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Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 03:27:12 -0400
Status: RO

I was asked to remind you about the Drum Corp International competition is
on PBS this weekend.  It is airing in my town Sunday at 2:00, but the time
may be different in your area.  So check at www.pbs.org .

The corp that did the great WW2/swing show that we saw last month came in
third place.  Their costumes are really fun!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] How to Browse Archive/OT crystallized ginger
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Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 09:54:15 -0700
Status: RO

I think you can always find it in Chinatown, if you have one in your city.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"Do you not know I am a woman?.  When I think, I must speak."
As You Like It; III, ii - W. Shakespeare

----- Original Message -----
From: "Genie" <kerowyn@mindspring.com>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2002 6:41 AM
Subject: [h-cost] How to Browse Archive/OT crystallized ginger


> Where can you get this.  I had some last summer and it's delicious.  But, it
> was homemade and when I asked for a recipe I was told it used a food
> dehydrator in the final part of the process.  Would health/natural food
> shops carry this??
>
> Genie
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 12:52:10 -0400
Status: RO

The best candied ginger I have ever bought came from Penzeys.com. 
I regularly buy it inthe largest size. It is in dice and ready to 
use in cookies, breads or as snack material ;-) I don't make it 
any more because the stuff I can buy is as good as I can make, 
and a lot less trouble!

If you want to make it by yourself, look up a recipe on google or:

take a nice hand of ginger, peel and slice into thin slices of 
about 1/4 inch.

In a heavy sauce pan pour 2 cups of sugar and 1/2 cup of water 
and heat. Do not boil, you are not making candy you are making a 
hot syrup. When all of the sugar has melted into the scant amount 
of water, chuck in the slices of ginger. continue to barely 
simmer for several hours, until the ginger is translucent and 
soft. Take it off the heat and let sit over night.

The next morning, take the slices of ginger out and coat them 
individually with sugar and set on a rack to dry. I put a piece 
of cheesecloth over all to keep flies and random cat hairs off. 
At this point, I suppose you could use a dehydrator, but a couple 
of days on a counter top work just fine for me. After they are 
dry, I put them into a jar full of granulated sugar so I get some 
ginger scented sugar to use in cooking.
margali

Genie wrote:

> Where can you get this.  I had some last summer and it's delicious.  But, it
> was homemade and when I asked for a recipe I was told it used a food
> dehydrator in the final part of the process.  Would health/natural food
> shops carry this??
> 
> Genie


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Sep  1 13:15:36 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 70s vintage/was website found in paper
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Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 10:00:32 -0700
Status: RO

Old you're not, Obi Wan, ('cause my corset fits just fine and I wanna keep
it that way), but rich we'd be if we'd kept our nasty 70s stuff
evidently...who knew those ugmo bright prints would fetch so much dinero?
My baby sister wants an Emilio Pucci and I can't believe what they cost or
that anyone would actually want to be seen in one...argh!

Isn't the owner of that site on this list?

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com

Theatrical Costume Design
"All the world's a stage,
and all the men and women merely players.
They have their exits and their entrances;
and one man in his time plays many parts."
W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html

----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen Bergdahl" <madly@2xtreme.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 31, 2002 11:27 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] website found in paper


> Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> >
> > >Our Saturday Lifestyle section of the paper had this website,
> > >www.Enokiworld.com
> > >They are a local couple who collected so much visiting estate sales
they've
> > >started a small business selling off the excess.  Mostly high-end
vintage
> > >fashions, pricey, but the styles are interesting.
> >
> > Thanx for posting it.  I went there and looked around.  Interesting
> > stuff.  Not very historical, but then, I'm old.
> >
> > Kayta
>
> When I was younger, my mother use to bitch about "Happy Days" and the
> 50's fashion trend.  It really got her mad that all the things she use
> to wear came back as "Vintage".  At the time I believe I told her, to
> cool it it's not a big deal.  Looking at this site, I know how she
> feels......... If dresses from the 70's are vintage, what does that make
> me?  (First person who say old, will be cursed to a life time in a
> corset that is too small!)
>
> Stephen - Sending Roses to his Mother.
> www.2xtreme.net/madly/Home_Page.htm
>
> Co-Chair Costume-Con 24 Bid
> www.2xtreme.net/madly/Costuming101/Costume-Con24/Frames.html
>
> Instructor for www.costumeclassroom.com
> Elizabethan Era Clothing and Underpinnings
> Online Classes in Historical and Modern Sewing

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Sep  1 13:35:43 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] painting of Helena Snakenborg
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Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 10:20:36 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

I've finally picked a project for the winter.  One of
my daughter's friends wants me to teach a corset
making class for agora days at the high school so I
shall start with the custom shift link on the
Elizabethan costuming page and then use the custom
corset patterns for the corset.  If all goes well I'll
teach the class in February.  If I'm going to have the
underpinnings I should have the gown.  The painting of
Helena Snakenborg at www.tudor-portraits.com really
intrigues me as it looks as if the sleeves and the
partlet? are of the same fabric.  Opinions please as
is this one garment?  How do I get the closed neck
open bodice?  AlterYears patterns show something
similar, would this work?  Is this a printed fabric or
some type of surface embellishment?  If this is all
one underdress what do I wear next to my skin to keep
the brocade fresh.  Would a printed peachskin work as
the fabric looks drapey enough to gather at the neck?
Thought, opinions, help?  I can alter a pattern to fit
my shape but I need to have the pattern piece to start
from. 
   On Eric's pregnancy bit.  I was morning sick for
six months with all three of my kids and never really
found anything that worked.  I ate alot of applesauce
and bananas for breakfast.  If the prenatal vitamins
and iron are causing the naseau try taking them before
sleeping so you can be queasy in your sleep.  And you
might as well give up on having sleep now.  It's
easier to get used to the sleep deprivation if you
start ahead of time. ;)  Cassandra having still no
sleep even though everyone is now in double digits.

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Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 21:14:49 -0700
Status: RO

You may recall that late in the Spring I told you about this group that 
wanted someone to do a program for them on the history of knitting.  I 
deferred to you, and now they have it scheduled for their November meeting.

Redwood Weavers meet on the second or third Wednesday - I don't recall which 
- and it's a daytime event which wouldn't work for me, even if I'd done the 
work, which I haven't.

The lady who contacted me - Diane Cutler - tried the phone number for you 
that I had given her (or another member) at CNCH this spring.  The number 
didn't work, and is probably way out of date.  Would you please contact 
Diane at 707-545-1883 and tell her if you are interested?

thanx,

Cordelia

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] painting of Helena Snakenborg
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Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 12:54:55 -0700
Status: RO

The painting of
>Helena Snakenborg at www.tudor-portraits.com really
>intrigues me as it looks as if the sleeves and the
>partlet? are of the same fabric.  Opinions please as
>is this one garment? 

I'm inclined to think that this is a shirt, or high necked smock, but it
could be a seperate partlet and sleeves. 

 How do I get the closed neck
>open bodice?  

Do you mean the shirt, the way it's closed at the neck and then opens over
the bosom?  That's a front slit in the shirt, spread open and held in place
by the tension of the bodice.

 Is this a printed fabric or
>some type of surface embellishment? 

I'd seriously doubt if it's printed, my guess is embroidery.

 If this is all
>one underdress what do I wear next to my skin to keep
>the brocade fresh.  

Look just above the bodice at center front, and you can see a decorated
band across the chest.  That's the neck edge of a smock with a low square
neck, worn under the shirt or partlet and sleeves.  

Would a printed peachskin work as
>the fabric looks drapey enough to gather at the neck?

I wouldn't use peachskin, it doesn't look like a natural fiber fabric, and
you'd be much more comfortable with the real thing.  Linen would be the
best choice.  

>Thought, opinions, help?  I can alter a pattern to fit
>my shape but I need to have the pattern piece to start
>from. 

In all modesty, I think your best bet for patterns can be found at
margospatterns.com.  

Margo Anderson

"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] painting of Helena Snakenborg
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Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 12:54:55 -0700
Status: RO

The painting of
>Helena Snakenborg at www.tudor-portraits.com really
>intrigues me as it looks as if the sleeves and the
>partlet? are of the same fabric.  Opinions please as
>is this one garment? 

I'm inclined to think that this is a shirt, or high necked smock, but it
could be a seperate partlet and sleeves. 

 How do I get the closed neck
>open bodice?  

Do you mean the shirt, the way it's closed at the neck and then opens over
the bosom?  That's a front slit in the shirt, spread open and held in place
by the tension of the bodice.

 Is this a printed fabric or
>some type of surface embellishment? 

I'd seriously doubt if it's printed, my guess is embroidery.

 If this is all
>one underdress what do I wear next to my skin to keep
>the brocade fresh.  

Look just above the bodice at center front, and you can see a decorated
band across the chest.  That's the neck edge of a smock with a low square
neck, worn under the shirt or partlet and sleeves.  

Would a printed peachskin work as
>the fabric looks drapey enough to gather at the neck?

I wouldn't use peachskin, it doesn't look like a natural fiber fabric, and
you'd be much more comfortable with the real thing.  Linen would be the
best choice.  

>Thought, opinions, help?  I can alter a pattern to fit
>my shape but I need to have the pattern piece to start
>from. 

In all modesty, I think your best bet for patterns can be found at
margospatterns.com.  

Margo Anderson

"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 14:27:12 -0700
Status: RO

To Genie-

Yes, it is delicious.  I eat it even when I'm feeling fine, it makes me
feel _finer_!!!

I found it at Trader Joes (good australian stuff!!), at more upscale
grocery stores (Draegers, Piazzas, maybe those are too local), also,
Safeway has a more mundane offering.  I'll bet health food stores would
have it too.

Good luck, 

Theresa Eacker

Genie wrote:
> 
> Where can you get this.  I had some last summer and it's delicious.  But, it
> was homemade and when I asked for a recipe I was told it used a food
> dehydrator in the final part of the process.  Would health/natural food
> shops carry this??
> 
> Genie
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Sep  1 18:10:52 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 70s vintage/was website found in paper
References: <4.3.1.2.20020831081515.00c764c0@mail.frys.com> <3D71B340.7F730F70@2xtreme.net> <002501c251d9$1549daf0$bc2caf40@angelap3a8d978>
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Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 14:54:37 -0700
Status: RO

No, no, no, not old!!!!  Wiser, smarter, more sagacious. Especially when
the fashion industry is trying to squeeze us back into those hideous
styles and we're too damn smart to fall for it!!!

On another tangent, I can't help thinking about some future costumers
oohing and aahing over that "wonderful, shiny, slinky stuff" the clothes
were made of in the 70's.  Remember _QUIANA_????  Yee gads.  I can just
see our futuristic brethern wracking their brains with a way to come up
with a comparable textile to approximate the look.  With any luck, those
in the future will also be wise and sagacious and never invent anything
so horrible again!!!

Theresa Eacker

Cabbage Rose wrote: (Snipping)
> 
> Old you're not, Obi Wan, 
, but rich we'd be if we'd kept our nasty 70s stuff
> evidently...who knew those ugmo bright prints would fetch so much dinero?
> My baby sister wants an Emilio Pucci and I can't believe what they cost or
> that anyone would actually want to be seen in one...argh!
> 
>
> > Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> > >(Snipping)
> > > >Our Saturday Lifestyle section of the paper had this website,
> > > >www.Enokiworld.com
> > > >They are a local couple who collected so much visiting estate sales they've
> > > >started a small business selling off the excess.  Mostly high-end vintage
> > > >fashions, pricey, but the styles are interesting.
> > >
> > > Thanx for posting it.  I went there and looked around.  Interesting
> > > stuff.  Not very historical, but then, I'm old.
> > >
> > > Kayta
> >(Snipping)
.  Looking at this site, 
If dresses from the 70's are vintage, what does that make
> > me?  (First person who say old, will be cursed to a life time in a
> > corset that is too small!)
>
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Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 20:14:53 -0400
Status: RO



My first wedding was in '81. The bridesmaids dresses were powder blue Qiana!
And of course, the groomsmens' tuxes had to match...shudder....

It was very stylish then, but I cringe when I see it now!

Dianne
Remember _QUIANA_????  Yee gads.

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From: Jonna Hayden <jonna_hayden@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Removing Chrome Dye from Leather
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Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 18:53:04 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Greetings-

Recently, my DH received a gift of a deer hide from my
Grandmother--and his little blackpowder-heart
pitter-pattered with delight.  However, he's one of those
"it must be period" kind of guys, so the color of the hide
was, ahem, a bit on the yellow side.  He asked his costumer
wife if she had any ideas about how to remove the
not-so-delightful shade from the skin.  Since I'm
elizabethan to the core, it has never occured to me to
experiment with changing the color of leather--(I'd just
buy it the right color to begin with!) so I'm a bit stymied
here.  I seem to recall that there's a method that involves
bleach and a washing machine--but that's all I know.  

Any ideas?

Jonna Hayden

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Subject: [h-cost] Busk for circa 1810-20 corset
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Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 22:46:44 -0500
Status: RO

I am making a quilted/corded corset for the early 1800's.  I am hoping that someone on 
this list will know what type of wood is best suited for the front busk?  I have never 
used a wooden busk before, so am lost as to what wood to use, and how thick it should be.
Have used reads, and metal clasp busks, and of course steel boning, but have no clue about 
wood.
Anyone know ?

Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fiber mixing in religious tradition (was: Sept-Oct 
 Piecework)
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Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 12:06:56 -0700
Status: RO

At 12:27 AM -0500 9/1/02, Robin Netherton wrote:
>I would be interested to know what procedures the testers use to
>distinguish linen from other bast fibers (which apparently are not covered
>by the rule) or even from cotton, particularly at that speed. I don't know
>any reliable means of telling linen apart from other vegetable fibers in
>blends. There are no testing labs in my area, though, although we have
>plenty of Orthodox Jews here. Based on the list of locations (and the
>stringency of the rules), I suspect this is a phenomenon primarily of the
>Hasidic community.
>
>I'm tempted to write the contact address for some tips.

I'll be interested to hear what they say.

Hmmm. I don't have a book at hand that shows this, but if I recall 
correctly, a quick peek through an ordinary microscope makes telling 
linen and cotton fibers apart really easy. Linen fibers have "joints" 
like a grass stem, because they're made from a string of cells in the 
plant. Cotton fibers don't, because each hair is a single cell, so 
they are smooth, like a garden hose. Confirmation or correction of my 
fading botanical memories appreciated...<g>
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 13:24:06 -0700
Status: RO

At 2:20 PM -0400 8/27/02, Kevin & Mara Riley wrote:
>On Mon, 26 Aug 2002, [iso-8859-1] N Kipar wrote:
>>  Hmmm.. that's fascinating, and I believe in this too, but how do you explain
>>  for example that I picked up a needle and was able to do 
>>embroidery as if I had
>>  done it all my life, but ONLY certain period embroideries, without it ever
>>  having been in either of my families (they were too poor ever to indulge in
>>  such fancies) while not having any knack for what IS in the families.
>
>(snip)
>
>Well, maybe it's not the ability to do embroidery, per se, but a general
>ability or something...
>
>For instance, it's been discovered (my hubby tells me) that fighter pilots
>are not infrequently good artists, as well.  Something about a facility
>for spatial relationships...   It would make sense to me that this sort of
>ability could be passed on within a bloodline.  And if someone grew up in
>an environment which also encouraged the further development of those
>abilities (for a sailor, the ability to read the weather, for example),
>then you'd say s/he was a 'born ____'.

There's also the phenomenon I call "crafty hands" -- someone who's 
picked up a number of hand skills over the years is likely to find it 
easier to pick up new ones. You've developed your hand coordination 
to the point that your hands "know what to do" when you tell them to 
do something new. This also goes along with a measure of confidence 
that you _will_ be able to master a new skill, because you've 
successfully mastered others. And that undoubtedly helps too.

As far as I know, if I've inherited any "hand ability" it probably 
comes from two generations of piano players (my grandmother and my 
dad). Oddly enough, although I'm definitely left handed, I can do 
certain things with my right hand that I can't do with my left -- 
pick up very tiny beads, for instance, or drum my fingers in both 
directions (little finger to thumb and vice versa).
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Play on Words
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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 14:19:01 +1000 (EST)
Status: RO

sorry this is late - I took a break from email for the
weekend. You're welcome! That was my favourite too. :)


Bella

--- Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote: >
Thank you Bella, I went with Menswear Etiquette. 
> Thank you so much!
> 
> Penny Ladnier


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Busk for circa 1810-20 corset
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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 07:18:15 +0100
Status: RO

>I am making a quilted/corded corset for the early 1800's.  I am hoping that
someone on
this list will know what type of wood is best suited for the front busk?  I
have never
used a wooden busk before, so am lost as to what wood to use, and how thick
it should be.
Have used reads, and metal clasp busks, and of course steel boning, but have
no clue about
wood.

Personally I've used a 12 inch rukler which has worked well for me, I think
it would be pine. I expect by choice you might go for something with more
spring, maybe ash would be a good choice ?

Mel

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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 08:39:12 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com> wrote: > I'm trying to track
dwon the origin of the mythical "bodice daggers" that
> used to be so ubiquitous at Ren Faires, etc.  When I first encountered
> them, I was told that they were a Hollywood invention.  My question is, has
> anyone ever seen a dagger worn down the front of a low-cut bodice in a movie?
> 
> I know it's wrong, I'm jsut trying to figure out where it came from.

Hmm... if memory serves me right (and I have been known to have been serverd
VERY wrong by it) isn't Lady de Winter wearing one in one of the 1970s (with
Michael York) Three Musketeer films?

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 08:43:29 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote: > 

> I've sent a sample of the dyed off-cut to the trader who sold it to 
> me.  He was obviously sold a dud and he'll no doubt want to offer 
> me some form of recompense for having (unknowingly) sold it on 
> to me (he's had it happen before with fabric sold to him as linen) 
> but even so.... <grump>

Oh no!!! I'm so sorry to hear this Teddy and equally glad that you told us
before I went and bought some too to dye. What a shame. Ali is nice, I am sure
he'll do something about your mis-purchase.

Nicole

=====
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Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cynthia Virtue's twins!
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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 08:46:00 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote: > For those of you who don't know already,
Cynthia Virtue has twins 
> who are keeping her from resubscribing to the list at the moment 
> but, she assures me, she will re-join h-costume eventually.
> 
> For some proof that she is still costuming take a look at her 
> adorable twins in their tunics and hoods.....
> 
> http://www.thibault.org/babies/April.html

*SQUEEEEEEEEALS*!!!
I have NEVER seen such CUTE kiddos in those tunics and hoods, my my, if I
didn't usually think that the only way I like children is roasted on a spit
with barbecue sauce, I might even think about adding one or two just so that I
can costume them. *L*

Super pics, thanks teddy for sending them.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 09:35:54 +0100
Status: RO

I seem to have had an email problem too. I took a long weekend over Bank Holiday (23-27 August) and then was unexpectedly away from my desk on Wednesday as well. Reading through the backlog of H-Costume posts, I found that they stopped with one dated Aug. 25th and I didn't get any more during Thursday or Friday. (I did accidentally disable messages for a short time as I mis-read the options on the website and thought I *had* been disabled). Have received some more today, but not very many. Was the list much quieter last week than it had been recently?


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> ddoug@catrio.org 08/29/02 02:35pm >>>
I had a little bit of an email problem yesterday and lost most of the
posts from this group from about 11am to 10pm Central. I have found
that the archives aren't very useful for retrieving recent posts. So I
was wondering if anyone out there might still have the digest(s) from
yesterday, Aug. 28th, and if they would be willing to send them to me at
ddoug@catrio.org 

Many thanks to any who can help and apologies to any who can't.

-Debra
-- 
.------------------------------------------------------------------.
|Debra Douglass          ddoug@catrio.org     http://www.catrio.org|   
`------------------------------------------------------------------'
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] painting of Helena Snakenborg
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Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 11:54:57 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> If I'm going to have the
> underpinnings I should have the gown.  The painting of
> Helena Snakenborg at www.tudor-portraits.com really
> intrigues me as it looks as if the sleeves and the
> partlet? are of the same fabric.  Opinions please

How about the URL of the actual painting so we can go straight to it 
without having to search through all the ones listed on that site to 
find it?

Teddy
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Subject: [h-cost] Fiber identification was Fiber mixing
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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 03:47:43 -0700
Status: RO

Chris Laning wrote:


Hmmm. I don't have a book at hand that shows this, but if I recall
correctly, a quick peek through an ordinary microscope makes telling
linen and cotton fibers apart really easy. Linen fibers have "joints"
like a grass stem, because they're made from a string of cells in the
plant. Cotton fibers don't, because each hair is a single cell, so
they are smooth, like a garden hose. Confirmation or correction of my
fading botanical memories appreciated...<g>

--------------------------------
I spent some time at Fabric Depot this weekend in their outdoor sale area.
So many things to my inexpert eye looked like it could have been linen, or
linen blend.  I'm just wondering if there is any handheld lens that would
allow one to look at fibers and see "joints" in linen, or scales for wool
(though that's less of a problem).

Ideas, anyone?

Regina Romsey
I had my car's alignment checked. It's chaotic evil.

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Subject: [h-cost] Its Finished!!!!!
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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 08:57:19 -0400
Status: RO

We have the A Year in Fashion: 1910: Menswear complete!!!!!!  YIPPEE!!!!  It
includes two catalogs, one for men's suits and another with men's shoes.
You might want to look at the men's shoes, some look like women's shoes.
Here is the URL:
http://www.costumegallery.com/1910/Men/Suits/  The Prince Albert Overcoat is
really nice too!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 14:12:05 +0100 (BST)
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I seemed to have missed out on a digest and am anxious to get a copy of it.  It's a few weeks old
I think but if anyone has a copy of digest #1182 could they please email it to me.  I can't find a
way of requesting old digests from mailman.

Thanks
Rachel

=====
Rachel

Tudor Bibliography
http://website.lineone.net/~reholliday/Tudor/

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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 06:35:09 -0700 (PDT)
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--- Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote:
> How about the URL of the actual painting so we can
> go straight to it 
> without having to search through all the ones listed
> on that site to 
> find it?

Even though I didn't post the original query...here's
the url:
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/T%20Helena%20Snakenborg.jpg

kate

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] H-Cost: Bodice Daggers
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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 07:30:49 +0000
Status: RO


Bodice daggers: I remember that too.

				Arlys
 
> Hmm... if memory serves me right (and I have been known to have been 
> serverd
> VERY wrong by it) isn't Lady de Winter wearing one in one of the 
> 1970s (with
> Michael York) Three Musketeer films?
> 
> Nicole


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fiber identification was Fiber mixing
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Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 09:48:18 -0600
Status: RO

on 9/2/02 4:47 AM, Wanda Pease at wandap@hevanet.com wrote:


> --------------------------------
> I spent some time at Fabric Depot this weekend in their outdoor sale area.
> So many things to my inexpert eye looked like it could have been linen, or
> linen blend.  I'm just wondering if there is any handheld lens that would
> allow one to look at fibers and see "joints" in linen, or scales for wool
> (though that's less of a problem).
> 
> Ideas, anyone?
> 
>I have a linen tester which is a very small magnifying glass made just to use
with fabric.  I'll have to get it out and try it with some linen and cotton.
I don't know if it magnifies well enough to tell the difference.

Sylvia

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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 10:16:22 -0700
Status: RO

Penny

May I just say thank you from theater costumers everywhere?  I realize that
reenactors may from time to time need to research this period or the others
you provide, but I have had occasion to need them all.  It's always a pet
peeve of mine to research a decade and find something 10 years off either
way.  Most audience member wouldn't know the dif, but I do and it drives me
nuts.

Knowing something is correct for a specific year, nevermind a decade is
fabulous, as well as fascinating to watch the trends change.  Bless your
crazy clothing obsessed heart for making this site such a useful tool.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com

Theatrical Costume Design
"All the world's a stage,
and all the men and women merely players.
They have their exits and their entrances;
and one man in his time plays many parts."
W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html

----- Original Message -----
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, September 02, 2002 5:57 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Its Finished!!!!!


> We have the A Year in Fashion: 1910: Menswear complete!!!!!!  YIPPEE!!!!
> It includes two catalogs, one for men's suits and another with men's shoes.
> You might want to look at the men's shoes, some look like women's shoes.
> Here is the URL:
> http://www.costumegallery.com/1910/Men/Suits/  The Prince Albert Overcoat is
> really nice too!
>
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com

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Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 13:03:07 -0500
Status: RO

I am looking for a historic perspective on the busk, not a modern day alternative.
My son (the art student) can plane down any wood we want, so I would rather go with 
something that is documented as what was used.  I'm going through my books, but was hoping 
someone had some practical experience with some.
-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Busk for circa 1810-20 corset
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Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 11:09:12 -0700
Status: RO


>I am making a quilted/corded corset for the early 1800's.  I am hoping 
>that someone on this list will know what type of wood is best suited for 
>the front busk?  I have never used a wooden busk before, so am lost as to 
>what wood to use, and how thick it should be.
>Have used reads, and metal clasp busks, and of course steel boning, but 
>have no clue about wood.
>Anyone know ?

I did something like that, using a slat from a fruit crate I found at a 
local farmer's market.  I had to search to find a crate of wood with a 
close grain and not too splintery or too thin, but there were piles of 
crates to choose from, behind the market stalls.  The crate had originally 
held something like grapes or tomatoes, and the wood was about 1/4 inch 
thick.  I don't know what kind of wood it was because it was from somewhere 
in South America.

Kayta

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Busk for circa 1810-20 corset
To: h-costume@indra.com
In-Reply-To: <3D72DF24.8060603@comcast.net> from "Linda J. Thompson" at Sep 01, 2002 10:46:44 PM
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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 13:43:54 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

I don't know about period specifics, but for good thickness and support
and something easy to get, I've often heard paint stir sticks (the kind
they give you free at the hardware store) make excellent busks.

.heather.


> 
> I am making a quilted/corded corset for the early 1800's.  I am hoping that someone on 
> this list will know what type of wood is best suited for the front busk?  I have never 
> used a wooden busk before, so am lost as to what wood to use, and how thick it should be.
> Have used reads, and metal clasp busks, and of course steel boning, but have no clue about 
> wood.
> Anyone know ?
> 
> Linda Thompson
> 
> Visit www.seams-to-be.com
> where Attitude is Everything

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Sep  2 18:00:43 2002
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Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 14:32:41 -0700
Status: RO

"Linda J. Thompson" wrote:
> 
> I am looking for a historic perspective on the busk, not a modern day alternative.
> My son (the art student) can plane down any wood we want, so I would rather go with
> something that is documented as what was used.  I'm going through my books, but was hoping
> someone had some practical experience with some.
> --
> Linda Thompson
> 
> Visit www.seams-to-be.com
> where Attitude is Everything
> 

It has been my experience that you need a soft, hard wood.  Something
that can be shaped by the warmth of your body, but still hold for the
most part it's shape.  The one lady here who has a busk in her 1840's
corset made of yew wood, I think.  It was the same wood used to make
bows.  It will bend when needed, but springs back when she straightens
up.
-- 
Stephen Bergdahl
www.2xtreme.net/madly/Home_Page.htm

Co-Chair Costume-Con 24 Bid
www.2xtreme.net/madly/Costuming101/Costume-Con24/Frames.html

Instructor for www.costumeclassroom.com
Elizabethan Era Clothing and Underpinnings 
Online Classes in Historical and Modern Sewing
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Sep  2 20:49:37 2002
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From: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Removing Chrome Dye from Leather
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Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 20:38:35 -0400
Status: RO

I haven't tried this myself, but someone told me that you can use RIT dye
remover to get some dyes out of leather.  If you try it, please report back!

Cheers,
Mara

At 06:53 PM 9/1/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>Greetings-
>
>Recently, my DH received a gift of a deer hide from my
>Grandmother--and his little blackpowder-heart
>pitter-pattered with delight.  However, he's one of those
>"it must be period" kind of guys, so the color of the hide
>was, ahem, a bit on the yellow side.  He asked his costumer
>wife if she had any ideas about how to remove the
>not-so-delightful shade from the skin.  Since I'm
>elizabethan to the core, it has never occured to me to
>experiment with changing the color of leather--(I'd just
>buy it the right color to begin with!) so I'm a bit stymied
>here.  I seem to recall that there's a method that involves
>bleach and a washing machine--but that's all I know.  
>
>Any ideas?
>
>Jonna Hayden

Kevin + Mara Riley

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Subject: [h-cost] Busk for circa 1810-20 corset
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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 21:10:15 EDT
Status: RO

For Melanie,

Alter Years - www.alteryears.com -- sells the wooden busks for corsets.  They 
have a wood busk for early 1800s corsets -- ash wood 2" x 1/4" x 18" for 
$4.00  There is also a tapered wooden busk of ash wood, fully finished with 
tie hole. 2" wide at top, flat back, gently curved from.  Excellent for 16-18 
century corsets and bodices.  State length: 8",9", 10" 11" or 12" --  $12.00. 
  Their address is:  Alter Years,  8960 E. Huntington Dr., San Gabriel, CA 
91775-1267.  Phone (626) 614-9400.  Fax (626) 614-9499.  They have most 
corseting and costuming supplies.

Donna Scarfe
Fyne Hats By Felicity
Period Headgear for Past Ages
www.fynehatsbyfelicity.com
 

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Sep  2 21:32:41 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Black handkerchief-weight linen -- suggestions?
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Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 21:23:11 -0400
Status: RO

Ok, folks, time for some brainstorming :)

I happened across bolt (well, 13 yds.) of 45" wide 100% linen,
handkerchief-weight, on the clearance table at Hancock Fabrics recently, so
I bought it all (evil laugh).  

If it were white, I'd have no trouble figuring out what to do with it (I
can always use another shift or neckerchief), but it's black -- a lovely,
shiny black.

I've got a few ideas percolating in my brain about what to do with it, but
thought I'd ask for suggestions.  I do events set in the 1630s, 1745, 1812,
and (one of these days) 1870.  Was linen used for women's dresses in the
late 1800s?  How about the 1900s to 1920s?  I've been looking for an excuse
to make an Edwardian endsemble...

Cheers,
Mara
Kevin + Mara Riley

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From: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Busk for circa 1810-20 corset
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Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 21:12:29 -0400
Status: RO

Linda,
I'm not certain what wood was used in the early 1800s, but my guess would
be ash or oak.  I wouldn't want a very soft wood -- I used basswood (aka
linden wood) for a busk once, and it wound up being way too flexible.  When
it absorbed moisture, it would curl outward lengthwise, which gave it a
very odd shape, like a 'c'.  I could turn it the other way and it'd curl in
the opposite direction eventually.

Here are a couple of examples:
http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/4subjectsearch/lingerie/lingerie18t
h/lingerie18.html
My woodworker hubby says this looks like either oak or ash, but probably
oak, due to the color and grain pattern.

http://www.civilization.ca/tresors/treasure/117eng.html

http://www.austintmillerantiques.com/scrim_rm1pos8.htm

Cheers,
Mara

At 10:46 PM 9/1/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>I am making a quilted/corded corset for the early 1800's.  I am hoping that someone on 
>this list will know what type of wood is best suited for the front busk?  I have never 
>used a wooden busk before, so am lost as to what wood to use, and how thick it should be.
>Have used reads, and metal clasp busks, and of course steel boning, but have no clue about 
>wood.
>Anyone know ?
>
>Linda Thompson

Kevin + Mara Riley

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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 21:18:16 -0400
Status: RO

Angela,

I am so glad you are happy with the site.  Susan and I look at it as an
adventure to uncover our past fashions.  We get a thrill of restoring the
artwork to look as good as it did when it was originally printed.  We all
know the silhouette of a period but it is great to find details... did you
look at the embellishment page and click on each sleeve.  I love finding
details like these.  These were a treasure find for me.   Gosh, I wish suit
coats had this kind of detailing today.  Manufacturers are in such a rush to
make everything today.

BTW, these manufacturers of coats and shoes were the largest suppliers in
the world at the time.  I was amazed by the different leathers used in the
shoes.  Susan is working on a ladies shoe catalog from 1922.  I can't wait
to see it.  I bought it and had it sent to her.  She has a passion for
shoes.  Her catalog tells you the styles, even down to the style of heels.

When I was in college studying costume design, my professor sent me to our
university rare book collection.  I had to leave everything outside of the
collection vault.  I couldn't even take a piece of paper to write on to view
the 19th Century fashion magazines.  A person stood beside me to turn the
pages.  That was when I decided there had to be an easier way to be able to
research past fashions.  Yes, a light bulb glowed above my head.

Susan and I are working on the 1923 band uniform website. I watched the Drum
Corp International competition yesterday with a different view.  I was
looking at all the different details of the uniforms and was thrilled to
know to official names of all the accessories.  Sounds dumb to get excited
over something so little... but I had learned something new and used it!

Our goal is to present these original publications online for people to
study so that they will know more than just what the silhouette looks like.
We feel if we present this information in a forum where a multitude of
people can study, maybe the quality of costume presentation in film,
theater, television, historic sites, etc. will become more accurate.  And
the site does attract these types of visitors.

And Angela, there are people like me, who go up to the actors at the end of
a play to look at their costumes close-up.  So please don't feel that all
your hard work isn't appreciated.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 19:11:28 -0400
Status: RO

http://www.silhouettes.com/
These folks are one of my favorite places to shop.  They have a print
catalog, and I have bought many of my linen shirts from them.  Some stuff is
polyester, but the quality is miles above some of the "other" catalogs.
-Megan


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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 11:50:30 -0700
Status: RO

At 9:48 AM -0600 9/2/02, sylvia wrote:
>on 9/2/02 4:47 AM, Wanda Pease at wandap@hevanet.com wrote:
>
>
>>  --------------------------------
>>  I spent some time at Fabric Depot this weekend in their outdoor sale area.
>>  So many things to my inexpert eye looked like it could have been linen, or
>>  linen blend.  I'm just wondering if there is any handheld lens that would
>>  allow one to look at fibers and see "joints" in linen, or scales for wool
>>  (though that's less of a problem).
>>
>>  Ideas, anyone?
>>
>>I have a linen tester which is a very small magnifying glass made just to use
>with fabric.  I'll have to get it out and try it with some linen and cotton.
>I don't know if it magnifies well enough to tell the difference.

Probably not; most hand magnifiers are 2x, 5x or 10x, and what I 
remember seeing is at about 100x.

Furthermore, it appears I was wrong about linen fibers (though still 
right about cotton). Fibers in wood often are jointed, but not those 
of linen -- they are composed of a bundle of long thin single cells, 
tapered at the ends. I am guessing that you could still tell them 
from cotton under a microscope because they have very thick cell 
walls (up to 90% of the width of the fiber -- leaving just a small 
open channel in the middle of the cell) and I don't think cotton 
fibers do that. Makes me wish I had kept a few more botany textbooks, 
though....
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Removing Chrome Dye from Leather
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Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 21:31:08 -0400
Status: RO

Hi. It depends if your husband is really trying to be "period", because
then the hide is really worthless (it sholud be brain-tanned or smoked
or both). I have found that soaking it in water gets out some of the
excess color, as well as soaking it in alcohol (the primary solvent for
a lot of dyes used for leather). Some dye removers could work, provided
the main ingredient weren't some sort of bleaching agent, which will
probably drag any moisture out of the hide. If it does work, and even if
you try the water or alcohol, make sure you re-hydrate the hide with
some sort of lubricant, such as neatsfoot oil. The problem with
chrome-dyed leather is that, inside, and wherever it gets cut, you will
see the steely blue-gray caused by the process. You may want to overdye
with a darker color, to hide the yellow. Make sure you do everything to
it that will happen out in the field (getting wet, rubbing up against
his coat, etc.) at home first, to see if the dye will come off first, so
no surprises later. Worst case, contact a big leather place like Tandy
for any product they may have. They may help, they might just want to
sell you something...who knows?  Good Luck, Mike T.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Busk for circa 1810-20 corset addendum
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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 21:41:26 EDT
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In a message dated 9/2/2002 2:27:00 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
LindaJThompson@comcast.net writes:


> I am looking for a historic perspective on the busk, not a modern day 
> alternative.
> My son (the art student) can plane down any wood we want, so I would rather 
> go with 
> something that is documented as what was used.

I'll bet any "common" wood like oak or ash. I suppose one could use pine. 
It's soft. What about cedar? Keep the moths out of it......

I actually have a corset from this period with the busk in it. It is 
completely sewn in so I'd have to take out original hand stitching to see it. 
I don't know what wood it's made from. It is hard and rigid. I can tell you 
that it is slightly curved. I mean, if you look at it in profile, it has a 
very shallow "S" shape. Gently curving out for the bust, then coming in a 
little for the waist the out again for the lower part. Not unlike a spoon 
busk of the 1880s. [because the corset comes way down on the hips, the in 
curve for the waist is nearer the top] The busk is 2" wide all the way down 
[not wider at the bottom like a spoon busk] and a little more than 1/4" 
thick. All the edges are rounded.

--part1_174.dd5d5db.2aa56d46_boundary
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 9/2/2002 2:27:00 PM Eastern Daylight Time, LindaJThompson@comcast.net writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I am looking for a historic perspective on the busk, not a modern day alternative.
<BR>My son (the art student) can plane down any wood we want, so I would rather go with 
<BR>something that is documented as what was used.</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>I'll bet any "common" wood like oak or ash. I suppose one could use pine. It's soft. What about cedar? Keep the moths out of it......
<BR>
<BR>I actually have a corset from this period with the busk in it. It is completely sewn in so I'd have to take out original hand stitching to see it. I don't know what wood it's made from. It is hard and rigid. I can tell you that it is slightly curved. I mean, if you look at it in profile, it has a very shallow "S" shape. Gently curving out for the bust, then coming in a little for the waist the out again for the lower part. Not unlike a spoon busk of the 1880s. [because the corset comes way down on the hips, the in curve for the waist is nearer the top] The busk is 2" wide all the way down [not wider at the bottom like a spoon busk] and a little more than 1/4" thick. All the edges are rounded.</FONT></HTML>

--part1_174.dd5d5db.2aa56d46_boundary--
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Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 21:41:50 -0400
Status: RO

> Bonnie also has recommended Polly Brooks' "Beyond the Myth: The Story of
> Joan of Arc," and Regine Pernoud's "Joan of Arc: Her Story." This was
> about three years ago, so there are probably other good sources since
> then.

Hi, All. You might also want to read Marina Warner's "Joan of Arc; The Image
of Female Heroism". It contains many discussions regarding the whys and
wherefores of Joan's clothing choices. Mike T.

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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 19:05:35 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Thanks Kate for getting the URL out so quick.  I'm not
usually on-line over the weekend.  
    Margo   If I make a straight smock with a high
neck and a front slit how will it get pulled open.  It
seems that if I just count on the mountains *L* to
hold the front open then it wouldn't be very
comfortable to wear.  What kind of embroidery would
you think this is?  Definitely not blackwork. And what
kind of a grid would it be on? I don't do well with
just random placement of motifs for embroidery or
beading but I can handle diagonal diamonds or squares
or half offset diamonds or whatever.  I did find some
nice linen today but the shopkeeper said she had just
ordered more weights and colors so I may wait to see
what comes in and then I don't have to risk trying to
dye  and undye the piece she has on hand.  She did
have a heavier weight piece of linen and silk (45/55)
which I would consider dressweight.  Is combining
linen and silk fibers period?  Time to get ready for
work.  Thanks.
                           Cassandra

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Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 19:22:58 -0700
Status: RO

Kevin + Mara Riley wrote:
> 
> Ok, folks, time for some brainstorming :)
> 
> I happened across bolt (well, 13 yds.) of 45" wide 100% linen,
> handkerchief-weight, on the clearance table at Hancock Fabrics recently, so
> I bought it all (evil laugh).
> 
> If it were white, I'd have no trouble figuring out what to do with it (I
> can always use another shift or neckerchief), but it's black -- a lovely,
> shiny black.
> 
> I've got a few ideas percolating in my brain about what to do with it, but
> thought I'd ask for suggestions.  I do events set in the 1630s, 1745, 1812,
> and (one of these days) 1870.  Was linen used for women's dresses in the
> late 1800s?  How about the 1900s to 1920s?  I've been looking for an excuse
> to make an Edwardian endsemble...
> 
> Cheers,

 Mara, how shiny?  If it's not too bright you could make a Edwardian
half morning.  Pair it with a soft lavender as trim, collar and
sleeves.  It would be stunning.


Stephen Bergdahl
www.2xtreme.net/madly/Home_Page.htm

Co-Chair Costume-Con 24 Bid
www.2xtreme.net/madly/Costuming101/Costume-Con24/Frames.html

Instructor for www.costumeclassroom.com
Elizabethan Era Clothing and Underpinnings 
Online Classes in Historical and Modern Sewing
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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 19:42:34 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Greetings list folk,

Does anyone know whether or not the title _Viking
Settlers in Greenland and Their Descendants During
Five Hundred Years_ by Poul Norlund is the same book
that I've heard referred to as "Buried Norsemen..."?
If not, can anyone give a concise rundown on the
differences between the books (i.e. what info they
contain)?

Thanks in advance for any discussion on this topic,

Tasha

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Buried Norsemen book?
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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 23:30:11 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Mon, 2 Sep 2002, Tasha McGann wrote:

> Does anyone know whether or not the title _Viking Settlers in
> Greenland and Their Descendants During Five Hundred Years_ by Poul
> Norlund is the same book that I've heard referred to as "Buried
> Norsemen..."? If not, can anyone give a concise rundown on the
> differences between the books (i.e. what info they contain)?

Two different books. I haven't seen "Viking Settlers," but my vague
recollection is that it's a shorter, more popularized version of the full
study report ("Buried Norsemen at Herjolfsnes") from the Greenland
expedition.

I bet Heather can tell us more.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] painting of Helena Snakenborg
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Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 21:48:11 -0700
Status: RO

At 07:05 PM 09/02/2002 -0700, Cascio Michael wrote:

>    Margo   If I make a straight smock with a high
>neck and a front slit how will it get pulled open.  It
>seems that if I just count on the mountains *L* to
>hold the front open then it wouldn't be very
>comfortable to wear.  

The bodice should be tight enough to hold it in place.  The order of layers
would be, skin, low necked smock, pair of bodies (corset), shirt or
partlet, bodice.  No, it's not comfortable to wear by modern T-shirt
standards, but it's not acutely uncomfortable to wear.  

What kind of embroidery would
>you think this is?  

I've never seen a reproduction of the painting tht's detailed enough to
tell the type of embroidery, but going by what was popular at the time, my
money's on detached buttonhole stitches.  This is the style that later
developed into three dimensional stumpwork.  For a nice introduction to the
technique, check out "exploring Elizabethan Embroidery" by Dorothy  Clarke.
 ISBN  0-473-03634-7

. And what
>kind of a grid would it be on? I don't do well with
>just random placement of motifs for embroidery or
>beading but I can handle diagonal diamonds or squares
>or half offset diamonds or whatever. 

It looks to me like the motifs are placed in diagonal rows, not quite on a
diamond grid.  


  She did
>have a heavier weight piece of linen and silk (45/55)
>which I would consider dressweight.  Is combining
>linen and silk fibers period? 

I haven't run across that information, but then, I haven't been looking for
it.  Anyone?

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] painting of Helena Snakenborg
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Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 21:48:11 -0700
Status: RO

At 07:05 PM 09/02/2002 -0700, Cascio Michael wrote:

>    Margo   If I make a straight smock with a high
>neck and a front slit how will it get pulled open.  It
>seems that if I just count on the mountains *L* to
>hold the front open then it wouldn't be very
>comfortable to wear.  

The bodice should be tight enough to hold it in place.  The order of layers
would be, skin, low necked smock, pair of bodies (corset), shirt or
partlet, bodice.  No, it's not comfortable to wear by modern T-shirt
standards, but it's not acutely uncomfortable to wear.  

What kind of embroidery would
>you think this is?  

I've never seen a reproduction of the painting tht's detailed enough to
tell the type of embroidery, but going by what was popular at the time, my
money's on detached buttonhole stitches.  This is the style that later
developed into three dimensional stumpwork.  For a nice introduction to the
technique, check out "exploring Elizabethan Embroidery" by Dorothy  Clarke.
 ISBN  0-473-03634-7

. And what
>kind of a grid would it be on? I don't do well with
>just random placement of motifs for embroidery or
>beading but I can handle diagonal diamonds or squares
>or half offset diamonds or whatever. 

It looks to me like the motifs are placed in diagonal rows, not quite on a
diamond grid.  


  She did
>have a heavier weight piece of linen and silk (45/55)
>which I would consider dressweight.  Is combining
>linen and silk fibers period? 

I haven't run across that information, but then, I haven't been looking for
it.  Anyone?

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Sep  3 02:56:16 2002
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From: "Jennifer Geard" <geard@verso.org>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Buried Norsemen book?
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 18:43:44 +1200
Status: RO

Tasha asked:

> Does anyone know whether or not the title _Viking
> Settlers in Greenland and Their Descendants During
> Five Hundred Years_ by Poul Norlund is the same book
> that I've heard referred to as "Buried Norsemen..."?
> If not, can anyone give a concise rundown on the
> differences between the books (i.e. what info they
> contain)?

I haven't been able to lay hands on "Viking settlers...", but I 
managed to get "Buried Norsemen..." by international interlibrary 
loan.

115 Norlund, Pöul.  “Buried Norsemen at Herjolfsnes”.  In 
    Meddelelser om Grønland.  67.  Copenhagen: C.A. 
    Reitzel, 1924. 1-270, of which the costume section is 
    [87]-192. 

    137-53 B&W photographs, diagrams and line drawings 
    of garments, textile techniques and artworks.

The authoritative publication on the garments found during excavation 
of the Herjolfsnes cemetery in Greenland, where 70 items of clothing were 
found from the 14th and early 15th centuries. Each article is described, 
gathered in classes with other similar items in categories such as “Close-
bodied Slip-over Dresses, having Centre Gores”. The items include a 
range of kirtles and gowns, hoods, caps, hose and accessories. Some of 
the garments are sized for children. The photographs and diagrams 
showing the arrangement of pieces have become very widely known in 
recreationist circles, and have had considerable impact on the 
construction of clothing. Note, however, the comments of Nockert about 
likely inaccuracies in some of the diagrams, where straight seams are 
drawn as though they are curved to give a more waisted shape to the 
fitted garments. 

Cheers,
  Jennifer

PS: Sorry for flitting in and out without proper introduction. I'm a 
librarian from New Zealand, into early music and old clothes. My 
particular thing for the last few years has been English clothing of 
the mid-14th century. JLG
==========================================================
Jennifer Geard
Wellington, New Zealand
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Subject: [h-cost] 5th Annual Online Costume Ball
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 04:03:51 -0400
Status: RO

I know h-costumers wait for this announcement every year.  You all have so
much fun at the Ball... you party animals!  So here it is...

Our 5th Online Costume Ball is now accepting entries for the 2002 Ball.  It
is hard to believe we started this in 1998.  I will accept entries from
today until Nov. 10.  The Ball will open Oct. 1.  To enter go to
www.onlinecostumeball.com and glide your cursor over the large picture.  You
will see a square with the words "How to Become a Guest."  Click on it and
you will see the directions.

If you have a webpage that shows more photos of your costumes or how you
made it, or where you wore it to, please include the URL with your email
message to me.

Please feel free to post this on other email list or messageboards.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Disappointment!
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Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 09:01:41 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> > I've sent a sample of the dyed off-cut to the trader who sold it to
> > me. He was obviously sold a dud and he'll no doubt want to offer me
> > some form of recompense for having (unknowingly) sold it on to me
> > (he's had it happen before with fabric sold to him as linen) but
> > even so.... <grump>
> 
> Oh no!!! I'm so sorry to hear this Teddy and equally glad that you
> told us before I went and bought some too to dye. What a shame.
> Ali is nice, I am sure he'll do something about your mis-purchase. 

Undoubtedly - he was as eager to see how it came out as I was.

The real shame is that it looks so prety once dyes (having the 
differrent parts of the pattern take the dye or not take it makes a 
lovely contrast to the diamond pattern)



Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cynthia Virtue's twins!
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Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 09:03:48 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> > For some proof that she is still costuming take a look at her 
> > adorable twins in their tunics and hoods.....
> > 
> > http://www.thibault.org/babies/April.html
> 
> *SQUEEEEEEEEALS*!!!
> I have NEVER seen such CUTE kiddos in those tunics and hoods, my
> my, if I didn't usually think that the only way I like children is
> roasted on a spit with barbecue sauce, I might even think about
> adding one or two just so that I can costume them. *L* 

Oooh, Scary! 
 
> Super pics, thanks teddy for sending them.

Welcome.  Cynthia showed them to me and I just *had* to let the 
list know.



Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: url for painting of Helena Snakenborg
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Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 09:10:05 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Even though I didn't post the original query...here's
> the url:
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/T%20Helena%20Snakenborg.jpg

Thanks Kate!!...<goes to look>

Oh, *that one*.... I thought she was one of the "unknown girl" 
paintings.

How long has she been identified as Helena Snakenborg?

Anyhow, lovely shirt (or partlet and matching sleeves - personally I 
think shirt would be easier/less fuss to don than fiddling with 
tucking in a partlet and lacing in sleeves, but it's anyones guess as 
to which it actually is)  The embroidery of those flowers could take 
an *age* though.



Teddy
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 09:19:20 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote: > 

> The real shame is that it looks so prety once dyes (having the 
> differrent parts of the pattern take the dye or not take it makes a 
> lovely contrast to the diamond pattern)

How much polyester is in it do you think? I was just wondering, if you want to
get rid of some (dyed) I would be happy to buy it off you, because I'd like to
make some historical-looking mundane clothing, a cloak and bits like that and
wouldn't mind a tad of polyester in that. (though not in something that's close
to the skin of course. Yuck, I HATE polyester, makes me feel icky and stinky
and clingy)

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 5th Annual Online Costume Ball
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 09:22:18 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote: > I know h-costumers wait
for this announcement every year.  You all have so
> much fun at the Ball... you party animals!  So here it is...

Wheehee, Penny, I was looking forward to that. Now off to try decide on my
currently favourite piccie. Hmmmm.... may it be two of different period
costumes? 

Nicole - bouncing excitedly

=====
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Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 09:34:54 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote: > 

> > roasted on a spit with barbecue sauce, I might even think about
> > adding one or two just so that I can costume them. *L* 
> 
> Oooh, Scary! 

Nah, don't worry, I just meant as addition to my re-enactment kit *G* kind of
borrow-the-costumed-kids-from-a-friend thingy. Does my best friend have a kid
yet though? No! ha! I keep trying to urge her on, I want to become an aunt, you
know, the mad-aunti-type, the one with the really strange gifts for christmas
and birthdays, the one that lets them eat all the stuff that mum says is
unhealthy and allows them to stay up too long. *LOL*

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 05:17:03 -0400
Status: RO

Nicole........  don't run so fast!!!!  Your wig feel off!!!!!!!!  <<<picking
it up and dusting it off>>>  You are throwing your gowns everywhere Nicole!

I am tickled to say that Kate Pinner sent me photos of her daughter in her
bubble wrap prom dress to be in the Ball!!!!!!  And a guy who calls himself
"Pinhead" is at the ball.  He has a skull cap made of straight pins.  We may
need some chaperones to keep him away from Kate's daughter.

Doesn't everyone hope Teddy will make his first appearance at the Ball!!!!!!
Come on... cheer him on, so he will appear.  Teddy you could bring the
twins.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Black handkerchief-weight linen -- suggestions?
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Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 10:48:22 +0000 (GMT)
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>  Mara, how shiny?  If it's not too bright you could make a Edwardian
> half morning.  Pair it with a soft lavender as trim, collar and
> sleeves.  It would be stunning.

Mmmmmm... Nice


Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] painting of Helena Snakenborg
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Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 10:55:41 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Not Margo, but answering anyway...

> Thanks Kate for getting the URL out so quick.  I'm not usually
> on-line over the weekend.  Margo   If I make a straight smock with
> a high neck and a front slit how will it get pulled open. 

Not front slit - open at the front - make it open all the way down like 
a shirt (or a longer slit if you prefer, but that might sit "funny" lower 
down if you have the top pulled open) 

> It seems that if I just count on the mountains *L* to hold the
> front open then it wouldn't be very comfortable to wear.

The bodice should fit well enough to hold it in place.

> She did have a heavier weight piece of linen and silk (45/55) which
> I would consider dressweight. Is combining linen and silk fibers
> period?  Time to get ready for work.  

I don't know if it's period (sounds plausible) but who'se gonna know 
anyway unless they do a fibre analysis on the garment?  if you like 
the fabric and it's a reasonable weight for the gown and looks the 
part, then go for it.

Just remember to keep us posted on how it goes and what it 
comes out like...<G>


Teddy
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Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 11:03:11 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> > The real shame is that it looks so prety once dyes (having the
> > differrent parts of the pattern take the dye or not take it makes a
> > lovely contrast to the diamond pattern)
> 
> How much polyester is in it do you think? 

Well, I suspect it's nylon rather than polyester (the cut edges are 
'fuzzy' like the fuzzy-nylon thread sold for overlockers) and it's 50 
percent that and 50 percent natural fibre (cotton or linen, hard to 
tell, but definately natural fibre ase it took the dye)

> was just wondering, if you want to get rid of some (dyed) I would
> be happy to buy it off you, because I'd like to make some
> historical-looking mundane clothing, a cloak and bits like that and
> wouldn't mind a tad of polyester in that. (though not in something
> that's close to the skin of course. Yuck, I HATE polyester, makes
> me feel icky and stinky and clingy) 

Well, I have a 5 metre uncut length of it that I could dye whatever 
colour you want , plus the two half-circles I cut to make the body of 
the houpellande (plus wheeel pieces to finish them), either of which 
could be used for a half-circle cloak, though they'd need cutting 
down a bit as they're wider than the width of the fabric.. wou would 
be too long for you at that size. 



Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cynthia Virtue's twins!
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> > Oooh, Scary! 
> 
> Nah, don't worry, I just meant as addition to my re-enactment kit
> *G* kind of borrow-the-costumed-kids-from-a-friend thingy. Does my
> best friend have a kid yet though? No! ha! I keep trying to urge
> her on, I want to become an aunt, you know, the mad-aunti-type, the
> one with the really strange gifts for christmas and birthdays, the
> one that lets them eat all the stuff that mum says is unhealthy and
> allows them to stay up too long. *LOL* 

Lucky for me, I have two godchildren.  Both in re-enactment 
families...<G>

Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: url for painting of Helena Snakenborg
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--- Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote:
>
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/T%20Helena%20Snakenborg.jpg
> 
> Thanks Kate!!...<goes to look>
> 
> Oh, *that one*.... I thought she was one of the
> "unknown girl" 
> paintings.
> 
> How long has she been identified as Helena
> Snakenborg?

I don't think that it's been too long (and it's still
a tentative id). When I visited London 3 years ago,
she was still an "unknown girl." I remember seeing the
portrait at the Tate Gallery and being thrilled to see
her up close! 

Years ago, someone that I know actually did re-create
the gown, smock and partlet, embroidery and all. If I
recall correctly, it took her the better part of a
year to embroider all of the flowers. She used perl
cotton and made them about 2" long.

Sorry, there are no photos of it.

kate






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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Historic Costuming <historic-costuming@yahoogroups.com>,
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 14:23:04 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

This link was sent to another list I am on and I am reposting it for you all to drool over!

http://embroidery.embroiderersguild.com/2002-5/muntus.htm

Rachel

=====
Rachel

Tudor Bibliography
http://website.lineone.net/~reholliday/Tudor/

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Subject: [h-cost] Alter Years Contact details pls
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Can't seem to get the Alter years site to work, anyone know if there is =
a problem ? Or do you know their fax no ?

Mel
This e-mail, and any attachment, is confidential. If you have received
it in error, please delete it from your system, do not use or disclose
the information in any way, and notify me immediately. The contents of
this message may contain personal views which are not the views of the
Company, unless specifically stated.
Tel: +44 116 260 4442=20
Fax:  +44 116 260 1396=20

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Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 08:44:43 -0500
Status: RO

Wow, more information than I was hoping for. This list is such an amazing source.  We have 
decided to use oak. And the 1/4" inch depth sounds best.

Albert, do you think the "S" bend was created by wearing the corset, or prior to insertion 
in the corset? There would be moisture and warmth, which is what it takes to bend wood.

I am going to picture document what I am doing and will put it up in a section on my site. 
  I won't get to actually see this on a person.  It is going to a museum for a curator to 
wear under a gown for re-enactment purposes.

Thank you again everyone.
-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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In a message dated 9/3/2002 10:22:07 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
LindaJThompson@comcast.net writes:


> Albert, do you think the "S" bend was created by wearing the corset, or 
> prior to insertion 
> in the corset? There would be moisture and warmth, which is what it takes 
> to bend wood.
> 

I think it's carved that way. The wood is very hard.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 9/3/2002 10:22:07 AM Eastern Daylight Time, LindaJThompson@comcast.net writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Albert, do you think the "S" bend was created by wearing the corset, or prior to insertion 
<BR>in the corset? There would be moisture and warmth, which is what it takes to bend wood.
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>I think it's carved that way. The wood is very hard.</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 22:05:06 -0700
Status: RO

At 10:23 PM -0400 8/31/02, leigh tartaglio wrote:
>Hi, Chris. I have seen pieces in the tradition you describe, in white and blue
>cotton for men's caps for use in the mosque and street wear. I was 
>curious also
>because Muslim laws follow some Jewish and Christian ideas, and there is a
>Levitical ban on mixing wool and linen in Jewish tradition. I wondered whether
>this might translate over in some way to wool and cotton, and from Judaism to
>Islam. I have talked it over with some folks, and no-one really seems to be an
>expert on Levitic Law, and so doesn't know why this ban was created 
>(says Mike in
>the hopes of getting an answer from the list). Again, good job on the article.
>Mike T.

As another data point -- in Coptic Egyptian wool embroideries of the 
6-8th century or so, the white parts of the embroidery are typically 
done in white linen.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 12:39:13 -0400
Status: RO



I haven't read any Levitical commentary lately, but the last time I did I
remember reading that one purpose postulated for this and many of the
similar bans was to differentiate the Israelites from other tribes in the
area. They were the chosen people, so they had to dress, eat and act
differently from other peoples. Of course, as previously noted, God (if you
believe that the laws came from God) didn't give a reason.

Gail Finke
Cincinnati

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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 19:50:44 +0100
Status: RO

On 3 Sep 2002 at 14:23, Rachel wrote:

> This link was sent to another list I am on and I am reposting it for
> you all to drool over!
> 
> http://embroidery.embroiderersguild.com/2002-5/muntus.htm

Ooohh...... drooling.... and how many years did 
*that* take, I wonder?


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Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 13:08:21 -0700
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> > This link was sent to another list I am on and I am reposting it for
> > you all to drool over!
> >
> > http://embroidery.embroiderersguild.com/2002-5/muntus.htm
>
>Ooohh...... drooling.... and how many years did
>*that* take, I wonder?

It says at the bottom of the page.


Kayta

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Buried Norsemen book?
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 11:16:42 -0700
Status: RO

At 11:30 PM -0500 9/2/02, Robin Netherton wrote:
>On Mon, 2 Sep 2002, Tasha McGann wrote:
>
>>  Does anyone know whether or not the title _Viking Settlers in
>>  Greenland and Their Descendants During Five Hundred Years_ by Poul
>>  Norlund is the same book that I've heard referred to as "Buried
>>  Norsemen..."? If not, can anyone give a concise rundown on the
>>  differences between the books (i.e. what info they contain)?
>
>Two different books. I haven't seen "Viking Settlers," but my vague
>recollection is that it's a shorter, more popularized version of the full
>study report ("Buried Norsemen at Herjolfsnes") from the Greenland
>expedition.
>
>I bet Heather can tell us more.

<oh no!  I'm going to disappoint Robin!>

I haven't looked at the "Viking Settlers" book, but it's definitely a 
different book from "Buried Norsemen at Herjolfsnes".  Norlund was a 
fairly prolific writer and has other books of interest to historic 
costumers, although not necessarily in English.

Heather
-- 
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 15:42:30 -0500
Status: RO

Sorry that message was just supposed to go to Eric Praetzel, the
archive maintainer.

-Debra

On 9/3/2002, on h-costume@indra.com, Debra Douglass wrote: 
 >>I noticed that the Aug 2002 file has been posted to the web site but
 >>when I went to download it I couldn't. The error was "You don't have
 >>permission to access /~fashion/archives/hcos02/hcos08 on this server."
 >>
 >>Could you fix the permissions, please? The cl file is readable but I
 >>am interested in the unexpurgated file.
 >>
 >>Thank you, 
 >>
 >>-Debra Douglass


-- 
.------------------------------------------------------------------.
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 17:57:13 -0400
Status: RO

The caption says she worked on it from 1995 to 1998.

Dianne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jane Williams" <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2002 2:50 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blackwork Costuming


> On 3 Sep 2002 at 14:23, Rachel wrote:
> 
> > This link was sent to another list I am on and I am reposting it for
> > you all to drool over!
> > 
> > http://embroidery.embroiderersguild.com/2002-5/muntus.htm
> 
> Ooohh...... drooling.... and how many years did 
> *that* take, I wonder?
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 13:56:28 -0700
Status: RO

Looks like three years?  Not worked all at once I am sure.  Interesting
pattern for the partlet itself.  I'd be curious about where she got it
or if she developed it herself.



**-----Original Message-----
**From: h-costume-admin@indra.com 
**[mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On Behalf Of Jane Williams
**Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2002 11:51 AM
**To: h-costume@indra.com
**Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blackwork Costuming
**
**
**On 3 Sep 2002 at 14:23, Rachel wrote:
**
**> This link was sent to another list I am on and I am 
**reposting it for 
**> you all to drool over!
**> 
**> http://embroidery.embroiderersguild.com/2002-5/muntus.htm
**
**Ooohh...... drooling.... and how many years did 
***that* take, I wonder?
**
**
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 16:04:36 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

thanks for the private e-mail with more information
kate but I couldn't get a reply to you.  the mail
daemon bounced my reply so I'll say thanks here. 
Elizabethan is way before my usual time frame so I'll
undoubtedly be coming here for lots of help.

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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 19:12:28 EDT
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How about a black chemise, done in whitework, instead of the usual white 
chemise done in blackwork?  Maybe a reverse-image Tudor or Elizabethan, 
perhaps?  Sigh...

Ramona

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>How about a black chemise, done in whitework, instead of the usual white chemise done in blackwork? &nbsp;Maybe a reverse-image Tudor or Elizabethan, perhaps? &nbsp;Sigh...
<BR>
<BR>Ramona</FONT></HTML>

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Buried Norsemen book?
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 18:26:29 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Tue, 3 Sep 2002, Heather Rose Jones wrote:

> >I bet Heather can tell us more.
> 
> <oh no!  I'm going to disappoint Robin!>

Not at all! I'm actually relieved to discover there's a book you haven't
read!

> I haven't looked at the "Viking Settlers" book, but it's definitely a
> different book from "Buried Norsemen at Herjolfsnes".  Norlund was a
> fairly prolific writer and has other books of interest to historic
> costumers, although not necessarily in English.

That's news to me -- the costume interest in his other books, that is. Is
there anything you know of in English?

(Not that the translation of "Buried Norseman" was a work of art :-P )

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] can't get  to kate
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 16:42:38 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

You're very welcome. :-)

I have no idea why the email addy bounced. What
address showed as From??

kate

--- Cascio Michael <rosenau5@yahoo.com> wrote:
> thanks for the private e-mail with more information
> kate but I couldn't get a reply to you.  the mail
> daemon bounced my reply so I'll say thanks here. 
> Elizabethan is way before my usual time frame so
> I'll
> undoubtedly be coming here for lots of help.
> 
> __________________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Black handkerchief-weight linen -- suggestions?
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In a message dated 9/3/2002 7:18:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
FABRICHOARDER@aol.com writes:


> 
> How about a black chemise, done in whitework, instead of the usual white 
> chemise done in blackwork?  Maybe a reverse-image Tudor or Elizabethan, 
> perhaps?  Sigh... 
> 

Actually, a black linen engagente with white work and white English 
embroidery would look fantastic emerging from the sleeve of an 1860s white 
pique sea side outfit....with black soutache braid work.

--part1_ca.10a7bfec.2aa6a298_boundary
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 9/3/2002 7:18:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time, FABRICHOARDER@aol.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">
<BR>How about a black chemise, done in whitework, instead of the usual white chemise done in blackwork? &nbsp;Maybe a reverse-image Tudor or Elizabethan, perhaps? &nbsp;Sigh... 
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR>Actually, a black linen engagente with white work and white English embroidery would look fantastic emerging from the sleeve of an 1860s white pique sea side outfit....with black soutache braid work.</FONT></HTML>

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From: "Carolann Schmitt" <cschmitt@genteelarts.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Black engageantes
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Would you mind sharing your sources for black engageantes worn with a white
outfit, or black engageantes with white trim?  The only references I've
found (so far) for black engageantes refer to them being worn with dresses
for first mourning (totally unrelieved black, often with crape trim).  Any
ornamentation on the engageantes listed in these references is also black.
I have dozens of references and a number of cdv's with white engageantes or
undersleeves with black trim, but not the opposite.

Thanks!

Carolann Schmitt
cschmitt@genteelarts.com
www.genteelarts.com


  Actually, a black linen engagente with white work and white English
embroidery would look fantastic emerging from the sleeve of an 1860s white
pique sea side outfit....with black soutache braid work.

------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C25389.19CAC7E0
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dus-ascii">


<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2716.2200" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D955122500-04092002><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =
size=3D2>Would=20
you mind sharing your sources for black engageantes worn with a white =
outfit, or=20
black engageantes with white trim?&nbsp; The only references I've found =
(so far)=20
for black engageantes refer to them being worn with dresses for first =
mourning=20
(totally unrelieved black,&nbsp;often with crape trim).&nbsp; Any =
ornamentation=20
on the engageantes listed in these references is also black.&nbsp; I =
have dozens=20
of references and a number of cdv's&nbsp;with white engageantes or =
undersleeves=20
with black trim, but not the opposite.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D955122500-04092002><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =

size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D955122500-04092002><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =

size=3D2>Thanks!</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D955122500-04092002><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =

size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D955122500-04092002><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =

size=3D2>Carolann Schmitt</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D955122500-04092002><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =
size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:cschmitt@genteelarts.com">cschmitt@genteelarts.com</A></FO=
NT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D955122500-04092002><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =
size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://www.genteelarts.com">www.genteelarts.com</A></FONT></SPAN>=
</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D955122500-04092002><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =

size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE>
  <DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><FONT=20
  face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial color=3D#000000 =
size=3D3=20
  FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><BR>Actually, a black linen engagente with white =
work and=20
  white English embroidery would look fantastic emerging from the sleeve =
of an=20
  1860s white pique sea side outfit....with black soutache braid =
work.</FONT>=20
  </FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] Linen burn test question...
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Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 20:01:01 -0500
Status: RO

I hardly ever do burn tests on fabric.  Except when trying to see if something is a blend 
of some sort.

I purchased what is supposed to be 100% Linen from Joanne's about a week ago.  So I 
thought hmmmm... this would be nice in the corset I am doing, but before I do this maybe I 
should be sure, since this is being done for re-enactment, it would be nice to be certain.

I did a burn test on a 1 inch square piece.  It burned slowly, kept smoldering after the 
flame was removed, smelled like burnt paper, made a fine, feathery sort of ash, that was 
black as midnight.  The small hand out that I have on burn tests said the ash from linen 
would be light grey.  Cotton is a light grey.
I have washed the fabric, and it seems to be linen.  I thought maybe it was Rayon after 
the burn test color, but when it washed it did not do that shrinky dink thing that any 
other time I have washed rayon happens.
Has anyone else burned linen and gotten a dark ash?
-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 19:51:57 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Robin wrote:
> (Not that the translation of "Buried Norseman" was a
> work of art :-P )

I just borrowed a partial photocopy from a friend
today, and it starts on page 87 or so, "Chapter 6: The
Costumes" (in the edition I have, which I can't cite,
because that part isn't included in what I have). At
any rate, I'm wondering what's in the first five
chapters, but I can guess they're not directly
costume-related. Can anyone clue me in? Robin?
Heather?

Thanks,
Tasha



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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Buried Norsemen book?
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 19:21:29 -0700
Status: RO

At 6:26 PM -0500 9/3/02, Robin Netherton wrote:
>On Tue, 3 Sep 2002, Heather Rose Jones wrote:
>  > I haven't looked at the "Viking Settlers" book, but it's definitely a
>>  different book from "Buried Norsemen at Herjolfsnes".  Norlund was a
>>  fairly prolific writer and has other books of interest to historic
>>  costumers, although not necessarily in English.
>
>That's news to me -- the costume interest in his other books, that is. Is
>there anything you know of in English?
>
>(Not that the translation of "Buried Norseman" was a work of art :-P )

For clothing, specifically, there's a small pamphlet:

Norlund, Poul.  1941.  Dragt.  Nordisk Kultur XV:B, Stockholm.

It's primarily on Iron Age clothing and not in English.  I think I've 
seen some other items by him on clothing, but they aren't coming up 
in my catalogs, so unless my memory has invented them they must be 
articles in larger collections.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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From: Charlene Charette <perronnelle@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Buried Norsemen book? *LONG*
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Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 22:15:14 -0500
Status: RO

Robin Netherton wrote:

> That's news to me -- the costume interest in his other books, that is. Is
> there anything you know of in English?

Here's what Worldcat has for Nørlund.  Note for those who may not be
aware:  "Buried Norsemen" is part of a very large series.  It has been
published as a single volume and bound with other volumes.  One of the
volumes deals with the skeletal deformities of the remains which
explains some of the "odd" clothing finds.

--Charlene


Title: Armour from the battle of Wisby : 1361 /
Author(s): Thordeman, Bengt, 1893- ; Nørlund, Poul,; 1888- ; Inglemark,
Bo Eric,; 1913- 
Corp Author(s): Kungl. Vitterhets, historie och antikvitets akademien. 
Publication: Stockholm : Kungl. vitterhets historie och antikvitets
akademien,
Year: 1939-1940
Description: 2 v. : ill. plates (part fold.) tables, diagrs. ; 30 cm.
Language: English
Contents: Contents.-v. 1. Text.-v.2. Plates.
Standard No: LCCN: 40-3625 
SUBJECT(S) Descriptor:
     Arms and armor -- History. 
     Arms and armor, Scandinavian. 
     Visby, Battle of, 1361. 
     Excavations (Archaeology) -- Sweden -- Visby. 
Note(s): "Published with the aid of grants from the Humanistiska
fonden."/ Errata slip laid in./
Bibliography: v. 1 p. [452]-459.

Title: Brattahlid,
Author(s): Nørlund, Poul, 1888-1951. ; Stenberger, Mårten Karl Herman,;
1898- ; joint author.; Degerbøl, Magnus,; 1895- ; Nielsen, Niels,; 1893-
; Calvert, W. E.; 1887- ; (William                                    
Ernest),; tr.
Publication: København, C.A. Reitzel,
Year: 1934
Description: 161 p. illus., map. 28 cm.
Language: English
Series: Meddelelser om Grønland, udgivne af Kommissionen for
videnskabelige undersøgelser i Grønland,; bd. 88, nr. 1; 
Standard No: LCCN: a 45-225 
Abstract: Researches into Norse culture in Greenland.
SUBJECT(S)
Descriptor:
     Northmen in Greenland. 
Geographic:
     Brattahlid (Greenland) 
     Greenland -- Antiquities. 
Note(s): "The translation of this paper had been made by Mr. W.E.
Calvert."--P. 6./ Appendices: Animal bones from the Norse ruins at
Brattahlid, by Magnus Degerbøl; Samples of slag from Brattahlid,
examined by Niels Nielsen; List of ruin sites at Brattahlid.

Title: Buried Norsemen at Herjolfsnes, an archaeological and historical
study,
Author(s): Nørlund, Poul, 1888-1951. ; Fausbøll, Annie,; 1876- ; tr.
Year: 1924
Language: English
Series: In Meddelelser om Grønland. København, 1924. 28 cm. bd. LXVII,
p. [1]-[270] illus. (incl. map) fold. plan, diagrs.; Variation:
Denmark.; Kommissionen for videnskabelige undersøgelser i Grønland.;
Meddelelser om Grønland ;; v. 67.
Standard No: LCCN: a 42-2075 
SUBJECT(S) 
Descriptor:
     Northmen in Greenland 
     Burial 
Geographic:
     Greenland -- Antiquities 
Note(s): Translated by Annie Fausbøll./ "The costumes": p. [87]-192.

Title: The churches of Soro County.
Author(s): Nørlund, Poul, 1888-1951. 
Publication: Copenhagen, G.E.C. Gad,
Year: 1940
Description: 86 p. illus., map, plans, 28 cm.
Language: English
Series: Danish churches, pub. by the Danish National Museum; Variation:
Danish churches.
Standard No: LCCN: 50-43997 
SUBJECT(S) Descriptor:
     Churches -- Denmark -- Sorø (Amt) 
     Church architecture -- Denmark -- Sorø (Amt) 

Title: Danish art through the ages.
Author(s): Nørlund, Poul,; 1888-1951, ; ed.; Struckmann, Erick, ; ed.;
Swane, Leo,; 1887-1968, ; ed.
Corp Author(s): Tidsskriftet Danmark. 
Publication: Copenhagen] Tidsskriftet Danmark
Year: 1960-1969?
Description: 90 p. (chiefly illus., part col.) 32 cm.
Language: English
SUBJECT(S) Descriptor: Art, Danish -- History. 
Note(s): Cover title./ Edited by the magazine "Danmark".

