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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Empire
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>When I first heard about this series and heard the title "Empire" I
>thought either the Napoleonic Enpire or the British Empire as both are
>more historic costume interesting. 

 
That's funny. When I heard the title "Empire," I thought of Star Wars. Guess I'm still just an amateur historical costumer. :)
 
Tea Rose
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Nah..you're just a closet cosplayer.

On 7/1/05, tearoses@aol.com <tearoses@aol.com> wrote:
> That's funny. When I heard the title "Empire," I thought of Star Wars. Guess I'm still just an amateur historical costumer. :)
> 
> Tea Rose

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>There are plenty of fat women (like me) who I see, who don't realize
>this; their skirts hang lower in the front!

It seems to me that some of the extant medieval garments are longer in back 
than in front, presumably for this reason.

Marc


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Marc Carlson wrote:

>> There are plenty of fat women (like me) who I see, who don't realize
>> this; their skirts hang lower in the front!
> 
> It seems to me that some of the extant medieval garments are longer in 
> back than in front, presumably for this reason.

Possibly -- although this is only a problem for me for things that end 
at the waistband.  A garment that hangs from the shoulders, even if 
belted, evens out by the time it gets to the hem, what with bust and 
butt sort of counter-balancing.

Are you thinking of everyday wear, or something more frivolous?  Because 
a slight train (a few inches) makes a graceful line without getting in 
the way very much.  But one wouldn't do that for an average garment, I 
think.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"I told Dru I'm laying down the law tonight."
"A verb very close to her heart."  -- Pibgorn
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>>I have to roll the front waistband of off-the-rack skirts so that the hem
>>hangs horizontal because of this.  If I had the time, I'd hem the skirts
>>properly.

>Several of us have the same problem.  Fortunately it is correctable if you
>make your own skirts for historicals.

Carolyn, Cynthia, others,
It's so common there's a standard set of adjustments for the "dropped
waist" that will correct your patterns nicely.   Sway backs & dancer
butt are other common causes of "dropped waist".  I usually search for
another pair of pants. If I *must* have them, pick back the WB, and
put it where I want it.  Cant stand the messy bulky rolled "solution".

How do you tell if you need to take this into acct?  Tie a piece of
elastic 'round your  mostly unclothed waist. Wiggle around ... hip
circles, shimmies whatever, just keep your hands off waist & elastic. 
Turn sideways in the mirror. If the front is lower: dropped waist.  If
not, there are other pages in the pattern fitting books to refer to.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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Date: Fri, 01 Jul 2005 17:22:15 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Waists, waists, waists
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>put it where I want it.  Cant stand the messy bulky rolled "solution".

I only do that for commercially produced skirts, like the kind with an 
elasticized waistband that would be a pain to remodel, and that I only wear 
to job interviews anyway.  My commercially produced trousers fit fine, and 
so do my self-made historical costume skirts.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Sorry it's been awhile since I commented last, but I've been a bit busy 
this week and only caught up today.

To everyone with their suggestions for little boy suspenders, I thank you 
all. I will be checking many of them out soon.

Kimiko

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Juana la Loca
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At 10:50 AM 6/28/2005, you wrote:
>Henry's complaint that "Am I not a man like
>other men?" was a veiled statement that other Popes had annuled royal
>marriages or engagements when a male heir was needed(he fathered and
>recognized his son Henry Fitzroy)by Elizabeth Blount).


It is also interesting to note that when Henry's older sister Margaret, 
Dowager Queen of Scotland, was in the process of annulling her marriage to 
her second husband Archibald Douglas, Earl of Angus, that Henry and 
Catherine both tried very hard to dissuade her from doing so. This was 
years before Anne came into the picture. But when it came to Henry's time 
to request an annulment, he was upset that Margaret had succeeded in an 
annulment, but because of politics in Europe and with the Pope, he couldn't 
get his request granted.

More info on Margaret (and Mary Tudor Brandon), read _The Rose and the 
Thorn: The lives of Mary and Margaret Tudor_ by Nancy Lenz Harvey. It is 
very informative.

fwiw,

Kimiko


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At 03:29 PM 6/28/2005, you wrote:
>Due to politics of the time and the mysterious deaths of nobility I would
>say keeping on your toes 24/7 can drive you a bit crazy. Look at James of
>Scotland.


Which James of Scotland?

Kimiko


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>From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1135788103.a6aad1@thibault.org>
>Possibly -- although this is only a problem for me for things that end
>at the waistband.  A garment that hangs from the shoulders, even if
>belted, evens out by the time it gets to the hem, what with bust and
>butt sort of counter-balancing.
>
>Are you thinking of everyday wear, or something more frivolous?  Because
>a slight train (a few inches) makes a graceful line without getting in
>the way very much.  But one wouldn't do that for an average garment, I
>think.

I'll have to take your word for it, since in the case of my skirts, my bust 
and butt don't counterbalance anything :)

At this point I'm trying to figure out where I saw the pictures I'm thinking 
of and drawing a blank.  Sorry, my bad - I withdraw the thought until I can 
find the darned things.

Marc


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Is anyone else watching the series "Young Blades" on PAX network?
http://www.paxtv.com/shows/yngblad/
It's sort of a "Three Musketeers, the next generation" sort of thing (with 
a little "Magnificent 7" thrown in), supposedly set in the 17th 
Century.  It has an odd mix of historical and modern, nothing is terribly 
accurate, but it's fun and some of the outfits are really impressive, even 
if not period-accurate.  Not to mention some pretty nifty eye-candy (of 
both genders).

Sandy

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Juana la Loca
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2005 14:46:15 -0500
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The one who took over being King of England after Elizabeth I.

-----Original Message-----
Which James of Scotland?

Kimiko



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Subject: [h-cost] AD- Patterns for sale
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Patterns from my private stash.
Simplicity
7756 Size 10.12.14.
7756 Size 4.6.8
8715 Size 10.12.14
8249 Size 18W-24W
9966 Size 14.16.18.20
7761 Size XS.S.M.L.XL
8735 Size 4.6.8
9713 Size 16.18.20
8249 Size 26W-32W
9058 Size 14.16.18.20
9255 Size 14.16.18.20
8249 Size 26W-32W
9058 Size 6.8.10.12
8881 Size 6.8.10.12

Butterick
5655 Size 14.16.18
6294 OS


16 patterns total. Really do not want to separate so please try not
to ask. $90 includes shipping. Have been stored in a pattern drawer
so they are compact but are UNCUT.
Paypal only also will take CC or debit.

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Ahh, James VI and I.
(6th of Scotland, first of England)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Saturday, July 02, 2005 2:46 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Juana la Loca

The one who took over being King of England after Elizabeth I.

-----Original Message-----
Which James of Scotland?

Kimiko



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Subject: [h-cost] Looking for 1500s European clothing merchant
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Hi Folks,

Could you email me off list about this -- I recieved an email via my 
website and I don't know who to send this fellow to; it's out of my 
range of competence.

"I have been looking for quite some time for Quality Mens Clothing for 
The Late 1500's. I would like Upper Class/Noble English Clothing.  I'm a 
Big Guy 6'2" 225 lbs., 48 yrs.  I want to Quality, No Junk, Period 
Clothing."

He's in the upper Midwest of the USA.

If others are interested, I'd be happy to compile the answers and repost 
them to the list.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
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From: purplkat@optonline.net
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for 1500s European clothing merchant
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I would suggest Sykes Sutlering - they do wonerful stuff, and since the clothes are made in the owner's house - custom sizing could be done.

sykesutler@worldnet.att.net  attn: Raffaella Marr

NAYY -- just a good observer of their stuff.

Katheryne


----- Original Message -----
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1135962731.47898e@thibault.org>
 
> "I have been looking for quite some time for Quality Mens Clothing 
> for The Late 1500's. I would like Upper Class/Noble English Clothing.  
> I'm a Big Guy 6'2" 225 lbs., 48 yrs.  I want to Quality, No Junk, Period 
> Clothing."
> 
> If others are interested, I'd be happy to compile the answers and 
> repost 
> them to the list. 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Looking for 1500s European clothing merchant
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Top of the line that I have seen would be "Desert Torch tailoring."(also
Pavilions)
Located in Arizona- website seems to be down from where I am accessing from,
you may have better luck.

www.deserttorch.com

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of purplkat@optonline.net
Sent: Sunday, July 03, 2005 3:20 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for 1500s European clothing merchant

I would suggest Sykes Sutlering - they do wonerful stuff, and since the
clothes are made in the owner's house - custom sizing could be done.

sykesutler@worldnet.att.net  attn: Raffaella Marr

NAYY -- just a good observer of their stuff.

Katheryne


----- Original Message -----
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1135962731.47898e@thibault.org>
 
> "I have been looking for quite some time for Quality Mens Clothing 
> for The Late 1500's. I would like Upper Class/Noble English Clothing.  
> I'm a Big Guy 6'2" 225 lbs., 48 yrs.  I want to Quality, No Junk, Period 
> Clothing."
> 
> If others are interested, I'd be happy to compile the answers and 
> repost 
> them to the list. 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

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From: Lady Satine <seamuslady@yahoo.com>
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I loved It its a miniseries I was told by a friend that they are trying to do the same thing with this as they did with Roar a few years ago staring Heath ledger if it goes it may be a ongoing series.. we will see... I liked the garb it looked comfy! 
 
However leads me to a question! how does one keep veils on when nothing ever stays I have tried everything this side of glue and staples to keep veils on  even the folding method. any suggestions???? 
 
thanks 
 
Satine 


		
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I never have any trouble with mine, but then I cheat.  I tack them to headbands - the kind that go around your hair Alice in Wonderland style.  I use white ones because my hair is grey so they don't show even with sheer veils.  Don't try to match the veil in color - match your hair.  There may be a little slipping, but not enough to be a problem and I haven't lost a veil yet.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Lady Satine <seamuslady@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: Lady Satine <seamuslady@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2005 07:13:56 -0700 (PDT)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 433

I loved It its a miniseries I was told by a friend that they are trying to do the same thing with this as they did with Roar a few years ago staring Heath ledger if it goes it may be a ongoing series.. we will see... I liked the garb it looked comfy! 
 
However leads me to a question! how does one keep veils on when nothing ever stays I have tried everything this side of glue and staples to keep veils on  even the folding method. any suggestions???? 
 
thanks 
 
Satine 


		
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Satine wrote:
> However leads me to a question! how does one keep veils on when nothing 
> ever stays I have tried everything this side of glue and staples to keep 
> veils on  even the folding method. any suggestions????

Pay attention to the rear views this week- last episode, when most of the 
women turned around, you could clearly see one or two fairly ornate pins 
holding the veils to the hair.
               -Helen/Aidan

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flame retardant children's sleepwear fabric
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The thing about 'snug-fitting' sleepwear for children has the rationale that the problem with traditional 'loose' nightgowns or PJs was that their excess fabric was much more likely to fall into the flame from a fire, or onto the heating element of those old bar heaters, than PJs with knit bands at the wrists and ankles, or nightgowns that were pretty much just a close fitting tube with sleeves.

Many years ago ( 1985-86-ish ) there was a poster up on the wall of the Red-Cross Tea Room under the Brisbane City Hall ( it had a cloakroom where you could leave luggage while going about whatever business you had in town, toilets, shower, and mothers' room ) which had simple but effective illustrations of the 'good' styles, the 'bad' styles, and *why* the 'bad' styles where dangerous. ( I think there was a reasonably graphic depiction of small girl with her nightgown catching on fire from the skirt falling into a heater. ) It also recommended using sleepwear made from fire-retardant fabrics.

In Australia, I think it has become less of an issue - at least, I haven't seen the topic addressed in sundry parent-child-oriented publications - as that particular style of heater was withdrawn from the market as being too dangerous, it was around that time that fan heaters and oil-filled heaters became the only types which you could buy. I also suspect that the majority of childrens sleepwear available in the shops is in the recommended styles, but I could be wrong about that, not having had to buy kiddies sleepwear. ( No kids yet! ;-) )

My 2 cents.

Joannah.   

--- AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

From: AnnBWass@aol.com
Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2005 18:17:59 EDT
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flame retardant children's sleepwear fabric

 
In a message dated 6/21/2005 4:55:42 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
kimiko@kimiko1.com writes:

I have  several ready-made cotton children's pjs, and they are not flame 
retardant  (and are so marked). 


yes, I've noticed in reading labels on ready-made sleepwear that evidently  
the legislation was changed to allow knit cotton fabrics for children's  
sleepwear, as long as they are "snug fitting."  Don't know if that was a  result of 
pressure from manufacturers, or consumers, or something else--I've  been out 
of touch with all those issues for about 10 years now.
 
