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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] a holiday idea
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I'm interested. 
But I would probably have to make sure that I mailed it no later than the very beginning of December - living on the other side of the world from most of our fellow listers combined with the Christmas postal rush could make its' timely arrival chancy, otherwise. ( And may still do, regardless. ;-P )

Joannah ( in Australia )

--- Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:

From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Oct 2005 14:35:38 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] a holiday idea

Is there any interest among listmembers for a holiday gift exchange? I 
envision it working something like this: folks sign up with their name, 
address, and a 'favorite' (color, period, animal, technique).  Each 
participant receives the name of another participant and is then charged 
with buying or making a small ($10 -ish) gift and sending it to that 
person by Dec. 20th.

I'm willing to coordinate, of course. :)



Dawn
wet, windy and cold in KC



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In a message dated 10/31/2005 8:07:29 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
kahlara@yahoo.com writes:

Anyone  have any suggestions where else I could look, or know of a specific 
pattern I  may have over looked?



Have you looked at Kwik Sew patterns?
 
Ann Wass
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In a message dated 11/1/2005 5:44:16 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
AnnBWass@aol.com writes:

Have you  looked at Kwik Sew patterns?



Their website is:
_www.kwiksew.com_ (http://www.kwiksew.com) 
 
Look at pattern 3150. 
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Planning my first Tudor, need feedback on my plan
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>> And finally, one of my new favorites:
>> http://www.photo.rmn.fr/
>> The search utility here isn't anywhere near as good as bildindex's, but 
>> it's got a lot of great paintings.  Click 'recherche' at the top to do a 
>> search. The dating info on this website makes it hard to pick a date 
>> range, but if you're patient you'll find some great paintings.  Of 
>> course, the paintings are largely French, but you can get some useful 
>> details nonetheless; the French hoods, if nothing else, are very similar 
>> to what was worn in England. I'd suggest doing a search for Corneille de 
>> Lyon (you'll get an option of him or of his atelier; look at both) as 
>> you'll find some great, detailed portraits from around the right time 
>> period.
>>
>> Hope this helps.
>>
>> -E House

Thanks for this link! I've been putting off working on  French hood for a 
while now---I had a sudden attack of laziness!-but I find it verrrry 
interesting (said in best Arte Johnson voice) that the painting of Catherine 
de Medici clearly shows a narrow white strap holding on her hood. My hair is 
very soft and slippery, and normally trying to keep on a hat of any kind 
drives me nuts and makes me cranky, so anything that makes it easier is 
welcome.

Dianne
back to look at more pictures!

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Can someone point me in the way of needlework history of the development of crochet? Warren and Pullan indicate that it was used in ancient times by shepherds as a means of converting sheared wool into garments.  Other references I have turned up  give notice to tambour work, guipuire Maltese laces and such.  Is there any direct documented use of this form of lace making in the 18th C?  In any case, it seems to relate to more primitive and coarse lace work.
Comments?

Kathleen
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] crochet pattern needed - modern (O.T. sorta)
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Kathleen's recent mail has reminded me that I would love a pattern 
for one of those crochet hats that are so fashionable. Here they are 
in heavy "wool" with a cap back part, and a brim, like a butcher boy 
cap, or what we used to call in the 60's  (God I'm old!) a Donovan 
cap, or like you see in Dickens costume dramas on Oliver Twist and so 
on. Anybody any ideas?

Suzi


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] crochet
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At 06:07 AM 11/1/2005, you wrote:
>Can someone point me in the way of needlework history of the 
>development of crochet? Warren and Pullan indicate that it was used 
>in ancient times by shepherds as a means of converting sheared wool 
>into garments.  Other references I have turned up  give notice to 
>tambour work, guipuire Maltese laces and such.  Is there any direct 
>documented use of this form of lace making in the 18th C?  In any 
>case, it seems to relate to more primitive and coarse lace work.
>Comments?
>
>Kathleen

This subject has come up numerous times (and on other lists) over the 
years.  Unfortunately, the earliest evidence I've ever seen for 
crochet is sometime in the 1820s.  There are no surviving examples 
that pre-date the 19th century.  It was popular during the mid-late 
19th century to claim ancient roots for many forms of needlework; 
Warren and Pullan are not credible historic sources.  What has been 
claimed to be crochet from "ancient times" has turned out to be 
naalbinding, which can have a superficial resemblance to crochet or 
knitting but is made in an entirely different fashion.