Title: Danish art through the ages.
Author(s): Nørlund, Poul, 1888-1951,  ed.
Publication: Copenhagen] Tidsskriftet Danmark
Year: 1948
Description: 90 p. illus. 32 cm.
Language: English
Standard No: LCCN: 49-17841 
SUBJECT(S) Descriptor: Art -- Denmark -- History. 
Note(s): Cover title.

Title: Danmarks historie i billeder.
Author(s): Andrup, Otto, 1881- ; Ilsøe, Peter. ; Nørlund, Poul,;
1888-1951. 
Publication: København, Gyldendal,
Year: 1969
Description: 1 v. (chiefly illus.) 27 cm.
Language: Danish

Title: Danmarks historie i billeder. Teksthæfte 1.
Author(s): Andrup, Otto, 1881- ; Ilsøe, Peter. ; Nørlund, Poul,;
1888-1951. 
Publication: København, Gyldendal, 
Edition: 2. udgave.
Year: 1962
Description: 210 p. 24 cm.
Language: Danish

Title: Danmarks historie i billeder. Teksthæfte 2.
Author(s): Andrup, Otto, 1881- ; Ilsøe, Peter. ; Nørlund, Poul,;
1888-1951. 
Publication: København, Gyldendal, 
Edition: 2. opl.
Year: 1968
Description: 362 p. 24 cm.
Language: Danish

Title: Danmarks historie i billeder. Teksthæfte 3.
Author(s): Andrup, Otto, 1881- ; Ilsøe, Peter. ; Nørlund, Poul,;
1888-1951. 
Publication: [København] Gyldendal,
Year: 1956
Description: 364-546 p. 24 cm.
Language: Danish
Title: Danmarks historie i billeder. Teksthæfte 4.
Author(s): Andrup, Otto, 1881- ; Ilsøe, Peter. ; Nørlund, Poul,;
1888-1951. 
Publication: København, Gyldendal,
Year: 1957
Description: 548-659 p. 24 cm.
Language: Danish

Title: Danmarks historie i billeder, med udblik til de andre nordiske
lande; til brug for den højere udervisning,
Author(s): Andrup, Otto,; 1887-1953, ; ed.; Ilsøe, Peter,; 1893- ; joint
ed.; Nørlund, Poul,; 1888-1951, ; joint ed.
Publication: København, Gyldendalske boghandel, Nordisk forlag,
Year: 1936
Description: [168] p. illus. (incl. ports., maps, plans, facsims.,
table.)
Language: Danish
SUBJECT(S) Geographic: Denmark -- History -- Pictorial works. 

Title: Danmarks historie i billeder, med udblik til de andre nordiske
lande; ved Otto Andrup, Peter Ilsøe, [og] Poul Nørlund.
Author(s): Andrup, Otto, 1883-1953. ; Ilsøe, Peter,; 1893- ; Nørlund,
Poul,; 1888-1951. 
Publication: København, Gyldendal,
Year: 1936
Description: [168] p. illus. (incl. ports., maps, plans, facsims.) 25
cm.
Language: Danish
SUBJECT(S) Geographic: Denmark -- History -- Pictorial works. 

Title: Danmarks Malerkunst fra Middelalder til Nutid /
Author(s): Zahle, Erik, 1898- ; Nørlund, Poul,; 1888-1951. 
Publication: København : H. Hirschsprung,
Edition: 4. udg.
Year: 1956
Description: 350 p. : ill.
Language: Danish
SUBJECT(S) Descriptor: Painting, Danish -- History. 

Title: Danmarks malerkunst fra middelalder til nutid /
Author(s): Nørlund, Poul,; 1888-1951. ; Zahle, Erik,; 1898- 
Publication: København : H. Hirschsprung,
Edition: 2. udg.
Year: 1943
Description: 329 p., [4] leaves of plates : ill. (some col.) ; 28 cm.
Language: Danish
SUBJECT(S) Descriptor: Painting -- Denmark -- History. 
Note(s): Includes index./ Includes bibliographical references (p.
[321]-324).

Title: Danmarks Malerkunst fro Middelalder til Nutid,
Author(s): Zahle, Erik, 1898-  ed.; Nørlund, Poul,; 1888-1951. 
Publication: København, H. Hirschsprungs Forlag,
Edition: 3. udg.
Year: 1947
Description: 331 p. illus., 5 col. plates.
Language: Danish
SUBJECT(S) Descriptor: Painting, Danish -- History. 
Note(s): Bibliography: p. [321]-326.

Title: Danmarks romanske Kalkmalerier,
Author(s): Nørlund, Poul, 1888-1951. ; Lind, Egmont, ; joint author.
Publication: København, Selskabet til Udgivelse af Danske Mindesmærker,
A.F. Høst,
Year: 1944
Description: 313 p. illus., plates (part col.) map. 32 cm.
Language: Danish
Standard No: LCCN: a 48-2889 
SUBJECT(S) Descriptor:
     Church decoration and ornament -- Denmark. 
     Mural painting and decoration. 
Note(s): Bibliographical footnotes.

Title: De gamle Nordbobygder ved verdens ende.
Author(s): Nørlund, Poul, 1888-1951. 
Publication: København, Nationalmuseet; (Gyldendal)
Edition: 4. opl.
Year: 1967
Description: 153 p. illus. 26 cm.
Language: Danish
Standard No: LCCN: 68-98440 
SUBJECT(S) 
Descriptor:
     Northmen in Greenland. 
     Vikings. 
Geographic:
     Greenland -- Antiquities. 
Note(s): Bibliography: p. [149]-150.

Title: De gamle Nordbobygder ved Verdens Ende, Skildringer fra Grønlands
Middelalder.
Author(s): Nørlund, Poul, 1888-1951. 
Publication: København, Udv. for Folkeoplysnings Fremme i Kommission hos
G.E. Gad,
Edition: 3. Opl.
Year: 1942
Description: 153 p. illus., map. 27 cm.
Language: Danish
SUBJECT(S) Geographic: Greenland -- History. 
Note(s): "Folkelæsning nr. 361, Aargang 1935."/ "Literaturhenvisninger":
p. [149]-150.

Title: De gamle Nordbobygder ved verdens ende : skildringer fra
Grønlands middelalder /
Author(s): Nørlund, Poul, 1888-1951. 
Publication: København : Udvalget for Folkeophysnings fremme,
Year: 1934
Description: 152 p. : ill. ; 27 cm.
Language: Danish
Series: Folkelæsning ;; nr. 361, aarg. 1934; 
SUBJECT(S) 
Descriptor:
     Northmen -- Greenland. 
     Vikings. 
Geographic: Greenland -- Antiquities. 
Note(s): Includes bibliographical references.

Title: De gamle Nordbokygder ved verdens ende : skildringer fra
Grønlands middelalder /
Author(s): Nørlund, Poul, 1888-1951. 
Publication: København : Udvalget for Folkeoplysnings Fremme i
Kommission hos G.E.C. Gad,
Edition: 2. opl.
Year: 1935
Description: 152 p. : ill., maps, plans ; 26 cm.
Language: Danish
Series: Folkelæsning ;; nr. 361; 
SUBJECT(S) 
Descriptor:
     Northmen -- Greenland -- History. 
     Costume -- Greenland -- History. 
     Costume -- History -- Medieval, 500-1500. 
Geographic: Greenland -- Antiquities. 

Title: De gamle Nordbokygder ved verdens ende skildringer fra Grønlands
middelalder /
Author(s): Nørlund, Poul, 1888-1951. 
Publication: København : Udvalget for Folkeoplysnings Fremme i
Kommission hos G.E.C. Gad,
Edition: 2. opl.
Year: 1935
Description: 152 p. : ill., maps, plans ; 26 cm.
Language: Danish
Series: Folkelæsning ;; nr. 361; 
SUBJECT(S) 
Descriptor:
     Northmen -- Greenland -- History. 
     Costume -- Greenland -- History. 
     Costume -- History -- Medieval, 500-1500. 
Geographic: Greenland -- Antiquities. 
Note(s): Reproduction: Microfilm./ Andover, MA :/ Northeast Document
Conservation Center,/ 1992./ 1 microfilm reel.
Material Type: Microform (mic)
Document Type: Book

Title: Det romerske slavesamfund under afvikling, en analyse af
underklassens retskaar i oldtidens slutning.
Author(s): Nørlund, Poul, 1888-1951. 
Publication: [København] I kommission hos V. Thaning & Appel,
Year: 1980, 1920
Description: 4 p. l., 327 p. 26 cm.
Language: Danish
Series: Variation: Slavery pamphlets: source material and critical
literature.
SUBJECT(S) Descriptor: Slavery -- Rome. 
Note(s): Microfiche (negative) Louisville, Ky., Lost Cause Press [1980?]
5 sheets. 11 x 15 cm. (Slavery pamphlets: source material and critical
literature)/ "Bibliografi": p. [323]-327./
Dissertation: Thesis--Copenhagen.
Material Type: Thesis/dissertation (deg); Microform (mic)
Document Type: Book

Title: Det romerske slavesamfund under afvikling, en analyse af
underklassens retskaar i oldtidens slutning.
Author(s): Nørlund, Poul, 1888-1951. 
Publication: [København] I kommission hos V. Thaning & Appel,
Year: 1920
Description: 4 p. l., 327 p. 26 cm.
Language: Danish
Standard No: LCCN: 24-25078 
SUBJECT(S) Descriptor: Slavery -- Rome. 
Note(s): "Bibliografi": p. [323]-327./ Dissertation: Thesis--Copenhagen.
Material Type: Thesis/dissertation (deg)
Document Type: Book

Title: Dragt
Author(s): Nørlund, Poul,; 1888-1951.  
Publication: Stockholm : Bonnier, 
Year: 1941 
Description: 171 p. : ill. 
Language: Danish 
Series: Nordisk kultur ;; 15B;  
SUBJECT(S) Descriptor: Costume -- Scandinavia -- History.  
Note(s): Danish or Swedish./ Includes bibliographies and indexes./
Reproduction: Microfilm./  Bloomington, Ind. :/ Indiana University
Libraries, Preservation Dept.,/ 1984./ 1 microfilm reel  ; 35 mm.

Title: Dragt / 
Author(s): Nørlund, Poul, 1888-1951.  
Publication: Stockholm : Albert Bonnier, 
Year: 1941 
Description: 171 p. : ill. ; 26 cm. 
Language: Danish 
Series: Nordisk kultur ; vol. 15:B;  
Contents: Klædedragt i oldtid og middelalder, av P.
Nørlund.--Stridsdrägten under forntid och medeltid, av B.
Thordeman.--Förhistoriska och medeltida traditioner i nordisk
bondedrägt, av S. Svensson.--Sted- og personregister, Sagregister av I.
Löwdin.
Standard No: LCCN: 50-4920  
SUBJECT(S) Descriptor: Costume -- Scandinavia.  
Note(s): In Danish or Swedish./ Includes bibliographical references and
indexes. 

Title: Greek and Latin illuminated manuscripts, X-XIII centuries, in
Danish collections
Author(s): Björnbo, Axel Anthon,; 1874-1911, ; ed.; Mackeprang,
Mouritz,; 1869- ; ed.; Madsen, Victor,; 1873-1941, ; ed.; Petersen, Carl
S.; 1873- ; (Carl Sophus),; ed.; Heiberg, J. L.; 1854-1928. ; (Johan
Ludvig),; Jensen, Chr. Axel,; 1878- ; Nørlund, Poul,; 1888-1951. ;
Jørgensen, Ellen,; 1877-1948.  
Corp Author(s): Carlsbergfondet, ; Copenhagen. 
Publication: Copenhagen, Marcus, 
Year: 1900-1983? 
Description: 51 p. facsims.(part col.) 51 cm. 
Language: English 
SUBJECT(S) Descriptor: Illumination of books and manuscripts --
Specimens, reproductions, etc.  
Note(s): Edited by a committee consisting of A. A. Bjørnbo, M.
Mackeprang, V. Madsen and C. J. Petersen. Greek mss. described by J. L.
Heiberg, Latin mss. by C. A. Jensen and M. Mackeprang, text rev. by P.
Nørlund, analysis of the mss. by Ellen Jørgensen, expenses defrayed by
the Carlsberg fund./ "Edition limited to one hundred and sixty copies."/
Reproduction: Microfilm./ Princeton, N.J. :/ Princeton University
Library,/ 19--./ 1 microfilm reel ; 35 mm.
Material Type: Microform (mic) 
Document Type: Book 

Title: Gyldne altre. Jysk metalkunst fra Valdemarstiden. 
Author(s): Nørlund, Poul, 1888-1951. ; Christiansen, Tage Ejler,; 1918-  
Publication: Århus, Wormianum; (D.B.K.) 
Edition: 2. udg. [med tillæg af Tage E. Christiansen] 
Year: 1968 
Description: 7, 246, 32 p. illus., 9 plates. 33 cm. 
Language: Danish 
Standard No: LCCN: 75-382148  
SUBJECT(S) Descriptor: 
     Altars -- Denmark.  
     Altarpieces -- Denmark.  
     Church decoration and ornament -- Denmark.  
     Art metal-work -- Denmark.  
Note(s): Added t.p. in English./ Summary in English./ Bibliographical
footnotes. 

Title: Gyldne altre; jysk metalkunst fra valdemarstiden. 
Author(s): Nørlund, Poul, 1888-1951.  
Publication: Kjobenhavn, H. Koppels, 
Year: 1926 
Description: 246 p. illus., 9 plates 34 cm. 
Language: Danish 
SUBJECT(S) Descriptor: 
     Altars -- Denmark.  
     Altarpieces -- Denmark.  
     Church decoration and ornament -- Denmark.  
     Art metal-work -- Denmark.  
Note(s): Added t.p. in English./ Summary in English./ "Selskabet til
undgivelse af danske mindesmaerker."

Title: København, 1888-1945. 
Author(s): Nørlund, Poul, 1888-1951,  ed. 
Publication: [København] Tidsskriftet Danmark, 
Year: 1948 
Description: 576 p. illus., ports. 32 cm. 
Language: Danish 
Standard No: LCCN: 49-21986  
SUBJECT(S) Geographic: 
     Copenhagen (Denmark) -- History.  
     Denmark -- Civilization.  

Title: Nordboproblemer i Grønland / 
Author(s): Nørlund, Poul, 1888-1951.  
Year: 1928 
Language: Danish 
SUBJECT(S)  
Descriptor: Northmen in Greenland.  
Geographic: Greenland -- Antiquities.  
Note(s): In Geografisk tidsskrift. Kjøbenhavn. 25 cm. 31. bd. (1928), p.
46-61./ Summary in English.

Title: Norse ruins at Gardar, the episcopal seat of mediaeval Greenland, 
Author(s): Nørlund, Poul, 1888-1951. ; Roussell, Aage,; 1901- ; Calvert,
W. E.; 1887- ; (William Ernest),; tr.
Year: 1930 
In: Meddelelser om Grønland. (Medd. Grønl.) Kjøbenhavn : C.A. Reitzel,
1930. 28 cm. Bd. LXXVI, p. [1]-170. illus. (incl. maps, plans) pl. ISSN:
0025-6676 CODEN: MGROAV (OCoLC)1371436
Language: Danish 
SUBJECT(S)  
Descriptor: 
     Northmen in Greenland.  
     Christian antiquities -- Greenland.  
Geographic: 
     Garðar (Greenland)  
     Greenland -- Church history.  
Note(s): "Translation of the Danish manuscript is the work of Mr. W.E.
Calvert."--p. [4]/ Bibliographical foot-notes.

Title: Norse ruins at Gardar : the Episcopal seat of mediaeval Greenland
/ 
Author(s): Nørlund, Poul, 1888-1951. ; Roussel, Aage,; 1901- ; Calvert,
W. E.; 1887- ; (William Ernest),; tr.
Year: 1929 
Description: p. [1]-170 : ill. ; 28 cm. 
In: Meddelelser om Grønland. Vol. 76 (1930) 
Language: English 
SUBJECT(S)  
Descriptor: 
     Northmen -- Greenland.  
     Christian antiquities -- Greenland.  
Geographic: 
     Garðar (Greenland)  
     Greenland -- Church history.  
Note(s): With: Rune inscription from Gardar / Finnur Jónsson, 1929 --
Animal bones from the Norse ruins at Gardar / Magnus Degerböl, 1929 --
Evidence on the extraction of iron in Greenland by the Norsemen / Niels
Nielsen, 1929 -- Diatoms from near Kugssuk, west Greenland / Dingley P.
Fuge, 1930 -- Report on the geological expedition to east Greenland,
1926-1927 / Lauge Koch, 1930.

Title: Ringsted kirke, 
Author(s): Clemmensen, Mogens Becker, 1885- ; Nørlund, Poul,; 1888-1951,
; illustrator. 
Corp Author(s): Denmark.; Kirkeministeriet.  
Publication: København, H. Koppels forlag, 
Year: 1927 
Description: 3 p. ., 36 p. illus., 23 pl. 53 cm. 
Language: Danish 
SUBJECT(S) Named Corp: Ringsted, Denmark. Kirke.  
Note(s): Plate captions in Danish and English./ "Udgivet paa
foranstaltning af Kirkeministeriet."

Title: Seks tvaersnit af Danmarks historie. 
Author(s): Brøndsted, Johannes, 1890-1965. ; Nørlund, Poul,; 1888-1951.  
Publication: København, Gyldendalske boghandel nordisk forlag, 
Year: 1941 
Description: 186 p. illus. 
Language: Danish 
Note(s): At head of title: Johannes Brøndsted og Poul Nørlund. 

Title: Seks tværsnit af Danmarks historie. 
Author(s): Brøndsted, Johannes, 1890-1965. ; Nørlund, Poul,; 1888-1951.  
Publication: København, Gyldendal, 
Edition: 5. gennemsete opl. 
Year: 1966 
Description: 188 p., 8 plates. 19 cm. 
Language: Danish 
Series: Gyldendals uglebØger,; 2;  
Standard No: LCCN: 72-383845  
SUBJECT(S)  
Descriptor: Art -- Denmark.  
Geographic: Denmark -- Civilization.  

Title: Sorø Amt / 
Author(s): Hermansen, Victor, 1894- ; Nørlund, Poul,; 1888-1951. ;
Moltke, Erik,; 1901-  
Publication: København : Gads forlag, 
Year: 1936-1938 
Description: 2 v. (1335 p.) : ill., maps, plans ; 28 cm. 
Language: Danish 
Series: Danmarks kirker ;; 5;  
SUBJECT(S)  
Descriptor: 
     Churches -- Denmark -- Sorø (Amt)  
     Church architecture -- Denmark -- Sorø (Amt)  
     Church decoration and ornament -- Denmark -- Sorø (Amt)  
Note(s): Includes index./ Vol. 2 in collaboration with Erik Moltke. 

Title: Trelleborg. 
Author(s): Nørlund, Poul, 1888-1951.  
Publication: Copenhagen] Nationalmuseet, 
Year: 1968 
Description: 38 p. illus., map. 21 cm. 
Language: English 
Series: Nationalmuseets blå bøger; Variation: Nationalmuseet (Denmark).;
Nationalmuseets blå  bøger.
Standard No: LCCN: 75-550414  
SUBJECT(S) Geographic: Trelleborg (Fortress)  

Title: Trelleborg / 
Author(s): Nørlund, Poul, 1888-1951.  
Publication: Copenhagen : Nationalmuseet, 
Year: 1956 
Description: 36 p. : ill., map. ; 21 cm. 
Language: English 
Series: Nationalmuseets blå bøger; Variation: Nationalmuseet (Denmark).;
Nationalmuseets blå  bøger.
SUBJECT(S) Descriptor: Trelleborg (Fortress)  

Title: Trelleborg. 
Author(s): Nørlund, Poul, 1888-1951.  
Publication: Copenhagen, Gyldendal, 
Year: 1948 
Description: 38 p. illus. 19 cm. 
Language: English 
Standard No: LCCN: 54-38905  
SUBJECT(S) Geographic: Trelleborg (Sweden) -- Antiquities.  

Title: Trelleborg / 
Author(s): Nørlund, Poul, 1888-1951.  
Publication: København : I Kommission hos Gyldendalske Boghandel,
Nordisk Forlag, 
Year: 1948 
Description: 296, [29] leaves of plates : ill. ; 34 cm. 
Language: Danish 
Series: Nordiske fortidsminder ;; 4. bd., 1. hefte;  
SUBJECT(S) Descriptor: Trelleborg (Fortress)  
Note(s): English summary: p. [265]-292. 

Title: Viking settlers in Greenland and their descendants during five
hundred years,
Author(s): Nørlund, Poul, 1888-1951. ; Calvert, W. E.; 1887- ; (William
Ernest),; tr. 
Publication: London, Cambridge University Press; Copenhagen, Gad, New
York, Kraus Reprint Co.,
Year: 1971 
Description: 160 p. illus. (incl. maps, plans) 25 cm. 
Language: English 
SUBJECT(S)  
Descriptor: 
     Northmen in Greenland.  
     Vikings.  
     Costume -- History -- Medieval, 500-1500.  
Geographic: Greenland -- Antiquities.  
Note(s): "Translated from the Danish by W.E. Calvert."/ Printed in
Denmark./ Bibliography: p. 156-157.

Title: Viking settlers in Greenland and their descendants during five
hundred years,
Author(s): Nørlund, Poul, 1888-1951. ; Calvert, W. E.; 1887- ; (William
Ernest),; tr. 
Publication: London, Cambridge university press; Copenhagen, G.E.C. Gad, 
Year: 1936 
Description: 160 p. illus. (incl. maps, plans) 25 cm. 
Language: English 
Standard No: LCCN: 37-14674  
SUBJECT(S)  
Descriptor: 
     Northmen in Greenland.  
     Vikings.  
     Costume -- History -- Medieval, 500-1500.  
Geographic: Greenland -- Antiquities.  
Note(s): "Translated from the Danish by W. E. Calvert."/ Printed in
Denmark./ Bibliography: p. 156-157.

Title: Viking settlers in Greenland and their descendants during five
hundred years. With a foreword by Ellis H. Minns.
Author(s): Nørlund, Poul, 1888-1951. ; Calvert, W. E.  
Publication: London Cambridge University Press 
Year: 1936 
Description: 160p. 
Language: English 
SUBJECT(S) 
Descriptor: 
     Northmen -- Greenland.  
     Vikings  
     Costume -- History -- Medieval, 500-1500.  
Geographic: Greenland -- Antiquities.  
Note(s): "Translated from the Danish by W. E. Calvert."/ Printed in
Denmark./ Bibliography: p. 156-157.

Title: Wikingersiedlungen in Grönland : ihre Entstehung und ihr
Schicksal / 
Author(s): Nørlund, Poul. ; Blüthgen, Joachim. ; Kjaergaard, Helge.  
Publication: Leipzig : Kabitzsch, 
Year: 1937 
Description: VII, 138 S : Ill. 
Language: German 
Other Titles: Gamle Nordbobygder ved verdens ende 

-- 
The discontent of the people is more dangerous to a monarch than all the
might of his enemies on the battlefield.  -- Isabella d'Este
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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: painting of Helena Snakenborg
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 18:52:58 -0700
Status: RO

At 9:10 AM +0000 9/3/02, Teddy wrote:
>  > Even though I didn't post the original query...here's
>>  the url:
>>  http://www.tudor-portraits.com/T%20Helena%20Snakenborg.jpg
>
>Thanks Kate!!...<goes to look>
>
>Oh, *that one*.... I thought she was one of the "unknown girl"
>paintings.

IIRC the identification has been an on-and-off thing -- depends on 
which authority you believe and how recently they spoke. Sometimes 
it's Helena, sometimes an "unknown lady" -- I think it's currently 
back to "unknown," but I haven't really kept up with it, nor do I 
know the evidence for and against.

>Anyhow, lovely shirt (or partlet and matching sleeves - personally I
>think shirt would be easier/less fuss to don than fiddling with
>tucking in a partlet and lacing in sleeves, but it's anyones guess as
>to which it actually is)  The embroidery of those flowers could take
>an *age* though.

It does. I know someone who did a quick-and-sloppy version (large 
satin stitch with cotton floss, as I recall) and it still took her 
several months. Note, though, that you only have to embroider the 
areas that are going to be _seen_, so it's not as bad as it might be.
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
_________________________________________________________
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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Linen burn test question...
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 19:09:15 -0700
Status: RO

At 8:01 PM -0500 9/3/02, Linda J. Thompson wrote:
>I hardly ever do burn tests on fabric.  Except when trying to see if 
>something is a blend of some sort.
>
>I purchased what is supposed to be 100% Linen from Joanne's about a 
>week ago.  So I thought hmmmm... this would be nice in the corset I 
>am doing, but before I do this maybe I should be sure, since this is 
>being done for re-enactment, it would be nice to be certain.
>
>I did a burn test on a 1 inch square piece.  It burned slowly, kept 
>smoldering after the flame was removed, smelled like burnt paper, 
>made a fine, feathery sort of ash, that was black as midnight.  The 
>small hand out that I have on burn tests said the ash from linen 
>would be light grey.  Cotton is a light grey.
>I have washed the fabric, and it seems to be linen.  I thought maybe 
>it was Rayon after the burn test color, but when it washed it did 
>not do that shrinky dink thing that any other time I have washed 
>rayon happens.
>Has anyone else burned linen and gotten a dark ash?

Hm. Have you tried the burn test again since you washed it? You could 
have gotten a color change from some sizing or finish on the fabric.

I don't know any really easy or quick way to reliably tell linen from 
cotton (or ramie or hemp). I usually rely on reading the end of the 
bolt <g> for fiber content, which of course doesn't help if you're 
buying flat folds or remnants.

I've also seen and felt enough 100% linen that I tend to rely on its 
"feel" if I don't have written information -- linen feels (as best I 
can describe it) crisper and cooler to the hand than cotton. This, of 
course, doesn't always help if the fabric has a finish on it, or if 
it's a blend. But cotton often feels warmer when you touch it than 
linen does.

Another thing that may help is something I learned from a piece of 
fabric I'm still not quite sure of (it was drapes from a thrift 
store, so no labels). It's a lovely natural-linen-like color, but I 
showed it to a friend, who promptly pulled a thread from the edge, 
untwisted it, and showed me it was made from _short_ fibers a couple 
of inches long or less. This suggests it's either cotton or 
poor-quality linen, since (she said) good linen ought to have fibers 
that are at least four to six inches if not longer.

 From a practical point of view, when you look at the information on 
the bolt, the good stuff will often say "100% FLAX linen." The term 
"linen" as used in fabric stores is now very often used to describe 
what used to be called "linen-look" fabrics. But if they say FLAX, I 
think they mean it. (However if "100% linen" is the only fiber 
described or mentioned anywhere, it's probably linen.)

And of course as Teddy can now tell us, none of these methods is perfect....
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
_________________________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Linen burn test question...
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 19:09:15 -0700
Status: RO

At 8:01 PM -0500 9/3/02, Linda J. Thompson wrote:
>I hardly ever do burn tests on fabric.  Except when trying to see if 
>something is a blend of some sort.
>
>I purchased what is supposed to be 100% Linen from Joanne's about a 
>week ago.  So I thought hmmmm... this would be nice in the corset I 
>am doing, but before I do this maybe I should be sure, since this is 
>being done for re-enactment, it would be nice to be certain.
>
>I did a burn test on a 1 inch square piece.  It burned slowly, kept 
>smoldering after the flame was removed, smelled like burnt paper, 
>made a fine, feathery sort of ash, that was black as midnight.  The 
>small hand out that I have on burn tests said the ash from linen 
>would be light grey.  Cotton is a light grey.
>I have washed the fabric, and it seems to be linen.  I thought maybe 
>it was Rayon after the burn test color, but when it washed it did 
>not do that shrinky dink thing that any other time I have washed 
>rayon happens.
>Has anyone else burned linen and gotten a dark ash?

Hm. Have you tried the burn test again since you washed it? You could 
have gotten a color change from some sizing or finish on the fabric.

I don't know any really easy or quick way to reliably tell linen from 
cotton (or ramie or hemp). I usually rely on reading the end of the 
bolt <g> for fiber content, which of course doesn't help if you're 
buying flat folds or remnants.

I've also seen and felt enough 100% linen that I tend to rely on its 
"feel" if I don't have written information -- linen feels (as best I 
can describe it) crisper and cooler to the hand than cotton. This, of 
course, doesn't always help if the fabric has a finish on it, or if 
it's a blend. But cotton often feels warmer when you touch it than 
linen does.

Another thing that may help is something I learned from a piece of 
fabric I'm still not quite sure of (it was drapes from a thrift 
store, so no labels). It's a lovely natural-linen-like color, but I 
showed it to a friend, who promptly pulled a thread from the edge, 
untwisted it, and showed me it was made from _short_ fibers a couple 
of inches long or less. This suggests it's either cotton or 
poor-quality linen, since (she said) good linen ought to have fibers 
that are at least four to six inches if not longer.

 From a practical point of view, when you look at the information on 
the bolt, the good stuff will often say "100% FLAX linen." The term 
"linen" as used in fabric stores is now very often used to describe 
what used to be called "linen-look" fabrics. But if they say FLAX, I 
think they mean it. (However if "100% linen" is the only fiber 
described or mentioned anywhere, it's probably linen.)

And of course as Teddy can now tell us, none of these methods is perfect....
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 23:47:12 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Tue, 3 Sep 2002, Tasha McGann wrote:

> I just borrowed a partial photocopy from a friend today, and it starts
> on page 87 or so, "Chapter 6: The Costumes" (in the edition I have,
> which I can't cite, because that part isn't included in what I have).

Your Xerox is from this (cutting-and-pasting from Charlene's wonderful
list):

> Title: Buried Norsemen at Herjolfsnes, an archaeological and historical
> study,
> Author(s): Nørlund, Poul, 1888-1951. ; Fausbøll, Annie,; 1876- ; tr.
> Year: 1924
> Language: English
> Series: In Meddelelser om Grønland. København, 1924. 28 cm. bd. LXVII,
> p. [1]-[270] illus. (incl. map) fold. plan, diagrs.; Variation:
> Denmark.; Kommissionen for videnskabelige undersøgelser i Grønland.;
> Meddelelser om Grønland ;; v. 67.

As Charlene noted, this is just one volume in what's essentially a journal
(Meddelelser om Grønland, or "Monographs on Greenland") in bound-book
format. The series has been running since 1879. Other volumes cover other
topics on Greenland, everything from geology to ecology to modern social
issues. You can see a full index of the first hundred years of volumes in
.pdf format by going to http://www.dpc.dk/Publications/MoG.html and taking
the link at the bottom. For more recent volumes, use the links to the left
of the page.

I've seen that photocopied section of volume 67, chapter 6 passing around
a lot of hands in SCA and reenactor circles. It's a shame that people only
look at the costume chapter! The rest of the book contains useful nuggets
that help put this material in perspective for the serious researcher. For
instance, there are analyses of the various fibers found on the bodies, as
well as some information on diet, stature, etc. and a large medical
section that tells you quite a bit about the bodies on which the clothing
is found. And if you want information on that sealskin G-string (menstrual
pad? incontinence pad?) you'll find it in the medical section, not in the
costumes.

Once I got deeply into this material, I found a lot of context, and in
some cases inconsistencies with the rather misleadingly tidy writeup of
the costumes that appears in Chapter 6. There are tables providing more
detail into the difficult issue of male/female sexing of the bodies, for
instance. I also got a better appreciation for the conditions under which
the dig was carried out -- at breakneck speed in a short digging season
while the graves were literally falling into the water.

The chapters you are missing cover these topics:

 I. Herjolfsnes, its History in Ancient and Modern Times
 II. The Expedition to Herjolfsnes in 1921. Voyage, Excavations and
Conservation
 III. The Buildings at Herjolfsnes
 IV. Burials and Burial Customs
 V. The Coffins

Chapter VI, on the costumes, is quite large and divided into sections on
general remarks, body-clothing, hoods, caps, hose, and accessories. Then
there's more:

 VII. The Tombstones
 VIII. The Wooden Crosses
 IX. Smaller Finds
 X. Did a Deterioration of the Climate occur in Greenland in the Late
Middle Ages?
 XI. Conclusion. The Decay of the Norse Colonies in the Light of the Find
from Herjolfsnes

Then there's a diagram of the positions of the finds, and a list of the
finds, a list of abbreviations, and acknowledgements.

That concludes Norlund's part of the volume. After that is a short section
on the interpretation of the runic inscriptions, pages 271-290 (I think --
I didn't copy that bit). And then the huge "Anthropologia Medico-Historica
Groenlandiae Antiquae" -- the medical section, which runs from pages
291-547. I didn't Xerox all of this; I only have the introduction and
conclusion, plus the bits that cover microscopic analysis, heights, ages,
physical defects, teeth and nutrition, coffin dimensions (useful when
trying to determine body size), and portions of the detailed descriptions
on just a couple of the skeletons. Sometimes I wish I had done the whole
thing, despite its length! But it *is* written in 1920s medical jargon
awkwardly translated from the Danish. This is not easy reading for most
people.  (Heather does have the whole book, and I'm not sure whom she had
to kill to get it.)

People who have heard my lecture on the Greenland finds know that I harp a
lot on the fact that the costume information isn't nearly as clear-cut as
it's often presented, particularly in secondary sources quoting Norlund's
work. The garments were in pieces and/or badly deteriorated. In some
cases, parts of a single garment were found in multiple graves, or part of
multiple garments were found in a single grave. In many cases we can't be
sure of the sex of the wearer, and often it's clear that the wearer wasn't
the person in the same grave as the clothing. (The gowns were used as
shrouds, wrapping the corpses, so evidently they used any available old
garment to shroud some of the bodies.) Some of the reconstructions were
problematic. My friend Shelly Nordtorp-Madson, who has worked directly
with the garments, tells me that it has since been determined that Norlund
reassembled some of the garments wrong -- though it's impossible now to
take them apart because they were glued into place with the 1920s
restorations. And I know from my own work that Norlund's own writeups and
measurements don't always match his diagrams, and those don't necessarily
produce what we see in the photos of the reconstructed garments.  People
in my audiences who are used to seeing that tidy diagram of the 12-gore
dress are often surprised to find out just how untidy the evidence
actually is.

--Robin

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Blackwork Costuming
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Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 08:43:36 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

I'd rather suspect that it is a design based on a mixture of historical patterns.  The embroideres
guild doesn't go all out for historical authenticity and instead encourages individual expression
and experimentation.  It';s still a beautiful piece but why not just do it in silk on linen, it
would look even better!

Rachel

 --- Saragrace knauf <saragrace@earthlink.net> wrote: > Looks like three years?  Not worked all at
once I am sure.  Interesting
> pattern for the partlet itself.  I'd be curious about where she got it
> or if she developed it herself.
> 
> 


=====
Rachel

Tudor Bibliography
http://website.lineone.net/~reholliday/Tudor/

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Photo of costume from painting of Helena Snakenborg
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Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 10:26:05 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> > How long has she been identified as Helena
> > Snakenborg?
> 
> I don't think that it's been too long (and it's still a tentative
> id). When I visited London 3 years ago, she was still an "unknown
> girl." I remember seeing the portrait at the Tate Gallery and being
> thrilled to see her up close! 
> 
> Years ago, someone that I know actually did re-create the gown,
> smock and partlet, embroidery and all. If I recall correctly, it
> took her the better part of a year to embroider all of the flowers.
> She used perl cotton and made them about 2" long. 
> 
> Sorry, there are no photos of it.

Jane Huggett made one some time ago - there's a photo of her in it 
with the Historical Dance group she performs with here....

http://www.hants.gov.uk/basdance/pic1.jpg



Teddy
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> Actually, a black linen engagente with white work and white English
> embroidery would look fantastic emerging from the sleeve of an 1860s
> white pique sea side outfit....with black soutache braid work.

OK, now you made me drool on tghe keyboard! 



Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Photo of costume from painting of Helena Snakenborg
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 --- Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote: > 

> Jane Huggett made one some time ago - there's a photo of her in it 
> with the Historical Dance group she performs with here....
> 
> http://www.hants.gov.uk/basdance/pic1.jpg

Lovely! I wish there were a close-up.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: [h-cost] Not-a-Dissapointment
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Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 10:48:28 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Following on the heels of the disappointment over the linen that 
wasn't linen....

The fabric I was actually dying when I threw the offcut of non-linen 
in to test it  came out *beautifully.*

It was a length of lovely figured velvet that Danielle brought over for 
me in January (from the Orange Bag shop in Toronto, right 
Danielle?).  It's beautiful stuff, remeniscent of the patterned velvets 
seen in Tudor-bethan portraits with the pattern picked out in longish 
pile velvet and the background in unpiled plain-weave (probably the 
reason several pieces of it in various colours were in Danielle's 
stash in the first place, right Danielle?)

Anyhow, the pice she brought me was a sort of fawn colour... very 
nice but not as *me* as it could be, so I decided to dye it.

I toyed with the idea of orange - which would have taken well over 
the fawn colour, but decided to risk going for a dark green instead.

One box of Olive Green and one box of Dark Green went into the 
washer with it and it came out the most *glorious* deep, even, 
dark, rich foresty green... and the pile has remained as soft as iit 
was before washing/dying.

Happy, happy, happy.

I think I know what my first garments from Margo's new Mens 
Elizabethan Patterns will be made form when the pattern is ready 
for release...<G>
 

Teddy
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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Black handkerchief-weight linen -- suggestions?
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Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 11:09:52 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

Hi, Stephen, it's a bit on the shiny side, but (judging from experience
buying some of the same fabric in red, earlier) if I wash it, it'll get
less shiny.  Hm, cool idea!  I've been thinking of making an Edwardian
outfit...

- Mara

On Mon, 2 Sep 2002, Stephen Bergdahl wrote:
>  Mara, how shiny?  If it's not too bright you could make a Edwardian
> half morning.  Pair it with a soft lavender as trim, collar and
> sleeves.  It would be stunning.
>
>
> Stephen Bergdahl
> www.2xtreme.net/madly/Home_Page.htm

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From: AlbertCat@aol.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Black engageantes
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Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 11:02:45 EDT
Status: RO


--part1_1b9.5d4e7fd.2aa77a95_boundary
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In a message dated 9/3/2002 8:43:18 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
cschmitt@genteelarts.com writes:


> Would you mind sharing your sources for black engageantes worn with a white 
> outfit, or black engageantes with white trim?  

My fabulous taste...dahhhhlink!

I don't have any sources....though I have seen black engagements [without 
white] somewhere.

I make costumes. Not museum repros. I say if it looks good [and is not too 
off the beaten path] do it.

I have seen a real 1890s outfit of black linen with tiny white butterflies 
embroidered all over it.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 9/3/2002 8:43:18 PM Eastern Daylight Time, cschmitt@genteelarts.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#0000ff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Would you mind sharing your sources for black engageantes worn with a white outfit, or black engageantes with white trim? &nbsp;</BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR>My fabulous taste...dahhhhlink!
<BR>
<BR>I don't have any sources....though I have seen black engagements [without white] somewhere.
<BR>
<BR>I make costumes. Not museum repros. I say if it looks good [and is not too off the beaten path] do it.
<BR>
<BR>I have seen a real 1890s outfit of black linen with tiny white butterflies embroidered all over it.</FONT></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Sep  4 11:17:09 2002
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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Busk for circa 1810-20 corset addendum
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Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 11:05:38 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

On Mon, 2 Sep 2002 AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> I'll bet any "common" wood like oak or ash. I suppose one could use pine.
> It's soft. What about cedar? Keep the moths out of it......

I wouldn't want pine, for fear it'd break under pressure and splinter...
Hard woods like oak or ash would be better because they'd be flexible but
wouldn't be as likely to break.  That's why oak and ash and the like are
used for stuff like boatbuilding, spear shafts, baskets, etc.

> I actually have a corset from this period with the busk in it. It is
> completely sewn in so I'd have to take out original hand stitching to see it.
> I don't know what wood it's made from. It is hard and rigid. I can tell you
> that it is slightly curved. I mean, if you look at it in profile, it has a
> very shallow "S" shape. Gently curving out for the bust, then coming in a
> little for the waist the out again for the lower part. Not unlike a spoon
> busk of the 1880s. [because the corset comes way down on the hips, the in
> curve for the waist is nearer the top] The busk is 2" wide all the way down
> [not wider at the bottom like a spoon busk] and a little more than 1/4"
> thick. All the edges are rounded.

Hm, I'm wondering whether the wood could have been 'steamed' into shape
from being exposed to perspiration and pressure?  A slower version of the
method I've seen my hubby and other boatbuilders use to steam wood into
shape for planks, etc....  If you steam a thin piece of oak enough, you
can tie it into a knot ;)

-- Mara

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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: OT: Mad aunties, was Re: [h-cost] Re: Cynthia Virtue's twins!
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Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 11:20:42 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

My nephews are about 500 miles away from me, alas!  I went to visit my
middle sister last Christmas and did my best to wear wierd hats and
clothing the entire time.  Oh, wait, that's how I normally dress...  I
just wish they lived closer!  It'd be fun to take them to reenactment
events.

Speaking of roasting things over the fire, though, my local butcher shop
sells frozen whole rabbits.  I've got a few in the freezer now; could
stick them over the fire and tell people they were rats ;D

-- Mara

On Tue, 3 Sep 2002, [iso-8859-1] N Kipar wrote:
> Nah, don't worry, I just meant as addition to my re-enactment kit *G* kind of
> borrow-the-costumed-kids-from-a-friend thingy. Does my best friend have a kid
> yet though? No! ha! I keep trying to urge her on, I want to become an aunt, you
> know, the mad-aunti-type, the one with the really strange gifts for christmas
> and birthdays, the one that lets them eat all the stuff that mum says is
> unhealthy and allows them to stay up too long. *LOL*
>
> Nicole

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Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 08:40:11 -0700
Status: RO

Could you please email me off-list? 

Thanks!

Colleen
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From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: [h-cost] re: Buried Norsemen
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 20:23:38 -0700
Status: RO

At 7:51 PM -0700 9/3/02, Tasha McGann wrote:
>Robin wrote:
>>  (Not that the translation of "Buried Norseman" was a
>>  work of art :-P )
>
>I just borrowed a partial photocopy from a friend
>today, and it starts on page 87 or so, "Chapter 6: The
>Costumes" (in the edition I have, which I can't cite,
>because that part isn't included in what I have). At
>any rate, I'm wondering what's in the first five
>chapters, but I can guess they're not directly
>costume-related. Can anyone clue me in? Robin?
>Heather?

The earlier chapters cover the details of the expedition itself, the 
layout of the site, the nature and arrangement of the coffins.  There 
are also chapters (I forget whether they come before or after the 
clothing section) on non-clothing finds, on associated inscriptional 
material, and whatnot.  A separate section following all this covers 
the human remains.  If you're curious enough to want a full table of 
contents, I can do it later.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 15:56:33 -0500
Status: RO

I got this off another list and thought it might appeal to some of you in 
England.

Cheers,
Danielle


>Date: 3 Sep 2002
>From: Barbara Wills <bwills@british-museum.ac.uk>
>Subject: Seminar on history of equestrian saddles
>
>Archaeological Leather Group Meeting
>Saddlers Hall, 40 Gutter Lane, London EC2V 6BR
>Oct 23, 2002
>
>The Archaeological Leather Group is holding a One-Day Seminar called 'In the
>Saddle', exploring the history and evolution of equestrian saddles in
>Europe.  Subjects range from Roman, through Anglo-Saxon to Medieval and
>Stuart period saddles.  Presentations on the development and history of the
>side-saddle, and the construction of the modern riding-saddle follow.  The
>remarkable conservation of a 1549 saddle, now belonging to the Wallace
>Collection, will also be described.
>
>Cost: 20 pounds sterling per head to include buffet lunch (ALG members 16
>pounds)
>
>Please make cheques payable to 'Archaeological Leather Group' and send,
>with details of name and address, to
>       Roy Thomson, Treasurer
>       c/o Leather Conservation Centre
>       University College Campus
>       Boughton Green Road
>       Northampton NN2 7AN, UK.
>
>  If any further details required, please contact Mike Glasson
>  leathermuseum@walsall.gov.uk
>
>
>  -Jeannie
>  "Use Mr. Stick! That's what you got him for!"
>  dressage judge Ruth Sinclair

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Subject: [h-cost] Fw: CommunityZero: Important Changes to Core Membership
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Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 18:04:36 -0400
Status: RO

Is it time to move our fabric swap to a different server? It really doesn't
warrant enough activity to justify a $30.00 annual membership!

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "CommunityZero" <system@communityzero.com>
To: <goofy1@suscom.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2002 5:46 PM
Subject: CommunityZero: Important Changes to Core Membership



COMMUNITYZERO: IMPORTANT CHANGES TO CORE MEMBERSHIP

Dear CommunityZero Core Member,

This month marks the three-year anniversary of the launch of
the free CommunityZero Core service.  Over this period,
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From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Not-a-Dissapointment
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Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 18:10:36 -0500
Status: RO

At 10:48 AM 9/4/2002 +0000, Teddy wrote:
>Following on the heels of the disappointment over the linen that
>wasn't linen....
>
>The fabric I was actually dying when I threw the offcut of non-linen
>in to test it  came out *beautifully.*
>
>It was a length of lovely figured velvet that Danielle brought over for
>me in January (from the Orange Bag shop in Toronto, right
>Danielle?).  It's beautiful stuff, remeniscent of the patterned velvets
>seen in Tudor-bethan portraits with the pattern picked out in longish
>pile velvet and the background in unpiled plain-weave (probably the
>reason several pieces of it in various colours were in Danielle's
>stash in the first place, right Danielle?)

I got some of the voided velvet from Designer Fabric Outlet 
http://www.designerfabricsonline.com/ (aka the Orange Bag Store) and some 
from MacDonald Faber http://www.macdonaldfaber.com/  I managed to find some 
fabulous ones that look just like some of the stuff you see in the 
portraits.  They are 100% cotton, plain weave back with a medium length 
pile.  I basically bought all I could... : )

Cheers,
Danielle

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Subject: H-Costume fabric swap and sell was Re: [h-cost] Fw:
  CommunityZero: Important Changes to Core Membership
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Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 18:06:33 -0500
Status: RO

Well, I was going to post to the list and ask if people even want to 
continue it since it has been awhile since anyone has posted anything.  If 
anyone has suggestions of new locations for it. I would be interested in 
hearing it.

At 06:04 PM 9/4/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>Is it time to move our fabric swap to a different server? It really doesn't
>warrant enough activity to justify a $30.00 annual membership!
>
>Dianne
>----- Original Message -----
>COMMUNITYZERO: IMPORTANT CHANGES TO CORE MEMBERSHIP
>
>Dear CommunityZero Core Member,

<snip>

>Effective October 1st, restrictions will be implemented that
>will result in limited access to content by those members
>who have not purchased memberships.
>
>We have sought to structure a paid membership option that
>delivers members tremendous value at an extremely affordable
>price.  Starting later this month, for a limited time,
>members will be offered Platinum Membership at a price of
>USD$29.95 PER YEAR.  Such membership will convey the holder
>the ability to join and/or start an UNLIMITED number of
>communities, and utilize an UNLIMITED number of pageviews
>when using CommunityZero Core.  In other words, for less
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>the case, our members will not be subject to any advertising
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>
>Users who do not purchase Platinum Memberships will remain
>members of the communities that they have joined.  As
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>will also receive periodic updates summarizing community
>activity if they have subscribed to do so.  These members
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Sep  4 20:33:39 2002
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From: "Ashley Wells" <ashleyw@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: religious mixing of fibers
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Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 20:28:37 -0400
Status: RO

One of the significant religious aspects of shatnes (the ban on mixing
unlike fibers - specifically wool and linen) is to set a precedent on
mixing unlike species, breeds, etc. - wool is an animal fiber,
linen/flax is plant.  The prohibition is generally extended to include
cross-breeding animals of different species:  cross breeding Jacob and
karakul sheep would be ok (depending on the particular rabbi's
interpretation), but a mule (a horse crossed with an ass) is not ok.
The premise is that God created the species: sheep, flax, horses,
donkeys, etc., and only God can create totally new things - like a cross
between a plant and an animal.  Man is forbidden to play around with
genetics or even to produce goods that give the impression that man can
play around with genetics (such as a fabric of linen and wool would
appear).  You're right - God didn't have to give a reason, so
generations of scholars have attempted to divine God's reasons for
thousands of years - there are tons of Talmudic discourses on shatnes,
if you care to look.  Hope this helps.

Regards,

Ashley

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Gail & Scott Finke
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2002 12:39 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: religious mixing of fibers



I haven't read any Levitical commentary lately, but the last time I did
I
remember reading that one purpose postulated for this and many of the
similar bans was to differentiate the Israelites from other tribes in
the
area. They were the chosen people, so they had to dress, eat and act
differently from other peoples. Of course, as previously noted, God (if
you
believe that the laws came from God) didn't give a reason.

Gail Finke
Cincinnati

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Sep  4 21:44:29 2002
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fw: CommunityZero: Important Changes to Core Membership
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Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 20:43:21 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Wed, 4 Sep 2002, Dianne and Greg Stucki wrote:

> Is it time to move our fabric swap to a different server? It really
> doesn't warrant enough activity to justify a $30.00 annual membership!

Wow, I didn't get one of these notices!

I'll pass this on to Danielle, in case she hasn't seen it yet (last I
heard she was behind on her listmail). Yahoo-groups would serve our
purposes well enough, since it's got room for photos, and most of us are
familiar with how it works. I'm still confused by the CommunityZero setup!
And I wonder if we'll get more postings on a familiar server.

I'm getting ready to post some more fabric myself soon. More stash
cleaning...

--Robin

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Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 18:54:53 -0700
Status: RO

What is this about a fabric swap?  -eyes widening with a glee-

Roscelin

Robin Netherton wrote:

>On Wed, 4 Sep 2002, Dianne and Greg Stucki wrote:
>
>>Is it time to move our fabric swap to a different server? It really
>>doesn't warrant enough activity to justify a $30.00 annual membership!
>>


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Sep  4 22:07:18 2002
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: religious mixing of fibers
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Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 21:02:02 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Wed, 4 Sep 2002, Ashley Wells wrote:

> One of the significant religious aspects of shatnes (the ban on mixing
> unlike fibers - specifically wool and linen) is to set a precedent on
> mixing unlike species, breeds, etc. - wool is an animal fiber,
> linen/flax is plant. ... The premise is that God created the species:
> sheep, flax, horses, donkeys, etc., and only God can create totally
> new things - like a cross between a plant and an animal.  Man is
> forbidden to play around with genetics or even to produce goods that
> give the impression that man can play around with genetics (such as a
> fabric of linen and wool would appear).

I've heard that interpretation myself, but it doesn't seem consistent with
the actual practice. Based on the information I saw on the websites I
posted, other plant/animal fiber mixes are not prohibited. Hemp linen and
cotton and silk are all OK to mix with each other and with wool. The ban
apparently is strictly on sheep wool plus flax. That's what's in written
law, but it still surprised me because generally -- as you say -- rules
like this tend to be extended to avoid even the *appearance* of an
inappropriate mixing. For instance, the entire meat/dairy separation in
kosher law stems from a single Torah prohibition about not boiling a kid
in its mother's milk. I had expected that the fiber prohibitions would
have been extended likewise, but apparently they have not. Or else the
shatnes organization (whose website I posted) is not representative of
common practice, though I don't know any other groups practicing to this
extent.

--Robin



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Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 22:08:33 -0400
Status: RO

Hi. An excellent explanation of the subject. I was talking to someone else,
and they mentioned the very same thing. They said to look in the section of
Leviticus or Deuteronomy where the proscription lies, and note the other
proscriptions near it, which have similar overtones of mixing things which
are different. Perhaps this is why the Coptic Christians intentionally mixed
wool and linen, to set them apart as the "new" Chosen People. Thanks for all
of the interesting discussion on this subject... Mike T.



> One of the significant religious aspects of shatnes (the ban on mixing
> unlike fibers - specifically wool and linen) is to set a precedent on
> mixing unlike species, breeds, etc.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fw: CommunityZero: Important Changes to Core Membership
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Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 08:03:14 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote: > 

> I'll pass this on to Danielle, in case she hasn't seen it yet (last I
> heard she was behind on her listmail). Yahoo-groups would serve our
> purposes well enough, since it's got room for photos, and most of us are
> familiar with how it works. I'm still confused by the CommunityZero setup!
> And I wonder if we'll get more postings on a familiar server.

Yahoogroups has these annoying gazillions of adverts, I personally like
Smartgroups, for free, same features as yahoo, and less ads. Ever tried it?

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Sep  5 04:14:26 2002
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Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 09:10:41 BST
Status: RO

N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote :

> Yahoogroups has these annoying gazillions of adverts, I personally like
> Smartgroups, for free, same features as yahoo, and less ads. Ever tried it?

I use it. Very fast response from support, unlike Yahoo who don't respond at all. Just been doing some major upgrades, so there've been a few hiccups, but those should be over now.

WebTV users and Hotmail apparently have problems at times.
There's an on-going bug with the calendar and repeated events that don't.

Personally I find it very fast and very friendly. But you may be using different features from me.



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Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 06:29:49 -0400
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I've tried it. Service was down more, and nowhere near as many features as
Yahoo...I like the idea of archives, and with the files and photos sections,
room for a gazillion pics.

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "N Kipar" <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2002 3:03 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fw: CommunityZero: Important Changes to Core
Membership


> --- Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote: >
>
> > I'll pass this on to Danielle, in case she hasn't seen it yet (last I
> > heard she was behind on her listmail). Yahoo-groups would serve our
> > purposes well enough, since it's got room for photos, and most of us are
> > familiar with how it works. I'm still confused by the CommunityZero
setup!
> > And I wonder if we'll get more postings on a familiar server.
>
> Yahoogroups has these annoying gazillions of adverts, I personally like
> Smartgroups, for free, same features as yahoo, and less ads. Ever tried
it?
>
> Nicole
>
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
> Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: marquis@kipar.org
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Everything you'll ever need on one web page
> from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
> http://uk.my.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Sep  5 07:00:32 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fw: CommunityZero: Important Changes to Core Membership
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Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 11:49:29 +0100 (BST)
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 --- Dianne and Greg Stucki <goofy1@suscom.net> wrote: > I've tried it. Service
was down more, and nowhere near as many features as
> Yahoo...I like the idea of archives, and with the files and photos sections,
> room for a gazillion pics.

When did you try it? They have upgraded tremendously.
They have archives.
Files sections.
Picture sections.
Lots of other services.

Anyway, it doesn't matter, since I can't see a point in joining, is too
expensive to send fabric over the atlantic. What a shame.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Sep  5 07:10:14 2002
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Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 12:06:39 BST
Status: RO

Nichole:  I personally like
> > Smartgroups, for free, same features as yahoo, and less ads. Ever tried
> it?

Dianne And Greg Stucki <goofy1@suscom.net> wrote :

> I've tried it. Service was down more, and nowhere near as many features as
> Yahoo...I like the idea of archives, and with the files and photos sections,
> room for a gazillion pics.

Less features? Just curious, which ones are missing? The files area is right there, I use it all the time. Archives... yep. And no space limits that I know of.

No chat, though, was that the feature you missed?




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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Sep  5 08:34:14 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fw: CommunityZero: Important Changes to Core Membership
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Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 07:33:32 -0500 (CDT)
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On Thu, 5 Sep 2002, Dianne and Greg Stucki wrote:

> I've tried it. Service was down more, and nowhere near as many
> features as Yahoo...I like the idea of archives, and with the files
> and photos sections, room for a gazillion pics.

Given that the swap&sell group has only a few messages, I wouldn't mind
the gazillion ads -- it's not like I'd be reading them multiple times a
day.

--Robin

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Sep  5 11:01:26 2002
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Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 09:55:43 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO



Here's a promo for an upcoming Hallmark Channel feature: An "adult"
version of Snow White, with Kristin ("Smallville") Kreuk wearing a
pseudo-bliaut in the title role. The email newsletter I got had a
full-length picture showing tremendous hanging sleeves; there's just a
bust shot on this page, I'm afraid. Premieres 9/26 for those who have
Hallmark on cable.

http://www.hallmarkchannelus.com/tv/shows/snowwhite.asp

--Robin


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fw: CommunityZero: Important Changes to Core Membership
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Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 10:03:33 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Wed, 4 Sep 2002, Roscelin wrote:

> What is this about a fabric swap?  -eyes widening with a glee-

No one else answered, so I will: It's a list where those of us with extra
stash, patterns, etc. offer stuff for sale or trade. Not many messages
lately, but I know that whenever I clean out another part of the sewing
room, I post a few things, and I've always found buyers, so there must be
*some* interest out there.

Membership is restricted, for h-cost list members only.

I think I will wait on my next posting till Danielle chooses another
server for us. I don't like Yahoo for regular lists, but I'm OK with it
for something like this. Or Smartgroups, if that looks as easy to use.

--Robin

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Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 11:01:42 -0400
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        I don't know about Smartgroups, but I HATE Yahoo!!!

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fw: CommunityZero: Important Changes to Core
 Membership
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Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 09:47:38 -0700
Status: RO

At 7:33 AM -0500 9/5/02, Robin Netherton wrote:
>On Thu, 5 Sep 2002, Dianne and Greg Stucki wrote:
>
>>  I've tried it. Service was down more, and nowhere near as many
>>  features as Yahoo...I like the idea of archives, and with the files
>>  and photos sections, room for a gazillion pics.
>
>Given that the swap&sell group has only a few messages, I wouldn't mind
>the gazillion ads -- it's not like I'd be reading them multiple times a
>day.

Can anyone give specific numbers on the volume for the swap & sell 
group?  I know that it can be good to separate discussion and 
commercial aspects of a group, but if the "commercial" volume is 
extremely small, might it be a more efficient compromise to go back 
to having people announce available items on the main list -- as long 
as we work really really hard to keep the subsequent responses to 
private e-mail?

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fw: CommunityZero: Important Changes to Core Membership
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Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 16:29:22 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Thu, 5 Sep 2002, Heather Rose Jones wrote:

> Can anyone give specific numbers on the volume for the swap & sell
> group?  I know that it can be good to separate discussion and
> commercial aspects of a group, but if the "commercial" volume is
> extremely small, might it be a more efficient compromise to go back to
> having people announce available items on the main list -- as long as
> we work really really hard to keep the subsequent responses to private
> e-mail?

There's only been a handful of messages since the group started (around
the turn of this year) -- maybe less than a dozen in all that time.
Perhaps announcements on the main list would work well enough. I think
when Danielle started the side list, it was in expectation that we'd have
too many sale offers to politely handle on the list, and that perhaps
people were refraining from posting such things to avoid inappropriate
volume of sales posts.

Before that, though, I periodically offered extra fabric on the list, and
I've seen other people offer patterns. I don't mind that myself, but
perhaps other people do. I think a lot depends on not abusing the
audience.

I think one reason the volume was so low is that CZ isn't really an email
list; it's a web page, and messages appear there. We get notifications
when someone posts, but we have to go to the page to read, and it can be
difficult to actually find your way to the messages.

--Robin


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: DISTAFF list: ;
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Subject: [h-cost] Urgent CFP: Dress & Textiles sessions, Kalamazoo
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Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 08:05:19 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


(This message is going to the people who signed up for the DISTAFF list at
the costume and textiles sessions at the International Medieval Congresses
at Kalamazoo or Leeds. DISTAFF (Discussion, Interpretation, and Study of
Textile Arts, Fabrics, and Fashion) is a group formed to link conference
attendees who are interested in the study of medieval and Renaissance
textiles and dress.)

Feel free to pass this on to other interested scholars or suitable lists:

Due to the unexpected withdrawal of a speaker, we have found ourselves
with one extra opening in the Dress & Textiles sessions for the 2003
Kalamazoo Congress.

If you were considering proposing a paper for DISTAFF, now is the time to
do it.

We can use one more paper that will fit one of these session topics:

 -- I. Martial Clothing and Fashion. We'd be interested on papers about
(for example) clothing worn for fighting, the relationship between armor
and clothing styles, the use of heraldry in battle dress, the effect of
wartime on fashion, documentary/literary descriptions of martial clothing,
or similar topics.

 -- II. Dress and Textiles for Special Occasions. Some examples might be
clothing or textile use for weddings, knightings, coronations, etc. We
welcome papers from any discipline, including literature, art history,
political history, etc.

The 2003 Congress is scheduled for 8-11 May.  You can view the Call for
Papers at <http://www.wmich.edu/~medinst/congress/38cfp/>. If you're on
the conference mailing list, you should have received your hardcopy
version by postal mail by now. Our sessions appear in the "Sponsored
Sessions" section, under DISTAFF.

The deadline for paper proposals is, as usual, 15 September. However, we
would strongly suggest that you contact us as soon as possible if you
think you would like to propose a paper. Often there is a rush at the last
minute.

If you have questions about the Congress, please check the website at
<http://www.wmich.edu/medieval>.


Robin Netherton
Gale Owen-Crocker
DISTAFF











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Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 00:20:05 -0500
Status: RO

At 09:47 AM 9/5/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>Can anyone give specific numbers on the volume for the swap & sell 
>group?  I know that it can be good to separate discussion and commercial 
>aspects of a group, but if the "commercial" volume is extremely small, 
>might it be a more efficient compromise to go back to having people 
>announce available items on the main list -- as long as we work really 
>really hard to keep the subsequent responses to private e-mail?
>
>Heather

There are currently 148 members and there has been one post since 
May.  Does that answer your question?

Cheers,
Danielle

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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 01:38:27 -0400
Status: RO

Seems no one wants to share their fabric right now.... visions of everyone
sitting in their closet saying, "Its mine!  All mine!"

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Subject: [h-cost] Whitby Jet
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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 17:15:03 +0100
Status: RO

Anybody know of an online source for Crosses of Whitby jet please ?

Mel

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From: <claning@igc.org>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Whitby Jet
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Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 13:13:29 -0400
Status: RO

Hmmm. The people I bought a string of (Chinese) jet beads from say that the
vein of jet at Whitby has been pretty much worked out, so little if any new
stuff is available. I seem to recall reading an article to the same effect. In
that case, your best hope might be to find something on the antique market, at
antique-market prices unfortunately.

Chinese jet isn't as good -- it's less hard and less shiny -- but it may be at
least a little easier to find. I paid about $20 US for a string of 50 beads
about 8mm in size a couple of years ago.I believe there is (or was) also jet
in Spain -- souvenir rosaries at Compostela used to be made from it.

Other than that, I know that jet was very commonly counterfeited in the
Victorian era by black opaque glass. I would expect that black onyx (which is
usually dyed) would also be okay as a substitute.

I'd be happy to be corrected on this by anyone who knows more than I do :)

On Fri, 6 Sep 2002 17:15:03 +0100 Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com>
wrote:

> Anybody know of an online source for Crosses of
> Whitby jet please ?


____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 18:29:34 +0100
Status: RO

Hi all,
I just came across this item on E-bay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=955058120

Yes, it's a GOTHIC Black Medieval Wench Corset.

But at least you haven't come across this "costume" out there: see

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=955026444

for the costume described as:

>ALL OVER LACE AND LYCRA GOTHIC MEDIEVAL "WENCH" BABYDOLL >WITH
MATHCHING THONG!

I'm not sure what a "mathching thong" is, and I don't think I want to
know, either. But if anyone can tell me how to search e-bay without
having to plod through acres of pseudo historical costumes I should be
very grateful.

best wishes
Stevie

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Sep  6 13:46:37 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] And you thought Renfaires were bad...
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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 13:44:22 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

On Fri, 6 Sep 2002, Stevie Gamble wrote:

> Hi all,
> I just came across this item on E-bay:
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=955058120
>
> Yes, it's a GOTHIC Black Medieval Wench Corset.

I suspect they put "Gothic" in the title to attract the attention of the
Goth scene types... i.e., it's black, right?  I find that black ankle
boots are almost always described as 'Goth' or 'Gothic' on Ebay.

Anyway, does anyone have an idea as to what pattern this person is using?
I could see making one of those, for modern wear (i.e., with a matching
skirt and bolero), and have been trying to find a pattern like that,
without success.


> But at least you haven't come across this "costume" out there: see
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=955026444

Ewwww!

-- Mara

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From: kat@grendal.rain.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Whitby Jet
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Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 11:21:15 -0700
Status: RO

> Other than that, I know that jet was very commonly counterfeited in
> the Victorian era by black opaque glass. I would expect that black
> onyx (which is usually dyed) would also be okay as a substitute.

Black glass was not only used as a jet substitute in Victorian era. 
It was also *quite* common in the Tudor era as well, especially for 
rosaries/paternosters. It even shows up in items in the inventories 
of Henry VIII. 

In terms of jet from specific areas, that part I don't have any more 
information (although it is also found in some of the areas of the 
eastern Europe.)

Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>

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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 11:14:32 -0700
Status: RO

Mara,

I'm almost positive that is the Fredericks corset that came out about 3-4
years ago. It's pretty good for theatrical "quickie" corset use, so I've got
quite a few.  It retails for $65 (way too much, I know) but in a pinch it
beats no corset at all.  Hardly qualifies as outerwear in my book though...

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
Theatrical Costume Design
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
"The truth of it is, I have no shirt."
W. Shakespeare
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin & Mara Riley" <lindo@radix.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, September 06, 2002 10:44 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] And you thought Renfaires were bad...


> On Fri, 6 Sep 2002, Stevie Gamble wrote:
>
> > Hi all,
> > I just came across this item on E-bay:
> >
> > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=955058120
> >
> > Yes, it's a GOTHIC Black Medieval Wench Corset.
>
> I suspect they put "Gothic" in the title to attract the attention of the
> Goth scene types... i.e., it's black, right?  I find that black ankle
> boots are almost always described as 'Goth' or 'Gothic' on Ebay.
>
> Anyway, does anyone have an idea as to what pattern this person is using?
> I could see making one of those, for modern wear (i.e., with a matching
> skirt and bolero), and have been trying to find a pattern like that,
> without success.
>
>
> > But at least you haven't come across this "costume" out there: see
> >
> > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=955026444
>
> Ewwww!
>
> -- Mara
>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Sep  6 14:30:01 2002
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From: "Jane Williams" <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Whitby Jet
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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 19:28:19 +0100
Status: RO

On 6 Sep 2002 at 13:13, claning@igc.org wrote:

> On Fri, 6 Sep 2002 17:15:03 +0100 Melanie Wilson
> <MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com> wrote:
> 
> > Anybody know of an online source for Crosses of
> > Whitby jet please ?

Doing a quick Google search, I've learnt a lot about 
Whitby Jet, so thanks. 

Antique dealers are expensive:
it's a cross, but $300?
http://www.francascollection.com/Templates/frmTem
plateS.asp?CatalogID=595

and one on a chain for $450
http://www.hhantiques.co.uk/jetn.htm

This guy's a bit more reasonable:
http://mysite.freeserve.com/jetjewellery/
makes his own stuff, and the cross is more the £15 
mark. Doesn't take credit cards, though.

Looks like a trip to Whitby could be rewarding, if 
you're close enough?





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Subject: [h-cost] "1870's Post Civil War Purple Dress" on E-bay
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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 20:24:12 +0100
Status: RO

Hi everyone,

People with an interest in this can find the dress at:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2136421153


best wishes

Stevie

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Sep  6 15:56:03 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] (Whitby) Jet on E-bay
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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 20:57:07 +0100
Status: RO

Hi,


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2136537256

has a "Victorian Black Embossed Cape w Jet~Lace"; the cape is
shattered badly but the vendor suggests that it may be worth buying
"for it's silk bow and jet since these are in excellent condition."

Present bid is $5 which is rather cheaper than the alternatives, and
you could always stick the jet onto black metal to simulate Berlin
ironwork...

best wishes
Stevie

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Sep  6 16:13:57 2002
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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 13:12:44 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

I just checked the e-bay links.   yuk  but I just got
done at the museum and my tolerance for non-period is
completely shot just now.   I've also got some 100%
linen and some linen/rayon in with some dye remover so
I'll see if this works as well as you all say it does.
 How period is the raw silk at JoAnns.  They just
marked some pieces down to 2.88 so I got a couple of
dress lengths.  The raspberry pink is way to bright
but I figure if the dye remover calms it down I can
overdye to something in the red family.  Is blue a
period color for the Helena Snakenborg portrait I'm
using for inspiration?  Back to the car pool.
                          Cassandra  


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Sep  6 16:15:43 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] E-bay "Victorian Velvet Mantle/Jacket"
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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 21:18:21 +0100
Status: RO

Hi all,

I haven't the faintest idea whether this really is Victorian, but it's
a remarkable garment. There are around 20 pictures, so it takes a long
time to load.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2136734327

I'll look forward to our Victorian specialists' comments on this...

best wishes
Stevie



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Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 16:23:12 -0400
Status: RO



Ha ha! What a hideous looking thing, too!

Gail Finke


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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 16:55:14 -0400
Status: RO

I was wondering.... if I understand correctly, the velvet was cut, and then
the area embroidered to accent.  Would this be how the cut velvet would have
been done in, say, the 16th century?  There is a little girl's gown in
Patterns of Fashion that my daughter has begged for for years, and I would
love to be able to try duplicating the pattern in the velvet, but didn't
know how.
Moira

> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2136734327


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] E-bay "Victorian Velvet Mantle/Jacket"
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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 16:02:49 -0500
Status: RO

Wow! I'll take several...

Looks like 1880's to me.

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Stevie Gamble
Sent: Friday, September 06, 2002 3:18 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] E-bay "Victorian Velvet Mantle/Jacket"

Hi all,

I haven't the faintest idea whether this really is Victorian, but it's
a remarkable garment. There are around 20 pictures, so it takes a long
time to load.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2136734327

I'll look forward to our Victorian specialists' comments on this...

best wishes
Stevie



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] And you thought Renfaires were bad...
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Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 14:45:56 -0700
Status: RO


>But at least you haven't come across this "costume" out there: see
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=955026444

Just in time for Halloween?

>But if anyone can tell me how to search e-bay without
>having to plod through acres of pseudo historical costumes I should be
>very grateful.

Use the search function.  Using a '-' ,in front of the words you want 
skipped in the search, is useful.  Searching for some specific is also 
useful.  I go to the historical clothing section and say " Victorian -style 
-Gunne -sax ", to avoid the worst of that problem when looking for 
Victorian clothing.


Kayta

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "1870's Post Civil War Purple Dress" on E-bay
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Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 14:49:24 -0700
Status: RO


>People with an interest in this can find the dress at:
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2136421153

Nice silhouette.  I wish they had photographed it against a darker 
background, or outside, so the details would show.


Kayta

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] (Whitby) Jet on E-bay
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Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 15:22:13 -0700
Status: RO


>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2136537256
>
>has a "Victorian Black Embossed Cape w Jet~Lace"; the cape is
>shattered badly but the vendor suggests that it may be worth buying
>"for it's silk bow and jet since these are in excellent condition."
>
>Present bid is $5 which is rather cheaper than the alternatives, and
>you could always stick the jet onto black metal to simulate Berlin
>ironwork...

The problem arises when the dealers don't distinguish between 'jet' (carved 
stone), and 'jet glass' (mass produced black glass beads).  I never believe 
beaded items have actual jet sewn on them, especially when I can find the 
mold flash some larger glass beads have.  Real jet beads are usually bigger 
than the little glass beads usually used for sewing onto Victorian, etc., 
garments.


Kayta

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] E-bay "Victorian Velvet Mantle/Jacket"
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Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 15:24:34 -0700
Status: RO

Oh, yeah, that one, drool.  I'd believe it's real.  There's too much 
handwork on it to not be real.  (Even a compulsive like me doesn't do that 
much handwork on my repros...)  And the shape is perfect.

>I haven't the faintest idea whether this really is Victorian, but it's
>a remarkable garment. There are around 20 pictures, so it takes a long
>time to load.
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2136734327
>
>I'll look forward to our Victorian specialists' comments on this...


Kayta

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Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2002 04:04:06 -0400
Status: RO

I just ran across in a 1922 Lane Bryant maternity catalog where infant's
petticoats were called  "Gertrudes" (with a capital G).  These are what we
call today long baby slips.  Does anyone know why they were called
Gertrudes?

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Whitby Jet
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Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2002 09:14:25 +0100
Status: RO

>Looks like a trip to Whitby could be rewarding, if
you're close enough?

I hope to get up there for the Goth festival, so it might be a good buy time
:)

Mel




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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Sep  7 05:55:38 2002
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Date: Sat, 07 Sep 2002 02:54:58 -0700
Status: RO

Actually, it's not that I'm hoarding my fabric, I just can't figure out how 
to use the stupid CommunityZero interface. :\  I'm very familliar with Yahoo 
though, and rather fond of it.  It gets my vote, though I don't really have 
anything to compare it to.

-Laura

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] (Whitby) Jet on E-bay
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Date: Sat, 07 Sep 2002 03:01:52 -0700
Status: RO

Hi everyone!

  Guess what!  I won the bid and bought it for $5.00.  I couldn't resist 
it, I restored a Victorian dress many years ago.  I thought I would see 
how bad it is, if it is totally ruined I thought I might be able to use 
the cape as a pattern.  I'll let everyone know how it goes.

