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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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Is there anything costume=y there (or needlework or .....)

I'll be in town in August (big Botany meeting)

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Excerpt about men's hairdressing.  Sarah is one of the servants.

...and so home, and had Sarah to comb my head clean, which I found so 
foul with powdering and other troubles, that I am resolved to try how I 
can keep my head dry without powder; and I did also in a suddaine fit 
cut off all my beard, which I had been a great while bringing up, only 
that I may with my pumice-stone do my whole face, as I now do my chin, 
and to save time, which I find a very easy way and gentile. So she also 
washed my feet in a bath of herbs, and so to bed.

All the rest of it is at 
http://www.pepysdiary.com/archive/1662/05/31/index.php

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"Before I die with a hammer in my hand,
I'm gonna get me a steam drill, too, Lord, Lord,
Get me a steam drill too!"
    -- The Smothers Brothers version of The Ballad of John Henry
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NB "Beard" in this context probably means "moustache", as full beards were not normally worn at this time.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> cvirtue+dated+1133181112.e48a2f@thibault.org 01/06/2005 13:39 >>>
Excerpt about men's hairdressing.  Sarah is one of the servants.

...and so home, and had Sarah to comb my head clean, which I found so 
foul with powdering and other troubles, that I am resolved to try how I 
can keep my head dry without powder; and I did also in a suddaine fit 
cut off all my beard, which I had been a great while bringing up, only 
that I may with my pumice-stone do my whole face, as I now do my chin, 
and to save time, which I find a very easy way and gentile. So she also 
washed my feet in a bath of herbs, and so to bed.




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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jun  1 09:43:32 2005
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Subject: [h-cost] Satin question
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Somebody mentioned satin at Ren Faires, something that
has always really bugged me for the supposed era
people are trying to dress in.  My question is this:
when exactly was the earliest known appearance of
satin, and when did it become more common?  Clearly
the 1700s is riddled with good examples but what about
before that?

This occurred to me the other day and I really haven't
delved too deeply into this yet.  I thought somebody
here might be an expert!  I'll be taking a textiles
class in the fall but I'm too impatient to wait that
long.  ;)



		
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jun  1 09:46:47 2005
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume musings
Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2005 15:44:54 +0200
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Hi Julie,
There also are some curators at museums who claimes that those costumes wich 
has survived never has ben used for some reason.
I dont agree on this, but the only proof we have to rely on are the 
paintings. And for my period 1700 there also are fashion prints. You could 
imagine that a maid of a woman of fashion would be green of envy of her 
lady's outfits, and she would struggle and do as best as she could to look 
like her lady.
Some comedians, in Denmark we have a comedy play wrighter who complainted 
that it sometimes was difficult to point out wich was the servants and wich 
were the masters, this was not ment ironicly, but a true complaint.
So it tells a little about how well dressed servants would be. Street scenes 
either printed or painted also has a lot of sources to go for when it comes 
to common people.
But then again my period is far from yours and it is much easyer because 
there are so many other sources for my period.
The difference between fashion prints and real clothes in 1700 is not far 
from eachother, so fashion prints of the 18th century is quite reliable.

Bjarne

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Julie" <jtknits@jtknits.cts.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 11:56 PM
Subject: [h-cost] costume musings


>I had kind of an "oh wow" moment this weekend.
>
> I was looking at costuming books (OK, they were the paper doll books) that 
> had representative costumes by decades starting with the 1920's through 
> the 1990's.  Now I lived through many of those decades and I can tell you 
> I didn't see much that looked like clothes I actually wore.
>
> So the big question is, how do we know what was really worn in whatever 
> period we're studying?  It seems that only very special items were saved 
> or items belonging to royalty (which makes them special).  So what were 
> real people doing when they weren't sitting for their portraits?  What 
> would be a place to look for what minor nobility or merchants really 
> wore/did?
>
> Julie
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Kate M Bunting wrote:

> NB "Beard" in this context probably means "moustache", as full beards were not normally worn at this time.

That explains why he was already using the stone on his chin!  That one 
puzzled me.

Can I post this to the glossary for the diary online?

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"Before I die with a hammer in my hand,
I'm gonna get me a steam drill, too, Lord, Lord,
Get me a steam drill too!"
    -- The Smothers Brothers version of The Ballad of John Henry
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Galadriel of Lothlorien wrote:

> when exactly was the earliest known appearance of
> satin, and when did it become more common?

Do you mean shiny satin as if made of silk?  Because the weave probably 
was used earlier.  (I have what I believe is some wool satin that my mom 
found in England a few years back.  It's glorious.)

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"Before I die with a hammer in my hand,
I'm gonna get me a steam drill, too, Lord, Lord,
Get me a steam drill too!"
    -- The Smothers Brothers version of The Ballad of John Henry
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Satin question
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There are numerous examples of satin being referred to in the catalog
portion of Queen E's Un'L. As I recall there are also various portraits
that appear to show people wearing satin. The problem with people wearing
satin at RenFaires is that they generally choose the super-shiney acetate
version that is very light and insubstantial (cheap prom dress type
stuff). To get the Elizabethan effect with satin you need to choose
something quite heavy, like the stuff they sell for lining coats, and
with a somewhat matte appearance. I know that sounds odd- matte satin,
but there is a spectrum of shininess and to look right in period you
should avoid the super shiny stuff and go for stuff with more of a
'glow'. and of course you need to get the skirt looking full enough so
you have nice luxurious folds of softly shining satin....mmmmmmm.......I
think I feel a satin Elizabethan coming on.......


Karen
Seamstrix



On Wed, 1 Jun 2005 06:42:15 -0700 (PDT) Galadriel of Lothlorien
<galadrielfinwe@yahoo.com> writes:
> Somebody mentioned satin at Ren Faires, something that
> has always really bugged me for the supposed era
> people are trying to dress in.  My question is this:
> when exactly was the earliest known appearance of
> satin, and when did it become more common?  Clearly
> the 1700s is riddled with good examples but what about
> before that?
> 
> This occurred to me the other day and I really haven't
> delved too deeply into this yet.  I thought somebody
> here might be an expert!  I'll be taking a textiles
> class in the fall but I'm too impatient to wait that
> long.  ;)
> 
> 
> 
>                 
> __________________________________ 
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By all means, but I think it's already mentioned in the notes.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> cvirtue+dated+1133185394.46599e@thibault.org 01/06/2005 14:51 >>>
Kate M Bunting wrote:

> NB "Beard" in this context probably means "moustache", as full beards were not normally worn at this time.

That explains why he was already using the stone on his chin!  That one 
puzzled me.

Can I post this to the glossary for the diary online?

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"Before I die with a hammer in my hand,
I'm gonna get me a steam drill, too, Lord, Lord,
Get me a steam drill too!"
    -- The Smothers Brothers version of The Ballad of John Henry
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At 06:42 AM 6/1/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>Somebody mentioned satin at Ren Faires, something that
>has always really bugged me for the supposed era
>people are trying to dress in.  My question is this:
>when exactly was the earliest known appearance of
>satin, and when did it become more common?  Clearly
>the 1700s is riddled with good examples but what about
>before that?
>
>This occurred to me the other day and I really haven't
>delved too deeply into this yet.  I thought somebody
>here might be an expert!  I'll be taking a textiles
>class in the fall but I'm too impatient to wait that
>long.  ;)

"Satin" is a weave that can be done in any fiber, but is especially good 
for showing off the shine of fibers like silk and fine worsted-spun 
wool.  The weave goes back to early Chinese times in silk.  So silk satins 
are perfectly appropriate for Renaissance Faires, which are generally set 
in 16th century England.  And we have inventories and other records, 
especially wills, listing satin.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net

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Whew!
I escaped that one, handily! Lovely fabric but *wrong* color for me!
--sue

otsisto wrote:

> http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code
> =15692&Category_Code=T-d&Product_Count=6
> 
> http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code
> =16901&Category_Code=UPCHES&Product_Count=7
> 
> De


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] traveling to Austin TX
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
> Is there anything costume=y there (or needlework or .....)
> I'll be in town in August (big Botany meeting)


UT Austin has a nice textiles collection:
http://www.utexas.edu/depts/he/txa/txahistoriccollect.htm
but it's only of interest for 19th & 20th century stuff.

The museums, unfortunately, seem to be all about the modern art, except for 
the Blanton Museum at UT Austin, which is closed to the public until Feb 
2006!  Sad, because they do have a really good collection.  Since it seems 
to be open to students, though, you might be able to talk someone into being 
nice!
http://www.blantonmuseum.org/

-E House


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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2005 15:44:54 +0200
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume musings
To: "Historical Costume" 
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Hi Julie,
There also are some curators at museums who claimes that those costumes wich 
has survived never has ben used for some reason.
I dont agree on this, but the only proof we have to rely on are the 
paintings. And for my period 1700 there also are fashion prints. You could 
imagine that a maid of a woman of fashion would be green of envy of her 
lady's outfits, and she would struggle and do as best as she could to look 
like her lady.
Some comedians, in Denmark we have a comedy play wrighter who complainted 
that it sometimes was difficult to point out wich was the servants and wich 
were the masters, this was not ment ironicly, but a true complaint.
So it tells a little about how well dressed servants would be. Street scenes 
either printed or painted also has a lot of sources to go for when it comes 
to common people.
But then again my period is far from yours and it is much easyer because 
there are so many other sources for my period.
The difference between fashion prints and real clothes in 1700 is not far 
from eachother, so fashion prints of the 18th century is quite reliable.

Bjarne

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Julie" 
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 11:56 PM
Subject: [h-cost] costume musings


>I had kind of an "oh wow" moment this weekend.
>
> I was looking at costuming books (OK, they were the paper doll books) that 
> had representative costumes by decades starting with the 1920's through 
> the 1990's. Now I lived through many of those decades and I can tell you 
> I didn't see much that looked like clothes I actually wore.
>
> So the big question is, how do we know what was really worn in whatever 
> period we're studying? It seems that only very special items were saved 
> or items belonging to royalty (which makes them special). So what were 
> real people doing when they weren't sitting for their portraits? What 
> would be a place to look for what minor nobility or merchants really 
> wore/did?
>
> Julie
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
Hey Bjarne, good to have you back.

The people on the street would probably have been greener than the ladies maid.  The Maid would have probably gotten some of the out of style, or unwanted dresses, especially of the very highest ladies of fashion.  Although I have not seen documents, the 18c womans list has discussed hand-me downs and the second hand trade.  To me, Any ladies maid worth her pay would have been able to re-work some of these second hand garments into something very fashionable.

Dappert in Charlotte, NC - the 18c centuries 2nd worst servant.  Wishing she knew more about the life of a ladies maid, since she frequently portrays one at reenactment in The Am Rev War South


		
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Quoting E House <formfunc@formfunction.org>:

> The museums, unfortunately, seem to be all about the modern art, except for
> the Blanton Museum at UT Austin, which is closed to the public until Feb
> 2006!  Sad, because they do have a really good collection.  Since it seems
> to be open to students, though, you might be able to talk someone into being
> nice!
> http://www.blantonmuseum.org/

The Harry Ransom Center http://www.hrc.utexas.edu/, also at UT Austin, isn't
really about modern art, but rather about modern (after the printing press)
media.  Their collection includes one of the Scarlett O'hara dresses from Gone
with the Wind, but from what's on their site, I don't think that piece is on
exhibit right now.  There may be nifty costume pictures in some of the print
collections that are on exhibit.  Wouldn't hurt to email them and ask them if
they have anything of interest to a costume historian that you could see while
you're in town.  

- Ynes/Lisa


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This reminds me...
What are some of the myths/stereotypes of costuming you've had to deal with?

The only costumes which survive are those that are from small people.  They couldn't be handed down because they were already too small. (what about children?)

People were smaller then.  Just look at all the small uniforms that have been recovered, small armor, etc.  (what about some of the 6 foot plus skeletons, etc...Abe Lincoln)  So were they mostly smaller?  Sure seems to be so in current times.  Children are often taller than their parents and grandparents.  Is it diet?  Is it genes?

Julie

----  <h-costume@indra.com> wrote:

> There also are some curators at museums who claimes that those costumes wich 
> has survived never has ben used for some reason.
> I dont agree on this, but the only proof we have to rely on are the 
> paintings. 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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>Children are often taller than their parents and grandparents.  Is it 
>diet?  Is it genes?

It is a statistical fact that the first US-born generation of children of 
Oriental immigrants to this country are larger than their parents.  It's 
probably diet, like from all that meat Americans typically eat.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Satin question
Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2005 14:05:46 -0500
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Satin is a weave. The "satin" used today at Ren fests. are not pre 1600s
unless it is made of wool or silk. (I have heard rumors to the effect of
linen satin but....)
Best thing to do is feel sorry for those in the Acetate/Nylon/polysomething
satin dress as they will be miserable on those looonnnggg hot days.

De

-----Original Message-----
Somebody mentioned satin at Ren Faires, something that
has always really bugged me for the supposed era
people are trying to dress in.  My question is this:
when exactly was the earliest known appearance of
satin, and when did it become more common?  Clearly
the 1700s is riddled with good examples but what about
before that?

This occurred to me the other day and I really haven't
delved too deeply into this yet.  I thought somebody
here might be an expert!  I'll be taking a textiles
class in the fall but I'm too impatient to wait that
long.  ;)


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>Children are often taller than their parents and grandparents. Is it 
>diet? Is it genes?

It is a statistical fact that the first US-born generation of children of 
Oriental immigrants to this country are larger than their parents. It's 
probably diet, like from all that meat Americans typically eat.

