 (CDT)
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On Sun, 11 Aug 2002, Leif Drews wrote:

> > You can find here the story of the making of my 16th century
> > weddingdress.
> >
> > http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/ <http://home.kabelfoon.nl/%7Etriade/

I enjoyed the story as much as the pictures! I wondered why you had the
picture of your cat in there, and then I read that paragraph -- EEEK! I
would have screamed too. The finished product is exquisite.

--Robin

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In a message dated 8/9/02 12:37:51 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
sustre@pixelations.com writes:


> I learned that it's legal to have, but not to sell, bird parts of 
> native but endangered species-this was discussed in an article 
> about Native American artisans using found feathers in their work, 
> noting that while such use was legal, selling the work was not. OTOH, 
> no one was busting the gallery owners who had the work!
> 

I have heard of many gallery owners being taken into federal court for trying 
to sell a piece of art with eagle feathers.  most of what you see in Native 
American art for sale are not eagle feathers but dyed turkey feathers. And 
the Dept. of the Interior has agents who  make suprise visits to galleries 
that specialize in NA art to verify the feathers in use are not endangered 
species and if they have any questions on it they impound the piece of art to 
test the feathers. 
If you ever want to create a panic at any NA festival were there are costumes 
with Eagle Feathers...try picking one up that falls on the ground.  Very bad 
thing to do.

Osmondia

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 8/9/02 12:37:51 PM Pacific Daylight Time, sustre@pixelations.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I learned that it's legal to have, but not to sell, bird parts of <BR>
native but endangered species-this was discussed in an article <BR>
about Native American artisans using found feathers in their work, <BR>
noting that while such use was legal, selling the work was not. OTOH, <BR>
no one was busting the gallery owners who had the work!<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
I have heard of many gallery owners being taken into federal court for trying to sell a piece of art with eagle feathers.&nbsp; most of what you see in Native American art for sale are not eagle feathers but dyed turkey feathers. And the Dept. of the Interior has agents who&nbsp; make suprise visits to galleries that specialize in NA art to verify the feathers in use are not endangered species and if they have any questions on it they impound the piece of art to test the feathers. <BR>
If you ever want to create a panic at any NA festival were there are costumes with Eagle Feathers...try picking one up that falls on the ground.&nbsp; Very bad thing to do.<BR>
<BR>
Osmondia</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 07:56:01 -0700
Status: RO



Melanie Wilson wrote:

> Gloves fashions change quite a lot from what I've read, I do 1870s & tend to
> wear 24 inch for evenings and wrist for day. I had problems getting leather
> gloves to fit my large modern hands so started making  various styles in my
> size, I was surprised to find so many people had trouble so now I sell too.
>

I have the opposite problem - small hands with very long fingers. On most of the

gloves that fit my hand the fingers stop not much past my first knuckle. So I
was
very surprised to find that these old gloves fit me quite well. On the other
hand they
are gold satin not kid which I understand was most common historically.

Claire

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Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 23:06:55 +0100
Status: RO

>I have the opposite problem - small hands with very long fingers. On most
of the

gloves that fit my hand the fingers stop not much past my first knuckle.

Yes I have long fingers too :( What size are you ?

>So I
was
very surprised to find that these old gloves fit me quite well. On the other
hand they
are gold satin not kid which I understand was most common historically.

Indeed

Mel


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Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 17:59:54 -0600
Status: RO

Thank you so much for sharing this with us! I just love reading people's
"dress diaries"!
I like very much what you did with your shift/chemise...I've seen
portraits with the sleeves done just that way.  And I like the blackwork
you did for your corset, but then, monochrome embroidery's really my own
favorit thing anyway...just ask Robin...she's seen some of it!
I also really liked the portrait you were using as inspiration for the
partlet you didn't get finished, but it's not one I've seen before. 
Who's the artist? I may have to -uh- "borrow" it for my own
inspiration....
I sure hope that if I ever get married, my dress will be as beautiful as
yours....
--Sue

Deredere & Owen Iskander wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I have my own website!!
> It is still under construction, but it is my own!!
> 
> You can find here the story of the making of my 16th century
> weddingdress.
> And I plan on putting pictures up of all the costumes I have made, and
> lots of other stuf.
> It is more work then I thought but I'm happy!
> And I hope others wil like it too.
_______________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Aug 12 00:13:11 2002
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Artemesia/Orazio exhibit
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Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 23:07:23 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


I thought I posted about this ages ago, but I don't see any record of a
post, so I'm doing it now. I hope it's still timely enough to be useful to
someone...

