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Subject: [h-cost] Need to find a costume pic
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Hi All!

I am looking for a color picture: "Cosimo de Medici at the age of 12" (Duke
Cosimo I de Medici) It is by Ridolfo GHIRLANDAIO,  and it is in the Palazzo
Medici-Riccardi in Florence. Has anyone ever seen this on the web? If so,
couild you please send me the link? Thanks!
Dame Catriona MacDuff


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Oct  1 20:31:39 2005
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Subject: [h-cost] wool felt source?
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Anyone have a source (pref US, but I'm not picky) for 100% wool felt 
(for making hats)?
I am not looking for 'hoods' but for flat pieces. I am in the midst of 
making a hat from a vintage vogue pattern (which is set up for flat 
goods) and am fighting with cheap-looking 20% wool felt.

liz young

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From: "Helen  Pinto" <hpinto@mindspring.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wool felt source?
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Try Weir Dolls:

http://www.weirdolls.com/fabrics/100felt.html

They have a medium weight 100% wool felt in over 40 colors by the yard or in 
pieces.

Hope this helps; good luck with your project.

         -Helen/Aidan 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Oct  1 23:37:59 2005
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Organization: Medieval Hats: http://www.virtue.to
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Subject: [h-cost] Tea dye diagnosis and reversal
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Hi Folks,

I've got something probably from the 1920s, partly wool, which might 
have been tea-dyed at some point; the colors are very muted.  I've tried 
  rubbing it with a damp white cloth, but no color came off.

Do you know of any other way to tell if something has been tea-dyed?  It 
should stand up to a proper washing, but I don't want to go through the 
hour or two of work it would entail to get this off its ground fabric 
just to find out after washing, that the color it is was the intended color!

I did a Google search but didn't find anything to address this question.

Thanks for the bandwidth,
cv

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"Then to the King's Theatre, where we saw "Midsummer's Night's Dream," 
which I had never seen before, nor shall ever again, for it is the most 
insipid ridiculous play that ever I saw in my life." -- Samuel Pepys, 1662
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Oct  1 23:45:58 2005
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "AIPON" <AmIPeriodorNot@yahoogroups.com>,
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Subject: [h-cost] Am I Period Or Not,
	Share your costumes with the world (cross post)
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Hi everyone,
Some people may remember my last message on this topic a few months ago,
well I'm appealing for more costumes, if you have a photo of a costume you
have made, from any period of history, please consider submitting it to Am I
Period Or Not (aka AIPON) http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/. So far it
appears the 16th century costumers are achieving our secret aim of taking
over the world ;-). But there are so many other pretty styles out there and
it would be fabulous if we could see what costumers have been doing in all
eras (even ones that never really existed like Lord of the Rings)
Please pass this on to anybody you think would be interested, after all it's
much quicker and simpler to email a photo to us (see
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/photos.htm for submission rules) than
setting up your own webpage (even if you do have your own webpage you can
always put photos of your work on AIPON and include a link to your webpage
for more info).
I hope to see a flood of new and interesting photos in response to this
email.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wool felt source?
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I know some of the millinery supply places on-line stock stuff like 
that.  For example, http://www.hatsupply.com/flat_fur_felt.htm 
carries flat fur felt for some of the vogue vintage patterns.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 07:30 PM 10/1/2005, you wrote:
>Anyone have a source (pref US, but I'm not picky) for 100% wool felt 
>(for making hats)?
>I am not looking for 'hoods' but for flat pieces. I am in the midst 
>of making a hat from a vintage vogue pattern (which is set up for 
>flat goods) and am fighting with cheap-looking 20% wool felt.
>
>liz young

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From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tambour embroidery
Date: Sun, 02 Oct 2005 17:31:05 +0000
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>Tambour:
>You have for a background cloth a loose weave or netted material that is
>pulled taught. Your crochet hook should be small enough that it inserts and
>returns with thread without much difficulty.
>Either side of the chainstitch w/out beads can be used.

Ah, okay, that makes sense. My needlework encyclopedia uses the looped side. 
It doesn't show how to do tambour beading, but it shows how to fill spaces 
with tambour stitches, and they use the looped side as the right side. I 
think that's how it was done in the Empire period. Or maybe they did both? I 
have to go back and re-examine closeups I have of Empire era works, see 
which is the right side...


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tambour embroidery
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At 18:31 02/10/2005, you wrote:
>>Tambour:
>>You have for a background cloth a loose weave or netted material that is
>>pulled taught. Your crochet hook should be small enough that it inserts and
>>returns with thread without much difficulty.
>>Either side of the chainstitch w/out beads can be used.
>
>Ah, okay, that makes sense. My needlework encyclopedia uses the 
>looped side. It doesn't show how to do tambour beading, but it shows 
>how to fill spaces with tambour stitches, and they use the looped 
>side as the right side. I think that's how it was done in the Empire 
>period. Or maybe they did both? I have to go back and re-examine 
>closeups I have of Empire era works, see which is the right side...


I have part of a waistcoat, which I believe is French, which is 
tambour embroidered, with the "chain stitch" side on the top side of 
the fabric. You can see it in close-up as the background to my fotopic site.
http://suziclarke4384.fotopic.net/

Suzi


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Could this be it?

http://www.hermitagemuseum.org/html_En/05/hm88_5_0_46_2.html

De

-----Original Message-----
Hi All!

I am looking for a color picture: "Cosimo de Medici at the age of 12" (Duke
Cosimo I de Medici) It is by Ridolfo GHIRLANDAIO,  and it is in the Palazzo
Medici-Riccardi in Florence. Has anyone ever seen this on the web? If so,
couild you please send me the link? Thanks!
Dame Catriona MacDuff


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Subject: [h-cost] Cotton Fabrics and substitutes for Edwardian underthings.
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Hi,
I have a book from the very 1900s which is for cutting out of underthings. 
I"m planning on starting making some of them and having a little trouble 
figuring out modern substitutes for fabric mentioned. I haven't made 
anything from this time frame (or the preceeding century), a fact which I 
don't think is helping.

Calico and longcloth are mentioned quite a bit, I'm assuming the calico 
here is nothing like the calico I can buy in Australia (or more accurately 
the stuff you get in most fabric stores here, the calico I have in kits 
from the UK seems to be of a far better quality). What would I be looking 
for in terms of  weave etc - although I'm not sure that this would help at 
the moment as the book describes the individual fabrics reasonable well in 
these terms but I can't seem to translate it to reality.  Names of 
substitutes would possibly be better

Cambric is also mentioned, and I'm wondering if anybody could, again, 
suggest substitutes please. Is it anything like a decent cotton lawn (like 
what liberty and liberty-like prints use)?

If it is of any help I'm looking at making things like combinations, 
camisoles, petticoat bodices, american drawers and the like with a 
reasonable amount of handsewing (using the machine only for the long seams).

Thank you,
Sharon

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Subject: [h-cost] Need to find a costume pic take 2
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Now *I* need to find a pic.

All I can remember is that is is of a "Hunt", everyone is in white, and some of the ladies are wearing houplenades (sp?).

I know can I be - more - vague.

I am especially looking for either a high-rez version that I can cut certain dresses out of the pic, or many high-rez details.

Thanks
Katheryne
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need to find a costume pic take 2
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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> Now *I* need to find a pic.
>
> All I can remember is that is is of a "Hunt", everyone is in white, and
> some of the ladies are wearing houplenades (sp?).

Well, I found the name for you but after a little searching, I found very
little on line.  I found it in the book "20,000 years of fashion" by
Francois Boucher and it is called "Hunting with falcons at the court of
Philip the Good".  The artist is just listed as "french school" and it is
supposed to be housed at Versailles.

> I know can I be - more - vague.
>
> I am especially looking for either a high-rez version that I can cut
> certain dresses out of the pic, or many high-rez details.

It may be easier to find if you can find the painting name in french and
search for that.  But if you don't have much luck, contact me off-list and
I am willing to scan it and send it to you privately....

HTH,

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cotton Fabrics and substitutes for Edwardian underthings.
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What is the book  you are using?

You want a closely woven, fine-textured cotton or linen.  Weight was 
usually light but varied from well, light but durable and pretty firmly 
woven, to rather sheer batiste type weight.  Machine eyelet border-type 
fabric was popular as the main fabric for small garments like camisoles, 
and for flounces on things like drawers and petticoats.  Color, usually 
white. Most originals are yellowish off-white by this time unless they 
were subjected to modern bleaching.  Thin plain-woven silks were also 
used. These could be pink (pastel rather than bright), light pale 
yellow, cream colored, and that's mostly what I've seen in surviving 
garments from this period.  Valenciennes type lace was very popular for 
trimming.  Homemade crochet was quite popular for trimming the more 
firmly woven undergarments. Tatting was used to some extent with the 
same type of fabrics crochet was used with.

There is certainly a larger number of "authentic" options than this, but 
anyway you've got the idea.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books of Victorian and Edwardian Patterns
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Sharon Nevin wrote:

> Hi,
> I have a book from the very 1900s which is for cutting out of 
> underthings. I"m planning on starting making some of them and having a 
> little trouble figuring out modern substitutes for fabric mentioned.

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Date: Sun, 02 Oct 2005 21:44:56 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wool felt source?
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>Anyone have a source (pref US, but I'm not picky) for 100% wool felt (for 
>making hats)?
>I am not looking for 'hoods' but for flat pieces. I am in the midst of 
>making a hat from a vintage vogue pattern (which is set up for flat goods) 
>and am fighting with cheap-looking 20% wool felt.

Many quilt stores will have 100% wool felt, but I don't know if it's the 
right weight.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cotton Fabrics and substitutes for Edwardian underthings.
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At 02:03 03/10/2005, you wrote:
>Hi,
>I have a book from the very 1900s which is for cutting out of 
>underthings. I"m planning on starting making some of them and having 
>a little trouble figuring out modern substitutes for fabric 
>mentioned. I haven't made anything from this time frame (or the 
>preceeding century), a fact which I don't think is helping.
>
>Calico and longcloth are mentioned quite a bit, I'm assuming the 
>calico here is nothing like the calico I can buy in Australia (or 
>more accurately the stuff you get in most fabric stores here, the 
>calico I have in kits from the UK seems to be of a far better 
>quality). What would I be looking for in terms of  weave etc - 
>although I'm not sure that this would help at the moment as the book 
>describes the individual fabrics reasonable well in these terms but 
>I can't seem to translate it to reality.  Names of substitutes would 
>possibly be better
>
>Cambric is also mentioned, and I'm wondering if anybody could, 
>again, suggest substitutes please. Is it anything like a decent 
>cotton lawn (like what liberty and liberty-like prints use)?
>
>If it is of any help I'm looking at making things like combinations, 
>camisoles, petticoat bodices, american drawers and the like with a 
>reasonable amount of handsewing (using the machine only for the long seams).


Long cloth is a firm weave cotton (also know as Horrocks's Long Cloth 
- the name of the manufacturer.). I have a set of combinations in 
long cloth and it is similar to what I buy as cotton poplin, although 
in England that has a slight sheen, and the long cloth doesn't. Most 
of the genuine Victorian/Edwardian underthings I have are made from a 
similar weight material - but only the one has been specifically identified.

English cambric is slightly heavier than Liberty weight lawn, as far 
as I know. However, mostly you cannot buy fabric in England by 
weight, so I cannot be more specific.

Suzi 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Sharon Nevin <sharon.nevin@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cotton Fabrics and substitutes for Edwardian underthings.
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At 02:24 PM 3/10/2005, you wrote:
>What is the book  you are using?

Cutting Out for Student Teachers by Amy K. Smith. 3rd Edition. Printed By 
Sir Isaac Pitman & Sons, London. 1916. I got lucky on Australian ebay and 
found an original copy for au$30.00. The only changes between this edition 
and the 1904 edition is addition of two patterns plus changes to the 
letterpress in terms of clarifying instructions and updating of exams. It's 
basically 256 pages on teaching cutting out of and patterns for 
underclothing (ladies, children, and men's shirts)



>There is certainly a larger number of "authentic" options than this, but 
>anyway you've got the idea.

Thank you for your suggestions

Sharon 

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Status: RO

 
 
Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> joanmj@surewest.net 30/09/2005 20:41 >>> wrote

>But isn't much (or even most) of that look an optical illusion rather 
>than actual physical posture?  Lots of floof in the front and a pad 
>for the buttocks should give that look.
 
Not entirely. I once tried on an original pair of combinations of that period and found that I had to stand in that posture to make them fit.


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>>All I can remember is that is is of a "Hunt", everyone is in white, and
>>some of the ladies are wearing houplenades (sp?).
> 
> 
> Well, I found the name for you but after a little searching, I found very
> little on line.  I found it in the book "20,000 years of fashion" by
> Francois Boucher and it is called "Hunting with falcons at the court of
> Philip the Good".  The artist is just listed as "french school" and it is
> supposed to be housed at Versailles.

I have been told that this is a *copy* of the orginal, which was lost or 
destroyed.  It would certainly explain some of the weird details of the 
clothing.