Increased fat and protein, same thing happened when McDonalds hit Japan....

		
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Costuming myths? Let's see....

"Women's shirts button the opposite way from men's because women were being dressed by maids." (In previous discussions on this list, we've established that the correlation between buttoning direction and maid service appears nonexistent; instead, it seems to have been a decision, and not always a consistent one, by early ready-to-wear garment manufacturers IIRC.)

"White wedding dresses are an ancient tradition." (Only if you define "ancient" as "Victorian"...)

"Pink is a color that was impossible to produce in the Middle Ages." (That one's simply false...)

"Only kings and queens could wear purple." (Demonstrably not true, but because it's a convention at many Renaissance Faires, a lot of people believe it.)

"There were no buttons or buttonholes in the Middle Ages." (Demonstrably not true.)

"Peasants not only sewed, but spun and wove all their own clothing." (Demonstrably not true for most times and places; cloth and second-hand clothing seem to have been available and more or less affordable over much of Europe.)

"Blackwork embroidery was always reversible."

"Built-in pockets in clothing are a modern invention."

Then there are the more pervasive myths that are seldom articulated, such as the assumption that in all times and places clothing is decorated with embroidery..... or that fitted bodices frequently expose the entire bosom.... or that folk clothing is exactly like medieval clothing....

And that's not even getting INTO the debateable ones! <g>

BTW, my favorite costume myth is one I can no longer locate the original of, which means it must be at least fifteen years since I saw it: that for warmth, medieval women frequently carried small furry animals around with them in the pockets and sleeves of their clothing.... for me at least, the mental images this produces are hilarious!

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At 11:38 AM 6/1/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>This reminds me...
>What are some of the myths/stereotypes of costuming you've had to deal with?
>
>The only costumes which survive are those that are from small 
>people.  They couldn't be handed down because they were already too small. 
>(what about children?)
>
>People were smaller then.  Just look at all the small uniforms that have 
>been recovered, small armor, etc.  (what about some of the 6 foot plus 
>skeletons, etc...Abe Lincoln)  So were they mostly smaller?  Sure seems to 
>be so in current times.  Children are often taller than their parents and 
>grandparents.  Is it diet?  Is it genes?
>
>Julie

"They" didn't have metal buttons (overheard from visitors to Ren. Faire).

Joan

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"The little bow on your bra is a holdover from corset lacing. "

I went looking for this one, and found out that comment comes out of 
Winter & Savoy's "Elizabethan Costuming".

A little more looking and I found that brassieres and corsets evolved 
concurrently through the end of the 19th century. The corset slid down 
and turned into more of what we now think of as a control-top garter. 
I've seen vintage ads for "bra and corset" sets. The bra was always a 
separate garment, supported by straps, where the corset, when it 
supported the bust, relied on boning that pushed up from the torso.

Anyway. If your bra has a bow on it, it's because the Edwardians put 
bows on everything, and the lingerie industry has continued the 
tradition of frilly female underthings.



Dawn

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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
<snip>
> Anyway. If your bra has a bow on it, it's because the Edwardians put bows 
> on everything, and the lingerie industry has continued the tradition of 
> frilly female underthings.

Yup.  If it's a holdover from anything corset related, it's a holdover from 
the corset _cover_, which often had a ribbon at the neckline.

-E the endlessly fascinated by Edwardian underthings. 

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This has been fun.  I'd love to hear more.
----  <h-costume@indra.com> wrote:

> 
> >Children are often taller than their parents and grandparents. Is it 
> >diet? Is it genes?
> 
> It is a statistical fact that the first US-born generation of children of 
> Oriental immigrants to this country are larger than their parents. It's 
> probably diet, like from all that meat Americans typically eat.

**Funny you should mention Orientals...hubby's heritage is Japanese.  His grandfather was about 5' 2" or 3", his father was about 5' 8", hubby is 5' 11" and our son is 6' 2".
 
> Increased fat and protein, same thing happened when McDonalds hit Japan....

**Wow.  I hadn't heard that.  So the Japanese, still in Japan are taller?
 
> I have a book on the early days of New Orleans where, in 1735 a
> commander of the French fort complains about the troops that have been
> sent to him are practically dwarves: "There are but one or two men among
> them whose size is above five feet, and as to the rest, they are under
> four feet ten inches." 

**That's tiny for adult males.  Where were they born?  France?
  
> 
> As for Abe Lincoln, he grew up in the new world, where food was much
> more plentiful, and his family was reasonably well-off. 

**I thought he "wasn't" reasonably well-off...the log cabin thing and all that?  Is that another myth?
 
> That said, I wonder why I can't ever find Victorian-era gloves that
> aren't ridiculously tiny. Was diet so bad even among the kid-glove
> wearing crowd?

**Amen to that.  I'm plus size by today's standards - both height and weight.  We joke about going back in time but I think folks back then wouldn't have known what to make of the lady giant in their midst <G>. 
> 
> 
> I also heard (about 5 years ago) of a study that showed that there was a 
> higher percentage of weddings in taller males than in shorter ones. From 
> what I recall, they didn't push the study far enough to state that this had an influence on gene transmittal.

**Interesting.  I vaguely recall something like that too.
 
> Costuming myths? Let's see....
> 
> "Women's shirts button the opposite way from men's because women were being dressed by maids." (In previous discussions on this list, we've established that the correlation between buttoning direction and maid service appears nonexistent; instead, it seems to have been a decision, and not always a consistent one, by early ready-to-wear garment manufacturers IIRC.)

**Ulp - I thought it was something about keeping the sword arm free.  Another myth?
> 
> "White wedding dresses are an ancient tradition." (Only if you define "ancient" as "Victorian"...)
> 
> "Pink is a color that was impossible to produce in the Middle Ages." (That one's simply false...)
**I can get screaming fushia with cochenile.  Not sure how red kermes would be.  Madder also gave/gives red.
 
> "Only kings and queens could wear purple." (Demonstrably not true, but because it's a convention at many Renaissance Faires, a lot of people believe it.)
> 
**I did for a while.  That one ticks me off.  Purple is my favorite color so I use it a lot.  Have to be careful when I'm doing a faire.

> "There were no buttons or buttonholes in the Middle Ages." (Demonstrably not true.)

**Hadn't heard that one - so easily disproved.

> "Peasants not only sewed, but spun and wove all their own clothing." (Demonstrably not true for most times and places; cloth and second-hand clothing seem to have been available and more or less affordable over much of Europe.)

**Interesting.  Are we thinking colonial and frontier U.S. instead of Europe?  I'm hearing this one regularly, and sometimes from arts judges.  I'd love to hear more about inexpensive cloth in period where the ladies of the house would buy their fabric to make their clothes.
 
> "Blackwork embroidery was always reversible."
**Not from anyone who's tried to do it ;-)
 
> "Built-in pockets in clothing are a modern invention."
**Oops - ignorance alert here.  I've been going along with that one.  Colonial U.S. had separate "pockets" like a belt pouch.  Please, pretty please show me documentation of pockets in period.  I'd love to show to our judges when I make something with pockets.  I've would have claimed it as a creative touch or modern substitution.
 
>or that folk clothing is exactly like medieval clothing....
**no, but I've been amazed looking at modern church vestments how much they look like the ancient ones.  The new pope brought that one to mind.
 
> And that's not even getting INTO the debateable ones! <g>

**Please do.  This has been fun and informative.

> BTW, my favorite costume myth is one I can no longer locate the original of, which means it must be at least fifteen years since I saw it: that for warmth, medieval women frequently carried small furry animals around with them in the pockets and sleeves of their clothing.... for me at least, the mental images this produces are hilarious!

**Hey, this one at least makes sense.  A small warm body in a pocket would be warmer than just a pocket.  Course, the warm poo in the pocket would be a down side ;-)  (Don't ask about my pet rats...) 
Any truth to small dogs traveling with their mistresses under their hoops?
> ____________________________________________________________
> 0  Chris Laning
** Julie Tamura

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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Satin question
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Galadriel of Lothlorien wrote:

>Somebody mentioned satin at Ren Faires, something that
>has always really bugged me for the supposed era
>people are trying to dress in.  My question is this:
>when exactly was the earliest known appearance of
>satin, and when did it become more common?  Clearly
>the 1700s is riddled with good examples but what about
>before that?
>
>This occurred to me the other day and I really haven't
>delved too deeply into this yet.  I thought somebody
>here might be an expert!  I'll be taking a textiles
>class in the fall but I'm too impatient to wait that
>long.  ;)
>
>  
>
Definitely in use in the 16th century.  I think there are some examples 
in Janet Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion_.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Date: Thu, 02 Jun 2005 09:46:53 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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Chris Laning wrote:

>BTW, my favorite costume myth is one I can no longer locate the original of, which means it must be at least fifteen years since I saw it: that for warmth, medieval women frequently carried small furry animals around with them in the pockets and sleeves of their clothing.... for me at least, the mental images this produces are hilarious!
>  
>

I haven't heard that one before, but the mental images it produces are 
_hilarious_.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Satin question
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There are examples of satin weaves used in 16th century clothing....I've 
even seen an extant bit of cut-and-voided velvet (16th c.) that had a 
background of satin weave, which really made the velvet pile stand out 
in contrast.
--sue

Galadriel of Lothlorien wrote:

> Somebody mentioned satin at Ren Faires, something that
> has always really bugged me for the supposed era
> people are trying to dress in.  My question is this:
> when exactly was the earliest known appearance of
> satin, and when did it become more common?  Clearly
> the 1700s is riddled with good examples but what about
> before that?
> 
> This occurred to me the other day and I really haven't
> delved too deeply into this yet.  I thought somebody
> here might be an expert!  I'll be taking a textiles
> class in the fall but I'm too impatient to wait that
> long.  ;)


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1662 costume notes from Pepys
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In a message dated 6/1/2005 9:52:01 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
cvirtue+dated+1133185394.46599e@thibault.org writes:

NB  "Beard" in this context probably means "moustache", as full beards were 
not  normally worn at this time.



No, I think "beard" means all facial hair.  Pepys was a proponent of  
self-shaving.  After trying the stone, he later switched to a razor.   A later entry, 
"without being shaved I am not fully awake nor ready to settle to  business."
 
While full face beards as we know them were not in fashion, yet it does not  
appear that every man shaved every single day.  I can't find the exact  
reference right now, but when researching shaving a couple of years ago, I came  
across a quote that Oxford students were expected to be clean-shaven, but would  
only be fined if they didn't shave at least every 2 weeks!  Pepys himself  
evidently waited a week once, writing, "Lord! How ugly I was yesterday and how  
fine today."
 
Ann Wass
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Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2005 10:17:20 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] traveling to Austin TX
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
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Ya know, when I went to Paris France I expected it to be full of
museums of art and such. NOT. They are all private and closed to the
public. Austin out numbers Paris 5 fold when it comes of museums of
art. I would do a search for them on google for the exact addresses.
The one I love most is off MOPAC and 32nd street (I think that is
the right street, it is the one that runs by the military base).
They have white peacocks that stroll the yard....

The Harry Ransom Center at UT is incredible. The UGL on the same
campus holds the costumes from Gone With the Wind and if you can ...
get into the basement of the Textiles building. That is the mecca of
costumes from all eras that get donated to the University for one
reason or another. Many are not in great condition so they get used
by the grad students for study on pattern and technique.

That is all I can think of off the top of my head and that info is
about 13 years old. I no longer live there but in Dallas.

Chiara

On Wed, June 1, 2005 6:08 am, Susan B. Farmer said:
> Is there anything costume=y there (or needlework or .....)
>
> I'll be in town in August (big Botany meeting)
>
> Susan
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> University of Tennessee
> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
>
> _______________________________________________
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Franchesca Havas
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ooooooooo .... that almost looks like pink ... hmmmmmm mine? ;)


On Tue, May 31, 2005 11:49 pm, otsisto said:
> http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code
> =15692&Category_Code=T-d&Product_Count=6
>
> http://www.denverfabrics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code
> =16901&Category_Code=UPCHES&Product_Count=7
>
> De
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Franchesca Havas
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In a message dated 6/1/2005 8:01:56 AM Mountain Daylight Time, 
penhalion@juno.com writes:
satin at RenFaires is that they generally choose the super-shiney acetate
version that is very light and insubstantial (cheap prom dress type
stuff). To get the Elizabethan effect with satin you need to choose
something quite heavy, like the stuff they sell for lining coats, and
with a somewhat matte appearance
Plus, the less shine, the better quality the satin because the float is 
shorter.  Ever notice how fast the shiny stuff unravels?  Less threads 
intersecting.  Peau de soie would be an example of the good stuff.  Luster rather than 
shine, or what is called "bridal satin", though it tends to be synthetic.  For 
the cheap stuff, think Halloween.  Cheryl
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It's mostly diet. I don't have the stats at hand, but diet plays a huge
role in how tall a person will get. Genes dictate the range of height
that a person might grow to. Diet dictates where on that range you will
end up. Even a person with very tall parents, if he suffers persistent
malnutrition in childhood, will be noticeably stunted. 

I have a book on the early days of New Orleans where, in 1735 a
commander of the French fort complains about the troops that have been
sent to him are practically dwarves: "There are but one or two men among
them whose size is above five feet, and as to the rest, they are under
four feet ten inches." 

He goes on to complain at length about the larcenous nature of the new
troops. These guys were probably born in poverty and went hungry a lot
as kids. 

