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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century dress supports
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Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 13:40:37 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

What a great resource, that's lovely Bjarne!

Nicole

 --- Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote: > I wished i had
more time to draw better, but i have so much work to do right
> now. But i hope it can be someone a little help.
> If some of you sees other examples of paniers or whatever, dress support for
> 18th century, please let me know, so that i can add all there is.
> 
> Many greetings
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/dress_supports_in_18th.htm
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Nov  1 09:07:46 2002
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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cross cloths
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Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 09:07:28 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

I read somewhere that this headwear was called a "cross cloth" because it
was folded into a triangle (on the cross) and tied around the head.

Unfortunately, I can't recall where I read that.

Drea


On Thu, 31 Oct 2002, leigh tartaglio wrote:

> Hi. That seems to nail it down pretty well. I guess then neckcloth is the proper term for the linen item. I would be curious to know how it crosses the head, if in fact that is the meaning.  Thanks, Mike T.
>
>
> > also from Moryson in 1617 "Many weare such cross-clothes or forehead clothes as our women use when they are sicke." So it does seem to be headgear and not neckwear, though its exact function is unclear.
> >
>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Nov  1 09:35:49 2002
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From: Brenda Bell <webwarren@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late Colonial-Early Federal U.S. Costume
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Date: Fri, 01 Nov 2002 09:35:32 -0500
Status: RO

Cynthia Abel wrote:

>For Devotees of 18th-early 19thc costume, you may want to spring(or ask
>Santa) for "What Clothes Reveal: the Language of Clothing in Colonial and
>Federal America" by Linda Baumgarten. This is the companion book to an
>exhibition at Williamsburg Decorative Arts Museum.

Hmmmm..... any idea of the dates of the exhibition?

>...all the mostly color pictures are simply yummy and it was well worth
>the $65 odd with 30% off via Amazon since a visit to Colonial Williamsburg
>isn't in the personal budget.

I'm usually down in Virginia Beach over Thanksgiving weekend and over 
Christmas week. Thanksgiving is a bit short for us, but if it's still going 
on over Christmas, maybe I can convince the Other Half to take us for the 
hour-plus drive each way...

Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Nov  1 10:14:04 2002
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Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 15:13:58 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Where are they? there must be digital photos available by now *G* Show us your
Halloween costumes! I am sooooooooooo curious. Mine are here:

http://www.kipar.org/dress-diary/prospect-row.jpg

The white bearded one with the Viking helmet on the bottom left corner 
is Colin; the completely mad totally chainmail-clad Crusader with the 
full face helmet is - who other than - Ben. The superbly done Werewolf 
(he made it all himself with latex and built the mask onto his face) is 
our neighbour Mark; his wife came as a pupil of Hogwarth and her beer 
and hand is seen on the right corner. I guess you can find me in the 
pic.

http://www.kipar.org/dress-diary/quite-dead.jpg

Close-up of moi.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Date: Fri, 01 Nov 2002 10:14:23 -0700
Status: RO

I took an umbrella with me to England/Ireland this past summer, but it
was in my "checked" luggage, along with a few other potentially pointy
things like my embroidery scissors.  It was also one of the small,
folding kind.  I didn't have any problems at all with that, or my
needles for on-board sewing.  When I was checking (pre-vacation) with
the airlines and travel agent, I found out that some of this stuff
depends on the particular airline/airport/security dude.  So you might
ask the pertinent folk in your case as well.
--sue, who thinks Puerto Rico sounds mighty fine about now....we've got
record cold temps this week--3 degrees above 0 this a.m. (that's
farenheit...about 30 degrees below freezing.  Not at all sure of what
the appropriate metric number would be, but d@mn! it's cold out!)

Jen wrote:
> 
> No, not like Mary Poppins. :-)
> 
> I just spent the last two weeks in San Juan, Puerto Rico on a business trip and am
> looking at spending another couple weeks there again before February.  Walking
> around, I saw a fair number of women walking around with umbrellas or parasols as
> protection against the sun.  It occurred to me that I might bring one of mine
> along on my return trip, but I have no idea if such a thing is allowed on
> airplanes these days.  (I don't have one that's small enough to fit in a suitcase,
> so would have to bring it along as a carry-on.)  Does anyone have any experience
> travelling with a parasol?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> --jen
> 
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Nov  1 13:30:58 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late Colonial-Early Federal U.S. Costume
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Date: Fri, 01 Nov 2002 13:27:22 -0500
Status: RO

At 09:35 AM 11/1/02 -0500, you wrote:



>I'm usually down in Virginia Beach over Thanksgiving weekend and over 
>Christmas week. Thanksgiving is a bit short for us, but if it's still 
>going on over Christmas, maybe I can convince the Other Half to take us 
>for the hour-plus drive each way...
>
>Brenda
>webwarren@earthlink.net

      The exhibit is at the Dewitt Wallace Gallery, and while I do not know 
the end date, I am sure that it will still be up around Christmas.  The 
exhibits there are usually on display for over a year, and it just recently 
opened.

Cheers,

Ron Carnegie
r.carnegie@verizon.net
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From: AnnBWass@aol.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late Colonial-Early Federal U.S. Costume
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Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 13:30:57 EST
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In a message dated 11/1/2002 9:36:50 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
webwarren@earthlink.net writes:


> I'm usually down in Virginia Beach over Thanksgiving weekend and over 
> Christmas week. Thanksgiving is a bit short for us, but if it's still going 
> 
> on over Christmas, maybe I can convince the Other Half to take us for the 
> hour-plus drive each way...
> 
> 

I believe it is up for a year, and just opened, so it will be up this 
Christmas.  You can always check their website--www.history.org.
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 11/1/2002 9:36:50 AM Eastern Standard Time, webwarren@earthlink.net writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I'm usually down in Virginia Beach over Thanksgiving weekend and over <BR>
Christmas week. Thanksgiving is a bit short for us, but if it's still going <BR>
on over Christmas, maybe I can convince the Other Half to take us for the <BR>
hour-plus drive each way...<BR>
<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
I believe it is up for a year, and just opened, so it will be up this Christmas.&nbsp; You can always check their website--www.history.org.<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Halloween costume photos?
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Date: Fri, 01 Nov 2002 11:33:07 -0800
Status: RO



I made a Spiroc, the parrot creatures my husband hunts in his online game, 
Everquest.  Just click the link in my signature line to see the full diary.

Jennifer Sena
Distant Designs
http://home.teleport.com/~cedric/distdesi/spiroc.html

I wont hurt you, I just want to dress you up!!





>Where are they? there must be digital photos available by now *G* Show us 
>your
>Halloween costumes! I am sooooooooooo curious

_________________________________________________________________
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From: Brenda Bell <webwarren@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late Colonial-Early Federal U.S. Costume
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Date: Fri, 01 Nov 2002 14:40:27 -0500
Status: RO

Ann amplified Ron's reply to me:

>I believe it is up for a year, and just opened, so it will be up this
>Christmas.  You can always check their website--www.history.org.

Thanks! The exhibit will be up through 16 February, 2004 -- and waiting 
until Christmas will give us a chance to see the upcoming Jewelry exhibit 
as well!

>Jewelry: The Colonial Williamsburg Collection (December 21, 2002 - 
>ongoing) highlighting selected pieces from the museum's collection 
>including rings, necklaces and earrings made from gold or silver, some set 
>with precious stones.

More info can be found at 
http://www.history.org/visit/sp_events/exhibition.cfm#dewitt

Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Nov  1 15:38:01 2002
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Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 21:39:11 +0100
Status: RO

Hi Nicole.
This is great! I didnt know you were making Holloween in England. You look
great.
That monkey is scary!. I think i would have died if i meat him along the
lake here, by night.
Here in Denmark, we never have that sort of thing. Only children used to
dress up in February for the "Fastelavn" an old habit from catolic times
where people starved themselves for a coupple of days. They still do, but
not as much as when i was a child.
We used to go arround to trick and treet for small money,
I loved to dress up. My favourite disguise was when i dressed like a wicked
witch.
Well boring Denmark................

Bjarne
Bjarne
----- Original Message -----
From: "N Kipar" <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, November 01, 2002 4:13 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Halloween costume photos?


> Where are they? there must be digital photos available by now *G* Show us
your
> Halloween costumes! I am sooooooooooo curious. Mine are here:
>
> http://www.kipar.org/dress-diary/prospect-row.jpg
>
> The white bearded one with the Viking helmet on the bottom left corner
> is Colin; the completely mad totally chainmail-clad Crusader with the
> full face helmet is - who other than - Ben. The superbly done Werewolf
> (he made it all himself with latex and built the mask onto his face) is
> our neighbour Mark; his wife came as a pupil of Hogwarth and her beer
> and hand is seen on the right corner. I guess you can find me in the
> pic.
>
> http://www.kipar.org/dress-diary/quite-dead.jpg
>
> Close-up of moi.
>
> Nicole
>
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: nicole@kipar.org
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Everything you'll ever need on one web page
> from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
> http://uk.my.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Mans shirt 1723
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Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 23:31:57 +0100
Status: RO

Hello again.
It is so quiet here these days, usually i get much more emails from
h-costume, but i guess you have all ben buisy with the hollidays.
Today i found a picture of the composer Vivaldi from 1723. It shows him in a
shirt. The collar of the shirt has 2 buttonholes in each side and there is a
drawstring to close the collar with.
Was this the ordinary way to close a shirt?
Was buttons more rare?

Bjarne


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Date: Fri, 01 Nov 2002 22:20:05 -0800
Status: RO


>--sue, who thinks Puerto Rico sounds mighty fine about now....we've got
>record cold temps this week--3 degrees above 0 this a.m. (that's
>farenheit...about 30 degrees below freezing.  Not at all sure of what
>the appropriate metric number would be, but d@mn! it's cold out!)

Where are you?  I have a daughter in New York City in college, and she, a 
native-Californian, is about to discover Winter.  Of course she will need a 
New-York-Winter costume, as opposed to the San-Francisco-'Winter' costume 
she's been used to all her life.  She actually grew up in San Jose, 50 
miles south of San Francisco, where the weather is much milder than it is 
in San Francisco.


Kayta

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Subject: [h-cost] Forehead cloth/cross clothes
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Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2002 08:02:30 +0000
Status: RO


http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/index1.html

look at the painting of Bridgette Holmes by John Riley. She was famous for 
being 90 years old. She appears to be wearing a forehead cloth.A nice 
example of someone wearing clothes from when they were younger.

Jan Steen 'celebrating the birth' shows a woman who has just delivered 
wearing a forehead cloth and in the same painting there is a woman who 
appears to be pregnant wearing a forehead cloth under a linen chaperone(I 
think that's what it's called)

I have a little web gallery of paintings showing forehead cloths, but I 
can't work out how to put it on line. I'll get my partner to do it.

The three examples of forehead cloths I have examined dating from early to 
late 17th century are made from squares of linen folded in half to make a 
triangle with tape sewn at either end of the front. Two were plain and one 
had  tiny embroidered picots work along the forehead edge.
On the embroidered cloth the weft count was approx 120 to the inch (between 
115- 122 because of the slubs in the threads)I could only see the sewing 
stitches with my linen checker, there were over 30 to the inch and the 
sewing thread appeared to be roughly half as thick as the fabric threads. I 
asked someone with 20/20 vision to see if they could see the stitches with 
the naked eye. They couldn't, this kind of work may have been sewn by feel.

In 'The Baby in the Bush' Anne Buck, a foundling baby, late 17th is 
described as having a cross cloth pinned over the face.

I wear my forehead cloth with the long striaght edge just below my hair 
line, tied at the back of the neck the cloth covering my ears this keeps my 
ears warm and cosy. My coif then goes over the top. The added bonus is that 
I don't get coif slippage. When cooking over an open fire the cloth prevents 
sweat running into my eyes. The folded edge fits neatly on the forehead 
because it's on the bias.

Few forehead cloths are seen in pictures, so far I've noticed babies wearing 
them,(to protect the fontanelle I've heard) pregnant and nursing mothers, a 
servant and women who are in bed ill. My feeling is that they are very much 
a utility item, and possibly only worn at home perhaps some kind of early 
modern sweatband?

I've been working on a set of C17th baby cloths for a few months now  and 
hope to get the pictures comleted soon. The clothes are copies of items from 
Bath Museum of Costume.

regards
Joy




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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Forehead cloth/cross clothes
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Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 10:04:51 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Actually, I think there is a mix-up in understanding of forehead cloths. What
bridget Holmes is wearing 
http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/r/riley/holmes.jpg
is not what reconvalescent/ill/lying-in women are wearing. I thought so too at
first but then I discovered that there are differences.
Look at the difference, here an old woman in 1660-65:
http://arts-humanities.cant.ac.uk/temp/focus/1660-65_OLDWOMAN_DOU.JPG
she is wearing what Bridget Holmes is wearing, and here another in the 1660s:
http://arts-humanities.cant.ac.uk/temp/focus/NIDDY-NODDY_DOU.JPG
Here a sick woman in 1660-70:
http://arts-humanities.cant.ac.uk/temp/focus/1660-70_ANAEMIC-LADY_HOOGSTRAATEN.JPG
and another
http://arts-humanities.cant.ac.uk/temp/focus/1660-67_VISIT_METSU.JPG

I do think that there is a difference, and it strikes me that the sick always
wear the very tight forehead cloth with something loose over it, as if it were
an addition, while the old women are wearing a cloth tied over their normal
'clip-on coif' (as i call the wired ones) to do exactly what Joy described, to
protect and be useful. 
That's my tupennce and a half after studying the period 1660-1715 for years.

Nicole

 --- Joy Shillaker <joyshillaker@hotmail.com> wrote: > 
> http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/index1.html
> 
> look at the painting of Bridgette Holmes by John Riley. She was famous for 
> being 90 years old. She appears to be wearing a forehead cloth.A nice 
> example of someone wearing clothes from when they were younger.
> 
> Jan Steen 'celebrating the birth' shows a woman who has just delivered 
> wearing a forehead cloth and in the same painting there is a woman who 
> appears to be pregnant wearing a forehead cloth under a linen chaperone(I 
> think that's what it's called)
> 
> I have a little web gallery of paintings showing forehead cloths, but I 
> can't work out how to put it on line. I'll get my partner to do it.
> 
> The three examples of forehead cloths I have examined dating from early to 
> late 17th century are made from squares of linen folded in half to make a 
> triangle with tape sewn at either end of the front. Two were plain and one 
> had  tiny embroidered picots work along the forehead edge.
> On the embroidered cloth the weft count was approx 120 to the inch (between 
> 115- 122 because of the slubs in the threads)I could only see the sewing 
> stitches with my linen checker, there were over 30 to the inch and the 
> sewing thread appeared to be roughly half as thick as the fabric threads. I 
> asked someone with 20/20 vision to see if they could see the stitches with 
> the naked eye. They couldn't, this kind of work may have been sewn by feel.
> 
> In 'The Baby in the Bush' Anne Buck, a foundling baby, late 17th is 
> described as having a cross cloth pinned over the face.
> 
> I wear my forehead cloth with the long striaght edge just below my hair 
> line, tied at the back of the neck the cloth covering my ears this keeps my 
> ears warm and cosy. My coif then goes over the top. The added bonus is that 
> I don't get coif slippage. When cooking over an open fire the cloth prevents 
> sweat running into my eyes. The folded edge fits neatly on the forehead 
> because it's on the bias.
> 
> Few forehead cloths are seen in pictures, so far I've noticed babies wearing 
> them,(to protect the fontanelle I've heard) pregnant and nursing mothers, a 
> servant and women who are in bed ill. My feeling is that they are very much 
> a utility item, and possibly only worn at home perhaps some kind of early 
> modern sweatband?
> 
> I've been working on a set of C17th baby cloths for a few months now  and 
> hope to get the pictures comleted soon. The clothes are copies of items from 
> Bath Museum of Costume.
> 
> regards
> Joy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get a speedy connection with MSN Broadband.  Join now! 
> http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/freeactivation.asp
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=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2002 02:09:17 -0800
Status: RO

Welllll...  I've only got two pictures of mine.  Not very good quality, 
staging, etc, because they were taken at the costume shop where I work in 
between classes.  (Though "slave" would be more appropriate, I think.)

Disclaimer!
I didn't sew anything on this costume.  I assembled it from bits I had 
already, except for the feather, which I bought specifically for the 
purpose.
There is absolutely no historical basis for this costume - but everyone 
calls it the "Goth Moulin Rouge" costume.

Ingredients:
1 pr fishnet pantyhose, 1 pr black thigh-hi stockings
1 heavily modified Fredericks of Hollywood corset w/garter clips
1 lace shirt
1 pair of boots
1 black gauze 3-tier skirt
(and a compact full of white goth-foundation, and some black eyeliner and 
lipstick)

Got a good mental image worked up?  Good. :)  Now go here:
http://people.ucsc.edu/~kalessia/laurasasscrop.jpg
(please note that it's supposed to say "Laura - sassy" but somehow the name 
got changed.  Oh - and the hat/mask is the costume mistress'.  She lent it 
to me because "it matches!")

http://people.ucsc.edu/~kalessia/laurawthebear.jpg

Enjoy!
-Laura the geek
(now if I could only look that good at Dickens Fair...)

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Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2002 08:23:32 -0500
Status: RO

HAPPY DANCE!!!!!!!

My luftwaffe buddy has family in Munich that he is visiting in a 
couple weeks and he is going to go look for the book for me as a 
christmas present !!!!!!!!!!!!

*poing*   *poing*   *poing*

margali
who has to settle down to finish pearling a veil for Tara's 
wedding in 2 weeks;-( but would rather be fondling the book.

Deredere & Owen Iskander wrote:

> It is in German, but someone translated some of it.
> 
> "Textile Treasures from Renaissance and Baroque"
> at the 'Bayerisches Nationalmuseum' until February 16th, 2003, from
> Tuesdays to Sundays 10 - 17, Thursdays 10 - 20. Mondays closed

> There is also a wounderfull publication for the exhibiton. The fotos are
> well done, you can see the colors and details better than in the dark
> exhibition room! It costs EUR 25,00.
> (I'll try to get more information aboud this book)



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Subject: [h-cost] winter hand covers
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Our 1790s house "on the frontier" has queried what women might use for =
warmth of their hands, particularly on the street, The population is =
diverse. Were gloves, mittens or even muffs in common use?               =
                                      Kathleen                     =20

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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Our 1790s house "on the frontier" has queried what =
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Nov  2 08:47:38 2002
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <3DC1055F.20701@kabelfoon.nl> <3DC3D1D4.3080900@99main.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Exebition 16th-17th century clothing Munchen(Germany)
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Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 14:49:57 +0100
Status: RO

Hi.
I went and looked at some pictures from the exhibition. That bodice is very
interresting. There are very few garments left from this time. I must have
their catalog, cause i cant go.
Can you buy their catalog from the museum shop?

Bjarne


----- Original Message -----
From: "Marilyn Traber" <margali@99main.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 02, 2002 2:23 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Exebition 16th-17th century clothing Munchen(Germany)


> HAPPY DANCE!!!!!!!
>
> My luftwaffe buddy has family in Munich that he is visiting in a
> couple weeks and he is going to go look for the book for me as a
> christmas present !!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> *poing*   *poing*   *poing*
>
> margali
> who has to settle down to finish pearling a veil for Tara's
> wedding in 2 weeks;-( but would rather be fondling the book.
>
> Deredere & Owen Iskander wrote:
>
> > It is in German, but someone translated some of it.
> >
> > "Textile Treasures from Renaissance and Baroque"
> > at the 'Bayerisches Nationalmuseum' until February 16th, 2003, from
> > Tuesdays to Sundays 10 - 17, Thursdays 10 - 20. Mondays closed
>
> > There is also a wounderfull publication for the exhibiton. The fotos are
> > well done, you can see the colors and details better than in the dark
> > exhibition room! It costs EUR 25,00.
> > (I'll try to get more information aboud this book)
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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From: "Cynthia Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
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References: <4.3.2.7.0.20021101132444.00afba50@mail.verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late Colonial-Early Federal U.S. Costume
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Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 14:03:48 -0600
Status: RO

The exibit will be open well into 2003 for "What Clothes Reveal."  This is
an excellent book and I stayed up very late with my copy. Even for costume
mavens their is a wealth of information, including fascinating sidebars(some
cover an entire page), debunking costume myths, the creation of such myths,
fabric terms and meanings, and the last: the meaning of a costume curator's
own wear right before a new exibition.  The book covers the whys and
wherefores of why some costumes survive, alterration history, the clothing
of lower classes and slaves(Have you always wondered if the U.S. always ran
a trade deficit?--Yes, it has always been cheaper to import manufactured
goods), and finally alterration of surviving clothing for historic events
and fancy dress in the late 19th to early 20th century.  To me the most
fascinating chapter was "Cradle to Grave" begining with bridal wear and
ending with mourning attire.  Lucky was the pre-safety pin child whose mom
used diapers(history of that term given within the book)made with ties
rather than relying on straight-pin fastening.

Cindy Abel
ILL Coordinator
Health Sciences Library
Creighton University
1912 CALIFORNIA ST
OMAHA NE 68178-0210
VOICE: 402.280.5144
FAX: 402.280.5134
brujne@creighton.edu


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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Gothic Cape/ (was Timely Topic)
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Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 11:25:49 -0800
Status: RO

Linda and Claire,

	I must admit I don't have a picture to hand of a woman wearing her cloak
like this.  However!  I don't have a picture of a woman wearing a coat
(except in the 1600's either :-).  The good thing about the side opening
cloak is that it IS a period solution to the problem of walking and having
your cover fly open and let in the elements.  I suspect we see the central
opening cloaks on women because they are particularly formal items rather
than "useful", but don't hold me to it.
	The other possibility for an early period is of course the Manesse
guardcorps which are seen on both men and women.

	Another dodge that is modern, but would get you the look of a center
opening cape combined with a "coat" that fits fairly closely to the body is
something I bought 20 years ago as ready-to-wear.  it was a cylindrical,
knee length sleeveless "coat" with a 2/3 circle cape attached at the neck
and a bit down the front arm hole opening.  The coat part protected you all
around while the cape part belled out and looked good.  I added a hood with
capelet to add extra warmth/rain protection (at that time I was in
Drachenwald, Knights Crossing and rain was still the problem).  I loved it,
even though the entire outfit made me feel a bit like Little Red Riding Hood
(we weren't far from the country of the Brothers Grimm).

	Whether the hood on the men's cloaks is attached or not is anybody's guess.
I suspect that it is separate in some way because I have problems figuring
out how they would be attached and get that effect.

Regina Romsey

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Claire Clarke
Sent: Friday, November 01, 2002 5:58 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gothic Cape/ (was Timely Topic)




Linda Rice wrote:

> Thanks for the great suggestion and illos, Wanda. I noticed that while
> the cape is buttoned down the right shoulder, the hood arrangement is
> situated correctly on the head. Do you think that the cape and hood are
> separate items, (thus the hoodless cape is simply rotated to open
> off-center) or is this an integral feature of a one-piece garment?
>
> Also, the brasses show this treatment for men's capes. Do you think it's
> appropriate for women's capes as well? The brass of John Lyndewode and
> his wife shows something completely different for her.
>
> Thank you, I appreciate any insight anyone may have.
>

I'm afriad that I can't recall off the top of my head any instance of women
with cloaks or mantles from this period that didn't open at the front. All
the funky openings seem to be reserved for men.
Claire
(which isn't to say that a) I've seen every picture there is, or b) women
didn't
borrow their husbands cloaks sometimes)


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Nov  2 14:34:39 2002
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Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 18:57:33 -0800
Status: RO

At 4:35 PM -0800 10/30/02, MaryAnn Jones wrote:
>when do sweaters appear as outerwear?

According to Bishop Rutt's book on the history of handknitting (AKA 
the historical knitter's bible :), there are very elegant silk 
knitted jackets and shirts beginning in the early to mid 1600s -- 
King Charles I is supposed to have worn such a shirt (called a 
"waistcoat" at the time) to his execution. There's also a group of 
elaborately color-patterned silk jackets, most of which open down the 
front, whose source is a bit uncertain -- possibly Italy (wherever 
they're from, there's a big group of them and they are all fairly 
similar).

However neither of these seems to be an outdoor garment. King 
Charles's "sky blue waistcoat" was clearly worn _under_ several other 
layers, since he is recorded as having taken off outer layers until 
the blue "waistcoat" was revealed. Both this and the silk jackets 
seem to be quite thin, rather on the order of a very lightweight 
woman's cardigan sweater, and since they're silk, they were probably 
not worn in heavy weather or for warmth.

The modern "sweater phenomenon" where virtually everyone wears these 
knitted over-shirts for warmth seems, however, to date only to the 
late 19th or early 20th century, when they suddenly became 
fashionable, especially for golf and other outdoor sports.

(And for anyone who hasn't heard this yet, Interweave Press is 
planning to reprint Rutt's book sometime in 2003 -- excellent news, 
since it's been out of print for about ten years and the prices 
online for used copies have tended to start at $80-$100 and go up 
from there.....)
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mans shirt 1723
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Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 20:09:19 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Bjarne, I studied all my portraits from 1650-1740 and the most usual way to
close a shirt is indeed two buttonholes and a ribbon to close it. Towards the
1720s-30s buttons are coming more into use, still, two buttonholes can be seen
as well still.

Nicole

 --- Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote: > Hello again.
> It is so quiet here these days, usually i get much more emails from
> h-costume, but i guess you have all ben buisy with the hollidays.
> Today i found a picture of the composer Vivaldi from 1723. It shows him in a
> shirt. The collar of the shirt has 2 buttonholes in each side and there is a
> drawstring to close the collar with.
> Was this the ordinary way to close a shirt?
> Was buttons more rare?
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Nov  2 20:34:50 2002
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Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2002 20:31:30 -0500
Status: RO

Not a clue, I am in america and he is in germany....I just saw 
the post about the book onlist and asked him if he would consider 
getting it for me;-)
margali

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hi.
> I went and looked at some pictures from the exhibition. That bodice is very
> interresting. There are very few garments left from this time. I must have
> their catalog, cause i cant go.
> Can you buy their catalog from the museum shop?
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----

>>HAPPY DANCE!!!!!!!
>>
>>My luftwaffe buddy has family in Munich that he is visiting in a
>>couple weeks and he is going to go look for the book for me as a
>>christmas present !!!!!!!!!!!!
>>
>>*poing*   *poing*   *poing*
>>
>>margali



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I have friends in Germany who wrote me about this exhibition.  To make things 
worse one of the curators is even running a workshop on how to reproduce a 
man's doublet (1630).  I wished I could go.  The book is supposed to be 
excellent.  It cost Euros 25.00  and I am fairly sure you can order it either 
from the museum shop or contact the museum directly.  It also is supposed to 
have patterns in it.  I asked my friends when they attend the workshop to 
take good notes and to PLEASE PLEASE share them and get me copies of whatever 
handouts they will get.  I will share once I have them.
Elisabeth

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>I have friends in Germany who wrote me about this exhibition. &nbsp;To make things worse one of the curators is even running a workshop on how to reproduce a man's doublet (1630). &nbsp;I wished I could go. &nbsp;The book is supposed to be excellent. &nbsp;It cost Euros 25.00 &nbsp;and I am fairly sure you can order it either from the museum shop or contact the museum directly. &nbsp;It also is supposed to have patterns in it. &nbsp;I asked my friends when they attend the workshop to take good notes and to PLEASE PLEASE share them and get me copies of whatever handouts they will get. &nbsp;I will share once I have them.
<BR>Elisabeth</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2002 19:19:59 -0800
Status: RO

What is the name of the museum and the exhibit, and what is the title
of the book?

Thanks,

Fran Grimble

BOSTONHAHN@aol.com wrote:

> I have friends in Germany who wrote me about this exhibition.  To
> make things worse one of the curators is even running a workshop on
> how to reproduce a man's doublet (1630).  I wished I could go.  The
> book is supposed to be excellent.  It cost Euros 25.00  and I am
> fairly sure you can order it either from the museum shop or contact
> the museum directly.  It also is supposed to have patterns in it.  I
> asked my friends when they attend the workshop to take good notes
> and to PLEASE PLEASE share them and get me copies of whatever
> handouts they will get.  I will share once I have them.
> Elisabeth

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Nov  2 23:42:57 2002
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Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2002 20:33:05 -0800
Status: RO

I want to find out about the spanish surcoat.  Anyone have any places to 
send me?  not to be indelicate, but what would one wear under it if you 
were wearing it instead of a gown.  also, what time frame would they span? 
thanks



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Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2002 22:26:41 -0700
Status: RO

Hi, Bjarne....No holidays in my parts (Election Day coming up on
Tuesday, but that's not a holiday for me).  Just really busy.  Plus, I
was internet-less for a while--my ISP got hacked, and they had to
"institute security measures" (isn't that a meaningless phrase....<g>). 
They changed all our passwords (yeah, without notifying folks
beforehand), and everyone's without access until their new, individual
passwords get put into the system.  I'm okay as of this evening.
Obligatory Costume Content: Went down to JoAnn's (local and only fabric
place) to buy some polar fleece to make an extra blanket for my bed.
They have this little, tiny island of wool (maybe 12 bolts, total? and
some are pinstripes.....*sigh*).  I got 5 yds of this lovely,
light-weight wool twill that's a very dark red/brown (burgundy? maroon?
but without the "blue" tones--more like a very, very dark brick red). 
It's gonna be an undergown for the 16th c. Flemish wardrobe I'm working
on (which makes it all Drea's fault....;-P)  It's in the washing machine
as I type, getting itself fulled.  I just *love* the expressions on the
salesladies' faces when I mention tossing $10/yd, dry-clean only fabric
into a washing machine, and they're all over themselves, trying to tell
me why that's a *bad* idea, and I'm trying to explain to them that I
*want* the wool to behave like wool! :-)
Now, if I could just find a source for mid-16th c. shoes...the obvious
sources I've got are all either earlier or later....hmmmm......
--sue, hoping you're all having a great weekend!

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> 
> Hello again.
> It is so quiet here these days, usually i get much more emails from
> h-costume, but i guess you have all ben buisy with the hollidays.
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Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2002 22:32:48 -0700
Status: RO

Wow! I'm impressed! And the costume looks good, too! <g>
--sue, who didn't do Halloween this year.....

Kala Jathos wrote:
> 
> Welllll...  I've only got two pictures of mine.  Not very good quality,
> staging, etc, because they were taken at the costume shop where I work in
> between classes.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] spanish surcoat
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Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 01:43:56 -0500
Status: RO

First stop- Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion (the earliest of the time
periods).  At the back are 2 examples of the style (as well as examples of
what to wear under it).

What country are you looking at?  The English wore different underthings
than the Spanish or the Italians.  Time period also changes things (i.e.
Elizabeth I wore a bodice with beaded underskirt and trimmed overskirt with
one in a portrait of her and the 3 goddesses- but earlier periods tended to
be more relaxed).


Lyn Greaves


----- Original Message -----
From: "MaryAnn Jones" <mabse@attbi.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>; <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 02, 2002 11:33 PM
Subject: [h-cost] spanish surcoat


> I want to find out about the spanish surcoat.  Anyone have any places to
> send me?  not to be indelicate, but what would one wear under it if you
> were wearing it instead of a gown.  also, what time frame would they span?
> thanks
>
>
>
> >_________________________________________________________________
> >Get a speedy connection with MSN Broadband.  Join now!
> >http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/freeactivation.asp
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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: forehead cloths
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Date: Sun, 03 Nov 2002 09:56:44 -0500
Status: RO



Let me begin by saying that I don't have the slightest idea of how "forehead
cloths" or "cross cloths" or whatever they're called were actually worn. I
saw instructions somewhere that I can't recall, so I can't vouch for them.

But this is what I do. I have a square of white linen that I fold in half on
the cross, with two strips of flat lacing on the corners. I pull my hair
back (I have bangs, and they are so hard to control) and put this on like a
scarf, with the long fold on the bias covering the upper part of my
forehead. I take the laces OVER my head, about the top of my head, and tie
them back at my neck. Then I wear coifs or other headgear on top.

I tried this once with a specific headdress and now I wear it for almost
anything. It keeps my hair under control!!!! Believe me, that is a first for
me. It rarely moves, and it's a great anchor for pins and other fabric bits.

So there you go, I hope it helps someone else.

Gail Finke

PS: I remember now, this was partly inspired by someone on the list talking
about how muslim women hold their veils on. I looked at a couple of Muslim
veil web sites and saw that they can buy little headpieces that keep the
veils on, and I thought the directions I'd once read (again, I have no idea
where) for a forehead cloth would work the same way.


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Subject: [h-cost] Sale - European Miniatures in the Metropolitan Museum of Art
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Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 11:45:55 -0500
Status: RO

I found this on sale,  while looking for something else, of course.  The
price - under $10!  is so tempting I just had to share.   Does anyone have
this book, or know about it?   I have a very old address book from them with
a lot of miniatures in it, and I treasure that.
Rowena


 By Graham Reynolds, with Katharine Baetjer. A catalogue of the Museum's
collection of European portrait miniatures, dating from the early 16th
century to about 1850.
224 pages, 380 illustrations (60 in color). 9 1/2 in. x 11 1/4 in. Cloth.

Original price $65.00
European Miniatures in the Metropolitan Museum of Art
E0689
Member Price: $8.96 each
Non-Member Price: $9.95 each




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From: kat@grendal.rain.com
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Date: Sun, 03 Nov 2002 08:58:39 -0800
Status: RO


> I want to find out about the spanish surcoat.  Anyone have any places
> to send me?  not to be indelicate, but what would one wear under it if
> you were wearing it instead of a gown.  also, what time frame would
> they span? thanks

The first of these seem to show up on women during the 1540's. 
(Christina of Denmark in the famous Holbein painting, for example.) 
For men they seem to be an outgrowth of the gowns they were wearing 
(such as Henry VII and several other brasses and manuscripts from the 
1480s). They can be found at least through the early 17th Century, 
although they changed in form.

How they were made depends on the time period and place. Some (such 
as the ones in Alcega's pattern book or the Milanese Tailor Book) are 
fairly simple. Some of the later ones, such as those in Janet 
Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620 are more complicated in terms 
of cut and pleating.

As to what was worn under them, in period they were a coat. They 
always had some sort of outfit under them such as a loose gown (A-
line type of thing), dress (with bodice and skirt made as one), 
bodice and skirt (separate pieces, can be plain or fancy such as 
heavily beaded). (By bodice I mean something like a man's doublet as 
the can be seen in many paintings.) The coat was often worn open so 
that the dress can be seen (Boucher's 20,000 Years of Fashion has 
many examples of these coats.) In some of the later periods they 
might be firmly closed down the front to the waist, then expand out 
over the farthingale showing a forepart or skirt beneath. But the 
bodice was seen in the sleeves which are exposed since this type 
often had short puffed sleeves.

Probably the easiest way to wear them (which was also done in period, 
by the way) is to wear an A-line dress underneath. It can be plain or 
fancy. The nice thing about this combination is that it expands for 
pregnancy or when we are overweight or in the process of losing 
weight, and it doesn't require as much fitting as those with  bodices 
(either attached in a dress or separate with a skirt.)

However, if you don't really care if it has all the correct 
underpinings, then you can wear a chemise and skirt underneath, 
making sure that the bodice part of the coat is firmly closed, with 
fake sleeves attached to the coat beneath the short puffed sleeves or 
coming out of the split sleeves. This is sort of a theatrical fake 
but I've seen it a lot. (I personally prefer to do A-lines if I want 
something simple.)

Of course, when you have to run for the bathroom in the middle of the 
night or you get called to court in the middle of packing up your 
encampment, a surcoat is *really* handy just to throw over your 
clothes in a hurry. (But this is an emergency purpose, not for 
regular wear.)


Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Sale - European Miniatures in the Metropolitan Museum of Art
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Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 06:05:02 -0500
Status: RO

Can you remember where you saw this at this price? Please don't tease
the booklovers like this!

Pax,

Linda

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Rowena
Sent: Sunday, November 03, 2002 11:46 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Sale - European Miniatures in the Metropolitan Museum
of Art

I found this on sale,  while looking for something else, of course.  The
price - under $10!  is so tempting I just had to share.   Does anyone
have
this book, or know about it?   I have a very old address book from them
with
a lot of miniatures in it, and I treasure that.
Rowena


 By Graham Reynolds, with Katharine Baetjer. A catalogue of the Museum's
collection of European portrait miniatures, dating from the early 16th
century to about 1850.
224 pages, 380 illustrations (60 in color). 9 1/2 in. x 11 1/4 in.
Cloth.

Original price $65.00
European Miniatures in the Metropolitan Museum of Art
E0689
Member Price: $8.96 each
Non-Member Price: $9.95 each




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sale - European Miniatures in the Metropolitan Museum of Art
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Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 13:47:13 -0500
Status: RO

At the Metropolitan Museum  web site.   metmuseum.org

> Can you remember where you saw this at this price? > 
> Subject: [h-cost] Sale - European Miniatures in the Metropolitan Museum
> of Art
> 
> I found this on sale,  while looking for something else, of course.  The
> price - under $10!  is so tempting I just had to share.   Does anyone
> have
> this book, or know about it?   I have a very old address book from them
> with
> a lot of miniatures in it, and I treasure that.
> Rowena
> 
> 
>  By Graham Reynolds, with Katharine Baetjer. A catalogue of the Museum's
> collection of European portrait miniatures, dating from the early 16th
> century to about 1850.
> 224 pages, 380 illustrations (60 in color). 9 1/2 in. x 11 1/4 in.
> Cloth.
> 
> Original price $65.00
> European Miniatures in the Metropolitan Museum of Art
> E0689
> Member Price: $8.96 each
> Non-Member Price: $9.95 each
 

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Nov  3 14:06:48 2002
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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Gothic Cape/ (was Timely Topic)
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Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 06:28:57 -0500
Status: RO

Wanda and Claire~

Thanks for the responses, I appreciate your thoughts. I agree that an
off-center opening is extremely practical, in fact it's how I arrange
all my earlier period cloaks and wraps. A large rectangle of fabric and
a brooch to fasten it on the shoulder is quick, easy cheap and
versatile, as well as correct for early periods. It's also much warmer
than traditional capes.

Having spent the entire day yesterday outside, where it was mid 40's F
and a stiff NW wind blowing, I can say with certainty that a full
front-opening cloak is neither practical nor warm. ;o>  The 18th c.
trader woman down the road was fairing MUCH better in her ankle length
wool blanket-coat. It looked like a big red wool bathrobe, and she said
she was toasty in it. I was quite envious!

What is your opinion of the pelicon, the giant circle-shaped kind with
no real opening except two slits for the hands to come through when
necessary? It also has a hood which buttons up to close the face as much
as possible. It looks warm, and with no opening to flap around it might
be a useful cold-weather option. Sorry, I don't have a link to an image,
maybe somebody else does?  I was trying to determine if Lady Lyndewode
was wearing such a garment, I can't really tell if her hands are between
the front opening lines or if they are poking through long slits in the
cloak itself. The lines up near the bottom edges of her veil get rather
indeterminate, so it's hard to tell for sure.

And Wanda, I bet you made a charming Little Red Riding Hood! How fun!

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Wanda Pease
Sent: Saturday, November 02, 2002 2:26 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Gothic Cape/ (was Timely Topic)

Linda and Claire,

	I must admit I don't have a picture to hand of a woman wearing
her cloak
like this.  However!  I don't have a picture of a woman wearing a coat
(except in the 1600's either :-).  The good thing about the side opening
cloak is that it IS a period solution to the problem of walking and
having
your cover fly open and let in the elements.  I suspect we see the
central
opening cloaks on women because they are particularly formal items
rather
than "useful", but don't hold me to it.
	The other possibility for an early period is of course the
Manesse
guardcorps which are seen on both men and women.

	Another dodge that is modern, but would get you the look of a
center
opening cape combined with a "coat" that fits fairly closely to the body
is
something I bought 20 years ago as ready-to-wear.  it was a cylindrical,
knee length sleeveless "coat" with a 2/3 circle cape attached at the
neck
and a bit down the front arm hole opening.  The coat part protected you
all
around while the cape part belled out and looked good.  I added a hood
with
capelet to add extra warmth/rain protection (at that time I was in
Drachenwald, Knights Crossing and rain was still the problem).  I loved
it,
even though the entire outfit made me feel a bit like Little Red Riding
Hood
(we weren't far from the country of the Brothers Grimm).

	Whether the hood on the men's cloaks is attached or not is
anybody's guess.
I suspect that it is separate in some way because I have problems
figuring
out how they would be attached and get that effect.

Regina Romsey

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gothic Cape/ (was Timely Topic)

Linda Rice wrote:

> Thanks for the great suggestion and illos, Wanda. I noticed that while
> the cape is buttoned down the right shoulder, the hood arrangement is
> situated correctly on the head. Do you think that the cape and hood
are
> separate items, (thus the hoodless cape is simply rotated to open
> off-center) or is this an integral feature of a one-piece garment?
>
> Also, the brasses show this treatment for men's capes. Do you think
it's
> appropriate for women's capes as well? The brass of John Lyndewode and
> his wife shows something completely different for her.
>
> Thank you, I appreciate any insight anyone may have.
>




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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Sale - European Miniatures in the Metropolitan Museum of Art
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Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 07:12:09 -0500
Status: RO

Oh! Duh! I looked at Amazon and B&N, but didn't think to look at the
'source'! 

Thanks!

Linda

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Rowena
Sent: Sunday, November 03, 2002 1:47 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sale - European Miniatures in the Metropolitan
Museum of Art

At the Metropolitan Museum  web site.   metmuseum.org




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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Nov  3 18:12:53 2002
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From: Mara Riley <corbiegirl@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] winter hand covers
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Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 15:12:04 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Gloves, mittens and mitts (like a glove, but ending about halfway
down the hand; there are examples in Bradfield and in Burnston's
_Fitting and Proper_ were all used.  

Cheers,
Mara

--- Lloyd Mitchell <rmitchell@washjeff.edu> wrote:
> Our 1790s house "on the frontier" has queried what women might use
> for warmth of their hands, particularly on the street, The
> population is diverse. Were gloves, mittens or even muffs in common
> use?                                                     Kathleen  
>                    
> 


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Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 15:13:28 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Oops, just realized this doesn't make much sense.  Trying again:

Gloves, mittens and mitts (like a glove, but ending about halfway
down the hand; there are examples in Bradfield and in Burnston's
_Fitting and Proper_) were all used.  Simple knitted woolen gloves or
mittens would be a good choice.

Cheers,
Mara

--- Lloyd Mitchell <rmitchell@washjeff.edu> wrote:
> Our 1790s house "on the frontier" has queried what women might use
> for warmth of their hands, particularly on the street, The
> population is diverse. Were gloves, mittens or even muffs in common
> use?                                                     Kathleen  
>                    
> 


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Subject: [h-cost] embroidery designs
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Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 15:49:42 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Hi all,
    Is there a site somewhere or has someone
researched embroidery designs used on shifts and
chemises from 1800-1910.  I'm getting my winter
projects ready and need to start with the
under-garments which means lots of embroidery, about
which I know nothing.  Also where is a good place to
get insertion lace and lace with two scalloped edges? 
All the shops around here have lace with one flat and
one scalloped edge or the lace looks so polyester it's
ridiculous.  Thanks.
    Is there a American Civil War ladies costume list
or site that is particularly good.  I can't seem to
find the Civil War lady magazine stats and it looks
like it has had some really good articles.
                                Cassandra

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery designs
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Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 18:02:01 -0600
Status: RO

My favorite online place for trims and laces is:

www.cheeptrims.com

which has everything one could possibly want. You have to buy in moderate
bulk, but most of the stuff I make takes many yards of trims and lace
anyway. The prices are the best I've found and they ship quickly. I've
never had a problem with any of my orders. 

No affiliation- just a happy customer.


Karen

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Nov  3 19:09:41 2002
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Date: Sun, 03 Nov 2002 17:09:32 -0700
Status: RO

Hi, Cassandra.  I'm afraid I don't know anything at all about 19th c.
lingerie embroidery (lovely stuff, but not a time period I've studied).
As far as the insert-lace goes, ISTR the Lacemaker sells it (at least
they used to have some laces in their catalogue...dunno about the
website).  You might also check Lacis, Hedgehog Handiworks, and Amazon
Dry Goods.  They're all on-line, AFAIK.
--sue, working on her own "winter to-do" list ;-D

Cascio Michael wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
>     Is there a site somewhere or has someone
> researched embroidery designs used on shifts and
> chemises from 1800-1910.  I'm getting my winter
> projects ready and need to start with the
> under-garments which means lots of embroidery, about
> which I know nothing.  Also where is a good place to
> get insertion lace and lace with two scalloped edges?
> All the shops around here have lace with one flat and
> one scalloped edge or the lace looks so polyester it's
> ridiculous.  Thanks.
>>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery designs
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Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 19:10:29 -0500
Status: RO

Cassandra,

I have some embroidery patterns online for guimpes at
http://www.costumegallery.com/McCalls/May_1908/Embroidery.htm

I have several beautiful designs in my Delineator collection.  On day they
will be online.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cascio Michael" <rosenau5@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 03, 2002 6:49 PM
Subject: [h-cost] embroidery designs


> Hi all,
>     Is there a site somewhere or has someone
> researched embroidery designs used on shifts and
> chemises from 1800-1910.  I'm getting my winter
> projects ready and need to start with the
> under-garments which means lots of embroidery, about
> which I know nothing.  Also where is a good place to
> get insertion lace and lace with two scalloped edges?
> All the shops around here have lace with one flat and
> one scalloped edge or the lace looks so polyester it's
> ridiculous.  Thanks.
>     Is there a American Civil War ladies costume list
> or site that is particularly good.  I can't seem to
> find the Civil War lady magazine stats and it looks
> like it has had some really good articles.
>                                 Cassandra
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now
> http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> [This E-mail was scanned for viruses by Plugit.com Virus Scanners
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>


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Nov  3 20:25:45 2002
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Date: Sun, 03 Nov 2002 20:22:07 -0500
Status: RO


Everyone else gave such great answers that I'm adding an afterthought.
Sometimes things seem obvious to the writer, but they arent' to the reader.
So in case this wasn't obvious . . . The important thing to remember is that
you still wear the undergarments with the Spanish surcote. It can indeed be
a shortcut or a way to avoid wearing a lot of garments, but it's not an
alternative to, say, wearing a corset. Janet Arnold's book does show a lot
of examples.

Gail Finke

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Nov  3 20:41:36 2002
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Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 19:41:06 -0600
Status: RO

Just don't wear a bumroll! I've never seen a portrait that had a surcote
that showed any evidence of hip padding, and the one time I saw someone
try it, it just looked nasty and wrong. 

But you should definitely be wearing the rest of the underpinnings, you
need the corset for the correct lines even under a surcote, especially if
you do one of the mroe fitted 'princess line' versions.

Karen


On Sun, 03 Nov 2002 20:22:07 -0500 Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
writes:
> 
> Everyone else gave such great answers that I'm adding an 
> afterthought.
> Sometimes things seem obvious to the writer, but they arent' to the 
> reader.
> So in case this wasn't obvious . . . The important thing to remember 
> is that
> you still wear the undergarments with the Spanish surcote. It can 
> indeed be
> a shortcut or a way to avoid wearing a lot of garments, but it's not 
> an
> alternative to, say, wearing a corset. Janet Arnold's book does show 
> a lot
> of examples.
> 
> Gail Finke
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 

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In a message dated 11/3/2002 6:50:46 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
rosenau5@yahoo.com writes:


> 
>     Is there a site somewhere or has someone
> researched embroidery designs used on shifts and
> chemises from 1800-1910. 

I have some mid-century shifts with embroidered necklines and sleeve ends. I 
could try to take some pictures, but they are white on white. It would be a 
good chance to test my skills with my new digicam.

I'll go to the storage unit tomorrow and get them [I've only got about 3 or 
4] and see if I can get a decent photo. I'll post and let you know if it 
worked out and then you [and anyone else] can send me their e-mail address 
and I'll zip the pics up and send them out.

I'll also do the pantalets hems too. May be someone can accurately date them 
for me.

--part1_f.167bcee.2af736af_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 11/3/2002 6:50:46 PM Eastern Standard Time, rosenau5@yahoo.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Is there a site somewhere or has someone
<BR>researched embroidery designs used on shifts and
<BR>chemises from 1800-1910. </FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>I have some mid-century shifts with embroidered necklines and sleeve ends. I could try to take some pictures, but they are white on white. It would be a good chance to test my skills with my new digicam.
<BR>
<BR>I'll go to the storage unit tomorrow and get them [I've only got about 3 or 4] and see if I can get a decent photo. I'll post and let you know if it worked out and then you [and anyone else] can send me their e-mail address and I'll zip the pics up and send them out.
<BR>
<BR>I'll also do the pantalets hems too. May be someone can accurately date them for me.</FONT></HTML>

--part1_f.167bcee.2af736af_boundary--
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: spanish surcote
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Date: Sun, 03 Nov 2002 19:35:28 -0800
Status: RO

thanks all for your information.  it is such a blessing to be able to go to 
this group and get the answers immediately.  I ordered the pattern and know 
what I am going to do.  I actually was wondering about the bum roll.  I am 
going to make my corset as soon as I find somebody to tape me, now that I 
finally found the tape.  It is all such an adventure.  thanks again, maryann

At 07:41 PM 11/3/2002 -0600, seamstrix@juno.com wrote:
>Just don't wear a bumroll! I've never seen a portrait that had a surcote
>that showed any evidence of hip padding, and the one time I saw someone
>try it, it just looked nasty and wrong.
>
>But you should definitely be wearing the rest of the underpinnings, you
>need the corset for the correct lines even under a surcote, especially if
>you do one of the mroe fitted 'princess line' versions.
>
>Karen
>
>
>On Sun, 03 Nov 2002 20:22:07 -0500 Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
>writes:
> >
> > Everyone else gave such great answers that I'm adding an
> > afterthought.
> > Sometimes things seem obvious to the writer, but they arent' to the
> > reader.
> > So in case this wasn't obvious . . . The important thing to remember
> > is that
> > you still wear the undergarments with the Spanish surcote. It can
> > indeed be
> > a shortcut or a way to avoid wearing a lot of garments, but it's not
> > an
> > alternative to, say, wearing a corset. Janet Arnold's book does show
> > a lot
> > of examples.
> >
> > Gail Finke
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
>
>________________________________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 22:22:24 -0600
Status: RO

You could try http://www.marthapullen.com/

she has beautiful lace for insertion and good instructions on how to
do it. Also beautiful patterns some from historic clothes in her
collection but a lot of it is for children. Still i cannot help but
drool over most of the things i have ordered from her.  Good service
the times i have ordered.  She has a beautiful magizine - sigh . . .to
much i would love to try and not enough time to do it.

i promice i am just a happy customer :)


jonica

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Date: Sun, 03 Nov 2002 22:28:08 -0700
Status: RO

Writes what????
Did you hit "send" too soon? <g>
--Sue, who's never, never done that herself, of course!
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Subject: [h-cost] Nov. Online Costume Classes
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 00:54:06 -0500
Status: RO

We have three classes starting at the Costume Classroom
www.costumeclassroom.com  this week:

***Making an Elizabethan Lady's Wardrobe: Elizabethan Gown (this is made
with Margo's pattern)
***A Victorian Lady: Make Your Own Bustle Era Skirt
***Costume Analysis of Four Films Set in 1912-1914

We still have open slots for students in each class.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: forehead cloths
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Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 09:27:25 +0000
Status: RO

The embroidered forehead cloths shown in http://costume.dm.net/headwear/coifpics.html appear to be a single triangular piece rather than a folded square; though the long edge would still be on the bias.
Speaking as one with a strong, thick fringe (bangs) which it's difficult to keep out of the way when in costume, Gail's suggestion sounds worth trying.


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> gailscott@eos.net 11/03/02 02:56pm >>>

But this is what I do. I have a square of white linen that I fold in half on
the cross, with two strips of flat lacing on the corners. I pull my hair
back (I have bangs, and they are so hard to control) and put this on like a
scarf, with the long fold on the bias covering the upper part of my
forehead. I take the laces OVER my head, about the top of my head, and tie
them back at my neck. Then I wear coifs or other headgear on top.




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Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 01:49:25 -0800
Status: RO

7 pc. Victorian 1889 Beaded Bustle Gown NR
Item # 974909500

The description is as 'good' as the pictures.

Kayta

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: embroidery designs (Cascio Michael)
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Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 06:39:56 -0500
Status: RO

At 15:49 PM 11/3/2002 -0800, Cascio Michael <rosenau5@yahoo.com> asked:

>Also where is a good place to get insertion lace
>and lace with two scalloped edges?
>All the shops around here have lace with one flat and
>one scalloped edge or the lace looks so polyester it's
>ridiculous.

What you are looking for in the insertion lace is a shop that sells 
"heirloom sewing" supplies, such as Martha Pullen (already mentioned). You 
may find more clues in the back of _Sew Beautiful_ (Dr. Pullen's bimonthly 
heirloom sewing mag) or _Creative Needle_ (another heirloom sewing mag). 
The laces Dr. Pullen and her competitors sell are either all, or mostly, 
cotton and the insertion/attachment edges (depending on whether the lace is 
an insertion or an edging) have little drawstrings in them that you pull to 
make the lace lay flat along a curved edge.

For the "two scalloped edges", look (among other things) for lace trims 
marked "galloon".

Some vendors occasionally come up with several yards of vintage lace that 
they put up for sale; you may need to/want to inquire about this as well.

You will of course need to pay attention to the patterns of the lace design 
if you are striving for perfect authenticity.


Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 00:54:45 +1300
Status: RO

> 7 pc. Victorian 1889 Beaded Bustle Gown NR
> Item # 974909500
>
> The description is as 'good' as the pictures.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewItem&item=974909500
Oh my, now I don't feel so bad for *losing* a costume competition. Just goes
to show winners aren't always chosen for their accuracy....

I will not comment on a person's taste or what they like in a costume, but
this should never have won any award for accuracy. That's my beef with it:)

michaela
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce
http://recital.tripod.com/costume




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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 06:46:39 -0600
Status: RO

> > 7 pc. Victorian 1889 Beaded Bustle Gown NR
> > Item # 974909500
> >
> I will not comment on a person's taste or what they like in a costume, but
> this should never have won any award for accuracy. That's my beef with
it:)

For those of us just learning, will someone point out some of the most
obvious problems with this costume? I don't like the color, but that doesn't
mean much.  :-)

Denise


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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery designs
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Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 04:50:17 -0800
Status: RO


>     Is there a site somewhere or has someone
>researched embroidery designs used on shifts and
>chemises from 1800-1910.  I'm getting my winter
>projects ready and need to start with the
>under-garments which means lots of embroidery, about
>which I know nothing.

E-bay.  As in, go to e-bay, poke around for corset covers, chemises, and 
petticoats, not to mention those filmy white garden-party dresses, and see 
what kinds of embroidery and lace are on the originals.  Then you do 
whatever they did.  Notice where there is hand embroidery, and where there 
is machine eyelet, machine bobbin lace, machine Valenciennes lace, crochet, 
or just tucking.

Be sure to familiarize yourself with the shapes of the items you are 
making, so you'll know what you're looking at on e-bay.  Some dealers 
describe things as 'Victorian' when what they have is Victorian-look, 
Victorian-style, or Gunnie Sax pieces.  And other dealers will call 
anything 'Victorian', even if it was made after Victoria, or her successor, 
Edward, had died (I'm forever seeing "Victorian Flapper" dresses advertised).

I just spent an hour poking around e-bay, to double-check and see if this 
message was worth posting.  The following items were found when I went to " 
Home > All Categories > Clothing & Accessories > Vintage Clothing, 
Accessories > Clothing (Pre-1980)".  Plug in the item numbers in the 
'search' box to see what I found.

108 items found for Victorian dress

c1900 VICTORIAN Eyelet LACE Dress BEAUTIFUL Item # 974185576
Victorian Cotton Summer Dress Item # 975390339
VICTORIAN White Cotton Baby Dress Item # 977567247
VICTORIAN BABY~INFANT DRESS~PARIS LACE~BEAUTY Item # 977719857

17 items found for Edwardian dress

BEAUTIFUL GIRL'S EDWARDIAN WHITE DRESS Item # 975639246
Lovely Dotted Swiss Edwardian Tea Dress Item # 977988810
Edwardian LINGERIE DRESS Eyelet & Lace 1908 Item # 977941269

2 items found for Edwardian camisole

Edwardian eyelet camisole, MOP buttons Item # 975071784
Gibson Girl 1900s Camisole Edwardian Era Item # 977797627

5 items found for Victorian camisole

beautiful~ANTIQUE/VINTAGE CAMISOLE~victorian Item # 975619483
Sweet and Sexy Victorian camisole Item # 977666739
Victorian Chemise or Camisole Item # 977296103
Victorian Camisole/Corset Cover~Filet Lace!! Item # 975644550

8 items found for Victorian petticoat

1890's victorian petticoat, look! Item # 975140216
Full Length Victorian Lace Petticoat! Item # 975291332
VICTORIAN PETTICOAT SLIP W/ EMBROIDERED GAUZE Item # 975616274
DARLING CHILD'S ANTIQUE VICTORIAN PETTICOAT Item # 977974289
Victorian Muslin Petticoat Crochet Trim Item # 975709307
Vintage VICTORIAN White dbl Flounce PETTICOAT Item # 977968453

4 items found for Edwardian petticoat

Edwardian Petticoat Pin Tucks Lace 30" Waist Item # 975072504
Old Edwardian Cotton Lacey Petticoat Sz LG! Item # 975363855
Vintage FRENCH EDWARDIAN Long Slip PETTICOAT Item # 977565484

2 items found for corset cover

1910 +/- Risque corset cover net and ribbon Item # 974976786

3 items found for drawers

Victorian/Edwardian Child's Buttoned Drawers Item # 975073705
VICTORIAN COTTON BLOOMERS DRAWERS LACE OPENED Item # 977421031

33 items found for chemise

VINTAGE - ANTIQUE CHEMISE MUST SEE!! Item # 975439207
Silk Chemise w/Lace--tea colored--Victorian Item # 975494843
Mint Irish Linen & Broderie Anglais Chemise Item # 975555346
Beautiful Vintage Chemise or Slip LOOK!! Item # 977926588
9th Century Ladies Chemise ID'd NO RESERVE Item # 975709061

15 items found for catalog

1886 Bloomingdale's Catalog Replica MINT Item # 973646189 (Dover reprint)
1891 JORDAN MARSH Illustrated Catalog! Item # 973913785 (reprint)

Kayta

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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 13:11:19 -0000
Status: RO

Kayta wrote:

Subject: [h-cost] prizewinner for "Historical accuracy and
originality"


> 7 pc. Victorian 1889 Beaded Bustle Gown NR
> Item # 974909500
>
> The description is as 'good' as the pictures.

This was supposed to be my first day 'up' after a lengthy bout of
illness. Having looked at this I think I'll go back to bed...

best wishes
Stevie


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Subject: [h-cost] Ermine Muffs on E-bay
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 13:19:34 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,

Well, the first one is said to be from a museum, and to my untutored
eye it looks rather more likely than the monstrosity that Kayta
skewered for us. Any ideas on the dating of both of these?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=974980401&rd=1


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=977505651

best wishes

Stevie

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Nov  4 08:21:42 2002
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From: Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] prizewinner for "Historical accuracy and originality"
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 06:21:49 -0700
Status: RO

If you follow the link at the bottom to the maker's site, it looks
like their custom work is mostly western US, mid to late 1800s.  Was
it called "Victorian" in the US?  I know it wasn't Regency here, it
was "Federalist".  

The gown from eBay is shown under the custom work link, and described
as "an entertainer's gown".  The maker is the one selling it.

http://4dw.net/victorianwardrobe/Menu.html

I know little about Victorian, and I know much less about western US
during the same period.  Perhaps because it's US, an entertainer's
gown, and custom, all add up to make it not look like the sort of
Victorian re-creation items I'm used to seeing.

						...eliz
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ermine Muffs on E-bay
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 13:32:35 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Gods how UGLY!!! Rarely have I seen anything so awful *shudder*
I don't have a clue from when that could be, sorry, but I did have to blurt out
that I really rarely have ever seen such tasteless monstrosities. :-)

Nicole
> 
> Well, the first one is said to be from a museum, and to my untutored
> eye it looks rather more likely than the monstrosity that Kayta
> skewered for us. Any ideas on the dating of both of these?
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=974980401&rd=1
> 
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=977505651
> 
> best wishes
> 
> Stevie
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] prizewinner for "Historical accuracy and originality"
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Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 07:32:14 -0700
Status: RO

I'm not a Victorian-era type, but somehow, this strikes me as a wierd
recreation of some sort of two-part wedding dress.  Modern wedding
dress.  Am I too far off, or is the beading just that overwhelming?
--Sue, safely from the "we never do gaudy" 16th c.! ;-P

michaela wrote:
> 
> > 7 pc. Victorian 1889 Beaded Bustle Gown NR
> > Item # 974909500
> >
> > The description is as 'good' as the pictures.
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewItem&item=974909500
> Oh my, now I don't feel so bad for *losing* a costume competition. Just goes
> to show winners aren't always chosen for their accuracy....
> 
> I will not comment on a person's taste or what they like in a costume, but
> this should never have won any award for accuracy. That's my beef with it:)
> 
> michaela
> http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce
> http://recital.tripod.com/costume
> 
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Nov  4 10:17:56 2002
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 07:17:52 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Thanks for all the good information everyone.  I'll be
looking forward to how the digicam pics turn out.  My
daughter wants a really good digicam for her trip to
Greece next June and we're planning a trip to Kent
State and all their lovely costumes in July so it will
be nice to see what someone can do with  one when it
comes to white-on-white pics.
    Cheeptrims looks good and so does Martha Pullen,
particularly her Martha's attic close-up of antiques.
    Penny that McCalls' page is wonderful and in my
absolute favorite time-frame  ---  Hips and bosom :-)!
Now to add another project to my list.
    Has everyone doing late period seen the new Attic
Copies at Past Patterns?  Finally a 1896 blouse with
those lovely huge sleeves.  What would they have used
for sleeve supports I wonder?
                            Cassandra

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Nov  4 10:35:45 2002
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] prizewinner for "Historical accuracy and originality"
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 09:35:53 -0600
Status: RO

I took a look at this dress, and at her website.

My first impression is, she has modified someone's wedding dress bodice.
A modern one I mean. I have to give her credit, at least it doesn't have
a zipper.

Actually, if this was a quick costume put together on a budget, I could
excuse its faults.

But it certainly isn't worth what they want for it.

The skirt has the correct shape, although the bodice does not. But the
fabrics and lace look pretty tawdry--nylon and acetate.

One glaring problem is the bodice and skirt are of completely different
fabric and color.

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Land of Oz
Sent: Monday, November 04, 2002 6:47 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] prizewinner for "Historical accuracy and
originality"

> > 7 pc. Victorian 1889 Beaded Bustle Gown NR
> > Item # 974909500
> >
> I will not comment on a person's taste or what they like in a costume,
but
> this should never have won any award for accuracy. That's my beef with
it:)

For those of us just learning, will someone point out some of the most
obvious problems with this costume? I don't like the color, but that
doesn't
mean much.  :-)

Denise


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] prizewinner for "Historical accuracy and originality"
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 10:03:13 -0600
Status: RO

Well, with my fairly newly acquired expertise in Victorian, I can see a
couple of things that are wrong with this outfit. First of all, the
bodice is pretty obviously a modern wedding gown pattern. Heck, with that
color scheme it could have been salvaged FROM somebody's wedding gown!
That neckline doesn't have anything to do with what was being worn during
the late 1880's and those sleeves are more or less the sort which were
more commonly found about 5 or 6 years later in the full flower of the
1890's. In the late 1880's the sleeve style was very fitted and close to
the arm with (maybe) the slightest fullness at the very, very top.
Basically it means that those sleeves would have never been worn with a
bustle. There are ball gowns that show a bit of fuller sleeve, but these
are invariably short. The dramatic color contrast between the bodice and
skirt also seemed off to me, I don't see it either in my book of photos
from the era, nor is it shown in fashion plates from the period and I
looked at both and 'Harper's Bazaar' and 'La Mode Illustree'
concentrating on ball gowns which I thought might be the closest analog
to an 'entertainer's gown'. None of them showed a contrast that extreme.
The inset 'gourd' (I know it's probably a typo, but given the rest of the
description it strikes me as funny) is a period usage, but once again,
the extreme contrast that the maker has chosen seems highly questionable
given what appears to have been common practice. I believe that the shape
of the bustle shown with the dress is also incorrect for the late bustle
period. It shows the softer, more sloping line of the early bustle period
rather than the very geometric, squared off shape of the late bustle
period. In addition, the fact that the 'bustle' drape is just an oval(?)
piece attached to the back of the skirt seems off to me as well. The
period usage for bustle draping was that it was usually integrated into
either the bodice (last gasp of the infamous 'cuirass' bodice) or into
the front of the skirt with asymmetry being fashionable. 

Just as a personal note, I was out in Tombstone several years ago and saw
a presentation by a group at the site of the OK Corral and while I
enjoyed the enthusiastic 'community theater' atmosphere, the costuming
was bargain basement B-grade Hollywood Western. If the maker is
associated with this group, and it sounds like she might be, then the
overall level of costuming she is used to being part of is pretty low on
authenticity so this might actually be quite authentic by comparison. All
in all, I'd call this a Fantasy Western/Victorian and just give up on
tooting the authenticity horn. 

Just my groats worth,

Karen


On Mon, 04 Nov 2002 01:49:25 -0800 Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
writes:
> 7 pc. Victorian 1889 Beaded Bustle Gown NR
> Item # 974909500
> 
> The description is as 'good' as the pictures.
> 
> Kayta
> 
>     //// \\\
>    ////-@@\\\
>   ((((   7 )))
>    (((  <> ))))
>       )   ((((((
> /----\   /---\))
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 
> 

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Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 11:54:47 -0500
Status: RO


My only comment is that I'm glad I don't have to see what the rest of the
gowns in the competition looked like! If this is the best of a lot, then
good for the seamstress. She's on her way, anyway, and I recall a few of us
confessing our early works . . .

Gail Finke



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In a message dated 11/4/2002 6:55:29 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
thebruce@ihug.co.nz writes:


> > 7 pc. Victorian 1889 Beaded Bustle Gown NR
> > Item # 974909500
> >
> 

BLEK! 

The wig really enhances this item, no?

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 11/4/2002 6:55:29 AM Eastern Standard Time, thebruce@ihug.co.nz writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">&gt; 7 pc. Victorian 1889 Beaded Bustle Gown NR
<BR>&gt; Item # 974909500
<BR>&gt;
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>BLEK! 
<BR>
<BR>The wig really enhances this item, no?</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 12:12:48 EST
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In a message dated 11/4/2002 7:48:46 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
landofoz@netins.net writes:


> For those of us just learning, will someone point out some of the most
> obvious problems with this costume? I don't like the color, but that doesn't
> mean much.  :-)
> 

Well, everything.

It just doesn't have any understanding of the esthetic of the period it's 
supposed to represent. Even if it were cut from an accurate pattern 
[yeah...right!], it would fail in every other respect.

When designing for another period, not just copying from it, one must 
research until one gets the look and FEEL of tastes at the time. This goes 
beyond just clothes into fabrics, furniture, architecture, painting, manners, 
philosophy.....etc. Then one can put away the research and design.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 11/4/2002 7:48:46 AM Eastern Standard Time, landofoz@netins.net writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">For those of us just learning, will someone point out some of the most
<BR>obvious problems with this costume? I don't like the color, but that doesn't
<BR>mean much. &nbsp;:-)
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Well, everything.
<BR>
<BR>It just doesn't have any understanding of the esthetic of the period it's supposed to represent. Even if it were cut from an accurate pattern [yeah...right!], it would fail in every other respect.
<BR>
<BR>When designing for another period, not just copying from it, one must research until one gets the look and FEEL of tastes at the time. This goes beyond just clothes into fabrics, furniture, architecture, painting, manners, philosophy.....etc. Then one can put away the research and design.</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ermine Muffs on E-bay
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 12:44:43 -0500
Status: RO

>From my own muff collection, I guess about 1905. This seems to be a period
when muffs were getting rediscovered after the mid Victorian period.  One
that I have is black Persian lamb, with a matching stole...and yes, all
those little tails!  Very 'choice'.  Kathleen
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 04, 2002 8:19 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Ermine Muffs on E-bay


> Hi all,
>
> Well, the first one is said to be from a museum, and to my untutored
> eye it looks rather more likely than the monstrosity that Kayta
> skewered for us. Any ideas on the dating of both of these?
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=974980401&rd=1
>
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=977505651
>
> best wishes
>
> Stevie
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 11:42:22 -0600
Status: RO

I'd be a lot more understanding if this was a first effort or an early
effort. But if you follow the link on the page you will see that she is
actually in business making stuff like this and has been for at least a
year. In addition, she actually carries 'Truly Victorian' patterns as
part of her stock so she had access to good design but failed to use it. 

But you are correct that we can't judge her winning of the prize as we
don't know what the rest of the stuff looked like. Yegads, they were
probably even worse! 

Karen




On Mon, 04 Nov 2002 11:54:47 -0500 Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
writes:
> 
> My only comment is that I'm glad I don't have to see what the rest 
> of the gowns in the competition looked like! If this is the best of a
lot, 
> then good for the seamstress. She's on her way, anyway, and I recall a 
> few of us confessing our early works . . .
> 
> Gail Finke
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 

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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Fw: [h-cost] Ermine Muffs on E-bay
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 12:49:02 -0500
Status: RO

The round muff [oh,well, oval then] may be from the last decade of the 19th
C.  KSM
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 04, 2002 8:19 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Ermine Muffs on E-bay


> Hi all,
>
> Well, the first one is said to be from a museum, and to my untutored
> eye it looks rather more likely than the monstrosity that Kayta
> skewered for us. Any ideas on the dating of both of these?
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=974980401&rd=1
>
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=977505651
>
> best wishes
>
> Stevie
>
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Nov  4 12:54:39 2002
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From: Mara Riley <corbiegirl@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] prizewinner for "Historical accuracy and originality"
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 09:53:47 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

That's what it looks like to me, too -- like someone went to the
thrift shop and got a modern wedding dress and re-made it.  It
certainly doesn't look like a late 19th c. gown to me!

Ah, well...  As someone recently said -- to lots of people, History
is just one big lump of old stuff with costumes.  Just have to shake
my head in amazement and move on.