Other sources call it "the white wedding" although it doesn't seem to be 
a wedding.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"Then to the King's Theatre, where we saw "Midsummer's Night's Dream," 
which I had never seen before, nor shall ever again, for it is the most 
insipid ridiculous play that ever I saw in my life." -- Samuel Pepys, 1662
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Sharon Nevin <sharon.nevin@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cotton Fabrics and substitutes for Edwardian underthings.
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>
>English cambric is slightly heavier than Liberty weight lawn, as far as I 
>know. However, mostly you cannot buy fabric in England by weight, so I 
>cannot be more specific.
I've only seen fabric sold by weight from american suppliers, but cotton 
poplin (in a range of qualities) is easily available here (Australia) so 
that's extremely helpful.
Thanks
Sharon 

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hi.
First thanks for all your good wishes for my quick recovery.
Apropos very fine linen, my embroidery shop has taken home some very fine 
linen. It is so fine that it is sheer, and the slopes are only very little.
 i remember back that some people needed sources for fine linen to a Chemise 
a la Reine. This would be very usefull for it. Dont think i have seen this 
before and just wanted to share that it is available on the market today.
About tambour work. Costme in detail has closeups of embroidered gentlemans 
waistcoat made in tambourwork and worked with a variegated thread. Looks 
very nice.
I got tambour hooks at lacis.com but must admit that the hook are two fine 
for me, much quicker for me to work chainstitches....................
At Nordiska Museet in Stockholm i found a beautifull embroidered womans 
purse with Silk Ribbon Embroidery dated from 1745. Roses made in ribbon, 
leaves two with straigt stitches. stemstitches for  the lines.
They even had leftovers of silk ribbons wined on cardboard, looks excactly 
the same as today.
Got an x-ray of my break, looks good, plaster off oktober 20th. Has started 
to embroider again, only slow, and dyed silk threads today...............

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Need to find a costume pic
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No. The picture that I am seeking is in the Palazzo Medici-Riccardi in
Florence. I have see the one in the Hermitage, but thanks for givinig it to
me!!!
Dame Catriona MacDuff

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 6:42 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Need to find a costume pic


Could this be it?

http://www.hermitagemuseum.org/html_En/05/hm88_5_0_46_2.html

De

-----Original Message-----
Hi All!

I am looking for a color picture: "Cosimo de Medici at the age of 12" (Duke
Cosimo I de Medici) It is by Ridolfo GHIRLANDAIO,  and it is in the Palazzo
Medici-Riccardi in Florence. Has anyone ever seen this on the web? If so,
couild you please send me the link? Thanks!
Dame Catriona MacDuff


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gustavian harvest feast-a question about a costume
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Bjarne, first, I am sorry to hear of your broken wrist!  Lovely 
pictures...are you in any of them?  I thought it might be you in the 
yellow silk suit-but it is a little hard to tell with all the makeup? 
I have a question about the brown and violet shot silk dress in the 
first picture.  Why are the sides so long?  Were they intended to drag 
to the side or was the dress originally meant to be worn with larger 
panniers?

Sg


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Oct  3 10:07:53 2005
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gustavian harvest feast-a question about a costume
Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2005 16:07:28 +0200
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YOU WICKED FRAU _:-)

How nice to hear from you!
I cant answer you in this question, lady told me, she did not make it 
herself.
But one thing i can tell you.
The gentleman with the very beautifull embroidered suit in burgundy red had 
his mistress made it for him from fabrics of Hyena!!!!
Machine embroidered fabrics can be very treathcherous
:-(
But beautifull..............

B jarne




- Original Message ----- 
From: "WickedFrau" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 3:54 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gustavian harvest feast-a question about a costume


> Bjarne, first, I am sorry to hear of your broken wrist!  Lovely 
> pictures...are you in any of them?  I thought it might be you in the 
> yellow silk suit-but it is a little hard to tell with all the makeup? I 
> have a question about the brown and violet shot silk dress in the first 
> picture.  Why are the sides so long?  Were they intended to drag to the 
> side or was the dress originally meant to be worn with larger panniers?
>
> Sg
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Need to find a costume pic
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At 14:49 03/10/2005, you wrote:
>No. The picture that I am seeking is in the Palazzo Medici-Riccardi in
>Florence. I have see the one in the Hermitage, but thanks for givinig it to
>me!!!
>Dame Catriona MacDuff


I have a photo of a painting at the Ashmolean Museum of Cosimo, I 
think, but it is another Bronzino. I could send it you privately if you like.

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cotton Fabrics and substitutes for Edwardian underthings.
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Yes, that's a classic of the period. I have a couple editions of it.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Sharon Nevin wrote:

> At 02:24 PM 3/10/2005, you wrote:
>
>> What is the book  you are using?
>
>
> Cutting Out for Student Teachers by Amy K. Smith. 3rd Edition. Printed 
> By Sir Isaac Pitman & Sons, London. 1916. I got lucky on Australian 
> ebay and found an original copy for au$30.00. The only changes between 
> this edition and the 1904 edition is addition of two patterns plus 
> changes to the letterpress in terms of clarifying instructions and 
> updating of exams. It's basically 256 pages on teaching cutting out of 
> and patterns for underclothing (ladies, children, and men's shirts)
>
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Date: Mon, 03 Oct 2005 11:12:59 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Need to find a costume pic
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That would be great! Thanks!
Catriona

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 10:09 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Need to find a costume pic


At 14:49 03/10/2005, you wrote:
>No. The picture that I am seeking is in the Palazzo Medici-Riccardi in
>Florence. I have see the one in the Hermitage, but thanks for givinig it to
>me!!!
>Dame Catriona MacDuff


I have a photo of a painting at the Ashmolean Museum of Cosimo, I
think, but it is another Bronzino. I could send it you privately if you
like.

Suzi


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Subject: [h-cost] Question: Ageless Patterns 1891 corset for elerly woman
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Hello all.
I havn't posted to this board in a very long time, but I am seriously 
hoping someone has some insight they could share.

http://www.agelesspatterns.com/images/1062.GIF

I'm working on the 1891 straight-front corset, which is supposed to come 
out to 35" bust, and 24" waist, with the typical 5/8" seam allowance 
drawn into each piece.  It's supposedly an original from Harper's 
Bazaar, not sized up. (It appears the maker has re-drawn this pattern to 
make it multi sized since I purchased it, but this one is "the original").

However, once putting it together in a muslin, it comes out more like 
42" bust, and 30" waist, with typical lengths to front, back and side.  
Not to mention that with the slope of the breast area, I would need at 
*least* a D-cup to even start filling it out.

Does anyone know whether this pattern maker has mis-quoted the seam 
allowances vastly or done something else wacky I've not considered 
yet??  I'm confused -- the narrower pieces don't look like they could be 
taken in any more, or they would be less than 1/4" wide, finished!
If nobody has any idea about my issue with the older version of the 
pattern, perhaps someone would know about the current one?  Perhaps even 
quirks and tricks about this maker's corset patterns in general?  Any 
ideas would be greatly appreciated!

Confuzzled,
K
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question: Ageless Patterns 1891 corset for elderly woman
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At 04:35 PM 10/3/2005, you wrote:
>Hello all.
>I havn't posted to this board in a very long time, but I am 
>seriously hoping someone has some insight they could share.
>
>http://www.agelesspatterns.com/images/1062.GIF
>
>I'm working on the 1891 straight-front corset, which is supposed to 
>come out to 35" bust, and 24" waist, with the typical 5/8" seam 
>allowance drawn into each piece.  It's supposedly an original from 
>Harper's Bazaar, not sized up. (It appears the maker has re-drawn 
>this pattern to make it multi sized since I purchased it, but this 
>one is "the original").
>
>However, once putting it together in a muslin, it comes out more 
>like 42" bust, and 30" waist, with typical lengths to front, back and side.
>Not to mention that with the slope of the breast area, I would need 
>at *least* a D-cup to even start filling it out.
>
>Does anyone know whether this pattern maker has mis-quoted the seam 
>allowances vastly or done something else wacky I've not considered 
>yet??  I'm confused -- the narrower pieces don't look like they 
>could be taken in any more, or they would be less than 1/4" wide, finished!
>If nobody has any idea about my issue with the older version of the 
>pattern, perhaps someone would know about the current one?  Perhaps 
>even quirks and tricks about this maker's corset patterns in 
>general?  Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
>
>Confuzzled,
>K

Have you put in the boning yet?  The boning will take it in quite a bit.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Are her panniers hanging to low?
They look droopy.

WickedFrau wrote:

> Bjarne, first, I am sorry to hear of your broken wrist!  Lovely 
> pictures...are you in any of them?  I thought it might be you in the 
> yellow silk suit-but it is a little hard to tell with all the makeup? 
> I have a question about the brown and violet shot silk dress in the 
> first picture.  Why are the sides so long?  Were they intended to drag 
> to the side or was the dress originally meant to be worn with larger 
> panniers?
>
> Sg
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Anyone else out there?  I'm not getting any mail from the list.

Sg
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Date: Tue, 04 Oct 2005 15:11:31 -0700
From: WickedFrau <wickedfrau@msn.com>
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Is anyone else getting mail???

Sg
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Oct  4 18:14:50 2005
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Date: Wed, 05 Oct 2005 11:14:24 +1300
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Testing
In-reply-to: <BAY0-SMTP089E47D054E82E631B53FFA9830@phx.gbl>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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WickedFrau wrote:

> Anyone else out there?  I'm not getting any mail from the list.
>


I got this.  The last email I had before this one was ~14 hours ago.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Oct  4 19:04:51 2005
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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Testing
Date: Tue, 04 Oct 2005 23:03:33 +0000
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X-Virus-Scanned: ClamAV version 0.86.2,
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Status: RO


I think the list might be mid-hiccup or at that point in a cyber-shneeze where it's gathering the emails for big explosive schneeze.

And then we'll all be innundated... 
-------------- Original message -------------- 

> Anyone else out there? I'm not getting any mail from the list. 
> 
> Sg 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Oct  4 19:04:58 2005
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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Testing
Date: Tue, 04 Oct 2005 23:03:48 +0000
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Status: RO


I think the list might be mid-hiccup or at that point in a cyber-shneeze where it's gathering the emails for big explosive schneeze.

And then we'll all be innundated..
Elena/Gia. 
-------------- Original message -------------- 

> Anyone else out there? I'm not getting any mail from the list. 
> 
> Sg 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Oct  4 19:07:32 2005
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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Testing
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Status: RO

Adele de Maisieres wrote:

> WickedFrau wrote:
> 
>> Anyone else out there?  I'm not getting any mail from the list.
> 
> I got this.  The last email I had before this one was ~14 hours ago.
> 


Got both tests and Adele's reply. Something is working...



Dawn

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Subject: [h-cost] Known World Costume Symposium
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I'm sure all the SCA people know about this, but even non-SCA people who are interested in medieval or renaissance costume would find things to learn at this event this weekend.  It will be in Atchison, Kansas which is near Kansas City.  The website is very badly designed but at least gives the minimum information: http://www.dunard.org/KnownWorldCostuming/Index.htm

Janet
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] fine linnen
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Where does one purchase this wonderful linen?
Anne

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 9:04 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] fine linnen

Hi.
First thanks for all your good wishes for my quick recovery.
Apropos very fine linen, my embroidery shop has taken home some very fine 
linen. It is so fine that it is sheer, and the slopes are only very little.
 i remember back that some people needed sources for fine linen to a Chemise

a la Reine. This would be very usefull for it. Dont think i have seen this 
before and just wanted to share that it is available on the market today.


Bjarne






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Subject: [h-cost] Henry James film
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After having thought I'd seen every Henry James film adaptation in 
existence, I just ran across a "new" one--a 1998 PBS Pictures film of 
"The American," starring Matthew Modine, Diana Rigg, and others.  They 
took a few liberties with the novel, but it's a good film.  It's set in 
the later 1860s which is a rather unusual costume period for films. 

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costume
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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Another PBS/BBC Mystery production set in the mid-late 1860's is "Uncle
Silas" with Peter O'Toole.

Not too many on-screen stuff is set in the mid-late 1860's or 1884-5,
probably because both of these sets of years during the rule of the
bustle/back fullness dress cycle are seen as visually unattractive
today.  Probably the same reason we don't see too many productions set
in the late Elizabethan or early Jacobean wealthy and court society, as
well as into Charles I. In the former French farthingales take up too
much space and in the later all those high-waisted, big sleeved, wide
and ornate collars make most women look fat and/or pregnant to modern
eyes

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 4:24 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Henry James film

After having thought I'd seen every Henry James film adaptation in
existence, I just ran across a "new" one--a 1998 PBS Pictures film of
"The American," starring Matthew Modine, Diana Rigg, and others.  They
took a few liberties with the novel, but it's a good film.  It's set in
the later 1860s which is a rather unusual costume period for films. 

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costume
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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In a message dated 10/5/2005 6:11:16 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu writes:

It's set  in
the later 1860s which is a rather unusual costume period for films.  



Yes, the only other things I've seen in this silhouette are the fiancee's  
gowns in "The French Lieutenant's Woman" and "Scarlet"...the sequel to "Gone  
With the Wind" [what a dreadful idea THAT was!]
 
 
I'd love to see "The American"...someone a while back on the classical  music 
boards I'm on was saying how much they liked it....or was that "Our Mutual  
Friend" by Dickens?
 
Anyway...speaking of Dickens and Diana Rigg, there's a "Bleak House" I've  
never seen. BBC, I think. And a "Woman in White" [who wrote that one? a great  
little gothic yarn!] I did see and loved. Neither are on DVD or tape or 
anything  that I can find.
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BTW....
 
 
I went to DVDpricesearch.com [a very good site] to check and see if  any of 
these films were now available. It had been a while since I looked.
 
Voila!
 
"Bleak House"....with Diana Rigg and "Our Mutual Friend" are  both  available 
on DVD and a mere $9.98 at Deep Discount DVD....with free shipping in  the US.
 
"The American" was not there, but a search for Diana Rigg turned up the  1968 
Royal Shakespeare production of " A Midsummer Night's Dream" that is  
wonderful! Very primitive video-wise [actually kinda quaint] and in modern  
dress...sorta....for the 60s, but the best reading ever! After all, the play's  the 
thing. Ian Richardson's Oberon is the best I've ever seen. Judi Dench is  Titania 
with her boobs hanging out and painted green. Ian Holm is Puck. Helen  Mirren 
is Hermia. David Warner is Lysander. Diana Rigg is Helena. It's just  great!  
 