As for Abe Lincoln, he grew up in the new world, where food was much
more plentiful, and his family was reasonably well-off. 

That said, I wonder why I can't ever find Victorian-era gloves that
aren't ridiculously tiny. Was diet so bad even among the kid-glove
wearing crowd?


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Julie
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 2:38 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)

This reminds me...
What are some of the myths/stereotypes of costuming you've had to deal
with?

The only costumes which survive are those that are from small people.
They couldn't be handed down because they were already too small. (what
about children?)

People were smaller then.  Just look at all the small uniforms that have
been recovered, small armor, etc.  (what about some of the 6 foot plus
skeletons, etc...Abe Lincoln)  So were they mostly smaller?  Sure seems
to be so in current times.  Children are often taller than their parents
and grandparents.  Is it diet?  Is it genes?

Julie

----  <h-costume@indra.com> wrote:

> There also are some curators at museums who claimes that those
costumes wich 
> has survived never has ben used for some reason.
> I dont agree on this, but the only proof we have to rely on are the 
> paintings. 

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> It is a statistical fact that the first US-born generation of children of
> Oriental immigrants to this country are larger than their parents. It's
> probably diet, like from all that meat Americans typically eat.
>
> Increased fat and protein, same thing happened when McDonalds hit 
> Japan....

I also heard (about 5 years ago) of a study that showed that there was a 
higher percentage of weddings in taller males than in shorter ones. From 
what I recall, they didn't push the study far enough to state that this had 
an influence on gene transmittal.

I don't know if the study was any good or if the results were verified. But 
it's enough to say that it *might* also have something to do with genetics. 
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Penny Roberts wrote:

> It is a statistical fact that the first US-born generation of children of 
> Oriental immigrants to this country are larger than their parents. It's 
> probably diet, like from all that meat Americans typically eat.

No argument to this data point, it's just that it can't be extrapolated 
backwards more than a few decades.

Measurements of bones or other records don't show much difference 
between a medieval European and a modern one.

I know there's a bunch of data in the archives about this.  If anyone 
has trouble finding it, pipe up and we can all go archive-mining together.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"Before I die with a hammer in my hand,
I'm gonna get me a steam drill, too, Lord, Lord,
Get me a steam drill too!"
    -- The Smothers Brothers version of The Ballad of John Henry
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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Satin question
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Joan commented:

>So silk satins 
>are perfectly appropriate for Renaissance Faires, which are generally set 
>in 16th century England.  And we have inventories and other records, 
>especially wills, listing satin.

True: but _silk_ satin is expensive and hard to find, and modern synthetic satins tend to be too lightweight, too slithery, and far too shiny to look like their period equivalents. Not to mention the fact that they generally don't "breathe" and so are rather uncomfortable to wear to summer events (like renfaires).

I've seen the wrong side of a heavier than usual synthetic satin used in small amounts with some success, though. And apparently if you can find somethng called "peau de soie", which isn't nearly as brilliantly shiny as ordinary satin, that's a better match for the look of period satin. Although as Joan will tell you, it snags very easily, right Joan? If I remember correctly, you had a panel of it on one of your gowns that barely lasted the season...

____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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<<<<"Only kings and queens could wear purple." (Demonstrably not true, but
because it's a convention at many Renaissance Faires, a lot of people
believe it.)>>>>>>

Hmmmm. I've got this lovely simple patterned purple material...hmmmm. I be
going in Sept to a RenFest....hmmmm. Do I want to disturb the bovine fecal
matter? :)

De



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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Satin Question
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Yes, I know Satin is a weave!  :)  And yes, the Orient
had satins wayyy back when... I should have been more
specific in my question.  I was thinking
narrow-mindedly of western culture.  Teehee.  Thanks
for the responses, though.  It looks like it will
definitely require some more research.  That's
interesting about it being in wills!  I never would
have thought to look there.  I'll bet there's all
sorts of interesting things to learn from wills!


> There are examples of satin weaves used in 16th
> century clothing....I've 
> even seen an extant bit of cut-and-voided velvet
> (16th c.) that had a 
> background of satin weave, which really made the
> velvet pile stand out 
> in contrast.
> --sue


That sounds absolutely breathtaking!  Hm, I may want
to "steal" that idea (or "re-create"... right?  wink
wink).



"Is there any hope, Gandalf? . . . For Frodo and Sam?"
"There never was much hope.  Just a fool's hope."

--Pippin and Gandalf, RETURN OF THE KING


		
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Date: Thu, 02 Jun 2005 10:01:34 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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Julie wrote:

>>Increased fat and protein, same thing happened when McDonalds hit Japan....
>>    
>>
>
>**Wow.  I hadn't heard that.  So the Japanese, still in Japan are taller?
>  
>

Young Japanese people are often _much_ taller than their parent-- but I 
think directly attributing that to McDonalds is rubbish.


> <>
>
>>As for Abe Lincoln, he grew up in the new world, where food was much
>>more plentiful, and his family was reasonably well-off. 
>>    
>>
>
>**I thought he "wasn't" reasonably well-off...the log cabin thing and all that?  Is that another myth?
>  
>

For one thing, the diet of the lower classes in America was probably 
better than that of the lower classes in Europe. 
For another, one datum does not a statistic make.


>>That said, I wonder why I can't ever find Victorian-era gloves that
>>aren't ridiculously tiny. Was diet so bad even among the kid-glove
>>wearing crowd?
>>    
>>

I don't know-- I do notice that about gloves, but then, my perusal of 
old catalogues from Canada indicates that the shoe size range available 
is generally similar to what you'd get in modern shops. (UK 3-8 = 
roughly US 5-10/11) and that the most common size range for corsets was 
18-30 inch waist (ie fitting up to about a 34-35" waist when you take 
into account the fact that many women's corsets had a 2-3" gap when 
worn)  Maybe it's just that kid leather is prone to shrinkage?


>>Costuming myths? Let's see....
>>
>>"Women's shirts button the opposite way from men's because women were being dressed by maids." (In previous discussions on this list, we've established that the correlation between buttoning direction and maid service appears nonexistent; instead, it seems to have been a decision, and not always a consistent one, by early ready-to-wear garment manufacturers IIRC.)
>>    
>>
>
>**Ulp - I thought it was something about keeping the sword arm free.  Another myth?
>  
>
I think nearly anything that posits a relationship between weapons use 
and ordinary clothes can be dismissed.



>>"Peasants not only sewed, but spun and wove all their own clothing." (Demonstrably not true for most times and places; cloth and second-hand clothing seem to have been available and more or less affordable over much of Europe.)
>>    
>>
>
>**Interesting.  Are we thinking colonial and frontier U.S. instead of Europe?  I'm hearing this one regularly, and sometimes from arts judges.  I'd love to hear more about inexpensive cloth in period where the ladies of the house would buy their fabric to make their clothes.
>  
>

A loom would actually have been a _huge_ investment-- and as such, cloth 
was woven by professionals.


>>"Built-in pockets in clothing are a modern invention."
>>    
>>
>**Oops - ignorance alert here.  I've been going along with that one.  Colonial U.S. had separate "pockets" like a belt pouch.  Please, pretty please show me documentation of pockets in period.  I'd love to show to our judges when I make something with pockets.  I've would have claimed it as a creative touch or modern substitution.
>  
>

I think Janet Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion_ has a picture of a pair of 
Venetians with a pocket set into the side seam. This is _not_ to say 
that pockets on seperate bands didn't stay popular for at least another 
300 years.



-- 
Adele de Maisieres

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>BTW, my favorite costume myth is one I can no longer locate the original 
>of, which means it must be at least fifteen years since I saw it: that for 
>warmth, medieval women frequently carried small furry animals around with 
>them in the pockets and sleeves of their clothing.... for me at least, the 
>mental images this produces are hilarious!

The closest I have heard to that is that small dogs, besides being amusing, 
were warmer than people-body-temperature.  And Eskimos do sleep next to 
dogs on cold nights (or is it the dogs choosing to sleep next to the people?).


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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>This reminds me...
>What are some of the myths/stereotypes of costuming you've had to deal with?

"18-inch waists were common."  Someone pointed out to me that the average 
head is something like 22 inches around.  So if the photograph shows the 
head larger than the waist, we're not looking at a photo of any 18-inch 
waist.  And pre-PhotoShop photo re-touching is pretty obvious in most cases.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: "Althea Turner" <althea@alfalfapress.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2005 16:01:38 -0500
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On Wed, 1 Jun 2005 12:23:49 -0700 (GMT-07:00), Chris Laning wrote
>> BTW, my favorite costume myth is one I can no longer locate the 
> original of, which means it must be at least fifteen years since I 
> saw it: that for warmth, medieval women frequently carried small 
> furry animals around with them in the pockets and sleeves of their 
> clothing.... for me at least, the mental images this produces are hilarious!
> 

Why am I hearing in my head strains of the song, "When the squirrel went 
berzerk in the First Selfrighteous church in the sleepy little town of 
Tuskagoula"

:D

Obligatory costume content - I have a chunk 2' x 2' of soft white leather and 
am not sure what to use it for.  I've thought gloves, but am not sure of my 
ability after one class.  Any suggestions for something 16th C Venice or 6th 
C Francia?

Althea

***
Directory of Diverse Knowledge
http://www.alfalfapress.com/sca

Althea Turner
althea@alfalfapress.com

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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On Wed, 1 Jun 2005, Dawn wrote:

> "The little bow on your bra is a holdover from corset lacing. "
> ...
> Anyway. If your bra has a bow on it, it's because the Edwardians put 
> bows on everything, and the lingerie industry has continued the 
> tradition of frilly female underthings.

But in a nice example of like-things-recurring over time: The busk on an
Elizabethan corset can be secured at the top by a small lace or point or
ribbon put through the corset, which (when tied) produces a little bow at
the same point we're accustomed to seeing bra bows.

And if that's not enough: I don't have a source for this, but I've heard
others comment on Elizabethan-era references to the giving of one's
busk-lace as an intimate gift from a woman to a man (perhaps suggesting
that once the lace is undone, the busk can be removed...). And it seems
that within the last few decades, there has been a custom among teenage
girls to clip off their bra bows to give to their boyfriends.

I'd love to have a source on the giving of busk-strings, just because the
parallel is so cute.

--Robin


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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Satin question
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Karen R Bergquist wrote:

>To get the Elizabethan effect with satin you need to choose
>something quite heavy, like the stuff they sell for lining coats, and
>with a somewhat matte appearance. I know that sounds odd- matte satin,
>but there is a spectrum of shininess and to look right in period you
>should avoid the super shiny stuff and go for stuff with more of a
>'glow'. and of course you need to get the skirt looking full enough so
>you have nice luxurious folds of softly shining satin....mmmmmmm.......I
>think I feel a satin Elizabethan coming on.......
>

I think the "good stuff" is sold as Duchesse or delustred satin.  It's 
fairly heavyweight, and popular for wedding gowns and the like. 

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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Julie wrote:

>People were smaller then.  Just look at all the small uniforms that have been recovered, small armor, etc.  (what about some of the 6 foot plus skeletons, etc...Abe Lincoln)  So were they mostly smaller?  Sure seems to be so in current times.  Children are often taller than their parents and grandparents.  Is it diet?  Is it genes?
>  
>

It depends what you mean.  It's probably safest to say that the heights 
of _lower_class people have increased a good deal, but those of upper 
class people by much less.  A friend of mine is interested in 19th 
century militaria and says that many of the jackets he's found have been 
too small for him-- and he's only 5'7" and slim. Heights are determined 
by a combination of genetics and diet.  And a single example doesn't 
prove anything about averages-- Lincoln was considered a tall man while 
he was alive.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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> That said, I wonder why I can't ever find Victorian-era gloves that
> aren't ridiculously tiny. Was diet so bad even among the kid-glove
> wearing crowd?


I've read in several places that earlier women (Regency, I think) deliberately wore gloves too small for them in order to make their hands look daintier -- thus, the references to the women "working their hands into" their gloves.  It would make sense to me that that aesthetic would have continued into the Victorian period.  I believe I've also read that about shoes -- have mercy!  I can't even imagine the discomfort, if that's true, as the clothes themselves look hot and confining enough without extra torture!  I live in an un-air-condititioned Victorian in KS, and I've always joked that I'd have had to be a prostitute, just so I could take my clothes off during the day...

KP

 


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Kate M Bunting wrote:

> By all means, but I think it's already mentioned in the notes.

Oh! Right you are.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"Before I die with a hammer in my hand,
I'm gonna get me a steam drill, too, Lord, Lord,
Get me a steam drill too!"
    -- The Smothers Brothers version of The Ballad of John Henry
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I have heard that one a few times. Mostly associated with "Italian". So
called docs. used for it was the portraits with the little dogs in them.
I guess those little critters escaped from the pockets while the portraits
were being painted. :)

De

-----Original Message-----
Chris Laning wrote:

>BTW, my favorite costume myth is one I can no longer locate the original
of, which means it must be at least fifteen years since I saw it: that for
warmth, medieval women frequently carried small furry animals around with
them in the pockets and sleeves of their clothing.... for me at least, the
mental images this produces are hilarious!
>


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There's a corset in the Williamsburg collection measuring around 30 inches.

Laura


>This reminds me...
>What are some of the myths/stereotypes of costuming you've had to deal with?

"18-inch waists were common."  Someone pointed out to me that the average 
head is something like 22 inches around.  So if the photograph shows the 
head larger than the waist, we're not looking at a photo of any 18-inch 
waist.  And pre-PhotoShop photo re-touching is pretty obvious in most cases.