The St. Louis Art Museum is currently hosting the first major exhibit of
the works of Orazio and Artemesia Gentileschi, displayed together. The
show runs through September 15; this is the third and last stop (after
Rome and NYC). I've been twice already, even though I don't normally go
for Baroque (well, I edged into one of the styles once, and used
Artemesia's paintings as a source, so I had a little awareness of these
works).

The exhibit is breathtaking -- rooms upon rooms, more than 65 works,
including multiple versions of many of the most famous scenes, such as
Judith & Holofernes. Often the father and daughter versions are shown near
each other, so you can compare them. It was interesting to learn that for
some of the paintings, it's still under question which of the Gentileschis
was the artist.

There's also been a lecture series, a conference, etc. associated with the
exhibit.  You can find out more at http://www.slam.org -- click
"Exhibitions," and then "Featured Exhibition." If you look through all the
pages on the exhibit, you'll see quite a few nice images. Click on any one
for a closeup and detailed information, and once you're on one image you
can scroll through the rest. I don't know how long these will be up on the
site; they may disappear when the exhibit closes.

Naturally I went to the lecture about costume in the paintings ;-)  The
speaker was Carole Collier Frick, who has a book coming out this fall on
clothing in Renaissance Florence. (I'll post the book citation in my next
post, with some others.) I was impressed by the depth of her knowledge
within her field, a little skeptical of some of her statements when she
strayed outside her area of specialty. For those with that focus, the book
sounds like it will be a useful source.

--Robin


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Aug 12 00:18:01 2002
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Books on Italy, silk, etc.
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Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 23:11:45 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


I've collected a few book references that might be useful to some members
of the list. I know nothing about any of these except what you see here,
though I did hear Carole Collier Frick speak a few weeks ago (see my
previous post).


Dressing Renaissance Florence: Honorable Families, Economics, and Tailors
Carole Collier Frick
Baltimore : Johns Hopkins University Press, 2002


The silk industry of Renaissance Venice
Luca Molà
Baltimore : Johns Hopkins University Press, 2000.


La seta in Italia dal Medioevo al Seicento : dal baco al drappo 
Luca Molà, Reinhold C. Mueller, Claudio Zanier
Venezia : Marsilio, 2000.


--Robin

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Aug 12 00:43:07 2002
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Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 22:43:05 -0600
Status: RO

Oh, fine...ruin my book budget right before I go to Europe.  Geez! ;-P
--sue, who gets to go to the bank tomorrow and put in her "order" for
Euros and pounds.....

Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
> I've collected a few book references that might be useful to some members
> of the list. I know nothing about any of these except what you see here,
> though I did hear Carole Collier Frick speak a few weeks ago (see my
> previous post).
> 
> Dressing Renaissance Florence: Honorable Families, Economics, and Tailors
> Carole Collier Frick
> Baltimore : Johns Hopkins University Press, 2002
> 
> The silk industry of Renaissance Venice
> Luca Molà
> Baltimore : Johns Hopkins University Press, 2000.
> 
> La seta in Italia dal Medioevo al Seicento : dal baco al drappo
> Luca Molà, Reinhold C. Mueller, Claudio Zanier
> Venezia : Marsilio, 2000.
> 
> --Robin
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Aug 12 01:48:14 2002
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Italian sumptuary laws paper
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Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 00:42:01 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


I'm going through old emails and found this interesting reference:

>         Bridgeman, Jane.  'Pagare le Pompe': Why Quattrocento
> Sumptuary Laws Did Not Work.  In Women in Italian Renaissance Culture
> and Society.  Edited by Letizia Panizza.  European Humanities Research
> Centre, University of Oxford, 2000.  Pages 209-226.

Should be useful to someone...

--Robin

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Aug 12 06:01:24 2002
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Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 11:51:45 +0200
Status: RO


--------------040104020604020304030401
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Hi,

I also like to read dress diaries. That is wy I decided to make one of 
my wedding dress.
I hope that my husband will find some time to make a diary of his costume.

