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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Use of fur on sideless gowns
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> I will have fun making this gown...
>
> Becky

Becky,

One word of advice....

...don't use red velveteen.  Once, many years ago, I made a tunic out of
red velveteen with bell sleeves lined in white rabbit fur.  I also put
rabbit fur around the neck.  It quickly earned me the nickname "Mrs.
Claus" and I couldn't bear to wear it any more!!

Wish I had a picture to share because now I think that it is *too* funny!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Date: Sun, 1 May 2005 11:49:19 +0100 (BST)
From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Trim - prefabricated braid frogging - help?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:At 23:00 30/04/2005 +0100, you wrote:
>Suugestions for suppliers of "prefabricated braid frogging closures" would 
>be very welcome.

SNIP
Kleins - haberdashery and craft supplies
Barnett Lawson - huge range of braids, ribbons, buttons, feathers and trimmings
Little Trimmings - small scale trimmings and lace, and a very helpful lady

All the above have links on my web pages together with other suppliers of 
fabrics etc. Kleins and Barnett Lawson would be my first choices - Little 
Trimmings is probably more suitable for toys and dolls.

REPLY
Yes, that's exactly what I'm looking-for,  - TYVM for your prompt response, and the Links therein.






Yours in service, 
Julian Wilson,
[aka. Messire Matthew Baker/Matthieu Besquer, Governor & Castellan of Jersey, 1486-1497: - "Si vis pacem, para bellum"]
late-medieval Re-enactor; & Historian and Master Artisan to  
"The Companie of the Duke's Leopards",
[the only medieval living-history Group
in "olde" Jersey]
Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com 
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Date: Sun, 1 May 2005 10:09:25 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] removing grease on clothes
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> I would have thought that removing the kind of auto-lubricating 
> grease mentioned by a previous Lister, - would require lots of 
> highly-distilled denatured alcohol, or a very-refined White Spirit 
> or lots of Carbon Tetrachloride; - basically because - as I see that 
> problem, - the only remedy is to keep-on "flushing" the grease 
> stain,-  and blotting-up the emulsified/disolved grease must 
> continue until the cleansing agent is coming-away clean.
> Maybe a Lister who has had experience in the "Dry Cleaning" Trade 
> could add some comment?  

I know perchloroethelene (aka "perk", and I'm not guaranteeing the
spelling from memory) is used both as a dry cleaning solvent and as an
industrial de-greaser.  However, at least in the US, you won't be able to
buy some for home use.  Government regulations, you know -- breathing in
too much of the fumes will make you sick, and based on one animal test
that AFAIK no one else has been able to reproduce it's on the "possible
carcinogen" list.  Besides, it's expensive.  I've never worked anywhere
that used petroleum solvent or the new liquid CO2 method; if the news
articles on CO2 are accurate there's no way you're doing _that_ at home
due to the high pressures needed to keep it liquid.  I don't know if you
could get some petroleum solvent to take home or not.

I never did a lot of the dry cleaning, and now that I've been transferred
to one of the drop-off locations I'm not doing any.  Based on memory, I
don't recall the plant manager having to do much pre-spotting on grease
stains.  The solvent and tumbling in the drum (think oversized
front-loader washer) did the work for her.

I know among the chemicals on the spotting board were some that would
take out any remaining grease stains.  When using those, we used a steam
gun connected to the boiler to flush the stain, and the board had a
vacuum to suck the steam/chemicals/crud away.  At home, I'd think
spot-treating, flushing with water, and blotting with a towel, repeated
as needed, should work.

Leah
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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT:  Funny Cats
Date: Sun, 01 May 2005 16:16:28 +0000
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Thanks for a great laugh, first thing in the morning!

*almost* as good as coffee first thing...

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> This is off topic but I know a lot of you have cats... so you will love this! 
> 
> http://www.themooseisloose.net/funny_cats.html 
> (have you volume on when watching) 
> 
> 
> Penny Ladnier, owner 
> The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com 
> Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com 
> Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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From: "Becky @ SewingCity.com" <becky@sewingcity.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Use of fur on sideless gowns
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One word of advice....

...don't use red velveteen.  

Actually, both the undergown and the sideless gown will be linen.  I plan on
lining the sideless so it moves nicely over the undergown.  

As for making one from velveteen... I wonder what fabrics would have been
documentable for a sideless? 

Becky
------------
http://www.sewingcity.com


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Date: Mon, 02 May 2005 10:23:48 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Use of fur on sideless gowns
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Becky @ SewingCity.com wrote:

>One word of advice....
>
>...don't use red velveteen.  
>
>Actually, both the undergown and the sideless gown will be linen.  I plan on
>lining the sideless so it moves nicely over the undergown.  
>
>As for making one from velveteen... I wonder what fabrics would have been
>documentable for a sideless? 
>  
>

Broadly, wools and silks.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Subject: [h-cost] Melbourne Fashion Week
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At the opening event of Melbourne International Fashion Week, the big fashion event in Australia, a group of anti-fur protesters staged a demonstration out the front. They were not halted by the fact that no fur was being displayed inside,

-C (who eats the insides and wears the outsides).
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Got a message from Barnes & Noble last night that they had cancelled my 
order because the book was unavailable :-(.


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Subject: [h-cost] Bummer! MC&T Order
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Bummer!  I just email from Barnes & Noble:

Despite our efforts, we were unable to fulfill some or all of the items

in your order, as noted below.  We have canceled this portion of your 
order.

We are sorry we were unable to complete your order and apologize for 
any inconvenience this has caused.

We hope you will return to http://www.bn.com at a later date to see if

this merchandise is back in stock.

Sincerely,

-- Barnes & Noble.com


The only item I had on this order was MC&T.  When I saw the email in my
inbox I had hoped it was to tell me this had shipped so this is a real
bummer.  Has anyone gotten this from B&N?

Thanks,
Catherine


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So did I...  I'm debating ordering it from Amazon... but I recall they had 
a MUCH higher price on it...  ; <   grrr.   Bridgette / Mari

>Got a message from Barnes & Noble last night that they had cancelled my 
>order because the book was unavailable :-(.

Mari Stewart
Webmaster
College of Veterinary Medicine
Cornell University


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Me too.  I wish I knew why???  Not enough orders to finalize a shipment?  I am so bummed, but I'll be ordering it from Boydell & Brewer: http://www.boydell.co.uk/43831236.HTM
 
RATS!!!
Chris G.

Catherine Kinsey <ckinsey@kumc.edu> wrote:
Bummer! I just email from Barnes & Noble:

Despite our efforts, we were unable to fulfill some or all of the items

in your order, as noted below. We have canceled this portion of your 
order.

We are sorry we were unable to complete your order and apologize for 
any inconvenience this has caused.

We hope you will return to http://www.bn.com at a later date to see if

this merchandise is back in stock.

Sincerely,

-- Barnes & Noble.com


The only item I had on this order was MC&T. When I saw the email in my
inbox I had hoped it was to tell me this had shipped so this is a real
bummer. Has anyone gotten this from B&N?

Thanks,
Catherine


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My contact at Boydell has no idea why B&N would be listing the book as
unavailable, as it most definitely is available. The first shipment
arrived in the US on April 21, and most of that has been sold; more are on
the way. B&N typically goes through a wholesaler that should also be
receiving them around now, if they haven't already. And that's all she
knows, and thus all I know.

--Robin


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From: Onaree Berard <msberard@gmail.com>
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I can confirm that, I've recieved my copy already and I ordered
directly from Boydell when it was first announced.

I really enjoyed it. I wasn't sure if I would since I've never read an
academic journal as opposed to something geared towards the mass
market.

I'm looking forward to hearing other people's views (now I know why I
haven't heard anything till now).

Let us know when the next is available for preorder, Robin, I'm
looking forward to it.

Onaree

On 5/2/05, Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
> 
> My contact at Boydell has no idea why B&N would be listing the book as
> unavailable, as it most definitely is available. The first shipment
> arrived in the US on April 21, and most of that has been sold; more are on
> the way. B&N typically goes through a wholesaler that should also be
> receiving them around now, if they haven't already. And that's all she
> knows, and thus all I know.
> 
> --Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] B&N and MC&T
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Thanks Robin, but I'll just order through Boydell as I don't want to wait.  I HOPE B&N isn't going the route that Amazon is...
 
Chris G.

Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:

My contact at Boydell has no idea why B&N would be listing the book as
unavailable, as it most definitely is available. The first shipment
arrived in the US on April 21, and most of that has been sold; more are on
the way. B&N typically goes through a wholesaler that should also be
receiving them around now, if they haven't already. And that's all she
knows, and thus all I know.

--Robin


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Date: Mon, 2 May 2005 13:31:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bummer! MC&T Order
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I also got burned by this email from Barnes & Noble. 
Very, Very Frustrating.

So I've gone somewhere else to order it, but am
frustrated at the time that has been wasted and the
cost differential now included.

*sigh*


Jonnalyhn/ Angharat

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On Mon, 2 May 2005, Angharad ver' Reynulf wrote:

> So I've gone somewhere else to order it, but am frustrated at the time
> that has been wasted and the cost differential now included.

To those of you that were burned in this way (and boy, am I annoyed),
please remember this post I made a few weeks ago:

Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2005 23:33:59 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: MC&T journal? was: untitled post

<snip>

For those who haven't bought yet, today I received a batch of flyers that
I may distribute to my colleagues -- and they include a discount code that
brings the price down to $37.50. That's not as good as the Barnes & Noble
price, last I looked. But if you want that discount, please e-mail me
directly. I consider the members of this list my colleagues, and am happy
to offer you the deal.

However, please do *not* forward the above paragraph elsewhere, as I
cannot claim that the members of several dozen costume lists are my
colleagues ;-)

<snip>


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To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Sun, 1 May 2005 10:00:12 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] removing grease on clothes
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> I would have thought that removing the kind of auto-lubricating 
> grease mentioned by a previous Lister, - would require lots of 
> highly-distilled denatured alcohol, or a very-refined White Spirit 
> or lots of Carbon Tetrachloride; - basically because - as I see that 
> problem, - the only remedy is to keep-on "flushing" the grease 
> stain,-  and blotting-up the emulsified/disolved grease must 
> continue until the cleansing agent is coming-away clean.
> Maybe a Lister who has had experience in the "Dry Cleaning" Trade 
> could add some comment?  

I know perchloroethelene (aka "perk", and I'm not guaranteeing the
spelling from memory) is used both as a dry cleaning solvent and as an
industrial de-greaser.  However, at least in the US, you won't be able to
buy some for home use.  Government regulations, you know -- breathing in
too much of the fumes will make you sick, and based on one animal test
that AFAIK no one else has been able to reproduce it's on the "possible
carcinogen" list.  Besides, it's expensive.  I've never worked anywhere
that used petroleum solvent or the new liquid CO2 method; if the news
articles on CO2 are accurate there's no way you're doing _that_ at home
due to the high pressures needed to keep it liquid.  I don't know if you
could get some petroleum solvent to take home or not.

I never did a lot of the dry cleaning, and now that I've been transferred
to one of the drop-off locations I'm not doing any.  Based on memory, I
don't recall the plant manager having to do much pre-spotting on grease
stains.  The solvent and tumbling in the drum (think oversized
front-loader washer) did the work for her.

I know among the chemicals on the spotting board were some that would
take out any remaining grease stains.  When using those, we used a steam
gun connected to the boiler to flush the stain, and the board had a
vacuum to suck the steam/chemicals/crud away.  At home, I'd think
spot-treating, flushing with water, and blotting with a towel, repeated
as needed, should work.

Leah
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Date: Mon, 2 May 2005 09:13:58 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Melbourne Fashion Week
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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OH! Were there any new glove fashions shown? Are there any pictures
of them anywhere?

I have noticed lately that they are reincorporating gloves with
outragious designs in the last year. Let us know! :)

Chiara

> At the opening event of Melbourne International Fashion Week, the
> big fashion event in Australia, a group of anti-fur protesters
> staged a demonstration out the front. They were not halted by the
> fact that no fur was being displayed inside,
>
> -C (who eats the insides and wears the outsides).
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Subject: [h-cost] Ribs-Thanks
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Thanks for all the input about the rib removal myth.  Hopefully I will
be able to add some more solid information to it.

Catherine
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On Mon, 2 May 2005, lisa wrote:

> Got a message from Barnes & Noble last night that they had cancelled
> my order because the book was unavailable :-(.

Which is really, really weird, because my contact at Boydell informed me
that they arrived at the US warehouse last week. I wonder if B&N has some
sort of set time period on pre-orders at which they declare something
"unavailable."

I will ask my contact whether they can do anything about this. I know a
lot of people ordered through B&N.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bummer! MC&T Order
Date: Mon, 2 May 2005 14:50:56 -0400
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Received mine from Boydell & Brewer late last week.

Barb (who hasn't had much to say up till now...)


On May 2, 2005, at 2:32 PM, Chris wrote:

> Me too.  I wish I knew why???  Not enough orders to finalize a 
> shipment?  I am so bummed, but I'll be ordering it from Boydell & 
> Brewer: http://www.boydell.co.uk/43831236.HTM
>
> RATS!!!
> Chris G.

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Thank you so much for sharing.  The sewing techniques and linen tape  you 
describe sound very, very similar to those utilized in an extant  white linen 
apron I own that has been dated pre-1800 so it is entirely  possible the cap is 
earlier that 1840.  If you can put up some images, we  would love to see.
 
Best regards,
Susannah
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Subject: [h-cost] Job opportunity at the Met
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     This was on a museum list - Looks like fun and maybe it fits the
skills of an h-costume listmember!     -Carol


Once again, the Metropolitan Museum of Art has a fantastic opportunity to
share with your members.  Please forward this opportunity to any
interested parties or post accordingly.  Contact us if you have any
questions or concerns.

Sincerely,


Employment Generalist
The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Human Resources


PRODUCTION ASSOCIATE

The Metropolitan Museum of Art, one of the world's finest museums, seeks a
Merchandise Production Associate in the Textile Reproductions Department. 
The Production Associate is responsible for supporting the department
Manager in all administrative aspects of the product development process
including managing the day-to-day communication and coordination with
other departments and follow-up on development progress with vendors,
researching the Met collections for appropriate images for use in
merchandise development, and maintaining a database of new product
development.

Successful candidates will have 3-5 years experience in a similar field. 
Strong administrative and computer skills required, including MS Excel,
Word, Outlook, Photoshop. Color expertise and interest in fashion
preferred.  College degree required.
Design training or experience and knowledge of art history preferred. 
Please send cover letter, resume, and salary history to
employoppty@metmuseum.org as a Word attachment only with the position
title in the subject line, or fax to 212-570-3882.


The Metropolitan Museum of Art
1000 Fifth Avenue
New York, NY 10028-0198
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: B&N and MC&T
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On Mon, 2 May 2005, Onaree Berard wrote:

> I really enjoyed it. I wasn't sure if I would since I've never read an
> academic journal as opposed to something geared towards the mass
> market.

