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Date: Tue, 1 Mar 2005 13:39:54 +1100 (EST)
From: Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Italian showcase costume/costumer for March
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Greetings all,

it is time for me to announce the March Italian Showcase costumer. This
month I am pleased to bring to you the work of Cynthia Isabella
Kalina, in a beautiful Venetian gown circa 1570s.

<http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/yourgarb/showcase.htm>

Enjoy!


SCA: Donna Bella Lucia da Verona
Innilgard, Lochac
LiveJournal: realm_of_venus


Find local movie times and trailers on Yahoo! Movies.
http://au.movies.yahoo.com
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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oooooh, another fabric store online....
Date: Tue, 1 Mar 2005 08:08:28 -0600
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Check each one, though--I looked at their silks, and some of them were ~70% 
rayon/30% silk. Plenty were 100%, though, so yeah, some decent prices.

-E House 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Mar  1 10:23:35 2005
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Subject: [h-cost] Need a source for this kind of dupioni
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Hi guys, I need a source for some black and silver striped dupioni which 
looks very much like this:

http://tinyurl.com/5m3fx

I have tried to contact this supplier to no avail.

Anyone seen anything like it?

Thanks,

Sg
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Mar  1 11:09:06 2005
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What did everyone think of the fashions on the Academy Awards?  I seem 
to be alone in liking Hilary Swank's dress.  She certainly has the body 
for it.

Sylrog

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars
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In a message dated 3/1/2005 11:09:48 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sylvia@ntw.net writes:

What did  everyone think of the fashions on the Academy  Awards? 


I thought Cate Blanchett's dress was elegant, but didn't think the pale  
yellow color was particularly flattering--too monochromatic.  And I heard a  radio 
reporter describe it as "strapless"--it was one shoulder.
 
I always look forward to the supermarket tabloid "Star" issue that shows  
many of the dresses, although I don't necessarily agree with their assessment of  
what was a winner and what was a loser.
 
Ann Wass
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars
Date: Tue, 1 Mar 2005 10:07:57 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I didnt think the color was flattering either and I didn't like the 
purple or brown, whatever it was, belt.

On Mar 1, 2005, at 9:42 AM, AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

>
> In a message dated 3/1/2005 11:09:48 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> sylvia@ntw.net writes:
>
> What did  everyone think of the fashions on the Academy  Awards?
>
>
> I thought Cate Blanchett's dress was elegant, but didn't think the pale
> yellow color was particularly flattering--too monochromatic.  And I 
> heard a  radio
> reporter describe it as "strapless"--it was one shoulder.
>
> I always look forward to the supermarket tabloid "Star" issue that 
> shows
> many of the dresses, although I don't necessarily agree with their 
> assessment of
> what was a winner and what was a loser.
>
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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I had no interest in the Oscars this year. What a slate of movies! Who could
really care? 

I watched for about half an hour in the middle, but not even the gowns could
hold my interest. During the half hour I watched, I saw Beyonce in that long
black dress. All right, I suppose, except for all the tin cans she was
wearing as jewelry :-) So I will look for one of the tabloids to cover the
dresses and take a peek then.

Gail Finke

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Oscars
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 I kind of like it, but it is really going to look dated in a few years.
Melanie Griffith really got attacked for a dress with a equally low, but
different back--but I think there might have been sheer fabric in back(or
was that skin wrinkling up with the weight she's put on while dealing with a
broken foot?).

Cindy Abel

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Subject: [h-cost] 18th century small print fabric
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 Here is a question that's a bit off-topic. I have 2 16" vinyl dolls
designed by Helen Kish, that I would love to redress in various historic
costumes. I have a pretty accurate pattern of two 18th century gowns
designed for Sasha dolls that I will alter to fit these dolls and use my
copy of Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion" to make more accurate. However
I'm looking for modern reproductions in a small scale of 18th century
fabrics and I'm not enough of an artist to make my own. I live in Omaha, NE
and even the speciality quilt shop here doesn't carry such stuff. I've shown
the staff pics of "real 18th c fabrics" I want a reproduction of and they
drool over them too, but no luck. I'd love to find something along the lines
of the printed fabric used for the robe de la francaise in Arnold in cherry
shades with the "buttoned" stomacher. Does anyone know of anyone out there
that carries such reproduction fabric in cotton or silk? Fabric with a small
interwoven pattern, like a floral stripe or brocade in an 18th c pattern
would also be great.

Many thanks

Cindy Abel
brujne@creighton.edu

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 I kind of like it, but it is really going to look dated in a few years.
Melanie Griffith really got attacked for a dress with a equally low, but
different back--but I think there might have been sheer fabric in back(or
was that skin wrinkling up with the weight she's put on while dealing with a
broken foot?).

Cindy Abel

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century small print fabric
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At 11:03 01/03/2005 -0600, you wrote:
>
>
>  Here is a question that's a bit off-topic. I have 2 16" vinyl dolls
>designed by Helen Kish, that I would love to redress in various historic
>costumes. I have a pretty accurate pattern of two 18th century gowns
>designed for Sasha dolls that I will alter to fit these dolls and use my
>copy of Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion" to make more accurate. However
>I'm looking for modern reproductions in a small scale of 18th century
>fabrics and I'm not enough of an artist to make my own. I live in Omaha, NE
>and even the speciality quilt shop here doesn't carry such stuff. I've shown
>the staff pics of "real 18th c fabrics" I want a reproduction of and they
>drool over them too, but no luck. I'd love to find something along the lines
>of the printed fabric used for the robe de la francaise in Arnold in cherry
>shades with the "buttoned" stomacher. Does anyone know of anyone out there
>that carries such reproduction fabric in cotton or silk? Fabric with a small
>interwoven pattern, like a floral stripe or brocade in an 18th c pattern
>would also be great.


Nothing as fancy as the cherry stripe, but some pretty small prints 
nevertheless. And a really helpful lady.

http://www.littletrimmings.com/FabricsMenu.asp

Suzi


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In a message dated 3/1/2005 12:03:39 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sylvia@ntw.net writes:

And I  
> heard a  radio
> reporter describe it as "strapless"--it  was one shoulder.



On AOL....via Entertainment Weekly...they decried Johnny Depp's spats. No  
spats in sight...nada, nicht, none.
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I thought Hillary Swank's dress was amazing and fabulous. It was far more subtle than just having it cut down to 'there' in front. I loved the sapphire blue color and I loved the daring plunge it took in the back in contrast to the rather more demure front. It was perfectly designed to show off her body. 

I thought that Helen Mirren had a lovely dress as well, although you didn't get to see as much of it since she didn't win. I lked Imelda Staunton's emerald green number with the tea length front and train in back, unusual and, on her, very flattering. 

Karen
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In a message dated 3/1/2005 11:09:23 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sylvia@ntw.net writes:

I seem  
to be alone in liking Hilary Swank's dress. 


Stupid me! I was thinking of Renee Zellweger's red dress...
 
 
not Swanks trashy gimmicky get up. YUK! Ugly from the front; trashy in the  
back.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars
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Melanie Griffiths dress had nude coloured fabric in the back, the match to
her skin tone was very good. I'm looking for more pictures of it to get a
better look, elements of this dress would suit a ball gown or Middle Eastern
dance gown.

Sheridan

http://www.ctv.ca/mini_v2/oscars2005/static/galleries/red_carpet/index.html

To see the picture, click on the last star on the right, in the 4th row. If
you right click the picture it should give you a zoom option. You can see
the fabric puckering along the seam near the beads.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Cindy Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2005 12:07 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Oscars


>
>
>  I kind of like it, but it is really going to look dated in a few years.
> Melanie Griffith really got attacked for a dress with a equally low, but
> different back--but I think there might have been sheer fabric in back(or
> was that skin wrinkling up with the weight she's put on while dealing with
a
> broken foot?).
>
> Cindy Abel
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century small print fabric
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Hi Cindy,
 
Try here: www.reproductionfabrics.com or you can also try www.ghostforge.com.  Really nice folk but a bit slow on delivery sometimes.
 
 
Chris G.

Cindy Abel <brujne@creighton.edu> wrote:


Here is a question that's a bit off-topic. I have 2 16" vinyl dolls
designed by Helen Kish, that I would love to redress in various historic
costumes. I have a pretty accurate pattern of two 18th century gowns
designed for Sasha dolls that I will alter to fit these dolls and use my
copy of Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion" to make more accurate. However
I'm looking for modern reproductions in a small scale of 18th century
fabrics and I'm not enough of an artist to make my own. I live in Omaha, NE
and even the speciality quilt shop here doesn't carry such stuff. I've shown
the staff pics of "real 18th c fabrics" I want a reproduction of and they
drool over them too, but no luck. I'd love to find something along the lines
of the printed fabric used for the robe de la francaise in Arnold in cherry
shades with the "buttoned" stomacher. Does anyone know of anyone out there


		
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars
Date: Tue, 1 Mar 2005 12:22:33 -0700
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I hate that nude spandex look.  It reminds me of ice skating costumes  
and I don't see any purpose at all in using it for evening dresses.

On Mar 1, 2005, at 11:23 AM, Shane & Sheridan wrote:

> Melanie Griffiths dress had nude coloured fabric in the back, the  
> match to
> her skin tone was very good. I'm looking for more pictures of it to  
> get a
> better look, elements of this dress would suit a ball gown or Middle  
> Eastern
> dance gown.
>
> Sheridan
>
> http://www.ctv.ca/mini_v2/oscars2005/static/galleries/red_carpet/ 
> index.html
>
> To see the picture, click on the last star on the right, in the 4th  
> row. If
> you right click the picture it should give you a zoom option. You can  
> see
> the fabric puckering along the seam near the beads.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Cindy Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
> To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2005 12:07 PM
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Oscars
>
>
>>
>>
>>  I kind of like it, but it is really going to look dated in a few  
>> years.
>> Melanie Griffith really got attacked for a dress with a equally low,  
>> but
>> different back--but I think there might have been sheer fabric in  
>> back(or
>> was that skin wrinkling up with the weight she's put on while dealing  
>> with
> a
>> broken foot?).
>>
>> Cindy Abel
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars
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What was with the wide popularity of the "mermaid" skirt? (I'm sure it has another name, but you know what I mean I'm sure.) At least one of the women presenters, can't remember who, was clearly having trouble walking in hers. Definitely a hobble around the knees--thought Women's Liberation included liberation from the inability to run away!
Best outfit=Morgan Freeman's tux with long scarf. He looked like the relaxed and stylish gentleman he seems to be.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
From: AlbertCat@aol.com
Sent: Mar 1, 2005 2:08 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars

 
In a message dated 3/1/2005 11:09:23 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sylvia@ntw.net writes:

I seem  
to be alone in liking Hilary Swank's dress. 


Stupid me! I was thinking of Renee Zellweger's red dress...
 
 
not Swanks trashy gimmicky get up. YUK! Ugly from the front; trashy in the  
back.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars/nude fabric
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Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

> I hate that nude spandex look.  It reminds me of ice skating costumes  
> and I don't see any purpose at all in using it for evening dresses.

I think probably 99% of the people watching won't realize it's fabric. 
They're likely thinking "is it going to fall off?"  "Is it glued on?" 
The vicarious thrill, y'know.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars/nude fabric
Date: Tue, 1 Mar 2005 12:50:58 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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You could tell it was fabric when you saw the back up close because it 
wrinkled.  And I'm sure a lot of people saw her up close before the 
show and at the parties.  I just think it looks really cheap.


On Mar 1, 2005, at 12:32 PM, Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
>
>> I hate that nude spandex look.  It reminds me of ice skating costumes 
>>  and I don't see any purpose at all in using it for evening dresses.
>
> I think probably 99% of the people watching won't realize it's fabric. 
> They're likely thinking "is it going to fall off?"  "Is it glued on?" 
> The vicarious thrill, y'know.
>
> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
>
> "A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
> annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright
> _______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyone ever touched silk Zibeline?
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Lots of people do this.  One of the ladies at Hyena (Sorry, I know some 
of you like them) went as far as to tell me that 100% silk velvet didn't 
really exist so it was justifiable to call rayon/silk velvet pure silk!  
Grrrrrr!

AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

> 
>In a message dated 2/25/2005 7:16:19 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
>wickedfrau@earthlink.net writes:
>
>http://www.fabrics.net/outlet/fabrics.asp?ProductType=Silk+Zibeline
>
>
>They have some other nice things, but why do people persist in calling a  
>fabric that is only 12% silk, "silk velvet'?  NOT!
> 
>Ann Wass
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I found a site with some pics of Melanie Griffith's dress:

http://movies.yahoo.com/shop?d=hc&id=1800018809&cf=pg&photoid=563513&intl=us

Sheridan, if you click on next and previous photos you'll see at least 
two shots that feature the back of her dress.

Not exactly understated, was it?


Shane & Sheridan wrote:

> Melanie Griffiths dress had nude coloured fabric in the back, the match to
> her skin tone was very good. I'm looking for more pictures of it to get a
> better look, elements of this dress would suit a ball gown or Middle Eastern
> dance gown.
> 
> Sheridan

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Melissa Brown Muckart"

> I found a site with some pics of Melanie Griffith's dress:
>
>
http://movies.yahoo.com/shop?d=hc&id=1800018809&cf=pg&photoid=563513&intl=us
>
> Sheridan, if you click on next and previous photos you'll see at least
> two shots that feature the back of her dress.
>
> Not exactly understated, was it?


Nope, which is what made me think it would be perfect for a stage outfit.
:-)

Thanks!

Sheridan


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Mar  1 19:58:28 2005
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars
Date: Tue, 1 Mar 2005 19:56:46 -0500
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What the press is calling the mermaid dress, is an hour-glass dress with a 
fantail.  The bottom of the dress is the fantail.... think of a fantail 
goldfish.  Mae West made this look fashionable in Hollywood.

I liked the fantail when I saw the first couple of stars wearing it. But the 
look was worn by so many ladies, it became boring by the end of the 
pre-show.

I liked Natalie Portman's Greek Goddess look.  She can wear older styles and 
look wonderful.  She is into vintage clothing and wears it frequently.

I also loved Hilary's gown for being different and it hugged her body.  It 
really showed what a great figure she has.  I had to laugh when she was on 
Oprah yesterday.  Someone on the red carpet told her that the crack of her 
butt was showing.  On camera, Chad, her husband, checked and fixed the 
problem, while Hillary front was to the camera.

When I saw Charlize's gown, it screamed 50s prom dresses.  I always hated 
the rows and rows of net ruffles used in that manner.  Even the bodice was 
1950s prom.  To complete the 50s look, she needed more of a crinoline 
petticoat in the front of the skirt.  I think of all the gowns, I disliked 
hers the least.

The only other dress that I disliked was Melanie Griffith.  Her dress was 
much like her face... over-done.  I can see her looking like Joan Rivers in 
20 years.