Ann Wass
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Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2005 09:44:56 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] veils
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Lady Satine <seamuslady@yahoo.com> wrote:
>However leads me to a question! how does one keep veils on when 
>nothing ever stays I have tried everything this side of glue and 
>staples to keep veils on  even the folding method. any 
>suggestions????

Ah, another person with slippery hair! :)

Briefly, what you need is some sort of non-moving structure 
underneath the veil that you can pin it to. Two cloth bands will 
provide this. One goes under your chin and up to fasten on top of 
your head. The other goes around your forehead and fastens at the 
back of your head. Pin these two together where they cross. You can 
now pin your veil to these two bands and I guarantee you it will not 
go _anywhere_! The vertical band keeps the horizontal band from 
sliding backward or upward.

These bands should be snug, but they don't need to be tight. Some 
people just use the horizontal band, but that doesn't work for me -- 
I have to make it so tight that it gives me a headache. Using both 
bands is much more comfortable.

Instead of the chin band, you can also use a wimple -- a rectangle of 
cloth, with one edge under your chin and pinned at the top of your 
head, and the other edge hanging loose. Pull the loose bottom corners 
around to the back of your head and pin them together (I also usually 
pin them together about halfway down the back of my head).

The wimple is every woman's friend after she turns 40: it's 
flattering to most faces, and if you wear one, nobody can tell how 
many chins you have! :))
-- 
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>  -   Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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On Mon, 4 Jul 2005, Chris Laning wrote:

> Instead of the chin band, you can also use a wimple -- a rectangle of
> cloth, with one edge under your chin and pinned at the top of your
> head, and the other edge hanging loose. Pull the loose bottom corners
> around to the back of your head and pin them together (I also usually
> pin them together about halfway down the back of my head).

Another useful trick is to take a square or circle, and fold it on the
diagonal. Put the center of the folded edge under your chin, and wrap the
sides up to the top of your head and pin the folded corners together
there, so that the folded edge frames your face. Pull the loose sides to
the back and pin once or twice along the back of the head, as you describe
above The folded edge will be elastic and very comfortable, staying snug
while allowing you to move your jaw. Drop a veil over the top and pin here
and there as needed. Do all this in linen, which is a little "sticky"
anyway, and it will never slip.

> The wimple is every woman's friend after she turns 40: it's flattering
> to most faces, and if you wear one, nobody can tell how many chins you
> have! :))

I love wimples for exactly this reason, but I generally do not wear one
for my lectures, because people have to clearly see my bust and cleavage
in the fitted dress for demonstration purposes. I should try to find some
examples of chin-bands consistent with late 14th c. high fashion, which
would serve the same purpose without concealing the cleavage. I do have
images of clearly older women in fitted dresses, but they mostly are
bare-necked, alas -- I even point out the sagging chins in one of my
slides to show that older women wore the fitted fashion!

--Robin

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From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier
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I have someone that has requested me to interpret this
painting into real costume:

http://www.wga.hu/art/m/moroni/port_sol.jpg

Portrait of a Soldier
1555-59
Oil on canvas, 119 x 91 cm
Museo del Prado, Madrid

I lack practical experience with men's wear in
general, let alone this period. This is a skin-out
project, so I need to know just what I am committing
to here. I see the following layers:
*underwear
*shirt
*netherstocks
*jerkin
*possibly waistcoat, but could be attached sleeves
*Venetians/Breeches

Sound about right? Anyone have any clues where to
start finding reference materials for construction?

Thanks so much, this will be a major project once I
get underway - just trying to design the embossing on
that velvet will be a serious challenge.

Kathy

It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
An inordinate passion for pleasure is the secret of remaining young.
-Oscar Wilde

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier
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At 08:29 PM 7/4/2005, you wrote:
>I have someone that has requested me to interpret this
>painting into real costume:
>
>http://www.wga.hu/art/m/moroni/port_sol.jpg
>
>Portrait of a Soldier
>1555-59
>Oil on canvas, 119 x 91 cm
>Museo del Prado, Madrid
>
>I lack practical experience with men's wear in
>general, let alone this period. This is a skin-out
>project, so I need to know just what I am committing
>to here. I see the following layers:
>*underwear
>*shirt
>*netherstocks
>*jerkin
>*possibly waistcoat, but could be attached sleeves
>*Venetians/Breeches
>
>Sound about right? Anyone have any clues where to
>start finding reference materials for construction?
>
>Thanks so much, this will be a major project once I
>get underway - just trying to design the embossing on
>that velvet will be a serious challenge.
>
>Kathy
>
>It's never too late to be who you might have been.
>-George Eliot
>An inordinate passion for pleasure is the secret of remaining young.
>-Oscar Wilde

I'm not certain what you mean by "embossing".  All the fabric looks 
plain-surfaced on my monitor.

The sleeves (and in this case the Venetians, too) look to my eyes 
like alternating strips of plain and box-pleated fabric. I once made 
a pair of sleeves that were described in the written material as 
"paned", but when I studied the portrait in great detail, I concluded 
that the "paned" strips were actually box-pleated.  When I tried 
box-pleating alternate strips instead of making panes, the sleeves 
were easy to wear and looked very much like the portrait, right down 
to the way the artist showed the fabric at the elbows.  It is a lot 
less work than finishing off innumerable small panes (plus, you don't 
need to have any fancy lining to show between the panes).

You might want to look into the Gentleman's Wardrobe pattern set from 
Margo's Historic Patterns (www.margospatterns.com).

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier
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Quoting Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>:

> At 08:29 PM 7/4/2005, you wrote:
>> I have someone that has requested me to interpret this
>> painting into real costume:
>>
>> http://www.wga.hu/art/m/moroni/port_sol.jpg
>>
>
> I'm not certain what you mean by "embossing".  All the fabric looks
> plain-surfaced on my monitor.
>
> The sleeves (and in this case the Venetians, too) look to my eyes
> like alternating strips of plain and box-pleated fabric.

*snippage*

I suspect that what they're talking about is the horizontal strips separating
the "box-pleated" panes.  If you look at those, you may be able to see that
there appears to be some sort of tracery pattern on them -- perhaps 
embroidery.
This image is too small to really tell -- and I"m not finding a better one
on the web.  :-(

Jerusha
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Thanks to everyone for the great Ideas for Veils. I am new to the is type of costume and Have recently discovered a sligtly damp veil in this heat (yes I am a heat wimp!)  is so much cooler! I will play with both ideas and give an update after a few events!!!!

I will need to tape it tonight. Husband has bosses coming over for a BBQ.. I will look! thanks 

S.

 


		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier
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To me, the sleeves look like they are a velvet or fine wool that has been
slashed, then trim applied as horizontal bands separating the slashed
sections. To get them to stand out, you cut the 'fashion fabric' slightly
longer than the lining and then tack the horizontal bands to the lining
and let the extra fabric naturally created the fullness. 

Unless you are planning to make linen under drawers (which were worn but
not universally) then the long tails of the shirt function as underwear.
The bottom of the shirt should fall well below the hips and could fall as
low as just above the knee. 

There's a doublet under the jerkin made of the red fabric, so that's two
'outer' layers for the torso. The jerkin has the long, vertical slashes
that were frequently found in Italian fashions. Hope you get really good
at the slashes with horizontal bands because from what I can see, the
doublet is made in the same way as the sleeves and trunkhose so you will
be doing alot of it!

Oh, and don't forget the stuffed codpiece.......



Karen
Seamstrix

On Mon, 4 Jul 2005 23:29:31 -0400 (EDT) Kathy Page
<caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca> writes:
> I have someone that has requested me to interpret this
> painting into real costume:
> 
> http://www.wga.hu/art/m/moroni/port_sol.jpg
> 
> Portrait of a Soldier
> 1555-59
> Oil on canvas, 119 x 91 cm
> Museo del Prado, Madrid
> 
> I lack practical experience with men's wear in
> general, let alone this period. This is a skin-out
> project, so I need to know just what I am committing
> to here. I see the following layers:
> *underwear
> *shirt
> *netherstocks
> *jerkin
> *possibly waistcoat, but could be attached sleeves
> *Venetians/Breeches
> 
> Sound about right? Anyone have any clues where to
> start finding reference materials for construction?
> 
> Thanks so much, this will be a major project once I
> get underway - just trying to design the embossing on
> that velvet will be a serious challenge.
> 
> Kathy
> 
> It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
> -George Eliot
> An inordinate passion for pleasure is the secret of remaining young.
> -Oscar Wilde
> 
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I wonder if that red material was a very find brushed or sueded leather. 
Leather breeches and jerkins were not unusual and of the few extant 
examples I've seen some were buttery soft and had a slight nap. That 
would certainly make the slashes easier--wouldn't have to finish any edges.

Of course, reproducing the bands would then be a problem. If they are 
fabric over leather that might be hard to match color-wise and might 
look odd, and if they are tooled leather that would be really difficult. 
Unless it's embroidered leather. Can someone refresh my 
memory--embroidery on soft leather--examples?

- Hope

> <>
> Kathy Page writes:
>
> http://www.wga.hu/art/m/moroni/port_sol.jpg
>
> Thanks so much, this will be a major project once I
> get underway - just trying to design the embossing on
> that velvet will be a serious challenge.

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier
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I can think of lots of gloves and a few shoes that were leather with gold 
or polychrome embroidery.  Bridgette / Mari

>  Can someone refresh my memory--embroidery on soft leather--examples?

Mari Stewart
Webmaster
College of Veterinary Medicine
Cornell University


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Subject: [h-cost] looking for early 16thC allegorical images
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I'm looking for something a little odd: allegorical styles from c1500-c1525, from France/Flanders/Netherlands/Germany/Poland/Hungary & Bohemia, etc... just about anywhere within Europe except England, Spain, and Italy.  I'm not looking for the classical drapery sort of allegorical garments, nor the ones that are so similar to what's normally worn that you have to check every single detail to figure out what exactly is out of the norm.  

A good example of what I am looking for is this bit of saints-wear, by Holbein Jr:
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/mi03977f11b.jpg (small)
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/mi03977f11a.jpg (same thing, just larger)
which is clearly fanciful and allegorical, but bears a passing resemblance to something that could have been worn by a real person.

Anyone seen anything along these lines?  Any suggestions for artists who did a whole lot of allegorical works, but didn't use drapery styles?  I've gotten so much in the (bad) habit of turning a blind eye to what's obviously, flat-out allegorical that I haven't even noticed which of my favorite artists did a lot of the kind of thing I'm looking for!  Holbein Jr and Sr both did a good bit of it, as did Durer, but that's about as far as I've gotten. 

-E House
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for early 16thC allegorical images
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E House wrote:
I'm looking for something a little odd: allegorical styles from c1500-c1525, 
from France/Flanders/Netherlands/Germany/Poland/Hungary & Bohemia, etc... 
just about anywhere within Europe except England, Spain, and Italy.  I'm not 
looking for the classical drapery sort of allegorical garments, nor the ones 
that are so similar to what's normally worn that you have to check every 
single detail to figure out what exactly is out of the norm.



Try the Flemish artists like Quentin Massys and Marinus van Reymerswaele. 
Their works include paintings of saints and some moral allegories.
                 -Helen/Aidan

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier
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Historical Costume in Detail has a doublet from about 1625-1630 that is 
leather with embroidery.

Melusine


>
> I can think of lots of gloves and a few shoes that were leather with gold 
> or polychrome embroidery.  Bridgette / Mari
>
>>  Can someone refresh my memory--embroidery on soft leather--examples?
>
> Mari Stewart
> Webmaster
> College of Veterinary Medicine
> Cornell University
>
>
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Jerusha wrote:

> I suspect that what they're talking about is the horizontal strips separating
> the "box-pleated" panes.  If you look at those, you may be able to see that
> there appears to be some sort of tracery pattern on them -- perhaps
> embroidery.
> This image is too small to really tell -- and I"m not finding a better one
> on the web.  :-(

On my screen, the horizontal strips show up very well. They look more like a
jaquard weave to me. That might not be the right term. What I am trying to
say is a geometric pattern woven into threads of the same color. That's how
I would recreate it, not as embroidery or embossing. But a very gorgeous
outfit, however you interpret it!