-- 
"If you can't feed a hundred people then just feed one." Mother Theresa -- 
www.thehungersite.com 





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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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Althea Turner wrote:

>Obligatory costume content - I have a chunk 2' x 2' of soft white leather and 
>am not sure what to use it for.  I've thought gloves, but am not sure of my 
>ability after one class.  Any suggestions for something 16th C Venice or 6th 
>C Francia?
>
>  
>

I _would_ go for glowes.  But if you're not sure of your ability, fold 
it up nicely and put it away until you've made a pair out of something 
less fancy.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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On 6/1/05, Sandra Olsen <sandraleigh@abraxis.com> wrote:
         <snip>
> As for Abe Lincoln, he grew up in the new world, where food was much
> more plentiful, and his family was reasonably well-off. 

Abe Lincoln is a bad example as he had a genetic condition. One year
on his birthday the local newspaper compared his height to that of
modern basketball players (this was a few years ago) and he was either
as tall as the tallest or they could have have the rare pleasure of
actually asking someone "How's the weather up there?" as he was just a
little taller.

I seem to remember a photo of him in a crowd and everyone can up to
about his waist. Or was that a first hand description?

Does this ring a bell for anyone?


> 
> That said, I wonder why I can't ever find Victorian-era gloves that
> aren't ridiculously tiny. Was diet so bad even among the kid-glove
> wearing crowd?
> 

I think that I've read (in that famous 'somewhere') that small hands
were prized so a woman would wear gloves that were as small as
possible -- even if it made her hands look like stuffed sausages
because they were so tight.

Onaree

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Date: Thu, 02 Jun 2005 10:17:44 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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Robin Netherton wrote:

>And if that's not enough: I don't have a source for this, but I've heard
>others comment on Elizabethan-era references to the giving of one's
>busk-lace as an intimate gift from a woman to a man (perhaps suggesting
>that once the lace is undone, the busk can be removed...). And it seems
>that within the last few decades, there has been a custom among teenage
>girls to clip off their bra bows to give to their boyfriends.
>  
>

Actually, the busk itself could be a gift from a sweetheart.  There's a 
surviving example with the words "Think of me when this you see" carved 
on it.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Date: Wed, 01 Jun 2005 15:28:51 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Wearing purple, was RE: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for
  fun...)
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At 02:32 PM 6/1/2005 -0500, you wrote:
><<<<"Only kings and queens could wear purple." (Demonstrably not true, but
>because it's a convention at many Renaissance Faires, a lot of people
>believe it.)>>>>>>
>
>Hmmmm. I've got this lovely simple patterned purple material...hmmmm. I be
>going in Sept to a RenFest....hmmmm. Do I want to disturb the bovine fecal
>matter? :)
>
>De

If you are a ticket-buying visitor, wear whatever you want <g>.  Only those 
who actually work the Faires are covered by such conventions (and they 
differ from fair to fair).

Joan

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jun  1 18:31:33 2005
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Date: Wed, 01 Jun 2005 15:30:49 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Satin question
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At 12:29 PM 6/1/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>Joan commented:
>
> >So silk satins
> >are perfectly appropriate for Renaissance Faires, which are generally set
> >in 16th century England.  And we have inventories and other records,
> >especially wills, listing satin.
>
>True: but _silk_ satin is expensive and hard to find, and modern synthetic 
>satins tend to be too lightweight, too slithery, and far too shiny to look 
>like their period equivalents. Not to mention the fact that they generally 
>don't "breathe" and so are rather uncomfortable to wear to summer events 
>(like renfaires).
>
>I've seen the wrong side of a heavier than usual synthetic satin used in 
>small amounts with some success, though. And apparently if you can find 
>somethng called "peau de soie", which isn't nearly as brilliantly shiny as 
>ordinary satin, that's a better match for the look of period satin. 
>Although as Joan will tell you, it snags very easily, right Joan? If I 
>remember correctly, you had a panel of it on one of your gowns that barely 
>lasted the season...
>
>____________________________________________________________
>0  Chris Laning
>|  <claning@igc.org>
>+  Davis, California
>____________________________________________________________

Yep. I did a kirtle and gown combination, with the kirtle front in the 
satin.  Snagged if you looked at it cross-wise.  But it would be fine if 
used in an indoors situation.

Joan

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From: Gytha Stonegrinder <gythaofnorthumbria@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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I just wanted to add 2 cents on these 2 topics...   About the cloth... I suspect that the time period (and probably place) would matter a lot... I've been studying Viking era Danelaw/Greenland/Iceland and medieval Greenland and it appears that many, if not all, homes had a loom, though it was a hanging, weighted loom not a floor loom.  Once the floor looms came into vogue weaving became more specialized and the looms more complex and thus more expensive.  Also, woven cloth was used as a currency for trade and payment of services, so cloth was not just made at home even then.
As to the pockets issue... I can say that in the book "Woven into the Earth" there are pictures of actual 12-13th century gowns with side pockets... some in the gore seam and some in the side seam.  The author felt that much of the style on Greenland followed the style of Europe, so I hope that helps with the documentation!   Gytha

Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz> wrote:
snippets:


>>"Peasants not only sewed, but spun and wove all their own clothing." (Demonstrably not true for most times and places; cloth and second-hand clothing seem to have been available and more or less affordable over much of Europe.)
>> 
>>
>
>**Interesting. Are we thinking colonial and frontier U.S. instead of Europe? I'm hearing this one regularly, and sometimes from arts judges. I'd love to hear more about inexpensive cloth in period where the ladies of the house would buy their fabric to make their clothes.
> 
>

A loom would actually have been a _huge_ investment-- and as such, cloth 
was woven by professionals.


>>"Built-in pockets in clothing are a modern invention."
>> 
>>
>**Oops - ignorance alert here. I've been going along with that one. Colonial U.S. had separate "pockets" like a belt pouch. Please, pretty please show me documentation of pockets in period. I'd love to show to our judges when I make something with pockets. I've would have claimed it as a creative touch or modern substitution.
> 
>

I think Janet Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion_ has a picture of a pair of 
Venetians with a pocket set into the side seam. This is _not_ to say 
that pockets on seperate bands didn't stay popular for at least another 
300 years.



-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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I just wanted to add 2 cents on these 2 topics...   About the cloth... I suspect that the time period (and probably place) would matter a lot... I've been studying Viking era Danelaw/Greenland/Iceland and medieval Greenland and it appears that many, if not all, homes had a loom, though it was a hanging, weighted loom not a floor loom.  Once the floor looms came into vogue weaving became more specialized and the looms more complex and thus more expensive.  Also, woven cloth was used as a currency for trade and payment of services, so cloth was not just made at home even then.
As to the pockets issue... I can say that in the book "Woven into the Earth" there are pictures of actual 12-13th century gowns with side pockets... some in the gore seam and some in the side seam.  The author felt that much of the style on Greenland followed the style of Europe, so I hope that helps with the documentation!   Gytha

Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz> wrote:
snippets:


>>"Peasants not only sewed, but spun and wove all their own clothing." (Demonstrably not true for most times and places; cloth and second-hand clothing seem to have been available and more or less affordable over much of Europe.)
>> 
>>
>
>**Interesting. Are we thinking colonial and frontier U.S. instead of Europe? I'm hearing this one regularly, and sometimes from arts judges. I'd love to hear more about inexpensive cloth in period where the ladies of the house would buy their fabric to make their clothes.
> 
>

A loom would actually have been a _huge_ investment-- and as such, cloth 
was woven by professionals.


>>"Built-in pockets in clothing are a modern invention."
>> 
>>
>**Oops - ignorance alert here. I've been going along with that one. Colonial U.S. had separate "pockets" like a belt pouch. Please, pretty please show me documentation of pockets in period. I'd love to show to our judges when I make something with pockets. I've would have claimed it as a creative touch or modern substitution.
> 
>

I think Janet Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion_ has a picture of a pair of 
Venetians with a pocket set into the side seam. This is _not_ to say 
that pockets on seperate bands didn't stay popular for at least another 
300 years.



-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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Gytha Stonegrinder wrote:

>I just wanted to add 2 cents on these 2 topics...   About the cloth... I suspect that the time period (and probably place) would matter a lot... I've been studying Viking era Danelaw/Greenland/Iceland and medieval Greenland and it appears that many, if not all, homes had a loom, though it was a hanging, weighted loom not a floor loom.  Once the floor looms came into vogue weaving became more specialized and the looms more complex and thus more expensive.  Also, woven cloth was used as a currency for trade and payment of services, so cloth was not just made at home even then.
>  
>

Fair cop... I admit I was thinking primarily of 14th-15th century cloth 
production-- which was mostly professional.

>As to the pockets issue... I can say that in the book "Woven into the Earth" there are pictures of actual 12-13th century gowns with side pockets... some in the gore seam and some in the side seam.  The author felt that much of the style on Greenland followed the style of Europe, so I hope that helps with the documentation!  
>  
>
Excellent-- I must have a look at that book.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
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----------------------------- 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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> "18-inch waists were common."  Someone pointed out to me that the average 
> head is something like 22 inches around.  So if the photograph shows the 
> head larger than the waist, we're not looking at a photo of any 18-inch 
> waist.  And pre-PhotoShop photo re-touching is pretty obvious in most 
> cases.

And from what I heard, a lot of photos were retouched.

Not to say that 22 inch waists didn't exist... but people tend to assume 
that EVERYONE tight-laced, which is far from the truth... 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths , esp small dogs
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Re: small dogs for warmth

Dogs have an average body heat of 101F to 102.5F- that's 3-4 degrees warmer 
than a human.  Also, with their fur coats and inability to sweat anywhere 
except their pads, they do a much better job of conserving body heat than us 
humans.
I used to love watching my mother kick the dog (a warlock Doberman) out of 
his spot by the stove.  She'd lie down on it, wrapped in a blanket, and he'd 
come and lie down along her back.  (Stretched out, he was longer than she 
was.)  They'd do tea and PF Milano's and TV together.
                 -Helen/Aidan

 

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I wrote:
>BTW, my favorite costume myth is one I can no longer locate the original of, which means it must be at least fifteen years since I saw it: that for warmth, medieval women frequently carried small furry animals around with them in the pockets and sleeves of their clothing.... for me at least, the mental images this produces are hilarious!

Adele wrote:
>I haven't heard that one before, but the mental images it produces are 
>_hilarious_.

I just keep picturing two or three little beasts the size of hamsters, playing hide and seek.... running races, in one sleeve, out the other..... playing "king of the castle" on top of the headdress..... <g>

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Chris Laning wrote:

>I wrote:
>  
>
>>BTW, my favorite costume myth is one I can no longer locate the original of, which means it must be at least fifteen years since I saw it: that for warmth, medieval women frequently carried small furry animals around with them in the pockets and sleeves of their clothing.... for me at least, the mental images this produces are hilarious!
>>    
>>
>
>Adele wrote:
>  
>
>>I haven't heard that one before, but the mental images it produces are 
>>_hilarious_.
>>    
>>
>
>I just keep picturing two or three little beasts the size of hamsters, playing hide and seek.... running races, in one sleeve, out the other..... playing "king of the castle" on top of the headdress..... <g>
>  
>

Yup... also, some sort of mustelid shooting out of a sleeve and into a 
pocket opening, across the inside of the skirt...

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
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----------------------------- 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: busk lace (was Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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>>And if that's not enough: I don't have a source for this, but I've heard
>>others comment on Elizabethan-era references to the giving of one's
>>busk-lace as an intimate gift from a woman to a man (perhaps suggesting
>>that once the lace is undone, the busk can be removed...).

I heard that about the drawstring from trousers, as an intimate gift in the 
Middle East.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
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          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: glove leather (was Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for
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>>Obligatory costume content - I have a chunk 2' x 2' of soft white leather 
>>and am not sure what to use it for.  I've thought gloves, but am not sure 
>>of my ability after one class.  Any suggestions for something 16th C 
>>Venice or 6th C Francia?

>>I _would_ go for glowes.  But if you're not sure of your ability, fold it 
>>up nicely and put it away until you've made a pair out of something less fancy.

Roll it, instead of folding it.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
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          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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>What are some of the myths/stereotypes of costuming you've had to deal with?

What about the one claiming bugs got into tall hairstyles and lived 
there?  (Not too far fetched, come to think of it, since the bugs could 
have been head lice.)  I first heard this in the beehive-period early 
1960s, along with the allegation that the bugs bored right into the owners 
head, unnoticed (which I didn't believe even then).  I later heard the same 
story about those tall hairdos in the late 1700s (weevils going after the 
powder?), proving, at least, that it's an old myth.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
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          www.FunStuft.com

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>Maybe it's just that kid leather is prone to shrinkage?

The stitching doesn't shrink, so that can't be it.  Probably it's because 
"back then" smaller people, i.e. children, commonly wore gloves.  My guess 
is that we're seeing children's gloves, or at least adult style gloves worn 
by teens and pre-teens.


>I think Janet Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion_ has a picture of a pair of 
>Venetians with a pocket set into the side seam. This is _not_ to say that 
>pockets on seperate bands didn't stay popular for at least another 300 years.

One of the doublets of the Sture family has a pocket under a waist-skirt part.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
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          www.FunStuft.com

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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: busk lace (was Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

>
>>> And if that's not enough: I don't have a source for this, but I've 
>>> heard
>>> others comment on Elizabethan-era references to the giving of one's
>>> busk-lace as an intimate gift from a woman to a man (perhaps suggesting
>>> that once the lace is undone, the busk can be removed...).
>>
>
> I heard that about the drawstring from trousers, as an intimate gift 
> in the Middle East.