Kate's dress was a nice style, but I agree with Ann Wass, the color was 
wrong for her.

Mentioning color,  Renee needs to go back to being a blonde or brown hair. 
My husband walked into the room and said, "That girl needs some iron 
tablets.  She looks sickly."  Renee is too fair skinned to have jet black 
hair.

I loved Emmy (from Phantom) and Beyonce looks.  They were so classy.

Star Jones had the best jewels.  Her headpiece and necklace were stunning. 
I love the pearls mixed with jewels.

BTW, the press reported that one of the ladies was wearing vintage 
Versace.... how is Versace vintage?

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars
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On Tuesday 01 March 2005 11:14 am, Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
> What did everyone think of the fashions on the Academy Awards?  I seem
> to be alone in liking Hilary Swank's dress.  She certainly has the body
> for it.

Over the past 10 years I have seen very, very few dresses from the Academy 
Awards that I wholeheartedly liked.  (The last one I remember was from when 
Halle Berry won a few years back--the full plum skirt with cabbage roses over 
illusion net number).

Swank's gown was much more attractive than average, but I thought the back 
opening was just a bit too wide to be graceful or attractive.  Otherwise, her 
gown had a lot going for it.

And Cate Blanchett should never, ever wear bright yellow judging by her 
dress.  :-)

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: david webb <alderweb@vaxxine.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress styles in 18th century-Brunswick image
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On page 175 of Stella Tillyard's "Aristocrats: the illustrated companion to 
the television series" there is a reproduction of  a painting of  Lady Mary 
Fox in a grey/blue? Brunswick c. 1767. The 18th century version of the 
"hoodie"! Self-fabric trimming is as equally elaborate as in the other 
styles of the period, such as the sack.

I can't see this variation ever becoming popular at North American 
reenactments when most events take place in the summer when the average 
temperature is over 90 F. or 30 C. It's high-necked - higher than the 
version in Bjarne's picture - up to the base of the throat - so the wearer 
couldn't show off "the girls", which appears to be a preoccupation with 
many ladies. The painting definitely shows the line of the top of stays 
underneath, though.

The costumes for the series seem mediocre and lots of the factoids are 
wrong, but some excellent images in the book if you find it in the 
remainder bin.

Sheridan Alder

At 10:08 AM 2/28/2005 +0100, you wrote:
>Hi.
>Here are two examples of different dresses. The first is a  Brunnswick 
>dress. Some people claim that a Brunswick only is a jacket, but it is a 
>dress also. This type was very popular in Denmark and Germany, perhaps 
>because it would have ben very nice warm for winter use.Next looks like a 
>francaise dress, but i dont believe it has any pleats in the back. I think 
>it would have a pointed v in the back of the bodice.
>Other types are:
>Bodice and skirt in many variations, included paniers.
>Round Gown, wich looks like a bodice and skirt, but it is a 1 piece garment.
>Piemontaise wich is a dress that looks like a francaise dress, only the 
>pleats in the back hangs free.
>Mantua and skirt.
>One type also is a seperate skirt and a bodice with tabs wich rest on the 
>skirt edge. Tabs are not boned, but soft.
>Closed with a stomacher.
>But i think why people think there are very few types, are that only few 
>are reproduced. People love the pleats in a francaise dress and makes it 
>frequently.
>One thing i was very dissapointed with was the film Aristocrats where 
>nearly every dress in the start was a francaise dress.
>
>Here are the examples:
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/pusling1.htm
>
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
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Hi everyone,
I'm reproducing the "polonaise gown with the back cut en fourreau" on page
36-37 of Patterns of Fashion 1. I've started my corset and expect to be
finished within the next week or so but according to the notes the dress is
supposed to be fitted over a 'false rump' so does anybody know of a good
(online) pattern for this? I can't afford to import patterns so it's got to
be 'big 3' or easy to draft on my own. I assume it isn't the same crescent
shape used by Elizabethan costumers as it essentially only supposed to widen
the hips at the sides but not add to the back. Although the originals are
apparently stuffed with cork I assume padding with something softer would
work as well? Or could I get away with not wearing a bum roll, given that I
have natural padding there instead :)
thanks
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole@iimetro.com.au

Mr. Speaker, I said the honourable member was a liar it is true and I am
sorry for it. The honourable member may place the punctuation where he
pleases.
Richard Brinsley Sheridan (1751-1816) British dramatist. On being asked to
apologise for calling a fellow MP a liar. Attrib.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century 'bum roll'
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In a message dated 3/2/2005 12:22:51 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
ewalpole@iimetro.com.au writes:

rump' so  does anybody know of a good
(online) pattern for  this?


C'mon! You don't need a pattern! It's a crescent shape. It stops just at  the 
front of the hips. [so the waist measurement of the inside curve is maybe 2"  
or 3" more than 1/2 your waist measurement.] No padding in front. 
 
In Jean Hunnisett's 1st volume, on page 27, she has a pattern. The crescent  
is 4" deep CB. It is 5 1/2 wide from CB to the outermost part of the  curve.
 
To plot it, draw a rectangle  5 1/2" wide and 8" tall. Grid it in 1"  
squares. Put a point 2" in from the right side at the top. Now a point on  the right 
side 3" down. Now one 6" down and 1" left from the right side.  One 7" down 
and 2" left, and finally one at the bottom left corner. Draw a curve  connecting 
these. This is the outside curve,
 
The inside curve starts at the same top point [2" left of the right side],  
then goes thru a point 3" down and 3" left, then ends at a  point all the way 
to the left side 4" down.
 
This is the right half of the full crescent shape of the pad.  [You cut two 
full crescents and sew them and stuff them like a  pillow.]
 
This sounds complicated but it's not. You'll get it at once when you start  
plotting points. 
 
 
You may want to enlarge it or curve it more to suit your taste, but you  
don't really need a pattern.
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>I use an iron-on interfacing, "sta-flex" here, and just cut the slashes 
>where I want them. I have also used Fraycheck. You can see slashed sleeves 
>(doublet and breeches too) on my website - these were done with sta-flex.

>http://www.suziclarke.co.uk/viewimage.php?image=fantasy_ramirez_katana.jpg

>Suzi

Hi Suzi,

Does this mean that you can just cut the slashes and not have to do any
other finishing around each one?
Thanks, Anne
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From: "Jaedyn" <jreed@grapeleafpatterns.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 18th century 'bum roll'
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You could also pad the pleats if you weren't into sewing the crescent form.
Check Drea Leed's Elizabethan costuming page and you'll find a pattern there
I think.  You can enlarge it to suit the period.


Jaedyn




----------------------
Grape Leaf Patterns
http://www.grapeleafpatterns.com


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 126
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At 01:48 02/03/2005 -0500, you wrote:

> >I use an iron-on interfacing, "sta-flex" here, and just cut the slashes
> >where I want them. I have also used Fraycheck. You can see slashed sleeves
> >(doublet and breeches too) on my website - these were done with sta-flex.
>
> >http://www.suziclarke.co.uk/viewimage.php?image=fantasy_ramirez_katana.jpg
>
> >Suzi
>
>Hi Suzi,
>
>Does this mean that you can just cut the slashes and not have to do any
>other finishing around each one?
>Thanks, Anne


Yes, depending on the fabric. I did the one on the web site with no 
finishing, but the recent copy I made wasn't so friendly, which is when I 
used fraycheck. Good quality cotton dress velvet is fine, but the rayon 
velvet isn't so good. If you want you can use Fraycheck, or you can also 
use diluted PVA glue, which I have used on 18th pinked hems. You just have 
to watch that the colour doesn't run - the rayon did run, but didn't affect 
the finish.

Suzi


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Subject: [h-cost] Great film photo site
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I found this great website with photos from recent movies, http://outnow.ch/movies/ . They have more photos than any other site I have found.  Choose a movie then click on Media from the left menu... bilder is the movie photos.  Once you click on a thumbnail and get the enlargement, look for an icon in the upper right hand corner.  This will enlarge the photo again.  If you try to print one of these X-large photos, make sure to do a print preview first.  The images are larger than a standard sheet of paper.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com 
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com 
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Great film photo site
Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2005 05:10:26 -0500
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My goodness, look at this set from the film Alexander,
http://outnow.ch/Media/Img/2004/Alexander/?i=movie%2E1%2F14%2Ejpg&w=1400&h=912&full=1&print=1

Penny Ladnier, owner
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I found the master list of films, http://outnow.ch/archive/Movies/ .  When 
you click on a title, scroll to the right and look for the word "bilder" or 
"bild" for a photo link.  I am really enjoying these very large images.

Penny Ladnier, owner
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In a message dated 3/1/2005 10:10:48 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
cathy@thyrsus.com writes:

(The  last one I remember was from when 
Halle Berry won a few years back--the  full plum skirt with cabbage roses 
over 
illusion net  number).




Looked very elegant until you saw that her bosom were fully visible--not my  
idea of elegance or class!!
 
Ann Wass
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References: <dc.214e538a.2f56b3df@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century 'bum roll'
Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2005 07:37:50 -0500
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Heck, back in the primitive days when the look was what mattered for a
NoBudget show, I used a leg from pantyhose and loosely stuffed a section big
enough to fit to the sides, tied it in the middle.  After knotting the end,
I attached two ties and "voila!" It did look strange, but had the desired
effect.  (And another way to recycle)

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 1:14 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century 'bum roll'


>
> In a message dated 3/2/2005 12:22:51 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> ewalpole@iimetro.com.au writes:
>
> rump' so  does anybody know of a good
> (online) pattern for  this?
>
>
> C'mon! You don't need a pattern! It's a crescent shape. It stops just at
the
> front of the hips. [so the waist measurement of the inside curve is maybe
2"
> or 3" more than 1/2 your waist measurement.] No padding in front.
>
> In Jean Hunnisett's 1st volume, on page 27, she has a pattern. The
crescent
> is 4" deep CB. It is 5 1/2 wide from CB to the outermost part of the
curve.
>
> To plot it, draw a rectangle  5 1/2" wide and 8" tall. Grid it in 1"
> squares. Put a point 2" in from the right side at the top. Now a point on
the right
> side 3" down. Now one 6" down and 1" left from the right side.  One 7"
down
> and 2" left, and finally one at the bottom left corner. Draw a curve
connecting
> these. This is the outside curve,
>
> The inside curve starts at the same top point [2" left of the right side],
> then goes thru a point 3" down and 3" left, then ends at a  point all the
way
> to the left side 4" down.
>
> This is the right half of the full crescent shape of the pad.  [You cut
two
> full crescents and sew them and stuff them like a  pillow.]
>
> This sounds complicated but it's not. You'll get it at once when you start
> plotting points.
>
>
> You may want to enlarge it or curve it more to suit your taste, but you
> don't really need a pattern.
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century 'bum roll'
Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2005 07:44:29 -0500
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As to padding , I have been using the ubiquitous shoulder pads for this
purpose (recycle-recycle-recycle) after recovering them with fabric to match
the garment.

Kathleen, who has a mammoth collection of cast off shoulderpads.  At one
time I considered making a whole gown of them.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jaedyn" <jreed@grapeleafpatterns.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 2:04 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 18th century 'bum roll'


> You could also pad the pleats if you weren't into sewing the crescent
form.
> Check Drea Leed's Elizabethan costuming page and you'll find a pattern
there
> I think.  You can enlarge it to suit the period.
>
>
> Jaedyn
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------
> Grape Leaf Patterns
> http://www.grapeleafpatterns.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2005 08:10:25 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Great film photo site
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> I found the master list of films, http://outnow.ch/archive/Movies/ .  When
> you click on a title, scroll to the right and look for the word "bilder"
> or
> "bild" for a photo link.  I am really enjoying these very large images.

Just a hint for everyone regarding this website...Since it isn't American,
the title of a movie you might be searching for could be different.  If
you look up the movie you are interested in using the Internet Movie Data
Base (www.imdb.com), it will give you the alternative titles (mainly for
diff. European countries) for a film.

So if you can't find what the title you are looking for at first, give
that a try and you might find it listed under a different title.

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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For the moment, I'm listing these privately -- here and through the the 
swapsell, costumetrader, and garb4sale lists. Most are in fairly good 
condition, with little wear, though the dust jackets aren't in *perfect* 
shape. I've used Amazon to give an idea of the list-price-new and shipping 
weight where available. Shipping is not included in those prices.
I'll accept offers privately. PayPal (through Frank) would be ideal, but 
will negotiate other payment methods if required.


Caravaggio
Catherine Puglisi (Phaidon, 1998, 2000) ISBN 0-7148-3966-3
Shipping weight 4.3 lb          List price $39.99
Biography of Caravaggio with lots of good details of important paintings. 
Many rarely-seen paintings of both Caravaggio and other artists.


Colour Library: Dürer
Martin Bailey (Phaidon, 1995, 1998, 1999, 2001) ISBN 0-7148-3334-7
Shipping weight 1.2 lb          list price $9.95
Lots of sketches and color plates.

Heaven in Art
Erika Langmuir (National Gallery, London/Watson-Guptill Publications (BPI 
Communications), New York, 1998) ISBN 0-8230-0334-5
Shipping weight 9.6 oz          list price $3.98
13th-17th Centuries Italy (various), Flanders, Germany, Spain. Various 
artists. Images and details of a limited number of religious art works.

Masterpieces of Western Art From the Gothic to the Present Day (A history 
of art in 900 individual studies)
Ingo F. Walther, ed. (Taschen)  3-8228-7031-5
Shipping weight 9.4 lb          list price $49.99
Most are half-page images of paintings. A lot of the usual crop, but some 
that don't appear everywhere.

Italian Paintings of the Sixteenth Century (National Gallery Schools of 
Painting)
Allan Braham  (The National Gallery; Collins,  1985) ISBN 0-00-217402-2
16th Century Italy. Large plates of a limited number of paintings shown -- 
the volume is meant to be representative, not exhaustive. SHOWS SIGNS OF WEAR.

Masters of German Art: Hans Holbein
Stephanie Buck  (Könemann, 1999)  ISBN 3-8290-2583-1
Shipping weight 3 lb  list price ~$20
Lots of great details from important paintings

Masters of Italian Art: Ghirlandaio
Andreas Quermann  (Könemann, 1998)  ISBN 3-8290-0248-3
Shipping weight 3 lb   list price ~$20
Lots of great details from important paintings

Masters of Netherlandish Art: Pieter Bruegel
Christian Vöhringer  (Könemann, 1999) ISBN  3-8290-2579-3
Shipping weight 3 lb   list price ~$20
Bruegel the Elder and others Lots of engravings. Mixture of 
fantasy/phantasmagorical and real subjects. MISSING DUST JACKET.