Gail Finke

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2005 14:51:30 -0500
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The red material is either red suede leather or velvet. The sleeves could be
box pleated but the left forearm and the right cuff make me lean towards
slashes and that the bands are non - applied bands but of the same sleeve
material with embroidery to stop the slashes. Basically, one solid sleeve
with alternating slashes and bands.  So the suede route might be easier and
you could possibly embossed instead of embroider.
Note that the sleeve cuffs have small cloth covers buttons.
Note that the codpiece uses the "embroidered" band design only, no slashes.
The black jerkin looks to be velvet. The garment seems to be a bit odd on
the right shoulder region so I not sure about the cut there.
I am not sure what he has in his hand but it isn't gloves.
Though I don't think there is underwear underneath this, you might want to
make him a set of linen boxers for his own modern mind comfort. (unless he's
use to not wearing any underwear.) From my understanding the pants and
codpiece are what help the special package from bouncing around to much.
Long shirt..
Actually, Margo Anderson has a good pattern for Men that may cut your
trouble in half
http://www.margospatterns.com/mainframe.htm
Just scroll down to the men's pattern, go to the site for that pattern.

Good luck on your challenge.


De

-----Original Message-----
I have someone that has requested me to interpret this
painting into real costume:

http://www.wga.hu/art/m/moroni/port_sol.jpg

Portrait of a Soldier
1555-59
Oil on canvas, 119 x 91 cm
Museo del Prado, Madrid
(snip)
Kathy



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Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2005 21:58:36 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for early 16thC allegorical images
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Not sure about specific artists, but check out crucifixion scenes and 
look for Mary Magdalene.  She is very often distinguished from the other 
women by wearing something outlandish, particularly in sleeves or 
headgear.

Jean

E House <formfunc@formfunction.org> wrote
>I'm looking for something a little odd: allegorical styles from 
>c1500-c1525, from France/Flanders/Netherlands/Germany/Poland/Hungary & 
>Bohemia, etc... just about anywhere within Europe except England, 
>Spain, and Italy.  I'm not looking for the classical drapery sort of 
>allegorical garments, nor the ones that are so similar to what's 
>normally worn that you have to check every single detail to figure out 
>what exactly is out of the norm.
>
>A good example of what I am looking for is this bit of saints-wear, by 
>Holbein Jr:
>http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/mi03977f11b.jpg (small)
>http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/mi03977f11a.jpg (same thing, just larger)
>which is clearly fanciful and allegorical, but bears a passing 
>resemblance to something that could have been worn by a real person.
>
>Anyone seen anything along these lines?  Any suggestions for artists 
>who did a whole lot of allegorical works, but didn't use drapery 
>styles? I've gotten so much in the (bad) habit of turning a blind eye 
>to what's obviously, flat-out allegorical that I haven't even noticed 
>which of my favorite artists did a lot of the kind of thing I'm looking 
>for!  Holbein Jr and Sr both did a good bit of it, as did Durer, but 
>that's about as far as I've gotten.
>
>-E House
>_______________________________________________
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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Date: Wed, 06 Jul 2005 09:26:27 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier
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Kathy Page wrote:

>http://www.wga.hu/art/m/moroni/port_sol.jpg
>
>Portrait of a Soldier
>1555-59
>Oil on canvas, 119 x 91 cm
>Museo del Prado, Madrid
>
>I lack practical experience with men's wear in
>general, let alone this period. This is a skin-out
>project, so I need to know just what I am committing
>to here. I see the following layers:
>*underwear
>*shirt
>*netherstocks
>*jerkin
>*possibly waistcoat, but could be attached sleeves
>*Venetians/Breeches
>
>Sound about right? Anyone have any clues where to
>start finding reference materials for construction?
>  
>

Mostly.  I'd have to guess that he's wearing a black jerkin over a red 
doublet.


-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Maybe you could find a well-illustrated book with a general overview of Flemish saints or something? I just picked up a pretty nice little book about angels from Taschen. I'm making some Christmas angel dolls for my craft booth and I needed inspiration for the costumes. It gave a pretty good overview of lots of artists in different time periods, which gives me a basis to do more research.
 
Tea Rose
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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier
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otsisto wrote:

>Though I don't think there is underwear underneath this, you might want to
>make him a set of linen boxers for his own modern mind comfort. (unless he's
>use to not wearing any underwear.) From my understanding the pants and
>codpiece are what help the special package from bouncing around to much.
>  
>
Nope.  White linen drawers would have been the norm. 

(Can you imagine the condition of a pair of venetians made of 
non-washable fabric after a few wearings without underpants?  Ugh!!)

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Subject: [h-cost] Cotton velvet
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By the way, Fabric.com has eight earthtone-type shades of cotton velvet right now for $10.65 a yard, if anyone's interested.
 
Tara
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier
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Oh that is so good to know! I have seen the results of leather loinclothes
that haven't been cleaned and their not a pretty sight. EEww

De

-----Original Message-----
Nope.  White linen drawers would have been the norm.

(Can you imagine the condition of a pair of venetians made of
non-washable fabric after a few wearings without underpants?  Ugh!!)

--
Adele de Maisieres


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: looking for early 16thC allegorical images
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Jean wrote:

> Not sure about specific artists, but check out crucifixion scenes and
> look for Mary Magdalene. She is very often distinguished from the
> other women by wearing something outlandish, particularly in sleeves
> or headgear.

Tea rose wrote:

> Maybe you could find a well-illustrated book with a general overview
> of Flemish saints or something? I just picked up a pretty nice little
> book about angels from Taschen.

I'm guessing these are indeed the sort of thing E was looking for, but
just in case, it's worth making a clarification: Not all non-realistic
costumes are allegorical. Allegory is a particular kind of non-literal
portrayal (the presentation of a quality or concept via symbols) -- think
of images of the virtues or Fate or the Church. The use of attributes to
identify saints is iconographical, not allegorical. The use of "foreign"
or "historic" elements to mark characters in a story is a visual means of
showing distance in place or time. You can have allegorical elements
working in the same figure as iconography or other visual symbolism, but
they're not all the same thing.

So: Mary Magdalen is not an allegorical figure; she's
historical/religious/biblical. Her costume may include specific accepted
attributes for identification (e.g. the ointment jar), symbols to put her
in a time/place context (foreign headdress, Biblical sandals), and/or
elements to indicate her personal characteristics (sexy or expensive
clothing to indicate her background as a courtesan, undone hair to
indicate grief, a cross or rosary to indicate piety, etc.). None of those
happen to be allegorical in the technical sense.

Costumer's shorthand, though, tends to call all of these things
"allegorical," because they are all unreliable for a realistic
interpretation. And I think we all understand that, but I figured it was
worth pointing out that not all scholars outside of costume would
understand the term in this way. So if E wants to ask an art historian for
examples of "allegorical art," she'll get only a subset of what she's
probably looking for. And if she describes certain uses as allegorical,
some people will misunderstand what she is saying.

This is something I have been sloppy about in the past, and I should have
known better, since my original exposure to this terminology was through
art history and literary criticism, not costume! I tend to be much more
careful when talking with other scholars than when I'm talking with
costumers who I'm certain are more interested in the basic distinction of
real/not-real, not "why is it not real."

E, if you're looking for the migration of certain costume elements from
real life to symbolic use, or the other way around, you might do well to
distinguish the various types of symbolic use, e.g. you may find the
pattern in some forms of painting but not others. To the medieval artist,
there was as much difference between an historical treatment and an
allegorical one as there was between a either of those and a portrait. And
as much overlap!

--Robin

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: looking for early 16thC allegorical images
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I was definitely using 'allegorical' as shorthand, since it's the most 
common term used on this list for the type of thing I'm seeking.  I'm 
looking for images of saints, foreigners, religious figures, historical 
figures, allegorical figures, and even royalty depicted in clothing that is, 
for one reason or another, not what would have been worn by any actual human 
being of that time period.  I'm also looking for fashions that are odd 
enough that it would take a lot of proof to call them realistic.  But that 
takes a lot longer to say. =}  I do ask in different terms on a list like 
this than I would ask in, say, a museum.  However, it is certainly good to 
make that distinction--especially since I'm looking for as large a subset as 
possible!

-E House

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I just got my weekly online ad from Hancock's Fabric - normally I just 
ignore them, but this looks like it might have interest for those who do 
needlework at events:

<http://www.hancockfabrics.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1229&itemType=CATEGORY&iMainCat=1218&iSubCat=1229&page=1>

It's a collection of "heirloom" looking sewing tools, including tape 
measure, seam ripper, needle case, etc.  that comes in both silver and gold 
finishes.

Sandy

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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At 09:37 PM 7/5/2005, you wrote:
>I just got my weekly online ad from Hancock's Fabric - normally I 
>just ignore them, but this looks like it might have interest for 
>those who do needlework at events:
>
><http://www.hancockfabrics.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1229&itemType=CATEGORY&iMainCat=1218&iSubCat=1229&page=1>
>
>It's a collection of "heirloom" looking sewing tools, including tape 
>measure, seam ripper, needle case, etc.  that comes in both silver 
>and gold finishes.
>
>Sandy

Some of these would be lovely for 19th century events (especially for 
1870s or later).

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier
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Hi Kathy,

It sounds like your listing of garments is about right, although I call a 
waistcoat a doublet. I am not as familiar with the Italian styles, but I 
have done a few men's 16th c. garments in the past few years, English and 
German (who so loved those cuttes and slashes). You may get more info on 
the slashing and cuttes from those who do German fashions. There is a group 
on yahoogroups, and the people there are very helpful (and some were on 
here, but not sure if they still are).

Some observations, fwiw. The fabric to me appears to be a sueded leather, 
velvet or even a fulled tight weave yet fuzzy looking wool (similar to 
today's heavy coat wool). My reasoning is that on the upper thigh, it 
appears more to be a reversed embossing where the pile has flattened along 
the decorative edges and is shiny there while the design and main material 
is matte in appearance. I don't know if they could do a reversed emboss 
back then, so that's just speculation on my part.

If the fabric is leather or a tight, fulled wool, cuttes are easily done 
with no fraying of the edges.

If the fabric is velvet, then the edges might not be finished. Many 
articles of pinked and slashed garments in Janet Arnold's Patterns of 
Fashion book shows obvious fraying. What can minimize fraying is cutting on 
the bias, or glueing the edges if you really want (like Fraycheck, although 
that *will* change the look of the fabric). It may be that the sleeves and 
breeches were created on the bias to allow the slits to be vertical, yet 
still minimize the fraying, and allow for a comfortable, yet relatively 
tight fit, and allow for good movement, something a soldier would want.

The jerkin is obviously slashed to show the doublet underneath. There may 
be a third slash that cannot be seen because of the angle of the model. 
However, considering the right slash (from the viewer) is showing the 
buttons of the doublet, I am inclined to think there is a third slash 
further right showing off more of the cut work of the doublet underneath. 
You can sew the lining to the fashion fabric of the jerkin to prevent any 
fraying, or sew them in sections for a similar effect.

I am wondering what the bump on the side of the codpiece really is. It 
breaks the line of the jerkin's edge. I also wonder what the shiny thing 
above the codpiece is as well.

On the small slashes of the sleeves and breeches, from experience I know 
that when a garment area is cut in that manner, it will naturally open up a 
bit more, giving the look of being bigger than the bands that aren't cut. 
It is my suggestion to have one piece of material, and alternate between 
cut bands and uncut fabric, instead of sewing larger cut bands onto uncut 
bands. However, the best thing is to experiment with this yourself, and see 
what you think is best.

And definitely stabilize the collar area of the jerkin, padstitching the 
foundation fabrics to the main fabric. I did that for my husband's doublet, 
and it really gets that collar to stay upright and proper looking.

Good luck, and keep us informed on your progress. I would love to see your 
final garments.

Kimiko


At 08:29 PM 7/4/2005, you wrote:
>I have someone that has requested me to interpret this
>painting into real costume:
>
>http://www.wga.hu/art/m/moroni/port_sol.jpg
>
>Portrait of a Soldier
><snip for space>>
>Kathy



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: [h-cos } pants........ what a "waist"
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Heavens, yes! I made a simple skirt, with an elastisized waist in a casing, for a Magenta costume, for the same young friend who only wore hipster jeans - and she kept pulling the skirt down on her hips! She politely listened when I adjusted the skirt back to where it belonged, and then promptly pulled it back down again. <sigh>
 
At least she never tried to do that with the loaner skirt she had for her 17thC costume. :-) Although she would have been tripping over the hem all the time if she did that.