I think I've heard that one too... and I think it's not so much a string 
as a small sash.  It does go throught the trouser waist casing, but it's 
about 8" wide, made of very light fabric, and has heavily embroidered ends.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Date: Thu, 02 Jun 2005 11:39:58 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: glove leather (was Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

>
>>> Obligatory costume content - I have a chunk 2' x 2' of soft white 
>>> leather and am not sure what to use it for.  I've thought gloves, 
>>> but am not sure of my ability after one class.  Any suggestions for 
>>> something 16th C Venice or 6th C Francia?
>>
>
>>> I _would_ go for glowes.  But if you're not sure of your ability, 
>>> fold it up nicely and put it away until you've made a pair out of 
>>> something less fancy.
>>
>
> Roll it, instead of folding it.


Yes, good point... in fact, roll it up with some acid free tissue paper.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Subject: [h-cost] Gloves??
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Intact gloves--weren't gloves as disposable as nylon
stockings?

They got dirty very fast, and L.M. Alcott makes it a
point to show how cleaned gloves weren't best wear any
more, if you could even get them clean-ish.

Nice thin leather that you'd already gotten wear out
of is useful for a lot of things, and 'free'.

Ann in CT

> That said, I wonder why I can't ever find
> Victorian-era gloves that aren't ridiculously tiny. 
> Was diet so bad even among the kid-glove wearing
crowd?



		
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On Wednesday 01 June 2005 5:44 pm, Adele de Maisieres wrote:
[snip]
> It depends what you mean.  It's probably safest to say that the heights
> of _lower_class people have increased a good deal, but those of upper
> class people by much less.  A friend of mine is interested in 19th
> century militaria and says that many of the jackets he's found have been
> too small for him-- and he's only 5'7" and slim. Heights are determined
> by a combination of genetics and diet.  And a single example doesn't
> prove anything about averages-- Lincoln was considered a tall man while
> he was alive.

Exactly.  As Oliver Wendell Holmes (allegedly) said, "all generalizations are 
no good, including this one."  Henry VIII of England was apparently around 6 
feet 2 inches tall (we have full suits of armor he wore to help confirm it).    
On the other hand, I've seen Horatio Nelson's uniform coat in the Greenwich 
Naval Museum, and it's tiny (i.e., I could not fit into it, and I'm only 5 
feet 1 inch tall, 130 pounds).  

What would tell us more is how far from the norm of their respective times 
Henry and Horatio were.  (There's a term in statistics for such a figure, but 
I forget what that term is.)

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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Small hands may indeed be prized, but stuffing ones hands into
child-sized gloves seems a little extreme in pursuit of fashion, rather
like tightlacing. Surely married, settled women might give in and admit
their real size instead of blowing the seams out of every pair.

I have very long thin hands and I'm used to fingers on gloves being too
short, but surely I can't be so much of an ogre that not even the tips
of my fingers will fit!

Maybe there's an expert out there who has yet to weigh in?


> 
> That said, I wonder why I can't ever find Victorian-era gloves that
> aren't ridiculously tiny. Was diet so bad even among the kid-glove
> wearing crowd?
> 

I think that I've read (in that famous 'somewhere') that small hands
were prized so a woman would wear gloves that were as small as
possible -- even if it made her hands look like stuffed sausages
because they were so tight.

Onaree

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This is one of the many reasons I like doing historical outfits.  My 
usual joke is that it's hard for me to find gloves that don't have 
snowmen knitted on the back, because my hands are so small.  I love 
finding gloves at estate sales; most people can't wear them.  Even as 
small as they are, usually the little finger is too long.

Karen

Onaree Berard wrote:

>>That said, I wonder why I can't ever find Victorian-era gloves that
>>aren't ridiculously tiny. Was diet so bad even among the kid-glove
>>wearing crowd?
>>
>
>I think that I've read (in that famous 'somewhere') that small hands
>were prized so a woman would wear gloves that were as small as
>possible -- even if it made her hands look like stuffed sausages
>because they were so tight.
>
>Onaree
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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> This is one of the many reasons I like doing historical outfits.  My usual 
> joke is that it's hard for me to find gloves that don't have snowmen 
> knitted on the back, because my hands are so small.  I love finding gloves 
> at estate sales; most people can't wear them.  Even as small as they are, 
> usually the little finger is too long.
>
> Karen

This I can relate with. I can usually manage to find small enough gloves, 
just barely small enough, that is. But for me, the fingers are usually too 
short. Children's gloves usually fit around the hand but are WAY too short 
for me. The smallest size of adult gloves will sometimes fit me. Actually... 
they fit me when there's tons of size small left on the rack because they're 
too small for everybody else :-)

What I still haven't found is a suitable archery glove. I think I'll give up 
and just buy a pair of second-hand full gloves, and shoot with that. 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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On Wednesday 01 June 2005 7:12 pm, Chris Laning wrote:
[snip]
> I just keep picturing two or three little beasts the size of hamsters,
> playing hide and seek.... running races, in one sleeve, out the other.....
> playing "king of the castle" on top of the headdress..... <g>

<g>

I suspect, however, that they really mean small lap dogs (such as the dogs 
depicted in the January image in the Tres Riches Heures).   I doubt women 
wore them in their clothing, deep sleeves or no.  On the other hand, I'm 
inclined to believe what I have heard about noble ladies incurring the 
displeasure of priests by taking them to church with them on cold winter 
mornings.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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On Wednesday 01 June 2005 3:45 pm, Dawn wrote:
[snip]

> A little more looking and I found that brassieres and corsets evolved
> concurrently through the end of the 19th century. The corset slid down
> and turned into more of what we now think of as a control-top garter.
> I've seen vintage ads for "bra and corset" sets. The bra was always a
> separate garment, supported by straps, where the corset, when it
> supported the bust, relied on boning that pushed up from the torso.

Really?  I don't know of any evidence for a support garment remotely like the 
brassiere before the late 19-teens--early 1920s.  What source do you have in 
mind?


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

>On Wednesday 01 June 2005 7:12 pm, Chris Laning wrote:
>[snip]
>  
>
>>I just keep picturing two or three little beasts the size of hamsters,
>>playing hide and seek.... running races, in one sleeve, out the other.....
>>playing "king of the castle" on top of the headdress..... <g>
>>    
>>
>
><g>
>
>I suspect, however, that they really mean small lap dogs (such as the dogs 
>depicted in the January image in the Tres Riches Heures).   I doubt women 
>wore them in their clothing, deep sleeves or no.  On the other hand, I'm 
>inclined to believe what I have heard about noble ladies incurring the 
>displeasure of priests by taking them to church with them on cold winter 
>mornings.
>  
>

Kind of a late-medieval Paris Hilton... ugh!

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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>**That's tiny for adult males.  Where were they born?  France?
>  
>  
>
>No. Corsica. They were all named Bonaparte, and they all wanted to conquer the world....Just kidding, I couldn't resist, Mike T.
>  
>
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2005 21:36:06 -0400
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On Wednesday 01 June 2005 9:23 pm, Adele de Maisieres wrote:
> Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
[snip]
> >I suspect, however, that they really mean small lap dogs (such as the dogs
> >depicted in the January image in the Tres Riches Heures).   I doubt women
> >wore them in their clothing, deep sleeves or no.  On the other hand, I'm
> >inclined to believe what I have heard about noble ladies incurring the
> >displeasure of priests by taking them to church with them on cold winter
> >mornings.
>
> Kind of a late-medieval Paris Hilton... ugh!

 Human nature hasn't changed--I'm sure there've been Paris H. clones in every 
generation since Adam and Eve.  :-)

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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>
> The closest I have heard to that is that small dogs, besides being
> amusing,  were warmer than people-body-temperature.  And Eskimos do
> sleep next to  dogs on cold nights (or is it the dogs choosing to sleep
> next to the people?).
>
>

Only if they are out away from home at night. If they are home the eskimo
sleeps in his home and the dogs outside in the snow or possibly dog
houses.   Unless they have taken to keeping pet dogs now.

Now in our house the dog chooses to sleep with one of the humans if she is
cold, or on our bedroom floor if she is not.   LOL  Kitty


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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

>On Wednesday 01 June 2005 3:45 pm, Dawn wrote:
>[snip]
>
>  
>
>>A little more looking and I found that brassieres and corsets evolved
>>concurrently through the end of the 19th century. The corset slid down
>>and turned into more of what we now think of as a control-top garter.
>>I've seen vintage ads for "bra and corset" sets. The bra was always a
>>separate garment, supported by straps, where the corset, when it
>>supported the bust, relied on boning that pushed up from the torso.
>>    
>>
>
>Really?  I don't know of any evidence for a support garment remotely like the 
>brassiere before the late 19-teens--early 1920s.  What source do you have in 
>mind?
>
>
>  
>

In 1889 Herminie Cadolle of France invented a two-peice undergarment set 
called /le bien-ętre/ (the wellbeing) consisting of a corset for the 
waist and hips and an upper half supporting the breasts by means of 
shoulder straps. By 1905 the upper half was being sold separately as a 
*soutien-gorge* (breast support), which is still the term used fro bras 
in France.

In 1893, Marie Tucek patented the Breast Supporter  similar to a 
modern bra that in that it supported the breasts in pockets of fabric.

In America, Mary Phelps Jacob was granted the first U.S. patent for the 
brassiere, in 1913. Her invention is most widely recognized as the 
predecessor to the modern bra. She sold the patent to the Warner 
Brothers Corset Company.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Hmmm, I've got to share this:  Back in my younger days...say around 1978, I was sitting in church and the lady in the seat in front of me had an elaborately teased and hairsprayed like a rock up do.  Lo and behond I saw a spider, leisurely wandering through the stiffened mass of hair.  I gingerly took my crochet hook, enticed it out of the little nest and promptly stomped on it.

She gave me the dirtiest look and didn't believe me when I explained what had happened.  But I promise you it was true!  I do not like spiders anywhere in my immediate vicinty, and thus the intruder had to go, even though it was on someone else's head!

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> 
> >What are some of the myths/stereotypes of costuming you've had to deal with? 
> 
> What about the one claiming bugs got into tall hairstyles and lived 
> there? (Not too far fetched, come to think of it, since the bugs could 
> have been head lice.) I first heard this in the beehive-period early 
> 1960s, along with the allegation that the bugs bored right into the owners 
> head, unnoticed (which I didn't believe even then). I later heard the same 
> story about those tall hairdos in the late 1700s (weevils going after the 
> powder?), proving, at least, that it's an old myth. 
> 
> CarolynKayta Barrows 
> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian 
> www.FunStuft.com 
> 
> //// \\\ 
> ////-@@\\\ 
> (((( 7 ))) 
> ((( <> )))) 
> ) (((((( 
> /----\ /---\)) 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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On Wednesday 01 June 2005 9:44 pm, Adele de Maisieres wrote:
> Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
[snip ]
> >Really?  I don't know of any evidence for a support garment remotely like
> > the brassiere before the late 19-teens--early 1920s.  What source do you
> > have in mind?
>
> In 1889 Herminie Cadolle of France invented a two-peice undergarment set
> called /le bien-ętre/ (the wellbeing) consisting of a corset for the
> waist and hips and an upper half supporting the breasts by means of
> shoulder straps. By 1905 the upper half was being sold separately as a
> *soutien-gorge* (breast support), which is still the term used fro bras
> in France.

Yes, "soutien-gorge" is still the term used. 

I was aware of Ms. Jacob's invention but not Mlle. (Mme.?) Cadolle's. Do you 
know of anywhere I could find an image of it on line?

>
> In 1893, Marie Tucek patented the Breast Supporter  similar to a
> modern bra that in that it supported the breasts in pockets of fabric.

Another image I should track down.  I suppose I shouldn't be surprised, 
though, considering how many designs were patented for crinolines and 
bustles.

 Thank you so much for the information!

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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On Wednesday 01 June 2005 9:47 pm, elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net wrote:
> Hmmm, I've got to share this:  Back in my younger days...say around 1978, I
> was sitting in church and the lady in the seat in front of me had an
> elaborately teased and hairsprayed like a rock up do.  Lo and behond I saw
> a spider, leisurely wandering through the stiffened mass of hair.  I
> gingerly took my crochet hook, enticed it out of the little nest and
> promptly stomped on it.
>
> She gave me the dirtiest look and didn't believe me when I explained what
> had happened.  But I promise you it was true!  I do not like spiders
> anywhere in my immediate vicinty, and thus the intruder had to go, even
> though it was on someone else's head!

Some of the reports of the wildlife harbored by the high hairstyles of the 
1780s are similar.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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>What are some of the myths/stereotypes of costuming you've had to deal with?

What about the one claiming bugs got into tall hairstyles and lived 
there?  (Not too far fetched, come to think of it, since the bugs could 
have been head lice.)  I first heard this in the beehive-period early 
1960s, along with the allegation that the bugs bored right into the owners 
head, unnoticed (which I didn't believe even then).  I later heard the same 
story about those tall hairdos in the late 1700s (weevils going after the 
powder?), proving, at least, that it's an old myth.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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On Wednesday 01 June 2005 6:46 pm, Gytha Stonegrinder wrote:

[snip]

> I can say that in the book "Woven into the Earth" 
> there are pictures of actual 12-13th century gowns with side pockets...
> some in the gore seam and some in the side seam.  
 [rest snipped]

Where?  I have "Woven Into the Earth" and I don't see anything that 
demonstrates the existence of modern, integral-to-the-garment pockets.  The 
discussion on p. 94 does refer to "pocket slits", but that could refer to 
slits made so that pouches or pockets on a string (such as the 18th c ones) 
worn underneath could be easily reached.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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> I suspect, however, that they really mean small lap dogs (such as 
> the dogs depicted in the January image in the Tres Riches Heures).   I
doubt 
> women wore them in their clothing, deep sleeves or no.  On the other
hand, 
> I'm inclined to believe what I have heard about noble ladies incurring 
> the displeasure of priests by taking them to church with them on cold 
> winter mornings.