No "Woman in White" alas.
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Henry James film
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"The American" is on DVD if anyone wants to see it.  It is hard to find 
on Amazon, there are a ton of films with "American" in the title, but it 
is there. You could try looking for the stars' names.

I have "The Woman in White" on VHS tape.  The novel is by Wilkie 
Collins. He also wrote "The Moonstone," and there is a good film of 
that, which I also have on tape.  "Lady Audley's Secret" is another good 
Gothic film.

The BBC "Bleak House" is on film too.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com



> 
>Anyway...speaking of Dickens and Diana Rigg, there's a "Bleak House" I've  
>never seen. BBC, I think. And a "Woman in White" [who wrote that one? a great  
>little gothic yarn!] I did see and loved. Neither are on DVD or tape or 
>anything  that I can find.
>_______________________________________________
>
>  
>
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From: Galadriel of Lothlorien <galadrielfinwe@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question: Ageless Patterns 1891
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I have found that with many old corset patterns in
general, I have to take in the bust gores
considerably.  I didn't use this particular pattern,
but I did put together another ageless pattern corset
and that was the easiest way to fix the problem of the
overly-large bust.

I can't say that my measurements were THAT far off,
though.  I know in the past, that with other corset
patterns with so many pieces, I've ended up throwing a
whole piece away to get it to fit correctly.  Strange!
 If you have someone to help you fit it, try to see
where it is coming out too large and have them help
you pin it in to fit/cinch you.  That's the best
suggestion I can offer, which is probably obvious!  ;)

When I've made the Ageless Patterns work, I've always
been pleased with the results.  Good luck!




		
__________________________________ 
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 
http://mail.yahoo.com
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Henry James film
Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2005 07:43:37 -0400
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This is one of my favorite renderings of Mid Summer... I think I remember
seeing it actually on TV when it was done.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 7:41 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Henry James film


> BTW....
>
>
> I went to DVDpricesearch.com [a very good site] to check and see if  any
of
> these films were now available. It had been a while since I looked.
>
> Voila!
>
> "Bleak House"....with Diana Rigg and "Our Mutual Friend" are  both
available
> on DVD and a mere $9.98 at Deep Discount DVD....with free shipping in  the
US.
>
> "The American" was not there, but a search for Diana Rigg turned up the
1968
> Royal Shakespeare production of " A Midsummer Night's Dream" that is
> wonderful! Very primitive video-wise [actually kinda quaint] and in modern
> dress...sorta....for the 60s, but the best reading ever! After all, the
play's  the
> thing. Ian Richardson's Oberon is the best I've ever seen. Judi Dench is
Titania
> with her boobs hanging out and painted green. Ian Holm is Puck. Helen
Mirren
> is Hermia. David Warner is Lysander. Diana Rigg is Helena. It's just
great!
>
> No "Woman in White" alas.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Henry James film
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>a search for Diana Rigg turned up the
>1968
> > Royal Shakespeare production of " A Midsummer Night's Dream" that is
> > wonderful! Very primitive video-wise [actually kinda quaint] and in modern
> > dress...sorta....for the 60s, but the best reading ever! After all, the
>play's  the
> > thing. Ian Richardson's Oberon is the best I've ever seen. Judi Dench is
>Titania
> > with her boobs hanging out and painted green. Ian Holm is Puck. Helen
>Mirren
> > is Hermia. David Warner is Lysander. Diana Rigg is Helena. It's just
>great!


I was working at the Royal Shakespeare Theatre in 1968 when they were 
filming "Midsummer Night's Dream." Meeting a bright green Ian Holm in 
the car park, with his pointy ears and all was a bit startling, 
especially as I had known him for years! They all used to come back 
to the theatre to shower off the green makeup, as there were no 
facilities at Compton Wynyates, where they were filming. 
(Incidentally the man who invented the process for bald caps and 
pointy ears, as worn by Mr Spock, was the Wig Master at Stratford.)

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fine linnen
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Status: RO

I look forward to hearing from Bjarne whether we might have access to this linen.  In the mean time.  Linen like this is available online from the Linen House, but is very expensive.  

http://www.thelinenhouse.com/EN/FRAMESET.asp?VS=TLHO&LA=ENGL<http://www.thelinenhouse.com/EN/FRAMESET.asp?VS=TLHO&LA=ENGL>

I have a set of their samples if you would like some guidance about the fineness.  My sample set is a few years old now, but I think I can give you some idea of what they are like.



Sg
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Anne Moeller<mailto:ladyanne@quik.com> 
  To: 'Historical Costume'<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 6:25 AM
  Subject: RE: [h-cost] fine linnen


  Where does one purchase this wonderful linen?
  Anne
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]Bleak House, was  Henry James film
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There is about to be a new BBC version of "Bleak House" dramatised by Andrew Davis of "Pride and Prejudice" fame, with Gillian Anderson in the Diana Rigg role. The previous version was 1985 according to "Radio Times".
The version of "The Woman in White" shown on TV a few years back took considerable liberties with the plot, trying to be "relevant" by making Sir Percival Glyde's guilty secret to do with child abuse rather than that his parents weren't legally married.


 
 
Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost]Bleak House, was  Henry James film
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Although the films of "The Woman in White" and "The  Moonstone" are both 
good, I think Wilkie Collins' novels are better in both cases.  The 
novels are mysteries; the suspense aspects, the unraveling of mysteries 
bit by bit, the false leads, are not really carried off as well in the 
films.  "The Woman in White," as a novel, is a Gothic as well as a 
mystery, and that doesn't come through as well in the film either.

Still, I'm glad the films were made, and I liked them.  I'll look at any 
film based on a novel I like unless it's really, really, really bad 
(according to reviews).  I even kind of liked the modernized "Great 
Expectations" with Gwyneth Paltrow (think Dickens Lite), aside from the 
music.

I am looking forward to the new "Bleak House."  Do you know when it will 
be coming out and especially, coming out on DVD?

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Kate M Bunting wrote:

>There is about to be a new BBC version of "Bleak House" dramatised by Andrew Davis of "Pride and Prejudice" fame, with Gillian Anderson in the Diana Rigg role. The previous version was 1985 according to "Radio Times".
>The version of "The Woman in White" shown on TV a few years back took considerable liberties with the plot, trying to be "relevant" by making Sir Percival Glyde's guilty secret to do with child abuse rather than that his parents weren't legally married.
>
>
>
>  
>
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Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> fran@lavoltapress.com 06/10/2005 19:09 >>> wrote

 
>.I am looking forward to the new "Bleak House."  Do you know when it will 
>be coming out and especially, coming out on DVD?

It starts on UK TV next week. I suppose it will come out on DVD after the whole series has been shown.

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Bjarne at Gustavian feast
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Bjarne is the subject of the 6th row, center picture

www.my-drewscostumes.dk/bl17.htm

Sandy

At 01:00 PM 10/3/2005, you wrote:
>Date: Mon, 03 Oct 2005 06:54:50 -0700
>From: WickedFrau <wickedfrau@msn.com>
>
>Bjarne, first, I am sorry to hear of your broken wrist!  Lovely
>pictures...are you in any of them?  I thought it might be you in the
>yellow silk suit-but it is a little hard to tell with all the makeup?
>
>Sg

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Subject: [h-cost] Review? Women's Costume 1877-1885: The Complete Dress and
 Cloak Cutter
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http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/BKCT5048.shtml

It's me again. :)

Does anyone have this title, or have comments on the contents?  The 
description says "pattern diagrams and illustrations" but I'm wondering 
if it has real intructions or if it's just copies of old scale diagrams 
that I have to interpret myself. (Like a lot of other books)



Dawn


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Review? Women's Costume 1877-1885: The Complete Dress
	and Cloak Cutter
Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2005 11:19:44 -0500
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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Yes, it is the original scale patterns and illustrations from tailoring
and fitting instructions originally printed. Unless the late Jean
Hunnisett has a successor to carry on  her Period Costume for Stage and
Screen series of books, I doubt we will see any more books on historic
patterns scaled to fit the modern wearer.

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 10:39 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Review? Women's Costume 1877-1885: The Complete Dress
and Cloak Cutter

http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/BKCT5048.shtml

It's me again. :)

Does anyone have this title, or have comments on the contents?  The
description says "pattern diagrams and illustrations" but I'm wondering
if it has real intructions or if it's just copies of old scale diagrams
that I have to interpret myself. (Like a lot of other books)



Dawn


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Hi! I'm moving from the San Francisco area to Cleveland in 2 weeks, and I was wondering if there is anyone else on this list in the Cleveland area?
	Cheers!
		-sunny


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Review? Women's Costume 1877-1885: The Complete Dress
	and Cloak ...
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In a message dated 10/7/2005 10:23:11 A.M. Mountain Standard Time,  
CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu writes:

Yes, it  is the original scale patterns and illustrations from tailoring
and fitting  instructions originally printed. Unless the late Jean
Hunnisett has a  successor to carry on  her Period Costume for Stage and
Screen series  of books, I doubt we will see any more books on historic
patterns scaled to  fit the modern wearer.



And because the information on the "Princess" line of this period is so  
difficult to come by, it is a good source of information.  I would be  lost 
without it during my current design and build of "Doll's House".  It  also contains 
a detailed account of "etiquette" regarding the proper  time and place for 
different fashions of the time IE. Traveling, visiting,  promenading, opera, 
mourning (all three degrees), etc.  Cheryl  Odom
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jill Hadfield <jill@jigrah.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cleveland?
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<big grin>
I live in the Cleveland area in the North East of England - any good?

Jill

At 12:43 07/10/2005 -0600, you wrote:

>Hi! I'm moving from the San Francisco area to Cleveland in 2 weeks, and I 
>was wondering if there is anyone else on this list in the Cleveland area?
>         Cheers!
>                 -sunny
>
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JiGraH Resources  -  www.jigrah.co.uk


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Subject: [h-cost] Punto Tagliato Lace Commission...
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Hi all... working late and finally have a chance to update things... so
just in case anyone is interested in the state of the Punto Tagliato
Lace Commission...

http://www.people.cornell.edu/pages/ms154/LaceComm/

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It is awesome!  You are doing a fabulous job.
 
:)
~Kimberley
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Review? Women's Costume 1877-1885: The Complete Dress
	and Cloak Cutter
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The new edition of Hecklinger's _Dress and Cloak Cutter_? It's typical 
of my old friend Robb Shep's books. (He recently moved back to San 
Francisco, in a neighborhood near mine! But Fred Struthers is still 
distributing Robb's books from Fort Bragg, for those who want to buy 
direct; the URL is www.rlshep.com.) The _Dress and Cloak Cutter_ 
contains a solid selection of women's pattern drafts primarily oriented 
to tailored clothes, probably drawn to true scale but I haven't done the 
math to check. Anyway it includes all the period drafting instructions 
and a supplementary section on clothing etiquette.

If you want sizing, our two-volume anthology _Fashions of the Gilded 
Age_, which contains several hundred patterns for women's garments from 
1877 through 1882, includes many patterns that use an apportioning scale 
system. Volume 2 also includes a dressmaking manual with information 
drawn from many sources. Both volumes contain extensive quotes from 
fashion columns and other sources on construction, fabrics, trimmings, 
what was worn when, etc.

Paper patterns, in the sense of Butterick et al, are just not a suitable 
production format for a book. Basically you've got a trade-off. You can 
buy individual full-sized patterns in modern sizes and get the 
convenience of that. Or you can buy a book, and enlarge and size the 
patterns (even if they are drawn to _a_ modern size, it's not 
necessarily the wearer's). And you get a much larger range of styles at 
a lower per-pattern price. But book and full-size pattern publishing 
formats can't do all the same things; think of a book's sizing and 
binding issues. Aside from the shelving issues that make a book larger 
than 8 1/2” by 11” significantly harder to sell to both bookstores and 
libraries, the more you put into a book for each pattern, the fewer 
patterns will fit in it. You also have to realize that if you want a 
book that is a direct reprint of an original source (like most of 
Robb's) or based on original sources (like ours), there is not an 
infinite number of original sources. The further back you go, the fewer 
there are. The best books in English with women’s clothing patterns that 
I know of (and I’ve been collecting for decades) are the Hecklinger that 
Robb reprinted (and Robb’s also collected for decades), and an extremely 
rare US source that we used for parts of _Fashions of the Gilded Age_. 
The German book that we used as a source for the apportioning scale 
patterns, and some others, is a bigger (many more patterns) and IMO a 
better book than Hecklinger’s. But, we had to pay a professional 
technical translator quite a lot. And I still had supervise her very 
closely using my knowledge of period patterns and clothing, and what's 
left of my college German. And there isn't an infinite number of foreign 
sources either, nor are they, as a general rule, hugely different from 
the ones in English.


Fran
Lavolta Press Books of Historic Patterns
http://www.lavoltapress.com

>
>Does anyone have this title, or have comments on the contents?  The
>description says "pattern diagrams and illustrations" but I'm wondering
>if it has real intructions or if it's just copies of old scale diagrams
>that I have to interpret myself. (Like a lot of other books)
>
>
>
>Dawn
>
>
>  
>
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Sorry, I meant not the best original books of patterns "for all time," 
but the best ones for women's clothes of the late 1870s and early 1880s, 
specifically; not before or after. 