That does my heart good! Thank you for the feedback!

> Let us know when the next is available for preorder, Robin, I'm
> looking forward to it.

I'll keep the list posted. I can tell you the topics it will cover (I'm
winding up the editing process this month):

 - Dress and accessories in an early Irish story (with comparisons to
surviving artifacts)

 - Textual inscriptions in the Bayeux Tapestry

 - References to clothmaking in 12th-c. French romances

 - Paris's role in the 13th- and 14th-c. textile markets

 - Attitudes about apparel and impoverishment in medieval and Early Modern
England

 - Textile cleaning techniques in Renaissance Europe (this is by Drea
Leed, whom many people here know)

 - Zibellini (commonly known as "flea furs")

 - The English embroidered jacket (that one is by Danielle Nunn-Weinberg,
also a listmember)


Just wanted to whet your appetite ;-)

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] fabric stores & etc in WY, MT, ID
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The husband and I are planning a nice rambling trip all over Wyoming, 
Montana, and Idaho (and driving through NW Missouri and Nebraska to get 
there).  We might dip into Washington briefly, but we wouldn't be going far 
enough west to hit the Pendleton outlets.  Are there any other fabric stores 
in that part of the country that are worth visiting?  I'm particularly in 
the market for wool, linen, or silk damasks and brocades, but I certainly 
wouldn't pass up nicely priced basics such as tropical weight worsteds or 
gobs of linens.

(We HAD been planning to go to the northeast instead of the northwest, and I 
was going to spend several hours in the general vicinity of Jomar and all 
the other nice fabric stores around there, but oh well!  Maybe next year.)

Also, is there anything around there this summer that a clothing & art 
museums person might not want to miss?

-E House 

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I ordered my copy of MC&T through B&N, and a day before the expected 
shipping date (a couple of weeks ago), they notified me that their stock 
had run out, and it could be up to a month longer before I got mine. 
Which is a bummer, as I've been waiting a while now.  Maybe the demand 
just exceeded their original expectations?
--Sue, who supposes she can console herself with the Anglo-Saxon 
clothing book, or with _Woven into the Earth_ :o)

Robin Netherton wrote:
> My contact at Boydell has no idea why B&N would be listing the book as
> unavailable, as it most definitely is available. The first shipment
> arrived in the US on April 21, and most of that has been sold; more are on
> the way. B&N typically goes through a wholesaler that should also be
> receiving them around now, if they haven't already. And that's all she
> knows, and thus all I know.
> 
> --Robin

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Actual fabric stores in the state of MT? Surely you jest? <g>
There are some interesting fiber places scattered in the state, but 
truly, the only fabric stores I've seen in this state in the last 10 
years have been JoAnn's, and there are two Hancock's.  And your random 
assortment of quilt-fabric shops.  But not much at all for 
garment/apparel.  For that, I generally go out of state or order online.
We have lots of other nice touristy things in the state, though.  What 
part of it are you cutting through?
--Sue (in the middle/NW area of Montana)

E House wrote:

> The husband and I are planning a nice rambling trip all over Wyoming, 
> Montana, and Idaho (and driving through NW Missouri and Nebraska to get 
> there).  We might dip into Washington briefly, but we wouldn't be going 
> far enough west to hit the Pendleton outlets.  Are there any other 
> fabric stores in that part of the country that are worth visiting?  I'm 
> particularly in the market for wool, linen, or silk damasks and 
> brocades, but I certainly wouldn't pass up nicely priced basics such as 
> tropical weight worsteds or gobs of linens.


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bummer! MC&T Order
Date: Mon, 2 May 2005 20:58:13 -0400
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On Monday 02 May 2005 2:23 pm, Catherine Kinsey wrote:
> Bummer!  I just email from Barnes & Noble:
>
> Despite our efforts, we were unable to fulfill some or all of the items
>
> in your order, as noted below.  We have canceled this portion of your
> order.
>
> We are sorry we were unable to complete your order and apologize for
> any inconvenience this has caused.
[snip]

>
> The only item I had on this order was MC&T.  When I saw the email in my
> inbox I had hoped it was to tell me this had shipped so this is a real
> bummer.  Has anyone gotten this from B&N?
>

No, but B&N didn't cancel my order either.  It gave me the option to wait 
another 30 days for MC&T (until May 31, 2005).  


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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From: Lady Satine <seamuslady@yahoo.com>
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I was trying to order this book for a friend of mine  as a birthday gift and I have not been able to place any orders with B&N for over 2 weeks now.. What is going on with them???? I go on the site and all teh books i hvae marked at teh begining of last month say they are unavailable to order????? this is really strage.. 
 
Satine

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon May  2 21:32:09 2005
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Date: Mon, 02 May 2005 18:31:05 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric stores & etc in WY, MT, ID
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Well, there's Reproduction Fabrics (Fabrics of time periods 1775-1970, as 
well as indigo-dyed prints) in Bozeman, MT.  Here's some information from 
their web site:

We are located in the beautiful Gallatin Valley surrounded by four mountain 
ranges. Our outlet store is in downtown Bozeman, Montana USA.
Come Visit!!
Just north of Yellowstone National Park, there is much to do here 
year-round, particularly in the outdoors: visit Yellowstone, hike out 
beautiful mountains, enjoy our world class fishing and big game hunting, 
ski at Big Sky or Bridger Bowl, and ...and, ..AND we are here!

To find us at 25 N. Willson St, Suite A, we are right downtown one block 
off Main Street (hwy 191). Look for the landmark 7-story Baxter Hotel 
Building on the corner of Main & Willson. We are on Willson Street side of 
that block.

Our hours are 9 a.m. - 5 p.m. M-F (MST) and 10-3 on Saturday (but our 
servers work 24 hours a day!).  The telephone number is 800-380-4611.

The web site is http://www.reproductionfabrics.com/ .  If you go to the web 
site you can get a map.

So there is at least one real fabric store in Montana, even if most of 
their business is mail order.

Joan

At 07:02 PM 5/2/2005 -0600, you wrote:
>Actual fabric stores in the state of MT? Surely you jest? <g>
>There are some interesting fiber places scattered in the state, but truly, 
>the only fabric stores I've seen in this state in the last 10 years have 
>been JoAnn's, and there are two Hancock's.  And your random assortment of 
>quilt-fabric shops.  But not much at all for garment/apparel.  For that, I 
>generally go out of state or order online.
>We have lots of other nice touristy things in the state, though.  What 
>part of it are you cutting through?
>--Sue (in the middle/NW area of Montana)
>
>E House wrote:
>
>>The husband and I are planning a nice rambling trip all over Wyoming, 
>>Montana, and Idaho (and driving through NW Missouri and Nebraska to get 
>>there).  We might dip into Washington briefly, but we wouldn't be going 
>>far enough west to hit the Pendleton outlets.  Are there any other fabric 
>>stores in that part of the country that are worth visiting?  I'm 
>>particularly in the market for wool, linen, or silk damasks and brocades, 
>>but I certainly wouldn't pass up nicely priced basics such as tropical 
>>weight worsteds or gobs of linens.
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 288
Date: Mon, 2 May 2005 21:57:47 -0400
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On Monday 02 May 2005 9:26 pm, Lady Satine wrote:
> I was trying to order this book for a friend of mine  as a birthday gift
> and I have not been able to place any orders with B&N for over 2 weeks
> now.. What is going on with them???? I go on the site and all teh books i
> hvae marked at teh begining of last month say they are unavailable to
> order????? this is really strage..

If you mean "Medieval Costume & Textiles, vol. 1," I have no idea what's up 
with B&N; I'm annoyed with them myself; I'm waiting for a copy too.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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Is it me, or has this website gone missing? I keep getting a Network 
Solutions "under construction" ad when I try any links to it:

Elizabethan Costuming Page
http://costume.dm.net/


Dawn


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At 09:48 PM 5/2/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>Is it me, or has this website gone missing? I keep getting a Network 
>Solutions "under construction" ad when I try any links to it:
>
>Elizabethan Costuming Page
>http://costume.dm.net/
>
>
>Dawn

I just went to it.  Seems fine.

Joan

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On Monday 02 May 2005 10:48 pm, Dawn wrote:
> Is it me, or has this website gone missing? I keep getting a Network
> Solutions "under construction" ad when I try any links to it:
>
> Elizabethan Costuming Page
> http://costume.dm.net/
>
It came up just fine for me literally a few seconds ago.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Sheryl Nance-Durst <sherylnd@kc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Elizabethan Pattern:  The Working Woman's Wardrobe
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Hey Margo,

I just looked through my new July 2005 Threads magazine...
Congrats on being featured!

Sheryl N-D


At 04:07 PM 4/30/05 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi, everyone!
>
>I'm happy to announce the release of yet another historically accurate,
>highly detailed
>Elizabethan Pattern!

<snip for space>

>To see it and order, go to www.margospatterns.com
>
>Thanks!
>
>Margo Anderson



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Ah, you're right.  I'd forgotten about them.  I'm several hours from 
Bozeman, so it's not something I'd think of automatically, but I've got 
a friend who's ordered from them, and they're on my "possibly good 
source for repro. prints" for a quilt I want to make (recreating a 
summer quilt that came from my Mom's family somewhere, and which is 
pieced in a Dresden Plate pattern, using flour-sack prints from the 30s).
Thanks for the info!
--sue

Joan Jurancich wrote:

> Well, there's Reproduction Fabrics (Fabrics of time periods 1775-1970, 
> as well as indigo-dyed prints) in Bozeman, MT.  Here's some information 
> from their web site:
<snipped>

> At 07:02 PM 5/2/2005 -0600, you wrote:
> 
>> Actual fabric stores in the state of MT? Surely you jest? <g>
>> There are some interesting fiber places scattered in the state, but 
>> truly, the only fabric stores I've seen in this state in the last 10 
>> years have been JoAnn's, and there are two Hancock's.  And your random 
>> assortment of quilt-fabric shops.  But not much at all for 
>> garment/apparel.  For that, I generally go out of state or order online.
>> We have lots of other nice touristy things in the state, though.  What 
>> part of it are you cutting through?
>> --Sue (in the middle/NW area of Montana)


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Maybe it's you? Or the time during which you were checking? I just 
tried, using the link in your post, and it popped right up.  But then, I 
did that roughly two hours after your post's time mark, and I'm using 
Netscape (sometimes the browser makes a difference).
--sue

Dawn wrote:

> Is it me, or has this website gone missing? I keep getting a Network 
> Solutions "under construction" ad when I try any links to it:
> 
> Elizabethan Costuming Page
> http://costume.dm.net/
> 
> 
> Dawn


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The only thing I can think of is that B&N discovered they didn't really want to sell at the lower advertised price after all.  Witht the falling dollar, Boydell has been raising prices (and not necessarily advising retailers first.)  The orders to bookstores have been shipped - I got mine last week.  It looks really nice although I haven't had time to sit down and read it.  However, my husband stayed up late the other night reading the article on clothing mentions in Viking sagas!  

I'm glad Boydell was talked into a more reasonable price - their new catalog came today and all their other journals seem to be $90.

Janet
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] B&N and MC&T
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On Tue, 3 May 2005, JAMES OGILVIE wrote:

> The only thing I can think of is that B&N discovered they didn't
> really want to sell at the lower advertised price after all.

That was my thought too. It was an *awfully* good price. I think it may
have been set during the brief period when Boydell had the journal up for
$40 (it was soon changed to $50).

>  Witht the falling dollar, Boydell has been raising prices (and not
> necessarily advising retailers first.)  The orders to bookstores have
> been shipped - I got mine last week.  It looks really nice although I
> haven't had time to sit down and read it.  However, my husband stayed
> up late the other night reading the article on clothing mentions in
> Viking sagas!

Or, more precisely, "What to wear to a slaying." (Answer: Something blue.)

> I'm glad Boydell was talked into a more reasonable price - their new
> catalog came today and all their other journals seem to be $90.

We worked very hard at that. I know $50 seems like a lot, but compared to
what Boydell was originally planning, it's a huge difference.

--Robin

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Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 01:10:55 -0700
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] missing web site
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>>Is it me, or has this website gone missing? I keep getting a 
>>Network Solutions "under construction" ad when I try any links to 
>>it:
>>
>>Elizabethan Costuming Page
>>http://costume.dm.net/

If your browser caches copies of pages, you may have only hit an 
"under construction" version of the page once, but your browser keeps 
feeding you that copy from cache, rather than downloading a new copy. 
Even hitting the "refresh" button won't necessarily get around this. 
See if you can find a command in your browser to clear your cache 
folder (or delete the contents of your cache, or various other ways 
of phrasing it).  Then try the page again.

No guarantees that this will work in your particular case, but it's 
worked for me when I've had similar problems.

Heather
-- 
--
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net
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Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 06:26:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris <emeraldepona@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] missing web site
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Hi Heather,
 
I'm at work (much better connection than my old dial-up at home) and the page opened right up for me.
 
Chris G.

Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net> wrote:
>>Is it me, or has this website gone missing? I keep getting a 
>>Network Solutions "under construction" ad when I try any links to 
>>it:
>>
>>Elizabethan Costuming Page
>>http://costume.dm.net/

If your browser caches copies of pages, you may have only hit an 
"under construction" version of the page once, but your browser keeps 
feeding you that copy from cache, rather than downloading a new copy. 
Even hitting the "refresh" button won't necessarily get around this. 
See if you can find a command in your browser to clear your cache 
folder (or delete the contents of your cache, or various other ways 
of phrasing it). Then try the page again.

No guarantees that this will work in your particular case, but it's 
worked for me when I've had similar problems.

Heather
-- 
--
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net
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Finally found a phone number on the website for customer service.  Per
the poor guy who was lucky enough to get my call; when they have to
delay shipping for a second time on an item, they cancel the order. 
Period.

I pointed out to him that we were given the option to continue or
cancel when there was the first delay and doing this the second time,
when the book was so close to arriving, and is still listed on their
website (altho without a price) looks like they are trying to now renig
on the discount the offered for advance orders.  

I was polite, but he knew I was not happy :).  I suggested he might
want to let their customer service know that they had several unhappy
customers over this and this policy should be reviewed.  Some books are
worth waiting for :).

Catherine
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Sue Clemenger wrote:

> Maybe it's you? Or the time during which you were checking? I just 
> tried, using the link in your post, and it popped right up.  But then, I 
> did that roughly two hours after your post's time mark, and I'm using 
> Netscape (sometimes the browser makes a difference).
> --sue

Thanks everyone who checked. I've been seeing that particular error page 
a lot lately, from various sites *I KNOW* are there , and it's not until 
I ask someone else on a different connection to check it too that I'm 
able to finally view it. We just changed DNS providers and I think 
something with our service is hinky. Now if I could get my husband to 
believe me...



Dawn


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Called B&N
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In our experience as a publisher, Barnes and Noble listings have little 
to do with book availability. They've listed books as available a month 
before we got them from the printer, they've waited over a month to list 
them after we have informed them the book is available. It's just the 
way they work.