Roscelin

Stevie Gamble wrote:

>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2136537256
>
>has a "Victorian Black Embossed Cape w Jet~Lace"; the cape is
>shattered badly but the vendor suggests that it may be worth buying
>"for it's silk bow and jet since these are in excellent condition."
>
>Present bid is $5 which is rather cheaper than the alternatives, and
>you could always stick the jet onto black metal to simulate Berlin
>ironwork...
>
>


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Sep  7 06:11:31 2002
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Date: Sat, 07 Sep 2002 03:11:47 -0700
Status: RO

Geek Laura strikes again:

Re: Cutting the garbage from ebay searches:

To do this, you can type in "-foo" where "foo" is a word you'd like to 
exclude from the search.  In other words, if you searched for "serger 
-thread" it would read to the computer as "return all records containing 
'serger' but throw out those that contain 'thread' in the title".  My 
favorite way to do this is to use one of the other nifty little search 
features, the OR syntax.  This works by making a list of words that *might* 
be in the search.  So if you typed in "fabric (vintage,antique)" it would 
return all entries with both "fabic" and "antique" or "fabric" and "vintage" 
in it.  How *I* like to use the syntax is like this:

"fabric -(quilt,fq,polyester,neon,ribbed,knit)" which is only a partial list 
of the fabrics I'm *not* looking for. :)  Please note that you have to leave 
out the spaces in the OR syntax, or it won't work.  More advanced search 
stuff can be found here:
http://pages.ebay.com/help/index_popup.html?buy=search_commands.html


Re: The Gothic Wench Corset

The Gothic Wench Corset looks to me like a plain 'ol Freddie's of Hollywood 
corset.  In fact, this is one of those very popular ones calle the 
"Renaissance Corset" (!?!!) though in my opinion, it's closer to a Georgian 
style.  You can find these here:

http://www.fredericks.com/shopItemDetail.asp?deptID=7&classID=&itemID=50640&SID=STQAKA25HLTK8LEGJ20AM0DWHF8WCUB1

Back to lurk mode for me. :)

-Laura
(the geek)

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Subject: [h-cost] E-bay Vintage Veil Hat in Original Box NR~
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Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2002 19:04:01 +0100
Status: RO

My E-bay searches seem to be getting better, thanks to the help from
you all, but I have come across :

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2136636563

Is it 50's? At any rate, for $2 with an hour to go, it might interest
someone on the list.

Stevie



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Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2002 16:17:35 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Help!
    I tried running the linen and the linen blend
through the washer with the dye remover.  The blend
gave up its dye right away but the linen soaked up all
the dye from the water so now it's another color,
rather pretty but it didn't take the dye evenly.  Do I
run the linen through again by itself?  How often can
I dye remove something before it weakens the fibers? 
What weight linen would smocks and shifts be for right
next to the skin?  How about for the embroidered smock
on the Snakenborg portrait?
    Flipping through really old museum exhibition
books at the grad library I saw a piece of linen done
in blackwork.  Someone had embroidered the sleeve
shapes but then never cut them out so you could see
the shapes of the sleeves unfinished and uncut out. 
The photo is very small and very old but I could look
up the museum reference if anyone is interested.
                                Cassandra

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Bella?= <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] E-bay "Victorian Velvet Mantle/Jacket"
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 12:59:53 +1000 (EST)
Status: RO


> >I haven't the faintest idea whether this really is
> Victorian, but it's
> >a remarkable garment. There are around 20 pictures,
> so it takes a long
> >time to load.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2136734327


I don't know much about Victorian fashions, but the
embroidery on this reminded me of a picture I have in
one of my resource books. The book is Velvet: History
Techniques Fashions, Edited by Fabrizio de Marinis. In
the chapter entitled "Velvet in Fasion: From the
Thirties to the Present" there is a detail picture of
the bodice of a Balenciaga outfit in caramel-coloured
velvet. The embroidery is couched cord in black (like
on the Victorian jacket) only there is no velvet cut
away beneath it. According to this book the outfit was
displayed in Lyon in 1985 for the Balenciaga
"retrospective".

On a similar note, but in this case about Elsa
Schiaparelli:

"This designer/dressmaker of Italian origin adopted
'volants' and 'ruches' in the most elegant and
sumptuous outfits, with embroideries on tight-fitting
jackets...borrowed from the fashions of 1860 to 1880."



Bella




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] help with the undying!
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Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 07:53:46 +0100
Status: RO

>How often can
I dye remove something before it weakens the fibers?

Every time you do it it will unfortunatly weaken it :(

Linen needs 'forcing' to dye which is why it isn't giving it up the dye has
got deep into its structure, wheras synthetics are manufactured to dye
easily.

What are you using to remove the dye ?

Mel
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] And you thought Renfaires were bad...
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Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 13:00:02 -0400
Status: RO

As for this corset;  It is a usual feature piece in the :Fredericks of
Hollywood catalogue, and sells  for about $55-60.  Actually, as a quick and
dirty solution for a costume need, The fit and look is acceptable; at least
for theatre.  Kathleen who is delurking.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin & Mara Riley" <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, September 06, 2002 1:44 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] And you thought Renfaires were bad...


> On Fri, 6 Sep 2002, Stevie Gamble wrote:
>
> > Hi all,
> > I just came across this item on E-bay:
> >
> > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=955058120
> >
> > Yes, it's a GOTHIC Black Medieval Wench Corset.
>
> I suspect they put "Gothic" in the title to attract the attention of the
> Goth scene types... i.e., it's black, right?  I find that black ankle
> boots are almost always described as 'Goth' or 'Gothic' on Ebay.
>
> Anyway, does anyone have an idea as to what pattern this person is using?
> I could see making one of those, for modern wear (i.e., with a matching
> skirt and bolero), and have been trying to find a pattern like that,
> without success.
>
>
> > But at least you haven't come across this "costume" out there: see
> >
> > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=955026444
>
> Ewwww!
>
> -- Mara
>
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Subject: [h-cost] ornamentation of velvet wrap
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Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 15:13:31 -0400
Status: RO

May I suggest that the method used to embellish this cape was one of
applique (with satin) that has been outlined and beaded with black "jet".  I
have several examples of this kind of ornamentation on similar garments in
my collection..Among velvets that feature "burnout", non are any earlier
than about 1919.  This jacket/cape dates 1888-1893.  Kathleen M.
Message -----
From: "HEATHER A CUTLER" <moirabeaneoin@prodigy.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, September 06, 2002 4:55 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] E-bay "Victorian Velvet Mantle/Jacket"


> I was wondering.... if I understand correctly, the velvet was cut, and
then
> the area embroidered to accent.  Would this be how the cut velvet would
have
> been done in, say, the 16th century?  There is a little girl's gown in
> Patterns of Fashion that my daughter has begged for for years, and I would
> love to be able to try duplicating the pattern in the velvet, but didn't
> know how.
> Moira
>
> > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2136734327
>
>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Sep  8 15:14:45 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] E-bay "Victorian Velvet Mantle/Jacket"
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Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 15:14:51 -0400
Status: RO

May I suggest that this garment has been appliqued and the edges embellished
with braid and beads.  I have a couple of wraps of this period and this is
the manner of ornamentation. Burned out velvet is quite another process and
at least from examples of that art, it was not a
----- Original Message -----
From: "HEATHER A CUTLER" <moirabeaneoin@prodigy.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, September 06, 2002 4:55 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] E-bay "Victorian Velvet Mantle/Jacket"


> I was wondering.... if I understand correctly, the velvet was cut, and
then
> the area embroidered to accent.  Would this be how the cut velvet would
have
> been done in, say, the 16th century?  There is a little girl's gown in
> Patterns of Fashion that my daughter has begged for for years, and I would
> love to be able to try duplicating the pattern in the velvet, but didn't
> know how.
> Moira
>
> > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2136734327
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] And you thought Renfaires were bad...
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Date: Sun, 08 Sep 2002 16:47:56 -0400
Status: RO

Thanks, Angela...
I've seen some custom garments with a similar shape, made in a fancier
brocade or damask and paired with a matching skirt and maybe vestigial
sleeves, worn as formal wear.  Have been looking for a commercial pattern,
but so far, no luck.

Cheers
Mara

At 11:14 AM 9/6/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>Mara,
>
>I'm almost positive that is the Fredericks corset that came out about 3-4
>years ago. It's pretty good for theatrical "quickie" corset use, so I've got
>quite a few.  It retails for $65 (way too much, I know) but in a pinch it
>beats no corset at all.  Hardly qualifies as outerwear in my book though...
>
>angela

Kevin + Mara Riley

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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ornamentation of velvet wrap
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Date: Sun, 08 Sep 2002 17:22:52 -0500
Status: RO

Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
> 
> May I suggest that the method used to embellish this cape was one of
> applique (with satin) that has been outlined and beaded with black "jet".  I
> have several examples of this kind of ornamentation on similar garments in
> my collection..Among velvets that feature "burnout", non are any earlier
> than about 1919.  This jacket/cape dates 1888-1893.  Kathleen M.

While I agree that satin applique with black jet was used as an
ornamentation on capes of this type, I disagree that that is the method
here.  This may not be "burnout" velvet in a technical sense but rather
pile-on-pile velvet (what many people call cut velvet), which has been
around since the Renaissance.  (The seller mentions "Floral patterns cut
into the plush silk velvet.")  Voided velvet is also a possibility.  

The distinction is that pile-on-pile velvet has piles that are different
heights to create a pattern, and voided velvet is woven such that velvet
pile only appears in certain places, leaving the ground fabric bare in
others, to create a pattern.  What is today known as burnout velvet
might be woven as a voided velvet, or it might be selectively treated
with a chemical that eats away the pile but not the ground in the places
where it is applied.  (There may be other methods, but those are the
ones I know.)  In case anyone is interested, you can buy this chemical
in a home-use form called Fiber Etch.  It will eat away cotton, linen,
and rayon fibers, so you can use it for "burnout" on pile fabrics with
grounds of other fibers or you can create cutwork on fabrics that are
100% plant fiber.

Back to the cloak--it looks to me like pile-on-pile or voided velvet
embellished with black soutache braid or silk cording.  Stunning, too!

Melanie Schuessler
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] And you thought Renfaires were bad...
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Date: Sun, 08 Sep 2002 14:35:37 -0700
Status: RO


>I've seen some custom garments with a similar shape, made in a fancier
>brocade or damask and paired with a matching skirt and maybe vestigial
>sleeves, worn as formal wear.  Have been looking for a commercial pattern,
>but so far, no luck.

Seems you could start with a commercial corset pattern, and just drape the 
rest.  The non-corset part doesn't seem especially fitted, and I seem to 
recall it all looking like squares/rectangles to me.


Kayta

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Subject: [h-cost] undyeing linen
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Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 15:56:00 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Hello Mel,
    I used Rit dye remover following the package
directions for using the washing machine.  The
linen/rayon blend gave up enough of it's color to be a
very pretty pale blue but the linen is still it's
original yellow.  Should I have used more dye remover
or hot water instead of warm?  I could use the linen
as is ( still yellow) for a corset linig but I was
hoping to figure out how to do the undyeing before I
tried it on the 10 yds of 100% raw silk which is a
bright raspberry pink.
     Also, could I use duck for the middle layer of a
corset.  I don't think cotton is that common for the
Elizabethan timeframe but I don't know how to stiffen
linen.  Could I use the linen it's original yellow for
a corset?  Thanks for all the help from the list. 
Normally my reproduction work is for the 1800's so I
feel I'm way out of my depth on this project.
                          Cassandra

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Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 20:41:19 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


... at Victoria Louise, an online merchant specializing mostly in supplies
for 19th-century repro costuming. Still, some of the fabrics, notions, and
trims may prove useful to those doing other periods, too. Lots of
hard-to-find stuff here, including millinery supplies. Not my period, so I
can't speak for the value of the patterns, but there are lots of them.

www.victorialouise.com

--Robin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] undyeing linen
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Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 07:16:25 +0100
Status: RO

>I used Rit dye remover following the package
directions for using the washing machine.  The
linen/rayon blend gave up enough of it's color to be a
very pretty pale blue but the linen is still it's
original yellow.

I don't know Rit, is is a dye remover or a whitener after you have had a
bleed ? Most commercial dye removers as a bit rough to use in the home &
certainly not in the washing ,machine

What colour was the fabric to start with ? If is is dark it may be it was
never white (if that is what you are hoping for) to start with. You could at
this stage overdye to most colours sucessfully which would be better for the
fabric than stripping it.

>Should I have used more dye remover
or hot water instead of warm?

I wouldn't have thought so but hard to say as I don't know the chemoical we
stripped warn or cold never hot.

>I could use the linen
as is ( still yellow) for a corset linig but I was
hoping to figure out how to do the undyeing before I
tried it on the 10 yds of 100% raw silk which is a
bright raspberry pink.

Ah ! Don't make the mistake of thinking once you strip one , the method will
work on anything it will depend on what it was dyed with the substrate etc.
Generally when I was dyeing commercially we knew what & how a fabric was
dyed which gives you a better chance. Silk will be tricky to strip, in that
it will upset the fabric more than the more robust cellulosics. I can't
recommend stripping as a regular practice (for the fabrics sake anyhow !)

>     Also, could I use duck for the middle layer of a
corset.  I don't think cotton is that common for the
Elizabethan timeframe but I don't know how to stiffen
linen.  Could I use the linen it's original yellow for
a corset?

This is Elizabethen talk & therefore not something I can help you on sorry

Mel

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Sep  9 04:27:34 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] New Fun Class
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Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 04:24:16 -0400
Status: RO

Okay for those of you who haven't made a costume for the Ball this year
<<glaring at Robin>> we might have a solution, so you don't have to show up
at the Ball in last year's costume.

Stephen Bergdahl has decided to teach a Halloween costume class at the
Costume
Classroom www.costumeclassroom.com .  Stephen said he has been wanting to
teach this class for years.  He is a big Halloween fan since he was born
Oct. 28, 19??.  His class is called "Halloween Costumes for the Non-Sewer,
or For the Sewer with no time."  In four lessons starting Sept. 23, Stephen
is going to teach how to make 18 female and 14 men different Halloween
costumes.  For a listing of the costumes, look at the class description.
All and all, he is keeping a budget of time and $$$ in mind for the
costumes.

This class is part of our Halloween series so after Sept. 23, you can enter
this class anytime until Oct. 15 (for those really running out of time).
The class closes on Oct. 31.   Stephen will hold your costuming hand until
Halloween Day.

So there, you don't have an excuse... you can still be in the Ball if you
send me photos by that date!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Fun Class
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Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 07:51:28 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Mon, 9 Sep 2002, Penny Ladnier wrote:

> Okay for those of you who haven't made a costume for the Ball this year
> <<glaring at Robin>>

<whimper> ...this year I sewed for other people, not myself...

I had a nice pic in last year. Surely I can use that as a club with which
to beat other people into participation?

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ornamentation of velvet wrap
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Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 09:12:17 -0400
Status: RO

Well, it was worth a try.  There is a child's gown in Patterns of Fashion
that has the velvet cut in a kind of lattice pattern, and that was what I
was hoping to copy.  I may just have to experiment when I get the time. ;-)
Moira

> May I suggest that the method used to embellish this cape was one of
> applique (with satin) that has been outlined and beaded with black "jet".
I
> have several examples of this kind of ornamentation on similar garments in
> my collection..Among velvets that feature "burnout", non are any earlier
> than about 1919.  This jacket/cape dates 1888-1893.  Kathleen M.
> Message -----
> From: "HEATHER A CUTLER" <moirabeaneoin@prodigy.net>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Friday, September 06, 2002 4:55 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] E-bay "Victorian Velvet Mantle/Jacket"
>
>
> > I was wondering.... if I understand correctly, the velvet was cut, and
> then
> > the area embroidered to accent.  Would this be how the cut velvet would
> have
> > been done in, say, the 16th century?  There is a little girl's gown in
> > Patterns of Fashion that my daughter has begged for for years, and I
would
> > love to be able to try duplicating the pattern in the velvet, but didn't
> > know how.
> > Moira
> >
> > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2136734327
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Sep  9 09:47:45 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] smock patterns
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Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 06:42:23 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Reading through the cut construction and ornamentation
article linked through the Elizabethan costume page I
see an Janet Arnold article in the bibliography
written or published in 1977 in a journal in a
language I don't read.  Does anyone have this article
and is there any way I can get a copy from you?  I've
always found Ms Arnold's diagrams to be followable so
it wouldn't matter if I can't read the text.  Also, as
I was flipping through my Costume in Detail from the
V&A looking at shifts and shirts I found several.  Has
anyone patterned these yet?  The closeups of the
embroidery are great but I'd like to get as many smock
patterns as possible so I can choose which one I'm
going to make and embroider.  (I quilt too so the
thought of spending months or years on something
doesn't faze me.  I've got an embroidery for a wall
hanging that I only work on on vacations or when I
stay at my grandmother's house.)  Thanks everyone.
                              Cassandra

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Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 15:01:35 +0100
Status: RO


Moira wrote:

> Well, it was worth a try.  There is a child's gown in Patterns of
Fashion
> that has the velvet cut in a kind of lattice pattern, and that was
what I
> was hoping to copy.  I may just have to experiment when I get the
time. ;-)

There were a number of ways of achieving this look back in the
Renaissance period, but unfortunately those skills have long been
lost. I would think that "burn-out" using chemicals and a silk backed
velvet is the closest you are going to get nowadays. It is beautiful,
isn't it!

best wishes
Stevie

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Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 15:14:18 +0100
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I'm hoping there is somebody (or bodies) on this list who are natives to =
the above and know of costume books or magazine where I might find ref =
to these, particularly fashionable clothes with traditional influence ? =
But fashion plates & studies also needed

Please ???

Mel

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Date: Mon, 09 Sep 2002 09:25:40 -0700
Status: RO


>
>
>> But at least you haven't come across this "costume" out there: see
>>
>> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=955026444
>
Great minds think alike!  Thnis weekend, I gave an address tracing the
history and development of the stylized "wench" costume, and I used this
ebay listing as an example of how bad it's gotten.

Margo


"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Fun Class
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Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 14:01:23 -0400
Status: RO

When is the deadline, Penny? I'm working on a black brocade Elizabethan with
burgundy sleeves and forepart.  ( I need something new for Coronation!)

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2002 8:51 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Fun Class


>
> On Mon, 9 Sep 2002, Penny Ladnier wrote:
>
> > Okay for those of you who haven't made a costume for the Ball this year
> > <<glaring at Robin>>
>
> <whimper> ...this year I sewed for other people, not myself...
>
> I had a nice pic in last year. Surely I can use that as a club with which
> to beat other people into participation?
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] And you thought Renfaires were bad...
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Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 12:51:44 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO



and in addition to these, the Simplicity pattern's
"petal skirt" for Ren Faire Costumes.

*twitch*

(even worse, I have someone who WANTS one-in shades of
purple, which only reminds me of one of the costumes
Marie Osmond used to wear on the "Donny and Marie
Show".  I can't decide which is worse, the costume
idea itself, or that I remember something like it on a
70's show.)

Angharat

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Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 13:18:18 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Mel
   Rit is a home dye for doing things like tie-dye. 
If you do it on the stove you can overdye almost
anything black and I've used it in the washing machine
to dye SCA costumes ( long story ).  The dye remover
box claims it will remove dye from most articles, no
matter what the fiber content and is safe for any
fabric on which you can use a non-chlorine bleach.  It
also claims to remove organic based food stains from
clothes that are already white.  It's an all-in-one
package with no additional mordants and it does fade
some after fifteen or twenty washings if you don't use
the boil on the stove method for the original dye
bath.  It's safe for the home dyer which is probably
why I'm having trouble with the linen, as most people
would be using poly/cotton or all cotton t-shirts for
this dye.  Is there someplace I can get real
professional dyes and removers?  I know some of my
quilter friends do their own hand dyeing but they're
using 100% cotton, procion dyes and trying for a
mottled appearance.
    I can always use the linen as is,  a pale yellow
and a very pale blue as linings or corset linings for
other eras.  The piece of linen/silk I've been eyeing
is already white so if this undyeing isn't going to
work or be unsafe for the do-it-at-home I'll just know
to buy white for the undergarments.
    Could I overdye the silk with a commercial dye? 
One piece is a bright raspberry pink and the other is
a dull terracotta (coral?)?  Thanks
                       Cassandra

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] And you thought Renfaires were bad...
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Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 17:18:10 -0400
Status: RO

Greetings--

> Great minds think alike!  Thnis weekend, I gave an address tracing the
> history and development of the stylized "wench" costume, and I used this
> ebay listing as an example of how bad it's gotten.

It was funny, sitting in Margo's talk, and sort of dreading, as she showed
progressively worse wench outfits, whether she'd mention THAT one.

Great talk, btw.

Susan (aka Nicolaa)

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From: Rebecca Wendelken <rwendelken@Methodist.edu>
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Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 17:28:11 -0400
Status: RO

    Interesting! I just joined and am in the middle of trying to undye some
pale pink linen, or rather bleach it.  So far -- chlorine bleach does not
work. I tried it diluted and then in a fit tried full strength for five
minutes.  No change.  The only time I got a visable lightening was when I
soaked the linen for 24 hours in a chlorine bleach solution.  This is not
recommended -- I now have a bag full of linen paper raw materials.  I am
also trying sun bleaching (exposing it in a window), oxygen bleach, and
hydrogen peroxide.  I'll let you know how it works.  I have spilt bleach on
an orange linen in the past and it is now spotted with white.  It all
depends on (a) the linen and (b) the original dye. These things tend to work
great when you don't want them to!
    I have tried overdying the linen with tea and that kills the pink, but
leaves it beige.
    On the silk, I overdyed an Indian HOT pink sari and it worked well.  I
used Rit.
Rebecca
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Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 17:49:28 -0400
Status: RO

The last day for the ball is Nov. 10.  But if we start receiving excessive
amounts near the end, I hold the images over for the next year.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] And you thought Renfaires were bad...
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Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 14:52:36 -0700
Status: RO

Oh but I wanna make that skirt and even bought the pattern to do so.
However I am not planning on wearing it to a medieval event as a period
outfit, but to cons and various gothy parties I go to.

Susan


>
>
> and in addition to these, the Simplicity pattern's
> "petal skirt" for Ren Faire Costumes.
>
> *twitch*
>
> (even worse, I have someone who WANTS one-in shades of
> purple, which only reminds me of one of the costumes
> Marie Osmond used to wear on the "Donny and Marie
> Show".  I can't decide which is worse, the costume
> idea itself, or that I remember something like it on a
> 70's show.)
>
> Angharat
>
> __________________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] And you thought Renfaires were bad...
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Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 14:52:36 -0700
Status: RO

Oh but I wanna make that skirt and even bought the pattern to do so.
However I am not planning on wearing it to a medieval event as a period
outfit, but to cons and various gothy parties I go to.

Susan


>
>
> and in addition to these, the Simplicity pattern's
> "petal skirt" for Ren Faire Costumes.
>
> *twitch*
>
> (even worse, I have someone who WANTS one-in shades of
> purple, which only reminds me of one of the costumes
> Marie Osmond used to wear on the "Donny and Marie
> Show".  I can't decide which is worse, the costume
> idea itself, or that I remember something like it on a
> 70's show.)
>
> Angharat
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes
> http://finance.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Sep  9 23:16:31 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ornamentation of velvet wrap
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 11:23:00 -0400
Status: RO

It is very beautiful.  Maybe I'll try the burnout method on a small piece
and see if I can get it right. ;-)
Moira


>
> There were a number of ways of achieving this look back in the
> Renaissance period, but unfortunately those skills have long been
> lost. I would think that "burn-out" using chemicals and a silk backed
> velvet is the closest you are going to get nowadays. It is beautiful,
> isn't it!
>
> best wishes
> Stevie
>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Sep  9 23:53:05 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] A patron saint of dyeing accidents? <g>
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Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 20:20:52 -0700
Status: RO

Thought this might amuse people!

September 9th is the feast day of (among others):

>St. Ciaran of Clonmacnoise (d. c. 545) 
>
>The son of a Connacht (Ireland)
>carpenter, Ciaran showed his generous spirit and miraculous powers at an
>early age (at least if later hagiographers are to be believed, he once
>"helped" his fostermother with her dyeing and turned *everything* blue,
>including the cat (!)). 
>
>Ciaran studied under Finnian of Clonard, Enda, and
>then Senan.  He and several companions then settled at Conmacnoise (Co.
>Meath).  But Ciaran died young, at the suspiciously Christ-like age of
>33---perhaps at his own prayer, perhaps because the other saints of Ireland
>were jealous of his holiness and prayed against him, or perhaps more
>prosaically of the plague.

-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
_________________________________________________________
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From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] undyeing linen
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 07:20:31 +0100
Status: RO

>Rit is a home dye for doing things like tie-dye.

I know vaguely what it is but not what chemicals are in it :) Which is why I
can't be specific about it, if you know what I mean !

>The dye remover
box claims it will remove dye from most articles, no
matter what the fiber content and is safe for any
fabric on which you can use a non-chlorine bleach.

Generally a well applied dye is hjard to remove, and whilst safe I'm sure,
the dye properties & fabric properties are likely to be altered in the
result, not drastically, but the more you do it the worse it is likely to
get.

  It
also claims to remove organic based food stains from
clothes that are already white.  It's an all-in-one
package with no additional mordants and it does fade
some after fifteen or twenty washings if you don't use
the boil on the stove method for the original dye
bath.

I'm a bit lost here the remover or the dye ?

I'd guess it is a direct type possibily then ?

>It's safe for the home dyer which is probably
why I'm having trouble with the linen, as most people
would be using poly/cotton or all cotton t-shirts for
this dye.  Is there someplace I can get real
professional dyes and removers?

I'm assuming you are in the States ? So I couldn't suggest anywhere and to
be honest those chemicals have no place in the home really

>  I know some of my
quilter friends do their own hand dyeing but they're
using 100% cotton, procion dyes and trying for a
mottled appearance.

Procions should dye linen, & should dye mottled

>    I can always use the linen as is,  a pale yellow
and a very pale blue as linings or corset linings for
other eras.  The piece of linen/silk I've been eyeing
is already white so if this undyeing isn't going to
work or be unsafe for the do-it-at-home I'll just know
to buy white for the undergarments.

I'm still not really sure what you are trying to achieve (sorry I might have
missed it) white to use as white or a base to redye ?

>    Could I overdye the silk with a commercial dye?

Yes depending on what colour you were after.

Mel
One piece is a bright raspberry pink and the other is
a dull terracotta (coral?)?  Thanks

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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 10:29:13 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> > Okay for those of you who haven't made a costume for the Ball this
> > year <<glaring at Robin>>
> 
> <whimper> ...this year I sewed for other people, not myself...
> 
> I had a nice pic in last year. Surely I can use that as a club with
> which to beat other people into participation?

And I have a picture to send so I can attend this year!.... Now I just 
need to get the damn scanner to cooperate!


Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ornamentation of velvet wrap
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 10:30:26 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Well, it was worth a try.  There is a child's gown in Patterns of
> Fashion that has the velvet cut in a kind of lattice pattern, and that
> was what I was hoping to copy.  I may just have to experiment when I
> get the time. ;-) Moira

Wasn't the fabric *made* liek that, by the weavers, rather than 
having that done to it afterwards?



Teddy
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 03:07:07 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO


Just finally got the photos from ConJose (WorldCon 2002) up.  The web page
_will_ look better later.  But at least the photos are there now.  These
costumes were an example of flea market/thriftstore/dumpster diving combined
with an awful lot of flashing LEDs.  Picture the mad scientist "inventing"
things in his basement and you've got the idea.
http://www.retro.com/employees/lee/AtomicJackalope.html

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 12:54:22 +0100
Status: RO

Teddy wrote, about Rennaissance velvets:

> Wasn't the fabric *made* liek that, by the weavers, rather than
> having that done to it afterwards?

No, I think the Renaissance velvets Moira is interested in are the
cisele and, possibly, ferronerie. Both involved cutting the pile, to
varying depths, to obtain this most beautiful of fabrics. Eleanora of
Toledo's dress in Bronzino's portrait is of cisele velvet, probably
Genoese. This was a hugely skilful process, long-lost.

best wishes
Stevie

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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 08:11:48 -0500
Status: RO

Cascio Michael wrote:

>Reading through the cut construction and ornamentation
>article linked through the Elizabethan costume page I
>see an Janet Arnold article in the bibliography
>written or published in 1977 in a journal in a
>language I don't read. 
>
Cassandra,

The journal is a German costuming journal, but the article is in 
English.  If you snag the citation from the bibliography and take it to 
your local library, they can get it for you through inter library loan 
(ILL).  

I'm in the midst of making a pattern for myself of the high necked 
Schorleyker smock - based on the line drawing of it in the FiD and what 
I know of men's shirts.  When I'm happy with the results, I'll post the 
instructions up on my site.  I'm hoping to go to the V&A next year to 
see the smocks in Fashion in Detail, particularly the one with the 
interlace pattern enclosing flowers.  If I can get permission to publish 
the pattern on the web, I will do so.

If you are looking for similar embroidery patterns, look for A 
Schole-House for the Needle by Schorleyker.  Lacis and Hedgehog 
Handworks both carry it, I think.  I'm currently embroidering a redwork 
smock for myself with patterns from it, and they work up well.

-Magdalena who is darned pleased to that somebody read her page


> 
>




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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 17:54:13 +0200
Status: RO

Hi Stevie, nice to hear from you again.
I have just had a lot of problems because i have a new computer and getting started again and lock on to the internet and get your mailprogram to work again WHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yes it must have ben a  very longlasting project. 
At Amalienborg Palace here in Copenhagen, they have just had some new wowen "wallpapers" made up specially from old 18th century ones. It is patterns made in velvet on silk background.
They are wowen in the hands and i think the lady told me that the weawers could make 30 cm. a day.

Bjarne  


"Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com> wrote:
> Teddy wrote, about Rennaissance velvets:
> 
> > Wasn't the fabric *made* liek that, by the weavers, rather
> than
> > having that done to it afterwards?
> 
> No, I think the Renaissance velvets Moira is interested in
> are the
> cisele and, possibly, ferronerie. Both involved cutting the
> pile, to
> varying depths, to obtain this most beautiful of fabrics.
> Eleanora of
> Toledo's dress in Bronzino's portrait is of cisele velvet,
> probably
> Genoese. This was a hugely skilful process, long-lost.
> 
> best wishes
> Stevie
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 15:30:59 -0500
Status: RO

Lee,
Those are a riot... They look very similar to the first costumes I made for me and my 
husband 26 years ago for our first Halloween party.  We went as Aliens, I was Luna, he was 
Tik.... And of course, we introduced ourselves as the LunaTiks from the Moon. Won first 
place amongst a bunch of drunks.  :D
-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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Thread-Topic: Medieval Woman calendar not published this year?
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Subject: [h-cost] Medieval Woman calendar not published this year?
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 14:30:58 -0700
Status: RO

I just heard on another list that Workman Publishing will not be publishing The Medieval Woman calendar this year.  Does anyone know if another publisher has picked it up?  

Colleen
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 16:18:31 -0700 (PDT)
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"Linda J. Thompson" <LindaJThompson@comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> Lee,
> Those are a riot... They look very similar to the first costumes I made for me and my 
> husband 26 years ago for our first Halloween party.  We went as Aliens, I was Luna, he was 
> Tik.... And of course, we introduced ourselves as the LunaTiks from the Moon. Won first 
> place amongst a bunch of drunks.  :D

I'm especially proud of that collander-helmet.  We swiped the harness from
a hardhat and wired it inside.  The thing's lopsided because I didn't get
to add the battery pack that was supposed to power some more ELwire and
would have balanced out the one running the huge red LEDs.  _Now_ he wants
me to add cadillac fins to the collander handles.  ;}

I knew I'd done a good job when Kelly Freas (did a lot of the conceptual
art for Star Trek) came up and told us how great it looked.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval Woman calendar not published this year?
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 18:02:09 -0500
Status: RO

I just heard myself and emailed them asking them not to discontinue 
it.  Maybe we should inundate them with requests?

Cheers,
Danielle

At 02:30 PM 9/10/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>I just heard on another list that Workman Publishing will not be 
>publishing The Medieval Woman calendar this year.  Does anyone know if 
>another publisher has picked it up?
>
>Colleen

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ornamentation of velvet wrap
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 16:04:35 -0700
Status: RO

If you do, please pass along instructions. Even trial and error that you are
not entirely happy with could be useful to the list.  I am DYING to try some
new techniques on some velvets I bought for Italian Renn pieces.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com

Theatrical Costume Design
"O! Swear not by the moon, the inconstant moon,
That monthly changes in her circled orb,
Lest that thy love prove likewise variable."
Romeo & Juliet, II, ii - W. Shakespeare


----- Original Message -----
From: "Heather Cutler" <moirabeaneoin@prodigy.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 8:23 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ornamentation of velvet wrap


> It is very beautiful.  Maybe I'll try the burnout method on a small piece
> and see if I can get it right. ;-)
> Moira
>
>
> >
> > There were a number of ways of achieving this look back in the
> > Renaissance period, but unfortunately those skills have long been
> > lost. I would think that "burn-out" using chemicals and a silk backed
> > velvet is the closest you are going to get nowadays. It is beautiful,
> > isn't it!
> >
> > best wishes
> > Stevie
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval Woman calendar not published this year?
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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 09:11:41 +1000
Status: RO

I think inundate them with requests but it maybe to late for this year?

Sharon

>I just heard myself and emailed them asking them not to discontinue 
>it.  Maybe we should inundate them with requests?
>
>Cheers,
>Danielle

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Bella?= <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ornamentation of velvet wrap
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 10:54:07 +1000 (EST)
Status: RO

 --- Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote: > 
> > Well, it was worth a try.  There is a child's gown
> in Patterns of
> > Fashion that has the velvet cut in a kind of
> lattice pattern, and that
> > was what I was hoping to copy.  I may just have to
> experiment when I
> > get the time. ;-) Moira
> 
> Wasn't the fabric *made* liek that, by the weavers,
> rather than 
> having that done to it afterwards?


Yes - on that particular gown voided cut velvet is
used, and voiding is done during the weaving of the
velvet.


Bella

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Bella?= <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ornamentation of velvet wrap
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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 11:32:45 +1000 (EST)
Status: RO

 --- Stevie Gamble <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
wrote: > Teddy wrote, about Rennaissance velvets:
> 
> > Wasn't the fabric *made* liek that, by the
> weavers, rather than
> > having that done to it afterwards?
> 
> No, I think the Renaissance velvets Moira is
> interested in are the
> cisele and, possibly, ferronerie. Both involved
> cutting the pile, to
> varying depths, to obtain this most beautiful of
> fabrics.

According to my source, "cisele" refers to the pattern
obtained during weaving, in this case patterns in cut
and uncut pile - not voided areas. The one mentioned
in PoF is voided velvet, which is obtained during the
weaving also, but has areas with satin ground
(non-pile).

"Ferronnerie" refers to a spefic type of pattern, not
a type of weaving process. Ferronnerie indicates a
wrought iron look in the pattern. Most of these appear
to be pile-on-pile velvet.



> Eleanora of
> Toledo's dress in Bronzino's portrait is of cisele
> velvet, probably
> Genoese. 

According to my source it is described as a "cut
voided velvet with brocading and boucle wefts in gold
and silver (riccio sopra riccio velvet)". These
velvets brocaded with gold or silver were also known
as "allucciolato" and "a riccio d'oro". The pattern is
described as arabesqued. As to the source of the
fabric, it is given as Florence. Considering that
Eleonora had two master weavers installed at the
Palazzo Vecchio "at her service", it was likely to
have been specially woven for her.


> This was a hugely skilful process, long lost.

The processes have not been been completely lost, but
they are extremely expensive to do. Mostly they are
hand done. Take Luigi Bevilaqua of Venice:

"The main boast of the company is that range of
fabrics still hand-produced on original
eighteenth/nineteenth-century looms. Now as then, all
the phases of manufacture are manual - from the
creation of the perforated cartoons that reproduce the
exclusive fabric designs, to the preparation of the
weft and the organisation of the individual threads."

They are "The sole Italian producer of soprarizzo
velvet".

<http://www.luigi-bevilacqua.com/english/bvqcatnew.mv?handmade_velvet>

Out of the reach of most of us, but well worth a look.
:)





=====
Lady Bella Lucia da Verona
Innilgard, Lochac

The Realm of Venus
http://au.geocities.com/bella_lucia_da_verona
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Sep 10 21:53:54 2002
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 18:54:14 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Me again.
    I was trying to get enough color out of the linen
so I could overdye it with the hope of having some
idea of what color I would get in the end.  That and
the experimentation of learning how to do undyeing. 
I'm an information junkie and like to know how to do
things just for the sake knowing.  I can butcher a
deer, rewire a house, cook over an open fire without
burning anyone, etc.
    What color is okay for Elizabethan corsets?
    I really liked the cut construction and
ornamentation article.  It was exactly the info I was
looking for so I'm glad you posted it.  Are you any
further along on the rest of the links?  Any
information on the appropriate drawn thread work for
joining lengths of linen to make a long enough piece
for a shift?  As the pale blue linen is the wrong
color for a shift I need to piece some lengths
together and then decorate the seams.
                                 Cassandra (who will
eventually have her teen-ager teach her to cut and
paste so I can reply with inserts from the post I'm
replying to)

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Sep 10 22:30:23 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] undyeing linen-and re-dyeing
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 19:20:12 -0700
Status: RO

** Is there someplace I can get real
**professional dyes and removers?  I know some of my
**quilter friends do their own hand dyeing but they're
**using 100% cotton, procion dyes and trying for a
**mottled appearance.


Have you tried http://www.dharmatrading.com/   I am not sure where you
are (US or UK?)

They have lots of different dyes and dye removal chemicals.  I have used
Dharma's Dyehouse Color Remover
http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/1535-AA.shtml with varying success
on both silk and linen.  I have overdyed both with procion with great
success (no streaking or mottles)  with and without trying to remove
color-you just have to understand that the color charts you look at for
dyes are usually representative of a particular fabric type and may be
different if you change fabrics.  You also have to be willing to use
some fabric for testing or take the risk that it may not be what you
want-I just love to fiddle with it!

Sg


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Sep 11 01:55:22 2002
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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 06:59:20 +0100
Status: RO

>I was trying to get enough color out of the linen
so I could overdye it with the hope of having some
idea of what color I would get in the end.

Well pale brown is generally the best you'll get I think si I'd go for
overdye at this stage.

> That and
the experimentation of learning how to do undyeing.

For info the term is stripping :)

>What color is okay for Elizabethan corsets?

For that you need somebody else :)

Mel


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Sep 11 03:11:18 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Online Costume Ball (New Fun Class)
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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 03:14:35 -0400
Status: RO

Teddy,

Do your drug stores have scanners.  Ours does.  YIPPEE!!!  I am so glad you
are coming to the online ball.  Are we going to recognize you?

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Sep 11 03:18:24 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Deliberately Concealed Clothing Site
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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 17:12:35 +1000
Status: RO

I was doing a bit of digging around the net on Folklore Magic and came 
across this site

www.concealedgarments.org
Its an inventory of some clothing that has been deliberately hidden in 
buildings. It tells you what has been found, where it currently is.

I particularly like the picture of the reigate doublet restored (but I want 
more detail)
http://www.concealedgarments.org/research/case_studies/reigate.html
early 17th
The y also give an indication of current location


Sharon

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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 17:14:56 +1000
Status: RO

Ack. I meant to type replica. in the following

"I particularly like the picture of the reigate doublet restored (but I 
want more detail)
http://www.concealedgarments.org/research/case_studies/reigate.html
early 17th
The y also give an indication of current location"


Sorry
Sharon

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Fun Class
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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 03:36:45 -0400
Status: RO

Poor Robin... needs a new dress... doesn't anyone have something in your
closet?

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Fun Class
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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 01:02:50 -0700
Status: RO




>From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Fun Class
>Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 03:36:45 -0400
>
>Poor Robin... needs a new dress... doesn't anyone have something in your
>closet?
>
>Penny Ladnier


I have so much in my closet that the wrought iron canopy of my bed is ALSO 
1/2 full of my clothes.  But, God forbid I should have to wear "normal" 
clothes for anything.  *grins and giggles*

Jennifer Sena
Distant Designs
http://home.teleport.com/~cedric/distdesi

I wont hurt you, I just want to dress you up!!


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Sep 11 04:35:16 2002
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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] more undye-ed linen
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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 01:36:26 -0700
Status: RO

Well, after five boxes of Rit dye remover and a lot of heating back up in 
the machine, the construction worker orange linen is now a sort of peachy 
color.  All 9.5 yards are in the dryer now about half way dry and it feels 
sooooooo soft.

I was hoping I could make it purple, of course, but it's still a little 
darker than I had hoped.  I'm not sure what would come out.  At least now I 
don't need sunglasses and SPF 50 to be in the same room with all of it. ;}


Jennifer Sena
Distant Designs
http://home.teleport.com/~cedric/distdesi

I wont hurt you, I just want to dress you up!!


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ornamentation of velvet wrap
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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 10:54:32 +0100
Status: RO

Bella wrote:

----- > According to my source, "cisele" refers to the pattern
> obtained during weaving, in this case patterns in cut
> and uncut pile - not voided areas.

Well, it would be helpful if you could let us know your source.
According to my sources, (the one most easily coming to hand at the
moment is "Silk", Jaques Anquetil, Flammarion, who devotes 30 pages to
Renaissance velvets, pp32-62) "cisele" was obtained by
"shearing the pile loops on the fabric warp to different
heights(referred to as alto-basso) in order to create a variety of
intricately textured patterns. The contrast between the velvety
surfaces of the pattern and the matte background of the woven fabric
produces shimmering effects in silken shades of red, purple or
turquoise blue." (page 37)
This not a process carried out during the weaving; it took place after
the fabric had been woven, by artisans specialising in this skill,
using special shears.


The one mentioned
> in PoF is voided velvet, which is obtained during the
> weaving also, but has areas with satin ground
> (non-pile).
> "Ferronnerie" refers to a spefic type of pattern, not
> a type of weaving process. Ferronnerie indicates a
> wrought iron look in the pattern. Most of these appear
> to be pile-on-pile velvet.
>

Well, I don't have POF with me at the moment, hence my reference to
Renaissance velvets in general, and the ferronnerie patterns in
particular. Again, Anquetil asserts that ferronnerie pattern was
achieved by shearing the velvet, see page 37 again.

>
> > Eleanora of
> > Toledo's dress in Bronzino's portrait is of cisele
> > velvet, probably
> > Genoese.

> According to my source it is described as a "cut
> voided velvet with brocading and boucle wefts in gold
> and silver (riccio sopra riccio velvet)". These
> velvets brocaded with gold or silver were also known
> as "allucciolato" and "a riccio d'oro". The pattern is
> described as arabesqued. As to the source of the
> fabric, it is given as Florence. Considering that
> Eleonora had two master weavers installed at the
> Palazzo Vecchio "at her service", it was likely to
> have been specially woven for her.

In the absence of your source I can only note that Anquetil records
that the finest cisele was created in Venice and Genoa, and that the
fabric for Eleanora's dress was probably Genoese (page 48). Florence
had its own very specialised silks,primarily gold and silver brocades,
but we need to bear in mind that just because a type of  fabric was in
existence in Venice, or Genoa, it doesn't necessarily mean that the
other Italian city-states could also produce it to that standard, or
indeed, at all. Trade secrets and skills were guarded with
considerable enthusiasm, and the great expansion of silk production in
various areas was often when individuals moved, for one reason or
another, to new areas.

>
> > This was a hugely skilful process, long lost.


> The processes have not been been completely lost, but
> they are extremely expensive to do. Mostly they are
> hand done.

There is no-one capable of creating cisele velvet today. In order to
do so someone is going to have to do a great deal of practising with
the cisele shears on silk velvet, and I doubt that any manufacturer is
going to want to provide the wherewithal for that:-)

best wishes
Stevie




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ornamentation of velvet wrap
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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 10:56:06 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> > Wasn't the fabric *made* like that, by the weavers, rather than
> > having that done to it afterwards?
> 
> No, I think the Renaissance velvets Moira is interested in are the
> cisele and, possibly, ferronerie. Both involved cutting the pile, to
> varying depths, to obtain this most beautiful of fabrics. Eleanora of
> Toledo's dress in Bronzino's portrait is of cisele velvet, probably
> Genoese. This was a hugely skilful process, long-lost.

But surely that was doen by the fabric manufacturers/weavers, 
*not* by the tailors/dressmakers who made the garments from the 
fabric....???



Teddy
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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 11:26:30 +0100
Status: RO

Teddy wrote:

> > > Wasn't the fabric *made* like that, by the weavers, rather than
> > > having that done to it afterwards?
> >
> > No, I think the Renaissance velvets Moira is interested in are the
> > cisele and, possibly, ferronerie. Both involved cutting the pile,
to
> > varying depths, to obtain this most beautiful of fabrics. Eleanora
of
> > Toledo's dress in Bronzino's portrait is of cisele velvet,
probably
> > Genoese. This was a hugely skilful process, long-lost.
>
> But surely that was doen by the fabric manufacturers/weavers,
> *not* by the tailors/dressmakers who made the garments from the
> fabric....???>

Oh, it wasn't done by tailors or dressmakers; perish the thought! Or,
for that matter, the weavers. It was the sort of highly specialist
skill that took years to achieve, and these were vastly expensive
fabrics. I think that there's a parallel with the embroiderers; it's
been suggested that Botticelli, alone among Florentine painters, was
allowed to design the embroideries shown in Primavera. The guild of
embroiderers ruled with an iron hand...

best wishes
Stevie




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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Online Costume Ball (New Fun Class)
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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 11:56:52 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Hi Penny,

> Do your drug stores have scanners. 

We have our own at home (when I can get far ewnough into the 
room tot use the computer, it's piled with boxes full of books that 
will go back on the shelves lining the hallway as soon as we get 
around to finisheing stripping and repainting the hallway (18 months 
and counting) and several at work.  The problrm is that the ones at 
work either produce crap/low-res images or just plain refuse to 
save in a format I can open.

> Ours does.  YIPPEE!!!  I am so glad you are coming to the online
> ball.  Are we going to recognize you? 

I shoudl think so.... I't the set of studeo shots I had take, last year,  
of the 18th century costume that was stolen just before Christmas.



Teddy
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Sep 11 09:30:26 2002
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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 08:34:48 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Wed, 11 Sep 2002, Penny Ladnier wrote:

> Poor Robin... needs a new dress... doesn't anyone have something in
> your closet?

I have a list of about five projects ready to go, and I have material
(fabric and linings) for all of them EXCEPT the crucial fitted underdress
that will be worn with most of them. I cannot make the overdresses till I
have the underdress. And for that, I'm waiting for a medium blue worsted.
I have navy, I have other colors, but no medium blue, and none in the
stores (though I'm working at the store with the best worsted collection
in town!).

Once I have that, this place will turn into a garment processing plant. On
the list is a 1400 sideless surcote of rose wool and (I hope) rabbit fur,
a 1420 bag-sleeved houppelande out of a plum-and-red herringbone wool, a
red silk 1450 "early" V-necked gown, a black worsted 1480 "late" V-necked
gown, maybe a red or teal short-sleeved wool underdress (with pin-on
sleeves) to go under the latter depending on what's left in the stash.
There's also enough silk, wool, and linen around to do the proper 1200 and
1300 outfits, to follow up the 1100 I have already done (but which needs
an underdress too, hmm). But those won't be done before the Ball, sorry!

All this planning from someone who typically sews one outfit a year if I'm
lucky.

--Robin

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Sep 11 13:16:01 2002
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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 12:19:52 -0500 (CDT)
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I've been going through my fabric stash (look for some items for sale
soon!) and I am now facing a sizable box of my wool "experiments." These
were fabrics I washed, fulled, and/or dyed that didn't come out as well as
I'd like. Now, if the wool isn't going to wash up, I'm glad to find that
out *before* I make it into a garment. But that does leave me with some
sad remains.

So, I'm wondering if any of the wool experts on this list have any
suggestions on how I might salvage these pieces. The chief problem I have
is when the wool seems to be shrinking or pulling unevenly. I'm used to
seeing the body of the fabric shrink more than the selvedges (which end up
rippling a bit), but the problem comes when the effect seems to happen all
over, unevenly. I'm not getting a lot of pilling, and the color is fine.
It's just the weave is rippling or pulling irregularly all over. I also
sometimes get a rough surface (on worsteds) or a crepey one (on woolens),
even when the original was very smooth. Ironing doesn't help.

Is there a trick I can use to improve this already-ruined pieces -- a
particular washing agent, or a way of washing or drying that would even
out the weave/shrinkage/surface?

These are usually large pieces -- many yards -- so I can't, say, stretch
them out by hand.

Thanks in advance for any help.

--Robin

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Sep 11 15:26:43 2002
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Try sending a piece to a dry cleaner to steam professionally?  Be very clear 
that you are not holding them responsible for the results, though.
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">Try sending a piece to a dry cleaner to steam professionally?&nbsp; Be very clear that you are not holding them responsible for the results, though.<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 19:55:35 -0400
Status: RO

I can't wait to see you Teddy!  Is your costume orange?

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need wool washing help
To: h-costume@indra.com
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10209111212270.31159-100000@shell.nightowl.net> from "Robin Netherton" at Sep 11, 2002 12:19:52 PM
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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 17:36:56 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

I've never tried to salvage such for garments, but wool experiments have
many other uses -- filling for comforters for those allergic to down, 
wrapped around board fora  pressing table, cut into bits for tailors hams,
etc etc etc.

.heather.


> 
> 
> I've been going through my fabric stash (look for some items for sale
> soon!) and I am now facing a sizable box of my wool "experiments." These
> were fabrics I washed, fulled, and/or dyed that didn't come out as well as
> I'd like. Now, if the wool isn't going to wash up, I'm glad to find that
> out *before* I make it into a garment. But that does leave me with some
> sad remains.
> 
> So, I'm wondering if any of the wool experts on this list have any
> suggestions on how I might salvage these pieces. The chief problem I have
> is when the wool seems to be shrinking or pulling unevenly. I'm used to
> seeing the body of the fabric shrink more than the selvedges (which end up
> rippling a bit), but the problem comes when the effect seems to happen all
> over, unevenly. I'm not getting a lot of pilling, and the color is fine.
> It's just the weave is rippling or pulling irregularly all over. I also
> sometimes get a rough surface (on worsteds) or a crepey one (on woolens),
> even when the original was very smooth. Ironing doesn't help.
> 
> Is there a trick I can use to improve this already-ruined pieces -- a
> particular washing agent, or a way of washing or drying that would even
> out the weave/shrinkage/surface?
> 
> These are usually large pieces -- many yards -- so I can't, say, stretch
> them out by hand.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help.
> 
> --Robin
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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Subject: Fw: [h-cost] more undyeing linen
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 07:07:56 +0100
Status: RO


----- Original Message ----- 
From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 6:14 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] more undyeing linen


> >
> > >What color is okay for Elizabethan corsets?
> 
> I've seen written references to red corsets and a portrait of a pink
> corset.  The two extant corsets are both cream colored, one of cream silk
> and one of cream cotton/linen fustian.
> 
> I prefer white or cream, if only so that I don't worry about sweating and
> having color bleed onto my outer garments.  :)
> 
> Drea
> 
> 
> 

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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 07:16:58 +0100
Status: RO

Generally it sounds as iff the warp & weft are badly matched hence the
dimension stability is really bad, once they have done this there isn't a
great deal you can do to undo it, but you could try being really harsh on
the fabric and boil washing it, this can sometimes result in a felt or a
stetchy fabric that is usable in some projects. Unfortunatly the fault lies
in the original processing of the fabric (before you got it.)

If you did this again, I'd tend to say do a small piece and  if it happened
return the lot for a refund, I'm not sure of you laws etc there but here in
the UK you should have no problemns returning the fabric as unsuitable.

Mel


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Subject: [h-cost] AMAZING 1930s WHITE FUR COAT vintage 30s
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 11:15:57 +0100
Status: RO

Hi all,

For once an E-Bay description is fair: I think that this coat really
is amazing!

see:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2139470007&rd=1

I am wondering what the pattern of a coat like this is; presumably a
circle starting around knee-length attached to a tight fitting
tailored body, but I'm far from sure. Can anyone enlighten me?

best wishes
Stevie

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Sep 12 06:38:23 2002
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 04:39:09 -0600
Status: RO

On Thu, Sep 12, 2002 at 11:15:57AM +0100, Stevie Gamble wrote:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2139470007&rd=1

If it's not a circle attached to the upper half (which might be under
the breasts instead of at the waist to smooth the lines), then it
could be gores to give it all the fullness.

					...eliz
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From: "Rebecca Anderson" <lady_adele@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need wool washing help
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 21:48:23 +0930
Status: RO


Robin wrote:
>
>I've been going through my fabric stash (look for some items for sale
>soon!) and I am now facing a sizable box of my wool "experiments." These
>were fabrics I washed, fulled, and/or dyed that didn't come out as well as
>I'd like. Now, if the wool isn't going to wash up, I'm glad to find that
>out *before* I make it into a garment. But that does leave me with some
>sad remains.
>
>So, I'm wondering if any of the wool experts on this list have any
>suggestions on how I might salvage these pieces. The chief problem I have
>is when the wool seems to be shrinking or pulling unevenly. I'm used to
>seeing the body of the fabric shrink more than the selvedges (which end up
>rippling a bit), but the problem comes when the effect seems to happen all
>over, unevenly. I'm not getting a lot of pilling, and the color is fine.
>It's just the weave is rippling or pulling irregularly all over. I also
>sometimes get a rough surface (on worsteds) or a crepey one (on woolens),
>even when the original was very smooth. Ironing doesn't help.
>
>Is there a trick I can use to improve this already-ruined pieces -- a
>particular washing agent, or a way of washing or drying that would even
>out the weave/shrinkage/surface?
>
>These are usually large pieces -- many yards -- so I can't, say, stretch
>them out by hand.
>
>Thanks in advance for any help.
>
>--Robin
>
Hello
There are several tricks that I've learned from my mum.
Wool should always be washed in warm water(Prevents streaching).
You should always use a detergent that is specificaly for woolens(prevents 
"fluffyness").
Woolens are best dried flat(prevents streaching), on a warm day.
And it's best not to use a washing machine. For large amounts of woolen 
fabric I put it in the bath-tub with water and detergent and "walk" on it.

Rebecca


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Subject: [h-cost] Advice on medieval "look" -- pls reply privately
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 08:24:24 -0400
Status: RO

Please reply to sheilabb@earthlink.net



Dear Friends,

I'm thrilled that our Italian musical tour this year will include a
performance of Hildegard von Bingen's "Ordo Virtutem",
the battle between the Devil and the Heavenly Virtues for
Anima (Soul).  We have 17 women in the Virtue chorus,
and as we don't always have the same personnel from year
to year, we can't afford (nor can they!) to make real period
costumes.

Our performance "outfits" are basic black -- black sweaters,
shirts, skirts, pants, whatever, just no jeans -- and I'm trying
to come up with something that can go over the "basic black"
that would *suggest* something medieval-ish (Hildegard is
late 11th c German).  The issues here are not authenticity of
fabric or accuracy (gasp) of design.  I just need something
reasonably easy and not very fitted to make for 17 women
(in a variety of figures!) that will be easy to get in and out of,
easy to pack in a suitcase and won't get too wrinkled so it
will still look good for the 12 days we're there in February...

I'm overwhelmed with things in other parts of my life and
will not see a reply here, so please offer your advice and
share your wisdom by replying to me at  sheilabb@earthlink.net

Hoping for some great ideas and tips!

Sheila B

Sheila Beardslee Bosworth      sheilabb@earthlink.net

http://www.earlymusicboston.com
for New England Early Music CALENDAR & BRS-West

29 Main Street, Acton MA 01720-3505
VOX  978/263.9926      FAX  978/263.2366




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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need wool washing help
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 13:30:37 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Rebecca Anderson 

> There are several tricks that I've learned from my mum.

Well, I have learned all those from my mum too *G* Mums are great, but not
always very practical. what I do nowadays against my mum's very good advice,
is:

> Wool should always be washed in warm water(Prevents streaching).

I always wash on 30-40 C

> You should always use a detergent that is specificaly for woolens(prevents 
> "fluffyness").

The best one I ever came across is the Lavender wool wash from Australia,
available in the UK via Lakeland. Fantastic stuff, and everything smells of
lavender too.

> Woolens are best dried flat(prevents streaching), on a warm day.

I can't be bothered because A) warm days??? here???? harharhar and B) no space.
I always dry it handging from a clothes' line but keep turning it as often as
possible to prevent the worst hang-marks.

> And it's best not to use a washing machine. 
I ALWAYS wash ALL of my wool in the machine. I hate hate hate hate hate hand
washing *G* It works a treat so far, no disasters, but I agree with Mel I
think, Robin, that your wool was badly woven to start with. What a shame!

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 09:39:13 EDT
Status: RO


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In a message dated 9/11/02 12:18:09 PM Mountain Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> Robin wrote:
> 
> So, I'm wondering if any of the wool experts on this list have any
> suggestions on how I might salvage these pieces. The chief problem I have
> is when the wool seems to be shrinking or pulling unevenly. I'm used to
> seeing the body of the fabric shrink more than the selvedges (which end up
> rippling a bit), but the problem comes when the effect seems to happen all
> over, unevenly. I'm not getting a lot of pilling, and the color is fine.
> It's just the weave is rippling or pulling irregularly all over. I also
> sometimes get a rough surface (on worsteds) or a crepey one (on woolens),
> even when the original was very smooth. Ironing doesn't help.
> 
> Is there a trick I can use to improve this already-ruined pieces -- a
> particular washing agent, or a way of washing or drying that would even
> out the weave/shrinkage/surface?
> 
> These are usually large pieces -- many yards -- so I can't, say, stretch
> them out by hand.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help.
> 
> --Robin
> 
> 
> Hi Robin,

I am not a wool expert but I have had some luck using a ton of liquid fabric 
softener to improve the texture and workability of wool.  I've also found 
that using dishwashing detergent (in very very small amounts) is helpful in 
wool washing projects.  Give em' both a try.  Good Luck!

Cheers!

Pasha


--part1_121.16aa427c.2ab1f301_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 9/11/02 12:18:09 PM Mountain Daylight Time, h-costume-request@indra.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#800000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Robin wrote:<BR>
<BR>
So, I'm wondering if any of the wool experts on this list have any<BR>
suggestions on how I might salvage these pieces. The chief problem I have<BR>
is when the wool seems to be shrinking or pulling unevenly. I'm used to<BR>
seeing the body of the fabric shrink more than the selvedges (which end up<BR>
rippling a bit), but the problem comes when the effect seems to happen all<BR>
over, unevenly. I'm not getting a lot of pilling, and the color is fine.<BR>
It's just the weave is rippling or pulling irregularly all over. I also<BR>
sometimes get a rough surface (on worsteds) or a crepey one (on woolens),<BR>
even when the original was very smooth. Ironing doesn't help.<BR>
<BR>
Is there a trick I can use to improve this already-ruined pieces -- a<BR>
particular washing agent, or a way of washing or drying that would even<BR>
out the weave/shrinkage/surface?<BR>
<BR>
These are usually large pieces -- many yards -- so I can't, say, stretch<BR>
them out by hand.<BR>
<BR>
Thanks in advance for any help.<BR>
<BR>
--Robin<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE>Hi Robin,<BR>
<BR>
I am not a wool expert but I have had some luck using a ton of liquid fabric softener to improve the texture and workability of wool.&nbsp; I've also found that using dishwashing detergent (in very very small amounts) is helpful in wool washing projects.&nbsp; Give em' both a try.&nbsp; Good Luck!<BR>
<BR>
Cheers!<BR>
<BR>
Pasha<BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
</FONT></HTML>
--part1_121.16aa427c.2ab1f301_boundary--
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Advice on medieval "look" -- pls reply privately
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 06:57:00 -0700
Status: RO

What about a tabard, or something like that?


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <sheilabb@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 5:24 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Advice on medieval "look" -- pls reply privately


> Please reply to sheilabb@earthlink.net
> 
> 
> 
> Dear Friends,
> 
> I'm thrilled that our Italian musical tour this year will include a
> performance of Hildegard von Bingen's "Ordo Virtutem",
> the battle between the Devil and the Heavenly Virtues for
> Anima (Soul).  We have 17 women in the Virtue chorus,
> and as we don't always have the same personnel from year
> to year, we can't afford (nor can they!) to make real period
> costumes.
> 
> Our performance "outfits" are basic black -- black sweaters,
> shirts, skirts, pants, whatever, just no jeans -- and I'm trying
> to come up with something that can go over the "basic black"
> that would *suggest* something medieval-ish (Hildegard is
> late 11th c German).  The issues here are not authenticity of
> fabric or accuracy (gasp) of design.  I just need something
> reasonably easy and not very fitted to make for 17 women
> (in a variety of figures!) that will be easy to get in and out of,
> easy to pack in a suitcase and won't get too wrinkled so it
> will still look good for the 12 days we're there in February...
> 
> I'm overwhelmed with things in other parts of my life and
> will not see a reply here, so please offer your advice and
> share your wisdom by replying to me at  sheilabb@earthlink.net
> 
> Hoping for some great ideas and tips!
> 
> Sheila B
> 
> Sheila Beardslee Bosworth      sheilabb@earthlink.net
> 
> http://www.earlymusicboston.com
> for New England Early Music CALENDAR & BRS-West
> 
> 29 Main Street, Acton MA 01720-3505
> VOX  978/263.9926      FAX  978/263.2366
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Sep 12 10:51:45 2002
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To: H-Costume <h-costume@indra.com>,
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Subject: [h-cost] UK Interested in 'Plastic Whalebone' corset boning from Wissner?
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 15:48:03 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

Dear All,

I just wondered if someone on the lists here is interested in sharing an order
from Wissner in Germany for their superb plastic whalebone corest boning. The
minimum amount is 200 meters and that is too much for just one person, thus I
am looking for people who are interested in sharing an order. The order would
go to the UK, and I have their samples and price list here.

Please contact me at marquis@kipar.org if you are interested, many people say
their boning is the best.


Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: [h-cost] More...Advice on medieval "look" -- pls reply privately
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 12:29:03 -0400
Status: RO

Please reply to sheilabb@earthlink.net

Me again! I guess I was not clear in what I was asking for.

I'm looking for some kind of jacket/wrap/tunic item
that can be worn *over* our basic black outfits --
those marble churches are cold!  ;-)

I have not the time or money to make true medieval clothing,
but I need to suggest a medieval look.  Co-director wants
tops that have the depth of stained glass, so that when
the virtues are standing on the altar steps (or at least
in front of the audience) we see an array of rich color
(blues, reds, greens, purples, golds, etc).

So, if you had to come up with some kind of top type
item that is a relaxed fit and can be worn over the rest
of the "basic black" concert outfit....  what would it be?

I'm afraid I have only come up with things like haori
jackets, bat-wing type wraps, etc. that meet the
requirements for not much fabric per person, easy to
make and won't take much room in a 23" suitcase.

T-tunics slit up the front? Anyone have more ideas?
We don't need to look like a religious order..
I'm grateful for any tips or leads...

Sheila B


Earlier I wrote


Dear Friends,

I'm thrilled that our Italian musical tour this year will include a
performance of Hildegard von Bingen's "Ordo Virtutem",
the battle between the Devil and the Heavenly Virtues for
Anima (Soul).  We have 17 women in the Virtue chorus,
and as we don't always have the same personnel from year
to year, we can't afford (nor can they!) to make real period
costumes.

Our performance "outfits" are basic black -- black sweaters,
shirts, skirts, pants, whatever, just no jeans -- and I'm trying
to come up with something that can go over the "basic black"
that would *suggest* something medieval-ish (Hildegard is
late 11th c German).  The issues here are not authenticity of
fabric or accuracy (gasp) of design.  I just need something
reasonably easy and not very fitted to make for 17 women
(in a variety of figures!) that will be easy to get in and out of,
easy to pack in a suitcase and won't get too wrinkled so it
will still look good for the 12 days we're there in February...

I'm overwhelmed with things in other parts of my life and
will not see a reply here, so please offer your advice and
share your wisdom by replying to me at  sheilabb@earthlink.net

Hoping for some great ideas and tips!

Sheila B


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Sep 12 12:48:09 2002
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
cc: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] More...Advice on medieval "look" -- pls reply privately
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 11:51:54 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Thu, 12 Sep 2002 sheilabb@earthlink.net wrote:

> I'm looking for some kind of jacket/wrap/tunic item that can be worn
> *over* our basic black outfits -- those marble churches are cold!  
> ;-)

Tabards -- front and back rectangular pieces connected at the shoulders,
hanging loose. Scoop for the neck in front, smaller scoop in back. Hip or
thigh length. Fits anyone.

> I have not the time or money to make true medieval clothing, but I
> need to suggest a medieval look.  Co-director wants tops that have the
> depth of stained glass, so that when the virtues are standing on the
> altar steps (or at least in front of the audience) we see an array of
> rich color (blues, reds, greens, purples, golds, etc).

Perhaps for more interest, make each two-color, divided diagonally? E.g.
red/blue, purple/green, anything/gold. Add black plain trim around the
edges and along the division line. There's your stained-glass look, and
also a medieval heraldic image.

--Robin


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Sep 12 12:48:41 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] More...Advice on medieval "look" -- pls reply privately
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 11:51:54 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Thu, 12 Sep 2002 sheilabb@earthlink.net wrote:

> I'm looking for some kind of jacket/wrap/tunic item that can be worn
> *over* our basic black outfits -- those marble churches are cold!  
> ;-)

Tabards -- front and back rectangular pieces connected at the shoulders,
hanging loose. Scoop for the neck in front, smaller scoop in back. Hip or
thigh length. Fits anyone.

> I have not the time or money to make true medieval clothing, but I
> need to suggest a medieval look.  Co-director wants tops that have the
> depth of stained glass, so that when the virtues are standing on the
> altar steps (or at least in front of the audience) we see an array of
> rich color (blues, reds, greens, purples, golds, etc).

Perhaps for more interest, make each two-color, divided diagonally? E.g.
red/blue, purple/green, anything/gold. Add black plain trim around the
edges and along the division line. There's your stained-glass look, and
also a medieval heraldic image.

--Robin


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Sep 12 13:12:06 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK Interested in 'Plastic Whalebone' corset boning
	from Wissner?
From: sylvia <sylvia@ntw.net>
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 11:00:01 -0600
Status: RO

on 9/12/02 8:48 AM, N Kipar at nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com wrote:

> Dear All,
> 
> I just wondered if someone on the lists here is interested in sharing an order
> from Wissner in Germany for their superb plastic whalebone corest boning. The
> minimum amount is 200 meters and that is too much for just one person, thus I
> am looking for people who are interested in sharing an order. The order would
> go to the UK, and I have their samples and price list here.
> 
> Please contact me at marquis@kipar.org if you are interested, many people say
> their boning is the best.

Since this is plastic, how does it compare to Rigilene?  I have been
thinking lately of getting some sturdier boning but I'd like something that
doesn't require buying equipment to cut and grind as steel boning needs.


Sylvia Rognstad
-- 
Divinity Designs and Emeralds
http://www.d-e-designs.com

> 
> 
> Nicole
> 
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
> Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: marquis@kipar.org
> 
> __________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 14:41:21 -0400
Status: RO

Please reply to sheilabb@earthlink.net

thanks for all the good ideas which are coming in.

More information I realize now I should have shared:

Hildegard specifies colors and icons for her virtues.
And singers don't want headgear.  ;-)

I'll have a chat (oops, typo'ed 'chant' -- good pun!)
with my co-director to see if a tabard sort of thing
would do.  These are worn over black tops with either
black pants or skirts, but these churches are also cold.
I felt that sleeves would be good as they'd provide
warmth too!  If only we had the right colors of fleece!  ;-)

Thanks to Robin, Linda, Nancy, Catherine, Betsy &
Carolyn for suggestions and ideas so far...
I'll simmer this at the back of my brain for a bit.





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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Sep 12 17:25:34 2002
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK Interested in 'Plastic Whalebone' corset boning from Wissner?
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 23:27:00 +0200
Status: RO

Dear Nikole.
When i made your blue baroque dress, i ordered the minimum amount, and i
still have a lot left.
If you were interrested, you could buy a roll of their boning from me. Dont
know how much there is in a roll, but i shall check tomorrow. I think i only
used 1/2 a roll for your bodice.

Bjarne


----- Original Message -----
From: "N Kipar" <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>; "Angelcynn List"
<angelcynn@yahoogroups.com>; "Lumieres List" <lumieres@egroups.com>;
"Lagedor ListSmartgroups" <lagedor@smartgroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 4:48 PM
Subject: [h-cost] UK Interested in 'Plastic Whalebone' corset boning from
Wissner?


> Dear All,
>
> I just wondered if someone on the lists here is interested in sharing an
order
> from Wissner in Germany for their superb plastic whalebone corest boning.
The
> minimum amount is 200 meters and that is too much for just one person,
thus I
> am looking for people who are interested in sharing an order. The order
would
> go to the UK, and I have their samples and price list here.
>
> Please contact me at marquis@kipar.org if you are interested, many people
say
> their boning is the best.
>
>
> Nicole
>
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
> Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: marquis@kipar.org
>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Sep 12 17:42:26 2002
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] #3...Advice on medieval "look" -- pls reply privately
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 16:42:28 -0500
Status: RO

hmm, a bit elaborate, but it does have sleeves..

http://www.philamuseum.org/collections/costumes/1930-28-1.shtml

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of sheilabb@earthlink.net
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 1:41 PM
To: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] #3...Advice on medieval "look" -- pls reply privately


Please reply to sheilabb@earthlink.net

thanks for all the good ideas which are coming in.

More information I realize now I should have shared:

Hildegard specifies colors and icons for her virtues.
And singers don't want headgear.  ;-)

I'll have a chat (oops, typo'ed 'chant' -- good pun!)
with my co-director to see if a tabard sort of thing
would do.  These are worn over black tops with either
black pants or skirts, but these churches are also cold.
I felt that sleeves would be good as they'd provide
warmth too!  If only we had the right colors of fleece!  ;-)

Thanks to Robin, Linda, Nancy, Catherine, Betsy &
Carolyn for suggestions and ideas so far...
I'll simmer this at the back of my brain for a bit.





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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Sep 12 17:43:39 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Medieval strikes again...
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 22:47:17 +0100
Status: RO

Hi all,

Anywhere out there in dire need of a "Gold Viking Helmet/Hat Medieval
Warrior" before the season comes to an end should take a look at:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1765428197

where they will find:

 "Plastic Viking Helmet
with Fur-Lined Horns
BRAND NEW
Authentic Replica Helmet"

awaiting them.

Eek....

Stevie







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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 22:48:55 +0100
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] #3...Advice on medieval "look" -- pls reply privately
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 17:55:35 -0400
Status: RO

I think I've seen Faire tabards with additional rectangles over the 
arms- add ties to the bottom (wrists) and they'd be proto-sleeves.

Fleece would be great if you can find it in the right colors- it 
comes in quite a few, so you may be in luck!

-Amanda
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Sep 12 18:47:59 2002
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From: Fred Struthers <fsbks@mcn.org>
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Subject: [h-cost] RL Shep Award
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 15:48:34 -0700
Status: RO

respectfully submitted to the list:

Katherine Larson’s “WOVEN COVERLETS OF NORWAY” is the winner of the 2002 
R.L. Shep Book Award, administered and presented by the Textile Society 
of America for the best book of the year in the field of ethnic 
textiles.  

The book is publshed by the University of Washington Press.  Books 
published in the year 2001 were eligible for the 2002 award.

Katherine Larson also curated the exhibit “Woven Treasures: The 
Coverlets of Norway” which was at the Nordic Heritage Museum, Seattle in 
the  fall of 2001.

Textile Society of America which can be contacted at P.O. Box 70. 
 Earleville, MD 21929-0070.  Web site - http://textilesociety.org


--
http://www.rlshep.com

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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 18:01:26 -0500
Status: RO

What a good choice! I saw the exhibit, and couldn't resist buying the
book as well.

Kim

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Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 5:49 PM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] RL Shep Award

respectfully submitted to the list:

Katherine Larson’s “WOVEN COVERLETS OF NORWAY” is the winner of the 2002

R.L. Shep Book Award, administered and presented by the Textile Society 
of America for the best book of the year in the field of ethnic 
textiles.  

The book is publshed by the University of Washington Press.  Books 
published in the year 2001 were eligible for the 2002 award.

Katherine Larson also curated the exhibit “Woven Treasures: The 
Coverlets of Norway” which was at the Nordic Heritage Museum, Seattle in

the  fall of 2001.

Textile Society of America which can be contacted at P.O. Box 70. 
 Earleville, MD 21929-0070.  Web site - http://textilesociety.org


--
http://www.rlshep.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Going to LA
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 15:49:03 -0700
Status: RO


Well I am going to LA and I was wondering if anyone could make some
recommendations on Fabric shops to see.  We will be making a pilgrimage
to the Garment Distract, but better info is always welcome.
-- 
Stephen Bergdahl
www.2xtreme.net/madly/Home_Page.htm

Co-Chair Costume-Con 24 Bid
www.2xtreme.net/madly/Costuming101/Costume-Con24/Frames.html

Instructor for www.costumeclassroom.com
Elizabethan Era Clothing and Underpinnings 
Online Classes in Historical and Modern Sewing
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Sep 12 19:37:21 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Going to LA
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 19:38:02 EDT
Status: RO

I live in Ventura---about an hour north of LA---and make 'pilgrimages to the 
Garment District 2 or 3 times a year:) Any more often ---and I'd be in the 
poorhouse:('There are lots of wonderful places there to shop----!! The ones I 
mainly go to are downtown near the blocks between 8th  and 9th st--- and Wall 
and Maple. CashKool has a wild array of goodies and 'deals'; Silk City is my 
favorite for silk dupioni($5. yard). Near CashKool, around the corner---is 
the former Holiday Fabrics(I think that they changed their name--can anyone 
else recall what the new one is?) --which has terrific upholstry 
fabrics--silk taffetas,velveteens, brocades.There are a lot of other stores  
within those blocks  that I frequent--although I can't remember all the store 
names . There is also Berger Beads on 8th st for findings--as well as 
Bohemian Crystal , a half block away (on either  Wall or Maple)There is so 
much  variety, that you can't help but fall into something nifty :)
Happy hunting!
Albra/Kathryn
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Going to LA
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 17:26:58 -0700
Status: RO


>Well I am going to LA and I was wondering if anyone could make some
>recommendations on Fabric shops to see.  We will be making a pilgrimage
>to the Garment Distract, but better info is always welcome.