Joannah. 

--- Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com> wrote:

<snip>
Then again, I have had the same discussion with my two teen-age
daughters about where their waists are. It's pitiful to try to fit
anything with a hoop skirt on them because they insist that the waist
of the skirt goes down where their jean tops are. And they're angry at
me because I don't know my own anatomy! I ask, "Does it fit better
here and does it feel better here?" "Yeah." "And that's where it
belongs, right near your belly button." "But that's not where my waist
is." I've given up the semantic argument and tell them that These
Particular Clothes fit HERE not where they wear their jeans. That
sometimes ends argument for the time.
LynnD


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Belt clasp for the sword belt.

-----Original Message-----
(snip)
 I also wonder what the shiny thing 
above the codpiece is as well.



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From: ladysarafina@att.net (Sarafina Sinclair)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Greetings,

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to have a woman's elizabethan doublet lie down (relatively) flat using hooks and eyes (for a large busted woman)? The last time I tried, I ended up with uncontrollable gaps and I eventually gave up and just put on all eyes and laced it up.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Sarafina
--
The Honourable Lady Sarafina Sinclair, CE 
http://ladysarafina.home.att.net 
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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hooks and eyes on doublets
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Sarafina Sinclair wrote:

>Greetings,
>
>Does anyone have any suggestions on how to have a woman's elizabethan doublet lie down (relatively) flat using hooks and eyes (for a large busted woman)? The last time I tried, I ended up with uncontrollable gaps and I eventually gave up and just put on all eyes and laced it up.
>
>Any help is greatly appreciated!
>
>  
>

Depends... if the doublet's being worn over bodies or a kirtle-bodies 
(as it should), it should only be a matter of using sufficient hooks and 
eyes.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hooks and eyes on doublets
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At 08:28 PM 7/6/2005, you wrote:
>Greetings,
>
>Does anyone have any suggestions on how to have a woman's elizabethan 
>doublet lie down (relatively) flat using hooks and eyes (for a large 
>busted woman)? The last time I tried, I ended up with uncontrollable gaps 
>and I eventually gave up and just put on all eyes and laced it up.
>
>Any help is greatly appreciated!
>
>Thanks,
>
>Sarafina
>--
>The Honourable Lady Sarafina Sinclair, CE
>http://ladysarafina.home.att.net


Hello Sarafina,

The best suggestion I have is to place the hooks where they are just 
peeking over the one edge, and then place the eyes further in from the edge 
(and further in then you think at first glance). Then to alternate between 
the hooks and eyes, if you are sewing each set individually (vs. using hook 
& eye tape).

hth,

Kimiko


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From: Alex Doyle <garbaholic@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hooks and eyes on doublets
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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And setting the hooks and eyes into the seam/between the lining and
outer layer of fabric, so only a bit of the hook or eye shows.  

alex

--- Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz> wrote:

> Sarafina Sinclair wrote:
> 
> >Greetings,
> >
> >Does anyone have any suggestions on how to have a woman's
> elizabethan doublet lie down (relatively) flat using hooks and eyes
> (for a large busted woman)? The last time I tried, I ended up with
> uncontrollable gaps and I eventually gave up and just put on all eyes
> and laced it up.
> >
> >Any help is greatly appreciated!
> >
> >  
> >
> 
> Depends... if the doublet's being worn over bodies or a kirtle-bodies
> 
> (as it should), it should only be a matter of using sufficient hooks
> and 
> eyes.
> 
> -- 
> Adele de Maisieres
> 
> -----------------------------
> Quot homines, tot sententiae.
> ----------------------------- 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 

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In one word, boning.
Not only good boning in the corset she's surely wearing underneath, but
also additional boning in the doublet, especially along the edges where 
you're putting the fasteners.
Also, ensuring the doublet fits properly, and making it out of fabrics 
that aren't flimsy will help.
I don't wear 'bethans much any more, having largely gone to an earlier 
time period for my SCA stuff, but I'm extremely large-busted, and as 
long as the top was fitted and boned, and of sufficient strength, I 
never had a gaposis problem.
--sue
p.s.  Putting the hooks and eyes relatively close together helps as 
well.  I tended to use the pre-made hook-and-eye tape when I could get 
away with it. ;o)

Sarafina Sinclair wrote:

> Greetings,
> 
> Does anyone have any suggestions on how to have a woman's elizabethan
> doublet lie down (relatively) flat using hooks and eyes (for a large
> busted woman)? The last time I tried, I ended up with uncontrollable
> gaps and I eventually gave up and just put on all eyes and laced it
> up.

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jul  7 01:06:26 2005
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] hooks and eyes on doublets
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Set the hooks slightly back from the edge, and have the eye  slightly out 
from the opposing edge, with a strip of the fashion  fabric protruding about an 
inch or so behind them as an underlap. Use lots of  them.
 
If the front is curved [as is the cut in Janet Arnold], it helps to run a  
line of running stitches at the bulge of the curve and SLIGHTLY ease  in the 
outside edge. You can do this right on the fold if self faced.....so it  won't 
show. Press it on a ham. This is particularly effective if you have  an overlap 
or underlap...like with buttons, but will help with edge to edge  closings 
too. 
 
The ease thingie is good on 18 century men's coats with curved CFs  
too....even if the don't close at all.
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At 08:28 PM 7/6/2005, you wrote:
>Greetings,
>
>Does anyone have any suggestions on how to have a woman's 
>elizabethan doublet lie down (relatively) flat using hooks and eyes 
>(for a large busted woman)? The last time I tried, I ended up with 
>uncontrollable gaps and I eventually gave up and just put on all 
>eyes and laced it up.
>
>Any help is greatly appreciated!
>
>Thanks,
>
>Sarafina
>--
>The Honourable Lady Sarafina Sinclair, CE
>http://ladysarafina.home.att.net

My doublet closes with hooks and eyes.  The hooks and eyes need to be 
no more than about an inch apart and placed so that the front edges 
of the doublet meet; any farther apart and they leave gaps.  Also, 
the doublet should not be too tightly fitted; leave a little bit of 
ease.  The hooks and eyes should not be straining to hold the doublet closed.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net  

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Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 05:48:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hooks and eyes on doublets
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Boning down both edges helps.  Put the hooks and eyes about an inch apart (yep, it's a real bother, but closer is better) AND add a modesty panel along one side.  It will make you feel more secure and will hide any little gaps that happen from time to time no matter how well made and how well fitted the doublet is.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- ladysarafina@att.net (Sarafina Sinclair) wrote:

From: ladysarafina@att.net (Sarafina Sinclair)
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 03:28:44 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] hooks and eyes on doublets

Greetings,

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to have a woman's elizabethan doublet lie down (relatively) flat using hooks and eyes (for a large busted woman)? The last time I tried, I ended up with uncontrollable gaps and I eventually gave up and just put on all eyes and laced it up.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Sarafina
--
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http://ladysarafina.home.att.net 
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Subject: [h-cost] folks in London ok??
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Do any of our list members live in London? If so, has anyone heard from them 
and are they alright?

I've spent the last half hour watching the morning news and am concerned.

kate 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] folks in London ok??
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I've heard from Teddy and he's okay. He was at work by the time the
explosions happened. He will probably be stuck staying at a friend's
house this evening as the Tube service from where he works (north and
west in London) to where he lives (Wimbledon, far south of London) is
pretty much nonfunctional.



Karen
Seamstrix



On Thu, 7 Jul 2005 08:58:52 -0400 "Ailith Mackintosh" <ailith@neo.rr.com>
writes:
> Do any of our list members live in London? If so, has anyone heard 
> from them 
> and are they alright?
> 
> I've spent the last half hour watching the morning news and am 
> concerned.
> 
> kate 
> 
> 
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> 
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From: ladysarafina@att.net (Sarafina Sinclair)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hooks and eyes on doublets
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 13:20:51 +0000
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Thanks for the suggestions everyone!

I think my problem was the spacing on the hooks and eyes. I need to move them closer together and change where they sit on the edge. I do wear a proper corset and all the other stuff that goes under the doublet and it fits quite well. I guess with lacing you can get away with the eyes being farther apart. It already has 28 sets of eyes and I will probably have to add in half again as many. I was hoping to not have to remove all of them and start over, but that's life. The closer you get to the end of a project, the more work that pops up. I hope to wear this gown in a few weeks and I'll post pics on my website.

Thanks again!

Sarafina
--
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I was horrified to read in the news this morning that some damned 
terrorist group was setting off bombs in London today, and that there 
were casualties.  My thoughts and prayers are with anyone dealing with 
the effects of that violence....
Does anyone have a way of contacting Teddy, and seeing if he's okay? I 
know he's off-list at the moment....
--Sue from Montana

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I am rally glad to hear that our London Frieds are Okay! 
 
Satine

		
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Subject: [h-cost] London troubles
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 Dear List folks

London is indeed in trouble - so far four explosions,
timed to cause a lot of pain and injury. It will be
tomorrow before final death and casualty numbers are
known since explosions took place within tunnels on
the tube. Further controlled explosions have taken
place but they don't seem to think any more will take
place. Suzi - are you ok???  You and all the
otherlondoners are in our thoughts.

Susan, feeling guilty for complaining about the G8
protesters in her backyard all weekend...


		
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For those of us in the US that are awaiting delivery of NESAT 7, David 
Brown Books has notified me that

"NESAT 7 will be arriving here in early August.  It is already on its way 
to us in a surface shipment."

Beth 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier
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At 11:49 AM 7/6/2005, you wrote:
>Belt clasp for the sword belt.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>(snip)
>  I also wonder what the shiny thing
>above the codpiece is as well.


That's an interesting style for a belt clasp. Thanks.

Kimiko


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] folks in London ok??
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 15:07:25 +0200
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Hi,
I hope also everybody we know are safe. It is really scary.
They also told Denmark to keep out of the war, so i guess Copenhagen could 
be hit next time, i use the subway every day to my work.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ailith Mackintosh" <ailith@neo.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2005 2:58 PM
Subject: [h-cost] folks in London ok??


> Do any of our list members live in London? If so, has anyone heard from 
> them and are they alright?
>
> I've spent the last half hour watching the morning news and am concerned.
>
> kate
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 


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Is Stevie Gamble still on list? I know she lives in London.
 
Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] folks in London ok??
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 14:32:01 +0100
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My daughter Bella was caught up in it, had to leave the Tube first,
and then was on a bus when they were all evacuated because there was
supposed to be a bomb on it. She's very, very shaken up, but OK. Good
to hear that Teddy is fine
Stevie


----- Original Message -----
From: "Ailith Mackintosh" <ailith@neo.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2005 1:58 PM
Subject: [h-cost] folks in London ok??


> Do any of our list members live in London? If so, has anyone heard
from them
> and are they alright?
>
> I've spent the last half hour watching the morning news and am
concerned.
>
> kate
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jul  7 12:20:34 2005
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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 12:13:35 -0400
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: folks in London OK?
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    This is simply stunning news. I shouldn't be surprised. But I am.

    Look, from Canada, from the Stephens household (which has very deep 
roots in England) we send all our thoughts and wishes.

Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
historical sewing patterns; quality, hand-crafted cooperage; embroidery 
supplies, and more.
www.5rivers.org - info@5rivers.org
519-799-5577 

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Status: RO

This may be a bit off topic since it's not clothing...but it is historic.

A friend is trying to research how wall hangings were actually hung.  I suggested she get in touch with some English museums but then remembered there are many UK folks here.

How did they keep those gorgeous tapestries on the castle walls?

Thanks
Julie in San Diego

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Date: Wed, 06 Jul 2005 20:45:54 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hooks and eyes on doublets
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At 08:28 PM 7/6/2005, you wrote:
>Greetings,
>
>Does anyone have any suggestions on how to have a woman's 
>elizabethan doublet lie down (relatively) flat using hooks and eyes 
>(for a large busted woman)? The last time I tried, I ended up with 
>uncontrollable gaps and I eventually gave up and just put on all 
>eyes and laced it up.
>
>Any help is greatly appreciated!
>
>Thanks,
>
>Sarafina
>--
>The Honourable Lady Sarafina Sinclair, CE
>http://ladysarafina.home.att.net

My doublet closes with hooks and eyes.  The hooks and eyes need to be 
no more than about an inch apart and placed so that the front edges 
of the doublet meet; any farther apart and they leave gaps.  Also, 
the doublet should not be too tightly fitted; leave a little bit of 
ease.  The hooks and eyes should not be straining to hold the doublet closed.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Glad to hear you are okay too, Stevie! 