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

> The best books in English with women’s clothing patterns that I know 
> of (and I’ve been collecting for decades) are the Hecklinger that Robb 
> reprinted (and Robb’s also collected for decades),

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Review? Women's Costume 1877-1885: The Complete Dress
	and Cloak Cutter
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Lavolta Press wrote:

>  The _Dress and Cloak Cutter_ 
> contains a solid selection of women's pattern drafts primarily oriented 
> to tailored clothes, probably drawn to true scale but I haven't done the 
> math to check. Anyway it includes all the period drafting instructions 
> and a supplementary section on clothing etiquette.

Does it contain any assembly instructions?  I can usually figure out 
what the pattern pieces are in the miniature diagrams, I just have no 
idea how to assemble clothing from this era without it looking like a 
bad home ec project.



Dawn


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In a message dated 10/7/2005 7:49:21 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dawn@reddawn.net writes:

I just  have no 
idea how to assemble clothing from this era without it looking  like a 
bad home ec project.



*************************
 
Oh c'mon! I'm sure your skills are more then adequate. 
 
The way I was taught:
One thing is, you have to trace all sewing lines and not rely on even seam  
allowances like a commercial pattern. Indeed, if the bodice is flat lined,  as 
they usually are, the best way is to trace on the flat lining, and then hand  
baste the lining to the fashion fabric while each piece is flat on a table 
[FLAT  lining after all] right on [or just outside] the traced sewing lines. This 
way  you can see the sewing lines on both sides of each pattern piece. [If 
the fabric  was thick, we would baste right on the traced lines, and sew just to 
the outside  of them...to make up for the thickness of the layers of fabric.]
 
You then line pieces up by sticking a pin through the two pieces being  sewn 
together to line them up. Then using ANOTHER pin to pin it in place before  
you take out the pin you used to line it up. Lots of balance marks help.
 
The other non-modern thing is you must set sleeves into the armseye. None  of 
this sewing the sleeve seams and underarm seam at the same time stuff. Again  
using the line-up-with-a-pin method and matching seams if they match and  
lots of balance marks. My friend who used to work with me on period movies would  
hand bast in sleeves after pinning if they were difficult, like Gigot or  leg 
o' mutton sleeves, before sewing them in by machine....but you  don't NEED to 
do this. 
 
All this basting is of course pulled out later.
 
And of course clipping the allowance of curved seams so they will lay flat  
when pressed open is a must.
 
I once saw a pair of 1890s bodices obviously made by the same TOC  
seamstress. The insides were beautiful. The curved seams of the 6 piece backs  were 
scalloped....not just clipped...like they were clipped every inch or so and  the 
right angles of the clipped seam allowance cut off in curves. Then  pressed 
open. Then the raw scalloped edges were bound in narrow magenta  seam binding. 
THEN a bone, covered in brown glazed cotton, was cross stitched  down the center 
of each seam, to the seam allowance, with magenta thread.  All those 
scalloped and bound and boned seams converging to about an inch apart  at the waist 
was a thing of beauty!
The front was just 2 pieces [as usual] with 2 darts on each side of CF  under 
the bust, again with boning cross stitch down each dart that  was clipped 
just once at the waist.
 
This is the way to do it. Time consuming? A bit. But, y'know....if  you're 
gonna do it anyway.....
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cleveland?
Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2005 20:55:13 -0400
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I don't live in Cleveland; I'm about an hour and a half southeast of it. 
You'll love the Cleveland Museum of Art and the Kent State University 
Fashion Museum!

kate

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <sunshine_buchler@agilent.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 2:43 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Cleveland?


> Hi! I'm moving from the San Francisco area to Cleveland in 2 weeks, and I 
> was wondering if there is anyone else on this list in the Cleveland area?
> Cheers!
> -sunny
>
>
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From: Kitty Felton <basyefelton@floodcity.net>
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	and Cloak ...
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Ok, I just gotta ask.  first of all, what is a TOC seamstress?
then more importantly, was the seam binding sewed to the scallops in 
scallops or was it straight following where the seam was or would be?

thanks,  Kitty

AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
>  
> In a message dated 10/7/2005 7:49:21 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
> dawn@reddawn.net writes:

>  
> I once saw a pair of 1890s bodices obviously made by the same TOC  
> seamstress. The insides were beautiful. The curved seams of the 6 piece backs  were 
> scalloped....not just clipped...like they were clipped every inch or so and  the 
> right angles of the clipped seam allowance cut off in curves. Then  pressed 
> open. Then the raw scalloped edges were bound in narrow magenta  seam binding. 
> THEN a bone, covered in brown glazed cotton, was cross stitched  down the center 
> of each seam, to the seam allowance, with magenta thread.  All those 
> scalloped and bound and boned seams converging to about an inch apart  at the waist 
> was a thing of beauty!
> The front was just 2 pieces [as usual] with 2 darts on each side of CF  under 
> the bust, again with boning cross stitch down each dart that  was clipped 
> just once at the waist.
>  
> This is the way to do it. Time consuming? A bit. But, y'know....if  you're 
> gonna do it anyway.....
> _______________

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I have found very little info so far on tippets and how they were made. A couple of sources I found said it was a strip of white linen tied above the elbow. Others said it was sewn on.
 
Yet other things I have seen and read make it seem like a scaled down version of the wide belled sleeves and made from the same fabric as the surcotte.
 
Anyone ever looked into this? They had to have been sewn on somehow, or else how would you prevent them from sliding down the arm?
 
I saw one version at an SCA event that had them like a lining on a cuff and then turned up to show the contrasting fabric.
 
Does anyone know if there is any extant examples that are clear on the construction? Or any resources that may be specific on the construction. From what I have seen, the SCA example I saw was not accurate.
 
Annette M

		
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From: Marie Stewart <maricelt@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tippets
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Robin Netherton has written quite an explanation of tippets.  The
article is in the first Journal of Medieval Clothing and Textiles. 
Information there may help you in your efforts to produce your own. 
The article is scholarly, and not a how-to-make type.
Of course... you might have already read it.   ; >
Good Luck .
Hope this helps.
Mari / Bridgette

On 10/8/05, Kahlara <kahlara@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I have found very little info so far on tippets and how they were made. A couple of sources I found said it was a strip of white linen tied above the elbow. Others said it was sewn on.
>
> Yet other things I have seen and read make it seem like a scaled down version of the wide belled sleeves and made from the same fabric as the surcotte.
>
> Anyone ever looked into this? They had to have been sewn on somehow, or else how would you prevent them from sliding down the arm?
>
> I saw one version at an SCA event that had them like a lining on a cuff and then turned up to show the contrasting fabric.
>
> Does anyone know if there is any extant examples that are clear on the construction? Or any resources that may be specific on the construction. From what I have seen, the SCA example I saw was not accurate.
>
> Annette M
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>  Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
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Thank you Kimberley.  :> Mari / Bridgette

On 10/7/05, Chindora@aol.com <Chindora@aol.com> wrote:
> It is awesome!  You are doing a fabulous job.
>
> :)
> ~Kimberley
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From: "Sapphire And Sage" <sapphireandsage@neo.rr.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cleveland?
Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2005 08:37:02 -0400
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Hi Sunny!  :)

I'm in Wadsworth, which is 30 minutes South of Cleveland, just East of Rt. 
71.  Which part of Cleveland are you moving to?  Hope you're ready for the 
snow!  :)

 ~Rhonda
Sapphire & Sage - Renaissance Jewelry & Accessories
((¸¸.·' ...·' -:¦:- www.sapphireandsage.com
¤º°`°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¤º°`°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¤º°`°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤

----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <sunshine_buchler@agilent.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] Cleveland?
> Hi! I'm moving from the San Francisco area to Cleveland in 2 weeks, and I 
> was wondering if there is anyone else on this list in the Cleveland area?

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cleveland?
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sunshine_buchler@agilent.com wrote:

> Hi! I'm moving from the San Francisco area to Cleveland in 2 weeks, and I was wondering if there is anyone else on this list in the Cleveland area?
> 	Cheers!


But if you mean Cleveland Ohio, then you might also like to visit the 
Rock and Roll Hall of Fame. Beside the music and artist exhibits they 
have an entire hall dedicated to the customs the bands and artists wore 
on and off stage. Historical if you consider the 60's - 90's historical.


Your humble and obediant servant,
David S Mallinak

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Oct  8 11:55:38 2005
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tippets
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On Fri, 7 Oct 2005, Kahlara wrote:

> I have found very little info so far on tippets and how they were
> made.

As Mari noted, tippets are an interest of mine, and I have put essentially
everything I know about them into an article that appeared in the first
volume of _Medieval Clothing & Textiles_ (issued spring 2005), eds. Gale
Owen-Crocker and myself. For the long answer, I'd suggest you borrow or
ILL it; if you can't get a copy easily, e-mail me directly and we'll work
something out.

> A couple of sources I found said it was a strip of white linen tied
> above the elbow. Others said it was sewn on.

Short answer: Most of the "standard" sources are almost certainly wrong.

The most important conclusions (I'll leave the detailed analysis and
evidence to the article):

-- The tippets that look like a band around the upper arm with a hanging
streamer (which is what you seem to be asking about) were almost certainly
*not* separate wardrobe items, but rather decorative cuffs on
short-sleeved overgowns, made as part and parcel of the garment.

-- I can find no suggestion in any source that the bands/streamers were
linen, silk, or other fabric. There is substantial circumstantial evidence
that the depictions were meant to indicate fur -- in fact, an extension of
the (almost always white) fur lining typically used on these gowns.

> Yet other things I have seen and read make it seem like a scaled down
> version of the wide belled sleeves and made from the same fabric as
> the surcotte.

This sounds like a description of certain other decorative sleeve endings
from near to the same time period. A thorough look at the visual sources
shows that sleeve endings pass through a sequence of stages, the
band-and-streamer tippet being only one style in that sequence.

Some modern costumers use the term "tippet" to refer to several different
types of hanging sleeve decorations, and then distinguish them by various
terms such as "integral tippets" or "banded tippets" or whatever -- though
I have seen a lot of inconsistency in the modern use of such terms, and
there is no parallel distinction in the (highly fluid and imprecise)
terminology of the period. The word "tippet" was used for a variety of
things, including hood tails.

> Does anyone know if there is any extant examples that are clear on the
> construction? Or any resources that may be specific on the
> construction.

There are (to my knowledge) no extant tippets. There are plentiful visual
sources of varying quality, rare written references to the style, and
(again to my knowledge) absolutely no line-item entries in inventories,
wills, shop lists, etc. As near as I can tell, they are never referred to
as separate items, only as a feature of a particular style of garment.

>  I saw one version at an SCA event that had them like a lining on a
> cuff and then turned up to show the contrasting fabric. ... From what
> I have seen, the SCA example I saw was not accurate.

It was probably more accurate than most of the other examples you may have
seen, as I suspect the band-and-streamer style developed as a formalized
version of the visual impression created by turning up a fur-lined short
sleeve with a hanging extension, which was the sleeve style immediately
preceding the appearance of the tippet. But *that* is my own speculation.

For the long version, I refer you to the article.

--Robin



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Is it possible that since sleeves were seamed on the sides and usually not
underneath that the sleeve seams are open from wrist to lower bicep. Top of
forearm sleeve is removed leaving the lower forearm sleeve. Role once
leaving the lining exposed?

De




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Review? Women's Costume 1877-1885: The Complete Dress
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In a message dated 10/7/2005 10:37:15 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
basyefelton@floodcity.net writes:

first of  all, what is a TOC seamstress?
 
*************************
 
 
TOC = turn of the century. In this case, the 19th into the 20th  century.


then  more importantly, was the seam binding sewed to the scallops in 
scallops  or was it straight following where the seam was or would be?
The magenta seam binding was very much like commercial seam binding you'd  
find today, a narrow tape. It's supple enough to curve around the scallops and  
this is what it did.
 
Also the method for sewing the bones in was this: The casings were sewn  
down, not the bone [duh!] which was real whalebone. You always have the needle  
pointing in the opposite direction from the direction the sewing is going. In  
this case start at the top of the boning casing on the left edge and, with  the 
needle pointing up, take a stitch through it and the seam allowance. Now  
cross over the bone to the other [right] edge and , again, needle pointing  up, 
take a...oh 1/8"+ stitch...about 3/4" down. Then cross over to the left 3/4"  
down and take a stitch...then right...left...right...until you reach the end of 
 the casing.
 
This is a great way to add boning to an already made up bodice. Doing it in  
magenta thread I've seen in more than a couple of bodices. But I must say  
getting a needle through modern commercial boning casing is a bitch!
 
The bodices themselves were made of chocolate brown silk and trimmed with  
the same brown, cream and red silk brocade in a kind of  interlocking geometric 
pattern. One had 3/4 length  kinda full  sleeves with elaborate cuffs, and the 
other bishop sleeves. Buttons down  the CF and high necks. Both bodices 
stopped at the waist with tucked sashes  attached. The sashes and the way the 
brocade was used around the yolk area, down  the front and on the sleeves was 
different on each one. Obviously for  the same, now lost, skirt.
 
I saw these in a costume stock in St. Louis.



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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tippets
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On Sat, 8 Oct 2005, otsisto wrote:

> Is it possible that since sleeves were seamed on the sides and usually
> not underneath that the sleeve seams are open from wrist to lower
> bicep. Top of forearm sleeve is removed leaving the lower forearm
> sleeve.

Opening a long sleeve halfway up is one of several ways to achieve a
hanging-flap extension on a short sleeve, and you see variations on this
in the early 15th c. That technique is easy to formalize into a
squared-off pendant; there are examples of that style in Franco-Flemish
mss of about 1415-1440, including the Tres Riches Heures and the various
illustrated Bocaccio manuscripts.