I went into Bergers once, and it was mind-blowing in its variety.  There's 
also a place called something like Hollywood Feathers, similarly amazing.


Kayta

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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 20:49:32 EDT
Status: RO


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In a message dated 9/12/2002 4:02:39 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
madly@2xtreme.net writes:


> Well I am going to LA and I was wondering if anyone could make some
> recommendations on Fabric shops to see.  We will be making a pilgrimage
> to the Garment Distract, but better info is always welcome.
> -- 
> Stephen Bergdahl
> www.2xtreme.net/madly/Home_Page.htm
> 
> 

Don't forget Michael Levin's (might be Levine's)  They have two shops, 
WONDERFUL

Katrin

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 9/12/2002 4:02:39 PM Pacific Daylight Time, madly@2xtreme.net writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Well I am going to LA and I was wondering if anyone could make some<BR>
recommendations on Fabric shops to see.&nbsp; We will be making a pilgrimage<BR>
to the Garment Distract, but better info is always welcome.<BR>
-- <BR>
Stephen Bergdahl<BR>
www.2xtreme.net/madly/Home_Page.htm<BR>
<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Don't forget Michael Levin's (might be Levine's)&nbsp; They have two shops, WONDERFUL<BR>
<BR>
Katrin</FONT></HTML>

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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Going to LA
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 18:10:00 -0700
Status: RO

I've had good luck with velvets at Joseph Designer Fabric at 432 E. 9th
Street #6-7 (right in the Wall and Maple area.

Regina Romsey

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Stephen Bergdahl
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 3:49 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Going to LA



Well I am going to LA and I was wondering if anyone could make some
recommendations on Fabric shops to see.  We will be making a pilgrimage
to the Garment Distract, but better info is always welcome.
--
Stephen Bergdahl
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Sep 12 21:04:26 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval strikes again...
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 18:01:37 -0700
Status: RO

At 10:47 PM +0100 9/12/02, Stevie Gamble wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>Anywhere out there in dire need of a "Gold Viking Helmet/Hat Medieval
>Warrior" before the season comes to an end should take a look at:
>
>http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1765428197
>
>where they will find:
>
>  "Plastic Viking Helmet
>with Fur-Lined Horns
>BRAND NEW
>Authentic Replica Helmet"
>
>awaiting them.
>
>Eek....

Definitely eek.

What has me wondering, though, is -- why fur-lined _horns_? A 
fur-lined _cap_, now that I could understand.....
-- 
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+    Davis, California
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Subject: [h-cost] Cisele Velvet (was ornamentation of velvet wrap)
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 13:05:34 +1000 (EST)
Status: RO

 --- Stevie Gamble <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
wrote:

> Well, it would be helpful if you could let us know
> your source.

Certainly. This book is completely devoted to velvet
and its weaving. It is called "Velvet: History
Techniques Fashion", edited by Fabrizio de Marinis, my
English edition by Idea Books NY, 1994. Original
edition in Italian by Idea Books, Milan, 1993.

Book is made up of essays by: 
Aurora Fiorentini Capitani (author of many
publications on fashion)
Roberta Orsi Landini (Expert on ancient textiles,
director of Arte della Seta Lisio foundation, works
for Galleria del Costume in Florence. Curator.)
Luisella Pennati (architect, works in set design of
the Teatro della Scala Milan)
Alfredo Redaelli (director of the Radaelli Velluti)
Stefania Ricci (in charge of the historical archive of
Salvatore Ferragamo and Emilio Pucci, author on
costume and fashion)

One charecteristic of cisele velvet that has so far
not been mentioned is that patterns in cisele velvet
were on a small scale. From this source on the
invention of cisele velvets:

"In the context of the velvets that were manufactured
for use in clothing, in particular the smaller size of
the design module, which allowed a more rapid shift in
the programming of the looms, prompted the weavers to
engage in experimentation with every effect
imaginable, and to work to devlop new esthetic and
technical innovations. The most popular type became
that of cisele velvets, which featured loops and
tufts. The combinations among the two types of pile,
and the relationships among those types and the
ground, gave rise to fabrics with different
appearances and qualities of light and weight. In the
traditional formula, the motif was made of tufts of
cut pile on a ground usually in satin. The uncut pile
surrounded it in a fine line that was of lower height
and which had a distinct luminous tone, so as to
create an intermediate passage which made the
decoration practically a bas-relief. But the plastic
qualities of the fabric were no longer the prime
consideration of the weaver, who was now intent on
composing planes of varied luminosity. At times the
weaver would reverse the relationships, designing the
motif in reverse so that it would appear to be carved
out of the pile; or else the weaver would give
prevalence to the areas in uncut pile, or trace two
different patterns, using two or three different
levels of the fabric. In some cases, the ground never
appears at and the motif (in uncut pile on a ground of
cut pile, or vice versa) became visible only through
the way the light struck the velvet."

Note the oft repeated words "weaver" and the phrase
"programming of the looms" - I think the word cut is
what is being misunderstood in this case, because the
cutting of velvet pile is part of the weaving process,
but may be misundertood to happen after the weaving
process. I have a few examples of period cisele
velvets here:

<http://au.geocities.com/bella_lucia_da_verona/fabric.htm>

My source for the definition of ferronnerie and its
connection with voided velvets (as distinct from
cisele) is a booklet put out by Scalamandre Silks:
"Textiles of the Italian Renaissance; their History
and Development" by the director of the Scalamandre
Museum of Textiles, John Kent Tilton. In it he says:

"Florence was also noted for its beautiful and
delicate wrought iron, the motifs of which were
inspirational for the patterns of the Florentine
voided velvets. They were known as "ferronnerie"
velvets. Their delicate ogival lines, suggestive of
the late Gothic, were rendered in leaf-shaped panels
and appear to be etched or incised in the silk pile of
the velvet. The centre motif, which they encircled,
was invariably the artichoke and in the mid 16th
century the pineapple, with fanciful small asters,
carnations or thistles sprouting from their tops. The
feeling of wrought iron ornament was also seen in
Florentine brocatelles and damasks."






=====
Lady Bella Lucia da Verona
Innilgard, Lochac

The Realm of Venus
http://au.geocities.com/bella_lucia_da_verona
Owner, Courtesan E-mail Group
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Courtesan

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Subject: [h-cost] Strung buttons
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 22:05:56 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

I recall reading an account of buttons being strung on
a cord and used to close garments like modern cuff
links. Unfortunately I can't find any reference to it
now. Has anyone else heard of this? If I remember
correctly it was used with cotehardies during the 14th
century but I'm not sure.

Thanks
Holland

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Strung buttons
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 08:12:57 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Gerack Talmoor <talmoor@yahoo.com> wrote: > I recall reading an account of
buttons being strung on
> a cord and used to close garments like modern cuff
> links. Unfortunately I can't find any reference to it
> now. Has anyone else heard of this? If I remember
> correctly it was used with cotehardies during the 14th
> century but I'm not sure.

I recall this too, but for early 17th century, English Civil War period. I have
the same problem though, for the life of me I can't remember where the writer
got the evidence from...
Anyone?

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Thread-Topic: [h-cost] Going to SF
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Going to SF
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Oh, oh, can people please let me know what's exciting in the textiley
line in San Francisco as well, as I'm going at the end of October.

Please?

Freyalyn



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<-----Original Message----->
> 
> From: Stephen Bergdahl
> Sent: 9/12/2002 11:48:03 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Going to LA
> 
> 
> Well I am going to LA and I was wondering if anyone could make some
> recommendations on Fabric shops to see. We will be making a pilgrimage
> to the Garment Distract, but better info is always welcome.
> -- 
> Stephen Bergdahl
> www.2xtreme.net/madly/Home_Page.htm
> 
> Co-Chair Costume-Con 24 Bid
> www.2xtreme.net/madly/Costuming101/Costume-Con24/Frames.html
> 
> Instructor for www.costumeclassroom.com
> Elizabethan Era Clothing and Underpinnings 
> Online Classes in Historical and Modern Sewing
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Oh, oh, can people please let me know what's exciting in the textiley line in San Francisco as well, as I'm going at the end of October.<br>
<br>
Please?<br>
<br>
Freyalyn<br>
<br>

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<BR><font face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2" style="font-size:13.5px">_______________________________________________________________<BR>Sign up for <A HREF="http://s.ivillage.com/rd/16705">FREE iVillage newsletters</A>.<BR>From health and pregnancy to shopping and relationships, iVillage<BR>has the scoop on what matters most to you.

</font><br><br><-----Original Message-----><br>
>  <br>
> From: Stephen Bergdahl<br>
> Sent: 9/12/2002 11:48:03 PM<br>
> To: h-costume@indra.com<br>
> Subject: [h-cost] Going to LA<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> Well I am going to LA and I was wondering if anyone could make some<br>
> recommendations on Fabric shops to see. We will be making a pilgrimage<br>
> to the Garment Distract, but better info is always welcome.<br>
> -- <br>
> Stephen Bergdahl<br>
> www.2xtreme.net/madly/Home_Page.htm<br>
> <br>
> Co-Chair Costume-Con 24 Bid<br>
> www.2xtreme.net/madly/Costuming101/Costume-Con24/Frames.html<br>
> <br>
> Instructor for www.costumeclassroom.com<br>
> Elizabethan Era Clothing and Underpinnings <br>
> Online Classes in Historical and Modern Sewing<br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> h-costume mailing list<br>
> h-costume@mail.indra.com<br>
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<br>
> .<br>
> <br>

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK Interested in 'Plastic Whalebone' corset boning from Wissner?
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 11:10:54 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- sylvia <sylvia@ntw.net> wrote: > 

> Since this is plastic, how does it compare to Rigilene? 

It is much sturdier I was told, rigilene is apparently floppier, but there
should be others who know better, I have never used rigilene, and I am actually
very new to corset or boned bodice making, I always had mine made.

 I have been
> thinking lately of getting some sturdier boning but I'd like something that
> doesn't require buying equipment to cut and grind as steel boning needs.

That would work well, you cut it with plastic cutters and then file/sand the
end smooth. 
Where are you located?

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: [h-cost] Average meters of boning needed for corsets?
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 11:50:50 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

Hi All,

I am completely new to this corset making thing and need you help in averaging
how many meters of boning I would need per corset or bodice. For different
periods, if possible. I am a medium size, well, you saw the pix, a UK 16, or
German 42 and a 38B bust.
I asked for the average meters for Margo's corset pattern on herlist (got that
one at home and am very eager to try it with Teddy's help!)
Does anyone know for a 17th and an 18th c. corset, and even for a 19th c. one
perhaps?

Thanks ever so much
Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Online Costume Ball
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> I can't wait to see you Teddy!  Is your costume orange?

Nope.  Bright tarty red.


Teddy
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Thread-Topic: Searching for a rigid heddle
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 08:24:35 -0700
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Hi everyone,

I'm trying to find out where I can get a rigid heddle like the one shown in the Museum of London Textiles and Clothing book on page 25.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Colleen
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Sep 13 12:34:43 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK Interested in 'Plastic Whalebone' corset boning
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 08:20:46 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

> 
>       There are several types of boning available.  I haven't used 
> them all in a garment, but I've handled them all and heard various 
> opinions.
> 
> Feather boning: white plastic, comes in a roll, usually in a white 
> cotton casing.  You can also machine stitch through the plastic. 
> Available in most fabric stores.  Someone recently said she used it 
> successfully, and that she is small-busted.  I find that, with wear, 
> it bends and ripples quickly, and ultimately does not offer much 
> support.  It may work in fully-boned stays, but I don't know anyone 
> who has tried that.
> 
> White metal boning: Comes in 1/2" and 1/4" widths (approximately, it 
> seems to be getting thinner), in cut and finished length increments 
> of 1/2", and apparently also available in a roll.  Can be cut, filed, 
> and dipped to specific lengths.  I prefer to use the pre-made 
> lengths, and find it's best to leave a bit of room in the length of 
> the channel.  The pre-finished ends will work through the fabric 
> eventually, so a leather or other sturdy binding is important on the 
> edges of the corset.  The boning offers great support.
> 
> Spiral boning: Looks like a flattened spring.  Comes in 1/2" and 1/4" 
> widths in increments of 1/2" length, also as a roll.  Easier to cut 
> to length, and end caps are available.  I find that, if cut 
> carefully, I don't need to use an end cap.  Spiral boning has some 
> sideways flex, which is good for 19thC corsets.
> 
> Rigiline: This is a series of about 4 to 8 nylon strands (1/4" and 
> 1/2" widths) woven into a polyester tape.  It's very easy to cut. 
> The downside is that the nylon can creep beyond the tape and poke 
> through the outer fabric.  The cure - melt the ends with a flame. 
> The very detail-oriented costumer can also split the width of 
> rigiline and melt the long edge for a 1/8" width.  You can machine 
> sew through it.  Rigiline is more for light use than heavy corsetry, 
> but when narrowed to 1/8" it's great as the horizontal bones across 
> the bust of 18thC stays.
> 
> Wissner plastic whalebone:  I have some of this, but have not 
> actually used it yet.  It comes in two thicknesses as well as 
> different widths.  It would definitely be easier to cut than metal 
> boning!  The rigidity is good, and supposedly was designed to most 
> resemble whalebone.
> 
> Oak basket splints:  Another thing I have not tried, but some people 
> like the half-round splints for 18thC stays.  Cheaper than the other 
> options, but wood will not have as much flex as metal and can break.
> 
> Horsehair braid:  You know, that plastic (nylon?) tape, woven 
> diagonally (like a shoelace), generally for adding flare to skirt 
> hems.  You can make it narrower by stretching, and then layer and 
> machine stitch them together for more rigidity.  It's not good for 
> corset boning, but works well to stiffen bodice seams.  The ends have 
> to be very well-contained or the little strands will poke through.
> 
> Hooping:  This is two metal pieces in a buckram or plastic casing. 
> It's meant for skirt supports, not for corset boning.
> 
> Other cheaper materials have been suggested - bamboo is probably not 
> a good idea, because if it breaks the long, sharp pieces can be 
> hazardous.  I tried metal strapping tape many years ago, and it's a 
> lot of work but not very flexible.  Anyone try plastic strapping 
> tape?  Fortunately, there are a lot of options available of boning 
> that is made for the purpose.
> 
> Did I leave anything out?
> 

Hemp!

There are a number of people using Hemp cord for renaissance corsets 
that have dress diaries online -- and I believe they are on hcostume too.

.heather.


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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 08:16:04 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

this is most of what you need ---
http://www.gbacg.org/bay_area.htm


.heather.



> 
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> Oh, oh, can people please let me know what's exciting in the textiley
> line in San Francisco as well, as I'm going at the end of October.
> 
> Please?
> 
> Freyalyn
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________________________
> Sign up for FREE iVillage newsletters <http://s.ivillage.com/rd/16705> .
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> has the scoop on what matters most to you. 
> 
> <-----Original Message----->
> > 
> > From: Stephen Bergdahl
> > Sent: 9/12/2002 11:48:03 PM
> > To: h-costume@indra.com
> > Subject: [h-cost] Going to LA
> > 
> > 
> > Well I am going to LA and I was wondering if anyone could make some
> > recommendations on Fabric shops to see. We will be making a pilgrimage
> > to the Garment Distract, but better info is always welcome.
> > -- 
> > Stephen Bergdahl
> > www.2xtreme.net/madly/Home_Page.htm
> > 
> > Co-Chair Costume-Con 24 Bid
> > www.2xtreme.net/madly/Costuming101/Costume-Con24/Frames.html
> > 
> > Instructor for www.costumeclassroom.com
> > Elizabethan Era Clothing and Underpinnings 
> > Online Classes in Historical and Modern Sewing
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > .
> > 
> 
> 
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> <HTML>
> <BODY>
> Oh, oh, can people please let me know what's exciting in the textiley line in San Francisco as well, as I'm going at the end of October.<br>
> <br>
> Please?<br>
> <br>
> Freyalyn<br>
> <br>
> 
> </BODY></HTML>
> <BR><font face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2" style="font-size:13.5px">_______________________________________________________________<BR>Sign up for <A HREF="http://s.ivillage.com/rd/16705">FREE iVillage newsletters</A>.<BR>From health and pregnancy to shopping and relationships, iVillage<BR>has the scoop on what matters most to you.
> 
> </font><br><br><-----Original Message-----><br>
> >  <br>
> > From: Stephen Bergdahl<br>
> > Sent: 9/12/2002 11:48:03 PM<br>
> > To: h-costume@indra.com<br>
> > Subject: [h-cost] Going to LA<br>
> > <br>
> > <br>
> > Well I am going to LA and I was wondering if anyone could make some<br>
> > recommendations on Fabric shops to see. We will be making a pilgrimage<br>
> > to the Garment Distract, but better info is always welcome.<br>
> > -- <br>
> > Stephen Bergdahl<br>
> > www.2xtreme.net/madly/Home_Page.htm<br>
> > <br>
> > Co-Chair Costume-Con 24 Bid<br>
> > www.2xtreme.net/madly/Costuming101/Costume-Con24/Frames.html<br>
> > <br>
> > Instructor for www.costumeclassroom.com<br>
> > Elizabethan Era Clothing and Underpinnings <br>
> > Online Classes in Historical and Modern Sewing<br>
> > _______________________________________________<br>
> > h-costume mailing list<br>
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com<br>
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<br>
> > .<br>
> > <br>
> 
> ------=_NextPart_000_133A_01C25AC5.EEEE5890--
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK Interested in 'Plastic Whalebone' corset boning
	from Wissner?
From: sylvia <sylvia@ntw.net>
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 09:52:53 -0600
Status: RO

on 9/13/02 4:10 AM, N Kipar at nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com wrote:

> 
> That would work well, you cut it with plastic cutters and then file/sand the
> end smooth. 
> Where are you located?

Colorado.
> 
>Sylvia

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Average meters of boning needed for corsets?
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 15:28:51 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

Dear Bjarne,

> I still have your bodice pattern. This evening i shall pick it up and
> meassure how many bones i used in this and how long they were.

Oh thank you so much, but you don't need to worry, because I won't attempt such
a bodice, never could I make something the way you made it! It's too
complicated for me, I just wanted to make an Elizabethan corset and use the
boning for a few other bits.

Thank you ever so much for the offer.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Average meters of boning needed for corsets?
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 15:42:32 +0100
Status: RO

>I just wanted to make an Elizabethan corset and use the
boning for a few other bits

Have you looked at Alter years corset kits ? I don't know how they stand up,
but they are reasonably priced

Mel

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Sep 13 12:47:31 2002
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Average meters of boning needed for corsets?
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 16:19:59 +0200
Status: RO

Dear Nicole.
I still have your bodice pattern. This evening i shall pick it up and
meassure how many bones i used in this and how long they were.
Your bodice and the pink baroque corset with the attached sleaves could be
comparable. But the pink corset uses much narrower bones than i used in your
bodice, so if you want to make the boning fully boned, you have to use more
off cause, but you ca'nt use as many as in the pink corset because Wissners
bones are much broader.

Bjarne


----- Original Message -----
From: "N Kipar" <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2002 12:50 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Average meters of boning needed for corsets?


> Hi All,
>
> I am completely new to this corset making thing and need you help in
averaging
> how many meters of boning I would need per corset or bodice. For different
> periods, if possible. I am a medium size, well, you saw the pix, a UK 16,
or
> German 42 and a 38B bust.
> I asked for the average meters for Margo's corset pattern on herlist (got
that
> one at home and am very eager to try it with Teddy's help!)
> Does anyone know for a 17th and an 18th c. corset, and even for a 19th c.
one
> perhaps?
>
> Thanks ever so much
> Nicole
>
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
> Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: marquis@kipar.org
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Everything you'll ever need on one web page
> from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval strikes again...
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 09:13:47 -0500
Status: RO

Hey at least they had a disclaimer at the bottom that it did not provide real protection 
in battle!     :)
-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK Interested in 'Plastic Whalebone' corset boning
 from Wissner?
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 09:12:44 -0400
Status: RO

      There are several types of boning available.  I haven't used 
them all in a garment, but I've handled them all and heard various 
opinions.

Feather boning: white plastic, comes in a roll, usually in a white 
cotton casing.  You can also machine stitch through the plastic. 
Available in most fabric stores.  Someone recently said she used it 
successfully, and that she is small-busted.  I find that, with wear, 
it bends and ripples quickly, and ultimately does not offer much 
support.  It may work in fully-boned stays, but I don't know anyone 
who has tried that.

White metal boning: Comes in 1/2" and 1/4" widths (approximately, it 
seems to be getting thinner), in cut and finished length increments 
of 1/2", and apparently also available in a roll.  Can be cut, filed, 
and dipped to specific lengths.  I prefer to use the pre-made 
lengths, and find it's best to leave a bit of room in the length of 
the channel.  The pre-finished ends will work through the fabric 
eventually, so a leather or other sturdy binding is important on the 
edges of the corset.  The boning offers great support.

Spiral boning: Looks like a flattened spring.  Comes in 1/2" and 1/4" 
widths in increments of 1/2" length, also as a roll.  Easier to cut 
to length, and end caps are available.  I find that, if cut 
carefully, I don't need to use an end cap.  Spiral boning has some 
sideways flex, which is good for 19thC corsets.

Rigiline: This is a series of about 4 to 8 nylon strands (1/4" and 
1/2" widths) woven into a polyester tape.  It's very easy to cut. 
The downside is that the nylon can creep beyond the tape and poke 
through the outer fabric.  The cure - melt the ends with a flame. 
The very detail-oriented costumer can also split the width of 
rigiline and melt the long edge for a 1/8" width.  You can machine 
sew through it.  Rigiline is more for light use than heavy corsetry, 
but when narrowed to 1/8" it's great as the horizontal bones across 
the bust of 18thC stays.

Wissner plastic whalebone:  I have some of this, but have not 
actually used it yet.  It comes in two thicknesses as well as 
different widths.  It would definitely be easier to cut than metal 
boning!  The rigidity is good, and supposedly was designed to most 
resemble whalebone.

Oak basket splints:  Another thing I have not tried, but some people 
like the half-round splints for 18thC stays.  Cheaper than the other 
options, but wood will not have as much flex as metal and can break.

Horsehair braid:  You know, that plastic (nylon?) tape, woven 
diagonally (like a shoelace), generally for adding flare to skirt 
hems.  You can make it narrower by stretching, and then layer and 
machine stitch them together for more rigidity.  It's not good for 
corset boning, but works well to stiffen bodice seams.  The ends have 
to be very well-contained or the little strands will poke through.

Hooping:  This is two metal pieces in a buckram or plastic casing. 
It's meant for skirt supports, not for corset boning.

Other cheaper materials have been suggested - bamboo is probably not 
a good idea, because if it breaks the long, sharp pieces can be 
hazardous.  I tried metal strapping tape many years ago, and it's a 
lot of work but not very flexible.  Anyone try plastic strapping 
tape?  Fortunately, there are a lot of options available of boning 
that is made for the purpose.

Did I leave anything out?

      -Carol
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Sep 13 12:49:39 2002
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From: "Sally Ann Chandler" <medcc@medcc.free-online.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20020912144803.2559.qmail@web13308.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK Interested in 'Plastic Whalebone' corset boning from Wissner?
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 13:39:48 +0100
Status: RO

Nicole - what sort were you thinking of getting?  I bought 200 metres a
while ago - it may take me quite some time to get through it all so I may
have some you can have without ordering more from Wissner for the time
being.

Best wishes,

Sally Ann
medcc@medcc.free-online.co.uk
----- Original Message -----
From: N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
To: H-Costume <h-costume@indra.com>; Angelcynn List
<angelcynn@yahoogroups.com>; Lumieres List <lumieres@egroups.com>; Lagedor
ListSmartgroups <lagedor@smartgroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 3:48 PM
Subject: [h-cost] UK Interested in 'Plastic Whalebone' corset boning from
Wissner?


> Dear All,
>
> I just wondered if someone on the lists here is interested in sharing an
order
> from Wissner in Germany for their superb plastic whalebone corest boning.
The
> minimum amount is 200 meters and that is too much for just one person,
thus I
> am looking for people who are interested in sharing an order. The order
would
> go to the UK, and I have their samples and price list here.
>
> Please contact me at marquis@kipar.org if you are interested, many people
say
> their boning is the best.
>
>
> Nicole
>
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
> Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: marquis@kipar.org
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Everything you'll ever need on one web page
> from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
> http://uk.my.yahoo.com
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>

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References: <002301c25aa5$f7a53be0$874e063e@dan> <p05100306b9a6e91fd0e6@[63.53.186.244]>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval strikes again...
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 07:57:58 -0400
Status: RO

Having had the chore of designing garb for 'Hagar' and friends at Halloween
once or twice, the fur rings around the horns is a nice touch to reinforce
or mask the glue...wire or whatever was necessary to attach the horns.
Especially when you have used Real horns!  Kathleen, who has a assistant who
really likes chores like this.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Laning" <claning@igc.org>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 9:01 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval strikes again...


> At 10:47 PM +0100 9/12/02, Stevie Gamble wrote:
> >Hi all,
> >
> >Anywhere out there in dire need of a "Gold Viking Helmet/Hat Medieval
> >Warrior" before the season comes to an end should take a look at:
> >
> >http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1765428197
> >
> >where they will find:
> >
> >  "Plastic Viking Helmet
> >with Fur-Lined Horns
> >BRAND NEW
> >Authentic Replica Helmet"
> >
> >awaiting them.
> >
> >Eek....
>
> Definitely eek.
>
> What has me wondering, though, is -- why fur-lined _horns_? A
> fur-lined _cap_, now that I could understand.....
> --
> _________________________________________________________
> O    Chris Laning
> |     <claning@igc.org>
> +    Davis, California
> _________________________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Average meters of boning needed for corsets?
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 12:33:56 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com> wrote: > >

> I use 6m spiral boning on average per 1870s corset

Thank you Mel! *notes it down*

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Average meters of boning needed for corsets?
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 12:09:26 +0100
Status: RO

>I am completely new to this corset making thing and need you help in
averaging
how many meters of boning I would need per corset or bodice. For different
periods, if possible. I am a medium size, well, you saw the pix, a UK 16, or
German 42 and a 38B bust.
I asked for the average meters for Margo's corset pattern on herlist (got
that
one at home and am very eager to try it with Teddy's help!)
Does anyone know for a 17th and an 18th c. corset, and even for a 19th c.
one
perhaps?

I use 6m spiral boning on average per 1870s corset

Mel

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Subject: [h-cost] CostumeCon 21-Shameless Plug
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 12:28:36 -0500
Status: RO


Hello Everyone,

It's been awhile since I've shamelessly plugged CostumeCon 21 here in the
Beautiful Windy City- so I am! It's Easter weekend of next year (2003)
and it will be a veritable orgy of costuming- panels, discussions,
classes, dances, workshops, masquerades. All activities designed with YOU
the costumer in mind. 

To find out all about it, go to:

http://www.jennifarse.com/cc2003/

I am your humble Programming Chair and I'd like to petition the list for
ideas of what you'd like to see as programming at the convention. Also,
I've chatted with several of Youse Guys about participating in various
aspects (Susan Eanes!) and after my e-mail crashed last year, I've been
trying to reconstruct my contact list. If I've contacted you in the past,
and you haven't heard from me personally in awhile, please contact me
soon so I can get you slated into the programming track. 

I know that a number of h-costumers are planning on attending- I'll use
them shamelessly to get everyone else interested in coming too- the list
includes:

The Fabulous Teddy
The Equally Fabulous, But Not Nearly As Orange, Tom
Melanie Wilson
Drea Leed 
Stephen Bergdahl
Angela Kovatch

Here's hoping for lots of great ideas and to see many of you there!


Karen Bergquist
Programming Chair CC21

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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 13:30:14 -0500
Status: RO

Hi all,
I hope someone will recognize this brand mark and be able to tell me
something about some fabric I bought at a second hand shop.

I haven't done any testing on it yet, but it appears to be a fine
suit-weight wool, 56 inches wide. It's firmly woven twill with a colored
band of red and gold woven into the selvages that says EXTRA STRONG at
intervals. Printed on the reverse (if the words are printed on the "right"
side) is an emblem. I don't know all the proper heraldry descriptions--but
I'll try to describe it. A wreath of leaves, each sheaf a different kind,
both with red dots (berries?); within this is a shield divided into
quarters. The upper left has a K, the upper right has a crown with 3 dots
below it, the lower right has a 2, the lower left I can't make out--it might
be a snake?  Below all this is a banner that says Registered Trade Mark. The
whole thing is printed in white and red.

Does this tell anyone anything?
Thanks
Denise
landofoz@netins.net


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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Going to SF
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 14:08:18 -0700
Status: RO

Britex is pricey, but it's the best we have up here.  General Bead is good, 
for beads, antique sequins, etc.  The Jessica McClintock outlet has last 
seasons' dress appliques, usually at like 5/$1.  And there are many 
discount places.  Would you like a local tour-guide (hint, hint)?

>Oh, oh, can people please let me know what's exciting in the textiley line 
>in San Francisco as well, as I'm going at the end of October.
>
>Please?
>
>Freyalyn
>
>
>_______________________________________________________________
>Sign up for <http://s.ivillage.com/rd/16705>FREE iVillage newsletters.
> From health and pregnancy to shopping and relationships, iVillage
>has the scoop on what matters most to you.
>
><-----Original Message----->
> >
> > From: Stephen Bergdahl
> > Sent: 9/12/2002 11:48:03 PM
> > To: h-costume@indra.com
> > Subject: [h-cost] Going to LA
> >
> >
> > Well I am going to LA and I was wondering if anyone could make some
> > recommendations on Fabric shops to see. We will be making a pilgrimage
> > to the Garment Distract, but better info is always welcome.
> > --
> > Stephen Bergdahl
> > www.2xtreme.net/madly/Home_Page.htm
> >
> > Co-Chair Costume-Con 24 Bid
> > www.2xtreme.net/madly/Costuming101/Costume-Con24/Frames.html
> >
> > Instructor for www.costumeclassroom.com
> > Elizabethan Era Clothing and Underpinnings
> > Online Classes in Historical and Modern Sewing
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > .
> >


Kayta

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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 15:07:03 -0700
Status: RO

The simplest thing to do is to to the intersection of 9th and Maple in 
downtown Los Angeles, park as close as you can, then get out and start 
walking in any of 4 directions. Everything you could possibly want is 
within about 1 block in every direction from that intersection.

South of 9th on Maple you have two Michael Levine stores - one is fashion 
fabrics and the other is home dec fabrics (915-917 S Maple).

To the east of Maple, on 9th street, is shop after shop of fabric, all of 
similar quality. My favorite is (as someone else mentioned) as store called 
Kashkool. They have a surprisingly large selection, some fascinating trims 
and lots of pleasant, helpful staff.

North of 9th on Maple are several trim stores with amazing prices. For 
example, a trim that I saw at JoAnn's for $20 a yard was about $2 a yard. 
Bohemian Crystal is just a bit further up the street (need a foot-long 
teardrop Austrian crystal? theyv'e got it!)

Best thing you can do is make up a list, or at least have a series of 
priorities in your head, and then put on your sturdiest walking shoes and 
start exploring.

Have fun!

Julie


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Sep 13 18:16:24 2002
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 15:16:51 -0700
Status: RO

Britex is WAY WAY pricey.  What about Discount Fabrics in SF? It's a
wonderful outlet at

Discount Fabrics
501 3rd Street, San Francisco, CA 94107
(415) 495-4201

Unless of course, you are indepently wealthy and money is no issue ;)

angela


----- Original Message -----
From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2002 2:08 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Going to SF


> Britex is pricey, but it's the best we have up here.  General Bead is
good,
> for beads, antique sequins, etc.  The Jessica McClintock outlet has last
> seasons' dress appliques, usually at like 5/$1.  And there are many
> discount places.  Would you like a local tour-guide (hint, hint)?
>
> >Oh, oh, can people please let me know what's exciting in the textiley
line
> >in San Francisco as well, as I'm going at the end of October.
> >
> >Please?
> >
> >Freyalyn
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________________________
> >Sign up for <http://s.ivillage.com/rd/16705>FREE iVillage newsletters.
> > From health and pregnancy to shopping and relationships, iVillage
> >has the scoop on what matters most to you.
> >
> ><-----Original Message----->
> > >
> > > From: Stephen Bergdahl
> > > Sent: 9/12/2002 11:48:03 PM
> > > To: h-costume@indra.com
> > > Subject: [h-cost] Going to LA
> > >
> > >
> > > Well I am going to LA and I was wondering if anyone could make some
> > > recommendations on Fabric shops to see. We will be making a pilgrimage
> > > to the Garment Distract, but better info is always welcome.
> > > --
> > > Stephen Bergdahl
> > > www.2xtreme.net/madly/Home_Page.htm
> > >
> > > Co-Chair Costume-Con 24 Bid
> > > www.2xtreme.net/madly/Costuming101/Costume-Con24/Frames.html
> > >
> > > Instructor for www.costumeclassroom.com
> > > Elizabethan Era Clothing and Underpinnings
> > > Online Classes in Historical and Modern Sewing
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > > .
> > >
>
>
> Kayta
>
>     //// \\\
>    ////-@@\\\
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>    (((  <> ))))
>       )   ((((((
> /----\   /---\))
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Sep 13 18:24:19 2002
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From: Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Going to LA
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 18:14:33 -0400
Status: RO

At 03:07 PM 9/13/02 -0700, you wrote:
>The simplest thing to do is to to the intersection of 9th and Maple in 
>downtown Los Angeles, park as close as you can, then get out and start 
>walking in any of 4 directions. Everything you could possibly want is 
>within about 1 block in every direction from that intersection.
>
>South of 9th on Maple you have two Michael Levine stores - one is fashion 
>fabrics and the other is home dec fabrics (915-917 S Maple).
>
>To the east of Maple, on 9th street, is shop after shop of fabric, all of 
>similar quality. My favorite is (as someone else mentioned) as store called 
>Kashkool. They have a surprisingly large selection, some fascinating trims 
>and lots of pleasant, helpful staff.
>
>North of 9th on Maple are several trim stores with amazing prices. For 
>example, a trim that I saw at JoAnn's for $20 a yard was about $2 a yard. 
>Bohemian Crystal is just a bit further up the street (need a foot-long 
>teardrop Austrian crystal? theyv'e got it!)
>
>Best thing you can do is make up a list, or at least have a series of 
>priorities in your head, and then put on your sturdiest walking shoes and 
>start exploring.
>
>Have fun!
>
>Julie


     If you have a business, or wholesalerss, or reseller's license or
whatever they call it where you are from, then bring it with you.  It will
get you discounts in some places, and entrance into others.  One of the
best, if you like wools (I do) is B. Black and Sons.

I remain, far from the district,
Ranald
Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 16:13:53 -0700
Status: RO

If you're going this weekend, you may find that some of the best stores,
like Berger's, are closed, since they're Orthodox Jewish, and the Jewish
holidays are happening now.

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Sep 13 19:43:51 2002
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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Advice on medieval "look" -- pls reply privately
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 11:46:04 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

Sounds like a gored gown pattern of a soft knit jersey
would do the trick.  The jersey stretches enough to accomodate a couple of
sizes, doesn't wrinkle very easily, and the pattern is pretty basic--I've
seen several of patterns like this from Simplicity & Butterick.

If you wanted something even simpler, a cyclas or surcoat would also work.

Drea


On Thu, 12 Sep 2002 sheilabb@earthlink.net wrote:

> Please reply to sheilabb@earthlink.net
>
>
>
> Dear Friends,
>
> I'm thrilled that our Italian musical tour this year will include a
> performance of Hildegard von Bingen's "Ordo Virtutem",
> the battle between the Devil and the Heavenly Virtues for
> Anima (Soul).  We have 17 women in the Virtue chorus,
> and as we don't always have the same personnel from year
> to year, we can't afford (nor can they!) to make real period
> costumes.
>
> Our performance "outfits" are basic black -- black sweaters,
> shirts, skirts, pants, whatever, just no jeans -- and I'm trying
> to come up with something that can go over the "basic black"
> that would *suggest* something medieval-ish (Hildegard is
> late 11th c German).  The issues here are not authenticity of
> fabric or accuracy (gasp) of design.  I just need something
> reasonably easy and not very fitted to make for 17 women
> (in a variety of figures!) that will be easy to get in and out of,
> easy to pack in a suitcase and won't get too wrinkled so it
> will still look good for the 12 days we're there in February...
>
> I'm overwhelmed with things in other parts of my life and
> will not see a reply here, so please offer your advice and
> share your wisdom by replying to me at  sheilabb@earthlink.net
>
> Hoping for some great ideas and tips!
>
> Sheila B
>
> Sheila Beardslee Bosworth      sheilabb@earthlink.net
>
> http://www.earlymusicboston.com
> for New England Early Music CALENDAR & BRS-West
>
> 29 Main Street, Acton MA 01720-3505
> VOX  978/263.9926      FAX  978/263.2366
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need wool washing help
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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 14:23:31 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

I've heard that massaging hair conditioner into wool garments helps them
to stretch somewhat.  Of course, this would involve stretching by hand.
Perhaps you could get some of those strips with the nails in them that
carpet layers use and stretch the wool across that.

Good luck!

Drea


On Wed, 11 Sep 2002, Robin Netherton wrote:

>
> I've been going through my fabric stash (look for some items for sale
> soon!) and I am now facing a sizable box of my wool "experiments." These
> were fabrics I washed, fulled, and/or dyed that didn't come out as well as
> I'd like. Now, if the wool isn't going to wash up, I'm glad to find that
> out *before* I make it into a garment. But that does leave me with some
> sad remains.
>
> So, I'm wondering if any of the wool experts on this list have any
> suggestions on how I might salvage these pieces. The chief problem I have
> is when the wool seems to be shrinking or pulling unevenly. I'm used to
> seeing the body of the fabric shrink more than the selvedges (which end up
> rippling a bit), but the problem comes when the effect seems to happen all
> over, unevenly. I'm not getting a lot of pilling, and the color is fine.
> It's just the weave is rippling or pulling irregularly all over. I also
> sometimes get a rough surface (on worsteds) or a crepey one (on woolens),
> even when the original was very smooth. Ironing doesn't help.
>
> Is there a trick I can use to improve this already-ruined pieces -- a
> particular washing agent, or a way of washing or drying that would even
> out the weave/shrinkage/surface?
>
> These are usually large pieces -- many yards -- so I can't, say, stretch
> them out by hand.
>
> Thanks in advance for any help.
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] 1830s dress on Ebay-DEAL
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 15:53:01 -0700
Status: RO

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0197_01C25B3D.A379B3F0
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3D2100488576&rd=3D1

This is the url for a dress from about 1835-1845 which is going for a =
pretty good price.  I was outbid, but it's not really my era.  I prefer =
20s - 30s vintage, but when I realized the dealer had no idea what he =
had I felt bad so I let him know.  Anyway, it's still a steal and looks =
to be in good shape.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbabe Rose Costumes
Theatrical Costume Design
"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:=20
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,=20
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:=20
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
W. Shakespeare
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2719.2200" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;item=3D21004885=
76&amp;rd=3D1">http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;item=3D2=
100488576&amp;rd=3D1</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>This is the url for a dress from about =
1835-1845=20
which is going for a pretty good price.&nbsp; I was outbid, but it's not =
really=20
my era.&nbsp; I prefer 20s - 30s vintage, but when I realized the dealer =
had no=20
idea what he had I felt bad so I let him know.&nbsp; Anyway, it's still =
a steal=20
and looks to be in good shape.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>angela</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>+++++<BR>Angela F. Lazear<BR>Cabbabe =
Rose=20
Costumes<BR>Theatrical Costume Design<BR>"Love all, trust a few, do =
wrong to=20
none: <BR>be able for thine enemy rather in power than use, <BR>and keep =
thy=20
friend under thy own life's key: <BR>be checked for silence, but never =
taxed for=20
speech..."<BR>W. Shakespeare<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com">http://www.cabbagerosecostume=
s.com</A></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0197_01C25B3D.A379B3F0--


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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 09:31:49 -0400 (EDT)
Status: RO

To all you blackwork junkies out there: I've just finished webifying a
friend's blackwork patterns.  Claudette Ziemann has rendered over 200
patterns from period sources, for bands and fillwork, from Italian,
English & German sources.  And I thought /I/ was busy... :)

They're online at
http://costume.dm.net/blackwork

Enjoy!

Drea


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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 20:06:22 -0400
Status: RO



Karen:

It sounds fabulous! But why did you pick Easter weekend? I can't be the only
one whose family expects her to be with the.! In my family, missing Easter
is a crime. And I could actually get to Chicago, too!

Gail Finke :-(


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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 20:40:58 -0600
Status: RO

I made it home last night about midnight (after 18-odd hours in
airplanes), and now I'm experiencing the Joys of JetLag (tm).  I missed
all of you!  It was just wonderful getting to meet Teddy (who was
*exactly* the same in person as he is in emails--irreverent, funny,
brightly colored <g>) and Tom, although, darnit guys, Jane and I forgot
to get a picture of you....
(heh, heh....Teddy brought the Infamous Photo Album....wow!)
Nicole, I'm really sorry I didn't get to Canterbury to even say hello,
although I kinda waved in your direction <g>. I sure thought of you,
though, every time I saw some gorgeous Restoration-era garment or
painting (you'd *LOVE* the stuff in the Costume Museum in Bath!!!) 
Penny, you would have loved it, too...I thought of you especially, as
they were showing, in honor of Her Majesty's 50th Anniversary on the
throne, a special display of some of her gowns.  And I got to drool all
over this amazing display of Elizabethan/Stuart shirts and gloves and
women's informal jackets, a couple of which I'd never seen before.  They
also had an 18th c. pair of stays on display, and a couple of
stomachers, and some lovely 18th c. gowns, and lace, and, and......
*sigh*....
I'm already making plans to go back! <g>
Talk to you all again, when I'm more caught up on my sleep (I'm still
running on Dublin time, which is 7 hours ahead of Montana time...groan!)
--Sue, who now has the Most Amazing Collection of Costume-Related books!
(woo-hoo!!!)
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 20:27:26 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Me again,  
   Thanks for all the list and private mail about
stripping the linen.  I don't think I'll mess with the
stripping anymore as I found several short remnant
lenghts of linen for my shift.  Any ideas on which
hemstitching or drawn thread work to use to piece the
lengths together to make them long enough for the
shift.
    Where, pray tell, can I get the Museum of London
Textile and Clothing book here in the US.  Ditto some
of the other interesting looking books from the MoL? 
Amazon lists them but wishes me to order them through
their UK site.  I'd rather get them here in the states
in the hopes that they won't be too battered in the
shipping if someone gets them by the box, not the
single book padded envelope.  Thanks.
                                  Cassandra

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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 23:33:47 EDT
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Try http://medievalbookstore.com/.  Janet is an SCA Merchant and I know she 
carries the book.  If she does not have it on her website (I know she has it 
in stock), write her a note.
Elisabeth

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Try http://medievalbookstore.com/. &nbsp;Janet is an SCA Merchant and I know she carries the book. &nbsp;If she does not have it on her website (I know she has it in stock), write her a note.
<BR>Elisabeth</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Museum of London Textile and Clothing book?
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 23:53:13 -0400
Status: RO

One of the others that carries the book is www.poisonpenpress.com

Lyn Greaves
Lady Rosamund d'Alwareton
COM, COTerpsichore, COSalamander



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cascio Michael" <rosenau5@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2002 11:27 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Museum of London Textile and Clothing book?


> Me again,  
>    Thanks for all the list and private mail about
> stripping the linen.  I don't think I'll mess with the
> stripping anymore as I found several short remnant
> lenghts of linen for my shift.  Any ideas on which
> hemstitching or drawn thread work to use to piece the
> lengths together to make them long enough for the
> shift.
>     Where, pray tell, can I get the Museum of London
> Textile and Clothing book here in the US.  Ditto some
> of the other interesting looking books from the MoL? 
> Amazon lists them but wishes me to order them through
> their UK site.  I'd rather get them here in the states
> in the hopes that they won't be too battered in the
> shipping if someone gets them by the box, not the
> single book padded envelope.  Thanks.
>                                   Cassandra
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! News - Today's headlines
> http://news.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Sep 14 01:09:41 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: CostumeCon21
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Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 00:07:25 -0500
Status: RO

I'm not the one who picked it! CostumeCon is traditionally held in the
Spring and hotels are easy to book over Easter weekend as most folks
aren't getting married or having business stuff then......for obvious
reasons. It's the same reason MiniCon was held that weekend for many,
many years- guaranteed hotel space.

For our Jewish costuming friends, the Con is being held in Skokie a
suburb of Chciago, and it's very, very Jewish! There will be absolutely
no problem in getting Passover appropriate foods. Pass the matzos!

Karen 

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Sep 14 02:34:48 2002
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Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 07:38:40 +0100
Status: RO

>Textile and Clothing book here in the US.  Ditto some
of the other interesting looking books from the MoL?
Amazon lists them but wishes me to order them through
their UK site.

I buy tons of boks from the US & all arrive fine :) I'm sure vice cersa is
no problem

Mel
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Subject: [h-cost] Blackwork patterns: thank you!
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Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 10:47:08 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

These patterns are fantastic! Thank you so much Bronwen, for all the work.
Though I don't do blackwork (wasn't done anymore in my period *pout*) I love
drooling over the patterns.

Nicole - happy

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s dress on Ebay-DEAL
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Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 04:35:33 -0700
Status: RO

Angela Lazear writes, in a message sent 03:53 PM 9/13/02 -0700:
><http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2100488576&rd=1>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2100488576&rd=1
>
>This is the url for a dress from about 1835-1845 which is going for a 
>pretty good price.  I was outbid, but it's not really my era.  I prefer 
>20s - 30s vintage, but when I realized the dealer had no idea what he had 
>I felt bad so I let him know.  Anyway, it's still a steal and looks to be 
>in good shape.

More like 1850s-60s, and I suspect that lace on the sleeves was added later.


Kayta

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ornamentation of velvet wrap
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Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 21:48:31 -0400
Status: RO


Now that I've found out what they mean by "cut" velvet, I realize is
probably was, but I can't find velvet in that pattern, and was trying to
figure out how to get the look.  Maybe I'll try appliqueing strips of velvet
onto a shorter pile and see if I can get it to work.
Moira

>
> > Well, it was worth a try.  There is a child's gown in Patterns of
> > Fashion that has the velvet cut in a kind of lattice pattern, and that
> > was what I was hoping to copy.  I may just have to experiment when I
> > get the time. ;-) Moira
>
> Wasn't the fabric *made* liek that, by the weavers, rather than
> having that done to it afterwards?
>
>
>
> Teddy
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ornamentation of velvet wrap
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Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 21:55:01 -0400
Status: RO


Sounds good- just realize that my life is a bit insane right now, and I may
not be able to try for a while. ;-{
Moira

> If you do, please pass along instructions. Even trial and error that you
are
> not entirely happy with could be useful to the list.  I am DYING to try
some
> new techniques on some velvets I bought for Italian Renn pieces.
>
> angela
> +++++
> Angela F. Lazear
> Cabbage Rose Costumes
> http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
>
> Theatrical Costume Design
> "O! Swear not by the moon, the inconstant moon,
> That monthly changes in her circled orb,
> Lest that thy love prove likewise variable."
> Romeo & Juliet, II, ii - W. Shakespeare
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Heather Cutler" <moirabeaneoin@prodigy.net>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 8:23 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] ornamentation of velvet wrap
>
>
> > It is very beautiful.  Maybe I'll try the burnout method on a small
piece
> > and see if I can get it right. ;-)
> > Moira
> >
> >
> > >
> > > There were a number of ways of achieving this look back in the
> > > Renaissance period, but unfortunately those skills have long been
> > > lost. I would think that "burn-out" using chemicals and a silk backed
> > > velvet is the closest you are going to get nowadays. It is beautiful,
> > > isn't it!
> > >
> > > best wishes
> > > Stevie
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
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> >
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> >
>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Sep 14 10:51:34 2002
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Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 10:51:54 EDT
Status: RO

Greetings All!

A friend of mine is considering bidding on something on e-bay, I was 
wondering if anyone could give me an opinion.  What do you think?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1767202745

Kit
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From: "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] UK Interested in 'Plastic Whalebone' corset boning from Wissner?
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Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 12:56:16 -0400
Status: RO

Does anyone in the US have some of the Wissner plastic whalebone to spare?
I've used only the metal stuff so far, but have been intrigued by this
stuff, but certainly don't need 200 meters of it just to try it out- just
enough for a corset or two.  Maybe about 10 meters or so?
-Megan


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From: Lalah T Tillinghast <catpurson@juno.com>
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Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 13:05:21 -0400
Status: RO

        I sure as heck wouldn't make it for 125.00.  But of course that
is only the opening bid and it will surely go higher.  I would recommend
that your friend wait until the last day to bid though.  Anyhow, it looks
and sounds good to me.  If it isn't perfectly accurate in every detail
and fabric, it is better than any of the stuff in catalogs.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <4.3.1.2.20020914043450.00c89920@mail.frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s dress on Ebay-DEAL
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Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 10:26:39 -0700
Status: RO

"More like 1850s-60s, and I suspect that lace on the sleeves was added
later."

Ok, that's interesting. Why do you think so?  I didn't go back and re-read
my data, and this isn't my era per se.  Is it the sleeve shave? I know the
dropped armsceye was 1830s, and (I can't see it on anyone, so don't know how
tight the bodice is) the trim lines seemed earlier.  What specifically
places it later that jumps out at you?

thanks

angela
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 14, 2002 4:35 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s dress on Ebay-DEAL


> Angela Lazear writes, in a message sent 03:53 PM 9/13/02 -0700:
>
><http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2100488576&rd=1>http://
cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2100488576&rd=1
> >
> >This is the url for a dress from about 1835-1845 which is going for a
> >pretty good price.  I was outbid, but it's not really my era.  I prefer
> >20s - 30s vintage, but when I realized the dealer had no idea what he had
> >I felt bad so I let him know.  Anyway, it's still a steal and looks to be
> >in good shape.
>
> >
>
> Kayta
>
>     //// \\\
>    ////-@@\\\
>   ((((   7 )))
>    (((  <> ))))
>       )   ((((((
> /----\   /---\))
>
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In a message dated 9/14/2002 1:26:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net writes:


> "More like 1850s-60s, and I suspect that lace on the sleeves was added
> later."
> 
> Ok, that's interesting. Why do you think so?  I didn't go back and re-read
> my data, and this isn't my era per se.  Is it the sleeve shave? 

You mean "shape" obviously and yes, that's the key! How smart and observant 
you are. That "bell sleeve" is an 1850s forerunner of the pagoda sleeve of 
the 1860s. Of course I think one can see the bell start happening in the late 
late 1840s and still see it lingering in the early 1860s.

The "double darted" fronts tend to push it towards the 1850s as well. Though 
they do this in the 1830s, it's sorta "dur rigor" by the late 40s.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 9/14/2002 1:26:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time, cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">"More like 1850s-60s, and I suspect that lace on the sleeves was added
<BR>later."
<BR>
<BR>Ok, that's interesting. Why do you think so? &nbsp;I didn't go back and re-read
<BR>my data, and this isn't my era per se. &nbsp;Is it the sleeve shave? </FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>You mean "shape" obviously and yes, that's the key! How smart and observant you are. That "bell sleeve" is an 1850s forerunner of the pagoda sleeve of the 1860s. Of course I think one can see the bell start happening in the late late 1840s and still see it lingering in the early 1860s.
<BR>
<BR>The "double darted" fronts tend to push it towards the 1850s as well. Though they do this in the 1830s, it's sorta "dur rigor" by the late 40s.</FONT></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Sep 14 15:39:23 2002
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From: "Kendra Van Cleave" <kendrav@attbi.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Shameless ebay plug
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Hi all,

I've listed a few books and patterns on ebay that might be of interest =
to people on this list, including:

- Art of Dress by Jane Ashelford
- From Queen to Empress (exhibit catalog 1837-77)
- Rise & Fall of the Sleeve (exhibit catalog 1820's - 1830's)
- Maine Women & Fashion (exhibit catalog 1800-1840)
- Period Impressions 1770 Polonaise Pattern (sizes 18-20-22)

If you're interested, you can search for seller "tweedlebop" or click =
on:
http://cgi6.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=3D=
tweedlebop&completed=3D0&sort=3D3&since=3D-1&include=3D0&page=3D1&rows=3D=
25

Thanks,

Kendra


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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi all,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I've listed a few books and patterns on =
ebay that=20
might be of interest to people on this list, including:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>- Art of Dress by Jane =
Ashelford</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>- From Queen to Empress (exhibit =
catalog=20
1837-77)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>- Rise &amp; Fall of the Sleeve =
(exhibit catalog=20
1820's - 1830's)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>- Maine Women &amp; Fashion (exhibit =
catalog=20
1800-1840)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>- Period Impressions 1770 Polonaise =
Pattern (sizes=20
18-20-22)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>If you're interested, you can search =
for seller=20
"tweedlebop" or click on:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://cgi6.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&a=
mp;userid=3Dtweedlebop&amp;completed=3D0&amp;sort=3D3&amp;since=3D-1&amp;=
include=3D0&amp;page=3D1&amp;rows=3D25">http://cgi6.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayI=
SAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&amp;userid=3Dtweedlebop&amp;completed=3D0&=
amp;sort=3D3&amp;since=3D-1&amp;include=3D0&amp;page=3D1&amp;rows=3D25</A=
></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Kendra</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Sep 14 16:39:33 2002
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From: "Cabbage Rose" <cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s dress on Ebay-DEAL
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Ok, that makes total sense. I was looking at the armscye and didn't =
really stop to take in that the sleeve (yeah shape, ouch, typo!) shape =
was opening.  If I remember my study correctly 1935 would have been very =
very tight to the arm, right? =20

I think the history of clothes and the progression of style is =
absolutely fascinating.=20

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes=20
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design
"If we shadows have offended, think but this,
 and all is mended,
That you have but slumbered here,
 while these visions did appear."
A Midsummer Night's Dream; V, ii - W. Shakespeare


  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: AlbertCat@aol.com=20
  To: h-costume@indra.com=20
  Sent: Saturday, September 14, 2002 12:24 PM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s dress on Ebay-DEAL


  In a message dated 9/14/2002 1:26:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time, =
cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net writes:=20



    "More like 1850s-60s, and I suspect that lace on the sleeves was =
added=20
    later."=20

    Ok, that's interesting. Why do you think so?  I didn't go back and =
re-read=20
    my data, and this isn't my era per se.  Is it the sleeve shave?=20


  You mean "shape" obviously and yes, that's the key! How smart and =
observant you are. That "bell sleeve" is an 1850s forerunner of the =
pagoda sleeve of the 1860s. Of course I think one can see the bell start =
happening in the late late 1840s and still see it lingering in the early =
1860s.=20

  The "double darted" fronts tend to push it towards the 1850s as well. =
Though they do this in the 1830s, it's sorta "dur rigor" by the late =
40s.=20

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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Ok, that makes total sense. I was =
looking at the=20
armscye and didn't really stop to take in that the sleeve (yeah shape, =
ouch,=20
typo!) shape was opening.&nbsp; If I remember my study correctly 1935 =
would have=20
been very very tight to the arm, right?&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I think the history of clothes and the =
progression=20
of style&nbsp;is absolutely fascinating. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>angela</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>+++++<BR>Angela F. Lazear<BR>Cabbage =
Rose Costumes=20
<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com">http://www.cabbagerosecostume=
s.com</A><BR>Theatrical=20
Costume Design<BR>"If we shadows have offended, think but =
this,<BR>&nbsp;and all=20
is mended,<BR>That you have but slumbered here,<BR>&nbsp;while these =
visions did=20
appear."<BR>A Midsummer Night's Dream; V, ii - W. =
Shakespeare</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3DAlbertCat@aol.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:AlbertCat@aol.com">AlbertCat@aol.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dh-costume@indra.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, September 14, =
2002 12:24=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [h-cost] 1830s =
dress on=20
  Ebay-DEAL</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT size=3D3>In a =
message dated=20
  9/14/2002 1:26:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time, <A=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net">cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net</A> =
writes:=20
  <BR><BR></FONT><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size=3D2=20
  FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><BR>
  <BLOCKQUOTE=20
  style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px =
solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"=20
  TYPE=3D"CITE">"More like 1850s-60s, and I suspect that lace on the =
sleeves was=20
    added <BR>later." <BR><BR>Ok, that's interesting. Why do you think =
so?=20
    &nbsp;I didn't go back and re-read <BR>my data, and this isn't my =
era per=20
    se. &nbsp;Is it the sleeve shave? </FONT><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial =

    color=3D#000000 size=3D3 =
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"></BLOCKQUOTE><BR><BR>You mean "shape"=20
  obviously and yes, that's the key! How smart and observant you are. =
That "bell=20
  sleeve" is an 1850s forerunner of the pagoda sleeve of the 1860s. Of =
course I=20
  think one can see the bell start happening in the late late 1840s and =
still=20
  see it lingering in the early 1860s. <BR><BR>The "double darted" =
fronts tend=20
  to push it towards the 1850s as well. Though they do this in the =
1830s, it's=20
  sorta "dur rigor" by the late 40s.</FONT> =
</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C25BF4.7F0929D0--

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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <4.3.1.2.20020914043450.00c89920@mail.frys.com> <002001c25c13$e3618bb0$d12daf40@angelap3a8d978>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s dress on Ebay-DEAL
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Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 16:58:17 -0400
Status: RO

I do agree that the lace is probably a later addition  and perhaps very
recent, although it appears to be vintage lace (1890's?). I say recent
because the aesthestic of the  Victorian mode as expressed in the late
twentieth century seems evident. The width and volume of the flounce is
greater than you usually find even in the 1890's.  And the lace is wrong for
the 1860's, at least from examples of garments or even photos in my
collections.  I would question the later date of the garment because I have
a very similar one in comparable condition  that  is documented for 1843-45.
The bodice style and shape is reliable for that decade., and the fullness of
the skirt also looks correct. The 'interesting buttons' were also add-ons.
Their apparent style is almost nouveau and unlike antiques appropriate to
pre civil war buttons.  Also, I have never seen them used in that manner for
dress trim of that earlier period.
----- Original Message ----- Kathleen
From: "Cabbage Rose" <cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 14, 2002 1:26 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s dress on Ebay-DEAL


> "More like 1850s-60s, and I suspect that lace on the sleeves was added
> later."
>
> Ok, that's interesting. Why do you think so?  I didn't go back and re-read
> my data, and this isn't my era per se.  Is it the sleeve shave? I know the
> dropped armsceye was 1830s, and (I can't see it on anyone, so don't know
how
> tight the bodice is) the trim lines seemed earlier.  What specifically
> places it later that jumps out at you?
>
> thanks
>
> angela
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Saturday, September 14, 2002 4:35 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s dress on Ebay-DEAL
>
>
> > Angela Lazear writes, in a message sent 03:53 PM 9/13/02 -0700:
> >
>
><http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2100488576&rd=1>http://
> cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2100488576&rd=1
> > >
> > >This is the url for a dress from about 1835-1845 which is going for a
> > >pretty good price.  I was outbid, but it's not really my era.  I prefer
> > >20s - 30s vintage, but when I realized the dealer had no idea what he
had
> > >I felt bad so I let him know.  Anyway, it's still a steal and looks to
be
> > >in good shape.
> >
> > >
> >
> > Kayta
> >
> >     //// \\\
> >    ////-@@\\\
> >   ((((   7 )))
> >    (((  <> ))))
> >       )   ((((((
> > /----\   /---\))
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 16:12:44 -0500
Status: RO

That's why St Louis did it on Palm Sunday Weekend for CC16.  One week before
Easter.

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s dress on Ebay-DEAL
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Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 14:25:21 -0700
Status: RO


>"More like 1850s-60s, and I suspect that lace on the sleeves was added
>later."
>
>Ok, that's interesting. Why do you think so?  I didn't go back and re-read
>my data, and this isn't my era per se.  Is it the sleeve shave? I know the
>dropped armsceye was 1830s, and (I can't see it on anyone, so don't know how
>tight the bodice is) the trim lines seemed earlier.  What specifically
>places it later that jumps out at you?

1830s sleeves tend to be wide at the upper arm and close-fitting at the 
wrist.  1850s-60s sleeves tend to be close at the upper arm and bell out at 
the lower arm, not extending all the way to the wrist, as shown in the image.

1830s necklines are likely to be wider than this neckline, especially in 
mid decade, when the neckline sometimes widens almost to the 
shoulders.  The neckline on this example, and especially the front 
trimming, looks very much like 1850s-60s examples I have seen.

1830s fabric tends to be lighter-coloured and in floral stripes.  1850s-60s 
fabric is often darker and a different stripe, like the garment shown (I 
have seen other extant examples of this sort of stripe in 1950s-60s garments).

Real 1850s-60s lace tends to be compulsively handworky and delicate, 
tending to broidery Anglaise and eyelet, while this lace looks like 
1900-1920 darned net, as well as I could tell from the image on my 
screen.  Also, the lace is sewn right onto the sleeves, rather than being 
separate under-sleeves which is the usual 1850s-60s practice.  This is as 
tho somebody in the 1900s-1920s used it as a costume.

But if, as I assume, the garment is genuine 1850s-60s, the price is still 
very good.  I see such things offered for $300-$500 every once in a while, 
and people seem to be buying them for those prices.

Kayta

    //// \\\
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Museum of London Textile and Clothing book?
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Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 20:08:42 -0400
Status: RO

I've ordered from Amazon UK several times, and they pack really well 
in my experience- everything's arrived in great shape so far.

-Amanda
awaiting her most recent order there, including 2 MoL books :)
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Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 18:03:45 -0700
Status: RO

Katya,

The lace part I had figured out, but the rest is fascinating.  I have only
studied garments of this period by reading Joan Severa's "Dressed for the
Photographer" and that has been 3 years ago. I completely forgot the sleeve
detail and was focusing on the bodice, but your details make sense.  I
should have gone back and double checked, but I was in a rush to let the guy
know he had something that appeared to be quite a bit older than he thought.

You're right though, the price was still pretty good for the piece, if it is
in fact in the condition he describes and without fabric rot.

Thanks for taking the time to re-educate me.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design
"If we shadows have offended, think but this,
 and all is mended,
That you have but slumbered here,
 while these visions did appear."
A Midsummer Night's Dream; V, ii - W. Shakespeare


----- Original Message -----
From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 14, 2002 2:25 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s dress on Ebay-DEAL


>
> >"More like 1850s-60s, and I suspect that lace on the sleeves was added
> >later."
> >
> >Ok, that's interesting. Why do you think so?  I didn't go back and
re-read
> >my data, and this isn't my era per se.  Is it the sleeve shave? I know
the
> >dropped armsceye was 1830s, and (I can't see it on anyone, so don't know
how
> >tight the bodice is) the trim lines seemed earlier.  What specifically
> >places it later that jumps out at you?
>
> 1830s sleeves tend to be wide at the upper arm and close-fitting at the
> wrist.  1850s-60s sleeves tend to be close at the upper arm and bell out
at
> the lower arm, not extending all the way to the wrist, as shown in the
image.
>
> 1830s necklines are likely to be wider than this neckline, especially in
> mid decade, when the neckline sometimes widens almost to the
> shoulders.  The neckline on this example, and especially the front
> trimming, looks very much like 1850s-60s examples I have seen.
>
> 1830s fabric tends to be lighter-coloured and in floral stripes.
1850s-60s
> fabric is often darker and a different stripe, like the garment shown (I
> have seen other extant examples of this sort of stripe in 1950s-60s
garments).
>
> Real 1850s-60s lace tends to be compulsively handworky and delicate,
> tending to broidery Anglaise and eyelet, while this lace looks like
> 1900-1920 darned net, as well as I could tell from the image on my
> screen.  Also, the lace is sewn right onto the sleeves, rather than being
> separate under-sleeves which is the usual 1850s-60s practice.  This is as
> tho somebody in the 1900s-1920s used it as a costume.
>
> But if, as I assume, the garment is genuine 1850s-60s, the price is still
> very good.  I see such things offered for $300-$500 every once in a while,
> and people seem to be buying them for those prices.
>
> Kayta
>
>     //// \\\
>    ////-@@\\\
>   ((((   7 )))
>    (((  <> ))))
>       )   ((((((
> /----\   /---\))
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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References: <019a01c25b78$50272120$140010ac@AngelaFLazear>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s dress on Ebay-DEAL
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 10:29:31 +0200
Status: RO

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Hello.
Thanks for sharing that. The lace wich is attached to the skirt must be =
a buckinghamshire lace. Very beautifull.
Thanks=20

Bjarne
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Angela Lazear=20
  To: h-costume@indra.com=20
  Sent: Saturday, September 14, 2002 12:53 AM
  Subject: [h-cost] 1830s dress on Ebay-DEAL


  http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3D2100488576&rd=3D1

  This is the url for a dress from about 1835-1845 which is going for a =
pretty good price.  I was outbid, but it's not really my era.  I prefer =
20s - 30s vintage, but when I realized the dealer had no idea what he =
had I felt bad so I let him know.  Anyway, it's still a steal and looks =
to be in good shape.

  angela
  +++++
  Angela F. Lazear
  Cabbabe Rose Costumes
  Theatrical Costume Design
  "Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:=20
  be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,=20
  and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:=20
  be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
  W. Shakespeare
  http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com

------=_NextPart_000_003E_01C25CA2.C76AD580
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
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charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2719.2200" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hello.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks for sharing that. The lace wich =
is attached=20
to the skirt must be a buckinghamshire lace. Very =
beautifull.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Bjarne</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Dangelalazear@sbcglobal.net=20
  href=3D"mailto:angelalazear@sbcglobal.net">Angela Lazear</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dh-costume@indra.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, September 14, =
2002 12:53=20
  AM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [h-cost] 1830s dress =
on=20
  Ebay-DEAL</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
  =
href=3D"http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;item=3D21004885=
76&amp;rd=3D1">http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;item=3D2=
100488576&amp;rd=3D1</A></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>This is the url for a dress from =
about 1835-1845=20
  which is going for a pretty good price.&nbsp; I was outbid, but it's =
not=20
  really my era.&nbsp; I prefer 20s - 30s vintage, but when I realized =
the=20
  dealer had no idea what he had I felt bad so I let him know.&nbsp; =
Anyway,=20
  it's still a steal and looks to be in good shape.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>angela</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>+++++<BR>Angela F. Lazear<BR>Cabbabe =
Rose=20
  Costumes<BR>Theatrical Costume Design<BR>"Love all, trust a few, do =
wrong to=20
  none: <BR>be able for thine enemy rather in power than use, <BR>and =
keep thy=20
  friend under thy own life's key: <BR>be checked for silence, but never =
taxed=20
  for speech..."<BR>W. Shakespeare<BR><A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com">http://www.cabbagerosecostume=
s.com</A></FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Sep 15 04:34:23 2002
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References: <4.3.1.2.20020914043450.00c89920@mail.frys.com> <002001c25c13$e3618bb0$d12daf40@angelap3a8d978> <001701c25c32$5ad31ba0$6c5183d1@rmitchellras>
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 10:37:37 +0200
Status: RO

Hello.
I have to disagree with you.
This gorgeous lace is a real thing. Probably 1840-50 Buckinghamshire lace.
This i say because i make lace myself and i have studied many laces.

Bjarne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 14, 2002 10:58 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s dress on Ebay-DEAL


> I do agree that the lace is probably a later addition  and perhaps very
> recent, although it appears to be vintage lace (1890's?). I say recent
> because the aesthestic of the  Victorian mode as expressed in the late
> twentieth century seems evident. The width and volume of the flounce is
> greater than you usually find even in the 1890's.  And the lace is wrong
for
> the 1860's, at least from examples of garments or even photos in my
> collections.  I would question the later date of the garment because I
have
> a very similar one in comparable condition  that  is documented for
1843-45.
> The bodice style and shape is reliable for that decade., and the fullness
of
> the skirt also looks correct. The 'interesting buttons' were also add-ons.
> Their apparent style is almost nouveau and unlike antiques appropriate to
> pre civil war buttons.  Also, I have never seen them used in that manner
for
> dress trim of that earlier period.
> ----- Original Message ----- Kathleen
> From: "Cabbage Rose" <cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Saturday, September 14, 2002 1:26 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s dress on Ebay-DEAL
>
>
> > "More like 1850s-60s, and I suspect that lace on the sleeves was added
> > later."
> >
> > Ok, that's interesting. Why do you think so?  I didn't go back and
re-read
> > my data, and this isn't my era per se.  Is it the sleeve shave? I know
the
> > dropped armsceye was 1830s, and (I can't see it on anyone, so don't know
> how
> > tight the bodice is) the trim lines seemed earlier.  What specifically
> > places it later that jumps out at you?
> >
> > thanks
> >
> > angela
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
> > To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Saturday, September 14, 2002 4:35 AM
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s dress on Ebay-DEAL
> >
> >
> > > Angela Lazear writes, in a message sent 03:53 PM 9/13/02 -0700:
> > >
> >
>
><http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2100488576&rd=1>http://
> > cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2100488576&rd=1
> > > >
> > > >This is the url for a dress from about 1835-1845 which is going for a
> > > >pretty good price.  I was outbid, but it's not really my era.  I
prefer
> > > >20s - 30s vintage, but when I realized the dealer had no idea what he
> had
> > > >I felt bad so I let him know.  Anyway, it's still a steal and looks
to
> be
> > > >in good shape.
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > Kayta
> > >
> > >     //// \\\
> > >    ////-@@\\\
> > >   ((((   7 )))
> > >    (((  <> ))))
> > >       )   ((((((
> > > /----\   /---\))
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 10:43:03 +0200
Status: RO

AArgh, sorry, not attached to the skirt, but the sleave off cause!!!

Bjarne




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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s dress on Ebay-DEAL
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 02:14:11 -0700
Status: RO


>I have to disagree with you.
>This gorgeous lace is a real thing. Probably 1840-50 Buckinghamshire lace.
>This i say because i make lace myself and i have studied many laces.

All I can tell is what it looks like on my monitor.  I can't tell the 
difference between Buckinghamshire and darned net at this resolution.  But 
I never saw lace attached directly to a cuff on an 1850s dress.


Kayta

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Subject: [h-cost] International Copyrights
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 05:56:32 -0400
Status: RO

Does anyone know of a URL that will let me know when copyrights expire in
European countries and Australian expire?  I am stuck with the latest date
in the U.S. at 1923.  So I am interested in hat year other countries'
copyright laws expire.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Sep 15 06:15:33 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] International Copyrights
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 11:16:30 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote: > Does anyone know of a
URL that will let me know when copyrights expire in
> European countries and Australian expire?  I am stuck with the latest date
> in the U.S. at 1923.  So I am interested in hat year other countries'
> copyright laws expire.

I don't know about a site, but the problem is that apparently the last time I
spoke to a lawyer there is no such thing as an 'international' copyright law,
but individual laws of countries that are very similar though. Furthermore I
have always been warned that although a copyright appears to be expried or a
copyright holder cannot be found, in 99% of all cases the copyright has been
transferred to another. I just spoke to an expert the other week because of the
UK Universities' HERON project, regarding electronic publishing of
material,which has much stricter rules than the paper publishing in classrooms
etc. Actually, the rules are so strict that they make one shiver. Anyway, he
said that what sometimes takes months is the tracking down of a current
copyright holder, and even though a magazine from 1900 may apperar as if its
copyright had expried, it most probably was just transferred.
No idea about US stuff though, maybe it is different there, but if you for
example took material out of a very old Punch issue, and believed because you
bought this issue off a dealer, you could claim that the copyright was yours
and ppl have to pay you for it, you are most probably wrong, because the
material in the Punch issue would have gone to the heirs of the contribuors or
syndicates or follow ups of those, or transferred to the heirs of the owners of
Punch.
Something like that, this is how I understood it after questioning the
gentleman for quite a while, but hey, I may be wrong *laughs*

The best is, penny, if you contact a lawyer who specialises in this, otherwise
you may get into DEEP trouble, because that's what I have learned from HERON,
that actually, the laws are extremely strict (for example if an article that
was copyright cleared = payed for, has an image, the image and every other
image has to be seperately copyright cleared). I am glad I am not directly
responsible for the copyright clearance for my faculty...

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 09:24:49 +0000
Status: RO

I was in Michael's yesterday and found a thread cutter ring ($6.95) and
also a pendent thread cutter ($7.95). Both are made by Clover
Manufacturing. Nice if you can't carry scissors on the plane.


				Arlys

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Subject: [h-cost] Finished the Corded Corset c. 1820
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 13:40:45 -0500
Status: RO

I thought I sent this to the list yesterday evening, but it seems to have vanished.

I put together a blow-by-blow of my attempt of a corded corset c.1820.. so if you wish to 
read and view it.. you can find it at

http://www.seams-to-be.com/1820.htm
I only ask that you be kind in your public comments... :D
-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Finished the Corded Corset c. 1820
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 20:53:28 +0200
Status: RO

Dear Linda.

This is very fine work you have done here, congratulations with the
beautifull corset.