Karen
Seamstrix

-- "STEPHANIE GAMBLE" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com> wrote:
My daughter Bella was caught up in it, had to leave the Tube first,
and then was on a bus when they were all evacuated because there was
supposed to be a bomb on it. She's very, very shaken up, but OK. Good
to hear that Teddy is fine
Stevie


----- Original Message -----
From: "Ailith Mackintosh" <ailith@neo.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2005 1:58 PM
Subject: [h-cost] folks in London ok??


> Do any of our list members live in London? If so, has anyone heard
from them
> and are they alright?
>
> I've spent the last half hour watching the morning news and am
concerned.
>
> kate
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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A couple of folks have mentioned hook-and-eye tape; and I've seen/heard 
several
folks say to alternate hooks and eyes on each side; and most folks say "close
together."

What about using hook and eye tape and then attaching additional "opposite"
fasteners (i.e., hooks on the eye-side, and eyes on the hook-side) between the
ones that are already on the tape?

Jerusha
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] folks in London ok??
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 20:23:17 +0200
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Hi Stephen, and all others in London 
Glad that you are ok and Bella two.
Give her a big hug from me.
It is terrible.................

Bjarne
 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "STEPHANIE GAMBLE" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2005 3:32 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] folks in London ok??


> My daughter Bella was caught up in it, had to leave the Tube first,
> and then was on a bus when they were all evacuated because there was
> supposed to be a bomb on it. She's very, very shaken up, but OK. Good
> to hear that Teddy is fine
> Stevie
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ailith Mackintosh" <ailith@neo.rr.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2005 1:58 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] folks in London ok??
> 
> 
>> Do any of our list members live in London? If so, has anyone heard
> from them
>> and are they alright?
>>
>> I've spent the last half hour watching the morning news and am
> concerned.
>>
>> kate
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: london bombings
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British members:

I am so sorry to hear the news about the bombings. It's been on the
television and radio all day here. My heart goes out to all of you and your
countrymen.

Gail Finke in Cincinnati, Ohio
 

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From: Pam Dotson <dotsontwo@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] folks in London ok??
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Stevie, I'm so glad to hear from you!  You and Bella were the first thing I thought of when I heard about the bombs.  Continue to take care, and take care of Bella.
 
Pam Dotson

STEPHANIE GAMBLE <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com> wrote:
My daughter Bella was caught up in it, had to leave the Tube first,
and then was on a bus when they were all evacuated because there was
supposed to be a bomb on it. She's very, very shaken up, but OK. Good
to hear that Teddy is fine
Stevie


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Thank God she is all right!

Very glad our friends over there are ok.

Arlys

On Thu, 7 Jul 2005 14:32:01 +0100 "STEPHANIE GAMBLE"
<stevie.gamble@btinternet.com> writes:
> My daughter Bella was caught up in it, had to leave the Tube first,
> and then was on a bus when they were all evacuated because there was
> supposed to be a bomb on it. She's very, very shaken up, but OK. 
> Good
> to hear that Teddy is fine
> Stevie

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Hope everybody down south's ok.

Debbie.
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] NESAT 7
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 19:54:50 -0400
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On Thursday 07 July 2005 10:58 am, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
> For those of us in the US that are awaiting delivery of NESAT 7, David
> Brown Books has notified me that
>
> "NESAT 7 will be arriving here in early August.  It is already on its way
> to us in a surface shipment."

Arrrgh.  August.  Thanks for the information, though; I was beginning to 
wonder.  They originally thought they might have it by the end of June.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
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Cc: Nicola  Boyd <nicolaboyd@hotmail.com>,
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        Reconstructing History <Patterns@reconstructinghistory.com>,
        Schaz  Stevens <sangomas@yahoo.co.uk>,
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Subject: [h-cost] Corset, for a giggle
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Had to share this - it gave me a major case of the giggles :-D

http://thedevilspanties.keenspace.com/d/20050623.html

Hope you enjoyed!

Joannah.

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Jul  8 01:55:39 2005
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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roar
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Regarding Roar - I have some friends and aquaintances who were extras on the series - one of these aquaintances was *obviously* pregnant during filming, and somebody involved in the production asked her, in terms of astonishment, " Did they have babies that way back then? " ( or words to that effect ). Doh! 

Joannah
 
--- Lady Satine <seamuslady@yahoo.com> wrote:
<snip>
I loved It its a miniseries I was told by a friend that they are trying to do the same thing with this as they did with Roar a few years ago staring Heath ledger if it goes it may be a ongoing series.. we will see... I liked the garb it looked comfy! 


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On behalf of my fellows, many thanks for all your messages of sympathy.
They are much appreciated.

Debloughcostumes@aol.com wrote:
> Hope everybody down south's ok.
> 
> Debbie.
> _______________________________________________

Here on the edge of the London region, we're alright.
Life goes on as usual - just a different cause for today's traffic jams.
A few people have 'lucky escape' stories to tell.
It's the usual aftermath of another attempt to terrorise us.
You'd think history would tell them it's not worth it.
Others have tried a lot harder and not succeeded.

Is anyone keeping a record of changes in uniform of the emergency 
services staff?
Future re-enactors might want to know!

Linda Walton,
(in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.).
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Subject: [h-cost] a tiny bit OT, fabric structure question
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What is the difference between damask and jacquard?

I ask because I just finished ironing a huge pile of napkins and 4 large 
tablecloths that were originally my grandmothers'. So they could be as 
old as early 20th century (one looks very art deco to me) to probably 
the 50s or 60s.

Also, any preferred cleaning method to lighten the yellowed areas on 
some of the pieces? I believe they are all linen: iron like linen, 
wrinkle like linen, wash like linen. It won't kill me to toss the 
yellowed pieces, but I'd like to try cleaning them anyway.
I have washed them in hot water with regular laundry detergent and some 
liquid bleach. No difference.

liz young

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Hi,
A couple of sites I found by googling 'linen care' and ' bleaching yellowed linen'.

http://www.srfabrics.com/care/linen.htm

http://www.touchofeurope.net/care.html 
     - this site you need to scroll down to the relevant parts.

Good luck with whatever you decide to try.

Joannah. 

--- Elizabeth Young <lizyoung@fenris.net> wrote:

From: Elizabeth Young <lizyoung@fenris.net>
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 23:40:22 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] a tiny bit OT, fabric structure question

What is the difference between damask and jacquard?

I ask because I just finished ironing a huge pile of napkins and 4 large 
tablecloths that were originally my grandmothers'. So they could be as 
old as early 20th century (one looks very art deco to me) to probably 
the 50s or 60s.

Also, any preferred cleaning method to lighten the yellowed areas on 
some of the pieces? I believe they are all linen: iron like linen, 
wrinkle like linen, wash like linen. It won't kill me to toss the 
yellowed pieces, but I'd like to try cleaning them anyway.
I have washed them in hot water with regular laundry detergent and some 
liquid bleach. No difference.

liz young

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>What is the difference between damask and jacquard?

I think the relationship is that Damask is a fabric produced by the 
jacquard weaving method.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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In a message dated 7/8/2005 6:03:13 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
kayta@frys.com writes:

I think  the relationship is that Damask is a fabric produced by the 
jacquard  weaving method.



That is close.  Damask and brocade are both elaborately patterned  weaves.  
Damask always has a satin background and is reversible.   Brocade can have a 
satin or twill background and is not reversible.
 
The jacquard attachment, invented in the early 19th century, could be  
attached to a loom automate such patterns, as it were.  The most elaborate  patterns 
can be woven on the simplest loom--it just takes forever!  The  draw loom, 
where each thread is controlled individually, enabled patterned  weaves, but was 
still very slow--a "drawboy" would draw up each row of threads  according to 
the pattern for the weaver.  The "barrel" loom was another  development in 
patterned weaving--think of a mechanism kind of like the cylinder  in a music box.
 
So, jacquard is NOT a weave, nor is it even a loom--it is an attachment  that 
can be installed on a loom.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Everyone in London okay?
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>; <H-Needlework@ansteorra.org>
Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2005 9:38 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Everyone in London okay?


> I was horrified to read in the news this morning that some damned
> terrorist group was setting off bombs in London today, and that there
> were casualties.  My thoughts and prayers are with anyone dealing with
> the effects of that violence....
> Does anyone have a way of contacting Teddy, and seeing if he's okay? I
> know he's off-list at the moment....

Teddy posted several times to Live Journal yesterday. He was stuck in
London, but unhurt.

Dianne
> --Sue from Montana
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>Damask always has a satin background and is reversible.   Brocade can have a
>satin or twill background and is not reversible.

I thought the difference between Damask and Brocade was that Damask was all 
one color and Brocade was more than one.  But both could be woven by the 
Jacquard process, involving those punch-cards.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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In a message dated 7/8/2005 8:18:10 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
kayta@frys.com writes:

thought  the difference between Damask and Brocade was that Damask was all 
one  color and Brocade was more than one.  


And I believe you are right about that--I think that damask is all one  color.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 433
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> However leads me to a question! how does one keep veils on when nothing 
> ever stays I have tried everything this side of glue and staples to keep 
> veils on  even the folding method. any suggestions????

The secret is pins.

I've used two methods
1 - I make a little bunch of hair with rubber bands (they don't slip like 
elastics made for hair tend to do), one at the front of my head, one at the 
back, and pin through the elastic to keep the veil in place. It makes a 
little bump, but it doesn't show too much.
2 - I wear a white cap under the veil. I tie it at the back of my head or 
under my chin, depending if the veil will cover the ties in front or not. 
When tied at the nape of my neck, I bring the front down lower than my 
hairline, to make sure it stays. Then I pin the veil to it, making sure I 
hide everything underneath.

The second technique is much more comfortable than anything else I've tried. 
My hair is short and slippery, so nothing holds to it :-) 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Items of possible interest
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> <http://www.hancockfabrics.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1229&itemType=CATEGORY&iMainCat=1218&iSubCat=1229&page=1>
>
> It's a collection of "heirloom" looking sewing tools, including tape 
> measure, seam ripper, needle case, etc.  that comes in both silver and 
> gold finishes.

You might also be interested in what Historic Enterprises 
(www.historicenterprises.com) have
a Sewing kit 
http://www.historicenterprises.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=67&c=38
and a Repair Kit 
http://www.historicenterprises.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=221&c=38
They're very, very nice. Not rated as super historical on their site, but 
good enough for what I do... One day I'll buy one. Or buy the pieces 
separately, and eventually build myself one :-) Let's just say I have other 
priorities for now... 
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Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:

> 2 - I wear a white cap under the veil.

I've tried this method, and the issue I have is that even the cap 
doesn't stay. I can be sitting still and within about 10 minutes the 
little bugger slides right off the back of my head, even if it's tied 
under my chin!

I know they're modern, but the only thing I can get to stay on my head 
for any length of time are those Chinese hair nets with the elastic in 
them, and even those I have to pin down!


Dawn



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Dawn wrote:

>> 2 - I wear a white cap under the veil.
> 
> I've tried this method, and the issue I have is that even the cap 
> doesn't stay. I can be sitting still and within about 10 minutes the 
> little bugger slides right off the back of my head, even if it's tied 
> under my chin!

Do you have the "made from a square" early sort, or the later one with 
three pieces, which narrows down a bit toward the face?  The latter 
might stay better.  Also using a rougher fabric might help -- a larger 
weave linen, for example.

cv

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

   "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81
        "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia Virtue
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> Dawn wrote:
>
>>> 2 - I wear a white cap under the veil.
>>
>> I've tried this method, and the issue I have is that even the cap doesn't 
>> stay. I can be sitting still and within about 10 minutes the little 
>> bugger slides right off the back of my head, even if it's tied under my 
>> chin!
>
> Do you have the "made from a square" early sort, or the later one with 
> three pieces, which narrows down a bit toward the face?  The latter might 
> stay better.  Also using a rougher fabric might help -- a larger weave 
> linen, for example.
>
> cv

If it's any help, I used Margo's patterns to make mine, and it's the 
three-piece kind. I think the front edge is all on the grain so it doesn't 
stretch at all. As I said, I usually wear it low in front (a good 1/2 inch 
below my hairline) and tie it at the nape of my neck. So it actually holds 
to skin, not hair, in front. 
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Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2005 19:23:41 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] veils
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I don't know when your persona is, but you might try looking into a
medieval linen coif. They were a very popular item for both genders.