However, the short-sleeve extensions you see most often in early-to-mid
14th c. art seem to have developed not directly from opening a long
sleeve, but from a different direction. Coming into the century, you start
with overgown sleeves that are slightly shorter and wider than the tight
undergown sleeves. Over time, you can see the overgown sleeve shorten
further; only then does it develop a hanging point off the bottom
(probably originally as an artifact of the rectalinear cutting method).
Then the piont lengthens into a pendant, growing longer over time into its
own design element. The fur lining is visible on the inside of the hanging
bit. The result is a half-length sleeve (to the bend of the elbow) with a
narrow hanging piece that is a continuation of the sleeve along the back,
but shows a fur surface from the front view (the exposed lining)

It's important to note that other things were happening with the
construction of long (undergown) sleeves in this period, specifically the
development of the set-in sleeve in the 1330s, which enabled the rotation
of the sleeve seam from underneath to the outside, and then the fitting of
the long sleeves all the way up (often with buttons) instead of just at
the lower forearm. So the "opened up long sleeve" you describe could
probably not have occurred during the earlier part of the development in
this century, when the typical construction method was a gusseted sleeve
with a seam along the bottom. This had all changed by the early 1400s.

> Role once leaving the lining exposed?

I can't recall seeing the rolling done on long sleeves that have been
opened halfway up (that would be early 1400s, and tippets were outdated by
then). However, going back to the period of 1350-1380, in which tippets
developed from pendent sleeves: Once you have the fur-lined pendent
sleeve, it's a reasonable thing to flip the bottom of the sleeve back to
form a cuff, showing off the fur lining. This casual alteration leaves the
pendant hanging a bit awkwardly and it would have been hard to maintain,
but the visual impact is distinct -- a fur band around the middle of the
upper arm (not down near the elbow) and a fur hanging piece. This is what
I think led to the formalization of the fur band-and-streamer style, which
would have been cut and sewn in that shape.

--Robin
sleeve addict

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Hi!  I'm in Canton, 60 miles south.  Cleveland is in the Barony of 
the Cleftlands - they are big & quite active.  Huge public library 
system, one of the best museums in the country, universities all over 
the place - LOTS of research opportunities!

Maria
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Date: Sat, 08 Oct 2005 23:36:17 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tippets
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Hi Robin--

How does one go about subscribing to "Medieval Clothing & Textiles" ?

Dame Catriona MacDuff / Monica Spence

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2005 11:18 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tippets



On Fri, 7 Oct 2005, Kahlara wrote:

> I have found very little info so far on tippets and how they were
> made.

As Mari noted, tippets are an interest of mine, and I have put essentially
everything I know about them into an article that appeared in the first
volume of _Medieval Clothing & Textiles_ (issued spring 2005), eds. Gale
Owen-Crocker and myself. For the long answer, I'd suggest you borrow or
ILL it; if you can't get a copy easily, e-mail me directly and we'll work
something out.

> A couple of sources I found said it was a strip of white linen tied
> above the elbow. Others said it was sewn on.

Short answer: Most of the "standard" sources are almost certainly wrong.

The most important conclusions (I'll leave the detailed analysis and
evidence to the article):

-- The tippets that look like a band around the upper arm with a hanging
streamer (which is what you seem to be asking about) were almost certainly
*not* separate wardrobe items, but rather decorative cuffs on
short-sleeved overgowns, made as part and parcel of the garment.

-- I can find no suggestion in any source that the bands/streamers were
linen, silk, or other fabric. There is substantial circumstantial evidence
that the depictions were meant to indicate fur -- in fact, an extension of
the (almost always white) fur lining typically used on these gowns.

> Yet other things I have seen and read make it seem like a scaled down
> version of the wide belled sleeves and made from the same fabric as
> the surcotte.

This sounds like a description of certain other decorative sleeve endings
from near to the same time period. A thorough look at the visual sources
shows that sleeve endings pass through a sequence of stages, the
band-and-streamer tippet being only one style in that sequence.

Some modern costumers use the term "tippet" to refer to several different
types of hanging sleeve decorations, and then distinguish them by various
terms such as "integral tippets" or "banded tippets" or whatever -- though
I have seen a lot of inconsistency in the modern use of such terms, and
there is no parallel distinction in the (highly fluid and imprecise)
terminology of the period. The word "tippet" was used for a variety of
things, including hood tails.

> Does anyone know if there is any extant examples that are clear on the
> construction? Or any resources that may be specific on the
> construction.

There are (to my knowledge) no extant tippets. There are plentiful visual
sources of varying quality, rare written references to the style, and
(again to my knowledge) absolutely no line-item entries in inventories,
wills, shop lists, etc. As near as I can tell, they are never referred to
as separate items, only as a feature of a particular style of garment.

>  I saw one version at an SCA event that had them like a lining on a
> cuff and then turned up to show the contrasting fabric. ... From what
> I have seen, the SCA example I saw was not accurate.

It was probably more accurate than most of the other examples you may have
seen, as I suspect the band-and-streamer style developed as a formalized
version of the visual impression created by turning up a fur-lined short
sleeve with a hanging extension, which was the sleeve style immediately
preceding the appearance of the tippet. But *that* is my own speculation.

For the long version, I refer you to the article.

--Robin



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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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On Sat, 8 Oct 2005, monica spence wrote:

> How does one go about subscribing to "Medieval Clothing & Textiles" ?

It's an annual journal published in book form. It's assumed that most
subscribers will be libraries that will want to assemble a complete set,
though I suppose that there would be some way for individuals to subscribe
as well. Most people, though, will want to buy individual volumes based on
their interest in specific papers included.

The papers in each volume vary greatly by topic, period, and discipline.
It's our goal to have a broad range in each volume, representing early
medieval up through early modern (that's the preferred term now for
Elizabethan ;-) ), and a variety of approaches: art, literature,
documentary studies, archaeology, trade/economics, and experimental
reconstruction. The papers are peer-reviewed and academic in nature, not
focused on the how-tos of costuming, though we believe that costumers and
re-enactors who are interested in the historic aspects of their work will
find many of the papers of use. (I do encourage people to think of the
footnotes as good starting points for sources for further research in each
of the topics addressed; even if the focus of a particular paper is highly
specific, the footnotes will likely provide a far broader introduction to
the scholarly literature on that topic.)

You can see contents for Volume 1 here:
	http://www.boydell.co.uk/43831236.HTM

Volume 2 is here:
	http://www.boydell.co.uk/43832038.HTM

Depending on when you order, you can sometimes find good prices at Amazon
or B&N.

--Robin

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Date: Sun, 09 Oct 2005 00:09:21 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tippets
In-reply-to: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10510082210220.1108-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
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Thanks! I'll check it out.
Catriona/Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2005 11:22 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tippets



On Sat, 8 Oct 2005, monica spence wrote:

> How does one go about subscribing to "Medieval Clothing & Textiles" ?

It's an annual journal published in book form. It's assumed that most
subscribers will be libraries that will want to assemble a complete set,
though I suppose that there would be some way for individuals to subscribe
as well. Most people, though, will want to buy individual volumes based on
their interest in specific papers included.

The papers in each volume vary greatly by topic, period, and discipline.
It's our goal to have a broad range in each volume, representing early
medieval up through early modern (that's the preferred term now for
Elizabethan ;-) ), and a variety of approaches: art, literature,
documentary studies, archaeology, trade/economics, and experimental
reconstruction. The papers are peer-reviewed and academic in nature, not
focused on the how-tos of costuming, though we believe that costumers and
re-enactors who are interested in the historic aspects of their work will
find many of the papers of use. (I do encourage people to think of the
footnotes as good starting points for sources for further research in each
of the topics addressed; even if the focus of a particular paper is highly
specific, the footnotes will likely provide a far broader introduction to
the scholarly literature on that topic.)

You can see contents for Volume 1 here:
	http://www.boydell.co.uk/43831236.HTM

Volume 2 is here:
	http://www.boydell.co.uk/43832038.HTM

Depending on when you order, you can sometimes find good prices at Amazon
or B&N.

--Robin

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tippets
References: <NJEJJAKCDDIJCJLBNKFIAEHKCGAA.monicaspence@optonline.net>
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Have you read about tippets at 
http://www.regencygarderobe.com/Monthly%20QA%20Pages/Tippets.htm ?
Cheers, Aylwen

-------------------------------------------------
http://www.regencyreproductions.com


monica spence wrote:

>Hi Robin--
>
>How does one go about subscribing to "Medieval Clothing & Textiles" ?
>
>Dame Catriona MacDuff / Monica Spence
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
>Behalf Of Robin Netherton
>Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2005 11:18 AM
>To: Historical Costume
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tippets
>
>
>
>On Fri, 7 Oct 2005, Kahlara wrote:
>
>  
>
>>I have found very little info so far on tippets and how they were
>>made.
>>    
>>
>
>As Mari noted, tippets are an interest of mine, and I have put essentially
>everything I know about them into an article that appeared in the first
>volume of _Medieval Clothing & Textiles_ (issued spring 2005), eds. Gale
>Owen-Crocker and myself. For the long answer, I'd suggest you borrow or
>ILL it; if you can't get a copy easily, e-mail me directly and we'll work
>something out.
>
>  
>
>>A couple of sources I found said it was a strip of white linen tied
>>above the elbow. Others said it was sewn on.
>>    
>>
>
>Short answer: Most of the "standard" sources are almost certainly wrong.
>
>The most important conclusions (I'll leave the detailed analysis and
>evidence to the article):
>
>-- The tippets that look like a band around the upper arm with a hanging
>streamer (which is what you seem to be asking about) were almost certainly
>*not* separate wardrobe items, but rather decorative cuffs on
>short-sleeved overgowns, made as part and parcel of the garment.
>
>-- I can find no suggestion in any source that the bands/streamers were
>linen, silk, or other fabric. There is substantial circumstantial evidence
>that the depictions were meant to indicate fur -- in fact, an extension of
>the (almost always white) fur lining typically used on these gowns.
>
>  
>
>>Yet other things I have seen and read make it seem like a scaled down
>>version of the wide belled sleeves and made from the same fabric as
>>the surcotte.
>>    
>>
>
>This sounds like a description of certain other decorative sleeve endings
>from near to the same time period. A thorough look at the visual sources
>shows that sleeve endings pass through a sequence of stages, the
>band-and-streamer tippet being only one style in that sequence.
>
>Some modern costumers use the term "tippet" to refer to several different
>types of hanging sleeve decorations, and then distinguish them by various
>terms such as "integral tippets" or "banded tippets" or whatever -- though
>I have seen a lot of inconsistency in the modern use of such terms, and
>there is no parallel distinction in the (highly fluid and imprecise)
>terminology of the period. The word "tippet" was used for a variety of
>things, including hood tails.
>
>  
>
>>Does anyone know if there is any extant examples that are clear on the
>>construction? Or any resources that may be specific on the
>>construction.
>>    
>>
>
>There are (to my knowledge) no extant tippets. There are plentiful visual
>sources of varying quality, rare written references to the style, and
>(again to my knowledge) absolutely no line-item entries in inventories,
>wills, shop lists, etc. As near as I can tell, they are never referred to
>as separate items, only as a feature of a particular style of garment.
>
>  
>
>> I saw one version at an SCA event that had them like a lining on a
>>cuff and then turned up to show the contrasting fabric. ... From what
>>I have seen, the SCA example I saw was not accurate.
>>    
>>
>
>It was probably more accurate than most of the other examples you may have
>seen, as I suspect the band-and-streamer style developed as a formalized
>version of the visual impression created by turning up a fur-lined short
>sleeve with a hanging extension, which was the sleeve style immediately
>preceding the appearance of the tippet. But *that* is my own speculation.
>
>For the long version, I refer you to the article.
>
>--Robin
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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>
>
>_______________________________________________
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>
>  
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Punto Tagliato Lace Commission...
Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2005 08:36:29 -0400
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This project looks like it will keep you out of mischief! In real size, how
big are these pieces to be; or are the pics real size? You speak of sleeves
and chemise: will this piece show outside or will it remain only for
interior beauty?

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Marie Stewart" <maricelt@gmail.com>
To: "HCostume" <h-costume@indra.com>; "Brenda / Filipia"
<brendarich@earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 5:11 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Punto Tagliato Lace Commission...


> Hi all... working late and finally have a chance to update things... so
> just in case anyone is interested in the state of the Punto Tagliato
> Lace Commission...
>
> http://www.people.cornell.edu/pages/ms154/LaceComm/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2005 07:44:12 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tippets
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On Sun, 9 Oct 2005, A & J Garden wrote:

> Have you read about tippets at 
> http://www.regencygarderobe.com/Monthly%20QA%20Pages/Tippets.htm ?

:-) Different period, completely different clothing item from the 14th c.
detail the original poster asked about.

However, the fact that the word "tippet" was used around 1800 for a fur
accessory that had long hanging tails may suggest that the word retained a
"fur" connection, adding slightly to the evidence that the word had been
associated with a hanging fur item 400 years earlier.

--Robin

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From: Marie Stewart <maricelt@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Punto Tagliato Lace Commission...
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Hey there... the squares which hold the Punto Tagliato work are all
near to 4.5 inches in length and each little square is approximately
1/4 inch by 1/4 inch.   These panels of lace will decorate the
exterior of each sleeve, and only be seen  if peeking through an over
layer,  or when the lady removes her outer sleeves.  ;>

So pretty much - I suspect the full scope of the sleeves won't be seen
once the project is finished.