Fran
Lavolta Presss Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Catherine Kinsey wrote:

>Finally found a phone number on the website for customer service.  Per
>the poor guy who was lucky enough to get my call; when they have to
>delay shipping for a second time on an item, they cancel the order. 
>
>  
>
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Subject: [h-cost] sequence of events for sewing jacket together
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I am making a sailors short jacket circa 1706.  it's a linen lined heavy
wool jacket.  I have cut out and sewn together the body and the sleeves so I
basically have "two" jackets, a linen one and a wool one that I need to sew
together.

 

What should I do first?  

Linen to wool sleeve then attach to body then sew the body linen lining into
the wool jacket

Or

Sew linen lining sleves to linen body, sew wool sleeves to wool body, then
linen jacket into wool jacket?

 

Or something else?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Greg 

 

www.gentlemenoffortune.com

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sequence of events for sewing jacket together
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At 14:02 04/05/2005 +0200, you wrote:
>I am making a sailors short jacket circa 1706.  it's a linen lined heavy
>wool jacket.  I have cut out and sewn together the body and the sleeves so I
>basically have "two" jackets, a linen one and a wool one that I need to sew
>together.
>
>
>
>What should I do first?
>
>Linen to wool sleeve then attach to body then sew the body linen lining into
>the wool jacket


That is the way I make jackets and coats - I don't know if it is the right 
way. Look at your ribbed silk coat that I made you - you will see the 
armholes are hand sewn.

Suzi


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Nope, no gloves visible unless they are in the raggy handbags...still, most
of this has been daywear so far so they are not doing the glove thing in
female business stories...Only a few after dark pieces so far, I'll mumble
something if they come out during the evening wear.

Hey, why can't blokes have gloves, too?

For that matter, why do we all have to be unshaven to make it in the fashion
stakes?

-C.

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Hard to say without seeing the thing but you might wanna try leaving the
centre back lining (if there is a seam there) open so you can drag bits
through for inside finishing. Stitch the inside-back seam last,

-C.

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Michaela,

I only have Photoshop, but if you send me the pictures, I can see what I 
can do to them.  Sorry that I did not reply sooner, shortly after I posted 
the original message, I got slapped with a monster cold.

Jennifer
At 01:15 PM 4/30/05 +1200, you wrote:

>I have some that were sent to me by the lady who gave me these:
>http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/mary/index.htm
>I can send you the full sized images if you have a program to clean them up
>a bit, or if you don't mind waiting a few days I can tryto clean them up and
>put them on my website.
>
>michaela de bruce
>http://glittersweet.com
>


what would you attempt to do if you knew you could not fail?  Anon.


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Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 08:40:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sequence of events for sewing jacket together
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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> I am making a sailors short jacket circa 1706.  it's a linen lined heavy
> wool jacket.  I have cut out and sewn together the body and the sleeves so
> I
> basically have "two" jackets, a linen one and a wool one that I need to
> sew
> together.
>
>
>
> What should I do first?
>
> Linen to wool sleeve then attach to body then sew the body linen lining
> into
> the wool jacket
>
> Or
>
> Sew linen lining sleves to linen body, sew wool sleeves to wool body, then
> linen jacket into wool jacket?
>
>
>
> Or something else?

If you want to sew it by hand, attach sleeves to jacket and then nestle
inner jacket into outer jacket (wrong sides together) then turn edges and
hand sew.

If you want to sew by machine, then you can put jacket to jacket (right
sides together) and sew around entire perimeter.  Then use the arm hole to
turn them inside out.  Then attach finished sleeves.

I don't know the historical way to do it, but these are two modern options.

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sequence of events for sewing jacket together
Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 18:55:55 +0000
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Hhhm.  It depends on how much work you'll want to put into it.  Years ago I took apart a couture men's jacket and found lots of interal stuff that just were too cool

Sew the wool jacket body together with out the collar and sleeves; same for lining.  The internal sutff was a bit of thin wool cotton around the head and back shoulders of the armholes, and in the top/back head of the sleeve (wool sleeve) to get a good lay on the armhole head.  Hand stitched twill tape along any diagonal 'fold/roll' lines, meaning if there's a lapel type feature on the jacket, you could reinforce the roll line.  If not, you can just hand stitch the twill tape to just the fold/roll line of the 'collar'.  There was twill tape around the jacket armhole, at the stress point of button holes the fold/roll line of the hems of both the jacket and sleeves.

The collar wool and lining was sewn together and then inset onto the neck of the wool jacket,  then the lining whould be sewn over all the thicknesses of collar and wool jacket down the fronts.  To be sure you have a better time of turning the coat (not distort the lining armhole), you might want to leave part of the jacket hem unsewn (if you plan on sewing the lining and the wool together at the hem), so you can pull it right side out that way, and not through the armhole.

Sew the sleeve wool and lining together and inset into armhole (this is the time where you'd insert the thin layer of wool cotton, for fillng out the sleeve.  Don't put too much!).  Handsew lining down.  If you are hem finishing the jacket wool and lining, be sure to sew anchoring loops at the hem.

Anyhow, I hope this helps.  and hopefully i have not mixed things up, as I'm due to work in 5 minutes!

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> I am making a sailors short jacket circa 1706. it's a linen lined heavy 
> wool jacket. I have cut out and sewn together the body and the sleeves so I 
> basically have "two" jackets, a linen one and a wool one that I need to sew 
> together. 
> 
> 
> 
> What should I do first? 
> 
> Linen to wool sleeve then attach to body then sew the body linen lining into 
> the wool jacket 
> 
> Or 
> 
> Sew linen lining sleves to linen body, sew wool sleeves to wool body, then 
> linen jacket into wool jacket? 
> 
> 
> 
> Or something else? 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance 
> 
> 
> 
> Greg 
> 
> 
> 
> www.gentlemenoffortune.com 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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From: Kathryn Parke <kjp1685@yahoo.com>
Subject: [h-cost] 1950s clothing term
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Hello, all --

I hoping one of you can help me with a term I ran across in a 1951 novel (Margery Sharps Lisa Lillywhite), which is a reference to a mans being dressed in a boiled. I know what boiled wool is, and wondered if this were just a shortened version of a suit made of boiled wool, perhaps? But that doesnt entirely make sense to me in context. Here are the two relevant quotes:

We offer a little collation on Sunday, at nine oclock. I know it is not customary in England to honour the Sabbath with a boiled; I leave the point to your discretion

Our hero (such as he is!) is put off by the sender, but:

Even so Martin did not put on his boiled; he compromised with a dark suit and a white shirt.

Thanks in advance to any of you who can enlighten me!

KP
 

		
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1950s clothing term
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At 13:20 04/05/2005 -0700, you wrote:

>Hello, all --
>
>I hoping one of you can help me with a term I ran across in a 1951 novel 
>(Margery Sharps Lisa Lillywhite), which is a reference to a mans being 
>dressed in a boiled. I know what boiled wool is, and wondered if this 
>were just a shortened version of a suit made of boiled wool, perhaps? But 
>that doesnt entirely make sense to me in context. Here are the two 
>relevant quotes:
>
>We offer a little collation on Sunday, at nine oclock. I know it is not 
>customary in England to honour the Sabbath with a boiled; I leave the 
>point to your discretion
>
>Our hero (such as he is!) is put off by the sender, but:
>
>Even so Martin did not put on his boiled; he compromised with a dark suit 
>and a white shirt.
>
>Thanks in advance to any of you who can enlighten me!


This is a short form of "boiled shirt". This is a formal shirt, with a 
stiffened, highly starched and polished "dickie", usually worn with an 
old-fashioned dinner jacket, waistcoat and trousers. I don't know if a 
tuxedo was worn like that.

Suzi



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Sounds like a boiled white shirt front, usually starched, worn with fairly 
formal clothing; that's why he could "compromise" with a dark suit and 
white shirt.  I remember the "boiled shirt" from the Lord Peter Wimsey series.
Joan
At 01:20 PM 5/4/2005 -0700, you wrote:

>Hello, all --
>
>I hoping one of you can help me with a term I ran across in a 1951 novel 
>(Margery Sharps Lisa Lillywhite), which is a reference to a mans being 
>dressed in a boiled. I know what boiled wool is, and wondered if this 
>were just a shortened version of a suit made of boiled wool, perhaps? But 
>that doesnt entirely make sense to me in context. Here are the two 
>relevant quotes:
>
>We offer a little collation on Sunday, at nine oclock. I know it is not 
>customary in England to honour the Sabbath with a boiled; I leave the 
>point to your discretion
>
>Our hero (such as he is!) is put off by the sender, but:
>
>Even so Martin did not put on his boiled; he compromised with a dark suit 
>and a white shirt.
>
>Thanks in advance to any of you who can enlighten me!
>
>KP


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Subject: [h-cost] couture cloaks?
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This wonderful answer brings to mind a question - is there such a thing 
as a "couture" cloak? If there was/is - how would it be put together?
Cheers, Aylwen


On Thursday, May 5, 2005, at 04:55 AM, elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net 
wrote:

> Hhhm.  It depends on how much work you'll want to put into it.  Years 
> ago I took apart a couture men's jacket and found lots of interal 
> stuff that just were too cool
>
> Sew the wool jacket body together with out the collar and sleeves; 
> same for lining.  The internal sutff was a bit of thin wool cotton 
> around the head and back shoulders of the armholes, and in the 
> top/back head of the sleeve (wool sleeve) to get a good lay on the 
> armhole head.  Hand stitched twill tape along any diagonal 'fold/roll' 
> lines, meaning if there's a lapel type feature on the jacket, you 
> could reinforce the roll line.  If not, you can just hand stitch the 
> twill tape to just the fold/roll line of the 'collar'.  There was 
> twill tape around the jacket armhole, at the stress point of button 
> holes the fold/roll line of the hems of both the jacket and sleeves.
>
> The collar wool and lining was sewn together and then inset onto the 
> neck of the wool jacket,  then the lining whould be sewn over all the 
> thicknesses of collar and wool jacket down the fronts.  To be sure you 
> have a better time of turning the coat (not distort the lining 
> armhole), you might want to leave part of the jacket hem unsewn (if 
> you plan on sewing the lining and the wool together at the hem), so 
> you can pull it right side out that way, and not through the armhole.
>
> Sew the sleeve wool and lining together and inset into armhole (this 
> is the time where you'd insert the thin layer of wool cotton, for 
> fillng out the sleeve.  Don't put too much!).  Handsew lining down.  
> If you are hem finishing the jacket wool and lining, be sure to sew 
> anchoring loops at the hem.
>
> Anyhow, I hope this helps.  and hopefully i have not mixed things up, 
> as I'm due to work in 5 minutes!
>
> --
> Slan go foill
> Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri
>
> Emer's Needle Wares
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
>> I am making a sailors short jacket circa 1706. it's a linen lined 
>> heavy
>> wool jacket. I have cut out and sewn together the body and the 
>> sleeves so I
>> basically have "two" jackets, a linen one and a wool one that I need 
>> to sew
>> together.
>>
>>
>>
>> What should I do first?
>>
>> Linen to wool sleeve then attach to body then sew the body linen 
>> lining into
>> the wool jacket
>>
>> Or
>>
>> Sew linen lining sleves to linen body, sew wool sleeves to wool body, 
>> then
>> linen jacket into wool jacket?
>>
>>
>>
>> Or something else?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks in advance
>>
>>
>>
>> Greg
>>
>>
>>
>> www.gentlemenoffortune.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> _______________________________________________
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From: "Becky @ SewingCity.com" <becky@sewingcity.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] couture cloaks?
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-----Original Message-----
This wonderful answer brings to mind a question - is there such a thing 
as a "couture" cloak? If there was/is - how would it be put together?
Cheers, Aylwen


It's possible.  It would be mostly hand sewn, with careful attention to
pressing of the seams.  Stylish, and made from a high quality fabric.  Hem
would be hand sewn with a stabilizer such as twill tape or horse hair braid.

Becky
http://www.sewingcity.com


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Subject: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question
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How much is your line in the sand for repairing an old good machine?

I have a kenmore, it is over 25 years old, all steel parts. The
tension knob assembly broke completely off, the needle plate is
pretty badly chewed up.

I took it in to a local sewing machine shop that has been around
since the town was a town. He quoted, for the repair and the tuning
and cleaning of the machine, 75.00. He also has the elusive Teflon
foot for my type of machine for 4 bucks (which is a good price!).

I said go for it, the machine has been good to me for all these
years. But I want to know from you all ... is this a normal cost for
this much repair and tuning for a 25 year old Kenmore? I mean, if it
were a white or singer that was only 3 years old I am not sure if I
would want to spend that much when I can go buy the exact same thing
for the same amount.

Opinions? Testimonies?
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question
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My experiences with sewing machine maintenance and repair puts your cost as very reasonable.  The last place I went to charged me about $90 just for a tune up and cleaning.  They found a problem with my cord for the pedal and replaced without charging me more.  The thing is, when I was getting quotes they ranged from the $90.00 to $150.  I was very lucky the lowest priced quote was for the sewing machine place that had the most recommendations.

Anyhow, that's what my experiences were... 

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> How much is your line in the sand for repairing an old good machine? 
> 
> I have a kenmore, it is over 25 years old, all steel parts. The 
> tension knob assembly broke completely off, the needle plate is 
> pretty badly chewed up. 
> 
> I took it in to a local sewing machine shop that has been around 
> since the town was a town. He quoted, for the repair and the tuning 
> and cleaning of the machine, 75.00. He also has the elusive Teflon 
> foot for my type of machine for 4 bucks (which is a good price!). 
> 
> I said go for it, the machine has been good to me for all these 
> years. But I want to know from you all ... is this a normal cost for 
> this much repair and tuning for a 25 year old Kenmore? I mean, if it 
> were a white or singer that was only 3 years old I am not sure if I 
> would want to spend that much when I can go buy the exact same thing 
> for the same amount. 
> 
> Opinions? Testimonies? 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question
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Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio wrote:

> He quoted, for the repair and the tuning
> and cleaning of the machine, 75.00. He also has the elusive Teflon
> foot for my type of machine for 4 bucks (which is a good price!).
> 
> I said go for it, the machine has been good to me for all these
> years. But I want to know from you all ... is this a normal cost for
> this much repair and tuning for a 25 year old Kenmore? 

That sounds reasonable to me, especially as it includes replacing parts. 
I've seen tune-ups alone for that price. For a dependable machine of 
good quality I would be willing to pay more. You get years of additional 
use for a fraction of the price of a new, cheapie machine.



Dawn


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question
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Last time I took my machine in for a clean and adjust it was 50 bucks- I
would think you are getting a deal! Pyro

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio
Sent: Friday, May 06, 2005 8:46 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question

How much is your line in the sand for repairing an old good machine?

I have a kenmore, it is over 25 years old, all steel parts. The
tension knob assembly broke completely off, the needle plate is
pretty badly chewed up.