-- Mara

--- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote:
> I'm not a Victorian-era type, but somehow, this strikes me as a
> wierd
> recreation of some sort of two-part wedding dress.  Modern wedding
> dress.  Am I too far off, or is the beading just that overwhelming?
> --Sue, safely from the "we never do gaudy" 16th c.! ;-P


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Subject: Fw: [h-cost] embroidery designs
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 13:02:07 -0500
Status: RO

If you check Mrs. Beaton's orTreasures in Needlework by Mrs Warren and Mrs
Pullan [first published in 1870] and re issued in 1973, you will find any
number of patterns and instructions  to ornament you nether white things. I
do believe that colored work on lingerie was not considered in the best of
taste.  KSM
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 04, 2002 7:50 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery designs


>
> >     Is there a site somewhere or has someone
> >researched embroidery designs used on shifts and
> >chemises from 1800-1910.  I'm getting my winter
> >projects ready and need to start with the
> >under-garments which means lots of embroidery, about
> >which I know nothing.
>
> E-bay.  As in, go to e-bay, poke around for corset covers, chemises, and
> petticoats, not to mention those filmy white garden-party dresses, and see
> what kinds of embroidery and lace are on the originals.  Then you do
> whatever they did.  Notice where there is hand embroidery, and where there
> is machine eyelet, machine bobbin lace, machine Valenciennes lace,
crochet,
> or just tucking.
>
> Be sure to familiarize yourself with the shapes of the items you are
> making, so you'll know what you're looking at on e-bay.  Some dealers
> describe things as 'Victorian' when what they have is Victorian-look,
> Victorian-style, or Gunnie Sax pieces.  And other dealers will call
> anything 'Victorian', even if it was made after Victoria, or her
successor,
> Edward, had died (I'm forever seeing "Victorian Flapper" dresses
advertised).
>
> I just spent an hour poking around e-bay, to double-check and see if this
> message was worth posting.  The following items were found when I went to
"
> Home > All Categories > Clothing & Accessories > Vintage Clothing,
> Accessories > Clothing (Pre-1980)".  Plug in the item numbers in the
> 'search' box to see what I found.
>
> 108 items found for Victorian dress
>
> c1900 VICTORIAN Eyelet LACE Dress BEAUTIFUL Item # 974185576
> Victorian Cotton Summer Dress Item # 975390339
> VICTORIAN White Cotton Baby Dress Item # 977567247
> VICTORIAN BABY~INFANT DRESS~PARIS LACE~BEAUTY Item # 977719857
>
> 17 items found for Edwardian dress
>
> BEAUTIFUL GIRL'S EDWARDIAN WHITE DRESS Item # 975639246
> Lovely Dotted Swiss Edwardian Tea Dress Item # 977988810
> Edwardian LINGERIE DRESS Eyelet & Lace 1908 Item # 977941269
>
> 2 items found for Edwardian camisole
>
> Edwardian eyelet camisole, MOP buttons Item # 975071784
> Gibson Girl 1900s Camisole Edwardian Era Item # 977797627
>
> 5 items found for Victorian camisole
>
> beautiful~ANTIQUE/VINTAGE CAMISOLE~victorian Item # 975619483
> Sweet and Sexy Victorian camisole Item # 977666739
> Victorian Chemise or Camisole Item # 977296103
> Victorian Camisole/Corset Cover~Filet Lace!! Item # 975644550
>
> 8 items found for Victorian petticoat
>
> 1890's victorian petticoat, look! Item # 975140216
> Full Length Victorian Lace Petticoat! Item # 975291332
> VICTORIAN PETTICOAT SLIP W/ EMBROIDERED GAUZE Item # 975616274
> DARLING CHILD'S ANTIQUE VICTORIAN PETTICOAT Item # 977974289
> Victorian Muslin Petticoat Crochet Trim Item # 975709307
> Vintage VICTORIAN White dbl Flounce PETTICOAT Item # 977968453
>
> 4 items found for Edwardian petticoat
>
> Edwardian Petticoat Pin Tucks Lace 30" Waist Item # 975072504
> Old Edwardian Cotton Lacey Petticoat Sz LG! Item # 975363855
> Vintage FRENCH EDWARDIAN Long Slip PETTICOAT Item # 977565484
>
> 2 items found for corset cover
>
> 1910 +/- Risque corset cover net and ribbon Item # 974976786
>
> 3 items found for drawers
>
> Victorian/Edwardian Child's Buttoned Drawers Item # 975073705
> VICTORIAN COTTON BLOOMERS DRAWERS LACE OPENED Item # 977421031
>
> 33 items found for chemise
>
> VINTAGE - ANTIQUE CHEMISE MUST SEE!! Item # 975439207
> Silk Chemise w/Lace--tea colored--Victorian Item # 975494843
> Mint Irish Linen & Broderie Anglais Chemise Item # 975555346
> Beautiful Vintage Chemise or Slip LOOK!! Item # 977926588
> 9th Century Ladies Chemise ID'd NO RESERVE Item # 975709061
>
> 15 items found for catalog
>
> 1886 Bloomingdale's Catalog Replica MINT Item # 973646189 (Dover reprint)
> 1891 JORDAN MARSH Illustrated Catalog! Item # 973913785 (reprint)
>
> Kayta
>
>     //// \\\
>    ////-@@\\\
>   ((((   7 )))
>    (((  <> ))))
>       )   ((((((
> /----\   /---\))
>
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: prizewinning victorian
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 13:02:01 EST
Status: RO


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In a message dated 11/4/02 9:01:27 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
gailscott@eos.net writes:


> She's on her way, anyway, and I recall a few of us
> confessing our early works . . .
> 

Let's see, the sleeves from L. Cranch's Portrait of Sybilla of Cleves 
attached by ties to a mid-fifteenth century fur trimmed V necked gown with 
false under gown which laced on both sides in a 100% gold polyester brocade.  
I got so many compliments on that dress too!  It looked good to me at the 
time but not now.  The unfortunate thing is it was for a friend's renewal of 
vows ceremony so the picture of it is prominently displayed in her home for 
all to see (and jeer)!  It is true though, one does have to start somewhere.

Lisa

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 11/4/02 9:01:27 AM Pacific Standard Time, gailscott@eos.net writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">She's on her way, anyway, and I recall a few of us<BR>
confessing our early works . . .<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Let's see, the sleeves from L. Cranch's Portrait of Sybilla of Cleves attached by ties to a mid-fifteenth century fur trimmed V necked gown with false under gown which laced on both sides in a 100% gold polyester brocade.&nbsp; I got so many compliments on that dress too!&nbsp; It looked good to me at the time but not now.&nbsp; The unfortunate thing is it was for a friend's renewal of vows ceremony so the picture of it is prominently displayed in her home for all to see (and jeer)!&nbsp; It is true though, one does have to start somewhere.<BR>
<BR>
Lisa</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 13:13:06 -0500
Status: RO

This  strange ensemble had another life as a wedding gown and has been
dickied up for entertainment for sure. The style and placement of the beaded
motifs are right out of a costume supply catalogue.  I sure hope that it
isn't intended for an Historical event like a Christmas candlelight tour.If
it survives in someone's closet for a hundred years, it will still be
screaming "1990s"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 04, 2002 9:32 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] prizewinner for "Historical accuracy and originality"


> I'm not a Victorian-era type, but somehow, this strikes me as a wierd
> recreation of some sort of two-part wedding dress.  Modern wedding
> dress.  Am I too far off, or is the beading just that overwhelming?
> --Sue, safely from the "we never do gaudy" 16th c.! ;-P
>
> michaela wrote:
> >
> > > 7 pc. Victorian 1889 Beaded Bustle Gown NR
> > > Item # 974909500
> > >
> > > The description is as 'good' as the pictures.
> >
> >
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewItem&item=974909500
> > Oh my, now I don't feel so bad for *losing* a costume competition. Just
goes
> > to show winners aren't always chosen for their accuracy....
> >
> > I will not comment on a person's taste or what they like in a costume,
but
> > this should never have won any award for accuracy. That's my beef with
it:)
> >
> > michaela
> > http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce
> > http://recital.tripod.com/costume
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 13:15:46 EST
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In a message dated 11/4/2002 9:33:38 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
mooncat@in-tch.com writes:


> , this strikes me as a wierd
> recreation of some sort of two-part wedding dress.  Modern wedding
> dress.  

My sentiments exactly.  I late 19th century gown could be beaded, but not 
quite like this!
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 11/4/2002 9:33:38 AM Eastern Standard Time, mooncat@in-tch.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">, this strikes me as a wierd<BR>
recreation of some sort of two-part wedding dress.&nbsp; Modern wedding<BR>
dress.&nbsp; </BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
My sentiments exactly.&nbsp; I late 19th century gown could be beaded, but not quite like this!<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: prizewinning victorian
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 13:21:02 EST
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In a message dated 11/4/2002 12:01:42 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
gailscott@eos.net writes:


> and I recall a few of us
> confessing our early works . . .
> 
> 

Yes, mine was truly awful--a LOT worse than this, but I didn't try to sell it 
for almost $2000, either.
Ann Wass

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 11/4/2002 12:01:42 PM Eastern Standard Time, gailscott@eos.net writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">and I recall a few of us<BR>
confessing our early works . . .<BR>
<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Yes, mine was truly awful--a LOT worse than this, but I didn't try to sell it for almost $2000, either.<BR>
Ann Wass</FONT></HTML>

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From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Early Efforts, was: prizewinning victorian
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Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 11:26:46 -0800
Status: RO


 
> She's on her way, anyway, and I recall a few of us
> confessing our early works . . .

1977:  "Elizabethan Court Dress", pale yellow lightweight satin, with black
velvet accents and gold sequin embellished braid.  Heavily darted bodice
worn over 50's Merry Widow, becasue I'd read that they wore corsets.  18th
century style ladder of bows up the front of the bodice, further
embellished with swags of gold chain and filligree bits.  Huge mahoitered
sleeves, with the upper puffs smocked with gold beads, and the lower
portions fastened with zippers. Back of the bodice fastened with hooks and
eyes, and had ribbons tacked on in a crisscross pattern to make it look
like it laced! Forepart of black velvet latticed with cotton lace that I
spray painted gold, and rossettes of those plastic faceted beads that
crafter grandmas use.  

At first I wore this with no petticoats at all, for fear of looking fat.
Later I figured out I should have a hoop, and made one out of wire that
buckled and flooped into weird parabola shapes when I wore it.  "Standing"
ruff of black lace, that wouldn't stand, so it flopped down my back.  Small
gold framed mirror and gold filligree purse, hung from the waist on chains.
 Black ballet slippers and sheer black pantyhose.  50's black velvet hat
with ostrich plume attched with big gaudy pin. 

I got better.


Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Nov  4 15:51:43 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] e-bay 7-pc beaded gown
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 12:50:45 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I'm going to have to stick in my two cents worth.  I
used to sell and do alterations on wedding gowns and
the bodice is definitely a wedding gown down to and
including the beaded lace appliques.  If I recall you
could order that one with laces because it was
supposed to be "period".  The teal is a pretty color
but the godets don't seem right, especially for a
bustle gown.
    Thanks for the e-bay numbers to look at the
embroidery.  I don't do e-bay unless someone posts a
link here.  "Thou shalt not go to auctions when the
septic system needs replaced." (DH)
                         Cassandra          

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From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: prizewinning victorian
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 21:19:51 -0000
Status: RO

Karen wrote:

> I'd be a lot more understanding if this was a first effort or an
early
> effort. But if you follow the link on the page you will see that she
is
> actually in business making stuff like this and has been for at
least a
> year. In addition, she actually carries 'Truly Victorian' patterns
as
> part of her stock so she had access to good design but failed to use
it.

Indeed; if you look at

http://4dw.net/victorianwardrobe/CustomDresses.html

on her website, about half way down the page you will find someone
modelling a

'Fully beaded bodice and side gored Entertainer Gown w/ matching
capelet and hair piece.'

which appears to be the same outfit. No reference to winning prizes,
or being worth $1800,  though. I know that all's fair in love, war and
on e-bay, but I really, really, hope that no-one blows their savings
on this tawdry mockery of an historic costume.

best wishes
Stevie


> But you are correct that we can't judge her winning of the prize as
we
> don't know what the rest of the stuff looked like. Yegads, they were
> probably even worse!
>
> Karen
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, 04 Nov 2002 11:54:47 -0500 Gail & Scott Finke
<gailscott@eos.net>
> writes:
> >
> > My only comment is that I'm glad I don't have to see what the rest
> > of the gowns in the competition looked like! If this is the best
of a
> lot,
> > then good for the seamstress. She's on her way, anyway, and I
recall a
> > few of us confessing our early works . . .
> >
> > Gail Finke
> >
> >
> >
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Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 17:18:25 -0500
Status: RO

Has anyone taken a look at these yet? My mother wants something to wear to Dickens-on-the-Strand next month and she spotted these at Jo-Anns last week. Comments, suggestions, other pattern recommendations welcome. Thanks

http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.3417=x&TI=10013&pageNum=1&M=&UK=20315132
http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.3418=x&TI=10013&pageNum=1&M=&UK=20315132

Barbara
Houston, TX

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern help
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 16:29:37 -0600
Status: RO

I don't know what period 'Dicken-On-The-Strand' is supposed to be, but
isn't classic Dickens set pre-1860? Those two patterns are actually very
good for late 1890's, say about 1897/98. They are designs from "La Mode
Illustree' from 1897. Whoever designed them lifted them almost perfectly
from the illustrations. If you want to make something that late, then
they are a good choice, if you want something more midcentury, then you
should look at the Simplicity Civil War era patterns which I understand
are quite good for that period.



Karen
(feeling very Victorian today for some reason.....)


On Mon, 04 Nov 2002 17:18:25 -0500 Tigershadowe@netscape.net (Barbara
Corley) writes:
> Has anyone taken a look at these yet? My mother wants something to 
> wear to Dickens-on-the-Strand next month and she spotted these at 
> Jo-Anns last week. Comments, suggestions, other pattern 
> recommendations welcome. Thanks
> 
>
http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.3417=x&TI=
10013&pageNum=1&M=&UK=20315132
>
http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.3418=x&TI=
10013&pageNum=1&M=&UK=20315132
> 
> Barbara
> Houston, TX
> 
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Nov  4 17:33:01 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern help
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Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 15:10:01 -0700
Status: RO

on 11/4/02 3:18 PM, Barbara Corley at Tigershadowe@netscape.net wrote:

> Has anyone taken a look at these yet? My mother wants something to wear to
> Dickens-on-the-Strand next month and she spotted these at Jo-Anns last week.
> Comments, suggestions, other pattern recommendations welcome. Thanks
> 
> http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.3417=x&TI=10013
> &pageNum=1&M=&UK=20315132
> http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.3418=x&TI=10013
> &pageNum=1&M=&UK=20315132
> 
These are from the latter half of the century, not from Dickens' period.
When I think of Dickens costumes, I think of anything from about 1820 to
1860.  Could be earlier than 1820 or later that the book starts, I can't
quite recall at the moment, but it ends definitely no later than 1860.


Sylvia Rognstad
-- 
Divinity Designs and Emeralds
http://www.d-e-designs.com

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Nov  4 18:33:28 2002
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 18:32:12 -0500
Status: RO

We have a new online class called "Bias Basics: Making a 1930s Inspired
Gown" at the Costume Classroom.  It will start in early March and is taught
by Kim Grant.  She is an expert at working with the bias.  We do expect this
class to book up quickly.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Nov  4 19:38:54 2002
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Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 17:38:04 -0700
Status: RO

Well, it's pretty astounding.  Very 1980's Nashville to me.  Need's Ms. 
Parton's bosoms and hair, though, to really set it off.

What got me the most were the "gourds" in the skirt.  Call me nutty, but if 
one is going to bandy about dressmaking terms, one should endeavor to spell 
them in the vicinity of correctly.

This is truly an example of Caveat Emptor.  But what a fun Monday treat. :-) 
  The very sad thing is that there is obviously a heck of a lot of work and 
talent being misdirected... all that beading and applique, properly applied 
to something with historic aesthetic, would go far!

(And my first attempt at period sewing was pretty bad, so I know from whence 
I speak!  Still... not THIS level of work.)

Elizabeth
http://www.elizabethstewartclark.com





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Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 19:39:09 -0500
Status: RO


Okay, I take back everything nice I said (or rather, everything not nice
that I refrained from saying). I thought that someone else was selling the
dress, not the maker, and that the $599 opening bid was the price ($1,200!).

Yes, it's obviously a redone wedding gown, I can't believe anyone would sell
it as authentically styled. Oh well, no one has bid so maybe the public is
not as naive and/or tasteless as we pessimistically assume. I'm sure that it
fits some people's idea of a beautiful dress. It's the "authentic" part I
object to. If you look at the link, you can see it on a real live person!
And you can also see the seller's other (and apparently only) sewing
offering, a "saloon dress." Sigh.

Gail Finke

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Nov  4 20:21:57 2002
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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:prizewinner for "Historical accuracy and originality
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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 14:20:08 +1300
Status: RO

<<  The very sad thing is that there is obviously a heck of a lot of work
and
talent being misdirected... all that beading and applique, properly applied
to something with historic aesthetic, would go far!>>

Yes, and someone wanted to know what was wrong about it? Everything.
Take a look at some real garments, it's too much to ask for everything
that's wrong with it if you are trying to explain it to someone with little
knowelege of the era:

1888 reception gown, this is close to the end of the decade with a chagnce
to more gored and fitted skirts, but as you can see quite a way from the
skirt of the costume:
http://www.antique-fashion.com/2155.htm

1878-1880 reception gown, from the other end of the era and again very
different from the costume.
http://www.antique-fashion.com/2083.htm

1880 Wedding Dress
http://www.antique-fashion.com/0179.htm

And now for the more vibrant examples:
http://www.vintagetextile.com/newpage60.htm
Blue base with floral design, still vastly different. From about the era I
think the costume is trying to approximate.*

http://www.vintagetextile.com/newpage78.htm
Green and cream later 19thC kick up sleeves and vestige of a bustle, but
shaping of sleeve is quite different.*

http://www.vintagetextile.com/newpage510.htm
One of my favs, vibrant black and gold late 1870s dress, just to show how
outrageous some dresses could be (and this is not even close to the most
outstanding)

I have a few photos of Sarah Bernhardt in amazing 1880s costumes that suit
the title of the play she wore them for "Frou Frou", but the trims and
puffings are nothing like seen on the costume of the title of this email.
The lace appliques are very modern looking.

The idea of the shoulder cape is right, and there are plenty of examples of
ones made of tiers of lace, but the mix of colours and choice of materials
and shaping isn't accurate.

<< Well, it's pretty astounding.  Very 1980's Nashville to me.  Need's Ms.
Parton's bosoms and hair, though, to really set it off.>>

My thoughts exactly, and if people like it then it's not my place to
comment, but it's certainly not 1880s, entertainer or not;)

<< going to bandy about dressmaking terms, one should endeavor to spell
them in the vicinity of correctly.>>

I was thinking compassionately that it might well have been a spell check
glitch;) You know when you just click change and not see what a word is
being changed to;)

<<(And my first attempt at period sewing was pretty bad, so I know from
whence
I speak!  Still... not THIS level of work.)>>

Not even my quickie throw together Ever After masque dress is quite in this
category;) And I'm certainly not attempting to pass it off as authentic nor
for a stupendous amount of dosh. I never really intended it to be an attempt
at historical costuming, but have shoved in in that section of my site as
it's not really "fantasy" either;)

Again, no quibbles with people's first attempts (and this clearly isn't)
just poor representation of the facts.

michaela
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce
http://recital.tripod.com/costume
* I'm thinking of making a gown in one of these two styles from some funky
blue and silvery cream chinese brocade with a feather like pattern. Sinuous
pattern like the green gown, teelish blue like the blue gown...


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Nov  4 20:40:18 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com, h-costume@indra.com
From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: [h-cost] New List for Pattern Producers
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Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 17:42:32 -0800
Status: RO

Hi everyone:  I've started a new mailing list for those of use who are or
want to be in the business of making patterns for sale.  Go to
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/patternproducers/  to join.

Thanks,

Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Nov  4 21:01:50 2002
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From: "Glenda Robinson" <glendar@compassnet.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:prizewinner for "Historical accuracy and originality
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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 13:02:32 +1100
Status: RO

Come to think of it, a few well-placed squashes would stop the skirts
blowing up in a strong wind...

Being silly today,

Glenda.
----- Original Message -----
> What got me the most were the "gourds" in the skirt.  Call me nutty, but
if
> one is going to bandy about dressmaking terms, one should endeavor to
spell
> them in the vicinity of correctly.
>
> Elizabeth
> http://www.elizabethstewartclark.com


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Nov  4 21:35:56 2002
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From: Mara Riley <corbiegirl@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern help
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 18:35:03 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

A better choice for Dickens would be some of the patterns from Past
Patterns:
http://www.pastpatterns.com/1850.html
The gathered-front bodice is an attractive look, I think... She's
also got an 1830s style dress on another page of the web site.

Cheers,
Mara


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Mon Nov  4 21:59:52 2002
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From: "Kala Jathos" <matrixsinger@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] prizewinner for "Historical accuracy and originality"
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Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 18:59:52 -0800
Status: RO

I would like to add my 2¢ and say that *nodoy* should EVER win a prize for 
"originality" for buying out the entire section of venise lace appliques in 
the bridal section of JoAnns.  No, really - I recognized at least three of 
those - and some of that lace in the back comes pre gathered even.  How 
silly!

-Laura


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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 23:44:43 EST
Status: RO


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In a message dated 11/4/2002 9:36:49 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
corbiegirl@yahoo.com writes:


> A better choice for Dickens would be some of the patterns from Past
> Patterns:
> 

Yes. The other patterns are too late. I think a Dickens Christmas even should 
be around 1845 or so....that says "A Christmas Carol". You won't need a hoop 
then. Just lots of petticoats.
And the #708 corset is fantastic! It will work for 1830s too [it's on the 
1830s page] and any Dickens period. It's easy to make but doesn't have enough 
boning for me. I put a bone between each bone marked in the pattern. It has a 
great shape.

I will warn you to make a muslin mock up of the dress first. Sometimes Past 
Patterns do not fit well for the size indicated. But the basic shapes are 
correct so make it up in muslin 1st and fit it, then make the corrected 
pattern up in the real fabric.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 11/4/2002 9:36:49 PM Eastern Standard Time, corbiegirl@yahoo.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">A better choice for Dickens would be some of the patterns from Past
<BR>Patterns:
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Yes. The other patterns are too late. I think a Dickens Christmas even should be around 1845 or so....that says "A Christmas Carol". You won't need a hoop then. Just lots of petticoats.
<BR>And the #708 corset is fantastic! It will work for 1830s too [it's on the 1830s page] and any Dickens period. It's easy to make but doesn't have enough boning for me. I put a bone between each bone marked in the pattern. It has a great shape.
<BR>
<BR>I will warn you to make a muslin mock up of the dress first. Sometimes Past Patterns do not fit well for the size indicated. But the basic shapes are correct so make it up in muslin 1st and fit it, then make the corrected pattern up in the real fabric.</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 00:30:58 -0500
Status: RO

Thanks everyone. I had a feeling they were the wrong time period.

Barbara
Houston, TX

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: prizewinning victorian
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Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 21:11:03 -0800
Status: RO


>>and I recall a few of us
>>confessing our early works . . .
>
>Yes, mine was truly awful--a LOT worse than this, but I didn't try to sell 
>it for almost $2000, either.

I keep my first SCA costume, and have been known to show it to people on 
occasion.  I've come a long way from my 1971 polyester poplin Albrecht Durer.

Kayta

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Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 21:16:10 -0800
Status: RO


>Okay, I take back everything nice I said (or rather, everything not nice
>that I refrained from saying). I thought that someone else was selling the
>dress, not the maker, and that the $599 opening bid was the price ($1,200!).
>
>Yes, it's obviously a redone wedding gown, I can't believe anyone would sell
>it as authentically styled. Oh well, no one has bid so maybe the public is
>not as naive and/or tasteless as we pessimistically assume. I'm sure that it
>fits some people's idea of a beautiful dress. It's the "authentic" part I
>object to. If you look at the link, you can see it on a real live person!
>And you can also see the seller's other (and apparently only) sewing
>offering, a "saloon dress." Sigh.

The perverse side of me spent several minutes looking for dates on the 
event, so I could maybe go there next year and see it.  I'd wear something 
I had made, of course.  As it happens, I attended second grade in 
Tombstone, and rode by their Boot Hill twice every week day.  (How long ago 
was that?  The bus driver was very fond of Perry Como on the radio.)


Kayta

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Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 21:36:25 -0800
Status: RO


>Come to think of it, a few well-placed squashes would stop the skirts
>blowing up in a strong wind...

Thrown?  Oops - I'm being mean.

> > What got me the most were the "gourds" in the skirt.  Call me nutty, but
>if
> > one is going to bandy about dressmaking terms, one should endeavor to
>spell
> > them in the vicinity of correctly.
> >
> > Elizabeth
> > http://www.elizabethstewartclark.com
>
>
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Kayta

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] period embroidery
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Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 21:38:18 -0800
Status: RO


>Finally a 1896 blouse with
>those lovely huge sleeves.  What would they have used
>for sleeve supports I wonder?

First, the sleeves were lined with a close-fitting lining, which keeps the 
puffy part from sliding down the arm and off the hand.  Second, the sleeves 
themselves were hollow, and would have kept in shape by the stiffness of 
the material, by itself or by being starched.  There is a contemporary 
picture of a gentleman discreetly reaching into a lady's jacket sleeve to 
re-poof it, and there's a Charles Dana Gibson illustration called something 
like 'The Story of a Sleeve', where the two newlyweds are sitting a decent 
distance apart when the porter arrives at their room with their steamer 
trunk, but one of the bride's sleeves, the one on her new husband's side, 
is flattened.

Kayta

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] period embroidery
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 22:53:01 -0800
Status: RO

They also used sleeve supports, which could be down-stuffed "pillows" or
little hoops worn around the arm.  There are pictures of these in the book
from last year's "Extreme Beauty" exhibit at the Met.  On the one 1890's
that I've made so far, I actually stuffed the sleeve with pillow stuffing!

- Kendra

----- Original Message -----
From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 04, 2002 9:38 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] period embroidery


>
> >Finally a 1896 blouse with
> >those lovely huge sleeves.  What would they have used
> >for sleeve supports I wonder?
>
> First, the sleeves were lined with a close-fitting lining, which keeps the
> puffy part from sliding down the arm and off the hand.  Second, the
sleeves
> themselves were hollow, and would have kept in shape by the stiffness of
> the material, by itself or by being starched.  There is a contemporary
> picture of a gentleman discreetly reaching into a lady's jacket sleeve to
> re-poof it, and there's a Charles Dana Gibson illustration called
something
> like 'The Story of a Sleeve', where the two newlyweds are sitting a decent
> distance apart when the porter arrives at their room with their steamer
> trunk, but one of the bride's sleeves, the one on her new husband's side,
> is flattened.
>
> Kayta
>
>     //// \\\
>    ////-@@\\\
>   ((((   7 )))
>    (((  <> ))))
>       )   ((((((
> /----\   /---\))
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] period embroidery
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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 01:30:07 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Kayta wrote:
> >Finally a 1896 blouse with
> >those lovely huge sleeves.  What would they have used
> >for sleeve supports I wonder?
> 
> First, the sleeves were lined with a close-fitting lining, which keeps the 
> puffy part from sliding down the arm and off the hand.  Second, the sleeves 
> themselves were hollow, and would have kept in shape by the stiffness of 
> the material, by itself or by being starched.  There is a contemporary 
> picture of a gentleman discreetly reaching into a lady's jacket sleeve to 
> re-poof it, and there's a Charles Dana Gibson illustration called something 
> like 'The Story of a Sleeve', where the two newlyweds are sitting a decent 
> distance apart when the porter arrives at their room with their steamer 
> trunk, but one of the bride's sleeves, the one on her new husband's side, 
> is flattened.

I'll agree that if the shirtwaist was cotton or linen, simple starching
will keep it big.  In the 1980s, I had a cotton shirt made on an 1890s
pattern that I occasionally wore with New Romantic clothes.  The sleeve
was made all in one piece (no liner) and it still stayed up if I used enough
starch during ironing.  
[gods, I'm glad I don't have photos of some of the things I wore during my
transition between punk and new romantic/goth...]

--Lee

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:prizewinner for "Historical accuracy and originality
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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 06:04:34 -0500
Status: RO


----- Original Message -----
From: "michaela" > http://www.vintagetextile.com/newpage78.htm
> Green and cream later 19thC kick up sleeves and vestige of a bustle, but
> shaping of sleeve is quite different.*
>
These are all gorgeous, but the green and cream one is just to die for. What
an utterly exquisite dress. THIS I would pay $1800 for!!

Dianne


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Subject: [h-cost] E-bay HAND PAINTED EDWARDIAN GAUZE & LACE FAN
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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 12:29:29 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,

This seems rather pretty, but I know zilch about fans. 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=728573733&rd=1


Any observations on dating and usage?

best wishes
Stevie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern help
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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 07:41:34 -0500
Status: RO

I bought the first pattern just as something to compare with examples in my
collection.  To begin, this [even if it was correct] would not be the right
period for a Dickens event.  It is turn of the 20th century.  The other
pattern is trying to be late 19th century.. The other problem s begin with
the buttons up the back.  These bodices always are closed in front , or on
the right side.  One of the joys of shirtwaists was the fact you didn't need
a maid  to get dressed.       Kathleen.


> Has anyone taken a look at these yet? My mother wants something to wear to
Dickens-on-the-Strand next month and she spotted these at Jo-Anns last week.
Comments, suggestions, other pattern recommendations welcome. Thanks
>
>
http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.3417=x&TI=100
13&pageNum=1&M=&UK=20315132
>
http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.3418=x&TI=100
13&pageNum=1&M=&UK=20315132
>
> Barbara
> Houston, TX
>
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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 13:06:26 -0000
Status: RO


Hi all,

Well, one of you may have the pocket to pay $105 per yard:-) 


http://www.stardustfabrics.com/html/112.htm


best wishes
Stevie

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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 13:13:54 GMT
Status: RO

Stevie Gamble <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com> wrote :

> Hi all,
> 
> Well, one of you may have the pocket to pay $105 per yard:-) 
> 
> 
> http://www.stardustfabrics.com/html/112.htm

And it *can* be bought by the quarter-yard. Accessories rather than clothing, unless you're *very* small, of course.

(About £17.... hmm, if I could think of something to do with it, that *is* possible)

What do people make of the pattern? What period would that be right for?




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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern help
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Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 13:52:03 +0000
Status: RO

Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

>When I think of Dickens costumes, I think of anything from about 1820 to
>1860.  Could be earlier than 1820 or later that the book starts, I can't
>quite recall at the moment, but it ends definitely no later than 1860.

Dickens was writing from the late 1830s to his death in 1870, though many of his non-historical novels are set at vaguely defined periods in the earlier part of the century.




Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern help
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Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 08:53:38 -0500
Status: RO

At 09:45 PM 11/4/2002 -0700, Karen responded to Barbara's request for help:




>>http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.3417=x&TI=10013&pageNum=1&M=&UK=20315132


>Those two patterns are actually very good for late 1890's, say about 1897/98.
>They are designs from "La Mode Illustree' from 1897. Whoever designed
>them lifted them almost perfectly from the illustrations.

I purchased the blouse pattern a couple of months ago because I liked the 
look, not too worried about how accurate it would be for what time (I was 
considering adapting it for mundane use <g>). I have it currently cut out 
of a lightweight black wool (sold to me as a challis, but really more of a 
crepe) but have not yet sewn it up.

One thing I noted about the pattern is that the puff on the upper sleeve is 
done by an undersleeve lining (I think Butterick calls it a "stay")... 
which means that if your fabric isn't crisp, the puff will droop -- and it 
will be a problem to iron.

At the "Extreme Beauty" exhibit (and in the catalog), I saw a number of 
boned "sleeve stays" that tied to the corset cover/chemisette/camisole 
(depending on the era?), and I'm looking towards the idea of using sleeve 
stays instead of the indicated, umm, lining. While I'm not concerned about 
authenticity for a blouse I intend to wear primarily mundanely, I'm 
wondering what would have been the accurate period construction?


Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 09:12:51 EST
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In a message dated 11/5/2002 8:53:43 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
webwarren@earthlink.net writes:


> I'm 
> wondering what would have been the accurate period construction?
> 

Flat lining the fashion fabric with something that was stuff would do the 
trick. It could be organdy or even a coarse, stiff linen. If I were making it 
today I might choose silk organdy if the designer insisted on something 
period inside the sleeve but a better, and cheeper choice would be some light 
but uncrushable synthetic. I'd check out the drapery sheer department....

--part1_1a7.b6a0070.2af92be3_boundary
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 11/5/2002 8:53:43 AM Eastern Standard Time, webwarren@earthlink.net writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I'm 
<BR>wondering what would have been the accurate period construction?
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Flat lining the fashion fabric with something that was stuff would do the trick. It could be organdy or even a coarse, stiff linen. If I were making it today I might choose silk organdy if the designer insisted on something period inside the sleeve but a better, and cheeper choice would be some light but uncrushable synthetic. I'd check out the drapery sheer department....</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 09:16:25 -0500
Status: RO

To bring you an update, the local (Davenport, IA) paper had another little
write up about the exhibit on Sunday.  Just wanted you to know that our
friend, Eleanora of Toledo and her son , Giovanni (by Bronzino) will be
there. The article was accompanied by a nearly 3x5" very good, color photo.
I am so excited about getting an opportunity to see this painting!  The last
time I was at the Art Institute (early 90's), they didn't allow cameras;
this time I will take a small one and ask again. I've a little talent in art
and sewing, but I can't draw doodles compared to this. It's humbling just to
see this work in a photo, it may be overload to see this and other exquisite
pieces "in person".  Good thing my daughter is going with me, she can drag
me out of the way so others can see the items.

Connie E. Fairchild 
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 100% Silk Cut Velvet
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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 15:38:56 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- jane@williams.nildram.co.uk wrote: > Stevie Gamble
<stevie.gamble@btinternet.com> wrote :
> 
> > Hi all,
> > 
> > Well, one of you may have the pocket to pay $105 per yard:-) 
> > 
> > 
> > http://www.stardustfabrics.com/html/112.htm
> 
> And it *can* be bought by the quarter-yard. Accessories rather than clothing,
> unless you're *very* small, of course.
> 
> (About £17.... hmm, if I could think of something to do with it, that *is*
> possible)
> 
> What do people make of the pattern? What period would that be right for?

No period other than the late 20th & early 21st centuries is my guess. :-) But
it's pretty, if I were slimmer I could go for a dress like the ones on the
page.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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From: kat@grendal.rain.com
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Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 08:11:09 -0800
Status: RO


> Stevie Gamble <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com> wrote :
> 
> > Hi all,
> > 
> > Well, one of you may have the pocket to pay $105 per yard:-) 
> > 
> > 
> > http://www.stardustfabrics.com/html/112.htm

I have some silk cut velvet very similar to this (only burgundy and 
different pattern) but it is important to look at the drape of the 
stuff on the ladies wearing dresses made from it. It is not a firmly 
woven fabric. It has a *lot* of drape. That means that you need to 
practically quilt it to a backing fabric to use for historic clothing 
prior to the 20th C.

The pattern is difficult to see since we have only a part of the 
overall pattern (grrrr) but it looks like one of the 16th C Italian 
asymmetricals. Depending on the actual size of the design it could be 
from between late 15th/early 16th C and late 16th/early 17th. (The 
smaller designs were more late.) So, it could be used (if stabilized) 
for early 16th C or late 16th/early 17th C in England, France, Spain, 
Italy, etc. (Anywhere they were using Italian brocades and velvets.)

For a similar velvet design see Colorplate 67 in _The Development of 
Italian Textile Design from the 12th to the 18th Century_ by Antonino 
Santangelo.

Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 100% Silk Cut Velvet
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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 10:23:10 -0600
Status: RO

One important thing to notice about this fabric is the fact that it's a
'burn-out sheer'. You'd definitely have to line it with something and
then you'd always be fighting against the sheerness. I'd say that for the
price (and esp. with the doubtful authenticity of the design anyway)
you'd be better off putting your money into something with less silk and
more substance. As far as I know, there are no clothing styles before the
20th century which would work with a part velvet/part sheer fabric.

Just my groats worth,

Karen

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In a message dated 11/5/2002 11:25:43 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
seamstrix@juno.com writes:


> As far as I know, there are no clothing styles before the
> 20th century which would work with a part velvet/part sheer fabric.
> 

Yes, even though the design seems Renn. inspired. And it is beautiful. 

I'd make a 30's evening gown out if it....with a shiny satin slip. Ooooo....

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 11/5/2002 11:25:43 AM Eastern Standard Time, seamstrix@juno.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">As far as I know, there are no clothing styles before the
<BR>20th century which would work with a part velvet/part sheer fabric.
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Yes, even though the design seems Renn. inspired. And it is beautiful. 
<BR>
<BR>I'd make a 30's evening gown out if it....with a shiny satin slip. Ooooo....</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late Renaissance Florence exhibit in Chicago
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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 11:48:24 -0600
Status: RO

Hey! If folks are coming to Chicago for  the exhibit, let me know! I'd
love to meet more folks from h-cost! Although I believe we've already
met, haven't we Connie?


Karen


On Tue, 5 Nov 2002 09:16:25 -0500 "Fairchild, Connie E."
<Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com> writes:
> To bring you an update, the local (Davenport, IA) paper had another 
> little
> write up about the exhibit on Sunday.  Just wanted you to know that 
> our
> friend, Eleanora of Toledo and her son , Giovanni (by Bronzino) will 
> be
> there. The article was accompanied by a nearly 3x5" very good, color 
> photo.
> I am so excited about getting an opportunity to see this painting!  
> The last
> time I was at the Art Institute (early 90's), they didn't allow 
> cameras;
> this time I will take a small one and ask again. I've a little 
> talent in art
> and sewing, but I can't draw doodles compared to this. It's humbling 
> just to
> see this work in a photo, it may be overload to see this and other 
> exquisite
> pieces "in person".  Good thing my daughter is going with me, she 
> can drag
> me out of the way so others can see the items.
> 
> Connie E. Fairchild 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 

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Thread-Topic: Source for Italian silks - 13th, 14th and 15th centuries
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From: "Colleen McDonald" <Colleen.McDonald@mackie.com>
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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 09:54:25 -0800
Status: RO

Hi all,

I just found a new source (okay - it may be old to some of you) on Italian silks in the 13th, 14th and 15th centuries.  

Italienische Seidengewebe des 13, 14 und 15 Jahrhunderts
by Brigitte Tietzel
copyright 1984, Koln, Deutsches Textilmuseum
Kataloge des Deutchses Textilmuseum, Krefeld Band 1.

First off, it is in German - but don't let that stop you.  It has pictures of 161 extant examples of Italian silks dating from the 13th, 14th and 15th centuries, as well as construction details such as the warp and weft counts and colors, commentary and measurements.  Only a few of the pictures are in color, but the black and whites aren't bad.

The copy that I borrowed via ILL was from the Smithsonian Libraries, so it was for in library use only.

I don't need this one for the current project (1350-1365 Florentine lady's outfit), but boy, I can tell it will come in handy for the future.

Best regards,

Colleen


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In a message dated 11/3/02 9:55:45 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
penny@costumegallery.com writes:


> We have three classes starting at the Costume Classroom
> www.costumeclassroom.com  this week:
> 
> ***Making an Elizabethan Lady's Wardrobe: Elizabethan Gown (this is made
> with Margo's pattern)
> ***A Victorian Lady: Make Your Own Bustle Era Skirt
> ***Costume Analysis of Four Films Set in 1912-1914
> 
> We still have open slots for students in each class.
> 
> Penny,

I realize this is kind of a stupid question, but do you list the classes on 
the website, or anyplace for that matter, a couple weeks before they start?  
I am always interested in taking classes, but find that they have generally 
already started.

Kit

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 11/3/02 9:55:45 PM Pacific Standard Time, penny@costumegallery.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">We have three classes starting at the Costume Classroom<BR>
www.costumeclassroom.com&nbsp; this week:<BR>
<BR>
***Making an Elizabethan Lady's Wardrobe: Elizabethan Gown (this is made<BR>
with Margo's pattern)<BR>
***A Victorian Lady: Make Your Own Bustle Era Skirt<BR>
***Costume Analysis of Four Films Set in 1912-1914<BR>
<BR>
We still have open slots for students in each class.<BR>
<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE>Penny,<BR>
<BR>
I realize this is kind of a stupid question, but do you list the classes on the website, or anyplace for that matter, a couple weeks before they start?&nbsp; I am always interested in taking classes, but find that they have generally already started.<BR>
<BR>
Kit</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 14:50:30 -0500
Status: RO

Are you in the Illinois Civil War Group?  Only by email then.  Are you going
on 11/20?

Connie E. Fairchild 
-----
Message: 4
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 11:48:24 -0600
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late Renaissance Florence exhibit in Chicago
From: seamstrix@juno.com
Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com

Hey! If folks are coming to Chicago for  the exhibit, let me know! I'd
love to meet more folks from h-cost! Although I believe we've already
met, haven't we Connie?


Karen


On Tue, 5 Nov 2002 09:16:25 -0500 "Fairchild, Connie E."
<Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com> writes:
> To bring you an update, the local (Davenport, IA) paper had another 
> little
> write up about the exhibit on Sunday.  Just wanted you to know that 
> our
> friend, Eleanora of Toledo and her son , Giovanni (by Bronzino) will 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 100% Silk Cut Velvet
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In a message dated 11/5/02 5:02:47 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
stevie.gamble@btinternet.com writes:


> Hi all,
> 
> Well, one of you may have the pocket to pay $105 per yard:-) 
> 
> 
> http://www.stardustfabrics.com/html/112.htm
> 

I immediately though about whether I could remove the sheer from the pattern. 
 (Think peirce-work or filigree for metal) It would make great applique.  Of 
course, the pattern doesn't seem to be correct, but I just thought I would 
tell you want I thought of.

Kit

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 11/5/02 5:02:47 AM Pacific Standard Time, stevie.gamble@btinternet.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Hi all,<BR>
<BR>
Well, one of you may have the pocket to pay $105 per yard:-) <BR>
<BR>
<BR>
http://www.stardustfabrics.com/html/112.htm<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
I immediately though about whether I could remove the sheer from the pattern.&nbsp; (Think peirce-work or filigree for metal) It would make great applique.&nbsp; Of course, the pattern doesn't seem to be correct, but I just thought I would tell you want I thought of.<BR>
<BR>
Kit</FONT></HTML>

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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Early Efforts, was: prizewinning victorian
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Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 20:34:39 +0000
Status: RO

Margo wrote:

>1977:  "Elizabethan Court Dress", pale yellow lightweight satin, with black
>velvet accents and gold sequin embellished braid.  Heavily darted bodice
>worn over 50's Merry Widow, becasue I'd read that they wore corsets.  >18th century style ladder of bows up the front of the bodice, further
>embellished with swags of gold chain and filligree bits.  Huge mahoitered
>sleeves, with the upper puffs smocked with gold beads, and the lower
>portions fastened with zippers. Back of the bodice fastened with hooks >and eyes, and had ribbons tacked on in a crisscross pattern to make it >look like it laced! Forepart of black velvet latticed with cotton lace that I
>spray painted gold, and rossettes of those plastic faceted beads that
>crafter grandmas use.  

>At first I wore this with no petticoats at all, for fear of looking fat.
>Later I figured out I should have a hoop, and made one out of wire that
>buckled and flooped into weird parabola shapes when I wore it.  >"Standing" ruff of black lace, that wouldn't stand, so it flopped down my >back.  Small gold framed mirror and gold filligree purse, hung from the waist >on chains. Black ballet slippers and sheer black pantyhose.  50's black >velvet hat with ostrich plume attched with big gaudy pin. 

>I got better.

What a wonderful image, Margo!

My two penn'orth; (male) "Cavalier" outfit, circa 1970 -
Nylon lace-trimmed blouse with the lace transferred from the front to the edges of a wide collar and to my boot-tops. Polyester jacket trimmed with black-and-gold braid. Modern stretch trousers and fashion boots, which already had imitation spur-leathers, topped with the aforementioned lace. Polyester sash, and a beige felt hat of an approximately suitable shape.

Those Victorian illustrators of "Cavaliers and Roundheads" had a lot to answer for. It took a while for people to realise that Royalist private soldiers would not have worn lace, braid or sashes.





Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <127.198b1c4d.2af1c25d@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th. century dress supports.
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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 21:45:20 +0100
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Dear Albertcat.
I quite forgot to reply you for the wonderfull pictures you sended me =
with the collapsible hip paniers.
They were beautifully made, i enjoyed them very much.
May i ask you if you used doubble casings with hoop wire?
Or is it only the striped fabric that tricked my eyes?
I think it would be a very good idea to make doubble layers of crinoline =
steels in the hoops, i dont mean 2 steels in each slit, but paralel =
slits.
The dress you draped over was very beautifull two.
thanks for sending me the pictures.

Bjarne
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: AlbertCat@aol.com=20
  To: h-costume@indra.com=20
  Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2002 12:16 AM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th. century dress supports.


  In a message dated 10/30/2002 12:10:29 PM Eastern Standard Time, =
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:=20



    In Dangerous Liasions, Glen Close is wearing such a collapsible =
panier=20
    frame, so i think it is autentic to use it.=20



  Having worked with James Acheson, the designer of "DL", on "Last of =
the Mohicans", the cage version of panniers is probably supported by =
research. He made us show him some kind of research for any garments we =
made on "Mohicans".=20

  Later, I made up a pair in a cage version but just used the dimensions =
found in the pair in Waugh's Corsets and Crinolines. They work better if =
you use narrow tapes. I used 3 double rows of commercial hoop wire =
encased in striped linen and 1/2" twill tape [but I'd use narrower if I =
were you]. I cut the hoop casings long...leaving unhooped sections a =
both ends with the wires centered in each. Then, while flat, I pinned =
the tapes to them, one in the middle [use this as your fixed starting =
point with the hoops at a right angle to the tape], one at each end of =
the hoops [they get shorter as you go up y'know], and one in-between =
these, at what looked like the correct angles. Then I put a 3/4" =
grosgrain tape on the dummy's waist and pinned the tapes in place. Then =
bring the ends of the casings around so the hoops bow out and pin in =
place. You can then adjust the lengths and angles of the tapes, even =
them up [so they're the same on both sides], take the grosgrain off the =
waist ! and sew it all up. TAH DAH!=20

  Mine close with a buckle CF and I made a small sausage pad that I =
tacked to the back between the 2 side hoops.=20

  Have fun!=20

------=_NextPart_000_0023_01C28514.A35E94C0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2719.2200" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Dear Albertcat.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I quite forgot to reply you for the =
wonderfull=20
pictures you sended me with the collapsible hip paniers.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>They were beautifully made, i enjoyed =
them very=20
much.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>May i ask you if you used doubble =
casings with hoop=20
wire?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Or is it only the striped fabric that =
tricked my=20
eyes?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I think it would be a very good idea to =
make=20
doubble layers of crinoline steels in the hoops, i dont mean 2 steels in =
each=20
slit, but paralel slits.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The dress you draped over was very =
beautifull=20
two.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>thanks for sending me the =
pictures.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Bjarne</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3DAlbertCat@aol.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:AlbertCat@aol.com">AlbertCat@aol.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dh-costume@indra.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, October 31, =
2002 12:16=20
  AM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [h-cost] 18th. =
century dress=20
  supports.</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT size=3D3>In a =
message dated=20
  10/30/2002 12:10:29 PM Eastern Standard Time, <A=20
  href=3D"mailto:drewscph@post12.tele.dk">drewscph@post12.tele.dk</A> =
writes:=20
  <BR><BR></FONT><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size=3D2=20
  FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><BR>
  <BLOCKQUOTE=20
  style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px =
solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"=20
  TYPE=3D"CITE">In Dangerous Liasions, Glen Close is wearing such a =
collapsible=20
    panier <BR>frame, so i think it is autentic to use it. =
<BR></FONT><FONT=20
    lang=3D0 face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size=3D3=20
  FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"></BLOCKQUOTE><BR><BR>Having worked with James =
Acheson, the=20
  designer of "DL", on "Last of the Mohicans", the cage version of =
panniers is=20
  probably supported by research. He made us show him some kind of =
research for=20
  any garments we made on "Mohicans". <BR><BR>Later, I made up a pair in =
a cage=20
  version but just used the dimensions found in the pair in Waugh's =
Corsets and=20
  Crinolines. They work better if you use narrow tapes. I used 3 double =
rows of=20
  commercial hoop wire encased in striped linen and 1/2" twill tape [but =
I'd use=20
  narrower if I were you]. I cut the hoop casings long...leaving =
unhooped=20
  sections a both ends with the wires centered in each. Then, while =
flat, I=20
  pinned the tapes to them, one in the middle [use this as your fixed =
starting=20
  point with the hoops at a right angle to the tape], one at each end of =
the=20
  hoops [they get shorter as you go up y'know], and one in-between =
these, at=20
  what looked like the correct angles. Then I put a 3/4" grosgrain tape =
on the=20
  dummy's waist and pinned the tapes in place. Then bring the ends of =
the=20
  casings around so the hoops bow out and pin in place. You can then =
adjust the=20
  lengths and angles of the tapes, even them up [so they're the same on =
both=20
  sides], take the grosgrain off the waist ! and sew it all up. TAH DAH! =

  <BR><BR>Mine close with a buckle CF and I made a small sausage pad =
that I=20
  tacked to the back between the 2 side hoops. <BR><BR>Have fun!</FONT>=20
</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0023_01C28514.A35E94C0--


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:prizewinner for "Historical accuracy and originality
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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 13:41:30 -0800
Status: RO

Maybe the original design called for actual gourds?  They would have gone
with the black & yellow color scheme.  Kinda squishy when ya sit down,
but....

Not my cup o' tea, that dress.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
Theatrical Costume Design
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
"O, what a world of vile ill-favored faults
 looks handsome in three hundred pounds a year!..."
W. Shakespeare

----- Original Message -----
From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 04, 2002 9:36 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:prizewinner for "Historical accuracy and
originality


>
> >Come to think of it, a few well-placed squashes would stop the skirts
> >blowing up in a strong wind...
>
> Thrown?  Oops - I'm being mean.
>
> > > What got me the most were the "gourds" in the skirt.  Call me nutty,
but
> >if
> > > one is going to bandy about dressmaking terms, one should endeavor to
> >spell
> > > them in the vicinity of correctly.
> > >
> > > Elizabeth
> > > http://www.elizabethstewartclark.com
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> Kayta
>
>     //// \\\
>    ////-@@\\\
>   ((((   7 )))
>    (((  <> ))))
>       )   ((((((
> /----\   /---\))
>
> _______________________________________________
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>


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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 15:55:11 -0600
Status: RO

Ah, we are e-pals only then. I will be in full Elizabethan garb dancing
there on the 19th. 

Karen



On Tue, 5 Nov 2002 14:50:30 -0500 "Fairchild, Connie E."
<Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com> writes:
> Are you in the Illinois Civil War Group?  Only by email then.  Are 
> you going
> on 11/20?
> 
> Connie E. Fairchild 

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In a message dated 11/5/2002 3:51:28 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:


> May i ask you if you used doubble casings with hoop wire?
> 

Yes [how does one say "yes" in....what's your 1st language, Danish?]

I'm not sure exactly why. I can't remember. It may be just to show off the 
striped fabric more.

I did not make the dress [which is beautiful]. It was made by a friend of 
mine who is now deceased, Michael Nations. It was a little project he did for 
his own education. He followed a Janet Arnold pattern as closely as possible 
and all top stitching and hemming is done by hand. The gown is cut from 
scraps left over from a mockup made for Madeline Stowe's fancy yellow silk 
dress she's 1st seen in in "Last of the Mohicans". Annie Hadley, the shop 
super, liked to have mock ups made in a fabric instead of muslin. That meant 
that an extra could wear the mock up in the film. Michael carefully and 
cleverly cut his dress from the scraps. As a result there is no hem or seam 
allowances to let out [everything is faced with linen], the skirts are set 
onto the bodice in a wider gap than in the pattern and the skirt is 
skimpy....only a little over a yard and a half.
We dressed a dark black girl in it [sans panniers] with the same petticoat, a 
chemise and a turbin-like head rag for her role as a colonial slave is some 
play the local theatre was doing. She looked GREAT! Her dark skin next to the 
pale fabrics and the elegant but skimpy cut all came together to work really 
well. A great character costume.

I suppose the list doesn't know what we're talking about. I've deleted the 
ZIP file [by accident] I sent you. You can send it out to anyone you want. 
I've still got all the photo's I took and could zip up the best ones again I 
guess. Too bad I can't just send an attachment to the list.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 11/5/2002 3:51:28 PM Eastern Standard Time, drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">May i ask you if you used doubble casings with hoop wire?
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR>Yes [how does one say "yes" in....what's your 1st language, Danish?]
<BR>
<BR>I'm not sure exactly why. I can't remember. It may be just to show off the striped fabric more.
<BR>
<BR>I did not make the dress [which is beautiful]. It was made by a friend of mine who is now deceased, Michael Nations. It was a little project he did for his own education. He followed a Janet Arnold pattern as closely as possible and all top stitching and hemming is done by hand. The gown is cut from scraps left over from a mockup made for Madeline Stowe's fancy yellow silk dress she's 1st seen in in "Last of the Mohicans". Annie Hadley, the shop super, liked to have mock ups made in a fabric instead of muslin. That meant that an extra could wear the mock up in the film. Michael carefully and cleverly cut his dress from the scraps. As a result there is no hem or seam allowances to let out [everything is faced with linen], the skirts are set onto the bodice in a wider gap than in the pattern and the skirt is skimpy....only a little over a yard and a half.
<BR>We dressed a dark black girl in it [sans panniers] with the same petticoat, a chemise and a turbin-like head rag for her role as a colonial slave is some play the local theatre was doing. She looked GREAT! Her dark skin next to the pale fabrics and the elegant but skimpy cut all came together to work really well. A great character costume.
<BR>
<BR>I suppose the list doesn't know what we're talking about. I've deleted the ZIP file [by accident] I sent you. You can send it out to anyone you want. I've still got all the photo's I took and could zip up the best ones again I guess. Too bad I can't just send an attachment to the list.</FONT></HTML>

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References: <5.1.0.14.0.20021105084505.00b0a970@mail.earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern help
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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 17:59:21 -0500
Status: RO

The illustrations on the envelopes may  be from La Mode, but the pattern
shapes have been greatly modified to reflect modern shape and construction.
The first one omits the fitted inner construction that is needed for the
pouf drape that is usually found in the mode of that time.  Also, in a
previous comment , I stated that this blouse opened on the right; I meant
the LEFT.  I am direction challenged.  Kathleen
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brenda Bell" <webwarren@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 8:53 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern help


> At 09:45 PM 11/4/2002 -0700, Karen responded to Barbara's request for
help:
>
>
>
>
>
>>http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.3417=x&TI=1
0013&pageNum=1&M=&UK=20315132
>
>
> >Those two patterns are actually very good for late 1890's, say about
1897/98.
> >They are designs from "La Mode Illustree' from 1897. Whoever designed
> >them lifted them almost perfectly from the illustrations.
>
> I purchased the blouse pattern a couple of months ago because I liked the
> look, not too worried about how accurate it would be for what time (I was
> considering adapting it for mundane use <g>). I have it currently cut out
> of a lightweight black wool (sold to me as a challis, but really more of a
> crepe) but have not yet sewn it up.
>
> One thing I noted about the pattern is that the puff on the upper sleeve
is
> done by an undersleeve lining (I think Butterick calls it a "stay")...
> which means that if your fabric isn't crisp, the puff will droop -- and it
> will be a problem to iron.
>
> At the "Extreme Beauty" exhibit (and in the catalog), I saw a number of
> boned "sleeve stays" that tied to the corset cover/chemisette/camisole
> (depending on the era?), and I'm looking towards the idea of using sleeve
> stays instead of the indicated, umm, lining. While I'm not concerned about
> authenticity for a blouse I intend to wear primarily mundanely, I'm
> wondering what would have been the accurate period construction?
>
>
> Brenda
> webwarren@earthlink.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 100% Silk Cut Velvet
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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 17:03:11 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO

On Tue, 5 Nov 2002 seamstrix@juno.com wrote:

> One important thing to notice about this fabric is the fact that it's a
> 'burn-out sheer'.

And as such, it is *NOT* 100% silk.  disclaimer: I could be wrong, the
words "burn-out" do not appear on the page, and it could be a woven
voided velvet. However, it looks and sounds like a burn-out velvet, in
which case it *must* be a blend, silk and rayon being most common.  The
chemicals used for burn-out can't distinguish between pile and ground
unless they are different fibers.

On the other hand, this is a truely lovely fabric, and could well be worth
the $105 they're asking per yard.  It's just (probably) not 100% silk.


Emma
I've done burn-out. It's smelly, but fun.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 100% Silk Cut Velvet
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Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 10:17:24 +1100 (EST)
Status: RO

 --- Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
wrote: > On Tue, 5 Nov 2002 seamstrix@juno.com wrote:
> 
> > One important thing to notice about this fabric is
> the fact that it's a
> > 'burn-out sheer'.
> 
> And as such, it is *NOT* 100% silk.  disclaimer: I
> could be wrong, the
> words "burn-out" do not appear on the page, and it
> could be a woven
> voided velvet.

It definitely says "sheer background", so you are
right. It's not a woven voided velvet, it's not cut
velvet either - it's a figured velvet with voided
areas - either a chiffon velvet or a devore velvet,
judging from the description in "Velvet: History
techniques fashions". Devore velvet sounds like what
we modernly call "burn-out".

> However, it looks and sounds like a
> burn-out velvet, in
> which case it *must* be a blend, silk and rayon
> being most common.  The
> chemicals used for burn-out can't distinguish
> between pile and ground
> unless they are different fibers.

So it would be made with a ground fibre of silk and
synthetic pile?

 
Bella

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From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 100% Silk Cut Velvet
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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 23:41:57 -0000
Status: RO

Emma wrote:

> And as such, it is *NOT* 100% silk.  disclaimer: I could be wrong,
the
> words "burn-out" do not appear on the page, and it could be a woven
> voided velvet. However, it looks and sounds like a burn-out velvet,
in
> which case it *must* be a blend, silk and rayon being most common.
The
> chemicals used for burn-out can't distinguish between pile and
ground
> unless they are different fibers.


Actually, I think it looks like a 100% silk  velvet; not a burnout.
Thanks to the kind h-coster who pointed me to Paron Fabrics in New
York this summer I got my hands on some, at considerably less than
$105 per yard, and whilst contemporary 100% silk voided velvets don't
look like Renaissance velvets they don't look like burn out either.
Which is why I drew the attention of h-costers to this fabric.
Now my silk  velvet is black ground with leaves of a vast number of
shades scattered across it; the colours sing. I doubt that I will ever
bring myself to take a pair of scissors to it, though suggestions of
an appropriate pattern and period would be most welcome.

best wishes
Stevie

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From: "Janet  Davis" <castle@erie.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Source for Italian silks - 13th, 14th and 15th centuries
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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 18:41:14 -0500
Status: RO

> Italienische Seidengewebe des 13, 14 und 15 Jahrhunderts
> by Brigitte Tietzel

Could you post the ISBN?  That would be the easiest way to track it down,
especially since the title is in a foreign language (I have enough trouble
spelling English).

Janet

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From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 100% Silk Cut Velvet
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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 18:38:09 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


> It definitely says "sheer background", so you are
> right. It's not a woven voided velvet, it's not cut
> velvet either - it's a figured velvet with voided
> areas - either a chiffon velvet or a devore velvet,
> judging from the description in "Velvet: History
> techniques fashions". Devore velvet sounds like what
> we modernly call "burn-out".

Yes, devore and burn-out are the same thing. I just couldn't remember how
to spell devore.  I think it's *possible* to weave a velvet with a chiffon
ground....(stumbles to a halt) No, never mind, I don't think it is.

> So it would be made with a ground fibre of silk and
> synthetic pile?

Yes, if we're calling Rayon synthetic.  In this case, the ground is a
protein fiber and the pile is a cellulosic fiber.  Protein fibers are
dissolved by strong bases, and cellulosics by strong acids.  You could do
devore with a rayon ground and a silk pile, using a strong base as your
burn-out chemical, but that would be silly: rayon is a relatively weak
fiber and your fabric would be likely to fall apart.

You could also do burn-out with a nonreactive synthetic as the ground, or
a dissolvable synthetic (like acetate) for the pile.

I've found a rayon/acetate changable taffeta that I'm curious to try.
Some areas would have the red warp only, some the green weft only.  Some
areas would have no fabric left at all.  It could be fun.

Emma

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From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 100% Silk Cut Velvet
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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 18:44:49 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


> Actually, I think it looks like a 100% silk  velvet; not a burnout.
> Thanks to the kind h-coster who pointed me to Paron Fabrics in New
> York this summer I got my hands on some, at considerably less than
> $105 per yard, and whilst contemporary 100% silk voided velvets don't
> look like Renaissance velvets they don't look like burn out either.
> Which is why I drew the attention of h-costers to this fabric.
> Now my silk  velvet is black ground with leaves of a vast number of
> shades scattered across it; the colours sing. I doubt that I will ever
> bring myself to take a pair of scissors to it, though suggestions of
> an appropriate pattern and period would be most welcome.

I wish I could see your velvet!  My understanding of velvet weaves makes a
sheer ground unlikely, but this would not be the first time I was wrong!

Emma

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Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 17:49:48 -0700
Status: RO

*blink, blink*
For _you_ to wear, Albert, or just to make? I think it'd make a great
"slinky" dress--that way, you could work _with_ the drape, and not
against it....
--sue
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Early Efforts, was: prizewinning victorian
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Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 17:53:38 -0700
Status: RO

Really? Was the fancy stuff more of an officer thang?
--Sue, pretty ignorant of English Civil War Stuff....

Kate M Bunting wrote:
> 
> Those Victorian illustrators of "Cavaliers and Roundheads" had a lot to answer for. It took a while for people to realise that Royalist private soldiers would not have worn lace, braid or sashes.
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From: AlbertCat@aol.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 100% Silk Cut Velvet
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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 19:58:23 EST
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In a message dated 11/5/2002 7:50:15 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
mooncat@in-tch.com writes:


> *blink, blink*
> For _you_ to wear, Albert, or just to make? I think it'd make a great
> "slinky" dress--that way, you could work _with_ the drape, and not
> against it....
> 

With a bias swag over my beer gut.....

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 11/5/2002 7:50:15 PM Eastern Standard Time, mooncat@in-tch.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">*blink, blink*
<BR>For _you_ to wear, Albert, or just to make? I think it'd make a great
<BR>"slinky" dress--that way, you could work _with_ the drape, and not
<BR>against it....
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>With a bias swag over my beer gut.....</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 100% Silk Cut Velvet
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Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 17:59:50 -0700
Status: RO

The actual, pre-1600s cut-and-voided velvet I saw last year (up close
and personal--it was unbelievably hard *not to touch!!*) had a couple of
different "backgrounds," neither of which was sheer.  ISTR, one had a
definite "satin" background, and the other, a plainer weave (maybe
tabby--I'd have to hunt down my notes).  They were beautiful, and
nothing much like the piece we're discussing in this thread (which is
lovely on its own, but pretty modern to my eyes--even if Ren.-inspired).
--sue

Emma Elizabeth Lehman wrote:
> 
> > Actually, I think it looks like a 100% silk  velvet; not a burnout.
> > Thanks to the kind h-coster who pointed me to Paron Fabrics in New
> > York this summer I got my hands on some, at considerably less than
> > $105 per yard, and whilst contemporary 100% silk voided velvets don't
> > look like Renaissance velvets they don't look like burn out either.
> > Which is why I drew the attention of h-costers to this fabric.
> > Now my silk  velvet is black ground with leaves of a vast number of
> > shades scattered across it; the colours sing. I doubt that I will ever
> > bring myself to take a pair of scissors to it, though suggestions of
> > an appropriate pattern and period would be most welcome.
> 
> I wish I could see your velvet!  My understanding of velvet weaves makes a
> sheer ground unlikely, but this would not be the first time I was wrong!
> 
> Emma
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Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 17:12:51 -0800
Status: RO

From:           	AlbertCat@aol.com
> Yes, even though the design seems Renn. inspired. And it is beautiful.
> 
> 
> I'd make a 30's evening gown out if it....with a shiny satin slip.
> Ooooo....

IMHO this is *exactly* what this fabric was designed for. ;)

Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Bella?= <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
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Subject: [h-cost] Chiffon Velvet (was 100% Silk Cut Velvet)
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Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 12:34:58 +1100 (EST)
Status: RO

 --- Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
wrote: <snipped> I think it's *possible* to weave a
> velvet with a chiffon
> ground....(stumbles to a halt) No, never mind, I
> don't think it is.<snip>


This is what I have on chiffon velvet....

"Chiffon velvet,

The weaving of velvet on a crepe de chine ground dates
from the turn of the nineteenth century, but it was
not widely used, until a system was invented at the
end of that century for using raw yarn in the weaving,
leading to the creation of a geat many new types of
crepe fabrics. Crepes and velvets on a crepes ground
could be solid or figured, and in some cases printed
with patterns. Incredibly light and soft, these were
woven from the Twenties on with artificial fibres as
well."

I was a little confused by the interchanging of crepe
and chiffon, until I found this:

"Hard twist silk yarns can be used to make ‘crêpe
chiffon’, with a characteristic crinkled surface
appearance. The term chiffon is also used as a prefix
to other fabric names to indicate very lightweight
versions of these fabrics, e.g. chiffon velvet,
chif-fon taffeta, etc."

The Resil Textile dictionary (where the above info on
crepe chiffon comes from) defines chiffon velvet as
"Very light, soft velvet fabric with little substance
to it. It is floaty and effective but very difficult
to sew. It has a short cut pile."




Bella


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nov. Online Costume Classes
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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 21:26:00 -0500
Status: RO

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------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C28511.EFB12F20
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Kit,

The classes on listed on the schedule months in advance.  I also send
reminders to people on my website newsletter email list.  You can join the
newsletter at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/costumegallery/

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Kitsune242@aol.com
  To: h-costume@indra.com
  Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 2:28 PM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nov. Online Costume Classes


  In a message dated 11/3/02 9:55:45 PM Pacific Standard Time,
penny@costumegallery.com writes:



    We have three classes starting at the Costume Classroom
    www.costumeclassroom.com  this week:

    ***Making an Elizabethan Lady's Wardrobe: Elizabethan Gown (this is made
    with Margo's pattern)
    ***A Victorian Lady: Make Your Own Bustle Era Skirt
    ***Costume Analysis of Four Films Set in 1912-1914

    We still have open slots for students in each class.


  Penny,

  I realize this is kind of a stupid question, but do you list the classes
on the website, or anyplace for that matter, a couple weeks before they
start?  I am always interested in taking classes, but find that they have
generally already started.

  Kit

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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>Kit,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>The classes on listed on the schedule months in advance.&nbsp; I =
also send=20
reminders to people on my website newsletter email list.&nbsp; You can =
join the=20
newsletter at </DIV>
<DIV><A=20
href=3D"http://groups.yahoo.com/group/costumegallery/">http://groups.yaho=
o.com/group/costumegallery/</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Penny Ladnier<BR>Owner, The Costume Gallery &amp; Costume =
Classroom<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.costumegallery.com">http://www.costumegallery.com</A> =
<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.costumeclassroom.com">http://www.costumeclassroom.com<=
/A><BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.onlinecostumeball.com">http://www.onlinecostumeball.co=
m</A></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3DKitsune242@aol.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:Kitsune242@aol.com">Kitsune242@aol.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dh-costume@indra.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, November 05, =
2002 2:28=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [h-cost] Nov. =
Online Costume=20
  Classes</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 =
face=3DArial size=3D2=20
  FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">In a message dated 11/3/02 9:55:45 PM Pacific =
Standard=20
  Time, <A =
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  style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px =
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  TYPE=3D"CITE">We have three classes starting at the Costume =
Classroom<BR><A=20
    =
href=3D"http://www.costumeclassroom.com">www.costumeclassroom.com</A>&nbs=
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    this week:<BR><BR>***Making an Elizabethan Lady's Wardrobe: =
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Early Efforts, was: prizewinning victorian
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Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 09:18:47 +0000
Status: RO

a) It's a myth that you could instantly tell which side a person was on by their clothing. A few wealthier Puritans dressed plainly on principle, but most people of both persuasions dressed as elegantly as they could afford to do. The traditional image of the Parliamentarian trooper in buffcoat, breastplate and lobster-tail helmet is approximately what the cavalry of *both* sides wore in battle; the broad-brimmed hats would be worn off duty.

b) Lace (being hand-made) and sashes (being silk) were too expensive for the common soldier.



Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> mooncat@in-tch.com 11/06/02 12:53am >>>
Really? Was the fancy stuff more of an officer thang?
--Sue, pretty ignorant of English Civil War Stuff....

Kate M Bunting wrote:
> 
> Those Victorian illustrators of "Cavaliers and Roundheads" had a lot to answer for. It took a while for people to realise that Royalist private soldiers would not have worn lace, braid or sashes.
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From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] period embroidery
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Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 07:53:20 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

On Tue, 5 Nov 2002, Lee Thompson-Herbert wrote:

>Kayta wrote:
>> >Finally a 1896 blouse with
>> >those lovely huge sleeves.  What would they have used
>> >for sleeve supports I wonder?

To save a bit on ironing a cotton or linen 1890's puffed sleeve blouse I
try and hang it dry with a balloon in the sleeve, flattening the gathers
over it.  It works pretty well.  I sometimes have a hard time blowing
the balloon up big enough for my really large sleeved blouse.

Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chiffon Velvet (was 100% Silk Cut Velvet)
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Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 14:09:10 -0000
Status: RO

Bella wrote:


>The Resil Textile dictionary (where the above info on
>crepe chiffon comes from) defines chiffon velvet as
>"Very light, soft velvet fabric with little substance
>to it. It is floaty and effective but very difficult
>to sew. It has a short cut pile."


Yes, indeed; it is so fine that the velvet is almost sheer. Paron
fabrics had some of that also, and very lovely it was too, but by that
point I'd exhausted all available funds. If I'd bought that, I would
have had to swim home:-)

best wishes

Stevie

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Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 07:14:34 -0800
Status: RO

> Italienische Seidengewebe des 13, 14 und 15 Jahrhunderts
> by Brigitte Tietzel

<<Could you post the ISBN?  That would be the easiest way to track it down,
especially since the title is in a foreign language (I have enough trouble
spelling English).>>

Sorry, Janet, there wasn't one in the book - I looked.

I actually was able to find a copy on www.bookfinder.com for about $35 US, but that's gone now and on its way to my house. ;-)

Best regards,

Colleen

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: 1890's sleeves
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Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 09:45:18 -0800
Status: RO

I came across these 1830's sleeve pads on the Kyoto Costume Institute's
webpage -- I think these would be similar to what might be worn in the
1890's.

http://www.kci.or.jp/cgi-bin/collection.cgi?lang=e&path=1820/09-009455_a

- Kendra

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Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 14:18:59 EST
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In a message dated 11/6/2002 12:47:26 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
kendrav@attbi.com writes:


> I came across these 1830's sleeve pads on the Kyoto Costume Institute's
> webpage -- I think these would be similar to what might be worn in the
> 1890's.
> 

Though let us not forget that 1890s gigot sleeve goes UP, they fly up from a 
natural shoulder. 1830s gigot sleeves pouf out low on the shoulder. The 
emphasis is horizontal.