Why wouldn't you? Nuns did. More than one papal bull was directed at the
good sisters for having pets and then bringing them to church.

Arlys
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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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 Ah ....but there so began the myth of "Is that a
weasal in your pocket,or are you just happy to see
me?" ;~>

--- Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> wrote:
 <snip>
> Costuming myths? Let's see....
> >> 
> BTW, my favorite costume myth is one I can no longer
> locate the original of, which means it must be at
> least fifteen years since I saw it: that for warmth,
> medieval women frequently carried small furry
> animals around with them in the pockets and sleeves
> of their clothing.... for me at least, the mental
> images this produces are hilarious!
> 
>
____________________________________________________________
> 0  Chris Laning
> |  <claning@igc.org>
> +  Davis, California
> _


		
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Date: Thu, 02 Jun 2005 15:28:06 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

>>In 1889 Herminie Cadolle of France invented a two-peice undergarment set
>>called /le bien-ętre/ (the wellbeing) consisting of a corset for the
>>waist and hips and an upper half supporting the breasts by means of
>>shoulder straps. By 1905 the upper half was being sold separately as a
>>*soutien-gorge* (breast support), which is still the term used fro bras
>>in France.
>>    
>>
>
>Yes, "soutien-gorge" is still the term used. 
>
>I was aware of Ms. Jacob's invention but not Mlle. (Mme.?) Cadolle's. Do you 
>know of anywhere I could find an image of it on line?
>  
>

Sadly, no... I did have a quick hunt around, but no luck.



-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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On Wednesday 01 June 2005 11:28 pm, Adele de Maisieres wrote:
> Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
> >>In 1889 Herminie Cadolle of France invented a two-peice undergarment set
> >>called /le bien-ętre/ (the wellbeing) consisting of a corset for the
> >>waist and hips and an upper half supporting the breasts by means of
> >>shoulder straps. By 1905 the upper half was being sold separately as a
> >>*soutien-gorge* (breast support), which is still the term used fro bras
> >>in France.
> >
> >Yes, "soutien-gorge" is still the term used.
> >
> >I was aware of Ms. Jacob's invention but not Mlle. (Mme.?) Cadolle's. Do
> > you know of anywhere I could find an image of it on line?
>
> Sadly, no... I did have a quick hunt around, but no luck.

Thanks.  I'll troll a bit for it myself and if I get lucky, I'll post the 
result.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 

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>
>>What are some of the myths/stereotypes of costuming you've had to deal
>> with?
>
> What about the one claiming bugs got into tall hairstyles and lived
> there?  (Not too far fetched, come to think of it, since the bugs could
> have been head lice.)  I first heard this in the beehive-period early
> 1960s, along with the allegation that the bugs bored right into the
> owners  head, unnoticed (which I didn't believe even then).  I later
> heard the same  story about those tall hairdos in the late 1700s
> (weevils going after the  powder?), proving, at least, that it's an old
> myth.
>

In the midwest the rumor went around that women had died from black widow
spiders taking up residence in the beehive hairdo and being provoked
perhaps by scratching or other irritation, stung the wearer to death.  
don't know if it was true, but I found a black widow spider on my pillow
one morning the first year I lived in Colorado.   scared of spiders ever
since.  Kitty


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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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--- Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:

> 
> On Wed, 1 Jun 2005, Dawn wrote:
> 
> > "The little bow on your bra is a holdover from
> corset lacing. "
> > ...Snip....
> >
> But in a nice example of like-things-recurring over
> time: The busk on an Elizabethan corset can be
secured at the top by a small lace or point or
> ribbon put through the corset, which (when tied)
> produces a little bow at the same point we're
accustomed to seeing bra bows.
> 
> And if that's not enough: I don't have a source for
> this, but I've heard others comment on
Elizabethan-era references to the giving of one's
> busk-lace as an intimate gift from a woman to a man
> (perhaps suggesting
> that once the lace is undone, the busk can be
> removed...). 
        Comment:
I seem to remember seeing in the BBC production of
Elizabeth R an episode when she is holding the Spanish
Prince at bay,  by sending him a present of a ribbon
from her corset or busk...quite a darling & intimate
gift for a suitor....after recieving  quite a few of
these ribbons, he gets miffed and tossese them to the
floor. Where they got this "factoid" for the
production I don't know.....

> I'd love to have a source on the giving of
> busk-strings, just because the
> parallel is so cute.
> 
> --Robin
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 


		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Men's Flemish peasant garb 
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Status: RO

 
 
That hay-in-art site is interesting, but the painting I was talking  about 
isn't on it. I will try to get my book back from the person who borrowed  it so 
I can scan the image for you. It didn't occur to me that it would be so  hard 
to find online.
 
Tara


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Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2005 21:50:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Costuming myths (just for fun...)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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My personal experience,: I still have a pair of kid
gloves I first acquired at about age of 6 or 8. These
were my "church" gloves. I took those poor crumpled
gloves out the other day, worked them in my hands,
softening the skin,warming them, and "worked" my now
adult hands into them. only a slight "strain' showed
at the thumb seam line.
 So ,when they say the ladies "worked" their hands
into the gloves for some times before going out,it is
true.
The reason why the gloves are cut so small,_I_ think
is the fact that they do indeed stretch out quite a
bit after warming and wearing them...if they were cut
large to begin with you'd have probably lost them off
your hands. We don't have the patience to smooth,
stretch,smooth ,stretch our selves into those gloves.
They do look lovely when finally on, and fit like
surgical gloves(commercial mode: "so flexible you can
pick up a dime")
 I have a modern pair I bought from a lady "4 in hand"
coach driver, kid skin,bitty, and smeling wonderful.
Her instructions were the same, "warm ,stretch, ,put
on, warm,stretch,warm, tug a bit, repeat"
 And a note: my adult hands resemble "donald Duck's
feet,palm is almost perfectly square-about 3"x3" with
longish fingers, ...not dainty by far...the gloves are
about 2" across.

--- Sandra Olsen <sandraleigh@abraxis.com> wrote:

> Small hands may indeed be prized, but stuffing ones
> hands into
> child-sized gloves seems a little extreme in pursuit
> of fashion, rather
> like tightlacing. Surely married, settled women
> might give in and admit
> their real size instead of blowing the seams out of
> every pair.
> 
> I have very long thin hands and I'm used to fingers
> on gloves being too
> short, but surely I can't be so much of an ogre that
> not even the tips
> of my fingers will fit!
> 
> Maybe there's an expert out there who has yet to
> weigh in?
> 
> 
> > 
> > That said, I wonder why I can't ever find
> Victorian-era gloves that
> > aren't ridiculously tiny. Was diet so bad even
> among the kid-glove
> > wearing crowd?
> > 
> 
> I think that I've read (in that famous 'somewhere')
> that small hands
> were prized so a woman would wear gloves that were
> as small as
> possible -- even if it made her hands look like
> stuffed sausages
> because they were so tight.
> 
> Onaree
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jun  2 01:11:38 2005
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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Satin question
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2005 17:10:33 +1200
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> Somebody mentioned satin at Ren Faires, something that
> has always really bugged me for the supposed era
> people are trying to dress in.  My question is this:
> when exactly was the earliest known appearance of
> satin, and when did it become more common?  Clearly
> the 1700s is riddled with good examples but what about
> before that?

I can't believe no one has mentioned the glorious red satin doublet of
Charles the bold! It is a stunningly lustrous garment even now!

I think I have some images of it in my photobucket account..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/sca/DSCN2084.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/sca/DSCN2080.jpg

The doublet is from the 1570s, and I'm pretty sure I've seen satin mentioned
in the Privy Purse Accounts from the Richard III society, probably around
1500.
http://caterinaetcetera.tripod.com/reference-elysabeth.htm

http://www.people.cornell.edu/pages/ms154/ArmingCoat/assembly.htm
"Extant examples sported satin linings, and that made good sense for my
effort. "
Not sure which ones, but on the page on the history of arming doublets there
are a few extant doublets.
http://www.people.cornell.edu/pages/ms154/ArmingCoat/history.htm

Of course Eleanora di Toledo was buried in a satin gown, and when you look
at the photos in Patterns of Fashion it still has a fair bit of lustre.
Especially seen in the close up of the side back lacing.

http://images.vam.ac.uk/images/photo/sch/20011109/high/0332-013.jpg
http://images.vam.ac.uk/images/photo/sch/20011109/high/0332-014.jpg
1580-1600, cloak
Red satin, couched and embroidered with silver, silver-gilt and coloured
silk threads, trimmed with silver-gilt and silk thread fringe and tassel,
and lined with pink linen
museum number 793-1901
I understand it looks more lustrous in real life, brighter red as well.

There is much more research out ther that has been done (possibly books
about silk would be a good place to start as well as wills and the like)
just perhpas not in a readily accessable site;)

michaela
http://glittersweet.com



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Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2005 01:25:41 -0400
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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>And pre-PhotoShop photo re-touching is pretty obvious in most cases.

      The ones I've seen have the lady against a dark background - 
sitting on a dark chair, for example.  So the retouching is not 
obvious, because they pick a plain background in order for it to work.

>Maybe it's just that kid leather is prone to shrinkage?

      When is the last time kid gloves were made?  So there they are 
at various antique stores, a shrinking cache, the larger ones being 
sold before the smaller ones.  Not to mention the doll makers who buy 
them to cut off the tips for doll shoes!  Although the stretching 
makes sense, I think it's becoming more and more a lucky find for 
gloves that fit an average or large size hand.

      -Carol
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On Wed, 1 Jun 2005 16:01:38 -0500 "Althea Turner"
<althea@alfalfapress.com> writes:

> Why am I hearing in my head strains of the song, "When the squirrel 
> went berzerk in the First Selfrighteous church in the sleepy little
town 
> of Tuskagoula"
> 
> :D

You WOULD bring that up!!! ;D

Regarding busk points--there's an English madrigal that mentions them.
Apparently for a man to gain a lady's favor to the end that she gave him
one was quite the prize. The song mentions a fellow recieving a busk
points with the tags (ties) off. I can't remember what it's called at the
moment, although I swear I hear the King's Singers performing the
relevent bits in my head. ;)

Arlys
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Laning" <claning@igc.org>
<snip> BTW, my favorite costume myth is one I can no longer locate the
original of, which means it must be at least fifteen years since I saw it:
that for warmth, medieval women frequently carried small furry animals
around with them in the pockets and sleeves of their clothing.... for me at
least, the mental images this produces are hilarious!

Actually I believe this may have been imported, I believe the Chinese
Emperors actually did have dogs in their sleeves (but then again I may be
perpetuating a costume myth here) so I'd expect somebody made a joke about
Houpellande sleeves being the right shape for something similar, and
somebody took it as fact.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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Date: Thu, 02 Jun 2005 01:18:38 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Satin Question
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Yup, wills are a font of information.  <G>  While I mainly work with 16th 
century wills, I have seen it in 15th century English wills as well as, 
"silk of Saracen work" - it was bedding in a priest's will... <G>

Cheers,
Danielle

At 12:35 PM 6/1/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>Yes, I know Satin is a weave!  :)  And yes, the Orient
>had satins wayyy back when... I should have been more
>specific in my question.  I was thinking
>narrow-mindedly of western culture.  Teehee.  Thanks
>for the responses, though.  It looks like it will
>definitely require some more research.  That's
>interesting about it being in wills!  I never would
>have thought to look there.  I'll bet there's all
>sorts of interesting things to learn from wills!
>
> > There are examples of satin weaves used in 16th
> > century clothing....I've
> > even seen an extant bit of cut-and-voided velvet
> > (16th c.) that had a
> > background of satin weave, which really made the
> > velvet pile stand out
> > in contrast.
> > --sue
>
>
>That sounds absolutely breathtaking!  Hm, I may want
>to "steal" that idea (or "re-create"... right?  wink
>wink).
>
>
>
>"Is there any hope, Gandalf? . . . For Frodo and Sam?"
>"There never was much hope.  Just a fool's hope."
>
>--Pippin and Gandalf, RETURN OF THE KING
>
>
>
>__________________________________
>Do you Yahoo!?
>Read only the mail you want - Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard.
>http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
>_______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] on the influence of weapons use and pockets
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Julie wrote:
>**Ulp - I thought it was something about keeping the
sword arm free.  Another myth?

Adele replied:
I think nearly anything that posits a relationship
between weapons use and ordinary clothes can be
dismissed.

I comment:
Why do you think this? Certainly there have been
points in history in which military "style" has
influenced civilian style (eg: late 1990's, when camos
were cool, Regency/Napoleonic times, when ladies wore
Scarlet outfits with gold frogging-- or is that
another urban legend I believe in? *g*)... why would
influence due to function be so very different?

Adele wrote:
I think Janet Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion_ has a
picture of a pair of Venetians with a pocket set into
the side seam. This is _not_ to say that pockets on
separate bands didn't stay popular for at least
another 300 years.