I took it in to a local sewing machine shop that has been around
since the town was a town. He quoted, for the repair and the tuning
and cleaning of the machine, 75.00. He also has the elusive Teflon
foot for my type of machine for 4 bucks (which is a good price!).

I said go for it, the machine has been good to me for all these
years. But I want to know from you all ... is this a normal cost for
this much repair and tuning for a 25 year old Kenmore? I mean, if it
were a white or singer that was only 3 years old I am not sure if I
would want to spend that much when I can go buy the exact same thing
for the same amount.

Opinions? Testimonies?
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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I would say your repair man gave you a fair and reasonable price.  I think 
those older all metal machines are well worth keeping in working 
order.  I'm currently a fashion student and put my machines through a heavy 
work load.  The new ones are great, but the older machines are special.  My 
local repair guy (of course depending on the repair) charges about $100.00 
when I go in for regular (yearly maintenance and repairs.


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question
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I would compare the cost of repair to the cost of getting a comparable 
replacement machine.  Given the fact that it is hard to find a newer 
machine with all steel parts, I'd get this one repaired.  Think of it as 
getting a nearly new machine for under $100.  Sounds better that way.
Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA

At 08:46 AM 5/6/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>How much is your line in the sand for repairing an old good machine?
>
>I have a kenmore, it is over 25 years old, all steel parts. The
>tension knob assembly broke completely off, the needle plate is
>pretty badly chewed up.
>
>I took it in to a local sewing machine shop that has been around
>since the town was a town. He quoted, for the repair and the tuning
>and cleaning of the machine, 75.00. He also has the elusive Teflon
>foot for my type of machine for 4 bucks (which is a good price!).
>
>I said go for it, the machine has been good to me for all these
>years. But I want to know from you all ... is this a normal cost for
>this much repair and tuning for a 25 year old Kenmore? I mean, if it
>were a white or singer that was only 3 years old I am not sure if I
>would want to spend that much when I can go buy the exact same thing
>for the same amount.
>
>Opinions? Testimonies?

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Subject: [h-cost] costume dvds for sale
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I'm clearing out some dvds and have a group of five
for sale, $25 for all, plus shipping of your choice.
They were all bought new in the past year, viewed
once.

Master and Commander, WS
Return of Martin Guerre
Restoration, WS
The Importance of Being Earnest (Rupert Everett, Colin
Firth), WS
The Advocate, WS

If you want to buy or have questions, please email me
off list at jmr779@alltel.net.

Melissa Roberts



	
		
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Date: Fri, 06 May 2005 07:59:03 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question
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>I took it in to a local sewing machine shop that has been around
>since the town was a town. He quoted, for the repair and the tuning
>and cleaning of the machine, 75.00. He also has the elusive Teflon
>foot for my type of machine for 4 bucks (which is a good price!).

You couldn't replace a machine that good for $75, so I'd also say go for it.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 08:48:33 -0700
From: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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So, where do you live? What town has this great repair shop? it seems
to me that, if you recommend him after the repairs, he'll have a whole
bunch of new customers between the recommendations you heard and his
prices. I paid $75 for a general cleaning and preventive maintenance
the last time I took my (same as you) 25 year old Kenmore into the
shop, and they found nothing wrong with it except dust.

LynnD

On 5/6/05, Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio <chiara@io.com> wrote:
> How much is your line in the sand for repairing an old good machine?
> 
> I have a kenmore, it is over 25 years old, all steel parts. The
> tension knob assembly broke completely off, the needle plate is
> pretty badly chewed up.
> 
> I took it in to a local sewing machine shop that has been around
> since the town was a town. He quoted, for the repair and the tuning
> and cleaning of the machine, 75.00. He also has the elusive Teflon
> foot for my type of machine for 4 bucks (which is a good price!).
> 
> I said go for it, the machine has been good to me for all these
> years. But I want to know from you all ... is this a normal cost for
> this much repair and tuning for a 25 year old Kenmore? I mean, if it
> were a white or singer that was only 3 years old I am not sure if I
> would want to spend that much when I can go buy the exact same thing
> for the same amount.
> 
> Opinions? Testimonies?
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri May  6 12:51:46 2005
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] couture cloaks?
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I think some of these tailoring techiques could easily be appliied to a 
cloak with collar (and/or) hood.  Check out Folkwear's Kinsale cloak.  
Having made one of these myself, the collar and openings (believe it or 
not) need special attention.  The collar to roll correctly and the 
opening to hang properly!

Sg

Becky @ SewingCity.com wrote:

>-----Original Message-----
>This wonderful answer brings to mind a question - is there such a thing 
>as a "couture" cloak? If there was/is - how would it be put together?
>Cheers, Aylwen
>
>
>It's possible.  It would be mostly hand sewn, with careful attention to
>pressing of the seams.  Stylish, and made from a high quality fabric.  Hem
>would be hand sewn with a stabilizer such as twill tape or horse hair braid.
>
>Becky
>http://www.sewingcity.com
>
>
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Its a smokin' deal if you ask me!  Sounds like you did the right thing!

Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio wrote:

>How much is your line in the sand for repairing an old good machine?
>
>I have a kenmore, it is over 25 years old, all steel parts. The
>tension knob assembly broke completely off, the needle plate is
>pretty badly chewed up.
>
>I took it in to a local sewing machine shop that has been around
>since the town was a town. He quoted, for the repair and the tuning
>and cleaning of the machine, 75.00. He also has the elusive Teflon
>foot for my type of machine for 4 bucks (which is a good price!).
>
>I said go for it, the machine has been good to me for all these
>years. But I want to know from you all ... is this a normal cost for
>this much repair and tuning for a 25 year old Kenmore? I mean, if it
>were a white or singer that was only 3 years old I am not sure if I
>would want to spend that much when I can go buy the exact same thing
>for the same amount.
>
>Opinions? Testimonies?
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>  
>
_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hehe ....  It is in McKinney Texas. It was recommended to me by a
newcomer to our group, she is an awsome resource for the hole in the
wall places all over the DFW area. Going to try to convince her to
start a website with me for them, kinda like the Daily Candy. I know
where Neiman Marcus sends their 'extra' stuff from the sample sales
after the employees pick over them. That kinda stuff..)

Willett's Sew and Vac
http://www.willetts-pfaff.com/

He is the local vacuum repair man too. :)


On Fri, May 6, 2005 10:48 am, Lynn Downward said:
> So, where do you live? What town has this great repair shop? it
> seems
> to me that, if you recommend him after the repairs, he'll have a
> whole
> bunch of new customers between the recommendations you heard and his
> prices. I paid $75 for a general cleaning and preventive maintenance
> the last time I took my (same as you) 25 year old Kenmore into the
> shop, and they found nothing wrong with it except dust.
>
> LynnD
>
> On 5/6/05, Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio <chiara@io.com> wrote:
>> How much is your line in the sand for repairing an old good
>> machine?
>>
>> I have a kenmore, it is over 25 years old, all steel parts. The
>> tension knob assembly broke completely off, the needle plate is
>> pretty badly chewed up.
>>
>> I took it in to a local sewing machine shop that has been around
>> since the town was a town. He quoted, for the repair and the
>> tuning
>> and cleaning of the machine, 75.00. He also has the elusive Teflon
>> foot for my type of machine for 4 bucks (which is a good price!).
>>
>> I said go for it, the machine has been good to me for all these
>> years. But I want to know from you all ... is this a normal cost
>> for
>> this much repair and tuning for a 25 year old Kenmore? I mean, if
>> it
>> were a white or singer that was only 3 years old I am not sure if
>> I
>> would want to spend that much when I can go buy the exact same
>> thing
>> for the same amount.
>>
>> Opinions? Testimonies?
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


Franchesca Havas
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From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question
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Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:
>I took it in to a local sewing machine shop that has been around
>since the town was a town. He quoted, for the repair and the tuning
>and cleaning of the machine, 75.00. He also has the elusive Teflon
>foot for my type of machine for 4 bucks (which is a good price!).

You couldn't replace a machine that good for $75, so I'd also say go for it.


CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
www.FunStuft.com

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Oh, well. It would take $75 to send my heavy sewing machine from San
Francisco Bay Area to Texas. I guess I'll stick to the guy nearby. But
those of you in the DFW area, you've been handed a jewel.
LynnD

On 5/6/05, Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio <chiara@io.com> wrote:
> Hehe ....  It is in McKinney Texas. It was recommended to me by a
> newcomer to our group, she is an awsome resource for the hole in the
> wall places all over the DFW area. Going to try to convince her to
> start a website with me for them, kinda like the Daily Candy. I know
> where Neiman Marcus sends their 'extra' stuff from the sample sales
> after the employees pick over them. That kinda stuff..)
> 
> Willett's Sew and Vac
> http://www.willetts-pfaff.com/
> 
> He is the local vacuum repair man too. :)
> 
> On Fri, May 6, 2005 10:48 am, Lynn Downward said:
> > So, where do you live? What town has this great repair shop? it
> > seems
> > to me that, if you recommend him after the repairs, he'll have a
> > whole
> > bunch of new customers between the recommendations you heard and his
> > prices. I paid $75 for a general cleaning and preventive maintenance
> > the last time I took my (same as you) 25 year old Kenmore into the
> > shop, and they found nothing wrong with it except dust.
> >
> > LynnD

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Subject: [h-cost] Table of Contents of NESAT 8
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Eva I. Andersson, who is a member of another costume history list to which I 
subscribe, posted the following list of articles from NESAT 8, which is also 
supposedly coming out this year.  Thank you, Eva!

It's called "Priceless invention of humanity - Textiles"
and it is published in the series Acta Archaeologica Lodziensia NR
50/1, in Lodz, Poland and its ISSN is 0065-0956.

 Carol A. Christiansen, A Reanalysis of Fleece Evolution Studies
 Fabienne MĂŠdard, Cristophe MoulhĂŠrat, Sophie MĂŠry, Discovery of
Charred Yarn in a Bronze Age Burial at Hili (Abu Dhabi Region, United
Arab Emirates)
 Carmen Alfaro Giner, Late Roman Textiles in the North of Spain
(;Las Ermitas, Vitoria)
 Ida Demant, Textiles and Dress-Fasteners from Lerdal Grave 101
 Heidemarie Farke,Textile Spuren in einem kaiserzeitliche Grab aus
Norddeutschland
 Katarzyna Barska, The Roman Period warp-weighted Loom from Ozarow
Mazowiecki, Poland
 Chris Verhecken-Lammens, Marc Rogge, Antoine de Moor, Textiles found
in a Merovingian Woman's Grave at Beerlegem, Belgium
 Marianne Vedeler, Pleated Fragments of Clothing from Norway
 Ulla Mannering, Dress in Scandinavian Iconography of the 5th to 10th
centuries A.D.
 Antoinette Rast-Eicher, Early Medieval Costume in Switzerland
 Anne Hedeager Krag, New Light on a Viking Garment from Ladby,
Denmark
 Milena BravermanovĂĄ, The oldest Textile items from the Reliquary Tomb
of St. Ludmila
 Elizabeth Wincott Heckett, A Tenth Century Cloth from Bogstown Co.
Meath
 Malgorzata Grupa, Textiles from the Early Medieval Cemetery at
Kaldus, Pomerania, Poland
 Eva I. Andersson, Written Traces ; Wills in 13th to 15th
century Scandinavia
 Susan MĂśller-Wiering, Schiffbau und Textil: AnsĂ¤tze zu einer
systematischen Untersuchung von Kalfat
 Lise Raeder Knudsen, Written Patterns in Early Tablet Weaving
 Katarzyna Urbaniak-Walczak, Ein koptisches Textilfragment in
Leinwand-Schuss-Kompositbindung aus der Sammlung des Nationalmuseums
in Warschau
 Marek Trojanowicz, Izabella Surowiec, Jowita Orska-Gawrys, Bogdan
Szostek, Katarzyna Urbaniak-Walczak, Magdalena Biesaga,
Chromatographic Examination of Dyes Extracted from Coptic Textiles
from the Collections of the National Museum in Warsaw
 Klaus Tidow, Neue Funde von Webstuhlteilen und Geweben aus
Ausgrabungen in Braunschweig (Niedersachsen) und Wiesloch
(Baden-WĂźrttemberg)
 Fabian Peise, Eine LĂźbecker Kase im Danziger Paramentenschatz
 Hanna Zimmerman, 16th century Hose and their Manufacture Anna
Drazkowska, 17th-18th century Clothing from Children's Graves
discovered in the Church at Kostrzyn on the Oder, Poland
 Gudrun BĂśttcher, Versuche und Ergebnisse bei der Rekonstruktion von
Nadelbindungstextilien
 Britt Nowak, Zur Beiarbeitung und Konservierung von GoldfĂ¤den aus dem
frĂźhmittelalterlichen MĂ¤nnergrab 21 in Lauchheim/Mittelhofen
(Ostalbkreis/Baden-WĂźrttemberg)
 Elizabeth E. Peacock, MoseforsĂ¸g ; Two generations of Bog
Burial Studies. Interim Textile Results.
 Eva Andersson, The reconstruction of Archaeological Textiles, a
Source Critical Approach

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson

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At 18:55 04/05/2005 +0000, you wrote:
>Hhhm.  It depends on how much work you'll want to put into it.  Years ago 
>I took apart a couture men's jacket and found lots of interal stuff that 
>just were too cool
>
>Sew the wool jacket body together with out the collar and sleeves; same 
>for lining.  The internal sutff was a bit of thin wool cotton around the 
>head and back shoulders of the armholes, and in the top/back head of the 
>sleeve (wool sleeve) to get a good lay on the armhole head.  Hand stitched 
>twill tape along any diagonal 'fold/roll' lines, meaning if there's a 
>lapel type feature on the jacket, you could reinforce the roll line.  If 
>not, you can just hand stitch the twill tape to just the fold/roll line of 
>the 'collar'.  There was twill tape around the jacket armhole, at the 
>stress point of button holes the fold/roll line of the hems of both the 
>jacket and sleeves.
>
>The collar wool and lining was sewn together and then inset onto the neck 
>of the wool jacket,  then the lining whould be sewn over all the 
>thicknesses of collar and wool jacket down the fronts.  To be sure you 
>have a better time of turning the coat (not distort the lining armhole), 
>you might want to leave part of the jacket hem unsewn (if you plan on 
>sewing the lining and the wool together at the hem), so you can pull it 
>right side out that way, and not through the armhole.
>
>Sew the sleeve wool and lining together and inset into armhole (this is 
>the time where you'd insert the thin layer of wool cotton, for fillng out 
>the sleeve.  Don't put too much!).  Handsew lining down.  If you are hem 
>finishing the jacket wool and lining, be sure to sew anchoring loops at 
>the hem.
>
>Anyhow, I hope this helps.  and hopefully i have not mixed things up, as 
>I'm due to work in 5 minutes!