Bjarne


----- Original Message -----
From: "Linda J. Thompson" <LindaJThompson@comcast.net>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2002 8:40 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Finished the Corded Corset c. 1820


> I thought I sent this to the list yesterday evening, but it seems to have
vanished.
>
> I put together a blow-by-blow of my attempt of a corded corset c.1820.. so
if you wish to
> read and view it.. you can find it at
>
> http://www.seams-to-be.com/1820.htm
> I only ask that you be kind in your public comments... :D
> --
> Linda Thompson
>
> Visit www.seams-to-be.com
> where Attitude is Everything
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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From: "Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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References: <4.3.1.2.20020914043450.00c89920@mail.frys.com> <002001c25c13$e3618bb0$d12daf40@angelap3a8d978> <001701c25c32$5ad31ba0$6c5183d1@rmitchellras> <4.3.1.2.20020915021241.04cfde80@mail.frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s dress on Ebay-DEAL
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 21:07:25 +0200
Status: RO

Dear Kayta
You are right that it is hard to se exactly because the picture is a low
resolution. But it struck me that this flower i have seen many times in
buckinghamshire lace. Buckingham uses a thick gimp thread to outline the
motifes.
For the dress i must admit that i dont know enough, my period's stops with
regency.

Bjarne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2002 11:14 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s dress on Ebay-DEAL


>
> >I have to disagree with you.
> >This gorgeous lace is a real thing. Probably 1840-50 Buckinghamshire
lace.
> >This i say because i make lace myself and i have studied many laces.
>
> All I can tell is what it looks like on my monitor.  I can't tell the
> difference between Buckinghamshire and darned net at this resolution.  But
> I never saw lace attached directly to a cuff on an 1850s dress.
>
>
> Kayta
>
>     //// \\\
>    ////-@@\\\
>   ((((   7 )))
>    (((  <> ))))
>       )   ((((((
> /----\   /---\))
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Finished the Corded Corset c. 1820
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 20:09:00 +0100
Status: RO

Thanks for sharing the info

What is Waisted Efforts ? or where can one get it ?

Thanks
Mel

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] International Copyrights
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 13:25:44 -0700
Status: RO



N Kipar wrote:

>  --- Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote: > Does anyone know of a
> URL that will let me know when copyrights expire in
> > European countries and Australian expire?  I am stuck with the latest date
> > in the U.S. at 1923.  So I am interested in hat year other countries'
> > copyright laws expire.
>
> I don't know about a site

Nor do I know of one.


> but the problem is that apparently the last time I
> spoke to a lawyer there is no such thing as an 'international' copyright law

It is true that every country has different copyright laws, and you need to know
what these are before reprinting foreign material, as most countries have agreed to
respect each other's laws.


> Furthermore I
> have always been warned that although a copyright appears to be expried or a
> copyright holder cannot be found, in 99% of all cases the copyright has been
> transferred to another.

As far as I know, for most countries there is a date where a work has clearly
entered the public domain (the copyright has expired) and it stays there.  It is
only for works more recent than th this date that you have to worry about such
issues as re-registration and transfer of rights.


> Anyway, he
> said that what sometimes takes months is the tracking down of a current
> copyright holder

This can be true of a work that is older, but not yet in the public domain.



> and even though a magazine from 1900 may apperar as if its
> copyright had expried, it most probably was just transferred.

If it's passed the expiration date, it's in the public domain.



>
> No idea about US stuff though, maybe it is different there, but if you for
> example took material out of a very old Punch issue, and believed because you
> bought this issue off a dealer, you could claim that the copyright was yours
> and ppl have to pay you for it

No one can acquire the copyright to a work in the public domain.  In the US, at
least, you can copyright any changes you make to the work.  Such as the selection
of materials for an anthology, editing of text, editing of illustrations, layout on
the page, any new text (such as an introduction, footnotes, or index), translation
to another language, etc.

> (for example if an article that
> was copyright cleared = payed for, has an image, the image and every other
> image has to be seperately copyright cleared)

Permission to use copyrighted images must be obtained--you can't "borrow" one from
a work on the grounds that it's just one illustration.  But whether copyright for
each image must be obtained from a different person depends on whether the rights
for each image are held by different people--which they may or may not be.  If the
copyrights to the images have expired, of course you don't have to worry about
this.


Fran

>

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] International Copyrights
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 22:51:36 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote: > 

> It is true that every country has different copyright laws, and you need to
> know
> what these are before reprinting foreign material, as most countries have
> agreed to
> respect each other's laws.

Perhaps the best way, Penny, for you is to search for each individual country's
copyright laws.

> As far as I know, for most countries there is a date where a work has clearly
> entered the public domain (the copyright has expired) and it stays there.  It
> is
> only for works more recent than th this date that you have to worry about
> such
> issues as re-registration and transfer of rights.

Well, I can only say what he said, but it might well be that he didn't quite
understand my request/question. he certainly was rather astonished when I
mentioned publications like Hannah Wooley's from 1677, held in the British
Library.

> > Anyway, he
> > said that what sometimes takes months is the tracking down of a current
> > copyright holder
> 
> This can be true of a work that is older, but not yet in the public domain.

I wish I knew, if this is the case, what the expiration date is.
 
> No one can acquire the copyright to a work in the public domain.  In the US,

I thought the same, but tehn why do people claim they have it? Don't get me
wrong, I think that Penny does GREAT stuff, but I can't understand why she says
that the magazines are copyrighted to the costume gallery then on the web
pages. I'm just confused. :-) 

> Permission to use copyrighted images must be obtained--you can't "borrow" one
> from
> a work on the grounds that it's just one illustration. 

You can't use the image, if it is not copyrighted by the author/publisher from
whom you obtain permission, full stop. Unless the copyright owner of said image
has agreed. This goes for image 2, image 3, and so on. If they are all owned by
one, fine. If they are owned by several, stress.

 But whether copyright
> for
> each image must be obtained from a different person depends on whether the
> rights
> for each image are held by different people--which they may or may not be.

This goes without saying, doesn't it? Yet permission must be obtained for each
image that is in the article (for example)
 
> If the
> copyrights to the images have expired, of course you don't have to worry
> about
> this.

True. See above. Anyone knows anything about expiration date in the UK? I can
ask the library tomorrow.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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In a message dated 9/15/02 2:53:00 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com writes:


> I thought the same, but tehn why do people claim they have it? Don't get me
> wrong, I think that Penny does GREAT stuff, but I can't understand why she 
> says
> that the magazines are copyrighted to the costume gallery then on the web
> pages. I'm just confused. :-) 
> 
> 

Asked a friend about this who works for a copyright patent lawyer.  Here is 
what she found out...Penny can copyright the format she has, in other words 
no cut and paste...but the items cannot be recopyrighted.  The info she has 
is not copywrited.  What she can copyright is the format she presents it in.  
And if she is scanning them into the site and not changing the format then 
she has no copyright.

Osmondia

--part1_10c.17cbf0df.2ab65d08_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 9/15/02 2:53:00 PM Pacific Daylight Time, nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I thought the same, but tehn why do people claim they have it? Don't get me<BR>
wrong, I think that Penny does GREAT stuff, but I can't understand why she says<BR>
that the magazines are copyrighted to the costume gallery then on the web<BR>
pages. I'm just confused. :-) <BR>
<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Asked a friend about this who works for a copyright patent lawyer.&nbsp; Here is what she found out...Penny can copyright the format she has, in other words no cut and paste...but the items cannot be recopyrighted.&nbsp; The info she has is not copywrited.&nbsp; What she can copyright is the format she presents it in.&nbsp; And if she is scanning them into the site and not changing the format then she has no copyright.<BR>
<BR>
Osmondia</FONT></HTML>

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From: AnnBWass@aol.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Museum of London Textile and Clothing book?
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 18:14:03 EDT
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In a message dated 9/13/2002 11:28:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
rosenau5@yahoo.com writes:


> Where, pray tell, can I get the Museum of London
> Textile and Clothing book here in the US.  Ditto some
> of the other interesting looking books from the MoL? 
> Amazon lists them but wishes me to order them through
> their UK site.  I'd rather get them here in the states
> in the hopes that they won't be too battered in the
> shipping if someone gets them by the box, not the
> single book padded envelope.  Thanks.
>                                   

I've ordered books both directly from the Museum of the City of London and 
from Amazon UK and they have all arrived in great condition and surprisingly 
fast.
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 9/13/2002 11:28:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time, rosenau5@yahoo.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Where, pray tell, can I get the Museum of London<BR>
Textile and Clothing book here in the US.&nbsp; Ditto some<BR>
of the other interesting looking books from the MoL? <BR>
Amazon lists them but wishes me to order them through<BR>
their UK site.&nbsp; I'd rather get them here in the states<BR>
in the hopes that they won't be too battered in the<BR>
shipping if someone gets them by the box, not the<BR>
single book padded envelope.&nbsp; Thanks.<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
I've ordered books both directly from the Museum of the City of London and from Amazon UK and they have all arrived in great condition and surprisingly fast.<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Average meters of boning needed for corsets?
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 08:31:25 -0700
Status: RO



N Kipar wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> I am completely new to this corset making thing and need you help in averaging
> how many meters of boning I would need per corset or bodice. For different
> periods, if possible. I am a medium size, well, you saw the pix, a UK 16, or
> German 42 and a 38B bust.
> I asked for the average meters for Margo's corset pattern on herlist (got that
> one at home and am very eager to try it with Teddy's help!)
> Does anyone know for a 17th and an 18th c. corset, and even for a 19th c. one
> perhaps?

It depends a lot on the style of the corset (ie if it has any very long bones in
it,
or a long point), and how wide the boning is, and whether you will fully bone
or half bone it. The corsets I've made (16th, 17th and 18th c) generally use about

12m of boning. I fully bone the front and half bone the back and sides. Usually
about half of the 12m goes in the fully boned front. And I'm a bit smaller than
you are Nicole.
Claire

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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 18:24:47 EDT
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And, Penny, another problem is that other countries don't register copyrights 
like we do here, so it is much harder to track down.
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">And, Penny, another problem is that other countries don't register copyrights like we do here, so it is much harder to track down.<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] International Copyrights
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 23:28:33 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Osmondia@aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 9/15/02 2:53:00 PM Pacific
Daylight Time, 

> Asked a friend about this who works for a copyright patent lawyer.  Here is 
> what she found out...Penny can copyright the format she has, in other words 
> no cut and paste...but the items cannot be recopyrighted.  The info she has 
> is not copywrited.  What she can copyright is the format she presents it in. 
> 
> And if she is scanning them into the site and not changing the format then 
> she has no copyright.

Fascinating to know, thank you! Glad I did it right on my site, would be a pain
to change. :-)))

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 15:58:22 -0700
Status: RO

>
>
> > As far as I know, for most countries there is a date where a work has clearly
> > entered the public domain (the copyright has expired) and it stays there.  It
> > is
> > only for works more recent than th this date that you have to worry about
> > such
> > issues as re-registration and transfer of rights.
>
> Well, I can only say what he said, but it might well be that he didn't quite
> understand my request/question. he certainly was rather astonished when I
> mentioned publications like Hannah Wooley's from 1677, held in the British
> Library.

At least in US law, there is another issue that has nothing to do with copyright
(works can have protections/restrictions other than or in addition to copyright).
Which is, permission to use the physical copy of the work, by the owner.  If a
library, historical society, or individual lends you a work whose content is  in
the public domain, but for the purpose of personal reading or research rather than
reprinting, then it's not legal for you to reprint from that copy without their
permission.  The owner has the right to protect their own business interests, if
they plan to reprint the work themselves at some point. They have the right to
protect their physical copy from activities that may damage it, such as scanning.
The bottom line is it's their _copy_, and in lending it to you they essentially
license how you can use it.  This can be an issue with a rare work, where you can't
just go out and buy your own copy off the net.

>
>
> True. See above. Anyone knows anything about expiration date in the UK? I can
> ask the library tomorrow.
>

Here is the URL of the British Library Copyright Office:

http://www.bl.uk/services/information/copyright.html

and here is the URL of their chart of British copyright duration:

http://www.bl.uk/services/information/coptable.html

Fran

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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 16:03:15 -0700
Status: RO

>
>
>
>
>> I thought the same, but tehn why do people claim they have it?
>> Don't get me
>> wrong, I think that Penny does GREAT stuff, but I can't understand
>> why she says
>> that the magazines are copyrighted to the costume gallery then on
>> the web
>> pages. I'm just confused. :-)
>>
>
> Asked a friend about this who works for a copyright patent lawyer.
> Here is what she found out...Penny can copyright the format she has,
> in other words no cut and paste...but the items cannot be
> recopyrighted.  The info she has is not copywrited.  What she can
> copyright is the format she presents it in.  And if she is scanning
> them into the site and not changing the format then she has no
> copyright.
>
> Osmondia

Penny can, however, copyright her selection and arrangement of the
material she included. And her edited versions of the text if she
edited it, her edited versions of the illustrations if she edited
them.  She can, in other words, copyright her changes, her edition of
this material.

We've done this for all our pattern books--consulted copyright
lawyers, and registered our copyrights with the US Copyright Office.

Fran

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance


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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 19:12:35 EDT
Status: RO

<PRE>That is what I said.  If she changes it she may copyright the changes.  But 
if she is just scanning them in she may not say it is copyrighted.  The same 
goes for pictures that are bought...you may not copyright them because you 
have no intelligent rights to the.
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 16:25:19 -0700
Status: RO



Osmondia@aol.com wrote:

> <PRE>That is what I said.  If she changes it she may copyright the changes.  But
> if she is just scanning them in she may not say it is copyrighted.  The same
> goes for pictures that are bought...you may not copyright them because you
> have no intelligent rights to the.

According to our lawyer, this gets really complex--because, scanner settings can
have a lot of effect on the scanned image.  Two scans of the same image are not
necessarily alike.  Color scans, especially, can vary a lot with the settings.  For
example, our book  _After a Fashion_ has a (primarily) jade green cover.  This
turned out to be a bad choice, because although it was easy to print correctly it is
very hard to scan in a way that displays tastefully on a monitor.  Our website
displays the color very much as on the real book--but, we fiddled with the scan
settings a lot to get it right.  Most retailers putting up their own quickie scans
of the same cover wound up with a really lurid, awful shade of kelly green.

So:  Supposing the image is in the public domain and therefore legal for anyone to
scan--different scans may, in fact be copyrightable. Different photos of the image
would certainly be, even if they looked very much alike.

Fran

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance


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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 19:25:07 -0400
Status: RO



It sounds as if British copyright law is much stricter than U.S. Part of the
intent of our (US) copyright law is that works will ALL someday be in the
public domain, so that no one has a copyright forever. Perhaps part of the
intent of British law is for works to be able to be controlled privately
forever. That's my guess, anyway.

Anyway, please correct me if I'm wrong Fran and others, but another point
about Penny's copyright -- you can't copy her images, but if you have
another copy of any of the publications she used, you can copy THOSE images
in your own book or on your own web site. You just can't take Penny's. Her
copyright is for her work created with public domain images, not for the
public domain image. See?

Gail Finke


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Does anyone have any tips for hemming floor length full skirts?

Linda

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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Does anyone have any tips for hemming =
floor length=20
full skirts?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Linda</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Patience. Lots of patience.

I am cartridge pleating a skirt for the very first time, and following a =
suggestion from Teddy ( no, it's not orange!), I'm putting a bead =
between each pleat. Looks good, so long as I don't run out of beads!

Dianne

  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: LLB=20
  To: h-costume@indra.com=20
  Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2002 7:32 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] Hems


  Does anyone have any tips for hemming floor length full skirts?

  Linda

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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#eeeeee>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Patience. Lots of =
patience.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I am cartridge pleating a skirt for the =
very first=20
time, and following a suggestion from Teddy ( no, it's not orange!), I'm =
putting=20
a bead between each pleat. Looks good, so long as I don't run out of=20
beads!<BR><BR>Dianne</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Dsasha7@ix.netcom.com =
href=3D"mailto:sasha7@ix.netcom.com">LLB</A>=20
</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dh-costume@indra.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, September 15, =
2002 7:32=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [h-cost] Hems</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Does anyone have any tips for hemming =
floor=20
  length full skirts?</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2>Linda</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hems
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 16:53:39 -0700
Status: RO

At 4:32 PM -0700 9/15/02, LLB wrote:
>Does anyone have any tips for hemming floor length full skirts?
>
>Linda

Assuming that you're asking about the marking/trimming/pinning 
aspect, as opposed to the sewing aspect, my favorite method is to 
have the person wearing the skirt stand on a stool (chairs with backs 
don't work) so that the excess fabric can fall naturally down past 
the feet and not puddle up.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 19:13:16 -0500
Status: RO

You can purchase this book from Sartorial Press (the publisher)

http://www.sartorialpress.com/available_book_titles.html

-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: international copyright law
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 17:17:51 -0700
Status: RO

> Anyway, please correct me if I'm wrong Fran and others, but another point
> about Penny's copyright -- you can't copy her images, but if you have
> another copy of any of the publications she used, you can copy THOSE images
> in your own book or on your own web site. You just can't take Penny's. Her
> copyright is for her work created with public domain images, not for the
> public domain image. See?
>
> Gail Finke
>

Exactly.

Re copyright of scans:  Savvy publishers who hire graphic artists or services to
scan images make sure to obtain the copyrights of the scans in the contract.
There is a scam (in my opinion) where the person scans the images, then
announces that if the publisher actually wants to _use_ the scans, they have to
pay $$$ extra, because the _rights_ to the scans weren't explicitly included in
the contract.  The person scanning didn't bring up this issue when the contract
was drawn up, of course; only when it's time to turn over the scans.  The
publisher then has to decide whether it is more expensive to have all the
scanning redone by someone else (with a tighter contract) or to pay the first
person extra.  I know more than one publisher who's been burned on this one.

Fran


---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hems
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 20:38:33 -0400
Status: RO

>my favorite method is to have the person wearing the skirt
>stand on a stool (chairs with backs don't work) so that the
>excess fabric can fall naturally down past the feet and not
>puddle up.

If you can find a stable/level enough stool, you might be able to combine 
this with another techniqe I've heard of (but I will admit I've not yet 
had a chance to try)...

Run a level line across a doorway and chalk it.  Stand (on the stool) so 
that the fabric of the skirt brushes against the line.  Then slowly 
rotate to mark the hem all around.


Jessica Clark
SCA: Irene leNoir
irene@loudzen.com
www.loudzen.com/users/jessica

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Average meters of boning needed for corsets?
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 12:58:13 +1200
Status: RO

> It depends a lot on the style of the corset (ie if it has any very long
bones in
> it,
> or a long point), and how wide the boning is, and whether you will fully
bone
> or half bone it. The corsets I've made (16th, 17th and 18th c) generally
use about
> 12m of boning. I fully bone the front and half bone the back and sides.
Usually
> about half of the 12m goes in the fully boned front. And I'm a bit smaller
than
> you are Nicole.

I agree. I used about this much just in this corset:
http://recital.tripod.com/costume/margaret.htm Note I have 2 handy photos of
it laid out so you can see all the channels:)

And that's not as fully boned as I would have liked. I was given 8 metres at
first, and then a further 3 so that's 11m, and I could have done with
another metre.

This is why a lot of people have problems with plastic boning, they simply
don't use as much as required. Not saying that's the cause of all the
problems, but it's a big one.

I'm a size.. erg, 10AUS which is a size 12 NZ (or at least it used to be til
we took on Aussie sizes recently) Something likea  size 8US? Eh, you can see
from the piccies;)

michaela
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce
http://recital.tripod.com/costume


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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 22:04:27 -0400
Status: RO

BTW, relating to an earlier thread, according to my copy of
"today" today (Sunday Sept 15) is Felt Hat Day, when men of
fashion put away their straw hats.

	Just FYI.

	-Judy Mitchell


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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 12:05:36 +1000 (EST)
Status: RO

 --- Irene leNoir <irene@loudzen.com> wrote: 
> If you can find a stable/level enough stool, you
> might be able to combine 
> this with another techniqe I've heard of (but I will
> admit I've not yet 
> had a chance to try)...
> 
> Run a level line across a doorway and chalk it. 
> Stand (on the stool) so 
> that the fabric of the skirt brushes against the
> line.  Then slowly 
> rotate to mark the hem all around.


This is the BEST tip I've read in a long while! Thanks
for posting it. :)


Bella 

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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 22:12:23 -0400
Status: RO

Hi. It seems nice and perfectly applicable for SCA/ Renfaire use, and at
125 US, a great buy. There seems to be a little gap between the doublet
and breeches that can be remedied by the addition of points or hooks and
eyes. It is nice to see the whole suit available, including hat, hose,
etc. My first attempt at the same sort of suit was not as well done, nor
as fancy.  Mike T.



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References: <20020913101054.740.qmail@web13308.mail.yahoo.com> <a05010400b9a788ba618f@[209.249.181.36]> <018101c25b53$9a84c1c0$5c0c8ea7@hppav>
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 22:27:55 -0400
Status: RO

Hi. The wreath of leaves with berries and the K might indicate Korea. Heraldry
appears to be used by anyone attempting to imply quality. The term "Registered"
might indicate origin, as different nations use different terms. That's all I
have (sorry). Mike T.



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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 20:18:46 -0700
Status: RO

VICTORIAN COLONIAL Costume LONG DRESS - SCA
Item # 714386217

One dress for all your costuming needs!

Kayta

    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
  ((((   7 )))
   (((  <> ))))
      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Sep 16 00:11:14 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: international copyright law
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 00:12:48 -0400
Status: RO

Thank you Fran for the link for Britain's copyright laws.

As for the images and articles on my website....
None of the images on my website are straight scans.  I wish it was that
easy, but we spend many hours cleaning and repainting a lot of the images.
Right now, I am working on a 1922 Lane Bryant Maternity catalog.  Boy what a
mess I got myself into, but the end product will be worth it.  I am spending
about 8-12 hours cleaning and repainting each image.  I spent all last
night, separating three ladies on one page that were presented as a group.
They put prices and graphics all over the illustrations.  So I am taking
them off and painting in what I would think would be in its place.
Repainting gets really strange when I have to paint the people body parts
because they have another image overlapping.  Plus that I take a lot of the
backgrounds out to feature the original model.  Plus, the catalog's images
on the back side bleed through the page so I have to paint out the bleed
through. So that is why there are copyrights on them.  The images are being
presented in an entirely new manner.

I own 90% of the material that is presented on my website.  The other 10%
has been loaned to me, and I have permission letters from the owners.  When
I did my internship in a museum, part of my work was in the manuscript
archives.  I learned a great deal about loaning and borrowing materials when
I was in the archives.  When I started my online library was when I started
collecting original manuscripts.  So yes, if you own the same articles and
images that I am presenting online, you may put it online, but you can't
present it in the same manner that I am.

Also when I first started putting articles online, I consulted with Ladies
Home Journal and Vogue/Butterick lawyers about what I wanted to do.  The
manner of my presentation is copyrighted, especially the html code.  We do
edit the text of articles but try to stay to the original tone of the
article.  We do change the spellings of some words but words like colour is
left the same because the average reader understands its meaning.  My
husband, a professional editor, proofread an article that you will see later
tonight.  When the article was originally written it appeared that certain
words were missing.  So we added them in.

After consulting with a copyright attorney, we need to be remove the
trademarked names, like Ladies Home Journal out of the webpage titles and
meta tags.  This is a long process that we are working on.  We can legally
state that this article was originally printed in... and put the trademarked
name in the bibliography source but not in the title of the webpage.
Before someone remarks that there are trademarked names in my titles, please
remember, we are in the process of changing this.

As for copyright laws in different countries... I am interested in using
material from other countries, for two reasons.  1. I would like to make my
library more international oriented...not just American fashions.  2. I
would like to cover more of the 20th Century fashions but because of US
copyright laws, I am stuck at the year 1923.  So I am looking at other
countries as possible sources.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 21:36:34 -0700
Status: RO



Penny Ladnier wrote:

> Thank you Fran for the link for Britain's copyright laws.
>
> As for the images and articles on my website....
> None of the images on my website are straight scans.  I wish it was that
> easy, but we spend many hours cleaning and repainting a lot of the images.
> Right now, I am working on a 1922 Lane Bryant Maternity catalog.  Boy what a
> mess I got myself into, but the end product will be worth it.  I am spending
> about 8-12 hours cleaning and repainting each image.  I spent all last
> night, separating three ladies on one page that were presented as a group.
> They put prices and graphics all over the illustrations.  So I am taking
> them off and painting in what I would think would be in its place.
> Repainting gets really strange when I have to paint the people body parts
> because they have another image overlapping.  Plus that I take a lot of the
> backgrounds out to feature the original model.  Plus, the catalog's images
> on the back side bleed through the page so I have to paint out the bleed
> through. So that is why there are copyrights on them.  The images are being
> presented in an entirely new manner.

> <snip>

>
> We do
> edit the text of articles but try to stay to the original tone of the
> article.

We do a lot of that kind of scan and text editing too.  Our lawyer said that work/the new
versions are copyrightable, so we register the rights to it/them.

Fran

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance


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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 23:44:22 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Sun, 15 Sep 2002, Irene leNoir wrote:

> >my favorite method is to have the person wearing the skirt
> >stand on a stool (chairs with backs don't work) so that the
> >excess fabric can fall naturally down past the feet and not
> >puddle up.
> 
> Run a level line across a doorway and chalk it.  Stand (on the stool) so 
> that the fabric of the skirt brushes against the line.  Then slowly 
> rotate to mark the hem all around.

That's a cool idea for hemming by yourself!

My usual method requires two people. The dressed person stands on a phone
book. Arrange the skirt exactly as it should fall, meaning all the folds
fall straight down to the floor. Then, without pulling on the fabric, make
sharp chalk marks every few inches at the point where the fabric hits the
floor. The breaks are very noticeable, and the floor provides a good
backing to your chalk so you can make clear marks.

With a very full skirt, it's easiest to do the arranging and marking bit
by bit, moving the excess out of the way and making sure the part you're
marking is falling straight from the hipline. Mark, then move over a few
inches, redistribute, and mark again.

Have the person take off the dress. Spread out the hem, and connect the
marks with a smooth even line. The outliers should be obvious. Expect the
line to rise a little along any areas where you're on the bias, and lower
along the areas where you're on the straight grain, because the hang of
the skirt would have made some parts of the skirt stretch more. (And you
DID hang it for a day or two, right?)

If you want to be sure you're symmetrical from left side to right, fold
the dress along center front and center back so the sides are even. Lay
out flat. Pin, through both layers, on your marks on the side that's
facing up. Flip the entire thing over. Mark a line that's an average
between the pinned marks and the marks that are now visible. Note: This
does NOT work for people who have asymmetrical hips or shoulders, or
leg-length discrepancies.

If you're adding a train, sketch it in with the dress laid out as I just
described. Start expanding your hemline a bit forward of the side points.

Cut on your line. Then, if you want a dress that skims the floor, turn the
hem up the width of the telephone book. If you want one that brushes along
the floor, turn up less. And so on. If you want one that's higher than the
floor, you may not even need a phone book -- just mark where the fabric
hits, and turn up. Remember that with a springy fabric, the lack of weight
on the hem may cause it to hang a bit shorter after hemming, so compensate
accordingly.

This probably takes less time to do than it did for me to write it out.

--Robin

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Wendi Dunlap-Simpson <litlnemo@slumberland.seattle.wa.us>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] International Copyrights
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 21:49:13 -0700
Status: RO

At 10:51 PM +0100 9/15/02, N Kipar wrote:

>Well, I can only say what he said, but it might well be that he didn't quite
>understand my request/question. he certainly was rather astonished when I
>mentioned publications like Hannah Wooley's from 1677, held in the British
>Library.

Frequently the issue with museums is that their photographs and other 
reproductions of public domain work are copyrighted.

For example, all of Botticelli's paintings are well within the public 
domain. (In the US, for sure, and probably everywhere else as well.) 
But -- the museum owning one of the paintings can restrict 
photography, so that the only photographers currently allowed to 
photograph the painting work for the museum or otherwise sign their 
copyright over to the museum. Then the museum, by default, has 
copyright over all photographs of the artwork, which essentially 
removes the work from the public domain -- unless you can get another 
photo that is old enough to be public domain after all. The 
photographs are themselves considered to be creative works on their 
own merit, that just happen to include a public domain image.

In the US all works pre-1923 are public domain. Period. Some works 
post-1923 are as well, but it's harder to know -- they have to be 
works that were not renewed at a particular time under the old 
copyright law. It's a pain.

If you buy a copy of that 1677 publication at auction, you should be 
able to do anything you like with it since it is public domain. But 
if you are just using the British Library's copy, they can restrict 
you in any way they like for a variety of reasons. And if you are 
using images of it that they created recently, then they can 
copyright those images and restrict you that way.


-- 
-- Wendi

*-----------------------+---------------------------------------+-------*
  \ Wendi Dunlap-Simpson | litlnemo at slumberland.seattle.wa.us | dear /
  / Seattle, Wash., USA  | http://www.slumberland.seattle.wa.us  |  23  \
*--"Somehow everything will be a little different than you thought"-----*
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] International Copyrights
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 01:37:50 -0400
Status: RO

Hi Wendi,

My maiden name is Dunlap too!

This is how the museums make their money.  The Valentine Museum owns one of
the largest collections of the Civil War images.  When you look in a CW
book, look in the credits for a mention of the museum.   Also when you see
films and documentaries, they credit them.

Since the funding of the arts has been cut so much, this is their principal
source of income.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 07:19:00 +0100
Status: RO

Thanks

Mel
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 08:25:44 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Wendi Dunlap-Simpson <litlnemo@slumberland.seattle.wa.us> wrote: > 

Ah,k well, before I continue I should say that I have NO interest whatsoever in
anything having to do with commercial use of material, in whatever kind. I am
working at University and am only interested in the use of copyrighted material
in education i.e. lecture notes, accompanying slides, etc. and most of all
using the Learning & Teaching server that we have created and making lecture
notes, which include copyrighted material, accesible online (on an Intranet)
for students. The moment ANYthing is electronivally published completely
differen laws apply, at least in the UK and according to HERON project
http://www.heron.ac.uk/ I am also interested in using copyrighted (or expired?)
material for research, but that is again a different kettle of fish.

> photography, so that the only photographers currently allowed to 
> photograph the painting work for the museum or otherwise sign their 
> copyright over to the museum. Then the museum, by default, has 
> copyright over all photographs of the artwork, which essentially 
> removes the work from the public domain -- unless you can get another 
> photo that is old enough to be public domain after all. The 

Yes indeed, while museums like the V&A who allow photography only own the
photographs that their photographers take, but not ones that you and I take.
That's why they never allow a tripod or similar of course, to avoid
professional photography.

> If you buy a copy of that 1677 publication at auction, you should be 
> able to do anything you like with it since it is public domain. But 
> if you are just using the British Library's copy, they can restrict 
> you in any way they like for a variety of reasons. And if you are 
> using images of it that they created recently, then they can 
> copyright those images and restrict you that way.

Nah, not for my use, I use it for PhD research, and the documents that I sign
don't restrict that at all. After all, where would the world come to if
research were not allowed freely anymore!!!!!!!!

Nicole - who wishes dearly she could get one of the 17th c. books at an auction :-)

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 03:38:32 -0400
Status: RO

Welcome back Sue!!!!!!  I am so glad you had a good trip!!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 04:14:08 -0400
Status: RO

The new article that I mentioned previously is ready.  It is called "Late
Victorian Hair Care"
http://www.costumegallery.com/Delineator/Sept_1893/Hairstyles/hair1a.htm  It
was originally printed in an 1893 Delineator magazine.

This is a lengthy article and I strongly suggest printing it and reading at
your leisure.  Now at times the advice given is very funny... sometimes
bazaar.  Please remember that people all over the U.S., Canada, and France
read this magazine.  Please feel free to comment on it.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] International Copyrights
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 12:03:39 +0100
Status: RO

Copyright for commercial use & for private or scholarly use differs greatly.

Whilst the copyright laws exist to protect the copyright holder from
unauthorised use. But the copyright holder needs to sue to enforce such
rights, against the private individual using material for their own use, it
is unlikely to be worth it because the loss orf earnings from such
infringment is negligible.

Abuse on a commercial scale is more worthwhile , in terms of taking action,
but at the end of the day it will still be a commercial decision, there are
no copyright police as such it is a civil matter and therefore expensive.

Reasonably efforts are expected to locate copyright holder, if permission is
sought, most copyright holders of newer material can be found easily there
are a couple of web sites, an alternative is an advert in the National press
I understand.

Mel

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Subject: Re:  [h-cost] Re: CostumeCon21
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 12:03:07 +0000 (GMT)
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> It sounds fabulous! But why did you pick Easter weekend? I can't be
> the only one whose family expects her to be with the.! In my family,
> missing Easter is a crime. And I could actually get to Chicago, too!

Over here, Easter Weekend is when the British National SF 
Convention (EasterCon) is - it's a holiday weekend so people are 
more likely to be off-work and able to attend for the full time of the 
convention without having to take extra taime off work.... I assume 
it's a similar situation for Costume Con.

I guess the families of English SF fans either get used to not seeing 
them at Easter or go to the convention themselves...<G>

Teddy
(who will be missing EasterCon in order to be at Costume Con 
21... and Fandom is a far biggr "Family" groups than one's blood 
relations...<G>)
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 12:11:48 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> I was in Michael's yesterday and found a thread cutter ring ($6.95)
> and also a pendent thread cutter ($7.95). Both are made by Clover
> Manufacturing. Nice if you can't carry scissors on the plane.

But not much help when they won't let you take needles and pins 
either.... no pint in having something to cut your thread with if you 
don't have anything to sew with once it's cut.





Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Finished the Corded Corset c. 1820
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 12:14:39 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> I thought I sent this to the list yesterday evening, but it seems to
> have vanished.
> 
> I put together a blow-by-blow of my attempt of a corded corset
> c.1820.. so if you wish to read and view it.. you can find it at
> 
> http://www.seams-to-be.com/1820.htm
> I only ask that you be kind in your public comments... :D

Not my period, but it looks lovely.

Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hems (and pleats)
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 12:25:19 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> I am cartridge pleating a skirt for the very first time, and following
> a suggestion from Teddy ( no, it's not orange!), I'm putting a bead
> between each pleat. Looks good, so long as I don't run out of beads!

Oooh!  Are you doing the same at the sleeve-heads too?




Teddy
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hems (and pleats)
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 12:36:37 +0100
Status: RO

Sorry to seem stupid, but where exactly does the bead go, and what is its function?

Kate Bunting (who's planning to make a new skirt for reenactment over the winter)

>>> teddy1@mdx.ac.uk 09/16/02 01:25pm >>>

> I am cartridge pleating a skirt for the very first time, and following
> a suggestion from Teddy ( no, it's not orange!), I'm putting a bead
> between each pleat. Looks good, so long as I don't run out of beads!

Oooh!  Are you doing the same at the sleeve-heads too?




Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hems (and pleats)
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 07:40:53 -0400
Status: RO

Not the sleeve heads ( don't think I have enough beads, and the sleeveheads
are actually knife pleated), but I'm using pearl beads on  a metallic black
brocade fabric, and I think it's going to be scrummy! The sleeves and
forepart are a burgundy brocade that's been sitting around waiting for the
perfect project, and I only had 3 1/2 yards (got it at a JoAnn's closing
sale) so I had to be careful with it!

I may go looking for just the right beads for the forepart and sleeves
later, but I want this for East Kingdom Coronation, which is in less than
two weeks, so it'll have to wait!

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Teddy" <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, September 16, 2002 8:25 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hems (and pleats)


>
> > I am cartridge pleating a skirt for the very first time, and following
> > a suggestion from Teddy ( no, it's not orange!), I'm putting a bead
> > between each pleat. Looks good, so long as I don't run out of beads!
>
> Oooh!  Are you doing the same at the sleeve-heads too?
>
>
>
>
> Teddy
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Sep 16 08:12:23 2002
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From: Cascio Michael <rosenau5@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] MoL publications
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 04:54:03 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Morning guys,
      Now that I can find specific MoL publications
can anyone direct me to a  place that lists all their
publications so that I can browse?  I'd like a copy of
In Royal Fashion, the Princess Charlotte and Queen
Victoria exhibition catalog.  Mike T has suggested
seeing if I can find catalog for the London Bodies
exhibit.  Also, the MoL site doesn't seem to have a
secure server or a bookshop site so I can send them my
plastic to order books.  Plastic is so much easier as
I don't have access to an international bank and the
credit card people change the money for you.
     As to the yummy books recently listed on ebay
from tweedlebop...   Now I have to learn how to do
ebay :(
                               Cassandra (who is
beginning to really miss those pre-computer days when
researchers got kicked out of the library at midnight
so they could go home and sew)

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Sep 16 08:21:34 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Teddy Saxon Knot
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 13:02:34 +0100
Status: RO

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Probably way too late but if your friend still needs trim

http://www.calontirtrim.com/cgi-bin/dqryPublicOneTrimName.ASP?%5BRequestT=
rim%5D=3DSaxon+Knot

Mel

This e-mail, and any attachment, is confidential. If you have received
it in error, please delete it from your system, do not use or disclose
the information in any way, and notify me immediately. The contents of
this message may contain personal views which are not the views of the
Company, unless specifically stated.
Tel: +44 116 260 4442=20
Fax:  +44 116 260 1396=20

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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Probably way too late but if your =
friend still=20
needs trim</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://www.calontirtrim.com/cgi-bin/dqryPublicOneTrimName.ASP?%5B=
RequestTrim%5D=3DSaxon+Knot">http://www.calontirtrim.com/cgi-bin/dqryPubl=
icOneTrimName.ASP?%5BRequestTrim%5D=3DSaxon+Knot</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Mel</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>This e-mail, and any attachment, is=20
confidential. If you have received<BR>it in error, please delete it from =
your=20
system, do not use or disclose<BR>the information in any way, and notify =
me=20
immediately. The contents of<BR>this message may contain personal views =
which=20
are not the views of the<BR>Company, unless specifically stated.<BR>Tel: =
+44 116=20
260 4442 <BR>Fax:&nbsp; +44 116 260 1396 </FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 06:39:27 -0600
Status: RO

Somebody here did this for an ItalianRen....the beads go on the outside
of the skirt, in the little "ditch" of each cartridge pleat. Looks very
nice when you're doing several rows of threads for the pleats, although
I dunno that I've ever seen anything documenting the historical-ness of
it.
Has the double effect of being nicely decorative *and* covering any bits
of the gathering threads that might be showing on the outside.
--sue

Kate M Bunting wrote:
> 
> Sorry to seem stupid, but where exactly does the bead go, and what is its function?
> 
> Kate Bunting (who's planning to make a new skirt for reenactment over the winter)
> 
> >>> teddy1@mdx.ac.uk 09/16/02 01:25pm >>>
> 
> > I am cartridge pleating a skirt for the very first time, and following
> > a suggestion from Teddy ( no, it's not orange!), I'm putting a bead
> > between each pleat. Looks good, so long as I don't run out of beads!
> 
> Oooh!  Are you doing the same at the sleeve-heads too?
> 
> Teddy
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 06:35:37 -0600
Status: RO

I didn't have any problem at all with my needles, and I'd pre-cut my
threads for my blackwork.  Packed my scissors into my checked luggage.
When planning for my trip, I got very contradictory advice from folks,
so I double-checked the airline websites (nothing), and then went
through my travel agent. Sewing needles aren't actually *on* the
verboten list one way or the other.  So, apparently, it's up to the
individual scanner/security person.  She recommended that I make it
obvious it was for embroidery (left the needle in the embroidery).  Size
may also have played a part...I usually prefer a size 24 or 26 tapestry
needle for blackwork.
None of the security (and it was pretty thorough, coming back into the
U.S. on 9/12 !)even mentioned my embroidery or my needles, although I
did have a steady stream of old ladies on the flight home, stopping on
their way up/down the aisle to ask me what I was making!
--sue, gearing up for her first day back at work.....*sigh*

Teddy wrote:
> 
> > I was in Michael's yesterday and found a thread cutter ring ($6.95)
> > and also a pendent thread cutter ($7.95). Both are made by Clover
> > Manufacturing. Nice if you can't carry scissors on the plane.
> 
> But not much help when they won't let you take needles and pins
> either.... no pint in having something to cut your thread with if you
> don't have anything to sew with once it's cut.
> 
> Teddy
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 06:42:02 -0600
Status: RO

ROTFLMAO!
--sue

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> 
> VICTORIAN COLONIAL Costume LONG DRESS - SCA
> Item # 714386217
> 
> One dress for all your costuming needs!
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From: "Dianne and Greg Stucki" <goofy1@suscom.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hems (and pleats)
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 08:48:25 -0400
Status: RO

When I bring the thread to the outside as I make each gathering stitch, I
add a bead. Its only function is cause it's pretty! Since I'm using 3 rosw
of stitching, in between each pleat will be these three tiny beads just
peeking out.

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, September 16, 2002 7:36 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hems (and pleats)


> Sorry to seem stupid, but where exactly does the bead go, and what is its
function?
>
> Kate Bunting (who's planning to make a new skirt for reenactment over the
winter)
>
> >>> teddy1@mdx.ac.uk 09/16/02 01:25pm >>>
>
> > I am cartridge pleating a skirt for the very first time, and following
> > a suggestion from Teddy ( no, it's not orange!), I'm putting a bead
> > between each pleat. Looks good, so long as I don't run out of beads!
>
> Oooh!  Are you doing the same at the sleeve-heads too?
>
>
>
>
> Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hems (and pleats)
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 14:05:45 +0100
Status: RO

Oh, I see. Not really appropriate for an everyday middle-class skirt, then. I thought it must be some trick for making the pleats sit better.



Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> goofy1@suscom.net 09/16/02 01:48pm >>>
When I bring the thread to the outside as I make each gathering stitch, I
add a bead. Its only function is cause it's pretty! Since I'm using 3 rosw
of stitching, in between each pleat will be these three tiny beads just
peeking out.

Dianne


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FYI.
Ann

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">FYI.<BR>
Ann</FONT></HTML>

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hems (and pleats)
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 15:29:28 +0000 (GMT)
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> Not the sleeve heads ( don't think I have enough beads, and the
> sleeveheads are actually knife pleated), but I'm using pearl beads on 
> a metallic black brocade fabric, and I think it's going to be scrummy!
> The sleeves and forepart are a burgundy brocade that's been sitting
> around waiting for the perfect project, and I only had 3 1/2 yards
> (got it at a JoAnn's closing sale) so I had to be careful with it!
> 
> I may go looking for just the right beads for the forepart and sleeves
> later, but I want this for East Kingdom Coronation, which is in less
> than two weeks, so it'll have to wait!


Mmmmm.... Does sound scrummy.  Good lcuk with getting it 
finished in time.


Teddy
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Hems (and pleats)
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 15:26:56 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Sorry to seem stupid, but where exactly does the bead go, and what is
> its function?

It isn't period, that I know of, just pretty. The beads go between the 
pleats, strung on the threads that gather-in the cartridge pleats.
 
> Kate Bunting (who's planning to make a new skirt for reenactment
> over the winter) 

Ah.. the traditional past time of Making New Kit During The Off 
Season....<G>


Teddy
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From: Rebecca Wendelken <rwendelken@Methodist.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: rigid heddle
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 10:46:57 -0400
Status: RO

> Hi everyone,
>
> I'm trying to find out where I can get a rigid heddle like the one shown
in the Museum of London Textiles and Clothing book on page 25.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Colleen
>
This is going to sound odd, but I made my own out of popscicle sticks. Drill
a hole in the middle of several sticks and bind them together at the top and
bottom (leaving a narrow space between each) with some thin wooden slats.
It works great, costs less than a purchase and, after a bit of use, looks a
lot like the original.
Rebecca
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From: "Dianne and Greg Stucki" <goofy1@suscom.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hems (and pleats)
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 11:22:39 -0400
Status: RO

Probably not good for middle class, no. This is a wonderful black brocade I
got from my favorite eBay seller--it's some sort of acetate blend, so
historical accuracy is right out the window anyway, but oh, it's pretty.

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, September 16, 2002 9:05 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hems (and pleats)


> Oh, I see. Not really appropriate for an everyday middle-class skirt,
then. I thought it must be some trick for making the pleats sit better.
>
>
>
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
>
> >>> goofy1@suscom.net 09/16/02 01:48pm >>>
> When I bring the thread to the outside as I make each gathering stitch, I
> add a bead. Its only function is cause it's pretty! Since I'm using 3 rosw
> of stitching, in between each pleat will be these three tiny beads just
> peeking out.
>
> Dianne
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Sep 16 11:29:41 2002
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Subject: Re:  [h-cost] Re: CostumeCon21
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 10:33:13 -0500 (CDT)
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On Mon, 16 Sep 2002, Teddy wrote:

> Teddy
> (who will be missing EasterCon in order to be at Costume Con 
> 21... and Fandom is a far biggr "Family" groups than one's blood 
> relations...<G>)

I intend to be at CostumeCon too. Eventually Linda will tell me what I'm
going to talk about. ;-)

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK Interested in 'Plastic Whalebone' corset boning
	from Wissner?
From: sylvia <sylvia@ntw.net>
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 09:17:13 -0600
Status: RO

on 9/14/02 10:56 AM, Megan M. at mmchugh@starpower.net wrote:

> Does anyone in the US have some of the Wissner plastic whalebone to spare?
> I've used only the metal stuff so far, but have been intrigued by this
> stuff, but certainly don't need 200 meters of it just to try it out- just
> enough for a corset or two.  Maybe about 10 meters or so?
> -Megan
> 
>I got some samples of some plastic boning a few years ago from a company called
Endsdown Enterprises.  I don't know if this stuff is supposed to be the
plastic whalebone or something else (it definitely isn't Rigelene).  I can't
find a website for the company so I don't even know how I discovered them in
the first place, but they sent me quite an extensive amount of samples.

Is anyone familiar with this stuff?


Sylvia Rognstad
-- 
Divinity Designs and Emeralds
http://www.d-e-designs.com

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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 09:02:33 -0700
Status: RO



> Copyright for commercial use & for private or scholarly use differs greatly.

In the US _law_ doesn't differ a great deal--the limitations on "fair use" and
"educational use" are narrower than most people think.


>
>
> Whilst the copyright laws exist to protect the copyright holder from
> unauthorised use. But the copyright holder needs to sue to enforce such
> rights, against the private individual using material for their own use, it
> is unlikely to be worth it because the loss orf earnings from such
> infringment is negligible.
>

Here also, the copyright holder has to sue to enforce their rights, if they
can't come to an out-of-court agreement. However, I have been told by lawyers
not to count on thinking "I'm a private individual, I don't have much money
anyway, so no one will bother suing me."  Someone who sues you can go after all
the value of your personal assets--your house, your car, your furniture, any and
all of your personal possessions.  The value of all this can add up to much more
than you might think.

Fran


---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance


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From: sustre@pixelations.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hems (and pleats)
Cc: "Dianne and Greg Stucki" <goofy1@suscom.net>
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 12:12:59 -0400
Status: RO

At 7:40 AM -0400 9/16/02, Dianne and Greg Stucki wrote:
>Not the sleeve heads ( don't think I have enough beads, and the sleeveheads
>are actually knife pleated), but I'm using pearl beads on  a metallic black
>brocade fabric, and I think it's going to be scrummy! The sleeves and
>forepart are a burgundy brocade that's been sitting around waiting for the
>perfect project, and I only had 3 1/2 yards (got it at a JoAnn's closing
>sale) so I had to be careful with it!

It sounds lovely!

Are they real pearls? If so, think about using a man-made thread; 
real pearls are abrasive, and can wear their way through silk etc., 
or so I was told in a pearl-stringing class.

-Amanda
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hems (and pleats)
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 12:40:08 -0400
Status: RO

I may be finishing it in the car on the way there, but it'll be done!
Probably the only advantage to not knowing how to drive---I always hvae that
last little bit of time to finish a project while someone else drives!

Dianne
>
> Mmmmm.... Does sound scrummy.  Good lcuk with getting it
> finished in time.
>
>
> Teddy
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] International Copyrights
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 17:51:13 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote: > 

> anyway, so no one will bother suing me."  Someone who sues you can go after
> all
> the value of your personal assets--your house, your car, your furniture, any
> and
> all of your personal possessions.  The value of all this can add up to much
> more
> than you might think.

Yes, well, but I do have to say that I think the suer would be a rather sad
individual then.

Anyway, back to the original issue, even for a University and for pure
educational use, the moment it is being put on the web, no matter if intranet
or internet, it becomes a very tricky business and must be persued with utmost
care. That reminds me, got to put a presentation together for my faculty on
that. *groans* To make it costume-list related, I usually get permission for
copies of illustrations and books and articles from libraries, but because it
is THEIR copy despite the fact that the material itself is 300 years old, I am
allowed to use it for research but have to sign that I only use it for that.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Hems (and pleats)
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 17:55:08 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote: > 

> Ah.. the traditional past time of Making New Kit During The Off 
> Season....<G>

*ROTFLMAO* Oh, you mean the one that turns into
I-have-a-nervous-breakdown-coz-I-have-been-sewing-for-48-hours-straight 'jolly
good time' at around 2 a.m. on the night before the show, in the rain, in the
tent, under a gas lantern?

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: rigid heddle
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 18:23:39 +0100
Status: RO

I made mine from a flat piece of horn

Mel
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 18:31:19 +0100
Status: RO

>Yes, well, but I do have to say that I think the suer would be a rather sad
individual then.

Only sad in the thief was just copying for their own purposes & then they
would be likely to be laughed out of court !

If the individual was selling en masse , then their deserve it.

Mel
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 18:29:29 +0100
Status: RO

>However, I have been told by lawyers
not to count on thinking "I'm a private individual, I don't have much money
anyway, so no one will bother suing me."

I didn't actually mean that, if you are a private individual profiting out
of it  you don't get immunity for not being a company

> Someone who sues you can go after all
the value of your personal assets--your house, your car, your furniture, any
and
all of your personal possessions.  The value of all this can add up to much
more
than you might think.

Yes if the courts think it is that much the copyright holder has lost, but
say you took 1 copy of a book worth $10, the max damage caused to the
copyrightholder is $10, which is not worth going to court for, in the
opinions on lawyers I've heard express an opinion here.

If however, you took 1000 copies of that book you would be liabal for the
monies lost plus possible damage to the company for , say, providing a poor
copy & hence damaging their good name.

Personally I prefer to own the real item where possible and am definatly
opposed to copyright theft

Mel


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From: kat@grendal.rain.com
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 10:32:28 -0700
Status: RO

Nicole wrote:
>  --- Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote: > 
> > anyway, so no one will bother suing me."  Someone who sues you can
> > go after all the value of your personal assets--your house, your
> > car, your furniture, any and all of your personal possessions.  The
> > value of all this can add up to much more than you might think.
> 
> Yes, well, but I do have to say that I think the suer would be a
> rather sad individual then.

I think it depends on the point of view. The reason why copyright 
holders start going after even the "little guy" is because if they 
*don't* they may lose their rights even with the "big guys." It 
usually isn't a "money" thing but rather "I've got to nip this in the 
bud. I need to make sure that no one steals my property and the only 
way I see to do that is to go after this small group/person who is 
blatant."

You see, in court they may look at how many places you have allowed 
it to go on. If the court sees that it is plastered all over the Web 
and you've done nothing about it, then they are going to say "too 
bad. We have to treat this corporation the same way you treated all 
those others."

Generally it won't get to court with the "little guy". It is usually 
enough to write to them and ask them to remove the material or to 
make recompense for using your images in their newsletters. However, 
sometimes people ignore such a request. So the next step is to ask a 
lawyer to it for you. If they ignore that, then you go to court.

Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Sep 16 13:47:41 2002
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 10:43:57 -0700
Status: RO

> Yes if the courts think it is that much the copyright holder has lost,
> but say you took 1 copy of a book worth $10, the max damage caused to
> the copyrightholder is $10, which is not worth going to court for, in
> the opinions on lawyers I've heard express an opinion here.
> 
> If however, you took 1000 copies of that book you would be liabal for
> the monies lost plus possible damage to the company for , say,
> providing a poor copy & hence damaging their good name.

That's where "fair use" comes in. If someone is using it for their 
own personal use, it is not likely it would come to the attention of 
the owner. However, usually it is quite blatant (using it in a 
newsletter or on a web site) that gets you into trouble. 

Or if it can be shown that you are sharing it (additional copies) or 
otherwise depriving them of income (because they don't have to come 
to the source.)

Many self published books are *not* cheap. I recently got a 
legitimate copy of a book (which would not have degraded with 
photocopying because it was mostly text or simple diagrams) that cost 
me $70US. It would have cost me about $5US to copy. That's a pretty 
big jump, not the "$10" which one might think it was really worth.

> Personally I prefer to own the real item where possible and am
> definatly opposed to copyright theft

Amen to that! Back in the era when the University copycenter would 
photocopy entire books for someone (even if they didn't go to the 
University but had library privileges), I got several costume and 
textile books this way. But over the years it has been my "geas" to 
make sure that as soon as I could afford an original of the book (or 
find it in some cases), I would get the original. I don't have many 
of the photocopies left anymore. ;)

Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] International Copyrights
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 18:50:43 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com> wrote: > >Yes, well, but I do
have to say that I think the suer would be a rather sad
> individual then.
> 
> Only sad in the thief was just copying for their own purposes & then they
> would be likely to be laughed out of court !

That's what I meant of course! 
I can't quite imagine how an individual manages to make 1000 copies and try to
sell them off, what crooked stupidity that would be.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 18:54:56 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

Wheehee, we are back to the good old copyright discussion! May I take bets when
it starts getting out of hands?

nah, seriously, I am sure we all understand and respect copyright and thus
should stop here and now before we are back to the usual eruption on this very
same topic. It isn't even about historical costumes and I am sure there are
tons of emails (many not too pleasant) in the archives about this pet topic.

Nicole - responsible partly for copyright clearance in her Faculty.

 --- kat@grendal.rain.com wrote: > Nicole wrote:

> Generally it won't get to court with the "little guy". It is usually 
> enough to write to them and ask them to remove the material or to 
> make recompense for using your images in their newsletters. However, 
> sometimes people ignore such a request. So the next step is to ask a 
> lawyer to it for you. If they ignore that, then you go to court.
> 
> Kat Russell
> <kat@grendal.rain.com>



=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 19:03:55 +0100
Status: RO

>Many self published books are *not* cheap. I recently got a
legitimate copy of a book (which would not have degraded with
photocopying because it was mostly text or simple diagrams) that cost
me $70US. It would have cost me about $5US to copy. That's a pretty
big jump, not the "$10" which one might think it was really worth.

Which is why electronic publishing should be used IMHO on really small runs.

>I could afford an original of the book (or
find it in some cases),

Which is where copyright gets a bit weird to me as once it is out of print
you are no longer depriving the copyright holder directly, esp if it will
NEVER be reprinted & the greater good is not them served. I'd be happy to
copy & send a fee to the holder myself then everyone is happy

Mel
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 19:04:43 +0100
Status: RO

>I can't quite imagine how an individual manages to make 1000 copies and try
to
sell them off, what crooked stupidity that would be.

Videos & Cds are more subject to this that printed stuiff I think :)

Mel

This e-mail, and any attachment, is confidential. If you have received
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 19:05:47 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

I wondered if anyone here knows (though perhaps I should ask on a vintage
list?) I got all the missing original bits from the nice curator (re-enactor
too :-) of the Red Cross museum for my 1950s nurse uniform and am ready to go,
so to speak, but would like to get everything together including the proper
underwear and stockings. I don't have a clue what women wore in the 1950s, does
anyone know of a place to find out or ask? I had a look on the net but couldn't
find much.
Thanks!

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@nyc.rr.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] UK Interested in 'Plastic Whalebone' corset boningfrom Wissner?
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 14:08:49 -0300
Status: RO

I'm extremely fond of the German plastic boning.  I've gotten mine from
Farthingales in Canada.  Talk to the owner Linda Sparks and ask her about
Wissner.  I think she carriers another brand because she thinks it's better.
I certainly like the stuff she sells.


http://www.farthingales.on.ca/bones.php

Martha



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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 11:14:23 -0700
Status: RO

>
>
> Yes if the courts think it is that much the copyright holder has lost, but
> say you took 1 copy of a book worth $10, the max damage caused to the
> copyrightholder is $10, which is not worth going to court for, in the
> opinions on lawyers I've heard express an opinion here.

In the US, at least, the amount that can be sued for is seldom as low as the
unit cost of the book or other work.  The amount counts potential sales lost due
to unauthorized distribution of the work, and this applies whether the
unauthorized person is charging for it or not.  If you post a $10 book on the
web without permission, the amount lost to the author and publisher would be far
in excess of $10.  The person suing also usually tries to get the court to award
them the legal costs for the suit (that is, the loser pays legal expenses, court
costs, etc, for the winner).



>
> If however, you took 1000 copies of that book you would be liabal for the
> monies lost plus possible damage to the company for , say, providing a poor
> copy & hence damaging their good name.

See above.   The legal issue here is not stealing physical copies of the book,
it's interfering with the publisher's potential sales of same.  The issue is
intellectual property, not physical property,


>
>
> Personally I prefer to own the real item where possible and am definatly
> opposed to copyright theft

Great!

Fran

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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 11:32:46 -0700
Status: RO



> >Many self published books are *not* cheap. I recently got a
> legitimate copy of a book (which would not have degraded with
> photocopying because it was mostly text or simple diagrams) that cost
> me $70US. It would have cost me about $5US to copy. That's a pretty
> big jump, not the "$10" which one might think it was really worth.

Costs for an elaborate  print book such as most costume books run into tens of
thousands of dollars _per book_.  They are by no means limited to what is paid
to the printer. They include royalties or other payments to the author and any
illustrators; editing; indexing; scanning or other rendering of the
illustrations for production; book and cover design; page layout; proofreading;
equipment such as computers, laser printers, and scanners; office rent;
warehouse rent; publicity; marketing; and miscellaneous fees for proofs,
copyright registration, etc.  All these are very real and necessary costs.

And most of them, BTW, pertain to electronic books as well as print books.


>
>
> Which is why electronic publishing should be used IMHO on really small runs.

The problem with e-books (at least currently)  is that there's no market for
them (most readers don't really want them), no distribution system (most
retailers don't want them), and no respect for them (most reviewers won't review
them).   They're not cheap to publish if they don't sell.  Many publishers would
love to switch to producing e-books; but various publishers' attempts to do so
have been far from encouraging.

Much the same problems currently apply to print on demand.  Print on demand has
a significantly higher unit cost than offset printing (therefore higher cover
prices are charged to the consumer), and the quality is lower. And since it
actually takes a long time to get the books ("on demand" is a misnomer), most
retailers refuse to carry POD books.


>
>
> >I could afford an original of the book (or
> find it in some cases),
>
> Which is where copyright gets a bit weird to me as once it is out of print
> you are no longer depriving the copyright holder directly, esp if it will
> NEVER be reprinted & the greater good is not them served. I'd be happy to
> copy & send a fee to the holder myself then everyone is happy

You will never know if the work will _NEVER_ be reprinted.  In many cases it is,
it's just not around when you are looking for it.  The greater good is served
when the work goes into the public domain.  Before that, it is the copyright
holder's privilege to hold a monopoly on producing/copying it and benefit from
that as they are able.

As for copying and sending a fee, that is a request you can always make of the
copyright holder.


>

Fran

> Mel

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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 11:35:59 -0700
Status: RO

>
>
> I think it depends on the point of view. The reason why copyright
> holders start going after even the "little guy" is because if they
> *don't* they may lose their rights even with the "big guys." It
> usually isn't a "money" thing but rather "I've got to nip this in the
> bud. I need to make sure that no one steals my property and the only
> way I see to do that is to go after this small group/person who is
> blatant."
>
> You see, in court they may look at how many places you have allowed
> it to go on. If the court sees that it is plastered all over the Web
> and you've done nothing about it, then they are going to say "too
> bad. We have to treat this corporation the same way you treated all
> those others."
>
> Generally it won't get to court with the "little guy". It is usually
> enough to write to them and ask them to remove the material or to
> make recompense for using your images in their newsletters. However,
> sometimes people ignore such a request. So the next step is to ask a
> lawyer to it for you. If they ignore that, then you go to court.
>

Most Internet service provider agreements stipulate that the user not
violate copyright.  I've been told by several people who did this that, if
the web site owner refuses to remove the material,  you can usually  get
their ISP to block access to their page until they do.

Fran


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] International Copyrights
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 11:43:28 -0700
Status: RO

I won't reveal their locations, but there are several electronic arenas where
people upload entire copyrighted books in electronic format, without
permission.  Like, several books are uploaded to each arena  _every day_ (each
in a whole bunch of files, per chapter or whatever).  Also magazines, comics,
and other printed matter.

People go to some trouble to conceal their real IDs (they know this is illegal),
and post from anonymous email services.  They justify this by asserting that
authors and artists don't deserve to get paid. Really.

Fran

Melanie Wilson wrote:

> >I can't quite imagine how an individual manages to make 1000 copies and try
> to
> sell them off, what crooked stupidity that would be.
>
> Videos & Cds are more subject to this that printed stuiff I think :)
>
> Mel
>
> This e-mail, and any attachment, is confidential. If you have received
> it in error, please delete it from your system, do not use or disclose
> the information in any way, and notify me immediately. The contents of
> this message may contain personal views which are not the views of the
> Company, unless specifically stated.
>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Sep 16 14:43:47 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hems (and pleats)
References: <20020916121403.28233.7692.Mailman@net.indra.com>
 <120F9C57C0C@mdx-rf-s1.nw.mdx.ac.uk>
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 19:42:53 +0100
Status: RO

Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote
>
>> Sorry to seem stupid, but where exactly does the bead go, and what is
>> its function?
>
>It isn't period, that I know of, just pretty. The beads go between the
>pleats, strung on the threads that gather-in the cartridge pleats.
>
>> Kate Bunting (who's planning to make a new skirt for reenactment
>> over the winter)
>
>Ah.. the traditional past time of Making New Kit During The Off
>Season....<G>
>
>
>Teddy

May I brag?  We have today finished a new pair of hose for himself 
(banded hose for Hastings) - and our season isn't even over yet!  And 
I've done all the mending and started on the new kit too.

Bets on this industriousness lasting out September?

Jean

-- 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1950s underwear?
From: sylvia <sylvia@ntw.net>
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 12:39:46 -0600
Status: RO

on 9/16/02 12:05 PM, N Kipar at nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com wrote:

> I wondered if anyone here knows (though perhaps I should ask on a vintage
> list?) I got all the missing original bits from the nice curator (re-enactor
> too :-) of the Red Cross museum for my 1950s nurse uniform and am ready to go,
> so to speak, but would like to get everything together including the proper
> underwear and stockings. I don't have a clue what women wore in the 1950s,
> does
> anyone know of a place to find out or ask? I had a look on the net but
> couldn't
> find much.

Hate to admit I'm old enough to remember, at least to remember what my
mother wore, although she wasn't a nurse.  Girdles, girdles, girdles!  And
they were made of rubber with little holes in them and no crotch, so she
wore panties under them.  Stockings, not panty hose.  And those cone shaped
bras.

Sylvia

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Sep 16 14:58:50 2002
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1950s underwear?
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 14:00:37 -0500
Status: RO

Bra (pointy cups)
Panties
Full slip
Girdle with garters attached to hold up your
Nylon stockings

This site has a good picture:

http://www.geocities.com/~girdlezone/contents.htm

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of N Kipar
Sent: Monday, September 16, 2002 1:06 PM
To: H-Costume
Subject: [h-cost] 1950s underwear?

I wondered if anyone here knows (though perhaps I should ask on a
vintage
list?) I got all the missing original bits from the nice curator
(re-enactor
too :-) of the Red Cross museum for my 1950s nurse uniform and am ready
to go,
so to speak, but would like to get everything together including the
proper
underwear and stockings. I don't have a clue what women wore in the
1950s, does
anyone know of a place to find out or ask? I had a look on the net but
couldn't
find much.
Thanks!

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Sep 16 15:23:48 2002
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 15:18:01 -0400
Status: RO

        Ok kiddies, this old lady was adult and working (not as a nurse)
in the fifties.  Actually, I was a Grey Lady, does that count?  Anyhow
underwear was much the same as now except that the bras were pretty
pointy, but you could get some that weren't.  Full slips were in fashion,
but if you didn't need coverage on top, a half slip was acceptable (as
when you were wearing a vest or jacket over a blouse).  Not everyone wore
girdles.  I did own a panty girdle, but rarely wore it.  I had a garter
belt to hold up my stockings.  Stockings were nylon with seams up the
back.  Nurses wore the white nylons with seams up the back.  They did
make your legs look great but were a major nuisance as they didn't always
stay straight.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hems (and pleats)
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 20:46:41 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote: > 

> May I brag?  We have today finished a new pair of hose for himself 
> (banded hose for Hastings) - and our season isn't even over yet!  And 
> I've done all the mending and started on the new kit too.

Shocking!!! *laughs*
Okay, so I am still working on roll hemming His Nib's new fine linen cravat.
Thanks to kat I know how to roll hem now, but Kat, I am still slow and I still
don't like it. ;-)

> Bets on this industriousness lasting out September?

Okay.... a packet of German chokki biccies that it doesn't?

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 15:50:34 -0300
Status: RO

If you have time to go to a library, look at a Sears catalogue from the year
you're recreating.  They always had pages and pages of underwear.
Martha

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1950s underwear?
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 13:15:45 -0700
Status: RO


>I wondered if anyone here knows (though perhaps I should ask on a vintage
>list?) I got all the missing original bits from the nice curator (re-enactor
>too :-) of the Red Cross museum for my 1950s nurse uniform and am ready to go,
>so to speak, but would like to get everything together including the proper
>underwear and stockings. I don't have a clue what women wore in the 1950s, 
>does
>anyone know of a place to find out or ask? I had a look on the net but 
>couldn't
>find much.
>Thanks!

In America anyway: separate stockings (with seams) and either a garter belt 
or garters on a girdle, waist-high underpants, and a very solid bra.  In 
the 1950s, my grandmother who was born in 1880 (she was 70 in 1950) still 
wore a 1930s-ish corset-thing consisting of bra and girdle in one 
piece.  You could still get these from like a Sears catalog.  I never saw 
my mother (she was 26 in 1950) wear a girdle, and she didn't wear stockings 
a lot in 1950, preferring bobby sox (ankle-high) and Oxfords.  She 
graduated from college, with my GI-Bill father, in 1949.


Kayta

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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 20:44:04 +0000
Status: RO

A friend of mine flew from Texas to Maine in August and she was able to get 
sewing needles on her flight. She put two or three of them into the lining 
of her wallet and put the hem into two sleeves while on the plane - no 
problem. Similarly, my mother talked to someone when she was on a trip to 
St. Louis who said she takes knitting needles on her trip - she specified 
the particular brand, but my mother and I are speculating the plastic 
(nylon) needles would pass through security.

Mary/Katerine
(who has carried syringes on flights and not once has it been questioned.)

> > I was in Michael's yesterday and found a thread cutter ring ($6.95)
> > and also a pendent thread cutter ($7.95). Both are made by Clover
> > Manufacturing. Nice if you can't carry scissors on the plane.
>
>But not much help when they won't let you take needles and pins
>either.... no pint in having something to cut your thread with if you
>don't have anything to sew with once it's cut.
>
>
>
>Teddy


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Subject: [h-cost] I think there is an essential flaw in my cunning plan for an Elizabethian
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 17:01:39 -0400
Status: RO

Well, maybe not a flaw, but definately a complication.
To recap, I want to make a gathered kirtle out of linen, to be worn under a loose gown made out of wool.
Then, last month, just as I was preparing to draft the patterns...I found out that I am pregnant.  Now I'm quite happy about the pregnancy but it does rather complicate matters wrt the sewing :)

Since at nine weeks I'm already starting to show, I figure that I'm going to get pretty huge, and I want this to be a outfit that I can wear for most of my pregnancy.

My plan right now is to do the following.  I will add several inches (I'm thinking around 4) to all of the seams of the kirtle  I will then sew all of the seams 3 times, so that as I expand the kirtle can expand with me.  I will do the same thing to the gown.  
However, I'm not quite sure if this will be enough room for expansion, or for that matter if I am underestimating the ability of a kirtle and/or a gown to expand.

thanks,
Katie
---
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undress me... And then a sudden need for cheese. 



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Non-scissor alternatives
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 17:19:54 -0400
Status: RO

Quoting Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>:

<snip>
> 
> But not much help when they won't let you take needles and pins 
> either.... no pint in having something to cut your thread with if you 
> don't have anything to sew with once it's cut.
> 

They let me on with sewing needles a couple of weekends ago -- I did have to 
put my pointed embroidery scissors in my checked bag, however. I continued to 
embroider though - I cut a couple of lengths of floss before packing my 
scissors, and just used them on the flight. 

Of course this was in the US - your experience in GB may be different....

Melanie
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 17:31:02 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

WHat book are you refering to Mel?  If it's costume
related you could share :)
                      Cassandra

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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 19:01:01 -0600
Status: RO

If you get to brag, Jean, do we get to hate you? <weg>
--Sue, who looks forward to long, dark Montana winters to keep her
inside and focused on sewing...and embroidery....and sewing....and
embroidery..;-)

Jean Waddie wrote:
> 

> May I brag?  We have today finished a new pair of hose for himself
> (banded hose for Hastings) - and our season isn't even over yet!  And
> I've done all the mending and started on the new kit too.
> 
> Bets on this industriousness lasting out September?
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Sep 16 21:26:26 2002
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 21:16:57 -0400
Status: RO

Hi, All. Nicole, there are a number of reenactment units out there doing WWII, and
I don't think the Korean era stuff was that different. Since the Red Cross is a
civilian entity, I would assume that the stuff worn underneath was civilian. I seem
to remember one of the photo-illustrated books on reenactment stuff (Brassey's or
the Color Photograph series) that had pictures of Women's uniforms, etc. You could
probably search old catalogs for images of 50s underthings. Here in the US we had
Sears and Montgomery Ward as two large catalog companies with illustrated catalogs.
I don't know if Britain had an equivalent at the time. Good Luck, Mike T.



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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 13:28:37 +1200
Status: RO

This has been quite fun, as recently people have been asking how to get
their hair to grow long. And a lot of the myths in this article *still*
pursist:

"If the hair is wayward, much may be done by persistent brushing to train it
in the desired direction."
Sorry, but hair grows from the root *under* the skin.. you're more likey to
break the hair with the force needed to alter the direction of the root;)
(you can change the shape of a bone in 7 years don't know about other
tissues... ) and any straightening you get will be undone as soon as the
hair gets wet again.

"The hair should not be washed or shampooed oftener than once a month,
unless it is expose to much dust; but it should be loosely arranged for an
hour or two everyday to allow a free circulation of air to the roots."
There is no right or wrong amount of washing or cleaning hair needs.
Everyone has different properties of hair.. and it can change over a
lifetime anyway. I used to need to wash mine every two days due to over
active oil production (and that affected my face as well, so it wasn't
because I stripped the oils away). Now it's every 4 days or so. I don't
count any more. I suppose it could be in the interests of scientific
research;)

And the quote mimics very stronly what was in the hair care article of my
Girls Own Annual.. which I belive you link to somewhere Penny?
http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com/titanic it's there somewhere...


"Nature knows what she is about, and, unless thwarted by our own or our
ancestor's misconduct, provides us with hair that harmonizes with our
complexion, features and age"
Whoa.. what are they trying to say here? *Misconduct??? And nature doesn't
play by our aesthetics.. some complextions and hair colour do tend to go
hand in hand due to gentic and environmental factors.. but it's not because
they look good;)

"We are told by some authorities that if the divided ends of the hair are
singed off instead of cut, the growth will become more vigorous and
abundant; while others declare that heat appIied even at the tips of the
tresses is a serious detriment, because it wounds, shocks and, perhaps,
mortally injures the hair. "
Well what ever you do to the ends has absolutely no effect on growth of
hair. It's a shaft of non living protein (though if it was living it
wouldn't necessarily hurt to cut as suggested elsewhere, you need nerve
cells to feel pain). It's just going to affect the ends.

Most of the rest is pretty sound advice, massaging does help, not keeping
hair in tight styles will stop you from breaking the hair, and pulling it
from the roots (happens a lot in those braided extensions). Even pulling
hair fromt he root though won't actually stop the hair from growing, it'll
just take a long time to get grow a hair back to the normal length;)

It's been very fun reading this in light on my own recent reading on hair
myths and facts:)

michaela

http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce
http://recital.tripod.com/costume



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Sep 16 21:58:37 2002
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 20:05:12 -0600
Status: RO

Oddly enough, I have a *whole* bunch of wool yarn that did something
similar after it was mordanted and dyed.  It started life as a 2-ply,
off-white wool yarn about the thickness of your average modern crewel
wool.  After its first immersion in hot water, one of the plies shrank
enormously (30%?), and the other stayed the same.  Further immersion in
hot water/dye baths did not alter this.  It looks very...peculiar, as if
one of the plies were much more tightly spun than the other (not at all
noticeable in the original state).
Because of my travels, I haven't yet had a chance to go back to the
store where I purchased the yarn, and ask if this is a deliberate
effect.  I'd intended to use it for embroidery, but it doesn't look like
it'd work for what I want, now.  I may try to knit up a bit to see what
I get.  I may also buy a bit more of it, knit that, and then wash it to
see what happens.
--sue, catching up on old emails

Robin Netherton wrote:
> 

> So, I'm wondering if any of the wool experts on this list have any
> suggestions on how I might salvage these pieces. The chief problem I have
> is when the wool seems to be shrinking or pulling unevenly. I'm used to
> seeing the body of the fabric shrink more than the selvedges (which end up
> rippling a bit), but the problem comes when the effect seems to happen all
> over, unevenly. I'm not getting a lot of pilling, and the color is fine.
> It's just the weave is rippling or pulling irregularly all over. I also
> sometimes get a rough surface (on worsteds) or a crepey one (on woolens),
> even when the original was very smooth. Ironing doesn't help.
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Sep 16 22:57:40 2002
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From: "Megan M." <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] UK Interested in 'Plastic Whalebone' corset boningfrom Wissner?
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 23:08:40 -0400
Status: RO

Are you referring to the plastic whalebone or the German Plastic boning?  If
it is the german plastic stuff that looks a bit like rigilene, how does it
compare to steel bones?  What width did you use?  What do you all recommend,
as laying out $100 for boning I've never seen is a bit much?
-Megan

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Martha Kelly
Sent: Monday, September 16, 2002 1:09 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] UK Interested in 'Plastic Whalebone' corset
boningfrom Wissner?