Paintings in the National Gallery, London
Linda Whiteley, Augusto Gentili, William L. Barcham  (Bulfinch Press , 
2000) ISBN 821226959
Shipping weight  9.8 lb  list price  $135.00
Antiquity to 20th Cent., mostly European.  Lots of large, good-quality 
plates suitable for detail work. STILL HAS ORIGINAL CORRUGATED CARTON

The Prado
Santiago Alcolea (Blanch Abradale Press/Harry N. Abrams, 1991, 1996) ISBN 
0-8109-8147-5
Shipping weight 6 lb
12th - 20th Centuries Spanish, Flemish, Dutch, Italian. Large color plates, 
many of paintings not seen elsewhere.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art Guide (paper)
Kathleen Howard, ed. (The Metropolitan Museum of Art/Harry N. Abrams, New 
York, 1994). Fourth Impression, 2000 ISBN  0-87099-711-4
List price  $17.95
Antiquity to 20th Cent. all countries. Images are small, almost thumbnails

Treasures from the Detroit Institute of Arts
Joh. Enschedé en Zonen, Haarlem, Netherlands, 1966 LoC 66-22478
Black and white images from various countries, periods, and media
Well-worn "READING COPY"; originally purchased second-hand.

Venice: Art and Architecture (2-vol. boxed set)
Giandomenico Romanelli, ed. (Könemann, 1999)  ISBN 3-89508-593-6
Shipping weight 14 lb  List price $89.95 (originally  $150 IIRC)
Antiquity to 20th Cent. Venice. Large plates of various artworks and 
architectural structures

Treasures of Early Irish Art, 1500 B.C. to 1500 A.D.
(Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York/Arnoldo Mondadori Editore, Verona, 
1977) ISBN 0-87099-164-7
Antiquity to 15th Cent. Ireland. Large color photos and plates, mostly 
ancient Irish and through the 8th-9th Centuries
CONDITION: fair to "reading copy"; originally purchased second-hand.

Extreme Beauty: The Body Transformed  (hardbound)
Harold Koda (The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2001) ISBN 0-300-09117-6
Shipping weight 2.9 lb  List price $40.00
1600 to present, various countries. Large color photos of bodices, stays, 
puffed sleeves, petticoats, hoop skirts, etc. Some plates of corresponding 
paintings and engravings.  Mostly OOP for SCA.

Fashion in Detail - From the 17th and 18th Centuries   (hardbound)
Avril Hart and Susan North  (Rizzoli International, 1998) ISBN  0-8478-2151-X
Shipping weight  3.4 lb   List price $60 (lowest price on Amazon is $80!)
Detailed photos of under and outer garments, both in the whole and up-close 
mostly 1600-1800, mostly English

A History of Beads From 30,000 BC to the Present, Concise Edition  (paperback)
Lois Sherr Dubin (Harry N. Abrams, New York, 1995) ISBN 0-8109-2617-2
Shipping weight 1.7 lb  List price  $19.95
Antiquity through present all over the globe. Large photos of beaded 
artworks. Photos, history, uses of beads. Most info OOP for SCA.

Art of Embroidery: History of Style and Technique
Lanto Synge (Royal School of Needlework/Antique Collectors' Club, 
Woodbridge, England, 2001) ISBN 1-85149-359-X
Shipping weight  4.3 lb  List price $89.50 (Ł45)
Antiquity to 20th Cent. Various countries, mostly English  Lots of color 
photos and descriptions.

Wales: A History
Gwynfor Evans (Barnes & Noble, 1996) ISBN 0-7607-0120-2
Celtic to 20th Century Wales. Translated from the Welsh  (original title: 
Land of My Fathers, published 1974).

VIRGIN: Prelude to the Throne
Robin Maxwell (Scribner Paperback Fiction (Simon and Schuster), 2001) ISBN 
0-7432-0485-9
Shipping weight 9.6 oz  List price $12.00
Tudor England, period of Edward VI. Fictional account of Elizabeth's life 
under Thomas Seymour



Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Books for sale
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Great idea!  I'm moving will be posting books for sale this weekend.

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars
Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2005 15:38:28 -0500
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Ann,

If I recall, the print was placed to hide her nipples.  I have the old 
magazines for Oscar fashions.  When I come across her photo, I will let you 
know.

I do recall Gwenth's pink gown that was lovely and Julia R. black and white 
vintage Valentine gown was to die for.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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How imaginative and "kamakazi/gonzo" costuming was
that!
 Tho necessatie has always been the mother of
invention right?
I remember reading about the ladies on the American
Parairie using a lage tin can,both ends cut off,strung
thru with cord and tied around the waist to make a
bustle when there was no "Macy's West" to go to to get
the right look.
 I am guilty of making paniers for my DD'd little Bo
Peep cossie out of plastic grocery bags,stuffed with
other bags clipping open the handles, and retieing
them around her waist.( I've even considered those
large baskin robbins ice cream tubs,split in half,
plus side, you get to empty thoses tubs)
 Melody

--- Lloyd Mitchell <rmitchell@washjeff.edu> wrote:

> Heck, back in the primitive days when the look was
> what mattered for a NoBudget show, I used a leg from
pantyhose and loosely stuffed a section big
> enough to fit to the sides, tied it in the middle. 
> After knotting the end,> I attached two ties and
"voila!" It did look> strange, but had the desired
> effect.  (And another way to recycle)
> > Kathleen

> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 1:14 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century 'bum roll'
> 
> > > 
> > rump'  does anybody know of a good
> > (online) pattern for  this?
> >
> >
> > 


	
		
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Penny Ladnier wrote:

> If I recall, the print was placed to hide her nipples.

The good ol' strategic placement.  Someday maybe sheer fabrics for men 
will be in fashion.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright
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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net (Elena O'Tighearnaigh)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars
Date: Wed, 02 Mar 2005 22:10:51 +0000
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Ooohhhh!  What a tanalizing thought....

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> Penny Ladnier wrote: 
> 
> > If I recall, the print was placed to hide her nipples. 
> 
> The good ol' strategic placement. Someday maybe sheer fabrics for men 
> will be in fashion. 
> 
> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent 
> 
> "A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
> annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
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>> If I recall, the print was placed to hide her nipples.

>The good ol' strategic placement. Someday maybe sheer fabrics for men 
>will be in fashion.
 
 
Heaven forfend!
 
:)
KP

		
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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] A few Historic (or Hysteric) films  I've wondered about
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 I know these movies are a few years ago, but it was
before I was interested in costuming ,so I'll ask now.
 Does anyone remember if the costumes in " Barry
Lyndon" were any good?
 I vaguely remember the time era as 1700's.

Also the outfits in the rather, "strange", movie "The
Brotherhood of the Wolf" ,...how were these.
Last one: "Restoration"... w Meg Ryan & Rob't Downey
....
 Do you see a pattern here, yes I like the look...
I figure, if all men wore these clothes, wars would
never be fought.
 ( can you just see some guy in a big wig ,tricorn,
petticoat breeches,lace boot toppers,sleeve lace
,jabot and frock coat squaring off {Picture Robert
Dinero tricked out}"You looking at me?, ,you looking
at me Punk?" Opposite side, Clint Eastwood" Go
ahead-make my day,Fop)

 Back to reality,
Melody


	
		
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(snip)
> Do you see a pattern here, yes I like the look...
> I figure, if all men wore these clothes, wars would
> never be fought.
> ( can you just see some guy in a big wig ,tricorn,
> petticoat breeches,lace boot toppers,sleeve lace
> ,jabot and frock coat squaring off {Picture Robert
> Dinero tricked out}"You looking at me?, ,you looking
> at me Punk?" Opposite side, Clint Eastwood" Go
> ahead-make my day,Fop)
>
> Back to reality,
> Melody

Oh, but they did....the era you're speaking of was rife with warfare and 
private dueling of all sorts.  I do historic rapier combat and the 17th and 
18th centuries were the height of the dueling age.

I do love the costumes, though, and think that men do look womderful in 
them.

Melusine 

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In a message dated 3/2/2005 4:05:47 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
cvirtue+dated+1125349040.72e230@thibault.org writes:

Someday  maybe sheer fabrics for men 
will be in  fashion.



Remember the 1950s nylon shirts?  They were sheer.  I don't  remember if ALL 
guys wore T/undershirts beneath.
 
Ann Wass
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In a message dated 2/25/2005 4:27:34 PM Central Standard Time, 
irmgart@gmail.com writes:
http://tinyurl.com/5pgc9
the Irish over is is similar to mine, but the sleeves of the underdress are 
more fitted.  I have saved those sites you sent.  They willhelp in the future, 
finally got the backbone to tell a few friends I didn't care to compete just 
wanted to sew, but that may change and at that time will need the sites 
everyone has been so nice to send. thanks for your help and interest of a beginner.

sincerely theresa
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If you are a fan of the film Chicago and own the DVD or video... I really need some help.  I have some photos of an exhibit of the film's costumes.  I have one lady's costume that is very detailed but can't seem to find the costume in the film.  It is sticking in my mind, that it is in the film, but I can't figure out where.  If you would like to take a stab at trying to find this costume in the film, please email off list.  

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com 
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com 
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A few Historic (or Hysteric) films  I've wondered about
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In a message dated 03/02/05 10:39:46 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
celticredhead2002@yahoo.com writes:

I know  these movies are a few years ago, but it was
before I was interested in  costuming ,so I'll ask now.
Does anyone remember if the costumes in "  Barry
Lyndon" were any good?
I vaguely remember the time era as  1700's.
 
The costumes from "Barry Lyndon", IMO, were very good. If you are familiar  
with portraits of the time period, you can see where some of the costumes were  
copied from the portraits.

Also the  outfits in the rather, "strange", movie "The
Brotherhood of the Wolf"  ,...how were these.
Last one: "Restoration"... w Meg Ryan & Rob't  Downey


Other than the fact that "Brotherhood of the Wolf" had a lot of  fantasy 
elements about it, the costumes were  good. I remember that  the movie was a lot 
better than I thought it would be. It played at the local  mutliplex for a long 
time.
 
The costumes in "Restoration" were very well done. A first-class film, IMO. 
 
Kathleen Norvell
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A few Historic (or Hysteric) films  I've wondered about
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At 00:46 03/03/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>In a message dated 03/02/05 10:39:46 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>celticredhead2002@yahoo.com writes:
>
>I know  these movies are a few years ago, but it was
>before I was interested in  costuming ,so I'll ask now.
>Does anyone remember if the costumes in "  Barry
>Lyndon" were any good?
>I vaguely remember the time era as  1700's.
>
>The costumes from "Barry Lyndon", IMO, were very good. If you are familiar
>with portraits of the time period, you can see where some of the costumes 
>were
>copied from the portraits.
>
>Also the  outfits in the rather, "strange", movie "The
>Brotherhood of the Wolf"  ,...how were these.

I studied a couple of these to copy for a customer. Based on originals, but 
gussied up for the film. I was told that the designer had based one of the 
garments on a coat in Kyoto, but I couldn't find anything the same.

>Last one: "Restoration"... w Meg Ryan & Rob't  Downey

This was designed by James Aitcheson, of "Dangerous Liasons" fame. He is 
generally considered to be spot on with shapes and styles, but I felt this 
was  the "fussy" end of fashion rather than the more simple - all petticoat 
breeches and ribbon trim.

Suzi





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>>> celticredhead2002@yahoo.com 03/03/2005 03:27:56 >>> wrote:

> I know these movies are a few years ago, but it was
>before I was interested in costuming ,so I'll ask now.
> Does anyone remember if the costumes in " Barry
>Lyndon" were any good?
 >I vaguely remember the time era as 1700's.

(Eagerly sticks hand up) I have first-hand knowledge of the "Barry
Lyndon" costumes, though I'm not an expert on the 18th  century. 
In 1977, when there were fewer reenactment societies than there are
now, the Sealed Knot, who normally do English Civil War, were lent
redcoat uniforms from the "Barry Lyndon" costumes in order to put on an
event commemorating John Paul Jones's raid on Whitehaven in 1777.
(Actually the military scenes in the film are set a little earlier than
that, I think around 1750.)  Some of us enjoyed it so much that we
formed a sub-group and put on 18th century mini-events for several years
afterwards. The late David Chandler, the historian, who had charge of
the costumes, let some of us borrow civilian clothes as well. I had a
dress complete with side hoops and a pair of stays. The dress was made
of a striped curtain material, used inside out so that the colours were
muted. (It was worn by one of the attendants on Lady Lyndon in the
bathing scene.) As far as I know the cut and underpinnings were
authentic. The uniforms came in two qualities depending on how near the
camera the wearer had been. The "other ranks" uniforms were not scarlet
but a dull brick-red colour, in accordance with the fact that, in
period, a cheaper dye was used for them than for officers' uniforms.

Kate Bunting
Librarian & 17th cent. reenactor

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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A few ) films I've wondered about.... Kate & Barry Lyndon
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--- Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote:

> 
> 
> >>> celticredhead2002@yahoo.com 03/03/2005 03:27:56
> >>> wrote:
> SNIP
>> > Does anyone remember if the costumes in " Barry
> >Lyndon" were any good?
>  ***Hi Kate,thanks for replying***

> (Eagerly sticks hand up) I have first-hand knowledge
> of the "Barry Lyndon" costumes, 
> b-group and put on 18th century
> . The late David Chandler, the historian,
> who had charge of the costumes, let some of us
borrow civilian clothes as well.
 **** Lucky you!****
 I had a dress complete with side hoops and a pair of
stays. The dress was made of a striped curtain
material, used inside out so that the colours were
muted. 
  *** Do you remember the cut of the dress? was it a 2
piece unit (bodice & skirt) or was it 1 piece( bodice
with skirt attached)?Since it was a"costume" I
wondered if they did seperates to fit more then 1
actress. Was the bodice waist and back both pointed?
 Laced in the back or on the sided,or front pinned?
Did it  have a stomacher?  ANy info you can remember
is great!****
  It was worn by one of the attendants on Lady
> Lyndon in the bathing scene.) As far as I know the
cut and underpinnings were authentic. 
>> > Kate Bunting
> Librarian & 17th cent. reenactor
>  ***Thanks Kate,Hope you tookpictures, if you did
will you share?****
Melody
>
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> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 



	
		
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 Hi All,
In reading a book on cloting of the past they
described a sleeve as being "Mahoitered".....
 What is this?
  Does anyone have a visual example?
 How was it done and in what time frame?
The book refered to sleeves being "mahoitered" but
then the word turns up in other area of clothing  too.
 Is this particular treatment confined to a particular
time period or country?
Thanks all.
Melody


	
		
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From: "Joanna" <joanna.hobbins@gmail.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] A Term I need explained
Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2005 12:46:49 -0500
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According to the OED:

A pad placed in the upper part of the sleeve of a garment for the purpose of
increasing the apparent breadth of the shoulders. 
 
  1834 J. R. PLANCHÉ Hist. Brit. Costume 201 The shoulders were padded out
with large waddings called mahoitres. 1846 F. W. FAIRHOLT Costume in Eng.
Gloss., Mahoitres,..the wadded and up-raised shoulders in fashion during the
fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. 1935 Times Lit. Suppl. 21 Dec. 873/1 The
mahoitres of the fifteenth-century dandy.
 