You can find the painting here.
http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/secondflor/secflor15.html
A detail picture of such a parlet
http://www.marquise.de/en/1500/pics/1570_3.shtml

Greetings,
        Deredere

Sue Clemenger wrote:

>Thank you so much for sharing this with us! I just love reading people's
>"dress diaries"!
>I like very much what you did with your shift/chemise...I've seen
>portraits with the sleeves done just that way.  And I like the blackwork
>you did for your corset, but then, monochrome embroidery's really my own
>favorit thing anyway...just ask Robin...she's seen some of it!
>I also really liked the portrait you were using as inspiration for the
>partlet you didn't get finished, but it's not one I've seen before. 
>Who's the artist? I may have to -uh- "borrow" it for my own
>inspiration....
>I sure hope that if I ever get married, my dress will be as beautiful as
>yours....
>--Sue
>
>Deredere & Owen Iskander wrote:
>
>>Hi,
>>
>>I have my own website!!
>>It is still under construction, but it is my own!!
>>
>>You can find here the story of the making of my 16th century
>>weddingdress.
>>And I plan on putting pictures up of all the costumes I have made, and
>>lots of other stuf.
>>It is more work then I thought but I'm happy!
>>And I hope others wil like it too.
>>
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Hi,<br>
<br>
I also like to read dress diaries. That is wy I decided to make one of my
wedding dress.<br>
I hope that my husband will find some time to make a diary of his costume.<br>
<br>
You can find the painting here.<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/secondflor/secflor15.html">http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/secondflor/secflor15.html</a><br>
A detail picture of such a parlet<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.marquise.de/en/1500/pics/1570_3.shtml">http://www.marquise.de/en/1500/pics/1570_3.shtml</a><br>
<br>
Greetings,<br>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Deredere<br>
<br>
Sue Clemenger wrote:<br>
<blockquote type="cite" cite="mid:3D56FA7A.450E79FB@in-tch.com">
  <pre wrap="">Thank you so much for sharing this with us! I just love reading people's<br>"dress diaries"!<br>I like very much what you did with your shift/chemise...I've seen<br>portraits with the sleeves done just that way.  And I like the blackwork<br>you did for your corset, but then, monochrome embroidery's really my own<br>favorit thing anyway...just ask Robin...she's seen some of it!<br>I also really liked the portrait you were using as inspiration for the<br>partlet you didn't get finished, but it's not one I've seen before. <br>Who's the artist? I may have to -uh- "borrow" it for my own<br>inspiration....<br>I sure hope that if I ever get married, my dress will be as beautiful as<br>yours....<br>--Sue<br><br>Deredere &amp; Owen Iskander wrote:<br></pre>
  <blockquote type="cite">
    <pre wrap="">Hi,<br><br>I have my own website!!<br>It is still under construction, but it is my own!!<br><br>You can find here the story of the making of my 16th century<br>weddingdress.<br>And I plan on putting pictures up of all the costumes I have made, and<br>lots of other stuf.<br>It is more work then I thought but I'm happy!<br>And I hope others wil like it too.<br></pre>
    </blockquote>
    <pre wrap=""><!---->_______________________________________________<br>h-costume mailing list<br><a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com">h-costume@mail.indra.com</a><br><a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume">http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume</a><br><br></pre>
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From: "Apollonia Margherita" <apollonia@bellsouth.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10208120041200.8842-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Italian sumptuary laws paper
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Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 08:14:50 -0400
Status: RO

Yes!!!  Useful to me!!!!!!

Apollonia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historic Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2002 1:42 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Italian sumptuary laws paper


> 
> I'm going through old emails and found this interesting reference:
> 
> >         Bridgeman, Jane.  'Pagare le Pompe': Why Quattrocento
> > Sumptuary Laws Did Not Work.  In Women in Italian Renaissance Culture
> > and Society.  Edited by Letizia Panizza.  European Humanities Research
> > Centre, University of Oxford, 2000.  Pages 209-226.
> 
> Should be useful to someone...
> 
> --Robin
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your favourite sewing/needlework?
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Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 13:51:09 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote: > 

> I believe Teddy has some excess stash ;-)
> 
> --Robin

And, as I heard on Saturday, apparently still some of the yellow curtain
mountain left over. *G*

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: 'perfect elizabethan' was Re: [h-cost] Renaissance Faires in the U.S.
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Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 14:18:27 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Rachel <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk> wrote: >  --- N Kipar <
> To be honest I don't know how the fee scale is worked out.  I know some
> events are done more for
> love and for sponsers who are not so flush with cash.  But for people like
> the big charities, if
> they want us to do high Elizabethan then the group cannot afford to stump up
> the cash, so that
> leaves the sponsor.  Unfortunately none have yet decided to go for it.