But, yes, the same general contraptions for keeping the sleeves of both 
periods either up or out are used.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 11/6/2002 12:47:26 PM Eastern Standard Time, kendrav@attbi.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I came across these 1830's sleeve pads on the Kyoto Costume Institute's
<BR>webpage -- I think these would be similar to what might be worn in the
<BR>1890's.
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Though let us not forget that 1890s gigot sleeve goes UP, they fly up from a natural shoulder. 1830s gigot sleeves pouf out low on the shoulder. The emphasis is horizontal.
<BR>
<BR>But, yes, the same general contraptions for keeping the sleeves of both periods either up or out are used.</FONT></HTML>

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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: [h-cost] Hair control, was Re: forehead cloths
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Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 20:10:16 +0000
Status: RO

I don't have a fringe, but I certainly recommend the use of some kind of 
scarf or undercap for any headcovering.  It keeps your hair under 
control, and it also provides a solid base to keep the upper layers 
under control, since you can pin into it.  Appropriate format depends on 
your period, and whether any of it will show.  I have friends who use 
sprang hairnets or linen coifs - I prefer a scarf, since it's adjustable 
whether I have my hair down in braids or up in a bun.

Jean


Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote
>The embroidered forehead cloths shown in 
>http://costume.dm.net/headwear/coifpics.html appear to be a single 
>triangular piece rather than a folded square; though the long edge 
>would still be on the bias.
>Speaking as one with a strong, thick fringe (bangs) which it's 
>difficult to keep out of the way when in costume, Gail's suggestion 
>sounds worth trying.
>
>
>Kate Bunting
>Library, University of Derby
>
>>>> gailscott@eos.net 11/03/02 02:56pm >>>
>
>But this is what I do. I have a square of white linen that I fold in half on
>the cross, with two strips of flat lacing on the corners. I pull my hair
>back (I have bangs, and they are so hard to control) and put this on like a
>scarf, with the long fold on the bias covering the upper part of my
>forehead. I take the laces OVER my head, about the top of my head, and tie
>them back at my neck. Then I wear coifs or other headgear on top.
>
>
>
>
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Forehead cloth/cross clothes
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Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 20:24:08 +0000
Status: RO

On the basis of 5 minutes looking... We seem to have 3 headcovering 
items here.  There is the wired coif (earpieces just showing), the tight 
forehead cloth, and the loose hood-type item which fastens (or not, in 
the case of VISIT_METSU) around the neck.  I have a book of Allan Ramsay 
portraits which show a number of ladies, always at their best, in either 
a wired coif or the loose hood, but both showing hair under them.   Both 
the old and the sick are expected to need to keep warm and keep their 
heads well-wrapped - perhaps that is the function of the tight forehead 
cloth, and it is combined as appropriate with the fashion headcovering?

Just an instant thought

Jean


N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote
>Actually, I think there is a mix-up in understanding of forehead cloths. What
>bridget Holmes is wearing
>http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/r/riley/holmes.jpg
>is not what reconvalescent/ill/lying-in women are wearing. I thought so too at
>first but then I discovered that there are differences.
>Look at the difference, here an old woman in 1660-65:
>http://arts-humanities.cant.ac.uk/temp/focus/1660-65_OLDWOMAN_DOU.JPG
>she is wearing what Bridget Holmes is wearing, and here another in the 1660s:
>http://arts-humanities.cant.ac.uk/temp/focus/NIDDY-NODDY_DOU.JPG
>Here a sick woman in 1660-70:
>http://arts-humanities.cant.ac.uk/temp/focus/1660-70_ANAEMIC-LADY_HOOGST
>RAATEN.JPG
>and another
>http://arts-humanities.cant.ac.uk/temp/focus/1660-67_VISIT_METSU.JPG
>
>I do think that there is a difference, and it strikes me that the sick always
>wear the very tight forehead cloth with something loose over it, as if it were
>an addition, while the old women are wearing a cloth tied over their normal
>'clip-on coif' (as i call the wired ones) to do exactly what Joy described, to
>protect and be useful.
>That's my tupennce and a half after studying the period 1660-1715 for years.
>
>Nicole
>
> --- Joy Shillaker <joyshillaker@hotmail.com> wrote: >
>> http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/index1.html
>>
>> look at the painting of Bridgette Holmes by John Riley. She was famous for
>> being 90 years old. She appears to be wearing a forehead cloth.A nice
>> example of someone wearing clothes from when they were younger.
>>
>> Jan Steen 'celebrating the birth' shows a woman who has just delivered
>> wearing a forehead cloth and in the same painting there is a woman who
>> appears to be pregnant wearing a forehead cloth under a linen chaperone(I
>> think that's what it's called)
>>
>> I have a little web gallery of paintings showing forehead cloths, but I
>> can't work out how to put it on line. I'll get my partner to do it.
>>
>> The three examples of forehead cloths I have examined dating from early to
>> late 17th century are made from squares of linen folded in half to make a
>> triangle with tape sewn at either end of the front. Two were plain and one
>> had  tiny embroidered picots work along the forehead edge.
>> On the embroidered cloth the weft count was approx 120 to the inch (between
>> 115- 122 because of the slubs in the threads)I could only see the sewing
>> stitches with my linen checker, there were over 30 to the inch and the
>> sewing thread appeared to be roughly half as thick as the fabric threads. I
>> asked someone with 20/20 vision to see if they could see the stitches with
>> the naked eye. They couldn't, this kind of work may have been sewn by feel.
>>
>> In 'The Baby in the Bush' Anne Buck, a foundling baby, late 17th is
>> described as having a cross cloth pinned over the face.
>>
>> I wear my forehead cloth with the long striaght edge just below my hair
>> line, tied at the back of the neck the cloth covering my ears this keeps my
>> ears warm and cosy. My coif then goes over the top. The added bonus is that
>> I don't get coif slippage. When cooking over an open fire the cloth prevents
>> sweat running into my eyes. The folded edge fits neatly on the forehead
>> because it's on the bias.
>>
>> Few forehead cloths are seen in pictures, so far I've noticed babies wearing
>> them,(to protect the fontanelle I've heard) pregnant and nursing mothers, a
>> servant and women who are in bed ill. My feeling is that they are very much
>> a utility item, and possibly only worn at home perhaps some kind of early
>> modern sweatband?
>>
>> I've been working on a set of C17th baby cloths for a few months now  and
>> hope to get the pictures comleted soon. The clothes are copies of items from
>> Bath Museum of Costume.
>>
>> regards
>> Joy
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _________________________________________________________________
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>=====
>Nicole Kipar M.A.
>URL: http://www.kipar.org/
>Email: nicole@kipar.org
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Fripper's and second hand garb
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I have a question for those people in the U.S. particularly (or anyone else) 
who have been doing Ren Faires for awhile.  What happens to all the old garb 
that people get tired of?  Does period clothing circulate and/or get resold?  
Has anyone ever gone to a Ren Faire as a Fripper, a dealer in second hand 
goods as their gig?  Is there any sort of on-line list dealing in the 
exchange of old renaissance costumes?  Apart from E-bay I mean.  Do you think 
there would be any interest in such a list?  

Just curious,

Lisa

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I have a question for those people in the U.S. particularly (or anyone else) who have been doing Ren Faires for awhile.&nbsp; What happens to all the old garb that people get tired of?&nbsp; Does period clothing circulate and/or get resold?&nbsp; Has anyone ever gone to a Ren Faire as a Fripper, a dealer in second hand goods as their gig?&nbsp; Is there any sort of on-line list dealing in the exchange of old renaissance costumes?&nbsp; Apart from E-bay I mean.&nbsp; Do you think there would be any interest in such a list?&nbsp; <BR>
<BR>
Just curious,<BR>
<BR>
Lisa</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fripper's and second hand garb
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Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 02:06:02 +0000
Status: RO

I'm primarily in the SCA, altough I do attend the Texas-based RenFaires. 
Most of the time what I see is old stuff either gets given to someone else 
(either due to a closet cleaning or because it doesn't fit satisfactorily 
anymore) or it simply gets trashed. (Oh my! And what time period is that 
supposed to be? Nothing documentable, and I wouldn't inflict it on anyone!) 
For second-hand stuff, the closest thing we have here would be the LOCAL 
SCA's Hospitaler's Guild (read: newcomer's guild) that has some simple 
pieces available for loan.

I'd be interested in talking to anyone who involves second-hand clothing in 
their "personas", as their was a thriving trade in it in Renaissance Italy.

Mary/Katerine

>
>I have a question for those people in the U.S. particularly (or anyone 
>else)
>who have been doing Ren Faires for awhile.  What happens to all the old 
>garb
>that people get tired of?  Does period clothing circulate and/or get 
>resold?
>Has anyone ever gone to a Ren Faire as a Fripper, a dealer in second hand
>goods as their gig?  Is there any sort of on-line list dealing in the
>exchange of old renaissance costumes?  Apart from E-bay I mean.  Do you 
>think
>there would be any interest in such a list?
>
>Just curious,
>
>Lisa


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Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 21:18:14 EST
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In a message dated 11/6/02 6:08:14 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
noxcat@hotmail.com writes:


> I'd be interested in talking to anyone who involves second-hand clothing in 
> their "personas", as their was a thriving trade in it in Renaissance Italy.
> 

Yes, I find the subject most interesting too, although I am just starting to 
read about it.  I ask because I a working on a  web site that will be a 
virutal glimpse of  the clothiers on Threadneedle St in Renaissance London.  
I will have a page devoted to a frippers shop and I was thinking of creating 
a list that I could link to the page for anyone who wanted to post info on 
outfits they wanted to get rid of. Old ones, not new creations, ff that would 
be a servce to the ren faire community.  It would certainly bring my web site 
to life as I would like it to be as interactive as possible, so I am sounding 
out the possibilities.

Any feedback would be appreciated.

Lisa

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 11/6/02 6:08:14 PM Pacific Standard Time, noxcat@hotmail.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I'd be interested in talking to anyone who involves second-hand clothing in <BR>
their "personas", as their was a thriving trade in it in Renaissance Italy.<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Yes, I find the subject most interesting too, although I am just starting to read about it.&nbsp; I ask because I a working on a&nbsp; web site that will be a virutal glimpse of&nbsp; the clothiers on Threadneedle St in Renaissance London.&nbsp; I will have a page devoted to a frippers shop and I was thinking of creating a list that I could link to the page for anyone who wanted to post info on outfits they wanted to get rid of. Old ones, not new creations, ff that would be a servce to the ren faire community.&nbsp; It would certainly bring my web site to life as I would like it to be as interactive as possible, so I am sounding out the possibilities.<BR>
<BR>
Any feedback would be appreciated.<BR>
<BR>
Lisa</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fripper's and second hand garb
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In a message dated 11/6/02 6:19:49 PM Pacific Standard Time, LSinervo@aol.com 
writes:


> I was thinking of creating a list that I could link to the page for anyone 
> who wanted to post info on outfits they wanted to get rid of


I meant, a link on my page that would link to the list.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 11/6/02 6:19:49 PM Pacific Standard Time, LSinervo@aol.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I was thinking of creating a list that I could link to the page for anyone who wanted to post info on outfits they wanted to get rid of</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
<BR>
I meant, a link on my page that would link to the list.<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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From: "Ann Neff" <a_neff@bellsouth.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Fripper's and second hand garb
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 "Fripper"  - what a cool word!   Is it a root of frippery?
 
Around here (Georgia Renaissance Festival) we loan to each other, or
perhaps sell to someone as an individual.  It's a great idea, but you'd
have to get enough pieces to give a selection.  One problem would be
re-selling easily recognized items from booths at that faire, and being
competition.  For instance I can spot clothes from Heart's Delight,
Royal Family, and Moresca from a long way .   
 
Ann 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of LSinervo@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2002 8:41 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Fripper's and second hand garb


I have a question for those people in the U.S. particularly (or anyone
else) who have been doing Ren Faires for awhile.  What happens to all
the old garb that people get tired of?  Does period clothing circulate
and/or get resold?  Has anyone ever gone to a Ren Faire as a Fripper, a
dealer in second hand goods as their gig?  Is there any sort of on-line
list dealing in the exchange of old renaissance costumes?  Apart from
E-bay I mean.  Do you think there would be any interest in such a list?


Just curious,

Lisa 


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<BODY>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D187331502-07112002><FONT face=3DVerdana =
color=3D#0000ff=20
size=3D2>&nbsp;"Fripper"&nbsp; - what a cool word!&nbsp; &nbsp;Is it a =
root of=20
frippery?</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D187331502-07112002><FONT face=3DVerdana =
color=3D#0000ff=20
size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D187331502-07112002><FONT face=3DVerdana =
color=3D#0000ff=20
size=3D2>Around here (Georgia Renaissance Festival) we loan to each =
other, or=20
perhaps sell to someone as an individual.&nbsp; It's a great idea, but =
you'd=20
have to get enough pieces to give a selection.&nbsp; One problem would=20
be&nbsp;re-selling easily recognized&nbsp;items from booths at that =
faire, and=20
being competition.&nbsp;&nbsp;F</FONT></SPAN><SPAN=20
class=3D187331502-07112002><FONT face=3DVerdana color=3D#0000ff =
size=3D2>or instance I=20
can spot clothes&nbsp;from Heart's Delight, Royal Family, and Moresca =
from=20
a&nbsp;long way . &nbsp; </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D187331502-07112002><FONT face=3DVerdana =
color=3D#0000ff=20
size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D187331502-07112002><FONT face=3DVerdana =
color=3D#0000ff size=3D2>Ann=20
</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader lang=3Den-us dir=3Dltr =
align=3Dleft><FONT=20
  face=3DTahoma size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>=20
  h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] <B>On =
Behalf Of=20
  </B>LSinervo@aol.com<BR><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, November 06, 2002 8:41 =

  PM<BR><B>To:</B> h-costume@indra.com<BR><B>Subject:</B> [h-cost] =
Fripper's and=20
  second hand garb<BR><BR></FONT></DIV><FONT =
face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0=20
  face=3DArial size=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">I have a question for those =
people in the=20
  U.S. particularly (or anyone else) who have been doing Ren Faires for=20
  awhile.&nbsp; What happens to all the old garb that people get tired =
of?&nbsp;=20
  Does period clothing circulate and/or get resold?&nbsp; Has anyone =
ever gone=20
  to a Ren Faire as a Fripper, a dealer in second hand goods as their =
gig?&nbsp;=20
  Is there any sort of on-line list dealing in the exchange of old =
renaissance=20
  costumes?&nbsp; Apart from E-bay I mean.&nbsp; Do you think there =
would be any=20
  interest in such a list?&nbsp; <BR><BR>Just =
curious,<BR><BR>Lisa</FONT>=20
</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] Florence exhibit in Chicago
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Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 20:23:43 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

I was being stupid the other day and lost my
bookmarks.
Could some kind soul post again the dates for the
Florence exhibit to be in Chicago and where.  I keep
forgetting that my kids are not little anymore, I can
take an occasional day trip somewhere with a girl
friend to navigate and I live only 3 hours south of
Chicago.  I still have trouble losing the
indispensable mommy mindset even though the baby is
now eleven.
     Working on various eras of corsets and shifts. 
What is the usual amount of ease for these two
garments.  Some corset eras lace all the way closed
and some have "spring".  Some shifts are very loose,
as in Bella's camisias, while others look pretty close
to the body.  I'm looking at Regency and Elizabethan
right now for time periods and have to alter to allow
for the mountains (DD) but have no real idea as to how
much ease to allow for correctness and comfort.  A
ballpark figure to start with and then I will go into
mock-ups, probably of printed calico so I'll have new
night wear and not waste the lovely hankerchief linen
the nice lady ordered for me.

                              Cassandra (who must now
leave for work)


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In a message dated 11/6/02 6:38:20 PM Pacific Standard Time,=20
a_neff@bellsouth.net writes:


> "Fripper"  - what a cool word!   Is it a root of frippery?
>=20
> Main Entry: frip=B7pery
> Pronunciation: 'fri-p(&-)rE
Function: noun
Inflected Form(s):  plural -per=B7ies=20
Etymology: Middle French friperie, alteration of Old French freperie, from=20
frepe old garment
Date: 1568
1 : obsolete : a : cast-off clothes b : archaic : a place where old clothes=20
are sold=20
2 a : <A HREF=3D"aol://4344:1708.D0025341.40133375.672502915">FINERY</A>; al=
so : an elegant or showy garment b : something showy,=20
frivolous, or nonessential : <A HREF=3D"aol://4344:1708.D0040987.40149021.67=
2503271">LUXURY</A>, <A HREF=3D"aol://4344:1708.D0073541.40181578.672606222"=
>TRIFLE</A> c : <A HREF=3D"aol://4344:1708.D0048297.40156331.672503471">OSTE=
NTATION</A>; especially :=20
something foolish or affectedly elegant=20

yes........I like the word very much myself.


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Content-Type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1"
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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=
=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">In a message dated 11/6/02 6:38:20 PM Pacific Standard=
 Time, a_neff@bellsouth.net writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#0000ff" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D2=
 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Verdana" LANG=3D"0"><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=3DCITE st=
yle=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px;=20=
PADDING-LEFT: 5px">"Fripper"&nbsp; - what a cool word!&nbsp;&nbsp; Is it a r=
oot of frippery?<BR>
<BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D2=
 FAMILY=3D"SERIF" FACE=3D"Times New Roman" LANG=3D"0"><B>Main Entry: frip=
=B7pery</B><BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D3=
 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Verdana" LANG=3D"0"></BLOCKQUOTE><B>Pronunciat=
ion: </B>'fri-p(&amp;-)rE<BR>
<B>Function: </B><I>noun</I><BR>
<B>Inflected Form(s):&nbsp;</B> <I>plural</I> <B>-per=B7ies</B> <BR>
<B>Etymology: </B>Middle French <I>friperie,</I> alteration of Old French <I=
>freperie,</I> from <I>frepe</I> old garment<BR>
<B>Date: </B>1568<BR>
<B>1 :</B> <I>obsolete</I> <B>: a :</B> cast-off clothes <B>b :</B> <I>archa=
ic</I> <B>:</B> a place where old clothes are sold <BR>
<B>2 a :</B> <A HREF=3D"aol://4344:1708.D0025341.40133375.672502915">FINERY<=
/A>; <I>also</I> <B>:</B> an elegant or showy garment <B>b :</B> something s=
howy, frivolous, or nonessential <B>:</B> <A HREF=3D"aol://4344:1708.D004098=
7.40149021.672503271">LUXURY</A>, <A HREF=3D"aol://4344:1708.D0073541.401815=
78.672606222">TRIFLE</A> <B>c :</B> <A HREF=3D"aol://4344:1708.D0048297.4015=
6331.672503471">OSTENTATION</A>; <I>especially</I> <B>:</B> something foolis=
h or affectedly elegant <BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D2=
 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0"><BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3D3=
 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">yes........I like the word v=
ery much myself.</FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #=
ffffff" SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0"><BR>
<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 16:09:02 -0500
Status: RO

At 09:45 AM 11/6/2002 -0800, Kendra wrote:

>I came across these 1830's sleeve pads on the Kyoto Costume Institute's
>webpage -- I think these would be similar to what might be worn in the
>1890's.

Based on the shape and on the garments in Patterns of Fashion, I suspect 
these are pads for the false undersleeves -- not for puffed 
shoulder/leg-of-mutton sleeves.


Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 00:46:48 -0500
Status: RO

Just a reminder that Sunday is the deadline to enter the 2002 Online Costume
Ball.  If you enter after that date, you will be held over for the 2003
Ball.  I will be adding new guests all week long as my back holds up.  The
guests that I added to the Ball tonight start at Group 9 Guest 38 through
Group 10 Guest 48.  I still have several guests to add so check back
frequently.

Take a close look at Guest 40 called "Elizabethan News."  In one photo she
is holding all of the skirt pleated in two hands.  When she twirls (the
first photo) all the pleats of newspaper expand into a full skirt like a
drum farthingale.

Penny Ladnier
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Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 09:20:17 +0000
Status: RO

I love Stephen's Green Man costume!



Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> penny@costumegallery.com 11/07/02 05:46am >>>
Just a reminder that Sunday is the deadline to enter the 2002 Online Costume
Ball.  If you enter after that date, you will be held over for the 2003
Ball.  I will be adding new guests all week long as my back holds up.  The
guests that I added to the Ball tonight start at Group 9 Guest 38 through
Group 10 Guest 48.  I still have several guests to add so check back
frequently.




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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Forehead cloth/cross clothes
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Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 11:40:52 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote: > On the basis of 5
minutes looking... We seem to have 3 headcovering 
> items here.  There is the wired coif (earpieces just showing), the tight 
> forehead cloth, and the loose hood-type item which fastens (or not, in 
> the case of VISIT_METSU) around the neck.  I have a book of Allan Ramsay 
> portraits which show a number of ladies, always at their best, in either 
> a wired coif or the loose hood, but both showing hair under them.   Both 
> the old and the sick are expected to need to keep warm and keep their 
> heads well-wrapped - perhaps that is the function of the tight forehead 
> cloth, and it is combined as appropriate with the fashion headcovering?

What a good idea! Perhaps the easiest and most logical idea/thought might well
be the correct one (in addition to other thoughts perhaps)

Nicole 

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: 1890's sleeves
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Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 07:49:55 -0500
Status: RO

I have a pair of these that I believe to be from the 1890s.  They differ in
size  and are somewhat  kidney shaped.  Three  narrow twill ties  are
purposed to attach them to the armseye.  And they are very warm to wear.  I
can well imagine they were not worn in the summer.  Kathleen
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kendra Van Cleave" <kendrav@attbi.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2002 12:45 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: 1890's sleeves


> I came across these 1830's sleeve pads on the Kyoto Costume Institute's
> webpage -- I think these would be similar to what might be worn in the
> 1890's.
>
> http://www.kci.or.jp/cgi-bin/collection.cgi?lang=e&path=1820/09-009455_a
>
> - Kendra
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Back-in-Print Books Ltd
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Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 13:15:52 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,

I came across a book reprinted by this company when I was last in
hospital, and I wondered whether we might be able to muster sufficient
interest in some of those books we always want and are either never
are able to find, or horrendously expensive! The quality of the book
is excellent, and while it's not going to be cheap it's likely to be
achievable , as opposed to wildly beyond our reach.


http://www.backinprint.co.uk/whoarewe.html

Any thoughts on a wish list?

best wishes
Stevie



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Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 06:39:40 -0700
Status: RO

I'm in NW Montana, although it's warmed up some since then.  We're back
to something a little more rational, although still definitely winter. 
Blech!
--Sue

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> 
> >--sue, who thinks Puerto Rico sounds mighty fine about now....we've got
> >record cold temps this week--3 degrees above 0 this a.m. (that's
> >farenheit...about 30 degrees below freezing.  Not at all sure of what
> >the appropriate metric number would be, but d@mn! it's cold out!)
> 
> Where are you?  I have a daughter in New York City in college, and she, a
> native-Californian, is about to discover Winter.  Of course she will need a
> New-York-Winter costume, as opposed to the San-Francisco-'Winter' costume
> she's been used to all her life.  She actually grew up in San Jose, 50
> miles south of San Francisco, where the weather is much milder than it is
> in San Francisco.
> 
> Kayta
> 
>     //// \\\
>    ////-@@\\\
>   ((((   7 )))
>    (((  <> ))))
>       )   ((((((
> /----\   /---\))
> 
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fripper's and second hand garb
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Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 13:45:05 -0000
Status: RO

Hi there,
Can you cite the dictionary you are quoting? I'm running down
references in the OED at the moment, but it would help if I knew the
dictionary you are using. Also, what date are you positing for your
premises on Threadneedle St?
best wishes
Stevie

_________---
> Main Entry: frip·pery
> Pronunciation: 'fri-p(&-)rE
Function: noun
Inflected Form(s):  plural -per·ies
Etymology: Middle French friperie, alteration of Old French freperie,
from
frepe old garment
Date: 1568
1 : obsolete : a : cast-off clothes b : archaic : a place where old
clothes
are sold


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Subject: [h-cost] braces & corsets
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Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 10:09:18 -0500
Status: RO

      There was some discussion a while back about metal corsets as 
braces for orthopedic treatment.  I wore a brace from ages 10 to 16, 
and sometimes wonder if my interest in historic corsetry was 
partially due to the familiarity of wearing one.

      Someone mentioned a scoliosis brace seeming like a torture 
device.  The only one that looks that way is the Charleston Bend 
brace, which bends the body in the opposite direction of the curve. 
It's only worn at night for treatment, since the extent of the 
bending limits mobility.  Otherwise braces fit the shape of the body, 
or the shape that the body is supposed to be.

      This web page

http://users.netmatters.co.uk/ju90/cylife.htm

is written by a woman who wears a brace as an adult, and modified its 
appearance do make it interesting and fashionable to wear.  What a 
great concept, after so many years of people hiding their differences!

      I found the page while surfing around after I saw the movie 
Frida.  I really enjoyed the art direction, how her paintings melted 
in and out of scenes.  And, of course, there are some nice early & 
mid 20thC costumes. :-)

      -Carol
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In a message dated 11/7/02 5:42:23 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
stevie.gamble@btinternet.com writes:


> Can you cite the dictionary you are quoting? I'm running down
> references in the OED at the moment, but it would help if I knew the
> dictionary you are using. Also, what date are you positing for your
> premises on Threadneedle St?

I did a cut and paste from the AOL online Merriam Webster dictionary.  It is 
my intention to have the two Tudor / Elizabethan time periods done by the 
time I launch the site next June, (www.threadneedlest.com if your interested) 
but I will also be adding era's forwards and backwards.  It's a long term 
project.  The thought it behind it is, one can enter a date and have a look 
at the shops, guilds and industry involved in the clothing trade at any point 
in time so see what's for sale or what's in style at that point in time.  If 
it was the medieval time period, one might find a number of pages for various 
guilds and to see what's going out of style, one might look at the fripper's 
shop page, if you entered in 1960 you might find yourself in a department 
store.  If you entered the current date, you would find my on-line catalogue 
of vintage/historical reproduction clothing.  

Rgds,

Lisa


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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 11/7/02 5:42:23 AM Pacific Standard Time, stevie.gamble@btinternet.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Can you cite the dictionary you are quoting? I'm running down<BR>
references in the OED at the moment, but it would help if I knew the<BR>
dictionary you are using. Also, what date are you positing for your<BR>
premises on Threadneedle St?</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
I did a cut and paste from the AOL online Merriam Webster dictionary.&nbsp; It is my intention to have the two Tudor / Elizabethan time periods done by the time I launch the site next June, (www.threadneedlest.com if your interested) but I will also be adding era's forwards and backwards.&nbsp; It's a long term project.&nbsp; The thought it behind it is, one can enter a date and have a look at the shops, guilds and industry involved in the clothing trade at any point in time so see what's for sale or what's in style at that point in time.&nbsp; If it was the medieval time period, one might find a number of pages for various guilds and to see what's going out of style, one might look at the fripper's shop page, if you entered in 1960 you might find yourself in a department store.&nbsp; If you entered the current date, you would find my on-line catalogue of vintage/historical reproduction clothing.&nbsp; <BR>
<BR>
Rgds,<BR>
<BR>
Lisa<BR>
<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 07:43:48 +0000
Status: RO

When I first saw the word, nightmares of my childhoood  TV programming
came back to me, and a song started up eeerily in my head,

"Fripper, Fripper,
Faster than lightning...."

Anyone else remember "Flipper"?

Oy. :/

Arlys

On Thu, 7 Nov 2002 00:05:23 EST LSinervo@aol.com writes:
> In a message dated 11/6/02 6:38:20 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
> a_neff@bellsouth.net writes:
> 
> 
> > "Fripper"  - what a cool word!   Is it a root of frippery?
> > 
> > Main Entry: frip·pery
> > Pronunciation: 'fri-p(&-)rE
> Function: noun
> Inflected Form(s):  plural -per·ies 
> Etymology: Middle French friperie, alteration of Old French 
> freperie, from 
> frepe old garment
> Date: 1568
> 1 : obsolete : a : cast-off clothes b : archaic : a place where old 
> clothes 
> are sold 
> 2 a : <A 
> HREF="aol://4344:1708.D0025341.40133375.672502915">FINERY</A>; also 
> : an elegant or showy garment b : something showy, 
> frivolous, or nonessential : <A 
> HREF="aol://4344:1708.D0040987.40149021.672503271">LUXURY</A>, <A 
> HREF="aol://4344:1708.D0073541.40181578.672606222">TRIFLE</A> c : <A 
> HREF="aol://4344:1708.D0048297.40156331.672503471">OSTENTATION</A>; 
> especially : 
> something foolish or affectedly elegant 
> 
> yes........I like the word very much myself.
> 


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Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 10:42:07 -0600
Status: RO


I am in the process of adding a page documenting my construction of a
dress in which to play Queen Elizabeth at a small local RenFaire. The
first installment is up and can be seen at:

http://members.tripod.com/seamstrix/

Look for the page that says 'To Dress A Queen' and follow along with the
fun. 

Karen

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Nov  7 12:23:41 2002
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Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 12:10:14 -0500
Status: RO

        I do so love to hear other people's struggles to chose the fabric
and design and then construct a new gown.  I have pretty much quit making
gowns for myself and just wear my old tunics and sideless surcotes and
spend my creative juices to dress the dolls.  It takes so little fabric
and their figures don't change in the middle of construction.

        Do keep us posted on your updates.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Saga Begins.....
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Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 17:43:26 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

I'm sorry but I can't see anything that even remotely says 'to dress a queen'.
Where do I find that? I use netscape, I won't diddle with evil IE, could that
be the problem? Could you please send the direct link since I cannot find a
link anywhere for the life of me?

Nicole
 
--- seamstrix@juno.com wrote: > 
> I am in the process of adding a page documenting my construction of a
> dress in which to play Queen Elizabeth at a small local RenFaire. The
> first installment is up and can be seen at:
> 
> http://members.tripod.com/seamstrix/
> 
> Look for the page that says 'To Dress A Queen' and follow along with the
> fun. 
> 
> Karen



=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 13:14:13 EST
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In a message dated 11/7/2002 11:47:56 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
seamstrix@juno.com writes:


> http://members.tripod.com/seamstrix/


Hmmmmm..

Temporarily UnavailableThe Tripod page you are trying to reach has exceeded 
its hourly bandwidth limit. The site will be available again in 2 hours! 
Thank you!  
    
    

Exceeding its hourly bandwidth limit. Shame on you!


> 
> Look for the page that says 'To Dress A Queen' and follow along with the
> fun. 
> 


Wait....I thought Quentin Crisp died.....

[badda bing!]


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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 11/7/2002 11:47:56 AM Eastern Standard Time, seamstrix@juno.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">http://members.tripod.com/seamstrix/</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR>Hmmmmm..
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=4 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="arial" LANG="0"><B>Temporarily Unavailable</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="arial" LANG="0"></B>The Tripod page you are trying to reach has exceeded its hourly bandwidth limit. The site will be available again in 2 hours! Thank you! </FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="arial" LANG="0"> 
<BR>    
<BR>    
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR>Exceeding its hourly bandwidth limit. Shame on you!
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">
<BR>Look for the page that says 'To Dress A Queen' and follow along with the
<BR>fun. 
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>Wait....I thought Quentin Crisp died.....
<BR>
<BR>[badda bing!]
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 13:45:06 -0600
Status: RO

Here's the direct link.


http://members.tripod.com/seamstrix/To%20Dress%20A%20Queen.htm

I got a spanking from Tripod as apparently we have been using to much
bandwidth. Foo! They just need to get a sense of humor.


Karen


On Thu, 7 Nov 2002 17:43:26 +0000 (GMT) =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?=
<nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> writes:
> I'm sorry but I can't see anything that even remotely says 'to dress 
> a queen'.
> Where do I find that? I use netscape, I won't diddle with evil IE, 
> could that
> be the problem? Could you please send the direct link since I cannot 
> find a
> link anywhere for the life of me?
> 
> Nicole

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References: <20021030141058.19408.qmail@web80102.mail.yahoo.com> <OE22dVe5HXC9xubfedl00001c18@hotmail.com> <3DC137AE.93F0C156@bigpond.com> <3DC04E6C.412EFA1F@netdefender.com> <4.3.1.2.20021101221655.04c99b30@mail.frys.com> <3DCA6D1C.15007D36@in-tch.com>
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Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 15:35:16 -0500
Status: RO

I am in upstate New York - about the middle of the state, almost exactly 200
miles north of NYC as it is measured in miles on the NYS Thruway.
It has snowed about 3 times so far.    A lot of upstate shut down yesterday,
as the wet snow and ice on the trees (that still have leaves on them)
brought down a lot of limbs and power lines.   NYC just got rain.
Rowena

> I'm in NW Montana, although it's warmed up some since then.  We're back
> to something a little more rational, although still definitely winter.
> Blech!
> --Sue
>
> Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> >
> > >--sue, who thinks Puerto Rico sounds mighty fine about now....we've got
> > >record cold temps this week--3 degrees above 0 this a.m. (that's
> > >farenheit...about 30 degrees below freezing.  Not at all sure of what
> > >the appropriate metric number would be, but d@mn! it's cold out!)
> >
> > Where are you?  I have a daughter in New York City in college, and she,
a
> > native-Californian, is about to discover Winter.  Of course she will
need a
> > New-York-Winter costume, as opposed to the San-Francisco-'Winter'
costume
> > she's been used to all her life.  She actually grew up in San Jose, 50
> > miles south of San Francisco, where the weather is much milder than it
is
> > in San Francisco.
>

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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Saga Begins.....
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Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 16:03:58 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

I tried to get to your page (at 20 past 1) and got a message from tripod
saying that your hourly bandwidth had been exceeded. I just checked (at
4:03) and got the same message.  :(

Thought I'd let you know,

Drea
(who really wants to see the pretty dresses!)



On Thu, 7 Nov 2002 seamstrix@juno.com wrote:

> Here's the direct link.
>
>
> http://members.tripod.com/seamstrix/To%20Dress%20A%20Queen.htm
>
> I got a spanking from Tripod as apparently we have been using to much
> bandwidth. Foo! They just need to get a sense of humor.
>
>
> Karen
>
>
> On Thu, 7 Nov 2002 17:43:26 +0000 (GMT) =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?=
> <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> writes:
> > I'm sorry but I can't see anything that even remotely says 'to dress
> > a queen'.
> > Where do I find that? I use netscape, I won't diddle with evil IE,
> > could that
> > be the problem? Could you please send the direct link since I cannot
> > find a
> > link anywhere for the life of me?
> >
> > Nicole
>
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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fripper's and second hand garb
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Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 13:12:03 -0800
Status: RO








I ask because I a working on a  web site that will be a
>virutal glimpse of  the clothiers on Threadneedle St in Renaissance London.

~What a wonderful and fun project!~

>I will have a page devoted to a frippers shop and I was thinking of 
>creating
>a list that I could link to the page for anyone who wanted to post info on
>outfits they wanted to get rid of. Old ones, not new creations

~I think that is a fantastic idea.  The "goodwill" of costumers...online.  I 
often sell my used costumes with dramatically reduced prices just because I 
start running out of room.  I'm often delighted to see something I remember 
making years back and when I talk to the new owner I find that it has been 
on many adventures.  That's why my clothes are made to last.  ;) ~



Jennifer Sena
Distant Designs
http://home.teleport.com/~cedric/distdesi

I wont hurt you, I just want to dress you up!!



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Saga Begins.....
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Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 21:13:07 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Thank you very much, I got it now! :-) ohhh I love dress diaries, so exciting.

Nicole

 --- seamstrix@juno.com wrote: > Here's the direct link.
> 
> 
> http://members.tripod.com/seamstrix/To%20Dress%20A%20Queen.htm
> 
> I got a spanking from Tripod as apparently we have been using to much
> bandwidth. Foo! They just need to get a sense of humor.
> 
> 
> Karen


=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Nov  7 19:06:48 2002
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Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 16:07:01 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Finally catching up on my list.
   I still have my first costume and my husbands and
his roommates and my housemates.  We were all so broke
as college students that all I made were t-tunics with
gussets and sometimes front-lacing.  My own first
costume was based on a portrait of the Madonna and
child in Boucher's 20,000 years.  The underdress was
of gold twill doubleknit but it only showed at the
edge of the neck and sleeves.  The overdress laced up
the front as in the portrait and was a medium weight
cotton that happened to be the correct shade of blue. 
Some kind soul in our barony pointed out that wedding
gown patterns often have the correct neckline and
waist so I got a wedding gown pattern with the same
simple lines and neck and waist and stitched it up
with back lacing instead of a zipper.  When we finally
gave up the SCA after the third baby no-one was
wearing the simple lower-class garments we were still
using so I still have them all.  The kids use them for
Halloween and nightwear because they're natural fiber
and comfortable.  I realize the SCA in our area is
much more authentic then when I started 25 years ago
so I've never bothered passing the clothes on.
    I'm looking forward to the second-hand shop link
and hope you'll keep us posted.
                               Cassandra

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Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 18:00:12 -0600
Status: RO

I have hopefully fixed the bandwidth issues. I think that Tripod has
gotten stingier in what they allow for their free sites because I've
enver had this issue before that I'm aware of. Pleh. Anyway, all should
be able to view the page at their leisure now.....I hope........


Karen


On Thu, 7 Nov 2002 16:03:58 -0500 (EST) Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
writes:
> I tried to get to your page (at 20 past 1) and got a message from 
> tripod
> saying that your hourly bandwidth had been exceeded. I just checked 
> (at
> 4:03) and got the same message.  :(
> 
> Thought I'd let you know,
> 
> Drea
> (who really wants to see the pretty dresses!)
> 
> 

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Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 19:23:56 -0500
Status: RO

So, has anyone come across references to cross cloths or forehead cloths 
into the 18th century?  Or seen them in pictures?  How late do these things 
go?  I've seen things that looked like some kind of under-cap, and wondered 
what they were, but darn it all, at the moment I can't remember where I saw 
them and what period.

It does solve one problem for me -- what were 18th c. Scottish Highland 
women wearing under their kertches?  I'd bet anything it was a forehead 
cloth.  You can see something peeking out from under the edge of the kertch 
in the Henwife picture; her kertch is clearly pinned to it at the crown of 
her head.

-- Mara


At 08:24 PM 11/6/2002 +0000, you wrote:
>On the basis of 5 minutes looking... We seem to have 3 headcovering items 
>here.  There is the wired coif (earpieces just showing), the tight 
>forehead cloth, and the loose hood-type item which fastens (or not, in the 
>case of VISIT_METSU) around the neck.  I have a book of Allan Ramsay 
>portraits which show a number of ladies, always at their best, in either a 
>wired coif or the loose hood, but both showing hair under them.   Both the 
>old and the sick are expected to need to keep warm and keep their heads 
>well-wrapped - perhaps that is the function of the tight forehead cloth, 
>and it is combined as appropriate with the fashion headcovering?
>
>Just an instant thought
>
>Jean

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Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 19:26:20 -0500
Status: RO

This isn't RenFaire, but this spring we had a Reenactor's Yard Sale in the 
DC area (well, Maryland).  A local reenacting couple held it at their 
house.  There was a decent turnout; we could have had more of one if we'd 
posted notes at, say, Gettysburg etc.  The goods being sold ranged from the 
Iron Age through Vietnam.  I made a little money selling stuff from periods 
I no longer do, as did a few friends of mine.

Not a bad idea, really! I hope they do it again next year.

Cheers,
Mara

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In a message dated 11/7/02 4:46:47 PM Pacific Standard Time, lindo@radix.net 
writes:


> There was a decent turnout; we could have had more of one if we'd 
> posted notes at, say, Gettysburg etc

So maybe a list from all time periods that also allowed people to announce 
their "yard sales" would be good?  What about the inclusion of costuming 
books, old fabric staches etc.........do you think it would be too broad to 
include, tents, banners and all second hand re-enactment gear.  Or maybe just 
broadly textile related?

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 11/7/02 4:46:47 PM Pacific Standard Time, lindo@radix.net writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">There was a decent turnout; we could have had more of one if we'd <BR>
posted notes at, say, Gettysburg etc</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
So maybe a list from all time periods that also allowed people to announce their "yard sales" would be good?&nbsp; What about the inclusion of costuming books, old fabric staches etc.........do you think it would be too broad to include, tents, banners and all second hand re-enactment gear.&nbsp; Or maybe just broadly textile related?</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] braces & corsets
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Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 14:38:54 +1300
Status: RO

>       There was some discussion a while back about metal corsets as
> braces for orthopedic treatment.  I wore a brace from ages 10 to 16,
> and sometimes wonder if my interest in historic corsetry was
> partially due to the familiarity of wearing one.

Yep, and I expected more of a reaction to Valerie Steele actually finding
documented proof that metal corsets *were* prescribed for problems with the
torso. Doesn't mean to say the ones we have around were for this use, but
that one of the rumours/theories is true.

> http://users.netmatters.co.uk/ju90/cylife.htm
> is written by a woman who wears a brace as an adult, and modified its
> appearance do make it interesting and fashionable to wear.  What a
> great concept, after so many years of people hiding their differences!

Wow, her text on perception of disability is really interesting, and
somethign I've had to deal with, though on a less visible and all
encompasing way. I've been having to wear wrist and elbow braces fairly
constantly this last year, and started to make my own.

I may now go one step further and *personalise* my braces.

Thanks so much for this, it's given me a fresher more positive (if a kiss my
ass;) ) view of what I can do:)

michaela
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce
http://recital.tripod.com/costume


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Subject: [h-cost] Victorian-ish Boots
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Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 23:02:15 -0600
Status: RO


I have found an on line source for boots that seem to be a pretty good
version of a Victorian lace-up boot. They are made of leather (uppers, of
course) and have a modest heel. The best part is that they come in a wide
variety of sizes and are just under $50.00USD. I have received the pair
that I ordered and the quality looks good but they seem to run a tad on
the small size. They have lots of half sizes and if you are wondering
about buying a size or a half size, go with the slightly larger option.
Did I mention they also do W and WW? 


http://www.roamans.com/roamans/product/product.asp?pf_id=19343&dept_id=74
6&rootdept=610&parent_id=742&


Not affiliated, just a customer.


Happy Shopping!

Karen

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With that fabric your gown is going to look very nice.  Is it something you 
had, I think it might have taken 4 weeks just to track it down!

Lisa

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">With that fabric your gown is going to look very nice.&nbsp; Is it something you had, I think it might have taken 4 weeks just to track it down!<BR>
<BR>
Lisa</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Forehead cloth/cross clothes
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Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 08:17:38 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Well, they go from my research at least up to 1715. *G* I might have even seen
a 1720s picture, but anything later than that I wouldn't know.

Nicole

 --- Kevin + Mara <lindo@radix.net> wrote: > So, has anyone come across
references to cross cloths or forehead cloths 
> into the 18th century?  Or seen them in pictures?  How late do these things 
> go?  I've seen things that looked like some kind of under-cap, and wondered 
> what they were, but darn it all, at the moment I can't remember where I saw 
> them and what period.
 

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 00:50:07 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


"michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz> wrote:
[...] 
> > http://users.netmatters.co.uk/ju90/cylife.htm
> > is written by a woman who wears a brace as an adult, and modified its
> > appearance do make it interesting and fashionable to wear.  What a
> > great concept, after so many years of people hiding their differences!

I know at least one local here who wears a plastron brace who recently
painted his bright gold.  And then added a big sculptural pot leaf on the
front (sort of like Superman, only cooler).  He says that doctors often
try and pretend they just didn't see that...[grin]

> Wow, her text on perception of disability is really interesting, and
> somethign I've had to deal with, though on a less visible and all
> encompasing way. I've been having to wear wrist and elbow braces fairly
> constantly this last year, and started to make my own.
> 
> I may now go one step further and *personalise* my braces.

I had a pair of wrist braces ages ago (oh, at least 3 or 4 pairs back) that
I added huge blinking LEDs onto.  They attached onto the straps.  And yes,
they made mighty cool clubwear.  Since I no longer wear the wrist braces during
the day, I haven't bothered to do anything with the current pair.  However,
my finger splints have gotten so many comments that I'm fairly sure I could
make money selling them as fashion accessories.  They're a slightly different
design from the ones on this page:

http://www.silverringsplint.com/hyperextension.html

Mine are formed of one piece of hammered silver worked spirally (like those
spoon rings that were popular during the 1970s).  They give the appearance
of doubled silver rings.  If my hands were still up to doing production 
silversmithing, I could probably sell these to the teenagers and club kids
for a decent amount of money.  

> Thanks so much for this, it's given me a fresher more positive (if a kiss my
> ass;) ) view of what I can do:)

Heh.  I've been offending people lately with my, "That's right, I'm crippled.
Now get over it, I have." attitude.  Which means I've also been thumbing my
nose at people who say my costume adaptations aren't period.  When they quit
getting vaccinations and taking antibiotics, I'll take that part seriously.

I am _seriously_ tempted to get an extremely dark pair of wire frame specs
for Dickens Fair this year and go as a blind musician...

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 00:52:28 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


seamstrix@juno.com wrote:
> I have found an on line source for boots that seem to be a pretty good
> version of a Victorian lace-up boot. They are made of leather (uppers, of
> course) and have a modest heel. The best part is that they come in a wide
> variety of sizes and are just under $50.00USD. I have received the pair
> that I ordered and the quality looks good but they seem to run a tad on
> the small size. They have lots of half sizes and if you are wondering
> about buying a size or a half size, go with the slightly larger option.
> Did I mention they also do W and WW? 
> 
> http://www.roamans.com/roamans/product/product.asp?pf_id=19343&dept_id=74
> 6&rootdept=610&parent_id=742&

Bugger, the smallest size is US7.  Looks like I'm still stuck with my
lace-up western boots.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 10:05:45 +0100
Status: RO


--------------010709040502080600040502
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>
> So maybe a list from all time periods that also allowed people to 
> announce their "yard sales" would be good?  What about the inclusion 
> of costuming books, old fabric staches etc.........do you think it 
> would be too broad to include, tents, banners and all second hand 
> re-enactment gear.  Or maybe just broadly textile related?

I think that is very interesting. A place where you can buy second hand 
pavilions would be nice. New ones are so expensive.
But I think that it would also work for new handmade stuf. One list 
where you can buy everything you need for SCA or reenactment.
Maby it is even possible to make someting as eBay, and earn money with 
it.....

Greetings,
        Deredere

--------------010709040502080600040502
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<html>
<head>
</head>
<body>
<blockquote type="cite" cite="mid:172.113c2bcc.2afc6bc4@aol.com"><font face="arial,helvetica"><font size="2" family="SANSSERIF" face="Arial" lang="0"><br>
 So maybe a list from all time periods that also allowed people to announce
their "yard sales" would be good?&nbsp; What about the inclusion of costuming
books, old fabric staches etc.........do you think it would be too broad
to include, tents, banners and all second hand re-enactment gear.&nbsp; Or maybe
just broadly textile related?</font></font></blockquote>
I think that is very interesting. A place where you can buy second hand pavilions
would be nice. New ones are so expensive.<br>
But I think that it would also work for new handmade stuf. One list where
you can buy everything you need for SCA or reenactment.<br>
Maby it is even possible to make someting as eBay, and earn money with it.....<br>
  <br>
Greetings,<br>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Deredere<br>
  </body>
  </html>

--------------010709040502080600040502--

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Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 06:46:21 -0700
Status: RO

I just tried it (fairly early Friday a.m.), and didn't have any
problems.  Karen, I sure wish I lived near enough to you to sneak over
and bump you off for that *amazing* brocade! Drooooooool!
--sue

Drea Leed wrote:
> 
> I tried to get to your page (at 20 past 1) and got a message from tripod
> saying that your hourly bandwidth had been exceeded. I just checked (at
> 4:03) and got the same message.  :(
> 
> Thought I'd let you know,
> 
> Drea
> (who really wants to see the pretty dresses!)
> 
> On Thu, 7 Nov 2002 seamstrix@juno.com wrote:
> 
> > Here's the direct link.
> >
> >
> > http://members.tripod.com/seamstrix/To%20Dress%20A%20Queen.htm
> >
> > I got a spanking from Tripod as apparently we have been using to much
> > bandwidth. Foo! They just need to get a sense of humor.
> >
> >
> > Karen
> >
> >
> > On Thu, 7 Nov 2002 17:43:26 +0000 (GMT) =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?=
> > <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> writes:
> > > I'm sorry but I can't see anything that even remotely says 'to dress
> > > a queen'.
> > > Where do I find that? I use netscape, I won't diddle with evil IE,
> > > could that
> > > be the problem? Could you please send the direct link since I cannot
> > > find a
> > > link anywhere for the life of me?
> > >
> > > Nicole
> >
> > ________________________________________________________________
> > Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today
> > Only $9.95 per month!
> > Visit www.juno.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> 
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Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 06:49:40 -0700
Status: RO

I'm laughing, not from your interesting info, but from the mental
picture I was getting from the thread topic....I took it to be regarding
corsets and braces/_suspenders_, and couldn't quite picture it, but
figured it kinda described the various interests of this list pretty
darn good!
--Sue, in dark, potentially snowy Montana

Carol Kocian wrote:
> 
>       There was some discussion a while back about metal corsets as
> braces for orthopedic treatment.  I wore a brace from ages 10 to 16,
> and sometimes wonder if my interest in historic corsetry was
> partially due to the familiarity of wearing one.
> 
>       Someone mentioned a scoliosis brace seeming like a torture
> device.  The only one that looks that way is the Charleston Bend
> brace, which bends the body in the opposite direction of the curve.
> It's only worn at night for treatment, since the extent of the
> bending limits mobility.  Otherwise braces fit the shape of the body,
> or the shape that the body is supposed to be.
> 
>       This web page
> 
> http://users.netmatters.co.uk/ju90/cylife.htm
> 
> is written by a woman who wears a brace as an adult, and modified its
> appearance do make it interesting and fashionable to wear.  What a
> great concept, after so many years of people hiding their differences!
> 
>       I found the page while surfing around after I saw the movie
> Frida.  I really enjoyed the art direction, how her paintings melted
> in and out of scenes.  And, of course, there are some nice early &
> mid 20thC costumes. :-)
> 
>       -Carol
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Nov  8 09:20:16 2002
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Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 15:19:51 +0100
Status: RO

Jubii, it finally worked for me to se your projekt.
It looks gorgeous, cant wait to follow your diary!
Wonderfull brocade, where did you find that? It is silk yes?
Sumptious................

Bjarne


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Nov  8 09:38:38 2002
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From: "Kim Baird" <kbaird@cableone.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Victorian-ish Boots
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Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 08:40:14 -0600
Status: RO

I just checked out those boots from Roamans, and they look very good,
especially at that price.

One word of warning--at the top of the laces, they have hooks insteads
of grommets. The hooks will catch on your petticoats and tear them. I
speak from experience.

One place I have found similar boots in smaller sizes is the thrift
store. Since I'm looking for 9's and 10's, it seems to me they always
have size 5's there.

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of seamstrix@juno.com
Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2002 11:02 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Victorian-ish Boots


I have found an on line source for boots that seem to be a pretty good
version of a Victorian lace-up boot. They are made of leather (uppers,
of
course) and have a modest heel. The best part is that they come in a
wide
variety of sizes and are just under $50.00USD. I have received the pair
that I ordered and the quality looks good but they seem to run a tad on
the small size. They have lots of half sizes and if you are wondering
about buying a size or a half size, go with the slightly larger option.
Did I mention they also do W and WW? 


http://www.roamans.com/roamans/product/product.asp?pf_id=19343&dept_id=7
4
6&rootdept=610&parent_id=742&


Not affiliated, just a customer.


Happy Shopping!

Karen

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Nov  8 11:04:03 2002
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Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 07:50:14 +0000
Status: RO

> Heh.  I've been offending people lately with my, "That's right, I'm 
> crippled. Now get over it, I have." attitude.  Which means I've also
been 
> thumbing my nose at people who say my costume adaptations aren't
period.  When 
> they quit getting vaccinations and taking antibiotics, I'll take that
part 
> seriously.
> 
> I am _seriously_ tempted to get an extremely dark pair of wire frame 
> specs for Dickens Fair this year and go as a blind musician...
> 
> Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        

Go get 'em! :D I've run into this too from time to time (rheumatoid
arthritis). If I cut my long skirts shorter in the front and longer in
the back, it means I can get up and walk without tripping (and,
incidentally, the shirt has a lovely flow to it). If my sleeves tend
towards more fitting than not, it means I can use my arms better. If my
shoes have orthotics, so? What business is it of theirs??

I teach a newcomer's class to the SCA on a fairly regular basis. I am
always telling my students not to follow certain things I do because I am
disabled, but also make it clear that there are things they can do and
should if they have mobility issues and give them ideas for adaptations. 
And fer Pete's sake, wear your glasses..... :)

Along the same line, this last month I proposed and my shire voted for
monies for a portable elevated toilet seat. Privately owned sites in the
U.S. are not required to be ADA compliant, and sometimes the most basic
of needs are met with inaccessible facilities. So we got one and it now
lives in the Shire inventory to be used for indoor events.

Arlys

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Nov  8 11:35:29 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fripper's and second hand garb
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In a message dated 11/8/02 1:07:11 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
triade@kabelfoon.nl writes:


> One list where you can buy everything you need for SCA or reenactment.
> Maby it is even possible to make someting as eBay, and earn money with 
> it.....
> 

Oh, so maybe I should actually BE a fripper!  After speaking with a few 
theatrical costume designers I have pretty much decided to make a list with 
the intention of promoting the circulation of second hand theatrical, 
re-enactment garments and related props such as tents and banners.  My friend 
mentioned that after a show they often advertise a sale and places like the 
San Francisco Opera House also do the same so it might be nice for some of us 
to know about these things and possibly have a place to get rid of our old 
stuff too.  It is not something I wish to spend much time on or make money 
from, but it may be a useful service and if the list is not of any use then 
it can just die its natural death, like old clothes themselves.  I will put 
something to gether by the end of this month and send out invitations to 
theatrical groups, living history groups and costume guilds.  I am 
considering also advising commercial costume shops of the list but I am 
interested in keeping this list to historical/theatrical CLOTHING, not cheap 
party frocks, but such shops might be potential buyers of the things for 
sale.  

Thanks for you feedback.

Lisa

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 11/8/02 1:07:11 AM Pacific Standard Time, triade@kabelfoon.nl writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">One list where you can buy everything you need for SCA or reenactment.<BR>
Maby it is even possible to make someting as eBay, and earn money with it.....<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Oh, so maybe I should actually BE a fripper!&nbsp; After speaking with a few theatrical costume designers I have pretty much decided to make a list with the intention of promoting the circulation of second hand theatrical, re-enactment garments and related props such as tents and banners.&nbsp; My friend mentioned that after a show they often advertise a sale and places like the San Francisco Opera House also do the same so it might be nice for some of us to know about these things and possibly have a place to get rid of our old stuff too.&nbsp; It is not something I wish to spend much time on or make money from, but it may be a useful service and if the list is not of any use then it can just die its natural death, like old clothes themselves.&nbsp; I will put something to gether by the end of this month and send out invitations to theatrical groups, living history groups and costume guilds.&nbsp; I am considering also advising commercial costume shops of the list but I am !
interested in keeping this list to historical/theatrical CLOTHING, not cheap party frocks, but such shops might be potential buyers of the things for sale.&nbsp; <BR>
<BR>
Thanks for you feedback.<BR>
<BR>
Lisa</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian-ish Boots
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In a message dated 11/7/02 9:09:17 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
seamstrix@juno.com writes:


> I have found an on line source for boots that seem to be a pretty good
> version of a Victorian lace-up boot. They are made of leather (uppers, of
> course) and have a modest heel. The best part is that they come in a wide
> variety of sizes and are just under $50.00USD. I have received the pair
> that I ordered and the quality looks good but they seem to run a tad on
> the small size. They have lots of half sizes and if you are wondering
> about buying a size or a half size, go with the slightly larger option.
> Did I mention they also do W and WW? 
> 

A word of warning.  Roamans, (Like their Parent Company Lane Bryant) is 
notorious for listing items that are sold out.  The other problem I have with 
them is that, although they have W and WW sizes, the shanks on the boots 
generally aren't any larger than anything you can buy in the regular stores.  
So if you have large calves they never fit right.  I have just completed my 
annual fall ritual of attempting to buy $500.00 worth of boots and shoes, to 
find out that only $150.00 were available and that neither pair fit above my 
ankles.

Kit

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 11/7/02 9:09:17 PM Pacific Standard Time, seamstrix@juno.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I have found an on line source for boots that seem to be a pretty good<BR>
version of a Victorian lace-up boot. They are made of leather (uppers, of<BR>
course) and have a modest heel. The best part is that they come in a wide<BR>
variety of sizes and are just under $50.00USD. I have received the pair<BR>
that I ordered and the quality looks good but they seem to run a tad on<BR>
the small size. They have lots of half sizes and if you are wondering<BR>
about buying a size or a half size, go with the slightly larger option.<BR>
Did I mention they also do W and WW? <BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
A word of warning.&nbsp; Roamans, (Like their Parent Company Lane Bryant) is notorious for listing items that are sold out.&nbsp; The other problem I have with them is that, although they have W and WW sizes, the shanks on the boots generally aren't any larger than anything you can buy in the regular stores.&nbsp; So if you have large calves they never fit right.&nbsp; I have just completed my annual fall ritual of attempting to buy $500.00 worth of boots and shoes, to find out that only $150.00 were available and that neither pair fit above my ankles.<BR>
<BR>
Kit<BR>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian-ish Boots
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Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 11:46:39 EST
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In a message dated 11/8/02 6:40:50 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
kbaird@cableone.net writes:


> One place I have found similar boots in smaller sizes is the thrift
> store. Since I'm looking for 9's and 10's, it seems to me they always
> have size 5's there.

Kim,

Check E-Bay.  I am always looking for 8's and 9's.  And almost always get 
outbid on the 8's.  But the 9's and 10's I generally have pretty good luck 
with.

Kit

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 11/8/02 6:40:50 AM Pacific Standard Time, kbaird@cableone.net writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">One place I have found similar boots in smaller sizes is the thrift<BR>
store. Since I'm looking for 9's and 10's, it seems to me they always<BR>
have size 5's there.</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Kim,<BR>
<BR>
Check E-Bay.&nbsp; I am always looking for 8's and 9's.&nbsp; And almost always get outbid on the 8's.&nbsp; But the 9's and 10's I generally have pretty good luck with.<BR>
<BR>
Kit</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] costuming in rainy weather(was: Flying with a Parasol?)
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Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 09:44:58 -0800
Status: RO

To Ya'll-

Yesterday Mountain View (b/t San Francisco and San Jose) had its 
Centennial Celebration.  They needed costumed volunteers to be local 
period color and hand out commemorative items.  Well, it wasn't snowing 
or even very cold, but, it was our first winter storm and it just rained 
buckets and buckets!! Now, of course, my hem was all the way to the 
ground with a slight train (ha-ha a pun, the celebration was at their 
new *train* station) and it got absolutely soaked. Where it wicked up 
the back, it dried to a slight stain, which I'm hoping will hand wash 
out, once the weather gets dry enough to use the clothes line again. 
Now, my question: did women in "the old days" have rainy weather outfits 
in which the hems were slightly off the ground?

Thanks for listening to my tale of woe,

Theresa Eacker
(massive pruning ensues)
Rowena wrote:

> I am in upstate New York - 
> It has snowed about 3 times so far.    A lot of upstate shut down yesterday,
> as the wet snow and ice on the trees (that still have leaves on them)
> brought down a lot of limbs and power lines.   NYC just got rain.
> Rowena
> 
> 
>>I'm in NW Montana, although it's warmed up some since then.  We're back
>>to something a little more rational, although still definitely winter.
>>Blech!
>>--Sue
>>>>--sue, who thinks Puerto Rico sounds mighty fine about now....we've got
>>>>record cold temps this week--3 degrees above 0 this a.m. (that's
>>>>farenheit...about 30 degrees below freezing.  Not at all sure of what
>>>>the appropriate metric number would be, but d@mn! it's cold out!)
>>>>


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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costuming in rainy weather(was: Flying with a Parasol?)
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Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 18:36:47 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Gosh how this sounds like English re-enactment.... it rained EVERY time we did
a re-enactment this year. *pfooie*
Well, regarding your question, which period? which level of society? I believe
that bad weather answers have a lot to do with who you are supposed to be and
when.

Nicole

 --- Theresa Eacker <theresa@misc.com> wrote: > To Ya'll-
> 
> Yesterday Mountain View (b/t San Francisco and San Jose) had its 
> Centennial Celebration.  They needed costumed volunteers to be local 
> period color and hand out commemorative items.  Well, it wasn't snowing 
> or even very cold, but, it was our first winter storm and it just rained 
> buckets and buckets!! Now, of course, my hem was all the way to the 
> ground with a slight train (ha-ha a pun, the celebration was at their 
> new *train* station) and it got absolutely soaked. Where it wicked up 
> the back, it dried to a slight stain, which I'm hoping will hand wash 
> out, once the weather gets dry enough to use the clothes line again. 
> Now, my question: did women in "the old days" have rainy weather outfits 
> in which the hems were slightly off the ground?
> 
> Thanks for listening to my tale of woe,
> 
> Theresa Eacker
> (massive pruning ensues)


=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian-ish Boots
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Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 13:51:17 -0500
Status: RO

After however-many years of looking for Victorian-esque boots, I
recently ordered a pair of Grishko "Hungarian" boots with my Year-End
bonus.  (http://www.grishko.com/charactershoes.htm -- they're the lower
left-hand picture.)  They aren't cheap, and I don't have them yet as
they are a special-order/4-6 week delivery item and I just ordered them
last week, but I'd be happy to provide more info if anyone's interested.

--jen

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] costuming in rainy weather(was: Flying with a Parasol?)
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Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 19:31:42 +0000
Status: RO

I have wondered about this myself.  Not what people in mountain view would do (I 
would imagine that the time period is at most mid 1800's.  Things wouldn't have 
been organized any longer than that in california.)but what you guys in the 
areas with weather do.  I mean, you spend hours making yourself these great 
costumes out of fabulous fabrics and then have to cover them up most of the 
time.  I realize that this shows my inability to understand the whole snow thing 
or even rain more than a couple of times a year, but it has always puzzled me.  
And, I never understood the thread about capes.  So are you saying that people 
didn't wear capes ever?  I am doing Elizabethan now, should I forgo the cape?  
It is not a real issue right now because I count on menopause keeping me warm no 
matter what the weather.  but I can assure you that if this goes on too much 
longer I won't.

By the way, I am reading a really good book right now, The Other Bolyn Sister.  
It is a great costume book.  She talks about what clothing meant in that time.  
How Queen Kathrine set the fashion and then when Anne Boyln (how do you spell 
that) came into favor everybody started wearing french hoods and then Anne knew 
she was in trouble when everybody started wearing the headwear that Jane Seymore 
favored.  I highly recommend it.  Flying through almost hurricane strength winds 
last night I was much more concerned about Anne's pregnancies than I was about 
if the plane was going to be able to land and that is saying a lot.

Her description of Kathrine's dress at her divorce hearing was wonderful.  Which 
gets back to the previous topic because she used fur for lining.  You may have 
to cover your costumes, but I couldn't even consider using fur, wool or even 
silk.  maryann who is in a rainy sacramento 
> Gosh how this sounds like English re-enactment.... it rained EVERY time we did
> a re-enactment this year. *pfooie*
> Well, regarding your question, which period? which level of society? I believe
> that bad weather answers have a lot to do with who you are supposed to be and
> when.
> 
> Nicole
> 
>  --- Theresa Eacker <theresa@misc.com> wrote: > To Ya'll-
> > 
> > Yesterday Mountain View (b/t San Francisco and San Jose) had its 
> > Centennial Celebration.  They needed costumed volunteers to be local 
> > period color and hand out commemorative items.  Well, it wasn't snowing 
> > or even very cold, but, it was our first winter storm and it just rained 
> > buckets and buckets!! Now, of course, my hem was all the way to the 
> > ground with a slight train (ha-ha a pun, the celebration was at their 
> > new *train* station) and it got absolutely soaked. Where it wicked up 
> > the back, it dried to a slight stain, which I'm hoping will hand wash 
> > out, once the weather gets dry enough to use the clothes line again. 
> > Now, my question: did women in "the old days" have rainy weather outfits 
> > in which the hems were slightly off the ground?
> > 
> > Thanks for listening to my tale of woe,
> > 
> > Theresa Eacker
> > (massive pruning ensues)
> 
> 
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: nicole@kipar.org
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] costuming in rainy weather(was: Flying with a Parasol?)
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Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 12:54:39 -0800
Status: RO

To Nicole-

I was doing in early 1890's walking suit, I guess I had a middle-class 
look so I wouldn't have had some poor peon trundling behind me to hold 
up the skirt.  This was the first time I've done any portrayal in the 
rain, and, if I have anything to say about it, THE LAST TIME!!

Theresa Eacker

N Kipar wrote:

> Gosh how this sounds like English re-enactment.... it rained EVERY time we did
> a re-enactment this year. *pfooie*
> Well, regarding your question, which period? which level of society? I believe
> that bad weather answers have a lot to do with who you are supposed to be and
> when.
> 
> Nicole


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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costuming in rainy weather(was: Flying with a Parasol?)
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Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 19:23:32 +0000
Status: RO

N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote
>Gosh how this sounds like English re-enactment.... it rained EVERY time we did
>a re-enactment this year. *pfooie*

It did, oh yes, it did!

>Well, regarding your question, which period? which level of society? I believe
>that bad weather answers have a lot to do with who you are supposed to be and
>when.
>
>Nicole
>
Indeed - those who could afford clothing that would be seriously spoiled 
by rain and mud could also afford not to go out in it.

Jean

> --- Theresa Eacker <theresa@misc.com> wrote: > To Ya'll-
>>
>> Yesterday Mountain View (b/t San Francisco and San Jose) had its
>> Centennial Celebration.  They needed costumed volunteers to be local
>> period color and hand out commemorative items.  Well, it wasn't snowing
>> or even very cold, but, it was our first winter storm and it just rained
>> buckets and buckets!! Now, of course, my hem was all the way to the
>> ground with a slight train (ha-ha a pun, the celebration was at their
>> new *train* station) and it got absolutely soaked. Where it wicked up
>> the back, it dried to a slight stain, which I'm hoping will hand wash
>> out, once the weather gets dry enough to use the clothes line again.
>> Now, my question: did women in "the old days" have rainy weather outfits
>> in which the hems were slightly off the ground?
>>
>> Thanks for listening to my tale of woe,
>>
>> Theresa Eacker
>> (massive pruning ensues)
>
>
>=====
>Nicole Kipar M.A.
>URL: http://www.kipar.org/
>Email: nicole@kipar.org
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Everything you'll ever need on one web page
>from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
>http://uk.my.yahoo.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Forehead cloth/cross clothes
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Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 19:18:47 +0000
Status: RO

What is a kertch?  This is interesting because (as I said elsewhere) I 
pin my wimple to my headscarf, to stop it blowing back.

Jean


Kevin + Mara <lindo@radix.net> wrote
>So, has anyone come across references to cross cloths or forehead 
>cloths into the 18th century?  Or seen them in pictures?  How late do 
>these things go?  I've seen things that looked like some kind of 
>under-cap, and wondered what they were, but darn it all, at the moment 
>I can't remember where I saw them and what period.
>
>It does solve one problem for me -- what were 18th c. Scottish Highland 
>women wearing under their kertches?  I'd bet anything it was a forehead 
>cloth.  You can see something peeking out from under the edge of the 
>kertch in the Henwife picture; her kertch is clearly pinned to it at 
>the crown of her head.
>
>-- Mara
>
>
>At 08:24 PM 11/6/2002 +0000, you wrote:
>>On the basis of 5 minutes looking... We seem to have 3 headcovering 
>>items here.  There is the wired coif (earpieces just showing), the 
>>tight forehead cloth, and the loose hood-type item which fastens (or 
>>not, in the case of VISIT_METSU) around the neck.  I have a book of 
>>Allan Ramsay portraits which show a number of ladies, always at their 
>>best, in either a wired coif or the loose hood, but both showing hair 
>>under them.   Both the old and the sick are expected to need to keep 
>>warm and keep their heads well-wrapped - perhaps that is the function 
>>of the tight forehead cloth, and it is combined as appropriate with 
>>the fashion headcovering?
>>
>>Just an instant thought
>>
>>Jean
>
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Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 13:43:46 -0800
Status: RO


>I was doing in early 1890's walking suit, I guess I had a middle-class 
>look so I wouldn't have had some poor peon trundling behind me to hold up 
>the skirt.  This was the first time I've done any portrayal in the rain, 
>and, if I have anything to say about it, THE LAST TIME!!

I've seen Charles Dana Gibson pictures from the early 1900s, where the 
women are doing what looks like grabbing the middle of the back of their 
skirts in a handfull, to hold it out of the way of walking.  The pictures 
show them doing this in preference to grabbing the skirt in front anywhere, 
tho there's one picture showing a construction site where they even do grab 
their skirts in front as they walk on boards over construction trenches.


Kayta

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Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 13:38:16 -0800
Status: RO


>(I
>would imagine that the time period is at most mid 1800's.  Things wouldn't 
>have
>been organized any longer than that in California.)

Things started getting 'organized' in California in the very late 
1700s.  The cities of San Francisco and San Jose were founded in the 1770s, 
as I recall.  (But I grew up in California, and we had to learn that in 
school.)  So there were women in California dealing with our weather from 
at least the early 1800s, probably back as far as the late 1700s.

And, I never understood the thread about capes.  So are you saying that people
>didn't wear capes ever?  I am doing Elizabethan now, should I forgo the 
>cape?

It's not that 'they' didn't wear outerwear garments, it's just that many of 
us who do 'their' periods don't wear them because we live in places with 
climates other than the one in Northern Europe.

>  maryann who is in a rainy sacramento

For those of you not living in Northern California, we got winds up to 60 
miles per hour last night, with our first real rainstorm of the year.  We 
got a substantial percentage of our annual rainfall last night.  I'm just 
speculating, but I assume that in any period, previous to the modern one, 
any women living in California would want to stay dry if she had to go out 
in the rain, and that she would have had to deal with a muddy hem if her 
street wasn't paved, assuming she even had a street.  This would 
necessitate wearing either something waterproof or something wool, and we 
have had wool in California as long as we have had Europeans.

Kayta

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costuming in rainy weather(was: Flying with a Parasol?)
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Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 23:09:06 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote: > 

> Indeed - those who could afford clothing that would be seriously spoiled 
> by rain and mud could also afford not to go out in it.