I would have thought that for a sailor's jacket, the above is not entirely 
necessary. I have not found such modern tailoring before c1830 (ish!). The 
lining and interlining of 18th century coats is not the same as modern 
coats - there is a diagram in "Cut of Men's Clothes" which shows much of 
the padding etc. required for an upper class coat, and I think I have seen 
another for a child's coat. From a purely practical point of view I would 
not have thought this would be done for a sailor's coat.

Suzi


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From: "Jennifer / Guenievre" <generys@blazemail.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1950s clothing term
Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 16:37:06 -0400
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The first part sounds more like they're talking about food - a boiled might
be short for "a boiled dinner" - ie an Irish boiled dinner (thus the
comparison to England) - something like
http://beef.allrecipes.com/az/30918.asp .  

Not sure about the clothing part, though...


Gueničvre 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Kathryn Parke
> Sent: Wednesday, May 04, 2005 4:21 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] 1950s clothing term
> 
> 
> Hello, all --
> 
> I hoping one of you can help me with a term I ran across in a 1951 novel
> (Margery Sharps Lisa Lillywhite), which is a reference to a mans being
> dressed in a boiled. I know what boiled wool is, and wondered if this
> were just a shortened version of a suit made of boiled wool, perhaps? But
> that doesnt entirely make sense to me in context. Here are the two
> relevant quotes:
> 
> We offer a little collation on Sunday, at nine oclock. I know it is not
> customary in England to honour the Sabbath with a boiled; I leave the
> point to your discretion
> 
> Our hero (such as he is!) is put off by the sender, but:
> 
> Even so Martin did not put on his boiled; he compromised with a dark suit
> and a white shirt.
> 
> Thanks in advance to any of you who can enlighten me!
> 
> KP
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
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I've mainly used two methods
1 - make up two complete jackets, including sleeves (one lining and one 
outer), then hem stitch the lining into the outer (while it's inside out)

2 - the way used traditionally by couture ateliers and tailors - make up the 
bodies as two jackets and attach them together - make up the sleeve, and 
stitch the wool part of the sleeve into the body (treating outer and lining of body 
as one), then whip stitch the sleeve lining in to cover the sleeve seam.

There are other methods (at least two I can think of).

Overall I prefer the latter, but I don't think either way is right or wrong - 
just personal preference.





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BTW, there is also "Mom's Goop" which is supposed to take up stains on 
fabric.

The company is at http://www.goophandcleaner.com

Marc
---------------------------------
Do you have any experience with this on a cotton shirt? I've just
managed my 'clever trick of the day', i.e. flipping a black flair pen
point-first into my new white embroidered blouse. *Insert sound of
grinding teeth here*

Kate McClure
And for my next magical trick . . . 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] couture cloaks?
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>This wonderful answer brings to mind a question - is there such a thing
>as a "couture" cloak? If there was/is - how would it be put together?
>Cheers, Aylwen
>
>
>It's possible.  It would be mostly hand sewn, with careful attention to
>pressing of the seams.  Stylish, and made from a high quality fabric.  Hem
>would be hand sewn with a stabilizer such as twill tape or horse hair braid.

In the late 1800s-early 1900s, Paquin made couture cloaks, capelets, and 
things like that.  Paquin was a contemporary of Worth, who invented the 
couture fashion industry as we know it today.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question
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> How much is your line in the sand for repairing an old good machine?
> 

At our local repair shops (central MA) a tune up for any machine(serger or standard) runs about 70$ no matter how old or new.  It seems to be the standard bench fee for sewing machines in our area.

I'm trying do decide if my old machine is worth a tune as well.  I was lucky enough to take it apart myself and fix the timming by removing gunk from inside the bobbin casing.  I should give myself the 70$ I saved to go buy more fabric. :)

-annette

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question
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I know in Port Arthur Tx just getting a tune up on my fairly new machine
"Brother" it cost me $62.  And then $47 for an old Singer just to clean
it up and check it out.
theresa

>>> chiara@io.com 5/6/2005 8:46:21 AM >>>
How much is your line in the sand for repairing an old good machine?

I have a kenmore, it is over 25 years old, all steel parts. The
tension knob assembly broke completely off, the needle plate is
pretty badly chewed up.

I took it in to a local sewing machine shop that has been around
since the town was a town. He quoted, for the repair and the tuning
and cleaning of the machine, 75.00. He also has the elusive Teflon
foot for my type of machine for 4 bucks (which is a good price!).

I said go for it, the machine has been good to me for all these
years. But I want to know from you all ... is this a normal cost for
this much repair and tuning for a 25 year old Kenmore? I mean, if it
were a white or singer that was only 3 years old I am not sure if I
would want to spend that much when I can go buy the exact same thing
for the same amount.

Opinions? Testimonies?
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Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 08:01:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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> How much is your line in the sand for repairing an old good machine?
>
> I have a kenmore, it is over 25 years old, all steel parts. The
> tension knob assembly broke completely off, the needle plate is
> pretty badly chewed up.
>
> I took it in to a local sewing machine shop that has been around
> since the town was a town. He quoted, for the repair and the tuning
> and cleaning of the machine, 75.00. He also has the elusive Teflon
> foot for my type of machine for 4 bucks (which is a good price!).
>
> I said go for it, the machine has been good to me for all these
> years. But I want to know from you all ... is this a normal cost for
> this much repair and tuning for a 25 year old Kenmore? I mean, if it
> were a white or singer that was only 3 years old I am not sure if I
> would want to spend that much when I can go buy the exact same thing
> for the same amount.
>
> Opinions? Testimonies?

I have not had to do any major repair on my machine (knock on wood) but a
"tune up" in my area runs over $50.  And from prior experience getting
parts for my serger, parts are not cheap either.  So I would say that if
you are happy with your machine & it has been good to you, then it is
worth $75 to fix 'er up.

Also, given the discussion a little while ago about older machines with
good steel parts versus newer machines that have lots of plastic, you
should hold onto your all steel machine.  Think of it like an old reliable
car that you don't have to make payments on but that requires a trip to
the mechanics now and then.  In the long run, you will get more for your
buck than if you buy something new.

My two cents....

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] couture cloaks?
Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 11:44:51 -0500
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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The House of Worth, Poiret, Fortuny, and others all made couture cloaks.
Of course they were called many different things: mantles, opera cloaks,
etc. They would be made to coordinate with one or more gowns or dresses.
The House of Worth made a beautiful everning short cape in the
mid-1890's that was a virtual copy of a Spanish nobleman's cape of the
1500's that was in Charles Worth's private collection. Such capes or
cloaks(often made of lace in the early 20th century)would stand out from
a "mere" dressmaker's or home-produced cloak or cape with an exclusive
fabric, master embroidery and/or beading. The House of Worth was famous
for its exclusive fabrics, custom-woven for Worth, with often
large-scale motifs and designs based on some antique designs Charles
Frederick Worth either owned or based on paintings he was familiar with.

However, dressmaker or home-produced items could be as finally or better
made in terms of quality of construction and women's magazines of the
day were chock full of how-to projects to make their own dress
accessories and trimmings as well as the clothing of the day.

Cindy Abel


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>From another Kenmore lover, I think this is a good price.  The last time I
had the tension assembly replaced (12 years ago?) the cost for the unit
alone was $30.  At that time, I had in-home service from Sears for about $45
a year 'insurance, parts extra'. I usually pay pay about $50 for tune up
with my present shop.
The 'retired machine' is still my backup for the Pfaff Jeans and Satin; but
ye olde Kenmore can still do Her Stuff!  I got a new machine only because
the Sears man was having trouble finding the esoteric parts (from the
extensive Sears system of sewing machine inventory) to replace gears, belts
and such that were showing their miles after 35 years of heavy constant use
in the world of Costume.

Kathleen




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, May 06, 2005 9:46 AM
Subject: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question


> How much is your line in the sand for repairing an old good machine?
>
> I have a kenmore, it is over 25 years old, all steel parts. The
> tension knob assembly broke completely off, the needle plate is
> pretty badly chewed up.
>
> I took it in to a local sewing machine shop that has been around
> since the town was a town. He quoted, for the repair and the tuning
> and cleaning of the machine, 75.00. He also has the elusive Teflon
> foot for my type of machine for 4 bucks (which is a good price!).
>
> I said go for it, the machine has been good to me for all these
> years. But I want to know from you all ... is this a normal cost for
> this much repair and tuning for a 25 year old Kenmore? I mean, if it
> were a white or singer that was only 3 years old I am not sure if I
> would want to spend that much when I can go buy the exact same thing
> for the same amount.
>
> Opinions? Testimonies?
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <BB3EEC584579204DB6E2CA0F6DB7566F0130D485@exbe01.blue.jays.creighton.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] couture cloaks?
Date: Sat, 7 May 2005 08:39:22 -0400
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And, don't forget Chanel for her significant contributions in the Twentieth
Century! Much of the home sewing trade was based on her democratic ideas of
Class in society need not be regulated by the size of one's purse.  Every
woman had the right and means of being fashionable!

Kathleen



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, May 06, 2005 12:44 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] couture cloaks?


>
>
> The House of Worth, Poiret, Fortuny, and others all made couture cloaks.
> Of course they were called many different things: mantles, opera cloaks,
> etc. They would be made to coordinate with one or more gowns or dresses.
> The House of Worth made a beautiful everning short cape in the
> mid-1890's that was a virtual copy of a Spanish nobleman's cape of the
> 1500's that was in Charles Worth's private collection. Such capes or
> cloaks(often made of lace in the early 20th century)would stand out from
> a "mere" dressmaker's or home-produced cloak or cape with an exclusive
> fabric, master embroidery and/or beading. The House of Worth was famous
> for its exclusive fabrics, custom-woven for Worth, with often
> large-scale motifs and designs based on some antique designs Charles
> Frederick Worth either owned or based on paintings he was familiar with.
>
> However, dressmaker or home-produced items could be as finally or better
> made in terms of quality of construction and women's magazines of the
> day were chock full of how-to projects to make their own dress
> accessories and trimmings as well as the clothing of the day.
>
> Cindy Abel
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat May  7 12:35:59 2005
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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sequence of events for sewing jacket together
Date: Sat, 07 May 2005 16:31:02 +0000
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You may be quite right.  I'm sorry if I've given our bad or wrong construction information for 1830 ish clothing...1830 ish is not my period.

My reply is purely from a informational perspective, of what I've seen done in tailoring.

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> At 18:55 04/05/2005 +0000, you wrote: 
> >Hhhm. It depends on how much work you'll want to put into it. Years ago 
> >I took apart a couture men's jacket and found lots of interal stuff that 
> >just were too cool 
> > 
> >Sew the wool jacket body together with out the collar and sleeves; same 
> >for lining. The internal sutff was a bit of thin wool cotton around the 
> >head and back shoulders of the armholes, and in the top/back head of the 
> >sleeve (wool sleeve) to get a good lay on the armhole head. Hand stitched 
> >twill tape along any diagonal 'fold/roll' lines, meaning if there's a 
> >lapel type feature on the jacket, you could reinforce the roll line. If 
> >not, you can just hand stitch the twill tape to just the fold/roll line of 
> >the 'collar'. There was twill tape around the jacket armhole, at the 
> >stress point of button holes the fold/roll line of the hems of both the 
> >jacket and sleeves. 
> > 
> >The collar wool and lining was sewn together and then inset onto the neck 
> >of the wool jacket, then the lining whould be sewn over all the 
> >thicknesses of collar and wool jacket down the fronts. To be sure you 
> >have a better time of turning the coat (not distort the lining armhole), 
> >you might want to leave part of the jacket hem unsewn (if you plan on 
> >sewing the lining and the wool together at the hem), so you can pull it 
> >right side out that way, and not through the armhole. 
> > 
> >Sew the sleeve wool and lining together and inset into armhole (this is 
> >the time where you'd insert the thin layer of wool cotton, for fillng out 
> >the sleeve. Don't put too much!). Handsew lining down. If you are hem 
> >finishing the jacket wool and lining, be sure to sew anchoring loops at 
> >the hem. 
> > 
> >Anyhow, I hope this helps. and hopefully i have not mixed things up, as 
> >I'm due to work in 5 minutes! 
> 
> 
> I would have thought that for a sailor's jacket, the above is not entirely 
> necessary. I have not found such modern tailoring before c1830 (ish!). The 
> lining and interlining of 18th century coats is not the same as modern 
> coats - there is a diagram in "Cut of Men's Clothes" which shows much of 
> the padding etc. required for an upper class coat, and I think I have seen 
> another for a child's coat. From a purely practical point of view I would 
> not have thought this would be done for a sailor's coat. 
> 
> Suzi 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question
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>
>> How much is your line in the sand for repairing an old good machine?
>>
>
you know, I wasn't going to answer this thread, since all the answers so
far have echoed my sentiments, but I think I would like to say here, that
just about the only reason to get rid of such a good machine, in my
opinion is if parts just become unavailable and I couldn't find a decent
parts machine in a couple years afterward.

I mean think about it.  this is a machine with no built in obsolescence,
as far as I can see.   it is built to last. and as far as I can see, there
are no real inovations in sewing machines since the zigzag, except maybe
the stretch stitch.   So why not fix it as long as possible?   anything
you could replace it with would be a lesser machine or MUCH more
expensive.   and it will STILL need repair, so you'd be paying extra for
the priviledge of taking care of a different machine.

So, there, FWIW, is my opinion.   Kitty


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sequence of events for sewing jacket together
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At 16:31 07/05/2005 +0000, you wrote:
>You may be quite right.  I'm sorry if I've given our bad or wrong 
>construction information for 1830 ish clothing...1830 ish is not my period.
>
>My reply is purely from a informational perspective, of what I've seen 
>done in tailoring.


Greg is an 18th century sailor/pirate - I made him a coat a few years ago 
when he lived in England!! The information you give I should have said 
thanks for, as it reinforces my later tailoring efforts.