I'm extremely fond of the German plastic boning.  I've gotten mine from
Farthingales in Canada.  Talk to the owner Linda Sparks and ask her about
Wissner.  I think she carriers another brand because she thinks it's better.
I certainly like the stuff she sells.


http://www.farthingales.on.ca/bones.php

Martha



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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 23:21:39 -0400
Status: RO

Michaela,

I just won two auctions, one is about personal care for 1911, including hair
care, and another book from a hairdressers school for 1934.  I can't wait to
read them and see if there is a change in attitude.

The things I found funny in the article was the concern for baldness in men
and women, and dandruff.  I thought, well washing your hair in borax might
make your hair thinner!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com



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Subject: [h-cost] Leine info online?
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 23:38:43 -0400
Status: RO

I'm frantically sewing some tunics (Herjolfernes based) for an event 
in a couple of weeks, but my Irish-Brit husband would appreciate an 
Irish option, I think. I remember there was an excellent article in 
Tournaments Illuminated several years ago on a more-authentic leine, 
and I carefully set that issue aside because I wanted to make one for 
him- and have never seen it since. (And yes, I've cleaned the house 
in the meantime! <g>)

Does anyone know if there's a copy of that article online somewhere? 
IIRC, the author was hoping at one point to put it up...

Thanks in advance,
Amanda
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] what book Mel?
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 07:31:28 +0100
Status: RO

>WHat book are you refering to Mel?  If it's costume
related you could share :)
                      

Sorry under what subject ?

Mel

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] International Copyrights
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 07:43:35 +0100
Status: RO

>Costs for an elaborate  print book such as most costume books run into tens
of
thousands of dollars _per book_.

I know this I used to be in prining :)

However 1 copy does not directly cost 1000s . Not court in the Uk (I hope)
would ever set all pre production cost etc on someone pirating a single copy
it would be unjust.

And yes in more elabortate cases of books e copies are as expensive. But not
in acedemic reports such as archaeological digs etc, the print costs push
the work into the unaffordable by many, wheras the CD & print off your own
as you desired would be . The work has to be done either way in most cases
under the remit of the acedemic institute funding or more commonlyt here
these days the developer.

>The problem with e-books (at least currently)  is that there's no market
for
them (most readers don't really want them), no distribution system (most
retailers don't want them), and no respect for them (most reviewers won't
review
them).   They're not cheap to publish if they don't sell.  Many publishers
would
love to switch to producing e-books; but various publishers' attempts to do
so
have been far from encouraging.

Yes most people prefer the tactile experiance of a real book I agree. I'm
talking more of specilised stuff, that won't get to a large audience any
other way. See above. Pre production is about the same agreed, but a CD even
on a short run is less that $1, no book can be printed for that unless in
really big quantities.

>Much the same problems currently apply to print on demand.  Print on demand
has
a significantly higher unit cost than offset printing (therefore higher
cover
prices are charged to the consumer), and the quality is lower.

Shouldn't do print on demand here is very high quality & fast & cheaper than
offset. Many acedemic reports are going that way here.

>You will never know if the work will _NEVER_ be reprinted.  In many cases
it is,
it's just not around when you are looking for it.

No there are 99% of printed books ever printed, are out of print, most of
these will catagorically never be printed again. Ok maybe I can't guess
which maybe. But in the meantime it is the person hungry for knowledge that
suffers, most of the authors are long dead & don't care.

>As for copying and sending a fee, that is a request you can always make of
the
copyright holder.

Assuming you can find them or their offspring, which is by no means easy.

Mel

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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 07:45:52 +0100
Status: RO

>They justify this by asserting that
authors and artists don't deserve to get paid. Really.

As I said this is theft & I don't agree with theft :) 

Mel

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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 07:49:30 +0100
Status: RO

>In the US, at least, the amount that can be sued for is seldom as low as
the
unit cost of the book or other work.  The amount counts potential sales lost
due
to unauthorized distribution of the work, and this applies whether the
unauthorized person is charging for it or not.  If you post a $10 book on
the
web without permission, the amount lost to the author and publisher would be
far
in excess of $10.

See what I said later. I though I had stated that the $10 scenario refered
to a person doing 1 copy for their own use. I then went on to say if you
were selling commerically the situation differed.

Mel


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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 08:03:58 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Katie Lewis <katie_lewis@lycos.com> wrote: > Well, maybe not a flaw, but
definately a complication.
> To recap, I want to make a gathered kirtle out of linen, to be worn under a
> loose gown made out of wool.
> Then, last month, just as I was preparing to draft the patterns...I found out
> that I am pregnant.  Now I'm quite happy about the pregnancy but it does
> rather complicate matters wrt the sewing :)

First of all congratulations!
second, I have NO experience with being pregnant, so caveat emptor here.
Third, did you see the wonderful Ropa that one of the ladies from I think
Bristol fair made? I think she is on Margo's patern list, and she looked SUPERB
in it when she went to the fair TWO weeks before she was due. I am just
wondering, perhaps of you went for something completely different this time,
for a ropa, then you wouldn't have to worry, and just make the kirtle gown
after the baby is born?

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Teddy Saxon Knot
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 09:01:10 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> Probably way too late but if your friend still needs trim
> 
> http://www.calontirtrim.com/cgi-
> bin/dqryPublicOneTrimName.ASP?%5BRequestT=
> rim%5D=3DSaxon+Knot

Thanks Mel,  I've passed it on to them anyway, just in case they 
haven't got that far yet or want it to trim another costume.  




Teddy
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 09:04:47 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> I didn't have any problem at all with my needles, and I'd pre-cut
> my threads for my blackwork.  Packed my scissors into my checked
> luggage. When planning for my trip, I got very contradictory advice
> from folks, so I double-checked the airline websites (nothing), and
> then went through my travel agent. Sewing needles aren't actually
> *on* the verboten list one way or the other.  So, apparently, it's
> up to the individual scanner/security person.  She recommended that
> I make it obvious it was for embroidery (left the needle in the
> embroidery). Size may also have played a part...I usually prefer a
> size 24 or 26 tapestry needle for blackwork. None of the security
> (and it was pretty thorough, coming back into the U.S. on 9/12
> !)even mentioned my embroidery or my needles, although I did have a
> steady stream of old ladies on the flight home, stopping on their
> way up/down the aisle to ask me what I was making! --sue, gearing
> up for her first day back at work.....*sigh* 

Perhaps I will be able to use the flight to Chicago to worn on my 
costumes for Costume Con then!  Thanks Sue.   Glad you had a 
good visit overhere.

Teddy
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Subject: Re:  [h-cost] Re: CostumeCon21
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 09:09:37 +0000 (GMT)
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> I intend to be at CostumeCon too. Eventually Linda will tell me what
> I'm going to talk about. ;-)

I just hope it doesn't clash with anything I'm doing.... Karen, see to it 
will you, please?....<GGGG>


Teddy
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 09:12:46 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> > Ah.. the traditional past time of Making New Kit During The Off
> > Season....<G>
> 
> *ROTFLMAO* Oh, you mean the one that turns into
> I-have-a-nervous-breakdown-coz-I-have-been-sewing-for-48-hours-straigh
> t 'jolly good time' at around 2 a.m. on the night before the show, in
> the rain, in the tent, under a gas lantern?

That's the one - it's amazing how having the entire off-season to 
get somethign done can suddenly transmogrify into an all-nighter 
just before you need it ready to wear!



Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Off-Season projects (WAS: Hems (and pleats))
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 09:16:43 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO


> >Ah.. the traditional past time of Making New Kit During The Off
> >Season....<G>
> 
> May I brag?  We have today finished a new pair of hose for himself
> (banded hose for Hastings) - and our season isn't even over yet! 
> And I've done all the mending and started on the new kit too. 

<impressed> I bow to your industriousness!
 
> Bets on this industriousness lasting out September?

Let us know if you do - perhaps you'll be in for some award!
 

Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1950s underwear?
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 09:19:52 +0100
Status: RO

Kayta wrote:

>In America anyway: separate stockings (with seams) and either a garter >belt or garters on a girdle, waist-high underpants, and a very solid bra.  In 
>the 1950s, my grandmother who was born in 1880 (she was 70 in 1950) >still wore a 1930s-ish corset-thing consisting of bra and girdle in one 
>piece.  You could still get these from like a Sears catalog.  I never saw 
>my mother (she was 26 in 1950) wear a girdle, and she didn't wear >stockings a lot in 1950, preferring bobby sox (ankle-high) and Oxfords.  

Translating into British terminology:
Garter belt = suspender belt
Underpants = knickers (they were usually cotton with elastic threaded through a casing at the waist, which occasionally broke, resulting in jokes about women's knickers falling down.)

I was a child in the 50s. My mother didn't wear a girdle either, being as skinny as I am now, or even a bra most of the time; just a vest (?undershirt to Americans) of knitted cotton or fine wool.

Lalah mentioned white nylons; I think British nurses traditionally wore black stockings.


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From: Deredere & Owen Iskander <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
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Subject: [h-cost] "Need help with Country and western dress" Thanks!
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 10:49:34 +0200
Status: RO

  Thank you all for giving me advice for making a "historical" Country 
and Western dress!
The dress I made is now on my website!
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/CostumeG/Country&Western.html

Greetings,
        Deredere


Deredere & Owen Iskander wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I am invited to a country and western wedding and I was wondering if a 
> 1850 Amarican dress would be appropriate.
>
> Normally I make 15th to 16th century dresses, and this would be an 
> intresting experience.
> But I don't know much of this period.
> I made a design wich you can see here:
> http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/1850.html
>
> Would this be the right look?
> What kind of chemise would have been worn with this dress?
> And what kind of pleats should I use for the skirt to attach to the body?
> It doesn't have to be perfectly period but I would like to now.
>
> Greetings,
>        Deredere
>
>
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From: "Apollonia Margherita" <apollonia@bellsouth.net>
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 08:02:57 -0400
Status: RO

I don't know if this is what you are looking for, but try these links...

www.reconstructinghistory.com

www.celticgarb.org

Apollonia


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <sustre@pixelations.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, September 16, 2002 11:38 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Leine info online?


> I'm frantically sewing some tunics (Herjolfernes based) for an event 
> in a couple of weeks, but my Irish-Brit husband would appreciate an 
> Irish option, I think. I remember there was an excellent article in 
> Tournaments Illuminated several years ago on a more-authentic leine, 
> and I carefully set that issue aside because I wanted to make one for 
> him- and have never seen it since. (And yes, I've cleaned the house 
> in the meantime! <g>)
> 
> Does anyone know if there's a copy of that article online somewhere? 
> IIRC, the author was hoping at one point to put it up...
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Amanda
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 05:09:13 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

You mentioned a book Mel that you bought at 70us but
could have photocopied at 5us as an example of your
principles of owning the original.  We get into
copoyright with original variations on public domain
quilt patterns too.  I'm hoping to get some of
tweedlebops ebay books as I want them but they're out
of print for the most part and I hate to copy or scan,
 my last resort for particularly yummy photos.
                         Cassandra

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Subject: [h-cost] beginers book
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 21:40:27 +0930
Status: RO



Hello
I've just been fliping through what I think is the BEST beginers book for 
tudor clothes (actually thats its name 'Tudor Clothes') Its aimed at school 
productions. It hase really simple and clear instructions along with grided 
patterns in two sizes (for children). But what I didn't notice untill 
recently was that it is written by Suzi Clarke, who I believe is on this 
list. If so: Great book!
Rebecca Anderson

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Subject: [h-cost] query: contemp. ceremonial attire
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 14:27:34 +0200
Status: RO

Hello List Fellows,


Who can recall examples of military uniforms used in ceremonies designed 
upon historical patterns (like Ren. of Swiss Guard in Vatican), or folk 
costumes (like Greek guards od honour)?

Also, who can count some among contemporary uses of historical or folk 
dresses in dynastic ceremonies? Among postcards in Sweden there is always a 
set of King's and Queen's photos wearing folk costume. There was a fine 
newspiece example cited here at the List following last Christmas gathering 
in Helsinki, when Prime Minister (a lady) showed up in an archaeological 
replica.

Anyone wants to bet for score bigger than 20/20 of each use?

 ¤¤¤¤¤¤¤¤¤¤¤¤¤¤¤¤¤¤¤¤¤¤¤¤¤¤¤¤¤¤¤¤¤¤¤¤¤¤¤
Jadran Kale
Muzej grada Sibenika, P.p.7, HR-22001 Sibenik
Croatia:  385  (0) 22 /  213 - 880,  fax  213 - 355
@  http://zupanija.sibenik.museum
 ¤¤¤¤¤Sent with PINE 4.10 from CARNet¤¤¤¤¤¤

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From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] what book Mel
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 13:24:10 +0100
Status: RO

>You mentioned a book Mel that you bought at 70us but
could have photocopied at 5us

No that wasn't me I'm afraid , it was the poster who mentioned universities
who used to photocopy whole books I think ?

Unless of course I'm going completly mad :))

Mel

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I forwarded the various messages on book recommendations to Janet from 
medievalbooks.com.  She send me the forwarded reply.  
She is trying to fond costuming books in other languages (other than English) 
to have translated and published. If anyone on this list knows of any good 
costuming books in other languages (other than English) or some in English 
that should be reprinted, please let her know.  She is working with various 
publishers to get this done.
Thanks
Elisabeth

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>I forwarded the various messages on book recommendations to Janet from medievalbooks.com. &nbsp;She send me the forwarded reply. &nbsp;
<BR>She is trying to fond costuming books in other languages (other than English) to have translated and published. If anyone on this list knows of any good costuming books in other languages (other than English) or some in English that should be reprinted, please let her know. &nbsp;She is working with various publishers to get this done.
<BR>Thanks
<BR>Elisabeth</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: Historical Costuming book recommendations
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 01:16:32 -0400
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Dear Elizabeth,

Thanks for the forwards from Hcostume.  The first series they were talking a=
bout is a mystery series by the lady who wrote Murder at the War.  If no one=
 else has corrected the poster, Ferris (Mary Monica Pulver) and Margaret Fra=
zer are not the same person.  For many years, Margaret Frazer was 2 ladies,=20=
Mary Monica Pulver (aka Ferris) and Gail Frazer (who we've met at Kalamazoo)=
.  However, for at least the last 6 books, Gail Frazer has been writing them=
 by herself.  If you want to send this as a reply with my name on it, go ahe=
ad.

I could get Women's Dress in the Ancient Greek World, but I thought it reall=
y would be too early.  The Devil's Cloth is the one I got for a discount at=20=
Kalamazoo (and you'd wanted a copy too and there was only 1 left.)  I starte=
d it but haven't gotten very far - so far, it seems more opinion than fact.=20=
 I think I saw the announcement for Dressing Renaissance Florence at Kalamaz=
oo, but I hadn't realized both it and The Silk Industry of Renaissance Venic=
e were from the same publisher.  Maybe I'll have to open a new account.  I'l=
l send the title of the Italian one to Brian Price - I talked to a lady work=
ing on her doctorate in Romance Languages at Pennsic and referred her to him=
.  She's been translating one of those late period fighting manuals like he=20=
publishes, but translating costume books would be more useful.

Janet

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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Dear Elizabeth,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks for the forwards from Hcostume.&nbsp=
; The=20
first series they were talking about is a mystery series by the lady who wro=
te=20
<U>Murder at the War</U>.&nbsp; If no one else has corrected the poster, Fer=
ris=20
(Mary Monica Pulver) and Margaret Frazer are <STRONG>not</STRONG> the same=20
person.&nbsp; For many years, Margaret Frazer was 2 ladies, Mary Monica Pulv=
er=20
(aka Ferris) and Gail Frazer (who we've met at Kalamazoo).&nbsp; However, fo=
r at=20
least the last 6 books, Gail Frazer has been writing them by herself.&nbsp;=20=
If=20
you want to send this as a reply with my name on it, go ahead.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I could get <U>Women's Dress in the Ancient=
 Greek=20
World</U>, but I thought it really would be too early.&nbsp; <U>The Devil's=20
Cloth</U> is the one I got for a discount at Kalamazoo (and you'd wanted&nbs=
p;a=20
copy too and there was only 1 left.)&nbsp; I started it but haven't gotten v=
ery=20
far - so far, it seems more opinion than fact.&nbsp; I think I saw the=20
announcement for <U>Dressing Renaissance Florence</U> at Kalamazoo, but I ha=
dn't=20
realized both it and <U>The Silk Industry of Renaissance Venice</U> were fro=
m=20
the same publisher.&nbsp; Maybe I'll have to open a new account.&nbsp; I'll=20=
send=20
the title of the Italian one to Brian Price - I talked to a lady working on=20=
her=20
doctorate in Romance Languages at Pennsic and referred her to him.&nbsp; She=
's=20
been translating one of those late period fighting manuals like he publishes=
,=20
but translating costume books would be more useful.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Janet</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 06:38:41 -0600
Status: RO

Oh, I had a *great* trip....and having dinner with you and Tom was
certainly one of the high points! It's great to have a "voice" to go
with the words on my screen, although your personality was just about
spot-on with how you come across on the list! ;-)
--sue

Teddy wrote:
> 

> 
> Perhaps I will be able to use the flight to Chicago to worn on my
> costumes for Costume Con then!  Thanks Sue.   Glad you had a
> good visit overhere.
> 
> Teddy
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 06:40:39 -0600
Status: RO

All right, now, you guys....I've never *been* to a Costume Con....Are
they worth going to? What happens at one? Dish, please!
--sue, who thinks it conflicts with a Kingdom (SCA) event, but who'd
like to (maybe) come anyway, if she can afford it

Teddy wrote:
> 
> > I intend to be at CostumeCon too. Eventually Linda will tell me what
> > I'm going to talk about. ;-)
> 
> I just hope it doesn't clash with anything I'm doing.... Karen, see to it
> will you, please?....<GGGG>
> 
> Teddy
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 13:35:04 +0100
Status: RO

>>> jkale@public.srce.hr 09/17/02 01:27pm >>>

>Who can recall examples of military uniforms used in ceremonies designed 
>upon historical patterns (like Ren. of Swiss Guard in Vatican), or folk 
>costumes (like Greek guards od honour)?

Well, the Yeomen of the Guard (at the Tower of London) wear a Tudor-style uniform, and the King's Troop of the Royal Horse Artillery (who fire horse-drawn guns for ceremonial salutes) wear a uniform resembling the styles of the Napoleonic era.


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] query: contemp. ceremonial attire
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 13:36:18 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Jadran Kale <jkale@public.srce.hr> wrote: > Hello List Fellows,
> 
> 
> Who can recall examples of military uniforms used in ceremonies designed 
> upon historical patterns (like Ren. of Swiss Guard in Vatican), or folk 
> costumes (like Greek guards od honour)?

Chelsea pensioners, fossilised tricorned and justaucorps from the 18th c., but
coat skirts less wide.
http://www.kipar.org/members/recruitement.jpg
The gentleman on the right doesn't wear his tricorne (they wear those only for
ceremonial occasions).
Yeomen of the guard at the Tower of London.
Redcoat and bearskin hats parade uniforms, 19th c.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: CostumeCon21
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 07:55:26 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


On Tue, 17 Sep 2002, Sue Clemenger wrote:

> All right, now, you guys....I've never *been* to a Costume Con....Are
> they worth going to? What happens at one? Dish, please!

I've never been to one, despite having been in the same city as them (or
very close) at least three times now. So I'd love feedback too. I didn't
go to them in past because I only heard about them from fantasy or
theatrical costumers, and figured I couldn't spare the time and money just
for that. But now I understand there will be (1) significant historical
costuming content, and (2) Teddy.

--Robin


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From: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@nyc.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] UK Interested in 'Plastic Whalebone' corset boningfrom Wissner?
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 09:14:30 -0300
Status: RO


Are you referring to the plastic whalebone or the German Plastic boning?  If
it is the German plastic stuff that looks a bit like Rigilene, how does it
compare to steel bones?  What width did you use?  What do you all recommend,
as laying out $100 for boning I've never seen is a bit much?
-Megan





Megan

I have experimented with several kinds of plastic whalebone in
mid-nineteenth-century corsets and bodices.

I personally prefer the "German plastic" over the "plastic whalebone" (these
are Farthingales terms) because it's slightly thinner, more flexible and
easier to cut.  It just "feels" more like real whalebone to me. But the
plastic whalebone is fine, too. The "German" looks like Rigilene in the
picture, but it isn't at all.  Rigilene is sort-of like plastic fish line
woven into a fabric tape. (I use it for quick corset mock-ups because you
can stitch right through it and get instant results.) The ridges you see in
the plastic boning  are deeply incased in plastic - they don't even feel
bumpy, though I assume they're essential to the structure of the stuff.  The
"plastic whalebone" has no ridges at all - it's just milky white plastic.

For me, the 11 mm is the basic size for a corset (I'm talking about c.
1860's).  I love the tiny 5 mm to use at the very CB - outside the lacing
eyelets.  I use it in bodices for the same purpose.  For general boning in a
bodice you might want to try 7mm.

Cut the plastic boning to the proper length.  Round the ends so the tips
won't cut through the tape. Slip the boning into the casings. The plastic
boning has a natural curl from having been coiled.  It isn't necessary to
try to steam the boning flat. Just be sure the bones curve out from the body
like parenthesis. When the bodice is laced, it will hug the torso.

Why would you lay out $100, by the way?  This boning is sold by the meter.
In fact, Farthingales will send you a sample of every size and type.

Martha

PS  I'm not a secret agent for Farthingales - really!  In fact, I'm sure
that Greenberg & Hammer also carries the German plastic and they're nice to
deal with, too.  They just don't have a web site.




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From: Linda Krecker-Schkred <rhianwen@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: CostumeCon21
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 10:55:47 -0400
Status: RO

I attended one in Philly more on a whim than anything else. There was 
indeed a lot of fantasy stuff. There was a good deal of theatre 
stuff. But there was also a huge amount of historical stuff. There 
was a theme but I don't remember what it actually was. There was a 
lot of Victorian and 1830's era things. There were accessories, 
books,  etc. for sale. There were talks about a large variety of 
subjects. Some only on how a group of people made this or that 
costume tat was later in the costume show. I took one on mask making. 
I also took one that the lady who runs AlterYears held. It had to do 
with getting into the business of costuming, all aspects. That was 
informative for me. there were indeed classes on historical subjects. 
The costume/fashion show (can't remember what they called it) was 
fun, a mix of the sci-fi con style with 1-minute presentations and a 
real historical fashion show. I remember one gal who made a near 
perfect Victorian outfit for walking out. She was in the Novice 
category. People kept remarking on how she isn't allowed to be a 
Novice any more. And the winners were a group who did a spoof on the 
Three Musketeers called the Three Mouseketeers. The outfits were 
really nice doublets with these incredibly made, overly large 
mask/headpieces to depict the mousketeers, Deertanian and of course 
the Cardinal.

I'd say it's a mix of both historical and fantasy. As an aspiring 
professional I felt it worth it. As a current professional, I may try 
to swing it as the most recent have been way to far away for me to 
even consider. Your presence would be very welcome.

Linda Krecker-Schkred
(Rhianwen in the SCA)

At 7:55 AM -0500 9/17/02, Robin Netherton wrote:
>On Tue, 17 Sep 2002, Sue Clemenger wrote:
>
>>  All right, now, you guys....I've never *been* to a Costume Con....Are
>>  they worth going to? What happens at one? Dish, please!
>
>I've never been to one, despite having been in the same city as them (or
>very close) at least three times now. So I'd love feedback too. I didn't
>go to them in past because I only heard about them from fantasy or
>theatrical costumers, and figured I couldn't spare the time and money just
>for that. But now I understand there will be (1) significant historical
>costuming content, and (2) Teddy.
>
>--Robin
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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References: <MBBBIBHEOBHJCOBEMGOLGEOJDDAA.marthakelly@nyc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK Interested in 'Plastic Whalebone' corset boningfrom Wissner?
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 17:22:16 +0200
Status: RO

Dear Megan.
I dont think many of you over at the other side of the big pond know much
about boning from Wissner.
Therefore:
It is the nearest you can get from real whalebone. I used it when i made
Kipars blue Baroque dress from 1660 with the silver lace. The boning comes
in rolls with 30 meters in each roll. You can meassure how long your boning
is to be, and then cut from the roll. You dont get any of these small spare
bones, wich you never can use for anything resonable, so you dont loose a
bit. The boning i got was the narrowest they had and it is 12 m.m. wide. You
cant cut it with ordinary scissors, you must have a real tool to cut. But
the best part of it is that you can use this cutter and cut off the points
in the corners so that your bone gets round in each end, and you dont have
to use sandpaper because it wont get sharp. When you have cut the edges
round they are ready to go into the casings in the corset. It has spared me
a lot of time.
Compared to steel bones, they are very good and very strong. They are
bendable, so that you can shape the bones to your liking.
So if there are some over there who sells Wissners boning you should really
get it a try, I baught 200 meters, the smallest amount you can buy directly
from the factory, so i have a lot of it still.
The reason why i have not used it so much, is that i mostly make 18th.
century stays, and the bones in these stays has to be very narrow, and then
Wissners bones are two broad.
Wissner also makes crinoline steel. Very good. It is steel covered with
white plastic. I have used it very succesfully for paniers, even the large
paniers (2 meter wide)

Bjarne




----- Original Message -----
From: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@nyc.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2002 2:14 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] UK Interested in 'Plastic Whalebone' corset boningfrom
Wissner?


>
> Are you referring to the plastic whalebone or the German Plastic boning?
If
> it is the German plastic stuff that looks a bit like Rigilene, how does it
> compare to steel bones?  What width did you use?  What do you all
recommend,
> as laying out $100 for boning I've never seen is a bit much?
> -Megan
>
>
>
>
>
> Megan
>
> I have experimented with several kinds of plastic whalebone in
> mid-nineteenth-century corsets and bodices.
>
> I personally prefer the "German plastic" over the "plastic whalebone"
(these
> are Farthingales terms) because it's slightly thinner, more flexible and
> easier to cut.  It just "feels" more like real whalebone to me. But the
> plastic whalebone is fine, too. The "German" looks like Rigilene in the
> picture, but it isn't at all.  Rigilene is sort-of like plastic fish line
> woven into a fabric tape. (I use it for quick corset mock-ups because you
> can stitch right through it and get instant results.) The ridges you see
in
> the plastic boning  are deeply incased in plastic - they don't even feel
> bumpy, though I assume they're essential to the structure of the stuff.
The
> "plastic whalebone" has no ridges at all - it's just milky white plastic.
>
> For me, the 11 mm is the basic size for a corset (I'm talking about c.
> 1860's).  I love the tiny 5 mm to use at the very CB - outside the lacing
> eyelets.  I use it in bodices for the same purpose.  For general boning in
a
> bodice you might want to try 7mm.
>
> Cut the plastic boning to the proper length.  Round the ends so the tips
> won't cut through the tape. Slip the boning into the casings. The plastic
> boning has a natural curl from having been coiled.  It isn't necessary to
> try to steam the boning flat. Just be sure the bones curve out from the
body
> like parenthesis. When the bodice is laced, it will hug the torso.
>
> Why would you lay out $100, by the way?  This boning is sold by the meter.
> In fact, Farthingales will send you a sample of every size and type.
>
> Martha
>
> PS  I'm not a secret agent for Farthingales - really!  In fact, I'm sure
> that Greenberg & Hammer also carries the German plastic and they're nice
to
> deal with, too.  They just don't have a web site.
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Sep 17 12:06:17 2002
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From: "Suzanne" <suzanne@grannd.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] UK Interested in 'Plastic Whalebone' corset boning from Wissner?
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 12:03:03 -0400
Status: RO

The material being referred to is commonly known in the US and Canada as
"Plastic Whalebone" it is the plastic boning from Wissner in Germany that
both  my company, Grannd Garb in the US, and Farthingales in Canada carry.
My comparisons to some real whalebone have lead me to believe it to be one
of the closest materials to replicating the period look of garments made
with whalebone but each person who has compared them has their own opinion
and preferences.

The "German Plastic Boning" is something different that only Farthingales
carries. It acts similar to rigelene/multitex as far as having thinner areas
that can be sewn through, but also acts similar to some thickness of solid
plastic bonings (both of which we carry).

They are all totally different materials and are each best suited to
different uses.

My 2 cents.

Suzanne


http://www.grannd.com



> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
> Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2002 11:22 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK Interested in 'Plastic Whalebone' corset
> boningfrom Wissner?
>
>
> Dear Megan.
> I dont think many of you over at the other side of the big pond know much
> about boning from Wissner.
> Therefore:
> It is the nearest you can get from real whalebone. I used it when i made
> Kipars blue Baroque dress from 1660 with the silver lace. The boning comes
> in rolls with 30 meters in each roll. You can meassure how long
> your boning
> is to be, and then cut from the roll. You dont get any of these
> small spare
> bones, wich you never can use for anything resonable, so you dont loose a
> bit. The boning i got was the narrowest they had and it is 12
> m.m. wide. You
> cant cut it with ordinary scissors, you must have a real tool to cut. But
> the best part of it is that you can use this cutter and cut off the points
> in the corners so that your bone gets round in each end, and you dont have
> to use sandpaper because it wont get sharp. When you have cut the edges
> round they are ready to go into the casings in the corset. It has
> spared me
> a lot of time.
> Compared to steel bones, they are very good and very strong. They are
> bendable, so that you can shape the bones to your liking.
> So if there are some over there who sells Wissners boning you
> should really
> get it a try, I baught 200 meters, the smallest amount you can
> buy directly
> from the factory, so i have a lot of it still.
> The reason why i have not used it so much, is that i mostly make 18th.
> century stays, and the bones in these stays has to be very
> narrow, and then
> Wissners bones are two broad.
> Wissner also makes crinoline steel. Very good. It is steel covered with
> white plastic. I have used it very succesfully for paniers, even the large
> paniers (2 meter wide)
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@nyc.rr.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2002 2:14 PM
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] UK Interested in 'Plastic Whalebone' corset
> boningfrom
> Wissner?
>
>
> >
> > Are you referring to the plastic whalebone or the German Plastic boning?
> If
> > it is the German plastic stuff that looks a bit like Rigilene,
> how does it
> > compare to steel bones?  What width did you use?  What do you all
> recommend,
> > as laying out $100 for boning I've never seen is a bit much?
> > -Megan

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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 10:04:24 -0600
Status: RO

on 9/17/02 2:19 AM, Kate M Bunting at K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk wrote:


> 
> I was a child in the 50s. My mother didn't wear a girdle either, being as
> skinny as I am now, or even a bra most of the time; just a vest (?undershirt
> to Americans) of knitted cotton or fine wool.
> 
>Gee, I thought all women wore girdles in the 50s, maybe because even up to the
mid 60s they were in style and thin girls like me wore them in high school,
although we didn't need to.

Sylvia R

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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 09:27:34 -0700
Status: RO



> And yes in more elabortate cases of books e copies are as expensive. But not
> in acedemic reports such as archaeological digs etc, the print costs push
> the work into the unaffordable by many, wheras the CD & print off your own
> as you desired would be .

<snip>

>
>
> Shouldn't do print on demand here is very high quality & fast & cheaper than
> offset. Many acedemic reports are going that way here.
>

<snip>

E-books and print on demand are both ways to produce small numbers of books,
when needed, thereby making it easier to publish books for a possibly small
market and reducing warehouse costs.  However, I don't expect e-books to become
a dominant format, at least not without better screen resolution and significant
changes in readers' habits.  Academic reports can have a highly targeted
audience and be pretty much mandatory reading for it. Readers will probably put
up with whatever format the report is in even if they dislike it.  I think
reference works such as dictionaries are ideal for electronic format because you
must search them, and don't actually _read_ them.  But otherwise . . . .CD books
were touted as the coming thing some years before e-books were, but CD books
have been a flop on the market.

I do expect print on demand to eventually become far more popular.  I also
expect it to induce publishers to reprint many more out-of-print books. In fact,
it's not unlikely that even books with a rather large initial audience will
initially be printed offset. Then the publisher will switch to POD after the
initial print run has been sold,  if demand has dropped, rather than putting the
book out of print  But that day isn't here yet. I don't know what kind of POD
equipment they use in the UK.  But in the US POD is laser printer quality, in a
very limited range of book sizes, on a very limited selection of paper, with a
not very durable or attractive binding--all for a higher unit cost than an
offset print run.  And since most printers don't yet have POD equipment, the POD
printers get enough business that most deliver more slowly than an offset
printer.

I'll switch to POD myself when the equipment and prices are as good as for
offset printing--but I think that will be a few years.



> No there are 99% of printed books ever printed, are out of print, most of
> these will catagorically never be printed again. Ok maybe I can't guess
> which maybe. But in the meantime it is the person hungry for knowledge that
> suffers, most of the authors are long dead & don't care.

I think we've agreed though, that copyright violation is theft and that these
are not valid reasons for someone to make an illegal copy.  The reader's need or
desire does not outweigh the rights of the copyright owner.  A lot of people
making their own copies does incrementally cut into sales, or, if the work is
out of print, the value of reprinting it.

Fran


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Sep 17 14:40:13 2002
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 11:35:17 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

> A lot of people
> making their own copies does incrementally cut into
> sales, or, if the work is
> out of print, the value of reprinting it.
> Fran

Hhhhmmm. Not so sure if I agree with this when it
comes to out-of-print books. It seems to me that an
excess of copies being passed around is a sure sign
that a book is woefully needed on the market. A
re-issue would gladly be snapped up by almost all of
the copy-havers, in addition to a nameless mass of
folks who don't even yet have copies but will take the
path of least resistence once they know the book is
available again for a reasonable price.

For instance, I have much-used and previously-copied
copies of books like Margaret Scott's _Late Gothic
Europe: 1400-1500_ and a portion of Poul Norlund's
Buried Norseman work, but I would replace them in a
heartbeat with the real thing, if I could get a clean
book version at a reasonable price. I also gladly
spent two hours and $70 to copy _A Pictorial History
of Embroidery_, color plates included, because that
$300-$400 price tag is just out of my budget range for
such things. If the book were re-issued for $100,
brand-new, I'd make it happen and save my copied
version as a set of handy one-offs to show others as
needed.

Tasha

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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 11:44:34 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Congratulations Katie,
       I went to a Pennsic during the morning sick
phase of my first pregnancy, two weeks after the "I
looked fine in my garb and then overnight got huge
phase" so I didn't have time to sew alot.   A ropa is
a good idea as is a houppelande.   If you check out
the research on the Shinrone gown, the author (name
escapes me at the moment) points out that the gown has
some removeable darts sewn in and that if you take the
darts out then the gown only hangs correctly on a
pregnant woman.  Given that yearly babies were a
reality even up to my grandmother's time you might
consider making your gown for the last trimester and
then basting in darts to fit your current size.  If
you take the darts out before washing your gown it
shouldn't mark the fabric much (wool is very forgiving
that way).  Or try taking in the side seams and/or
using several shallow darts, releasing one on either
side as you get bigger.  I had 3 kids in under three
years (1 newborn, one 10 month old and a 2 year old at
one time) so got really good at fudging the fit on my
garb.
     As to the copyright discussion... Most of my
quilt instruction and pattern manuals explicitly state
that I can make a garment or design from their pages
as long as it is not for resale.  So if I make a
quilted or appliqued garment I can give it away but
not sell it.  What about the copying of something like
chapter 6 of Buried Norsemen?   Or if I copy select
bits of a book so I can work on a gown for myself?  I
printed out a copu of the Helena Snakenborg portrait
so I could take it to work and try sketching the roses
on the shift.  I don't make things for resale and I
would dearly love to own my own copy of many books but
getting one, even used, is often problematical.  Has
anyone ever seen a copy of Fabric of Society by Tozer
and Levitt for sale somewhere?  As far as I can tell
it was an exhibition book printed in 1983 and it has
some really great photos from the costume museum at
Bath, great for my current  museum project but,but
,but
the library where I usually check it out has pulled
their copy because it was falling apart.  They won't
repair it because it's not a high use item and they
won't sell me the damaged copy.  Now I have to
interlibrary loan it from the local university. 
Extreme hassle when I just need access to one chapter.
I understand the theft angle (husband collects rare
books) but the difficulty in getting information
sometimes just drives me nuts, especially when I know
the info is out there.
     And now back to the Elizabethan shift....What
type of drawn thread work is period.  My linen
remnants aren't long enough unless I piece them
together and Fashion in Detail shows a shirt with a
separate shoulder piece,  which is almost exactly
where I need to piece.  Help?
                        Cassandra (grumpy because sick
child is keeping her home from the museum today)




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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 11:54:05 -0700
Status: RO


Tasha McGann wrote:

> > A lot of people
> > making their own copies does incrementally cut into
> > sales, or, if the work is
> > out of print, the value of reprinting it.
> > Fran
>
> Hhhhmmm. Not so sure if I agree with this when it
> comes to out-of-print books. It seems to me that an
> excess of copies being passed around is a sure sign
> that a book is woefully needed on the market.

If there many illegal copies, this has weakened the market and the
publisher is less likely to reprint. Many people _won't_ bother
replacing their photocopy with "the real thing."


>
> re-issue would gladly be snapped up by almost all of
> the copy-havers, in addition to a nameless mass of
> folks who don't even yet have copies but will take the
> path of least resistence once they know the book is
> available again for a reasonable price.

>  If the book were re-issued for $100,
> brand-new, I'd make it happen and save my copied
> version as a set of handy one-offs to show others as
> needed.

The price of the book being too high for you does not mean the price
is unreasonable.  More to the point, it does not make copying legal.

Fran


---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance


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From: Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com>
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 13:12:36 -0600
Status: RO


Another garb idea: Russian sarafans.  I wear them all the time now
because they're comfy, and I've loaned them out to 8.5 month pregnant
women.  The dress is full, and hangs from the shoulders.

	http://medievalrussia.freeservers.com/dak-sarafan.html
	http://sca-garb.freeservers.com/articles/sarafan.html

					...eliz
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] copies and rare books; was: International Copyrights
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 20:53:19 +0100
Status: RO

Please can I make an impassioned plea??

Echoing what someone said yesterday and at the risk of being thought
rude..may I respectfully suggest that this discussion now has very little
relevance to costuming etc etc?  Can we move on, or move
off-line..please...my in- box is clogged enough!!

Regards

Helen
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: 17 September 2002 19:54
Subject: Re: [h-cost] copies and rare books; was: International Copyrights


>
> Tasha McGann wrote:
>
> > > A lot of people
> > > making their own copies does incrementally cut into
> > > sales, or, if the work is
> > > out of print, the value of reprinting it.
> > > Fran
> >
> > Hhhhmmm. Not so sure if I agree with this when it
> > comes to out-of-print books. It seems to me that an
> > excess of copies being passed around is a sure sign
> > that a book is woefully needed on the market.
>
> If there many illegal copies, this has weakened the market and the
> publisher is less likely to reprint. Many people _won't_ bother
> replacing their photocopy with "the real thing."
>
>
> >
> > re-issue would gladly be snapped up by almost all of
> > the copy-havers, in addition to a nameless mass of
> > folks who don't even yet have copies but will take the
> > path of least resistence once they know the book is
> > available again for a reasonable price.
>
> >  If the book were re-issued for $100,
> > brand-new, I'd make it happen and save my copied
> > version as a set of handy one-offs to show others as
> > needed.
>
> The price of the book being too high for you does not mean the price
> is unreasonable.  More to the point, it does not make copying legal.
>
> Fran
>
>
> ---------------------------------------------
> Visit our web pages!
> Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
> Historic and vintage dance
> http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] I think there is an essential flaw in my cunning plan for an Elizabethian
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 21:00:24 +0100
Status: RO

I'll second that congrats!

My baby was born near;ly 7 months ago and I still vividly remember trying to
squeeeeeze into stays/bodies at 9 weeks, too!  I can't give any advice (out
of my period) other than make it biiggg!  If you're going to feed your baby
yourself, then make allowances for any upper garments, too, for after the
birth.  Although I've lost loads of weight, it still hasn't come off my
rather "ample"  bosom  ;-0 You could of course be very different, but it's
something to bear in mind for afterwards..it's not like you can pop to the
local shops to buy "off-the-peg"!

Good luck

Helen
----- Original Message -----
From: "N Kipar" <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: 17 September 2002 08:03
Subject: Re: [h-cost] I think there is an essential flaw in my cunning plan
for an Elizabethian


> --- Katie Lewis <katie_lewis@lycos.com> wrote: > Well, maybe not a flaw,
but
> definately a complication.
> > To recap, I want to make a gathered kirtle out of linen, to be worn
under a
> > loose gown made out of wool.
> > Then, last month, just as I was preparing to draft the patterns...I
found out
> > that I am pregnant.  Now I'm quite happy about the pregnancy but it does
> > rather complicate matters wrt the sewing :)
>
> First of all congratulations!
> second, I have NO experience with being pregnant, so caveat emptor here.
> Third, did you see the wonderful Ropa that one of the ladies from I think
> Bristol fair made? I think she is on Margo's patern list, and she looked
SUPERB
> in it when she went to the fair TWO weeks before she was due. I am just
> wondering, perhaps of you went for something completely different this
time,
> for a ropa, then you wouldn't have to worry, and just make the kirtle gown
> after the baby is born?
>
> Nicole
>
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
> Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: marquis@kipar.org
>
> __________________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: CostumeCon21
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 15:48:53 -0400
Status: RO

I've been to 2,  about 10 years ago.   I stopped going because I didn't
really know anyone to talk to, and that got lonely.
   But some of the skits were hilarious - the one where the bad guy tried to
rip the bodice off of someone, which of course didn't just rip off,  and he
bounced off a hoop skirt,  etc, etc,  until he finally went and got  a chain
saw and chased her off the stage,  that was a classic send-off on all
"bodice ripper" novels!
    It wasn't easy to talk to anyone for more than a couple of minutes
though - everyone was busy with their own groups of friends.
Rowena

> > All right, now, you guys....I've never *been* to a Costume Con....Are
> > they worth going to? What happens at one? Dish, please!
>
> I've never been to one, despite having been in the same city as them (or
> very close) at least three times now. So I'd love feedback too. I didn't
> go to them in past because I only heard about them from fantasy or
> theatrical costumers, and figured I couldn't spare the time and money just
> for that. But now I understand there will be (1) significant historical
> costuming content, and (2) Teddy.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK Interested in 'Plastic Whalebone' corset boning
	from Wissner?
From: sylvia <sylvia@ntw.net>
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 13:37:18 -0600
Status: RO

I'm still trying to determine if the plastic boning I got from Endsdown
Enterprises is the same as the boning some of you are describing as German
plastic boning or Wissner plastic boning.  I've tried calling Endsdown and
no one answers the phone, so maybe they went out of business.

I looked more carefully at the samples they sent me and their boning
consists of a piece of plastic that is folded over twice.  It's white, quite
narrow and very flexible.  Does anyone know what this is?


Sylvia Rognstad
-- 
Divinity Designs and Emeralds
http://www.d-e-designs.com

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] International Copyrights
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 15:02:19 -0500 (CDT)
Status: RO


Just a postscript to this conversation.

Fran summed up much of this conversation accurately as follows:

> I think we've agreed though, that copyright violation is theft and
> that these are not valid reasons for someone to make an illegal copy.  
> The reader's need or desire does not outweigh the rights of the
> copyright owner.  A lot of people making their own copies does
> incrementally cut into sales, or, if the work is out of print, the
> value of reprinting it.

Since all the conversation so far has focused on books that have already
been printed, and the monetary value thereof based on sales, I did want to
point out that copyright also covers material put into writing that has
*not* been printed.

I have research that is not yet formally published. Right now, there's one
appendix and two book chapters for books still in various stages of
editing/production. I also have a proposal sitting on a journal
publisher's desk. And more that I hope to write up at some time. I will
not make any money off any of these publications when they appear, but I
will be making a contribution to the literature. As an independent scholar
whose foothold in academia is precarious as it is, this is very important
to me and to my credibility.

In the meantime, though, I present much of this material in lecture
format, both at academic conferences and at guest lectures and workshops.
My handouts all have a line on them reminding people that I own the
copyright and the handouts are not to be copied and reprinted without my
direct permission.

If someone webbed my handouts, or if someone tape-recorded one of my
lectures, transcribed it, and published it, I wouldn't exactly be losing
sales, because there's nothing to be sold. But it could ruin my chances
for publishing the material in a peer-reviewed journal. Journals won't
take something that has already been published -- regardless of who
published it or whether they had the authority to do so.

Some well-meaning people, oddly, have interpreted my efforts to maintain
control over my work as meaning that I don't want it to be cited. People
have even assumed they can reproduce some of my work in their contest
documentation, class handouts, or SCA newsletters as long as they *don't*
mention my name, because "Robin doesn't want it published"! No no no no
no. It's fine to use what I've taught, but for heaven's sake, credit me
with the work I've spent years doing! (I'm happy to supply citation
information for people who aren't sure how to do this correctly.)

I'm sorry to say that I periodically run into an article written by a
student of mine, describing in close detail methods I taught that person
in a class or workshop, at some points with the same words I used at the
time, but with no reference at all to the fact that those ideas and
methods originated with me. Those ideas, then, become associated with the
person who published the articles, who is assumed to be the originator.
That causes damage to me -- measured not in dollars, but in reputation and
credibility.

So copyright is very, very important to me, even without a monetary
factor. What's at stake is my ability to control the distribution of my
work, and also my ability to ensure that my name remains associated with
my work.

I'm happy to share my findings and happy to see them used. But I do
understand why some academics will not lecture to SCA or other hobbyist
groups, or why some will not even respond to questions from individuals.
If I find that the degree of unauthorized "lifting" becomes intolerable, I
would have to do the same. I sincerely hope this does not happen. Which is
why I do my best to educate my audiences about what that copyright notice
means, and why it's there.

--Robin

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1950s underwear?
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 12:58:25 -0700
Status: RO


> > I was a child in the 50s. My mother didn't wear a girdle either, being as
> > skinny as I am now, or even a bra most of the time; just a vest 
> (?undershirt
> > to Americans) of knitted cotton or fine wool.
> >
> >Gee, I thought all women wore girdles in the 50s, maybe because even up 
> to the
>mid 60s they were in style and thin girls like me wore them in high school,
>although we didn't need to.

Obviously, you didn't grow up in California ;)  I was never thin, but never 
wore a girdle in all of the 50s-60s.  I had an aunt who would have made me 
wear one if, indeed, everybody was wearing them (the maiden-aunt full of 
child-raising advice).  But she stopped wearing them in the 50s, I think.


Kayta

    //// \\\
   ////-@@\\\
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      )   ((((((
/----\   /---\))

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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] query: contemp. ceremonial attire
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 21:37:26 +0100
Status: RO

N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote
> --- Jadran Kale <jkale@public.srce.hr> wrote: > Hello List Fellows,
>>
>>
>> Who can recall examples of military uniforms used in ceremonies designed
>> upon historical patterns (like Ren. of Swiss Guard in Vatican), or folk
>> costumes (like Greek guards od honour)?
>
>Chelsea pensioners, fossilised tricorned and justaucorps from the 18th c., but
>coat skirts less wide.
>http://www.kipar.org/members/recruitement.jpg
>The gentleman on the right doesn't wear his tricorne (they wear those only for
>ceremonial occasions).
>Yeomen of the guard at the Tower of London.
>Redcoat and bearskin hats parade uniforms, 19th c.
>
>Nicole
>
Can anyone think of a British regiment whose dress uniform reflects 
actual day-to-day garments later than 1900?  (I'm talking Army here, RAF 
and women don't count, and the Royal Navy has mostly updated).

Jean
-- 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hems (and pleats)
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 21:44:50 +0100
Status: RO

N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote
> --- Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote: >
>
>> May I brag?  We have today finished a new pair of hose for himself
>> (banded hose for Hastings) - and our season isn't even over yet!  And
>> I've done all the mending and started on the new kit too.
>
>Shocking!!! *laughs*
>Okay, so I am still working on roll hemming His Nib's new fine linen cravat.
>Thanks to kat I know how to roll hem now, but Kat, I am still slow and I still
>don't like it. ;-)
>
>> Bets on this industriousness lasting out September?
>
>Okay.... a packet of German chokki biccies that it doesn't?
>
>Nicole
>
Tell you what, you can owe them to me for Kirby Hall next year if I turn 
up with my green dress embroidered at hem, cuffs and neck.  I have 
measured the lengths, I have the cloth sitting on the table to cut the 
strips... I HATE embroidery, and I've never yet finished anything!  This 
is the real challenge for the winter.  How many other garments will I 
make to avoid doing embroidery?

Jean

-- 
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 16:04:00 -0500
Status: RO

On Tue, 17 Sep 2002 15:48:53 -0400
 "Rowena" <sleepyunicorn@citlink.net> wrote:
> > > All right, now, you guys....I've never *been* to a
> Costume Con....Are
> > > they worth going to? What happens at one? Dish,
> please!

I had written a long response, but got disconnected as it
was sending, and so was lost :-(  Let me try again.

Each CostumeCon may have a theme, but that's mostly so that
there is some direction for the Friday Night Social.

The International Costumers Guild encourages costuming in
all its forms.  There is programming ranging from detailed
historical topics to "How to Make a Mascot Outfit", "How to
Move in a Costume", or "How to Make a Prop Gun Out of
Junk".

There are 2 masquerades.  Think of them as 1 minute
performance art, showing the costume(s) choreographed to
music or words.  There are presentation judges out front,
and a workmanship judge backstage.  Our belief is that
excellence deserves reward, so there are awards for all
costumes the judges think are particularly well-shown or
well-constructed.  Separate competitions are held for
science fiction/fantasy costumes and historical ones, plus
a fashion show based on "Future Fashion" designs (a folio
competition held prior to the con).

Please check out www.costume-con.org for information on
upcoming conventions and pictures of past costumes.  In
response to an earlier post, here is a picture of the Three
Mooseketeers:
http://www.costume-con.org/CClink/CC17-Photos/SF24.shtml

They actually competed in the fantasy masquerade; although
they won some awards, Best in Show went to this Minotaur:
http://www.costume-con.org/CClink/CC17-Photos/SF23.shtml

The novice Historical costumer mentioned had this outfit:
http://www.costume-con.org/CClink/CC17-Photos/H07.shtml

Since she competes at a higher level in SF/fantasy, it
could be argued she should have started at Journeyman
anyway.  Best in Show for Historical was this (hang on,
this is a little longwinded)recreation of an 19th century
interpretation of a Turkish harem girl's outfit:
http://www.costume-con.org/CClink/CC17-Photos/H06.shtml

Please look around the site.  The range of costumes is
amazing.  I think there should be more exchanges of
information amongst various costuming groups; we each have
so much to offer, yet so often we stay within our own
little circle.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1950s underwear?
From: sylvia <sylvia@ntw.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <B9ACFD5A.971A%sylvia@ntw.net>
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 15:40:11 -0600
Status: RO

on 9/17/02 1:58 PM, Carolyn Kayta Barrows at kayta@frys.com wrote:

> 
>>> I was a child in the 50s. My mother didn't wear a girdle either, being as
>>> skinny as I am now, or even a bra most of the time; just a vest
>> (?undershirt
>>> to Americans) of knitted cotton or fine wool.
>>> 
>>> Gee, I thought all women wore girdles in the 50s, maybe because even up
>> to the
>> mid 60s they were in style and thin girls like me wore them in high school,
>> although we didn't need to.
> 
> Obviously, you didn't grow up in California ;)  I was never thin, but never
> wore a girdle in all of the 50s-60s.  I had an aunt who would have made me
> wear one if, indeed, everybody was wearing them (the maiden-aunt full of
> child-raising advice).  But she stopped wearing them in the 50s, I think.
> 
> Au contraire.  I lived most of my life in southern California.

Sylvia

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] drawnwork (was copyright)
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 16:57:32 -0500
Status: RO

>>>>>And now back to the Elizabethan shift....What
type of drawn thread work is period.  My linen
remnants aren't long enough unless I piece them
together and Fashion in Detail shows a shirt with a
separate shoulder piece,  which is almost exactly
where I need to piece.  Help?
                        Cassandra (grumpy because sick
child is keeping her home from the museum today)



Drawnwork - I'm going to blather inanely at you, because my books I need 
to specifically reference are all at home.  ;<


"Known to England by the fifties, drawn-work was used for smocks, ruffs, 
rails, and other neckwear, besides such household as cushion-cloths of the 
kind which Bianca of "Women Beware Women" desires for the furnishing of 
her chamber." Linthicum p140

I define drawnwork as the needlework technique in which you withdraw 
either warp or weft threads, reweaving a small section at each end to 
strengthen the edges, and then catch together the remaining threads in a 
decorative fashion.  Hemstitching is a variation of drawnwork, in which 
only a couple of threads (usually weft) are withdrawn near an edge, and 
the process of catching the warp threads includes sewing down a rolled 
hem.

One of the techniques used in period to connect two pieces of fabric is 
"plaited insertion stitch."    (It is also called in various incarnations 
- interlace insertion stitch, faggoting, and braided insertion stitch.) 
For a very simplistic version, look under faggoting in the stitch glossary 
at:
http://www.classicstitches.com/know_how/index.cfm 
Plaited insertion stitch is one of the stitches used in that Italian style 
shirt in _Fashion in Detail_.  It's the one that gives the braided, almost 
lace-like, look to the seams.  Looking at the description and the picture, 
it seems to me that the seams have been hemmed using hemstitch and then 
joined using the plaited insertion stitch.

If that's too complicated/time-consuming, many of the shirts I have pics 
of have been joined with a buttonhole insertion stitch, where one side 
gets buttonholed, then the other side, giving a kind of checker block 
effect.  The blue columbine embroidered boy's shirt at the Museum of 
Costume  (good pic in Levy's Lace book of the underarm gusset) has been 
joined with a fancy version of the stitch.  The embroidered monochrome 
smock with the rainbows has the basic buttonhole insertion stitch at the 
sides.  (good pics in QEW).

Does that answer your question, or did I go off in the totally wrong 
direction?  If so, let me know which direction you'd like me to 
pontificate in.  ;>  I'll even find my books so that I make a little more 
sense...

-Magdalena
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK Interested in 'Plastic Whalebone' corset boning from Wissner?
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 23:34:18 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- sylvia <sylvia@ntw.net> wrote: > 
> I looked more carefully at the samples they sent me and their boning
> consists of a piece of plastic that is folded over twice.  It's white, quite
> narrow and very flexible.  Does anyone know what this is?

That doesn't sound like Wissner's plastic whalebone at all. Can't help you as
to what it is, only as to what it isn't. :-)

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: [h-cost] introduction + remaindered book
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 18:52:07 -0400
Status: RO

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Elisabeth has forwarded mail on occasion from me to this list and book =
recommendations back to me, but I decided that I had better join the =
list myself even if I am not a costume specialist. =20

A week or two ago, someone on this list was trying to find the Museum of =
the City of London books on the medieval artifacts they've dug up and =
Elisabeth referred her to me.  When she e-mailed me, she asked about In =
Royal Fashion, which is also published by the Museum of London and thus =
is almost impossible to get in the U.S.  Something about that title =
sounded familiar and today I managed to track it down in a recent =
catalog from a British remainder dealer. =20

This is not something I would normally carry, as I go no later than =
1650, but it occurred to me that there may be others on this list who =
would want a copy.  I would be willing to order in copies for specific =
people who let me know that they want one.  The discount isn't great for =
a remainder - list price is 14.95GBP and I would be selling it for =
$13.50 - but with the Museum of London, availability is more important =
than price and if they're sending it to the remainder dealer, they may =
be putting it out of print.

This is the catalog description:

Drawing on the Museum of London's unparalleled collection of royal =
costume, this finely presented, lavishly illustrated and detailed study =
presents the clothes of the statuesque but gauche Princess Charlotte of =
Wales and of Queen Victoria as child and bright fashionable young woman =
before widowhood reduced her choice of colour. Includes extracts from =
letters, diaries and fashion journals and discussions on authentication =
and preservation of the clothes. Colour and b&w. 11" x 9".

Sounds good to me...  Anyone who wants a copy should e-mail me by =
Sunday, September 22 as I should place my order soon before they run out =
of the things I want.  I charge $6 shipping for the first book and 50 =
cents for each additional book (this title or something else).  It will =
probably be a couple months before the books get here from England (sent =
by slow boat to save money) but your credit card will not be charged =
until they are actually here.

Janet Davis
Castle Furnishings
http://www.medievalbookstore.com=20

------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C25E7B.52660040
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http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Elisabeth has forwarded mail on =
occasion from me to=20
this list and book recommendations back to me, but I decided that I had =
better=20
join the list myself even if I am not a costume specialist.&nbsp; =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>A week or two ago, someone on this list =
was trying=20
to find the Museum of the City of London books on the medieval artifacts =
they've=20
dug up and Elisabeth referred her to me.&nbsp; When she e-mailed me, she =
asked=20
about <U>In Royal Fashion</U>, which is also published by the Museum of =
London=20
and thus is almost impossible to get in the U.S.&nbsp; Something about =
that=20
title sounded familiar and today I managed to track it down in a recent =
catalog=20
from a British remainder dealer.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>This is not something I would normally =
carry, as I=20
go no later than 1650, but it occurred to me that there may be others on =
this=20
list who would want a copy.&nbsp; I would be willing to order in copies =
for=20
specific people who let me know that they want one.&nbsp; The discount =
isn't=20
great for a remainder - list price is 14.95GBP and I would be selling it =
for=20
$13.50 - but with the Museum of London, availability is more important =
than=20
price and if they're sending it to the remainder dealer, they may be =
putting it=20
out of print.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>This is the catalog =
description:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Drawing on the Museum of London's =
unparalleled=20
collection of royal costume, this finely presented, lavishly illustrated =
and=20
detailed study presents the clothes of the statuesque but gauche =
Princess=20
Charlotte of Wales and of Queen Victoria as child and bright fashionable =
young=20
woman before widowhood reduced her choice of colour. Includes extracts =
from=20
letters, diaries and fashion journals and discussions on authentication =
and=20
preservation of the clothes. Colour and b&amp;w. 11" x 9".</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Sounds good to me...&nbsp; Anyone who =
wants a copy=20
should e-mail me by Sunday, September 22 as I should place my order soon =
before=20
they run out of the things I want.&nbsp; I charge $6 shipping for the =
first book=20
and 50 cents for each additional book (this title or something =
else).&nbsp; It=20
will probably be a couple months before the books get here from England =
(sent by=20
slow boat to save money) but your credit card will not be charged until =
they are=20
actually here.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Janet Davis<BR>Castle Furnishings<BR><A =

href=3D"http://www.medievalbookstore.com">http://www.medievalbookstore.co=
m</A>=20
</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1950s underwear?
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 18:03:19 -0500
Status: RO

Nicole,
Thanks to another member on this list, I found out about this site:
http://vickisnylons.com/
They sell the pointy bras and the seamed stockings.
Good luck on the costume!

Sheryl Nance-Durst

At 07:05 PM 9/16/02 +0100, you wrote:
>I wondered if anyone here knows (though perhaps I should ask on a vintage
>list?) I got all the missing original bits from the nice curator (re-enactor
>too :-) of the Red Cross museum for my 1950s nurse uniform and am ready to go,
>so to speak, but would like to get everything together including the proper
>underwear and stockings. I don't have a clue what women wore in the 1950s, 
>does
>anyone know of a place to find out or ask? I had a look on the net but 
>couldn't
>find much.
>Thanks!
>
>Nicole
>
>=====
>Nicole Kipar M.A.
>Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
>Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
>URL: http://www.kipar.org/
>Email: marquis@kipar.org
>
>__________________________________________________
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From: "Angela Lazear-CRC" <cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net>
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References: <000c01c25e9c$dab50240$a742a6d0@default>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] introduction + remaindered book
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 16:23:37 -0700
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I would be interested, and could probably find something in your store =
to add to the order (saw several titles that looked fun) Sorry, to all =
for not replying off list, but it wouldn't give me an email address in =
Outlook.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes=20
Theatrical Costume Design
"Nay then, let the devil wear black,=20
for I'll have a suit of sables..."
W. Shakespeare

http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
  ----- Original Message ----- =20
  From: Janet Davis=20
  To: h-costume@indra.com=20
  Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2002 3:52 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] introduction + remaindered book


  Elisabeth has forwarded mail on occasion from me to this list and book =
recommendations back to me, but I decided that I had better join the =
list myself even if I am not a costume specialist. =20

  A week or two ago, someone on this list was trying to find the Museum =
of the City of London books on the medieval artifacts they've dug up and =
Elisabeth referred her to me.  When she e-mailed me, she asked about In =
Royal Fashion, which is also published by the Museum of London and thus =
is almost impossible to get in the U.S.  Something about that title =
sounded familiar and today I managed to track it down in a recent =
catalog from a British remainder dealer. =20

  This is not something I would normally carry, as I go no later than =
1650, but it occurred to me that there may be others on this list who =
would want a copy.  I would be willing to order in copies for specific =
people who let me know that they want one.  The discount isn't great for =
a remainder - list price is 14.95GBP and I would be selling it for =
$13.50 - but with the Museum of London, availability is more important =
than price and if they're sending it to the remainder dealer, they may =
be putting it out of print.

  This is the catalog description:

  Drawing on the Museum of London's unparalleled collection of royal =
costume, this finely presented, lavishly illustrated and detailed study =
presents the clothes of the statuesque but gauche Princess Charlotte of =
Wales and of Queen Victoria as child and bright fashionable young woman =
before widowhood reduced her choice of colour. Includes extracts from =
letters, diaries and fashion journals and discussions on authentication =
and preservation of the clothes. Colour and b&w. 11" x 9".

  Sounds good to me...  Anyone who wants a copy should e-mail me by =
Sunday, September 22 as I should place my order soon before they run out =
of the things I want.  I charge $6 shipping for the first book and 50 =
cents for each additional book (this title or something else).  It will =
probably be a couple months before the books get here from England (sent =
by slow boat to save money) but your credit card will not be charged =
until they are actually here.

  Janet Davis
  Castle Furnishings
  http://www.medievalbookstore.com 
------=_NextPart_000_015A_01C25E66.93997CA0
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charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1106" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I would be interested, and could =
probably find=20
something in your store to add to the order (saw several titles that =
looked fun)=20
Sorry, to all for not replying off list, but it wouldn't give me an =
email=20
address in Outlook.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>angela</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>+++++<BR>Angela F. Lazear<BR>Cabbage =
Rose Costumes=20
<BR>Theatrical Costume Design<BR>"Nay then, let the devil wear black, =
<BR>for=20
I'll have a suit of sables..."<BR>W. Shakespeare</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com">http://www.cabbagerosecostume=
s.com</A></FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message -----&nbsp; =
</DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Dcastle@erie.net href=3D"mailto:castle@erie.net">Janet =
Davis</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dh-costume@indra.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, September 17, =
2002 3:52=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [h-cost] introduction =
+=20
  remaindered book</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Elisabeth has forwarded mail on =
occasion from me=20
  to this list and book recommendations back to me, but I decided that I =
had=20
  better join the list myself even if I am not a costume =
specialist.&nbsp;=20
  </FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>A week or two ago, someone on this =
list was=20
  trying to find the Museum of the City of London books on the medieval=20
  artifacts they've dug up and Elisabeth referred her to me.&nbsp; When =
she=20
  e-mailed me, she asked about <U>In Royal Fashion</U>, which is also =
published=20
  by the Museum of London and thus is almost impossible to get in the =
U.S.&nbsp;=20
  Something about that title sounded familiar and today I managed to =
track it=20
  down in a recent catalog from a British remainder dealer.&nbsp; =
</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>This is not something I would =
normally carry, as=20
  I go no later than 1650, but it occurred to me that there may be =
others on=20
  this list who would want a copy.&nbsp; I would be willing to order in =
copies=20
  for specific people who let me know that they want one.&nbsp; The =
discount=20
  isn't great for a remainder - list price is 14.95GBP and I would be =
selling it=20
  for $13.50 - but with the Museum of London, availability is more =
important=20
  than price and if they're sending it to the remainder dealer, they may =
be=20
  putting it out of print.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>This is the catalog =
description:</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Drawing on the Museum of London's =
unparalleled=20
  collection of royal costume, this finely presented, lavishly =
illustrated and=20
  detailed study presents the clothes of the statuesque but gauche =
Princess=20
  Charlotte of Wales and of Queen Victoria as child and bright =
fashionable young=20
  woman before widowhood reduced her choice of colour. Includes extracts =
from=20
  letters, diaries and fashion journals and discussions on =
authentication and=20
  preservation of the clothes. Colour and b&amp;w. 11" x =
9".</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Sounds good to me...&nbsp; Anyone who =
wants a=20
  copy should e-mail me by Sunday, September 22 as I should place my =
order soon=20
  before they run out of the things I want.&nbsp; I charge $6 shipping =
for the=20
  first book and 50 cents for each additional book (this title or =
something=20
  else).&nbsp; It will probably be a couple months before the books get =
here=20
  from England (sent by slow boat to save money) but your credit card =
will not=20
  be charged until they are actually here.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Janet Davis<BR>Castle =
Furnishings<BR><A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.medievalbookstore.com">http://www.medievalbookstore.co=
m</A>=20
  </FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Here is another message from Janet.  If anyone is interested in the book she 
is talking about please contact her directly.
Thanks
Elisabeth

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Here is another message from Janet. &nbsp;If anyone is interested in the book she is talking about please contact her directly.
<BR>Thanks
<BR>Elisabeth</FONT></HTML>

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Dear Elisabeth,

Maybe I should just break down and join the h-costume list.  The lady who wa=
nted the Museum of the City of London books e-mailed me a few days ago and s=
he was also looking for In Royal Fashion, another book they have published t=
hat covers Princess Charlotte of Wales and Queen Victoria.  Normally, I woul=
d have nothing to do with it, but the description rang a bell and and today=20=
I tracked it down.  One of my British remainder dealers had it in their most=
 recent catalog - the discount isn't very much, but at least the book can be=
 gotten. =20

This is too late for me to normally carry, but if others on the costume list=
 are looking for it, I could order as many copies as I can get commitments f=
or.  I'd need to order them all at once, within the next week or so - the lo=
nger I wait, the more likely they will sell out.

Anyway, thank you for bringing up the topic of books that need translating o=
r reprinting. =20

Janet

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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Dear Elisabeth,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Maybe I should just break down and join the=
=20
h-costume list.&nbsp; The lady who wanted the Museum of the City of London b=
ooks=20
e-mailed me a few days ago and she was also looking for <U>In Royal Fashion<=
/U>,=20
another book they have published that covers Princess Charlotte of Wales and=
=20
Queen Victoria.&nbsp; Normally, I would have nothing to do with it, but the=20
description rang a bell and and today I tracked it down.&nbsp; One of my Bri=
tish=20
remainder dealers had it in their most recent catalog - the discount isn't v=
ery=20
much, but at least the book can be gotten.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>This is too late for me to normally carry,=20=
but if=20
others on the costume list are looking for it, I could order as many copies=20=
as I=20
can get commitments for.&nbsp; I'd need to order them all at once, within th=
e=20
next week or so - the longer I wait, the more likely they will sell=20
out.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Anyway, thank you for bringing up the topic=
 of=20
books that need translating or reprinting.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Janet</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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I apologize to everyone.  I did not realize that Janet now is subscribed to 
the list herself.  Many of you may know her from Kalamazoo or other SCA 
events.  I know I have forwarded emails for her before.  I am so glad that 
she is now part of this group.  She can really help all of us in getting 
books!!!!!
Thank you for understanding
Elisabeth

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>I apologize to everyone. &nbsp;I did not realize that Janet now is subscribed to the list herself. &nbsp;Many of you may know her from Kalamazoo or other SCA events. &nbsp;I know I have forwarded emails for her before. &nbsp;I am so glad that she is now part of this group. &nbsp;She can really help all of us in getting books!!!!!
<BR>Thank you for understanding
<BR>Elisabeth</FONT></HTML>

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1950s underwear?
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 17:58:30 -0700
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> >>> I was a child in the 50s. My mother didn't wear a girdle either, being as
> >>> skinny as I am now, or even a bra most of the time; just a vest
> >> (?undershirt
> >>> to Americans) of knitted cotton or fine wool.
> >>>
> >>> Gee, I thought all women wore girdles in the 50s, maybe because even up
> >> to the
> >> mid 60s they were in style and thin girls like me wore them in high 
> school,
> >> although we didn't need to.
> >
> > Obviously, you didn't grow up in California ;)  I was never thin, but never
> > wore a girdle in all of the 50s-60s.  I had an aunt who would have made me
> > wear one if, indeed, everybody was wearing them (the maiden-aunt full of
> > child-raising advice).  But she stopped wearing them in the 50s, I think.
> >
> > Au contraire.  I lived most of my life in southern California.

San Diego, here.  And you?


Kayta

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Subject: [h-cost] Fabric of Society
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 19:45:54 -0700
Status: RO

>

A quick and perfunctory net search shows copies of _Fabric of Society_
currently for sale by:

John Ives, Bookseller in London
https://secure.bibliology.com/enquiry/Enquiry_Options.html?aabid=7734537

jives@btconnect.com

Pelican Bay Books in Washington state
http://www.abebooks.com/home/PELICANBAY/
pelican@anacortes.net

Basilisk Bookshop in Australia
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~basilisk/index.html
basbooks@bigpond.net.au

Tacoma Book Center in Washington state
http://www.abebooks.com/home/TACBOOKS/
tacbooks@earthlink.net

Webster's Bookstore Cafe in Pennsylvania
http://www.abebooks.com/home/ZEPPELIN/
orders@webstersbookstorecafe.com

Last Exit Books in Brooklyn, New York
http://www.abebooks.com/home/LASTEXIT/
lastexit@inch.com

Winged Monkey Books in Virginia
gppainter@yahoo.com

Tell Me a Story in Canada
http://dogbert.abebooks.com/abe/ClientHome?clientId=263760
jbtedlie@shaw.ca

Highland Book City in California
http://www.abebooks.com/home/BOOKCITYHIGHLAND/
bookcityhighland@sbcglobal.net

City Book Service in Virginia
bookcityhighland@sbcglobal.net

Black Oak Books in California
http://www.abebooks.com/home/BLACKOAK/
blackoak@infoconex.com

Fran



> Has
> anyone ever seen a copy of Fabric of Society by Tozer
> and Levitt for sale somewhere?  As far as I can tell
> it was an exhibition book printed in 1983 and it has
> some really great photos from the costume museum at
> Bath, great for my current  museum project but,but
> ,but
> the library where I usually check it out has pulled
> their copy because it was falling apart.  They won't
> repair it because it's not a high use item and they
> won't sell me the damaged copy.  Now I have to
> interlibrary loan it from the local university.
> Extreme hassle when I just need access to one chapter.
> I understand the theft angle (husband collects rare
> books) but the difficulty in getting information
> sometimes just drives me nuts, especially when I know
> the info is out there.
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1950s underwear?
From: sylvia <sylvia@ntw.net>
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 20:39:20 -0600
Status: RO

on 9/17/02 6:58 PM, Carolyn Kayta Barrows at kayta@frys.com wrote:

> 
>>>>> I was a child in the 50s. My mother didn't wear a girdle either, being as
>>>>> skinny as I am now, or even a bra most of the time; just a vest
>>>> (?undershirt
>>>>> to Americans) of knitted cotton or fine wool.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Gee, I thought all women wore girdles in the 50s, maybe because even up
>>>> to the
>>>> mid 60s they were in style and thin girls like me wore them in high
>> school,
>>>> although we didn't need to.
>>> 
>>> Obviously, you didn't grow up in California ;)  I was never thin, but never
>>> wore a girdle in all of the 50s-60s.  I had an aunt who would have made me
>>> wear one if, indeed, everybody was wearing them (the maiden-aunt full of
>>> child-raising advice).  But she stopped wearing them in the 50s, I think.
>>> 
>>> Au contraire.  I lived most of my life in southern California.
> 
> San Diego, here.  And you?

Temple City and Arcadia in the San Gabriel Valley next to Pasadena.

Sylvia

PS>  And I'm not thin anymore but I'll never wear a girdle again! ;-)
> 
> 
>

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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 23:22:00 -0400
Status: RO

Hi. I have been to two CostumeCons on the East Coast (and honored to be a
judge at one of them), and the Historical Costume section, although small by
comparison to the Fantasy stuff, was nevertheless well represented. There were
entrants in all categories of both skill and historical period. I was quite
impressed with all of the skill and work that went into the costuming. In the
end, I wished that no one had to compete, as everyone had done such a great
job in their area. Of course, when you throw your hat into the ring, you stand
the chance of coming in second place. I hope the CC21 has as great competitors
as those I got to see.  Mike T.