Which brings me straight back to the very serious pondering ofthe question if I
am going to jack in re-enactment or give it another year's chance. Right now I
am for 'forget it all I really had it!' but then again, all those thousands and
thousands of pounds of gear... *sigh*

Did anyone else ever experience the I-am-deadly-tired-of-re-enactment clues
while still loving one's costumes?

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 18:19:14 -0500
Status: RO

--=====================_692123751==.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 08:22 PM 11/7/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>So maybe a list from all time periods that also allowed people to announce 
>their "yard sales" would be good?  What about the inclusion of costuming 
>books, old fabric staches etc.........do you think it would be too broad 
>to include, tents, banners and all second hand re-enactment gear.  Or 
>maybe just broadly textile related?

Well, maybe you could do what one of the fiber arts sites does -- host a 
bulletin board where people can post big, cumbersome stuff like tents etc.?

-- Mara
--=====================_692123751==.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
At 08:22 PM 11/7/2002 -0500, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite><font size=2>So maybe a list from
all time periods that also allowed people to announce their &quot;yard
sales&quot; would be good?&nbsp; What about the inclusion of costuming
books, old fabric staches etc.........do you think it would be too broad
to include, tents, banners and all second hand re-enactment gear.&nbsp;
Or maybe just broadly textile related?</font><font face="arial">
</blockquote><br>
Well, maybe you could do what one of the fiber arts sites does -- host a
bulletin board where people can post big, cumbersome stuff like tents
etc.?<br><br>
-- Mara</font></html>

--=====================_692123751==.ALT--

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costuming in rainy weather(was: Flying with a Parasol?)
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Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 15:18:48 -0800
Status: RO


> > Indeed - those who could afford clothing that would be seriously spoiled
> > by rain and mud could also afford not to go out in it.
>
>Which brings me straight back to the very serious pondering ofthe question 
>if I
>am going to jack in re-enactment or give it another year's chance. Right now I
>am for 'forget it all I really had it!' but then again, all those 
>thousands and
>thousands of pounds of gear... *sigh*
>
>Did anyone else ever experience the I-am-deadly-tired-of-re-enactment clues
>while still loving one's costumes?

Happens all the time.


Kayta

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] costuming in rainy weather(was: Flying with a
  Parasol?)
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Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 15:34:03 -0800
Status: RO

--=====================_27172406==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 03:18 PM 11/8/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>> > Indeed - those who could afford clothing that would be seriously spoiled
>> > by rain and mud could also afford not to go out in it.
>>
>>Which brings me straight back to the very serious pondering ofthe 
>>question if I
>>am going to jack in re-enactment or give it another year's chance. Right 
>>now I
>>am for 'forget it all I really had it!' but then again, all those 
>>thousands and
>>thousands of pounds of gear... *sigh*
>>
>>Did anyone else ever experience the I-am-deadly-tired-of-re-enactment clues
>>while still loving one's costumes?


Daily, if not hourly >; )


Gwyn Carnegie
University of California at Davis


--=====================_27172406==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
At 03:18 PM 11/8/2002 -0800, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite><blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>&gt;
Indeed - those who could afford clothing that would be seriously
spoiled<br>
&gt; by rain and mud could also afford not to go out in it.<br><br>
Which brings me straight back to the very serious pondering ofthe
question if I<br>
am going to jack in re-enactment or give it another year's chance. Right
now I<br>
am for 'forget it all I really had it!' but then again, all those
thousands and<br>
thousands of pounds of gear... *sigh*<br><br>
Did anyone else ever experience the I-am-deadly-tired-of-re-enactment
clues<br>
while still loving one's costumes?</blockquote></blockquote><br><br>
Daily, if not hourly &gt;; )<br><br>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
<font color="#0000FF"><b>Gwyn Carnegie<br>
</font><font size=2>University of California at Davis <br><br>
</font></b></html>

--=====================_27172406==_.ALT--

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] costuming in rainy weather(was: Flying with a Parasol?)
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Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 00:06:13 -0000
Status: RO

Jean wrote

> Indeed - those who could afford clothing that would be seriously
spoiled
> by rain and mud could also afford not to go out in it.
>

I think that that is only partially so; if you are thinking in terms
of the 'idle rich' then that may be accurate. But many of the rich
weren't idle, and time, tide and the Armada were not minded to call
the whole thing off so that the Lord Admiral didn't spoil his clothes.
Nor would Elizabeth have abandoned her claim to possess the heart and
stomach of a king of England at Tilbury for fear of getting wet, and
on a rather less fraught occasion Raleigh really did blow a small
fortune when he threw down his cloak for her to walk on.

best wishes
Stevie

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Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 19:02:29 -0500
Status: RO

Lee M Thompson-Herbert wrote:

> Heh.  I've been offending people lately with my, "That's right, I'm crippled.
> Now get over it, I have." attitude.  Which means I've also been thumbing my
> nose at people who say my costume adaptations aren't period.  When they quit
> getting vaccinations and taking antibiotics, I'll take that part seriously.

Why do you feel the need to offend anyone? I, for one, resent people
dressing for the express purpose of offending me. It's . . . offensive.
Which I thought was not a good thing to be. I understand people not wanting
to have to hide their braces or wheelchair or prosthetics, etc., that's just
plain common sense. And so is the urge to decorate or custom make such items
-- something we should see more of! But to take a "happy to offend you"
attitude with everyone, when only a minority of people are stupid or crass
enough to be offended by whatever someone else needs to stay
healthy/active/alive, is not productive for anyone. Nor would it be if the
majority of people were stupid or crass.

And if people are nasty about other people's clothing not being authentic
because it has to accommodate special foundation garments, wheelchairs,
crutches, or anything of the type -- well, they have the wrong priorities,
don't they? So why worry about them?

Gail Finke


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Nov  8 19:06:36 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Half price Vintage Vogue patterns
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Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 00:10:45 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,

The Vogue pattern website is offering half-price on their Vintage (and
other) patterns at:

http://www.voguepatterns.com/

and I've just acquired the one for the 1931 bias cut evening dress
which I have long yearned for.

best wishes
Stevie

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Nov  8 19:15:34 2002
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Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 00:20:20 -0000
Status: RO

Gail wrote:

> Lee M Thompson-Herbert wrote:
>
> > Heh.  I've been offending people lately with my, "That's right,
I'm crippled.
> > Now get over it, I have." attitude.  Which means I've also been
thumbing my
> > nose at people who say my costume adaptations aren't period.  When
they quit
> > getting vaccinations and taking antibiotics, I'll take that part
seriously.
>
> Why do you feel the need to offend anyone? I, for one, resent people
> dressing for the express purpose of offending me. It's . . .
offensive.

Actually, Lee never suggested that she felt the need to offend anyone,
much less that she dressed for the express purpose of offending
anyone. You have made an entirely unjustified inference from her
observations in a manner which I, for one, find ... offensive.

 Stevie Gamble

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Nov  8 20:43:32 2002
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From: Cascio Michael <rosenau5@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] tired of re-enacting
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Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 17:44:26 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Actually Nicole,
     I never got tired of re-enacting because the
babies came and I ran out of time.  I do still costume
and make my husband take me out to really fancy
restuarants, I volunteer to help costume the madrigals
at the local high school (where I get to sew the
costumes and then not have to store them and the high
school students are closer to pattern size) and I
volunteer at the local museum to help with the
reproduction clothing department.  This all keeps me
hopping and I get to do lots of different time
periods.  There is also a local theatre group that I
could costume if I wanted but my need for authenticity
doesn't match their desire for fast and dirty, close
is good enough, and it only has to hold together for 4
performances.
      How does everyone size up a pattern that is
several sizes too small?  Some of the patterns I
bought years ago are single size reproductions of
original patterns and are as much as 10 inches to
small around the bust.  Unfortunately the cut is
rather complicated so I can't just split the pattern
pieces horizontally and vertically and add inches that
way.  I'm also working around a DD so I'm relatively
top-heavy.  Do I size the pattern up to my general
size and then alter for the bust?  One of the
Wisconsin Historical patterns suggests adding 1/8 inch
around each pattern piece for each size you want to go
up.  Does that sound like a good idea?   Suggestions
welcome.
                                Cassandra

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Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 21:51:12 EST
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In a message dated 11/8/02 4:56:16 PM Pacific Standard Time, lindo@radix.net 
writes:


> Well, maybe you could do what one of the fiber arts sites does -- host a 
> bulletin board where people can post big, cumbersome stuff like tents etc.?
> 

Yes, a bulletin board is better suited to this.  I am somewhat new to who 
offers what.  Which fiber site are you referring to so I can see who provides 
the service?  Or can you suggest any well regarded bulletin board providers?  
I don't think anyone wants daily deliverys of what's for sale messages, but a 
place to quickly see what might be listed.  Thanks for the suggestion.

Lisa

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 11/8/02 4:56:16 PM Pacific Standard Time, lindo@radix.net writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Well, maybe you could do what one of the fiber arts sites does -- host a bulletin board where people can post big, cumbersome stuff like tents etc.?<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Yes, a bulletin board is better suited to this.&nbsp; I am somewhat new to who offers what.&nbsp; Which fiber site are you referring to so I can see who provides the service?&nbsp; Or can you suggest any well regarded bulletin board providers?&nbsp; I don't think anyone wants daily deliverys of what's for sale messages, but a place to quickly see what might be listed.&nbsp; Thanks for the suggestion.<BR>
<BR>
Lisa</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 21:54:24 -0500
Status: RO

        I don't know if the ladies in the olden days had shorter skirts
for rain or not, but please don't let the stain set in until you can use
your clothes line.  Even if you have to hang it over the shower rod, you
should wash it as soon after it was wet as possible.  It is best if you
can wash it before it ever dries but that is usually not possible.  Just
get it soaking now so you might get the stain out.  

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 19:06:10 -0800
Status: RO


>But to take a "happy to offend you"
>attitude with everyone, when only a minority of people are stupid or crass
>enough to be offended by whatever someone else needs to stay
>healthy/active/alive, is not productive for anyone. Nor would it be if the
>majority of people were stupid or crass.

Lee happens to be one of the musicians for my morris dance group, so I've 
seen her dress in a variety of styles, including Victorian (including an 
offensively-authentic Victorian bad-taste bonnet).  While she's out there 
with her usual choice of day-to-day clothes, it's not what I would call 
offensive.  In fact, I think the only people who would be offended by what 
she wears are the people who would be offended by whatever the younger 
generation is wearing this season.  You probably wouldn't be offended by 
it, nor, if you saw her and didn't know it was her, even think she was 
dressing to offend.  I think 'extreme' would be a better choice of words 
here, as she is always decently covered, always clean, and always polite 
unless someone starts off rude with her.


Kayta

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] tired of re-enacting
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Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 19:09:36 -0800
Status: RO

I suggest you buy a commercial pattern that has multiple sizes, and see how 
they do it.  It's not done just by adding the same amount of extra 
everywhere.  Once you see how it is done, you will be better able to do it 
yourself.

>       How does everyone size up a pattern that is
>several sizes too small?  Some of the patterns I
>bought years ago are single size reproductions of
>original patterns and are as much as 10 inches to
>small around the bust.  Unfortunately the cut is
>rather complicated so I can't just split the pattern
>pieces horizontally and vertically and add inches that
>way.  I'm also working around a DD so I'm relatively
>top-heavy.  Do I size the pattern up to my general
>size and then alter for the bust?  One of the
>Wisconsin Historical patterns suggests adding 1/8 inch
>around each pattern piece for each size you want to go
>up.  Does that sound like a good idea?   Suggestions
>welcome.
>                                 Cassandra
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do you Yahoo!?
>U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos
>http://launch.yahoo.com/u2
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Kayta

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Subject: [h-cost] Re-sizing patterns the easy photocopy way!
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Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 22:19:41 EST
Status: RO


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In a message dated 11/8/02 5:45:55 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
rosenau5@yahoo.com writes:


> How does everyone size up a pattern that is
> several sizes too small?  Some of the patterns I
> bought years ago are single size reproductions of
> original patterns and are as much as 10 inches to
> small around the bust.  Unfortunately the cut is
> rather complicated so I can't just split the pattern
> pieces horizontally and vertically and add inches that
> way.

Without getting into grading patterns, it is very easy to enlarge patterns by 
photocopying them on zoom.  And there is an easy method described to 
calculate the percentage of enlargement needed to achieve the desired size in 
a book I have on Traditional Designs for Hand Quilting by Keryn Emmerson.  It 
is based upon the metric system which works great with the percentage of 
enlargement options on photocopiers.  I'll type the instructions first then 
adapt them to show how to blow up a pattern to a particular bust size.

"Changing a Size"

Sometimes you will need to change the size of a design.  This is easily done 
on a photocopier, but how do you arrive at the right size?  Photocopies cost 
money, so do some calulating before you get there.

I always work in millimeters when making calculations, because it's possible 
to take very accurate measurements, and the calculations are much simpler 
than using fractions of an inch."

"Take an easy example:  The design measures 75mm and you need it to be 150mm. 
 Divide the desired measurement by the actual measurement to find the Scale 
Factor.  150/75=2

A photocopier increases and decreases by percentages; multiply the Scale 
Factor by 100 to find the percentage.  A Scale Factor of 2 means you want to 
increase the size by 200%.  A Scale Factor of .983 means you want to decrease 
the size by 98%.

Often it's hard to remember formulae, but is is easy.  There are only two 
numbers involved, and it's simiple to see if you've done the wrong thing.  If 
you want the design to be larger, the Scale Factor should be larger than 1, 
and therefore the percentage will be greater than 100%.  If the design is 
going to be smaller, the scale factor will be less than 1, and the percentage 
less than 100%."

"If the photocipier will only enlarge to 200%, you will need to increase in 
two stages."  (the next calculations are for a 217% enlargement)  "First 
enlarge the original by 200%; then make another enlargement, this time using 
the copy.  As it's already twice as big, you will only need to enlarge it by 
half the percentage above 200, so in this case, half of 17% is 8.5, which 
becomes 8 or 9."

So, say you have a pattern with a bust size of  32 inches and it needs to be 
36.  Get a measuring tape with imperial on one side and metric on the other.  
Look at 32 inches and flip the tape over and read the metric equivalent which 
is 82 centimeters and add a zero to give you 820mm.  You want the pattern to 
be 36 inches in the bust so look at 36 inches on the tape measure, flip it 
and you get 92 centimeters (approx) add a zero to give you 920mm.  So the 
pattern measures 820mm and you need it to be 920mm.  Divide the desired 
measure ment of 920 by actual pattern measurement of 820.  This equals 1.12.  
multiply this number by 100 which equals 112.  Now put the pattern in the 
copier and enlarge it to 112% and you will have your desired pattern size.

Rgds,

Lisa


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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 11/8/02 5:45:55 PM Pacific Standard Time, rosenau5@yahoo.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">How does everyone size up a pattern that is<BR>
several sizes too small?&nbsp; Some of the patterns I<BR>
bought years ago are single size reproductions of<BR>
original patterns and are as much as 10 inches to<BR>
small around the bust.&nbsp; Unfortunately the cut is<BR>
rather complicated so I can't just split the pattern<BR>
pieces horizontally and vertically and add inches that<BR>
way.</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Without getting into grading patterns, it is very easy to enlarge patterns by photocopying them on zoom.&nbsp; And there is an easy method described to calculate the percentage of enlargement needed to achieve the desired size in a book I have on Traditional Designs for Hand Quilting by Keryn Emmerson.&nbsp; It is based upon the metric system which works great with the percentage of enlargement options on photocopiers.&nbsp; I'll type the instructions first then adapt them to show how to blow up a pattern to a particular bust size.<BR>
<BR>
"Changing a Size"<BR>
<BR>
Sometimes you will need to change the size of a design.&nbsp; This is easily done on a photocopier, but how do you arrive at the right size?&nbsp; Photocopies cost money, so do some calulating before you get there.<BR>
<BR>
I always work in millimeters when making calculations, because it's possible to take very accurate measurements, and the calculations are much simpler than using fractions of an inch."<BR>
<BR>
"Take an easy example:&nbsp; The design measures 75mm and you need it to be 150mm.&nbsp; Divide the desired measurement by the actual measurement to find the Scale Factor.&nbsp; 150/75=2<BR>
<BR>
A photocopier increases and decreases by percentages; multiply the Scale Factor by 100 to find the percentage.&nbsp; A Scale Factor of 2 means you want to increase the size by 200%.&nbsp; A Scale Factor of .983 means you want to decrease the size by 98%.<BR>
<BR>
Often it's hard to remember formulae, but is is easy.&nbsp; There are only two numbers involved, and it's simiple to see if you've done the wrong thing.&nbsp; If you want the design to be larger, the Scale Factor should be larger than 1, and therefore the percentage will be greater than 100%.&nbsp; If the design is going to be smaller, the scale factor will be less than 1, and the percentage less than 100%."<BR>
<BR>
"If the photocipier will only enlarge to 200%, you will need to increase in two stages."&nbsp; (the next calculations are for a 217% enlargement)&nbsp; "First enlarge the original by 200%; then make another enlargement, this time using the copy.&nbsp; As it's already twice as big, you will only need to enlarge it by half the percentage above 200, so in this case, half of 17% is 8.5, which becomes 8 or 9."<BR>
<BR>
So, say you have a pattern with a bust size of&nbsp; 32 inches and it needs to be 36.&nbsp; Get a measuring tape with imperial on one side and metric on the other.&nbsp; Look at 32 inches and flip the tape over and read the metric equivalent which is 82 centimeters and add a zero to give you 820mm.&nbsp; You want the pattern to be 36 inches in the bust so look at 36 inches on the tape measure, flip it and you get 92 centimeters (approx) add a zero to give you 920mm.&nbsp; So the pattern measures 820mm and you need it to be 920mm.&nbsp; Divide the desired measure ment of 920 by actual pattern measurement of 820.&nbsp; This equals 1.12.&nbsp; multiply this number by 100 which equals 112.&nbsp; Now put the pattern in the copier and enlarge it to 112% and you will have your desired pattern size.<BR>
<BR>
Rgds,<BR>
<BR>
Lisa<BR>
<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Nov  8 22:41:22 2002
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From: Lee Thompson-Herbert <lee@retro.com>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fashion braces
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Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 20:04:03 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net> wrote:
> Lee M Thompson-Herbert wrote:
> 
> > Heh.  I've been offending people lately with my, "That's right, I'm crippled.
> > Now get over it, I have." attitude.  Which means I've also been thumbing my
> > nose at people who say my costume adaptations aren't period.  When they quit
> > getting vaccinations and taking antibiotics, I'll take that part seriously.
> 
> Why do you feel the need to offend anyone? I, for one, resent people
> dressing for the express purpose of offending me. It's . . . offensive.

I think you linked the two phrases a little more closely than I intended.
I meant that I do my dress as suits my needs, and thppt! to anyone who wants
to play stitch-counter around me.

The "offending" part was an incident that happened recently where I had to
explain to someone that there's a very small slide from being "sensitive"
to the handicapped and being patronizing.  An awful lot of people want to 
avoid certain subjects around you if you're crippled.  At least they do here
in Berkeley, CA.  They don't seem to realize that avoiding subjects like
"walking" or "dancing" when you're still the dance session organizer is 
outright _stupid_ as well as insulting.  That's where the, "Yes, I'm crippled.
Now get over it," comes in.

> Which I thought was not a good thing to be. I understand people not wanting
> to have to hide their braces or wheelchair or prosthetics, etc., that's just
> plain common sense. And so is the urge to decorate or custom make such items
> -- something we should see more of! But to take a "happy to offend you"
> attitude with everyone, when only a minority of people are stupid or crass
> enough to be offended by whatever someone else needs to stay
> healthy/active/alive, is not productive for anyone. Nor would it be if the
> majority of people were stupid or crass.

Remember the flamefest--I mean discussion on here about people wearing 
glasses?  There are certainly enough folks who think that authenticity
is first and foremost in costuming and so what if you're seriously 
incapacitated if you conform to their ideal of what reinactment should be.
Those people I'm quite happy to offend.  As I said, when they give up 
vaccinations and antibiotics, I'll give up my glasses and braces.
 
> And if people are nasty about other people's clothing not being authentic
> because it has to accommodate special foundation garments, wheelchairs,
> crutches, or anything of the type -- well, they have the wrong priorities,
> don't they? So why worry about them?

Because they pop up everywhere reinactment is done?  Every group has one 
or two.  I love to come across the music police at reinactments as well, 
because almost without exception 1) they aren't musicians and 2) they're
often _wrong_.  And if they get in my face, they'll get to find out why
both those things make it inappropriate for them to walk around criticizing
other people's work.  I don't go out of my way looking for bozos, but I 
don't mind telling them exactly what I think if they decide to bother me
either.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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From: Lee Thompson-Herbert <lee@retro.com>
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Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 20:06:33 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

"Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com> wrote:
> Gail wrote:
> > Lee M Thompson-Herbert wrote:
> > > Heh.  I've been offending people lately with my, "That's right,
> I'm crippled.
> > > Now get over it, I have." attitude.  Which means I've also been
> thumbing my
> > > nose at people who say my costume adaptations aren't period.  When
> they quit
> > > getting vaccinations and taking antibiotics, I'll take that part
> seriously.
> >
> > Why do you feel the need to offend anyone? I, for one, resent people
> > dressing for the express purpose of offending me. It's . . .
> offensive.
> 
> Actually, Lee never suggested that she felt the need to offend anyone,
> much less that she dressed for the express purpose of offending
> anyone. You have made an entirely unjustified inference from her
> observations in a manner which I, for one, find ... offensive.

Right.  If I'm actively _trying_ to offend the stitch-counters, there's
never any doubt about it.  But I usually only wear _those_ costumes to 
events where I know people who have their heads stuck in certain orfices
are going to be.  Clan MacDude and some of my other really wrong creations
were done for _my_ amusement.  That it happens to drive certain people into
a frenzy is just a side benefit. [grin]

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Subject: [h-cost] Wonderful photo exhibit
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Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 23:13:38 -0500
Status: RO

"A Fitting Time for Women." The setting is 1875-1900.  The photography is
outstanding. http://www.fittingtimeforwomen.com/html/index.html

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wonderful photo exhibit
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Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 21:08:16 -0800
Status: RO

If I understand this site correctly, this pair combined efforts to pose 
modern people in period clothing and historic sites?

I'm a little conflicted about this agenda: on the one hand, the people 
themselves _look_ modern, as do the poses (kind of that contrived 
spontaneity thing popular in some photographers' studios), so are we, 
the viewing public, supposed to understand it as a historically accurate 
view of how people behaved in natural settings?

On the other hand, since there are already photos from the period 
available using of-the-period techniques, are we to view this as a 
purely art work view of that time period and not attach any guidelines 
of accuracy to it?

On a related issue, SF Mod. Art Museum is running an exhibition of Lewis 
Carroll's approach to artsy, contrived-spontaneity staging of people in 
his life during the late 1800's.  It will be interesting to see the 
parallels between his work and what this couple in "A Fitting Time..." 
is working towards.

Penny, thanks for posting this site, it has much food for thought!!

Theresa Eacker


Penny Ladnier wrote:

> "A Fitting Time for Women." The setting is 1875-1900.  The photography is
> outstanding. http://www.fittingtimeforwomen.com/html/index.html
> 
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> http://www.costumeclassroom.com
> http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 22:47:22 -0700
Status: RO

Ooooh, burnout. Yes, indeedy.  Suffering from it in a major way, as a
matter of fact.  And with about the same symptoms as you,
Nicole....loving the costuming and the research and such, but wanting
most of the rest of it to go to h......
This list, and one or two others, are what have been keeping me sane.  I
can talk costuming and clothing and such to my heart's content with
people from all over the map, literally and historically, and it helps
remind me why I like doing this reenactment stuff (SCA, in my case) in
the first place.
What's keeping me active at all is a change in my focus (one of the
minor advantages of having such a wide time frame available in the
SCA).  I've learned, over the years, to get away from the faked,
glittery stuff (fun, but not what I'm after), and start really thinking
about clothing construction and all the wonderful little
details....blaming it squarely on people on this list like Drea, and her
Flemish outfits, or Robin, and her fitted gowns.  I don't feel like I'm
reinventing myself, so much as I am just finding out what fits
better....
--sue, who needs to teach herself cardweaving so she can finish the
edges of her sleeves for this competition next February......

N Kipar wrote:
> 
 
> Which brings me straight back to the very serious pondering ofthe question if I
> am going to jack in re-enactment or give it another year's chance. Right now I
> am for 'forget it all I really had it!' but then again, all those thousands and
> thousands of pounds of gear... *sigh*
> 
> Did anyone else ever experience the I-am-deadly-tired-of-re-enactment clues
> while still loving one's costumes?
> 
> Nicole
>
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Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 22:22:55 -0800
Status: RO

My wonderful husband has just finished a complete re-vamp of my website,
margospatterns.com.  Take a look!

Within the next week we will be adding several more sections, including his
article on Photographing Costumes, and mine on Why I Am No Longer A Member
of The Costume Police, as well as photos of the entries in the recent Iron
Dress Competition.  

Thanks, 

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Tired of re-enactment
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Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 08:26:45 -0000
Status: RO

>Which brings me straight back to the very serious pondering ofthe question
if I
am going to jack in re-enactment or give it another year's chance. Right now
I
am for 'forget it all I really had it!' but then again, all those thousands
and
thousands of pounds of gear... *sigh*

>Did anyone else ever experience the I-am-deadly-tired-of-re-enactment clues
while still loving one's costumes?

Oddly yes this year, do you think it is something in the English air ?

I've had a sad re-enactment year, and am trying to reasses where I want to
go with it , hence more role play for me as otherwise it is just dressing up
in costume (my opinion for me other might not feel this way) and I'm dog
tired of being told I have to be accurate for the public, who general doing
know Roman from Romansque or Anglo saxon from Viking, ontop of all this I'm
supposed to be pleased to do it despite not getting paid or expenses and I'm
sent lectures by event organisers on how I must be polite, funnily enough I
don't think I've ever been rude to anyone at a event unless they have been
very very rude to me !!

Sorry I'm ranting now. One of my best events was Teddy's coronation this
year, so little pressure, one can see the benefits of the SCA type
organisations !

Mel


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wonderful photo exhibit
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Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 03:34:08 -0500
Status: RO

Theresa,

I guess the artist value of their photos won me.  I love the set ups of the
shots and some of the comparisons of light and shadow.  I love photography
as an artform.  Getting the perfect shoot takes a good eye and talent.  This
couple got several wonderful shots.

Sometimes getting the perfect shot is just dumb luck as my third son
(computer major) proved to his girlfriend who is a photography major.  In
high school, his photo entry was the only one published in their school's
literary magazine.  Her entry wasn't published.  She was so mad at him.
This son has no talent with a camera.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Subject: [h-cost] kechers and tired of re-enacting
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Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2002 09:07:03 +0000
Status: RO

Hi Jean, kercht is another form of kercher, kerchef, kerchief, neckerchief, 
neckhandkerchief, it seems to be spelt differently in nearly all the 
probate, court rolls for the period 1600 -1700, either a folded square worn 
round the shoulders and pinned at front, or a shaped oval of fabric which 
fits more around the shoulders.

Yes Nicole, I've not done any reenacting this year, I was even tired of 
doing the tower of London, but I've done masses of sewing, mainly for other 
people. I may do a couple of days at Christmas but on a very small scale. 
Are you getting fed up?
regards
Joy

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tired of re-enactment
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Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 10:03:28 -0000
Status: RO

On 9 Nov 2002 at 8:26, Melanie Wilson wrote:

> Sorry I'm ranting now. One of my best events was Teddy's coronation
> this year, so little pressure, one can see the benefits of the SCA
> type organisations !

Well, if you want to try any more, just get in touch. 
Or email Teddy directly, of course. Not many of our 
dos are as big and posh as Coronation, but they're 
all relaxed, non-public, and so on. And Teddy's 
running the next one, so I'm sure he'd appreciate the 
support.




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Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 11:58:03 -0000
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>Or email Teddy directly, of course. Not many of our 
dos are as big and posh as Coronation, but they're 
all relaxed, non-public, and so on. 

I might well do that :)

Mel

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Company, unless specifically stated.



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Subject: [h-cost] On line exhibition - Reforming Fashion, 1850-1914
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Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 13:21:40 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,

There is a marvellous on-line exhibition 'Reforming Fashion,
1850-1914.  Politics, Health, and Art'
at:
http://costume.osu.edu/Reforming_Fashion/artistic_dress.htm

which has some lovely examples of Aesthetic Dress.

best wishes
Stevie




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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Nov  9 11:16:44 2002
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From: "Linda J. Thompson" <LindaJThompson@comcast.net>
Subject: [h-cost] tired of re-enacting,,pattern stuff
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Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2002 10:14:25 -0600
Status: RO

Cassandra,
When I took my pattern drafting classes at the rep years ago, I got a handout that showed 
  a method of upsizing a standard pattern using the industry calculation method for it. 
If you would like I will scan it and send it to you as an attachment to your private 
email.  If I remember it is about 2 or three pages.  Was not extremely complicated, and is 
more accurate than the split and spread method.

If any on else wants a copy, send me email and I will get a list together and send them 
all at once.
-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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Subject: [h-cost] Vintage Renaissance Court Herald Costume
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Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 16:43:29 -0000
Status: RO

Hi,
For those of you who like late Victorian /Edwardian Renaissancs
repros; one of several
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=978347804

best wishes
Stevie

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Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2002 12:07:48 -0500
Status: RO



Margo Anderson wrote:
> 
> My wonderful husband has just finished a complete re-vamp of my website,
> margospatterns.com.  Take a look!
> 
> Within the next week we will be adding several more sections, including his
> article on Photographing Costumes, and mine on Why I Am No Longer A Member
> of The Costume Police, as well as photos of the entries in the recent Iron
> Dress Competition.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Margo
> "One Tough Costumer"

Margo when I try to access the new site  this is the message I recieve.

Forbidden

You don't have permission to access /m/margoanderson.js on this server.

Diana
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Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2002 09:46:18 -0800
Status: RO

To Lalah-

I literally jumped up immediately upon reading your note and submerged 
the skirt in a basin of water, especially when you mentioned not letting 
the stain dry.  I want to thank you for the reminder and I do believe 
the stain is gone and the skirt pretty much looks good as new.  I 
worried about the issue of sizing on the fabric, maybe altering its 
quality, but the taffeta still looks pretty crisp.  Thanks again!!!

Theresa Eacker

Lalah T Tillinghast wrote:

>         I don't know if the ladies in the olden days had shorter skirts
> for rain or not, but please don't let the stain set in until you can use
> your clothes line.  Even if you have to hang it over the shower rod, you
> should wash it as soon after it was wet as possible.  It is best if you
> can wash it before it ever dries but that is usually not possible.  Just
> get it soaking now so you might get the stain out.  
> 
> Lalah
> Never give up, Never surrender
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 


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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tired of re-enactment
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Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 05:27:37 -0500
Status: RO

Oh gosh, I feel =SO= much better. All these months I thought it was only
me, and I didn't want to say anything! It has nothing to do with
"English air"! My disaffection started last winter and lasted until
about 2 months ago. I just didn't want anything more to do with any of
this, and I was about 3 seconds or one good argument away from putting
everything on eBay and just quitting. It was a dark, dark time around
here!

So, before I went that far, I just stopped doing anything remotely
history related. I live in an older house, so I started working on the
remodel jobs that I've put off because all my time and money had been
going to -The Hobby-. I read several really good fiction novels, not
history at all. I refused to watch anything on TV, either regular or
movies, that was based on history. I played a lot of games on my
computer. I did anything at all that would not remind me of living
history. Sometimes I didn't do anything at all, I just relaxed and slept
a lot. I did not sew anything. 

The result of my 6 month hiatus is that I feel completely refreshed and
ready to go at it again. This time however, I play to the level that
/I'm/ comfortable with, and have learned not to let myself get
overloaded or pulled in too many different directions by other people.
I've learned to show up sometimes with just my basket on my arm and a
stool to sit on, and let somebody else worry if all the gear and
equipment made it on site or not, or is there food and water, or does
the new person have a shirt to wear. If I still do these things, it's
because I /want/ to, not because I'm feeling pressured to do it. That's
a huge difference!

My advice to those who are feeling fed up with living history is to find
something else to do for a while that has _nothing at all_ to do with
The Hobby. Paint a room, plan a garden, buy a dog or take a trip,
anything that will get you out of this rut and into a new groove. 

Pax,

Linda


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Melanie Wilson
Sent: Saturday, November 09, 2002 3:27 AM
To: LIST H costume
Subject: [h-cost] Tired of re-enactment

>Which brings me straight back to the very serious pondering ofthe
question
if I am going to jack in re-enactment or give it another year's chance.
Right now
I  am for 'forget it all I really had it!' but then again, all those
thousands
And thousands of pounds of gear... *sigh*

>Did anyone else ever experience the I-am-deadly-tired-of-re-enactment
clues
while still loving one's costumes?

Oddly yes this year, do you think it is something in the English air ?

I've had a sad re-enactment year, and am trying to reasses where I want
to
go with it , hence more role play for me as otherwise it is just
dressing up
in costume (my opinion for me other might not feel this way) and I'm dog
tired of being told I have to be accurate for the public, who general
doing
know Roman from Romansque or Anglo saxon from Viking, ontop of all this
I'm
supposed to be pleased to do it despite not getting paid or expenses and
I'm
sent lectures by event organisers on how I must be polite, funnily
enough I
don't think I've ever been rude to anyone at a event unless they have
been
very very rude to me !!

Sorry I'm ranting now. One of my best events was Teddy's coronation this
year, so little pressure, one can see the benefits of the SCA type
organisations !

Mel




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I have often run into situations and people in the course of living history 
that made me question why I was doing what I was doing.  I started off in a 
really costume nazi group, and I must say I was glad it was like that, 
however, the woman who was in charge of costumes wanted to look better than 
everyone else so she often created rules based upon ulterior motives other 
han historical accuracy.  This was a medieval group and many people dressed 
very gothic in real life and many women wanted to have black dresses so this 
woman created a rule, after she already had made her black dress mind you, 
that no more black dresses could be made because the group would look better 
(it was a performance troupe) if there were a wide variety of dress colours 
used and black wasn't a very common colour.

Needless to say, us underlings grumbled for a year or so, but then.......she 
gained an enormous amount of weight and could no longer fit into her black 
dress and because she made the rule of no more black dresses, she could not 
make a new one!!!!

Those are the funny things that also happen that make me continue.

Have a break and enjoy your hobby again!

Cheers,

Lisa

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I have often run into situations and people in the course of living history that made me question why I was doing what I was doing.&nbsp; I started off in a really costume nazi group, and I must say I was glad it was like that, however, the woman who was in charge of costumes wanted to look better than everyone else so she often created rules based upon ulterior motives other han historical accuracy.&nbsp; This was a medieval group and many people dressed very gothic in real life and many women wanted to have black dresses so this woman created a rule, after she already had made her black dress mind you, that no more black dresses could be made because the group would look better (it was a performance troupe) if there were a wide variety of dress colours used and black wasn't a very common colour.<BR>
<BR>
Needless to say, us underlings grumbled for a year or so, but then.......she gained an enormous amount of weight and could no longer fit into her black dress and because she made the rule of no more black dresses, she could not make a new one!!!!<BR>
<BR>
Those are the funny things that also happen that make me continue.<BR>
<BR>
Have a break and enjoy your hobby again!<BR>
<BR>
Cheers,<BR>
<BR>
Lisa</FONT></HTML>

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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] tired of re-enacting,,pattern stuff
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Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2002 12:23:52 -0800
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Please send me one too.



Jennifer Sena
Distant Designs
http://home.teleport.com/~cedric/distdesi

I wont hurt you, I just want to dress you up!!




industry calculation method for it. If you would like I will
>scan it and send it to you as an attachment to your private email.  If I 
>remember it is about 2 or three pages.  Was not extremely complicated, and 
>is more accurate than the split and spread method.
>
>If any on else wants a copy, send me email and I will get a list together 
>and send them all at once.


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I just received the sheet on what my son has to wear for the Christmas 
program.  The play is set in the mid 1800's in Russia.  The suggestions for 
his part are dark pants, more formal attire, old hats, glasses, dark shoes or 
boots.  Does anyone have a recommendation for a pattern for that?  What type 
of fabric would you suggest also?  
This is not my area at all.  Thanks.  Oh, and they are only giving me less 
then 2 weeks before dress rehearsal.  
Thanks for all the help.
Kelly
m311@aol.com

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I just received the sheet on what my son has to wear for the Christmas program.&nbsp; The play is set in the mid 1800's in Russia.&nbsp; The suggestions for his part are dark pants, more formal attire, old hats, glasses, dark shoes or boots.&nbsp; Does anyone have a recommendation for a pattern for that?&nbsp; What type of fabric would you suggest also?&nbsp; <BR>
This is not my area at all.&nbsp; Thanks.&nbsp; Oh, and they are only giving me less then 2 weeks before dress rehearsal.&nbsp; <BR>
Thanks for all the help.<BR>
Kelly<BR>
m311@aol.com</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] mid 1800's Russian
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I just received the sheet on what my son has to wear for the Christmas =
program.  The play is set in the mid 1800's in Russia.  The suggestions =
for his part are dark pants, more formal attire, old hats, glasses, dark =
shoes or boots.  Does anyone have a recommendation for a pattern for =
that?  What type of fabric would you suggest also? =20
This is not my area at all.  Thanks.  Oh, and they are only giving me =
less then 2 weeks before dress rehearsal. =20


It sounds to me like the suggestions are intended to *prevent* you from =
having to sew anything. Most parents don't sew, and it doesn't seem like =
it's the kind of production that requires "period costuming"---just a =
similarity of look to give a feel of a time "other than now". =20

If your kid doesn't have any dark pants, dye some jeans black. Have him =
wear a button up dress shirt, and if you don't have anything at home =
that would make a suitable jacket, go to Goodwill (or regional =
substitute) and buy an old men's suit jacket. If you can find an old =
felt hat you are done.=20

I don't believe this is a situation where period patterns and fabric are =
required.

Denise, with 2 kids always needing costumes for school stuff

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<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">I just received the sheet on what my son has to =
wear for the=20
Christmas program.&nbsp; The play is set in the mid 1800's in =
Russia.&nbsp; The=20
suggestions for his part are dark pants, more formal attire, old hats, =
glasses,=20
dark shoes or boots.&nbsp; Does anyone have a recommendation for a =
pattern for=20
that?&nbsp; What type of fabric would you suggest also?&nbsp; <BR>This =
is not my=20
area at all.&nbsp; Thanks.&nbsp; Oh, and they are only giving me less =
then 2=20
weeks before dress rehearsal.&nbsp; <BR></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><FONT face=3D"Book Antiqua" size=3D3>It sounds to =
me like the=20
suggestions are intended to *prevent* you from having to sew anything. =
Most=20
parents don't sew, and it doesn't seem like it's the kind of production =
that=20
requires "period costuming"---just a similarity of look to give a feel =
of a time=20
"other than now".&nbsp; </FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><FONT face=3D"Book Antiqua"=20
size=3D3></FONT></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><FONT face=3D"Book Antiqua" size=3D3>If your kid =
doesn't have any=20
dark pants, dye some jeans black. Have him wear a button up dress shirt, =
and if=20
you don't have anything at home that would make a suitable jacket, go to =

Goodwill (or regional substitute) and buy an old men's suit jacket. If =
you can=20
find an old felt hat you are done. </FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><FONT face=3D"Book Antiqua"=20
size=3D3></FONT></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><FONT face=3D"Book Antiqua" size=3D3>I don't =
believe this is a=20
situation where period patterns and fabric are=20
required.</FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><FONT face=3D"Book Antiqua"=20
size=3D3></FONT></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><FONT face=3D"Book Antiqua" size=3D3>Denise, with 2 =

kids&nbsp;always needing costumes for school=20
stuff</FONT></DIV></FONT></FONT></BODY></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Nov  9 16:14:53 2002
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From: "Kim Baird" <kbaird@cableone.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] mid 1800's Russian
Message-ID: <000001c28835$1f7ac920$0201a8c0@kimathlon>
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Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 15:15:24 -0600
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Is this a one-time performance? Sounds like you shouldn't put in too
much effort. Here's my suggestion for a quick version of 1860 man's
formal attire:
 
Black wool trousers
            To be authentic, they would have a button fly, be a bit high
in the waist, and have NO crease in the front. Wear with suspenders.
White shirt
Bow tie (white or black)
Vest-white or brocade of some sort, fancy 
            Only the front needs to be good, the back won't be seen
under the coat
Black wool coat, preferably a cutaway style
Black leather shoes or boots
Hat ONLY if play is set outdoors. Men do not wear hats indoors. Or, he
could carry the hat inside. A derby or top hat would be fine.
White gloves, black walking stick-if you have some, to look more formal
 
You could find most of this in thrift stores, or make a simple version.
Except the formal coat-that's toughter. You might consider a formal wear
rental place.
 
Remember, anything that doesn't show can be inauthentic.
 
These patterns are good:
Laughing Moon California Pants
Ageless Patterns 1301 M, Men's Tail Coat, waist coat and trousers
 
Kim 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of M311@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, November 09, 2002 2:31 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] mid 1800's Russian
 
I just received the sheet on what my son has to wear for the Christmas
program.  The play is set in the mid 1800's in Russia.  The suggestions
for his part are dark pants, more formal attire, old hats, glasses, dark
shoes or boots.  Does anyone have a recommendation for a pattern for
that?  What type of fabric would you suggest also?  
This is not my area at all.  Thanks.  Oh, and they are only giving me
less then 2 weeks before dress rehearsal.  
Thanks for all the help.
Kelly
m311@aol.com

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<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3DArial =
FAMILY=3DSANSSERIF><span
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>Is this a =
one-ti</span></font><st1:PersonName><font
 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>m</span></font></st1:PersonName><=
font
color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>e =
perfor</span></font><st1:PersonName><font
 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>m</span></font></st1:PersonName><=
font
color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>ance? Sounds
like you shouldn&#8217;t put in too </span></font><st1:PersonName><font
 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>m</span></font></st1:PersonName><=
font
color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>uch effort.
Here&#8217;s </span></font><st1:PersonName><font color=3Dblack =
face=3DArial><span
 =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>m</span></font></st1:PersonName><=
font
color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>y suggestion
for a quick version of 1860 </span></font><st1:PersonName><font =
color=3Dblack
 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>m</span></font></st1:PersonName><=
font
color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>an&#8217;s
for</span></font><st1:PersonName><font color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span
 =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>m</span></font></st1:PersonName><=
font
color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>al =
attire:<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>=


<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>Black wool =
trousers<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'><span =
style=3D'mso-tab-count:1'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </span>To
be authentic, they would have a button fly, be a bit high in the waist, =
and
have NO crease in the front. Wear with =
suspenders.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>White =
shirt<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>Bow tie (white or =
black)<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>Vest&#8212;white or brocade of =
so</span></font><st1:PersonName><font
 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>m</span></font></st1:PersonName><=
font
color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>e sort,
fancy <o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'><span =
style=3D'mso-tab-count:1'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </span>Only
the front needs to be good, the back won&#8217;t be seen under the =
coat<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>Black wool coat, preferably a =
cutaway
style<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>Black leather shoes or =
boots<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>Hat ONLY if play is set outdoors. =
Men do
not wear hats indoors. Or, he could carry the hat inside. A derby or top =
hat
would be fine.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>White gloves, black walking =
stick&#8212;if
you have so</span></font><st1:PersonName><font color=3Dblack =
face=3DArial><span
 =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>m</span></font></st1:PersonName><=
font
color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>e, to look =
</span></font><st1:PersonName><font
 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>m</span></font></st1:PersonName><=
font
color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>ore =
for</span></font><st1:PersonName><font
 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>m</span></font></st1:PersonName><=
font
color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>al<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>=


<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>You could find =
</span></font><st1:PersonName><font
 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>m</span></font></st1:PersonName><=
font
color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>ost of this
in thrift stores, or </span></font><st1:PersonName><font color=3Dblack
 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>m</span></font></st1:PersonName><=
font
color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>ake a =
si</span></font><st1:PersonName><font
 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>m</span></font></st1:PersonName><=
font
color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>ple version.
Except the for</span></font><st1:PersonName><font color=3Dblack =
face=3DArial><span
 =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>m</span></font></st1:PersonName><=
font
color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>al coat&#8212;that&#8217;s
toughter. You </span></font><st1:PersonName><font color=3Dblack =
face=3DArial><span
 =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>m</span></font></st1:PersonName><=
font
color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>ight
consider a for</span></font><st1:PersonName><font color=3Dblack =
face=3DArial><span
 =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>m</span></font></st1:PersonName><=
font
color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>al wear
rental place.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>=


<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>Re</span></font><st1:PersonName><fo=
nt
 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>m</span></font></st1:PersonName><=
font
color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>e</span></font><st1:PersonName><f=
ont
 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>m</span></font></st1:PersonName><=
font
color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>ber,
anything that doesn&#8217;t show can be =
inauthentic.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>=


<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>These patterns are =
good:<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>Laughing Moon =
</span></font><st1:State><st1:place><font
  color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>California</span></font></st1:pla=
ce></st1:State><font
color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'> =
Pants<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>Ageless Patterns 1301 M, =
Men&#8217;s Tail
Coat, waist coat and trousers<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>=


<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>Ki</span></font><st1:PersonName><fo=
nt
 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'>m</span></font></st1:PersonName><=
font
color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-family:Arial;color:black'> <o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>=


<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D2 =
face=3DTahoma><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma'>-----Original =
Message-----<br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>From:</span></b> =
h-costume-admin@indra.com
[mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] <b><span =
style=3D'font-weight:bold'>On Behalf
Of </span></b>M311@aol.com<br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>Sent:</span></b> Saturday, November =
09, 2002
2:31 PM<br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>To:</span></b> =
h-costume@indra.com<br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>Subject:</span></b> [h-cost] mid =
1800's
Russian</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D3 =
face=3D"Times New Roman"><span
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D2 =
face=3DArial><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'>I just received the sheet =
on what my
son has to wear for the Christmas program.&nbsp; The play is set in the =
mid
1800's in Russia.&nbsp; The suggestions for his part are dark pants, =
more
formal attire, old hats, glasses, dark shoes or boots.&nbsp; Does anyone =
have a
recommendation for a pattern for that?&nbsp; What type of fabric would =
you
suggest also?&nbsp; <br>
This is not my area at all.&nbsp; Thanks.&nbsp; Oh, and they are only =
giving me
less then 2 weeks before dress rehearsal.&nbsp; <br>
Thanks for all the help.<br>
Kelly<br>
m311@aol.com</span></font><o:p></o:p></p>

</div>

</body>

</html>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Nov  9 17:30:49 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Website Update
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Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2002 14:34:35 -0800
Status: RO

Hi, this is Wayne, Margo's husband.

You wrote:

>Margo when I try to access the new site  this is the message I recieve.
>
>Forbidden
>
>You don't have permission to access /m/margoanderson.js on this server.
>
>Diana

Diana, what URL are you using?  When I go to http://www.margospatterns.com,
it works fine from here.  Are you perhaps using an old bookmark?  Because I
took the old web pages down when I put up the new site -- necessary,
because some of the pages have the same names.

Try using the URL above, and let me know if you still have problems.

Wayne
"One Tough Webmaster?"
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Nov  9 18:17:37 2002
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] mid 1800's Russian
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Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 15:00:53 -0800
Status: RO

At 3:13 PM -0600 11/9/02, Land of Oz wrote:
>I just received the sheet on what my son has to wear for the 
>Christmas program.  The play is set in the mid 1800's in Russia. 
>The suggestions for his part are dark pants, more formal attire, old 
>hats, glasses, dark shoes or boots.  Does anyone have a 
>recommendation for a pattern for that?  What type of fabric would 
>you suggest also? 
>This is not my area at all.  Thanks.  Oh, and they are only giving 
>me less then 2 weeks before dress rehearsal. 
>
>
>It sounds to me like the suggestions are intended to *prevent* you 
>from having to sew anything. Most parents don't sew, and it doesn't 
>seem like it's the kind of production that requires "period 
>costuming"---just a similarity of look to give a feel of a time 
>"other than now".
>
>If your kid doesn't have any dark pants, dye some jeans black. Have 
>him wear a button up dress shirt, and if you don't have anything at 
>home that would make a suitable jacket, go to Goodwill (or regional 
>substitute) and buy an old men's suit jacket. If you can find an old 
>felt hat you are done.
>

I agree -- it sounds to me like they're aiming for an old-fashioned 
"look" that can be put together from existing garments, not asking 
for serious historic costuming.  (I still remember the time in grade 
school when I had a minor bit-part  in a medievaloid play  and what 
my mother and I "threw together" as a medieval dress turned out to be 
embarrassingly more historic than anything even the leads were 
wearing ... but by the time I found this out, it was too late to tone 
it down.)

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Website Update
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Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 15:12:43 -0800
Status: RO

At 2:34 PM -0800 11/9/02, Margo Anderson wrote:
>Hi, this is Wayne, Margo's husband.
>
>You wrote:
>
>>Margo when I try to access the new site  this is the message I recieve.
>>
>>Forbidden
>>
>>You don't have permission to access /m/margoanderson.js on this server.
>>
>>Diana
>
>Diana, what URL are you using?  When I go to http://www.margospatterns.com,
>it works fine from here.  Are you perhaps using an old bookmark?  Because I
>took the old web pages down when I put up the new site -- necessary,
>because some of the pages have the same names.
>
>Try using the URL above, and let me know if you still have problems.

I cut and pasted the url you give above, got the opening page (about 
whether you want the high or low resolution version), then when it 
automatically sent me to the frames version, I get the menu display 
on the left (but with no active links) an in the main display frame 
"Forbidden  you don't have permission to access /m/margoanderson.js 
on this server".  If I click on the low-resolution link from the 
opening screen, I get nothing at all.  (I'm using Netscape with 
JavaScript enabled, if it matters.)

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 18:58:15 EST
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In a message dated 11/9/2002 4:13:42 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
landofoz@netins.net writes:


> If your kid doesn't have any dark pants, dye some jeans black. 

Don't do that! What a pain! Go to Good Will or the Salvation Army store and 
buy him some used pants.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 11/9/2002 4:13:42 PM Eastern Standard Time, landofoz@netins.net writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Book Antiqua" LANG="0"><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">If your kid doesn't have any dark pants, dye some jeans black. </FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Book Antiqua" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR>Don't do that! What a pain! Go to Good Will or the Salvation Army store and buy him some used pants.</FONT></HTML>

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Heather Rose Jones wrote:

>I cut and pasted the url you give above, got the opening page (about 
>whether you want the high or low resolution version), then when it 
>automatically sent me to the frames version, I get the menu display 
>on the left (but with no active links) an in the main display frame 
>"Forbidden  you don't have permission to access /m/margoanderson.js 
>on this server".  If I click on the low-resolution link from the 
>opening screen, I get nothing at all.  (I'm using Netscape with 
>JavaScript enabled, if it matters.)
>
>Heather

Thanks -- even though that's not what I wanted to hear.

I can see I'll have to do a bit more digging on this... I hope to have it
worked out soon.

Wayne
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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In a message dated 11/9/2002 4:15:38 PM Eastern Standard Time,=20
kbaird@cableone.net writes:


Very Good! Please allow me [who has done this A LOT] to elaborate....

> Black wool trousers [Good Will]
>             To be authentic, they would have a button fly, be a bit high i=
n=20
> the waist, [you can undo the seam, if there is one, in the back of the=20
> waistband and it will ride up a little like the real thing] and have NO=20
> crease in the front.[ NO crease in the front....just wanted to restate tha=
t
> ] Wear with suspenders. [Pref. button ones]
> White shirt
> Bow tie (white or black) [or if it's earlier, like 1840, flip the collar u=
p=20
> and take a piece of silk [or fancy fabric] about 8" to 10" wide and 45"=20
> long and wrap it around his neck....start with the middle of the piece in=20
> the front and wrap around in both directions, maybe more than once, and ti=
e=20
> in a bow or square knot at front]

> Vest=E2=80=94white or brocade of some sort, fancy [Check out formal wear r=
entals.=20
> NO CUMBERBUNS]
>             Only the front needs to be good, the back won=E2=80=99t be see=
n under=20
> the coat

> Black wool coat, preferably a cutaway style [Formal wear rentals again]
> Black leather shoes or boots
> Hat ONLY if play is set outdoors. Men do not wear hats indoors. Or, he=20
> could carry [Halloween just past....you may be able to find a good cheep=20
> top hat]


Have fun!





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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR=3D"#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3D3=
>In a message dated 11/9/2002 4:15:38 PM Eastern Standard Time, kbaird@cable=
one.net writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>Very Good! Please allow me [who has done this A LOT] to elaborate....
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Ar=
ial" LANG=3D"0">
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" SIZE=3D3 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Ar=
ial" LANG=3D"0"><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=3DCITE style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px so=
lid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Black wool trou=
sers <I>[Good Will</I>]</FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SA=
NSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" SIZE=3D3 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Ar=
ial" LANG=3D"0"> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;To be authentic, they would have a button fly, be a bit high in the w=
aist, <I>[you can undo the seam, if there is one, in the back of the waistba=
nd and it will ride up a little like the real thing]</I> and have NO crease=20=
in the front.[ <I>NO crease in the front....just wanted to restate that</I>]=
 Wear with suspenders. <I>[Pref. button ones]</I>
<BR>White shirt
<BR>Bow tie (white or black) <I>[or if it's earlier, like 1840, flip the col=
lar up and take a piece of silk [or fancy fabric] about 8" to 10" wide and 4=
5" long and wrap it around his neck....start with the middle of the piece in=
 the front and wrap around in both directions, maybe more than once, and tie=
 in a bow or square knot at front]</I><BR>Vest=E2=80=94white or brocade of s=
ome sort, fancy [<I>Check out formal wear rentals. NO CUMBERBUNS]</I>
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Only=20=
the front needs to be good, the back won=E2=80=99t be seen under the coat<BR=
>Black wool coat, preferably a cutaway style <I>[Formal wear rentals again]<=
/I>
<BR>Black leather shoes or boots
<BR>Hat ONLY if play is set outdoors. Men do not wear hats indoors. Or, he c=
ould carry <I>[Halloween just past....you may be able to find a good cheep t=
op hat]</FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" SIZE=3D3 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=
=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0"></BLOCKQUOTE></I>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>Have fun!
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR=3D"#000000" SIZE=3D3 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Ar=
ial" LANG=3D"0">
<BR>
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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In a message dated 11/9/2002 5:19:56 PM Central Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> I don't believe this is a situation where period patterns

They all know I sew and don't mind if I use a period costume.  I want a 
period costume, or as close as I can get.  Last year I did a great Abe 
Lincoln for him.  The cut was period even if all the materials weren't.  If I 
don't come up with something looking period the custome mother will find his 
stuff to wear.  
Kelly
m311@aol.com

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 11/9/2002 5:19:56 PM Central Standard Time, h-costume-request@indra.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I don't believe this is a situation where period patterns</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
They all know I sew and don't mind if I use a period costume.&nbsp; I want a period costume, or as close as I can get.&nbsp; Last year I did a great Abe Lincoln for him.&nbsp; The cut was period even if all the materials weren't.&nbsp; If I don't come up with something looking period the custome mother will find his stuff to wear.&nbsp; <BR>
Kelly<BR>
m311@aol.com</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2002 20:39:24 -0500
Status: RO

I also have netscape, and had the same problem.  I pressed on the links,
nothing happened.  I then hit back on my browser, and the site came up.  From
there, everything worked.  It was strange!

Jenne

Margo Anderson wrote:

>
> Thanks -- even though that's not what I wanted to hear.
>
> I can see I'll have to do a bit more digging on this... I hope to have it
> worked out soon.
>
> Wayne
> "One Tough Costumer"
>
> See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Website Update
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Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2002 18:13:27 -0800
Status: RO

I'm using Mozilla, a pre-release version yet, and worked OK for me.

liz

Justine Magill wrote:

>I also have netscape, and had the same problem.  I pressed on the links,
>nothing happened.  I then hit back on my browser, and the site came up.  From
>there, everything worked.  It was strange!
>
>Jenne
>
>Margo Anderson wrote:
>
>>Thanks -- even though that's not what I wanted to hear.
>>
>>I can see I'll have to do a bit more digging on this... I hope to have it
>>worked out soon.
>>
>>Wayne
>>"One Tough Costumer"
>>
>>See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
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>


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Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 19:40:22 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


> Hi, this is Wayne, Margo's husband.
> 
> You wrote:
> 
> >Margo when I try to access the new site  this is the message I recieve.
> >
> >Forbidden
> >
> >You don't have permission to access /m/margoanderson.js on this server.
> >
> >Diana
> Diana, what URL are you using?  When I go to http://www.margospatterns.com,
> it works fine from here.  Are you perhaps using an old bookmark?  Because I
> took the old web pages down when I put up the new site -- necessary,
> because some of the pages have the same names.
> 
> Try using the URL above, and let me know if you still have problems.

I've seen that error happen before if the browser chokes on your JavaScript
code.  Older versions of Netscape are more prone to it (but suprisingly, 
my old version doesn't, so that's not it this time).  My version of IE has
an odd problem that I've also seen before.  The menu in your side frame 
doesn't have a scrollbar.  This is bad, because not everyone has the same
size screen.  The last few entries are simply inaccessable if you can't make
the window large enough.  That and the tiny fontsize problem usually both
show up when someone has a large monitor that they're working on.  It doesn't
occur to the developer that some of the rest of us still use smaller screens.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 21:27:35 -0600
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If your kid doesn't have any dark pants, dye some jeans black.=20
  Don't do that! What a pain! Go to Good Will or the Salvation Army =
store and buy him some used pants.=20
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
I dye lots of things at home and don't find it to be a pain at all. I =
wouldn't recommend a course of action if I thought it was "a pain" or =
inappropriate in other ways.=20

For me, dyeing something is preferable to a 45 minute drive by =
interstate highway to the nearest Goodwill store.=20

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</HEAD>
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<DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 face=3D"Book Antiqua" =
color=3D#000000=20
size=3D3 FAMILY=3D"SERIF">If your kid doesn't have any dark pants, dye =
some jeans=20
black. </FONT><FONT lang=3D0 face=3D"Book Antiqua" color=3D#000000 =
size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SERIF"></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV></FONT><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size=3D3=20
  FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">Don't do that! What a pain! Go to Good Will or =
the=20
  Salvation Army store and buy him some used pants.</FONT>=20
</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV><FONT =
face=3DArial>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D</FONT></=
DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>I dye lots of things at home and don't find it =
to be a=20
pain at all. I wouldn't recommend a course of action if I thought it was =
"a=20
pain" or inappropriate in other ways. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>For me, dyeing something&nbsp;is preferable to a =
45 minute=20
drive by interstate highway to the nearest Goodwill store.=20
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Nov  9 23:41:39 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] The Romance of French Weaving
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Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 23:40:48 EST
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I have just come across a delightful book called "The Romance of French 
Weaving" by Paul Rodier published in 1936, copyright 1931, last checked out 
from the college library in 1986.  It is a narrative of the history of French 
weaving and the growth of the textile industry in general set amongst a 
picturesque landscape with the royal families of Europe being woven through 
the story.  It is sort of like a Danielle Steel book without the sex, only 
merchant's scandals.  Is any one familiar with it to know how accurate the 
facts are?  Has anyone ever come across this before?

Lisa


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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I have just come across a delightful book called "The Romance of French Weaving" by Paul Rodier published in 1936, copyright 1931, last checked out from the college library in 1986.&nbsp; It is a narrative of the history of French weaving and the growth of the textile industry in general set amongst a picturesque landscape with the royal families of Europe being woven through the story.&nbsp; It is sort of like a Danielle Steel book without the sex, only merchant's scandals.&nbsp; Is any one familiar with it to know how accurate the facts are?&nbsp; Has anyone ever come across this before?<BR>
<BR>
Lisa<BR>
<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Margo's Patterns Website Update
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Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2002 21:04:54 -0800
Status: RO

OK, this is Wayne again, doing triage on the new "Margo's Patterns" website.

My sincere thanks to Lee, Diana, Heather, and others giving me feedback on
the site.

It looks like some people are having some trouble accessing it at all, and
others are having some other glitches.  There is no scrolling on the navbar
on the left because I set the frame properties to NOSCROLL.  I figured the
extra width (and ugliness) of a scroll bar would be unwelcome, and people
with screen resolutions bigger than 1024 x 768 could see the whole thing
anyway -- that's the display setting on the computer I used to develop this
website.

If a lot of people think this would be better with a scroll bar enabled
there, I'll put it in.  For now, I need to know a little more:

How many people are having trouble accessing the website?  And are they
getting "You don't have permission" messages like Diana, or are there other
error messages as well?  (That seems to be a problem between her browser
and the Java script for the counter.  Since the counter doesn't seem to be
working anyway, I think I'll take it out until I find another.)   Is the
whole website (except the counter) working for anybody?  Please reply
directly to Margo@Margospatterns.com, rather than to the h-costume list.

Thanks for your help; it's appreciated.

Wayne

>
>> Hi, this is Wayne, Margo's husband.
>> 
>> You wrote:
>> 
>> >Margo when I try to access the new site  this is the message I recieve.
>> >
>> >Forbidden
>> >
>> >You don't have permission to access /m/margoanderson.js on this server.
>> >
>> >Diana
>> Diana, what URL are you using?  When I go to http://www.margospatterns.com,
>> it works fine from here.  Are you perhaps using an old bookmark?  Because I
>> took the old web pages down when I put up the new site -- necessary,
>> because some of the pages have the same names.
>> 
>> Try using the URL above, and let me know if you still have problems.
>
>I've seen that error happen before if the browser chokes on your JavaScript
>code.  Older versions of Netscape are more prone to it (but suprisingly, 
>my old version doesn't, so that's not it this time).  My version of IE has
>an odd problem that I've also seen before.  The menu in your side frame 
>doesn't have a scrollbar.  This is bad, because not everyone has the same
>size screen.  The last few entries are simply inaccessable if you can't make
>the window large enough.  That and the tiny fontsize problem usually both
>show up when someone has a large monitor that they're working on.  It doesn't
>occur to the developer that some of the rest of us still use smaller screens.
>
>Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
>Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
>Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
>"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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From: "Cynthia Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] New historic patterns
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Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 10:22:06 -0600
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Simplicity and Butterick Holiday pattern catalogs arrived at my JoAnn's =
Fabrics and Crafts store.  Simplicity has a new trio of patterns from =
"The Fashion Historian" series by Martha McCain. #5724 is a Civil =
War-era ball gown. #5726 is the coordinating shift, corset, and =
hoopskirt.  #5740 is headwear to coordinate with McCain's previous Civil =
War era patterns. =20

Butterrick has a ladies Revolutionary War era pattern, gown, caraco, and =
petticoat. In cut, it appears more modern interpretation of the real =
thing, but there is some boning in the bodices. =20

Once they go on sale $1.99 or $.99, the Buttericks especially might be =
worth it to those that can take a modern pattern that fits and recut it =
to the correct historic lines(I do this for dolls all the time, so that =
method in dolly sizes works for me)
Cindy Abel
ILL Coordinator
Health Sciences Library
Creighton University
1912 CALIFORNIA ST
OMAHA NE 68178-0210
VOICE: 402.280.5144
FAX: 402.280.5134
brujne@creighton.edu
1912 CALIFORNIA ST
OMAHA NE 68178-0210
VOICE:402-280-5144
FAX:   402-280-5134
brujne@creighton.edu
Omaha NE 68178-0210
Phone: 402. 280-5144
Fax:     402.280-5134
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<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dwindows-1252">
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Simplicity and Butterick Holiday pattern catalogs =
arrived at=20
my JoAnn's Fabrics and Crafts store.&nbsp; Simplicity has a new trio of =
patterns=20
from "The Fashion Historian" series by Martha McCain. #5724 is a Civil =
War-era=20
ball gown. #5726 is the coordinating shift, corset, and hoopskirt.&nbsp; =
#5740=20
is headwear to coordinate with McCain's previous Civil War era =
patterns.&nbsp;=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Butterrick has a ladies Revolutionary War era =
pattern, gown,=20
caraco, and petticoat. In cut, it appears more modern interpretation of =
the real=20
thing, but there is some boning in the bodices.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Once they go on sale $1.99 or $.99, the Buttericks =
especially=20
might be worth it to those that can take a modern pattern that fits and =
recut it=20
to the correct historic lines(I do this for dolls all the time, so that =
method=20
in dolly sizes works for me)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Cindy Abel<BR>ILL Coordinator<BR>Health Sciences=20
Library<BR>Creighton University<BR>1912 CALIFORNIA ST<BR>OMAHA NE=20
68178-0210<BR>VOICE: 402.280.5144<BR>FAX: 402.280.5134<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:brujne@creighton.edu">brujne@creighton.edu</A><BR>1912 =
CALIFORNIA=20
ST<BR>OMAHA NE 68178-0210<BR>VOICE:402-280-5144<BR>FAX:&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
402-280-5134<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:brujne@creighton.edu">brujne@creighton.edu</A><BR>Omaha =
NE=20
68178-0210<BR>Phone: 402. 280-5144<BR>Fax:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
402.280-5134</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wonderful photo exhibit
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Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 07:55:47 -0500
Status: RO

Theresa wrote:
> If I understand this site correctly, this pair combined efforts to pose 
> modern people in period clothing and historic sites?
> 
> I'm a little conflicted about this agenda: on the one hand, the people 
> themselves _look_ modern, as do the poses (kind of that contrived 
> spontaneity thing popular in some photographers' studios), so are we, 
> the viewing public, supposed to understand it as a historically accurate 
> view of how people behaved in natural settings?

Hrm, yeah, I agree that the people look modern.  I find myself thinking
"what is it that makes them look modern?" and seeing how I can apply it
to my own costume-related activities. 

The things that stand out for me, are the childrens' hairstyles, the way
people are standing/sitting with what looks like the wrong posture, and
the fact that the photographs are sepia-toned and meant to look
old-fashioned and yet they catch people in moments that would have
looked like a blur using 19th century photography techniques.  I thought
that people sitting for photographs at that time had to stand totally
still for quite a long time for the long exposures?

K.

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Margo's Patterns Website Update
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Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 13:51:01 +0100
Status: RO

Hi Margo,
Your new website worked fine for me.
May i congratulate you with it, it looks great!

Bjarne


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Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 14:00:31 +0100
Status: RO

http://costume.osu.edu/Reforming_Fashion/trouble_with_fashion.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>

Dear Stevie.
The costumes are wonderfull. Take a look at this corset, (Url) above black
satin corset. It is incredible, oh my how they must have suffered!
The reproduktion bustle on the bottom is well made, but it is a pitty, they
made it two narrow! They did not get the right proportions, this is a pitty,
because they made a great job!

Bjarne


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Subject: [h-cost] dress diary updated
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Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 14:44:31 +0100
Status: RO

Hi there,
For those of you who would like to follow my dress diary, it has ben
updated:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/robealafrancaise.htm
I tryed to use the blitz on my digital camera. but the embroidery got much
two bright, still you can se how it looks, even if it is rather dull weather
here in Denmark.

Many greetings

Bjarne


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Nov 10 09:03:38 2002
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Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 07:03:43 -0700
Status: RO

Oh, my, Bjarne....beautiful as always!
Do you use a hoop or frame to hold the fabric while you're doing the
embroidery? Did you end up having enough green thread? How many hours
does it take you to _do_ all that? I'm not nearly as fast as you
are...my bits get done 10 mins. here, 15 mins. there, etc., although I
try to dedicate an hour or two a night to it...
Also, it's dull and dreary weather here in Montana, too, and as we're,
what, 8000 miles apart? <g> I rather think maybe it's because it's
November? and not because you're in Denmark, per se?
Besides, that embroidery would brighten up any winter day.....
--Sue, taking a break from her blackwork

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> 
> Hi there,
> For those of you who would like to follow my dress diary, it has ben
> updated:
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/robealafrancaise.htm
> I tryed to use the blitz on my digital camera. but the embroidery got much
> two bright, still you can se how it looks, even if it is rather dull weather
> here in Denmark.
> 
> Many greetings
> 
> Bjarne
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] On line exhibition - Reforming Fashion, 1850-1914
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Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 14:07:38 -0000
Status: RO

Bjarne wrote:

> http://costume.osu.edu/Reforming_Fashion/trouble_with_fashion.htm
>

> The costumes are wonderfull. Take a look at this corset, (Url) above
black
> satin corset. It is incredible, oh my how they must have suffered!

I'm glad you liked the costumes, but as for the corset, Ouch! I walked
over to the Museum of London yesterday to see if I could get some
ideas for my Georgian ball-gown, and had another look at the Victorian
acrobat's corset whilst I was there. Not only did she corset down to a
tiny waist but also performed on the high-wire and trapeze in it.
Ouch! I say again.

> The reproduktion bustle on the bottom is well made, but it is a
pitty, they
> made it two narrow! They did not get the right proportions, this is
a pitty,
> because they made a great job!

 I have no intention of ever wearing a bustle, but I should be
interested to know how you calculate the width of it for it. Does the
heigjht of the person make a difference?

best wishes
Stevie


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Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 14:42:37 -0000
Status: RO

Bjarne wrote:

> For those of you who would like to follow my dress diary, it has ben
> updated:
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/robealafrancaise.htm

This is very lovely work, Bjarne. The colour painting
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/savoy.htm shows what look like pearls
swagged on the panels. Is that so, and were pearls still worn towards
the end of the century? I enquire because I have mumble kilos of
freshwater pearls originally intended for Elizabethan.

 best wishes
Stevie



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In a message dated 11/9/2002 10:28:29 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
landofoz@netins.net writes:


> I dye lots of things at home and don't find it to be a pain at all. I 
> wouldn't recommend a course of action if I thought it was "a pain" or 
> inappropriate in other ways. 
>  
> For me, dyeing something is preferable to a 45 minute drive by interstate 
> highway to the nearest Goodwill store. 
> 

Ahhhhh...Good Will is just down the street from me. And I have a small 
kitchen so dying is definitely a pain...for me. 

The infinitely subtle dynamics of costuming.....

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 11/9/2002 10:28:29 PM Eastern Standard Time, landofoz@netins.net writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I dye lots of things at home and don't find it to be a pain at all. I wouldn't recommend a course of action if I thought it was "a pain" or inappropriate in other ways. 
<BR> 
<BR>For me, dyeing something is preferable to a 45 minute drive by interstate highway to the nearest Goodwill store. 
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR>Ahhhhh...Good Will is just down the street from me. And I have a small kitchen so dying is definitely a pain...for me. 
<BR>
<BR>The infinitely subtle dynamics of costuming.....</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 16:37:16 +0100
Status: RO

Dear Stevie.
I have thoaght much of this decoration on the dress. I am not sure if this
is pearls or it is embroidered to look like pearls. But it stands out as if
it is real pearls.
I have seen embroidery where it was embroidered pearls with shadow and
everything, to give the impression, as if it was real pearls.
How much would it weight with sead pearls?
Dont you think it would be two heavy?