>-------------- Original message --------------
>
> > At 18:55 04/05/2005 +0000, you wrote:
> > >Hhhm. It depends on how much work you'll want to put into it. Years ago
> > >I took apart a couture men's jacket and found lots of interal stuff that
> > >just were too cool
> > >
> > >Sew the wool jacket body together with out the collar and sleeves; same
> > >for lining. The internal sutff was a bit of thin wool cotton around the
> > >head and back shoulders of the armholes, and in the top/back head of the
> > >sleeve (wool sleeve) to get a good lay on the armhole head. Hand stitched
> > >twill tape along any diagonal 'fold/roll' lines, meaning if there's a
> > >lapel type feature on the jacket, you could reinforce the roll line. If
> > >not, you can just hand stitch the twill tape to just the fold/roll 
> line of
> > >the 'collar'. There was twill tape around the jacket armhole, at the
> > >stress point of button holes the fold/roll line of the hems of both the
> > >jacket and sleeves.
> > >
> > >The collar wool and lining was sewn together and then inset onto the neck
> > >of the wool jacket, then the lining whould be sewn over all the
> > >thicknesses of collar and wool jacket down the fronts. To be sure you
> > >have a better time of turning the coat (not distort the lining armhole),
> > >you might want to leave part of the jacket hem unsewn (if you plan on
> > >sewing the lining and the wool together at the hem), so you can pull it
> > >right side out that way, and not through the armhole.
> > >
> > >Sew the sleeve wool and lining together and inset into armhole (this is
> > >the time where you'd insert the thin layer of wool cotton, for fillng out
> > >the sleeve. Don't put too much!). Handsew lining down. If you are hem
> > >finishing the jacket wool and lining, be sure to sew anchoring loops at
> > >the hem.
> > >
> > >Anyhow, I hope this helps. and hopefully i have not mixed things up, as
> > >I'm due to work in 5 minutes!
> >
> >
> > I would have thought that for a sailor's jacket, the above is not entirely
> > necessary. I have not found such modern tailoring before c1830 (ish!). The
> > lining and interlining of 18th century coats is not the same as modern
> > coats - there is a diagram in "Cut of Men's Clothes" which shows much of
> > the padding etc. required for an upper class coat, and I think I have seen
> > another for a child's coat. From a purely practical point of view I would
> > not have thought this would be done for a sailor's coat.
> >
> > Suzi
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question
Date: Sat, 7 May 2005 14:12:30 -0400
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Kitty, you are so right.  My Beloved Kenmore, as I have said in the past,
was my (still first) best investment ever.  But the very suggestion that
parts might not be available for ever was exactly my reason for finally
breaking down and getting something newer.  When the motor had to be
replaced, it took my very faithful Sears repairman 6 weeks to locate the
small machine motor and there was a gear assembly that he also thought I
should replace before it too became obsolete.  So, since he was working on
All sewing machines, I asked him which machines were the least frequent on
his list for repair. The Pfaff Jeans and Satin was one of his
recommendations for 'semi automatic' reliability.

I will also add, that in March I picked up a Kenmore 158.3180 virtually new,
but without anything but the power cord, in a thrift shop for $20.  You can
believe that I snatched it up and am collecting the necessary pieces like
the buttonhole plate and cam knob from E-bay for far less than these pieces
are available from Sears.  This machine sold for about$500 new in the mid
1980's.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <basyefelton@floodcity.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2005 12:45 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question


> >
> >> How much is your line in the sand for repairing an old good machine?
> >>
> >
> you know, I wasn't going to answer this thread, since all the answers so
> far have echoed my sentiments, but I think I would like to say here, that
> just about the only reason to get rid of such a good machine, in my
> opinion is if parts just become unavailable and I couldn't find a decent
> parts machine in a couple years afterward.
>
> I mean think about it.  this is a machine with no built in obsolescence,
> as far as I can see.   it is built to last. and as far as I can see, there
> are no real inovations in sewing machines since the zigzag, except maybe
> the stretch stitch.   So why not fix it as long as possible?   anything
> you could replace it with would be a lesser machine or MUCH more
> expensive.   and it will STILL need repair, so you'd be paying extra for
> the priviledge of taking care of a different machine.
>
> So, there, FWIW, is my opinion.   Kitty
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat May  7 14:16:17 2005
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question
Date: Sat, 7 May 2005 14:17:20 -0400
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Oh, and did you do another Tea this year?  I attended one a couple of weeks
ago. I was the "Program".  I brought some 'show and tell' items re the Tea
Table, and used readings from some of my 19th C Etiquette books.  Lots of
fun.

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <basyefelton@floodcity.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2005 12:45 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question


> >
> >> How much is your line in the sand for repairing an old good machine?
> >>
> >
> you know, I wasn't going to answer this thread, since all the answers so
> far have echoed my sentiments, but I think I would like to say here, that
> just about the only reason to get rid of such a good machine, in my
> opinion is if parts just become unavailable and I couldn't find a decent
> parts machine in a couple years afterward.
>
> I mean think about it.  this is a machine with no built in obsolescence,
> as far as I can see.   it is built to last. and as far as I can see, there
> are no real inovations in sewing machines since the zigzag, except maybe
> the stretch stitch.   So why not fix it as long as possible?   anything
> you could replace it with would be a lesser machine or MUCH more
> expensive.   and it will STILL need repair, so you'd be paying extra for
> the priviledge of taking care of a different machine.
>
> So, there, FWIW, is my opinion.   Kitty
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat May  7 15:11:41 2005
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It seems like the list has been slow lately.  Is there an event going on? 
Are people just out enjoying the spring weather instead of playing on the
computer?

Just curious....

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slow list...
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At 12:10 07/05/2005 -0700, you wrote:

>It seems like the list has been slow lately.  Is there an event going on?
>Are people just out enjoying the spring weather instead of playing on the
>computer?
>
>Just curious....
>
>Diana


Mine is coming in "chunks"  - a lot all at once, then nothing. I fear there 
is a "chunk" missing in the ether though!!

Suzi


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Subject: [h-cost] Query re 17th century bodices
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Can anyone suggest other sources for studying 17th century (English and 
European, or N. American) ladies' bodices than the following. I have an 
extensive collection of general books such as Boucher, Tilke, James 
Laver,and others (senior moment as I cannot remember the name of the big 
maroon one! - yay Millia Davenport.)

I have

Cut of Women's Clothes
Arnold
Hunnisett
Historic Costume in Detail   Hart and North
Danish book on Christian lV which has a bodice.
Small handbooks from the London Museum (all of them)


I would prefer photos of originals, rather than re-drawings, good though 
those listed above are.

Thanking you in hopes.

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1950s clothing term
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In a message dated 5/7/2005 7:35:41 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
generys@blazemail.com writes:

The  first part sounds more like they're talking about food - a boiled might
be  short for "a boiled dinner" -


That does seem to make more sense from the context.  I believe that  the "New 
England boiled dinner" was sometimes made on Saturday, to eat cold on  
Sunday, so one did not violate the Sabbath by cooking.
 
Ann Wass
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Morning,

I hoping some of you theatre people can help with sources for unusual 
makeup colors. I need red eyeshadow and gold lipstick. I've already been 
through the chain pharmacies and beauty supply and the mainstream makeup 
lines just don't have these items. I did get a red eyeliner from 
Wet-n-Wild, but they just don't carry the "wild" end of things anymore 
(around here anyway).

I'm looking for a really yellow bright metallic gold lipstick. What I 
can find is either too subtle, too brown, or it's clear lipgloss. I need 
opaque in-your-face color.

Any suggestions?



Dawn



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> 
> The  first part sounds more like they're talking about food - a boiled might
> be  short for "a boiled dinner" -
> 
> 
>> That does seem to make more sense from the context.  I believe that  the "New 
>> England boiled dinner" was sometimes made on Saturday, to eat cold on  
>> Sunday, so one did not violate the Sabbath by cooking.
>

That was my first thought, too, except that I've *never* heard it 
refered to like that. Even my grandparents didn't call it that.

Then there's the term "collation", which is a light meal, something a 
boiled dinner certainly is not.



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for makeup
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> Morning,
>
> I hoping some of you theatre people can help with sources for unusual
> makeup colors. I need red eyeshadow and gold lipstick. I've already been
> through the chain pharmacies and beauty supply and the mainstream makeup
> lines just don't have these items. I did get a red eyeliner from
> Wet-n-Wild, but they just don't carry the "wild" end of things anymore
> (around here anyway).
>
> I'm looking for a really yellow bright metallic gold lipstick. What I
> can find is either too subtle, too brown, or it's clear lipgloss. I need
> opaque in-your-face color.
>
> Any suggestions?

My first idea was Halloween makeup.  I did a quick search and there are
plenty of online suppliers.  I usually stockpile in October so that I have
things all year 'round.

Theater makeup will also work but it seems like it runs more expensive
than the Halloween version.  Then again, if the makeup has to withstand a
lot of wear (i.e. many hours) then theater quality makeup may be best for
you.

Good luck!

BTW...what are you going to wear it for?

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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I asked him which
> machines were the least frequent on his list for repair. The Pfaff Jeans
> and Satin was one of his
> recommendations for 'semi automatic' reliability.
>

This is good to know, thanks.  Kitty

> I will also add, that in March I picked up a Kenmore 158.3180 virtually
> new, but without anything but the power cord, in a thrift shop for $20.
> You can believe that I snatched it up and am collecting the necessary
> pieces like the buttonhole plate and cam knob from E-bay for far less
> than these pieces are available from Sears.  This machine sold for
> about$500 new in the mid 1980's.
>
> Kathleen

You know, anytime I find a machine which gives me the sturdy reliability,
or I should say that any machine which reminds me of the ones which have
given me the sturdy reliability that the Necchi and the Kenmore do, I snap
them up.  I have three girls, two of whom sew and all "borrow" machines
from me.  NO ONE gets the necchi so they have to make do with what I have
as my backup machines.   I also provide to the girls of our church, so I
am always on the look out for these machines.   I just wish I could find
homes for the black single stitch machines I have, they so need some
loving care.   I would love to fix them up as handcranks if I knew where
they could find homes.

 LOL  Kitty


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Have you tried the costume rental stores in your area? If that fails, 
you could always order it online. A quick google search for "theatrical 
makeup" turned up quite a few places.

With luck, someone on this list will now how you make them yourself.

Best of luck!

Dawn wrote:
> Morning,
> 
> I hoping some of you theatre people can help with sources for unusual 
> makeup colors. I need red eyeshadow and gold lipstick. I've already been 
> through the chain pharmacies and beauty supply and the mainstream makeup 
> lines just don't have these items. I did get a red eyeliner from 
> Wet-n-Wild, but they just don't carry the "wild" end of things anymore 
> (around here anyway).
> 
> I'm looking for a really yellow bright metallic gold lipstick. What I 
> can find is either too subtle, too brown, or it's clear lipgloss. I need 
> opaque in-your-face color.
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> 
> Dawn
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Query re 17th century bodices
References: <20050430220047.46072.qmail@web25704.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>	<20050430220047.46072.qmail@web25704.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
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At least one of the Fashion in Detail books have some up close shots of 
extant garments, a few of which are bodices.
Sg

Suzi Clarke wrote:

>
> Can anyone suggest other sources for studying 17th century (English 
> and European, or N. American) ladies' bodices than the following. I 
> have an extensive collection of general books such as Boucher, Tilke, 
> James Laver,and others (senior moment as I cannot remember the name of 
> the big maroon one! - yay Millia Davenport.)
>
> I have
>
> Cut of Women's Clothes
> Arnold
> Hunnisett
> Historic Costume in Detail   Hart and North
> Danish book on Christian lV which has a bodice.
> Small handbooks from the London Museum (all of them)
>
>
> I would prefer photos of originals, rather than re-drawings, good 
> though those listed above are.
>
> Thanking you in hopes.
>
> Suzi
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Crystal Gold" <kiri@telus.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] looking for makeup
Date: Sat, 7 May 2005 18:12:37 -0700
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Have you tried Make Up Forever?
They over a great range of high-quality makeup in "unusual" colours.

-Crystal.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: May 7, 2005 3:34 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] looking for makeup


Morning,

I hoping some of you theatre people can help with sources for unusual
makeup colors. I need red eyeshadow and gold lipstick. I've already been
through the chain pharmacies and beauty supply and the mainstream makeup
lines just don't have these items. I did get a red eyeliner from
Wet-n-Wild, but they just don't carry the "wild" end of things anymore
(around here anyway).

I'm looking for a really yellow bright metallic gold lipstick. What I
can find is either too subtle, too brown, or it's clear lipgloss. I need
opaque in-your-face color.

Any suggestions?



Dawn



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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question
Date: Sat, 7 May 2005 21:31:38 -0400
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Kitty wrote:
<snip>
I just wish I could find
homes for the black single stitch machines I have, they so need some
loving care.   I would love to fix them up as handcranks if I knew where
they could find homes.

Reply:  Umn, Kitty, where are you?  I am one of a number of folks who
collect the old black straight stitchers.  What models do you have?  You can
email me off list if you wish.  megan at benchite dot com is the address.
If you are nowhere near me, well, I might know somebody close enough to
help.
-Megan


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>
> Reply:  Umn, Kitty, where are you?  I am one of a number of folks who
> collect the old black straight stitchers.  What models do you have?  You
> can email me off list if you wish.  megan at benchite dot com is the
> address. If you are nowhere near me, well, I might know somebody close
> enough to help.
> -Megan
>
> I have two model 15 clones from the fifties, and two model 66's.   I'm
not sure what else I have but those are the ones that come to mind. 
They are the ones which are true orphans, they were seperated from their
treadles when the antique dealer/butcher I got them from made end tables
out of their cabinets and bases.

Kitty, in SW Pennsylvania.


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I have learnt an object lesson today - whenever someone is borrowing costuming on short notice, no matter if they say 'oh, I only need such-and-such item,' I will henceforth make sure that I have EVERY SINGLE PIECE OF COSTUMING IN MY POSSESSION ready and available, because as sure as God made little green apples, such-and-such item will NOT be the only item that the borrower will need! ( Can't half tell what happened in our house this morning, can you? ;-} ) 

Re-enactors!!!!! *growl* *gnash teeth* 

Honestly, I sometimes think that half of them couldn't organise their way out of a wet paper bag.

Sorry about the grumble, but I had to vent! ( By the way, I am casting no aspersions on re-enactors I don't know, I am chucking nasturtiums at some of the ones I know too well e.g the ones involved in this mornings' little farce! )

Thanks for listening. I feel better now. =)

Joannah. 
( who is now off to play taxi service to said re-enactors *quiet growl* )



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Actually, this was answered earlier by a couple of people on the list -- it's a reference to a "boiled shirt," which is a stiffly starched, formal white dress shirt -- having that much of the term, I then googled it, and found out lots and lots I didn't know before!  Isn't this a great list?!
 
:)
KP

AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

In a message dated 5/7/2005 7:35:41 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
generys@blazemail.com writes:

The first part sounds more like they're talking about food - a boiled might
be short for "a boiled dinner" -


That does seem to make more sense from the context. I believe that the "New 
England boiled dinner" was sometimes made on Saturday, to eat cold on 
Sunday, so one did not violate the Sabbath by cooking.

Ann Wass
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Greetings,

I just saw Kingdom of Heaven and am wondering about the costumes that the leading actress wore. They were so beautiful.
I would like to make something for an Arabian Nights event and am wondering how accurate they would be for referance.

Thank You for your wisdom and input.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Query re 17th century bodices
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>
> Can anyone suggest other sources for studying 17th century (English and
> European, or N. American) ladies' bodices than the following.

Not for study but for pure costuming drool-ability....you must see Queen
Margot.  It is french with english subtitles.  The dresses in the movie
are to die for!  Just ignore the ones that are fetish/raunchy.  But the
ones that are supposed to be historical are beautiful.

By the way, the movie is a bit, um, sexual.  Just a warning.