I cheated a bit on mine. It's got a cotton shell, and a flannel lining.
Warm when you want warm. In hot weather, you can get it soaking wet,
wring it out, and you'll stay comfortable for hours--the shell dries
quickly, but the cotton doesn't.

The same friend who made this one to my specs is making another one for
me of linen--both layers.

Back to veils--I hate underpinnings for veils. I don't use any. My
circlet is lined with leather strapping with bias tape over that, so it
has lots of tooth and doesn't let the veil slide into the sunset. I
recently made a cross stitched headband, using canvas as the ground
fabric, and folded the edges to the back and stitched them down. Again,
the back has plenty of tooth and won't let the veil drop.

Arlys

On Fri, 08 Jul 2005 16:22:06 -0500 Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> writes:
> Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:
> 
> > 2 - I wear a white cap under the veil.
> 
> I've tried this method, and the issue I have is that even the cap 
> doesn't stay. I can be sitting still and within about 10 minutes the 
> 
> little bugger slides right off the back of my head, even if it's 
> tied 
> under my chin!
> 
> I know they're modern, but the only thing I can get to stay on my 
> head 
> for any length of time are those Chinese hair nets with the elastic 
> in 
> them, and even those I have to pin down!
> 
> 
> Dawn
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Date: Fri, 08 Jul 2005 20:32:33 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Items of possible interest
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>You might also be interested in what Historic Enterprises 
>(www.historicenterprises.com) have
>a Sewing kit 
>http://www.historicenterprises.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=67&c=38
>and a Repair Kit 
>http://www.historicenterprises.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=221&c=38
>They're very, very nice. Not rated as super historical on their site, but 
>good enough for what I do... One day I'll buy one. Or buy the pieces 
>separately, and eventually build myself one :-)

You'll save a ton of money buying the parts separately, elsewhere, and 
building one yourself.  You can do better than their box too.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
            ((((   7 )))
             (((  <> ))))
                )   ((((((
           /----\   /---\))

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For those who have been asking about Suzi Clark in London, she would like 
me to pass on the word that she and her family are okay.  She is having 
difficulty posting to the list.
Dawn


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From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
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At 07:58 AM 7/7/2005, you wrote:
>For those of us in the US that are awaiting delivery of NESAT 7, David 
>Brown Books has notified me that
>
>"NESAT 7 will be arriving here in early August.  It is already on its way 
>to us in a surface shipment."
>
>Beth


For those of us scratching our heads... what is NESAT 7??

Kimiko


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:) lol

-----Original Message-----
Had to share this - it gave me a major case of the giggles :-D

http://thedevilspanties.keenspace.com/d/20050623.html

Hope you enjoyed!

Joannah.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] hanging a hanging
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A row of loops or rings round a horizontal pole? I've seen modern tapestries hung that way.
 
Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> jtknits@jtknits.cts.com 07/07/2005 17:22 >>>

This may be a bit off topic since it's not clothing...but it is historic.

A friend is trying to research how wall hangings were actually hung.  I suggested she get in touch with some English museums but then remembered there are many UK folks here.

How did they keep those gorgeous tapestries on the castle walls?

Thanks
Julie in San Diego

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] a tiny bit OT, fabric structure question
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Actually, I had the old way work for me on a yellowed spot on a dishtowel- I
got it soaking wet- just tap water, wrung it out then hung in the sun to
dry.. my towel was hung on a concrete pillar of a building, but I'm sure a
windowsill or shrub would be much more period.
Hope this helps, worth a try anyway (course you may have to re-iron..darn.)
Betsy
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Elizabeth Young
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2005 1:40 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] a tiny bit OT, fabric structure question

What is the difference between damask and jacquard?

I ask because I just finished ironing a huge pile of napkins and 4 large 
tablecloths that were originally my grandmothers'. So they could be as 
old as early 20th century (one looks very art deco to me) to probably 
the 50s or 60s.

Also, any preferred cleaning method to lighten the yellowed areas on 
some of the pieces? I believe they are all linen: iron like linen, 
wrinkle like linen, wash like linen. It won't kill me to toss the 
yellowed pieces, but I'd like to try cleaning them anyway.
I have washed them in hot water with regular laundry detergent and some 
liquid bleach. No difference.

liz young

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> Slashing with a 5/8" chisel worked very well--

What did you use? A woodworking chisel, or a pinking chisel, or something 
made especially for slashing? 
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Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> 
> Do you have the "made from a square" early sort, or the later one with 
> three pieces, which narrows down a bit toward the face?  The latter 
> might stay better.  Also using a rougher fabric might help -- a larger 
> weave linen, for example.

It's made from a rectangle, the seam is across the top and the back has 
been gathered to fit the curve of my head.  It was actually a mock-up, 
but it came out well enough I never made one in linen. I guess it's time 
to do that. :)



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] folks in London ok??
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Glad to know everybody is okay.

I was in France, trying to get back to Canada. The planes were all late 
because they were triple-checking passports and doubling security checks. I 
grew up in the 80s, when nothing seemed to be happening worldwide - as if 
all the great wars and human-caused tragedies were behind us. It's very 
disquieting for me to see things like this starting to happen again... 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] hanging a hanging
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Kate M Bunting wrote:

> A row of loops or rings round a horizontal pole? I've seen modern tapestries hung that way.

The images I've seen would be consistent with nails or hooks in the 
walls, and metal rings sewn on the backs of the tapestries.  Or possibly 
nails straght through the fabric.

Here's some examples:

http://humanities.uchicago.edu/images/heures/january.jpg

http://www.godecookery.com/afeast/feasts/fea005.html

http://www.godecookery.com/afeast/feasts/fea026.html

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pr? Argent

In the 1960s I was taught that Werner von Braun and the other Germans 
admitted to the United States had been Nazis in name only and had not 
perpetrated war crimes.  This is a lie generated by our government.  -- 
M.G. Lord in _Astro_Turf_
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From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2005 09:11:07 -0400
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On my monitor, the codpiece looks like it has a stripe of black velvet about 
an inch or two wide running down the front of it with a shiny black button 
(?) right in the middle---constructed like the sides are red and the center 
front is black.   What would the black "button" be? Or am I seeing things?
Kate
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 06, 2005 11:47 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier


> At 11:49 AM 7/6/2005, you wrote:
>>Belt clasp for the sword belt.
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>(snip)
>>  I also wonder what the shiny thing
>>above the codpiece is as well.
>
>
> That's an interesting style for a belt clasp. Thanks.
>
> Kimiko
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] NESAT 7
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The NESAT series are the published proceedings for the conferences of the 
Northern European Society for Archaeological Textiles.

For a list of the first 7:
http://home.arcor.de/dieter.kadereit/NESAT/

NESAT 8 is also out. My copy was shipped (from Poland) two months ago and 
I'm expecting (hoping for) it any day now. Contact me if you would like a 
copy of the flyer.

Copies of NESAT 4 and 5 are listed as still available via Oxbow and DBBC. 
All others are out of print, though a copy of NESAT 2 was listed by ABE and 
ILAB from Kirkegaards Antikvariat (Denmark). This is where I got my copy. 
I'm still looking for NESAT 1, 3 and 6.

Beth

At 06:50 AM 7/9/2005, you wrote:
>Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 23:04:54 -0700
>From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] NESAT 7
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Message-ID: <6.2.1.2.0.20050707230434.03537418@64.87.54.245>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
>At 07:58 AM 7/7/2005, you wrote:
> >For those of us in the US that are awaiting delivery of NESAT 7, David
> >Brown Books has notified me that
> >
> >"NESAT 7 will be arriving here in early August.  It is already on its way
> >to us in a surface shipment."
> >
> >Beth
>
>
>For those of us scratching our heads... what is NESAT 7??
>
>Kimiko

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] a tiny bit OT, fabric structure question
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Thanks! everyone for defination and the sites and the tips.
I will put it all to good use.

liz young

Betsy Marshal wrote:
> Actually, I had the old way work for me on a yellowed spot on a dishtowel- I
> got it soaking wet- just tap water, wrung it out then hung in the sun to
> dry.. my towel was hung on a concrete pillar of a building, but I'm sure a
> windowsill or shrub would be much more period.
> Hope this helps, worth a try anyway (course you may have to re-iron..darn.)
> Betsy
> -----Original Message-----
> Behalf Of Elizabeth Young
> Subject: [h-cost] a tiny bit OT, fabric structure question
> 
> What is the difference between damask and jacquard?

> Also, any preferred cleaning method to lighten the yellowed areas on 
> some of the pieces? 

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My husband bought me the Historic Enterprises sewing kit for Christmas a few 
years ago.  The box is attractive, but you need a cotter (sp?) pin to keep it 
closed.  I couldn't get the scissors to even cut thread.  They told me at 
Pennsic when I went to exchange them that you "had to hold them a certain way" 
that I never got the hang of.  Fortunately they finally accepted them in 
exchange.  The best thing in the box is the ring thimble.  I have bought several of 
those and keep them in the various places I sew.  Theirs is the most comfortable 
one that I've found.  My brain reads wearing a modern thimble as though 
there's an injury to that finger, so it shouldn't be used.  The ring thimble is the 
first one I've ever managed to use on a regular basis.

Nancy Stengel Ulmer
(Maddalena Salutati)
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On Sat, 9 Jul 2005 MaddNancy@aol.com wrote:

> The best thing in the box is the ring thimble.  I have bought several
> of those and keep them in the various places I sew.  Theirs is the
> most comfortable one that I've found.  My brain reads wearing a modern
> thimble as though there's an injury to that finger, so it shouldn't be
> used.  The ring thimble is the first one I've ever managed to use on a
> regular basis.

I love my ring thimble. Mine was from a company called Westair; there's a
UK phone number on the box if anyone wants. I forget which website I found
it on.

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: veils
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Here's what I do to get veils to stay in place.

I have a little square white cloth which I fold in half to make a sort of
kerchief. On the corners, I sewed white ties. This looks like the kind of
little fashionable scarves or kerchiefs teen girls wear. I suppose you could
use one of those, but they're generally bright and patterned.

I put the folded edge of this kerchief over my forehead. Then I pull the
ties back behind my neck, cross them, and tie them either at the back of my
neck (if the veil is sheer) or on the top of my head (if I'm wearing a hat
that needs anchoring). The kerchief is just big enough that the back point
comes to the nape of my neck, and that gets tucked into the cords/ties. I
hope that makes sense.

I got this idea from the Elizabethan forehead cloth. It works for me because
I have very short hair and it keeps the bangs hidden, it is a nice anchor
for a coronet or circlet, and it is something for the veil pins to stick to.
And also, it's a lot easier to make than a cap.

Gail Finke

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> > The best thing in the box is the ring thimble.  I have bought several
> > of those and keep them in the various places I sew.
>
>I love my ring thimble. Mine was from a company called Westair; there's a
>UK phone number on the box if anyone wants. I forget which website I found
>it on.

I buy mine at a Japanese store that carries needlework supplies for things 
like Bunka.  Ring thimbles are for people with fingernails, or who 
otherwise can't feel the fabric thru a regular thimble.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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From: Gytha Stonegrinder <gythaofnorthumbria@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: veils
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I take about a yard of a fine white cotton cloth, about a foot wide.  I fold it on the diagonal, place the middle about half way down my forehead, twist the two ends and then wrap them around the back of my head (at the nape of the neck) and around to the front and tuck them in. The fabric on top of the head tucks into the twisted wrap in the back so that the whole head is covered. This creates a bulkier headwrap than others have described, but not out of period as I've seen similar things in paintings.   Another way is to take the two twisted ends, cross them in the back, twist them more and make a figure eight at the nape of my neck and tuck in the eges.  This creates a smooth front and top, while the knot in the back is hidden by the veil. Veils and wimples pin to it very easily.  I have short, very fine and slippery hair and this works very well.  I actually wear this heapwrap by itself quite a bit, unless I'm being formal....  Gytha

Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net> wrote: 
Here's what I do to get veils to stay in place.

I have a little square white cloth which I fold in half to make a sort of
kerchief. On the corners, I sewed white ties. This looks like the kind of
little fashionable scarves or kerchiefs teen girls wear. I suppose you could
use one of those, but they're generally bright and patterned.

I put the folded edge of this kerchief over my forehead. Then I pull the
ties back behind my neck, cross them, and tie them either at the back of my
neck (if the veil is sheer) or on the top of my head (if I'm wearing a hat
that needs anchoring). The kerchief is just big enough that the back point
comes to the nape of my neck, and that gets tucked into the cords/ties. I
hope that makes sense.