>

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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 01:53:56 -0500
Status: RO

Tasha McGann wrote:

> book version at a reasonable price. I also gladly
> spent two hours and $70 to copy _A Pictorial History
> of Embroidery_, color plates included, because that
> $300-$400 price tag is just out of my budget range for
> such things. If the book were re-issued for $100,
> brand-new, I'd make it happen and save my copied
> version as a set of handy one-offs to show others as
> needed.

I have a photocopy of Schuette as well as the book.  I refuse to bring
the book to outdoor events -- too expensive to replace.

--Charlene

-- 
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to be serious when they laugh. -- George Bernard Shaw
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] copies and rare books; was: International Copyrights
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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 01:56:17 -0500
Status: RO

Lavolta Press wrote:

> If there many illegal copies, this has weakened the market and the
> publisher is less likely to reprint. Many people _won't_ bother
> replacing their photocopy with "the real thing."

True that many people may not replace their copies.  I, however, always
buy the book if it's available.  Once I've bought the book I toss my
copy -- with the except of the Schuette photocopy which I use when I
don't want to risk harm to the actual book.  Doesn't make it legal, but
it easies my conscience about making copies.

--Charlene

-- 
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to be serious when they laugh. -- George Bernard Shaw
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1950s underwear?
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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 08:39:54 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

Thank you everyone for all those suggestions, web page addresses, information
and first hand experience. I have a lot to go from now, cheers! The pointed
bras look really hilarious, I think I have to get one, after all, it's
authentic (and it's funny!)
Tim also gave me a sheet with detailed information on how things were worn for
different years, and apparently the stockings are supposed to be grey
(1954-1956) and then beige (1957-1960). I think I go for the 54-56 look, I
prefer beige stockings.
Now I just have to find a source for simple, sturdy, black lace-up shoes. There
must be something here in the UK for uniform shoes or such. I'll check around.
Thank you everyone! When I have the stuff together I promise a photo of me as
Nursie. (for those in the UK, yes, I DO look like a nurse in one of the Carry
On films. hehehe)

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hems (and pleats)
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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 09:24:53 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> 

> Tell you what, you can owe them to me for Kirby Hall next year if I turn 

No Kirby Hall next year I'm afraid.

> up with my green dress embroidered at hem, cuffs and neck.  I have 

*grins* Sounds like a big project.

> measured the lengths, I have the cloth sitting on the table to cut the 
> strips... I HATE embroidery, and I've never yet finished anything!  This 
> is the real challenge for the winter.  How many other garments will I 
> make to avoid doing embroidery?

Hmm.. if you hate it so much, there isn't by any chance something else you
could do? I am a firm beiever in not forcing oneself into doing something one
hates. Would be such a shame. Your project though sound yummy!

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Thread-Topic: [h-cost] Going to SF
From: "freyalyn" <freyalyn@ivillage.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Going to SF
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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 01:24:30 -0700
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Thankyou for helping me out here (sorry it's been so long before I got
back to you, but life,you know.....)

My travels to and from SF are a bit complicated - I'm flying in on
Wednesday October 23, meeting some friends who are flying in from the
east coast (theoretically we will all end up in the same place at the
same time). We then spend two days together in Northern California and
then drive up to Lake Tahoe, where I have a week at SOAR (the Spin Off
Autumn Retreat, which is my main reason for being in the US as I won a
scholar ship for this).

The following Sunday I get myself back down the SF and am staying with
some people until the Wednesday evening when I fly back to the UK. So I
think my only time for wandering SF in detail is on the Tuesday
(November 5).

Are all these places fairly central and easy to get to, or is it pretty
complicated? And if you're free that day, I'd love to meet. But if you
can't get time off, don't worry.

Many thank for all your help.

Freyalyn the getting-rapidly-more-fatigued-in-advance-by-the-moment.....



_______________________________________________________________
Sign up for FREE iVillage newsletters <http://s.ivillage.com/rd/16705> .
>From health and pregnancy to shopping and relationships, iVillage
has the scoop on what matters most to you. 

<-----Original Message----->
> 
> From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows
> Sent: 9/13/2002 10:07:18 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Going to SF
> 
> Britex is pricey, but it's the best we have up here. General Bead is
good, 
> for beads, antique sequins, etc. The Jessica McClintock outlet has
last 
> seasons' dress appliques, usually at like 5/$1. And there are many 
> discount places. Would you like a local tour-guide (hint, hint)?
> 
> >Oh, oh, can people please let me know what's exciting in the textiley
line 
> >in San Francisco as well, as I'm going at the end of October.
> >
> >Please?
> >
> >Freyalyn
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________________________
> >Sign up for FREE iVillage newsletters.
> From health and pregnancy to shopping and relationships, iVillage
> >has the scoop on what matters most to you.
> >
> >
> >
> > From: Stephen Bergdahl
> > Sent: 9/12/2002 11:48:03 PM
> > To: h-costume@indra.com
> > Subject: [h-cost] Going to LA
> >
> >
> > Well I am going to LA and I was wondering if anyone could make some
> > recommendations on Fabric shops to see. We will be making a
pilgrimage
> > to the Garment Distract, but better info is always welcome.
> > --
> > Stephen Bergdahl
> > www.2xtreme.net/madly/Home_Page.htm
> >
> > Co-Chair Costume-Con 24 Bid
> > www.2xtreme.net/madly/Costuming101/Costume-Con24/Frames.html
> >
> > Instructor for www.costumeclassroom.com
> > Elizabethan Era Clothing and Underpinnings
> > Online Classes in Historical and Modern Sewing
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > .
> >
> 
> 
> Kayta
> 
> //// \\\
> ////-@@\\\
> (((( 7 )))
> ((( ))))
> ) ((((((
> /----\ /---\))
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> .
> 


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<HTML>
<BODY>
Thankyou for helping me out here (sorry it's been so long before I got back to you, but life,you know.....)<br>
<br>
My travels to and from SF are a bit complicated - I'm flying in on Wednesday October 23, meeting some friends who are flying in from the east coast (theoretically we will all end up in the same place at the same time).  We then spend two days together in Northern California and then drive up to Lake Tahoe, where I have a week at SOAR (the Spin Off Autumn Retreat, which is my main reason for being in the US as I won a scholar ship for this).<br>
<br>
The following Sunday I get myself back down the SF and am staying with some people until the Wednesday evening when I fly back to the UK.  So I think my only time for wandering SF in detail is on the Tuesday (November 5).<br>
<br>
Are all these places fairly central and easy to get to, or is it pretty complicated?  And if you're free that day, I'd love to meet.  But if you can't get time off, don't worry.<br>
<br>
Many thank for all your help.<br>
<br>
Freyalyn the getting-rapidly-more-fatigued-in-advance-by-the-moment.....<br>
<br>

</BODY></HTML>
<BR><font face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2" style="font-size:13.5px">_______________________________________________________________<BR>Sign up for <A HREF="http://s.ivillage.com/rd/16705">FREE iVillage newsletters</A>.<BR>From health and pregnancy to shopping and relationships, iVillage<BR>has the scoop on what matters most to you.

</font><br><br><-----Original Message-----><br>
>  <br>
> From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows<br>
> Sent: 9/13/2002 10:07:18 PM<br>
> To: h-costume@indra.com<br>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Going to SF<br>
> <br>
> Britex is pricey, but it's the best we have up here. General Bead is good, <br>
> for beads, antique sequins, etc. The Jessica McClintock outlet has last <br>
> seasons' dress appliques, usually at like 5/$1. And there are many <br>
> discount places. Would you like a local tour-guide (hint, hint)?<br>
> <br>
> >Oh, oh, can people please let me know what's exciting in the textiley line <br>
> >in San Francisco as well, as I'm going at the end of October.<br>
> ><br>
> >Please?<br>
> ><br>
> >Freyalyn<br>
> ><br>
> ><br>
> >_______________________________________________________________<br>
> >Sign up for FREE iVillage newsletters.<br>
> From health and pregnancy to shopping and relationships, iVillage<br>
> >has the scoop on what matters most to you.<br>
> ><br>
> ><br>
> ><br>
> > From: Stephen Bergdahl<br>
> > Sent: 9/12/2002 11:48:03 PM<br>
> > To: h-costume@indra.com<br>
> > Subject: [h-cost] Going to LA<br>
> ><br>
> ><br>
> > Well I am going to LA and I was wondering if anyone could make some<br>
> > recommendations on Fabric shops to see. We will be making a pilgrimage<br>
> > to the Garment Distract, but better info is always welcome.<br>
> > --<br>
> > Stephen Bergdahl<br>
> > www.2xtreme.net/madly/Home_Page.htm<br>
> ><br>
> > Co-Chair Costume-Con 24 Bid<br>
> > www.2xtreme.net/madly/Costuming101/Costume-Con24/Frames.html<br>
> ><br>
> > Instructor for www.costumeclassroom.com<br>
> > Elizabethan Era Clothing and Underpinnings<br>
> > Online Classes in Historical and Modern Sewing<br>
> > _______________________________________________<br>
> > h-costume mailing list<br>
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com<br>
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<br>
> > .<br>
> ><br>
> <br>
> <br>
> Kayta<br>
> <br>
>  //// \\\<br>
>  ////-@@\\\<br>
>  (((( 7 )))<br>
>  (((  ))))<br>
>  ) ((((((<br>
> /----\ /---\))<br>
> <br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> h-costume mailing list<br>
> h-costume@mail.indra.com<br>
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<br>
> .<br>
> <br>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1950s underwear?
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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 09:26:42 +0100
Status: RO

Sylvia R wrote:
 
>Gee, I thought all women wore girdles in the 50s, maybe because even up >to the mid 60s they were in style and thin girls like me wore them in high >school, although we didn't need to.

Yes, I think I was the only girl in my class who didn't wear a girdle (they were called "roll-ons" by then). I suppose Mum and I were not very fashion-conscious. Personally, I loathed stockings and suspenders, and was really glad I only had to wear them for a few years before tights (pantyhose) came in.




Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK Interested in 'Plastic Whalebone' corset boningfrom Wissner?
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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 09:27:55 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote: > 

> bit. The boning i got was the narrowest they had and it is 12 m.m. wide. You

Ahhh, Bjarne, you and them might not have understood each other. I have their
catalogue and their samples (some of them) the narrowest they do is actually
3.5 mm! they also do different thicknesses. 12 mm is their WIDEST.
They do 3.5, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 10, 12 mm

I am loking forward to the boning!

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 10:07:35 +0100
Status: RO

Jean Waddie wrote:

>Can anyone think of a British regiment whose dress uniform reflects 
>actual day-to-day garments later than 1900?  (I'm talking Army here, RAF 
>and women don't count, and the Royal Navy has mostly updated).

I'm no uniform expert, but I guess they're all versions of styles worn in the pre-khaki era. Wasn't khaki first worn in the Boer War?

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 10:15:28 +0100
Status: RO

>Now I just have to find a source for simple, sturdy, black lace-up shoes.
There
must be something here in the UK for uniform shoes or such

Doc Martens still do them there is a factory shop in Whetstone
Leicestershire. I have some myself lovely :)

Mel

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Going to SF
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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 02:15:41 -0700
Status: RO


>Are all these places fairly central and easy to get to, or is it pretty 
>complicated?

San Francisco and Lake Tahoe are on opposite sides of the state, the narrow 
way.  Driving time may be 3 hours, or 4, I'm not sure, but there's a direct 
freeway connexion between San Francisco and one end of Lake Tahoe.  Los 
Angeles is 8 hours south of San Francisco, by freeway, and Mexico another 2 
hours south of that.

>  And if you're free that day, I'd love to meet. But if you can't get time 
> off, don't worry.

I'm unemployed, and likely to stay that way, just the luck.  So this day, 
Tuesday (November 5), is fine with me.


Kayta

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/----\   /---\))

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Thread-Topic: [h-cost] Going to SF
From: "freyalyn" <freyalyn@ivillage.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Going to SF
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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 04:43:19 -0700
Status: RO

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Hi Kayta, can you get this off list, I can't get my stupid e-mail to
give me your individual address, it will only send to the list. I'm on
freyalyn@ivillage.com

I meant the places you originally mentioned within SF - could we visit
them all in a day?? Is there anything else you think you'd like to show
me? Let me know and we'll work out where and when to meet.

Freyalyn



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<-----Original Message----->
> 
> From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows
> Sent: 9/18/2002 10:14:41 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Going to SF
> 
> 
> >Are all these places fairly central and easy to get to, or is it
pretty 
> >complicated?
> 
> San Francisco and Lake Tahoe are on opposite sides of the state, the
narrow 
> way. Driving time may be 3 hours, or 4, I'm not sure, but there's a
direct 
> freeway connexion between San Francisco and one end of Lake Tahoe. Los
> Angeles is 8 hours south of San Francisco, by freeway, and Mexico
another 2 
> hours south of that.
> 
> And if you're free that day, I'd love to meet. But if you can't get
time 
> off, don't worry.
> 
> I'm unemployed, and likely to stay that way, just the luck. So this
day, 
> Tuesday (November 5), is fine with me.
> 
> 
> Kayta
> 
> //// \\\
> ////-@@\\\
> (((( 7 )))
> ((( ))))
> ) ((((((
> /----\ /---\))
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> .
> 


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<HTML>
<BODY>
Hi Kayta, can you get this off list, I can't get my stupid e-mail to give me your individual address, it will only send to the list.  I'm on freyalyn@ivillage.com<br>
<br>
I meant the places you originally mentioned within SF - could we visit them all in a day??  Is there anything else you think you'd like to show me?  Let me know and we'll work out where and when to meet.<br>
<br>
Freyalyn<br>
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</font><br><br><-----Original Message-----><br>
>  <br>
> From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows<br>
> Sent: 9/18/2002 10:14:41 AM<br>
> To: h-costume@indra.com<br>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Going to SF<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> >Are all these places fairly central and easy to get to, or is it pretty <br>
> >complicated?<br>
> <br>
> San Francisco and Lake Tahoe are on opposite sides of the state, the narrow <br>
> way. Driving time may be 3 hours, or 4, I'm not sure, but there's a direct <br>
> freeway connexion between San Francisco and one end of Lake Tahoe. Los <br>
> Angeles is 8 hours south of San Francisco, by freeway, and Mexico another 2 <br>
> hours south of that.<br>
> <br>
> And if you're free that day, I'd love to meet. But if you can't get time <br>
> off, don't worry.<br>
> <br>
> I'm unemployed, and likely to stay that way, just the luck. So this day, <br>
> Tuesday (November 5), is fine with me.<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> Kayta<br>
> <br>
>  //// \\\<br>
>  ////-@@\\\<br>
>  (((( 7 )))<br>
>  (((  ))))<br>
>  ) ((((((<br>
> /----\ /---\))<br>
> <br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> h-costume mailing list<br>
> h-costume@mail.indra.com<br>
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<br>
> .<br>
> <br>

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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 07:05:32 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

 
 

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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 07:23:52 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

thanks Janet for coming on-list about In Royal
Fashion.  Almost everyone I know dresses more than one
time period.
   Thanks Fran, I'll start peering at your suggested
links later today.  My computer didn't come up with
anything for Fabric of Society but it seems to really
hate book titles, no matter what they are.  Even when
I know something is out there and where a title search
won't show it.  Eventually I'll have my teen-ager
teach me how to do this right.
   Magdalena,  You sound like exactly the person I
need to get talking about drawn thread work.  I've
been peering at the Fashion in Detail and trying to
relate what I'm seeing and reading to the stitch
diagrams in a book called White Work Embroidery by
Barbara Dawson.  It's more a dictionary of types of
whitework but it does have photos of work in progress
so you can see how to make the stitches and a bit of
history of each type of whitewok.  I'm presuming that
it was fabric that was expensive so someone might
piece together lengths that weren't quite long enough
by putting in a yoke or shoulder piece and then
decorate the piece because (like a cat) I meant to do
that anyway.  I gather that fabric was not a throw
away commodity in this timeframe and getting linen
here, even now at the end of the season, is not cheap
or even possible.  I've hit the end of season sales
and am trying to strip some colors out to redye a more
period shade but I hate to order off-line fabrics
until I'm more familiar with linen and silk.  I did
find some nice white linen, reasonably fine for shifts
which is 54 inches wide but it is a border print for
skirts so the useable width is only about 44 inches
but as 2.88us @ yd I'll take it and cut off the border
print.  Scraps are a great practice area to learn what
I'm doing as to thread size and stitch patterns. 
Would they have used hem-stitching and blackwork on
the same garment?  Can I hemstitch the pieces together
and then blackwork the cuffs and collar and shoulder
piece?  What about covering the shoulder piece with
one of the blackwork filler stitches that  were
recently put up as Bronwen's Blackwork?  Thanks for
all the info everyone, I'm beginning to feel less lost
in the Elizabethan timeframe.
                        Cassandra  


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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: CostumeCon21
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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 16:21:34 +0000 (GMT)
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> All right, now, you guys....I've never *been* to a Costume
> Con....Are they worth going to? What happens at one? Dish, please!
> --sue, who thinks it conflicts with a Kingdom (SCA) event, but
> who'd like to (maybe) come anyway, if she can afford it 

I've never been to one either, but I've helped run the English/UK 
version a couple of times.  If the US ones are in any way similar...

Main events are usually the masquerades... costume competitions 
where you get to show of your really spiffy costumes.  Not just by 
*wearing* them but by *presenting* them (Judges and audience 
can only be entertained by so many "Woman in a Frock"  entries 
where the entrant simply walks on, does a twirl and walks off.....!) 
in some way.  Over here we have 3 masquerades (Science 
fiction/fantasy, Historical and "Anything goes"... I suspect the 
"antyhing goes" category is absorbed into the "SF and Fantasy" 
category at US conventions as I don't see it listed for CC21

Plus, there are talks, workshops, panel deiscussions etc - all 
related to costumes and costuming.   Take a look at the Costume 
Con 21 webpages to see the sort of things Karen's plkanning for 
the program and the other stuff that's listed there.  Some of it's not-
confirmed yet,  but it looks like a good variety of stuff on offer..



Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1950s underwear?
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Status: RO


> Now I just have to find a source for simple, sturdy, black lace-up shoes.

Black?  I thought nurses always wore white shoes...

Pam Dotson
Everett, WA  USA


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One of the internet fabric dealers has 16mm silk georgette at a good =
price but I don't know what the fabric will be like.  Would that be =
dress weight, blouse weight, veil weight?

Janet

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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>One of the internet fabric dealers has =
16mm silk=20
georgette at a good price but I don't know what the fabric will be =
like.&nbsp;=20
Would that be dress weight, blouse weight, veil weight?</FONT></DIV>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1950s underwear?
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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 17:40:10 +0100 (BST)
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 --- David <someone@eskimo.com> wrote: > 
> > Now I just have to find a source for simple, sturdy, black lace-up shoes.
> 
> Black?  I thought nurses always wore white shoes...

Not red cross nurses,and not in the UK and not in the 1950s, apparently. :-)
A red cross nurse is not like a nurse in a hospital either.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 17:54:24 +0100
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>Not red cross nurses,and not in the UK and not in the 1950s, apparently.
:-)
A red cross nurse is not like a nurse in a hospital either.



More running about in fields & warzones (rueful grin)

Any luck with the Docs ?

Mel
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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 13:19:20 -0400
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Hi all!

In traveling to Washington, D.C. this past July, I recalled someone's suggetion about alternatives to scissors for those of us who cannot imagine a 7 hour flight without something to do with our hands!  The dental floss case has a cutting edge which is excellent for threads.   My needles posed no problem going through (I had them in the material with some thread in it.) My scissors I did have packed in my checked luggage, but on the way back, I forgot and carried on my thread snips (like you buy at JoAnn's with the plastic casing)in my carry on luggage and it was promptly confiscated by security!!   Thank goodness I still had my dental floss in my purse!

This is just to say -- be careful when you travel at this time, but for the determined costumer -- Have needle, will travel!!

Donna (who's planning other trips in October & November!)
Fyne Hats By Felicity
Period Headgear for Past Ages
www.fynehatsbyfelicity.com 


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That's lighweight fabric weight.  mm stands for momme.

poly chiffon is about the equivalent of 5-6 mm,
Chinese silk (the stuff cheap silk shirts are made of) is 8mm,
Cotton broadcloth is about the equivalent of 10 mm,
poly taffeta is about the equivalent of 20-25 mm (give or take the =
quality),
And Upholsety velvet is about the equivalent of 35+mm.

Hope this helps!
Brandy


  One of the internet fabric dealers has 16mm silk georgette at a good =
price but I don't know what the fabric will be like.  Would that be =
dress weight, blouse weight, veil weight?

  Janet

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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>That's lighweight fabric weight.&nbsp; =
mm stands=20
for momme.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>poly chiffon is about the equivalent of =
5-6=20
mm,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Chinese silk (the stuff cheap silk =
shirts are made=20
of) is 8mm,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Cotton broadcloth is about the =
equivalent of 10=20
mm,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>poly taffeta is about the equivalent of =
20-25 mm=20
(give or take the quality),</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>And Upholsety velvet is about the =
equivalent of=20
35+mm.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hope this helps!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Brandy</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>One of the internet fabric dealers =
has 16mm silk=20
  georgette at a good price but I don't know what the fabric will be =
like.&nbsp;=20
  Would that be dress weight, blouse weight, veil weight?</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2>Janet</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 13:49:11 -0500
Status: RO

Ok,

8mm Habotai is the weight you generally find in those painted silk scarves.

I am fairly certain that 16mm Georgette would be at least blouse weight.
-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Sep 18 15:50:17 2002
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From: Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Need help with Country and western dress" Thanks!
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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 13:45:10 -0600
Status: RO

On Tue, Sep 17, 2002 at 10:49:34AM +0200, Deredere & Owen Iskander wrote:
> The dress I made is now on my website!
> http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/CostumeG/Country&Western.html

Great job!  I really like the style and details.


					...eliz
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Debbie=20Lough?= <debbie_lough@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] question about silk
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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 20:55:00 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

Georgette is a very fine, very lightweight flimsy,
floaty type of silk, which normally comes in approx
30" widths, and all sorts of colours.

Hope this helps,
Debbie

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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 22:34:38 +0000
Status: RO

My mother, who was of an upper-middle class upbringing that had tinges of 
"Old South" to it, graduated High School in 1957. She told me that she 
stopped wearing a girdle in the 70's.

Mary/Katerine

>Obviously, you didn't grow up in California ;)  I was never thin, but never 
>wore a girdle in all of the 50s-60s.  I had an aunt who would have made me 
>wear one if, indeed, everybody was wearing them (the maiden-aunt full of 
>child-raising advice).  But she stopped wearing them in the 50s, I think.
>
>
>Kayta
>




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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 15:40:29 -0700
Status: RO

I travel for a living and always have some sort of hand work with me.  I
have the thread cutter ring and have also never been stopped with the
thread snips that look like a pen.  It is in my briefcase right along
side all my ball point pens.  I also have a pair of compression 'kid'
scissors.  They have plastic handles but metal blades incased in
plastic.  Security has looked at them, but never confiscated them.  I
can cut ribbon, and such with those.

Saragrace

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Sep 18 20:21:51 2002
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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 20:15:41 -0400
Status: RO

Gods, what an AWFUL creation...  How to annoy reenactors in _every_ period
all at once, eh?  ;D

-- Mara

>Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
>> 
>> VICTORIAN COLONIAL Costume LONG DRESS - SCA
>> Item # 714386217
>> 
>> One dress for all your costuming needs!

Kevin + Mara Riley

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Sep 18 20:37:47 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] I think there is an essential flaw in my cunning
  plan for an Elizabethian
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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 20:30:49 -0400
Status: RO

Is this Drea's style of gathered kirtle?
If so, you _might_ be able to wear it through most of your pregnancy
anyway, just by changing how tightly you lace it.

(Caveat -- I have NO experience in this myself, so...)

We had a discussion about 19th c. fashions and pregnancy on the 19thCWoman
list a week or so ago.  Some of the ladies who have worn mid-Victorian
clothes while pregnant said that the full skirts accomodated most of their
size change, until maybe the last two months of pregnancy.  I've noticed in
pictures of 18th c. pregnant women that they tend to leave their stays
loose at the bottom (you can't see the stays, but I'm guessing they just
started the lacing higher up), and to wear their petticoats and aprons
higher up as well; so they didn't need a separate set of clothing just for
being pregnant (very practical, considering how much time women spent being
pregnant...)

I suspect that Drea's kirtle pattern would work in a similar fashion  --
the skirts are very full, and the kirtle laces up in back, so it can expand
a bit.

Cheers,
Mara

At 05:01 PM 9/16/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>Well, maybe not a flaw, but definately a complication.
>To recap, I want to make a gathered kirtle out of linen, to be worn under
a loose gown made out of wool.
>Then, last month, just as I was preparing to draft the patterns...I found
out that I am pregnant.  Now I'm quite happy about the pregnancy but it
does rather complicate matters wrt the sewing :)
>
>Since at nine weeks I'm already starting to show, I figure that I'm going
to get pretty huge, and I want this to be a outfit that I can wear for most
of my pregnancy.
>
>My plan right now is to do the following.  I will add several inches (I'm
thinking around 4) to all of the seams of the kirtle  I will then sew all
of the seams 3 times, so that as I expand the kirtle can expand with me.  I
will do the same thing to the gown.  
>However, I'm not quite sure if this will be enough room for expansion, or
for that matter if I am underestimating the ability of a kirtle and/or a
gown to expand.
>
>thanks,
>Katie

Kevin + Mara Riley

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From: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] copies and rare books; was: International
  Copyrights
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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 20:46:00 -0400
Status: RO

At 11:35 AM 9/17/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>> (Fran) A lot of people
>> making their own copies does incrementally cut into
>> sales, or, if the work is
>> out of print, the value of reprinting it.
>> Fran
>
> (Tasha) Hhhhmmm. Not so sure if I agree with this when it
>comes to out-of-print books. It seems to me that an
>excess of copies being passed around is a sure sign
>that a book is woefully needed on the market. A
>re-issue would gladly be snapped up by almost all of
>the copy-havers, in addition to a nameless mass of
>folks who don't even yet have copies but will take the
>path of least resistence once they know the book is
>available again for a reasonable price.

Agreed.  I had a copy-of-a-copy-of-a-copy of McClintock's book on Irish and
Highland Dress.  Unicorn Books got permission to reproduce it (in copy
form, not hardcover), and you can bet I jumped at the opportunity.  I'd
MUCH rather have a good-quality original than a fair or bad-quality copy.
If the publishers would bring several other good costume books back into
print, I'd do the same...  I've spent way too much money (need to make a
list for my insurance records, in case of fire!) on alibris and bibliofind
buying out of print books, but some of them simply can't be obtained for
love or money, regardless.  Case in point -- Montgomery's _Textiles in
America_.  I have a copy on loan from a friend, but that book desperately
needs to be reprinted; I'm not the only reenactor who wants one, and I
can't afford to pay $250+ for my own copy right now!

-- Mara
Kevin + Mara Riley

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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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	cunningplan for an Elizabethian
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 08:58:23 +0100
Status: RO

Mara wrote:

>We had a discussion about 19th c. fashions and pregnancy on the >19thCWoman
>list a week or so ago.  Some of the ladies who have worn mid-Victorian
>clothes while pregnant said that the full skirts accomodated most of their
>size change, until maybe the last two months of pregnancy.  I've noticed in
>pictures of 18th c. pregnant women that they tend to leave their stays
>loose at the bottom (you can't see the stays, but I'm guessing they just
>started the lacing higher up), and to wear their petticoats and aprons
>higher up as well; so they didn't need a separate set of clothing just for
>being pregnant (very practical, considering how much time women spent >being pregnant...)

Yes, it used to intrigue me that none of the historical costume books mentioned maternity clothes, seeing that it was normal for women of all classes to have a baby every year (well, I did once see a Regency maternity dress.) But of course they mostly just adapted their normal clothing.




Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 02:17:48 -0700
Status: RO

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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I'm not on Outlook, this is my personal address not work, and it's not
good at that sort of thing. Strips lots of extra informaton that Outlook
would let through. Drat.....



_______________________________________________________________
Sign up for FREE iVillage newsletters <http://s.ivillage.com/rd/16705> .
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<-----Original Message----->
> 
> From: Rowena
> Sent: 9/18/2002 4:07:38 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Going to SF
> 
> 
> If you are using Outlook Explorer, then put your pointer over where
all the headers are listed - the 
> From Subject Received list, not over the expanded message itself.
Right click - this should bring 
> up a menu. Clicking on properties should then show you what even the
hidden address is.
> 
> 
> Hi -, can you get this off list, I can't get my stupid e-mail to give
me your individual address, it 
> will only send to the list.


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<HTML>
<BODY>
I'm not on Outlook, this is my personal address not work, and it's not good at that sort of thing.  Strips lots of extra informaton that Outlook would let through.  Drat.....<br>
<br>

</BODY></HTML>
<BR><font face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2" style="font-size:13.5px">_______________________________________________________________<BR>Sign up for <A HREF="http://s.ivillage.com/rd/16705">FREE iVillage newsletters</A>.<BR>From health and pregnancy to shopping and relationships, iVillage<BR>has the scoop on what matters most to you.

</font><br><br><-----Original Message-----><br>
>  <br>
> From: Rowena<br>
> Sent: 9/18/2002 4:07:38 PM<br>
> To: h-costume@indra.com<br>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Going to SF<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> If you are using Outlook Explorer, then put your pointer over where all the headers are listed - the <br>
> From Subject Received list, not over the expanded message itself.   Right click - this should bring <br>
> up a menu.  Clicking on properties should then show you what even the hidden address is.<br>
>  <br>
>  <br>
> Hi -, can you get this off list, I can't get my stupid e-mail to give me your individual address, it <br>
> will only send to the list.<br>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] funniest e-bay title yet
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 03:04:48 -0700
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>Gods, what an AWFUL creation...  How to annoy reenactors in _every_ period
>all at once, eh?  ;D

OTOH, today I saw one that looked like it was going to be even funnier, 
starting out something like "Medieval SCA Victorian", but then it said 
"Hoops".  I can imagine talking one set of hoops into being several 
different periods - my only set of hoops is adjustable for a few different 
decades.


Kayta

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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 11:14:43 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Hi H-Costumers!

Short note to say. "Bye,"  for a while at least. An idiot at work 
(where my e-mail is) circulated spam to the entire organisation so 
the dreaded crackdown on personal e-mails has happened.

I'm gonna have to unsub for a while to reduce the through traffic on 
my account.

I'll miss this list!



Teddy
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 07:11:55 -0600
Status: RO

Oh, Teddy....Say it isn't so! It just won't be the same! *sniff* Come
back soon! *sniff*
--Sue, still sorting through stuff from the trip, and still regretting
that she didn't get a picture of you and Tom....

Teddy wrote:
> 
> Hi H-Costumers!
> 
> Short note to say. "Bye,"  for a while at least. An idiot at work
> (where my e-mail is) circulated spam to the entire organisation so
> the dreaded crackdown on personal e-mails has happened.
> 
> I'm gonna have to unsub for a while to reduce the through traffic on
> my account.
> 
> I'll miss this list!
> 
> Teddy
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 08:17:33 -0500
Status: RO

Waaaaaahhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!  8-(


Karen


On Thu, 19 Sep 2002 11:14:43 +0000 (GMT) Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> writes:
> Hi H-Costumers!
> 
> Short note to say. "Bye,"  for a while at least. An idiot at work 
> (where my e-mail is) circulated spam to the entire organisation so 
> the dreaded crackdown on personal e-mails has happened.
> 
> I'm gonna have to unsub for a while to reduce the through traffic on 
> 
> my account.
> 
> I'll miss this list!
> 
> 
> 
> Teddy
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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From: Linda Krecker-Schkred <rhianwen@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] I think there is an essential flaw in my	cunningplan for
 an Elizabethian
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 09:36:32 -0400
Status: RO

At 8:58 AM +0100 9/19/02, Kate M Bunting wrote:
When I was working at U of A in Tucson's Theatre department i came 
across a Victorian maternity dress. It was of black silk taffeta, a 
one piece with a good number of seams and pattern pieces. I can't 
remember much about it except to say it was rather wide in the middle 
so must have been for the last few months of pregnancy. Whether 
something like it would be in any history books or even a magazine, I 
don't know. It certainly is worthy of some more study.
Rhianwen


>Mara wrote:
>
>>We had a discussion about 19th c. fashions and pregnancy on the >19thCWoman
>>list a week or so ago.  Some of the ladies who have worn mid-Victorian
>>clothes while pregnant said that the full skirts accomodated most of their
>>size change, until maybe the last two months of pregnancy.  I've noticed in
>>pictures of 18th c. pregnant women that they tend to leave their stays
>>loose at the bottom (you can't see the stays, but I'm guessing they just
>>started the lacing higher up), and to wear their petticoats and aprons
>>higher up as well; so they didn't need a separate set of clothing just for
>>being pregnant (very practical, considering how much time women 
>>spent >being pregnant...)
>
>Yes, it used to intrigue me that none of the historical costume 
>books mentioned maternity clothes, seeing that it was normal for 
>women of all classes to have a baby every year (well, I did once see 
>a Regency maternity dress.) But of course they mostly just adapted 
>their normal clothing.
>
>
>
>
>Kate Bunting
>Library, University of Derby
>
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 15:12:24 BST
Status: RO

Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote :

> Oh, Teddy....Say it isn't so! It just won't be the same! *sniff* Come
> back soon! *sniff*
> --Sue, still sorting through stuff from the trip, and still regretting
> that she didn't get a picture of you and Tom....


Lots of pictures of Teddy, and Tom, and assorted mad friends, can be found here:

http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/farisles/lst?&.dir=/&.src=gr&.view=l&.begin=1




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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 10:17:19 -0400
Status: RO



I just want to correct a misconception here. While big families were common
in the past, even the recent past, it's going too far to say that "a baby a
year" was common for people of all classes at every time in the past,
implying that "common" means "universal." Relatively small families of six
or so have always been common, and even accounting for higher infant
mortality people often spaced them out. Breastfeeding has a natural
contraceptive affect that doesn't work for every woman, but that generally
spaces children two years apart. Of course, breastfeeding isn't as universal
as many people suppose -- the use of wet nurses by anyone who could afford
them was very popular at various times throughout Europe. And of course in
ancient Rome they practically had to bribe rich families to have children at
all. (Of course that, too, is a simplification.)

My point is that we should not assume that the lack of modern birth control
methods meant that every woman had a baby every year. Your average woman had
more pregnancies that today's average woman in the West, that's all. But
also, at most times in the past there were a lot more women who never
married at all, and never had children at all. Today's assumption that most
people will marry and perhaps even reproduce without marrying is very
unsual. So plenty of women never adjusted their clothes for pregnancy.

Gail Finke




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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Sep 19 12:05:01 2002
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 10:52:44 -0500
Status: RO

I am needing to do some sort of costume for occasional wear when I may
be hanging out with the local lace guild when they are doing demos. 
These tend to be at local historical sites which means American midwest,
mid to late 19th century.  Authenticity standards are not strict but I'm
to much into it personally to just throw together a skirt and blouse as
has been recommended :).  This is way out of my period so can someone
recommend a good site or references I can use for research?  

Thanks,
Catherine
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 12:05:37 -0400
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        In case you aren't off yet.  We will miss you more!

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 11:17:17 -0500
Status: RO


On Thu, 19 Sep 2002 15:12:24 BST <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk> writes:
 
And the fact that at least a couple of other h-costumers can also be seen
should in no way influence anyone to go and look at
them.........<BigEvilGrin>


Karen 



> Lots of pictures of Teddy, and Tom, and assorted mad friends, can be 
> found here:
> 
>
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/farisles/lst?&.dir=/&.src=gr&.view=l
&.begin=1
> 

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Subject: [h-cost] Soliciting interest in providing costumes for a US Art Museum?
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 09:12:08 -0700
Status: RO

I am a member of our local art museum (Phoenix, AZ) and the Arizona
Costume Institute.  I spoke last evening to the curator of the Fashion
Design section of the museum and the director of the ACI.  They were
unaware of the incredible costuming that is done in the various
re-enactment groups.  I showed them some pictures of some local
costumer's work and also informed them that there were folks world wide
which did a lot of this amazing stuff.  They seemed very interested and
I told them that I would see if any of you state side outside of AZ and
across the pond(s) might be interested in having your work displayed
should they decide to pursue it.

So, my question is: Would you consider parting with your best articles
to have them displayed at the museum?

This is not a rinky dink outfit, they have one of the best fashion
collections in North America. http://www.phxart.org/

So, anyway let me know what you think about the whole idea and contact
me offline if you are interested in participating.
Obviously this idea is just in its  conceptual stage, but I'd like to
have a few names to hand them if they decide to do it.

Saragrace

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Soliciting interest in providing costumes for a US Art Museum?
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 17:47:06 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Saragrace knauf <saragrace@earthlink.net> wrote: > 

> So, my question is: Would you consider parting with your best articles
> to have them displayed at the museum?

The big question is HOW do they treat them? My mantua, for example, has
irreplacable 19th c. handmade laces, the fabrics are all silks and metals. It
cost memore than I can pay off ina year.
My blue dress is entirely decorate with Bjarne handmade silver lace,
irreplacable as well.
Do they treat the items like museum pieces, with the utmost care, and do they
pay for the very expensive proper shipping in proper cases etc.? Will they
treat those pieces of costume clothing like the ART they are, or just like
'costumes'?
Do they treat them like the best one off creation by a dead designer like
Versace, or do theytreat them with any less reverence.

Sorry for these questions, but I think they are important.
In essence, the idea is great, and should be done here in the UK too I think,
though I fear England would treat them far too much like 'fancy dress'
costumes. *snorts* I only say 'oh can we put fake blood onto your dress' by a
filming crew for the BBC and the shrill screamed horrified NO BLOOMING WAY YOU
SODS!!!
:-)))))

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From: "Saragrace knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Soliciting interest in providing costumes for a US Art Museum?
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 10:50:25 -0700
Status: RO

This is a very legitimate concern.  As I said this is not a rinky-dink
outfit, and they constantly solicit artwork loans and provide them from
their own collection.  I am sure insurance would be provided, though
like many works of art they deal with, they are really irreplaceable.
They have a few late 17th century items in their collection and appear
to have the proper attitude towards them.  If it comes to fruition and
they choose to include me in trying to arrange it, all those questions
would be asked.  They, on the other hand, may just take the idea and run
with it themselves.  Then it would be up to the people solicited to
ensure they ask those questions.

I'll let everyone know what they say.  I specifically mentioned Bjarne's
work and they were amazed that anyone would make hand made lace and put
it on a historically correct garment.  But these folks are kinda' hoity
toity and I am sure that they don't often mix with 'folks like us'-so it
doesn't really surprise me.   But I try not to let that put me off,
because to me what is important is that the museum attempt to reach the
public to make them aware of art and that 'even they (the masses)' have
the capacity produce it.


Saragrace




**-----Original Message-----
**From: h-costume-admin@indra.com 
**[mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On Behalf Of N Kipar
**Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2002 9:47 AM
**To: h-costume@indra.com
**Subject: Re: [h-cost] Soliciting interest in providing 
**costumes for a US Art Museum?
**
**
** --- Saragrace knauf <saragrace@earthlink.net> wrote: > 
**
**> So, my question is: Would you consider parting with your 
**best articles 
**> to have them displayed at the museum?
**
**The big question is HOW do they treat them? My mantua, for 
**example, has irreplacable 19th c. handmade laces, the fabrics 
**are all silks and metals. It cost memore than I can pay off 
**ina year. My blue dress is entirely decorate with Bjarne 
**handmade silver lace, irreplacable as well. Do they treat the 
**items like museum pieces, with the utmost care, and do they 
**pay for the very expensive proper shipping in proper cases 
**etc.? Will they treat those pieces of costume clothing like 
**the ART they are, or just like 'costumes'? Do they treat them 
**like the best one off creation by a dead designer like 
**Versace, or do theytreat them with any less reverence.
**
**Sorry for these questions, but I think they are important.
**In essence, the idea is great, and should be done here in the 
**UK too I think, though I fear England would treat them far 
**too much like 'fancy dress' costumes. *snorts* I only say 'oh 
**can we put fake blood onto your dress' by a filming crew for 
**the BBC and the shrill screamed horrified NO BLOOMING WAY YOU SODS!!!
**:-)))))
**
**Nicole
**
**=====
**Nicole Kipar M.A.
**Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
**Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
**URL: http://www.kipar.org/
**Email: marquis@kipar.org
**
**__________________________________________________
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**from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts 
**http://uk.my.yahoo.com
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From: "Jane Williams" <jane@williams.nildram.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 19th Century help
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 19:25:50 +0100
Status: RO

On 19 Sep 2002 at 10:52, Catherine Kinsey wrote:

>  American
> midwest, mid to late 19th century.  Authenticity standards are not
> strict but I'm to much into it personally to just throw together a
> skirt and blouse as has been recommended :).  This is way out of my
> period so can someone recommend a good site or references I can use
> for research?  

I'm just starting to look into ACW stuff myself, 
having previously thought of Tudor as "modern". I 
think that covers "mid to late 19th century", close 
enough?

(And I got told to go for a blouse and skirt, too! No 
way!)

Others on this list have been very, very helpful, but 
here's some sites I've found useful, as a beginner:

http://www.elizabethstewartclark.com/
especially the Academy
http://www.elizabethstewartclark.com/THE_MARKET
PLACE/FABRIC_STORE/Academy/Academy.htm

Includes patterns: so don't buy too many when you 
can get them free!

www.pastpatterns.com sells patterns (surprise!) but 
their web site seems to be down at present :(

The Curiosity Shop
http://home.earthlink.net/~gchristen/
has lots of interesting information

There's a book called "What they Wore" by Juanita 
Leisch. Available from Amazon, and excellent.





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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1950s underwear?
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 19:47:50 +0100
Status: RO

Nicole,

There's (or there used to be) a company called Alexandra, who do uniform 
wear for nurses and caterers and similar stuff.  You may be able to find 
a branch in a large town - there was one in Edinburgh, but I think it 
moved to out-of-town.

Jean


N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote
>Thank you everyone for all those suggestions, web page addresses, information
>and first hand experience. I have a lot to go from now, cheers! The pointed
>bras look really hilarious, I think I have to get one, after all, it's
>authentic (and it's funny!)
>Tim also gave me a sheet with detailed information on how things were worn for
>different years, and apparently the stockings are supposed to be grey
>(1954-1956) and then beige (1957-1960). I think I go for the 54-56 look, I
>prefer beige stockings.
>Now I just have to find a source for simple, sturdy, black lace-up shoes. There
>must be something here in the UK for uniform shoes or such. I'll check around.
>Thank you everyone! When I have the stuff together I promise a photo of me as
>Nursie. (for those in the UK, yes, I DO look like a nurse in one of the Carry
>On films. hehehe)
>
>Nicole
>
>=====
>Nicole Kipar M.A.
>Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
>Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
>URL: http://www.kipar.org/
>Email: marquis@kipar.org
>
>__________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 15:07:48 -0400
Status: RO

Oh no!

Teddy, we'll miss you!

Dianne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Teddy" <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2002 7:14 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Gonna have to unsubscribe....


> Hi H-Costumers!
> 
> Short note to say. "Bye,"  for a while at least. An idiot at work 
> (where my e-mail is) circulated spam to the entire organisation so 
> the dreaded crackdown on personal e-mails has happened.
> 
> I'm gonna have to unsub for a while to reduce the through traffic on 
> my account.
> 
> I'll miss this list!
> 
> 
> 
> Teddy
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 21:21:43 +0200
Status: RO

Hi.
I told you that i had given up making costumes, a long time ago.
But i must admit that i am back in buisiness after all. Cant live without
it!!! :-)
I really have missed the thrill .............
A lady in Denver, USA has purchased me to make her an embroidered 18th.
century robe a la francaise.
It is partly inspired from the pink dress with the handpainted white panels
in Revolution in fashion.
I promise to send photos to my site soon. Just had a new computer and i
really have to figure how i use the new program "Frontpage Express" to send
new pages to the URL.
The dress is made in sky blue "Royal Silk Taffeta" from James Hare in
London. I am going to embroider the panels on ivory taffeta, using Eterna
Stranded silk and Silk Chenille. I have just finished the design for the
embroidery and made a watercolour of the dress to be.

Bjarne


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hems (and pleats)
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 19:52:11 +0100
Status: RO

N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote
> --- Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
>
>> Tell you what, you can owe them to me for Kirby Hall next year if I turn
>
>No Kirby Hall next year I'm afraid.
>
>> up with my green dress embroidered at hem, cuffs and neck.  I have
>
>*grins* Sounds like a big project.
>
>> measured the lengths, I have the cloth sitting on the table to cut the
>> strips... I HATE embroidery, and I've never yet finished anything!  This
>> is the real challenge for the winter.  How many other garments will I
>> make to avoid doing embroidery?
>
>Hmm.. if you hate it so much, there isn't by any chance something else you
>could do? I am a firm beiever in not forcing oneself into doing something one
>hates. Would be such a shame. Your project though sound yummy!
>
>Nicole
>
I did consider doing it in braid, but for the quality it needs I would 
have to do it in embroidery silk, and about 50 cards.  Even though I 
enjoy doing braid, that's too much, and too likely to turn into a nasty 
tangled thing half-way through.  I wove 5m for my posh girdle last 
winter, time for a change!

Jean
-- 
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Sep 19 18:31:36 2002
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 15:31:03 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Hi again,
   I think I was the one who commented about a baby a
year.  I realize that not everyone had a baby a year,
I was merely  refering to my own genealogy, most of my
ancestors had 17-21 children through the course of
their reproductive lifetimes and the known rate of
miscarriages of the ones that didn't suggests Rh
incompatibility.  As it is I have lots of relatives ;)
and alot of them are into American Civil War
re-enacting so that is really my period.  Although the
Elizabethan is starting to grow on me as I work on my
current project.
     I recently saw a very bad book on lingerie (the
fashion plate captions were way way off) that
reproduced a portrait of Elizabeth I in which she is
wearing a grey gown with gold ornaments that look to
be set on top ofribbon rosettes.  There is no citation
for the portrait but it looks like Elizabeth I.  Does
anyone know this one?  I don't remember seeing much
grey in clothing of that era before and the jewelry
looks almost reproducible given enough ribbon and some
costume jewelry I recently saw.
                           Cassandra

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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 17:43:25 -0500
Status: RO


>Cassandra (who is
>beginning to really miss those pre-computer days when
>researchers got kicked out of the library at midnight
>so they could go home and sew)

Now we have to kick them off the internet computers
and THEN out of the library!

Sheryl Nance-Durst
Librarian & proud of it!

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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 20:45:15 -0600
Status: RO

Oh, thanks Jane, but, see....*sniff*....my friend Jane and I had dinner
with them, and Teddy was wearing this cat-print waistcoat,
and.....*sniff*
--sue (*sniff*, checking out the pretty pictures....;-)

jane@williams.nildram.co.uk wrote:
> 
> Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote :
> 
> > Oh, Teddy....Say it isn't so! It just won't be the same! *sniff* Come
> > back soon! *sniff*
> > --Sue, still sorting through stuff from the trip, and still regretting
> > that she didn't get a picture of you and Tom....
> 
> Lots of pictures of Teddy, and Tom, and assorted mad friends, can be found here:
> 
> http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/farisles/lst?&.dir=/&.src=gr&.view=l&.begin=1
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 23:00:35 -0400
Status: RO


Hello-

I'm in the beginning stages of planning an 1873-5 (ish) evening gown.  I've
looked at several sources & checked all the books I have but haven't been
able to make up my mind whether the gowns were several separate pieces or
not, it seems obvious in daywear but not so with the evening styles.  I know
that they are made up of a bodice/underskirt/overskirt but are they all
attached to each other?

How is the bodice closed, I'm assuming it is laced up the back.  I've only
been able to find pictures from the side & front, those that I have from the
back aren't detailed enough to be able to tell.

I've also been researching the underclothes & have found a list which
includes chemise, camisole & vest.  Aren't these 3 things roughly the same
at this point?

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.  I've rented Age of Innocence to
watch for ideas on colour, styling etc.  What other movies cover this time
period?


Thanks

Elizabeth

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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 20:27:01 -0700
Status: RO

To Elizabeth-

I have a bustle-era ball gown made by a Victorian-specialist seamstress
and she made the bodice so it closes by hooks and holes up the back. No
gaping or slipping there!!! The underskirt slips on and buttons, the
back overskirt hooks onto the underskirt's waistband and the front
overskirt buttons on to the waistband.  All are separate items, great
for disassembling and recombining into various day looks.

My undergarment is a set of combinations, which is really rather later
than 1870's but it cuts down on the amount of bulk at the waist, which
can really start to add up!!

This outfit was created this way after discussions between me and the
seamstress to achieve ease of wearing and versatility of pieces and may
not reflect what the ladies actually did in the Victorian Era!!!

Hope this helps, 

Theresa Eacker

Alabaster wrote: (Snipping)
> 
> I'm in the beginning stages of planning an 1873-5 (ish) evening gown...I have but haven't been
> able to make up my mind whether the gowns were several separate pieces or
> not,   I know
> that they are made up of a bodice/underskirt/overskirt but are they all
> attached to each other?
> 
> How is the bodice closed, I'm assuming it is laced up the back. 
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1875 evening gown
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2002 22:32:25 -0500
Status: RO

My best recommendation is to check out the website of 'Truly Victorian'
patterns. 

http://trulyvictorian.netfirms.com/


They have an extensive collection of early bustle clothing patterns which
will save you the trouble of reinventing the wheel. If you want high end
fashion, there are several Dover books that have reprints of period
fashion plates and catalogs: 

Victorian Fashions & Costumes from Harper's Bazar-1867-1898
Edited by Stella Blum

Victorian and Edwardian Fashions from "La Mode Illustree" 1860-1914
Edited by JoAnne Olian

American Dress Pattern Catalogs 1873-1909
Edited by Nancy Villa Bryk


are close at hand. On the other hand, if you want to know what women were
actually wearing, there are books of period photos which can help:

Victorian Costume for Ladies 1860-1900
Linda Setnik  Schiffer Books

Victorian and Edwardian Fashion- A Photographic Survey
Alison Gernsheim Dover Books

Just a few recommendations of sources I have found to be helpful.

Karen

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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 16:26:03 +1200
Status: RO

> I'm in the beginning stages of planning an 1873-5 (ish) evening gown.
I've
> looked at several sources & checked all the books I have but haven't been
> able to make up my mind whether the gowns were several separate pieces or
> not, it seems obvious in daywear but not so with the evening styles.  I
know
> that they are made up of a bodice/underskirt/overskirt but are they all
> attached to each other?

It really depends on the dress. I've seen a dress that was clearly one piece
(or at least one outer piece with petticoat etc underneath it's Alison
Gernsheims book reprinted by Dover as Victorian and Edwardian Fashion, A
Photographic Survey) and I've seen one which really is a seperate (the pink
rose gown at V&A.. what a stunner in person. Sadly my photo of it turned out
blurred, but what was facinating was the double row of piping. I'd thought
it was just a single row from photos.

Another Dover reprint (how do I love the company for all it's costume book
reprints!) is the Harpers Bazar book which covers fromthe 1860s to 1890s and
has so many fashion plate illustrations you're sure to find something that
supports both single out piece and 2 or more pieces (maybe a seperate trian
for example as well as bodice and skirt).

> How is the bodice closed, I'm assuming it is laced up the back.  I've only
> been able to find pictures from the side & front, those that I have from
the
> back aren't detailed enough to be able to tell.

That rose gown definately laces up the back. So there is that as an option,
but I'm pretty sure I've seen hooks and eyes or buttons down the front on
some. It really is not a case of one way for every gown:) Of course I am
talking a few years either side of the date you gave:)

> I've also been researching the underclothes & have found a list which
> includes chemise, camisole & vest.  Aren't these 3 things roughly the same
> at this point?

Sort of...  By the late 1870s there were combinations, but petticoats were
still worn (and some corsets have buttons on them to hold the petticoat up,
supposedly to reduce bulk) And I think there were corset covers still
around.

1875 is still pretty full in terms of the bustle so underwear hadn't been
streamlined quite yet.

> Any insight would be greatly appreciated.  I've rented Age of Innocence to
> watch for ideas on colour, styling etc.  What other movies cover this time
> period?

Portrait of a lady does, though the style really reflects the latter end of
the decade even though it covers several years. The aunt played by... Shelly
long is it? has fashions that are more towards the middle part of the
decade.

Also Anna Karenina with Sophie Marceau in the title role is an movie for
this era:) Again slightly later, more streamlined.

1870s to 1880s is my all time favourite fashion era. Such a range from
incredibly hideous over the top monstrosities to absolutely divine elegance.
Pingat and Worth beign my two favourite designers for this era. I might be
able to find a link to some stunning extant gowns on the net if you would
like to see them? I saved the images, but hopefully I did also save links;)

michaela
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce
http://recital.tripod.com/costume


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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 07:23:57 +0100
Status: RO

>I'm in the beginning stages of planning an 1873-5 (ish) evening gown.

There is a reasonable change over that time, I only really do England so I'm
not sure it applies to the US too, but for what it is worth...

1873 are fuller in the front with apron style fronts and lots of puffs
towards the back, they are generally more merrange like, as you progress
through those years the front has less emphasis and you more from being
towards the centre of a circle to the front of an elipse. The decoration
move towards the back, hips start of be more defined, bodices start to get
longer & you get more princess line gowns. But it is fairly gradual

 >whether the gowns were several separate pieces or
not, it seems obvious in daywear but not so with the evening styles.  I know
that they are made up of a bodice/underskirt/overskirt but are they all
attached to each other?

Earlier ones are more inclined to be seperate

>How is the bodice closed, I'm assuming it is laced up the back.

Various ways & generally very complex ones at that. On a practical level you
might not want to go as complicated as the real thing if you ever anticipate
have to get out of it alone !

I have evening wear that is front opening, back buttons, back clips and side
opening. By evening gown do you mean dinner wear, opera wear, ball gown as
the style would differ somewhat.

>I've also been researching the underclothes & have found a list which
includes chemise, camisole & vest.  Aren't these 3 things roughly the same
at this point?

Most vests I have are knitted warm things I'd not wear in the evening :)

Underwear definatly go for the genuine split drawers !

I like combinations but I don't have any problem with excess bulk from
seperates, but then I'm bulky all round ;)

Don't start making your gown until you have you foundation sorted , ie
bustle & corset as it alters you body shape loads !

Hope this helps

Oh there are some pics of our recreations on www.castlefalkenstein.co.uk

Mel


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Sep 20 04:14:38 2002
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Online picture of 'blank' human figure drawing?
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 09:13:30 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

Hi All,

May I pick your brains again? I remember that once upon a time I found two
drawings, one of a male and one of a female figure on the net, that were
printable to be used for drawing one's own costume designs. Now, I'm not bad at
drawing but I am awful at trying to make a human figure blank (been there, done
that, turned out very painful :-)
Does anyone know of such a drawing or has one perhaps at home and could send it
to me so that I can draw up my 'Evil Queen' costume? *grins*
Thanks ever so much

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 09:25:07 BST
Status: RO

Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote :

> Oh, thanks Jane, but, see....*sniff*....my friend Jane and I had dinner
> with them, and Teddy was wearing this cat-print waistcoat,
> and.....*sniff*
> --sue (*sniff*, checking out the pretty pictures....;-)

Nope, sorry. This is all Far Isles stuff. No cat-print waistcoats.




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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Sep 20 04:33:37 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] maternity and fertility
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 09:52:02 +0100
Status: RO

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Morning all

There's some interesting stuff in the following, regarding fertility and =
lactation

Dorothy McLaren "Marital Fertlity and Lactation - 1570 - 1720" in "Women =
in English Society 1500 - 1800"

Also, for spacing etc, there's the Council For British Archaeology =
Series, Special Reports etc on The Spitalfields Project.  This stuff =
deals with C18th and the Huguenot populations in London.  I haven't got =
the link at the mo' but will post later.

As for images of women, then have a look at an article in the Costume =
Society Journal "Costume" Number 34 , 2000...."A Fatal Fertility? =
Elizabethan and Jacobean Pregnancy Portraits", by Karen Hearn.

There's also some maternity stuff in Karen Baclawski's "Dictionary of =
Historic Costume"

HTH

Regards

Helen

------=_NextPart_000_0023_01C2608B.5EF30260
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4>Morning =
all</FONT></EM></DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4>There's some interesting =
stuff in the=20
following, regarding fertility and lactation</FONT></EM></DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4>Dorothy McLaren "Marital =
Fertlity and=20
Lactation - 1570 - 1720" in "Women in English Society 1500 -=20
1800"</FONT></EM></DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4>Also, for spacing etc, =
there's the=20
Council For British Archaeology Series, Special Reports etc on The =
Spitalfields=20
Project.&nbsp; This stuff deals with C18th and the Huguenot populations =
in=20
London.&nbsp; I haven't got the link at the mo' but will post=20
later.</FONT></EM></DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4>As for images of women, =
then have a=20
look at an article in the Costume Society Journal "Costume" Number 34 ,=20
2000...."A Fatal Fertility? Elizabethan and Jacobean Pregnancy =
Portraits", by=20
Karen Hearn.</FONT></EM></DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4>There's also some =
maternity stuff in=20
Karen Baclawski's "Dictionary of Historic Costume"</FONT></EM></DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4>HTH</FONT></EM></DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4>Regards</FONT></EM></DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" =
size=3D4>Helen</FONT></EM></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 09:29:36 +0100
Status: RO

Cassandra wrote:

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> rosenau5@yahoo.com 09/19/02 11:31pm >>>
Hi again,
   I think I was the one who commented about a baby a
year.  I realize that not everyone had a baby a year,

No, it was me. I said it was "normal", by which I meant that having a very large family was for centuries socially acceptable and not seen as a sign of irresponsibility, in the way that  in more recent times educated people tended to look down upon "the feckless poor". Of course I know not every couple had a huge number of children.


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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 09:40:06 +0000
Status: RO

Bjarne,
Congrats!  I, for one, am *very* glad to see you decided 
to go back to your wonderful, glorious, drool-worthy, 
scrumptious costumes.

I can hardly wait to see what you do now!

Giacinta
costume junkie 
> Hi.
> I told you that i had given up making costumes, a long time ago.
> But i must admit that i am back in buisiness after all. Cant live without
> it!!! :-)
> I really have missed the thrill .............
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 19th Century help
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 04:27:11 -0700
Status: RO


>I am needing to do some sort of costume for occasional wear when I may
>be hanging out with the local lace guild when they are doing demos.
>These tend to be at local historical sites which means American midwest,
>mid to late 19th century.  Authenticity standards are not strict but I'm
>to much into it personally to just throw together a skirt and blouse as
>has been recommended :).  This is way out of my period so can someone
>recommend a good site or references I can use for research?

It's quicker to just buy a pattern than to start from scratch.  For your 
purposes, any of the commercial historical patterns, of the sort sold to 
re-enactors, should be fine.  Past Patterns is the name that comes to mind, 
tho I have never used their patterns and there are many others as 
well.  You're lucky in that you get to pick the period.

Kayta

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1875 evening gown
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 04:31:05 -0700
Status: RO


>I'm in the beginning stages of planning an 1873-5 (ish) evening gown.  I've
>looked at several sources & checked all the books I have but haven't been
>able to make up my mind whether the gowns were several separate pieces or
>not, it seems obvious in daywear but not so with the evening styles.  I know
>that they are made up of a bodice/underskirt/overskirt but are they all
>attached to each other?

Separate pieces, sometimes attached but usually not.

>How is the bodice closed, I'm assuming it is laced up the back.

or hooks.

>I've also been researching the underclothes & have found a list which
>includes chemise, camisole & vest.  Aren't these 3 things roughly the same
>at this point?

Sometimes chemise or shift is the name for the underneath one.  Sometimes 
chemise or camisole or vest is the name for the outer one.  Names???  One 
garment goes under the corset, and one garment goes over the corset.


Kayta

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Online picture of 'blank' human figure drawing?
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 04:34:25 -0700
Status: RO


>I remember that once upon a time I found two
>drawings, one of a male and one of a female figure on the net, that were
>printable to be used for drawing one's own costume designs. Now, I'm not 
>bad at
>drawing but I am awful at trying to make a human figure blank (been there, 
>done
>that, turned out very painful :-)
>Does anyone know of such a drawing or has one perhaps at home and could 
>send it
>to me so that I can draw up my 'Evil Queen' costume? *grins*
>Thanks ever so much

Somewhere on http://www.alleycatscratch.com are several of these; men, 
women, and children.


Kayta

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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 13:28:24 +0100
Status: RO

http://www.alleycatscratch.com/ffashion/Figures.htm

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Sep 20 08:33:48 2002
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 06:39:21 -0600
Status: RO

*blink, blink*
Evil Queen costume??? Care to share details?  Pleeeeez?
--sue, going through her new book stash, and jonesing to do some
costuming....but *always* willing to be distracted by someone else's
great ideas!

N Kipar wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> May I pick your brains again? I remember that once upon a time I found two
> drawings, one of a male and one of a female figure on the net, that were
> printable to be used for drawing one's own costume designs. Now, I'm not bad at
> drawing but I am awful at trying to make a human figure blank (been there, done
> that, turned out very painful :-)
> Does anyone know of such a drawing or has one perhaps at home and could send it
> to me so that I can draw up my 'Evil Queen' costume? *grins*
> Thanks ever so much
> 
> Nicole
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 Museum?
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 08:40:19 -0400
Status: RO

Hi, All. Please let us know the conditions under which garments would be
loaned. A written agreement might be in order. Does the Museum have a
standard one? I am the Chairman of a Curatorial Committee for a small
(possibly rinky-dink ;) ) museum, and we have artifacts loaned or given
under a variety of conditions. Some museums will not accept any items
unless they are loaned by their own specific conditions. This is to protect
both the Museum and the loaner, but it sometimes puts off potential
donors.  Mike T.



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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 14:17:52 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote: > *blink, blink*

*grins*

> Evil Queen costume??? Care to share details?  Pleeeeez?

Well.. *buffs nails*
Have been discussing this with Teddy at length. Okay,let's start at the
beginning.
I made an Evil Queen costume a few years back when I was much thinner, I think
I have a piccie somewhere online... the point is, I was skinny, and  could get
away with the flimsy bits I am wearing (and thigh length black high heeled
patent leather boots *LOL*)

okay, one is here:
http://www.cheesegame.com/vaux/queenkhay_s.jpg

and one here:
http://www.cheesegame.com/vaux/thoraqueen2.jpg

I really really have been wanting another costume, and I mean COSTUME and not
authentic correct period clothing for a long while now. I have been starting to
lose any fun making costumes and sewing, because the work for Ben's uniforms
was just too much and I couldn't bear it anymore (that kind of reminds me a
little bit of the burn-out that Bjarne had). Anyway, so I was starting to dream
of this costume and what I would like it to be like. See, I have Margo's
patterns, and am geting the excess boning that Bjarne still had. Also, I'm
going to visit teddyand Tom in a couple of weeks (one day sorting Teddy's
fabric stash, the next he's helping with Margo's corset fist and other fitting
bits.) Sooo. I am going to make Margo's underpinnings all in black linen,
completely black, black, black. *L* then I have this vision of a dress in black
silk (dupion!!! NO way I go mad and pay loads of money for taffeta) and then I
want moonstones on it, but no trims, and perhaps grey pearls, and a headdress,
and huge supportasse and standing collar, and hanging sleeves over tight ones,
and a choke colarnecklace with chains and moonstones that go all the wav
spiderwebbing over the cleavage (I still have that white skin) and hooking onto
the dress. A long train and an even longer cape falling from the shoulders,
lined in silver (the hanging sleeves are lined in silver too) and so on... For
next year's UK Masquerade.

Imagine a totally still night out of civilisation. A cold black-blue skiy and
the only lights the immeasurable stars. You feel so alone and silent and cold,
that you start to get frightened.. THAT is what my dress' insipration is. :-)

> --sue, going through her new book stash, and jonesing to do some
> costuming....but *always* willing to be distracted by someone else's
> great ideas!

Oh I know dear!

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Online picture of 'blank' human figure drawing?
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 14:18:46 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com> wrote: >
http://www.alleycatscratch.com/ffashion/Figures.htm

Thank you so much, that's great! Oh and my last mail was a big one describing
the Evil queen costume and not one about figures. sheesh, forgot to change the
subject.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 14:48:14 +0100
Status: RO

Great costume !

Did you get the shoe url ? any good ?

Mel

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Sep 20 09:54:46 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] transcript URL: Perkin & Mauve Coulour
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 16:00:54 +0200
Status: RO

Mauve: The Colour That Changed the World
(Robyn Williams' radio transcript from ABC, Australia, 5/01/2002)

Summary:
When William Perkin, a young English chemist discovered the colour Mauve, 
little did he realise the profound effect the colour would have on the 
world, and not just the world of fashion. His discovery was to have a huge 
effect on the development of explosives, perfume, photography, food and 
most importantly, modern medicine where it was used to lay the foundation 
for chemotherapy.
http://www.abc.net.au/rn/science/ss/stories/s444855.htm

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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 15:57:19 +0200
Status: RO

Hi.
This sounds fabulous Nicole! 
Especially the underpinnings in black linen WhouW
Dont forget to post pictures!

Bjarne


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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 15:14:15 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

 --- Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote: > Hi.
> This sounds fabulous Nicole! 

Thank you! It is great to hear this from such a master as you.

> Especially the underpinnings in black linen WhouW

I hope it'll be good, I'll get the linen from Whaleys, and.... I MACHINE sew as
much as I can, no weeks on end of authentic hand sticthing. Bwuaaahaaaa.

> Dont forget to post pictures!

I was thinking to perhaps even manage an online dress diary, because my parents
have now handed the digicam that's my Christmas prezzie-to-be (and that my dad
already bought *G*) to my sis who lives in Liverpool, so that she can post it
from there to home here, because I go onto a study day at the V&A in October.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 07:24:25 -0700
Status: RO

This is a good point.  I provided the curator and the AZ Costume
Institute (AZI) director the idea, they took the information I had
collected (a bunch of pictures down loaded off the internet) and said
they would consider it.  They may or may not include me in the
development of the idea (though they didn't seem to have any idea of how
to get in touch with folks who do this sort of thing-but it doesn't take
a rocket scientist).  IF they include me I will be sure to ask these
questions, but ultimately it is up to the individual who provides a
piece of work to get assurance that it will be insured, handled properly
etc.  

Here is are two of the current exhibits:
http://www.phxart.org/index_fortuny.html  (Mariano Fortuny)
And a celebration of "garden fashion"  "The Garden of Eden"
http://www.phxart.org/index_garden_of_eden.html

I think these links both give an idea of the broad range of textiles
(period, design) they are handling (these are all from their own
collection).  But still Mike's point is well taken-if I were so lucky to
have my work displayed I would want to know the same.

Sg

**-----Original Message-----
**From: h-costume-admin@indra.com 
**[mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On Behalf Of leigh tartaglio
**Sent: Friday, September 20, 2002 5:40 AM
**To: h-costume@indra.com
**Subject: Re: [h-cost] Soliciting interest in providing 
**costumes for a US Art Museum?
**
**
**Hi, All. Please let us know the conditions under which 
**garments would be loaned. A written agreement might be in 
**order. Does the Museum have a standard one? I am the Chairman 
**of a Curatorial Committee for a small (possibly rinky-dink ;) 
**) museum, and we have artifacts loaned or given under a 
**variety of conditions. Some museums will not accept any items 
**unless they are loaned by their own specific conditions. This 
**is to protect both the Museum and the loaner, but it 
**sometimes puts off potential donors.  Mike T.
**
**
**
**_______________________________________________
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**

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Subject: [h-cost] Croquis-Was Online picture of 'blank' human figure drawing?
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 07:28:11 -0700
Status: RO

If the links already provided don't suit you try searching under
'croquis' and add the word 'fashion'.  Croquis is what they are called
over here in the fashion design world.

Sg

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1875 evening gown
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 07:43:58 -0700
Status: RO

To follow up on some of the other responses:

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alabaster" <mercury@eagle.ca>
Subject: [h-cost] 1875 evening gown


> How is the bodice closed, I'm assuming it is laced up the back.  I've only
> been able to find pictures from the side & front, those that I have from
the
> back aren't detailed enough to be able to tell.

I think the general rule is front closing for day and dinner dresses, back
closing for evening -- but other posters are correct, that's only a general
rule and there are many variations.

> Any insight would be greatly appreciated.  I've rented Age of Innocence to
> watch for ideas on colour, styling etc.  What other movies cover this time
> period?

Check out the BBC (or is A&E?) version of Edith Wharton's The Buccaneers
(http://us.imdb.com/Title?0111902) -- only available on video, and has some
GORGEOUS early - late 1870's costumes.

I would finally recommend checking out Janet Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion_
and Norah Waugh's _Cut of Women's Clothes_ to get a good overview of cut in
this period.  I have to second the recommendations for the Dover Harper's
Bazar 1867-189? book, and also for Truly Victorian patterns.

I'm so VERY into the 1870's right now, so if you have further questions
don't hesitate to ask!

- Kendra



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Subject: [h-cost] Use of grey in Elizabethan period-was historic maternity/ bad portrait of Elizabeth I
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 08:06:23 -0700
Status: RO

A quick review of QEWU reveals to tidbits, both on page 247 in the
editor's notes.  "...ash coloured taffeta tissued..&..dove coloured
tissued taffeta"

Those are probably indications of at least a few items (gownes and a
jupp in this case) of shades of grey.

Of course most of the pictures in QEWU are not colored, but my guess is
if we spent some time going through the rest of the inventories we would
find other examples of grey.


Sg

**wearing a grey gown with gold ornaments that look to
**be set on top ofribbon rosettes.  There is no citation
**for the portrait but it looks like Elizabeth I.  Does
**anyone know this one?  I don't remember seeing much
**grey in clothing of that era before and the jewelry

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] maternity and fertility - here's the link
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 16:49:56 +0100
Status: RO

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C260C5.C023F140
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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here's the link...enjoy

http://ads.ahds.ac.uk/catalogue/library/cba/rr86.cfm
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Helen Partner=20
  To: h-costume@net.indra.com=20
  Sent: 20 September 2002 09:52
  Subject: [h-cost] maternity and fertility


  Morning all

  There's some interesting stuff in the following, regarding fertility =
and lactation

  Dorothy McLaren "Marital Fertlity and Lactation - 1570 - 1720" in =
"Women in English Society 1500 - 1800"

  Also, for spacing etc, there's the Council For British Archaeology =
Series, Special Reports etc on The Spitalfields Project.  This stuff =
deals with C18th and the Huguenot populations in London.  I haven't got =
the link at the mo' but will post later.

  As for images of women, then have a look at an article in the Costume =
Society Journal "Costume" Number 34 , 2000...."A Fatal Fertility? =
Elizabethan and Jacobean Pregnancy Portraits", by Karen Hearn.

  There's also some maternity stuff in Karen Baclawski's "Dictionary of =
Historic Costume"

  HTH

  Regards

  Helen

------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C260C5.C023F140
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4>here's the=20
link...enjoy</FONT></EM></DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4><A=20
href=3D"http://ads.ahds.ac.uk/catalogue/library/cba/rr86.cfm">http://ads.=
ahds.ac.uk/catalogue/library/cba/rr86.cfm</A></FONT></EM></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Dmail@helandbel.fsnet.co.uk=20
  href=3D"mailto:mail@helandbel.fsnet.co.uk">Helen Partner</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dh-costume@net.indra.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:h-costume@net.indra.com">h-costume@net.indra.com</A> =
</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> 20 September 2002 =
09:52</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [h-cost] maternity and =

  fertility</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4>Morning =
all</FONT></EM></DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" =
size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4>There's some =
interesting stuff in=20
  the following, regarding fertility and lactation</FONT></EM></DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" =
size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4>Dorothy McLaren =
"Marital Fertlity=20
  and Lactation - 1570 - 1720" in "Women in English Society 1500 -=20
  1800"</FONT></EM></DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" =
size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4>Also, for spacing etc, =
there's the=20
  Council For British Archaeology Series, Special Reports etc on The=20
  Spitalfields Project.&nbsp; This stuff deals with C18th and the =
Huguenot=20
  populations in London.&nbsp; I haven't got the link at the mo' but =
will post=20
  later.</FONT></EM></DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" =
size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4>As for images of women, =
then have a=20
  look at an article in the Costume Society Journal "Costume" Number 34 =
,=20
  2000...."A Fatal Fertility? Elizabethan and Jacobean Pregnancy =
Portraits", by=20
  Karen Hearn.</FONT></EM></DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" =
size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4>There's also some =
maternity stuff=20
  in Karen Baclawski's "Dictionary of Historic =
Costume"</FONT></EM></DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" =
size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4>HTH</FONT></EM></DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" =
size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" =
size=3D4>Regards</FONT></EM></DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" =
size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS"=20
size=3D4>Helen</FONT></EM></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C260C5.C023F140--

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From: "Helen  Partner" <mail@helandbel.fsnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>, <h-costume@net.indra.com>
References: <002601c26083$149e5be0$2f1e86d9@oemcomputer>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] maternity and fertility - here's the link
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 16:49:56 +0100
Status: RO

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here's the link...enjoy

http://ads.ahds.ac.uk/catalogue/library/cba/rr86.cfm
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Helen Partner=20
  To: h-costume@net.indra.com=20
  Sent: 20 September 2002 09:52
  Subject: [h-cost] maternity and fertility


  Morning all

  There's some interesting stuff in the following, regarding fertility =
and lactation

  Dorothy McLaren "Marital Fertlity and Lactation - 1570 - 1720" in =
"Women in English Society 1500 - 1800"

  Also, for spacing etc, there's the Council For British Archaeology =
Series, Special Reports etc on The Spitalfields Project.  This stuff =
deals with C18th and the Huguenot populations in London.  I haven't got =
the link at the mo' but will post later.