Bjarne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2002 3:42 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress diary updated


> Bjarne wrote:
>
> > For those of you who would like to follow my dress diary, it has ben
> > updated:
> > http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/robealafrancaise.htm
>
> This is very lovely work, Bjarne. The colour painting
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/savoy.htm shows what look like pearls
> swagged on the panels. Is that so, and were pearls still worn towards
> the end of the century? I enquire because I have mumble kilos of
> freshwater pearls originally intended for Elizabethan.
>
>  best wishes
> Stevie
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 15:57:56 -0000
Status: RO

Bjarne wrote, about :

http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/savoy.htm

> I have thoaght much of this decoration on the dress. I am not sure
if this
> is pearls or it is embroidered to look like pearls. But it stands
out as if
> it is real pearls.

Yes, that was my thought.

> I have seen embroidery where it was embroidered pearls with shadow
and
> everything, to give the impression, as if it was real pearls.
> How much would it weight with sead pearls?
> Dont you think it would be two heavy?

The scale of these pearls is much too big for seed pearls, but if you
want to do a rough calculation of how many of those swags there are on
the dress I can try weighing some for you. My pearls are loose strung,
so it's not a major job:-)

best wishes
Stevie


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Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 17:00:45 +0100
Status: RO

Hello Sue.
I use a large frame. I baught one from Barnyarns in York. It is called a
roller tilt frame. I can sit comfortable in my favourite sofa and push the
frame to a comfortable angle. Then i have all my threads and sissors to my
right and i am very difficult to move away from this :-)
I do spend a lot of time with it. Having a hard fysical work, it is very
relaxing for me to sit with the embroidery. I take care of old people, old
senile people so it is both fysically and mentally very hard sometimes. I
rarely go out to dine or to drink coffe, neither do i go to the cinemas. I
do go to the opera 3-4 times in a winter season, but most nights i stay home
and work with my hobby. It is wonderfull to relax this way, and i can follow
the television or listen to all my classical music cd's
You must realise that i dont have pets and children to take care of, so i
have a lot of sparetime for myself.
It is me who goes shopping and makes the dinner every day, but this is the
only duty i have. The rest of time is mine alone!
Yes it is the november weather and light, very depressing. They have already
broaght some christmas catalogs to the doors.
Apropos the thread, no there was some days i missed the green, but i have
had it. I really regreats that i did not use this Eterna thread for my
embroidered suit. If i had used this, i would have finished it much quicker.
When i look at this thread i used for it from Pipers, i cant keeping say to
myself that it was really really chrasy of me to use such a thin thread. No
wonder it took me so long time to make it.
Still, we all grow wiser for each day, dont we :-)

Bjarne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2002 3:03 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress diary updated


> Oh, my, Bjarne....beautiful as always!
> Do you use a hoop or frame to hold the fabric while you're doing the
> embroidery? Did you end up having enough green thread? How many hours
> does it take you to _do_ all that? I'm not nearly as fast as you
> are...my bits get done 10 mins. here, 15 mins. there, etc., although I
> try to dedicate an hour or two a night to it...
> Also, it's dull and dreary weather here in Montana, too, and as we're,
> what, 8000 miles apart? <g> I rather think maybe it's because it's
> November? and not because you're in Denmark, per se?
> Besides, that embroidery would brighten up any winter day.....
> --Sue, taking a break from her blackwork
>
> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> >
> > Hi there,
> > For those of you who would like to follow my dress diary, it has ben
> > updated:
> > http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/robealafrancaise.htm
> > I tryed to use the blitz on my digital camera. but the embroidery got
much
> > two bright, still you can se how it looks, even if it is rather dull
weather
> > here in Denmark.
> >
> > Many greetings
> >
> > Bjarne
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 17:04:19 +0100
Status: RO

The scale of these pearls is much too big for seed pearls, but if you
want to do a rough calculation of how many of those swags there are on
the dress I can try weighing some for you. My pearls are loose strung,
so it's not a major job:-)

Sorry Stewie
I didnt mean seed pearls, but fresh water pearls.
No i dont want you to calculate, i only wondered generally if it would not
be two heavy for the skirts.
What do you think?

Bjarne

best wishes
Stevie




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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Nov 10 11:30:44 2002
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Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 16:34:10 -0000
Status: RO

Bjarne wrote:

> I didnt mean seed pearls, but fresh water pearls.
> No i dont want you to calculate, i only wondered generally if it
would not
> be two heavy for the skirts.
> What do you think?

I think that if the original skirt would  had pearls on it then it
would be good to use them on a modern reproduction; your exquisite
workmanship deserves pearls:-) Pearls are heavy, but so is metal and
that was used extensively also. I assume that the silk fabric would
have been interlined for strength, and that the embroidery would have
been onto panels perhaps of some stronger material? I have made metal
trim of mumble kilos, also, which I thought I might be able to use on
late 18th-early 19th.

best wishes
Stevie

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Nov 10 11:48:38 2002
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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Yahoo's at it again
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Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 11:13:32 -0500
Status: RO

Please forgive the crossposting, but I wanted to let everyone know that
Yahoo is up to their old dirty tricks again. If you don't want to be
tracked all over cyberspace, take a look at this page:

http://privacy.yahoo.com/privacy/us/pixels/details.html

There is an opt out button included, but you will have to do it on each
computer and browser that you use. I realize that not all lists are
Yahoo lists, but most of us are on at least one of them.

Remember to check your personal preferences page occasionally as well.
Yahoo sometimes takes the liberty of clicking all the "send me crap"
boxes without our knowledge or permission. 

Pax,

Linda


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Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 17:38:29 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,
I've been looking at an example of this on the Kyoto Costume
Institute:
http://www.kci.or.jp/collection/collset-e.html
it's the featured gown on the 1780's digital archive in white and red
pekin striped silk. Can anyone point me to more information, and more
pictures of this type of gown?
Many thanks and best wishes
Stevie

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Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 13:30:25 -0500
Status: RO


Lee:

I guess I took your words too literally, always a danger with email. Sorry,
I didn't mean to offend you.

Gail Finke


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Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 10:42:34 -0800
Status: RO

Hi, everybody, it's Wayne again.

First, my thanks to all of you who responded with feedback on the new
website.  It's been a huge help, and you'll see I'm taking your comments
seriously.

I've made the following changes so far:

1) I've removed the Java counter script, from both the hi-resolution and
low-resolution versions of the home page.  It looks like the company that
hosted the counter (when I first activated it, months ago) is offline now,
so it's not working.  As far as I can tell, MS Internet Explorer simply
ignores it and goes on, but Netscape chokes if it can't access the site.
So, since it wasn't doing any good anyway, it's gone.  I'll be looking for
a new counter soon.

2) I've enabled scrolling on the navbar on the left in the hi-res version.
It's set to AUTO, which means it should give a scroll bar when the browser
can't show the whole frame.  Since I made the navbar graphic a lot bigger
than it needed to be, to give space for future expansion, it'll show the
scrollbar for everybody, even with big monitors.  If you scroll down you'll
see a lot of white space down there.

3) I've corrected the links from Margo's bio to her personal website.  The
problem was that I had left the "http://" out of the URL, so it was trying
to find that URL in the local directory.

I know Egroups has been swallowed by Yahoo Groups, and I'll change that
link in the navbar, but since the navbar is an image-mapped graphic, it'll
take a bit longer than just tweaking code.  Also, the links to correction,
layout, etc, will be added to the "Notes and Addenda" page.

Thanks again for all your help.  Another round of feedback, telling me if
any problems remain, would be welcomed.

Wayne
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 12:51:32 -0600
Status: RO

Wow,
You did a fantastic job... Also, I absolutely love your picture of dissatisfaction.  :D

-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 14:41:14 -0500
Status: RO




> 
> Hi, everybody, it's Wayne again.

> Thanks again for all your help.  Another round of feedback, telling me if
> any problems remain, would be welcomed.

Wayne it works beautifully!!  Great looking site.

Diana
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Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 23:43:51 +0100
Status: RO


Dear Stevie.
This is a polonaise dress. Very pretty and very shocking in colour. There
are other examples of this type of dress in Janet Arnold's patterns of
fashion, also in Norah Waugh's The Cut of Womens Clothes.
If you would like, i could scan some patterns, pictures and send you.
The polonaise dress had two drawstrings inside the overskirt, at the back
where it pulled up the skirt so that it draped the dress in 3 swags. A
bumroll was worn with this type of dress, wich had the greatest padding
center back.
It originally had its fashion from a robe a la francaise where the two snips
of the overskirt was pulled trough the pocket slits and draped the overskirt
in a similar matter.

Are you looking for some outfits for the Bath Ball?

Bjarne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2002 6:38 PM
Subject: [h-cost] robe retroussèe dans les poches


> Hi all,
> I've been looking at an example of this on the Kyoto Costume
> Institute:
> http://www.kci.or.jp/collection/collset-e.html
> it's the featured gown on the 1780's digital archive in white and red
> pekin striped silk. Can anyone point me to more information, and more
> pictures of this type of gown?
> Many thanks and best wishes
> Stevie
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 19:32:58 -0500
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HI Bjarne,

I can't tell you how impressed I am with your wonderful embroideries.  I
just wanted to know the difference between the threads you are using.  I
have heard of this Eterna thread but never actually seen or used it.
Your impressions would be gratefully appreciated.  Thanks,  Anne (who
has been lurking on this site for over a year and is thrilled with all
the neat information and gorgeous garb)


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Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 22:28:00 -0500
Status: RO



Bjarne:

Thanks so much for sharing your beautiful work again! You have such amazing
talents, you are like all the 17th century tailoring and sewing specialists
in one person. I think it's easy to see how much you love the work.

I like my life very much, although what I do leaves me very little time for
concentrating on any one project. I love embroidery and hope to do it again
someday, but I am very inferior to you. But sometimes I really envy people
who can concentrate on one thing for long periods of time. It is very
different from what I am able to do!

Gail Finke


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This pattern reminds me of the movie A Christmas Carol but what date is that 
set in?  Anyone know?  What date can this be used for?  <A HREF="http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?search=&TI=10013&UK=20315132&M=&pageSize=9&s.nextPage.10.x=26&s.nextPage.10.y=7">Butterick 3648</A>
Thanks,
Kelly

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">This pattern reminds me of the movie A Christmas Carol but what date is that set in?&nbsp; Anyone know?&nbsp; What date can this be used for?&nbsp; <A HREF="http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?search=&TI=10013&UK=20315132&M=&pageSize=9&s.nextPage.10.x=26&s.nextPage.10.y=7">Butterick 3648</A><BR>
Thanks,<BR>
Kelly</FONT></HTML>

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In a message dated 11/10/2002 10:39:33 PM Eastern Standard Time, M311@aol.com 
writes:


> This pattern reminds me of the movie A Christmas Carol but what date is that 
> set in?  Anyone know?  What date can this be used for?  <A HREF="http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?search=&TI=10013&UK=20315132&M=&pageSize=9&s.nextPage.10.x=26&s.nextPage.10.y=7">Butterick 3648</A>
> 

Not bad...though no wing tip collars in this period.

It IS "A Christmas Carol" since it comes with a Ghost of Christmas Present 
costume pattern as well.

Let's see...."A Christmas Carol" was published in 1843 or 1845....there 
abouts. So if Scrooge is in his 50s [you don't want him too old! What good 
would the lessons be?] that makes the Belle scenes around the 1810s [I once 
was wardrobe master for a production where the Fezzywig party scene was 
1760s!!!! This make Scrooge about 90!!!!]. These are your 2 main periods. 
[Christmas Future is usually only one or two years into the future]

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>In a message dated 11/10/2002 10:39:33 PM Eastern Standard Time, M311@aol.com writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">This pattern reminds me of the movie A Christmas Carol but what date is that set in? &nbsp;Anyone know? &nbsp;What date can this be used for? &nbsp;<A HREF="http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?search=&TI=10013&UK=20315132&M=&pageSize=9&s.nextPage.10.x=26&s.nextPage.10.y=7">Butterick 3648</A>
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR>Not bad...though no wing tip collars in this period.
<BR>
<BR>It IS "A Christmas Carol" since it comes with a Ghost of Christmas Present costume pattern as well.
<BR>
<BR>Let's see...."A Christmas Carol" was published in 1843 or 1845....there abouts. So if Scrooge is in his 50s [you don't want him too old! What good would the lessons be?] that makes the Belle scenes around the 1810s [I once was wardrobe master for a production where the Fezzywig party scene was 1760s!!!! This make Scrooge about 90!!!!]. These are your 2 main periods. [Christmas Future is usually only one or two years into the future]</FONT></HTML>

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From: kris <ionization@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wonderful photo exhibit
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Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 21:56:46 -0800
Status: RO

Could someone perhaps post the link? it's not included here, and I must 
have missed the original post in my (yay!) computer upgrade..

kris

At 07:55 AM 09/11/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Theresa wrote:
> > If I understand this site correctly, this pair combined efforts to pose
> > modern people in period clothing and historic sites?
> >
> > I'm a little conflicted about this agenda: on the one hand, the people
> > themselves _look_ modern, as do the poses (kind of that contrived
> > spontaneity thing popular in some photographers' studios), so are we,
> > the viewing public, supposed to understand it as a historically accurate
> > view of how people behaved in natural settings?

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wonderful photo exhibit
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Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 01:13:47 -0500
Status: RO

Kris,

Here it is http://www.fittingtimeforwomen.com/html/index.html

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 22:20:42 +1300
Status: RO

 However,
> my finger splints have gotten so many comments that I'm fairly sure I
could
> make money selling them as fashion accessories.  They're a slightly
different
> design from the ones on this page:
> http://www.silverringsplint.com/hyperextension.html

I need some rather nicer versions of the splints for my triggering, these
look better, but I'm thinking I might just use what I have now and work on
something myself.
http://www.silverringsplint.com/triggering.html

And yes, triggering is pretty nasty and painful. Most of my fingers trigger
during the worst of my flares, but my right middle finger hasn't stopped for
months now. I still wake up and can't use that finger. Gets better during
the day, but it still triggers.

heheh, actually my hand physio got her student to come and see as it's not
something she's likely to see too often before getting out there and needing
to treat people with it. Course there's bugger all physio can do to help,
immobilising and reducing inflamation are about all you can do.

> Heh.  I've been offending people lately with my, "That's right, I'm
crippled.
> Now get over it, I have." attitude.  Which means I've also been thumbing
my
> nose at people who say my costume adaptations aren't period.  When they
quit
> getting vaccinations and taking antibiotics, I'll take that part
seriously.

lol! I just get annoyed that people can't see you simply cannot be 100%
period correct. Not only are we too far from the time and have our
perceptions coloured by our own experiences and collected histories, but
getting materials to be untainted by modern technology is nigh on
impossible. There is always another line that someone will snark you from;)

I do quite like the idea of experimenting with what could possibly be done
in perod. But I'm not giving up things that will cause me to be deformed
before need be:)

btw, I knew your comments weren't one thought, it is a problem when
communicating without the inflections, body language and indeed pauses that
occur in speech faec to face or even over the phone.

It;s why I tend to over use smilies and ...'s :)

michaela
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce
http://recital.tripod.com/costume


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] costuming in rainy weather(was: Flying with a
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Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 09:20:22 +0000
Status: RO

Didn't some 19th century women wear a washable edging tacked to the hem of their skirts? Though I suppose this was more to gather dust; it wouldn't stop rain wicking up.
I seem to remember in Jane Austen's "Emma" there's something about the gentry not going out because of bad weather (though of course it's OK to send a servant with a message to say you're not coming!)

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] costuming in rainy weather(was: Flying with a
	Parasol?)
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Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 09:30:04 +0000
Status: RO

Maryann wrote:

>And, I never understood the thread about capes.  So are you saying that >people didn't wear capes ever?  I am doing Elizabethan now, should I >forgo the cape?  

What I said was that I had been told, in a talk on 17th century costume, that there are few period illustrastions of women in cloaks (men certainly wore them). Someone else said the same, but we thought it surprising that a cloak would not be worn in wet weather.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby


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Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 09:38:11 +0000
Status: RO

Nicole wrote:

>Did anyone else ever experience the I-am-deadly-tired-of-re-enactment >clues while still loving one's costumes?

I have to say that I love reenactment for its own sake and the costumes are just the means to an end. Of course I hate bad weather like everyone else (though I've not been too unlucky this year) and I increasingly dislike long car journeys, but I love being in the open air with like-minded friends and I enjoy talking to the public (a few really interested ones make it all worth while).


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby


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References: <3DCC9840.8030109@misc.com> <00eb01c287a6$618ac340$0400a8c0@centrl01.va.comcast.net> <3DCC9840.8030109@misc.com> <5.2.0.9.0.20021110215602.00b35c70@shawmail>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wonderful photo exhibit
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Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 07:13:59 -0500
Status: RO

The link:

http://www.fittingtimeforwomen.com/html/page3.html

Lloyd Mitchell (for Kathleen)

----- Original Message -----
From: "kris" <ionization@shaw.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 12:56 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wonderful photo exhibit


> Could someone perhaps post the link? it's not included here, and I must
> have missed the original post in my (yay!) computer upgrade..
>
> kris
>
> At 07:55 AM 09/11/2002 -0500, you wrote:
> >Theresa wrote:
> > > If I understand this site correctly, this pair combined efforts to
pose
> > > modern people in period clothing and historic sites?
> > >
> > > I'm a little conflicted about this agenda: on the one hand, the people
> > > themselves _look_ modern, as do the poses (kind of that contrived
> > > spontaneity thing popular in some photographers' studios), so are we,
> > > the viewing public, supposed to understand it as a historically
accurate
> > > view of how people behaved in natural settings?
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 05:47:23 -0800 (PST)
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> From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
[...] 
> I need some rather nicer versions of the splints for my triggering, these
> look better, but I'm thinking I might just use what I have now and work on
> something myself.
> http://www.silverringsplint.com/triggering.html

Okay, I took some quick and dirty pics of the splints with my digital
camera.  For a 10 minute webpage, it's not bad:
http://www.retro.com/employees/lee/RingSplint.html

The bandaid on my finger is part of my lesson for the week:  Never teach
the kitten that your fingers are play toys.  Especially if you haven't 
trimmed his claws in a couple weeks. [yeep!]

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Greetings All!

Is anyone on this list in a wheelchair, either part time or full time?  Or do 
you know somebody who is?  I was just wondering, what sort of concessions do 
you make for your period clothes?  (Any period will do.)

I have a good friend who wants to return to the SCA (and eventually 
Regency/Victorian/Edwardian stuff as well) but she is now wheelchair bound 
and is having difficulty figuring out what concessions she will have to make 
for her old costumes.  She used to try to be very authentic, and did almost 
strictly Elizabethan clothing.  She wishes to continue both veins as much as 
possible.  So I am trying to help her make adjustments.  I told her I would 
ask this list, especially since we seem to be having this conversation 
anyway.

Any help would be appreciated, since I am at a complete loss.

Thank you in advance,
Kit

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">Greetings All!<BR>
<BR>
Is anyone on this list in a wheelchair, either part time or full time?&nbsp; Or do you know somebody who is?&nbsp; I was just wondering, what sort of concessions do you make for your period clothes?&nbsp; (Any period will do.)<BR>
<BR>
I have a good friend who wants to return to the SCA (and eventually Regency/Victorian/Edwardian stuff as well) but she is now wheelchair bound and is having difficulty figuring out what concessions she will have to make for her old costumes.&nbsp; She used to try to be very authentic, and did almost strictly Elizabethan clothing.&nbsp; She wishes to continue both veins as much as possible.&nbsp; So I am trying to help her make adjustments.&nbsp; I told her I would ask this list, especially since we seem to be having this conversation anyway.<BR>
<BR>
Any help would be appreciated, since I am at a complete loss.<BR>
<BR>
Thank you in advance,<BR>
Kit</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 11:56:53 -0500
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This message is in MIME format.  Since your mail reader does not understand
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<<<Is anyone on this list in a wheelchair, either part time or full
time?>>>      

  I have a very good friend who is wheelchair bound and she does both
earlier medieval and Elizabethan.  She found that skirts kept getting
caught in her wheels, but now she just uses a skirt (or skirts) fronts. 
She puts it on like an apron and I didn't know for a year that it wasn't
a compleat skirt.  The only reason I found out last week was that she
needed help getting it tied in back.  Don't know if this helps or not,
but I found it interesting.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
----__JNP_000_56bb.64b8.6a73
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<DIV>&lt;&lt;&lt;<FONT size=3D2>Is anyone on this list in a wheelchair, =
either=20
part time or full=20
time?&gt;&gt;&gt;</FONT>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp; I have a very good friend who is wheelchair bound and she does =
both=20
earlier medieval and Elizabethan.&nbsp; She found that skirts kept getting=
=20
caught in her wheels, but now she just uses a skirt (or skirts) fronts.&=
nbsp;=20
She puts it on like an apron and I didn't know for a year that it wasn't=20
a&nbsp;compleat skirt.&nbsp; The only reason I found out last week was that=
 she=20
needed help getting it tied in back.&nbsp; Don't know if this helps or not,=
 but=20
I found it interesting.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Lalah<BR>Never give up, Never surrender<BR></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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In a message dated 11/9/02 8:17:51 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
LindaJThompson@comcast.net writes:


> If any on else wants a copy, send me email and I will get a list together 
> and send them 
> all at once.

Linda,

I would love to get a copy!

Thanks,
Kit

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 11/9/02 8:17:51 AM Pacific Standard Time, LindaJThompson@comcast.net writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">If any on else wants a copy, send me email and I will get a list together and send them <BR>
all at once.</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Linda,<BR>
<BR>
I would love to get a copy!<BR>
<BR>
Thanks,<BR>
Kit</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tired of re-enactment
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In a message dated 11/9/02 12:23:46 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com writes:


> >Did anyone else ever experience the I-am-deadly-tired-of-re-enactment clues
> while still loving one's costumes?

I believe that everyone does at some point in time.  For me I can clock it.  
Every 5 years I get tired of reenactment.  (Whether it be the time or money 
constrait, the politics or the sh**ty-attitudes of other people.)   Then 
depending on my level of involvement, I either back out to a token event here 
or there, or pullout completely, getting rid of all my costumes and "get on 
with my life."  In this case, I don't think you are much different from the 
rest of us.  :)

I always find the hard part is going back.  Example: I am just returning to 
the SCA after a burn out phase.  This time around, it was so bad that I 
refused to look at my rapier gear, wouldn't listen to my period music, packed 
up my period cookbooks and (shock of all shocks) didn't even want to look at 
my sewing machines or fabric.  Now, I finally broken out of that just to find 
I have basically no costumes that fit.  I don't want to have to rush getting 
anything completed, which was the straw that broke the camel's back last 
time.  So now that I have finally found my muse again, and I actually want to 
be involved in something, but I am fighting with the fact that I filled up 
all my costuming/SCA time with other things.  :(  However, I am about to be 
unemployed and am looking forward to having a few weeks off to do nothing but 
sew!

Kit

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 11/9/02 12:23:46 AM Pacific Standard Time, MelanieWilson@bigfoot.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">&gt;Did anyone else ever experience the I-am-deadly-tired-of-re-enactment clues<BR>
while still loving one's costumes?</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
I believe that everyone does at some point in time.&nbsp; For me I can clock it.&nbsp; Every 5 years I get tired of reenactment.&nbsp; (Whether it be the time or money constrait, the politics or the sh**ty-attitudes of other people.)&nbsp;&nbsp; Then depending on my level of involvement, I either back out to a token event here or there, or pullout completely, getting rid of all my costumes and "get on with my life."&nbsp; In this case, I don't think you are much different from the rest of us.&nbsp; :)<BR>
<BR>
I always find the hard part is going back.&nbsp; Example: I am just returning to the SCA after a burn out phase.&nbsp; This time around, it was so bad that I refused to look at my rapier gear, wouldn't listen to my period music, packed up my period cookbooks and (shock of all shocks) didn't even want to look at my sewing machines or fabric.&nbsp; Now, I finally broken out of that just to find I have basically no costumes that fit.&nbsp; I don't want to have to rush getting anything completed, which was the straw that broke the camel's back last time.&nbsp; So now that I have finally found my muse again, and I actually want to be involved in something, but I am fighting with the fact that I filled up all my costuming/SCA time with other things.&nbsp; :(&nbsp; However, I am about to be unemployed and am looking forward to having a few weeks off to do nothing but sew!<BR>
<BR>
Kit</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: [h-cost] Patterns for the mid 1600's
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Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 14:18:43 -0500
Status: RO


Greetings,
I have searched so many online pattern shops I think I am dizzy.  
What I did discover there wasn't a place that had or sold ball gown
patterns for the mid 1600's.  I found a big gap between 1600 and 1700's.
If anyone anywhere can point me in the right direction to locate a
pattern for the 1600's I would be forever in your debt. I gather from
this lack many people do not re-enact this time frame. Or I am not
looking in the right places.

Thank you in advance,
Diana
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fashion braces
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Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 11:56:27 -0800
Status: RO


>   I was just wondering, what sort of concessions do you make for your 
> period clothes?  (Any period will do.)
>
>I have a good friend who wants to return to the SCA (and eventually 
>Regency/Victorian/Edwardian stuff as well) but she is now wheelchair bound 
>and is having difficulty figuring out what concessions she will have to 
>make for her old costumes.  She used to try to be very authentic, and did 
>almost strictly Elizabethan clothing.  She wishes to continue both veins 
>as much as possible.  So I am trying to help her make adjustments.  I told 
>her I would ask this list, especially since we seem to be having this 
>conversation anyway.
>
>Any help would be appreciated, since I am at a complete loss.

Assuming she gets out of the chair to use the convenience, open up the 
skirt seam all the way to the waist in back.  The chair will cover 
this.  And remember, nothing lumpy to sit on or lean back against.

The other suggestions I have read include making garments that are easy for 
the wearer to put on, including large armholes and Velcro fasteners.  She 
may have to change to an easier-to-wear authentic period, like 
earlier.  (There's a book about clothing for the disabled somewhere - I've 
read it but keep not buying it - which includes more ideas.)


Kayta

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Subject: [h-cost] Moll Flanders?
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Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 15:16:49 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Hello, y'all.

I happened upon "The Adventures and Misadventures of Moll Flanders" the
other night, on Lifetime.  And was seduced by the scrummy looking gowns.
Can anyone (Nicole?)  give a rating on just how accurate the mid-17th c.
clothing in that movie was?

Thanks,

Drea


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Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 15:52:54 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Sat, 9 Nov 2002, Melanie Wilson wrote:

> >Did anyone else ever experience the I-am-deadly-tired-of-re-enactment
> clues while still loving one's costumes?

This has been an interesting thread. I have a slightly different
perspective on this, as I'm one of the very few (are there others?) on
this list who is primarily a historic costume researcher, and only
secondarily a maker of costumes. And I don't do re-enactment, theater, or
living history at all.

But I started out in re-enactment. No, wait. I started out studying
medieval costume history on my own, in high school, in the mid-1970s,
because I thought it was cool, and I made dress-up costumes for myself and
my friends. When I got to college, I found both Renfaires and SCA, at
right about the same time, so I was delighted to have an excuse to wear
the clothing I'd made, and make more, and learn more about it.

I was deeply involved in the SCA for several years (officer at local and
kingdom levels, deputy officer at national level), in several kingdoms. I
participated wholeheartedly in the entire experience, and I enjoyed the
opportunity to experiment with many different arts and crafts.  (For those
who care, my Laurel is not in costume. I would probably not meet
requirements for a costume Laurel today, either.) This kept me very busy
doing very many things, and -- as time went on -- with less and less time
to do any substantive work in any one area I was particularly interested
in, because I was doing a lot of administrative stuff, organizing,
teaching. My costume work mostly consisted of making and teaching the same
things over and over.

Then after one more house move and yet another kingdom, I found myself
busy with job and life and such, and I just never managed to get active in
the local group. I also found the opportunity to begin presenting papers
at academic conferences. And after a few years, I realized I had stopped
doing re-enacting without really noticing it. I was spending more and more
time on my costume research, which I had neglected for so long, and I was
still seeing many of my friends from re-enactment. But I had somehow
stopped bothering to go to events. It took me several years to realize not
only that I had quit, but that I hadn't missed it.

Now I tell people I had to quit the SCA to find the time to do the things
I joined the SCA to do ;-)

I tell this story sometimes when people assume I must have quit for a
reason related to the group -- politics, or burnout, or whatever. No,
I just got my activities in line with my priorities.

I also found that once I recognized this consciously, I became a much
better costumer, and a better costume researcher, because I was no longer
focused on making costumes to wear to events. I do still make costumes,
but mostly for experimental purposes, not personal ones. So I don't think
anymore about whether something will look good with my facial structure or
coloring (which are not typical of the cultures in which the clothing was
worn), or whether I can wash it or pack it, or whether I can have it done
before some event. I make fewer clothes, and very few for myself, but
they're better in general, and I'm happier doing them.

I also spend a lot more time researching costume issues that have very
little to do with making clothing -- e.g. the development of costume
history, or the use of costume in artwork in various periods. These are
things I just barely touched on when I was re-enacting and didn't have the
time or resources to pursue.

Today, I love lecturing for re-enactment groups, because then I get to see
that people can use my findings. People seem to think it's very odd that I
don't want to "play" in the SCA anymore, and I periodically run into some
old friend who decides I must have left because I felt unloved or
unwanted, and that I must be miserable or unfulfilled without it, and that
if they push me hard enough I'll come back where I belong. Not likely. I'm
much happier doing exactly what I want to do -- in my case, focusing on
the development of body garments in a particular period -- without being
distracted by the need to assemble the complete kit I'd need to actually
re-enact that period. No more pavilions, dining ware, baskets, pouches,
camp furniture, etc. For that matter, I mostly ignore shoes, hose,
headgear, belts, jewelry, and other costume accessories that don't
influence the clothing issues I'm studying. These aren't my areas of
interest, and so completing a full outfit was always a nuisance for me.
When I got right down to what I cared about, I found I liked what I was
doing a whole lot more.

Just another perspective.

--Robin
who met her husband at a party for burned-out ex-SCA people, and who still
has a few boxes of long-unused feast and camp gear in the basement -- his
as well as hers

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Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 18:10:49 -0500
Status: RO

At 09:51 PM 11/8/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>In a message dated 11/8/02 4:56:16 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
>lindo@radix.net writes:
>
>
>>Well, maybe you could do what one of the fiber arts sites does -- host a 
>>bulletin board where people can post big, cumbersome stuff like tents etc.?
>
>
>Yes, a bulletin board is better suited to this.  I am somewhat new to who 
>offers what.  Which fiber site are you referring to so I can see who 
>provides the service?  Or can you suggest any well regarded bulletin board 
>providers?  I don't think anyone wants daily deliverys of what's for sale 
>messages, but a place to quickly see what might be listed.  Thanks for the 
>suggestion.
>
>Lisa

Well, I don't know of any software specifically, but I'm sure some of the 
web sites out there that host bulletin boards (Muzzleloader Magazine has 
one, I think) could tell you what software they're using.  I think there's 
good freeware available, for that matter...

- Mara

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Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 18:05:30 -0500
Status: RO

At 07:18 PM 11/8/2002 +0000, you wrote:
>What is a kertch?  This is interesting because (as I said elsewhere) I pin 
>my wimple to my headscarf, to stop it blowing back.
>
>Jean

A kertch (in 18th c. Scottish parlance) is basically the Scottish Highland 
survival of the medieval wimple -- a large square piece of fabric, usually 
folded diagonally to form a triangle.  So, yes, same difference <g>.

-- Mara

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Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 18:16:13 -0500
Status: RO

At 11:09 PM 11/8/2002 +0000, you wrote:
>Did anyone else ever experience the I-am-deadly-tired-of-re-enactment clues
>while still loving one's costumes?
>
>Nicole

Oh, yes...  Well, one way to get through this is to have a private costume 
party with one's friends, just to enjoy the costumes without the tourists ;)

I find that the events I enjoy the most are the ones with a _few_ tourists, 
not too many, but ones that seem to ask intelligent questions 
(mostly).  That way I get a decent amount of time socializing with friends, 
and not too much time answering stupid questions.  I'm trying to figure out 
how to drop the events that involve high 'stupidity' quotients.

I also find that if I have a ton of stuff to haul with me, it's not as 
fun.  If I can travel light, I do better.  A 'common' persona helps this, I 
think... It's so tempting to take everything plus the proverbial kitchen 
sink to events, but paring down to the bare necessities helps one focus on 
what's really enjoyable.  And assigning myself some definable role or task 
for the duration of the event helps, too, when possible.

What do you think it is that bothers you most about the events you're going 
to?  What do you enjoy the most?

-- Mara

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Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 10:21:19 +0100
Status: RO

Please send me one too.

Greetings,
        Deredere
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/

Linda J. Thompson wrote:

> Cassandra,
> When I took my pattern drafting classes at the rep years ago, I got a 
> handout that showed  a method of upsizing a standard pattern using the 
> industry calculation method for it. If you would like I will scan it 
> and send it to you as an attachment to your private email.  If I 
> remember it is about 2 or three pages.  Was not extremely complicated, 
> and is more accurate than the split and spread method.
>
> If any on else wants a copy, send me email and I will get a list 
> together and send them all at once.




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Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan shoes
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Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 13:55:02 -0500
Status: RO


Usually, I don't do anything later than Tudor, but I found a really nice
"camp" (cotton) Elizabethan dress being sold as used garb at a reasonable
price.  Now that the alterations are mostly done and I contemplate wearing
it next weekend, I realize I have no idea of what kind of shoes would be
appropriate.  I'm not going to custom-made shoes for 1 dress - does anyone
have any thoughts on available modern shoes that would look okay?

Janet

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Subject: [h-cost] New exhibition devoted to Michelangelo and late Renaissance Flore
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Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 14:30:46 -0500
Status: RO





In case anyone needs one more reason to head north next spring:

http://story.news.yahoo.com/news?tmpl=story&u=/ap/20021111/ap_wo_en_po/a
rts_us_renaissance_art_2


CHICAGO - More than four centuries ago, a melancholy young nobleman from
the
Medici family, Francesco I, second Grand Duke of Tuscany, had a secret
chamber built at one of his palaces in Florence. He filled it with
exquisite
art works, jewels, natural curios and scientific specimens.



Francesco spent days at a time hiding from the world in what he called
his
"studiolo" or study. Other rulers of the day who had similar vaults
called
them "wonder cabinets."


The curators of an exhibition that opened Saturday at the Art Institute
of
Chicago, "The Medici, Michelangelo and the Art of Late Renaissance
Florence," devote a whole room to Francesco's wonder cabinet, but the
truest
wonders are in surrounding galleries: Art works created as the
Renaissance
was winding down in the city of its birth.


These are not the more famous works of the Early or the High
Renaissance,
when Florence was a rowdy republic and the Medici were up-and-coming
bankers - quick with the moneybags, the daggers and the stuffed ballot
boxes.


The exhibition, which runs through Feb. 2, covers the years from the
accession of Francesco's father, Cosimo I, in 1537, to the death in 1631
of
Archduchess Maria Maddalena, widow of Francesco's nephew, Cosimo II. By
the
latter year, the Medici - and Florence - were in decline, and the city's
art
was reverting to an almost medieval religiosity.


There are no da Vincis, Raphaels, Botticellis or Donatellos. Instead,
most
of the featured artists are from the later Mannerist school, which took
its
lead from the late works of Michelangelo.


Most aren't household names. There are such painters as Jacopo da
Pontormo,
Agnolo Bronzino and Francesco Salviati, while the sculptors include
Baccio
Bandinelli, Vincenzo Danti and Bartolomeo Ammanati.


But gallery-goers who demand star names needn't be disappointed. There
are
preliminary models for the most famous bronze by Benvenuto Cellini,
sculptor, goldsmith and all-around scamp, plus three sculptures and five
drawings by Michelangelo.


One of the works on paper is the unsigned "Drawing of a Candelabrum,"
discovered only this past spring in the collection of the Smithsonian's
Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum in New York. The drawing made
international headlines in July when it was identified as Michelangelo's
work. This is its first time on display outside New York.


The largest and best-known of the Michelangelo works in the exhibition
is
the uncompleted "Apollo/David," whose twisting body seems to be breaking
free from the original block of marble. Like many of the 200 other works
on
display, this is the first time the sculpture has traveled outside
Italy.
Its dramatic pose and subtle physical distortions provide a good
blueprint
for the aims of Mannerism.


Equally moving is the tiny wooden crucifix displayed nearby. The
88-year-old
Michelangelo was whittling it just before his death in Rome in 1564.

One of the most striking sculptures by Michelangelo's Mannerist
followers is
Bartolomeo Ammanti's monumental bronze of Hercules wrestling the giant
Antaeus.

Among paintings on display, the many Bronzino portraits are justly
famous,
and sometimes subtly unsettling. But the best-known painting is probably
"Judith with the Head of Holofernes," by Bronzino's grandson, Cristofano
Allori.

The exhibition, which was assembled by the Art Institute, the Detroit
Institute of Arts and a consortium of Italian museums, had its first
showing
at the Palazzo Strozzi in Florence earlier this year. Its only U.S.
showings
are at the Art Institute (Nov. 9, 2002-Feb. 2, 2003) and in Detroit
(March
16-June 8, 2003).




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Subject: [h-cost] Il Libro dell'Arte's online
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Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 15:45:58 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Guys,

Just stumbled across this: Cennino Cennini's "Il Libro dell' Arte" is
online! More interesting to illuminators than costumers, but there's still
some good recipes for buckram, etc. in here.

http://www.noteaccess.com/Texts/Cennini/index.htm

Drea

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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costuming in rainy weather(was: Flying with a Parasol?)
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Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 21:54:22 +0000
Status: RO

Stevie Gamble <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com> wrote
>Jean wrote
>
>> Indeed - those who could afford clothing that would be seriously
>spoiled
>> by rain and mud could also afford not to go out in it.
>>
>
>I think that that is only partially so; if you are thinking in terms
>of the 'idle rich' then that may be accurate. But many of the rich
>weren't idle, and time, tide and the Armada were not minded to call
>the whole thing off so that the Lord Admiral didn't spoil his clothes.
>Nor would Elizabeth have abandoned her claim to possess the heart and
>stomach of a king of England at Tilbury for fear of getting wet, and
>on a rather less fraught occasion Raleigh really did blow a small
>fortune when he threw down his cloak for her to walk on.
>
>best wishes
>Stevie
>
Well, that's an even higher level of wealth - to be able to wear 
brocades and satins, get them muddy and not care if they were ruined! 
Where people were going to wear their best, things were often arranged 
so they didn't have to get wet or step on the ground - stepping straight 
from the carriage onto a platform, for example, or the development of 
the porte-cochere.

While we can't necessarily tell whether people had shorter skirts for 
bad weather, I'm sure those who had to take care of their clothes had 
simpler, more easily cleaned outfits for muddy days.

I always wonder how short servants wore their skirts, as I struggle up 
steep spiral stairs in castles, even with both hands free for my skirts. 
Is anyone aware of any evidence, for 12th - 14th century?  I just can't 
imagine how they climbed with buckets of water or trays of food.

Jean

-- 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wonderful photo exhibit
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Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 22:21:59 +0000
Status: RO

It's interesting to consider how much looks wrong because we're not used 
to seeing people photographed in movement, or in informal poses, and how 
much, perhaps, because they haven't researched how people really moved - 
through novels and etiquette books, etc.   Some of them make me respond 
"no nice girl would..." - stand with her hands on her hips, for example.

It's the same with cross-cultural settings - things like not showing the 
soles of your feet to people.  Yes, everyone relaxes, everyone has to do 
daily tasks, but there are cultural/time differences in the way they do 
them, and the things which are acceptable or not.  Probably the last 
detail most people achieve in wearing historical costumes!

Jean

Kirrily Robert <skud@infotrope.net> wrote
>Theresa wrote:
>> If I understand this site correctly, this pair combined efforts to pose
>> modern people in period clothing and historic sites?
>>
>> I'm a little conflicted about this agenda: on the one hand, the people
>> themselves _look_ modern, as do the poses (kind of that contrived
>> spontaneity thing popular in some photographers' studios), so are we,
>> the viewing public, supposed to understand it as a historically accurate
>> view of how people behaved in natural settings?
>
>Hrm, yeah, I agree that the people look modern.  I find myself thinking
>"what is it that makes them look modern?" and seeing how I can apply it
>to my own costume-related activities.
>
>The things that stand out for me, are the childrens' hairstyles, the way
>people are standing/sitting with what looks like the wrong posture, and
>the fact that the photographs are sepia-toned and meant to look
>old-fashioned and yet they catch people in moments that would have
>looked like a blur using 19th century photography techniques.  I thought
>that people sitting for photographs at that time had to stand totally
>still for quite a long time for the long exposures?
>
>K.
>
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Subject: [h-cost] embroidery on19th century chemises
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Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 20:27:54 EST
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Howdy folks,

As I mentioned earlier, I have tried to take some pictures of the embroidery 
on the authentic 19th century chemises I have. I have 5 chemises and one 
combination. Though some are machine sewn together, the embroidery is done by 
hand on all of them.

I cannot get a good shot, however. The sun will not come out and there is not 
enough light without the flash to take a close up. The flash washes the white 
on white out. I'm going to invest in a tripod. I must go out of town this 
week however so you'll all just have to wait until I return and take some 
more pictures. 
The ones I have taken are not sharp and unacceptable but from them I can tell 
you'll be able to see each stitch, if I can get the camera to hold steady.

More later....

AlbertCat...budding photographer

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=3>Howdy folks,
<BR>
<BR>As I mentioned earlier, I have tried to take some pictures of the embroidery on the authentic 19th century chemises I have. I have 5 chemises and one combination. Though some are machine sewn together, the embroidery is done by hand on all of them.
<BR>
<BR>I cannot get a good shot, however. The sun will not come out and there is not enough light without the flash to take a close up. The flash washes the white on white out. I'm going to invest in a tripod. I must go out of town this week however so you'll all just have to wait until I return and take some more pictures. 
<BR>The ones I have taken are not sharp and unacceptable but from them I can tell you'll be able to see each stitch, if I can get the camera to hold steady.
<BR>
<BR>More later....
<BR>
<BR>AlbertCat...budding photographer</FONT></HTML>

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Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 23:54:34 -0500
Status: RO

Am I the only one not recieving any messages from h-cost?

Been two days since I've seen a post.

Di
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Nov 13 09:22:01 2002
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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 08:19:06 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

This is weird, no mails whatsoever since yesterday. Is it mailing list downtime
again?

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 08:47:10 -0600
Status: RO

I, too, would like to have a copy of the pattern re-sizing directions!
Many thanks,
Allison

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wonderful photo exhibit
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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 15:00:32 +0000
Status: RO

Jean Waddie wrote:

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk 11/12/02 10:21pm >>>
>It's interesting to consider how much looks wrong because we're not used 
>to seeing people photographed in movement, or in informal poses, 

As a sidelight on this, there's a painting by William Dobson showing Prince Rupert in conversation with two other officers (sorry, can't find it online). A Victorian critic, accustomed to posed, static portraits, thought it made Rupert look drunk. To my eyes it just looks like a snapshot which happens not to be particularly flattering.


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Nov 13 10:03:30 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moll Flanders?
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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 16:03:40 +0100
Status: RO

Dear Drea
I have it on tape from the television.
My two cents is that it is rather good. Compared to other series, they have
made it reasonable. I think it is a television series, and brittish
television is quite good in recreating periods.

Bjarne


Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Drea Leed" <drea@nospam>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 9:16 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Moll Flanders?


> Hello, y'all.
>
> I happened upon "The Adventures and Misadventures of Moll Flanders" the
> other night, on Lifetime.  And was seduced by the scrummy looking gowns.
> Can anyone (Nicole?)  give a rating on just how accurate the mid-17th c.
> clothing in that movie was?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Drea
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Nov 13 10:18:49 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns for the mid 1600's
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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 16:19:05 +0100
Status: RO

Dear Diana.
You are right. This is a period who lacks patterns.
The only ball gown you could find is in Janet Arnolds Patterns of Fashion.
There is the cut of a 1660 bodice and Norah Waugh has made a pattern of the
Bath Dress from 1660 very similar to the bodice in The Cut of Womens
Clothes. There is also a cut of a jacket from 1650.
So you have to draft your own patterns from these books!
Then there also is Jean Hunniset who has made some cuts of bodices in Period
Costume for Stage and Screen, but she used the same drafts from the above
mensioned bodices and skirts.
Another book who has mid 1600 patterns (more theatrical) is The Evolution of
Fashion - Pattern and Cut from 1066 - 1930 by Margot Hamilton Hill and Peter
A Bucknell.
I made a Dress for Nicole Kipar a coupple of years ago with real handmade
silverlace decoration on the bodice and the skirt. It was made after the
pattern in Janet Arnold's book Patterns of Fashion.
If you go here: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/pembroke.htm
you can follow how i made this dress from 1660.
And the finished dress is here:
http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/cavalier.html

Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/



----- Original Message -----
From: "Dhannti" <dychap@inetone.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 8:18 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Patterns for the mid 1600's


>
> Greetings,
> I have searched so many online pattern shops I think I am dizzy.
> What I did discover there wasn't a place that had or sold ball gown
> patterns for the mid 1600's.  I found a big gap between 1600 and 1700's.
> If anyone anywhere can point me in the right direction to locate a
> pattern for the 1600's I would be forever in your debt. I gather from
> this lack many people do not re-enact this time frame. Or I am not
> looking in the right places.
>
> Thank you in advance,
> Diana
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns for the mid 1600's
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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 09:38:16 -0600
Status: RO

I have just received my order from 'The Merchant Venturers' who
specialize in doing Cavalier/English Civil War styles. The patterns are
dated from about 1625-1640 but could probably do for fashions thru the
Commonwealth. I haven't used any of them yet so I can't speak for easy of
use or fit, but I will let the list know when I try them. 


Karen

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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 10:59:08 EST
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Please send me a copy also.

Thanks,
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 Nancy


Linda J. Thompson wrote:

> Cassandra,
> When I took my pattern drafting classes at the rep years ago, I got a=20
> handout that showed=A0 a method of upsizing a standard pattern using the=20
> industry calculation method for it. If you would like I will scan it=20
> and send it to you as an attachment to your private email.=A0 If I=20
> remember it is about 2 or three pages.=A0 Was not extremely complicated,=20
> and is more accurate than the split and spread method.
>
> If any on else wants a copy, send me email and I will get a list=20
> together and send them all at once.



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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=
=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">Please send me a copy also.<BR>
<BR>
Thanks,<BR>
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 Nancy<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
Linda J. Thompson wrote:<BR>
<BR>
&gt; Cassandra,<BR>
&gt; When I took my pattern drafting classes at the rep years ago, I got a <=
BR>
&gt; handout that showed=A0 a method of upsizing a standard pattern using th=
e <BR>
&gt; industry calculation method for it. If you would like I will scan it <B=
R>
&gt; and send it to you as an attachment to your private email.=A0 If I <BR>
&gt; remember it is about 2 or three pages.=A0 Was not extremely complicated=
, <BR>
&gt; and is more accurate than the split and spread method.<BR>
&gt;<BR>
&gt; If any on else wants a copy, send me email and I will get a list <BR>
&gt; together and send them all at once.<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Nov 13 11:03:11 2002
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns for the mid 1600's
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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 16:02:00 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- seamstrix@juno.com wrote: > I have just received my order from 'The
Merchant Venturers' who
> specialize in doing Cavalier/English Civil War styles. The patterns are
> dated from about 1625-1640 but could probably do for fashions thru the
> Commonwealth. I haven't used any of them yet so I can't speak for easy of
> use or fit, but I will let the list know when I try them. 

Teddy wore a green ensemble last weekend which he made out of the Merchant
venturers patterns. It fit him great, but of course pattern adjustments are
needed if you are not by any chance their fit.
I have a few patterns of theirs and I like them, I use them as basics to make
fitting patterns.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Nov 13 11:06:50 2002
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns for the mid 1600's
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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 16:06:36 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Diana, I have to tel you that ther  are NO commercial patterns available for
the mid 17th to late 17th century that I possibly know of, and I know a
hellofalot about this period. :-)

> You are right. This is a period who lacks patterns.
> The only ball gown you could find is in Janet Arnolds Patterns of Fashion.
> There is the cut of a 1660 bodice and Norah Waugh has made a pattern of the
> Bath Dress from 1660 very similar to the bodice in The Cut of Womens
> Clothes. There is also a cut of a jacket from 1650.

You don't need a 'gown' because essentially, the 'gowns' of the period are
bodices and skirts, skirts are simple rectangles, usually cartridge pleated,
sometimes box pleated 9uhm, or was that term knife pleating? methinks the
latter) herefore you need to do exactly what Bjarne says, you need to draft 
apattern from Norah Waugh and/or Janet Arnold.

> So you have to draft your own patterns from these books!

..and that's where I personally fail utterly. Although you could also ask Sarah
Thursfield to make a pattern for you. 

> Another book who has mid 1600 patterns (more theatrical) is The Evolution of
> Fashion - Pattern and Cut from 1066 - 1930 by Margot Hamilton Hill and Peter
> A Bucknell.

Do NOT use it if you want anything authentic, I agree with Bjarne here, it is
purely theatrical.

> I made a Dress for Nicole Kipar a coupple of years ago with real handmade
> silverlace decoration on the bodice and the skirt. It was made after the
> pattern in Janet Arnold's book Patterns of Fashion.

and a most beautiful dress it is! still the lovliest costume that i own, i feel
soooooooooooooo beautiful in it. *grins*

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Please add me to the list also.  dshoover@attbi.com
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: MaddNancy@aol.com=20
  To: h-costume@net.indra.com=20
  Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2002 7:59 AM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] tired of re-enacting,pattern stuff


  Please send me a copy also.

  Thanks,
          Nancy


  Linda J. Thompson wrote:

  > Cassandra,
  > When I took my pattern drafting classes at the rep years ago, I got =
a=20
  > handout that showed  a method of upsizing a standard pattern using =
the=20
  > industry calculation method for it. If you would like I will scan it =

  > and send it to you as an attachment to your private email.  If I=20
  > remember it is about 2 or three pages.  Was not extremely =
complicated,=20
  > and is more accurate than the split and spread method.
  >
  > If any on else wants a copy, send me email and I will get a list=20
  > together and send them all at once.



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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Please add me to the list also.&nbsp;=20
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  <A title=3DMaddNancy@aol.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:MaddNancy@aol.com">MaddNancy@aol.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dh-costume@net.indra.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:h-costume@net.indra.com">h-costume@net.indra.com</A> =
</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, November 13, =
2002 7:59=20
  AM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [h-cost] tired of=20
  re-enacting,pattern stuff</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 =
face=3DArial size=3D2=20
  FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">Please send me a copy =
also.<BR><BR>Thanks,<BR>&nbsp; &nbsp;=20
  &nbsp; &nbsp; Nancy<BR><BR><BR>Linda J. Thompson wrote:<BR><BR>&gt;=20
  Cassandra,<BR>&gt; When I took my pattern drafting classes at the rep =
years=20
  ago, I got a <BR>&gt; handout that showed&nbsp; a method of upsizing a =

  standard pattern using the <BR>&gt; industry calculation method for =
it. If you=20
  would like I will scan it <BR>&gt; and send it to you as an attachment =
to your=20
  private email.&nbsp; If I <BR>&gt; remember it is about 2 or three=20
  pages.&nbsp; Was not extremely complicated, <BR>&gt; and is more =
accurate than=20
  the split and spread method.<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt; If any on else wants a =
copy, send=20
  me email and I will get a list <BR>&gt; together and send them all at=20
  once.<BR><BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></FONT></BODY></HTML>

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costuming in rainy weather(was: Flying with a  Parasol?)
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 16:15:38 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Kevin + Mara <lindo@radix.net> wrote: > 
> 
> I also find that if I have a ton of stuff to haul with me, it's not as 
> fun.  If I can travel light, I do better.  A 'common' persona helps this, I 
> think... It's so tempting to take everything plus the proverbial kitchen 
> sink to events, but paring down to the bare necessities helps one focus on 
> what's really enjoyable.  And assigning myself some definable role or task 
> for the duration of the event helps, too, when possible.
> 
> What do you think it is that bothers you most about the events you're going 
> to?  What do you enjoy the most?

You hit the nail on the head Mara, I have none of those options of the above. I
am the leader! This is my blooming society, so I lug everything around, with
two cars and one van and I am SO tired of that stress, of having to care for
everyone, trying to make sure everyone is happy (mother hen syndrome) dealing
with the rganisers, having essentially the responsibility, making sure the
members deal well with the public, making sure I bought all the food, and
usuallyending up paying lots out of my own pocket towards everything. Also,
setting up 5 tents or so is NOT fun. I think I just had it with all the stress
and responsibility I don't think that ANY members of ANY group/society realise
HOW utterly stress and NO-fun their leaders are. I didn't enjoy a single event
not ever with my society, not a single one other tan the banquet and the pirate
fun. I was deeply depresed before every event and usually even worse after,
because I was so exhausted, phyiscally and mentally. I think, quite honestly,
that I pretty much had it.
Burn out syndrome, badly.

Nicole - working on a fantasy costume instead! Thanks to Teddy and all the
other lovely people. :-)))

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moll Flanders?
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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 16:25:58 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Drea Leed <drea@nospam> wrote: > Hello, y'all.
> 
> I happened upon "The Adventures and Misadventures of Moll Flanders" the
> other night, on Lifetime.  And was seduced by the scrummy looking gowns.
> Can anyone (Nicole?)  give a rating on just how accurate the mid-17th c.
> clothing in that movie was?

Sorry Drea, didn't watch it, I usually shy away from costume films of my
facvourite period because they usually make me scream in horror *L* (notable
exception: Restoration) so I can't say anything about the costumes.

Nicole

=====
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URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moll Flanders?
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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 16:50:00 +0000
Status: RO

Is this the version with Alex Kingston as Moll? If so, it's several years since it was shown on British TV. I don't remember any problems regarding the costumes, but my memory of them is hazy. (I've visited the half-timbered house where some of it was filmed, in Ludlow, Shropshire.)


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com 11/13/02 04:25pm >>>
 --- Drea Leed <drea@nospam> wrote: > Hello, y'all.
> 
> I happened upon "The Adventures and Misadventures of Moll Flanders" the
> other night, on Lifetime.  And was seduced by the scrummy looking gowns.
> Can anyone (Nicole?)  give a rating on just how accurate the mid-17th c.
> clothing in that movie was?

Sorry Drea, didn't watch it, I usually shy away from costume films of my
facvourite period because they usually make me scream in horror *L* (notable
exception: Restoration) so I can't say anything about the costumes.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/ 
Email: nicole@kipar.org 

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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 10:05:29 -0700
Status: RO

Think it's just quiet right now, which is okay with me, 'cuz a couple of
my other lists are just *exploding.*
--sue

N Kipar wrote:
> 
> This is weird, no mails whatsoever since yesterday. Is it mailing list downtime
> again?
> 
> Nicole
> 
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: nicole@kipar.org
> 
> __________________________________________________
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In a message dated 11/13/02 6:14:48 AM Pacific Standard Time, drea@nospam 
writes:


> Hello, y'all.
> 
> I happened upon "The Adventures and Misadventures of Moll Flanders" the
> other night, on Lifetime.  And was seduced by the scrummy looking gowns.
> Can anyone (Nicole?)  give a rating on just how accurate the mid-17th c.
> clothing in that movie was?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Drea
> 

Drea,

Which version was it?  The one with Angela Lansbury?  I have been looking for 
a copy of that for Angela's Files, but am having the worst time tracking it 
down.

Kit

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Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 11/13/02 6:14:48 AM Pacific Standard Time, drea@nospam writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Hello, y'all.<BR>
<BR>
I happened upon "The Adventures and Misadventures of Moll Flanders" the<BR>
other night, on Lifetime.&nbsp; And was seduced by the scrummy looking gowns.<BR>
Can anyone (Nicole?)&nbsp; give a rating on just how accurate the mid-17th c.<BR>
clothing in that movie was?<BR>
<BR>
Thanks,<BR>
<BR>
Drea<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Drea,<BR>
<BR>
Which version was it?&nbsp; The one with Angela Lansbury?&nbsp; I have been looking for a copy of that for Angela's Files, but am having the worst time tracking it down.<BR>
<BR>
Kit</FONT></HTML>

--part1_10.283d7240.2b03e217_boundary--
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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 17:42:08 -0000
Status: RO

> 
> Linda J. Thompson wrote:
> 
> > Cassandra,
> > When I took my pattern drafting classes at the rep years ago, I got a 
> > handout that showed  a method of upsizing a standard pattern using the 
> > industry calculation method for it. If you would like I will scan it 
> > and send it to you as an attachment to your private email.  If I 
> > remember it is about 2 or three pages.  Was not extremely complicated, 
> > and is more accurate than the split and spread method.
> >
> > If any on else wants a copy, send me email and I will get a list 
> > together and send them all at once.
> 

Please, I would like to receive a copy of this too.

Linda Walton.
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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 11:51:16 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Tue, 12 Nov 2002, Jean Waddie wrote:

> I always wonder how short servants wore their skirts, as I struggle up 
> steep spiral stairs in castles, even with both hands free for my skirts. 
> Is anyone aware of any evidence, for 12th - 14th century?  I just can't 
> imagine how they climbed with buckets of water or trays of food.

You see a lot of pictures of women doing work with their outer skirts
kilted up in some way, showing an underdress that's only ankle-length (or
sometimes their single workdress kilted up, showing a chemise that's even
shorter). There are several ways of showing the folds of the gathered
part, but I think one useful trick is to wear a belt underneath the outer
layer, and tuck some of the outer skirt into the inner belt. It would take
some experimentation to find the best ways -- something I haven't played
around with.

--Robin


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: tired of reenacting
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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 09:45:40 -0800
Status: RO

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin + Mara" <lindo@radix.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 3:16 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costuming in rainy weather(was: Flying with a
Parasol?)


<snip>
> I find that the events I enjoy the most are the ones with a _few_
tourists,
> not too many, but ones that seem to ask intelligent questions
> (mostly).  That way I get a decent amount of time socializing with
friends,
> and not too much time answering stupid questions.  I'm trying to figure
out
> how to drop the events that involve high 'stupidity' quotients.
<snip>

I'm exactly the opposite -- as someone who used to work Renaissance Faires,
but now primarily attends vintage dance events, I miss having the audience
because it forces people to (at least some of the time) stay in character.
I find at balls and dances, beyond dressing up, people make little to no
attempt at acting "historic"!  Seems a bit of a waste, really, to get all
dressed up and then talk about your job!

One thing I don't miss as an ex-Faire person, though, is giving up 3 months
of weekends...

- Kendra

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From: Lisa VandenBerghe <lisa@darklord.com>
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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 09:55:26 -0800
Status: RO

Please send me a copy too! Thanks! 
Lisa VandenBerghe

h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
> 
> Send h-costume mailing list submissions to
>         h-costume@mail.indra.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>         http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>         h-costume-request@mail.indra.com
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>         h-costume-admin@mail.indra.com
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of h-costume digest..."
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>    1. Patterns for the mid 1600's (Dhannti)
>    2. Re: fashion braces (Carolyn Kayta Barrows)
>    3. Moll Flanders? (Drea Leed)
>    4. Re: Tired of re-enactment (Robin Netherton)
>    5. Re: Forehead cloth/cross clothes (Kevin + Mara)
>    6. Re: Fripper's and second hand garb (Kevin + Mara)
>    7. Re: costuming in rainy weather(was: Flying with a
>        Parasol?) (Kevin + Mara)
>    8. Re: tired of re-enacting,,pattern stuff (Deredere & Owen Iskander)
>    9. Elizabethan shoes (Janet Davis)
>   10. New exhibition devoted to Michelangelo and late Renaissance Flore (Linda Rice)
>   11. Il Libro dell'Arte's online (Drea Leed)
>   12. Re: costuming in rainy weather(was: Flying with a Parasol?) (Jean Waddie)
>   13. Re: Wonderful photo exhibit (Jean Waddie)
> 
> --__--__--
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 14:18:43 -0500
> From: Dhannti <dychap@inetone.net>
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Patterns for the mid 1600's
> Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> 
> Greetings,
> I have searched so many online pattern shops I think I am dizzy.
> What I did discover there wasn't a place that had or sold ball gown
> patterns for the mid 1600's.  I found a big gap between 1600 and 1700's.
> If anyone anywhere can point me in the right direction to locate a
> pattern for the 1600's I would be forever in your debt. I gather from
> this lack many people do not re-enact this time frame. Or I am not
> looking in the right places.
> 
> Thank you in advance,
> Diana
> 
> --__--__--
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 11:56:27 -0800
> From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] fashion braces
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> 
> >   I was just wondering, what sort of concessions do you make for your
> > period clothes?  (Any period will do.)
> >
> >I have a good friend who wants to return to the SCA (and eventually
> >Regency/Victorian/Edwardian stuff as well) but she is now wheelchair bound
> >and is having difficulty figuring out what concessions she will have to
> >make for her old costumes.  She used to try to be very authentic, and did
> >almost strictly Elizabethan clothing.  She wishes to continue both veins
> >as much as possible.  So I am trying to help her make adjustments.  I told
> >her I would ask this list, especially since we seem to be having this
> >conversation anyway.
> >
> >Any help would be appreciated, since I am at a complete loss.
> 
> Assuming she gets out of the chair to use the convenience, open up the
> skirt seam all the way to the waist in back.  The chair will cover
> this.  And remember, nothing lumpy to sit on or lean back against.
> 
> The other suggestions I have read include making garments that are easy for
> the wearer to put on, including large armholes and Velcro fasteners.  She
> may have to change to an easier-to-wear authentic period, like
> earlier.  (There's a book about clothing for the disabled somewhere - I've
> read it but keep not buying it - which includes more ideas.)
> 
> Kayta
> 
>     //// \\\
>    ////-@@\\\
>   ((((   7 )))
>    (((  <> ))))
>       )   ((((((
> /----\   /---\))
> 
> --__--__--
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 15:16:49 -0500 (EST)
> From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Moll Flanders?
> Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> 
> Hello, y'all.
> 
> I happened upon "The Adventures and Misadventures of Moll Flanders" the
> other night, on Lifetime.  And was seduced by the scrummy looking gowns.
> Can anyone (Nicole?)  give a rating on just how accurate the mid-17th c.
> clothing in that movie was?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Drea
> 
> --__--__--
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 15:52:54 -0600 (CST)
> From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> To: LIST H costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tired of re-enactment
> Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> 
> On Sat, 9 Nov 2002, Melanie Wilson wrote:
> 
> > >Did anyone else ever experience the I-am-deadly-tired-of-re-enactment
> > clues while still loving one's costumes?
> 
> This has been an interesting thread. I have a slightly different
> perspective on this, as I'm one of the very few (are there others?) on
> this list who is primarily a historic costume researcher, and only
> secondarily a maker of costumes. And I don't do re-enactment, theater, or
> living history at all.
> 
> But I started out in re-enactment. No, wait. I started out studying
> medieval costume history on my own, in high school, in the mid-1970s,
> because I thought it was cool, and I made dress-up costumes for myself and
> my friends. When I got to college, I found both Renfaires and SCA, at
> right about the same time, so I was delighted to have an excuse to wear
> the clothing I'd made, and make more, and learn more about it.
> 
> I was deeply involved in the SCA for several years (officer at local and
> kingdom levels, deputy officer at national level), in several kingdoms. I
> participated wholeheartedly in the entire experience, and I enjoyed the
> opportunity to experiment with many different arts and crafts.  (For those
> who care, my Laurel is not in costume. I would probably not meet
> requirements for a costume Laurel today, either.) This kept me very busy
> doing very many things, and -- as time went on -- with less and less time
> to do any substantive work in any one area I was particularly interested
> in, because I was doing a lot of administrative stuff, organizing,
> teaching. My costume work mostly consisted of making and teaching the same
> things over and over.
> 
> Then after one more house move and yet another kingdom, I found myself
> busy with job and life and such, and I just never managed to get active in
> the local group. I also found the opportunity to begin presenting papers
> at academic conferences. And after a few years, I realized I had stopped
> doing re-enacting without really noticing it. I was spending more and more
> time on my costume research, which I had neglected for so long, and I was
> still seeing many of my friends from re-enactment. But I had somehow
> stopped bothering to go to events. It took me several years to realize not
> only that I had quit, but that I hadn't missed it.
> 
> Now I tell people I had to quit the SCA to find the time to do the things
> I joined the SCA to do ;-)
> 
> I tell this story sometimes when people assume I must have quit for a
> reason related to the group -- politics, or burnout, or whatever. No,
> I just got my activities in line with my priorities.
> 
> I also found that once I recognized this consciously, I became a much
> better costumer, and a better costume researcher, because I was no longer
> focused on making costumes to wear to events. I do still make costumes,
> but mostly for experimental purposes, not personal ones. So I don't think
> anymore about whether something will look good with my facial structure or
> coloring (which are not typical of the cultures in which the clothing was
> worn), or whether I can wash it or pack it, or whether I can have it done
> before some event. I make fewer clothes, and very few for myself, but
> they're better in general, and I'm happier doing them.
> 
> I also spend a lot more time researching costume issues that have very
> little to do with making clothing -- e.g. the development of costume
> history, or the use of costume in artwork in various periods. These are
> things I just barely touched on when I was re-enacting and didn't have the
> time or resources to pursue.
> 
> Today, I love lecturing for re-enactment groups, because then I get to see
> that people can use my findings. People seem to think it's very odd that I
> don't want to "play" in the SCA anymore, and I periodically run into some
> old friend who decides I must have left because I felt unloved or
> unwanted, and that I must be miserable or unfulfilled without it, and that
> if they push me hard enough I'll come back where I belong. Not likely. I'm
> much happier doing exactly what I want to do -- in my case, focusing on
> the development of body garments in a particular period -- without being
> distracted by the need to assemble the complete kit I'd need to actually
> re-enact that period. No more pavilions, dining ware, baskets, pouches,
> camp furniture, etc. For that matter, I mostly ignore shoes, hose,
> headgear, belts, jewelry, and other costume accessories that don't
> influence the clothing issues I'm studying. These aren't my areas of
> interest, and so completing a full outfit was always a nuisance for me.
> When I got right down to what I cared about, I found I liked what I was
> doing a whole lot more.
> 
> Just another perspective.
> 
> --Robin
> who met her husband at a party for burned-out ex-SCA people, and who still
> has a few boxes of long-unused feast and camp gear in the basement -- his
> as well as hers
> 
> --__--__--
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 18:05:30 -0500
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> From: Kevin + Mara <lindo@radix.net>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Forehead cloth/cross clothes
> Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> 
> At 07:18 PM 11/8/2002 +0000, you wrote:
> >What is a kertch?  This is interesting because (as I said elsewhere) I pin
> >my wimple to my headscarf, to stop it blowing back.
> >
> >Jean
> 
> A kertch (in 18th c. Scottish parlance) is basically the Scottish Highland
> survival of the medieval wimple -- a large square piece of fabric, usually
> folded diagonally to form a triangle.  So, yes, same difference <g>.
> 
> -- Mara
> 
> --__--__--
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 18:10:49 -0500
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> From: Kevin + Mara <lindo@radix.net>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fripper's and second hand garb
> Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> 
> At 09:51 PM 11/8/2002 -0500, you wrote:
> >In a message dated 11/8/02 4:56:16 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> >lindo@radix.net writes:
> >
> >
> >>Well, maybe you could do what one of the fiber arts sites does -- host a
> >>bulletin board where people can post big, cumbersome stuff like tents etc.?
> >
> >
> >Yes, a bulletin board is better suited to this.  I am somewhat new to who
> >offers what.  Which fiber site are you referring to so I can see who
> >provides the service?  Or can you suggest any well regarded bulletin board
> >providers?  I don't think anyone wants daily deliverys of what's for sale
> >messages, but a place to quickly see what might be listed.  Thanks for the
> >suggestion.
> >
> >Lisa
> 
> Well, I don't know of any software specifically, but I'm sure some of the
> web sites out there that host bulletin boards (Muzzleloader Magazine has
> one, I think) could tell you what software they're using.  I think there's
> good freeware available, for that matter...
> 
> - Mara
> 
> --__--__--
> 
> Message: 7
> Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 18:16:13 -0500
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> From: Kevin + Mara <lindo@radix.net>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] costuming in rainy weather(was: Flying with a
>   Parasol?)
> Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> 
> At 11:09 PM 11/8/2002 +0000, you wrote:
> >Did anyone else ever experience the I-am-deadly-tired-of-re-enactment clues
> >while still loving one's costumes?
> >
> >Nicole
> 
> Oh, yes...  Well, one way to get through this is to have a private costume
> party with one's friends, just to enjoy the costumes without the tourists ;)
> 
> I find that the events I enjoy the most are the ones with a _few_ tourists,
> not too many, but ones that seem to ask intelligent questions
> (mostly).  That way I get a decent amount of time socializing with friends,
> and not too much time answering stupid questions.  I'm trying to figure out
> how to drop the events that involve high 'stupidity' quotients.
> 
> I also find that if I have a ton of stuff to haul with me, it's not as
> fun.  If I can travel light, I do better.  A 'common' persona helps this, I
> think... It's so tempting to take everything plus the proverbial kitchen
> sink to events, but paring down to the bare necessities helps one focus on
> what's really enjoyable.  And assigning myself some definable role or task
> for the duration of the event helps, too, when possible.
> 
> What do you think it is that bothers you most about the events you're going
> to?  What do you enjoy the most?
> 
> -- Mara
> 
> --__--__--
> 
> Message: 8
> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 10:21:19 +0100
> From: Deredere & Owen Iskander <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] tired of re-enacting,,pattern stuff
> Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> 
> Please send me one too.
> 
> Greetings,
>         Deredere
> http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/
> 
> Linda J. Thompson wrote:
> 
> > Cassandra,
> > When I took my pattern drafting classes at the rep years ago, I got a
> > handout that showed  a method of upsizing a standard pattern using the
> > industry calculation method for it. If you would like I will scan it
> > and send it to you as an attachment to your private email.  If I
> > remember it is about 2 or three pages.  Was not extremely complicated,
> > and is more accurate than the split and spread method.
> >
> > If any on else wants a copy, send me email and I will get a list
> > together and send them all at once.
> 
> --__--__--
> 
> Message: 9
> From: "Janet Davis" <castle@erie.net>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 13:55:02 -0500
> Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan shoes
> Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> 
> Usually, I don't do anything later than Tudor, but I found a really nice
> "camp" (cotton) Elizabethan dress being sold as used garb at a reasonable
> price.  Now that the alterations are mostly done and I contemplate wearing
> it next weekend, I realize I have no idea of what kind of shoes would be
> appropriate.  I'm not going to custom-made shoes for 1 dress - does anyone
> have any thoughts on available modern shoes that would look okay?
> 
> Janet
> 
> --__--__--
> 
> Message: 10
> From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 14:30:46 -0500
> Subject: [h-cost] New exhibition devoted to Michelangelo and late Renaissance Flore
> Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> 
> In case anyone needs one more reason to head north next spring:
> 
> http://story.news.yahoo.com/news?tmpl=story&u=/ap/20021111/ap_wo_en_po/a
> rts_us_renaissance_art_2
> 
> CHICAGO - More than four centuries ago, a melancholy young nobleman from
> the
> Medici family, Francesco I, second Grand Duke of Tuscany, had a secret
> chamber built at one of his palaces in Florence. He filled it with
> exquisite
> art works, jewels, natural curios and scientific specimens.
> 
> Francesco spent days at a time hiding from the world in what he called
> his
> "studiolo" or study. Other rulers of the day who had similar vaults
> called
> them "wonder cabinets."
> 
> The curators of an exhibition that opened Saturday at the Art Institute
> of
> Chicago, "The Medici, Michelangelo and the Art of Late Renaissance
> Florence," devote a whole room to Francesco's wonder cabinet, but the
> truest
> wonders are in surrounding galleries: Art works created as the
> Renaissance
> was winding down in the city of its birth.
> 
> These are not the more famous works of the Early or the High
> Renaissance,
> when Florence was a rowdy republic and the Medici were up-and-coming
> bankers - quick with the moneybags, the daggers and the stuffed ballot
> boxes.
> 
> The exhibition, which runs through Feb. 2, covers the years from the
> accession of Francesco's father, Cosimo I, in 1537, to the death in 1631
> of
> Archduchess Maria Maddalena, widow of Francesco's nephew, Cosimo II. By
> the
> latter year, the Medici - and Florence - were in decline, and the city's
> art
> was reverting to an almost medieval religiosity.
> 
> There are no da Vincis, Raphaels, Botticellis or Donatellos. Instead,
> most
> of the featured artists are from the later Mannerist school, which took
> its
> lead from the late works of Michelangelo.
> 
> Most aren't household names. There are such painters as Jacopo da
> Pontormo,
> Agnolo Bronzino and Francesco Salviati, while the sculptors include
> Baccio
> Bandinelli, Vincenzo Danti and Bartolomeo Ammanati.
> 
> But gallery-goers who demand star names needn't be disappointed. There
> are
> preliminary models for the most famous bronze by Benvenuto Cellini,
> sculptor, goldsmith and all-around scamp, plus three sculptures and five
> drawings by Michelangelo.
> 
> One of the works on paper is the unsigned "Drawing of a Candelabrum,"
> discovered only this past spring in the collection of the Smithsonian's
> Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum in New York. The drawing made
> international headlines in July when it was identified as Michelangelo's
> work. This is its first time on display outside New York.
> 
> The largest and best-known of the Michelangelo works in the exhibition
> is
> the uncompleted "Apollo/David," whose twisting body seems to be breaking
> free from the original block of marble. Like many of the 200 other works
> on
> display, this is the first time the sculpture has traveled outside
> Italy.
> Its dramatic pose and subtle physical distortions provide a good
> blueprint
> for the aims of Mannerism.
> 
> Equally moving is the tiny wooden crucifix displayed nearby. The
> 88-year-old
> Michelangelo was whittling it just before his death in Rome in 1564.
> 
> One of the most striking sculptures by Michelangelo's Mannerist
> followers is
> Bartolomeo Ammanti's monumental bronze of Hercules wrestling the giant
> Antaeus.
> 
> Among paintings on display, the many Bronzino portraits are justly
> famous,
> and sometimes subtly unsettling. But the best-known painting is probably
> "Judith with the Head of Holofernes," by Bronzino's grandson, Cristofano
> Allori.
> 
> The exhibition, which was assembled by the Art Institute, the Detroit
> Institute of Arts and a consortium of Italian museums, had its first
> showing
> at the Palazzo Strozzi in Florence earlier this year. Its only U.S.
> showings
> are at the Art Institute (Nov. 9, 2002-Feb. 2, 2003) and in Detroit
> (March
> 16-June 8, 2003).
> 
> --__--__--
> 
> Message: 11
> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 15:45:58 -0500 (EST)
> From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Il Libro dell'Arte's online
> Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> 
> Guys,
> 
> Just stumbled across this: Cennino Cennini's "Il Libro dell' Arte" is
> online! More interesting to illuminators than costumers, but there's still
> some good recipes for buckram, etc. in here.
> 
> http://www.noteaccess.com/Texts/Cennini/index.htm
> 
> Drea
> 
> --__--__--
> 
> Message: 12
> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 21:54:22 +0000
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] costuming in rainy weather(was: Flying with a Parasol?)
> Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> 
> Stevie Gamble <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com> wrote
> >Jean wrote
> >
> >> Indeed - those who could afford clothing that would be seriously
> >spoiled
> >> by rain and mud could also afford not to go out in it.
> >>
> >
> >I think that that is only partially so; if you are thinking in terms
> >of the 'idle rich' then that may be accurate. But many of the rich
> >weren't idle, and time, tide and the Armada were not minded to call
> >the whole thing off so that the Lord Admiral didn't spoil his clothes.
> >Nor would Elizabeth have abandoned her claim to possess the heart and
> >stomach of a king of England at Tilbury for fear of getting wet, and
> >on a rather less fraught occasion Raleigh really did blow a small
> >fortune when he threw down his cloak for her to walk on.
> >
> >best wishes
> >Stevie
> >
> Well, that's an even higher level of wealth - to be able to wear
> brocades and satins, get them muddy and not care if they were ruined!
> Where people were going to wear their best, things were often arranged
> so they didn't have to get wet or step on the ground - stepping straight
> from the carriage onto a platform, for example, or the development of
> the porte-cochere.
> 
> While we can't necessarily tell whether people had shorter skirts for
> bad weather, I'm sure those who had to take care of their clothes had
> simpler, more easily cleaned outfits for muddy days.
> 
> I always wonder how short servants wore their skirts, as I struggle up
> steep spiral stairs in castles, even with both hands free for my skirts.
> Is anyone aware of any evidence, for 12th - 14th century?  I just can't
> imagine how they climbed with buckets of water or trays of food.
> 
> Jean
> 
> --
> Jean Waddie
> 
> --__--__--
> 
> Message: 13
> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 22:21:59 +0000
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wonderful photo exhibit
> Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> 
> It's interesting to consider how much looks wrong because we're not used
> to seeing people photographed in movement, or in informal poses, and how
> much, perhaps, because they haven't researched how people really moved -
> through novels and etiquette books, etc.   Some of them make me respond
> "no nice girl would..." - stand with her hands on her hips, for example.
> 
> It's the same with cross-cultural settings - things like not showing the
> soles of your feet to people.  Yes, everyone relaxes, everyone has to do
> daily tasks, but there are cultural/time differences in the way they do
> them, and the things which are acceptable or not.  Probably the last
> detail most people achieve in wearing historical costumes!
> 
> Jean
> 
> Kirrily Robert <skud@infotrope.net> wrote
> >Theresa wrote:
> >> If I understand this site correctly, this pair combined efforts to pose
> >> modern people in period clothing and historic sites?
> >>
> >> I'm a little conflicted about this agenda: on the one hand, the people
> >> themselves _look_ modern, as do the poses (kind of that contrived
> >> spontaneity thing popular in some photographers' studios), so are we,
> >> the viewing public, supposed to understand it as a historically accurate
> >> view of how people behaved in natural settings?
> >
> >Hrm, yeah, I agree that the people look modern.  I find myself thinking
> >"what is it that makes them look modern?" and seeing how I can apply it
> >to my own costume-related activities.
> >
> >The things that stand out for me, are the childrens' hairstyles, the way
> >people are standing/sitting with what looks like the wrong posture, and
> >the fact that the photographs are sepia-toned and meant to look
> >old-fashioned and yet they catch people in moments that would have
> >looked like a blur using 19th century photography techniques.  I thought
> >that people sitting for photographs at that time had to stand totally
> >still for quite a long time for the long exposures?
> >
> >K.
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> --
> Jean Waddie
> 
> --__--__--
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> End of h-costume Digest
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery on19th century chemises
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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 13:32:54 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

On Tue, 12 Nov 2002 AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
(snip)
> The ones I have taken are not sharp and unacceptable but from them I can tell
> you'll be able to see each stitch, if I can get the camera to hold steady.
>
> More later....
>
> AlbertCat...budding photographer

Thanks for giving it a go, and good luck!