I got this idea from the Elizabethan forehead cloth. It works for me because
I have very short hair and it keeps the bangs hidden, it is a nice anchor
for a coronet or circlet, and it is something for the veil pins to stick to.
And also, it's a lot easier to make than a cap.

Gail Finke

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I'm not sure what she used, but I used a 1/2" woodworking chisel, well 
sharpened..

Melusine


>> Slashing with a 5/8" chisel worked very well--
>
> What did you use? A woodworking chisel, or a pinking chisel, or something 
> made especially for slashing? 

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Thanks for clearing that up Beth!  I was also wondering what Nesat stood
for.  Can someone please tell me whether they are published in English,
German or both?  (Hoping for a good semblance of English but have friend
who can translate German if pushed and shoved a little).

Thanks in advance,
Lynette Hobcroft (ska Tyghra)
Sydney, Australia

> The NESAT series are the published proceedings for the conferences of the 
> Northern European Society for Archaeological Textiles.
> 
> For a list of the first 7:
> http://home.arcor.de/dieter.kadereit/NESAT/
> 
> NESAT 8 is also out. My copy was shipped (from Poland) two months ago and 
> I'm expecting (hoping for) it any day now. Contact me if you would like a 
> copy of the flyer.
> 
> Copies of NESAT 4 and 5 are listed as still available via Oxbow and DBBC. 
> All others are out of print, though a copy of NESAT 2 was listed by ABE
> and ILAB from Kirkegaards Antikvariat (Denmark). This is where I got my copy. 
> I'm still looking for NESAT 1, 3 and 6.
> 
> Beth


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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] folks in London ok??
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I was talking with one of my housemates, who told me that a friend of his had a time line up on his bedroom wall, with ALL of the battles since the beginning of recorded history on it. In 5000 odd years of recorded history, there was about a *total* of about 3 years in which there was not warfare of some sort occurring somewhere.

Unfortunately, it seems that war is inherent in human nature.

I don't remember a time when there hasn't been some sort of strife going on somewhere ( my earliest memories of being aware of war date from about 1973, when I became aware of news reports on TV ).

Joannah.


--- "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com> wrote:

<snip>
I grew up in the 80s, when nothing seemed to be happening worldwide - as if all the great wars and human-caused tragedies were behind us. It's very disquieting for me to see things like this starting to happen again... 
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Subject: [h-cost] new thread - continuing strife in the World - was "folks
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COMMENT
 a whole world "always completely at peace" is a centuries-old dream, to which most of the Human Race has probably subscribed at one time or another. Hence it is very germane to our "living-history" interests as it enables us to more-easily understand the reasons for historical conflicts, and the way in which this shaped the historic civilisations we study.
However, as long as Humanity occasionally produces abberrant "human wolves" who "prey" on the rest of us - ["the Sheep"]; - for racial survival, the Human Race has always needed - and will continue to need - to study and practise the Arts of War, in order to protect "the Sheep".
As long as there is no effective, swift, and supra-National means of dealing with these "human wolves"** before their aberrant actions create major problems for the remainder of Humanity - ** i.e. - [1] Tyrants, Dictators, or outright Criminals who 'hi-jack' their own Nations' political Processes to obtain ultimate political power - which they then pervert for their own twisted- &/ -criminal purposes. Or [2] political/religious extremist fanatics who are prepared to use terrorism to get their hands on the levers of political, social, or religious control over the rest of their populations; - so long shall the Human Race have a need to train in- and to practise the Arts of War to protect the rest of us - who, for whatever reasons - personal inclination, religious, or political reasons - cannot, do not, or are unable to - take up arms in our own defence.
I suspect this situation will continue until political processes world-wdie develop to the point where policiains can be held individually-&-personally, Civilly/Politically/ criminally- responsible, life-long, for their actions while in Office.
It is a sad comment on the United Nations at the moment that of the near-200 Nation-States represented there, - less than 40 have governments that could be described as truly democratic. This is - and I suspect - will remain - a recipe for potential conflict and probable innocent deaths numbered in the 1000's, if not in the millions.
Julian Wilson,
Military & Political Historian,
in "olde" Jersey.

Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net> wrote:
I was talking with one of my housemates, who told me that a friend of his had a time line up on his bedroom wall, with ALL of the battles since the beginning of recorded history on it. In 5000 odd years of recorded history, there was about a *total* of about 3 years in which there was not warfare of some sort occurring somewhere.

Unfortunately, it seems that war is inherent in human nature.

I don't remember a time when there hasn't been some sort of strife going on somewhere ( my earliest memories of being aware of war date from about 1973, when I became aware of news reports on TV ).


		
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
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A friend is offering me 8m (the 8m is based on her recollection, we haven't
actually measured it) of Rayon velvet as a gift, or otherwise it's going to
charity, it's a nice dark tan colour but I'm a little concerned by how shiny
it is would that change when I washed it? (I have never worked with Rayon
Velvet as you don't see it in the shops here mostly it's poly/acetate deep
pile velvet or cotton velveteen)
So, in short would it be worth my while to take it? or would it be better
off going to charity where somebody else will make something modern from it?
Also if I were to take it what sort of era would suit 8m of Rayon velvet?
I'm primarily interested in Tudor (my first thought was something like
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Mary5.jpg or a loose gown like this
http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Mary09.jpg) but I'm also open to
Elizabethan, 18th or 19th century ideas (there's nothing preventing me from
doing 17th century except that I haven't yet come across a 17th century
fashion that really grabs me and says "wear me!")
thanks
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] rayon velvet any use?
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At 04:04 AM 7/10/2005, you wrote:
>A friend is offering me 8m (the 8m is based on her recollection, we haven't
>actually measured it) of Rayon velvet as a gift, or otherwise it's going to
>charity, it's a nice dark tan colour but I'm a little concerned by how shiny
>it is would that change when I washed it? (I have never worked with Rayon
>Velvet as you don't see it in the shops here mostly it's poly/acetate deep
>pile velvet or cotton velveteen)
>So, in short would it be worth my while to take it? or would it be better
>off going to charity where somebody else will make something modern from it?
>Also if I were to take it what sort of era would suit 8m of Rayon velvet?
>I'm primarily interested in Tudor (my first thought was something like
>http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Mary5.jpg or a loose gown like this
>http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Mary09.jpg) but I'm also open to
>Elizabethan, 18th or 19th century ideas (there's nothing preventing me from
>doing 17th century except that I haven't yet come across a 17th century
>fashion that really grabs me and says "wear me!")
>thanks
>Elizabeth
>--------------------------------------------
>Elizabeth Walpole
>Canberra Australia
>ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
>http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

Given that rayon velvet is generally very difficult to sew (watch it 
slither away from you) and that it does not have the right hand or 
drape for pre-20th century clothing, I'd say "Thank you very much for 
thinking of me, but ..." and send it off to charity.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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A friend is offering me 8m (the 8m is based on her recollection, we haven't
actually measured it) of Rayon velvet as a gift, or otherwise it's going to
charity, it's a nice dark tan colour but I'm a little concerned by how shiny
it is would that change when I washed it? (I have never worked with Rayon
Velvet as you don't see it in the shops here mostly it's poly/acetate deep
pile velvet or cotton velveteen)
So, in short would it be worth my while to take it? or would it be better
off going to charity where somebody else will make something modern from it?
Also if I were to take it what sort of era would suit 8m of Rayon velvet?
I'm primarily interested in Tudor (my first thought was something like
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Mary5.jpg or a loose gown like this
http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Mary09.jpg) but I'm also open to
Elizabethan, 18th or 19th century ideas (there's nothing preventing me from
doing 17th century except that I haven't yet come across a 17th century
fashion that really grabs me and says "wear me!")

I have used rayon velvet for Tudor with no problems - you just need to pin
it and pin it and pin it. 

Why do you want to wash it? I never, ever wash velvet, (of any kind) and
the suppliers here in England are horrifeid at the thought. I don't see the
point of buying a fabric for its look and feel, then washing it to change
that.

Suzi in London

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At 04:04 AM 7/10/2005, you wrote:
>A friend is offering me 8m (the 8m is based on her recollection, we haven't
>actually measured it) of Rayon velvet as a gift, or otherwise it's going to
>charity, it's a nice dark tan colour but I'm a little concerned by how
shiny
>it is would that change when I washed it? (I have never worked with Rayon
>Velvet as you don't see it in the shops here mostly it's poly/acetate deep
>pile velvet or cotton velveteen)
>So, in short would it be worth my while to take it? or would it be better
>off going to charity where somebody else will make something modern from
it?
>Also if I were to take it what sort of era would suit 8m of Rayon velvet?
>I'm primarily interested in Tudor (my first thought was something like
>http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Mary5.jpg or a loose gown like this
>http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Mary09.jpg) but I'm also open to
>Elizabethan, 18th or 19th century ideas (there's nothing preventing me from
>doing 17th century except that I haven't yet come across a 17th century
>fashion that really grabs me and says "wear me!")
>thanks
>Elizabeth

Given that rayon velvet is generally very difficult to sew (watch it 
slither away from you) and that it does not have the right hand or 
drape for pre-20th century clothing, I'd say "Thank you very much for 
thinking of me, but ..." and send it off to charity.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

Why do you say that? I find it works perfectly well for any period,
providing you use the right patterns. I prefer cotton velvet - there is no
cotton velveteen anywhere in England that I can find - but if my customers
are not well off, rayon velvet sometimes has to do. You can see several
examples of it in wear on my web site - The Henry Vlll and Anne Boleyn
figures are both wearing rayon velvet, as are the "Ramirez" characters -
both I seem to remember.


Suzi (www.suziclarke.co.uk)

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From: purplkat@optonline.net
Subject: NESAT Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 444
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I haven't looked any any but - as far as I remember the different articles are written in the language of the writer's home country.

So a particular NESAT might have articles written in:
English, German, Swedish, Danish, French, German, Polish, etc
With no translation of any particular article for the non-native speaker.

Katheryne
who is still trying to get up the money for NESAT 5 - and then find the time to translate it.....

----- Original Message -----
From: Tyghra na Tintagel <tyghra_@fastmail.fm>
> Can someone please tell me whether they are published 
> in English, German or both?  (Hoping for a good semblance of English but
> have friend who can translate German if pushed and shoved a little).
> Lynette Hobcroft (ska Tyghra)
> Sydney, Australia

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The language of the papers vary in each NESAT volume. Most papers are in 
English or German, though I can think of one in Spanish.

Beth

At 06:42 AM 7/10/2005, you wrote:
>Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2005 14:03:08 +1000
>From: "Tyghra na Tintagel" <tyghra_@fastmail.fm>
>
>Thanks for clearing that up Beth!  I was also wondering what Nesat stood
>for.  Can someone please tell me whether they are published in English,
>German or both?  (Hoping for a good semblance of English but have friend
>who can translate German if pushed and shoved a little).
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Lynette Hobcroft (ska Tyghra)
>Sydney, Australia

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> A friend is offering me 8m (the 8m is based on her recollection, we
haven't
> actually measured it) of Rayon velvet as a gift, or otherwise it's going
to
> charity, it's a nice dark tan colour but I'm a little concerned by how
shiny
> it is would that change when I washed it? (I have never worked with Rayon
> Velvet as you don't see it in the shops here mostly it's poly/acetate deep
> pile velvet or cotton velveteen)

It shouldn't change too much. Is this the chiffon velvet often labeled as
silk velvet, but actually has a rayon pile? Or does it have a heavier base?

> So, in short would it be worth my while to take it? or would it be better
> off going to charity where somebody else will make something modern from
it?

Take it! Velvet through the ages as far as I can tell varies as much as it
varies now. From close photos of several items I know I've spotted different
pile depths, thicknesses of the pile and sheen. And there are some very
glossy velvets out there. Especially of the 19thC. Some really OTT velvet
travelling suits made of the shiniest velvet seen;) Also very shiny plush.

There was a travelling outfit on ebay not long ago... but I'm not sure if it
is still up.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=48864&item=8303219926&rd=1
That's one still up anyway.

http://www.rubylane.com/ni/shops/terry2/iteml/5821#pic1
This is one in particular I was thinking about.