I still don't understand it dear. Why would the GROUP have to stump up any
cash. I always thought that a costume is made/or bought by an individual, and
it is their possession and if they want to make one they do, if they don't wnat
to have one they don't. If none of you want to have one then you can't do the
high society show because none of the members ave it. Simple? Logical? Do...
maybe I am just naive. *laughs* I always thought re-enactment/living history is
a HOBBY that is verrrry expensive and knacketring most of the time but oh so
rewarding and wonderful when standing there and looking at 2000 other
re-emactors from all periods and rooting for each other. *dreamy sigh* It was
wonderful (but the organisation and the mud was horror)

> Most of what we do is demonstrations for the public, which involves alot of
> answering questions. 

Is there any other way??? 

> The hardest is the living history for school children where you have a group
> of 15 or so and you
> have to talk to them for 20 minutes.  

yep, oh I can believe that, but we don't do that because I refeuse to book such
shows. Can't be bothered, I hav a ful time job!! We all want to ENJOY
ourselves, and not actually WORK! It's a hobby.... public at an event is one
thing, but talks for children? nah.... ;-) Kudos to those who do it!
*applauses*

The trouble is we have ten groups a
> day.  That kind of event
> costs alot, but then it really just gets passed onto the schools, plus a bit.

See above, that is not re-enactment or living history how I see it, that is
work. There are a lot of people doing the history school work, Ben does it too
but that is seperate from the re-enactemnt/living history society. One thing
has nothing to do with the other (at least for us!) It is interesting to see
that some people see the re-enactment more like work and get money from it, I
met some other small groups like that. I guess it is just a different way of
life. *S* (and I can't stand kids, hehehe)

Nicole - with wig all weekend long and no probs *S*

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 15:35:25 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

Well, well, I can only say that Jean, Teddy and Tom are LOVELY! Oh, and I did
manage to meet Kate too, albeit briefly, in the courtyard during the day. Kate,
I would love to get a copy of the photos of you and me if possible. I'm sorry
that I didn't manage to meet Debbie or Freyalyn. Debbie, I looked for you on
the traders' market and couldn't find you.
Oh yes, and the promised pictures are right now downloading off the disks...
*G*

Nicole - enchanted with the fact that the h-cost members I met are even nicer
in reality as they already are online!

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renaissance Faires in the U.S.
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Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 17:30:17 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote: > > 
> 
> Not all of them, Nicole.  Several of the 15th century ones I do, the 
> public can come in dressed however they want... some do in 
> costume.  Some events seem to attract more costumed public 
> than others.

Oh I didn't know! You live and learn. :-)

> It's only organizations like stuck up old English Heretics who don't 
> let non-participants in if they're in costume....<g>

hehehhe, down with EH I shout! The individual employees were so helpful and
lovely and just as much victims of the non-existent organisation as we were.
How did you get of, as stuck in the mud as we were? it was HORROR! If the
re-enactors didn't tow away each other no one would have gone off. EH didn' do
a thing during the day for the re-enactors camping and parking, wha a nightmare
it was indeed.
Anyway, otherwise Kirby was LOVELY! So many wonderful people, it was great, and
I have loads of piccies of the grand paade from Sunday *G*

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 15:56:15 -0400
Status: RO

On Wed, 7 Aug 2002 17:48:04   
 Lee Thompson-Herbert wrote:
>
>In fact, I own a couple of those types of head coverings.  The name I've
>been told is an "al-amira" hijab.  Often the overscarf is _also_ made of
>stretchy fabric and is shaped sort of like a hood.  I've got a couple with
>fancy lace around the edges to match the skullcaps.  >
>The first few hijab on this page are amira-type headcoverings:
>http://www.almuhajabat.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?>Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=Almuhajabat&Category_Code=h

Cool!  Thanks for the info.  I hadn't seen that style of hijab before, I wish that it was possible to tell from the site where these are popular, since styles seem to be somewhat regional.  One of the things that facinates me about hijab is how varied the styles are, and how much and how rapidly they change.

>
>Similarly, the big shapeless (usually black) robes are chaador, but most
>women in Saudi Arabia and Turkey wear jilbab (a loose overjacket) 
>instead.

And as with all things fashion related, the terminology varies a lot.  In India a jilbab is called a burqua (occasionaly called a  "Saudi" or "Turkish" burqa), chador is the term used to describe a large dupatta (also called a chunni or oni) worn so as to cover the head and torso, which is not worn with a burqa.