Joanna

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Melody Watts
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2005 12:15 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] A Term I need explained


 Hi All,
In reading a book on cloting of the past they
described a sleeve as being "Mahoitered".....
 What is this?
  Does anyone have a visual example?
 How was it done and in what time frame?
The book refered to sleeves being "mahoitered" but
then the word turns up in other area of clothing  too.
 Is this particular treatment confined to a particular
time period or country?
Thanks all.
Melody


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] A Term I need explained
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> According to the OED:
>
> A pad placed in the upper part of the sleeve of a garment for the purpose
> of
> increasing the apparent breadth of the shoulders.
>
>   1834 J. R. PLANCHÉ Hist. Brit. Costume 201 The shoulders were padded out
> with large waddings called mahoitres. 1846 F. W. FAIRHOLT Costume in Eng.
> Gloss., Mahoitres,..the wadded and up-raised shoulders in fashion during
> the
> fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. 1935 Times Lit. Suppl. 21 Dec. 873/1
> The
> mahoitres of the fifteenth-century dandy.
>
> Joanna

So would that be the correct term for what they do to modern men's suits? 
You know how the shoulders are padded internally?

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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From: "Cindy Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] A Term I need explained
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I've also seen the term spelled Malhoitres or Malhoitered. I've seen it
mentioned in English fashion magazines. It was kind of a mannered way of
specifying sleeves that were padded out to resemble the similar mid-late
fifteenth century sleeves as worn by the rich and fashionable males only.
The Romantic era(1820-1840) in England and France was very big on bringing
medieval and Renaissance influences back into fashion in clothing and art.

Hope this helps

Cindy Abel 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Joanna
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2005 11:47 AM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] A Term I need explained

According to the OED:

A pad placed in the upper part of the sleeve of a garment for the purpose of
increasing the apparent breadth of the shoulders. 
 
  1834 J. R. PLANCHÉ Hist. Brit. Costume 201 The shoulders were padded out
with large waddings called mahoitres. 1846 F. W. FAIRHOLT Costume in Eng.
Gloss., Mahoitres,..the wadded and up-raised shoulders in fashion during the
fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. 1935 Times Lit. Suppl. 21 Dec. 873/1 The
mahoitres of the fifteenth-century dandy.
 
Joanna

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Melody Watts
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2005 12:15 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] A Term I need explained


 Hi All,
In reading a book on cloting of the past they described a sleeve as being
"Mahoitered".....
 What is this?
  Does anyone have a visual example?
 How was it done and in what time frame?
The book refered to sleeves being "mahoitered" but then the word turns up in
other area of clothing  too.
 Is this particular treatment confined to a particular time period or
country?
Thanks all.
Melody


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In a message dated 3/3/2005 1:47:47 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dch@inreach.com writes:

So would  that be the correct term for what they do to modern men's suits? 
You know  how the shoulders are padded internally?




Perhaps only in eras where the shoulder line is really exaggerated?   Right 
now, I would say the padding is just to give a smooth line, but not  
particularly full.
 
Ann Wass
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Oh, thanks so much for this wonderful word! I read these postings in my office in the English department of my university and immediately shared "mahoitre" with a colleague in the next office. We decided it would be a wonderful thing to call somebody--as my colleague suggested, a sort of "stuffed shirt" (oh, you old mahoiter!).

Then I realized we already do say to people "oh, don't be so hoity-toity."

Back to dictionary:
The OED gives this etymology for mahoitre:
[< French mahoître (also maheutre; 15th cent. in Middle French; 13th cent. in Old French as mahustre in sense shoulder, upper arm; cf. Anglo-Norman mahustre, mahutre upper arm); further etymology disputed.]

According to the OED, the term hoity-toity didnt appear in print until the late 1600s, but at that time it bore two meanings: romping and the assumption of superiority, airs, huffiness. The American Heritage dictionary defines hoity-toity as puffed up, pompousso, do you suppose that somewhere in the Unacknowledged etymology of hoity-toity (only mentioned are words meaning high) is this stuffed-shirt mahoitre? (or at least might it share some of mahoitre's own etymology?)

Here's to Etymology! Here's to TAILORING YOUR VOCABULARY?

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

 
-----Original Message-----
From: Diana Habra <dch@inreach.com>
Sent: Mar 3, 2005 1:44 PM
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] A Term I need explained


> According to the OED:
>
> A pad placed in the upper part of the sleeve of a garment for the purpose
> of
> increasing the apparent breadth of the shoulders.
>
>   1834 J. R. PLANCHÉ Hist. Brit. Costume 201 The shoulders were padded out
> with large waddings called mahoitres. 1846 F. W. FAIRHOLT Costume in Eng.
> Gloss., Mahoitres,..the wadded and up-raised shoulders in fashion during
> the
> fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. 1935 Times Lit. Suppl. 21 Dec. 873/1
> The
> mahoitres of the fifteenth-century dandy.
>
> Joanna

So would that be the correct term for what they do to modern men's suits? 
You know how the shoulders are padded internally?

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Very cool....love words. It is definately NOT what we do to men's 
jackets. I have a few pictures of these in period portraiture and have 
constructed them. They can become quite huge. If you like I can send you 
some pictures of them....I think you might be a little surprised at how 
big they were!

Sg

ruthanneb@mindspring.com wrote:

>Oh, thanks so much for this wonderful word! I read these postings in my office in the English department of my university and immediately shared "mahoitre" with a colleague in the next office. We decided it would be a wonderful thing to call somebody--as my colleague suggested, a sort of "stuffed shirt" (oh, you old mahoiter!).
>
>Then I realized we already do say to people "oh, don't be so hoity-toity."
>
>Back to dictionary:
>The OED gives this etymology for mahoitre:
>[< French mahoître (also maheutre; 15th cent. in Middle French; 13th cent. in Old French as mahustre in sense shoulder, upper arm; cf. Anglo-Norman mahustre, mahutre upper arm); further etymology disputed.]
>
>According to the OED, the term hoity-toity didnt appear in print until the late 1600s, but at that time it bore two meanings: romping and the assumption of superiority, airs, huffiness. The American Heritage dictionary defines hoity-toity as puffed up, pompousso, do you suppose that somewhere in the Unacknowledged etymology of hoity-toity (only mentioned are words meaning high) is this stuffed-shirt mahoitre? (or at least might it share some of mahoitre's own etymology?)
>
>Here's to Etymology! Here's to TAILORING YOUR VOCABULARY?
>
>--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
>scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>
> 
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Diana Habra <dch@inreach.com>
>Sent: Mar 3, 2005 1:44 PM
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: RE: [h-cost] A Term I need explained
>
>
>  
>
>>According to the OED:
>>
>>A pad placed in the upper part of the sleeve of a garment for the purpose
>>of
>>increasing the apparent breadth of the shoulders.
>>
>>  1834 J. R. PLANCHÉ Hist. Brit. Costume 201 The shoulders were padded out
>>with large waddings called mahoitres. 1846 F. W. FAIRHOLT Costume in Eng.
>>Gloss., Mahoitres,..the wadded and up-raised shoulders in fashion during
>>the
>>fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. 1935 Times Lit. Suppl. 21 Dec. 873/1
>>The
>>mahoitres of the fifteenth-century dandy.
>>
>>Joanna
>>    
>>
>
>So would that be the correct term for what they do to modern men's suits? 
>You know how the shoulders are padded internally?
>
>Diana
>
>www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
>"Everything for the Costumer"
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>  
>
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Ok, I admit I've spent too much time browsing ebay this week....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4156&item=8174950485&rd=1

Is that a historical design or what?



Dawn

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> Ok, I admit I've spent too much time browsing ebay this week....
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4156&item=8174950485&rd=1
>
> Is that a historical design or what?
>
Did you check out the seller's other item for sale?

 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=1467&item=5562898198&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

I think someone else has too much time on his hands.

Sylrog
>


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From: ruthanneb@mindspring.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: RE: [h-cost] A Term I need explained
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I'd love to see a some pictures. --RAB

-----Original Message-----
From: Wicked Frau <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
Sent: Mar 3, 2005 6:01 PM
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: RE: [h-cost] A Term I need explained

Very cool....love words. It is definately NOT what we do to men's 
jackets. I have a few pictures of these in period portraiture and have 
constructed them. They can become quite huge. If you like I can send you 
some pictures of them....I think you might be a little surprised at how 
big they were!

Sg

ruthanneb@mindspring.com wrote:

>Oh, thanks so much for this wonderful word! I read these postings in my office in the English department of my university and immediately shared "mahoitre" with a colleague in the next office. We decided it would be a wonderful thing to call somebody--as my colleague suggested, a sort of "stuffed shirt" (oh, you old mahoiter!).
>
>Then I realized we already do say to people "oh, don't be so hoity-toity."
>
>Back to dictionary:
>The OED gives this etymology for mahoitre:
>[< French mahoître (also maheutre; 15th cent. in Middle French; 13th cent. in Old French as mahustre in sense ?shoulder, upper arm?; cf. Anglo-Norman mahustre, mahutre upper arm); further etymology disputed.]
>
>According to the OED, the term ?hoity-toity? didn?t appear in print until the late 1600s, but at that time it bore two meanings: ?romping? and the ?assumption of superiority, ?airs?, huffiness.? The American Heritage dictionary defines ?hoity-toity? as ?puffed up, pompous??so, do you suppose that somewhere in the Unacknowledged etymology of ?hoity-toity? (only mentioned are words meaning ?high?) is this stuffed-shirt ?mahoitre?? (or at least might it share some of mahoitre's own etymology?)
>
>Here's to Etymology! Here's to TAILORING YOUR VOCABULARY?
>
>--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
>scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>
> 
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Diana Habra <dch@inreach.com>
>Sent: Mar 3, 2005 1:44 PM
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: RE: [h-cost] A Term I need explained
>
>
>  
>
>>According to the OED:
>>
>>A pad placed in the upper part of the sleeve of a garment for the purpose
>>of
>>increasing the apparent breadth of the shoulders.
>>
>>  1834 J. R. PLANCHÉ Hist. Brit. Costume 201 The shoulders were padded out
>>with large waddings called mahoitres. 1846 F. W. FAIRHOLT Costume in Eng.
>>Gloss., Mahoitres,..the wadded and up-raised shoulders in fashion during
>>the
>>fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. 1935 Times Lit. Suppl. 21 Dec. 873/1
>>The
>>mahoitres of the fifteenth-century dandy.
>>
>>Joanna
>>    
>>
>
>So would that be the correct term for what they do to modern men's suits? 
>You know how the shoulders are padded internally?
>
>Diana
>
>www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
>"Everything for the Costumer"
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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>
>_______________________________________________
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>  
>
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On Thursday 03 March 2005 7:23 pm, sylvia@ntw.net wrote:
> > Ok, I admit I've spent too much time browsing ebay this week....
> >
> > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4156&item=81749504
> >85&rd=1
> >
> > Is that a historical design or what?

And the best part is that it's the only design I've ever seen that's correct 
for all periods.  :-)

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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Here is one:  
http://www.forum-hes.nl/forum/main_stocklist.phtml/view/5959?view=yes
I had forgotten that I posted a very similar query in 2003 to several 
lists.  I am looking for other pictures.  Could have sworn I had a whole 
collection of them...now I must find them!  A quest! 

Sg

ruthanneb@mindspring.com wrote:

>I'd love to see a some pictures. --RAB
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Wicked Frau <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
>Sent: Mar 3, 2005 6:01 PM
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: Fw: RE: [h-cost] A Term I need explained
>
>Very cool....love words. It is definately NOT what we do to men's 
>jackets. I have a few pictures of these in period portraiture and have 
>constructed them. They can become quite huge. If you like I can send you 
>some pictures of them....I think you might be a little surprised at how 
>big they were!
>
>Sg
>
>ruthanneb@mindspring.com wrote:
>
>  
>
>>Oh, thanks so much for this wonderful word! I read these postings in my office in the English department of my university and immediately shared "mahoitre" with a colleague in the next office. We decided it would be a wonderful thing to call somebody--as my colleague suggested, a sort of "stuffed shirt" (oh, you old mahoiter!).
>>
>>Then I realized we already do say to people "oh, don't be so hoity-toity."
>>
>>Back to dictionary:
>>The OED gives this etymology for mahoitre:
>>[< French mahoître (also maheutre; 15th cent. in Middle French; 13th cent. in Old French as mahustre in sense ?shoulder, upper arm?; cf. Anglo-Norman mahustre, mahutre upper arm); further etymology disputed.]
>>
>>According to the OED, the term ?hoity-toity? didn?t appear in print until the late 1600s, but at that time it bore two meanings: ?romping? and the ?assumption of superiority, ?airs?, huffiness.? The American Heritage dictionary defines ?hoity-toity? as ?puffed up, pompous??so, do you suppose that somewhere in the Unacknowledged etymology of ?hoity-toity? (only mentioned are words meaning ?high?) is this stuffed-shirt ?mahoitre?? (or at least might it share some of mahoitre's own etymology?)
>>
>>Here's to Etymology! Here's to TAILORING YOUR VOCABULARY?
>>
>>--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
>>scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Diana Habra <dch@inreach.com>
>>Sent: Mar 3, 2005 1:44 PM
>>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>>Subject: RE: [h-cost] A Term I need explained
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>>    
>>
>>>According to the OED:
>>>
>>>A pad placed in the upper part of the sleeve of a garment for the purpose
>>>of
>>>increasing the apparent breadth of the shoulders.
>>>
>>> 1834 J. R. PLANCHÉ Hist. Brit. Costume 201 The shoulders were padded out
>>>with large waddings called mahoitres. 1846 F. W. FAIRHOLT Costume in Eng.
>>>Gloss., Mahoitres,..the wadded and up-raised shoulders in fashion during
>>>the
>>>fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. 1935 Times Lit. Suppl. 21 Dec. 873/1
>>>The
>>>mahoitres of the fifteenth-century dandy.
>>>
>>>Joanna
>>>   
>>>
>>>      
>>>
>>So would that be the correct term for what they do to modern men's suits? 
>>You know how the shoulders are padded internally?
>>
>>Diana
>>
>>www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
>>"Everything for the Costumer"
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>> 
>>
>>    
>>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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>
>  
>
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In a message dated 3/3/2005 7:23:26 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dawn@reddawn.net writes:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4156&item=8174950485&rd
=1




Aren't they lovely?
 
Ann Wass
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] have a look at this costume
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>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4156&item=8174950485&rd=1
>
>Is that a historical design or what?