The earliest patterns I have found are for fine thread work done in 
imitation of more expensive lace.  By the 1850s patterns were 
available for wool work for hats, mittens, vests, and shawls.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Subject: [h-cost] 18th century breeches question
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I'm looking for some basic suggestions.   I have a really great pair of what 
look like 18th century breeches - I say "look like" since there are some 
minor details that were left out in the construction (like pockets).  When 
my wife made them, she made them from a nice heavy linen, and they fit 
great.  They do all the shifting and such needed so I can squat and sit 
comfortably and even wrap  my knees behind my head without them binding 
(assuming I could actually *get* my knees behind my head...)   My problem is 
that as the linen warms up, it loosesn up a bit, and I can't tie them 
tightly enough to actually stay on (which can be somewhat embarassing).

I'm assuming that something needs to be done to the waistband area to keep 
them up, but what?  I may have to go with the suspenders idea, which is 
possible for that period, but I'd like to resove the problem really since I 
don't know what late 19th century suspenders look like.

Thoughts?

Marc


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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At 15:00 01/11/2005, you wrote:
>I'm looking for some basic suggestions.   I have a really great pair 
>of what look like 18th century breeches - I say "look like" since 
>there are some minor details that were left out in the construction 
>(like pockets).  When my wife made them, she made them from a nice 
>heavy linen, and they fit great.  They do all the shifting and such 
>needed so I can squat and sit comfortably and even wrap  my knees 
>behind my head without them binding (assuming I could actually *get* 
>my knees behind my head...)   My problem is that as the linen warms 
>up, it loosesn up a bit, and I can't tie them tightly enough to 
>actually stay on (which can be somewhat embarassing).
>
>I'm assuming that something needs to be done to the waistband area 
>to keep them up, but what?  I may have to go with the suspenders 
>idea, which is possible for that period, but I'd like to resove the 
>problem really since I don't know what late 19th century suspenders look like.


Can you split the back seam about 6", fold it back to make the 
opening a little wider, then add lacing? This is contemporary with 
18th century breeches, and can be seen in several original pairs that 
I have had the opportunity to look at. I do it with all my 18th 
century breeches as it allows for both "fat" and "thin" days.

Suzi
(who's just making two such pairs of breeches.) 


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Date: Tue, 01 Nov 2005 10:12:49 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: Bronzino (was Re: [h-cost] knit jacket was Re: Moda
	aFirenze1540-1580
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 Most late period sleeves tied or buttoned into the armhole. That puffy
(shirred) sleeve is attached to the gown, the undersleeve ties under it at
the armhole. It is a practical consideration also. A woman could have a
"new" gown with the addition of a pair of sleeves!

BTW-- I've done this gown (gown: black wool and sleeves:maroon wool) The
sleeves have mega pieces...

Yes, Luara was a very famous poet, married to a famous architect who worked
for Duke Cosimo I de Medici of Florence.
Dame Catriona MacDuff

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Susan B. Farmer
Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2005 12:44 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: Bronzino (was Re: [h-cost] knit jacket was Re: Moda
aFirenze1540-1580


Quoting monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>:

> The lower sleeves are deep maroon in most of the repros I have seen. It is
> funny that so many color reproductions vary in quality from place to
place.
> Anybody ever see the real portrait up close and personal? And BTW, the
lower
> sleeves (which tie into the armhole BTW, on the Lucrezia Panciatichi  gown
> are eggplant purple (aubergine). Makes for the possibility of interesting
> color combos for costumers who do early 16th C. Florentine...
> Dame Catriona MacDuff
>

I knew that Laura's gown was brown and black (did you know that she was
a Famous Poet?) -- but how can you tell that the maroon lower sleeves
on Lucrezia's gown tie into the armhole?