-Katie 
---
Oz:  (pulls a animal craker out of box) Oh, look! Monkey! And he has a 
little hat. And little pants. The monkey's the only cookie animal that gets to wear clothes, you 
know that?  So, I'm wondering, do the other cookie 
animals feel sorta ripped? Like, is the hippo going, 'Hey, man, where 
are *my* pants? I have my hippo dignity!'
And you know the monkey's just, (with a French accent) 'I mock you 
with my monkey pants!'
Willow:  The monkey is French?
Oz:  All monkeys are French. You didn't know that?





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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 07:45:40 -0700
Status: RO



Melanie Wilson wrote:

> >I have the opposite problem - small hands with very long fingers. On most
> of the
>
> gloves that fit my hand the fingers stop not much past my first knuckle.
>
> Yes I have long fingers too :( What size are you ?
>

No idea, but my palm is about 7cm wide, and my handspan (eg from little
finger tip to end of thumbnail when hand is spread wide) is 20cm.

Claire

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Aug 12 18:05:17 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] More Italian references
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Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 17:04:12 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


I don't speak Italian, but the person who sent me these does, so they must
have something to do with clothing!


Marcello Berti, Lana, panni e strumenti contabili nella Toscana
basomedievale e della prima eta moderna (Lucca:  Istituo storico lucchese,
2000).

Sergio Tognetti, Un'industria di lusso al servizio del grande commercio:  
il mercato dei drappi serici e della setta nella Firenze del Quattrocento
(Firenze:  Olschki, 2002).

--Robin

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Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 22:42:08 -0600
Status: RO

Thought y'all would enjoy reading this...I got quite a laugh out of it
myself!
--Sue

>From a 1949 Singer sewing manual:
"Prepare yourself mentally for sewing. Think about what you are going 
to
do...never approach sewing with a sigh or lackadaisically. Good 
results are
difficult when indifference predominates. Never try to sew with a 
sink full
of dirty dishes or beds unmade. When there are urgent housekeeping 
chores,
do these first so your mind is free to enjoy your sewing....When you 
sew,
make yourself as attractive as possible. Put on a clean dress. Keep a 
little
bag full of French chalk near your sewing machine to dust your 
fingers at
intervals. Have your hair in order, powder and lipstick put on....
[If] you
are constantly fearful that a visitor will drop in or your husband 
will come
home and you will not look neatly put together, you will not enjoy 
your
sewing as you should."
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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 17:10:10 +1200
Status: RO

Yeah.. put on on a ball gown girls for your hubbies... never think that
maybe a bloke would be sewing eh;)

It's almost as charming as the little illustration in my Husky manual... all
green and black print with big skirts...
permission to copy it to my costuming journal? I know osme people will get a
kick out of it;)

michaela

----- Original Message -----
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2002 4:42 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: Rules for Sewing (1949)


> Thought y'all would enjoy reading this...I got quite a laugh out of it
> myself!
> --Sue
>
> >From a 1949 Singer sewing manual:
> "Prepare yourself mentally for sewing. Think about what you are going
> to
> do...never approach sewing with a sigh or lackadaisically. Good
> results are
> difficult when indifference predominates. Never try to sew with a
> sink full
> of dirty dishes or beds unmade. When there are urgent housekeeping
> chores,
> do these first so your mind is free to enjoy your sewing....When you
> sew,
> make yourself as attractive as possible. Put on a clean dress. Keep a
> little
> bag full of French chalk near your sewing machine to dust your
> fingers at
> intervals. Have your hair in order, powder and lipstick put on....
> [If] you
> are constantly fearful that a visitor will drop in or your husband
> will come
> home and you will not look neatly put together, you will not enjoy
> your
> sewing as you should."
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>


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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 00:15:03 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Mon, 12 Aug 2002, Sue Clemenger wrote:

> Put on a clean dress ... Have your hair in order, powder and lipstick
> put on....

Yeah, right. I usually sew in my underwear (or chemise) so I can try on as
needed.

--Robin


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From: "Betsy Marshall" <betsy@softwareinnovation.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Fwd: Rules for Sewing (1949)
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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 00:14:45 -0500
Status: RO

BWAH-HAH-HAA....!!!

-When you
sew,
make yourself as attractive as possible. Put on a clean dress. Keep a
little
bag full of French chalk near your sewing machine to dust your
fingers at
intervals. Have your hair in order, powder and lipstick put on....
[If] you
are constantly fearful that a visitor will drop in or your husband
will come
home and you will not look neatly put together, you will not enjoy
your
sewing as you should."