Ooh, look at all the embroidery.  Look at the beautiful fabric.  Etc.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century \'bum roll\'
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> 
> In a message dated 3/2/2005 12:22:51 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> ewalpole@iimetro.com.au writes:
> 
> rump' so  does anybody know of a good
> (online) pattern for  this?
> 
> 
> C'mon! You don't need a pattern! It's a crescent shape. It stops just at  the
> front of the hips. [so the waist measurement of the inside curve is maybe 2"
> or 3" more than 1/2 your waist measurement.] No padding in front.

Ah so it is the same shape as the bum roll Elizabethan costumers like to use, I got the impression it was more sort of heart shaped with the padding concentrated over the hips (to the side) and little to no padding at the back.
If that's all it is I may as well make use of the bumroll in Simplicity 8881 (the shakespeare in Love dress) as I've used the bodice and sleeve sections of the pattern but nothing else.
Thanks
Elizabeth

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> Ok, I admit I've spent too much time browsing ebay this week....
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4156&item=8174950485&rd=1
> 
> Is that a historical design or what?
> 
> 
> 
> Dawn

Sure it is, nakedness is always period it's other people's reaction to that nakedness that changes between time periods and cultures

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Greetings.

I've never used dylon dyes and need to dye a piece of linen. Has anyone dyed 
fabric in a washing machine using dylon? The instructions call for using a 
bowl, but I've got too large a piece of linen to dye.

Help, please!

Thanks so much.

kate
PS--the package says that it's a permanent dye. Just how permanent is 
permanent? I know that Rit often bleeds... 


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>I've never used dylon dyes and need to dye a piece of linen. Has anyone 
>dyed fabric in a washing machine using dylon? The instructions call for 
>using a bowl, but I've got too large a piece of linen to dye.

I think there are machine instructions too.  Can you get Dylon hot-water 
dye in the US?  I can't anymore.

I find Dylon permanent and true to color - if it says black, it means 
black, etc.  And you can dye plastic buttons with it, if you simmer them in 
the dye bath for like half an hour.  You can either get the color you want 
or a good tint of it, depending on the plastic of the button.  I even made 
white plastic dice look like bone ones, using Dylon, for use at Ren. Faire.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: RE: [h-cost] A Term I need explained ..."hello,
	I think I got left out....."
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hello? (waves)
That was my "word" and question. So, could you please
send me thoses examples too....as the original book I
found the word in had pen & ink drawings of sleeves I
would have called "paned"or "those stuft roll thingys
at the sleeve heads" and refered to them as
"mahoitered".
Melody

--- Wicked Frau <wickedfrau@earthlink.net> wrote:

> Very cool....love words. It is definately NOT what
> we do to men's 
> jackets. I have a few pictures of these in period
> portraiture and have 
> constructed them. They can become quite huge. If you
> like I can send you 
> some pictures of them....I think you might be a
> little surprised at how 
> big they were!
> 
> Sg
> 
> ruthanneb@mindspring.com wrote:
> 
> >Oh, thanks so much for this wonderful word! I read
> these postings in my office in the English
> department of my university and immediately shared
> "mahoitre" with a colleague in the next office. We
> decided it would be a wonderful thing to call
> somebody--as my colleague suggested, a sort of
> "stuffed shirt" (oh, you old mahoiter!).
> >
> >Then I realized we already do say to people "oh,
> don't be so hoity-toity."
> >
> >Back to dictionary:
> >The OED gives this etymology for mahoitre:
> >[< French mahoître (also maheutre; 15th cent. in
> Middle French; 13th cent. in Old French as mahustre
> in sense shoulder, upper arm; cf. Anglo-Norman
> mahustre, mahutre upper arm); further etymology
> disputed.]
> >
> >According to the OED, the term hoity-toity didnt
> appear in print until the late 1600s, but at that
> time it bore two meanings: romping and the
> assumption of superiority, airs, huffiness. The
> American Heritage dictionary defines hoity-toity
> as puffed up, pompousso, do you suppose that
> somewhere in the Unacknowledged etymology of
> hoity-toity (only mentioned are words meaning
> high) is this stuffed-shirt mahoitre? (or at
> least might it share some of mahoitre's own
> etymology?)
> >
> >Here's to Etymology! Here's to TAILORING YOUR
> VOCABULARY?
> >
> >--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> >scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
> >
> > 
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Diana Habra <dch@inreach.com>
> >Sent: Mar 3, 2005 1:44 PM
> >To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> >Subject: RE: [h-cost] A Term I need explained
> >
> >
> >  
> >
> >>According to the OED:
> >>
> >>A pad placed in the upper part of the sleeve of a
> garment for the purpose
> >>of
> >>increasing the apparent breadth of the shoulders.
> >>
> >>  1834 J. R. PLANCHÉ Hist. Brit. Costume 201 The
> shoulders were padded out
> >>with large waddings called mahoitres. 1846 F. W.
> FAIRHOLT Costume in Eng.
> >>Gloss., Mahoitres,..the wadded and up-raised
> shoulders in fashion during
> >>the
> >>fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. 1935 Times Lit.
> Suppl. 21 Dec. 873/1
> >>The
> >>mahoitres of the fifteenth-century dandy.
> >>
> >>Joanna
> >>    
> >>
> >
> >So would that be the correct term for what they do
> to modern men's suits? 
> >You know how the shoulders are padded internally?
> >
> >Diana
> >
> >www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
> >"Everything for the Costumer"
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
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> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >  
> >
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] dylon dye 
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ah.. linen... well I wouldn't recommend cold dye then but would otherwise
recommend dylon.

I would double the amount of dye said to be needed, I find it gives a deeper
and richer effect.

In fact with the cold water dylon my recommendation is to use half a litre
of liquid and paint it on damp fabric with a broad paintdrush, leave it to
dry and then wash it out.

If the instructions say to use a bowl, then you have the cold water dye, and
I wouldn't recommend a washing machine. They do make dyes for the washing
machine though.

So my experiences:
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/phantom/blue.htm
Dylon multipurpose in a large stock pot on the stove, piece by piece. Making
sure I would do the whole bodice, then the drapery then the skirt so any
inconsistency in dyeing was not noticeable.
Cotton and polyester brocade. If I dyed it too many times, the polyester
went a funny colour, it absorbed the greens from the blue dye.

http://costumes.glittersweet.com/movies/poison.htm
Dylon Multipurpose on the stove. Good for acheiving a fade from one colour
to another just altering heat of dyebath and length of time in the bath.
nylon lycra, took the colour *very* well.

http://costumes.glittersweet.com/movies/ladym.htm
Dylon Multipurpose dye.
Good even coverage over a dark brown viscose. Navy blue turned the fabric a
dark licorice black.

http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/valois.htm
Dylon cold water dye. Silk just dipped and swished in a 40litre plastic
container to make the pale lilac of the inner sleeves.
2pots of dye with the right salts and mixed to just 500ml of water (two cups
or thereabouts) and painted on the silk to get the proper purple (that was
supposed to be got from the dye) on the farthingale.
I found I did not have the ability to aggitate the dye bath as much as it
was needed to to prevent blotchiness so painting was the best solution.

And just now:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/costume/1570fabrictest.jpg
one cold water dye in 1L of water with salts 5min bath and washed. This is
likely to be a rayon mix if not pure rayon.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/costume/1570fabricsa.jpg
the top is the colour of the linen originally, the bottom is the linen after
several dyebaths involving about 7 pots of dye for 5m of 150cm wide fabric
(about 5 yards of 60" wide fabric)

The change is subtle. And I suspect a multipurpose dyebath would be better
as it uses heat.

michaela
http://glittersweet.com



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>>> celticredhead2002@yahoo.com 03/03/2005 17:05:16 >>> wrote:

  *** Do you remember the cut of the dress? was it a 2
piece unit (bodice & skirt) or was it 1 piece( bodice
with skirt attached)?Since it was a"costume" I
wondered if they did seperates to fit more then 1
actress. Was the bodice waist and back both pointed?
 Laced in the back or on the sided,or front pinned?
Did it  have a stomacher?  ANy info you can remember
is great!****
It wasn't a two-piece in that sense. There was a pale pink underskirt;
the overdress was cut without a waist seam at the centre back (I believe
the period term was "en fourreau"). I can't remember exactly how the
bodice was in front, but there wasn't a separate stomacher, and I think
it closed with hooks. The waist came to a point over the gap where the
underskirt showed.
There are one or two photos of me in it, but nothing accessible online,
I'm afraid (it was more than twenty years ago!)

Kate

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I think I will just go ahead and post them on my website this eveing.  
It may be easier. 

Sg  :)


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	<4227d16ad44bb7.79812774@iimetro.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century \'bum roll\'
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2005 08:01:34 -0500
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I think this one is in the lovely box of goodies found on e-bay.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <ewalpole@iimetro.com.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2005 10:09 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century \'bum roll\'


> >
> > In a message dated 3/2/2005 12:22:51 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> > ewalpole@iimetro.com.au writes:
> >
> > rump' so  does anybody know of a good
> > (online) pattern for  this?
> >
> >
> > C'mon! You don't need a pattern! It's a crescent shape. It stops just at
the
> > front of the hips. [so the waist measurement of the inside curve is
maybe 2"
> > or 3" more than 1/2 your waist measurement.] No padding in front.
>
> Ah so it is the same shape as the bum roll Elizabethan costumers like to
use, I got the impression it was more sort of heart shaped with the padding
concentrated over the hips (to the side) and little to no padding at the
back.
> If that's all it is I may as well make use of the bumroll in Simplicity
8881 (the shakespeare in Love dress) as I've used the bodice and sleeve
sections of the pattern but nothing else.
> Thanks
> Elizabeth
>
> _______________________________________________
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	<200503032027.50959.cathy@thyrsus.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] have a look at this costume
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2005 07:59:53 -0500
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This is Gorgeous!!!  I might make a bid afterall.  It suits all taste.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2005 8:27 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] have a look at this costume


> On Thursday 03 March 2005 7:23 pm, sylvia@ntw.net wrote:
> > > Ok, I admit I've spent too much time browsing ebay this week....
> > >
> > >
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4156&item=81749504
> > >85&rd=1
> > >
> > > Is that a historical design or what?
>
> And the best part is that it's the only design I've ever seen that's
correct
> for all periods.  :-)
>
> -- 
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] dylon dye
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>>I've never used dylon dyes and need to dye a piece of linen. Has anyone
>>dyed fabric in a washing machine using dylon? The instructions call for
>>using a bowl, but I've got too large a piece of linen to dye.
>
>I think there are machine instructions too.  Can you get Dylon hot-water
>dye in the US?  I can't anymore.
>
>I find Dylon permanent and true to color - if it says black, it means
>black, etc.  And you can dye plastic buttons with it, if you simmer them in
>the dye bath for like half an hour.  You can either get the color you want
>or a good tint of it, depending on the plastic of the button.  I even made
>white plastic dice look like bone ones, using Dylon, for use at Ren. Faire.

so where does one get this wondrous stuff?  I have a need to RE-dye a faded 
black doublet/jerkin .....

Jerusha (who sortof changed email addresses -- but not really)

-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Botany Department, University of Tennessee
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium

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Susan Farmer wrote:
>>I think there are machine instructions too.  Can you get Dylon hot-water
>>dye in the US?  I can't anymore.
> 
> 
> so where does one get this wondrous stuff?  I have a need to RE-dye a faded 
> black doublet/jerkin .....

I got my original boxes from Teddy as part of the Great Dye Experiment* 
several years ago. I have since ordered Dylon Machine Dye from the UK
http://www.sewandso.co.uk/ran840-0.html

I have a large Kenmore front-loader, theoretically modeled on German 
front loaders. This Dylon Dye (not available in the US) and my machine 
do a great job dying large jobs. No residue, even color, seems to be 
mostly color fast (cotton and linen dyed so far).

liz young

*Several of us on the list in the US received boxes of Dylon Machine Dye 
from Teddy (I think Teddy sent them all) and tried the dye in our 
American machines. I know it worked in front-loaders and worked some of 
the time in top-loaders. "Dylon Machine Dye" in the archives ought to 
get you the thread.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] dylon dye
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Michaela, I don't know whether I am more impressed by your dying techniques, your costumes or your website.  All I can say is WOW I AM impressed!  Gone are the days when my figure would allow me to wear some of the things you do, but I agree about the Elizabeth of Valois gown.  There is a red one that I used to have posted on my file cabinet to copy some day.  That lady died young, but had style.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz> wrote:

From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2005 22:10:23 +1300
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dylon dye

ah.. linen... well I wouldn't recommend cold dye then but would otherwise
recommend dylon.

I would double the amount of dye said to be needed, I find it gives a deeper
and richer effect.

In fact with the cold water dylon my recommendation is to use half a litre
of liquid and paint it on damp fabric with a broad paintdrush, leave it to
dry and then wash it out.

If the instructions say to use a bowl, then you have the cold water dye, and
I wouldn't recommend a washing machine. They do make dyes for the washing
machine though.

So my experiences:
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/phantom/blue.htm
Dylon multipurpose in a large stock pot on the stove, piece by piece. Making
sure I would do the whole bodice, then the drapery then the skirt so any
inconsistency in dyeing was not noticeable.
Cotton and polyester brocade. If I dyed it too many times, the polyester
went a funny colour, it absorbed the greens from the blue dye.

http://costumes.glittersweet.com/movies/poison.htm
Dylon Multipurpose on the stove. Good for acheiving a fade from one colour
to another just altering heat of dyebath and length of time in the bath.
nylon lycra, took the colour *very* well.

http://costumes.glittersweet.com/movies/ladym.htm
Dylon Multipurpose dye.
Good even coverage over a dark brown viscose. Navy blue turned the fabric a
dark licorice black.

http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/valois.htm
Dylon cold water dye. Silk just dipped and swished in a 40litre plastic
container to make the pale lilac of the inner sleeves.
2pots of dye with the right salts and mixed to just 500ml of water (two cups
or thereabouts) and painted on the silk to get the proper purple (that was
supposed to be got from the dye) on the farthingale.
I found I did not have the ability to aggitate the dye bath as much as it
was needed to to prevent blotchiness so painting was the best solution.

And just now:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/costume/1570fabrictest.jpg
one cold water dye in 1L of water with salts 5min bath and washed. This is
likely to be a rayon mix if not pure rayon.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/costume/1570fabricsa.jpg
the top is the colour of the linen originally, the bottom is the linen after
several dyebaths involving about 7 pots of dye for 5m of 150cm wide fabric
(about 5 yards of 60" wide fabric)

The change is subtle. And I suspect a multipurpose dyebath would be better
as it uses heat.

michaela
http://glittersweet.com



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Can anyone comment on these books and what is inside them? Are they good 
source material? I am considering purchasing them as general additions 
to my book collection, but I know nothing about them. I'm guessing that 
they are reprints of older titles.


* Ancient Greek, Roman and Byzantine Costume by Mary G. Houston. 
Softcover -Dover Publications 2003.

* Costume in Greek Classic Drama by Iris Brooke. Dover- 2003.


Would love to hear from someone who has copies.