-- Mara

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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Burn-out, was Re: [h-cost] costuming in rainy weather
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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 13:43:06 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

On Wed, 13 Nov 2002, [iso-8859-1] N Kipar wrote:
> You hit the nail on the head Mara, I have none of those options of the above. I
> am the leader! This is my blooming society, so I lug everything around, with
> two cars and one van and I am SO tired of that stress, of having to care for
> everyone, trying to make sure everyone is happy (mother hen syndrome) dealing
> with the rganisers, having essentially the responsibility, making sure the
> members deal well with the public, making sure I bought all the food, and
> usuallyending up paying lots out of my own pocket towards everything.

Oh, wow... is there any way you can delegate some of this stuff?  In the
groups I'm with, we're all responsible for our own tents, we have pot-luck
food arrangements (some coordinating between members before events to make
sure the essentials are covered, but everyone brings some food), and you
really ought to get other people to chip in monetarily.  No reason you
should finance everything!

> Also,
> setting up 5 tents or so is NOT fun. I think I just had it with all the stress
> and responsibility I don't think that ANY members of ANY group/society realise
> HOW utterly stress and NO-fun their leaders are. I didn't enjoy a single event
> not ever with my society, not a single one other tan the banquet and the pirate
> fun. I was deeply depresed before every event and usually even worse after,
> because I was so exhausted, phyiscally and mentally. I think, quite honestly,
> that I pretty much had it.
> Burn out syndrome, badly.
>
> Nicole - working on a fantasy costume instead! Thanks to Teddy and all the
> other lovely people. :-)))

That's why I think I enjoyed St. Mary's so much -- I wasn't the leader; I
showed up, was responsible only for my own role, gear, etc.   I think
that's why I like Market Fair so much, too -- same thing.  I can show up
as an individual and take care of myself, I don't have to worry about
anyone else that much.  If we coordinate beforehand just a little, we
don't get three cook-pots and no fire irons; that works pretty well.

What are the benefits/problems with having group-owned gear?  I rather
like being responsible only for my own tent...

Cheers,
Mara

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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 11:13:26 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Since I'm the one who started the questions about
sizing I wanted to make sure Linda that you added me
to your list of people for the scans.  I e-mailed you
off list but it came back as bounced so please add me
in too.  
 I also received no mailings from the list for Tuesday
but just assumed everyone had been busy and not
posted.
   How do you end the thread on blackwork doing the
reversable Holbien stitch?  On counted cross you can
run the thread back under the row but that's not
reversable, just tidy.  Ditto for other crewel
embroidery where the back doesn't show.  Blackwork
fiends please reply.
                         Cassandra

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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 22:36:16 +0100
Status: RO

Dear Anne Moeller

Sorry of the delay of my answer, i didnt se that you had asked me of
something.

You ask about the difference of the threads i use?
Well the most beautifull of the threads, and the most luxurius of them all
is the silk from Pipers in England. Their thread is so even and fine and it
has the highest glossy shine of all the threads.
But it is the thinnest thread you can imagine. You can make fine tulle net
laces of this thread, and therefore it also is very very slow to embroider
with.
Eterna's silk floss is very lovely. It comes in more than 500 colours. I use
this thread with the dress i am embroidering now. I use 2 threads, It is
stranded with 12 threads so it is quite ekonomic to use. It glides trough
the fabric very easy and i chose this thread because of the high colour
amounts there is to choose from.
Finally the silk chenille thread i use. I dont stitch trough the fabric with
this thread, I only sew it to the fabric with another thread. It is because
this chenille thread is like a hairy caterpillar, full of fur you could
compare it to a pipe cleaner, just it has no wire in it.
If i was as wise as i am now for 2 years ago, i would not have chosen pipers
silk to embroider my suit with. It has taken me very very long time to make,
and i realise now, that if i had chosen Eternas stranded floss in stead, i
would have finished the suit much sooner.
But isnt this life, you get wiser the older you get, and this is what life
is about isnt it?

Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 1:32 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] dress diary updated


> HI Bjarne,
>
> I can't tell you how impressed I am with your wonderful embroideries.  I
> just wanted to know the difference between the threads you are using.  I
> have heard of this Eterna thread but never actually seen or used it.
> Your impressions would be gratefully appreciated.  Thanks,  Anne (who
> has been lurking on this site for over a year and is thrilled with all
> the neat information and gorgeous garb)
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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From: Linda Krecker-Schkred <rhianwen@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress diary updated
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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 16:46:44 -0500
Status: RO

Is there a source for the Eterna silk in the US? Or is this something 
that much be ordered from england?

Linda K-S

At 10:36 PM +0100 11/13/02, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>Dear Anne Moeller
>
>Sorry of the delay of my answer, i didnt se that you had asked me of
>something.
>
>You ask about the difference of the threads i use?
>Well the most beautifull of the threads, and the most luxurius of them all
>is the silk from Pipers in England. Their thread is so even and fine and it
>has the highest glossy shine of all the threads.
>But it is the thinnest thread you can imagine. You can make fine tulle net
>laces of this thread, and therefore it also is very very slow to embroider
>with.
>Eterna's silk floss is very lovely. It comes in more than 500 colours. I use
>this thread with the dress i am embroidering now. I use 2 threads, It is
>stranded with 12 threads so it is quite ekonomic to use. It glides trough
>the fabric very easy and i chose this thread because of the high colour
>amounts there is to choose from.
>Finally the silk chenille thread i use. I dont stitch trough the fabric with
>this thread, I only sew it to the fabric with another thread. It is because
>this chenille thread is like a hairy caterpillar, full of fur you could
>compare it to a pipe cleaner, just it has no wire in it.
>If i was as wise as i am now for 2 years ago, i would not have chosen pipers
>silk to embroider my suit with. It has taken me very very long time to make,
>and i realise now, that if i had chosen Eternas stranded floss in stead, i
>would have finished the suit much sooner.
>But isnt this life, you get wiser the older you get, and this is what life
>is about isnt it?
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 1:32 AM
>Subject: RE: [h-cost] dress diary updated
>
>
>>  HI Bjarne,
>>
>>  I can't tell you how impressed I am with your wonderful embroideries.  I
>>  just wanted to know the difference between the threads you are using.  I
>>  have heard of this Eterna thread but never actually seen or used it.
>>  Your impressions would be gratefully appreciated.  Thanks,  Anne (who
>>  has been lurking on this site for over a year and is thrilled with all
>>  the neat information and gorgeous garb)
>>
>>
>>  _______________________________________________
>>  h-costume mailing list
>>  h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>  http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Nov 13 19:23:49 2002
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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 19:19:18 -0500
Status: RO



Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> 
> Dear Diana.
>
> I made a Dress for Nicole Kipar a coupple of years ago with real handmade
> silverlace decoration on the bodice and the skirt. It was made after the
> pattern in Janet Arnold's book Patterns of Fashion.
> If you go here: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/pembroke.htm
> you can follow how i made this dress from 1660.
> And the finished dress is here:
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/cavalier.html
> 
 I was in awe when I frist saw that gown on Nicole on a website.  I am
doublly in awe of your creation from the lace to the gown. How I wish
you lived nearby. I would love to learn bobbin lace.  The pictures make
it look easy but I know it is far from simple to do.   Equally
impressed.   I think this is where I falls to my knees and chant I am
not worthy.   
 I am reading your website as I type this. I noted the dress from you
have covered in rectangles of fabric.  Can you explain what the are for?

I have Janet Arnolds Book but my drafting skills do not exsist. is there
a way to drape a muslin to get the required shape to make a mockup for a
pattern?  Or am I approaching this backwards?


Diana
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Nov 13 19:34:00 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan shoes
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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 18:33:24 -0600
Status: RO

Actually, IIRC, Mary Janes would work quite well - and they seem to be in
fashion these days, so not too hard to find!
Here's some sketches of actual and speculative shoes from earlier in Tudor
England; one of those looks like MaryJanes.

http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/shoe/SLIST5.HTM

Drea has a great overview of the whole Elizabethan costume, including shoes
(way towards the bottom).

"Cecily has several shoes to wear. They all have thin leather soles and
uppers of leather, velvet or other fabrics. They are lined with wool,
taffeta and satin. Some are slip-on shoes, similar to modern espadrilles.
Others look rather like modern mary janes, with a low-cut top and a strap
across the instep."
http://costume.dm.net/overview.html

Hope this helps!

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Mistress Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot, cod merchant of
Bristol,
BRF FOF

So many books, so little time

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************

>  I realize I have no idea of what kind of shoes would be
> appropriate.  I'm not going to custom-made shoes for 1 dress - does anyone
> have any thoughts on available modern shoes that would look okay?
>
> Janet


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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 19:36:25 -0500
Status: RO



N Kipar wrote:
> 
> Diana, I have to tel you that ther  are NO commercial patterns available for
> the mid 17th to late 17th century that I possibly know of, and I know a
> hellofalot about this period. :-)
> 

> You don't need a 'gown' because essentially, the 'gowns' of the period are
> bodices and skirts, skirts are simple rectangles.

I need to read more.  I was told they were skirts attached to the
bodices. Appreciate the information they were separate pieces.
> 
> ..and that's where I personally fail utterly. Although you could also ask Sarah
> Thursfield to make a pattern for you.
 I too have no skills in drafting patterns.  How do I get in touch with
Ms. Thurfield? 
> and a most beautiful dress it is! still the lovliest costume that i own, i feel
> soooooooooooooo beautiful in it. *grins*
> 
 Nicole this new interest is partly your fault.  I saw your pictures on
a web site that someone sent me. I fell in love with the gown. BTW You
look beautiful in the gown and the setting is a perfect backdrop.  So
you see how you have inspired my desire to make such a gown. I am a
novice when it comes to creating a realistic period gown but I'll keep
trying to make it as correct as I can. Now if only someone who could
draft a pattern would do so commercially. 

Thank you for the inspiration.

Diana
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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 19:40:22 -0500
Status: RO



seamstrix@juno.com wrote:
> 
> I have just received my order from 'The Merchant Venturers' who
> specialize in doing Cavalier/English Civil War styles. The patterns are
> dated from about 1625-1640 but could probably do for fashions thru the
> Commonwealth. I haven't used any of them yet so I can't speak for easy of
> use or fit, but I will let the list know when I try them.
> 
 Karen do they have a web site?  If they do could you post it here?

Thanks,
Diana
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 02:01:52 -0000
Status: RO

On 13 Nov 2002 at 16:15, N Kipar wrote:

> You hit the nail on the head Mara, I have none of those options of the
> above. I am the leader! This is my blooming society, so I lug
> everything around, with two cars and one van and I am SO tired of that
> stress, of having to care for everyone, ....
I don't think that ANY members of ANY 
group/society
> realise HOW utterly stress and NO-fun their leaders are. I didn't
> enjoy a single event not ever with my society, 

That does sound bad. We take turns "autocratting" 
events, so the burn-out level will never be as bad as 
that, but even so, the autocrat usually delegates lots 
of stuff. Once I got used to being the organiser, I 
could enjoy events I was running, and still stay in 
control. Can you not delegate things to others?  Get 
person X to put up the tents, person Y to sort the 
food, and so on?



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Subject: [h-cost] Ending blackwork (WAS: me too Linda)
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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 18:30:14 -0800
Status: RO

At 11:13 AM -0800 11/13/02, Cassandra wrote:
>    How do you end the thread on blackwork doing the
>reversable Holbien stitch?  On counted cross you can
>run the thread back under the row but that's not
>reversable, just tidy.  Ditto for other crewel
>embroidery where the back doesn't show.  Blackwork
>fiends please reply.

I'm probably not "fiendish" enough, since I haven't tried this 
myself, but here's what I've watched people do.

Some people do indeed just pick an area where there's a continuous 
line of stitching on the back, and whip over and over that line with 
their thread for a ways, then tuck it underneath and snip it off. 
This does mean that a few threads on the "wrong" side will look 
suspiciously double-thick, but often they're not too obvious unless 
someone is looking closely.

The method I've been told the "real" experts use is this: bring the 
thread through to the "wrong" side, then push aside the thread of the 
next stitch on that side, and take three or four little teensy 
running stitches with your working thread directly _underneath_ the 
already existing stitch. Then clip off the end and let the stitch you 
pushed aside fall back into place. Supposedly this is enough to hold 
it firm, and with practice I'm told it's next to undetectable.

(I do feel compelled to add, BTW, that according to the experts I 
hear talking, not nearly as much of the blackwork done in the 16th 
century actually _was_ reversible as we used to think. A lot of it 
could have a less neat and tidy back because it was lined with 
something else.)

Hope this helps --
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
_________________________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Ending blackwork (WAS: me too Linda)
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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 18:30:14 -0800
Status: RO

At 11:13 AM -0800 11/13/02, Cassandra wrote:
>    How do you end the thread on blackwork doing the
>reversable Holbien stitch?  On counted cross you can
>run the thread back under the row but that's not
>reversable, just tidy.  Ditto for other crewel
>embroidery where the back doesn't show.  Blackwork
>fiends please reply.

I'm probably not "fiendish" enough, since I haven't tried this 
myself, but here's what I've watched people do.

Some people do indeed just pick an area where there's a continuous 
line of stitching on the back, and whip over and over that line with 
their thread for a ways, then tuck it underneath and snip it off. 
This does mean that a few threads on the "wrong" side will look 
suspiciously double-thick, but often they're not too obvious unless 
someone is looking closely.

The method I've been told the "real" experts use is this: bring the 
thread through to the "wrong" side, then push aside the thread of the 
next stitch on that side, and take three or four little teensy 
running stitches with your working thread directly _underneath_ the 
already existing stitch. Then clip off the end and let the stitch you 
pushed aside fall back into place. Supposedly this is enough to hold 
it firm, and with practice I'm told it's next to undetectable.

(I do feel compelled to add, BTW, that according to the experts I 
hear talking, not nearly as much of the blackwork done in the 16th 
century actually _was_ reversible as we used to think. A lot of it 
could have a less neat and tidy back because it was lined with 
something else.)

Hope this helps --
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
_________________________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns for the mid 1600's
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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 21:45:41 -0600
Status: RO

http://www.themerchantventurer.co.uk/Index3.asp
On Wed, 13 Nov 2002 19:40:22 -0500 Dhannti <dychap@inetone.net> writes:
> 
> 
> seamstrix@juno.com wrote:
> > 
> > I have just received my order from 'The Merchant Venturers' who
> > specialize in doing Cavalier/English Civil War styles. The 
> patterns are
> > dated from about 1625-1640 but could probably do for fashions thru 
> the
> > Commonwealth. I haven't used any of them yet so I can't speak for 
> easy of
> > use or fit, but I will let the list know when I try them.
> > 
>  Karen do they have a web site?  If they do could you post it here?
> 
> Thanks,
> Diana
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] tired of re-enacting,pattern stuff
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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 23:24:19 -0800
Status: RO

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Please add another copy for shavaylah@charter.net


  Linda J. Thompson wrote:

  > Cassandra,
  > When I took my pattern drafting classes at the rep years ago, I got =
a=20
  > handout that showed  a method of upsizing a standard pattern using =
the=20
  > industry calculation method for it. If you would like I will scan it =

  > and send it to you as an attachment to your private email.  If I=20
  > remember it is about 2 or three pages.  Was not extremely =
complicated,=20
  > and is more accurate than the split and spread method.
  >
  > If any on else wants a copy, send me email and I will get a list=20
  > together and send them all at once.



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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Please add another copy for <A=20
href=3D"mailto:shavaylah@charter.net">shavaylah@charter.net</A></FONT></D=
IV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
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lang=3D0=20
  face=3DArial size=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><BR><BR>Linda J. Thompson=20
  wrote:<BR><BR>&gt; Cassandra,<BR>&gt; When I took my pattern drafting =
classes=20
  at the rep years ago, I got a <BR>&gt; handout that showed&nbsp; a =
method of=20
  upsizing a standard pattern using the <BR>&gt; industry calculation =
method for=20
  it. If you would like I will scan it <BR>&gt; and send it to you as an =

  attachment to your private email.&nbsp; If I <BR>&gt; remember it is =
about 2=20
  or three pages.&nbsp; Was not extremely complicated, <BR>&gt; and is =
more=20
  accurate than the split and spread method.<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt; If any on =
else=20
  wants a copy, send me email and I will get a list <BR>&gt; together =
and send=20
  them all at =
once.<BR><BR><BR></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></FONT></BODY></HTML>

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com, Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costuming in rainy weather(was: Flying with a Parasol?)
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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 23:57:16 -0500
Status: RO

On Tuesday 12 November 2002 04:54 pm, Jean Waddie wrote:
> Stevie Gamble <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com> wrote

[text cut here]

> While we can't necessarily tell whether people had shorter skirts for
> bad weather, I'm sure those who had to take care of their clothes had
> simpler, more easily cleaned outfits for muddy days.
>
> I always wonder how short servants wore their skirts, as I struggle up
> steep spiral stairs in castles, even with both hands free for my skirts.
> Is anyone aware of any evidence, for 12th - 14th century?  I just can't
> imagine how they climbed with buckets of water or trays of food.

One could always tuck ones skirts up, as you see in some miniatures depicting 
farm peasants (think Tres Riches Heures du Duc de Barry).



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."
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Subject: [h-cost] Ren Gown on E-bay
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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 23:37:46 -0800
Status: RO

I don't know if this is the proper forum for this, but I just put a Ren
Faire Nobles Gown up for auction on e-Bay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=981738242&ssPageName=ADME
:B:LC:US:1


                        ,%%%,
Joan Broneske       --==% `%%%,
unicorn@softcom.net     |' )`%%,
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Subject: [h-cost] How to make Charlemagne's crown, any ideas?
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 09:01:30 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Okay... I know this is highly ambitious,  but... does anyone have an idea how
to possibly achieve to make something that doesn't look naff or corny but does
look similar to this:

http://www.ruppenthal.de/html/bildreichsk.html

I LOVE the Aachener Kaiserkrone of Karl der Grosse and would like to use the
idea of it, but I can't think how to achieve the metal panels in any kind of
realistic way.

Any and all suggestions most welcome.

Nicole

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Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 06:07:02 -0500
Status: RO



> Is there a source for the Eterna silk in the US? Or is this something
> that much be ordered from england?
>

I don't have the email or web site handy, but I went and dug out the box I
have.  When they started to carry it, they offered a large collection  at a
low price, that was certainly worth it!   Sometimes I just like to fondle
the 460 skeins that I have  - of course, this love-to-touch is one of the
reasons I bought the house I rent an apartment in.  I didn't think that I
would find too many places where I could have a very large room that is
stuffed with fabric, and another bedroom just for sewing!

It is carried by
Yodamo Inc
2023 East Sims Way Suite 183
Port Townsend
WA   98368
360-379-3250    Fax 360-379-2839

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns for the mid 1600's
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 11:35:08 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 
>  I am reading your website as I type this. I noted the dress from you
> have covered in rectangles of fabric.  Can you explain what the are for?

*laughs* I can explain that too, Bjarne had to pad out the dress form because
he had only made dresses for skinny people people. 

> I have Janet Arnolds Book but my drafting skills do not exsist. is there
> a way to drape a muslin to get the required shape to make a mockup for a
> pattern?  Or am I approaching this backwards?

I personally don't thionk that this works, because the shaping of the bodices
is very characteristic, but Bjarne is the knowledgable one.

Nicole

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Subject: Re: Burn-out, was Re: [h-cost] costuming in rainy weather
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 11:48:23 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 
> Oh, wow... is there any way you can delegate some of this stuff?  In the
> groups I'm with, we're all responsible for our own tents,

they ARE my own tents...the problem is when there are people coming from the
continent, they cannot carry tents.
also, there is another member who is poor and can't afford one, which wouldn't
be  aproblem, but it is, because this year she didn't help at all, and I am
sorry, but I am happy to lend a tent but  am not happy when the person does
diddly nothing to even put it up. *sigh*
nope, I think it's not going to be done like that anymore.

we have pot-luck
> food arrangements (some coordinating between members before events to make
> sure the essentials are covered, but everyone brings some food), and you

we have a period food display, so unless someone goes and organises that...
admittedly one other member had organised that once, but i felt so bad in the
end, because he was the only one helping to organise really and practically,
because he was the only one in england and the only one with his own tent etc.

> really ought to get other people to chip in monetarily.  No reason you
> should finance everything!

i try, but i never get everything covered.

> anyone else that much.  If we coordinate beforehand just a little, we
> don't get three cook-pots and no fire irons; that works pretty well.

well, the problem is that i own everything. all gear, all pottery, all tents
(except one) all shelters, all furniture, all glassware, all fier equipment,
all just about everything. pretty much all te others own is their costumes.
admittedly, when they come by plane or train, that is pretty much what they can
carry.

anyway, i shall stop winging now, and start talking about historical costumes
again. :-)

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ren Gown on E-bay
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 11:50:05 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Uhm, I'm sorry Joan, but your images are broken.

Nicole

 --- Joan Broneske <unicorn@softcom.net> wrote: > I don't know if this is the
proper forum for this, but I just put a Ren
> Faire Nobles Gown up for auction on e-Bay.
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=981738242&ssPageName=ADME
> :B:LC:US:1
> 
> 
>                         ,%%%,
> Joan Broneske       --==% `%%%,
> unicorn@softcom.net     |' )`%%,
>                         \_/\ @%%,
>                           __@@" %%%--"""-.%,
>                         /`__|             \%%
>                         \\  \   /   |     /'%,
>                          \]  | /----'.   < `%,
>                              ||       `>> >
>                              ||       ///`
>                              /(      //(
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns for the mid 1600's
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 11:33:38 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 
> I need to read more.  I was told they were skirts attached to the
> bodices. Appreciate the information they were separate pieces.

You were told wrong I'm afraid. If I had known that you wnat to make a gown of
the 1660s, you should have taken my costume class lessons. :-)

>  Nicole this new interest is partly your fault. 

*rubs hands and grins*
we'll get you into the Baroque, kicking and screaming!

 I saw your pictures on
> a web site that someone sent me. I fell in love with the gown. BTW You
> look beautiful in the gown and the setting is a perfect backdrop.  So
> you see how you have inspired my desire to make such a gown. I am a
> novice when it comes to creating a realistic period gown but I'll keep
> trying to make it as correct as I can. Now if only someone who could
> draft a pattern would do so commercially. 

There is, Sarah Thursfield, she of 'medieval tailor' fame. She made a couple of
patterns for me so far.
sarah.thursfield@btinternet.com

Nicole

=====
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URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Nov 14 08:25:50 2002
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From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] How to make Charlemagne's crown, any ideas?
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 13:29:03 -0000
Status: RO

Nicole wrote:

> Okay... I know this is highly ambitious,  but... does anyone have an
idea how
> to possibly achieve to make something that doesn't look naff or
corny but does
> look similar to this:
>
> http://www.ruppenthal.de/html/bildreichsk.html
>
> I LOVE the Aachener Kaiserkrone of Karl der Grosse and would like to
use the
> idea of it, but I can't think how to achieve the metal panels in any
kind of
> realistic way.
>
> Any and all suggestions most welcome.

There is a very large picture at:

http://www.kulmbach.net/~MGF-Gymnasium/bilderdaten/investitur/kaiserkr
one2.JPG

which lets you see a lot of the construction; this is one of my
jewellery passions, almost as desirable as the coronal of Princess
Blanche,  so I have been collecting the wherewithal to tackle the
project. In practical financial terms, copper covered by gold leaf is
the way to go, and you can then use gold plated copper wire in
different guages for much of the rest of the crown. Note that the
pearls are drilled and attached with wires; half pearls weren't used
till much later on, and, of course, all the stones are cabochons, and
claw set.
The metal panels look as if they are probably enamelled, but remember
that the tesserae may be gems.
Have fun!

best wishes
Stevie

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From: Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How to make Charlemagne's crown, any ideas?
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 05:10:08 -0700
Status: RO

On Thu, Nov 14, 2002 at 09:01:30AM +0000, N Kipar wrote:
> http://www.ruppenthal.de/html/bildreichsk.html
> I can't think how to achieve the metal panels in any kind of
> realistic way.

In the SCA, my kingdom has a set of crowns like this, which are
actually hammered plates of metal joined together.

Assuming you don't want to pay a jeweler that much money, I would
suggest working from a base of stiff leather panels.  You could cover
them with some gold silk if you liked, or just decorate the leather.

						...eliz
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Nov 14 09:00:10 2002
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From: Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com>
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 05:32:45 -0700
Status: RO


Duck Brand duct tape has posted the entries and winners for its 2002
contest.  All entries must be made from duct tape, and there are some
really lovely historical, ethnic, and fantasy entries.

The winners this year made Tudor.

Start at http://www.ducktapeclub.com/prom/ and continue with the '2002
Entries' link.

						...eliz

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Nov 14 10:33:16 2002
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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns for the mid 1600's
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 10:31:21 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

On Wed, 13 Nov 2002, Dhannti wrote:
> I have Janet Arnolds Book but my drafting skills do not exsist. is there
> a way to drape a muslin to get the required shape to make a mockup for a
> pattern?  Or am I approaching this backwards?
>
>
> Diana

Hi, Diana,
commercial paper patterns for home sewers didn't exist until sometime in
the mid/late 19th century, though tailors did have some pattern
guidelines and could work from a customer's measurements.

So-- what I do when I'm trying to recreate a historical
garment without a pattern to work from is drape it onto a dress form (or
onto the person for whom the garment is being made).  You can find
instructions on Threads Magazine's web site for making a duct tape dummy
(you'll need a friend to help you).  For making period clothing, you'll
want to have the dummy made over your figure while you're wearing a period
corset.  There are also some commercially available dress forms that can
be adapted to period shapes (i.e., put your corset onto the dummy).
I've had some problems with this -- I can't get my foam dummy to imitate
my sway back and broad shoulders, and have to have muslins fitted further
once I get them basically mocked up -- but it's a start.

Anyway, what I do is place my copy of Janet Arnold on my sewing table
so I can look at it while I'm draping; then I pin tissue paper (for the
first draft, muslin for the second) to the dress form and mark/cut it
until it looks like the shapes in the book.  This is not that hard, once
you try it and get the hang of it.

Cheers,
Mara

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress diary updated
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 16:01:24 +0100
Status: RO


Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

If you had looked more proper on my homepage, you would have seen a link on
the bottom of the page to Eterna Silk.
It is Threadexpress http://www.threadexpress.com/
I import from Nan Morisette.

Bjarne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Linda Krecker-Schkred" <rhianwen@optonline.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2002 10:46 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress diary updated


> Is there a source for the Eterna silk in the US? Or is this something
> that much be ordered from england?
>
> Linda K-S
>



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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 08:28:47 -0600
Status: RO

Hi,
I found my handout and will be dealing with it this weekend.

Those that want the list must send ME email.  DO NOT POST IT TO THIS LIST PLEASE.  I will 
probably miss you.  (I caught a couple, but not until I had already trashed ones before 
it)....

Thanks
-- 
Linda Thompson

Visit www.seams-to-be.com
where Attitude is Everything

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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 11:18:40 -0500
Status: RO

Nice gown, love the cat

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] How to make Charlemagne's crown, any ideas?
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 11:46:19 -0500
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        I make dolls.  Ok, that isn't the answer to your question, but
give me a minute.  (I also make costumes.)  One of my more recent ladies
was a fabric doll dressed in the coronation gear of QE1.  The crown is
not the same as Charlemagne's, but was still a little challenge.  I
bought a roll of flashing (the stuff they use on roofs) and cut the crown
from that.  Instead of dealing with solder or welding, I just punched
some holes in it and wired it together and covered the wire with pearls
and jewels after spraying it with gold paint.  I see no reason why the
Charlemagne crown couldn't be made from the same stuff.  It is stiff
enough to hold it's shape and thin enough to cut with scissors (NOT your
good fabric scissors).  A little sanding of the edges will smooth it
enough to keep from cutting yourself and any wire will work for the
filigree.  Once the basic crown is done, spray paint it with a good gold
craft paint.  Gold leafing would be a chore on all that filigree, but
would be spectacular.  However, there are some really good paints
available.  Depending on how much money you want to spend, you can get
semi precious cabs and cultured pears from several sources or you can go
to the craft store and get the plastic "jewels and pearls".  The pictures
you will either have to paint yourself, have a friend paint for you, or
print them out the right size and glue them on.  Half the fun in
costuming is trying to work out inexpensive ways of doing expensive
things so that they look good.  Enjoy

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
----__JNP_000_6272.61fc.5dc2
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<DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I make dolls.&nbsp; Ok, =
that=20
isn't the answer to your question, but give me a minute.&nbsp; (I also make=
=20
costumes.)&nbsp; One of my more recent ladies was a fabric doll dressed in =
the=20
coronation gear of QE1.&nbsp; The crown is not the same as Charlemagne's, =
but=20
was still a little challenge.&nbsp; I bought a roll of flashing (the stuff =
they=20
use on roofs) and cut the crown from that.&nbsp; Instead of dealing with =
solder=20
or welding, I just punched some holes in it and wired it together and =
covered=20
the wire with pearls and jewels after spraying it with gold paint.&nbsp; I =
see=20
no reason why the Charlemagne crown couldn't be made from the same stuff.&=
nbsp;=20
It is stiff enough to hold it's shape and thin enough to cut with scissors=
=20
(<U>NOT</U> your good fabric scissors).&nbsp; A little sanding of the edges=
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smooth it enough to keep from cutting yourself and any wire will work for =
the=20
filigree.&nbsp; Once the basic crown is done, spray paint it with a good =
gold=20
craft paint.&nbsp; Gold leafing would be a chore on all that filigree, but =
would=20
be spectacular.&nbsp; However, there are some really good paints=20
available.&nbsp; Depending on how much money you want to spend, you can get=
 semi=20
precious cabs and cultured pears from several sources or you can go to the =
craft=20
store and get the plastic "jewels and pearls".&nbsp; The pictures you will=
=20
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out=20
the right size and glue them on.&nbsp; Half the fun in costuming is trying =
to=20
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good.&nbsp; Enjoy</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Lalah<BR>Never give up, Never surrender<BR></DIV></BODY></HTML>

----__JNP_000_6272.61fc.5dc2--

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Subject: Re: Burn-out, was Re: [h-cost] costuming in rainy weather
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 11:26:46 -0500
Status: RO

<<<well, the problem is that i own everything. all gear, all pottery, all
tents
(except one) all shelters, all furniture, all glassware, all fier
equipment,
all just about everything. pretty much all te others own is their
costumes.
admittedly, when they come by plane or train, that is pretty much what
they can
carry>>>

        It strikes me that you have let them run roughshod over you.  You
furnish everything, finance everything, and then do all the work.  NOT! 
You furnish all that stuff, the least the rest of them could do is to put
it up and help with the work.  If you quit, they will find out fast
enough how much they owe you.  Let them wing it a couple of events and
see if they aren't happy to do their share in the future.

        And as to a costume comment your pictures in the unbelievable
gown Bjarne created were the inspiration for a doll I dressed recently. 
Of course, she is in red because that is my color, but I dream of being
able to wear something as lovely as your gown.  Fat old ladies don't wear
that sort of gown well, but you sure do.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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In a message dated 11/14/02 3:57:11 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com writes:


> Uhm, I'm sorry Joan, but your images are broken.
> 
> Nicole
> 
> --- Joan Broneske <unicorn@softcom.net> wrote: > I don't know if this is 
> the
> proper forum for this, but I just put a Ren
> > Faire Nobles Gown up for auction on e-Bay.
> > 
> > 

Nicole,

Just put in this much of the link.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=981738242

Kit

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 11/14/02 3:57:11 AM Pacific Standard Time, nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Uhm, I'm sorry Joan, but your images are broken.<BR>
<BR>
Nicole<BR>
<BR>
--- Joan Broneske &lt;unicorn@softcom.net&gt; wrote: &gt; I don't know if this is the<BR>
proper forum for this, but I just put a Ren<BR>
&gt; Faire Nobles Gown up for auction on e-Bay.<BR>
&gt; <BR>
&gt; </BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Nicole,<BR>
<BR>
Just put in this much of the link.<BR>
<BR>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;item=981738242<BR>
<BR>
Kit</FONT></HTML>

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How to make Charlemagne's crown, any ideas?
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 13:56:41 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Stevie Gamble <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com> wrote: > 
> There is a very large picture at:
> 
> http://www.kulmbach.net/~MGF-Gymnasium/bilderdaten/investitur/kaiserkr
> one2.JPG

Super, thanks for that one! I have postcards at home, but online versions are
always welcome.

> which lets you see a lot of the construction; this is one of my
> jewellery passions, almost as desirable as the coronal of Princess
> Blanche, 

what does this look like? the name doesn't ring a bell.

 so I have been collecting the wherewithal to tackle the
> project. In practical financial terms, copper covered by gold leaf is
> the way to go,

I actually don't want it to be gold but silver, also, I want the shape, but
different stones and pearls. I was wondering of pewter could be an idea? I'd
rather use silver metal sheet, but where to get something like that?

 and you can then use gold plated copper wire in
> different guages for much of the rest of the crown. Note that the

Now that's a great idea, I suppose there is silver plated wire about as well?

> pearls are drilled and attached with wires; half pearls weren't used
> till much later on, and, of course, all the stones are cabochons, and
> claw set.

Oh yes I know, rememer I COME from Aachen, I have seen the treasury at Aachen
cathedral many times and also the treasures within the cathedral. It is so
gorgeous close up, stunning and I love the roughly set stones, none of that
finely cut business, I much prefer cabochons. Also, there are many stones being
used which are drilled through, this s actually the main way stones and gems
are which are used in the Kaisertreasures. They aren't fastened like that but
must have been used initially for another purpose. Particularly striking in
rock crystalsand the like. Then again the chancel has a Roman bowl in its
centre, set upside down, a bowl cu out of a rock crystal.

> The metal panels look as if they are probably enamelled, but remember
> that the tesserae may be gems.
> Have fun!

Nah, no enammeling here, not even cold enamel, I want to keep it simple but the
shape like the crown and from metal and not that horrid plastiline type stuff.

Cheers Stevie
Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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From: Lee Thompson-Herbert <lee@retro.com>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How to make Charlemagne's crown, any ideas?
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 09:22:04 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


"Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com> wrote:
> Nicole wrote:
> 
> > Okay... I know this is highly ambitious,  but... does anyone have an
> idea how
> > to possibly achieve to make something that doesn't look naff or
> corny but does
> > look similar to this:
> > http://www.ruppenthal.de/html/bildreichsk.html
[...] 
> There is a very large picture at:
> 
> http://www.kulmbach.net/~MGF-Gymnasium/bilderdaten/investitur/kaiserkr
> one2.JPG
> 
> which lets you see a lot of the construction; this is one of my
> jewellery passions, almost as desirable as the coronal of Princess
> Blanche,  so I have been collecting the wherewithal to tackle the
> project. In practical financial terms, copper covered by gold leaf is
> the way to go, and you can then use gold plated copper wire in
> different guages for much of the rest of the crown. Note that the
> pearls are drilled and attached with wires; half pearls weren't used
> till much later on, and, of course, all the stones are cabochons, and
> claw set.
> The metal panels look as if they are probably enamelled, but remember
> that the tesserae may be gems.
> Have fun!

Okay, looking at the large photo, it _would_ be possible to imitate this
look with brass filigree jewelry findings.  Especially as so much of it
is cabochon settings.  I'd start by collecting glass and semi-precious
cabochons first.  The enamelled pannels can be imitated by using 
translucent paints covered with jeweler's epoxy (the brand I use here in
the states is called Epoxy 330).  As Stevie notes, the pearls are drilled,
which reduces the number of stones you'll need to prong-set.  If you're
not going to do any soldering, use medium density fiberboard (MDF) as 
your backing plates and cover those with goldleaf.  You should be able
to glue the filligree pieces down, though you may need to use jeweler's
epoxy to keep things in place (jeweler's epoxy does not yellow or turn
brittle over time).  Note that the pieces between each pannel are beads
strung on wire.  In fact, at the top of each pannel, I see a section
of wire-wrap, a pearl, and what's either a round gold bead or a blob
of gold solder.  

The cross and center arch are going to be the hard parts.  I'd use a piece
of brass strip behind the cross and run it all the way down the length of
the backside of the supporting pannel.  The bottom of the arch is strung
beads again, but you could still use a brass strip for the foundation
and simply cover that with the wired beads.  The top edges appear to 
be patterned wire.  You can either use wire gimp or patterned gold wire.
I'd use gimp, both because it's cheaper and easier to attach.

If done carefully, the results should not look naff.  I've used similar
methods for building stage costume pieces.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] How to make Charlemagne's crown, any ideas?
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 06:57:07 -0700
Status: RO

With metal? <ouch! you've got a good aim when it comes to throwing
things this far....>
Seriously, though, it looks like a major, major project for a
goldsmith/jeweler, no matter what metals you were working with.
Gotta admit, though, I'm not picturing you wearing this with one of your
lovely gowns <g>......<ouch!>
What do you want to use it for?
--Sue

N Kipar wrote:
> 
> Okay... I know this is highly ambitious,  but... does anyone have an idea how
> to possibly achieve to make something that doesn't look naff or corny but does
> look similar to this:
> 
> http://www.ruppenthal.de/html/bildreichsk.html
> 
> I LOVE the Aachener Kaiserkrone of Karl der Grosse and would like to use the
> idea of it, but I can't think how to achieve the metal panels in any kind of
> realistic way.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] tired of re-enacting,pattern stuff
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 07:33:38 -0700
Status: RO

> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
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on 11/14/02 12:24 AM, shavaylah at shavaylah@charter.net wrote:

Please add another copy for shavaylah@charter.net

Me too..  sylvia@ntw.net

Thanx


Linda J. Thompson wrote:

> Cassandra,
> When I took my pattern drafting classes at the rep years ago, I got a
> handout that showed  a method of upsizing a standard pattern using the
> industry calculation method for it. If you would like I will scan it
> and send it to you as an attachment to your private email.  If I
> remember it is about 2 or three pages.  Was not extremely complicated,
> and is more accurate than the split and spread method.
>
> If any on else wants a copy, send me email and I will get a list
> together and send them all at once.






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<TITLE>Re: [h-cost] tired of re-enacting,pattern stuff</TITLE>
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on 11/14/02 12:24 AM, shavaylah at shavaylah@charter.net wrote:<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE><FONT SIZE=3D"2"><FONT FACE=3D"Arial">Please add another copy for s=
havaylah@charter.net<BR>
<BR>
Me too.. &nbsp;sylvia@ntw.net<BR>
<BR>
Thanx<BR>
</FONT></FONT><BLOCKQUOTE><FONT SIZE=3D"2"><FONT FACE=3D"Arial"><BR>
<BR>
Linda J. Thompson wrote:<BR>
<BR>
&gt; Cassandra,<BR>
&gt; When I took my pattern drafting classes at the rep years ago, I got a =
<BR>
&gt; handout that showed &nbsp;a method of upsizing a standard pattern usin=
g the <BR>
&gt; industry calculation method for it. If you would like I will scan it <=
BR>
&gt; and send it to you as an attachment to your private email. &nbsp;If I =
<BR>
&gt; remember it is about 2 or three pages. &nbsp;Was not extremely complic=
ated, <BR>
&gt; and is more accurate than the split and spread method.<BR>
&gt;<BR>
&gt; If any on else wants a copy, send me email and I will get a list <BR>
&gt; together and send them all at once.<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</FONT></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
</BODY>
</HTML>


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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 10:09:48 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Hey there, list.  While wandering around the web, I discovered that one of
our listmembers has a new book published!

"Dressing Renaissance Florence: Families, Fortunes, and Fine Clothing" by
Carole Collier Frick. Here's a review I read of it:

> I just devoured my copy of "Dressing Renaissance Florence: Families,
> Fortunes, and Fine Clothing" by Carole Collier Frick.
>
> I'm extremely impressed. I think this book would make an outstanding
> addition to any Italian persona's bookshelf.
>
> It is not about how to make Italian-persona clothing. Instead, it
> focuses on how Florentines of the Renaissance used clothing to make
> social statements. Along the way, it examines some things that
> garbmakers would like hearing about (one table lists various color
> combinations found in gowns and linings), but mostly, it's about the
> sociology of fashion.
>
> Chapters:
>
> * Tailors and the Guild System
> * Craftspeople (including how guilds were organized and the role
> women played in these guilds, and a map of Florence showing where
> guilds were located in town)
> * Tailors in 15th-c. society
> * Tailoring Family Honor (how Florentines viewed honor and how they
> thought honor was expressed through clothing, and also how clothing
> changed for various occasions like being in private or out in public,
> or going to a convent or serving public office)
> * Family Fortunes in Clothes (how much money got spent on it, and the
> cottage industry in the selling of old clothes)
> * The making of wedding gowns
> * Trousseaux for Marriage and Convent (how they differed, and lists
> of what went into each)
>
> And stuff about sumptuary law, information about layers of clothing,
> types of dyes (and an examination of mourning clothes), types of
> fabric, and clothes as depicted in art -- and how art might have
> distorted how people really wore clothes. Embroidery is also covered -
> - I learned a few things on every page, it seemed like.
>
> Needless to say, the painter Ghirlandaio features pretty prominently
> here. There are also b/w repros of portraits, unfortunately not super
> well detailed, but there are a few here I haven't seen before. There
> are also appendices that are very useful -- lists of currency and
> measures, categories of clothiers, yardage required for various
> garments, glossaries of what yardage terms meant, and a HUGE glossary
> of terms -- bigger than Herald's, I think at first glance. The
> bibliography is extensive as well.
>
> It isn't a huge book, but it's very rich in detail, and the writing
> is pleasant to read. I'd definitely recommend this book to anybody
> wanting to immerse in the period.
>
> YIS,
>
> Vangelista di Antonio Dellaluna
>

Congrats, Carole!

Drea



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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] How to make Charlemagne's crown, any ideas?
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 07:42:15 -0600
Status: RO

Cut then out of heavy gauge sheet brass, with a jewelers saw(slow) or a
spiral saw on a dremel/moto-tool(faster but less control).
solder on the hinges you might see in the Middle eastern plaque dancers
belts. Flexible crown...
(or smaller rectangles of brass/copper prebent to the angle you need)
quick and dirty- epoxy on the tumbled stones,
less quick- epoxy on the settings(maybe bead end caps
would do for the smaller ones) and then the stones
very secure but slow, -solder on the settings and epoxy in the stones.
hoping to be helpful, Betsy

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of N Kipar
Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2002 3:02 AM
To: H-Costume
Subject: [h-cost] How to make Charlemagne's crown, any ideas?


Okay... I know this is highly ambitious,  but... does anyone have an idea
how
to possibly achieve to make something that doesn't look naff or corny but
does
look similar to this:

http://www.ruppenthal.de/html/bildreichsk.html

I LOVE the Aachener Kaiserkrone of Karl der Grosse and would like to use the
idea of it, but I can't think how to achieve the metal panels in any kind of
realistic way.

Any and all suggestions most welcome.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Nov 14 12:17:08 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns for the mid 1600's
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 15:53:41 +0100
Status: RO

Hi Diana.
Covered up in rectangels? What do you mean?
Is it the bodice you refer to?
The bodice is made of 5 pieces of fabric joined together.
A center front part, two side parts and two back parts.

I understand you really would like to make Janet Arnolds bodice?
Since you are familiar with sewing, i could help you out and make a pattern
draft for you after your meassures, but i dont do it for free, if you payed
me a little, i would be willing to help you.
The skirt you dont have to have a pattern for, because it is only shaped
very little at the top, and it is very easy to make. It is the bodice, wich
is rather tricky because of the low cut of the shoulders.
Please let me know off list, if you are interrested.

Bjarne
>  I was in awe when I frist saw that gown on Nicole on a website.  I am
> doublly in awe of your creation from the lace to the gown. How I wish
> you lived nearby. I would love to learn bobbin lace.  The pictures make
> it look easy but I know it is far from simple to do.   Equally
> impressed.   I think this is where I falls to my knees and chant I am
> not worthy.
>  I am reading your website as I type this. I noted the dress from you
> have covered in rectangles of fabric.  Can you explain what the are for?
>
> I have Janet Arnolds Book but my drafting skills do not exsist. is there
> a way to drape a muslin to get the required shape to make a mockup for a
> pattern?  Or am I approaching this backwards?
>
>
> Diana
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Subject: Re: Burn-out, was Re: [h-cost] costuming in rainy weather
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 09:36:33 -0800
Status: RO

At 11:48 AM +0000 11/14/02, N Kipar wrote:

<much snipped>

>well, the problem is that i own everything. all gear, all pottery, all tents
>(except one) all shelters, all furniture, all glassware, all fier equipment,
>all just about everything. pretty much all te others own is their costumes.
>admittedly, when they come by plane or train, that is pretty much 
>what they can
>carry.
>
>anyway, i shall stop winging now, and start talking about historical costumes
>again. :-)

Nicole, you've got more right to winge than any ten other people I 
know, based on this description!  But I suspect that one of the 
things that has gotten you into the position you're in is other 
people's simple inertia.  As long as you're doing all this stuff, 
it's really easy for other people to take it for granted and not even 
realize how much work is involved.  Give them a shaking up -- tell 
them that you're completely burnt out on shouldering so much of the 
work, and that if more people don't start pitching in _now_, they're 
going to have to pitch in and more when you quit.  If that doesn't 
wake them up, then nothing will except actually quitting.

Ok, so someone who's coming a long distance by train can't bring a 
lot of bulky equipment ... but they sure as heck can be there to 
unload and set up when you drive in!  If you're supplying the vast 
majority of the physical gear, it seems to me that you ought to be 
able to expect the rest of the group to "pay their way" with labor at 
the event itself, to say nothing about sharing out the expenses more 
evenly.

An awful lot of good-hearted people are simply sluggish about 
pitching in if it looks like the work is getting done without them. 
So stop making it happen without them.  Tell them you've earned a 
vacation and let them find out first-hand how much you've been taking 
care of.

And -- in the final analysis -- figure out what you _do_ enjoy, and 
make sure you keep doing that.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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From: "Joan Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ren Gown on E-bay
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 10:04:12 -0800
Status: RO

That's odd, I just went to the link and the pictures showed up fine.

Maybe try this - the auction # is 981738242


Joan


----- Original Message -----
From: "N Kipar" <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2002 3:50 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ren Gown on E-bay


> Uhm, I'm sorry Joan, but your images are broken.
>
> Nicole
>
>  --- Joan Broneske <unicorn@softcom.net> wrote: > I don't know if this is
the
> proper forum for this, but I just put a Ren
> > Faire Nobles Gown up for auction on e-Bay.
> >
> >
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=981738242&ssPageName=ADME
> > :B:LC:US:1
> >
> >
> >                         ,%%%,
> > Joan Broneske       --==% `%%%,
> > unicorn@softcom.net     |' )`%%,
> >                         \_/\ @%%,
> >                           __@@" %%%--"""-.%,
> >                         /`__|             \%%
> >                         \\  \   /   |     /'%,
> >                          \]  | /----'.   < `%,
> >                              ||       `>> >
> >                              ||       ///`
> >                              /(      //(
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: nicole@kipar.org
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Everything you'll ever need on one web page
> from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
> http://uk.my.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
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>

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How to make Charlemagne's crown, any ideas?
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 10:47:30 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> I actually don't want it to be gold but silver, also, I want the shape, but
> different stones and pearls. I was wondering of pewter could be an idea? I'd
> rather use silver metal sheet, but where to get something like that?

Jeweler's supply.  Expect to pay a lot of money for it, though.  Those are
going to be awfully big sheets.  Also expect it to bend easily, since silver
is _very_ soft.  

>  and you can then use gold plated copper wire in
> > different guages for much of the rest of the crown. Note that the
> 
> Now that's a great idea, I suppose there is silver plated wire about as well?

It exists, but is harder to find.  Most people use sterling silver wire
and work harden it.  For something like this, I think you're stuck with
using half-hard unless you're willing to anneal it in a kiln.  Or, you could
go back to my suggestion of using silver gimp or bullion with a nickel wire
put down the core for support.  If you're going to use a kiln, then consider
using that to fuse the filligree cabochon settings, as well.  That's actually
pretty close to how much of the granulated goldwork and silver niello were
done.
 
> > pearls are drilled and attached with wires; half pearls weren't used
> > till much later on, and, of course, all the stones are cabochons, and
> > claw set.
> 
> Oh yes I know, rememer I COME from Aachen, I have seen the treasury at Aachen
> cathedral many times and also the treasures within the cathedral. It is so
> gorgeous close up, stunning and I love the roughly set stones, none of that
> finely cut business, I much prefer cabochons. Also, there are many stones being
> used which are drilled through, this s actually the main way stones and gems
> are which are used in the Kaisertreasures. They aren't fastened like that but
> must have been used initially for another purpose. 

A lot of the amethyst and rock crystal stones may have been necklace beads
at one time.  I know the anglo-saxons were especially fond of those combined
with gold wire beads.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Subject: [h-cost] established apparel/textiles writer looking for research/writing work
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 13:33:04 EST
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I'm a New York-based writer actively looking for 
research/writing/proofreading work in the field of textiles and the history 
of apparel/costumes.  I'm a contributing editor with Fairchild Publications 
(for whom I write an average of 2-3 in-depth features per month) and a 
contributing writer for other fashion industry trade publications. I'm also 
an avid hobby weaver and a college writing instructor able to translate 
French, and I'm particularly personally interested in the study of historical 
textiles and costume.  My editors find me adept at conceiving, writing and 
researching well-written stories on tight deadlines and I enjoy strong, 
loyal, long-term relationships with my editors - who seem to be quite pleased 
with my work over a period of many years.  I'm reliable, professional, mature 
and consistent, and I'm a stickler for good grammar and meeting deadlines. 
I'm actively looking for freelance, part-time or full-time writing work and 
I'd love to hear from anybody who needs a professional writer.
Thanks for any tips!
-Julia



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>I'm a New York-based writer actively looking for research/writing/proofreading work in the field of textiles and the history of apparel/costumes. &nbsp;I'm a contributing editor with Fairchild Publications (for whom I write an average of 2-3 in-depth features per month) and a contributing writer for other fashion industry trade publications. I'm also an avid hobby weaver and a college writing instructor able to translate French, and I'm particularly personally interested in the study of historical textiles and costume. &nbsp;My editors find me adept at conceiving, writing and researching well-written stories on tight deadlines and I enjoy strong, loyal, long-term relationships with my editors - who seem to be quite pleased with my work over a period of many years. &nbsp;I'm reliable, professional, mature and consistent, and I'm a stickler for good grammar and meeting deadlines. I'm actively looking for freelance, part-time or fu!
ll-time writing work and I'd love to hear from anybody who needs a professional writer.
<BR>Thanks for any tips!
<BR>-Julia
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ren Gown on E-bay
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 18:35:47 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Lalah T Tillinghast <catpurson@juno.com> wrote: > Nice gown, love the cat

Ahhhh I found the problem now, it works in evil Internet Explorer but not in
Netscape!

Lovely gown, great cat indeed, and oh my, if I had those measurements I would
bid on it.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Italian Renaissance book
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 12:53:51 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Thu, 14 Nov 2002, Drea Leed wrote:

> Hey there, list.  While wandering around the web, I discovered that
> one of our listmembers has a new book published!
> 
> "Dressing Renaissance Florence: Families, Fortunes, and Fine Clothing"
> by Carole Collier Frick. Here's a review I read of it:

Carole Collier Frick is a listmember? I posted a few months ago about a
lecture she gave here in St. Louis at the Gentilischi exhibit, and also
posted separately about the book (post of Aug. 9 titled "Frick on
Renaissance Florence"). No one said anything at the time ... now I will be
more careful to read the Italian Ren threads, which I don't always follow.

Carole, if I knew you were a listmember, I would have said hi after the
lecture. Thanks for an enjoyable time.

--Robin




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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Italian Renaissance book
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 14:02:51 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

I remember saving a post she made to the list a while back (about
gamurras.)

I unsubscribed for half of August, & so didn't see the posting about her
book. I just ordered it, though, and am looking forward to it.  :)

Drea

On Thu, 14 Nov 2002, Robin Netherton wrote:

>
> On Thu, 14 Nov 2002, Drea Leed wrote:
>
> > Hey there, list.  While wandering around the web, I discovered that
> > one of our listmembers has a new book published!
> >
> > "Dressing Renaissance Florence: Families, Fortunes, and Fine Clothing"
> > by Carole Collier Frick. Here's a review I read of it:
>
> Carole Collier Frick is a listmember? I posted a few months ago about a
> lecture she gave here in St. Louis at the Gentilischi exhibit, and also
> posted separately about the book (post of Aug. 9 titled "Frick on
> Renaissance Florence"). No one said anything at the time ... now I will be
> more careful to read the Italian Ren threads, which I don't always follow.
>
> Carole, if I knew you were a listmember, I would have said hi after the
> lecture. Thanks for an enjoyable time.
>
> --Robin
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Italian Renaissance book
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 13:20:22 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Thu, 14 Nov 2002, Drea Leed wrote:

> I unsubscribed for half of August, & so didn't see the posting about her
> book.

Ah, Drea, see what you miss when you leave us for even a little while?

;-)

--Robin

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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 14:46:21 -0500
Status: RO



N Kipar wrote:
> 
 you should have taken my costume class lessons. :-)
> 
 You had a class?   Ok  I am ready for your next one. But beware. I love
asking questions.  Seriously  when is your next class?   

As far as kicking and screaming goes I'll but up a good front so all
think I resisted. LOL

I'll contact Sarah about the pattern too. Thank you very much.
Di
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From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Burn-out, was Re: [h-cost] costuming in rainy weather
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 12:44:58 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Nicole,

I have to agree with Heather.  I'm not quite as
completely kitted out as you now, but I'm getting back
up there, especially in the kitchen department.  

The groups I camp with are a bit more self-sustaining
since they don't have to bus or train to the events,
although I have a couple of bikers.  They also formed
the group before I joined, and the leaders are
gleefully 'blaming' me for the ascent into
authenticity.  *joking grin*  They're a great set of
people, with a three Captain leadership, but getting
them started on things is a trial.  The group always
wants to have a joint kitchen or such, but until I
actually post the menu and costs with "here's the
deadline, speak up or fend for yourself," they don't
commit to camping at the event or say what they'd
like!  Everyone wanted one, but no one was willing to
be the first to speak up.

Use whatever communication method you have set up for
your group and tell them much of what you've told us! 
Point out that it's a joy to be involved in the
recreation, but the work and financial lay-out is
beginning to overwhelm you.  Give some suggestions on
what could help with that...a contribution per event,
people helping with set-up, tear-down and kitchen
maintenance, maybe others who are closer to you could
help with any outside maintenance on the gear or
prepwork on food?  Ask them for other suggestions too,
they may have some ideas especially appropriate to
your reinactment society as opposed to my SCA
knowledge.  If appropriate, give an example of what it
cost you in time and finances for a couple of events. 


Like Heather said, they may not have even thought
about what it was taking for you to provide for them,
or to volunteer to help, since it was getting done
without them saying anything. 


Now for the obligatory costume content...I too am
being led into the dark side of costuming....as in
Victorian, Edwardian, and 1660's.  I'm ordering books
from Lavolta press this week and will be looking for
fabrics in LA on the 2nd next month.

Jonnalyhn/Angharat 





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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How to make Charlemagne's crown, any ideas?
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 12:47:18 -0800
Status: RO


>Okay... I know this is highly ambitious,  but... does anyone have an idea how
>to possibly achieve to make something that doesn't look naff or corny but does
>look similar to this:
>
>http://www.ruppenthal.de/html/bildreichsk.html
>
>I LOVE the Aachener Kaiserkrone of Karl der Grosse and would like to use the
>idea of it, but I can't think how to achieve the metal panels in any kind of
>realistic way.

Your crown, will it be for SCA, for stage, or what?

>Any and all suggestions most welcome.

I made a reliquary once.  I used the thin wood from fruit crates as a base, 
then decorated that.  I used bits cut from metallic gold paper doilies for 
gem settings.  For gems I used those glass blobs stained glass window folks 
use (glass fake gems are period), with the shiny side of aluminum foil 
behind each one (I think backing gems with shiny foil is period).  I used 
pearl beads for pearls (fake pearls are at least Elizabethan, maybe 
earlier), stuck on with long metal sewing pins so the pinheads showed 
(another period trick).  More of the gold doilies went for filigree, with 
plain 'gold' foil underneath to cover every surface that wasn't 
jeweled.  You could string 'gold' seed beads for the edges. Sometime after 
I made this reliquary, I needed money, and someone who had admired it 
bought it from me (yet another period concept).

In the first Indiana Jones film, their Ark of the Covenant was first spray 
painted gold, then Varathaned (I suppose any shiny finish would do).  It 
gave the piece the right colour, and the right shinyness.


Kayta

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From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] How to make Charlemagne's crown, any ideas?
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 20:53:15 -0000
Status: RO

Lee wrote:

> The cross and center arch are going to be the hard parts.  I'd use a
piece
> of brass strip behind the cross and run it all the way down the
length of
> the backside of the supporting pannel.  The bottom of the arch is
strung
> beads again, but you could still use a brass strip for the
foundation
> and simply cover that with the wired beads.

Indeed so, this is a very practical method, but the reason I suggested
copper, rather than brass, is that it is a lot easier for the novice
metal-worker to use. Brass is not user friendly, and work hardens at
the blink of an eye. You can heat patinate copper easily in an
ordinary domestic oven to a yellow gold colour, but if that is
inconvenient then the best option, I think, would be to use gilding
metal, which usually can be bought anyplace copper, brass etc sheet
metal is sold, and is almost as easy to work with as copper is.

You can find just about any wire at
http://www.wires.co.uk/

and if you are lucky they may still be doing the special offer on
gold-plated copper wire at
http://www.wires.co.uk/acatalog/SPECIAL_OFFERS.html

I myself hanker after the finances to buy lots of their pure silver
plated with pure gold, but that's another story...

best wishes
Stevie

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From: "Janet Davis" <castle@erie.net>
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 16:03:28 -0500
Status: RO


Lovely gown, great cat indeed, and oh my, if I had those measurements I
would
bid on it.

My sentiments exactly!

Janet

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From: "Mary Temple" <noxcat@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Italian Renaissance book
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 21:33:02 +0000
Status: RO

My husband surprised me with my copy, and it's definitely worth looking 
forward to!

Mary/Katerine

>I remember saving a post she made to the list a while back (about
>gamurras.)
>
>I unsubscribed for half of August, & so didn't see the posting about her
>book. I just ordered it, though, and am looking forward to it.  :)
>
>Drea
>
>On Thu, 14 Nov 2002, Robin Netherton wrote:
>
> >
> > On Thu, 14 Nov 2002, Drea Leed wrote:
> >
> > > Hey there, list.  While wandering around the web, I discovered that
> > > one of our listmembers has a new book published!
> > >
> > > "Dressing Renaissance Florence: Families, Fortunes, and Fine Clothing"
> > > by Carole Collier Frick. Here's a review I read of it:
> >
> > Carole Collier Frick is a listmember? I posted a few months ago about a
> > lecture she gave here in St. Louis at the Gentilischi exhibit, and also
> > posted separately about the book (post of Aug. 9 titled "Frick on
> > Renaissance Florence"). No one said anything at the time ... now I will 
>be
> > more careful to read the Italian Ren threads, which I don't always 
>follow.
> >
> > Carole, if I knew you were a listmember, I would have said hi after the
> > lecture. Thanks for an enjoyable time.
> >
> > --Robin
> >
> >


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From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] How to make Charlemagne's crown, any ideas?
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 21:40:12 -0000
Status: RO

Nicole wrote:


>>this is one of my
>>  jewellery passions, almost as desirable as the coronal of Princess
>>  Blanche,

> what does this look like? the name doesn't ring a bell.

Beautiful! I haven't been able to track down an image on the net, but
I'll see if I can get a book out of the library next time I'm there,
so I can point you in the right direction.

> I actually don't want it to be gold but silver, also, I want the
shape, but
> different stones and pearls. I was wondering of pewter could be an
idea? I'd
> rather use silver metal sheet, but where to get something like that?

Well, I do it by getting the tube to Farringdon and wandering up to
Hatton Garden, but I'm not well up on your part of the world, and have
got no idea where you might get it. If you look in your local yellow
pages you may find a bullion dealer; if that doesn't work e-mail me
off list.


> Now that's a great idea, I suppose there is silver plated wire about
as well?

Yes; also at
http://www.wires.co.uk/

> > The metal panels look as if they are probably enamelled, but
remember
> > that the tesserae may be gems.
> > Have fun!
>
> Nah, no enammeling here, not even cold enamel, I want to keep it
simple but the
> shape like the crown and from metal and not that horrid plastiline
type stuff.

It is a lovely shape, and I agree on the cold-enammeling. It gets very
tatty very quickly, from what I'm told:-(

best wishes
Stevie

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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 21:35:28 +0000
Status: RO

http://www.eternasilk.com

They have a list of retail sources on the site.

Mary/Katerine

> > Is there a source for the Eterna silk in the US? Or is this something
> > that much be ordered from england?
> >
>
>I don't have the email or web site handy, but I went and dug out the box I
>have.  When they started to carry it, they offered a large collection  at a
>low price, that was certainly worth it!   Sometimes I just like to fondle
>the 460 skeins that I have  - of course, this love-to-touch is one of the
>reasons I bought the house I rent an apartment in.  I didn't think that I
>would find too many places where I could have a very large room that is
>stuffed with fabric, and another bedroom just for sewing!
>
>It is carried by
>Yodamo Inc
>2023 East Sims Way Suite 183
>Port Townsend
>WA   98368
>360-379-3250    Fax 360-379-2839
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 06:40:10 -0800
Status: RO



N Kipar wrote:

>
> > I have Janet Arnolds Book but my drafting skills do not exsist. is there
> > a way to drape a muslin to get the required shape to make a mockup for a
> > pattern?  Or am I approaching this backwards?
>
> I personally don't thionk that this works, because the shaping of the bodices
> is very characteristic, but Bjarne is the knowledgable one.
>

When I made a 1660's gown I had no other clothing from this period to base it
on so I fitted the bodice over my 16th century corset. I realise that this isn't
quite the right shape, but I figured that this was just to make sure it would fit

right and give a roughly conical shape and the different seam lines and boning
patterns of the bodice would give it a more appropriate shape for the period. I
actually created the pattern using elements of bodices from Norah Waugh and
Janet Arnold, sizing it up, so I had the rough shape and then put it over the
corset.