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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LOL, no, I would have liked to, but I am sticking to smaller tea occasions
til my life settles down a bit.   I don't know if I mentioned it but last
year, just in time for my tea, I inherited two grandchildren since their
parents were incapacitated.    They are getting their lives back together
now, but I still have a very hectic day most days and cannot plan my days
very well.  I am lucky if I can make it to the doctors for my appts
without having to reschedule a couple times.    So this year, I'm not
doing a churchwide tea, but I do have  a few people over now and then, and
intend to make it more formal as soon as I get my house in order.

This year another daughter intends to get married and I am making a
walking skirt and a jacket to go with it.   I am going to be making myself
a corset in the next few weeks, then the skirt then the blouse.   I am
planning to make the corset in linen with either cording or boning, can't
make up my mind.   I want to have a smooth line, with no rolling, but also
to be as comfortable as possible and heat is my biggest problem in August.

Last time she got married I wore an all in one elastic garment and the
whole bottom rolled up to my waist.  try about six layers of elastic
around your waist for five hours.   LOL  Kitty



> Oh, and did you do another Tea this year?  I attended one a couple of
> weeks ago. I was the "Program".  I brought some 'show and tell' items re
> the Tea Table, and used readings from some of my 19th C Etiquette books.
>  Lots of fun.
>
> Kathleen
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <basyefelton@floodcity.net>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2005 12:45 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question
>
>
>> >
>> >> How much is your line in the sand for repairing an old good
>> machine?
>> >>
>> >
>> you know, I wasn't going to answer this thread, since all the answers
>> so far have echoed my sentiments, but I think I would like to say
>> here, that just about the only reason to get rid of such a good
>> machine, in my opinion is if parts just become unavailable and I
>> couldn't find a decent parts machine in a couple years afterward.
>>
>> I mean think about it.  this is a machine with no built in
>> obsolescence, as far as I can see.   it is built to last. and as far
>> as I can see, there are no real inovations in sewing machines since
>> the zigzag, except maybe the stretch stitch.   So why not fix it as
>> long as possible?   anything you could replace it with would be a
>> lesser machine or MUCH more expensive.   and it will STILL need
>> repair, so you'd be paying extra for the priviledge of taking care of
>> a different machine.
>>
>> So, there, FWIW, is my opinion.   Kitty
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>
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On Saturday 07 May 2005 6:33 pm, Dawn wrote:
> Morning,
>
> I hoping some of you theatre people can help with sources for unusual
> makeup colors. I need red eyeshadow and gold lipstick. I've already been
> through the chain pharmacies and beauty supply and the mainstream makeup
> lines just don't have these items. I did get a red eyeliner from
> Wet-n-Wild, but they just don't carry the "wild" end of things anymore
> (around here anyway).
>
> I'm looking for a really yellow bright metallic gold lipstick. What I
> can find is either too subtle, too brown, or it's clear lipgloss. I need
> opaque in-your-face color.
>
> Any suggestions?


There's got to be someplace on the Internet you can buy these things, and 
more...


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun May  8 07:36:41 2005
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From: "Cabbage Rose Costumes" <cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for makeup
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Have you checked M.A.C.?  They have strong colors and the pro shop has red 
in shadow & pigments.  I think they also have some gold lip glosses, etc. 
If your not happy with what you find at M.A.C., try a Sephora, which has all 
the brands in one place.

My daughter is a makeup artist, so if you still don't find what you're 
looking for, I can get you more info.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
W. Shakespeare

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2005 3:33 PM
Subject: [h-cost] looking for makeup


> Morning,
>
> I hoping some of you theatre people can help with sources for unusual 
> makeup colors. I need red eyeshadow and gold lipstick. I've already been 
> through the chain pharmacies and beauty supply and the mainstream makeup 
> lines just don't have these items. I did get a red eyeliner from 
> Wet-n-Wild, but they just don't carry the "wild" end of things anymore 
> (around here anyway).
>
> I'm looking for a really yellow bright metallic gold lipstick. What I can 
> find is either too subtle, too brown, or it's clear lipgloss. I need 
> opaque in-your-face color.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Sun, 08 May 2005 12:43:42 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Query re 17th century bodices
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At 15:01 07/05/2005 -0700, you wrote:

> >
> > Can anyone suggest other sources for studying 17th century (English and
> > European, or N. American) ladies' bodices than the following.
>
>Not for study but for pure costuming drool-ability....you must see Queen
>Margot.  It is french with english subtitles.  The dresses in the movie
>are to die for!  Just ignore the ones that are fetish/raunchy.  But the
>ones that are supposed to be historical are beautiful.
>
>By the way, the movie is a bit, um, sexual.  Just a warning.
>
>Diana


Thank you - I did see it - such beautiful faces too - and it made me want 
to know more about the history of that time in France.

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for makeup
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Have  you  considered using lipstick for the eyeshadow and gold
eyeshadow for the lipstick?

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
--- Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com> wrote:
From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
Date: Sat, 7 May 2005 20:34:08 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for makeup
On Saturday 07 May 2005 6:33 pm, Dawn wrote:
> Morning,
>
> I hoping some of you theatre people can help with sources for
unusual
>  makeup  colors. I need red eyeshadow and gold lipstick. I've
already been
>  through  the  chain  pharmacies  and  beauty  supply and the
mainstream makeup
>  lines  just don't have these items. I did get a red eyeliner
from
>  Wet-n-Wild,  but  they  just  don't  carry the "wild" end of
things anymore
> (around here anyway).
>
>  I'm  looking  for  a  really  yellow  bright  metallic  gold
lipstick. What I
>  can  find  is  either  too  subtle, too brown, or it's clear
lipgloss. I need
> opaque in-your-face color.
>
> Any suggestions?
There's  got  to be someplace on the Internet you can buy these
things, and
more...
--
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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> Have  you  considered using lipstick for the eyeshadow and gold
> eyeshadow for the lipstick?
>
> Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


Gold powder eyeshadow works very well as lipstick, you just put a base of
lipgloss on first to give the powder something to stick to, this would even
have much better staying power than lipstick.

You have to be *very* careful when using red near your eyes though, many red
dyes can cause infection and blindness. I would search out actual red eye
makeup, as it's made specifically for that purpose, and therefore safe to be
near your eyes.

Just my two bits,
Sheridan :-)


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Try  MUD - Makeup Designory, Los Angeles School of make-up.
I googled "mud makeup design" .  It's a school in Los Angeles that has 
programs in theatre, film, and regular makeup.  I was fascinated at their 
booth at the USITT conference in Toronto. Their books show how to do all 
sorts of things.
Kate
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Crystal Gold" <kiri@telus.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2005 9:12 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] looking for makeup


> Have you tried Make Up Forever?
> They over a great range of high-quality makeup in "unusual" colours.
>
> -Crystal.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Dawn
> Sent: May 7, 2005 3:34 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] looking for makeup
>
>
> Morning,
>
> I hoping some of you theatre people can help with sources for unusual
> makeup colors. I need red eyeshadow and gold lipstick. I've already been
> through the chain pharmacies and beauty supply and the mainstream makeup
> lines just don't have these items. I did get a red eyeliner from
> Wet-n-Wild, but they just don't carry the "wild" end of things anymore
> (around here anyway).
>
> I'm looking for a really yellow bright metallic gold lipstick. What I
> can find is either too subtle, too brown, or it's clear lipgloss. I need
> opaque in-your-face color.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> --
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> 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun May  8 11:36:21 2005
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Just try http://www.makeupschool.com/ and see the face that comes up!
Kate
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Crystal Gold" <kiri@telus.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2005 9:12 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] looking for makeup


> Have you tried Make Up Forever?
> They over a great range of high-quality makeup in "unusual" colours.
> 
> -Crystal.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Dawn
> Sent: May 7, 2005 3:34 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] looking for makeup
> 
> 
> Morning,
> 
> I hoping some of you theatre people can help with sources for unusual
> makeup colors. I need red eyeshadow and gold lipstick. I've already been
> through the chain pharmacies and beauty supply and the mainstream makeup
> lines just don't have these items. I did get a red eyeliner from
> Wet-n-Wild, but they just don't carry the "wild" end of things anymore
> (around here anyway).
> 
> I'm looking for a really yellow bright metallic gold lipstick. What I
> can find is either too subtle, too brown, or it's clear lipgloss. I need
> opaque in-your-face color.
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> 
> Dawn
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun May  8 13:53:57 2005
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Date: Sun, 8 May 2005 18:51:29 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - general
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Status: RO

I have to say I just saw it and I was very impressed.  Some things were 
not accurate for the 1180s, and I suspect hoping for hose instead of 
trousers is a lost cause, but there was nothing horribly jarring. 
Nothing totally fantasy, nothing that had been over-elaborated, or 
over-grunged, to make it look "more medieval" and just end up more 
Hollywood.  Of course, long Crusader robes and surcoats look very sexy 
on their own account (or have I been a Norman too long?) but I thought 
it was an excellent overall impression of the period.  One for the 
costume movie bookshelf.

Jean


mischele1 <mischele1@cox.net> wrote
>Greetings,
>
>I just saw Kingdom of Heaven and am wondering about the costumes that 
>the leading actress wore. They were so beautiful.
>I would like to make something for an Arabian Nights event and am 
>wondering how accurate they would be for referance.
>
>Thank You for your wisdom and input.
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

-- 
Jean Waddie
_______________________________________________
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun May  8 13:54:17 2005
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - general
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I have to say I just saw it and I was very impressed.  Some things were 
not accurate for the 1180s, and I suspect hoping for hose instead of 
trousers is a lost cause, but there was nothing horribly jarring. 
Nothing totally fantasy, nothing that had been over-elaborated, or 
over-grunged, to make it look "more medieval" and just end up more 
Hollywood.  Of course, long Crusader robes and surcoats look very sexy 
on their own account (or have I been a Norman too long?) but I thought 
it was an excellent overall impression of the period.  One for the 
costume movie bookshelf.

Jean


mischele1 <mischele1@cox.net> wrote
>Greetings,
>
>I just saw Kingdom of Heaven and am wondering about the costumes that 
>the leading actress wore. They were so beautiful.
>I would like to make something for an Arabian Nights event and am 
>wondering how accurate they would be for referance.
>
>Thank You for your wisdom and input.
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

-- 
Jean Waddie
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Jean Waddie wrote:

> I have to say I just saw it and I was very impressed.  Some things were 
> not accurate for the 1180s, and I suspect hoping for hose instead of 
> trousers is a lost cause

Yeah, sigh.  I'm looking forward to seeing the movie, though.

Hey, just as a sanity check, folks -- does anyone know of any evidence 
of trousers for men in England in the 1200s?  I'm having this online 
argument, see, and someone thinks I'm insane, but I'm fairly sure they 
didn't have them.

(Of course my biggest problem with the argument is that it's a 
public/mundane forum and the person has said "I'm in the SCA, I'd know. 
We have to have authentic documentation for everything...")

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

A multimillion-dollar ad campaign blames Democrats for the fact that 
"courtrooms sit empty." In fact, there are now half as many judicial 
vacancies as when Bush took office. And of the 46 federal judgeships 
that remain vacant, Bush has named only 16 replacements.  -- Factcheck.org
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Kingdom of Heaven - general
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I completely agree with this. I loved the long surcotes, the silk, the 
armour! Seeing Saddil F. acting again was also a HUGE bonus. He did a 
fantastic job!

But that Saracen armour, OMG, now I want to hit the shop and just produce!!!

(`'ˇ.¸(`'ˇ.¸(`'ˇ.¸¸.ˇ'´)¸.ˇ '´)¸.ˇ'´)
Ťˇ.ˇ*¨`ˇ¤ Chiara ¤ˇ´¨*ˇ.ˇť
(¸.ˇ'´(¸.ˇ'´(¸.ˇ'´`'ˇ.¸)`'ˇ .¸)`'ˇ.¸)
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jean Waddie" <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2005 12:51 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - general


:I have to say I just saw it and I was very impressed.  Some things were
: not accurate for the 1180s, and I suspect hoping for hose instead of
: trousers is a lost cause, but there was nothing horribly jarring.
: Nothing totally fantasy, nothing that had been over-elaborated, or
: over-grunged, to make it look "more medieval" and just end up more
: Hollywood.  Of course, long Crusader robes and surcoats look very sexy
: on their own account (or have I been a Norman too long?) but I thought
: it was an excellent overall impression of the period.  One for the
: costume movie bookshelf.
:
: Jean
:
:
: mischele1 <mischele1@cox.net> wrote
: >Greetings,
: >
: >I just saw Kingdom of Heaven and am wondering about the costumes that
: >the leading actress wore. They were so beautiful.
: >I would like to make something for an Arabian Nights event and am
: >wondering how accurate they would be for referance.
: >
: >Thank You for your wisdom and input.

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - tangent
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At 14:10 08/05/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>Jean Waddie wrote:
>
>>I have to say I just saw it and I was very impressed.  Some things were 
>>not accurate for the 1180s, and I suspect hoping for hose instead of 
>>trousers is a lost cause
>
>Yeah, sigh.  I'm looking forward to seeing the movie, though.
>
>Hey, just as a sanity check, folks -- does anyone know of any evidence of 
>trousers for men in England in the 1200s?  I'm having this online 
>argument, see, and someone thinks I'm insane, but I'm fairly sure they 
>didn't have them.
>
>(Of course my biggest problem with the argument is that it's a 
>public/mundane forum and the person has said "I'm in the SCA, I'd know. We 
>have to have authentic documentation for everything...")
>
>--


Not quite late enough I know, but some people seem to think that the 
"Bayeux Tapestry" shows Norman knights and foot soldiers in trousers. I 
don't have the reference unfortunately, but looked at some pictures and 
thought they could be right. Considering the tapestry was woven at the end 
of the 11th century, they *could* have spilled into the 12th?

What about the book on Anglo Saxon clothing by ??Gail ....Crocker? - sorry, 
early medieval is not my thing.

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - tangent
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On Sunday 08 May 2005 2:15 pm, Suzi Clarke wrote:
[snip]

> What about the book on Anglo Saxon clothing by ??Gail ....Crocker? - sorry,
> early medieval is not my thing.