VISITORS BETTER CALL AHEAD- i TEND TO TRY THINGS ON WHILE THEY ARE IN
PROGRESS...
SO is used to it...
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Subject: [h-cost] flocked textiles
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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 00:35:31 -0500
Status: RO

Greetings,

Does anyone know when flocked textiles were first used?  Anyone have a 
ball-park date for them?

Cheers,
Danielle

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fwd: Rules for Sewing (1949)
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Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 22:35:33 -0700
Status: RO

That's right up there with mopping your kitchen floor while wearing high 
heels and stockings - same period too.

>Thought y'all would enjoy reading this...I got quite a laugh out of it
>myself!
>--Sue
>
> >From a 1949 Singer sewing manual:
>"Prepare yourself mentally for sewing. Think about what you are going
>to
>do...never approach sewing with a sigh or lackadaisically. Good
>results are
>difficult when indifference predominates. Never try to sew with a
>sink full
>of dirty dishes or beds unmade. When there are urgent housekeeping
>chores,
>do these first so your mind is free to enjoy your sewing....When you
>sew,
>make yourself as attractive as possible. Put on a clean dress. Keep a
>little
>bag full of French chalk near your sewing machine to dust your
>fingers at
>intervals. Have your hair in order, powder and lipstick put on....
>[If] you
>are constantly fearful that a visitor will drop in or your husband
>will come
>home and you will not look neatly put together, you will not enjoy
>your
>sewing as you should."
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Kayta

    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 07:12:04 +0100
Status: RO

To know you size measure around the knuckles of the hand in inches

Mel

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fwd: Rules for Sewing (1949)
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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 09:11:43 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote: > 
> On Mon, 12 Aug 2002, Sue Clemenger wrote:
> 
> > Put on a clean dress ... Have your hair in order, powder and lipstick
> > put on....
> 
> Yeah, right. I usually sew in my underwear (or chemise) so I can try on as
> needed.
> 
> --Robin

Oooohhhh Robin, you shouldn't have said that, the mental image I have now!
*grins*

Demmit, I knew I was doing something wrong, that's why i don't like the actual
sewing, I forgot to put my make-up on beforehand!
;-)

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: 'perfect elizabethan' was Re: [h-cost] Renaissance Faires in the U.S.
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 09:15:35 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote: >  
> I still don't understand it dear. Why would the GROUP have to stump up any
> cash. I always thought that a costume is made/or bought by an individual, and
> it is their possession and if they want to make one they do, if they don't wnat
> to have one they don't. If none of you want to have one then you can't do the
> high society show because none of the members ave it. Simple? Logical? Do...
> maybe I am just naive. *laughs* I always thought re-enactment/living history is
> a HOBBY that is verrrry expensive and knacketring most of the time but oh so
> rewarding and wonderful when standing there and looking at 2000 other
> re-emactors from all periods and rooting for each other. *dreamy sigh* It was
> wonderful (but the organisation and the mud was horror)

For the most part the costumes are bought, made, owned by the individual that wears them.  However
our group also has a stock pile of costumes that can be used my anyone.  These are usually for new
members who haven't got their complete kit ready yet.  Becuase the posh stuff isn't used for
anymore than one or two events at the most a year, they are subsidised by the group.  That being
said, the lucky person who gets to wear it usually also spends a small fortune on the accessories.

Re-enactment/living history is a very expensive hobby.  I've only been seriously doing it for a
year and have spent nearly £1000 just getting an ordinary kit together.  I'm still planning a
supplies shopping trip for the fair in november.  

> Is there any other way??? 
Not that I know of, and would we do it even if there was - probably not!
 
> > The hardest is the living history for school children where you have a group
> > of 15 or so and you
> > have to talk to them for 20 minutes.  
> 
> yep, oh I can believe that, but we don't do that because I refeuse to book such
> shows. Can't be bothered, I hav a ful time job!! We all want to ENJOY
> ourselves, and not actually WORK! It's a hobby.... public at an event is one
> thing, but talks for children? nah.... ;-) Kudos to those who do it!
> *applauses*

There is some enjoyment to be gained out of it though.  Just one interested group in the day can
make it all seem worth while.  To be honest its not the kids that are a problem, its the teachers.
 And you do get less of the silly questions.  We have had one member of the public come up to a
member and ask is her baby was real!  Not to mention the food, we get asked if that is real all
the time, usually when we are eating it!  I'm sure you get the same though.