I reply:
Awesome! I have Renaissance-minded, pocket-loving
(addicted?) friends who will be thrilled when they
learn about this! (I, too, believed in the "fichets,
not pockets for pre-modern days" myth.) Out of
curiosity, why did the "old" method stick around for
so long?

Cheers,
Stephanie


		
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>BTW, my favorite costume myth is one I can no longer locate the original
of, which means it must be at least fifteen years since I saw it: that for
warmth, medieval women frequently carried small furry >animals around with
them in the pockets and sleeves of their clothing.... for me at least, the
mental images this produces are hilarious!

You are kidding, right? That is not even close to being logical!

Mine is the old "women removed their ribs for tinier waists". Hmm, in the
days of antique medicine, you would have to be rather vain for that one.
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>BTW, my favorite costume myth is one I can no longer locate the original
of, which means it must be at least fifteen years since I saw it: that for
warmth, medieval women frequently carried small furry >animals around with
them in the pockets and sleeves of their clothing.... for me at least, the
mental images this produces are hilarious!

You are kidding, right? That is not even close to being logical!

Mine is the old "women removed their ribs for tinier waists". Hmm, in the
days of antique medicine, you would have to be rather vain for that one.
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"Cavaliers and Roundheads could be instantly told apart by their style of dress."
(Clothing differences had much more to do with social class; officers on both sides dressed similarly, although a few wealthy Parliamentarians affected plain "Puritan" styles on principle.)

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> jtknits@jtknits.cts.com 01/06/2005 19:38 >>>
This reminds me...
What are some of the myths/stereotypes of costuming you've had to deal with?

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Kate Bunting
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>>> AnnBWass@aol.com 01/06/2005 15:35 >>>
 
>In a message dated 6/1/2005 9:52:01 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
>cvirtue+dated+1133185394.46599e@thibault.org writes:

>NB  "Beard" in this context probably means "moustache", as full >beards were 
>not  normally worn at this time.

>No, I think "beard" means all facial hair.  Pepys was a proponent of  
>self-shaving.  After trying the stone, he later switched to a razor.   A >later entry, "without being shaved I am not fully awake nor ready to >settle to  business."
 
But he says he suddenly decided to remove his beard "which I had been a great while bringing up". This suggests a deliberately cultivated area of facial hair, not just a few days' stubble.


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Kate Bunting
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>>> cathy@thyrsus.com 02/06/2005 01:42 >>>
>Exactly.  As Oliver Wendell Holmes (allegedly) said, "all >generalizations are no good, including this one."  Henry VIII of England >was apparently around 6 feet 2 inches tall (we have full suits of >armor he wore to help confirm it).    
>On the other hand, I've seen Horatio Nelson's uniform coat in the >Greenwich Naval Museum, and it's tiny (i.e., I could not fit into it, and >I'm only 5 feet 1 inch tall, 130 pounds).  

Yes, and King Charles I was around 5 feet tall, but his son Charles II (who allegedly took after his French grandfather) was "above two yards high".


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"If you wish to live and thrive,
Let the spider run alive."

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net 02/06/2005 02:47 >>>
Hmmm, I've got to share this:  Back in my younger days...say around 1978, I was sitting in church and the lady in the seat in front of me had an elaborately teased and hairsprayed like a rock up do.  Lo and behond I saw a spider, leisurely wandering through the stiffened mass of hair.  I gingerly took my crochet hook, enticed it out of the little nest and promptly stomped on it.

She gave me the dirtiest look and didn't believe me when I explained what had happened.  But I promise you it was true!  I do not like spiders anywhere in my immediate vicinty, and thus the intruder had to go, even though it was on someone else's head!

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> 
> >What are some of the myths/stereotypes of costuming you've had to deal with? 
> 
> What about the one claiming bugs got into tall hairstyles and lived 
> there? (Not too far fetched, come to think of it, since the bugs could 
> have been head lice.) I first heard this in the beehive-period early 
> 1960s, along with the allegation that the bugs bored right into the owners 
> head, unnoticed (which I didn't believe even then). I later heard the same 
> story about those tall hairdos in the late 1700s (weevils going after the 
> powder?), proving, at least, that it's an old myth. 
> 
> CarolynKayta Barrows 
> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian 
> www.FunStuft.com 
> 
> //// \\\ 
> ////-@@\\\ 
> (((( 7 ))) 
> ((( <> )))) 
> ) (((((( 
> /----\ /---\)) 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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When male and female button direction was discussed on this list several years ago, I quoted the assertion from a boys' book of my father's, circa 1917, that men's coats buttoned left over right so the sword would not catch in the opening. It was agreed that this doesn't make sense - when you draw a sword, you don't pull it across your front.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> sismith42@yahoo.com 02/06/2005 07:54 >>>
Julie wrote:
>**Ulp - I thought it was something about keeping the
sword arm free.  Another myth?

Adele replied:
I think nearly anything that posits a relationship
between weapons use and ordinary clothes can be
dismissed.

I comment:
Why do you think this? Certainly there have been
points in history in which military "style" has
influenced civilian style (eg: late 1990's, when camos
were cool, Regency/Napoleonic times, when ladies wore
Scarlet outfits with gold frogging-- or is that
another urban legend I believe in? *g*)... why would
influence due to function be so very different?

Adele wrote:
I think Janet Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion_ has a
picture of a pair of Venetians with a pocket set into
the side seam. This is _not_ to say that pockets on
separate bands didn't stay popular for at least
another 300 years.

I reply:
Awesome! I have Renaissance-minded, pocket-loving
(addicted?) friends who will be thrilled when they
learn about this! (I, too, believed in the "fichets,
not pockets for pre-modern days" myth.) Out of
curiosity, why did the "old" method stick around for
so long?

Cheers,
Stephanie


		
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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<snip>
>
> That said, I wonder why I can't ever find Victorian-era gloves that
> aren't ridiculously tiny. Was diet so bad even among the kid-glove
> wearing crowd?

well, statistically, there was quite a drop in height (and therefore overall
size) at the beginning of the 19th century, plus tight gloves were another
one of those immobilising signs of status. and (as others have mentioned)
they may not actually be adult gloves.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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From: J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Men's Flemish peasant garb
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Hey, don't worry.  I have had no time (10 is earliest i've got home 
lately, and i leave at 6am sharp) to do anything about it.  when i get a 
breather, i will stop at the library.  I should today or they will send 
back my books on tape, but they are not open by the time i get near home 
(complain, complain, complain!)

TeaRoseS@aol.com wrote:

> 
> 
>That hay-in-art site is interesting, but the painting I was talking  about 
>isn't on it. I will try to get my book back from the person who borrowed  it so 
>I can scan the image for you. It didn't occur to me that it would be so  hard 
>to find online.
> 
>Tara
>
>
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>
>
>  
>


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Drop in hight?

Elizabeth Walpole wrote:

>well, statistically, there was quite a drop in height (and therefore overall
>size) at the beginning of the 19th century, 
>


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On Thursday 02 June 2005 2:54 am, Stephanie Smith wrote:
[snip]
> Adele wrote:
> I think Janet Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion_ has a
> picture of a pair of Venetians with a pocket set into
> the side seam. This is _not_ to say that pockets on
> separate bands didn't stay popular for at least
> another 300 years.

I grabbed for my copy when I read that.  Actually, Arnold describes two pair 
of  upper hose with pockets, both dated to the late 1610s.  

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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Subject: [h-cost] Copper lace. 
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Copper lace ca. 1560.  from Theater Inventory listings



>Hi all you Lacers out there.  What is the earliest evidence you have seen 
>of any kind of lace made from metallic threads?
>
>Thanks, Sg
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So what do y'all figure the powder in the hair was for?  To keep it from 
looking oily?

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"Before I die with a hammer in my hand,
I'm gonna get me a steam drill, too, Lord, Lord,
Get me a steam drill too!"
    -- The Smothers Brothers version of The Ballad of John Henry
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1662 costume notes from Pepys
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At 08:16 02/06/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>So what do y'all figure the powder in the hair was for?  To keep it from 
>looking oily?
>
>--
>Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
>
>"Before I die with a hammer in my hand,
>I'm gonna get me a steam drill, too, Lord, Lord,
>Get me a steam drill too!"
>    -- The Smothers Brothers version of The Ballad of John Henry


Powder was used in hair to make it the colour required, mostly white or 
grey but coloured powders were used too. (Later, 18th century wigs were 
stiffened, shaped and coloured with pipeclay.) It is perfectly probable 
that "creatures" would like it, as it was food based, I believe, like 
powdered orris root, which also smells wonderful (when fresh!) or other 
substances. There is a good book on Hair and hairdressing, probably out of 
print, by Richard Corson. It has detailed information on 5000 years of 
hairdressing, quotes on the subject and many line drawings of hair and wig 
styles through the centuries.

Suzi


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jun  2 08:43:33 2005
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From: Mara Riley <corbiegirl@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] handspun/handwoven, was costume myths
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Actually, we've had several discussions on the 18cWoman list about
handspun.  Yes, people in the colonies / on the frontier did weave
some of their own clothing, but a LOT of fabric was being imported as
well.  The perception that "everyone in the colonies wore handspun,
all the time" is another costuming myth that I've been trying to
combat.  (All-or-nothing statements, you know...)  And in the
mid-Atlantic PA German areas, particularly, the pattern seems to have
been that (some) women spun flax and wool at home (a fair percentage
of houses didn't have spinning wheels at all), then sent the yarn off
to a local (professional) weaver and/or dyer to be woven and/or dyed.


A few books that deal with the subject are "Good Wives" and "The Age
of Homespun" by Laurel Thatcher Ulrich and "Cloth and Costume" by
Tandy and Charles Hersh.

Cheers,
Mara


http://knittingobsession.blogspot.com/ - knitting blog
http://www.knittingobsession.com/patterns.htm - Modern knitting patterns
http://www.marariley.net/ - 18th century costume notes and patterns
---------------------
Doubt is not a pleasant condition, but certainty is absurd. - Voltaire
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From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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I wouldn't want to carry a critter around with me, but a half dozen cats beats an electric blanket any cold night!!

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:

From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Date: Wed, 01 Jun 2005 12:38:08 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)

The closest I have heard to that is that small dogs, besides being amusing, 
were warmer than people-body-temperature.  And Eskimos do sleep next to 
dogs on cold nights (or is it the dogs choosing to sleep next to the people?).


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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On the whole, nutrition has a lot to do with how tall people grow (after their genes are considered).  QE 1 was very proud of her height and Mary Queen of Scots was almost six feet tall.  Of course, they ate better than than the average too.  However, they did not have nutritionists telling them what to eat and changing their minds every year either.  They ate what was available and for the rich, their diet was pretty high in meat and bread and root crops that could be stored.  Fresh vegies and fruit were pretty seasonal.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz> wrote:

From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Date: Thu, 02 Jun 2005 09:44:37 +1200
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)

Julie wrote:

>People were smaller then.  Just look at all the small uniforms that have been recovered, small armor, etc.  (what about some of the 6 foot plus skeletons, etc...Abe Lincoln)  So were they mostly smaller?  Sure seems to be so in current times.  Children are often taller than their parents and grandparents.  Is it diet?  Is it genes?
>  
>

It depends what you mean.  It's probably safest to say that the heights 
of _lower_class people have increased a good deal, but those of upper 
class people by much less.  A friend of mine is interested in 19th 
century militaria and says that many of the jackets he's found have been 
too small for him-- and he's only 5'7" and slim. Heights are determined 
by a combination of genetics and diet.  And a single example doesn't 
prove anything about averages-- Lincoln was considered a tall man while 
he was alive.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jun  2 09:33:28 2005
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References: <5.2.1.1.2.20050602080125.01961be0@postoffice8.mail.cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  metallic lace
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2005 08:33:58 -0500
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There's a portrait by Corneille de Lyon from 1530-40 of a woman with what I 
can only assume is some sort of metallic lace at the neckline:
http://www.wga.hu/html/c/corneill/p_woman.html
(If anyone can think of something _other_ than metallic lace that this could 
be, I'd like very much to know!)

-E House 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jun  2 09:35:19 2005
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	<200506012120.12320.cathy@thyrsus.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2005 08:35:57 -0500
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I'm not Dawn, but if you'll give me an hour or two I can post several 
pictures of advertisements of bras & extant garments from the 1890s-1910s.

-E House

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
> Really?  I don't know of any evidence for a support garment remotely like 
> the
> brassiere before the late 19-teens--early 1920s.  What source do you have 
> in
> mind?

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jun  2 09:50:18 2005
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] shot silk (was: Satin question)
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This discussion reminds me of something I've been trying to track down the 
last few days.  Exactly when did shot silk (or shot wool, for that matter) 
fall out of fashion between the 15th & 16th centuries?  Fabric shot with 
both gold and other colors shows up in manuscripts well into the 16thC, but 
not in any portraits I can call to mind.  It seems reasonable to assume that 
the shot effect seen in the manuscripts is intended for artistic purposes 
only (in other words, as an opportunity to lay on the gilt and make it look 
richer).

-E House (has her eye on a lovely shot silk taffeta she'd like to buy for a 
c1515 gown, but would settle for 1490s...)

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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: spiders..Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
Date: Thu, 02 Jun 2005 14:07:04 +0000
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Oh, I agree!  But as a girl, I ended up getting bitten by a spider 5 summers in a row, so they are not allowed in close proximity.  If they stay where they belong, they can merrily spin whatever webs they like...