Dress in Anglo-Saxon England by Dr. Gale Owen-Crocker is what you're thinking 
of.  
-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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Subject: [h-cost] studying 17th century bodices
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Patts from real garments in fabulous collections:
Norah Waugh, The Cut of Women's Clothes
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

> Can anyone suggest other sources for studying 17th century (English
> and European, or N. American) ladies' bodices than the following. I
> have an extensive collection of general books such as Boucher, Tilke,
> James Laver,and others (senior moment as I cannot remember the name of
> the big maroon one! - yay Millia Davenport.)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - tangent
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I just went through my copy of the Bayeux Tapest book and it looks more like tunics split for horseback riding over hose than pants.  There is trim that goes down the front and around the bottom of many of them that would appear rather strange on pants, but is often done on split garments.  None of them goes below the knee either.  I am in SCA and I wouldn't use that as documentation for pants for that period, but then I am way too fussy about my research.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:

From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 08 May 2005 19:15:14 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - tangent

At 14:10 08/05/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>Jean Waddie wrote:
>
>>I have to say I just saw it and I was very impressed.  Some things were 
>>not accurate for the 1180s, and I suspect hoping for hose instead of 
>>trousers is a lost cause
>
>Yeah, sigh.  I'm looking forward to seeing the movie, though.
>
>Hey, just as a sanity check, folks -- does anyone know of any evidence of 
>trousers for men in England in the 1200s?  I'm having this online 
>argument, see, and someone thinks I'm insane, but I'm fairly sure they 
>didn't have them.
>
>(Of course my biggest problem with the argument is that it's a 
>public/mundane forum and the person has said "I'm in the SCA, I'd know. We 
>have to have authentic documentation for everything...")
>
>--


Not quite late enough I know, but some people seem to think that the 
"Bayeux Tapestry" shows Norman knights and foot soldiers in trousers. I 
don't have the reference unfortunately, but looked at some pictures and 
thought they could be right. Considering the tapestry was woven at the end 
of the 11th century, they *could* have spilled into the 12th?

What about the book on Anglo Saxon clothing by ??Gail ....Crocker? - sorry, 
early medieval is not my thing.

Suzi


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At 11:32 08/05/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>Patts from real garments in fabulous collections:
>Norah Waugh, The Cut of Women's Clothes
>--cin
>Cynthia Barnes
>CinBarnes@gmail.com
>
> > Can anyone suggest other sources for studying 17th century (English
> > and European, or N. American) ladies' bodices than the following. I
> > have an extensive collection of general books such as Boucher, Tilke,
> > James Laver,and others (senior moment as I cannot remember the name of
> > the big maroon one! - yay Millia Davenport.)


Thanks but I thought I mentioned that I had a copy of this book, plus 
Arnold and Hunnisett.

Suzi


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - tangent
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At 14:27 08/05/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>On Sunday 08 May 2005 2:15 pm, Suzi Clarke wrote:
>[snip]
>
> > What about the book on Anglo Saxon clothing by ??Gail ....Crocker? - sorry,
> > early medieval is not my thing.
>
>Dress in Anglo-Saxon England by Dr. Gale Owen-Crocker is what you're thinking
>of.
>--
>Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>


Thank you for jogging my memory - not my period as I said.

Suzi


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - tangent
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Status: RO

Some of them do look rather like shortie romper suits, but they are 
always the same colour top and legs, so they couldn't be trousers, ie 
something that only comes up to the waist.  I think it would be fair to 
say all authoritative opinion considers them to be representing 
front-and-back split tunics and mailshirts.  But wouldn't it be great to 
turn up to an event in your romper suit?  ;-)

The answer for Cynthia - it's impossible to prove a negative, she has to 
show her positive sources.

Jean

Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com> wrote
>I just went through my copy of the Bayeux Tapest book and it looks more 
>like tunics split for horseback riding over hose than pants.  There is 
>trim that goes down the front and around the bottom of many of them 
>that would appear rather strange on pants, but is often done on split 
>garments.  None of them goes below the knee either.  I am in SCA and I 
>wouldn't use that as documentation for pants for that period, but then 
>I am way too fussy about my research.
>
>Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
>
>
>--- Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
>
>From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
>Date: Sun, 08 May 2005 19:15:14 +0100
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - tangent
>
>At 14:10 08/05/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>>Jean Waddie wrote:
>>
>>>I have to say I just saw it and I was very impressed.  Some things were
>>>not accurate for the 1180s, and I suspect hoping for hose instead of
>>>trousers is a lost cause
>>
>>Yeah, sigh.  I'm looking forward to seeing the movie, though.
>>
>>Hey, just as a sanity check, folks -- does anyone know of any evidence of
>>trousers for men in England in the 1200s?  I'm having this online
>>argument, see, and someone thinks I'm insane, but I'm fairly sure they
>>didn't have them.
>>
>>(Of course my biggest problem with the argument is that it's a
>>public/mundane forum and the person has said "I'm in the SCA, I'd know. We
>>have to have authentic documentation for everything...")
>>
>>--
>
>
>Not quite late enough I know, but some people seem to think that the
>"Bayeux Tapestry" shows Norman knights and foot soldiers in trousers. I
>don't have the reference unfortunately, but looked at some pictures and
>thought they could be right. Considering the tapestry was woven at the end
>of the 11th century, they *could* have spilled into the 12th?
>
>What about the book on Anglo Saxon clothing by ??Gail ....Crocker? - sorry,
>early medieval is not my thing.
>
>Suzi
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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>
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-- 
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - tangent
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Hi~!

I don't know of any hard evidence for pants in England in the 12th century. We do know that some
Viking cultures had pants (Thorsbjerg, for example) but we aren't even sure about a lot of details
there, either, and that doesn't account for _England_ -or- the 12th century.  As was mentioned,
"Dress in Anglo-Saxon England" is an excellent place to start researching. While the Bayeaux is a
wonderful piece of history, and much can be gleaned from it, it really isn't the best source to use
for exact documentation, IMHO. It's wonderful to use as a starting point which leads to further
sources, or to use as part of a more thorough set of research support documents.  

Cynthia, since your debate partner is convinced they did in fact have pants in England in the 12th
century, wouldn't it be incumbent upon them to provide the documentation necessary to support their
claim? In other words, tell them to put up or shut up! Scads of folks would be delighted to see it,
including me! ;o)  Now, its entirely possible that some of the more rural peoples continued to wear
pants instead of switching to the more Normanish hosen and braies, but we can't really be sure of
that, so we must go with what we know, or at least what we know the most about. 

FWIW, "Woven into the Earth" which documents the Greenland finds has some 13th century clothing.
They didn't find any pants there, but they did find lots of hosen. Again, it isn't England, but
it's something.

Pax,
::Linda::

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Cynthia Virtue
Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2005 2:10 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - tangent

Hey, just as a sanity check, folks -- does anyone know of any evidence 
of trousers for men in England in the 1200s?  I'm having this online 
argument, see, and someone thinks I'm insane, but I'm fairly sure they 
didn't have them.

(Of course my biggest problem with the argument is that it's a 
public/mundane forum and the person has said "I'm in the SCA, I'd know. 
We have to have authentic documentation for everything...")





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You want Ben Nye, for theatrical makeup. They have a full range, including the metallics you want. I'm looking at an old catalog right now and it doesn't have a website--if I go looking for a website I'll have to reload my e-mail program, which alas takes FOREVER.... Bob Kelley is another venerable stage-makeup company. Kryolan is a somewhat newer company. I'll leave it up to you to do a search for their addresses. Ben Nye is located in L.A.; Kryolan is in San Francisco I think. Bob Kelley is probably in California too. Bob Kelley makeup is the one that shows up most predictably in costume stores.
Good luck.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
Sent: May 8, 2005 10:00 AM
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for makeup

Have  you  considered using lipstick for the eyeshadow and gold
eyeshadow for the lipstick?

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
--- Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com> wrote:
From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
Date: Sat, 7 May 2005 20:34:08 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for makeup
On Saturday 07 May 2005 6:33 pm, Dawn wrote:
> Morning,
>
> I hoping some of you theatre people can help with sources for
unusual
>  makeup  colors. I need red eyeshadow and gold lipstick. I've
already been
>  through  the  chain  pharmacies  and  beauty  supply and the
mainstream makeup
>  lines  just don't have these items. I did get a red eyeliner
from
>  Wet-n-Wild,  but  they  just  don't  carry the "wild" end of
things anymore
> (around here anyway).
>
>  I'm  looking  for  a  really  yellow  bright  metallic  gold
lipstick. What I
>  can  find  is  either  too  subtle, too brown, or it's clear
lipgloss. I need
> opaque in-your-face color.
>
> Any suggestions?
There's  got  to be someplace on the Internet you can buy these
things, and
more...
--
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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Linda Rice wrote:

> Cynthia, since your debate partner is convinced they did in fact have pants in England in the 12th
> century, wouldn't it be incumbent upon them to provide the documentation necessary to support their
> claim?

Yep.  That's what I told ... him, I think.  I think he's wedded to the 
idea of being able to wear pants, but hasn't actually seen any 
documentation.  He's kind of defensive.

It started because of a little potentially-hoax piece going around about 
testing beer in the 1200s -- those who are curious can go read the 
genesis and the various comments; the site covers hoaxes of all sorts, 
not just medieval ones.

http://www.museumofhoaxes.com/hoax/weblog/comments/3072/

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

A multimillion-dollar ad campaign blames Democrats for the fact that 
"courtrooms sit empty." In fact, there are now half as many judicial 
vacancies as when Bush took office. And of the 46 federal judgeships 
that remain vacant, Bush has named only 16 replacements.  -- Factcheck.org
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - general 
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Have had Nige disecting it for the last day (he saw it yesterday afternoon - 
I was working).

Of course he's only into th emilitary stuff, but he said the only things 
wrong (apart from the trousers issue) were more to do with dating than just out 
and out inventions.

Debs
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - general 
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Greetings--

> Of course he's only into th emilitary stuff, but he said the only things
> wrong (apart from the trousers issue) were more to do with dating than
just out
> and out inventions.

That's the general impression I got as well.  I thought the Norman-style
helmets with the nasals perhaps slightly old-fashioned for 1184, but not
badly off, and the mail was nice (no knitted stuff visible, although someone
on another list pointed out that the mail leggings might have been
knitted--although you barely see them).  The overall look with the surcotes,
shields, etc. was quite nice.  The archers looked more 14th century to
me--not so much because of their helmets (again, on another list, apparently
those date to as far back as the 13th century) but because of their short
arming coats.   The main character spends a lot of time in a shirt that is
probably a bit on the short side for the period.

The Saracen stuff, in general, was drooly.  Beautiful armor, fabulous
banners, wonderful siege engines.  Have no idea how period, but very lovely
to look at.  You can throw the Princess' clothing into this same category.
Again, absolutely no idea whether that was at all period for an upper-class
Middle Eastern woman (or whether a woman of European descent would have
*always* "gone native"--I know they did sometimes...) but the overall look
was beautiful.  So were some of the interiors of the castles.

I also enjoyed the movie--although I'm eager to see Ridley Scott's
director's cut.  There were some parts that were a little too jumpy--for
instance, we see very little of Godfrey's (the main character's father)
travelling companions--just enough to pique our interest (there's a large
man with longish hair and a German accent, and a Saracen, among others)
before the movie moves on and focuses mainly on other things (I won't tell
how;  that would be a spoiler).  I'm hoping the longer version fleshes out
some of this.  I have to agree--this is one of the better medieval movies
I've seen in a long time, and I don't think the clothing introduced any
egregious errors such as late 13th century kilts or blue face paint :-)

Susan

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Date: Sun, 08 May 2005 21:54:36 -0400
From: J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - tangent
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He-he-he is the only comment my husband and i could make.

J Schueller
p.s. we are both in the sca

maybe this poerson is not in the same sca as we are?


Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> (Of course my biggest problem with the argument is that it's a 
> public/mundane forum and the person has said "I'm in the SCA, I'd 
> know. We have to have authentic documentation for everything...")
>


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On Sunday 08 May 2005 3:48 pm, Linda Rice wrote:
> Hi~!
>
> I don't know of any hard evidence for pants in England in the 12th century.
> We do know that some Viking cultures had pants (Thorsbjerg, for example)

The Thorsbjerg trousers are way pre-Viking; they are believed to date back to 
the third or fourth century A.D. (the Viking period is, roughly, 8th through 
10th c A.D.).  You can see a scan of a picture of them here (the software may 
ask you for a login; just hitting the "login in as a guest" button will let 
you see the discussion thread, with the picture:

http://slumberland.org/moodle/mod/forum/discuss.php?d=582

> but we aren't even sure about a lot of details there, either, 

Other than what we can glean from examining the surviving, mostly-intact 
garment itself, that is.  The Thorsjberg trousers (I'm never sure of the 
spelling so I see no reason not to use yours) appear to be very close-fitting 
footed trousers.  We know that because one of the fully-enclosed feet 
survives.  They also have very obvious belt loops.  (This is the fact that 
impressed my husband, when I showed him the picture; he thought they looked a 
lot like modern jeans.  However, they have no pockets, and no fly, unlike 
jeans of today).

If you have access to SCA Compleat Anachronist #103, the author makes an 
interesting case for the proposition that the early Irish often wore close 
fitting trousers like the Thorsjberg trousers.  

> and that 
> doesn't account for _England_ -or- the 12th century.  

True.

> As was mentioned, 
> "Dress in Anglo-Saxon England" is an excellent place to start researching.
> While the Bayeaux is a wonderful piece of history, and much can be gleaned
> from it, it really isn't the best source to use for exact documentation,
> IMHO. It's wonderful to use as a starting point which leads to further
> sources, or to use as part of a more thorough set of research support
> documents.

Yes.  "Dress in Anglo-Saxon England goes on at some length about the 
difficulty of documenting costume, especially men's costume, for this period.  
The 25-word or less summary:  Documentation is difficult because we don't 
have archaelogical remains from England for this period, and the art of the 
period is less representational than a costume historian might like....



> Cynthia, since your debate partner is convinced they did in fact have pants
> in England in the 12th century, wouldn't it be incumbent upon them to
> provide the documentation necessary to support their claim? In other words,
> tell them to put up or shut up! Scads of folks would be delighted to see
> it, including me! ;o)  Now, its entirely possible that some of the more
> rural peoples continued to wear pants instead of switching to the more
> Normanish hosen and braies, but we can't really be sure of that, so we must
> go with what we know, or at least what we know the most about.
>
> FWIW, "Woven into the Earth" which documents the Greenland finds has some
> 13th century clothing. They didn't find any pants there, but they did find
> lots of hosen. Again, it isn't England, but it's something.

True.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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At 07:38 PM 5/2/2005, you wrote:
Sorry I'm writing this a week late - just wading thru all the digests after 
our trip to Costume Con!!

>Date: Mon, 2 May 2005 11:15:53 -0500
>From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
>Subject: [h-cost] fabric stores & etc in WY, MT, ID
>
>The husband and I are planning a nice rambling trip all over Wyoming,
>Montana, and Idaho (and driving through NW Missouri and Nebraska to get
>there).  We might dip into Washington briefly, but we wouldn't be going far
>enough west to hit the Pendleton outlets.

There is a Pendleton outlet in Nebraska City, NE., if you're passing thru 
there.  It's not on the main downtown business street, but a block or two 
off it.  Lots of people go there, so just ask a local, they can direct 
you.  I personally have not been there (and live just 45 miles away, go 
figure!!)  E-mail me privately if you have more questions.

Sandy

>Are there any other fabric stores in that part of the country that are 
>worth visiting?  I'm particularly in the market for wool, linen, or silk 
>damasks and brocades, but I certainly
>wouldn't pass up nicely priced basics such as tropical weight worsteds or 
>gobs of linens.
>
>-E House

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Statu