  As for images of women, then have a look at an article in the Costume =
Society Journal "Costume" Number 34 , 2000...."A Fatal Fertility? =
Elizabethan and Jacobean Pregnancy Portraits", by Karen Hearn.

  There's also some maternity stuff in Karen Baclawski's "Dictionary of =
Historic Costume"

  HTH

  Regards

  Helen

------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C260C5.C023F140
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4>here's the=20
link...enjoy</FONT></EM></DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4><A=20
href=3D"http://ads.ahds.ac.uk/catalogue/library/cba/rr86.cfm">http://ads.=
ahds.ac.uk/catalogue/library/cba/rr86.cfm</A></FONT></EM></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Dmail@helandbel.fsnet.co.uk=20
  href=3D"mailto:mail@helandbel.fsnet.co.uk">Helen Partner</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dh-costume@net.indra.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:h-costume@net.indra.com">h-costume@net.indra.com</A> =
</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> 20 September 2002 =
09:52</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [h-cost] maternity and =

  fertility</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4>Morning =
all</FONT></EM></DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" =
size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4>There's some =
interesting stuff in=20
  the following, regarding fertility and lactation</FONT></EM></DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" =
size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4>Dorothy McLaren =
"Marital Fertlity=20
  and Lactation - 1570 - 1720" in "Women in English Society 1500 -=20
  1800"</FONT></EM></DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" =
size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4>Also, for spacing etc, =
there's the=20
  Council For British Archaeology Series, Special Reports etc on The=20
  Spitalfields Project.&nbsp; This stuff deals with C18th and the =
Huguenot=20
  populations in London.&nbsp; I haven't got the link at the mo' but =
will post=20
  later.</FONT></EM></DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" =
size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4>As for images of women, =
then have a=20
  look at an article in the Costume Society Journal "Costume" Number 34 =
,=20
  2000...."A Fatal Fertility? Elizabethan and Jacobean Pregnancy =
Portraits", by=20
  Karen Hearn.</FONT></EM></DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" =
size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4>There's also some =
maternity stuff=20
  in Karen Baclawski's "Dictionary of Historic =
Costume"</FONT></EM></DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" =
size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D4>HTH</FONT></EM></DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" =
size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" =
size=3D4>Regards</FONT></EM></DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" =
size=3D4></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS"=20
size=3D4>Helen</FONT></EM></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C260C5.C023F140--

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Online picture of 'blank' human figure drawing?
To: h-costume@indra.com
In-Reply-To: <no.id> from "=?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?=" at Sep 20, 2002 09:13:30 AM
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 08:42:32 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

try doing a web search for "croquis"


> 
> Hi All,
> 
> May I pick your brains again? I remember that once upon a time I found two
> drawings, one of a male and one of a female figure on the net, that were
> printable to be used for drawing one's own costume designs. Now, I'm not bad at
> drawing but I am awful at trying to make a human figure blank (been there, done
> that, turned out very painful :-)
> Does anyone know of such a drawing or has one perhaps at home and could send it
> to me so that I can draw up my 'Evil Queen' costume? *grins*
> Thanks ever so much
> 
> Nicole
> 
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
> Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: marquis@kipar.org
> 
> __________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 11:33:15 -0400
Status: RO

        If I ever win the lottery (fat chance) the first thing I will do
is pay off all my debts and the second will be to beg you to make me a
grand and glorious gown.  Bjarne, you are absolutely the tops!

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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From: Catelli <catelli@rcn.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Introduction & Costume Con
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 12:28:55 -0400
Status: RO

Hi,

I'm Ann Catelli, or Cecila Dollmaker in the SCA.
I'm interested in medieval, renaissance, nineteenth century (for dance mostly), 1910's (dancing again), and science fiction costuming.

My interest in costumes started when I wanted to make my third doll a fairy-tale princess (I was only 13), which lead me to the library & the many secondary and tertiary sources on clothing, & here I
am.


I have been to several Costume Cons, mostly those on the East Coast, & helped to run the Hartford one in 2000.
Costume Cons have a science fiction & fantasy masquerade (costume contest), a historical masquerade, a future fashion show of designs from the Future Fashion Folio, which were submitted well in advance
& picked for the folio & may be made up by any member of the convention, a doll contest, displays of past costumes, vendors, and many many classes & talks.
I enjoy them a lot, which would explain the 8 I have attended and the next two (so far) that I plan to attend, which are Chicago in 2003 and Atlanta in 2004.

yours,
Ann Catelli


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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 10:27:05 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO



I was just reading the new issue of Threads, and one of the
reader tips for cutting thread on planes -- use the tiny blade in
a dental floos container.  You don't even need to remove the floss!

what a great idea...

.heather.

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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 10:20:59 -0700
Status: RO

Welcome! I think you'll find a few dollmakers (I do cloth
sculpture/dolls) as well as costumers on the list.  Are you on the east
coast?  If you are near Hartford I know someone who also is interested
in doing dolls.  Have you ever been to Osgood's in Springfield??

Saragrace

www.saragrace.net

**-----Original Message-----
**From: h-costume-admin@indra.com 
**[mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On Behalf Of Catelli
**Sent: Friday, September 20, 2002 9:29 AM
**To: h-costume@indra.com
**Subject: [h-cost] Introduction & Costume Con
**
**
**Hi,
**
**I'm Ann Catelli, or Cecila Dollmaker in the SCA.
**I'm interested in medieval, renaissance, nineteenth century 
**(for dance mostly), 1910's (dancing again), and science 
**fiction costuming.
**
**My interest in costumes started when I wanted to make my 
**third doll a fairy-tale princess (I was only 13), which lead 
**me to the library & the many secondary and tertiary sources 
**on clothing, & here I am.
**
**
**I have been to several Costume Cons, mostly those on the East 
**Coast, & helped to run the Hartford one in 2000. Costume Cons 
**have a science fiction & fantasy masquerade (costume 
**contest), a historical masquerade, a future fashion show of 
**designs from the Future Fashion Folio, which were submitted 
**well in advance & picked for the folio & may be made up by 
**any member of the convention, a doll contest, displays of 
**past costumes, vendors, and many many classes & talks. I 
**enjoy them a lot, which would explain the 8 I have attended 
**and the next two (so far) that I plan to attend, which are 
**Chicago in 2003 and Atlanta in 2004.
**
**yours,
**Ann Catelli
**
**
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From: "Saragrace knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Use of grey in Elizabethan period-was historic maternity/ bad portrait of Elizabeth I
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 10:22:29 -0700
Status: RO

Gack-I can't believe I used to instead of two.  I hope it was a typo,
and not my brain going dead.

**
**A quick review of QEWU reveals to tidbits, both on page 247 

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Sep 20 14:25:51 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:  Croquis/Figure to Draw Clothes on...
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 18:25:40 +0000
Status: RO

I have a funny story about this (not really costume related...).

It was the beginning of my Fashion Figure Drawing class and my teacher was 
talking about the figures that are used to illustrate your clothing ideas.  
These figures are called a croquis (pronounced crow-key for all us 
non-French speaking people). One of the students in my class asked the 
teacher why they were called croquis.  And very matter-of-factly, my teacher 
responded with, "Well, because that is what you draw the clothes on."  Then 
she moved on to her next bit in the lecture as if she had really answered 
the question.  Everyone in the class just kind of looked at each other and 
shrugged.  I guess she really didn't know why it was called a croqui.

Now this is the new joke at home...  so why does such and such happen?  Why 
do you call such and such? Answer:  Well that's because you draw the clothes 
on it...

Well maybe it's not that funny...  You probably had to be there.

Anyway, here is one femail croquis that may be useful:

http://www.fidm.org/Academic/Admissions/fd2port.html

I did a search on the Internet for other croquis and was not successful.  
I'm at work, or I'd scan in some of the ones I drew to help you out.

Your Evil Queen costume sounds like so much fun.  I really hope you can post 
your diary of the construction.  We would all love to see it!

:) jessica


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Subject: [h-cost] lace book
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Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 00:05:32 +0200
Status: RO

Hello all,
A person from the lace list i am on sended this URL for an old antique lace
book. The book is downloadable if you have acrobat reader and a quick acces
to the net.
It is a french book, but it do have some lovely pictures of antique laces,
all the different kinds there are. Really a treassure.
Here is the URL if you are interrested:
http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/lace.html
Chapter 7 (i think) has my favourite laces, Malines, Lille and Chantilly-
and finally Blondes.
Hope you injoy it as i have.

Bjarne


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Sep 20 19:37:56 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Gates of Hell and Maternity wear
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Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 00:36:53 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

Sorry folks but real life has been a bit hectic
lately;

1.Gates of Hell - Robin,I haven't forgotten your
research and my promises,Waterstones is undergoing
major rennovations and their Costume section is
dismantled.The 2nd hand shop that I saw those costume
books in did not have the one that mentioned gates of
hell.I am going to the V&A as well as the BL next week
and will see if I can get any leads for you.

2.Maternity wear - of course I missed the entire post
but Nancy Bradfield has three garments dated
1770-75,1825-28 and 1895 that are drawn from extent
examples.(Costume in detail 1730-1930,Eric Dobby
Publishing 1968 thru' 1997,ISBN 1 85882 038 3 )The
last is interesting since in the under-bodice of the
garment there are two sets of lacings beneath the
sides of the breasts,probably in line with the edges
of the ribs that allows for the expanding
waistline.The over section of the bodice is slighlty
pouched which would not show much during the
pregnancy.Late Victorian women also wore maternity
corsets.Their earlier counterparts circa the 50's
hitched up the top hoop of the crinoline and shawls
were extensively used to drape and conceal the
pregnancy.(Remember that they were so prissy that
'nice' women didn't go out in public when in an
interesting condition.)The garment circa 1770-75 is a
maternity jacket.(Although in the Madness of King
George a heavily pregnant courtier is in full Court
Dress and standing at a soiree.)Prior to this there
doesn't seem to be much in the way of special wear
during pregnancies aside from relaxing the bodice or
corset lacings.I seem to recall that there were
varieties of nightgowns and robes for the laying-in of
the very wealthy.But this was from a very very old
dictionary of terms I once had and that too was a very
long time ago.

Marcus.

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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] I think there is an essential flaw in mycunningplan for an Elizabethian
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 17:35:44 -0700
Status: RO

I've heard the statement that women "had a baby every year" frequently, but
I have seen precious little evidence for it.  Real, hard evidence, not just
the "it must be so because they didn't use birth control" assumption.  My
Grandmother was born in 1880, she had three children, only one dieing in
infancy.  My mother was born in 1911,  she also had three children (we are
all to ornery to die -- yet).  My aunt, a contemporary of my mother had only
one child.  I realize that this is not good statistical data, because it is
anecdotal, but if you look at actual historical figures from the queens of
England (Victoria and Phillipa of Hainhault as exceptions) to the New
England Midwife whose diary was published recently I don't believe the "baby
every  year"  statement is commonly born out.  (No pun intended)

Just because there was no "pill" didn't mean that women hadn't figured out
what caused pregnancy, and how to counteract it.  They seem to have used
vinegar soaked sponges, various herbal products, Queen Anne's Lace seed,
etc.  Also lactating women tend to become pregnant less frequently (not that
there weren't "surprise" babies).  Nourishment has a lot to do with a
woman's ability to become pregnant as well.

So, my question is:  Are there any real, hard statistics to uphold the idea
that women were constantly pregnant, or could this be one of those
frequently repeated myths about the middle ages on the order of the lord's
right to the bride's first night?

Regina Romsey
-------------------------------------------
Yes, it used to intrigue me that none of the historical costume books
mentioned maternity clothes, seeing that it was normal for women of all
classes to have a baby every year (well, I did once see a Regency maternity
dress.) But of course they mostly just adapted their normal clothing.




Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From: "Joan Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] I think there is an essential flaw in mycunningplan for an Elizabethian
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 17:41:11 -0700
Status: RO

I don't know about actual statistical evidence, but I have been doing my
genealogy lately and looking through a lot of census records from 1800
through 1900 and there are a lot, and I mean probably 2/3 anyway, of women
in the census with at least 5 children.... and some with as many as 10! and
I would venture to say that most of them had them pretty much one right
after the other, as in one a year or every year and a half.


Joan


----- Original Message -----
From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2002 5:35 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] I think there is an essential flaw in mycunningplan
for an Elizabethian


> I've heard the statement that women "had a baby every year" frequently,
but
> I have seen precious little evidence for it.  Real, hard evidence, not
just
> the "it must be so because they didn't use birth control" assumption.  My
> Grandmother was born in 1880, she had three children, only one dieing in
> infancy.  My mother was born in 1911,  she also had three children (we are
> all to ornery to die -- yet).  My aunt, a contemporary of my mother had
only
> one child.  I realize that this is not good statistical data, because it
is
> anecdotal, but if you look at actual historical figures from the queens of
> England (Victoria and Phillipa of Hainhault as exceptions) to the New
> England Midwife whose diary was published recently I don't believe the
"baby
> every  year"  statement is commonly born out.  (No pun intended)
>
> Just because there was no "pill" didn't mean that women hadn't figured out
> what caused pregnancy, and how to counteract it.  They seem to have used
> vinegar soaked sponges, various herbal products, Queen Anne's Lace seed,
> etc.  Also lactating women tend to become pregnant less frequently (not
that
> there weren't "surprise" babies).  Nourishment has a lot to do with a
> woman's ability to become pregnant as well.
>
> So, my question is:  Are there any real, hard statistics to uphold the
idea
> that women were constantly pregnant, or could this be one of those
> frequently repeated myths about the middle ages on the order of the lord's
> right to the bride's first night?
>
> Regina Romsey
> -------------------------------------------
> Yes, it used to intrigue me that none of the historical costume books
> mentioned maternity clothes, seeing that it was normal for women of all
> classes to have a baby every year (well, I did once see a Regency
maternity
> dress.) But of course they mostly just adapted their normal clothing.
>
>
>
>
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
>
> _______________________________________________
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>
>
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>

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Subject: [h-cost] Help locating a portrait
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 21:16:53 -0500
Status: RO

Hi,
I'm trying to find a copy of Laudonia de Medici, by A. Bronzino. I've looked
at the web gallery of art, I've done a couple of different Google searches,
she doesn't seem to be anywhere.
I'll find time to go to the library, eventually, and should find it there,
but in the meantime, would someone just happen to know where I could find an
online copy? The only copy of it I have now is in 20,000 years of fashion,
but it's small, and it's black and white.
Thanks!
Audrey
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Sep 20 21:23:53 2002
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From: kate <macailith@yahoo.com>
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 18:22:41 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Greetings Audrey!

Good luck in your search. I've been looking for years
and have yet to find one. If you do, please, please,
please, let me know!

A friend tried to photograph the painting for me, but
it's very high up on the wall and it was too dark in
the Plazzo Pitti to get a decent picture.

kate
PS--I've also seen her name as "Laudomia de Medici."

BTW--don't bother buying the catalog of the Plazzo
Pitti. There are NO photos of her portrait. :-(


--- Audrey Bergeron-Morin <> wrote:
> Hi,
> I'm trying to find a copy of Laudonia de Medici, by
> A. Bronzino. I've looked
> at the web gallery of art, I've done a couple of
> different Google searches,
> she doesn't seem to be anywhere.
> I'll find time to go to the library, eventually, and
> should find it there,
> but in the meantime, would someone just happen to
> know where I could find an
> online copy? The only copy of it I have now is in
> 20,000 years of fashion,
> but it's small, and it's black and white.
> Thanks!
> Audrey
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Sep 20 21:40:24 2002
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Bella?= <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help locating a portrait
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 11:38:41 +1000 (EST)
Status: RO

 --- Audrey Bergeron-Morin <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
wrote: > Hi,
> I'm trying to find a copy of Laudonia de Medici, by
> A. Bronzino. I've looked
> at the web gallery of art, I've done a couple of
> different Google searches,
> she doesn't seem to be anywhere.
> I'll find time to go to the library, eventually, and
> should find it there,
> but in the meantime, would someone just happen to
> know where I could find an
> online copy? The only copy of it I have now is in
> 20,000 years of fashion,
> but it's small, and it's black and white.
> Thanks!
> Audrey


I've come across this problem before, and in many
cases it happens because what is known as "Portrait of
Laudomia de Medici" in one book or catalogue, is
online or in another book as "portrait of an unknown
woman" or some thing along those lines. If you could
scan your pic and upload it somewhere we can take a
look at it, someone may know it by another name. I'd
be happy to upload it to my site if you don't know
anyone else who could do this for you. Just a thought.


Bella

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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 21:51:40 -0500
Status: RO

This is posting late, but here goes.  A costume con is panels on various
types of costume/costuming construction, how to's or how not to.  If you're
into masquerade, movement or presentation tutorials. And everywhere and
everyone in costume or bits of costume.  Talking about costume, thinking
about costume.  In other words business as usual..

Genie

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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2002 20:12:49 -0700
Status: RO

(I apologize in advance for responding so very late.  Our computer was down
and now I have over 1,000 message to wade through.  I've gotten this far in
1 1/2 hours.)

I never tried to read the messages because I hate Yahoo.  I've signed up for
it a couple of times and then Yahoo says that someone else is using my name
and I need to find another one.  As long as you make the fabric swaps on
Yahoo, I won't be able to be involved, but if it was on the list - with the
caveat that the communications immediately go private - I would be interestd
in participating.

Just one more person's opinion that Yahoo is truly following in it's
original definition.

LynnD
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2002 2:29 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fw: CommunityZero: Important Changes to Core
Membership


>
> On Thu, 5 Sep 2002, Heather Rose Jones wrote:
>
> > Can anyone give specific numbers on the volume for the swap & sell
> > group?  I know that it can be good to separate discussion and
> > commercial aspects of a group, but if the "commercial" volume is
> > extremely small, might it be a more efficient compromise to go back to
> > having people announce available items on the main list -- as long as
> > we work really really hard to keep the subsequent responses to private
> > e-mail?
>
> There's only been a handful of messages since the group started (around
> the turn of this year) -- maybe less than a dozen in all that time.
> Perhaps announcements on the main list would work well enough. I think
> when Danielle started the side list, it was in expectation that we'd have
> too many sale offers to politely handle on the list, and that perhaps
> people were refraining from posting such things to avoid inappropriate
> volume of sales posts.
>
> Before that, though, I periodically offered extra fabric on the list, and
> I've seen other people offer patterns. I don't mind that myself, but
> perhaps other people do. I think a lot depends on not abusing the
> audience.
>
> I think one reason the volume was so low is that CZ isn't really an email
> list; it's a web page, and messages appear there. We get notifications
> when someone posts, but we have to go to the page to read, and it can be
> difficult to actually find your way to the messages.
>
> --Robin
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: 1870s gowns
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Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 10:50:50 +0100
Status: RO

<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>
<P>&gt;I'm in the beginning stages of planning an 1873-5 (ish) evening gown.<BR><BR>I just came on here to recommend The Buccaneers and I see that Kendra has beaten me to it! I just tracked down a secondhand copy of this (for some reason known only to themselves the BBC has deleted the video over here in the UK and US tapes won't play on our machines&nbsp;- you'd think they'd be eager to recoup some of the ££thousands they must have spent on those costumes, but still..). I've been watching it this morning and it is so divine costume-wise. I'm not sure how accurate it is - there seem to be an awful lot of heaving cleavages in daylight hours which I'd be suspicious of - but oh my gosh they're such beautiful beautiful dresses....</P>
<P>Kate (another one), drooling ever so slightly....<BR></P></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: <a href='http://g.msn.com/1HM1ENUK/c152??PI=44363'>Click Here</a><br></html>
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Historical pregnancy, was Re: [h-cost] I think there is an essential flaw in mycunningplan for an Elizabethian
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 12:25:38 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

> > Just because there was no "pill" didn't mean that women hadn't figured out
> > what caused pregnancy, and how to counteract it.  They seem to have used
> > vinegar soaked sponges, various herbal products, Queen Anne's Lace seed,
> > etc.  

As a little anecdote from my family, my great-grandma (whose ring and only
valuable possession I am wearing every day *S* and who I will always remember
as the old lovely lady all in stout and strict black with the white neat hair
bun, she had hip length hair until her death!) had 12 children, and most of
those survived. My 'Omama' was born in the 1880s/90s.

She didn't know, she honestly did NOT know during the first 3 children WHERE
they came from. I am not making this up. She was 15 or such when she was maried
to her husband (no, she was not asked, they were in Masuren - now Poland - back
then a part of Germany, and the husband's family had originated in Russia). She
told my mother that she kept wondering, not being able to realise that the
grunting man and the discomfort for a few minutes in her bed had anything to do
with pregnancy, and she said to my mum that her mother told her finally: 'where
there is nothing getting in, there will be nothing coming out.' and this was
her entire SexEd. She also said that from then on she used to wear her red
petticoat as often as possible and her husband complained that she wore it so
often, asking if it was her time 'again'. You can guess surely, the red
petticoat meant she had her period and was untouchable.

These were rural people, and she was brought up in utter ignorance, and spend
many years of her life being pregnant, because this was 'what a good woman did:
shut up and let him get over with, and bear him children, and obey'. They then
had to move to the mid western part of Germany into the city where I was born,
which was a coal mining centre until the 1960s/70s, because they were starving
in Masuren.

Oh my, I tell you all something, I loved her, and I think she is/would be proud
and happy, that her two great-granddaughters are absolutely independant, free,
and don't even need to think about emancipation, because we just are.

Western society has come a long way...

Nicole
P.S. The ring has an extra story: it is a yellowy brown stone and everyone
always smiled patronisingly at her, because brown stones are worth nothing,
right? But it was the only possession she ever had,and she wore it until the
ring part was worn through, the setting is only silver, but the stone is pretty
huge. Anyway, no one wanted it when she died, so I, the youngest kiddie, asked
if I may have it, coz I loved her and because I LOVE big fat glittery stones,
always have. (now there's a surprise *LOL*). Finally, last december, I took it
to a jeweller friend, because the ring had broken, worn through so thin. he
looked at it, went very still and quiet,stared at it and examined it for a long
long time, finally asking if I knew what I had. I said 'yeah, sorry, I know it
is just glass and worth nothing, but please repair it because it was my
Omamas'. he just shook his head and proceeded to tell me gently that this was
one of the biggest, purest, with the most lustre, natural citrines he had ever
seen, and it is worth several thousand pounds, maybe even ten! AAAAHHHHHH!!!!!
I keeled over, fanned myself, then laughed my butt off and slapped an imaginary
High Five to my Omama somewhere in heaven, coz she DID have a precious ring!!!
It was her sole precious possession, and now it is my sole precious possession. *G*

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Sep 21 07:38:48 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] E-bay Girls Authentic ETHNIC/PEASANT COSTUME Polish
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Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 12:40:06 +0100
Status: RO

Hi all,

Someone may be interested in
Girls Authentic ETHNIC/PEASANT COSTUME Polish
Item # 713560792

at
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=713560792


There are a lot of pictures so it takes quite a time to load, but I
think it's worth the wait:-)

best wishes
Stevie



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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Sep 21 07:53:50 2002
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Subject: Re: Historical pregnancy, was Re: [h-cost] I think there is an essential flaw in mycunningplan for an Elizabethian
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Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 07:44:41 -0400
Status: RO

Nicole, what a wonderful story.

I have my mom's mother's ring, and a beautiful topaz that she wore every
day. They have no real monetary value, but they are loaded with value to me!

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "N Kipar" <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 21, 2002 7:25 AM
Subject: Historical pregnancy, was Re: [h-cost] I think there is an
essential flaw in mycunningplan for an Elizabethian


> > > Just because there was no "pill" didn't mean that women hadn't figured
out
> > > what caused pregnancy, and how to counteract it.  They seem to have
used
> > > vinegar soaked sponges, various herbal products, Queen Anne's Lace
seed,
> > > etc.
>
> As a little anecdote from my family, my great-grandma (whose ring and only
> valuable possession I am wearing every day *S* and who I will always
remember
> as the old lovely lady all in stout and strict black with the white neat
hair
> bun, she had hip length hair until her death!) had 12 children, and most
of
> those survived. My 'Omama' was born in the 1880s/90s.
>
> She didn't know, she honestly did NOT know during the first 3 children
WHERE
> they came from. I am not making this up. She was 15 or such when she was
maried
> to her husband (no, she was not asked, they were in Masuren - now Poland -
back
> then a part of Germany, and the husband's family had originated in
Russia). She
> told my mother that she kept wondering, not being able to realise that the
> grunting man and the discomfort for a few minutes in her bed had anything
to do
> with pregnancy, and she said to my mum that her mother told her finally:
'where
> there is nothing getting in, there will be nothing coming out.' and this
was
> her entire SexEd. She also said that from then on she used to wear her red
> petticoat as often as possible and her husband complained that she wore it
so
> often, asking if it was her time 'again'. You can guess surely, the red
> petticoat meant she had her period and was untouchable.
>
> These were rural people, and she was brought up in utter ignorance, and
spend
> many years of her life being pregnant, because this was 'what a good woman
did:
> shut up and let him get over with, and bear him children, and obey'. They
then
> had to move to the mid western part of Germany into the city where I was
born,
> which was a coal mining centre until the 1960s/70s, because they were
starving
> in Masuren.
>
> Oh my, I tell you all something, I loved her, and I think she is/would be
proud
> and happy, that her two great-granddaughters are absolutely independant,
free,
> and don't even need to think about emancipation, because we just are.
>
> Western society has come a long way...
>
> Nicole
> P.S. The ring has an extra story: it is a yellowy brown stone and everyone
> always smiled patronisingly at her, because brown stones are worth
nothing,
> right? But it was the only possession she ever had,and she wore it until
the
> ring part was worn through, the setting is only silver, but the stone is
pretty
> huge. Anyway, no one wanted it when she died, so I, the youngest kiddie,
asked
> if I may have it, coz I loved her and because I LOVE big fat glittery
stones,
> always have. (now there's a surprise *LOL*). Finally, last december, I
took it
> to a jeweller friend, because the ring had broken, worn through so thin.
he
> looked at it, went very still and quiet,stared at it and examined it for a
long
> long time, finally asking if I knew what I had. I said 'yeah, sorry, I
know it
> is just glass and worth nothing, but please repair it because it was my
> Omamas'. he just shook his head and proceeded to tell me gently that this
was
> one of the biggest, purest, with the most lustre, natural citrines he had
ever
> seen, and it is worth several thousand pounds, maybe even ten!
AAAAHHHHHH!!!!!
> I keeled over, fanned myself, then laughed my butt off and slapped an
imaginary
> High Five to my Omama somewhere in heaven, coz she DID have a precious
ring!!!
> It was her sole precious possession, and now it is my sole precious
possession. *G*
>
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
> Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: marquis@kipar.org
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Everything you'll ever need on one web page
> from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
> http://uk.my.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 14:41:07 +0200
Status: RO

This is a little off topic to your question, but i have often wondered how
wonderfull it would be if someone, author -art historian or other would
compleate every countrys portraits in annalogic order.
Whouw what a treassure that would be! and every country had such books at
least at the library with all countries portraits.
I found one book once many years ago, but it was only text with a
description of each portrait in Denmark, 6 large thick books full of
descriptions. This was in Roskilde.
Wouldnt that be wonderfull?

Bjarne


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Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 07:39:37 -0700
Status: RO

Audrey, if you will tell me what section or page it is on I can scan it
for you and put it up on my website.  I will try to find it myself, but
I can't remember if there is an index to the plates.

Sg

**-----Original Message-----
**From: h-costume-admin@indra.com 
**[mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin
**Sent: Friday, September 20, 2002 7:17 PM
**To: h-costume@indra.com
**Subject: [h-cost] Help locating a portrait
**
**
**Hi,
**I'm trying to find a copy of Laudonia de Medici, by A. 
**Bronzino. I've looked at the web gallery of art, I've done a 
**couple of different Google searches, she doesn't seem to be 
**anywhere. I'll find time to go to the library, eventually, 
**and should find it there, but in the meantime, would someone 
**just happen to know where I could find an online copy? The 
**only copy of it I have now is in 20,000 years of fashion, but 
**it's small, and it's black and white. Thanks! Audrey 
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Subject: Re: Historical pregnancy, was Re: [h-cost] I think there is an essential flaw in mycunningplan for an Elizabethian
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Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 11:48:58 -0500
Status: RO

I have no idea if my family can be taken as average or not. They were
German immigrants to Chicago- came over some time in the 1870-1880's. My
great grandmother on my father's side had 11 children, two of whom died
in infancy. But she didn't do it one right after the other. Her last
child (who died) was born at the same time her oldest daughter was having
her first child! Tillie (oldest daughter) didn't marry particularly young
either, she was in her twenties. My grandmother (second oldest) had to
help raise her younger siblings so when she got married (1914), she vowed
she was only going to have one child as she'd already raised so many.
Sure enough, my dad's an only child. Even if GGM didn't have access to
any sort of BC, obviously Grandmother did, unfortunately she died before
I was of an age to ask her questions like that, so exactly HOW she
managed to have only one child is a mystery. 

Hmmmm.....this is almost completely devoid of costume content....have to
watch that......

Karen

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Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 10:04:56 -0700
Status: RO

Kate is right, the costumes in The Buccaneers are not 100% accurate, but
they are great inspiration.  I don't think many movies DO have perfectly
accurate costumes.  You need to take them with a grain of salt as regards to
accuracy, but that doesn't mean that they can't be fun!  I myself like to
see how people move in costume, and when you can see a decent production
where the women are wearing corsets etc., you can get a decent idea.  I love
that in The Buccaneers, they show the girls running and climbing trees and
all sorts of other things that you normally don't see women do in period
costumes.

Watch the video and then sit down and compare what you saw with contemporary
fashion plates and patterns from Janet Arnold etc.

- Kendra

>----- Original Message -----
>From: Kate Cole
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Sent: Saturday, September 21, 2002 2:50 AM
>Subject: [h-cost] Re: 1870s gowns


>>I'm in the beginning stages of planning an 1873-5 (ish) evening gown.

>I just came on here to recommend The Buccaneers and I see that Kendra has
beaten me to it! I just tracked down a secondhand >copy of this (for some
reason known only to themselves the BBC has deleted the video over here in
the UK and US tapes won't >play on our machines - you'd think they'd be
eager to recoup some of the ££thousands they must have spent on those
costumes, but >still..). I've been watching it this morning and it is so
divine costume-wise. I'm not sure how accurate it is - there seem to be an
awful >lot of heaving cleavages in daylight hours which I'd be suspicious
of - but oh my gosh they're such beautiful beautiful dresses....
>Kate (another one), drooling ever so slightly....





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Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 18:55:25 +0100
Status: RO

Eve's herb give a great insight to the history of herbal birth control and
abortion. Eve btw wore afig leaf (sorry best costume content I could come up
with !)

Mel

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From: Jonna Hayden <jonna_hayden@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help locating a portrait
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Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 11:52:12 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

Greetings-

I have a small jpeg of her in color--can you take
attachments?

Jonna

--- Audrey Bergeron-Morin <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
wrote:
> Hi,
> I'm trying to find a copy of Laudonia de Medici, by A.
> Bronzino. I've looked
> at the web gallery of art, I've done a couple of
> different Google searches,
> she doesn't seem to be anywhere.
> I'll find time to go to the library, eventually, and
> should find it there,
> but in the meantime, would someone just happen to know
> where I could find an
> online copy? The only copy of it I have now is in 20,000
> years of fashion,
> but it's small, and it's black and white.
> Thanks!
> Audrey
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: child spacing (long)
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Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 16:38:26 -0400
Status: RO



This is getting pretty off-topic, but I wanted to write one more time
because I'm interested in this subject. I was not picking on Cassandra or
anyone else with my first post, just writing to correct an error I see
frequently in many places.

Some people (men and women both) are not very fertile. Even today, fertility
specialists don't know what to do about most kinds of male infertility.
There have always been people who are otherwise healthy and who, for no
known reason, have only one or two children. The fact that a woman in the
past had few children doesn't NECESSARILY mean that she did anything to keep
it that way.

A woman with a normal fertility cycle is fertile for several days every
month. Some women have longer cycles and others, which leaves them with
fewer fertile days per years. Others have shorter cycles. But NO ONE is
fertile for more than a few days every cycle. If women have intercourse
during those fertile days, they are probably going to get pregnant. While a
lot of research is going on to help infertile women with diet, vitamins,
etc., it's clear that most women who are even marginally healthy will get
pregnant fairly often if they do nothing to prevent it and are married (or
whatever) to a fertile man. That means lots of pregnancies, unless you know
effective birth control methods or you decide to abstain.

There is plenty of published, scientific evidence to show that breastfeeding
GENERALLY renders a woman infertile for many months. How? The hormones
produced during lactation keep them from menstruating. A woman can't get
pregnant again until after her menstruation returns. (But of course, she can
alwasy get pregnant the first time she ovulates, before she's had a period.)
So over a large population, breastfeeding spaces children about two years
apart. However, the number of months without menstruation varies widely (I
know a woman who bottle fed her children, but didn't have a period for
nearly a year with either one!), and as I previously mentioned, using a wet
nurse means that the woman's fertility will come back much earlier. Wet
nurses were VERY popular in many time periods, even for relatively poor
women. I read a very gruesome article (sorry -- no source) about how it was
popular for French women of all classes to send their children to the
country to be fed on cow's milk a century or two ago, even though the death
rate (no Pasteurization) was appallingly high.

Finally, it's relatively easy for a woman to avoid intercourse during her
fertile days, if she has a regular cycle and if she knows what to look for.
I don't know how widespread this information was in the past -- some people
say very, and some say not at all. I find reports on that to be biased by
people's political and social beliefs, not by research.

My point, again, is that in the past it was far more "normal" than it is
today to have large families, but it was also far more "normal" (because of
restrictions on marriage) for women to have no children. But these large
families were not necessarily produced by having a baby every year. We don't
know how much of it was by design, but many women also had small families.
The difference is the distribution of these types. And thus, though many
women needed to be able to adjust their clothes, many others didn't -- ever.

Which still doesn't explain the relative scarcity of maternity clothes.
Maybe, like today's maternity clothes, they got passed around until they
fell apart? 

Gail Finke
shutting up now

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Sep 21 17:18:52 2002
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From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help locating a portrait
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Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 17:19:08 -0500
Status: RO

Oh yes, yes definitely!
I went to the library today and just couldn't find ONE example of her, and
I'd just LOVE to see her in color. I do have the black and white small pic
in 20,000 years of fashion, but it's not ideal :-)
Thank you so much :-)
Audrey

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jonna Hayden" <jonna_hayden@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 21, 2002 1:52 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help locating a portrait


> Greetings-
>
> I have a small jpeg of her in color--can you take
> attachments?
>
> Jonna
>
> --- Audrey Bergeron-Morin <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
> wrote:
> > Hi,
> > I'm trying to find a copy of Laudonia de Medici, by A.
> > Bronzino. I've looked
> > at the web gallery of art, I've done a couple of
> > different Google searches,
> > she doesn't seem to be anywhere.
> > I'll find time to go to the library, eventually, and
> > should find it there,
> > but in the meantime, would someone just happen to know
> > where I could find an
> > online copy? The only copy of it I have now is in 20,000
> > years of fashion,
> > but it's small, and it's black and white.
> > Thanks!
> > Audrey
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
> http://sbc.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Helen  Partner" <mail@helandbel.fsnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <B9B24E80.4E4C%gailscott@eos.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: child spacing (long)
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Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 23:49:51 +0100
Status: RO

Oh boy, I really don't want to get into this one..and despite DH advising me
not to..here goes...


Gail said
"If women have intercourse> during those fertile days, they are probably
going to get pregnant. While a> lot of research is going on to help
infertile women with diet, vitamins,> etc., it's clear that most women who
are even marginally healthy will get> pregnant fairly often if they do
nothing to prevent it"

I don't want to patronise, but this is a real generalisation.  Take a look
at any number  of web sites (ie TCOYF - taking charge of your fertility and
ttc - trying to conceive) and you'll see it's a far more complex issue than
this and not so easy to achieve, even for healthy women!  I personally have
an issue with (as do others) the term "infertile", too..having had fertility
problems for years.

"The hormones> produced during lactation keep them from menstruating."

May I correct you? The hormones produced during lactation can generally
prevent/suppress ovulation, not menstruation

 "Finally, it's relatively easy for a woman to avoid intercourse during her>
fertile days, if she has a regular cycle and if she knows what to look for.
> I don't know how widespread this information was in the past -- some
people> say very, and some say not at all. I find reports on that to be
biased by> people's political and social beliefs, not by research."

I think it may be easier for some women today, to avoid sex as a whole.
However, I think it presupposes that a great many women today even
understand how their bodies work and how to tell whether they're "fertile"
or not!!  Honestly, believe me, I thought I was really knowledgeable before
I got my hands on a certain "life-changing" book, which is an accepted
"fertility awareness bible"..boy, was I wrong!  Anyway, to the crux of
it..even if a woman in the past had a great knowledge of a) the
sympto-thermal method and b) her own body, how easy was it for her to tell
her husband he couldn't have sex and to prevent it from happening? I think I
know the answer to *that* one!

Anyway, I think one very big/significant issue is being overlooked here, in
the discussion of whether or not, women had a pregnancy every year.  It is
entirely possible that many women were pregnant every year, look at Queen
Anne...19 pregnancies!  Anyway, the issue is this..many pregnancies did not
go to term, ending in miscarriage, many pregnancies ended in
stillbirth..these  go unrecorded on the vast majority family trees.  The
incidence of miscarriage even today, is 1 in 4 pregnancies..maybe even
higher.  Who knows, with  lower levels of maternal nutrition and higher
incidence of  disease or teratogens, miscarriage may have been more common
than today.  Without throwing accurate statistics and data into the mix, I
think it's unsafe to make any kind of firm conclusion.  On the grounds that
we don't have that much info on miscarriage and stillbirth in past
societies, I think we have to say the juries out.  Live births don't
necessarily equal the full number of pregnancies.  Even today, we don't have
the full picture on miscarriage for many reasons..women didn't even know
they were pregnant, foetal death doesn't get recorded until 24 weeks
gestation etc etc.

Anyway, 'nuff said..and Blackadder's on the telly..oh and my baby is
awake..must go and practice my wet-nurse role...again  ;-)

Regards

Helen
----- Original Message -----


From: "Gail & Scott Finke" <gailscott@eos.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: 21 September 2002 21:38
Subject: [h-cost] Re: child spacing (long)
>
> This is getting pretty off-topic, but I wanted to write one more time
> because I'm interested in this subject. I was not picking on Cassandra or
> anyone else with my first post, just writing to correct an error I see
> frequently in many places.
>
> Some people (men and women both) are not very fertile. Even today,
fertility
> specialists don't know what to do about most kinds of male infertility.
> There have always been people who are otherwise healthy and who, for no
> known reason, have only one or two children. The fact that a woman in the
> past had few children doesn't NECESSARILY mean that she did anything to
keep
> it that way.
>
> A woman with a normal fertility cycle is fertile for several days every
> month. Some women have longer cycles and others, which leaves them with
> fewer fertile days per years. Others have shorter cycles. But NO ONE is
> fertile for more than a few days every cycle. If women have intercourse
> during those fertile days, they are probably going to get pregnant. While
a
> lot of research is going on to help infertile women with diet, vitamins,
> etc., it's clear that most women who are even marginally healthy will get
> pregnant fairly often if they do nothing to prevent it and are married (or
> whatever) to a fertile man. That means lots of pregnancies, unless you
know
> effective birth control methods or you decide to abstain.
>
> There is plenty of published, scientific evidence to show that
breastfeeding
> GENERALLY renders a woman infertile for many months. How? The hormones
> produced during lactation keep them from menstruating. A woman can't get
> pregnant again until after her menstruation returns. (But of course, she
can
> alwasy get pregnant the first time she ovulates, before she's had a
period.)
> So over a large population, breastfeeding spaces children about two years
> apart. However, the number of months without menstruation varies widely (I
> know a woman who bottle fed her children, but didn't have a period for
> nearly a year with either one!), and as I previously mentioned, using a
wet
> nurse means that the woman's fertility will come back much earlier. Wet
> nurses were VERY popular in many time periods, even for relatively poor
> women. I read a very gruesome article (sorry -- no source) about how it
was
> popular for French women of all classes to send their children to the
> country to be fed on cow's milk a century or two ago, even though the
death
> rate (no Pasteurization) was appallingly high.
>
> Finally, it's relatively easy for a woman to avoid intercourse during her
> fertile days, if she has a regular cycle and if she knows what to look
for.
> I don't know how widespread this information was in the past -- some
people
> say very, and some say not at all. I find reports on that to be biased by
> people's political and social beliefs, not by research.
>
> My point, again, is that in the past it was far more "normal" than it is
> today to have large families, but it was also far more "normal" (because
of
> restrictions on marriage) for women to have no children. But these large
> families were not necessarily produced by having a baby every year. We
don't
> know how much of it was by design, but many women also had small families.
> The difference is the distribution of these types. And thus, though many
> women needed to be able to adjust their clothes, many others didn't --
ever.
>
> Which still doesn't explain the relative scarcity of maternity clothes.
> Maybe, like today's maternity clothes, they got passed around until they
> fell apart?
>
> Gail Finke
> shutting up now
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help locating a portrait
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Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 23:06:14 -0500
Status: RO

Ah, one of my favorites.  As far as I can tell, there are no on-line copies 
of this portrait.  I have searched every possible thing I could think of to 
try and no luck.  If you do find one, please share!

IIRC, there is a larger black and white copy of the picture in "The 
Portraits of the Medici" books.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 09:16 PM 9/20/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi,
>I'm trying to find a copy of Laudonia de Medici, by A. Bronzino. I've looked
>at the web gallery of art, I've done a couple of different Google searches,
>she doesn't seem to be anywhere.
>I'll find time to go to the library, eventually, and should find it there,
>but in the meantime, would someone just happen to know where I could find an
>online copy? The only copy of it I have now is in 20,000 years of fashion,
>but it's small, and it's black and white.
>Thanks!
>Audrey

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help locating a portrait
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Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2002 23:07:06 -0500
Status: RO

OOOOOOO!  Can you send me a copy???  Yes, I can accept attachments.

cheers,
Danielle

At 11:52 AM 9/21/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>Greetings-
>
>I have a small jpeg of her in color--can you take
>attachments?
>
>Jonna
>
>--- Audrey Bergeron-Morin <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
>wrote:
> > Hi,
> > I'm trying to find a copy of Laudonia de Medici, by A.
> > Bronzino...

<snip>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: child spacing (long)
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Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 07:41:11 +0100
Status: RO

>I don't want to patronise, but this is a real generalisation.

I imagine that is why Gail used the term MOST becauseshe recognises it as a
generlisation, certainly that is how I read it.

>you'll see it's a far more complex issue than
this and not so easy to achieve, even for healthy women!

Most healthy women I know have problems not concieving, rather than the
other way around.

>I personally have
an issue with (as do others) the term "infertile", too..having had fertility
problems for years.

Whatever it is called fertility problems in human appear to be on the
increase, in England this has led to some reports which have caused concern.

>I think it may be easier for some women today, to avoid sex as a whole.
However, I think it presupposes that a great many women today even
understand how their bodies work and how to tell whether they're "fertile"
or not!!

> Honestly, believe me, I thought I was really knowledgeable before
I got my hands on a certain "life-changing" book, which is an accepted
"fertility awareness bible"..boy, was I wrong!  Anyway, to the crux of
it..even if a woman in the past had a great knowledge of a) the
sympto-thermal method

I don't need to know anything about the sympto-thermo method, I just know
when I am fertile.
Most animals are aware subconciously of the need to mate at the correct
time, this need has been honed by evolution as those who ran off from males
at the correct time failed to pass on their genes :) Whilst I recognise many
people these days seem totally oblivious to their natural rhythems, I can
assure you it is perfectly possible and I think more likely to be something
one had a greater awarness of in the past. I can also tell the moment of
conception, much to most chaps puzzlement.


>and b) her own body, how easy was it for her to tell
her husband he couldn't have sex and to prevent it from happening? I think I
know the answer to *that* one!

Now that is a huge generlisation, it makes every man of the past to be a sex
salivating raping monster !! As there is plenty of evidence for men holding
off from sex and pregnancy from young brides (13th C England), contraception
condom type devices (many cultures and times), instructions on withdrawl,
sex without intercourse. Days and times when men must not touch (sexually)
women, it is clear that prevention of pregancy in many cultures was
recognised and practiced by both sexs and that often the male had a part in
that care. There are many instances where men of the past show great
tenderness and respect for their wives, so I feel this is massivly unfair.

>Anyway, I think one very big/significant issue is being overlooked here, in
the discussion of whether or not, women had a pregnancy every year.  It is
entirely possible that many women were pregnant every year, look at Queen
Anne...19 pregnancies!

Average spacing of childbirth over many cultures would appear to be
generally thus

2 years agrarian
4 years hunter gatherer

Those with titles cannot be considered the norm , as generally there are
increased pressures to give birth more frequently & greater oppertunities
for farming kids out to wet nurses etc. But the women I know with large
families say 10 plus living, do not seem to resent the fact at all or look
any less healthy than any other woman of their age, these are almost modern,
but most subject to some dietary lack now being quite old(ie lived in poor
times or the Wars & rationing)

>.  Anyway, the issue is this..many pregnancies did not
go to term, ending in miscarriage, many pregnancies ended in
stillbirth..these  go unrecorded on the vast majority family trees.

Yes of couse, but we are forgetting miscarriage is a natural thing and often
happens because it should. Animals spontaniously abort too.

 >Who knows, with  lower levels of maternal nutrition and higher
incidence of  disease or teratogens, miscarriage may have been more common
than today.

Or lower. There is always much banded about as to how women were badly fed
etc in past times. Again this is another HUGE generlisation. In one book I
saw it suggested all women in Anglo Saxon & medieval times lacked Iron to
the extent of being deficient. To take a single group example from a Norfolk
8-9th C grraveyard, there are no signs of anemia the women (and men) are
hugely muscled far more that todays people, their size is comparable to the
modern population, and the biggest pathalogical symtom ? Gum diesease.

The evidence in many cases does not support low nutrition. (Victorians are a
differant matter)

Child mortality is extremely hard to assess archaeologically. Maternal death
in or due to pregnancy ? Well it is a common blame factor, but I've yet to
see much convincing evidence to back it up. Generally there is a higher
recorded death in the fertile years amoung females (but often these are not
definate female IDs) and there are more females dyeing in old age than men.
I need to do a better study on these but there just seems to be more females
that men (ie is more died at 20-35) where did all the extra old ladies come
from ?

Anyway going back to costume, the lack of survival may simply be because the
bigger pregnancy garments were more able to be remodelled into fashionable
items when completed, in the eras when women worn more fitting styles. Most
early styles are pretty much the same for pregnancy & no pregnancy wear, I
didn't make any special kit (except a slitted undertunic for feeding) for
most periods (I wore 5th, 13th 15th, 17th and 19th, 20th C kit when
pregnant) The only one being the 19th. I hate maternity clothes and wore
adapted or bigger modern kit, chosing styles which accomodated my huge lumps
!

I have to confess a certain bafflement a maternity corsets as I can't
imagine getting my lump into one :) However they wore them from the start
and against medical advice, the baby generally gowing into completly the
wrong place (the writings of the time on this are horrible!) and often died
as a result. But these maternity corsets were only used in a tiny time frame
over all history & all other times & cultures should not be judged by
Victorian mess ups such as corseting, nutrition and so on.

Mel
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Mostly OT: I'm so excited, I'll be an 'aunt'/godmother!
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Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 13:23:46 +0100 (BST)
Status: RO

Dear All,

I just have to share, I am SO excited and happy that I keep bouncing about like
a rubber ball, although I should sit down quietly and finish that blasted part
draft for the PhD that my supervisor wants to see tomorrow morning, but...

My very very best friend phoned and told me that she is pregnant and the baby
is due in April!!! Now you have to know that Sushi and I have been best friends
since Uni, since about 1989, and she is 40 now, 7 years older than I am. It was
always clear that I won't have children and my sister neither, but all my life
long I so much wanted to become an aunt. We have been talking about this for
all these years, joking and laughing and saying I'll spoil her kiddie rotten
and make lil costumes and be the 'aunt from hell' that every kid loves but the
parents run away screaming, because kiddo wants to go back to auntie. *just
kidding* I almost lost hope! Her partner is my partner's best friend (we did a
country-swap, he lives in germany now, I live in England :-) and they aren't
married (yet), but lo and behold, they didn't plan it, but whoops, she got
pregnant and they are very happy about it (hehe, I wonder if they are as happy
as I am *grins*) and will marry before Christmas, back in Germany. Only the
civic wedding for now, the big church one will come next year, when she doesn't
look 'like a stranded walrus' anymore (quote my friend), and she asked me to
ber her witness!!! I am so happy I just have to tell everyone!
Costume content: I HAVE NOTHING TO WEAR FOR THE WEDDING!!!! AAHHRRGHHH!!!
First of all, I hope everything will be fine and no problem with the pregnancy,
and secondly, where do I find good patterns for baby clothes and what fabrics
should I use, I always joked that I'll make extraordinary looking baby clothes
for her kiddie.
I would LOVE to make a mini-costume, some of you I know have made one, Margo?
Was that you? And the Cynthia twin costumes were just a scream, but I know
NOTHING at all whatsoever about babies and sizes and anything, could someone
point me to somewhere? I want to take time off and actually be there next
April, and would love to give her a mini-costume as birth present (it has to be
something uni-sex as long as we don't know what it will be) and the baby
blanket I always promised her for the last 12 years: purple wool with gold
stars.

Nicole - praying everything will go well and who will be the proudest aunt on
this planet ;-))))

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs 
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gates of Hell and Maternity wear
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Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 14:43:47 +0200
Status: RO

Hi,
Just a little topic, sorry for mending here,
The Costume Magazine from the Costume society in England had a Victorian
maternity dress. I think it was back in 1978.
This had pleats in the back like a sack gown, long sleaves and very simple
but pretty in shape.

Bjarne

----- Original Message -----
From: "marcus findlay-arthur" <mangal_sews@yahoo.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 21, 2002 1:36 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Gates of Hell and Maternity wear


> Sorry folks but real life has been a bit hectic
> lately;
>
> 1.Gates of Hell - Robin,I haven't forgotten your
> research and my promises,Waterstones is undergoing
> major rennovations and their Costume section is
> dismantled.The 2nd hand shop that I saw those costume
> books in did not have the one that mentioned gates of
> hell.I am going to the V&A as well as the BL next week
> and will see if I can get any leads for you.
>
> 2.Maternity wear - of course I missed the entire post
> but Nancy Bradfield has three garments dated
> 1770-75,1825-28 and 1895 that are drawn from extent
> examples.(Costume in detail 1730-1930,Eric Dobby
> Publishing 1968 thru' 1997,ISBN 1 85882 038 3 )The
> last is interesting since in the under-bodice of the
> garment there are two sets of lacings beneath the
> sides of the breasts,probably in line with the edges
> of the ribs that allows for the expanding
> waistline.The over section of the bodice is slighlty
> pouched which would not show much during the
> pregnancy.Late Victorian women also wore maternity
> corsets.Their earlier counterparts circa the 50's
> hitched up the top hoop of the crinoline and shawls
> were extensively used to drape and conceal the
> pregnancy.(Remember that they were so prissy that
> 'nice' women didn't go out in public when in an
> interesting condition.)The garment circa 1770-75 is a
> maternity jacket.(Although in the Madness of King
> George a heavily pregnant courtier is in full Court
> Dress and standing at a soiree.)Prior to this there
> doesn't seem to be much in the way of special wear
> during pregnancies aside from relaxing the bodice or
> corset lacings.I seem to recall that there were
> varieties of nightgowns and robes for the laying-in of
> the very wealthy.But this was from a very very old
> dictionary of terms I once had and that too was a very
> long time ago.
>
> Marcus.
>
> __________________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 10:12:36 EDT
Status: RO


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I would also like to see the color picture of this portrait.

Danielle, would you please post the info on the Portraits of the Medici book?

Thanks,

Nancy

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I would also like to see the color picture of this portrait.<BR>
<BR>
Danielle, would you please post the info on the Portraits of the Medici book?<BR>
<BR>
Thanks,<BR>
<BR>
Nancy</FONT></HTML>

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From: "Betsy Marshall" <betsy@softwareinnovation.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Mostly OT: I'm so excited, I'll be an 'aunt'/godmother!
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Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 09:43:06 -0500
Status: RO

you might want to look at the books for "Heirloom sewing"-
 christening gowns and all that?
congrats to you and your friends
Betsy

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of N Kipar
Sent: Sunday, September 22, 2002 7:24 AM
To: H-Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Mostly OT: I'm so excited, I'll be an
'aunt'/godmother!


Dear All,

I just have to share, I am SO excited and happy that I keep bouncing about
like
a rubber ball, although I should sit down quietly and finish that blasted
part
draft for the PhD that my supervisor wants to see tomorrow morning, but...

My very very best friend phoned and told me that she is pregnant and the
baby
is due in April!!! Now you have to know that Sushi and I have been best
friends
since Uni, since about 1989, and she is 40 now, 7 years older than I am. It
was
always clear that I won't have children and my sister neither, but all my
life
long I so much wanted to become an aunt. We have been talking about this for
all these years, joking and laughing and saying I'll spoil her kiddie rotten
and make lil costumes and be the 'aunt from hell' that every kid loves but
the
parents run away screaming, because kiddo wants to go back to auntie. *just
kidding* I almost lost hope! Her partner is my partner's best friend (we did
a
country-swap, he lives in germany now, I live in England :-) and they aren't
married (yet), but lo and behold, they didn't plan it, but whoops, she got
pregnant and they are very happy about it (hehe, I wonder if they are as
happy
as I am *grins*) and will marry before Christmas, back in Germany. Only the
civic wedding for now, the big church one will come next year, when she
doesn't
look 'like a stranded walrus' anymore (quote my friend), and she asked me to
ber her witness!!! I am so happy I just have to tell everyone!
Costume content: I HAVE NOTHING TO WEAR FOR THE WEDDING!!!! AAHHRRGHHH!!!
First of all, I hope everything will be fine and no problem with the
pregnancy,
and secondly, where do I find good patterns for baby clothes and what
fabrics
should I use, I always joked that I'll make extraordinary looking baby
clothes
for her kiddie.
I would LOVE to make a mini-costume, some of you I know have made one,
Margo?
Was that you? And the Cynthia twin costumes were just a scream, but I know
NOTHING at all whatsoever about babies and sizes and anything, could someone
point me to somewhere? I want to take time off and actually be there next
April, and would love to give her a mini-costume as birth present (it has to
be
something uni-sex as long as we don't know what it will be) and the baby
blanket I always promised her for the last 12 years: purple wool with gold
stars.

Nicole - praying everything will go well and who will be the proudest aunt
on
this planet ;-))))

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
Baroque Living History Society 1660-1715
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: marquis@kipar.org

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Sep 22 10:57:25 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Pregnancy in period
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Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 10:53:19 -0400
Status: RO

Well, I suppose it all depends.

My grandfather was the youngest of nine children, all born about three
years apart.  If you figure his mother probably breast-fed for two years,
then that would have spaced her kids three years apart naturally, until
such time as she hit menopause.  Same with my husband's family -- he's the
fifth of eight kids.

Many other families in my family tree, however, seem to have had about
three or four children per family; maybe they had fertility problems, maybe
that was due to travel or other constraints, maybe they just abstained.  No
way to tell.

I suspect that some women (like my great-grandmother) _were_ either
constantly pregnant or breast-feeding, others weren't, and as usual, a
sweeping statement either way is just too black and white to capture the
subtleties of the truth.

-- Mara

At 05:35 PM 9/20/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>So, my question is:  Are there any real, hard statistics to uphold the idea
>that women were constantly pregnant, or could this be one of those
>frequently repeated myths about the middle ages on the order of the lord's
>right to the bride's first night?
>
>Regina Romsey

Kevin + Mara Riley

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Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 10:05:21 -0500
Status: RO

If this is Fashion Fabrics, I think I have a piece.  Its blouse weight I
would say.  A little light for dress unless you line it.  Could also work
for a veil or shawl.

Genie

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Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 11:28:21 -0400
Status: RO

At 04:38 PM 9/21/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>Some people (men and women both) are not very fertile. Even today, fertility
>specialists don't know what to do about most kinds of male infertility.
>There have always been people who are otherwise healthy and who, for no
>known reason, have only one or two children. The fact that a woman in the
>past had few children doesn't NECESSARILY mean that she did anything to keep
>it that way.

And there are reasons like travel, illness, etc.  

A friend of mine has a genetic abnormality that prevents her from absorbing
folic acid properly... and her husband has a major vein of some kind
running through the areas vital to reproduction, which heats things up too
much.  So they haven't succeeded in having kids yet, despite wanting them.
And another friend of mine has, say, one or two cycles a year... 

(snip)
>Which still doesn't explain the relative scarcity of maternity clothes.
>Maybe, like today's maternity clothes, they got passed around until they
>fell apart? 
>
>Gail Finke

Well, the point I was trying to make eariler was that women really don't
show _that_ much in the early part of pregnancy, and with full skirts it
might be possible to wear one's normal clothing through much of the
pregnancy.  It's only in the last few months that a change would most
likely have been necessary - and even then, you can find loose wrappers,
sack-backed jackets (for 18th c.), open robes, etc. that would accomodate a
changing figure but also could be worn afterward. The folk song 'Love, O
Foolish Love' has a line in it where the singer says that once she wore her
apron low; now she ties it high, and her lover won't come near her.  The
implication is that the higher apron is due to her pregnancy.  Maybe the
apron is covering an unlaced or unfastened lower part of her dress, too.

I think our modern fashions that fit tightly below the waist make maternity
clothes much more necessary.  The full skirts of earlier periods would
probably have made a completely separate wardrobe unnecessary, for the most
part.  There's a CDV in Juanita Leisch's book on Civil War fashion that
shows a woman who is probably pregnant; her full skirt appears to be
hanging over a very full belly.  The bodice doesn't appear to be altered at
all, but since that was a relatively high-waisted period, the gown probably
would work just fine until possibly the last month or two of her pregnancy.

Cheers,
Mara
Kevin + Mara Riley

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From: Jonna Hayden <jonna_hayden@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help locating a portrait
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Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 09:48:38 -0700 (PDT)
Status: RO

I'm happy to share the one I have with any who ask--just
email me and I send it on  It's not huge, but it is color!

Jonna

--- Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@attbi.com> wrote:
> Ah, one of my favorites.  As far as I can tell, there are
> no on-line copies 
> of this portrait.  I have searched every possible thing I
> could think of to 
> try and no luck.  If you do find one, please share!
> 
> IIRC, there is a larger black and white copy of the
> picture in "The 
> Portraits of the Medici" books.
> 
> Cheers,
> Danielle
> 
> At 09:16 PM 9/20/2002 -0500, you wrote:
> >Hi,
> >I'm trying to find a copy of Laudonia de Medici, by A.
> Bronzino. I've looked
> >at the web gallery of art, I've done a couple of
> different Google searches,
> >she doesn't seem to be anywhere.
> >I'll find time to go to the library, eventually, and
> should find it there,
> >but in the meantime, would someone just happen to know
> where I could find an
> >online copy? The only copy of it I have now is in 20,000
> years of fashion,
> >but it's small, and it's black and white.
> >Thanks!
> >Audrey
> 
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Subject: [h-cost] Various types of 1875 evening gowns
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Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 13:01:38 -0400
Status: RO

Hi Melanie

I've received many responses to my original post about 1875 gowns & I'm
still sorting through all of the wonderful information in them.  Your one
question did make me stop & think - I'm not sure what the difference for
each type of evening gown (dinner, opera or ball) would be - could you tell
me?

I'm planning to wear the gown I'm going to make to a costume ball that will
be held at a friend's house ( which just happens to be an 1870's Italianate
Villa complete with Ballroom!) From what I've heard it will be a very
elegant evening.  PLUS I live in an 1875 Second Empire house in a thoroughly
Victorian town in Ontario, Canada AND I love costume & figure that whatever
I make should be as authentic as possible (up until now I've been more
involved in 18th century- which is why I'm not so up on Victorian).

At any rate, I figured that it would be great to have something to wear that
really reflects the period as closely as possible since I figure I will have
future use for it.

Thanks again

Elizabeth

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Melanie Wilson
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2002 2:24 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1875 evening gown


>I'm in the beginning stages of planning an 1873-5 (ish) evening gown.

There is a reasonable change over that time, I only really do England so I'm
not sure it applies to the US too, but for what it is worth...

1873 are fuller in the front with apron style fronts and lots of puffs
towards the back, they are generally more merrange like, as you progress
through those years the front has less emphasis and you more from being
towards the centre of a circle to the front of an elipse. The decoration
move towards the back, hips start of be more defined, bodices start to get
longer & you get more princess line gowns. But it is fairly gradual

 >whether the gowns were several separate pieces or
not, it seems obvious in daywear but not so with the evening styles.  I know
that they are made up of a bodice/underskirt/overskirt but are they all
attached to each other?

Earlier ones are more inclined to be seperate

>How is the bodice closed, I'm assuming it is laced up the back.

Various ways & generally very complex ones at that. On a practical level you
might not want to go as complicated as the real thing if you ever anticipate
have to get out of it alone !

I have evening wear that is front opening, back buttons, back clips and side
opening. By evening gown do you mean dinner wear, opera wear, ball gown as
the style would differ somewhat.

>I've also been researching the underclothes & have found a list which
includes chemise, camisole & vest.  Aren't these 3 things roughly the same
at this point?

Most vests I have are knitted warm things I'd not wear in the evening :)

Underwear definatly go for the genuine split drawers !

I like combinations but I don't have any problem with excess bulk from
seperates, but then I'm bulky all round ;)

Don't start making your gown until you have you foundation sorted , ie
bustle & corset as it alters you body shape loads !

Hope this helps

Oh there are some pics of our recreations on www.castlefalkenstein.co.uk

Mel


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Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 13:16:48 -0400
Status: RO



Nicole:

Congratulations! If someone had been that happy for me (outside my family, I
mean) I would have been ecstatic!

I never sewed for my children when they were babies, I was so busy that they
grew too fast. I don't know if pattern sizes are like ready-to-wear sizes,
but ready-to-wear baby sizes are a joke, at least in the USA. Buy LOTS
bigger than they say.

I did sew a christening gown once, it was the relatively plain one still
sold by Vogue (no tucks or lace insertion or anything). It looks great --
all the cousins in the family have used it -- but it was the hardest thing I
ever made. The instructions were terrible.

Gail Finke

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From: "Helen  Partner" <mail@helandbel.fsnet.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: child spacing - please read
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Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 18:46:40 +0100
Status: RO

I'm very saddened to see a distinct lack of sensitivity by certain members
on this discussion forum...I'm not going to prolong this argument..other
than to express my incredulity.

I had written this..
 >you'll see it's a far more complex issue than> this and not so easy to
achieve, even for healthy women!

Melanie wrote this in reply:
Most healthy women I know have problems not concieving, rather than the
> other way around.

I wrote this:
I personally have> an issue with (as do others) the term "infertile",
too..having had fertility
> problems for years.

Melanie wrote this:
I don't need to know anything about the sympto-thermo method, I just know
> when I am fertile...I can also tell the moment of> conception, much to
most chaps puzzlement.

  I wrote this:
Anyway, the issue is this..many pregnancies did not> go to term, ending in
miscarriage, many pregnancies ended in> stillbirth..these  go unrecorded on
the vast majority family trees.

Melanie wrote this:
Yes of couse, but we are forgetting miscarriage is a natural thing and often
> happens because it should. Animals spontaniously abort too.

I now write this, to the above..miscarriage is not always a natural
thing..it doesn't always happen because of foetal abnormality, whether
chromosomal or genetic.  The term spontaneous abortion whilst being accurate
for animals, is frankly offensive when applied to women and the Royal
College of Gynaes and Obs + College of Midwives stated that it should not be
used.  Those who've miscarried hate being told "it's natures' way..blah blah
blah"  Could say more..can't be bothered!

Anyway, I don't want to find myself in the position of being accused of
flaming, neither do I want to maintain this off-topic discussion.  I could
have replied off-line, but I wanted my feelings to be known..please, please,
try to treat certain matters with a degree of sensitivity.  This has upset
my entire family's Sunday!  Since I joined H-Costume, I've become more and
more wary of posting...some people really go for the jugular, some are very
heavy handed with their opinions and (academic) argument... it's annoying,
frustrating and upsetting/distressing. One gets to the point where one
feels.."but I didn't say that at all!" or.."I could counter this with my
evidence, but why bother?"  It's a shame..and I *know* I'm not the only one
who feels like this! However, the vast majority are very, very lovely
people.  That aside, I'm going to un-subscribe for a while cos it's causing
too much stress, believe it or not!

Regards

Helen



----- Original Message -----
From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: 22 September 2002 07:41
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: child spacing (long)


> >I don't want to patronise, but this is a real generalisation.
>
> I imagine that is why Gail used the term MOST becauseshe recognises it as
a
> generlisation, certainly that is how I read it.
>
>>
> >
> >>
> Whatever it is called fertility problems in human appear to be on the
> increase, in England this has led to some reports which have caused
concern.
>
> >I think it may be easier for some women today, to avoid sex as a whole.
> However, I think it presupposes that a great many women today even
> understand how their bodies work and how to tell whether they're "fertile"
> or not!!
>
> > Honestly, believe me, I thought I was really knowledgeable before
> I got my hands on a certain "life-changing" book, which is an accepted
> "fertility awareness bible"..boy, was I wrong!  Anyway, to the crux of
> it..even if a woman in the past had a great knowledge of a) the
> sympto-thermal method
>
> I don't need to know anything about the sympto-thermo method, I just know
> when I am fertile.
> Most animals are aware subconciously of the need to mate at the correct
> time, this need has been honed by evolution as those who ran off from
males
> at the correct time failed to pass on their genes :) Whilst I recognise
many
> people these days seem totally oblivious to their natural rhythems, I can
> assure you it is perfectly possible and I think more likely to be
something
> one had a greater awarness of in the past. I can also tell the moment of
> conception, much to most chaps puzzlement.
>
>
> >and b) her own body, how easy was it for her to tell
> her husband he couldn't have sex and to prevent it from happening? I think
I
> know the answer to *that* one!
>
> Now that is a huge generlisation, it makes every man of the past to be a
sex
> salivating raping monster !! As there is plenty of evidence for men
holding
> off from sex and pregnancy from young brides (13th C England),
contraception
> condom type devices (many cultures and times), instructions on withdrawl,
> sex without intercourse. Days and times when men must not touch (sexually)
> women, it is clear that prevention of pregancy in many cultures was
> recognised and practiced by both sexs and that often the male had a part
in
> that care. There are many instances where men of the past show great
> tenderness and respect for their wives, so I feel this is massivly unfair.
>
> >Anyway, I think one very big/significant issue is being overlooked here,
in
> the discussion of whether or not, women had a pregnancy every year.  It is
> entirely possible that many women were pregnant every year, look at Queen
> Anne...19 pregnancies!
>
> Average spacing of childbirth over many cultures would appear to be
> generally thus
>
> 2 years agrarian
> 4 years hunter gatherer
>
> Those with titles cannot be considered the norm , as generally there are
> increased pressures to give birth more frequently & greater oppertunities
> for farming kids out to wet nurses etc. But the women I know with large
> families say 10 plus living, do not seem to resent the fact at all or look
> any less healthy than any other woman of their age, these are almost
modern,
> but most subject to some dietary lack now being quite old(ie lived in poor
> times or the Wars & rationing)
>
> >.  Anyway, the issue is this..many pregnancies did not
> go to term, ending in miscarriage, many pregnancies ended in
> stillbirth..these  go unrecorded on the vast majority family trees.
>
> Yes of couse, but we are forgetting miscarriage is a natural thing and
often
> happens because it should. Animals spontaniously abort too.
>
>  >Who knows, with  lower levels of maternal nutrition and higher
> incidence of  disease or teratogens, miscarriage may have been more common
> than today.
>
> Or lower. There is always much banded about as to how women were badly fed
> etc in past times. Again this is another HUGE generlisation. In one book I
> saw it suggested all women in Anglo Saxon & medieval times lacked Iron to
> the extent of being deficient. To take a single group example from a
Norfolk
> 8-9th C grraveyard, there are no signs of anemia the women (and men) are
> hugely muscled far more that todays people, their size is comparable to
the
> modern population, and the biggest pathalogical symtom ? Gum diesease.
>
> The evidence in many cases does not support low nutrition. (Victorians are
a
> differant matter)
>
> Child mortality is extremely hard to assess archaeologically. Maternal
death
> in or due to pregnancy ? Well it is a common blame factor, but I've yet to
> see much convincing evidence to back it up. Generally there is a higher
> recorded death in the fertile years amoung females (but often these are
not
> definate female IDs) and there are more females dyeing in old age than
men.
> I need to do a better study on these but there just seems to be more
females
> that men (ie is more died at 20-35) where did all the extra old ladies
come
> from ?
>
> Anyway going back to costume, the lack of survival may simply be because
the
> bigger pregnancy garments were more able to be remodelled into fashionable
> items when completed, in the eras when women worn more fitting styles.
Most
> early styles are pretty much the same for pregnancy & no pregnancy wear, I
> didn't make any special kit (except a slitted undertunic for feeding) for
> most periods (I wore 5th, 13th 15th, 17th and 19th, 20th C kit when
> pregnant) The only one being the 19th. I hate maternity clothes and wore
> adapted or bigger modern kit, chosing styles which accomodated my huge
lumps
> !
>
> I have to confess a certain bafflement a maternity corsets as I can't
> imagine getting my lump into one :) However they wore them from the start
> and against medical advice, the baby generally gowing into completly the
> wrong place (the writings of the time on this are horrible!) and often
died
> as a result. But these maternity corsets were only used in a tiny time
frame
> over all history & all other times & cultures should not be judged by
> Victorian mess ups such as corseting, nutrition and so on.
>
> Mel
> This e-mail, and any attachment, is confidential. If you have received
> it in error, please delete it from your system, do not use or disclose
> the information in any way, and notify me immediately. The contents of
> this message may contain personal views which are not the views of the
> Company, unless specifically stated.
>
>
>
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>



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Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 13:43:54 EDT
Status: RO


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In a message dated 9/22/2002 7:25:59 AM Central Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> >you'll see it's a far more complex issue than
> this and not so easy to achieve, even for healthy women!
> 
> Most healthy women I know have problems not concieving, rather than the
> other way around.

The top quote is right.  It can be hard for healthy women to concieve.  I am 
on an infertility list, I have SI or secandary infertility.  There are lots 
of us on there, most actually, that are very healthy and really the only 
thing "unhealthy" about us is that we can't concieve.  
My Mom comes from a family of 10 and my Dad 5.  They both were farm families. 
 I think they all liked kids but it was seen as a plus to have the extra 
built in farm hands.  In our family tree there are lots of families with lots 
of kids.  I know of one family, my greatgrandpa had lots of kids.  Part of 
his reason was he had a few wifes,  when his wife died he always remarried.  
There also was one divorce I believe.  Anyway each wife seemed to be a little 
bit younger and of course her first marriage.  The wife would want her own 
kids even though they would have his kids from the other marriages.  I 
believe he was married 4 times and all but one wife couldn't have kids.  I 
know they tried but it never happened.  My point is that sometimes there 
could be mulitply wives involved.  I am not talking about Mormanism but when 
a spouse dies and he remarries. 
By the way I love coming from a big family and like lots of kids myself.
Kelly
m311@aol.com

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 9/22/2002 7:25:59 AM Central Daylight Time, h-costume-request@indra.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">&gt;you'll see it's a far more complex issue than<BR>
this and not so easy to achieve, even for healthy women!<BR>
<BR>
Most healthy women I know have problems not concieving, rather than the<BR>
other way around.</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
The top quote is right.&nbsp; It can be hard for healthy women to concieve.&nbsp; I am on an infertility list, I have SI or secandary infertility.&nbsp; There are lots of us on there, most actually, that are very healthy and really the only thing "unhealthy" about us is that we can't concieve.&nbsp; <BR>
My Mom comes from a family of 10 and my Dad 5.&nbsp; They both were farm families.&nbsp; I think they all liked kids but it was seen as a plus to have the extra built in farm hands.&nbsp; In our family tree there are lots of families with lots of kids.&nbsp; I know of one family, my greatgrandpa had lots of kids.&nbsp; Part of his reason was he had a few wifes,&nbsp; when his wife died he always remarried.&nbsp; There also was one divorce I believe.&nbsp; Anyway each wife seemed to be a little bit younger and of course her first marriage.&nbsp; The wife would want her own kids even though they would have his kids from the other marriages.&nbsp; I believe he was married 4 times and all but one wife couldn't have kids.&nbsp; I know they tried but it never happened.&nbsp; My point is that sometimes there could be mulitply wives involved.&nbsp; I am not talking about Mormanism but when a spouse dies and he remarries. <BR>
By the way I love coming from a big family and like lots of kids myself.<BR>
Kelly<BR>
m311@aol.com</FONT></HTML>

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