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> "If you wish to live and thrive, 
> Let the spider run alive." 
> 
> Kate Bunting 
> Librarian and 17th century reenactor 
> 
> >>> elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net 02/06/2005 02:47 >>> 
> Hmmm, I've got to share this: Back in my younger days...say around 1978, I was 
> sitting in church and the lady in the seat in front of me had an elaborately 
> teased and hairsprayed like a rock up do. Lo and behond I saw a spider, 
> leisurely wandering through the stiffened mass of hair. I gingerly took my 
> crochet hook, enticed it out of the little nest and promptly stomped on it. 
> 
> She gave me the dirtiest look and didn't believe me when I explained what had 
> happened. But I promise you it was true! I do not like spiders anywhere in my 
> immediate vicinty, and thus the intruder had to go, even though it was on 
> someone else's head! 
> 
> -- 
> Slan go foill 
> Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 
> 
> Emer's Needle Wares 
> 
> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> 
> > 
> > >What are some of the myths/stereotypes of costuming you've had to deal with? 
> > 
> > What about the one claiming bugs got into tall hairstyles and lived 
> > there? (Not too far fetched, come to think of it, since the bugs could 
> > have been head lice.) I first heard this in the beehive-period early 
> > 1960s, along with the allegation that the bugs bored right into the owners 
> > head, unnoticed (which I didn't believe even then). I later heard the same 
> > story about those tall hairdos in the late 1700s (weevils going after the 
> > powder?), proving, at least, that it's an old myth. 
> > 
> > CarolynKayta Barrows 
> > dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian 
> > www.FunStuft.com 
> > 
> > //// \\\ 
> > ////-@@\\\ 
> > (((( 7 ))) 
> > ((( <> )))) 
> > ) (((((( 
> > /----\ /---\)) 
> > 
> > _______________________________________________ 
> > h-costume mailing list 
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> _______________________________________________ 
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Oh, I agree!  But as a girl, I ended up getting bitten by a spider 5 summers in a row, so they are not allowed in close proximity.  If they stay where they belong, they can merrily spin whatever webs they like...

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> "If you wish to live and thrive, 
> Let the spider run alive." 
> 
> Kate Bunting 
> Librarian and 17th century reenactor 
> 
> >>> elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net 02/06/2005 02:47 >>> 
> Hmmm, I've got to share this: Back in my younger days...say around 1978, I was 
> sitting in church and the lady in the seat in front of me had an elaborately 
> teased and hairsprayed like a rock up do. Lo and behond I saw a spider, 
> leisurely wandering through the stiffened mass of hair. I gingerly took my 
> crochet hook, enticed it out of the little nest and promptly stomped on it. 
> 
> She gave me the dirtiest look and didn't believe me when I explained what had 
> happened. But I promise you it was true! I do not like spiders anywhere in my 
> immediate vicinty, and thus the intruder had to go, even though it was on 
> someone else's head! 
> 
> -- 
> Slan go foill 
> Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 
> 
> Emer's Needle Wares 
> 
> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> 
> > 
> > >What are some of the myths/stereotypes of costuming you've had to deal with? 
> > 
> > What about the one claiming bugs got into tall hairstyles and lived 
> > there? (Not too far fetched, come to think of it, since the bugs could 
> > have been head lice.) I first heard this in the beehive-period early 
> > 1960s, along with the allegation that the bugs bored right into the owners 
> > head, unnoticed (which I didn't believe even then). I later heard the same 
> > story about those tall hairdos in the late 1700s (weevils going after the 
> > powder?), proving, at least, that it's an old myth. 
> > 
> > CarolynKayta Barrows 
> > dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian 
> > www.FunStuft.com 
> > 
> > //// \\\ 
> > ////-@@\\\ 
> > (((( 7 ))) 
> > ((( <> )))) 
> > ) (((((( 
> > /----\ /---\)) 
> > 
> > _______________________________________________ 
> > h-costume mailing list 
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> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] shot silk (was: Satin question)
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I'm not sure if this qualifies as 'shot' but there are numerous references in Queen E's Unl of various colors of cloth of gold and silver. I can think of 'Tawney cloth of gold'and 'purple cloth of gold' as two specifically, but there are pages of references to what I have always thought of as cloth with a metallic thread on one direction (weft?) and colored silk in the other direction (warp?) giving a changeable look depending on how you saw the fabric. I'm away from my books right now, but anyone with a Queen E's handy can look up the various descriptions of the fabrics.


Karen
Seamstrix
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Subject: [h-cost] busk points
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Here's that lyric I was trying to remember, thanks to a madrigalist pal
o' mine.

Arlys


> Thomas Weelkes' "Lord, When I Think". The lyrics are below, and it's 
> in the first verse:
> 
> Lord, when I think what a paltery thing
> is a glove or a ring or a top of a fan to brag of,
> and how much a Noddy will triumph in a busk point,
> snatch with the tag off, then I say
> Well fare him that hath ever used close play.
> 
> And when I see what a pitiful grace
> hath a frown in the face
> or a no in the lips of a Lady,
> and when I had wist she would be kiss'd
> when she away did go with hey ho
> I end so, Never trust any woman more than you know.

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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] shot silk (was: Satin question)
Date: Thu, 02 Jun 2005 14:28:02 +0000
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I know that there are sources for similar fabrics in Italian city states as well...I'll have to find my books...they are still in boxes..

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> 
> I'm not sure if this qualifies as 'shot' but there are numerous references in 
> Queen E's Unl of various colors of cloth of gold and silver. I can think of 
> 'Tawney cloth of gold'and 'purple cloth of gold' as two specifically, but there 
> are pages of references to what I have always thought of as cloth with a 
> metallic thread on one direction (weft?) and colored silk in the other direction 
> (warp?) giving a changeable look depending on how you saw the fabric. I'm away 
> from my books right now, but anyone with a Queen E's handy can look up the 
> various descriptions of the fabrics. 
> 
> 
> Karen 
> Seamstrix 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] shot silk (was: Satin question)
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At 14:19 02/06/2005 +0000, you wrote:

>I'm not sure if this qualifies as 'shot' but there are numerous references 
>in Queen E's Unl of various colors of cloth of gold and silver. I can 
>think of 'Tawney cloth of gold'and 'purple cloth of gold' as two 
>specifically, but there are pages of references to what I have always 
>thought of as cloth with a metallic thread on one direction (weft?) and 
>colored silk in the other direction (warp?) giving a changeable look 
>depending on how you saw the fabric. I'm away from my books right now, but 
>anyone with a Queen E's handy can look up the various descriptions of the 
>fabrics.


Shot silk is also called "changeable" - as in Shakespeare. Can't remember 
the full quote but he talks of making a doublet of changeable taffeta 
(which would have been silk.)

Suzi


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Subject: [h-cost] RE:on the influence of weapons use and pockets
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>From: Stephanie Smith <sismith42@yahoo.com>
>Why do you think this? Certainly there have been
>points in history in which military "style" has
>influenced civilian style (eg: late 1990's, when camos
>were cool, Regency/Napoleonic times, when ladies wore
>Scarlet outfits with gold frogging-- or is that
>another urban legend I believe in? *g*)... why would
>influence due to function be so very different?
>...

Simply as an example of military wear influencing style (there are many 
others):  The introduction of the raised stacked heel in Europe for men's 
shoes around 1600 seems to have been brought in with the fashion of 
emulating the Turkish riding boot.  Women's shoes traditionally have a 
carved solid core heel with a heel cover, probably ultimately derived from 
the patten.

Then of course, there are modern cargo pants -- those pockets were 
originally put there so soldiers could store more "stuff", like grenades and 
amunition, in easy to reach places...  At least that's what *I* used them 
for :)

Marc


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths, dogs and petticoats (just for fun...)
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In a message dated 6/2/2005 7:22:31 AM Mountain Daylight Time, 
lalahcatlady@netscape.com writes:
I wouldn't want to carry a critter around with me, but a half dozen cats 
beats an electric blanket any cold night!!
Apparently, Mary Queen of Scots brought her little dog along with her to her 
execution hidden under her petticoat.  No one knew it was there until her head 
was removed, upon which the dog became extremely distressed and began 
wailing.  This is not an urban legend, I believe, as I came across it in a history of 
the Tudor family by a reputable historian.  But who knows?  Cheryl Odom
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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
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>From: Stephanie Smith <sismith42@yahoo.com>
>Why do you think this? Certainly there have been
>points in history in which military "style" has
>influenced civilian style (eg: late 1990's, when camos
>were cool, Regency/Napoleonic times, when ladies wore
>Scarlet outfits with gold frogging-- or is that
>another urban legend I believe in? *g*)... why would
>influence due to function be so very different?
>...

Certainly military style has influenced civilian styles in many times and places. But a good many costume practices are demonstrably awkward, inconvenient and impractical, and people still do them because they're "fashionable." So explanations of clothing bits that claim a specific practical reason (such as interfering with drawing a sword) are always worth looking at twice before assuming they're true (starting with asking whether the clothing innovation and the supposed practical reason are from the same time period...). 

And of course, some _are_ true. :)

As for the continued popularity of hanging pockets even after built-in pockets were invented -- if I had to speculate, I'd say one major advantage for the fashion-conscious is that they don't affect the "hang" of the garment as much. Putting something heavy or large in a built-in pocket can create a visible bulge, if one cares about such things. With a hanging pocket, if the garments aren't closely fitted you can practically carry a partridge in a pear tree without it showing nearly as much :) My Elizabethan farthingale has pockets built into it that hang *inside* the hoops, for that reason, and they hold my checkbook and wallet, handkerchiefs, spectacles, pens, etc. etc. (not that I can document farthingale pockets, but they're certainly practical).



____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
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From: Gytha Stonegrinder <gythaofnorthumbria@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costuming myths (just for fun...)
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I am traveling right now without that book... I will check it when I return in mid-June... I read the entire book and my impression was that there are actually pockets and not just slits, but I could be wrong.  Gytha

Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com> wrote:On Wednesday 01 June 2005 6:46 pm, Gytha Stonegrinder wrote:

[snip]

> I can say that in the book "Woven into the Earth" 
> there are pictures of actual 12-13th century gowns with side pockets...
> some in the gore seam and some in the side seam. 
[rest snipped]

Where? I have "Woven Into the Earth" and I don't see anything that 
demonstrates the existence of modern, integral-to-the-garment pockets. The 
discussion on p. 94 does refer to "pocket slits", but that could refer to 
slits made so that pouches or pockets on a string (such as the 18th c ones) 
worn underneath could be easily reached.

-- 
Cathy Raymond 

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy. I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth. So there."-- Rob Landley 
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:on the influence of weapons use and pockets
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Quoting Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>:


> As for the continued popularity of hanging pockets even after 
> built-in pockets were invented -- if I had to speculate, I'd say one 
> major advantage for the fashion-conscious is that they don't affect 
> the "hang" of the garment as much. Putting something heavy or large 
> in a built-in pocket can create a visible bulge, if one cares about 
> such things. With a hanging pocket, if the garments aren't closely 
> fitted you can practically carry a partridge in a pear tree without 
> it showing nearly as much :) My Elizabethan farthingale has pockets 
> built into it that hang *inside* the hoops, for that reason, and they 
> hold my checkbook and wallet, handkerchiefs, spectacles, pens, etc. 
> etc. (not that I can document farthingale pockets, but they're 
> certainly practical).

OOh, tell me more!  This sounds like a much better solution in
some ways than a belt pouch!

Jerusha
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Date: Thu, 02 Jun 2005 10:16:07 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] on the influence of weapons use and pockets
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>When male and female button direction was discussed on this list several 
>years ago, I quoted the assertion from a boys' book of my father's, circa 
>1917, that men's coats buttoned left over right so the sword would not 
>catch in the opening. It was agreed that this doesn't make sense - when 
>you draw a sword, you don't pull it across your front.

I thought a "cross-draw" did exactly that.  This is also why, I heard, the 
woman walks on the man's right, so he can draw his sword and not clip her 
with the point.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2005 13:43:08 -0400
From: Christine Robb <cedar@interlog.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:on the influence of weapons use and pockets
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On Thu, Jun 02, 2005 at 09:13:53AM -0700, Chris Laning wrote:
> As for the continued popularity of hanging pockets even after
> built-in pockets were invented -- if I had to speculate, I'd say one
> major advantage for the fashion-conscious is that they don't affect
> the "hang" of the garment as much.

Would a hanging pocket be harder to pick, and/or more noticeable to
the wearer?


Christine

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Date: Thu, 02 Jun 2005 12:42:32 -0500 (CDT)
From: Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] on the influence of weapons use and pockets
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hello,

   You do pull a sword across your "front" when drawing.  They are commonly worn by a right hander on the left hip.  I still doubt that this is really the reason though.  You pull it across your frontage, BUT not across your actual front.  (i.e. It is not drug across the chest itself).  It seels very unlikely that reversed buttoning would affect the draw at all.  It definetly would not affect the draw more than baldrics and other equipment often worn alongside swords.  Personally the only clothes I recall ever having a sword tangle with has been paned trunkhose!

  Where a women walks in relation to a man varies with location and time, and occasionally social status.  For instance today she should be away from the street, which may or may not be the right side.  Again, a womens presence on my right or left would not affect my sword draw with any of my different period rigs.

Cheers,

Ron Carnegie

>I thought a "cross-draw" did exactly that.  This is also why, I heard, the 
>woman walks on the man's right, so he can draw his sword and not clip her 
>with the point.
>
>
>        CarolynKayta Barrows
>dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>          www.FunStuft.com
>
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>
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>h-costume mailing list
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