Dawn


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] ancient Greek costume books
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2005 13:15:23 -0500
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Hi Dawn,

Stay away from Iris Brooke. Especially if you're not very familiar with the
period.

 As for the Mary Houston, I have a copy of the 2nd version (I think).  Do
you know if the Dover is a reprint of the 1931 version (106 pages b&w line
drawings) or  the 1947 version (182 pages, some of them pasted on colour
plates)?  Both of them are fairly reasonable, still have a couple of
victorianisms but very well done for the time.  If I remember properly this
is the 2nd book of a series where Medieval Costume in England and France is
the 3rd.

You might try your local library to see if they have copies of the
originals.  Of my local librararies, all but one have the iris brooke
(sigh), 5 of them have one or the other version and 4 of them have both.
But then again I live in the city with the highest number of post-secondary
educational institutions in North America, YMMV.

Cheers,

Joanna

PS You might find an original print (1st or 2nd edition) in a second hand
shop.

  
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Friday, March 04, 2005 12:31 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] ancient Greek costume books


Can anyone comment on these books and what is inside them? Are they good 
source material? I am considering purchasing them as general additions 
to my book collection, but I know nothing about them. I'm guessing that 
they are reprints of older titles.


* Ancient Greek, Roman and Byzantine Costume by Mary G. Houston. 
Softcover -Dover Publications 2003.

* Costume in Greek Classic Drama by Iris Brooke. Dover- 2003.


Would love to hear from someone who has copies.



Dawn


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Mar  4 14:07:59 2005
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 	Has anyone seen or heard anything about the Fashion and Style 
books by Althea MacKenzie and Richard Blakey on the Snowshill collection? 
They all have the description "...from Snowshill, one of the world's 
leading collections of costume and accessories of the 18th and 19th 
centuries."

 	According to Barnes and Noble they were all published in September 
2004 and the titles I see listed so far are
-Hats and Bonnets
-Embroideries
-Buttons and Trimmings
-Shoes and Slippers

 	Amazon has no real description of the contents and B&N has short 
blurbs for only the hats and shoes books.  The cover pictures are 
tempting.


annora
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I just received all of them.  They are rather small books of pictures 
with long captions, mostly pictures of details of clothing and 
accessories rather than entire garments.  Mostly women's clothes and 
accessories, a few men's particularly in the _Embroideries_ book.  
Mostly mid 18th to mid 19th centuries. The books are well produced..

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

lisa wrote:

>     Has anyone seen or heard anything about the Fashion and Style 
> books by Althea MacKenzie and Richard Blakey on the Snowshill 
> collection? They all have the description "...from Snowshill, one of 
> the world's leading collections of costume and accessories of the 18th 
> and 19th centuries."
>
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Funny you should mention Barry Lyndon, the spousal unit and I just watched it last week.  It is kind of like looking at a living picture from the 18th century.  Marisa Berenson (lady Lyndon), who is one of the transcendental beauties of the age looks so like period portraits from Gainsboro and others.  The big hair in several scencs is wonderful.  

I seem to remember, from when the movie originallyu came out that some of the dresses she wore  WERE ORIGINALS.  I can't verify this 30 some year old memory.  

After several years studying 18th century clothing and doing the living history/reenactor thing, the whole look of the film is right on target.  It  fits into my category of  "real thing", no matter what materials they used to make the garments


		
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I have generally found Iris Brooke very unreliable (my opinion). I don't 
use or own any of her books.

Houston has a good reputation.
         "An unabridged republication of the second edition of Ancient 
Greek, Roman and Byzantine Costume and Decoration published in 1947". 182p, 
315 b/w and col illus (Dover 2003) ISBN 0486426106. Paperback. Price US $12.95

I got one a couple of month's ago that was very good with documentation, 
images and such, but no diagrams. I've just skimmed through it. It's down 
in the library and I can get the biblio and more detail for you if you need it.

And one not yet published that might be of interest:
<http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm/ID/42566>The Clothed Body in the 
Ancient World edited by Liza Cleland, Mary Harlow and Lloyd Llewellyn-Jones
... highlighting common themes in scholarship, methodological differences 
between disciplines and periods, as well as contrasting definitions of what 
constitutes the clothed body. Essays discussing Aegean Bronze Age fashions, 
costume design in filmed biblical epics, clothing in Aristophanic comedy, 
Greek and Roman female undergarments, the symbolism of the Roman toga, and 
the spectacle of images of Byzantine dress, are just some of the diverse ...
Hardback. Not yet published - advance orders taken. Publisher's Price 
US$56.00, DBBC Price US$44.00

Hope this helps.
Beth

At 01:02 PM 3/4/2005, you wrote:
>Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2005 11:30:58 -0600
>From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
>Subject: [h-cost] ancient Greek costume books
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Message-ID: <42289B52.9040904@reddawn.net>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
>
>Can anyone comment on these books and what is inside them? Are they good
>source material? I am considering purchasing them as general additions
>to my book collection, but I know nothing about them. I'm guessing that
>they are reprints of older titles.
>
>
>* Ancient Greek, Roman and Byzantine Costume by Mary G. Houston.
>Softcover -Dover Publications 2003.
>
>* Costume in Greek Classic Drama by Iris Brooke. Dover- 2003.
>
>
>Would love to hear from someone who has copies.
>
>
>
>Dawn

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Greetings All!

You know those wonderful frilly beribboned Bed Jackets/Dressing Gowns that a lady would have eaten her breakfast in while still in her room?  Well, i am looking for some photos of one.  Does anyone have any suggestions of where I can find some?

I am also looking for men's dressing gowns/smoking jackets.  But think 1800's rather than 1900's.  You know something that Byronic Set would have worn while smoking opium or sitting in their own study in casual comfort.

Any and all help is appreciated!

Thanks in Advance,
Kit
If you walk a mile in someone else's shoes, do you get to keep them? - Kenneth Cole


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Subject: [h-cost] Sideless Surcoat
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Hi!!

I usually do Elizabethian, but an occasion has come up and I need to
make up a more early period dress. I was wondering if anyone could
recommend a good pattern for sideless surcoats and cotehardies.

Thanks!
Moon
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Mar  4 23:27:38 2005
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Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2005 20:24:48 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: BArry Lyndon
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>After several years studying 18th century clothing and doing the living 
>history/reenactor thing, the whole look of the film is right on target.

My recollection is that Barry Lyndon, as slow-moving as it was on screen, 
was just what the writers of those interminable old novels were trying to 
do.  the books would pan across the scenery for half a chapter, and the 
film did that too.  Much prettier on screen.  Otherwise, I avoid novels 
like that.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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On Friday 04 March 2005 2:07 pm, lisa wrote:
>   Has anyone seen or heard anything about the Fashion and Style
> books by Althea MacKenzie and Richard Blakey on the Snowshill collection?
> They all have the description "...from Snowshill, one of the world's
> leading collections of costume and accessories of the 18th and 19th
> centuries."
>
>   According to Barnes and Noble they were all published in September
> 2004 and the titles I see listed so far are
> -Hats and Bonnets
> -Embroideries
> -Buttons and Trimmings
> -Shoes and Slippers
>
>   Amazon has no real description of the contents and B&N has short
> blurbs for only the hats and shoes books.  The cover pictures are
> tempting.

They are being carried in a bookstore near me.  They are $19.95 USD apiece and 
fairly short (about 80 pp apiece I think) but they contain good color 
pictures and a fair number of them given the size, and good descriptive text.  
If they were about $5 apiece less I would have bought at least 2 of the set 
by now.  As things are, I'll probably wait a bit to buy them. 


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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Subject: [h-cost] linen and scarves
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I have just been viewing the new items to be found at the Dhama site and was impressed with the new scarves; and that they have hankie Linen now available with a 60/40 linen and cotton weave.The price is under $9 a yard.  Also a new cotton twill. The Devore scarves present several possibilities...

kathleen
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sideless Surcoat
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There is a web page for the cotehardie, just spent 10 minutes hunting through 
myfavorites and cant find it right nowbut if I am not mistaken one of the 
h-cost persons sent it to me.Was great with bth design for paper pattern or a 
drape and pin explaination.
I will check my computer at school to see if I hid it there. sorry not more 
help.theresa
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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I got two of the books as a pressent. One with embroidery and another with 
buttons and trimmings.
They are lovely lovely, and has pictures i never have seen before. Lots of 
inspirations to get.
Another friend emailed me with photos taken in Paris from an antique shop. 
Showing 4 wonderfull gentlemens wallets embroidered and for my period. 
Actually i could make the same embroidery as the suit and waistcoat and use 
it on a wallet two. So i have plans.............

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: BArry Lyndon
Date: Sat, 5 Mar 2005 16:02:08 +0100
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Hear hear,
I totally agree with you, also the very special mood troughout the whole 
film. I love the story tellers voice and language, soo beautifull..........
Ulla Britt Sřderlund, made some of the costumes for the movie. I have ben 
fortunate to talk to her once at a lecture where Janet Arnold was speaking. 
Stanley Kubric chose her for the costumes because he had seen the films 
about the imigrants from Sweden, dont recall what the series was called in 
english, wich she also made costumes for, because as he said, the costumes 
are clothes and not costumes........... wich was a very fine thing to say.
For Barry Lyndon she used original garments, wich was used for making new 
costumes. She also spended all her free time embroidering buttons for 
gentlemens coats. Many of the silks was boiled to get the pale colours and 
softness. I told her that i was in awe of her skills and that Barry Lyndon 
had given me such a kick, but the only thing she replyed was did you see the 
wings i made for the angel for (a swedish film i dont think you know). She 
was so proud of those angel wings, and i thoaght well well......... Very 
shorly after this, she died from canser only about 40 years old.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mia Dappert" <snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, March 04, 2005 9:05 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: BArry Lyndon


>
> Funny you should mention Barry Lyndon, the spousal unit and I just watched 
> it last week.  It is kind of like looking at a living picture from the 
> 18th century.  Marisa Berenson (lady Lyndon), who is one of the 
> transcendental beauties of the age looks so like period portraits from 
> Gainsboro and others.  The big hair in several scencs is wonderful.
>
> I seem to remember, from when the movie originallyu came out that some of 
> the dresses she wore  WERE ORIGINALS.  I can't verify this 30 some year 
> old memory.
>
> After several years studying 18th century clothing and doing the living 
> history/reenactor thing, the whole look of the film is right on target. 
> It  fits into my category of  "real thing", no matter what materials they 
> used to make the garments
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Celebrate Yahoo!'s 10th Birthday!
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Subject: [h-cost] Mahoitered Sleeves
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Sorry about this, but I seem to be having trouble finding the ones I have.  
I know I found a whole slew of colored portraits with them.  But in the meantime,
here is a response to my query when I was first investigating them.

As Karen says, it should get you started and in the mean time I will continue to look
for the ones I scanned.

Sg (who has taken this opportunity to recognize that she REALLY needs to back up all
her images on CD, before anything else gets lost!)

seamstrix@juno.com[63,13]CSuX: anyone seen portraits with sleeves like these?
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyone seen portraits with sleeves like these?
From: seamstrix@juno.com
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 16:16:43 -0600
The term I am familiar with for those sleeves is 'mahoitered' and they
are fairly common on English, Spanish, and French fashions of the 1560's
and 70's. 

I don't have any online sources to hand but here are some literary
references-

"Elizabethan Pagentry" by H.K. Morse

Page 23: Portait of a Lady by Antonio Moro
Page 27: Young Woman 1564 by Lucas Cranach the Younger

Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd by Janet Arnold

Page 7: #6 Queen Elizabeth receiving the Dutch Ambassadors (1570-75)
                   the ladies sitting on the floor to the right of the
painting all seem
                   to have mahoitered sleeves.
Page 55: #93 Unknown Lady Aged 29 (1557) by Hans Eworth
Page 133: #211 Pierre de Moucheron and Wife- detail (1563)
Page 134: #212 Lady Anne Penruddocke Aged 20 (1557) by Hans Eworth 
Page 139: #222 Lady Aged 30, Called Queen Elizabeth (1563) Anonymous
Page 140: #224 Margaret of Parma (1562) by Antonio Mor
Page 154: #243 Queen E and the # Goddesses-detail (1569) by HE


That should get you started! 8-)


Karen




>
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Theresathreadgi@aol.com wrote:

> There is a web page for the cotehardie, just spent 10 minutes hunting through 
> myfavorites and cant find it right nowbut if I am not mistaken one of the 
> h-cost persons sent it to me.Was great with bth design for paper pattern or a 
> drape and pin explaination.

The Cotehardie and Houpelande page is here now:
http://www.theweebsite.com/cotelande/index.html


This is also a good page for pictures: 
http://www.geocities.com/ariedin/index.html




Dawn


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Sat, 05 Mar 2005 15:47:13 +0000
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Subject: [h-cost] holy grail window was Sideless Surcoat
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The link below has a lovely picture!  But when I clicked on it to see if it could be enlarged for details, a *you dirty knave trying to steal the holy grail* window pops up.

Goodness!  I presume it's supposed to be funny....I guess my funny bone is not calibrated right...

Coffee, I need coffee...

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> Theresathreadgi@aol.com wrote: 
> 
> The Cotehardie and Houpelande page is here now: 
> http://www.theweebsite.com/cotelande/index.html 
> 
> 
> This is also a good page for pictures: 
> http://www.geocities.com/ariedin/index.html 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dawn 
> 
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Subject: [h-cost] Ombre silk fabric
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Does anyone know where to buy ombre silk fabric online?  I found a 
little on the Thai silks site but not what I wanted.

Thanks for any info.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sideless Surcoat
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On Sat, 5 Mar 2005, Dawn wrote:

> Theresathreadgi@aol.com wrote:
> 
> > There is a web page for the cotehardie, just spent 10 minutes hunting
> > through myfavorites and cant find it right nowbut if I am not
> > mistaken one of the h-cost persons sent it to me.Was great with bth
> > design for paper pattern or a drape and pin explaination.
> 
> The Cotehardie and Houpelande page is here now:
> http://www.theweebsite.com/cotelande/index.html

The above page might answer the needs of the original poster, depending on
what she's looking for, but it's important to note that it relies mostly
on outdated popular costume books and is not very historically accurate. I
also don't see construction directions on that page, so it probably is not
what Theresa was remembering.

For instructions on drape-and-pin, most people point to Tasha McGann's
page:

http://www.cottesimple.com/index.html

Tasha developed her method in part based on my work. You'll find my
written comments at:

http://www.netherton.net/robin

I don't have directions there and never will, as I don't think this method
can be taught on paper. However, I do have a handout I use for workshops,
and a collection of posts that will provide useful background and tips for
someone wanting to take a non-patterned approach. Experienced costumers
who have an understanding of the desired look and basic methods have been
able to use those to replicate my method.