True the flash probably affected the aparent sheen, but compared to man made
fibre shine in flash it's not too far off. Except in many poly velvets you
wind up seeing the ground through the pile.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=48864&item=8315843543&rd=1
Maybe someone has a different date on it, but that is some very glossy
plush. (first photo sans flash)

If it is chiffon velvet, just flat line it with some cotton to stabilise it
for a heavier feel. I did that with my velveteen for my Elizabeth de Valois
gown, and it makes a huge difference. In this way I'd think the Victoriam is
going to be the better way though as there was at least one very large piece
of velveteen in my Valois skirt which I think wouldn't work with the chiffon
velvet. With the Victorian you have the option of puffing and otherwise
catching the two layers of fabric together. But I also think one could do a
row of hand tacking stitched to keep the two frabrics together. I did that
with the wool interlining of my dress based on Mary of Hungary's gown.

michaela de bruce
http://costumes.glittersweet.com



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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: NESAT
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On Sun, 10 Jul 2005, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:

> The language of the papers vary in each NESAT volume. Most papers are in 
> English or German, though I can think of one in Spanish.

I don't have the book myself, but I have a bibliographical listing on hand
that says there are 24 papers in NESAT 7, five of them in German and the
rest in English.

You can usually get a good sense of the languages by looking at
the table of contents in a volume. Someone posted a listing earlier, but
this one might be easier:

http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/nesatlist.html

It covers NESATs 1-6.

--Robin

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"Carmen Beaudry" <moreplentyn@earthlink.net>
writes:
>
> I'm not sure what she used, but I used a 1/2" woodworking chisel, well
> sharpened..

What _he_ used, actually:-)

-- 
Robert Uhl <http://public.xdi.org/=ruhl>
  Phnglui mgwlnafth Cthulhu rlyey wghnagl fthagn.
  In his flat in Bromley, drunk Cthulhu waits knitting?  I think a few
subtle typos may have crept into that one.
  That explains why this shoggoth I summoned is only 3mm tall.
                           --Peter da Silva and Peter Gutmann

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] rayon velvet any use?
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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> A friend is offering me 8m (the 8m is based on her recollection, we
> haven't
> actually measured it) of Rayon velvet as a gift, or otherwise it's going
> to
> charity, it's a nice dark tan colour but I'm a little concerned by how
> shiny
> it is would that change when I washed it?

I had some rayon velvet one time that I used to wrap gifts to give to
people at costume events.  Instead of wrapping paper, I used velvet.  Add
some ribbon and you have a beautiful gift on the inside AND outside ;~>

Or you could make wall hangings or curtains out of it....

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Subject: [h-cost] does anyone have these books?
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PANTS: A History Afoot
By Laurence Benaim

HOW THE WEST WAS WORN
By H. George-Warren & M. Freedman


Has anyone here seen, read, or bought either of these books? I'm looking 
for comments or reviews before I mail-order.



Dawn

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On Saturday 09 July 2005 10:03 am, you wrote:
> The NESAT series are the published proceedings for the conferences of the
> Northern European Society for Archaeological Textiles.
>
> For a list of the first 7:
> http://home.arcor.de/dieter.kadereit/NESAT/
>
> NESAT 8 is also out. My copy was shipped (from Poland) two months ago and
> I'm expecting (hoping for) it any day now. Contact me if you would like a
> copy of the flyer.

Two months!  Well, I won't get mine for a few weeks, then--mine was shipped 
only about 6 weeks ago.  Thanks for the information.

>
> Copies of NESAT 4 and 5 are listed as still available via Oxbow and DBBC.

bn.com also claims to have a used copy of NESAT 4 for $89.91, more than 
Oxbow/DBBC's price.

> All others are out of print, though a copy of NESAT 2 was listed by ABE and
> ILAB from Kirkegaards Antikvariat (Denmark). This is where I got my copy.

Those listings are still up.  

> I'm still looking for NESAT 1, 3 and 6.

NESAT 3 shows up in used book listings every once in a great while.  I last 
saw a copy a year or so ago.  Still wish I could have afforded it then.  I 
bought NESAT 6 when it first came out, but you're right that it doesn't seem 
to be available any longer even through used book channels.

I have never seen NESAT 1 advertised for sale anywhere and I've been looking 
for the NESATs for over 5 years now.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by
entropy.  I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going
to brush its teeth.  So there."-- Rob Landley 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] rayon velvet any use?
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At 04:36 AM 7/10/2005, you wrote:
>Why do you want to wash it? I never, ever wash velvet, (of any kind) and
>the suppliers here in England are horrifeid at the thought. I don't see the
>point of buying a fabric for its look and feel, then washing it to change
>that.
>
>Suzi in London


I wash my cotton velveteens and cotton velvets all the time. Why? To allow 
me to clean it at home, with gentle detergent and rinse, and then hang to 
dry. Otherwise, my costumes would cost a fortune to keep dry cleaned, not 
to mention all the trims I would have to remove first as dry cleaners here 
mangle or melt them.

Not to mention that some of the velvets I have purchased have the nastiest 
hand before wash (all the treatments), and soften up nicely after wash.

Then again, I don't buy rayon velvets as our groups locally consider them 
too shiny for "ren faire use" (we do Henry VIII to Elizabethan). But for 
other costuming things, I wouldn't mind... but I'd rather get the 
silk/rayon just cause it drapes better. And yes, I would gently pre-wash 
those as well.

Kimiko
in Fresno, CA, USA.



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At 04:04 AM 7/10/2005, you wrote:
>So, in short would it be worth my while to take it? or would it be better
>off going to charity where somebody else will make something modern from it?


A few questions to help you decide:
Are you involved in a group activity where the group is fine with rayon 
velvet use in the costumes?
If not involved, are you ok with using rayon velvet for one project or several?
Are you willing to do a lot of hand basting (better than lots of pins) in 
order to control the "velvet creep" while machine sewing?
Do you have a garment in mind when you look at the fabric, that does scream 
"make me!!!"?
Do you have space for the 8m of fabric?

If your answers are yes to any or most of the above, then by all means, 
accept the gift. If no is the common answer, then decline, and let the 
person give to charity.

Personally, I would accept it, and if after a year I hadn't found a 
suitable use, then I would give to a charity, perhaps in the name of the 
original donor. But the decision is yours. Have fun if you do!

Kimiko


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Subject: [h-cost] Bologna, Italy
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I'll be in Bologna, Italy, the afternoon of July 29th.  Any "must sees", 
especially textile-related?

TIA,
--Charlene

-- 
America is addicted to wars of distraction.  -- Barbara Ehrenreich
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Status: RO

 
 
Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> audreybmorin2@hotmail.com 08/07/2005 22:06 >>>wrote
> I grew up in the 80s, when nothing seemed to be happening >worldwide - as if all the great wars and human-caused >tragedies were behind us.
 
Oh yes it was; here in Britain we were having to be wary of suspect packages because of the risk of IRA bombs.

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Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2005 04:07:48 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com>
Subject: pinking & chisels was Re: ????  Re: [h-cost] h-costume added to Gmane
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At 04:20 PM 7/8/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>>Slashing with a 5/8" chisel worked very well--
>
>What did you use? A woodworking chisel, or a pinking chisel, or something 
>made especially for slashing?

I use both a pinking chisel like these:
http://www.greenmanforge.com/

Or a buttonhole chisel like this one:
http://www.bernina.co.uk/shop/General.htm
or
http://sewing-machine-parts-store.com/ButtonCut.asp

Cheers,
Danielle

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Slashing [was: h-costume added to Gmane]
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"Audrey Bergeron-Morin"
<audreybmorin2@hotmail.com> writes:
>
> > Slashing with a 5/8" chisel worked very well--
> 
> What did you use? A woodworking chisel, or a pinking chisel, or
> something made especially for slashing?

I ended up buying a woodworking chisel & rubber mallet from Lowe's.  The
only pinking tools I could find were from Green Man Forge, and the guy
who makes them didn't reply to my email until after I'd already gotten
my tools.

As it turns out, the chisel & mallet work very well: the chisel is
shaped to be comfortable in the hand, and the length means that I can
set a piece of scrap wood in my lap and cut the design into the fabric
bit-by-bit.  Only thing to be careful of is hitting too hard and
splitting the wood, sending a sharp chisel shooting into one's thigh.
This is pretty easy to prevent.

I forget if I mentioned this or not, but getting a long slash by putting
one right after the other works, although it does tend to have a little
jag where they meet--once the slash is properly fulled (by washing &
tumble drying), this shouldn't be a problem.  But if using a fabric
which cannot be washed, this might be an issue.

-- 
Robert Uhl <http://public.xdi.org/=ruhl>
Homines est!  Dici omnes!  Soylens viridis HOMINES EST!

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul 11 08:43:32 2005
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] rayon velvet any use?
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In a message dated 7/10/2005 7:43:15 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
suziclarkeuk-mail@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

I prefer  cotton velvet - there is no
cotton velveteen anywhere in England that I can  find - but if my customers
are not well off, rayon velvet sometimes has to  do.


Granted I don't do Tudor period, but here is my opinion on velvet.  I  think 
rayon velvet actually simulates silk velvet better than cotton does  because 
rayon is a filament fiber and cotton is staple--silk is also a filament  fiber. 
 It is true, though, that many cotton velvets have a good heavy  weight and 
rayon velvet can be pretty thin and slippery.  And it can be  difficult to sew, 
but this can be overcome with patience.  If it were  offered to me, I would 
probably take it.
 
Ann Wass 
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul 11 08:44:04 2005
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] new book
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Hi,

I got two books from Sweden some time ago. One is a book about Sophia 
Magdalenas weddingdress, wich is a french court dress with a huge pannier. 
It is in Swedish, dont know if they have translated it. Livrustkammaren is 
the museum in the world that has 4 complete french court dresses, and i knew 
the 3 of them, but this book shows also the 4th. wich is a weddingdress used 
for Gustav III's younger brother's bride.
Then i wondered if any of you 17th century folks know how rich and 
wonderfull the book Fashion Lions is? It is packed with costumes from the 
northern part of Europe, included some of the danish costumes. Never have i 
seen a finer scandinavian book, it is to be compared to the large book i 
also have from Colonial Williamsburg, dont remember the name pressent, 
sorry.
We have a heat wawe in Denmark right now, wich makes me gloomy because my 
fingers gets oily all the time, and i cant touch the embroidery on the 
chenille dress, but i have started a small factory of ladies purses, intends 
to sell them on ebay. They are quick to make, i can make one each day- well 
the embroidery that is..................
Glad that our english members are safe and well, but i hope that the terror 
is gone again. I am so frightened because we are expecting actions here 
soon, and i go by the tube tomorrow to work. Luckily the police has taken 
patrols on the stations all the time.......................

Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] rayon velvet any use?
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At 04:36 AM 7/10/2005, you wrote:
>Why do you want to wash it? I never, ever wash velvet, (of any kind) and
>the suppliers here in England are horrifeid at the thought. I don't see the
>point of buying a fabric for its look and feel, then washing it to change
>that.
>
>Suzi in London


I wash my cotton velveteens and cotton velvets all the time. Why? To allow 
me to clean it at home, with gentle detergent and rinse, and then hang to 
dry. Otherwise, my costumes would cost a fortune to keep dry cleaned, not 
to mention all the trims I would have to remove first as dry cleaners here 
mangle or melt them.

If I am using velvet it is  for an elaborate gown, covered with trims, and
totally unsuitable for washing. I have customers from 20 years ago who have
only had their costumes dry cleaned, and they are in excellent condition,
no melting or mangling. Obviously it takes all sorts.

Not to mention that some of the velvets I have purchased have the nastiest 
hand before wash (all the treatments), and soften up nicely after wash.

I have never had to buy velvets that I didn't like the hand of - I don't
give customers those to sample!! And the rayons here are not really shiny
at all. However, the so-called silk velvets are really nasty looking, and
expensive, but usually look cheap!! I won't touch them at all. Isn't it
fascinating how different our experiences qwith fabrics are?

Suzi in London

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What name do you use to sell on ebay?  I'd love to watch for your purses -
perhaps something I can actually afford done by Bjarne!!!!!
Eagerly waiting to shop,
-Megan

Bjarne Drews wrote:
<snip>
 i have started a small factory of ladies purses, intends 
to sell them on ebay. They are quick to make, i can make one each day- well 
the embroidery that is..................
<snip>


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From: "Marc Carlson" <marccarlson20@hotmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Items of possible interest 
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Status: RO

That's a nice looking awl handle.   Do you know if they sell any of those 
things individually?

Marc
(always looking to improve my collection of medieval shoemaking tools)


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