Mari / Bridgette

On 10/9/05, Lloyd Mitchell <rmitchell@washjeff.edu> wrote:
> This project looks like it will keep you out of mischief! In real size, how
> big are these pieces to be; or are the pics real size? You speak of sleeves
> and chemise: will this piece show outside or will it remain only for
> interior beauty?
>
> Kathleen
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Marie Stewart" <maricelt@gmail.com>
> To: "HCostume" <h-costume@indra.com>; "Brenda / Filipia"
> <brendarich@earthlink.net>
> Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 5:11 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Punto Tagliato Lace Commission...
>
>
> > Hi all... working late and finally have a chance to update things... so
> > just in case anyone is interested in the state of the Punto Tagliato
> > Lace Commission...
> >
> > http://www.people.cornell.edu/pages/ms154/LaceComm/
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] source for 1700-1710 Mantua
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Does anyone know of an available source that diagrams a woman's dress 
from this period? (preferably online, but I'll take what I can get)


I'm looking for a basic diagram of something like this:

http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/ho/09/euwb/hob_1991.6.1a,b.htm

or this: (woman in lower right corner)

http://www.englishcountrydancing.org/17001705.jpg



I specifically need this decade, and unfortunately Patterns of Fashion 
doesn't have a dress of this cut.



Dawn


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Not online, unfortunately, but here are two possibilities in book form:
Jean Hunnisett's "Period Costume for Stage and Screen, 1500-1800" has a 
detailed pattern, description, and sewing guide to the mantua. Hill and 
Bucknell's "The Evolution of Fashion" also makes the attempt.

Also, here's a modern attempt at same:
http://www.cdny.org/christine.html

- Hope

Dawn wrote:

> Does anyone know of an available source that diagrams a woman's dress 
> from this period? (preferably online, but I'll take what I can get)
> 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] source for 1700-1710 Mantua
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>Does anyone know of an available source that diagrams a woman's 
>dress from this period? (preferably online, but I'll take what I can 
>get)
>
>I'm looking for a basic diagram of something like this:
>
>http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/ho/09/euwb/hob_1991.6.1a,b.htm

      Someone diagrammed this gown!  She was a curator at the Met at 
the time, but was at another museum at the time of the presentation. 
At the Costume Society of America meeting held in Williamsburg 
(1999?) it was one of the presentations.  The curator was able to 
figure out the exact layout of the gown on the yardage because of the 
large size motifs of the bizarre silk.

      Does this sound familiar to anyone?  I'm trying to remember if 
the layout was given on a handout, or does anyone remember the name 
of the lady who did the research?  That might help Dawn track down 
the diagram.

      I do remember that it was mostly straight cuts, not a lot of 
curves, and no significant wasted fabric.

      You probably know this already, but wear it over stays!  Early 
18thC stays are a lot straighter than the 3rd & 4th quarters.

      -Carol
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Without checking the book, that looks like the dress diagrammed in the 
first edition of Blanche Payne's /_History of Costume: From the Ancient 
Egyptians to the Twentieth Century./_  The first edition has diagrams of 
43 garments that were replaced by text on 20th-century clothing in the 
second edition.  I'm going from memory, but I think the mantua Payne 
took a pattern from is in the Metropolitan Museum.  The photos at the 
bottom of the page might be from a Met exhibit catalog or website.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books of Historic Patterns
http://www.lavoltapress.com


> Not online, unfortunately, but here are two possibilities in book form:
> Jean Hunnisett's "Period Costume for Stage and Screen, 1500-1800" has 
> a detailed pattern, description, and sewing guide to the mantua. Hill 
> and Bucknell's "The Evolution of Fashion" also makes the attempt.
>
> Also, here's a modern attempt at same:
> http://www.cdny.org/christine.html
>
> - Hope
>
>
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I own Blanche Payne and just looked through it quickly. I don't see the gown
there and I looked through that section. I also checked the drafts section
and don't see it there. I wondered though cause this is my favorite book and
thought I had seen it there too. I have a 1965 copy. Think that makes a
difference?

Bice

On 10/9/05, Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:
>
> Without checking the book, that looks like the dress diagrammed in the
> first edition of Blanche Payne's /_History of Costume: From the Ancient
> Egyptians to the Twentieth Century./_ The first edition has diagrams of
> 43 garments that were replaced by text on 20th-century clothing in the
> second edition. I'm going from memory, but I think the mantua Payne
> took a pattern from is in the Metropolitan Museum. The photos at the
> bottom of the page might be from a Met exhibit catalog or website.
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press Books of Historic Patterns
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] source for 1700-1710 Mantua
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Lavolta Press wrote:

> Without checking the book, that looks like the dress diagrammed in the 
> first edition of Blanche Payne's /_History of Costume: From the Ancient 
> Egyptians to the Twentieth Century./_  

The one in Payne is dated 1690, but you're right, it's cut the same. 
Thanks.



Dawn



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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] source for 1700-1710 Mantua
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Status: RO

Quoting Jacqueline Johnson <kristalori@gmail.com>:

> I own Blanche Payne and just looked through it quickly. I don't see the gown
> there and I looked through that section. I also checked the drafts section
> and don't see it there. I wondered though cause this is my favorite book and
> thought I had seen it there too. I have a 1965 copy. Think that makes a
> difference?
>


http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/ho/09/euwb/hob_1991.6.1a,b.htm

I've always *loved* this dress.  A very similar dress is on page 377 of
my edition of Blanche Payne -- pattern is on 553-555.

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: Jacqueline Johnson <kristalori@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] source for 1700-1710 Mantua
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I didn't go that far back I was looking at 18th century. I did see the dress
on page 413 figure 434 and thought at fast glance that was it. But as it's
at the Copenhagen Museum that is unlikely.

On 10/9/05, Susan B. Farmer <sfarmer@goldsword.com> wrote:
>
> Quoting Jacqueline Johnson <kristalori@gmail.com>:
>
> > I own Blanche Payne and just looked through it quickly. I don't see the
> gown
> > there and I looked through that section. I also checked the drafts
> section
> > and don't see it there. I wondered though cause this is my favorite book
> and
> > thought I had seen it there too. I have a 1965 copy. Think that makes a
> > difference?
> >
>
>
> http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/ho/09/euwb/hob_1991.6.1a,b.htm
>
> I've always *loved* this dress. A very similar dress is on page 377 of
> my edition of Blanche Payne -- pattern is on 553-555.
>
> Susan
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> University of Tennessee
> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2005 03:22:28 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tippets
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>I have found very little info so far on tippets and how they were made.

I have encountered things called tippets in several different centuries.  I 
had to read a couple of sentences to realize you were talking SCA-period 
tippets, instead of, say, Georgian ones.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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	<4349CB79.7000200@uvm.edu><4349D0A3.804@lavoltapress.com><7164eae90510091935o5adeaeb0pe88074a072d8b912@mail.gmail.com><20051009221002.01e5lzr9g7u2o0sc@www.goldsword.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] source for 1700-1710 Mantua
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2005 13:00:19 +0200
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Hi,
I have not Blanche Paynes book, but i think i must have it, is it still 
available?
If it is a danish mantua you are reffering to, it has a pattern draft of it 
in: Ellen Andersen "Moden i 1700 årene"
I also made this mantua once in a green dupioni, as i could not afford 
anything else at that time.
The danish mantua dates from 1695 - 1709 (because that timeperiod, the lady 
who owned it was married. It is made of a french silk patterned with large 
scale scrolls of leaves and flowers, heavily with goldthread and emerald 
green bottom. Has a large train and sleave cuffs are buttoned with two 
buttons. Sleaves have many layed down pleats wich so often is seen in 
Watteaus paintings. Cuffs are pleated also a la raquette. The fronts are 
pleated to the waist and the overskirt  is lifted up in the sides by cord 
and button back in the bodice. The back of the bodice is so beatifull with 
deep pleats.
If someone wants, i could help with a pattern, only i must warn you about 
the sleave curve is not correctly made because they did not fold all the 
pleats when they drew the curve.
This dress is the eldest whole garment in Denmark. It was exhibited last 
year on the national museum where they had an exhibition about the danish 
manorhouses. It also is very heavy because of the gold threads. In the 
underskirt it has pockets - yes real folded pockets in the side seams. It is 
my favourite museum dress.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jacqueline Johnson" <kristalori@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 5:23 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] source for 1700-1710 Mantua


I didn't go that far back I was looking at 18th century. I did see the dress
on page 413 figure 434 and thought at fast glance that was it. But as it's
at the Copenhagen Museum that is unlikely.

On 10/9/05, Susan B. Farmer <sfarmer@goldsword.com> wrote:
>
> Quoting Jacqueline Johnson <kristalori@gmail.com>:
>
> > I own Blanche Payne and just looked through it quickly. I don't see the
> gown
> > there and I looked through that section. I also checked the drafts
> section
> > and don't see it there. I wondered though cause this is my favorite book
> and
> > thought I had seen it there too. I have a 1965 copy. Think that makes a
> > difference?
> >
>
>
> http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/ho/09/euwb/hob_1991.6.1a,b.htm
>
> I've always *loved* this dress. A very similar dress is on page 377 of
> my edition of Blanche Payne -- pattern is on 553-555.
>
> Susan
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> University of Tennessee
> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] source for 1700-1710 Mantua
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> http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/ho/09/euwb/hob_1991.6.1a,b.htm
>
> I've always *loved* this dress. A very similar dress is on page 377 of
> my edition of Blanche Payne -- pattern is on 553-555.

<<I didn't go that far back I was looking at 18th century. I did see the
dress
on page 413 figure 434 and thought at fast glance that was it. But as it's
at the Copenhagen Museum that is unlikely.>>

The pattern at the back is for the other Met mantua:
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/eudr/ho_33.54a,b.htm

There is supposed to also be a cutting diagram for this item in Cut of
Women's Dress. I have wanted to get my hands on it to compare.

Arnold has a pattern for a 1708-09 mantua from Clive House Museum, pages
70-71 of Patterns of Fashion 1. There is a wrapping gown that was supposed
to be a reassembled mantua in there too.


There is an absolutely delightful Mantua fromt he very early 18thC in a
small out of print book. There is a cutting diagram for it too, however the
library copy I had did not have it, lost by some student or other. Sigh. I
don't think the pattern was there even when I went to the University!

michaela de bruce
with enough green velveteen to make mantua for many people, but is settling
on making just one;)
http://costumes.glittersweet.com



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] source for 1700-1710 Mantua
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Status: RO

> If it is a danish mantua you are reffering to, it has a pattern draft of
it
> in: Ellen Andersen "Moden i 1700 årene"
> I also made this mantua once in a green dupioni, as i could not afford
> anything else at that time.

> If someone wants, i could help with a pattern, only i must warn you about
> the sleave curve is not correctly made because they did not fold all the
> pleats when they drew the curve.

I for one would dearly love to see the pattern, as I've been trying to
compare the various cutting techniques used in the mantua from this time.
I'm a little perplexed about the wool mantua pattern actually as it suggests
it is cut witha rounded shape at the side. I'd like to compare the Payne
diagram to the Waugh pattern (Cut of Women's Clothes) to see if they agree
on this matter.

If I could get my sticky paws on the English mantua from that wee book as
well.......

michaela de bruce
http://costumes.glittersweet.com



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From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] source for 1700-1710 Mantua
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At 12:52 10/10/2005, you wrote:
> > If it is a danish mantua you are reffering to, it has a pattern draft of
>it
> > in: Ellen Andersen "Moden i 1700 årene"
> > I also made this mantua once in a green dupioni, as i could not afford
> > anything else at that time.
>
> > If someone wants, i could help with a pattern, only i must warn you about
> > the sleave curve is not correctly made because they did not fold all the
> > pleats when they drew the curve.
>
>I for one would dearly love to see the pattern, as I've been trying to
>compare the various cutting techniques used in the mantua from this time.
>I'm a little perplexed about the wool mantua pattern actually as it suggests
>it is cut witha rounded shape at the side. I'd like to compare the Payne
>diagram to the Waugh pattern (Cut of Women's Clothes) to see if they agree
>on this matter.
>
>If I could get my sticky paws on the English mantua from that wee book as
>well.......


The English mantua you refer to is in a book 
called "18th Century Women's Costume at Blaise 
Castle House" by Helen Burnett and Cleo Witt. 
Printed by Bristol City Museum. However, the 
mantua is dated c.1738-41. It still has its matching petticoat.

Suzi



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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost]Bleak House, was  Henry James film
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Correction - "Bleak House" doesn't start this week after all. There was a feature in "Radio Times", but it looks as though the actual first episode will not be shown until later in the month.
 
Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tippets
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2005 07:24:40 -0600
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I've run into something similar, recently, with a current re-using of the
word "wimple" to describe a knitted thing ranging from a simple, oversized
tube that functions a bit like the turtlenecked part on a turtleneck sweater
(except that you can pull it up over your head, leaving your face exposed,
for warmth), or a hooded cowl, built similarly to a medieval hood with cowl
(although missing the liripipe).  It always causes this momentary "huh?"
with me, because I'm most familiar with the word as used to refer to the
woven/linen medieval women's item frequently paired with a veil. ;o)
--sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 4:22 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tippets


>
> >I have found very little info so far on tippets and how they were made.
>
> I have encountered things called tippets in several different centuries.
I
> had to read a couple of sentences to realize you were talking SCA-period
> tippets, instead of, say, Georgian ones.
>
>         CarolynKayta Barrows
> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>           www.FunStuft.com
>
>               //// \\\
>              ////-@@\\\
>             ((((   7 )))
>              (((  <> ))))
>                 )   ((((((
>            /----\   /---\))


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Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hi,
> I have not Blanche Paynes book, but i think i must have it, is it still 
> available?

It is out of print and has been for a very long time (the 1st edition 
with diagrams) but you can find used copies online if you search on the 
title.