The original poster, I think, asked for patterns. I don't use them and so
can't recommend any. Perhaps someone else can. There are a number of
patterns out there for both fitted underdresses and sideless surcotes that
will produce an acceptable "look" for general SCA wear and for other
costuming purposes, though I would consider all of them to be modern in
approach. I would not recommend using patterns for historical costume
competition or authentic re-enactment, but I don't gather that's what the
original poster was aiming for.

--Robin

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sideless Surcoat
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At 10:30 05/03/2005 -0600, you wrote:

>On Sat, 5 Mar 2005, Dawn wrote:
>
> > Theresathreadgi@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > > There is a web page for the cotehardie, just spent 10 minutes hunting
> > > through myfavorites and cant find it right nowbut if I am not
> > > mistaken one of the h-cost persons sent it to me.Was great with bth
> > > design for paper pattern or a drape and pin explaination.
> >
> > The Cotehardie and Houpelande page is here now:
> > http://www.theweebsite.com/cotelande/index.html
>
>The above page might answer the needs of the original poster, depending on
>what she's looking for, but it's important to note that it relies mostly
>on outdated popular costume books and is not very historically accurate. I
>also don't see construction directions on that page, so it probably is not
>what Theresa was remembering.
>
>For instructions on drape-and-pin, most people point to Tasha McGann's
>page:
>
>http://www.cottesimple.com/index.html
>
>Tasha developed her method in part based on my work. You'll find my
>written comments at:
>
>http://www.netherton.net/robin
>
>
>
>The original poster, I think, asked for patterns. I don't use them and so
>can't recommend any. Perhaps someone else can. There are a number of
>patterns out there for both fitted underdresses and sideless surcotes that
>will produce an acceptable "look" for general SCA wear and for other
>costuming purposes, though I would consider all of them to be modern in
>approach. I would not recommend using patterns for historical costume
>competition or authentic re-enactment, but I don't gather that's what the
>original poster was aiming for.



Jean Hunnisett's book "Period Costume for Stage and Screen Medieval to 
1500" published by Players Press has patterns for sideless surcoats, one 
based on the Luttrell Psalter. Don't be put off by the title - Jean's 
research was thorough, and her patterns based on original paintings, 
sculpture and so on.

Suzi


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Subject: [h-cost] typo on page was: holy grail window was Sideless Surcoat
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Hello,
If anyone knows the owner of this web site there is a typo on this 
page...
http://www.theweebsite.com/cotelande/index.html

I don't think Charles died in 1634.

Althea


On Saturday, March 5, 2005, at 07:47 AM, Elena O'Tighearnaigh wrote:

> The link below has a lovely picture!  But when I clicked on it to see 
> if it could be enlarged for details, a *you dirty knave trying to 
> steal the holy grail* window pops up.
>
> Goodness!  I presume it's supposed to be funny....I guess my funny 
> bone is not calibrated right...
>
> Coffee, I need coffee...
>
> --
> Slan go foill
> Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri
>
> Emer's Needle Wares
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
>> Theresathreadgi@aol.com wrote:
>>
>> The Cotehardie and Houpelande page is here now:
>> http://www.theweebsite.com/cotelande/index.html
>>
>>
>> This is also a good page for pictures:
>> http://www.geocities.com/ariedin/index.html
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Dawn
>>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

I think, therefore I'm dangerous.

I'll be Post-Feminist in a Post-Patriarchy


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Not sure why this isn't reaching the list, but here it is again.
Sg

Wicked Frau wrote:

> Here is a link to some mockups on various types of Mahoitered 
> sleeves.  Sorry the images aren't so hot.  Most of them I accidentally 
> saved at a very worthless low resolution.  
> http://saragrace.net/images/Misc/mahoiteredsleeves.htm
>
>
>
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In response to an old thread ( I have been out of comission for a while) you CAN get rolls of 1/2 inch grid paper-the rolls are about 3 feet wide and are about 200 ft long.  each roll is 26$ dollars plus whatever shippiing is to whereever you are.  I order mine from a company called Nasco, their web site is 
www.enasco.com and the item number is 9712672.  Their catalog is a pain if you do not have the item number.  

hope this is not to late to be helpful. 

jordana


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I'm looking at a office supply catalog k-log.com and I'm looking at the ergo adjust workstation that has a dual crank for changing the 'keyboard' part of the split table.  The thing I noticed is that it's just a split table, so the keyboard part has a really sturdy support system.   It can go up so you can stand at it or low enough to sit comfortably.

I was thinking how nice to use this to raise my sewing machine up and down as needed.  And thinking how nice it would be to have two, to have an ironing platform right next to me at whatever level I want it. And table space behind both!

Then there's the Pneumatic table with the 60x 30 table top that can go 20"-30".  I'm thinking cutting table..



Sigh.  



--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares
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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re[h-cost] Re: Mahoitered Sleeves/ Thanks for the explanination &
	photo
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OK...the red sleeve shows this sleeve type really
well, they kinda remind me of the Phillipino ladies
sleeves on their fancy dresses(remember Imelad
Marcos?)I have no idea how they keep THEM up either.
I was cruising "Margospatterns" site yesterday and she
has a comfort gown with Mshoitered sleeves. I was
kinda sure I knew what they were after that,as the
other gown pictured said roll top sleeve(the sausage
roll thing)
Thanks  to ALL for the help....
Melody
--- Wicked Frau <wickedfrau@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Not sure why this isn't reaching the list, but here
> it is again.
> Sg
> 
> Wicked Frau wrote:
> 
> > Here is a link to some mockups on various types of
> Mahoitered 
> > sleeves.  Sorry the images aren't so hot.  Most of
> them I accidentally 
> > saved at a very worthless low resolution.  
> >
>
http://saragrace.net/images/Misc/mahoiteredsleeves.htm
> >
> >
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


	
		
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Hello,
Can anyone give me the general shape of and type of
material a Ventian ladies chemise would be.
 Particularily I need to know the shape of the
neckline,(was it pleated into a bead) decorated at
all?
Sleeves - regular length or longer to pull thru sleeve
slashes?
Cuffs - banded  ,with rufles or not.  Is black work
seen in this period,or not on Italian clothes.Lace ?
I usually do Elizabethean peasant type clothes but
decided to "move on up", only the dress I had looked
more Italian then English. SO, I figured "why fight
it, the dress WANTS to be Italian" But my under wear
want to remain english ,SO I need help.
 Under the skirts, was a hoop or fathingale or
crinoline worn to add "poof" to the skirts?
 To see a close look alike to my dress, go to the
realm of Venus web site and look at  he painting of
the Fasolo family (1560 page), same color & almost
pattern,
weird thing is I kinda look like the lady in the
painting,cept I have red hair.
Any info & help would be great
Thanks,,,, Melody


	
		
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Gosh guys, have I stumbled across something new here?  It looks like 
Bildindex is starting to include artwork from all over?  I have been 
typing in various artist names in artcyclopedia.com and almost without 
fail Bildindex shows up (down at the bottom ususually), then when I 
click on it, it takes me to Bildindex and there are a collection of the 
artists paintings from all over???  The Prado, Uffzi etc.  Wahoooooo!
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Subject: [h-cost] "vintage" patterns
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I thought I sent this last night, but it did not seem to show up.  If anyone does want them, please email me by tonight as I would like to have husband drop package off at postoffice tomorrow during his lunch break.


I found about 6 vintage(70s) patterns in an old swewing machine that i acquired (it was on the side of the road/waiting for garbage truck-machine is from the 40s in a great/neato cabanet) -this was back in summer before i had been basicly incompacitaded by varius problems.  I had offered these patterns to whoever wanted them, and had a taker, but have since lost the email.  The patterns do smell a little and make me snnize, so-if you are allergic to mold, don't say you want them!  also, i have not looked in the envolopes, so i have no idea abouot the state of them. 

If whoever said they wanted them says "ME", they get first dibs!

Thanks, Jordana

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Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2005 12:30:07 -0500
From: "A. Thurman" <athurman@gmail.com>
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Not costume related, but definitely historical:

I'm looking to purchase this book and I'm discovering that there are
two editions: one from 1992 and another from 1999 (ISBNs 0866980865
and  1-889818-15-1, respectively).

Can anyone tell me if there are any substantial improvements in the
newer edition? Price is an issue, and while I can find the 1992
edition used (and about $10 cheaper), I can only get the 1999 new.
Please advise,

Thanks in advance,

Allison T.
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly OT: English Handwriting 1400-1650
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On Sun, 6 Mar 2005, A. Thurman wrote:

> I'm looking to purchase this book and I'm discovering that there are
> two editions: one from 1992 and another from 1999 (ISBNs 0866980865
> and 1-889818-15-1, respectively).
> 
> Can anyone tell me if there are any substantial improvements in the
> newer edition?

I know nothing about the 1999 edition, but I have a copy of the 1992. If
someone else has the 1999, I'll be happy to compare a description off-list
(e.g. no. of pages, illustrations, etc.)

It looks like a really good book, though as it turns out I didn't use it
much because I stopped pursuing handwriting study at about the time I
bought it. I would also recommend Parkes' _English Cursive Book Hands
1250-1500_ and Hector's _The Handwriting of English Documents_ if you're
into studying cursives, as I was.

--Robin

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On Sun, 6 Mar 2005 12:01:53 -0700 (MST), h-costume-request@indra.com
<h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:

> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 12
> Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2005 12:09:59 -0600 (CST)
> From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly OT: English Handwriting 1400-1650
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
>        <Pine.LNX.4.10.10503061204160.15635-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
> Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
> 
> On Sun, 6 Mar 2005, A. Thurman wrote:
> 
> > I'm looking to purchase this book and I'm discovering that there are
> > two editions: one from 1992 and another from 1999 (ISBNs 0866980865
> > and 1-889818-15-1, respectively).
> >
> > Can anyone tell me if there are any substantial improvements in the
> > newer edition?
> 
> I know nothing about the 1999 edition, but I have a copy of the 1992. If
> someone else has the 1999, I'll be happy to compare a description off-list
> (e.g. no. of pages, illustrations, etc.)
> 
> It looks like a really good book, though as it turns out I didn't use it
> much because I stopped pursuing handwriting study at about the time I
> bought it. I would also recommend Parkes' _English Cursive Book Hands
> 1250-1500_ and Hector's _The Handwriting of English Documents_ if you're
> into studying cursives, as I was.

I'm mostly trying to figure out how to decipher the "secretary"
alphabet/script used on so many formal documents. Drea Leed
recommended this book to me, but if one edition has more examples or
clearer illustrations than the other, I'd like to know before I
purchase.
> 
> --Robin
> 
Allison T.
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From: "A. Thurman" <athurman@gmail.com>
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Cc: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Slightly OT: English Handwriting 1400-1650
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On Sun, 6 Mar 2005 12:01:53 -0700 (MST), h-costume-request@indra.com
<h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:

> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 12
> Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2005 12:09:59 -0600 (CST)
> From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly OT: English Handwriting 1400-1650
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
>        <Pine.LNX.4.10.10503061204160.15635-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
> Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
> 
> On Sun, 6 Mar 2005, A. Thurman wrote:
> 
> > I'm looking to purchase this book and I'm discovering that there are
> > two editions: one from 1992 and another from 1999 (ISBNs 0866980865
> > and 1-889818-15-1, respectively).
> >
> > Can anyone tell me if there are any substantial improvements in the
> > newer edition?
> 
> I know nothing about the 1999 edition, but I have a copy of the 1992. If
> someone else has the 1999, I'll be happy to compare a description off-list
> (e.g. no. of pages, illustrations, etc.)
> 
> It looks like a really good book, though as it turns out I didn't use it
> much because I stopped pursuing handwriting study at about the time I
> bought it. I would also recommend Parkes' _English Cursive Book Hands
> 1250-1500_ and Hector's _The Handwriting of English Documents_ if you're
> into studying cursives, as I was.

I'm mostly trying to figure out how to decipher the "secretary"
alphabet/script used on so many formal documents. Drea Leed
recommended this book to me, but if one edition has more examples or
clearer illustrations than the other, I'd like to know before I
purchase.
> 
> --Robin
> 
Allison T.
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Subject: [h-cost] New York City Public Library
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The New York City Public Library has put some interesting images up on its  
website, and many of them relate to costume of various periods. I thought I'd  
pass the link along in case you haven't found this already.
 
_http://digitalgallery.nypl.org/nypldigital/index.cfm_ 
(http://digitalgallery.nypl.org/nypldigital/index.cfm) 


--- Tea Rose, surfer extraordinaire and amateur  lurker
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Slightly OT: English Handwriting 1400-1650
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At 02:17 PM 3/6/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>On Sun, 6 Mar 2005 12:01:53 -0700 (MST), h-costume-request@indra.com
><h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:
> > Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2005 12:09:59 -0600 (CST)
> > From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly OT: English Handwriting 1400-1650
>
> > On Sun, 6 Mar 2005, A. Thurman wrote:
> >
> > > I'm looking to purchase this book and I'm discovering that there are
> > > two editions: one from 1992 and another from 1999 (ISBNs 0866980865
> > > and 1-889818-15-1, respectively).
> > >
> > > Can anyone tell me if there are any substantial improvements in the
> > > newer edition?
> >
> > I know nothing about the 1999 edition, but I have a copy of the 1992. If
> > someone else has the 1999, I'll be happy to compare a description off-list
> > (e.g. no. of pages, illustrations, etc.)
> >
> > It looks like a really good book, though as it turns out I didn't use it
> > much because I stopped pursuing handwriting study at about the time I
> > bought it. I would also recommend Parkes' _English Cursive Book Hands
> > 1250-1500_ and Hector's _The Handwriting of English Documents_ if you're
> > into studying cursives, as I was.
>
>I'm mostly trying to figure out how to decipher the "secretary"
>alphabet/script used on so many formal documents. Drea Leed
>recommended this book to me, but if one edition has more examples or
>clearer illustrations than the other, I'd like to know before I
>purchase.
> >
> > --Robin
> >
>Allison T.

I have a copy of "Elizabethan Handwriting 1500-1650: A Manual" by Giles 
Dawson and Laetitia Kennedy-Skipton of the Folger Shakespeare Library, 1966 
(no ISBN).  I used it when I transcribed a will from 1590 (I received a 
photocopy of the manuscript from the public record from a kind English 
friend).  I'm not familiar with the other English handwriting books, but 
can testify that this one is very good. I was able to find a copy a few 
years ago on the used book market for $25 + tax and shipping.  One of my 
best bargains.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian or Regency Boudoir Clothing
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At 18:19 04/03/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>Greetings All!
>
>You know those wonderful frilly beribboned Bed Jackets/Dressing Gowns that 
>a lady would have eaten her breakfast in while still in her room?  Well, i 
>am looking for some photos of one.  Does anyone have any suggestions of 
>where I can find some?
>
>I am also looking for men's dressing gowns/smoking jackets.  But think 
>1800's rather than 1900's.  You know something that Byronic Set would have 
>worn while smoking opium or sitting in their own study in casual comfort.
>
>Any and all help is appreciated!
>
>Thanks in Advance,
>Kit
>If you walk a mile in someone else's shoes, do you get to keep them? - 
>Kenneth Cole


There are some quilted early 19th century dressing gown/banyans in the V 
and A. I have pictures in a "Costume" journal, but as I have 27 of these it 
may take a while to find them.