Claire


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Subject: [h-cost] "No Madam, I am NOT a tart!"
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 22:01:18 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,

I've just been having great fun looking at the 2002 Online Costume
ball, and got to the

"No Madam, I am NOT a tart!"

costume, (Group 8, guest 29).  It's beautiful, but I can't stop
giggling; my brain keeps substituting  Teddy's Custard Tart Costume
instead. I think maybe I should go and have a cup of coffee...

best wishes
Stevie

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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 14:43:44 -0700
Status: RO

on 11/14/02 7:28 AM, Linda J. Thompson at LindaJThompson@comcast.net wrote:

> Hi,
> I found my handout and will be dealing with it this weekend.
> 
> Those that want the list must send ME email.  DO NOT POST IT TO THIS LIST
> PLEASE.  I will 
> probably miss you.  (I caught a couple, but not until I had already trashed
> ones before 
> it)....
> 
> Thanks

I would love one.

Sylvia Rognstad
-- 
Divinity Designs and Emeralds
http://www.d-e-designs.com


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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 23:20:02 +0000
Status: RO

Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote
>I also spend a lot more time researching costume issues that have very
>little to do with making clothing -- e.g. the development of costume
>history, or the use of costume in artwork in various periods. These are
>things I just barely touched on when I was re-enacting and didn't have the
>time or resources to pursue.
>
Now here's an opportunity to ask a question, and it touches on 
capes/cloaks as well.

We just got back from a week in Bruges - lucky me!  Lots and lots of 
gorgeous 15th century Flemish altarpieces, especially Memling.  Almost 
all of them feature the Virgin Mary and/or other female saints.  They 
generally have huge amounts of skirt spread about them, but also, very 
commonly, an enveloping cloak that drapes over the head (or behind the 
head, in a way that can't possibly hold if she moves) round the body, 
often over the knees and puddles on the floor.

Obviously, the Virgin is dressed very richly, but I'm wondering if this 
is realistic, or just an artistic opportunity to play with colour 
effects on great swathes of fabric?  Do we have any evidence whether 
Flemish nobility wore large cloaks, indoors, in this way?

It also seems that the donors are always dressed in a different style 
from the saints, and to me it looks earlier than the saints.  The saints 
have brocade gowns, fitted smoothly to the waist and then flared, with a 
fancy girdle at waist or slightly lower.  Necklines are not very 
visible.  The donors are almost always in V-necked gowns, dark with a 
white trim on the V, and flowerpot hennin.  I wonder if the donors are 
dressed in a modest, self-effacing older style, while the saints are in 
the height of fashioin, or have I got my styles mixed up?

I am also chasing down a 16th-century Descent from the Cross, with Mary 
Magdalene wearing the most outlandish hat I have ever seen!  Watch this 
space.

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: "Betsy Marshall" <betsy@softwareinnovation.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] How to make Charlemagne's crown, any ideas?
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 16:29:33 -0600
Status: RO

Nicole- I have a jpg of this coronet- from a research
project on medieval gemstones, shall I send it to you?
Thought I would ask before I dumped
a suspicious attachment into your e-mail box.
Betsy Marshall

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of N Kipar
Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2002 7:57 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How to make Charlemagne's crown, any ideas?


 --- Stevie Gamble <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com> wrote: >
> There is a very large picture at:
>
> http://www.kulmbach.net/~MGF-Gymnasium/bilderdaten/investitur/kaiserkr
> one2.JPG

Super, thanks for that one! I have postcards at home, but online versions
are
always welcome.

> which lets you see a lot of the construction; this is one of my
> jewellery passions, almost as desirable as the coronal of Princess
> Blanche,

what does this look like? the name doesn't ring a bell.

 so I have been collecting the wherewithal to tackle the
> project. In practical financial terms, copper covered by gold leaf is
> the way to go,

I actually don't want it to be gold but silver, also, I want the shape, but
different stones and pearls. I was wondering of pewter could be an idea? I'd
rather use silver metal sheet, but where to get something like that?

 and you can then use gold plated copper wire in
> different guages for much of the rest of the crown. Note that the

Now that's a great idea, I suppose there is silver plated wire about as
well?

> pearls are drilled and attached with wires; half pearls weren't used
> till much later on, and, of course, all the stones are cabochons, and
> claw set.

Oh yes I know, rememer I COME from Aachen, I have seen the treasury at
Aachen
cathedral many times and also the treasures within the cathedral. It is so
gorgeous close up, stunning and I love the roughly set stones, none of that
finely cut business, I much prefer cabochons. Also, there are many stones
being
used which are drilled through, this s actually the main way stones and gems
are which are used in the Kaisertreasures. They aren't fastened like that
but
must have been used initially for another purpose. Particularly striking in
rock crystalsand the like. Then again the chancel has a Roman bowl in its
centre, set upside down, a bowl cu out of a rock crystal.

> The metal panels look as if they are probably enamelled, but remember
> that the tesserae may be gems.
> Have fun!

Nah, no enammeling here, not even cold enamel, I want to keep it simple but
the
shape like the crown and from metal and not that horrid plastiline type
stuff.

Cheers Stevie
Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Nov 14 17:33:07 2002
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costuming in rainy weather(was: Flying with a Parasol?)
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 22:30:55 +0000
Status: RO

Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com> wrote
>On Tuesday 12 November 2002 04:54 pm, Jean Waddie wrote:
>> Stevie Gamble <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com> wrote
>
>[text cut here]
>
>> While we can't necessarily tell whether people had shorter skirts for
>> bad weather, I'm sure those who had to take care of their clothes had
>> simpler, more easily cleaned outfits for muddy days.
>>
>> I always wonder how short servants wore their skirts, as I struggle up
>> steep spiral stairs in castles, even with both hands free for my skirts.
>> Is anyone aware of any evidence, for 12th - 14th century?  I just can't
>> imagine how they climbed with buckets of water or trays of food.
>
>One could always tuck ones skirts up, as you see in some miniatures depicting
>farm peasants (think Tres Riches Heures du Duc de Barry).
>
You start to wonder, when did they ever let their skirts down?  I 
suppose they were quicker at it, but it does take a minute to kirtle 
them securely. But then, I do know some folk/peasant costumes where the 
standard version is with the top skirts tucked up, and they really only 
wear them down for Sundays and festivals.

Jean

-- 
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Nov 14 18:25:00 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "No Madam, I am NOT a tart!"
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 18:23:42 -0500
Status: RO

Stevie,

That none-tart Guest is a h-costume member.... guess who!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2002 5:01 PM
Subject: [h-cost] "No Madam, I am NOT a tart!"


> Hi all,
>
> I've just been having great fun looking at the 2002 Online Costume
> ball, and got to the
>
> "No Madam, I am NOT a tart!"
>
> costume, (Group 8, guest 29).  It's beautiful, but I can't stop
> giggling; my brain keeps substituting  Teddy's Custard Tart Costume
> instead. I think maybe I should go and have a cup of coffee...
>
> best wishes
> Stevie
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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>
>


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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 17:50:30 -0600
Status: RO

Oh! Oh! I think I know! I think I know!!! 

And the reference to Teddy is more appropriate than you may
realize......<G>


Karen




On Thu, 14 Nov 2002 18:23:42 -0500 "Penny Ladnier"
<penny@costumegallery.com> writes:
> Stevie,
> 
> That none-tart Guest is a h-costume member.... guess who!
> 
> Penny Ladnier

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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 17:33:51 -0800
Status: RO

thanks everybody for this thread.  it has  been very instructive.  I am at 
the complete other end where I am just starting out in it.  just putting 
together my initial costume and kit was overwhelming (how did we live 
without e-bay). I am being told now that I really need a pavilion.  It is 
instructive at this point to stop and ask, how far do I want to go on 
this.  I agree that I need a pavilion so I can take naps, but I am going to 
be really careful about assuming responsibility for anyone else other than 
myself .  Luckily, we already have someone who is in charge of things and 
is very autocratic but not at all shy about delegation.  I think that that 
is the key.  You need to let your group know that either they are on board 
or there isn't a ship.  the always funny maryann

  At 09:36 AM 11/14/2002 -0800, Heather Rose Jones wrote:
>At 11:48 AM +0000 11/14/02, N Kipar wrote:
>
><much snipped>
>
>>well, the problem is that i own everything. all gear, all pottery, all tents
>>(except one) all shelters, all furniture, all glassware, all fier equipment,
>>all just about everything. pretty much all te others own is their costumes.
>>admittedly, when they come by plane or train, that is pretty much what 
>>they can
>>carry.
>>
>>anyway, i shall stop winging now, and start talking about historical costumes
>>again. :-)
>
>Nicole, you've got more right to winge than any ten other people I know, 
>based on this description!  But I suspect that one of the things that has 
>gotten you into the position you're in is other people's simple 
>inertia.  As long as you're doing all this stuff, it's really easy for 
>other people to take it for granted and not even realize how much work is 
>involved.  Give them a shaking up -- tell them that you're completely 
>burnt out on shouldering so much of the work, and that if more people 
>don't start pitching in _now_, they're going to have to pitch in and more 
>when you quit.  If that doesn't wake them up, then nothing will except 
>actually quitting.
>
>Ok, so someone who's coming a long distance by train can't bring a lot of 
>bulky equipment ... but they sure as heck can be there to unload and set 
>up when you drive in!  If you're supplying the vast majority of the 
>physical gear, it seems to me that you ought to be able to expect the rest 
>of the group to "pay their way" with labor at the event itself, to say 
>nothing about sharing out the expenses more evenly.
>
>An awful lot of good-hearted people are simply sluggish about pitching in 
>if it looks like the work is getting done without them. So stop making it 
>happen without them.  Tell them you've earned a vacation and let them find 
>out first-hand how much you've been taking care of.
>
>And -- in the final analysis -- figure out what you _do_ enjoy, and make 
>sure you keep doing that.
>
>Heather
>--
>*****
>Heather Rose Jones
>hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
>*****
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 18:46:47 -0700
Status: RO

Who'd you order it from? I think I might have to ...uhm...treat myself
to an early holiday present.
Yeah, that's right.  Research.  Not frivolous at all! <weg>
--sue

Drea Leed wrote:
> 
> I remember saving a post she made to the list a while back (about
> gamurras.)
> 
> I unsubscribed for half of August, & so didn't see the posting about her
> book. I just ordered it, though, and am looking forward to it.  :)
> 
> Drea
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 21:15:34 EST
Status: RO


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Delurking
and
pleading of a copy also, Please!
miscmal@aol.com

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Goudy Old Style" LANG="0">Delurking
<BR>and
<BR>pleading of a copy also, Please!
<BR>miscmal@aol.com</FONT></HTML>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Thu Nov 14 21:56:49 2002
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Bella?= <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
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Subject: [h-cost] Whalebone
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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 13:57:47 +1100 (EST)
Status: RO

I was wondering if there's someone who can help me
with a question that's been running around in my head
(apologies to anyone who sees this more than once).

What were the properties of "whalebone"? Was it supple
or hard, or did it vary from supple when freshly
harvested to hard when dry? I've seen a type of
plastic boning that is referred to as artificial
whalebone, and am wondering how accurate this is.
Janet Arnold mentions the possibility of whalebone in
some of her articles and refers to it as extremely
hard.....



Bella


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From: "Mary Temple" <noxcat@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Italian Renaissance book
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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 06:27:03 +0000
Status: RO

My copy came from Amazon...

Mary/Katerine

>Who'd you order it from? I think I might have to ...uhm...treat myself
>to an early holiday present.
>Yeah, that's right.  Research.  Not frivolous at all! <weg>
>--sue
>
>Drea Leed wrote:
> >
> > I remember saving a post she made to the list a while back (about
> > gamurras.)
> >
> > I unsubscribed for half of August, & so didn't see the posting about her
> > book. I just ordered it, though, and am looking forward to it.  :)
> >
> > Drea
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Nov 15 02:37:28 2002
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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 00:38:37 -0700
Status: RO

I've spent part of the evening puzzling over the sleeve bits in the MoL
book on textiles, with the aim of picking up some authentic details for
a fitted gown I want to make for myself.  There are several mentions of
edgings on things that turn out to be narrow tablet-woven bands, woven
directly onto the raw edge of the sleeve (in the diagram of this in the
book, it looks as if you're simultaneously weaving the edging, and
sewing it into place...with one of the weaving threads, maybe?) I've got
enough cards to do it (from a workshop), and figured I'd probably do it
in silk thread, once I learn it well enough, but what I don't have, is
instructions. argh!
Having managed to thoroughly misplace my only book on tablet/card
weaving, I did some poking on the internet (which I'll explore more this
weekend), but so far I'm not seeing anything like this--folks are
usually talking about belts, or bigger braids.
Any help--recommended how-to books, articles, websites would be very
much appreciated!
--sue
(see what you're making me do, Robin? or do I get to blame Teddy,
too...no, wait, I'll blame him when I'm sticking my fingers, making
cloth buttons....;-)
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Nov 15 03:21:29 2002
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question about tablet weaving...
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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 02:29:06 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Fri, 15 Nov 2002, Sue Clemenger wrote:

> I've spent part of the evening puzzling over the sleeve bits in the MoL
> book on textiles, with the aim of picking up some authentic details for
> a fitted gown I want to make for myself.  There are several mentions of
> edgings on things that turn out to be narrow tablet-woven bands, woven
> directly onto the raw edge of the sleeve ...
> (see what you're making me do, Robin? or do I get to blame Teddy,
> too...no, wait, I'll blame him when I'm sticking my fingers, making
> cloth buttons....;-)

:-) Don't blame me for the tablet-woven edges. They're cool, indeed, but I
can't tablet-weave and don't need another hobby, so I have pointed myself
to the finds that show that other seam edgings were used too, and followed
those as my model. If you tablet-weave your edges, you'll certainly get
extra cheers, but if you decide not to tablet-weave, that doesn't mean
your garment is any less authentic in style.

The cloth buttons are easy easy. Teddy learned from me via email, they're
that easy. But I still generally use metal ones. Plenty of evidence for
those too, and other types as well. You have lots of choices, not just
labor-intensive ones.

--Robin


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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] The Ball is Complete
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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 04:22:44 -0500
Status: RO

Well... someone is arriving late... Teddy.  I will add him when his photo
arrives.  I will let you know when that happens.  For those who have been
watching the Ball, the latest additions start in Group 10.

We have 75 guests to the Online Costume Ball 2002 from 8 countries.
www.onlinecostumeball.com   The guests sent in 108 photos of themselves in
costume.  We have four new categories this year, prom, film, theatre, and
wearable art costumes.  There are a good many film costumes, with Moulin
Rouge, Lord of the Rings, and Star Wars being the popular film costumes for
the year.

Many thanks to our visitors and guests for attending the Ball 2002.  Many
guests provided wonderful front and back views of their costumes.  The
construction webpages that the guests provided a link, will answer a lot of
questions from visitors wanting to know how the costume was made.

Have fun at the Ball!!!!!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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From: "Kala Jathos" <matrixsinger@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] How to make Charlemagne's crown, any ideas?
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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 01:41:48 -0800
Status: RO

Well, I know that the crown was made of seperate panels that are hinged 
together, so they come apart for cleaning.  I don't know if that would help, 
but it's *definately* easier to work panel by panel than to try and make it 
all at once, like a hat.  (I think you can even see the little hinges in the 
photo - it looks like a line of tiny beads, but there's actually a little 
gold pin in there holding the panels together.  I saw a picture once of the 
crown being taken apart for cleaning, but that was in middle school at 
least, and a good 6 years distant.)

-Laura


Re: [h-cost] How to make Charlemagne's crown, any ideas?

  On Thu, Nov 14, 2002 at 09:01:30AM +0000, N Kipar wrote:
  > http://www.ruppenthal.de/html/bildreichsk.html
  > I can't think how to achieve the metal panels in any kind of
  > realistic way.

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From: Deredere & Owen Iskander <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 15:25:37 +0100
Status: RO

Hi,

I just cut out the lining for my 16th century loose gown and found out 
that I bought too much fabrick. :-)
And I was wandering what to make out of it.
It is dark red silk taffeta.
Is it usable for a 1525 Italian gown like this one?
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/CostumeG/Italiandress1525.html
Or a 16th century gown?

Greetings,
        Deredere


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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "No Madam, I am NOT a tart!"
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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 09:25:44 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Almost as funny as being there...Dan and I were promenading around the new
boston faire, Dan in her exceedingly proper gloves, bonnet, etc., when
some lady wandered up and blithely asked her, "So, are you a tart?"

I wish I'd had a camera so I could have captured the "so, do I answer
politely, laugh in her face, or kick this wench's ass" look that appeared
on Danielle's face.  ;)

Drea

On Thu, 14 Nov 2002, Stevie Gamble wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I've just been having great fun looking at the 2002 Online Costume
> ball, and got to the
>
> "No Madam, I am NOT a tart!"
>
> costume, (Group 8, guest 29).  It's beautiful, but I can't stop
> giggling; my brain keeps substituting  Teddy's Custard Tart Costume
> instead. I think maybe I should go and have a cup of coffee...
>
> best wishes
> Stevie
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From: Linda Krecker-Schkred <rhianwen@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question about tablet weaving...
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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 09:38:53 -0500
Status: RO

No!!! Don't tell her that, Robin!!! Encourage her to do this edging 
so she'll write a How-to, post or publish it somewhere for the rest 
of us poor souls who would like to do this but can't figure it out.
:)

Sue, you may very well be the first or one of the first to try this. 
The book you have sited has the only real explanation I've seen of 
this technique. most information about tablet weaving are all about 
separate braids as you have said. although I can't help much here, I 
would like to encourage you to try to figure it out. Both for your 
benefit and the general knowledge base.

Linda K-S

At 2:29 AM -0600 11/15/02, Robin Netherton wrote:
>On Fri, 15 Nov 2002, Sue Clemenger wrote:
>
>>  I've spent part of the evening puzzling over the sleeve bits in the MoL
>>  book on textiles, with the aim of picking up some authentic details for
>>  a fitted gown I want to make for myself.  There are several mentions of
>>  edgings on things that turn out to be narrow tablet-woven bands, woven
>>  directly onto the raw edge of the sleeve ...
>>  (see what you're making me do, Robin? or do I get to blame Teddy,
>>  too...no, wait, I'll blame him when I'm sticking my fingers, making
>>  cloth buttons....;-)
>
>:-) Don't blame me for the tablet-woven edges. They're cool, indeed, but I
>can't tablet-weave and don't need another hobby, so I have pointed myself
>to the finds that show that other seam edgings were used too, and followed
>those as my model. If you tablet-weave your edges, you'll certainly get
>extra cheers, but if you decide not to tablet-weave, that doesn't mean
>your garment is any less authentic in style.
>
>The cloth buttons are easy easy. Teddy learned from me via email, they're
>that easy. But I still generally use metal ones. Plenty of evidence for
>those too, and other types as well. You have lots of choices, not just
>labor-intensive ones.
>
>--Robin
>
>
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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 07:51:14 -0700
Status: RO

Oh, I dunno, Robin.  The dress is your fault, ergo.....;-P
It's nice to know that there were other finishes done for sleeve edges. 
I'm assuming that if I lined my sleeves, this wouldn't be an issue, but
to this point, the only things I've personally seen about finishing
those (sleeve) edges is what I saw in the MoL book. The buttonholes
themselves are reinforced with a strip of fabric (silk, IIRC), and then
there's the narrow band for the raw edge.  Pretty cool!
What other treatments have you seen? It'd be good to have a backup plan
in case this edging falls through.....
This gown is more of an undergown, so I'm using cloth buttons for the
sleeves, and I'll be lacing the front.  I want to make the details as
authentic as possible, both as a learning process, and for this
competition (my main impetus for actually getting it done! <g>) that's
coming up.  The category is "Single Garment--Construction," so the
little, labor-intensive touches are important, I'm thinking <g>. I
wanted to do something completely different from my usual later-16th c.
stuff.  Of course, if this were a non-SCA competition, I'd be entirely
tempted to try my hand at one of those droolsome sack-backed gowns.
I've also got a digital camera, so I'm hoping to take pix of the stages,
and someday put it up on a website like those lovely dress diaries I
see.  That's the theory, at any rate!
--sue, off to get ready for work (hi ho, hi ho.....)

Robin Netherton wrote:
> 

> :-) Don't blame me for the tablet-woven edges. They're cool, indeed, but I
> can't tablet-weave and don't need another hobby, so I have pointed myself
> to the finds that show that other seam edgings were used too, and followed
> those as my model. If you tablet-weave your edges, you'll certainly get
> extra cheers, but if you decide not to tablet-weave, that doesn't mean
> your garment is any less authentic in style.
> 
> The cloth buttons are easy easy. Teddy learned from me via email, they're
> that easy. But I still generally use metal ones. Plenty of evidence for
> those too, and other types as well. You have lots of choices, not just
> labor-intensive ones.
> 
> --Robin
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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 15:32:34 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,

http://www.meg-andrews.com/index.htm

Some achingly beautiful pieces here, with achingly horrendous prices,
but it's really worth a look:-)

best wishes
Stevie

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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 07:30:42 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

> Any help--recommended how-to books, articles,
> websites would be very
> much appreciated!
> --sue

Greetings Sue,

A lady by the name of Dame Helen in the SCA has a
useful page on just this topic:

http://www.damehelen.com/sewing/card.html

I've seen her card-woven edges on a gown up-close and
they're really nifty. 

Best of luck!

-Tasha
(Marcele de Montsegur in the SCA)

=====
"When the blind leadeth the blind. . . get out of the way."
-1st grader's proverb

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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 07:35:53 -0800
Status: RO

Hi all,

Sue, I have actually done the tablet woven edges on the sleeves (and possibly, but I can't remember right now, the lacing strip in the back) of a dress that I did about two years ago.  I can't give you step by step instructions because I haven't done it since.  Depending on the  urgency, I may be able to give some pointers down the road as I have another dress that I'll be doing the same way in the next couple of months.

I do recall that the weft thread only goes one directions.  You sew through the fabric, pull the weft through your warp threads and turn the cards.  Then you loop around under the warp threads to come up through the fabric again.  This is different than a normal tablet weave where your weft thread goes both directions.

Sorry I can't be of more help at the moment.  Let me know if you'd like to hear details when I actually get around to doing this again.

Best regards,

Colleen


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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 10:49:08 -0500
Status: RO

>
> No!!! Don't tell her that, Robin!!! Encourage her to do this edging
> so she'll write a How-to, post or publish it somewhere for the rest
> of us poor souls who would like to do this but can't figure it out.
> :)
>
> Sue, you may very well be the first or one of the first to try this.
> The book you have sited has the only real explanation I've seen of
> this technique. most information about tablet weaving are all about
> separate braids as you have said. although I can't help much here, I
> would like to encourage you to try to figure it out. Both for your
> benefit and the general knowledge base.
>
Definitely try it.  It isn't as hard as it looks.  Warp your tablets for the
pattern you want.  It helps if the thread thickness is similar to the fabric
you are using.  It also helps if you have a selvedge edge to work with, but
it isn't a necessity -- you can work this over a hemmed edge.  Thread a
needle onto the end of your weft.  Start by taking a stitch in the fabric to
anchor the weft.  Then pass the weft through your shed.  Turn your cards,
pass the weft back through, and take another stitch in the fabric.
Continue.  You can also take a stitch at each passing of the weft and get a
tubular edging.  If this isn't clear (it's easier to show than say), let me
know and I'll draw it up for you and send it email.

Good luck and huzzah for creativity!!!
Fuil
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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moll Flanders?
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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 11:36:01 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

I don't recall seeing Angela in it.  It looked like it was made pretty
recently.

Drea

On Wed, 13 Nov 2002 Kitsune242@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 11/13/02 6:14:48 AM Pacific Standard Time, drea@nospam
> writes:
>
>
> > Hello, y'all.
> >
> > I happened upon "The Adventures and Misadventures of Moll Flanders" the
> > other night, on Lifetime.  And was seduced by the scrummy looking gowns.
> > Can anyone (Nicole?)  give a rating on just how accurate the mid-17th c.
> > clothing in that movie was?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Drea
> >
>
> Drea,
>
> Which version was it?  The one with Angela Lansbury?  I have been looking for
> a copy of that for Angela's Files, but am having the worst time tracking it
> down.
>
> Kit
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Unusual 1870's bustle
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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 17:14:51 -0000
Status: RO

Hi,

The Meg Andrews web-sitesite I recommended has, amongst all the more
obvious goodies, an unusual 1870's bustle; large pictures are at:

http://www.meg-andrews.com/engCost/underwear/items/u5030_D.htm

for the Victorian experts amongst us.

best wishes
Stevie

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Subject: [h-cost] MANCHU WOMAN'S FUCHSIA JACKET
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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 17:20:35 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,

One for the embroiderers from the Meg Andrews web-sitesite I
recommended:

http://www.meg-andrews.com/oriental/courtrobes/items/5437_D.htm

and, in much bigger closeup:

http://www.meg-andrews.com/oriental/courtrobes/items/5437b_D.htm

best wishes
Stevie

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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 11:08:15 -0500
Status: RO

<<<Lovely gown, great cat indeed, and oh my, if I had those measurements
I would
bid on it.>>>

        If I had those measurements I would be doing a happy dance in all
kinds of beautiful, fitted gowns.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "No Madam, I am NOT a tart!"
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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 12:28:37 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

So, why in the world did she ask that question?  the red dress thing
again?

Ah, the tactless denizens of the reenacting world... it's hard to know
whether to smack them as they so richly deserve, or, as you say, just
laugh!

- Mara


On Fri, 15 Nov 2002, Drea Leed wrote:

> Almost as funny as being there...Dan and I were promenading around the new
> boston faire, Dan in her exceedingly proper gloves, bonnet, etc., when
> some lady wandered up and blithely asked her, "So, are you a tart?"
>
> I wish I'd had a camera so I could have captured the "so, do I answer
> politely, laugh in her face, or kick this wench's ass" look that appeared
> on Danielle's face.  ;)
>
> Drea

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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "No Madam, I am NOT a tart!"
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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 12:43:19 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

She wasn't a re-enactor, just a visitor.  Yes, it was the turkey red
dress that prompted it.  Funny, how some folks feel completely comfortable
asking dressed-up people questions that they'd never dream of posing to
someone they met on the street.

Drea

On Fri, 15 Nov 2002, Kevin & Mara Riley wrote:

> So, why in the world did she ask that question?  the red dress thing
> again?
>
> Ah, the tactless denizens of the reenacting world... it's hard to know
> whether to smack them as they so richly deserve, or, as you say, just
> laugh!
>
> - Mara
>
>
> On Fri, 15 Nov 2002, Drea Leed wrote:
>
> > Almost as funny as being there...Dan and I were promenading around the new
> > boston faire, Dan in her exceedingly proper gloves, bonnet, etc., when
> > some lady wandered up and blithely asked her, "So, are you a tart?"
> >
> > I wish I'd had a camera so I could have captured the "so, do I answer
> > politely, laugh in her face, or kick this wench's ass" look that appeared
> > on Danielle's face.  ;)
> >
> > Drea
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 18:09:20 -0000
Status: RO

Drea wrote:


> Almost as funny as being there...Dan and I were promenading around
the new
> boston faire, Dan in her exceedingly proper gloves, bonnet, etc.,
when
> some lady wandered up and blithely asked her, "So, are you a tart?"

The mind boggles; if Danielle 'a la perfect demure damsel' could
provoke that enquiry, what on earth the lady would have said to Teddy,
in Custard Tart mode?
Probably better not to think about it...

best wishes
Stevie


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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 12:35:55 -0500
Status: RO

        What a lot of work you went to to put this together.  It was
wonderful and the costumes were great fun.  I must try to get a picture
of one of mine for next year.  Thanks for great site.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Nov 15 13:59:11 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Whalebone
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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 20:01:37 +0100
Status: RO

Dear Bella.

I was so lucky to be allowed to examine some early 18th century stays. They
were heavyly boned troughout with whalebones.
The stayes weighed a ton, this i was very surprised of and very hard to
touch also.
I think the same weight is obtained with steel boning.
As i understand the real whalebone could be steamed and shaped. When cold
again it kept the shape.
This is not something you can do with the artificial plastic boning
The front peaces of these stays, was shaped and the busk was narrowed by
making the linning smaller than the outside, It was impossible to flatten
the front pieces, and it made my work of figuring out how they were cut,
impossible.

Bjarne
Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bella" <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, November 15, 2002 3:57 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Whalebone


> I was wondering if there's someone who can help me
> with a question that's been running around in my head
> (apologies to anyone who sees this more than once).
>
> What were the properties of "whalebone"? Was it supple
> or hard, or did it vary from supple when freshly
> harvested to hard when dry? I've seen a type of
> plastic boning that is referred to as artificial
> whalebone, and am wondering how accurate this is.
> Janet Arnold mentions the possibility of whalebone in
> some of her articles and refers to it as extremely
> hard.....
>
>
>
> Bella
>
>
> http://careers.yahoo.com.au - Yahoo! Careers
> - 1,000's of jobs waiting online for you!
> _______________________________________________
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>


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From: "Kate Cole" <mrscakehole@hotmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Antique clothing websites
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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 19:19:37 +0000
Status: RO

Okay, if you like that website, you HAVE to look at these:

www.antique-fashion.com
www.antiquedress.com
www.vintagetextile.com

Karen Augusta's site (the first of the links above) has some particularly 
spectacular things for the Victorian-obsessive (check out the museum 
archives for stuff sold in the past)

Kate


>
>Message: 2
>From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 15:32:34 -0000
>Subject: [h-cost] rare and unusual costumes and textiles 17th-mid20th
>Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
>Hi all,
>
>http://www.meg-andrews.com/index.htm
>
>Some achingly beautiful pieces here, with achingly horrendous prices,
>but it's really worth a look:-)
>
>best wishes
>Stevie
>
>



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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Whalebone
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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 14:33:44 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

> As i understand the real whalebone could be steamed and shaped. When cold
> again it kept the shape.
> This is not something you can do with the artificial plastic boning

Actually, given a hot iron and some linen, one can.  I wanted to create
some 18th c. stays with the curved boning across the front bust, and so I
took some artificial whalebone, set it between two pieces of linen, put my
iron on the hottest setting, and pressed down while pulling the a.w.to one
side.  It took a while but produced a very nice curve.

Drea


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Fri Nov 15 16:06:01 2002
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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 16:04:03 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

Hi, Bella,
I had the good fortune to go to a workshop given by the staymaker/tailor
at Colonial Williamsburg, who had along with him some real whalebone, of
recent origin so that it wasn't old and brittle.

The stuff is stiff and somewhat flexible, though not so flexible that it
wouldn't break under great pressure.  I think the plastic boning is a good
substitute, but women with any sort of bust will need a busk (wooden
stiffening piece) in the front of their stays for additional shaping.

Cheers,
Mara

On Fri, 15 Nov 2002, [iso-8859-1] Bella wrote:
> What were the properties of "whalebone"? Was it supple
> or hard, or did it vary from supple when freshly
> harvested to hard when dry? I've seen a type of
> plastic boning that is referred to as artificial
> whalebone, and am wondering how accurate this is.
> Janet Arnold mentions the possibility of whalebone in
> some of her articles and refers to it as extremely
> hard.....

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Ball is Complete
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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 16:29:30 -0500
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Thank you Lalah!  The Ball is one of the most pleasurable parts of my job.
It is like opening a Christmas package every time someone sends me an entry.
I love all kinds of costume and it is so much fun to see what people have
made.  It is an honor to provide a place to let people shine in the light
and show off their talents.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
http://www.costumegallery.com
http://www.costumeclassroom.com
http://www.onlinecostumeball.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Antique clothing websites
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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 22:18:30 -0000
Status: RO

Kate wrote:

> Okay, if you like that website, you HAVE to look at these:
>
> www.antique-fashion.com
> www.antiquedress.com
> www.vintagetextile.com
>
> Karen Augusta's site (the first of the links above) has some
particularly
> spectacular things for the Victorian-obsessive (check out the museum
> archives for stuff sold in the past)

Many thanks; I'd come across Karen's site before but the other two are
new to me. The last one pleased me least, since I can't save the large
pictures; if these really are important textiles then it's not
unreasonable to expect to be able to study them in depth.
But given all the stuff on the site about vintage clothing as an
investment it's probably not something the proprietor worries about.
Begin Rant here:
Also, the article purporting to explain real interest rates verges on
the disingenuous. Until I retired in order to spend more time with my
doctors, I was a Specialist Technical Advisor to the Board of Inland
Revenue, dealing with Financial Institutions and Financial
Instruments, of which interest is the most well known. And the stuff
on interest is oversimplified to the point of being misleading.
End Rant

You'll probably have guessed by now that even if I had the dosh I
wouldn't buy from that business:-)

Many thanks for the websites (yes, all of them) there are some
beautiful things to delight the eye, the heart and the mind.

best wishes
Stevie



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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 15:41:56 -0800
Status: RO


> I had the good fortune to go to a workshop given by the
> staymaker/tailor at Colonial Williamsburg, who had along with him some
> real whalebone, of recent origin so that it wasn't old and brittle.
> 
> The stuff is stiff and somewhat flexible, though not so flexible that
> it wouldn't break under great pressure.  I think the plastic boning is
> a good substitute, but women with any sort of bust will need a busk
> (wooden stiffening piece) in the front of their stays for additional
> shaping.

I have a piece given to me at Williamsburg because it was an offcut 
too short for use. It is quite firm and flexible. It acts very much 
like a 1/4" steel stay (but not as rigid as one of the 1/2" stays.) 
The ones that I've seen there and in extant corsets seem to be 1/4" 
or thereabouts. If they are stayed, they seem to use them packed so 
that there is not a stay's width between them or they have large 
areas (like most of the back) with no stay at all in between.

I haven't seen any of the special plastic boning that I've heard 
about. However, other plastic boning that you find in fabric stores 
is *nothing* like whalebone and it is too heat plastic to hold up 
well in a set of stays.

I would like to try reeds but I've found that bamboo type reeds 
(which were recommended to me) didn't work worth diddlysquat. Until I 
get a better sort of reed, I'll stick to two layers of rigeline per 
boning case when I want to get that reed effect.

Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>

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Subject: [h-cost] Whalebone and substitutes
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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 17:46:14 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


I had an idea regarding whalebone, its properties, and our general
inability to get it for costuming.

In elementary school, we learned that whalebone is baleen, which isn't
bone and isn't tooth, but is made of the same stuff as our hair and
fingernails.  More or less the same thing is said about horn.

Do you, the knowledgable folk of h-cost, think that cow horn might work as
a substitute for whalebone when cut to the same dimensions?  Or am I
misremembering or just completely off?

I have never handled real whalebone and haven't worked with either horn
or the plastic artificial whalebone, but I thought there might be the
chance that someone here might have.

emma

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Question about tablet weaving.
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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 19:47:03 -0500
Status: RO

On Fri, 15 Nov 2002, Sue Clemenger wrote:

> I've spent part of the evening puzzling over the sleeve bits in the MoL
> book on textiles, with the aim of picking up some authentic details for
> a fitted gown I want to make for myself.  There are several mentions of
> edgings on things that turn out to be narrow tablet-woven bands, woven
> directly onto the raw edge of the sleeve (in the diagram of this in the
> book, it looks as if you're simultaneously weaving the edging, and
> sewing it into place...with one of the weaving threads, maybe?) I've got
> enough cards to do it (from a workshop), and figured I'd probably do it
> in silk thread, once I learn it well enough, but what I don't have, is
> instructions. argh!
> Having managed to thoroughly misplace my only book on tablet/card
> weaving, I did some poking on the internet (which I'll explore more this
> weekend), but so far I'm not seeing anything like this--folks are
> usually talking about belts, or bigger braids.
> Any help--recommended how-to books, articles, websites would be very
> much appreciated!
> --sue

I have card-woven.
I recommend that you do at least one other project before you card-weaving
finishing onto a sleeve.

Just getting used to changing the shed by turning cards, using tension, putting the
weft through, is enough to deal with for your first time.
If you use about ten cards and thread the weight of ordinary crochet cotton (use
what fiber you will, of course, but cotton's easy and cheap for your first try), you
will get something from 1/2 to 1 inch wide; a couple of feet of which may be used
for garters, and longer pieces are useful all over the place.
I went a bit mad my second or third piece, and made 4-5 meters of strapping,
which I still use, at least 10 years later.

The other thing that you will learn, is the nominclature.

You may also wish to do a second project, using very few cards, with threads
alternating their threading direction (s,z,s,z).
Put the weft through from one side (hold the end so it doesn't just pull through).
Pass the weft bundle or shuttle under the weaving.
Change the shed.
Enter from the first side of weaving again.
So, if you enter from the left side, keep entering from the left side.
Also keep turning the card bundle in the same direction until the twist builds
up so badly you cannot turn the cards any more, and only then start
"unturning" your card bundle (really just turning in the opposite direction).
This very narrow tubular cord can be used to lace your finished garment with,
and, at the same time, is very like the card-woven finish/trim, so you will have
gained useful experience in how to handle the materials.


For the actual trim/finish, use 2-6 cards, threaded s,z,s,z,s,z, in a color to match
your cloth.
Attach your weft (on a needle) to your garment where you want the finish.
* Put the needle through the shed.
Put the needle up through the cloth (go underneath the weft of your card weaving).
Change the shed.
Repeat from *.

The turning pattern on the MOL example is shown as all in one direction.
Pick a direction, where the card pack's front corner is moving away from you,
for example, and keep turning it in that direction.
Two of the examples with any cardweaving attached to a cuff have only
two tablets, and one four tablets, as in their sketch (fig. 134).


Books to learn card weaving from:
Techniques of Tabletweaving by Peter Collingwood (recently back in print), and
Card Weaving by Candace Crocket (ditto, by Interweave Press).
There are other books out there, too.  Try your local library system.


Please ask more specific questions when you get them, and I'll try my best
to answer them (or someone else on this list will know).


Ann in CT


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Whalebone
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Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 13:51:47 +1300
Status: RO

> What were the properties of "whalebone"? Was it supple
> or hard, or did it vary from supple when freshly
> harvested to hard when dry? I've seen a type of
> plastic boning that is referred to as artificial
> whalebone, and am wondering how accurate this is.
> Janet Arnold mentions the possibility of whalebone in
> some of her articles and refers to it as extremely
> hard.....

It might well have been extremely hard taking into account the age of the
stuff.

http://www.marquise.de/en/1900/howto/odds.shtml (And for the person who
mentioned horn, it's discussed a little here too)

She played with some whalebone and came to the conclusion that imitation
whalebone is an excellent substitute. And yes it is different to some of the
usual stuff you can buy as boning.

I finally got my hands on some good quality plastic boning, it's white only
slightly opaque and while it feels soft when you have several meters of it
in hand, once cut it does feel more sturdy:)

Yes, when used in a victorian type corset which follows the curves of the
body it *does* hold the shape. But frankly looking at a number of antique
corsets this is what happened with whalebone. And is mentioned in the page
above.

You can easily straighten it again by ironing it. But as it happened 'in
period' you shouldn't fret too much.

And besides, I've seen the insides of some 1950s couture gowns that used
spiral boning with the exact same effect. Firm shaping and body heat is
going to do that.

However I would warn people to avoid "Polyboning", whatever the manufacturer
is. I think they also make rigiline. It is very soft and will not just form
to your shape but will make bumps and stay in those shapes. Again this was
for a victorian style bodice so you might have some success with a more
conical shorter corset/bodice. Just as rigiline can be used for these shapes
with success, I have used in in double layers zigzagged together and it's
doing pretty well in an hourglass shape even:).

And as Drea said you can curve it using heat and patience, making sure you
protect the plastic from the metal plate of the iron. I sometimes iron it
just between two layers of cotton, or in the boning channels themselves.

While working on Jack of All Trades we were corseted to the eyeballs, and it
was all white imitation whalebone. We'd be in the things (3rd quarter 18thC
style corsets) for up to 15hrs in the blazing sun under lights and in heavy
costumes (fortunately mostly natural fibres). The only things that were
overheating were the wigs and stockings, which weren't made of natural
fibres. The plastic boning in the corsets didn't worry us at all. And they
were solidly boned. Almost fully boned with only a few gaps which were at
the back and sewn in zigzags. Well they were almost directly patterned from
Nora Waugh's Corsets & Crinolines;)

michaela
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce
http://recital.tripod.com/costume


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From: kat@grendal.rain.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Whalebone and substitutes
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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 18:36:05 -0800
Status: RO

Emma wrote:
> Do you, the knowledgable folk of h-cost, think that cow horn might
> work as a substitute for whalebone when cut to the same dimensions? 
> Or am I misremembering or just completely off?

I don't think it would work for several reasons:
1. Cow horn (at least the ones I've felt and worked, or watched being 
worked) tends to be more brittle than the whalebone I have felt. Ie. 
more sudden failure with sharp edges.
2. Whalebone has a structure of long fibres which lends itself well 
to long pieces which cown horn does not have. (This also aids in 
fewer sudden failures with sharp edges, but also in the way it is 
workable.)
3. Cow horns don't always have the long straight sections which 
whalebone has. The edge is also quite thin at the opening compared to 
the tip which means that you also have to work it more in terms of 
getting the thickness even.

Cow bone would work as a replacement for whalebone in thicker pieces 
such as busks, and was occasionally used for such. But wood works 
better and comes more often in lengths which work better too.

Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Whalebone and substitutes
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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 21:59:02 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

I have seen one quote regarding (16th c. ) corsets being boned with horn:

I will have a fine smock of silk ... [and] a French bodie, not of
whalebone, for that is not stiff enough but of horne for that will hold it
out, it shall come, to keep in my belly ...

This hints that, although horn could concievably be used as a boning
material, that it was considered rather extreme compared to whalebone.
I've never seen horn mentioned in any inventories or tailors accounts as a
stiffening material.

As a busk, however, horn was more commonly used.

Good luck and let us know how it goes,

Drea

On Fri, 15 Nov 2002, Emma Elizabeth Lehman wrote:

>
> I had an idea regarding whalebone, its properties, and our general
> inability to get it for costuming.
>
> In elementary school, we learned that whalebone is baleen, which isn't
> bone and isn't tooth, but is made of the same stuff as our hair and
> fingernails.  More or less the same thing is said about horn.
>
> Do you, the knowledgable folk of h-cost, think that cow horn might work as
> a substitute for whalebone when cut to the same dimensions?  Or am I
> misremembering or just completely off?
>
> I have never handled real whalebone and haven't worked with either horn
> or the plastic artificial whalebone, but I thought there might be the
> chance that someone here might have.
>
> emma
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 00:20:11 -0500
Status: RO

Hi, All. I just happen to be working with horn at this time, so I can make some
comment on it's properties. I have not handled whalebone in a few years, and
none made exclusively for the use of stays, so I will limit my comments to what
I know about horn. Horn is pliable when heated, and can be formed. It is, as
someone mentioned, a cuticle product like hair or nails, and has layers which
need to be taken into consideration when cutting or forming it. If the horn is
twisted, as happens with longer pieces, it has to be cut carefully or the
resulting pieces will be curved on a few different planes. Shorter lengths,
while more straight, would probably not be useful in stays. IIRC, it is not as
fibrous as whalebone. It would be then, in my opinion, an inferior, although
useable, product as compared to whalebone. It would take a more careful culling
of horns to get a good stock of straight, long pieces than would probably be
worth the effort if other, better materials such as whalebone and willow were
available.  Mike T.

Drea Leed wrote:

> I have seen one quote regarding (16th c. ) corsets being boned with horn:
>

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Nov 16 01:23:36 2002
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question about tablet weaving...
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Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 00:31:22 -0600 (CST)
Status: RO


On Fri, 15 Nov 2002, Sue Clemenger wrote:

> What other treatments have you seen? It'd be good to have a backup plan
> in case this edging falls through.....

I think it's the MOL book that describes edges with the usual
turn-under-and-stitch finish. I can't recall -- I remember I went through
a lot of books at one point just to get a sense of the variety of options.
There seemed to be plenty.

Another example worth looking at would by the Charles de Blois garment,
which is the same period and has buttoned lower sleeves. Perhaps one of
the books that discusses this -- Payne or Newton for starters -- describes
the finishing.

I'm absolutely swamped right now or I'd hunt it up for you myself -- I'm
just trying to tear through the stacked-up email.

--Robin


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Nov 16 06:03:44 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] MANCHU WOMAN'S FUCHSIA JACKET
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Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 12:06:49 +0100
Status: RO

Dear Stevie.

Thankyou for that, drooling down my t-shirt, got to change that.............

Bjarne


www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, November 15, 2002 6:20 PM
Subject: [h-cost] MANCHU WOMAN'S FUCHSIA JACKET


> Hi all,
>
> One for the embroiderers from the Meg Andrews web-sitesite I
> recommended:
>
> http://www.meg-andrews.com/oriental/courtrobes/items/5437_D.htm
>
> and, in much bigger closeup:
>
> http://www.meg-andrews.com/oriental/courtrobes/items/5437b_D.htm
>
> best wishes
> Stevie
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Whalebone
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Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 12:09:13 +0100
Status: RO

Dear Drea.
Whauw, thanks for that tip, i really must try that. Thanks a lot Drea

Bjarne

www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Drea Leed" <drea@nospam>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, November 15, 2002 8:33 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Whalebone


> > As i understand the real whalebone could be steamed and shaped. When
cold
> > again it kept the shape.
> > This is not something you can do with the artificial plastic boning
>
> Actually, given a hot iron and some linen, one can.  I wanted to create
> some 18th c. stays with the curved boning across the front bust, and so I
> took some artificial whalebone, set it between two pieces of linen, put my
> iron on the hottest setting, and pressed down while pulling the a.w.to one
> side.  It took a while but produced a very nice curve.
>
> Drea
>
>
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Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 12:13:47 +0100
Status: RO


Hi

The problem with kow horns is they are not long enough
When you are making a pair of stays, they should be as long as the bodice.
There are some stomachers here in Denmark wich have wood "bones" Wood would
be something you could use as a substitute

Bjarne

Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Emma Elizabeth Lehman" <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2002 12:46 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Whalebone and substitutes


>
> I had an idea regarding whalebone, its properties, and our general
> inability to get it for costuming.
>
> In elementary school, we learned that whalebone is baleen, which isn't
> bone and isn't tooth, but is made of the same stuff as our hair and
> fingernails.  More or less the same thing is said about horn.
>
> Do you, the knowledgable folk of h-cost, think that cow horn might work as
> a substitute for whalebone when cut to the same dimensions?  Or am I
> misremembering or just completely off?
>
> I have never handled real whalebone and haven't worked with either horn
> or the plastic artificial whalebone, but I thought there might be the
> chance that someone here might have.
>
> emma
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>


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Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 14:25:45 +0100
Status: RO

I browsed those websites with vintage clothing you posted.
Notice this beautifull stomacher: http://www.vintagetextile.com/Earlyall.htm
It is incredible they still sell such old items.



Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kate Cole" <mrscakehole@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, November 15, 2002 8:19 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Antique clothing websites


> Okay, if you like that website, you HAVE to look at these:
>
> www.antique-fashion.com
> www.antiquedress.com
> www.vintagetextile.com
>
> Karen Augusta's site (the first of the links above) has some particularly
> spectacular things for the Victorian-obsessive (check out the museum
> archives for stuff sold in the past)
>
> Kate
>
>
> >
> >Message: 2
> >From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
> >To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> >Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 15:32:34 -0000
> >Subject: [h-cost] rare and unusual costumes and textiles 17th-mid20th
> >Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >
> >Hi all,
> >
> >http://www.meg-andrews.com/index.htm
> >
> >Some achingly beautiful pieces here, with achingly horrendous prices,
> >but it's really worth a look:-)
> >
> >best wishes
> >Stevie
> >
> >
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Nov 16 09:01:34 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] period patterns
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Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 15:04:26 +0100
Status: RO

I just had the news that Castle Rosenborg in Copenhagen is having an
exhibition starting in february next year.
It is about Louise Augusta, the illegitimate child of Struensee and Queen
Caroline Mathilde.
You have probably all seen her portrait, it is often seen in costume books.
She is wearing a Robe a la Reinne, with pink silk ribbon scarf and a green
fan, she is painted by Jens Juel. She lived in the end of 18th century and
well into the next century.
The exhibition is inspired from a new novel called "The love child" -
Kærlighedsbarnet
The exhibition will have items owned by her, and other royal items,
including dresses.
Pattern drafts of the clothes is included in the museum catalog.
One spectacular dress is a beautifull ball dress. Her brother the king
braught it back from the Wiener Convention.

Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 14:33:31 -0000
Status: RO

Bjarne wrote:

----------------------------
I just had the news that Castle Rosenborg in Copenhagen is having an
exhibition starting in february next year.
It is about Louise Augusta, the illegitimate child of Struensee and
Queen
Caroline Mathilde.
You have probably all seen her portrait, it is often seen in costume
books.
She is wearing a Robe a la Reinne, with pink silk ribbon scarf and a
green
fan, she is painted by Jens Juel.
------------------------------------------
I can't track down a copy of that portrait on the Net; do you know if
there is one anywhere?
------------------------------------------

The exhibition will have items owned by her, and other royal items,
including dresses.
Pattern drafts of the clothes is included in the museum catalog.
One spectacular dress is a beautifull ball dress. Her brother the king
braught it back from the Wiener Convention.
--------------------

It sounds absolutely gorgeous!
best wishes
Stevie

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Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 09:41:12 -0500
Status: RO

Bjarne,
Is /will there be a web site for this exhibit? Or a catalog?
***Deb R

> I just had the news that Castle Rosenborg in Copenhagen is having an
> exhibition starting in february next year.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] MANCHU WOMAN'S FUCHSIA JACKET
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Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 14:52:51 -0000
Status: RO

Bjarne wrote:

> Thankyou for that, drooling down my t-shirt, got to change
that.............

You're welcome:-)

You may get your revenge, however. According to Meg Andrews website
she is exhibiting at the

London Textiles, Vintage Fashion & Accessories Fair
Hammersmith Town Hall
King Street
London W6

tomorrow.

If I do go over there I'll take large numbers of handkerchiefs with
me...

best wishes
Stevie

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Subject: [h-cost] 18th century lace cap back
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Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 15:07:15 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,

Well, I am now the proud owner of a 'lovely late 18th Century cap back
'

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=920034761&rd=1

for my costume for the Georgian Ball at Bath next spring. Gulp.
I have found a reference to lace cap backs at the Honiton lace museum,
but it doesn't tell me anything about cap fronts. Or, indeed, whether
there were any fronts.
Help!

best wishes
Stevie

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Subject: [h-cost] ANTIQUE LACE-CIRCA 1760,BRUSSELS LACE
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Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 15:29:10 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,

Another for the lace experts:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=922148372

I'm puzzled as to how anything that delicate could survive for
centuries:-)

best wishes
Stevie

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Nov 16 10:49:26 2002
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From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Antique clothing websites
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Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 10:52:59 -0500
Status: RO

That stomacher is truly gorgeous.  Does anyone know if the embroidery
was done on the silk before the linen backing was put on?  Or was the
linen backing attached first to stabilize the embroidery.  Thanks, Anne

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2002 8:26 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Antique clothing websites


I browsed those websites with vintage clothing you posted. Notice this
beautifull stomacher: http://www.vintagetextile.com/Earlyall.htm
It is incredible they still sell such old items.



Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Nov 16 14:11:47 2002
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From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Huge scans of jewellery, armour, textiles etc
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Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 19:15:18 -0000
Status: RO

Hi,

I don't know if I've mentioned this before, but there are huge scans
of jewellery, armour, textiles and a lot of other things at:

http://rubens.anu.edu.au/

which is the website of Australian National University's database
'ArtServe: Art & Architecture mainly from the Mediterranean Basin and
Japan'

There aren't a lot of textiles yet, but this one is unbelievably
spectacular...

http://rubens.anu.edu.au/raider4/europe.0602/germany/aschaffenburg/sch
loss_johannisburg/museum/textiles/IMGP1701.JPG

and

http://rubens.anu.edu.au/raider4/europe.0602/germany/aschaffenburg/sch
loss_johannisburg/museum/textiles/IMGP1702.JPG

and from France:

http://rubens.anu.edu.au/raid1cdroms/france/tonnerre/hospital/museum/t
extiles/6568.JPG

and

http://rubens.anu.edu.au/raid1cdroms/france/tonnerre/hospital/museum/t
extiles/6598.JPG

though I was pleased to see that I'm not the only person in the world
to manage to photograph a finger:-)

Actually they are all unbelievably spectacular; it is really difficult
to get pictures in such detail that, for example,  you can see all of
the different threads and stitches used.
It's a treasure trove:-)

best wishes
Stevie

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Nov 16 14:30:35 2002
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Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 13:33:23 -0600
Status: RO

Oh my gosh!!
36 pages of really GOOD outfits of colored duct tape!
I called my husband in to see them.
The competition sure got tough this year.

Sheryl Nance-Durst

At 05:32 AM 11/14/02 -0700, you wrote:

>Duck Brand duct tape has posted the entries and winners for its 2002
>contest.  All entries must be made from duct tape, and there are some
>really lovely historical, ethnic, and fantasy entries.
>
>The winners this year made Tudor.
>
>Start at http://www.ducktapeclub.com/prom/ and continue with the '2002
>Entries' link.
>
>                                                 ...eliz
>
>_______________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Nov 16 16:02:43 2002
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Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 14:59:09 -0600
Status: RO

Thank you, you wonderful person!

Sheryl Nance-Durst

At 07:15 PM 11/16/02 +0000, you wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I don't know if I've mentioned this before, but there are huge scans
>of jewellery, armour, textiles and a lot of other things at:
>
>http://rubens.anu.edu.au/
>
>best wishes
>Stevie

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Nov 16 16:04:32 2002
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From: Lalah T Tillinghast <catpurson@juno.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Queen Mary gown
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Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 15:58:25 -0500
Status: RO

        I have been wanting to make the gown pictured at
http://infotrope.net/sca/textiles/costume/pemberton/blackmary.jpg  and
decided to do some research.  Janet Arnold in Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe
Unlocked says that the gown is topped with a partlet.  Ashleford says
that it is one piece.  I tend to go along with Arnold because she really
is an Elizabethan authority and because the picture appears to have a
silk gown with some trim at the top covered by a velvet partlet.  Any
observations from anyone who might have seen a better picture (or the
original) would be appreciated.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Nov 16 16:43:34 2002
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Queen Mary gown
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Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 13:47:06 -0800
Status: RO

At 03:58 PM 11/16/2002 -0500, Lalah T Tillinghast wrote:
>        I have been wanting to make the gown pictured at
>http://infotrope.net/sca/textiles/costume/pemberton/blackmary.jpg  and
>decided to do some research.  Janet Arnold in Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe
>Unlocked says that the gown is topped with a partlet.  Ashleford says
>that it is one piece.  

I'd say it's a partlet.  Look at the way the velvet part is extended beyond
her left shoulder, a one piece gown wouldn't do that.

Margo
"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Photographing Costumes
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Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 13:53:28 -0800
Status: RO

My husband, Wayne, has written an article on costume photography, covering
everything from choosing digital or film cameras, lighting, modeling,
postproduction work, and much more.  You can see it at
www.margospatterns.com.  Enjoy!

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Queen Mary gown
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Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 22:15:01 -0000
Status: RO

Lalah wrote:

>         I have been wanting to make the gown pictured at
> http://infotrope.net/sca/textiles/costume/pemberton/blackmary.jpg
and
> decided to do some research.  Janet Arnold in Queen Elizabeth's
Wardrobe
> Unlocked says that the gown is topped with a partlet.  Ashleford
says
> that it is one piece.  I tend to go along with Arnold because she
really
> is an Elizabethan authority and because the picture appears to have
a
> silk gown with some trim at the top covered by a velvet partlet.
Any
> observations from anyone who might have seen a better picture (or
the
> original) would be appreciated.

You have clearly got magnificent taste; it's a truly lovely gown, but
I'm not familiar with this portrait, beyond the 'rings faint bells'
level, and I can't find an attribution as to where it is or who it's
by. Can you tell me which museum/gallery is it in?

best wishes
Stevie

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Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 17:58:52 -0500
Status: RO

Please note that this fraud notice/email is going out via email.  Ignore it.
I don't even have an  active paypal account with the address it was sent to.
Look below.

Penny Ladnier

----- Original Message -----
From: <service@paypal-ebay.com>
To: "Permission" <permission@costumegallery.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2002 5:20 AM
Subject: Notification of PayPal Limited Account Access


>
> Dear,
>
> PayPal is constantly working to ensure security by regularly
> screening the accounts in our system. We recently reviewed
> your account, and we need more information to help us provide
> you with secure service. Until we can collect this information,
> your access to sensitive account features will be limited.  We
> apologize for the inconvenience, and we would like to restore
> your access as soon as possible.
>
> For more information about the status of your account and for
> instructions on how to restore full use of your account,
> please log in using the link below:
>
> http://www.paypal-ebay.com
>
> We encourage you to log in and restore full access as soon as
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>
> Your Case ID number is: PP-005-177-867
>
> Thank you for your prompt attention to this matter.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> PayPal Account Review Team
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
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I have to second what Nicole said.  If I was even close to those measurements, I'd jump on it.  Good Luck!
Moira
 
Lovely gown, great cat indeed, and oh my, if I had those measurements I would
bid on it.

Nicole


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<P>I have to second what Nicole said.&nbsp; If I was even close to those measurements, I'd jump on it.&nbsp; Good Luck!
<P>Moira
<P>&nbsp;<BR>Lovely gown, great cat indeed, and oh my, if I had those measurements I would<BR>bid on it.<BR><BR>Nicole<BR></P>
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Exactly, Lalah. ;-D  Of course, nobody would be likely to recognize me, either.;-)  A number of people don't even recognize at first now that I'm out of the wheelchair.;-)
Moira

If I had those measurements I would be doing a happy dance in all
kinds of beautiful, fitted gowns.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender


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<P>Exactly, Lalah. ;-D&nbsp; Of course, nobody would be likely to recognize me, either.;-)&nbsp; A number of people don't even recognize at first now that I'm out of the wheelchair.;-)
<P>Moira
<P><BR>If I had those measurements I would be doing a happy dance in all<BR>kinds of beautiful, fitted gowns.<BR><BR>Lalah<BR>Never give up, Never surrender<BR></P>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "No Madam, I am NOT a tart!"
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Wouldn't that imply that Queen Elizabeth I would have been a tart as a young woman?
MoiraSo, why in the world did she ask that question? the red dress thing
again?

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<P>&nbsp;
<P>Wouldn't that imply that Queen Elizabeth I would have been a tart as a young woman?
<P>Moira
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">So, why in the world did she ask that question? the red dress thing<BR>again?<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
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Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 17:50:12 -0800
Status: RO

Charlemagne's crown, or the Crown of Otto I?  Which is the herking great
thing that you see in all the books with the enamel work?

I would ask on the Drachenwald website since the crowns "live" over there.
Also, the Kingdom got new crowns in April (used for the first time in June)
that are drop dead gorgeous AND hinged.  Very easy to carry around and
polish as well as period.  I have a book from an exhibition that must have
taken place sometime in the 30's which brought together all the surviving
crowns they could get their hands on, around 140 or so, and pictured them.
Most of the medieval ones that were not "grave crowns" were of hinged
plaques.

Regina

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Kala Jathos
Sent: Friday, November 15, 2002 1:42 AM
To: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How to make Charlemagne's crown, any ideas?


Well, I know that the crown was made of seperate panels that are hinged
together, so they come apart for cleaning.  I don't know if that would help,
but it's *definately* easier to work panel by panel than to try and make it
all at once, like a hat.  (I think you can even see the little hinges in the
photo - it looks like a line of tiny beads, but there's actually a little
gold pin in there holding the panels together.  I saw a picture once of the
crown being taken apart for cleaning, but that was in middle school at
least, and a good 6 years distant.)

-Laura


Re: [h-cost] How to make Charlemagne's crown, any ideas?

  On Thu, Nov 14, 2002 at 09:01:30AM +0000, N Kipar wrote:
  > http://www.ruppenthal.de/html/bildreichsk.html
  > I can't think how to achieve the metal panels in any kind of
  > realistic way.

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sat Nov 16 22:00:32 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Antique clothing websites
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Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 22:03:23 -0500
Status: RO

I have a vintage clothing website also- not nearly so expensive, but then
again not anything older than 19th Century. Click on my address below
Cordially,
Sue Shatto
401 Fairview Ave.
Frederick, MD 21701
http://www.VictorianMillinery.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kate Cole" <mrscakehole@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, November 15, 2002 2:19 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Antique clothing websites


> Okay, if you like that website, you HAVE to look at these:
>
> www.antique-fashion.com
> www.antiquedress.com
> www.vintagetextile.com
>
> Karen Augusta's site (the first of the links above) has some particularly
> spectacular things for the Victorian-obsessive (check out the museum
> archives for stuff sold in the past)
>
> Kate
>
>
> >
> >Message: 2
> >From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
> >To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> >Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 15:32:34 -0000
> >Subject: [h-cost] rare and unusual costumes and textiles 17th-mid20th
> >Reply-To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >
> >Hi all,
> >
> >http://www.meg-andrews.com/index.htm
> >
> >Some achingly beautiful pieces here, with achingly horrendous prices,
> >but it's really worth a look:-)
> >
> >best wishes
> >Stevie
> >
> >
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Nov 17 00:33:30 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Queen Mary gown
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Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 22:34:20 -0700
Status: RO

I agree with Margo--definitely a partlet.  For one, it's clearly a
different fabric than the main fabric of the gown, and off the top of my
head, I don't recall any examples of gowns done in two fabrics, with the
2nd fabric starting half way up the chest.
--sue

Margo Anderson wrote:
> 
> At 03:58 PM 11/16/2002 -0500, Lalah T Tillinghast wrote:
> >        I have been wanting to make the gown pictured at
> >http://infotrope.net/sca/textiles/costume/pemberton/blackmary.jpg  and
> >decided to do some research.  Janet Arnold in Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe
> >Unlocked says that the gown is topped with a partlet.  Ashleford says
> >that it is one piece.
> 
> I'd say it's a partlet.  Look at the way the velvet part is extended beyond
> her left shoulder, a one piece gown wouldn't do that.
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ANTIQUE LACE-CIRCA 1760,BRUSSELS LACE
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 10:33:23 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Stevie Gamble <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com> wrote: > Hi all,
> 
> Another for the lace experts:
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=922148372

I don't think it's Brussels lace.

> I'm puzzled as to how anything that delicate could survive for
> centuries:-)

I have laces that are appr 100 years older than the one in the piccies, they
come mainly from this seller. She is very recommendable, all her items are
superb.

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century lace cap back
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Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 12:00:49 +0100
Status: RO

Dear Stevie.
Congratulations with your beautifull cap.
I am not an expert with these regency caps, but i would suggest you make
yourself a nice cup of coffe and put on Pride and Prejudice. Then keep your
eyes close to the mother of the daughters. She wears a lot of beautifull
lace caps.

Bjarne

Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2002 4:07 PM
Subject: [h-cost] 18th century lace cap back


> Hi all,
>
> Well, I am now the proud owner of a 'lovely late 18th Century cap back
> '
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=920034761&rd=1
>
> for my costume for the Georgian Ball at Bath next spring. Gulp.
> I have found a reference to lace cap backs at the Honiton lace museum,
> but it doesn't tell me anything about cap fronts. Or, indeed, whether
> there were any fronts.
> Help!
>
> best wishes
> Stevie
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Nov 17 06:17:42 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] period patterns
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Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 12:21:03 +0100
Status: RO

Hi Deb

Rosenborg Castle do have a website, but it only shows the times they are
open.
The exhibition will be in february and the catalog with patterns wont come
before then.
I am going to have it, and if others on this list would like a copy, perhaps
i could do the posting for you.
Ill get back to it in february, promise.

Bjarne
Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: <martyr@gti.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2002 3:41 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] period patterns


> Bjarne,
> Is /will there be a web site for this exhibit? Or a catalog?
> ***Deb R
>
> > I just had the news that Castle Rosenborg in Copenhagen is having an
> > exhibition starting in february next year.
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question about tablet weaving...
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Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 11:37:08 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

 --- Linda Krecker-Schkred <rhianwen@optonline.net> 
> Sue, you may very well be the first or one of the first to try this. 
> The book you have sited has the only real explanation I've seen of 
> this technique. most information about tablet weaving are all about 
> separate braids as you have said. although I can't help much here, I 
> would like to encourage you to try to figure it out. Both for your 
> benefit and the general knowledge base.

Sue Peacock (my BF's mum) from Angelcynn did this several time, and even set up
looms with this, a couple are exhibited at West Stow Anglo-Saxon reconstrcuted
village in Suffolk, East Anglia, in the museum and in the village part itself.
Sadly, Sue passed away this Easter monday, but Richard, her widower, said he is
putting together booklets from all her notes and experiments (she was an avid
natural dyer too). Hopefully her knowledge won't be lost.

Nicole

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Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Cc: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question about tablet weaving...
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Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 12:31:02 +0000
Status: RO

I have done tablet-weaving onto an edge - I used it to make lacing-holes 
to pull my fitted 12th century dress tight at the sides, by sewing it on 
for a bit, then just weaving normally for a bit, then sewing it on 
again.  Because I was nervous about attaching the tablet to the dress 
itself, in case it ripped out, I made little panels, wove onto the edges 
of that, then sewed the panels safely onto the dress.

If you're used to tablet-weaving, it's fairly simple (though it would 
have been easier with the fabric somehow held in a frame as well as the 
tablet-warp), but I agree, I wouldn't do this for your first weaving 
project.  It's tricky to get the tension right while sewing with the 
same thread.

Jean


Linda Krecker-Schkred <rhianwen@optonline.net> wrote
>No!!! Don't tell her that, Robin!!! Encourage her to do this edging so 
>she'll write a How-to, post or publish it somewhere for the rest of us 
>poor souls who would like to do this but can't figure it out.
>:)
>
>Sue, you may very well be the first or one of the first to try this. 
>The book you have sited has the only real explanation I've seen of this 
>technique. most information about tablet weaving are all about separate 
>braids as you have said. although I can't help much here, I would like 
>to encourage you to try to figure it out. Both for your benefit and the 
>general knowledge base.
>
>Linda K-S
>
>At 2:29 AM -0600 11/15/02, Robin Netherton wrote:
>>On Fri, 15 Nov 2002, Sue Clemenger wrote:
>>
>>>  I've spent part of the evening puzzling over the sleeve bits in the MoL
>>>  book on textiles, with the aim of picking up some authentic details for
>>>  a fitted gown I want to make for myself.  There are several mentions of
>>>  edgings on things that turn out to be narrow tablet-woven bands, woven
>>>  directly onto the raw edge of the sleeve ...
>>>  (see what you're making me do, Robin? or do I get to blame Teddy,
>>>  too...no, wait, I'll blame him when I'm sticking my fingers, making
>>>  cloth buttons....;-)
>>
>>:-) Don't blame me for the tablet-woven edges. They're cool, indeed, but I
>>can't tablet-weave and don't need another hobby, so I have pointed myself
>>to the finds that show that other seam edgings were used too, and followed
>>those as my model. If you tablet-weave your edges, you'll certainly get
>>extra cheers, but if you decide not to tablet-weave, that doesn't mean
>>your garment is any less authentic in style.
>>
>>The cloth buttons are easy easy. Teddy learned from me via email, they're
>>that easy. But I still generally use metal ones. Plenty of evidence for
>>those too, and other types as well. You have lots of choices, not just
>>labor-intensive ones.
>>
>>--Robin
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Nov 17 09:15:13 2002
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From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ANTIQUE LACE-CIRCA 1760,BRUSSELS LACE
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Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 14:18:47 -0000
Status: RO

Nicole wrote, of

> > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=922148372
>
> I don't think it's Brussels lace.

I must confess that my copy of Pat Earnshaw's book is currently buried
beneath stacks of material and fur, awaiting my creation of a Macbeth
of barbaric splendour which I hope may be somewhat closer to the
period than the costuming one normally sees. Provided, that is, I can
persuade my lungs to behave themselves for a while.
So I should be grateful for clarification of why it's not Brussels
lace, and what it is instead:-)

best wishes
Stevie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century lace cap back
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Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 14:25:11 -0000
Status: RO


Bjarne said:

i would suggest you make
> yourself a nice cup of coffe and put on Pride and Prejudice. Then
keep your
> eyes close to the mother of the daughters. She wears a lot of
beautifull
> lace caps.

Embarassing as this is to admit it, I don't possess the video/dvd/
whatever of Pride and Predjudice.
Book yes, video no.
However, I can probably get the video from the library, so I'll follow
your advice and see if I can get some ideas as to how it looked.

Many thanks
Stevie


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Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 14:51:01 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

Ha! At last! Went to the Re-enactors' market on Friday, bought something like
over 20 meters of diverse linens for 5 pounds per meter! from my favourite
linen people (who are just lovely, BTW) and here is their contact address:

Fabric of Time
Laurie and Elaine
Tel. 0044 (0)1522 595597

The linen is GOOOOOOOOOORGEOUS!

Nicole

=====
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URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 09:34:52 -0700
Status: RO



Saragrace T. Knauf
25313 West Illini Street 
Buckeye, AZ 85326-6431

I'd agree with Margo that it is more likely a partlet.  I am interested
also in anyone's thoughts on the construction of the collar/ruff.  Is
that a jeweled "choker" or is it elaborate embroidery on the gown
(chemise?).  Not the partlet collar.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Queen Mary gown
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Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 11:37:29 -0500
Status: RO

        Thanks, Margo.  I rely on you almost as much as Janet Arnold.  I
am modifying one of you Elizabethan patterns a bit to get the effect. 
The bodice is perfect but the sleeve isn't Elizabethan.  However, the
corset and chemise are made straight from your pattern.  I did cheat a
bit on the underskirt, but the gown I am making now is just a mock up
from some cotton fabric that is pretty if not exactly proper for the
period and will be fine to wear to events in the day time.  The real
thing is waiting until I get the kinks worked out on cheaper fabric.

        Thanks again,

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Queen Mary gown
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Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 11:49:11 -0500
Status: RO

        Thanks Sue, I agree that a two fabric bodice is not something I
have seen documented.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Queen Mary gown
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Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 09:30:12 -0800
Status: RO

At 11:37 AM 11/17/2002 -0500, Lalah T Tillinghast wrote:
>        Thanks, Margo.  I rely on you almost as much as Janet Arnold. 

That is one of the nicest things anyone has ever said to me! Thank you!

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"


See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Queen Mary gown
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Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 12:00:31 -0500
Status: RO

<<<I am interested
also in anyone's thoughts on the construction of the collar/ruff.  Is
that a jeweled "choker" or is it elaborate embroidery on the gown
(chemise?).  >>>

        I have researched this gown to death and the only real problem I
had was when I found Jane Ashelford calling it a solid bodice and not a
bodice with partlet.  The jeweled, embroidered collar is attached to the
chemise and holds the ruff up.  I am going to make it seperately and then
just tack it on as the chemise will go in the washer and I think I want
that collar hand washed.  A bit of a nuisance to take it off, but not as
bad as trying to salvage it from the washing machine.  