> If it is a danish mantua you are reffering to, it has a pattern draft of 
> it in: Ellen Andersen "Moden i 1700 årene"
...
> This dress is the eldest whole garment in Denmark. It was exhibited last 
> year on the national museum where they had an exhibition about the 
> danish manorhouses. It also is very heavy because of the gold threads. 
> In the underskirt it has pockets - yes real folded pockets in the side 
> seams. It is my favourite museum dress.
> 

I would love to see any pictures of the original or your reproduction, 
or any diagrams you might have.



Dawn

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In a message dated 10/9/2005 8:52:41 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dawn@reddawn.net writes:

I  specifically need this decade, and unfortunately Patterns of Fashion  
doesn't have a dress of this cut.



But it DOES!
 
Vol. 1, 1660-1860 Pages 70 and 71.
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AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

  > But it DOES!
>  
> Vol. 1, 1660-1860 Pages 70 and 71.

Ah, thanks. Arnold was the first place I checked. Sigh, why did it have 
to be stuck in the back instead of in chronological order like every 
other garment in the book. :/




Dawn




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In a message dated 10/10/2005 1:41:06 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dawn@reddawn.net writes:

Sigh,  why did it have 
to be stuck in the back instead of in chronological order  like every 
other garment in the book. :/





*****************
 
 
That sneaky Janet!
 
Actually I think it's part of an appendix. You'll notice the  corrections for 
the quilted 1745-60 outfit there too.
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Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2005 20:16:53 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: [h-cost] Tippets / wimples
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I recently had to straighten out a confusion, because Early Medieval 
(Viking/Saxon/Norman) re-enactors generally use the word wimple for a 
single piece headcovering that wraps and drapes round head and 
shoulders, while 14th/15th century types use it for the specific item 
covering the neck, worn with a separate veil.  Someone asked for 
instructions for one, and got instructions for the other, which made no 
sense to them at all!

Jean


Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote
>I've run into something similar, recently, with a current re-using of the
>word "wimple" to describe a knitted thing ranging from a simple, oversized
>tube that functions a bit like the turtlenecked part on a turtleneck sweater
>(except that you can pull it up over your head, leaving your face exposed,
>for warmth), or a hooded cowl, built similarly to a medieval hood with cowl
>(although missing the liripipe).  It always causes this momentary "huh?"
>with me, because I'm most familiar with the word as used to refer to the
>woven/linen medieval women's item frequently paired with a veil. ;o)
>--sue
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 4:22 AM
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tippets
>
>
>>
>> >I have found very little info so far on tippets and how they were made.
>>
>> I have encountered things called tippets in several different centuries.
>I
>> had to read a couple of sentences to realize you were talking SCA-period
>> tippets, instead of, say, Georgian ones.
>>
>>         CarolynKayta Barrows
>> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>>           www.FunStuft.com
>>
>>               //// \\\
>>              ////-@@\\\
>>             ((((   7 )))
>>              (((  <> ))))
>>                 )   ((((((
>>            /----\   /---\))
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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On Mon, 10 Oct 2005, Jean Waddie wrote:

> I recently had to straighten out a confusion, because Early Medieval
> (Viking/Saxon/Norman) re-enactors generally use the word wimple for a
> single piece headcovering that wraps and drapes round head and
> shoulders, while 14th/15th century types use it for the specific item
> covering the neck, worn with a separate veil.  Someone asked for
> instructions for one, and got instructions for the other, which made
> no sense to them at all!

I bumped into this very difference when editing an article by my
colleague, Gale Owen-Crocker, who works on Anglo-Saxon dress. My
experience is mostly in 14th c. We used the word differently, just as you
descibed, and went round and round for a while till we sorted it out.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] source for 1700-1710 Mantua
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In a message dated 10/10/2005 1:41:06 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dawn@reddawn.net writes:

>  Vol. 1, 1660-1860 Pages 70 and 71.

Ah, thanks. Arnold was the first  place I checked


I must add, that it is [painfully] obvious from her pattern this gown was  
draped on a body or mannequin. No one would flat pattern anything and come up  
with such a pattern.
If you can find the Jean Hunnisett book, she has refined the basics of  the 
draped pattern to a very managable flat pattern [and you still have to drape  a 
lot]. It may not be accurate but....even if you go with the totally draped  
route...her ideas and directions are very informative and  helpful.
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From: traci@crimsonvision.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian Costume pattern
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2005 19:54:08 +0000
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www.trulyvictorian.com

You'll have to order from their site but I think teir victorian patterns are the most beautiful and easy to use out there.

Traci

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> Greetings everyone, 
> 
> I'm asking this question for my future mother-in-law. She was chosen to be 
> on stage for a holiday concert and needs to sew a Victorian gown. Of all of the 
> mainstream pattern companies, which one would you choose to use for a project 
> like this? Thanks for any assistance. 
> 
> Roscelin 
> _______________________________________________ 
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Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2005 13:04:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian Costume pattern
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> Greetings everyone,
>
>    I'm asking this question for my future mother-in-law.  She was chosen
> to be on stage for a holiday concert and needs to sew a Victorian gown.
>  Of all of the mainstream pattern companies, which one would you choose
> to use for a project like this?  Thanks for any assistance.

It depends on the true time frame...."Victorian" covers around 50 years of
fashion.  For later 1870's and later, Truly Victorian has nice patterns
that I hear are good.

For 1850's & 1860's there are a few out there but I don't know which ones
are good.  One of the major pattern companies has a good historical
pattern for 1850's by Martha McCain.  There are also patterns for the
corset and petticoats.  Try the reviews on this website:

http://www.gbacg.org/Patterns/index.html

These are reviews of different patterns by people in my local Costumer's
Guild.  They might give you some good insight....

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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From: Jacqueline Johnson <kristalori@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian Costume pattern
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Well if you want "mainstream" I had a fairly easy time with any of
Simplicity's historical patterns. If you want still easy yet a bit more
accurate I'd suggest trulyvictorian.net <http://trulyvictorian.net> or
pastpatterns.com <http://pastpatterns.com> I also have had super ease with
lafnmoon.com <http://lafnmoon.com> 's new patterns.

bice

>
> > Greetings everyone,
> >
> > I'm asking this question for my future mother-in-law. She was chosen to
> be
> > on stage for a holiday concert and needs to sew a Victorian gown. Of all
> of the
> > mainstream pattern companies, which one would you choose to use for a
> project
> > like this? Thanks for any assistance.
> >
> > Roscelin
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> _______________________________________________
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Greetings everyone,

   I'm asking this question for my future mother-in-law.  She was chosen to be on stage for a holiday concert and needs to sew a Victorian gown.  Of all of the mainstream pattern companies, which one would you choose to use for a project like this?  Thanks for any assistance.

Roscelin
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] KWCS report?
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So, can someone who went to KWCS in Kansas this weekend tell us how it
went?

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian Costume pattern
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roscelinlimoges@comcast.net wrote:

> Greetings everyone,
> 
>    I'm asking this question for my future mother-in-law.  She was chosen to be on stage for a holiday concert and needs to sew a Victorian gown.  Of all of the mainstream pattern companies, which one would you choose to use for a project like this?  Thanks for any assistance.
> 

That would depend on which part of the "Victorian" period she wanted to 
represent. 1837-1901 is a BIG chunk of time and fashion. :)

Simplicity generally covers the American Civil War years well. 1861-65. 
I have used the men's patterns and found them to be very detailed, and 
quite  a bit of work. They also have two later dresses 1870-1880 ish, 
and an earlier pattern for 'Dickens carolers' (~1840) which are more 
'costume' than reproduction.

McCall's has a couple Civil War style ball gowns. Butterick's got a big 
hoop-skirt dress and a slimmer 1870ish dress. Again, these are more 
'costume' patterns than clothing reproductions, but they could work well 
for stage without being too much fuss.


Dawn



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Past Patterns are very good, their URL is www.pastpatterns.com.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books of Victorian and Edwardian Patterns
http://www.lavoltapress.com

roscelinlimoges@comcast.net wrote:

>Greetings everyone,
>
>   I'm asking this question for my future mother-in-law.  She was chosen to be on stage for a holiday concert and needs to sew a Victorian gown.  Of all of the mainstream pattern companies, which one would you choose to use for a project like this?  Thanks for any assistance.
>
>Roscelin
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>  
>
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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] KWCS report?
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Robin Netherton wrote:

> So, can someone who went to KWCS in Kansas this weekend tell us how it
> went?

I had fun. I thought it was worth the entrance fee (and the two hour 
drive) , and I learned something in every class. There was a bit of a 
crush at registration, and somehow I missed the costume show after lunch 
(they started on time, who expected that?) I thought there was a good 
selection of vendors, a lot better quality merchandise than I recall 
seeing at any SCA event from back when I was playing regularly.

Let's see, I took a men's medieval wear class and Kass McGann's Irish 
class Saturday, missed Marc Carlson's shoe class as a result :(.  Sat in 
a good class on early Spanish men's wear, and one on Russian women's 
clothing and then there was the long drive home.

Sunday it was the Historic Replicas class, and somehow I missed the 
German clothing class after that, and went to another early Spanish one. 
  The pleatwork embroidery lecture that afternoon was pretty well 
researched, I thought, some real interesting material. The last two 
hours were kind of a bust, I didn't think much of either class, so I 
won't mention what they were. Likely the teachers were as tired as I was.

I bought some buttons and some silk for the stash.

Anyone know where next years event is going to be?



Dawn


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Victorian Costume pattern
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2005 15:29:17 -0500
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Address correction -
http://trulyvictorian.netfirms.com/
and thanks for the sites Bice
De

-----Original Message-----
Well if you want "mainstream" I had a fairly easy time with any of
Simplicity's historical patterns. If you want still easy yet a bit more
accurate I'd suggest trulyvictorian.net <http://trulyvictorian.net> or
pastpatterns.com <http://pastpatterns.com> I also have had super ease with
lafnmoon.com <http://lafnmoon.com> 's new patterns.

bice


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Victorian Costume pattern
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2005 15:29:14 -0500
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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Status: RO

What part of the Victorian era is she representing? McCalls and
Butterick carry patterns that have the general line and pretty modern
cut if she is just after the look, especially the 1840's-60's "Dickens'
Christmas Carol"

If she wants 1850's-1865 and to be authentic in cut, go for the Martha
McCain patterns for Simplicity that also include chemise, petticoat and
hoopskirt patterns. Certainly not simple, but if she is also interested
in reinacting or just a history buff, it might be worth the work. All
three companies carry 1870-ish bustle back dress patterns. Butterick
also has some Belle Epoque 1890-1905 pretty authentic-looking patterns
in their "Making History series.

Also, she'll want to fit in with the rest of the cast, unless she is
doing a solo turn, so what is everyone wearing?

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 3:13 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian Costume pattern

roscelinlimoges@comcast.net wrote:

> Greetings everyone,
> 
>    I'm asking this question for my future mother-in-law.  She was
chosen to be on stage for a holiday concert and needs to sew a Victorian
gown.  Of all of the mainstream pattern companies, which one would you
choose to use for a project like this?  Thanks for any assistance.
> 

That would depend on which part of the "Victorian" period she wanted to
represent. 1837-1901 is a BIG chunk of time and fashion. :)

Simplicity generally covers the American Civil War years well. 1861-65. 
I have used the men's patterns and found them to be very detailed, and
quite  a bit of work. They also have two later dresses 1870-1880 ish,
and an earlier pattern for 'Dickens carolers' (~1840) which are more
'costume' than reproduction.

McCall's has a couple Civil War style ball gowns. Butterick's got a big
hoop-skirt dress and a slimmer 1870ish dress. Again, these are more
'costume' patterns than clothing reproductions, but they could work well
for stage without being too much fuss.


Dawn



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian Costume pattern
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I have heard nothing but good stuff about their patterns--check reviews 
here:
http://www.gbacg.org/Patterns/tv.htm

-E House

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <traci@crimsonvision.net>
> www.trulyvictorian.com
> You'll have to order from their site but I think teir victorian patterns 
> are the most beautiful and easy to use out there.

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From: Jacqueline Johnson <kristalori@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian Costume pattern
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No problem. I have a few more pattern companies that do victorian someplace
if anyone wants them.
Bice

On 10/10/05, otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
>
> Address correction -
> http://trulyvictorian.netfirms.com/
> and thanks for the sites Bice
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Well if you want "mainstream" I had a fairly easy time with any of
> Simplicity's historical patterns. If you want still easy yet a bit more
> accurate I'd suggest trulyvictorian.net <http://trulyvictorian.net> <
> http://trulyvictorian.net> or
> pastpatterns.com <http://pastpatterns.com> <http://pastpatterns.com> I
> also have had super ease with
> lafnmoon.com <http://lafnmoon.com> <http://lafnmoon.com> 's new patterns.
>
> bice
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian Costume pattern
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Bice, it's always good to have options. Please post if you would.

Thanks,
LynnD

On 10/10/05, Jacqueline Johnson <kristalori@gmail.com> wrote:
> No problem. I have a few more pattern companies that do victorian someplace
> if anyone wants them.
> Bice
>
> On 10/10/05, otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
> >
> > Address correction -
> > http://trulyvictorian.netfirms.com/
> > and thanks for the sites Bice
> > De
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > Well if you want "mainstream" I had a fairly easy time with any of
> > Simplicity's historical patterns. If you want still easy yet a bit more
> > accurate I'd suggest trulyvictorian.net <http://trulyvictorian.net> <
> > http://trulyvictorian.net> or
> > pastpatterns.com <http://pastpatterns.com> <http://pastpatterns.com> I
> > also have had super ease with
> > lafnmoon.com <http://lafnmoon.com> <http://lafnmoon.com> 's new patterns.
> >
> > bice
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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I have a links page for my own use but some of the links on it are not all
too appropriate. So let me make up a new page that is G rated.