Suzi


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At 18:19 04/03/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>Greetings All!
>
>You know those wonderful frilly beribboned Bed Jackets/Dressing Gowns that 
>a lady would have eaten her breakfast in while still in her room?  Well, i 
>am looking for some photos of one.  Does anyone have any suggestions of 
>where I can find some?
>
>I am also looking for men's dressing gowns/smoking jackets.  But think 
>1800's rather than 1900's.  You know something that Byronic Set would have 
>worn while smoking opium or sitting in their own study in casual comfort.
>
>Any and all help is appreciated!
>
>Thanks in Advance,
>Kit
>If you walk a mile in someone else's shoes, do you get to keep them? - 
>Kenneth Cole


Try here - a better source than me.

Suzi

http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/BANYAN.HTM


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  I stumbled across this link this evening through artcyclopedia and 
just had to share it.  It has a number of paintings I have never seen 
before.  Until I pulled up the self portrait, I did not realize the 
artist is a woman!  Gotta love these kid scenes. 
<http://tinyurl.com/4pvum>
After having looked at several more Italian Artists, I am beginning to 
think that Bildindex is either being sloppy or is confused.  I've seen 
several of the same paintings under several different artists. 


http://www.bildindex.de/rx/apsisa.dll/registerinhalt?sid=&cnt=&rid=2&aid=*&query=+xdbpics%3Aalle%20+r1a_name%3A'A*'%20%20+r1a_name%3A%22
anguissola,%20sofonisba%22&no=1&count=50&sort=no&rid=2

Sorry about the horribly long url, but H-cost no longer takes TinyUrl!  
Darn!
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On Sun, 6 Mar 2005, Wicked Frau wrote:

> ...
> <http://tinyurl.com/4pvum>
> ... 
> http://www.bildindex.de/rx/apsisa.dll/registerinhalt?sid=&cnt=&rid=2&aid=*&query=+xdbpics%3Aalle%20+r1a_name%3A'A*'%20%20+r1a_name%3A%22
> anguissola,%20sofonisba%22&no=1&count=50&sort=no&rid=2
> 
> Sorry about the horribly long url, but H-cost no longer takes TinyUrl!  

The tinyurl version worked for me. What do you mean about h-cost no longer
"taking" it?

I love her self-portrait. The eyes!

--Robin

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Hi. I, too, only have the '92 edition (got it at the Folger, still has 
the receipt in it). On the handwriting subject, another good book is 
"The Handwriting of the Renaissance" by Samuel A. Tannenbaum 1930 
Columbia University Press. Don't know if it has ever been reprinted, but 
you can sometimes find copies online. Cheers, Mike T.


>  
>
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In a message dated 3/3/2005 10:10:17 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
ewalpole@iimetro.com.au writes:

I got  the impression it was more sort of heart shaped with the padding 
concentrated  over the hips (to the side) and little to no padding at the  back.



This sorta Pannier pad that you describe here would work to about 1780s but  
if I remember correctly you were talking about a mid to late 1780s  
silhouette....so the padding at the back is right.
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How silly of me.  I meant to delete the TinyUrl before I sent it.  I 
would not have expected it to pass with it.  They have been bouncing for 
me lately.  But I am glad to see that at least they sometimes work!

Robin Netherton wrote:

>On Sun, 6 Mar 2005, Wicked Frau wrote:
>
>  
>
>>Sorry about the horribly long url, but H-cost no longer takes TinyUrl!  
>>    
>>
>
>
>
>
>  
>
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Hi Melody, I just replied to your personal email - how weird to find
you have also posted here! :-)

> Can anyone give me the general shape of and type of
> material a Ventian ladies chemise would be.

Most likely linen - the finer the better for a noblewoman. As for
general shape, I'm afraid we don't have an extant camicie that has been
proven to be Venetian, but I have a little about several extant Italian
camcie, and list them starting here...

<http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/wardrobe/extcam1.htm> You'll
find a link to subsequent pages at the bottom of each page.



>  Particularily I need to know the shape of the
> neckline,(was it pleated into a bead) decorated at
> all?

Yes, often pleated to a band, with neckline "frills" often. Sometimes
decorated with monochrome embroidery in black or red (less common),
often trimmed with lace as the pic of extant camicie above will show.


> Sleeves - regular length or longer to pull thru sleeve
> slashes?

You'll find different opinions, but mine is that yes, sometimes they
were longer to pull through sleeve slashes and fill poufs.


> Cuffs - banded  ,with rufles or not.


I've only seen uncuffed, loose camicie sleeve ends in Venice, although
most of the extant Italian camicie have cuffs of some sort. See
Venetian examples here:
<http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/wardrobe/camportrait.htm>


>  Is black work
> seen in this period,or not on Italian clothes.Lace ?

See my answer regarding decoration, above.


>  Under the skirts, was a hoop or fathingale or
> crinoline worn to add "poof" to the skirts?


Not as far as I know, although roped petticoats/underskirts are a
definite possibility.


Hope this has helped,



=====
Donna Bella Lucia da Verona - Innilgard, Lochac
ŠAny intellectual material in this message is copyright Anabella Wake (Bella Lucia da Verona)
 ***The MARCH Italian Showcase is now online!*** http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/yourgarb/showcase.htm

Find local movie times and trailers on Yahoo! Movies.
http://au.movies.yahoo.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] dylon dye
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Washing machine will work fine, but if you need to use a lot of water, 
you'll also need to use a lot of dye for it to be concentrated enough to 
work well, unless you have one of those cool European machines. Also, you'll 
need to be really careful that the machine doesn't empty itself before it's 
soaked long enough to take in the dye.

Dylon will not run the way RIT does. It will run the first few washes, but 
after that, in my experience, it's pretty steady.

Good luck! 
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Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2005 21:02:49 -0800 (PST)
From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1560's  Venitian chemise
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 Yes That's me, I discovered H-cost. list and am in
heaven, I just read my personal email and between the
two posts you've helped Enormously!
 Now to take all this info and make it look like the
painting, by April,I just might have a chance.
Thanks again.! 
Hope all is  better now at home....been there.
Sending good thoughts your wway.....
 Melody

--- Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au> wrote:
> Hi Melody, I just replied to your personal email -
> how weird to find you have also posted here! :-)
> ***** SNIP*****
>> 
> Hope this has helped,
> Donna Bella Lucia da Verona - Innilgard, Lochac

> ŠAny intellectual material in this message is
> copyright Anabella Wake (Bella Lucia da Verona)
>  ***The MARCH Italian Showcase is now online!***
> 


	
		
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Date: Mon, 07 Mar 2005 04:18:34 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Had to share
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At 03:58 PM 3/6/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>  I stumbled across this link this evening through artcyclopedia and just 
> had to share it.  It has a number of paintings I have never seen 
> before.  Until I pulled up the self portrait, I did not realize the 
> artist is a woman!  Gotta love these kid scenes. <http://tinyurl.com/4pvum>
>After having looked at several more Italian Artists, I am beginning to 
>think that Bildindex is either being sloppy or is confused.  I've seen 
>several of the same paintings under several different artists.
>
>http://www.bildindex.de/rx/apsisa.dll/registerinhalt?sid=&cnt=&rid=2&aid=*&query=+xdbpics%3Aalle%20+r1a_name%3A'A*'%20%20+r1a_name%3A%22
>anguissola,%20sofonisba%22&no=1&count=50&sort=no&rid=2
>
>Sorry about the horribly long url, but H-cost no longer takes TinyUrl!
>Darn!


Greetings,

The tinyurl worked for me.  I love Sofonisba Anguissola's work and am 
surprised to see a couple of paintings I have never seen before (in 
particular the gold plaid gown ones).    Are those by any chance the ones 
that are showing up under other artist's names?

Cheers,
Danielle

Instructor on http://www.costumeclassroom.com
Check out my 16th Century English Clothing in Textual Sources class
Check out my Regency Fashion Plates in textual sources class 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] fabric to sell
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Status: RO

Greetings all...

Excuse this one announcement...I will be listing a bunch of fabric for sale 
on the Swap & Sell yahoo groups.  I should have it up tomorrow with 
photos.  It is primarily silks with a bit of wool so feel free to email me 
if you are interested.  If you aren't a member of the swap & sell group and 
wish to join, please make sure you mention the fact that you are an 
H-Costume member in your membership request.

Cheers,
Danielle
Instructor on http://www.costumeclassroom.com
Check out my 16th Century English Clothing in Textual Sources class
Check out my Regency Fashion Plates in textual sources class 

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No, actually it is the fellow in the cape and a few of the women playing 
piano....hmmm.

Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:

> Greetings,
>
> The tinyurl worked for me.  I love Sofonisba Anguissola's work and am 
> surprised to see a couple of paintings I have never seen before (in 
> particular the gold plaid gown ones).    Are those by any chance the 
> ones that are showing up under other artist's names?
>
> Cheers,
> Danielle
>
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I take it back!  I just ran across it in a google image search for Sofonisba
at http://www.rccr.cremona.it/anguissola/sofonisba.htm

Unfortunately I don't read Italian.  I'm also seeing some other things (via
google) that I'm not sure if I've seen before either.

Jerusha

-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Botany Department, University of Tennessee
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium

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From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re[h-cost] Re: Mahoitered Sleeves/ Thanks for the explanination &
	photo
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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When I lived in the Philippines, I seem to recall that
a lot of the fancy sleeves you are describing were of
a very stiff cloth--I believe the pineapple cloth -
and lots and LOTS of embroidery.  There's now a bridal
designer from Manila using a lot of their techniques
for unique bridal gowns--I'll have to see if I can
find his card, the website had a few shots that are
worth looking at!

Unfortunately for me, I outgrew all of the clothes
from there, and they are all gone. *sigh*

But my goddaughter's maternal family is from there, so
maybe I can start coaxing/bribing for new ones in my
adult size!

Angharat/ wolfcat
--- Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com> wrote:
> OK...the red sleeve shows this sleeve type really
> well, they kinda remind me of the Phillipino ladies
> sleeves on their fancy dresses(remember Imelad
> Marcos?)I have no idea how they keep THEM up either.



	
		
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Could the plaid paintings be copies that have been changed?  The link
Jerusha sent shows the same painting of the artist's mother but I could
swear the bodice looks like it has either been slashed or tucked.  Anne

At 03:58 PM 3/6/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>  I stumbled across this link this evening through artcyclopedia and just 
> had to share it.  It has a number of paintings I have never seen 
> before.  Until I pulled up the self portrait, I did not realize the 
> artist is a woman!  Gotta love these kid scenes.
<http://tinyurl.com/4pvum>
>After having looked at several more Italian Artists, I am beginning to 
>think that Bildindex is either being sloppy or is confused.  I've seen 
>several of the same paintings under several different artists.
>
Greetings,

The tinyurl worked for me.  I love Sofonisba Anguissola's work and am 
surprised to see a couple of paintings I have never seen before (in 
particular the gold plaid gown ones).    Are those by any chance the ones 
that are showing up under other artist's names?

Cheers,
Danielle



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When tinyurl first came out, I used it for a little while, then quit because 
the links only worked about 1/2 the time.  Its batting average seems to have 
improved, but I expect the same info storage/programming/whatever problem 
still exists.

These two sites do the same thing, however, and have worked every time for 
me:
http://snipurl.com and the ironically long-addressed
http://www.makeashorterlink.com/

-E House


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From: "Sidne Kneeland" <skskaw@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: Sofonisba Anguissola (was Re: [h-cost] Had to share)
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Greetings,

I get a fair translation, a bit choppy, but readable, putting in paragraphs 
at a time with Babel Fish:
http://babelfish.altavista.com/

I did not get the translate the whole site thing to work.

SKneeland

>I take it back!  I just ran across it in a google image search for 
>Sofonisba
> at http://www.rccr.cremona.it/anguissola/sofonisba.htm
>
> Unfortunately I don't read Italian.  I'm also seeing some other things 
> (via
> google) that I'm not sure if I've seen before either.
>



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Hi, I'm urgently trying to find a cheaper way to get a costuming book 
from US to Australia - so far the quote is $12 US for sea mail and $25 
US for airmail. Is there a cheaper option? I don't want to go seamail 
or it'll be months before I see the book.
Thanks, Aylwen

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> Hi, I'm urgently trying to find a cheaper way to get a costuming book
> from US to Australia - so far the quote is $12 US for sea mail and $25
> US for airmail. Is there a cheaper option? I don't want to go seamail
> or it'll be months before I see the book.
> Thanks, Aylwen

Depending on the size of the book, you might use one of those "flat-rate" 
express/priority mail envelopes (the "cardboard" ones).  I shipped several 
books in them to Europe because they would fit in the envelope.

Jerusha

-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Botany Department, University of Tennessee
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium

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Aylwen wrote:
> Hi, I'm urgently trying to find a cheaper way to get a costuming book from 
> US to Australia - so far the quote is $12 US for sea mail and $25 US for 
> airmail. Is there a cheaper option? I don't want to go seamail or it'll be 
> months before I see the book.
> Thanks, Aylwen
>

The link below will take you to the USPS rates for Australia.  If your book 
weighs less than four pounds and can fit in the large global priority mail 
flat rate envelope, it can be shipped for $9US and get to you in 4-6 days. 
A small book might fit in the smaller envelope and ship for $5US.  Cheaper 
and faster than what you've been quoted so far, but this would require 
someone to ship this way for you.  Many businesses do not because they have 
contracts with other shippers.  I have used GPM successfully to Europe and 
Asia, so if you can swing it, try it.  Truly cheap rates are under economy 
mail book rates and letter-post rates, but I don't know what the delivery 
time is.  GPM guarantees 4-6 days, and is occasionally faster.
Good luck,
                  -Helen/Aidan
http://pe.usps.gov/text/imm/immicl/immiclab_012.html 


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Errr which group is this on Yahoo specifically?

Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:

> Greetings all...
>
> Excuse this one announcement...I will be listing a bunch of fabric for 
> sale on the Swap & Sell yahoo groups.  I should have it up tomorrow 
> with photos.  It is primarily silks with a bit of wool so feel free to 
> email me if you are interested.  If you aren't a member of the swap & 
> sell group and wish to join, please make sure you mention the fact 
> that you are an H-Costume member in your membership request.
>
> Cheers,
> Danielle
>
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On Mon, 7 Mar 2005, Wicked Frau wrote:

> Errr which group is this on Yahoo specifically?

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/swapsell/

We also have another:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/costumetrader/

Maybe these should be merged...

--Robin

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