> It is interesting to see
> that some people see the re-enactment more like work and get money from it, I
> met some other small groups like that. I guess it is just a different way of
> life. *S* (and I can't stand kids, hehehe)

I wish we got money from it.  I do it becuase I love it, no other reason.  I'm not in it for the
money.  If I want to make money there are alot more things that I can do!

Rachel

=====
Rachel

Tudor Bibliography
http://website.lineone.net/~reholliday/Tudor/

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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 09:40:05 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Rachel <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk> wrote: > 

> anymore than one or two events at the most a year, they are subsidised by the
> group.  That being
> said, the lucky person who gets to wear it usually also spends a small
> fortune on the accessories.

Ahhh, I see, that's interesting. We have a policy that everyone owns their own
stuff though, because I found that often when something is not owned by an
individual things are not looked after as well as they should. To prevent this
happening (and me going mad trying to get some discipline) we don't have
anything group owned.

> Re-enactment/living history is a very expensive hobby.  I've only been
> seriously doing it for a
> year and have spent nearly £1000 just getting an ordinary kit together.  I'm
> still planning a
> supplies shopping trip for the fair in november.  

*laughs* I could buy a brand new car with what I spent on everything in the
last three years. hehehe. I NEVER think about it because I'd go bonkers if I
did. 

> There is some enjoyment to be gained out of it though.  Just one interested
> group in the day can
> make it all seem worth while.  

Well, I only put up with public coz we have to *L* kidding.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 02:00:24 -0700
Status: RO

Sue Clemenger wrote:
> 

> Have your hair in order, powder and lipstick put on....

I don't care how much it will help my sewing, I am not doing it! 
Lipstick gets in my mustache!

Stephen Bergdahl
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Aug 13 05:49:19 2002
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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 05:38:45 -0400
Status: RO

Two weeks ago we went to Salem, Virginia to a competition for Drum Corps
International (DCI).  If you have never seen this it is a feast for
costumers.  Each Corp (they don't liked to be called a marching band) choose
a theme, generally a time period and perform a show on a football field to
music.  Each Corp has to do this within a certain amount of minutes.  The
flag Corp of the group is generally the ones in costume.

The corps travel all over the U.S. all summer long competing.  Each Corp has
about 100 members  from ages 16?-21 y.o.  We only saw one day of many
competitions.  We saw five of the top corps perform.  Last week, all 60
corps meet in Madison, Wisconsin for the final competition .  The final
competition  will air sometime within the month on PBS.  So check your
station as to when it airs.  I had to email my station and found out the
show air in Richmond, VA, Sept. 1.  Remember the airing time will vary by
your location.

Now... I want to tell you about the Corp that won the competition in Salem,
VA.  They had a 1940s/WW2 time.  IT WAS DYNAMIC!!!  The girls' swing dresses
were all different and perfect for the period.  The guys costume were to die
for!  Then when the men were to go in the military in the performance, they
stripped down to period *skivvies* and then dressed in uniforms.  The bands
name is the Cadets.  Watch for them.  They had the crowd hopping and
clapping ... then their finale had you in tears.  This group finished 1st
place in Salem and for the one on TV, 3rd place.  So they will be on of the
last groups you will see on TV.

Another Corp we saw was the Madison Scouts.  This is the oldest drum & bugle
Corp in the U.S. and originated from the Boy Scouts of America.  Their band
uniforms were so sharp and crisp.  Their time was Conquestor.  They used
nice Spanish armor and helmets.

The last performance we saw worth mentioning is a Corp that did a show about
Greek Gods & Myths.  The costumes were so-so.  What amazed me was instead of
twirling rifles like most corps, they twirled lighting bolt props.  They
also used the Greek column props as a great place to quick change their
costumes.

I can't wait to see what the other corps' costumes are like!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 05:39:35 -0400
Status: RO

Oh....... Stephen....... the baby must be up late!!!!!!!!!