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com, "Saragrace Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Queen Mary gown
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Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 12:45:05 -0500
Status: RO

On Sunday 17 November 2002 11:34 am, Saragrace Knauf wrote:

> I'd agree with Margo that it is more likely a partlet.  I am interested
> also in anyone's thoughts on the construction of the collar/ruff.  Is
> that a jeweled "choker" or is it elaborate embroidery on the gown
> (chemise?).  Not the partlet collar.


I think it's both--elaborate blackwork on the (high) collar of the chemise, 
with a red and gold carcanet worn over the collar.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."
 --Flannery O'Connor

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Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 09:50:44 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

>>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Queen Mary gown
>>Lalah wrote:
>>I have been wanting to make the gown pictured at
>http://infotrope.net/sca/textiles/costume/pemberton/blackmary.jpg
>>and decided to do some research.  Janet Arnold in
Queen >>Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlocked says that the
gown is >>topped with a partlet.

  I made this dress for a friend a couple years ago
and we did it as a buckram-lined partlet.
  The dress was 10-yards of 45" wide black raw silk,
with 3-yards of 45" wide black velveteen for the
turned sleeves and the partlet.  1.5yds of 54" wide
red brocade with a gold diamond pattern for the
forepart and undersleeves with 3000 gold beads (3mm). 
It was fully lined with 6-yards of 60" wide black
satin.  We did the plasteron over the front to hide
the lacings, scarlett-work on the cuffs of the
undersleeves and needlelace on the cuffs and around
the edges of the partlet. 
 All told it took 4-people about 3-months, most of
which was spent doing beading, embroidery and lace.   
 
 Underneath she wore a white smock and 4-hooped
farthingale, we boned the bodice and plasteron so
there was no need for a seperate corset.  The partlet
used dress hook & eyes under the arms and a small hook
& eye on the front.  However the 2-times she wore it
we sewed the front of the partlet to the plasteron so
it wouldn't pull up when she moved her arms.
  I have a couple pictures scanned but haven't been
able to post them, they're in Dreamweaver and when I
tried to upload them awhile ago I got an error message
that they were too big.

Sheila

Phoenix, AZ

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From: kat@grendal.rain.com
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Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 10:15:02 -0800
Status: RO

Cathy (responding to someone else) wrote: 
> > I'd agree with Margo that it is more likely a partlet.  I am
> > interested also in anyone's thoughts on the construction of the
> > collar/ruff.  Is that a jeweled "choker" or is it elaborate
> > embroidery on the gown (chemise?).  Not the partlet collar.
> 
> 
> I think it's both--elaborate blackwork on the (high) collar of the
> chemise, with a red and gold carcanet worn over the collar.

I agree with that. Those "chokers" are called carcanets as she said. 
They show up in inventories and some of them still exist (although 
most of them were broken up and set into more "modern" styles in the 
17th and 18th C.) They were worn alone or over a 
shirt/chemise/partlet (of the "under the clothes" style which were 
often highly embroidered) at the neck. There are a number of really 
good portraits illustrating this in the Ronald Lightbown book 
_Medieval European Jewellery_ and the Diana Scarisbrick book 
_Jewellery in Britain 1066-1837_.

The partlets of the "over the clothes" sort often had elaborate gold 
work or black work or white work on the linings in the collar area.

Kat Russell
<kat@grendal.rain.com>

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Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 13:08:04 -0500
Status: RO

        Sheila, that sounds magnificent.  I have black silk dupioni, red
silk satin and black and white velvet as well as the metal lace already
collected.  I am presently doing it in some cotton fabric that I have
available for a mock up.  (Would you believe pink polished cotton for the
overgown?  How bad is that?)  I can't afford to mess up the silk and this
is my first Tudor/Elizabethan.  Well, the first for me.  I dressed
several dolls in Tudor/Elizabethan and one in this very gown.  But doll
size is one thing, a gown for a 5' 9", 160 lb 68 year old lady is a whole
different ball game.  I like the black as it tends to diminish my ample
waistline which the pink sure as heck won't do.   But what the heck, at
my age I can do what I want and I like pink.   I used Margo's pattern for
Elizabethan Ladies to make the corset and chemise (smock).  The bodice
and skirts are easy enough with Margo's patterns.  the partlet and
sleeves are not Elizabethan enough, but I think I have them worked out. 
I love the idea of tacking the partlet to the gown .  I had thought I
might use a fancy pin to hold it, but if I can't find the right one,
tacking should solve the problem as long as I keep my arms down.  Thanks.
 I plan to go with hook and eyes for the front closure.  Stays down the
front edge should keep it from gaping and the corset is going to take the
pressure not the bodice so it should work.  It won't be too big of a
problem as long as I allow myself a couple of hours to get dressed.  I am
really excited about this.  I have been wearing tunics with sideless
surcotes for over a year now and am ready for something a bit prettier.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Nov 17 15:08:23 2002
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ANTIQUE LACE-CIRCA 1760,BRUSSELS LACE
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Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 21:12:40 +0100
Status: RO

Dear Stevie.

I think this lace is a Brussels bobbin (point d'angleterre)
With a droschel ground.
Each stitch has 4 wholestitch made before next stitch is made. It is another
kind of tulle ground. Only tulle dont have stitches but twists in stead of
the 4 wholestitches.
If this make any sense for you?
That it is 18th century, there is no doubts!!!

Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2002 3:18 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ANTIQUE LACE-CIRCA 1760,BRUSSELS LACE


> Nicole wrote, of
>
> > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=922148372
> >
> > I don't think it's Brussels lace.
>
> I must confess that my copy of Pat Earnshaw's book is currently buried
> beneath stacks of material and fur, awaiting my creation of a Macbeth
> of barbaric splendour which I hope may be somewhat closer to the
> period than the costuming one normally sees. Provided, that is, I can
> persuade my lungs to behave themselves for a while.
> So I should be grateful for clarification of why it's not Brussels
> lace, and what it is instead:-)
>
> best wishes
> Stevie
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: "Saragrace Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Irish fine linen supplier
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Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 13:36:08 -0700
Status: RO

Nicole, do you have an address as well as a phone number? 

Saragrace T. Knauf
25313 West Illini Street 
Buckeye, AZ 85326-6431


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of N Kipar
Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2002 7:51 AM
To: H-Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Irish fine linen supplier

Ha! At last! Went to the Re-enactors' market on Friday, bought something
like
over 20 meters of diverse linens for 5 pounds per meter! from my
favourite
linen people (who are just lovely, BTW) and here is their contact
address:

Fabric of Time
Laurie and Elaine
Tel. 0044 (0)1522 595597

The linen is GOOOOOOOOOORGEOUS!

Nicole

=====
Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Irish fine linen supplier-another contact
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Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 13:39:31 -0700
Status: RO



Saragrace T. Knauf
25313 West Illini Street 
Buckeye, AZ 85326-6431

I have been in contact with an Irish linen provider from New York as
well.  His nicest (about 3.5 oz/yard) sells for $15 yard whole sale.
(The not as nice [2.5 oz/yard] but still very nice is $13.00 yard) I am
toying with the idea of buying a couple hundred yards and reselling at
cost plus shipping.  Would anyone be interested?

Sg

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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Nov 17 17:48:34 2002
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Irish fine linen supplier
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Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 22:49:54 +0000 (GMT)
Status: RO

No, sorry, they don't give out their private address on their card. I've been
buying from them for a few years now. I'm afraid you'll have to phone at UK
times.

Nicole

 --- Saragrace Knauf <saragrace@earthlink.net> wrote: > Nicole, do you have an
address as well as a phone number? 
> 
> Saragrace T. Knauf
> 25313 West Illini Street 
> Buckeye, AZ 85326-6431
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of N Kipar
> Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2002 7:51 AM
> To: H-Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Irish fine linen supplier
> 
> Ha! At last! Went to the Re-enactors' market on Friday, bought something
> like
> over 20 meters of diverse linens for 5 pounds per meter! from my
> favourite
> linen people (who are just lovely, BTW) and here is their contact
> address:
> 
> Fabric of Time
> Laurie and Elaine
> Tel. 0044 (0)1522 595597
> 
> The linen is GOOOOOOOOOORGEOUS!
> 
> Nicole
> 
> =====
> Nicole Kipar M.A.
> URL: http://www.kipar.org/
> Email: nicole@kipar.org
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Everything you'll ever need on one web page
> from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
> http://uk.my.yahoo.com
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Nicole Kipar M.A.
URL: http://www.kipar.org/
Email: nicole@kipar.org

__________________________________________________
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Sun Nov 17 20:17:38 2002
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] period patterns
References: <003301c28d79$12e6f3c0$4096fea9@CPQ21932199711> <3DD65908.33560976@gti.net> <00c901c28e2b$6a1d05a0$4096fea9@CPQ21932199711>
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Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 18:19:05 -0700
Status: RO

Hey, Bjarne...you may end of being a proxy purchaser for a bunch of us!
After all, a person can never have too many costuming books.....
--sue, prying herself away from the computer to go back to her
needlework....

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> 
> Hi Deb
> 
> Rosenborg Castle do have a website, but it only shows the times they are
> open.
> The exhibition will be in february and the catalog with patterns wont come
> before then.
> I am going to have it, and if others on this list would like a copy, perhaps
> i could do the posting for you.
> Ill get back to it in february, promise.
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From: "Kendra Van Cleave" <kendrav@attbi.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] New Kyoto Costume Institute book
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Oh my god, it's the motherlode!

There's a new book out called "Fashion:  A History from the 18th to the =
20th Century" that features the collection of the Kyoto Costume =
Institute. =20

This book is ABSOLUTELY AMAZING!  It's 768 pages (I swear, it's a phone =
book!) and practically every page is a gorgeous, glossy, full color =
photo of a costume from the KCI's amazing costume collection.  There's 4 =
chapters on the 18th, 19th, first half of the 20th, and second half of =
the 20th centuries, and they each take up roughly 1/4 of the book.

Best of all, this book reprints many images (it might even be all of =
them, I'm not positive) from the "Revolution in Fashion" and "Evolution =
of Fashion" books, so if you ever wanted either of those, here's your =
chance.

Even better?  It's only $40.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/3822812064//qid=3D103758328=
0/sr=3D1-1/ref=3Dsr_1_1/104-4464235-5172711?v=3Dglance&s=3Dbooks&vi=3Dpic=
tures
Click on "See More Pictures" (under the book cover photo) for scans from =
the book.

- Kendra

------=_NextPart_000_0067_01C28E60.A2E386E0
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1106" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Oh my god, it's the =
motherlode!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>There's a new book out called =
"Fashion:&nbsp; A=20
History from the 18th to the 20th Century" that features the collection =
of the=20
Kyoto Costume Institute.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>This book is ABSOLUTELY AMAZING!&nbsp; =
It's 768=20
pages (I swear, it's a phone book!) and practically every page is a =
gorgeous,=20
glossy, full color photo of a costume from the KCI's amazing costume=20
collection.&nbsp; </FONT><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>There's 4 chapters =
on the 18th,=20
19th, first half of the 20th, and second half of the 20th centuries, and =
they=20
each take up roughly 1/4 of the book.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Best of all, this book reprints many =
images (it=20
might even be all of them, I'm not positive) from the "Revolution in =
Fashion"=20
and "Evolution of Fashion" books, so if you ever wanted either of those, =
here's=20
your chance.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Even better?&nbsp; It's only =
$40.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/3822812064//qid=3D1=
037583280/sr=3D1-1/ref=3Dsr_1_1/104-4464235-5172711?v=3Dglance&amp;s=3Dbo=
oks&amp;vi=3Dpictures">http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/3822=
812064//qid=3D1037583280/sr=3D1-1/ref=3Dsr_1_1/104-4464235-5172711?v=3Dgl=
ance&amp;s=3Dbooks&amp;vi=3Dpictures</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Click on "See More Pictures" (under the =
book cover=20
photo) for scans from the book.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>- Kendra</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Kyoto Costume Institute book
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Thank you kendra... I am going to get this book.. even if I have to buy =
it from Amazon myself;).. however Borders might be an idea....

michaela
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Kendra Van Cleave=20
  To: h-costume@indra.com=20
  Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002 2:42 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] New Kyoto Costume Institute book


  Oh my god, it's the motherlode!

  There's a new book out called "Fashion:  A History from the 18th to =
the 20th Century" that features the collection of the Kyoto Costume =
Institute. =20

  This book is ABSOLUTELY AMAZING!  It's 768 pages (I swear, it's a =
phone book!) and practically every page is a gorgeous, glossy, full =
color photo of a costume from the KCI's amazing costume collection.  =
There's 4 chapters on the 18th, 19th, first half of the 20th, and second =
half of the 20th centuries, and they each take up roughly 1/4 of the =
book.

  Best of all, this book reprints many images (it might even be all of =
them, I'm not positive) from the "Revolution in Fashion" and "Evolution =
of Fashion" books, so if you ever wanted either of those, here's your =
chance.

  Even better?  It's only $40.

  =
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/3822812064//qid=3D103758328=
0/sr=3D1-1/ref=3Dsr_1_1/104-4464235-5172711?v=3Dglance&s=3Dbooks&vi=3Dpic=
tures
  Click on "See More Pictures" (under the book cover photo) for scans =
from the book.

  - Kendra


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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2716.2200" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thank you kendra... I am going to get =
this book..=20
even if I have to buy it from Amazon myself;).. however Borders might be =
an=20
idea....</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>michaela</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Dkendrav@attbi.com href=3D"mailto:kendrav@attbi.com">Kendra =
Van=20
  Cleave</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dh-costume@indra.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, November 18, 2002 =
2:42=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [h-cost] New Kyoto =
Costume=20
  Institute book</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Oh my god, it's the =
motherlode!</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>There's a new book out called =
"Fashion:&nbsp; A=20
  History from the 18th to the 20th Century" that features the =
collection of the=20
  Kyoto Costume Institute.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>This book is ABSOLUTELY =
AMAZING!&nbsp; It's 768=20
  pages (I swear, it's a phone book!) and practically every page is a =
gorgeous,=20
  glossy, full color photo of a costume from the KCI's amazing costume=20
  collection.&nbsp; </FONT><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>There's 4 =
chapters on the=20
  18th, 19th, first half of the 20th, and second half of the 20th =
centuries, and=20
  they each take up roughly 1/4 of the book.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Best of all, this book reprints many =
images (it=20
  might even be all of them, I'm not positive) from the "Revolution in =
Fashion"=20
  and "Evolution of Fashion" books, so if you ever wanted either of =
those,=20
  here's your chance.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Even better?&nbsp; It's only =
$40.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/3822812064//qid=3D1=
037583280/sr=3D1-1/ref=3Dsr_1_1/104-4464235-5172711?v=3Dglance&amp;s=3Dbo=
oks&amp;vi=3Dpictures">http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/3822=
812064//qid=3D1037583280/sr=3D1-1/ref=3Dsr_1_1/104-4464235-5172711?v=3Dgl=
ance&amp;s=3Dbooks&amp;vi=3Dpictures</A></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Click on "See More Pictures" (under =
the book=20
  cover photo) for scans from the book.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>- Kendra</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 18:40:12 -0800
Status: RO


>I'm puzzled as to how anything that delicate could survive for
>centuries:-)

By not ever having been used for anything?  By being packed away safely for 
most of the intervening time?

Kayta

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Subject: [h-cost] Help with French fashion circa 1510
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Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 16:02:00 +1100 (EST)
Status: RO

Hi all,

I've just had a query from my Baroness on an image in
a colouring book called "Renaissance Fashions" by Tom
Tierney. I haven't seen this book or heard of it, and
I've told her that I'll be asking around on all the
costuming lists I'm on, so I'm hoping someone can help
me to help her. 

In it there's a picture of a French lady, circa 1510,
whose gown she wants to document. She hasn't seen
anything like this before, and would like to make sure
of its authenticity before she goes ahead and buys
fabric etc. Unfortunately she doesn't have a scanner
right now, so I'm unable to provide an image...

Here's her description:

"The gown is split to the waist up the front and
doesn't quite reach the ground at the front.  It is
shaped where it hangs to a point and then goes back up
again slightly to give it a hankercheif look, are you
still with me because this is the bit that I'm having
a hard time describing.  It isn't a straight split, it
is from around knee level up and the pieces almost
meet in the middle then it is shaped off to the end in
a V shape like a hanky shape.  The gown is a plain
fabric on top and a brocade lining. It has a train at
the back.  She is wearing a petticoat to the floor
that can be seen below the gown at the front and up to
the waist through the slit, it isn't your cheap nasty
petticoat as it is designed to be seen.  The bodice
part of the gown is just straight across the top of
the bust and is the same fabric as the bottom of the
gown.  The sleeves are made from the brocade and are
bell? shaped and hang to around mid fore arm, below
that she has sleeves that are full and tied at the
wrist.  She is wearing a square neck chemise and I
have no idea on where to start with hat description. 
I'm guessing it would lace up at the back as I don't
have a back view of it."

Does anyone know what the style described is? Is it an
authentic style? Could anyone point me to a picture
from a painting or portrait? 

Many thanks in advance,


Bella

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- 1,000's of jobs waiting online for you!
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] How to make Charlemagne's crown, any ideas?
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Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 09:51:44 -0800
Status: RO

At 5:50 PM -0800 11/16/02, Wanda Pease wrote:
>I have a book from an exhibition that must have
>taken place sometime in the 30's which brought together all the surviving
>crowns they could get their hands on, around 140 or so, and pictured them.
>Most of the medieval ones that were not "grave crowns" were of hinged
>plaques.

Title, author, publisher?

I may add it to my "if it ever turns up..." book list. I'm always a 
sucker for Books of Glittery Stuff. :-)

(Considering the publication date, I assume it's all black and white?)
-- 
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|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 21:51:44 -0800
Status: RO

I'm begging for more photo generosity from the list members.  I have the 
chance to help someone begin a new business concept.  She is hosting 
"Period" tea parties for little girls and I get to make the costumes the 
girls will be wearing to these little fetes.  She is expecting a 6-12 yr old 
age range and wants the costumes to be as adjustable fitwise as possible.

What I really need is just tons of pictures of Victorian to Edwardian 
children in settings/clothing that would have been appropriate for a tea 
party.  I need to visually submerge myself into the looks and styles so that 
when I go to look for patterns or fabrics I will be familiar enough to avoid 
any major faux pas.  Our first serious planning meeting is Wed. and I'd like 
to have come up with an outline to work from.  A couple of basic choices to 
elaborate on or whatever.

Please reply offline to distantdesigns@hotmail.com

Thanks in advance,


Jennifer Sena
Distant Designs
http://home.teleport.com/~cedric/distdesi

I wont hurt you, I just want to dress you up!!




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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com, Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help with French fashion circa 1510
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Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 01:13:51 -0500
Status: RO

On Monday 18 November 2002 12:02 am, Bella wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I've just had a query from my Baroness on an image in
> a colouring book called "Renaissance Fashions" by Tom
> Tierney. I haven't seen this book or heard of it, and
> I've told her that I'll be asking around on all the
> costuming lists I'm on, so I'm hoping someone can help
> me to help her.


>
> In it there's a picture of a French lady, circa 1510,
> whose gown she wants to document. She hasn't seen
> anything like this before, and would like to make sure
> of its authenticity before she goes ahead and buys
> fabric etc. Unfortunately she doesn't have a scanner
> right now, so I'm unable to provide an image...

[description cut here]


I'm having a hard time getting a mental picture of your Baroness's 
description, and I don't have a lot of expertise with very early 16th c 
French fashion,  However, if her source is a Tierney coloring book (he's done 
a whole series of these for Dover), I say "don't trust it." 

My experience with his work is that where he does use a source with which I'm 
familiar, he tends to misinterpret the costume in his redrawing.  For 
example, in his coloring book called "Medieval Fashions", he features a 
drawing of a lady from the "April" picture from the Tres Riches Heures.  His 
picture shows her wearing a sheer cape with a beaded edge, though it is clear 
from the original minature that she is simply wearing a very long beaded 
necklace.

I hope someone on the list will recognize the picture and either point you to 
the original Tierney is butchering or otherwise get you an authoritative 
answer for your Baroness.  Good luck!

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."
 --Flannery O'Connor

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Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 03:52:40 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO


This is an excerpt from Eirik's Saga, describing the spae-wife:
She came in the evening with the man who had been sent to meet her, then she 
was dressed like this, so that she had a blue mantle fastened with straps, and 
stones were set all in the flap above; on her neck she had glass beads, a black
lambskin hood on her head with white catskin inside; and she had a staff in her
hand with a knob on it; it was made with brass and stones were set above in the
knob; she had a belt of touch-wood, and on it was a large skin pouch, and there
she kept safe her talismans (taufr) which she needed to get knowledge. She had
on her feet shaggy calfskin shoes with long thongs and large knobs on the ends
of those. She had on her hands catskin gloves, and they were white inside and 
shaggy. 

Any idea what that "mantle" would look like?  I'm trying to figure out
what is meant by "fastened with straps" and "the flap above."  I just don't
know enough about this period to get a clear picture of what is meant.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Subject: [h-cost] Lovely Bolt of Antique Irish Linen on ebay
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Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 14:59:48 -0000
Status: RO

Hi all,

'Lovely Bolt of Antique Irish Linen'

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=921489054

This e-bay item may be of interest, auction finishes in another hour
and 40 minutes or so. I'd be interested myself but the shipping of the
bolt to the UK may be prohibitive:-(
If anyone wants to share the 11 yards or so I'd be very, very
interested:-)

best wishes

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Photographing Costumes
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In-Reply-To: <no.id> from "Margo Anderson" at Nov 16, 2002 01:53:28 PM
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Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 08:39:36 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

oh, thank you wayne.  I whimper and cry all the time at how many
beautiful costumes are just killed with bad photography.

Glad there's a resource for this now!


> 
> My husband, Wayne, has written an article on costume photography, covering
> everything from choosing digital or film cameras, lighting, modeling,
> postproduction work, and much more.  You can see it at
> www.margospatterns.com.  Enjoy!
> 
> Margo
> 
> "One Tough Costumer"
> 
> 
> See the Historic Costume Patterns website at margospatterns.com
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 12:36:03 -0600
Status: RO

I have added the next installment of 'To Dress A Queen'. 

http://members.tripod.com/seamstrix/


Karen

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In a message dated 11/17/2002 8:46:01 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
kendrav@attbi.com writes:


> Best of all, this book reprints many images (it might even be all of them, 
> I'm not positive) from the "Revolution in Fashion" and "Evolution of 
> Fashion" books, so if you ever wanted either of those, here's your chance.
>  
> 

The images on Amazon look like exactly the same photos.  What are the 
advantages to those of us who already have "Revolution in Fashion"?

Ann Wass
who just spent $100 on books, and is wondering about spending more. (One was 
"What Clothes Reveal"--wonderful!)

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 11/17/2002 8:46:01 PM Eastern Standard Time, kendrav@attbi.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Best of all, this book reprints many images (it might even be all of them, I'm not positive) from the "Revolution in Fashion" and "Evolution of Fashion" books, so if you ever wanted either of those, here's your chance.</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
 <BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
The images on Amazon look like exactly the same photos.&nbsp; What are the advantages to those of us who already have "Revolution in Fashion"?<BR>
<BR>
Ann Wass<BR>
who just spent $100 on books, and is wondering about spending more. (One was "What Clothes Reveal"--wonderful!)</FONT></HTML>

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HI Kendra,

Thanks so much for your post about this book I just ordered it right now at 
Amazon.
A few weeks back when I posted about the 1836 style dresses that I am working 
on, AlbertCat had suggested getting a hold of the Evolution of Fashion 
catalog from Kyoto.  I logged onto their site but was unable to find out if 
it was still available, I also E-mailed a request to them for it, but they 
haven't responded. 

The dresses are coming out fabulous!  (If I may so boast :)   
Once I realized that the armhole is similar to a dropped shoulder with a 
higher opening, and reoriented my thinking about the armhole being on the 
upper arm instead of the contemporary armscye location, I was set.
I am boning the bodices, since corsets won't be worn. (thanks for the 
suggestion AlbertCat. No corsets allowed is not a matter of discomfort, it's 
a budgetary issue.)

Take care
Angela



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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">HI Kendra,<BR>
<BR>
Thanks so much for your post about this book I just ordered it right now at Amazon.<BR>
A few weeks back when I posted about the 1836 style dresses that I am working on, AlbertCat had suggested getting a hold of the Evolution of Fashion catalog from Kyoto.&nbsp; I logged onto their site but was unable to find out if it was still available, I also E-mailed a request to them for it, but they haven't responded. <BR>
<BR>
The dresses are coming out fabulous!&nbsp; (If I may so boast :)&nbsp;&nbsp; <BR>
Once I realized that the armhole is similar to a dropped shoulder with a higher opening, and reoriented my thinking about the armhole being on the upper arm instead of the contemporary armscye location, I was set.<BR>
I am boning the bodices, since corsets won't be worn. (thanks for the suggestion AlbertCat. No corsets allowed is not a matter of discomfort, it's a budgetary issue.)<BR>
<BR>
Take care<BR>
Angela<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] How to make Charlemagne's crown, any ideas?
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Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 09:28:00 -0800
Status: RO

At 9:51 AM -0800 11/17/02, Chris Laning wrote:
>At 5:50 PM -0800 11/16/02, Wanda Pease wrote:
>>I have a book from an exhibition that must have
>>taken place sometime in the 30's which brought together all the surviving
>>crowns they could get their hands on, around 140 or so, and pictured them.
>>Most of the medieval ones that were not "grave crowns" were of hinged
>>plaques.
>
>Title, author, publisher?


If it isn't:

Biehn, Heinz.  1957.  Die Kronen Europas.  Limes Verlag, Wiesbaden.

then there are two such exhibition catalogs in existence.


>I may add it to my "if it ever turns up..." book list. I'm always a 
>sucker for Books of Glittery Stuff. :-)
>
>(Considering the publication date, I assume it's all black and white?)

That's my recollection.

Heather
-- 
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Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Arkeological finds in Denmark
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Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 21:04:45 +0100
Status: RO

Hi the list!

Yesterday i was watching a program in the television about arkeologic finds
in Copenhagen.
We have had a lot of digging in the old streets of Copenhagen because they
made a subway tube.
Some of the most interresting finds for this list was a
hairnet from 15th. century, miraculous in a fantastic condition.
And one gentlemans shoe 15th. century a so called "Kohmule" (Cow Mouth?)
I dont know what you call these shoes, but they are funny shaped like a cows
nose. And the peace the feet is resting on is very narrow. I wondered how
they walked with these shoes, big men with heavy clothes, and then these
funny shoes. They were not made for a worker, that is for sure. I should not
have worn those if i had had 3 glasses of wine!!!
Another remarkable find was a fine piece of silk. It had 125 threads in the
weft and 30 in the warp (or was it the other way round? for each square
centimeter!!!
I know the question about hairnet has ben up on this list several times, i
did not follow it, but maybe someone here gets surprised.
Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Kyoto Costume Institute book
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Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 21:44:57 +0100
Status: RO

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Yes this list is quite expensive to know!!
I also had to order, and i ordered  "What Clothes Reveal" two
Those are christmas presents for myself!

Bjarne

=20
Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: AnnBWass@aol.com=20
  To: h-costume@indra.com=20
  Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002 8:12 PM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Kyoto Costume Institute book


  In a message dated 11/17/2002 8:46:01 PM Eastern Standard Time, =
kendrav@attbi.com writes:



    Best of all, this book reprints many images (it might even be all of =
them, I'm not positive) from the "Revolution in Fashion" and "Evolution =
of Fashion" books, so if you ever wanted either of those, here's your =
chance.




  The images on Amazon look like exactly the same photos.  What are the =
advantages to those of us who already have "Revolution in Fashion"?

  Ann Wass
  who just spent $100 on books, and is wondering about spending more. =
(One was "What Clothes Reveal"--wonderful!)=20

------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C28F4B.BCB4CD40
Content-Type: text/html;
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2719.2200" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Yes this list is quite expensive to=20
know!!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I also had to order, and i ordered =
&nbsp;"What=20
Clothes Reveal" two</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Those are christmas presents for=20
myself!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Bjarne</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Leif og Bjarne Drews<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk">www.my-drewscostumes.dk</A></DIV>=

<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><A=20
href=3D"http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/">http://home0.inet.tele.dk/dr=
ewscph/</A></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3DAnnBWass@aol.com =
href=3D"mailto:AnnBWass@aol.com">AnnBWass@aol.com</A>=20
  </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dh-costume@indra.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, November 18, 2002 =
8:12=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [h-cost] New Kyoto =
Costume=20
  Institute book</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 =
face=3DArial size=3D2=20
  FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">In a message dated 11/17/2002 8:46:01 PM Eastern =
Standard=20
  Time, <A href=3D"mailto:kendrav@attbi.com">kendrav@attbi.com</A>=20
  writes:<BR><BR><BR>
  <BLOCKQUOTE=20
  style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px =
solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"=20
  TYPE=3D"CITE">Best of all, this book reprints many images (it might =
even be=20
    all of them, I'm not positive) from the "Revolution in Fashion" and=20
    "Evolution of Fashion" books, so if you ever wanted either of those, =
here's=20
    your chance.</FONT><FONT lang=3D0 style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: =
#ffffff" face=3DArial=20
    color=3D#000000 size=3D3 =
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE><BR></FONT><FONT=20
  lang=3D0 style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" face=3DArial =
color=3D#000000 size=3D2=20
  FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"><BR>The images on Amazon look like exactly the =
same=20
  photos.&nbsp; What are the advantages to those of us who already have=20
  "Revolution in Fashion"?<BR><BR>Ann Wass<BR>who just spent $100 on =
books, and=20
  is wondering about spending more. (One was "What Clothes=20
  Reveal"--wonderful!)</FONT> </FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 21:46:55 +0100
Status: RO

Oh My

This is indeed going to be a dress for a queen!
It looks lovely, thankyou for letteing us have a look.


Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <seamstrix@juno.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002 7:36 PM
Subject: [h-cost] The Saga Continues.....


> I have added the next installment of 'To Dress A Queen'. 
> 
> http://members.tripod.com/seamstrix/
> 
> 
> Karen
> 
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Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 15:04:06 -0600
Status: RO

Thank-you! Coming from a person as talented as yourself, I consider that
high praise indeed! 

Karen



On Mon, 18 Nov 2002 21:46:55 +0100 "Bjarne og Leif Drews"
<drewscph@post12.tele.dk> writes:
> Oh My
> 
> This is indeed going to be a dress for a queen!
> It looks lovely, thankyou for letteing us have a look.
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help with French fashion circa 1510
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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 06:16:14 -0800
Status: RO



Bella wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I've just had a query from my Baroness on an image in
> a colouring book called "Renaissance Fashions" by Tom
> Tierney. I haven't seen this book or heard of it, and
> I've told her that I'll be asking around on all the
> costuming lists I'm on, so I'm hoping someone can help
> me to help her.
>
> In it there's a picture of a French lady, circa 1510,
> whose gown she wants to document. She hasn't seen
> anything like this before, and would like to make sure
> of its authenticity before she goes ahead and buys
> fabric etc. Unfortunately she doesn't have a scanner
> right now, so I'm unable to provide an image...
>
> Here's her description:
>
> "The gown is split to the waist up the front and
> doesn't quite reach the ground at the front.  It is
> shaped where it hangs to a point and then goes back up
> again slightly to give it a hankercheif look, are you
> still with me because this is the bit that I'm having
> a hard time describing.  It isn't a straight split, it
> is from around knee level up and the pieces almost
> meet in the middle then it is shaped off to the end in
> a V shape like a hanky shape.  The gown is a plain
> fabric on top and a brocade lining. It has a train at
> the back.  She is wearing a petticoat to the floor
> that can be seen below the gown at the front and up to
> the waist through the slit, it isn't your cheap nasty
> petticoat as it is designed to be seen.  The bodice
> part of the gown is just straight across the top of
> the bust and is the same fabric as the bottom of the
> gown.  The sleeves are made from the brocade and are
> bell? shaped and hang to around mid fore arm, below
> that she has sleeves that are full and tied at the
> wrist.  She is wearing a square neck chemise and I
> have no idea on where to start with hat description.
> I'm guessing it would lace up at the back as I don't
> have a back view of it."
>
> Does anyone know what the style described is? Is it an
> authentic style? Could anyone point me to a picture
> from a painting or portrait?
>

Hmmm, it sounds like some of the turn of the 16th century allegorical
stuff
(the Lady and the Unicorn series of tapestries is a good example of this

and should be famous enough to find a few pics of). I don't suppose
there's
any context with that image? What you generally find in this era is that
the
allegorical stuff is the same shape, colours and materials (more or
less) as
the real stuff, but tends to have less of the fantastical details like
skirt splits,
funky sleeves or wierd headdresses.

Claire

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Subject: [h-cost] Current art exhibit spanning 12c - 20c
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Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 17:22:55 -0600
Status: RO

Hi All!

I know this is a late suggestion, but the art exhibit "Leonardo da Vinci and
the Splendor of Poland" is FANTASTIC - from an art as well as
costume/clothing point of view.  It remains in Milwaukee, WI through 24 Nov
then travels to Houston 8 Dec 2002 - 17 Feb 2003, or somewhere in CA after
that.  I've heard that the exhibit book is great, but have yet to get my
hands on it.  Regardless, the upcoming "Art of Late Renaissance Florence"
and the attendant textile exhibit, "Renaissance Velvets and Silks" sound
like wonderful follow-ups to the Milwaukee show.  I cannot recommend the
Milwaukee show enough. - It is beautiful.

-marie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Norweigian/Icelandic dress question
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Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 12:01:29 -0800
Status: RO

At 3:52 AM -0800 11/18/02, Lee Thompson-Herbert wrote:
>This is an excerpt from Eirik's Saga, describing the spae-wife:
>She came in the evening with the man who had been sent to meet her, then she
>was dressed like this, so that she had a blue mantle fastened with straps, and
>stones were set all in the flap above; on her neck she had glass 
>beads, a black
>lambskin hood on her head with white catskin inside; and she had a 
>staff in her
>hand with a knob on it; it was made with brass and stones were set 
>above in the
>knob; she had a belt of touch-wood, and on it was a large skin 
>pouch, and there
>she kept safe her talismans (taufr) which she needed to get knowledge. She had
>on her feet shaggy calfskin shoes with long thongs and large knobs on the ends
>of those. She had on her hands catskin gloves, and they were white inside and
>shaggy.
>
>Any idea what that "mantle" would look like?  I'm trying to figure out
>what is meant by "fastened with straps" and "the flap above."  I just don't
>know enough about this period to get a clear picture of what is meant.

Have you tried the "Viking Answer Lady" articles about clothing?  I'm 
reasonably certain that she covers interpreting clothing references 
in literature.  It would also probably help to discover what the 
original words are that are being translated here.  For example, in 
examining other passages from sagas, I often find that a word 
translated as a specific type of garment in English was originally a 
fairly generic term.  The one I'm recalling most clearly was 
translated "mantle" (among other things) where the original was much 
more along the lines of "over-garment".

Translators of literature aren't always (often?) specialists in 
costume, so elements of specific meaning may be either added or 
subtracted in the translation process.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 12:01:29 -0800
Status: RO

At 3:52 AM -0800 11/18/02, Lee Thompson-Herbert wrote:
>This is an excerpt from Eirik's Saga, describing the spae-wife:
>She came in the evening with the man who had been sent to meet her, then she
>was dressed like this, so that she had a blue mantle fastened with straps, and
>stones were set all in the flap above; on her neck she had glass 
>beads, a black
>lambskin hood on her head with white catskin inside; and she had a 
>staff in her
>hand with a knob on it; it was made with brass and stones were set 
>above in the
>knob; she had a belt of touch-wood, and on it was a large skin 
>pouch, and there
>she kept safe her talismans (taufr) which she needed to get knowledge. She had
>on her feet shaggy calfskin shoes with long thongs and large knobs on the ends
>of those. She had on her hands catskin gloves, and they were white inside and
>shaggy.
>
>Any idea what that "mantle" would look like?  I'm trying to figure out
>what is meant by "fastened with straps" and "the flap above."  I just don't
>know enough about this period to get a clear picture of what is meant.

Have you tried the "Viking Answer Lady" articles about clothing?  I'm 
reasonably certain that she covers interpreting clothing references 
in literature.  It would also probably help to discover what the 
original words are that are being translated here.  For example, in 
examining other passages from sagas, I often find that a word 
translated as a specific type of garment in English was originally a 
fairly generic term.  The one I'm recalling most clearly was 
translated "mantle" (among other things) where the original was much 
more along the lines of "over-garment".

Translators of literature aren't always (often?) specialists in 
costume, so elements of specific meaning may be either added or 
subtracted in the translation process.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Kyoto Costume Institute book
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Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 18:02:14 -0800
Status: RO


----- Original Message -----
From: AnnBWass@aol.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002 11:12 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Kyoto Costume Institute book

> The images on Amazon look like exactly the same photos.  What are the
advantages to those of us who already have "Revolution in Fashion"?

As I said before, the book is 768 pages, with 4 chapters, each about 1/4th
of the book:  18th century, 19th century, first half of the 20th century,
and second half of the 20th century.  Therefore, you get not only many of
the images from "Revolution" in the 18th and first part of the 19th
centuries, but also new ones.  Again, if you have "Evolution of Fashion"
many of those images are in the 19th century chapter, but there are also new
ones.  Finally, you get the two 20th century chapters.

- Kendra

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Kyoto Costume Institute book
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Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 21:52:44 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 11/18/02 2:14:09 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
AnnBWass@aol.com writes:

<<  What are the 
 advantages to those of us who already have "Revolution in Fashion"? >>

We can play paper dolls with one of the books????

Actually, I think the new book has clothes I've never seen before....as well 
as some from "Revolution". It must if it covers the 19th and 20th century.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Kyoto Costume Book/1836 dress update
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Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 21:53:31 EST
Status: RO

In a message dated 11/18/02 2:15:10 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
Everydayele@aol.com writes:

<< The dresses are coming out fabulous!  (If I may so boast :)    >>

Sorry....no boasting allowed without photos!
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Bella?= <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help with French fashion circa 1510
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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 15:50:38 +1100 (EST)
Status: RO

Hi all, just wish to say thank you from my Baroness
and myself to those who helped with her query - it was
much appreciated. :)


Bella 

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- Avoid getting hideous gifts this Christmas with Yahoo! Hint Dropper!
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Bella?= <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Saga Continues.....
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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 15:52:08 +1100 (EST)
Status: RO

 --- seamstrix@juno.com wrote: > I have added the next
installment of 'To Dress A
> Queen'. 
> 
> http://members.tripod.com/seamstrix/


ooh...it's looking gorgeous! :)


Bella 

http://www.yahoo.promo.com.au/hint/ - Yahoo! Hint Dropper
- Avoid getting hideous gifts this Christmas with Yahoo! Hint Dropper!
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] How to make Charlemagne's crown, any ideas?
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Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 22:41:28 -0800
Status: RO

That's it!  Teach me to read all the posts on a thread before answering one.
I had a captive German speaker when I first got the book.  He's still around
somewhere and can be persuaded to translate things like this (page at a
time) or the Manesse Liederhandschrift that I brought home from Germany.

Regina/Wanda

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Heather Rose Jones
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002 9:28 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] How to make Charlemagne's crown, any ideas?


At 9:51 AM -0800 11/17/02, Chris Laning wrote:
>At 5:50 PM -0800 11/16/02, Wanda Pease wrote:
>>I have a book from an exhibition that must have
>>taken place sometime in the 30's which brought together all the surviving
>>crowns they could get their hands on, around 140 or so, and pictured them.
>>Most of the medieval ones that were not "grave crowns" were of hinged
>>plaques.
>
>Title, author, publisher?


If it isn't:

Biehn, Heinz.  1957.  Die Kronen Europas.  Limes Verlag, Wiesbaden.

then there are two such exhibition catalogs in existence.


>I may add it to my "if it ever turns up..." book list. I'm always a
>sucker for Books of Glittery Stuff. :-)
>
>(Considering the publication date, I assume it's all black and white?)

That's my recollection.

Heather
--
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 23:21:54 +1100 (EST)
Status: RO

Hi all,

if anyone has the Medieval Woman calender with the
picture of the "Spanish tassel dress" in it, could you
please let me know, with details of artist, year,
museum? Better still if you could spare 10 minutes to
scan it and send it to me it would be much
appreciated.

Or, if anyone knows this style and can find it
elsewhere that would be cool too. :)


Bella

http://www.yahoo.promo.com.au/hint/ - Yahoo! Hint Dropper
- Avoid getting hideous gifts this Christmas with Yahoo! Hint Dropper!
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Nov 19 09:12:36 2002
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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 07:10:41 -0700
Status: RO

I've got a bunch of them, Bella.  Do you know what calendar (year) it
was in?
--sue

Bella wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> if anyone has the Medieval Woman calender with the
> picture of the "Spanish tassel dress" in it, could you
> please let me know, with details of artist, year,
> museum? Better still if you could spare 10 minutes to
> scan it and send it to me it would be much
> appreciated.
> 
> Or, if anyone knows this style and can find it
> elsewhere that would be cool too. :)
> 
> Bella
> 
> http://www.yahoo.promo.com.au/hint/ - Yahoo! Hint Dropper
> - Avoid getting hideous gifts this Christmas with Yahoo! Hint Dropper!
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Kimie SUZUKI" <kimie205@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Kyoto Costume Book/1836 dress update
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Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 02:24:09 +0900
Status: RO

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Hello Angela,

According to the web page of The National Museum of Modern Art, Kyoto(
http://www.momak.go.jp/menu_e.html )
this catalog is still available. But I am not sure that they can send it
outside Japan.

Kimie
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Everydayele@aol.com
  To: h-costume@net.indra.com
  Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2002 4:12 AM
  Subject: [h-cost] Re: Kyoto Costume Book/1836 dress update


  HI Kendra,

  Thanks so much for your post about this book I just ordered it right now
at Amazon.
  A few weeks back when I posted about the 1836 style dresses that I am
working on, AlbertCat had suggested getting a hold of the Evolution of
Fashion catalog from Kyoto.  I logged onto their site but was unable to find
out if it was still available, I also E-mailed a request to them for it, but
they haven't responded.

  The dresses are coming out fabulous!  (If I may so boast :)
  Once I realized that the armhole is similar to a dropped shoulder with a
higher opening, and reoriented my thinking about the armhole being on the
upper arm instead of the contemporary armscye location, I was set.
  I am boning the bodices, since corsets won't be worn. (thanks for the
suggestion AlbertCat. No corsets allowed is not a matter of discomfort, it's
a budgetary issue.)

  Take care
  Angela



------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C2903B.E8498E00
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dshift_jis">
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Hello Angela,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>According to the web page of The National Museum of =
Modern=20
Art, Kyoto( <A=20
href=3D"http://www.momak.go.jp/menu_e.html">http://www.momak.go.jp/menu_e=
.html</A>&nbsp;)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>this catalog is still available. But I am not sure =
that they=20
can send it outside Japan.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Kimie</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt =82l=82r =82o=83S=83V=83b=83N">----- Original =
Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt =82l=82r =
=82o=83S=83V=83b=83N; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3DEverydayele@aol.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:Everydayele@aol.com">Everydayele@aol.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt =82l=82r =82o=83S=83V=83b=83N"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dh-costume@net.indra.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:h-costume@net.indra.com">h-costume@net.indra.com</A> =
</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt =82l=82r =82o=83S=83V=83b=83N"><B>Sent:</B> =
Tuesday, November 19, 2002 4:12=20
  AM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt =82l=82r =
=82o=83S=83V=83b=83N"><B>Subject:</B> [h-cost] Re: Kyoto Costume=20
  Book/1836 dress update</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 =
face=3DArial size=3D2=20
  FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">HI Kendra,<BR><BR>Thanks so much for your post =
about this=20
  book I just ordered it right now at Amazon.<BR>A few weeks back when I =
posted=20
  about the 1836 style dresses that I am working on, AlbertCat had =
suggested=20
  getting a hold of the Evolution of Fashion catalog from Kyoto.&nbsp; I =
logged=20
  onto their site but was unable to find out if it was still available, =
I also=20
  E-mailed a request to them for it, but they haven't responded. =
<BR><BR>The=20
  dresses are coming out fabulous!&nbsp; (If I may so boast =
:)&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
  <BR>Once I realized that the armhole is similar to a dropped shoulder =
with a=20
  higher opening, and reoriented my thinking about the armhole being on =
the=20
  upper arm instead of the contemporary armscye location, I was =
set.<BR>I am=20
  boning the bodices, since corsets won't be worn. (thanks for the =
suggestion=20
  AlbertCat. No corsets allowed is not a matter of discomfort, it's a =
budgetary=20
  issue.)<BR><BR>Take=20
care<BR>Angela<BR><BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></FONT></BODY></HTML>

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From: "Signora Apollonia Margherita degli Albizzi" <apollonia@bellsouth.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Current art exhibit spanning 12c - 20c
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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 14:39:04 -0500
Status: RO

Ooooo!  Where can I get an exhibit book for all of them?

Apollonia, wishing she was in WI....

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of mls
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002 6:23 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Current art exhibit spanning 12c - 20c


Hi All!

I know this is a late suggestion, but the art exhibit "Leonardo da Vinci
and
the Splendor of Poland" is FANTASTIC - from an art as well as
costume/clothing point of view.  It remains in Milwaukee, WI through 24
Nov
then travels to Houston 8 Dec 2002 - 17 Feb 2003, or somewhere in CA
after
that.  I've heard that the exhibit book is great, but have yet to get my
hands on it.  Regardless, the upcoming "Art of Late Renaissance
Florence"
and the attendant textile exhibit, "Renaissance Velvets and Silks" sound
like wonderful follow-ups to the Milwaukee show.  I cannot recommend the
Milwaukee show enough. - It is beautiful.

-marie

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From: Leslie
 <calkum@usa.net>
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Subject: Re: [[h-cost] Current art exhibit spanning 12c - 20c]
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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 13:57:03 -0600
Status: RO

Is there any more info when/where this is going to take place in Houston?

TIA,
Leslie



"mls" <mschulte@mcw.edu> wrote:
> Hi All!
> 
> I know this is a late suggestion, but the art exhibit "Leonardo da Vinci
and
> the Splendor of Poland" is FANTASTIC - from an art as well as
> costume/clothing point of view.  It remains in Milwaukee, WI through 24 Nov
> then travels to Houston 8 Dec 2002 - 17 Feb 2003, or somewhere in CA after
> that.  I've heard that the exhibit book is great, but have yet to get my
> hands on it.  Regardless, the upcoming "Art of Late Renaissance Florence"
> and the attendant textile exhibit, "Renaissance Velvets and Silks" sound
> like wonderful follow-ups to the Milwaukee show.  I cannot recommend the
> Milwaukee show enough. - It is beautiful.
> 
> -marie
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



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From: "Freyalyn Close-Hainsworth" <lynn@close-hainsworth.fslife.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Norwegian/Icelandic dress question
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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 20:28:27 -0000
Status: RO

 >on her neck she had glass
> beads, a black
> lambskin hood on her head with white catskin inside; and she had
> a staff in her
> hand with a knob on it;
>

I'm sure there are people on this list who know more, but there's lots of
baggage attached to wearing catskin in the Sagas and other Nordic myth - and
we don't know the half of it.  It was all tied in with witchcraft (and NOT
in a good sense) and the otherworld.  Nice people didn't wear catskin.

Freyalyn


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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 17:10:08 -0500
Status: RO

Freyalyn Close-Hainsworth wrote:
 > I'm sure there are people on this list who know more, but 
there's lots of
 > baggage attached to wearing catskin in the Sagas and 
other Nordic myth - and
 > we don't know the half of it.  It was all tied in with 
witchcraft (and NOT
 > in a good sense) and the otherworld.  Nice people didn't 
wear catskin.

	It's true that this whole section is about a volva who went
around the farms in Greenland prophesying about the future,
and her garb is likely very ceremonial in various ways.
After all, cat parts would likely involve a link with
Freyja. Definately otherworld - but there is "witchcraft"
and "witchcraft", not all was considered evil. However, I'm
not sure that the commnet about nice people not wearing
catskin is entirely accurate as there is planty of evidence
of cat fur being sold along with the fox and squirrel furs.
so someone is buying enough of it that archeological
evidence does exist. Mind you, it wouldn't be MY first choice...

	-Judy Mitchell


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Nov 19 17:42:54 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Current art exhibit spanning 12c - 20c
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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 16:42:54 -0600
Status: RO

The web site for the Milwaukee Art Museum is: www.mam.org

The Houston museum web site is: www.mfah.org  That site will tell you more.

I'm sure you could contact them about purchasing the catalogue.  If you go
to the web site, you ***MUST*** check out the "photo gallery" under "More on
MAM".  This section has photos of the new addition by S. Calatrava.  It is
quite beautiful, especially as it juts out over the lake - exactly like a
bird in flight.  Or, when driving East on the main drag through downtown the
support for the pedestrian bridge looks like the bowsprit of a sailing
vessel.

-sorry more info than you needed, but this addition has really excited and
revitalized MKE.

-marie
----- Original Message -----
From: Signora Apollonia Margherita degli Albizzi <apollonia@bellsouth.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, 19 November, 2002 1:39 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Current art exhibit spanning 12c - 20c


> Ooooo!  Where can I get an exhibit book for all of them?
>
> Apollonia, wishing she was in WI....
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of mls
> Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002 6:23 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Current art exhibit spanning 12c - 20c
>
>
> Hi All!
>
> I know this is a late suggestion, but the art exhibit "Leonardo da Vinci
> and
> the Splendor of Poland" is FANTASTIC - from an art as well as
> costume/clothing point of view.  It remains in Milwaukee, WI through 24
> Nov
> then travels to Houston 8 Dec 2002 - 17 Feb 2003, or somewhere in CA
> after
> that.  I've heard that the exhibit book is great, but have yet to get my
> hands on it.  Regardless, the upcoming "Art of Late Renaissance
> Florence"
> and the attendant textile exhibit, "Renaissance Velvets and Silks" sound
> like wonderful follow-ups to the Milwaukee show.  I cannot recommend the
> Milwaukee show enough. - It is beautiful.
>
> -marie
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Bella?= <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another appeal
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Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 11:01:21 +1100 (EST)
Status: RO

 --- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote: > I've
got a bunch of them, Bella.  Do you know what
> calendar (year) it
> was in?


Thanks sue, no I don't - I only know that it was in
the last couple of years or so, not including this
year.


Bella

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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 19:39:44 -0500
Status: RO

Thank You Wayne!!  You have given us laypeople a wonderful guide for those of us who want to do our own photography.  It is very clear and understandable.  Thank you again!

Donna Scarfe
Fyne Hats By Felicity
Period Headgear for Past Ages
www.fynehatsbyfelicity.com
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Photographing costumes
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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 17:26:42 -0800
Status: RO


>Thank You Wayne!!  You have given us laypeople a wonderful guide for those 
>of us who want to do our own photography.  It is very clear and 
>understandable.  Thank you again!

And I found it over-detailed and thick reading.  But even I realized all 
the technique was contained therein.  I'll have to re-read it a few more 
times to make complete sense of it.  But I agree with the 'thank you, 
Wayne' part.


Kayta

    //// \\\
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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 21:08:48 -0500
Status: RO



My plumber (really) told me that he wants to make a Three Musketeer-style
outfit for himself but that he doesn't know how to make the tabard. I told
him that I thought he could buy a pattern for this. Does anyone know of one?
You can reply privately if you'd rather not clutter the list --

Gail Finke


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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Nov 19 21:33:04 2002
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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 19:33:07 -0700
Status: RO

I'd look in the costume sections of the Simplicity/McCalls/etc.
catalogues, first-off.  I betcha one of them has something like that!
--sue

Gail & Scott Finke wrote:
> 
> My plumber (really) told me that he wants to make a Three Musketeer-style
> outfit for himself but that he doesn't know how to make the tabard. I told
> him that I thought he could buy a pattern for this. Does anyone know of one?
> You can reply privately if you'd rather not clutter the list --
> 
> Gail Finke
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] musketeer pattern
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Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 13:49:59 +1100 (EST)
Status: RO

 --- Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net> wrote: > 
> 
> My plumber (really) told me that he wants to make a
> Three Musketeer-style
> outfit for himself but that he doesn't know how to
> make the tabard. I told
> him that I thought he could buy a pattern for this.
> Does anyone know of one?


Yep. :)

<http://www.wingeo.com/patterns/100series/patrn112.jpg>

from this page:

<http://www.wingeo.com/100Series.htm>


Bella 

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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 19:48:48 -0800
Status: RO

WOuld this be of use to your plumber?

http://members.aol.com/randwhit/patterns.htm#mandelion

Good luck,

Theresa Eacker

Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

> 
> My plumber (really) told me that he wants to make a Three Musketeer-style
> outfit for himself but that he doesn't know how to make the tabard. I told
> him that I thought he could buy a pattern for this. Does anyone know of one?
> You can reply privately if you'd rather not clutter the list --
> 
> Gail Finke
> 
> 
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Tue Nov 19 23:11:44 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] exhibit book in Feb and linen at wholesale
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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 20:11:54 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Bjarne,
    Yes I would be interested in the exhibition
catalog with patterns when it comes out.  Please post
when you have particulars and I'll start saving my
pennies, singles, fives, etc. 
    Wholesaling linen plus shipping would be lovely
too for whoever was mentioning that.  I was just at
Baer fabric in Louisville and good linen at less than
22-25.00 per yard sounds like a good deal.
    Now I've probably forgotten something but I
haven't caught up on all the posts yet as I just got
back from my Mama's house in Kentucky.
    Obligatory costume content.....When people talk
about 3.5 oz linen or 2.5 oz linen, what do they mean?
                               Cassandra

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: New Kyoto Costume Institute book
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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 20:54:22 -0800
Status: RO

Just to add a little more fuel to our shopping frenzy - I checked at
Powells.com and they have the new Kyoto book for $35 - free US shipping on
orders over $50 and no tax.

Agnes

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Exebition 16th-17th century clothing Munchen(Germany)
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
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Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 12:06:41 +0100
Status: RO

Well, I am now the proud owner of the Catalog - and it is wonderful!!!  I
also signed up for the course this weekend to make the men's Lederkoller -
but they called me yesterday and told me it was canceled because only 4
people (including me) had signed up for it - I was quite miffed :((( but
they have moved my reservation to the January class.

BTW this catalog also includes several patterns in the back (hand-drawn
patterns by Johannes Pietsch, a textile restaurer from around here, ie
Munich). I have scanned them in for your viewing pleasure :)

http://homepage.mac.com/cassandragreer/PhotoAlbum4.html

Please note (for SCA people especially), the Suedtirol men's jacket from
1610 looks exactly like the jacket worn in Der Schneider from 1560-1570.

The rest of the catalog is full of really yummy things like scans of
different brocades, gloves, lace, tapestries, a knitted jacket, a bunch of
Leinenquasten (linen tassles - very ornate), lace collar frames, bags, and
other various clothing articles and accessories. I would scan them all in
but some how I think the Museum  wouldn't like it that much...

Cass :)


> Deredere & Owen Iskander wrote:
> 
>> It is in German, but someone translated some of it.
>> 
>> "Textile Treasures from Renaissance and Baroque"
>> at the 'Bayerisches Nationalmuseum' until February 16th, 2003, from
>> Tuesdays to Sundays 10 - 17, Thursdays 10 - 20. Mondays closed
> 
>> There is also a wounderfull publication for the exhibiton. The fotos are
>> well done, you can see the colors and details better than in the dark
>> exhibition room! It costs EUR 25,00.
>> (I'll try to get more information aboud this book)
> 
> 
> 
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From h-costume-admin@indra.com  Wed Nov 20 09:33:06 2002
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Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 09:32:32 -0500 (EST)
Status: RO

The maker of this doublet just posted this to the 18th c. women's list.  I
thought I'd repost it here, in case someone is interested:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=982948729

Note: I don't know the seller personally, and I'm NOT vouching for its
authenticity or anything!  (I mean, hey, it's corduroy...)  But there are
probably worse things out there :)

-- Mara


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Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 12:34:53 -0500
Status: RO

        Too bad she couldn't get someone to model it.  It had to be a lot
of work for such a low starting bid.  

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Subject: [h-cost] On C-14 dating of Greenland gowns
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Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 07:22:15 -0500
Status: RO

For those who may be interested, there is an excellent article C14
dating of the Greenland gowns
available by going to the Europhysics News website, clicking on 'Past
Issues', and then looking for Vol. 33, No. 3, (2002).
http://www.europhysicsnews.com

Linda





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From: "Mary Temple" <noxcat@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Exebition 16th-17th century clothing Munchen(Germany)
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Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 21:40:57 +0000
Status: RO

Maybe I missed it, but how could I get my hands on a copy of this catalog?

Mary/Katerine
(who is once again buying books for the pictures!)

>Well, I am now the proud owner of the Catalog - and it is wonderful!!!  I
>also signed up for the course this weekend to make the men's Lederkoller -
>but they called me yesterday and told me it was canceled because only 4
>people (including me) had signed up for it - I was quite miffed :((( but
>they have moved my reservation to the January class.
>
>BTW this catalog also includes several patterns in the back (hand-drawn
>patterns by Johannes Pietsch, a textile restaurer from around here, ie
>Munich). I have scanned them in for your viewing pleasure :)
>
>http://homepage.mac.com/cassandragreer/PhotoAlbum4.html
>
>Please note (for SCA people especially), the Suedtirol men's jacket from
>1610 looks exactly like the jacket worn in Der Schneider from 1560-1570.
>
>The rest of the catalog is full of really yummy things like scans of
>different brocades, gloves, lace, tapestries, a knitted jacket, a bunch of
>Leinenquasten (linen tassles - very ornate), lace collar frames, bags, and
>other various clothing articles and accessories. I would scan them all in
>but some how I think the Museum  wouldn't like it that much...
>
>Cass :)
>
>
> > Deredere & Owen Iskander wrote:
> >
> >> It is in German, but someone translated some of it.
> >>
> >> "Textile Treasures from Renaissance and Baroque"
> >> at the 'Bayerisches Nationalmuseum' until February 16th, 2003, from
> >> Tuesdays to Sundays 10 - 17, Thursdays 10 - 20. Mondays closed
> >
> >> There is also a wounderfull publication for the exhibiton. The fotos 
>are
> >> well done, you can see the colors and details better than in the dark
> >> exhibition room! It costs EUR 25,00.
> >> (I'll try to get more information aboud this book)
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>_______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 15:13:45 -0800
Status: RO


>         Too bad she couldn't get someone to model it.  It had to be a lot
>of work for such a low starting bid.

Yeah.  It looks pretty good flat, but it would look better round.  too bad 
it's corduroy - nobody at my local Faire gets to wear corduroy.


Kayta

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Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 17:04:58 -0800 (PST)
Status: RO

Bella,
   I know you're looking for a scan out of the
Medieval Women calendar.   Could you share when you
find a copy?  You've really piqued my curiousity with
the phrase tassel dress.
                       Cassandra (who's children buy
her tassels for every gift giving occasion)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] what's a Spanish tassel dress?
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Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 12:35:51 +1100 (EST)
Status: RO

 --- Cascio Michael <rosenau5@yahoo.com> wrote: >
Bella,
>    I know you're looking for a scan out of the
> Medieval Women calendar.   Could you share when you
> find a copy?  You've really piqued my curiousity
> with
> the phrase tassel dress.


Sure. Actually, a friend on another list scanned the
image and enlarged the figure, then uploaded it to her
site....

<http://www.pbase.com/image/7583361>


Bella


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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 07:31:16 -0500
Status: RO

I just couldn't help myself, I have to bubble somewhere!

*poing*  *poing*  *poing*

A german friend of mine convinced his mother to do me a lace 
piece for Christmas...he says she calls it some sort of collar 
and it is 16th or 17th century pattern.

Not certain what I am getting, but I will probably need to have 
help identifying it's time period and what clothing it goes with 
- so I can try to make an outfit to go with it ;-)

margali
[who sent Bjarne's URL to him to show her ;-) ]


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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 10:59:36 -0500
Status: RO

Janet asked:
> Usually, I don't do anything later than Tudor, but I found a really nice
> "camp" (cotton) Elizabethan dress being sold as used garb at a reasonable
> price.  Now that the alterations are mostly done and I contemplate wearing
> it next weekend, I realize I have no idea of what kind of shoes would be
> appropriate.  I'm not going to custom-made shoes for 1 dress - does anyone
> have any thoughts on available modern shoes that would look okay?

I'd just wear whatever you wear for Tudor.  It's not likely you'd find a
close match for Elizabethan shoes at Payless or anywhere like that.  If
you don't have anything at all, I'd suggest cheap black mary-janes
(those shoes with the bar across your foot, that fastens with a buckle).
More accurate for Flemish or earlier Tudor than for Elizabethan per se,
but if you're talking about the SCA (and I realise you might not be)
then they'll probably suffice.

K.
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 07:21:49 -0500
Status: RO

oops, mtraber25@earthlink.NET not com....still getting used to it;-(

shavaylah wrote:

> Please add another copy for shavaylah@charter.net 
> <mailto:shavaylah@charter.net>
> 
> 
> 
>     Linda J. Thompson wrote:
> 
>      > Cassandra,
>      > When I took my pattern drafting classes at the rep years ago, I
>     got a
>      > handout that showed  a method of upsizing a standard pattern
>     using the
>      > industry calculation method for it. If you would like I will scan it
>      > and send it to you as an attachment to your private email.  If I
>      > remember it is about 2 or three pages.  Was not extremely
>     complicated,
>      > and is more accurate than the split and spread method.
>      >
>      > If any on else wants a copy, send me email and I will get a list
>      > together and send them all at once.
> 
> 



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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Queen Mary gown
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Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 23:13:46 -0500
Status: RO

Cathy wrote:
> On Sunday 17 November 2002 11:34 am, Saragrace Knauf wrote:
> 
>> I'd agree with Margo that it is more likely a partlet.  I am interested
>> also in anyone's thoughts on the construction of the collar/ruff.  Is
>> that a jeweled "choker" or is it elaborate embroidery on the gown
>> (chemise?).  Not the partlet collar.
> 
> I think it's both--elaborate blackwork on the (high) collar of the chemise, 
> with a red and gold carcanet worn over the collar.

I'm going to claim some knowledge, not because I have any particular
expertise, but because it's my website that has this picture, and I've
thought about it a bit previously :)

If you go up a directory level to
http://infotrope.net/sca/textiles/costume/pemberton/ you'll see that I
am using the portrait of Mary as corroborating evidence for how to do
Mrs Pemberton's outfit, which we see less of in the picture. 
If we put the Pemberton and the Mary together, I think we can reasonably
safely say that it is in fact a partlet, probably black velvet lined
with white and stiffened so it stands up, with a white shirt underneath.
There are a bunch of pictures from around the same period at, um,
*checks bookmarks*, http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/ which should
provide you with more hints.

K.



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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 11:55:55 EST
Status: RO


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I'm in need of a pattern for or a ready-made Cassock for a Catholic Father.  
Anyone have any suggestions?

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I'm in need of a pattern for or a ready-made Cassock for a Catholic Father.&nbsp; Anyone have any suggestions?</FONT></HTML>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Kyoto Costume Institute book
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Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 13:41:20 -0600
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Yes I just ordered mine off B&N.com.  It is called Evolution in Fashion =
there and is $32.00. Order it this week if you have a B&N membership =
card and you get an extra 5% off so standard shipping is almost free.

Got a copy of the Dec ELLE mag yesterday.  In their Calendar page get a =
gander of the late 1880's early 1890's gown pictured. It is part of the =
Femme Fatale exhibition opening at the Fashion Institute of Technology =
in NYC Dec 15th.  Late 19th c fashion mavens take note and let the rest =
of us know if an exhibition catalog is available!
Cindy Abel
ILL Coordinator
Health Sciences Library
Creighton University
1912 CALIFORNIA ST
OMAHA NE 68178-0210
VOICE: 402.280.5144
FAX: 402.280.5134
brujne@creighton.edu
1912 CALIFORNIA ST
OMAHA NE 68178-0210
VOICE:402-280-5144
FAX:   402-280-5134
brujne@creighton.edu
Omaha NE 68178-0210
Phone: 402. 280-5144
Fax:     402.280-5134
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Kendra Van Cleave=20
  To: h-costume@indra.com=20
  Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2002 7:42 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] New Kyoto Costume Institute book


  Oh my god, it's the motherlode!

  There's a new book out called "Fashion:  A History from the 18th to =
the 20th Century" that features the collection of the Kyoto Costume =
Institute. =20

  This book is ABSOLUTELY AMAZING!  It's 768 pages (I swear, it's a =
phone book!) and practically every page is a gorgeous, glossy, full =
color photo of a costume from the KCI's amazing costume collection.  =
There's 4 chapters on the 18th, 19th, first half of the 20th, and second =
half of the 20th centuries, and they each take up roughly 1/4 of the =
book.

  Best of all, this book reprints many images (it might even be all of =
them, I'm not positive) from the "Revolution in Fashion" and "Evolution =
of Fashion" books, so if you ever wanted either of those, here's your =
chance.

  Even better?  It's only $40.

  =
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/3822812064//qid=3D103758328=
0/sr=3D1-1/ref=3Dsr_1_1/104-4464235-5172711?v=3Dglance&s=3Dbooks&vi=3Dpic=
tures
  Click on "See More Pictures" (under the book cover photo) for scans =
from the book.

  - Kendra

------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C28F08.2D713760
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1106" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Yes I just ordered mine off B&amp;N.com.&nbsp; It is =
called=20
Evolution in Fashion there and is $32.00. Order it this week if you have =
a=20
B&amp;N membership card and you get an extra 5% off so standard shipping =
is=20
almost free.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Got a copy of the Dec ELLE mag yesterday.&nbsp; In =
their=20
Calendar page get a gander of the late 1880's early 1890's gown =
pictured. It is=20
part of the Femme Fatale exhibition opening at the Fashion Institute of=20
Technology in NYC Dec 15th.&nbsp; Late 19th c fashion mavens take note =
and let=20
the rest of us know if an exhibition catalog is available!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>Cindy Abel<BR>ILL Coordinator<BR>Health Sciences =
Library<BR>Creighton=20
University<BR>1912 CALIFORNIA ST<BR>OMAHA NE 68178-0210<BR>VOICE:=20
402.280.5144<BR>FAX: 402.280.5134<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:brujne@creighton.edu">brujne@creighton.edu</A><BR>1912 =
CALIFORNIA=20
ST<BR>OMAHA NE 68178-0210<BR>VOICE:402-280-5144<BR>FAX:&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
402-280-5134<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:brujne@creighton.edu">brujne@creighton.edu</A><BR>Omaha =
NE=20
68178-0210<BR>Phone: 402. 280-5144<BR>Fax:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
402.280-5134</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Dkendrav@attbi.com href=3D"mailto:kendrav@attbi.com">Kendra =
Van=20
  Cleave</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dh-costume@indra.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, November 17, 2002 =
7:42=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [h-cost] New Kyoto =
Costume=20
  Institute book</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Oh my god, it's the =
motherlode!</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>There's a new book out called =
"Fashion:&nbsp; A=20
  History from the 18th to the 20th Century" that features the =
collection of the=20
  Kyoto Costume Institute.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>This book is ABSOLUTELY =
AMAZING!&nbsp; It's 768=20
  pages (I swear, it's a phone book!) and practically every page is a =
gorgeous,=20
  glossy, full color photo of a costume from the KCI's amazing costume=20
  collection.&nbsp; </FONT><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>There's 4 =
chapters on the=20
  18th, 19th, first half of the 20th, and second half of the 20th =
centuries, and=20
  they each take up roughly 1/4 of the book.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Best of all, this book reprints many =
images (it=20
  might even be all of them, I'm not positive) from the "Revolution in =
Fashion"=20
  and "Evolution of Fashion" books, so if you ever wanted either of =
those,=20
  here's your chance.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Even better?&nbsp; It's only =
$40.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/3822812064//qid=3D1=
037583280/sr=3D1-1/ref=3Dsr_1_1/104-4464235-5172711?v=3Dglance&amp;s=3Dbo=
oks&amp;vi=3Dpictures">http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/3822=
812064//qid=3D1037583280/sr=3D1-1/ref=3Dsr_1_1/104-4464235-5172711?v=3Dgl=
ance&amp;s=3Dbooks&amp;vi=3Dpictures</A></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Click on "See More Pictures" (under =
the book=20
  cover photo) for scans from the book.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>- Kendra</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 12:57:07 -0600
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I ordered mine from bn.com.  Their price is $32.00 with an extra 10% =
off(through Nov 24) for those with a B&N membership card.  Standard =
shipping is $3.99(no extra as with Amazon for a heavier book). The title =
on the B&N book is Evolution of Fashion but the number of pages and the =
ISBN # is the same as the Amazon book entitled "Fashion". Well, I'll =
know if I got the correct book when it arrives.

I got "Revolution in Fashion" years ago and saw the original "Evolution =
in Fashion" but it will be great to have three centuries of costume in =
one volume.
Cindy Abel
ILL Coordinator
Health Sciences Library
Creighton University
1912 CALIFORNIA ST
OMAHA NE 68178-0210
VOICE: 402.280.5144
FAX: 402.280.5134
brujne@creighton.edu
 
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charset=3Diso-8859-1">
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<STYLE></STYLE>
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I ordered mine from bn.com.&nbsp; Their price is =
$32.00 with=20
an extra 10% off(through Nov 24) for those with a B&amp;N membership =
card.&nbsp;=20
Standard shipping is $3.99(no extra as with Amazon for a heavier book). =
The=20
title on the B&amp;N book is Evolution of Fashion but the number of =
pages and=20
the ISBN # is the same as the Amazon book entitled "Fashion". Well, I'll =
know if=20
I got the correct book when it arrives.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I got "Revolution in Fashion" years ago and saw the =
original=20
"Evolution in Fashion" but it will be great to have three centuries of =
costume=20
in one volume.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>Cindy Abel<BR>ILL Coordinator<BR>Health Sciences =
Library<BR>Creighton=20
University<BR>1912 CALIFORNIA ST<BR>OMAHA NE 68178-0210<BR>VOICE:=20
402.280.5144<BR>FAX: 402.280.5134<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:brujne@creighton.edu">brujne@creighton.edu</A><BR>&nbsp;</=
DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Bella?= <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] what's a Spanish tassel dress?
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 12:35:22 +1100 (EST)
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 --- Cascio Michael <rosenau5@yahoo.com> wrote: >
Bella,
>    I know you're looking for a scan out of the
> Medieval Women calendar.   Could you share when you
> find a copy?  You've really piqued my curiousity
> with
> the phrase tassel dress.


Sure. Actually, a friend on another list scanned the
image and enlarged the figure, then uploaded it to her
site....

<http://www.pbase.com/image/7583361>


Bella


http://www.yahoo.promo.com.au/hint/ - Yahoo! Hint Dropper
- Avoid getting hideous gifts this Christmas with Yahoo! Hint Dropper!
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