Bice

On 10/10/05, Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Bice, it's always good to have options. Please post if you would.
>
> Thanks,
> LynnD
>
> On 10/10/05, Jacqueline Johnson <kristalori@gmail.com> wrote:
> > No problem. I have a few more pattern companies that do victorian
> someplace
> > if anyone wants them.
> > Bice
>
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I made the page and hopefully there are some peole haven't seen. They are
fairly well organized although this is a bare basics page. If I get time
I'll arrange it a bit better this week.

http://snipurl.com/icz2

Bice
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian Costume pattern
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On Monday 10 October 2005 4:04 pm, Diana Habra wrote:
> > Greetings everyone,
> >
> >    I'm asking this question for my future mother-in-law.  She was chosen
> > to be on stage for a holiday concert and needs to sew a Victorian gown.
> >  Of all of the mainstream pattern companies, which one would you choose
> > to use for a project like this?  Thanks for any assistance.
>
> It depends on the true time frame...."Victorian" covers around 50 years of
> fashion.  For later 1870's and later, Truly Victorian has nice patterns
> that I hear are good.

Truly Victorian actually has a few patterns for 1850s and 1860s, though I 
admit the only ones I've tried are for the later years.  If you're 
interested, go to www.trulyvictorian.com and check out their line--it's 
organized by time period.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"As a general rule, if end users want to smash something repeatedly
with a sledgehammer, that's a sign of bad UI."--Bram Cohen
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> The English mantua you refer to is in a book
> called "18th Century Women's Costume at Blaise
> Castle House" by Helen Burnett and Cleo Witt.
> Printed by Bristol City Museum. However, the
> mantua is dated c.1738-41. It still has its matching petticoat.

I just found my livejournal with my list of extant early mantua (as opposed
to the very stylised later mantua) and found the book I had seen it in:
http://www.livejournal.com/users/pinkdiamond/334570.html
Title: Women's costumes 1600-1750, [by] Zillah Halls.
Published: London, H.M.S.O., 1969.
Other Author(s): Halls, Zillah.
I didn't manage to snaffle the date of the mantua but I can read the date of
the stomacher as being 1720-30. The petticoat looks to be a quilted tube
basically.
The text I can make out says:
"... open robe worn over a separate corset and separate skirt was
established. The elaborately-arranged skirt, pinned or buttoned back, is
occasionally though not frequently found throughout the first half of the
18th century; there are four examples in the London Museum."
(view of the back of the mantua and petticoat)
"13 stomacher 1720-30, (no.[??])
The stomacher was a separate triangular piece, usually embroidered, which
filled the space in the front of the bodice."
(view of the front of the Mantua, pettcoat and stomacher.

I adore this example. It's so very simple but effective. The stomacher has a
fine pattern embroidered with horizontal lines.



Unfortunately the image on the Sally Queen and Associates page has gone, I
think it is in the 2000 calendar. I'm going to email to ask if this is so. I
seem to recall it being in the colletcion of the Royal Ontaria Museum, but
there is no info on their site.


regards,
michaela de bruce
http://costumes.glittersweet.com



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michaela wrote:

> 
> I just found my livejournal with my list of extant early mantua (as opposed
> to the very stylised later mantua) and found the book I had seen it in:
> http://www.livejournal.com/users/pinkdiamond/334570.html

Ooooh, more pictures, thank you!

> 
> Unfortunately the image on the Sally Queen and Associates page has gone, I
> think it is in the 2000 calendar.

It is , I have just checked. Also the blue one from LA (?) is in the 
1998 calendar.



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] source for 1700-1710 Mantua
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> > I just found my livejournal with my list of extant early mantua (as
opposed
> > to the very stylised later mantua) and found the book I had seen it in:
> > http://www.livejournal.com/users/pinkdiamond/334570.html
>
> Ooooh, more pictures, thank you!

No worries:) I've been on a break from studying this style as I've been
emersed in the start of the 20thC for a show I'm in and have been working on
costumes from the same period. But I have been planning on making either a
plain wool one (oooohhh my mauve wool flannel....) or one from my scads of
green velveteen;)

There are a few other items from the same time that I found but haven't put
into my "memories" on my lj.

> > Unfortunately the image on the Sally Queen and Associates page has gone,
I
> > think it is in the 2000 calendar.
>
> It is , I have just checked. Also the blue one from LA (?) is in the
> 1998 calendar.

Oooh, do you have any info on the mantua in the SQ&A calendar? I'd love to
know more before bombarding museums with questions;)

If you look in my memories section of my lj, you'll find a section for
mantua and related dress of the time.
http://www.livejournal.com/tools/memories.bml?user=pinkdiamond

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] source for 1700-1710 Mantua
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michaela wrote:

> 
> Oooh, do you have any info on the mantua in the SQ&A calendar? I'd love to
> know more before bombarding museums with questions;)

The 2000 calendar says it's in the ROM, Toronto: "Mantua, early 1700, 
English or Dutch. Silk damask woven with exotic foliate motif. Museum 
purchase."

also: "The damask mantua is one of the handful extant, and is cut with 
the sleeves and gown in one piece. It employs the full width of the 
cloth, and is fitted with pleats and tucks over the shoulders and centre 
back. The long train is draped up at each side to reveal the reverse of 
the fabric. "



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] source for 1700-1710 Mantua
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Hi Michaela

I have the pattern cut for this mantua also if you are interrested. From the 
small catalogue womens fashion from 1600 1750. I baught this many years ago 
on Victoria & Albert, my very first visit to London.
Let me know if i can help you with this.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2005 2:51 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] source for 1700-1710 Mantua


>> The English mantua you refer to is in a book
>> called "18th Century Women's Costume at Blaise
>> Castle House" by Helen Burnett and Cleo Witt.
>> Printed by Bristol City Museum. However, the
>> mantua is dated c.1738-41. It still has its matching petticoat.
>
> I just found my livejournal with my list of extant early mantua (as 
> opposed
> to the very stylised later mantua) and found the book I had seen it in:
> http://www.livejournal.com/users/pinkdiamond/334570.html
> Title: Women's costumes 1600-1750, [by] Zillah Halls.
> Published: London, H.M.S.O., 1969.
> Other Author(s): Halls, Zillah.
> I didn't manage to snaffle the date of the mantua but I can read the date 
> of
> the stomacher as being 1720-30. The petticoat looks to be a quilted tube
> basically.
> The text I can make out says:
> "... open robe worn over a separate corset and separate skirt was
> established. The elaborately-arranged skirt, pinned or buttoned back, is
> occasionally though not frequently found throughout the first half of the
> 18th century; there are four examples in the London Museum."
> (view of the back of the mantua and petticoat)
> "13 stomacher 1720-30, (no.[??])
> The stomacher was a separate triangular piece, usually embroidered, which
> filled the space in the front of the bodice."
> (view of the front of the Mantua, pettcoat and stomacher.
>
> I adore this example. It's so very simple but effective. The stomacher has 
> a
> fine pattern embroidered with horizontal lines.
>
>
>
> Unfortunately the image on the Sally Queen and Associates page has gone, I
> think it is in the 2000 calendar. I'm going to email to ask if this is so. 
> I
> seem to recall it being in the colletcion of the Royal Ontaria Museum, but
> there is no info on their site.
>
>
> regards,
> michaela de bruce
> http://costumes.glittersweet.com
>
>
>
> -- 
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> 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Oct 12 12:39:31 2005
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: KWCS report?
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So, can someone who went to KWCS in Kansas this weekend tell us how it
went?

--Robin
=========================================
 
I went with Dawn, and I had a blast. I got to do Marc Carlson's shoe demo, which was awesome. Not that I'll ever attempt to make a medieval shoe, mind you, but his class was great and the shoes he had as examples were beautiful. And now I know what grave wax is. :)
 
I took Kass McGann's German class, which was very entertaining and informative. I'm a complete newbie to German clothes, so some of it was a little over my head, but it was worthwhile anyway. And I absolutely couldn't believe it when Dawn told me Kass had done all the cutwork on her costume by hand. Totally droolworthy.
 
Later that afternoon I was in the other German class. I can't remember the instructor's name but she said she used to be a member of this list. She disagreed with some of Kass's conclusions, but she had several really cool books to look at and reconstructions of her version of the famous Cranach dress. 
 
And finally, the pleatwork class was really great. She should write a book. Someone on this list was asking about pleated smocks a few months ago -- something about the way the sleeves were placed so there wasn't a shoulder seam but the torso part was pleated into the neck. Whoever that was, e-mail me, and I'll give you the contact info for the teacher of this class, because she had documentation of what you were talking about. 

Tea Rose
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From: Marie Stewart <maricelt@gmail.com>
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Sounds like it was well worth the trip.  Thank you for sharing.  If I
may ask... would you also share the pleat work contact information...
I don't want to swamp the poor lady ; > but I would love to see what
she has found.

Many thanks,
Mari / Bridgette

>
> And finally, the pleatwork class was really great. She should write a book. Someone on this list was asking about pleated smocks a few months ago -- something about the way the sleeves were placed so there wasn't a shoulder seam but the torso part was pleated into the neck. Whoever that was, e-mail me, and I'll give you the contact info for the teacher of this class, because she had documentation of what you were talking about.

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Subject: [h-cost] OT-Dying in a front end loader...?
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Anyone have any experience with this?  My top loader washing machine is 
about to croak.  I live in the desert and would like to go with a more 
water efficient machine.  Some have suggested just keeping my old one 
for dying, but that will only last for so long.

Sg
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT-Dying in a front end loader...?
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>From everything I've read front loader use a lot less water.  We are thinking of getting one so we can reduce our water bill.  The one where I work appears to use less water.  They do an excellent job of washing the clothes and have been around long enough that all the bugs are out of them.  I want mine on a 6" stand though as I have trouble bending down that far all the time.
 
Brin Kendall

WickedFrau <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote:
Anyone have any experience with this? My top loader washing machine is 
about to croak. I live in the desert and would like to go with a more 
water efficient machine. Some have suggested just keeping my old one 
for dying, but that will only last for so long.

Sg
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Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 14:37:50 -0500
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Well, I went and had a lot of fun.  I have some pictures online at my blog 
at http://www.livejournal.com/users/marccarlson/  (under 11 October) -- I'll 
put some more up when I get the other rolls developed Friday.  (And yes, I 
have a blog, I had to get the account - long story, and as long as I have it 
I might as well use it).

I have now gotten to meet Kass face to face, which was nice since we've 
intermittantly corresponded for years (we'd been at MTA one year at the same 
time, but didn't know who the other was).

There were some good classes, most of which I didn't take :)  I was out 
taking pictures.  My wife's been really excited by the tablet woven edging 
and has been whipping through things right and left.

Well worth the trip.

Marc


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Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 16:19:57 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: "J.E. Marshall" <jemarshall@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cleveland?
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well, I am in Cincinnati, the opposite corner of the state from Cleveland, 
but the Hungarian Heritage Museum downtown is worth a walk through.  They 
have some excellent folk costumes on display.

Jennifer
At 07:58 PM 10/8/05 -0400, you wrote:



>Hi!  I'm in Canton, 60 miles south.  Cleveland is in the Barony of
>the Cleftlands - they are big & quite active.  Huge public library
>system, one of the best museums in the country, universities all over
>the place - LOTS of research opportunities!
>
>Maria


what would you attempt to do if you knew you could not fail?  Anon.

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Yep, done it in a Kenmore high-capacity front loader with linen using 
Dylon machine dye from the UK.
Worked great.

liz young

WickedFrau wrote:
> Anyone have any experience with this?  My top loader washing machine is 
> about to croak.  I live in the desert and would like to go with a more 
> water efficient machine.  Some have suggested just keeping my old one 
> for dying, but that will only last for so long.
> 
> Sg
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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Elizabeth Young wrote:

> Yep, done it in a Kenmore high-capacity front loader with linen using 
> Dylon machine dye from the UK.
> Worked great.

I've done it with regular Dylon dye; worked great.  I put the dye & 
other additives in first, let it roll for a minute or two to mix, then 
put in the clothes.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"Then to the King's Theatre, where we saw "Midsummer's Night's Dream," 
which I had never seen before, nor shall ever again, for it is the most 
insipid ridiculous play that ever I saw in my life." -- Samuel Pepys, 1662
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Start shopping now as washer will most likely die when you least expect
it. Unless it is an old reliable thing and you have a relative,
neighbor, connection that can fix it for much less than the cost of a
new machine... Perhaps Consumer Reports has some online comparisons for
washers for quality and reliability, but probably you will want to just
go out and price compare. Of course, today's models all have efficiency
tags--how much power/water used. My little top loader(18 lbs capacity)
is 15 years old and I only do a few loads a week, but I got a great deal
on it because it was a overmanufactured mustard yellow body made for the
European market with American market insides. I didn't want to take a
chance on a used washer.  I haven't had a problem with it ... Yet. I do
hope it lasts until the new landlord installs new pay washers and dryers
. Colored washer and dryer sets are all the thing now, but you might be
able to pick up a discontinued plain white model with a better quality
for the same money.

If you have two connections, by all means keep the old one for
dyeing(wish I could do that) 

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of WickedFrau
Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2005 1:18 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] OT-Dying in a front end loader...?

Anyone have any experience with this?  My top loader washing machine is
about to croak.  I live in the desert and would like to go with a more
water efficient machine.  Some have suggested just keeping my old one
for dying, but that will only last for so long.

Sg
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT-Dying in a front end loader...?
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