Penny Ladnier
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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 02:51:36 -0700
Status: RO

Penny Ladnier wrote:
> 
> Oh....... Stephen....... the baby must be up late!!!!!!!!!
> 

No the baby is sound a sleep, but daddy is up late.  What are you doing
up at this hour?
-- 
Stephen Bergdahl
www.2xtreme.net/madly/Home_Page.htm

Co-Chair Costume-Con 24 Bid
www.2xtreme.net/madly/Costuming101/Costume-Con24/Frames.html

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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 10:59:02 +0100
Status: RO

> From a 1949 Singer sewing manual:
>  . . .When there are urgent housekeeping chores, do these first . . .
>  . . . constantly fearful that a visitor will drop in or your husband will
come home . . .
> . . . you will not enjoy your sewing as you should.

Anyone would think it was some sort of Forbidden Pleasure !

Linda Walton,
(High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.).

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fwd: Rules for Sewing (1949)
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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 06:31:28 -0400
Status: RO

I am heading to bed!  I am a vampire... I sleep by day!

As a member of little Raymond's fanclub.... His Daddy needs his sleep!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
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Subject: [h-cost] UK H-Cost member photos from Kirby are up!
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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 12:15:56 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

May I proudly present, the promised photos:

http://arts-humanities.cant.ac.uk/Temp/Kirby/h-cost.htm

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fwd: Rules for Sewing (1949)
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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 07:11:17 -0400
Status: RO

I can't remember the last time I wore powder or lipstick. When they come up
with a lipstick that doesn't dry out my lips, I might consider.
Mascara, now that's another story. LOVE mascara.

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2002 1:15 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fwd: Rules for Sewing (1949)


>
> On Mon, 12 Aug 2002, Sue Clemenger wrote:
>
> > Put on a clean dress ... Have your hair in order, powder and lipstick
> > put on....
>
> Yeah, right. I usually sew in my underwear (or chemise) so I can try on as
> needed.
>
> --Robin
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 07:45:09 -0400
Status: RO

Wonderful! Thank you Nicole!

Dianne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "N Kipar" <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2002 7:15 AM
Subject: [h-cost] UK H-Cost member photos from Kirby are up!


> May I proudly present, the promised photos:
> 
> http://arts-humanities.cant.ac.uk/Temp/Kirby/h-cost.htm
> 
> Nicole
> 
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
> Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: marquis@kipar.org
> 
> __________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 09:09:16 EDT
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--part1_73.240b6c0c.2a8a5efc_boundary
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In a message dated 8/13/2002 12:48:40 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
mooncat@in-tch.com writes:


> Put on a clean dress

 I used to do this, even though I'm a man, but now I just sew nude.

--part1_73.240b6c0c.2a8a5efc_boundary
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 8/13/2002 12:48:40 AM Eastern Daylight Time, mooncat@in-tch.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Put on a clean dress</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR> I used to do this, even though I'm a man, but now I just sew nude.</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 09:19:47 -0400
Status: RO

Kayta wrote,
>That's right up there with mopping your kitchen floor while wearing 
>high heels and stockings - same period too.

      Sounds like a fetish activity. :-)  Platform shoes would keep 
you up out of the water.  I wear clogs (the wood & leather ones from 
the 1970s) for mopping.

      There's a great photo of a woman at a sewing machine, topless 
and wearing a crinoline or tutu or something like that.

      -Carol
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your favourite sewing/needlework?
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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 13:23:34 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


 "Sarah Lorraine" <sarah@elizabethanlady.com> said:

> people always are quick to insist that I should do this for a
> living... Let me just say to anyone out there reading this who makes
> costumes for a living that I have nothing but admiration for you.  :)

Same here.  I get people telling me I sould sew/make costumes for 
a living all the time and I know I never could (appart from the issue 
of better costumers than I not being able to make ends meet on 
what they earn making costumes, there's the fact that I'd simply 
stop enjoying it if I *had* to do it!

Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What I bought at the Royal Opera costume sale!!
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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 13:19:32 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


Drea Leed <drea@nospam> wrote:

> Teddy,
> 
> I hate you.

<SMOOCH!>





Teddy
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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 07:58:11 -0600
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Fine, *make* me spit cereal all over the monitor screen this morning!
--Sue, ROTFLMAO....

Stephen Bergdahl wrote:
> 
> Sue Clemenger wrote:
> >
> 
> > Have your hair in order, powder and lipstick put on....
> 
> I don't care how much it will help my sewing, I am not doing it!
> Lipstick gets in my mustache!
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Yippeee! Hello everyone! It's so nice to put faces to names. 

Teddy, you look smashing in your new surcoat!

Karen

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Yippeee! Hello everyone! It's so nice to put faces to names. 

Teddy, you look smashing in your new surcoat!

Karen

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