Jerusha, the sleeve junkie
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century breeches question
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2005 16:17:06 +0100
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Hi Marc,
Yes i will confirm what Suzi said. Split up the back seam, and make it about 
1 inch smaller, 1/2 inch each side. Also split up the center back of the 
linning, and make lace holes in each side.
I have this in all my  period breeches!

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Marc Carlson" <marccarlson20@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2005 4:00 PM
Subject: [h-cost] 18th century breeches question


> I'm looking for some basic suggestions.   I have a really great pair of 
> what look like 18th century breeches - I say "look like" since there are 
> some minor details that were left out in the construction (like pockets). 
> When my wife made them, she made them from a nice heavy linen, and they 
> fit great.  They do all the shifting and such needed so I can squat and 
> sit comfortably and even wrap  my knees behind my head without them 
> binding (assuming I could actually *get* my knees behind my head...)   My 
> problem is that as the linen warms up, it loosesn up a bit, and I can't 
> tie them tightly enough to actually stay on (which can be somewhat 
> embarassing).
>
> I'm assuming that something needs to be done to the waistband area to keep 
> them up, but what?  I may have to go with the suspenders idea, which is 
> possible for that period, but I'd like to resove the problem really since 
> I don't know what late 19th century suspenders look like.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Marc
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Thai Silks is taking a survey to improve their website.  Since I'm 
constantly frustrated by the lack of information, the lack of good photos, 
and the inconvenience of their sample system, I'm hoping to get as many 
people as possible to fill out the survey so that they'll fix what annoys 
me. =}

http://www.digisurvey.com/login.php?u=thai&p=silks

Not affiliated, yada.

-E House 

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Last chance... sign-up ends today (Nov 1) at midnight EST.

You will have received a confirmation from me if you are "In". If you 
think you signed up and did not get a confirmation, check your junk 
email, and if necessary, re-send your address and introduction.

Everyone who is signed up will receive their exchange assignment on 
Wed., probably in the evening.



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century breeches question
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In a message dated 11/1/2005 10:17:37 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

Split up  the back seam, and make it about 
1 inch smaller, 1/2 inch each side. Also  split up the center back of the 
lining, and make lace holes in each  side.



And for future pairs, make the waistband in 2 pieces, with a seam at center  
back, where you an leave the opening, then put in the lace holes.
 
Ann Wass
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Hi Dawn,
 
Sorry for the very late post.  I'd love to participate and as for time periods, mine are Anglo-Saxon - Viking and 1870-1915.
 
Not sure what else you need from me. I must have inadvertantly deleted the 'e' that explained what info. you were specifically looking for. 
 
Chris G.

Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
Last chance... sign-up ends today (Nov 1) at midnight EST.

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Dawn


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Subject: [h-cost] ettiquite question
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Not quite costume question, but can anyone point me to a source that documents or refers to the social occasion of women leaving the dinnertable and retiring elsewhere while the men continue their after dinner conversations, etc?  I have always understood this was a Victorian convention but am now being told this was also the "Thing" in the 18th Century.  When did the post parandial begin?

Kathleen
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From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: Bronzino (was Re: [h-cost] knit jacket was Re:
	ModaaFirenze1540-1580
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Hmmm. Interesting! Thanks for the info on this, Kate.

Don't feel odd about the inarticulate noises... When I saw Eleonora of
Toledo's wedding portrait (The deep pink (crimson) gown) at the Philly art
Museum, after an hour of staring at it, I was trying to figure out a way to
take it home with me... :-)

And then there was the time that my friend Anna and I ammost got tossed out
of the Metropolitan Musueum of Art in NYC trying to see the back of the
leather fencing doublet that is on permanent display. Not a problem you
would think until you realize that it is displayed in a glass case against a
wall on a form... Sigh!  Why can't museum people learn to display clothing
correctly so it can be seen all the way around? (At least pit a mirror in
the back!)

Dame Catriona MacDuff

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Ailith Mackintosh
Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2005 6:34 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: Bronzino (was Re: [h-cost] knit jacket was Re:
ModaaFirenze1540-1580


I've seen the portrait!! It was the only reason that I made the 4 hour
drive. What an adventure! We nearly got sucked up by a tornado. The car
actually left the road for a brief period of time.

Last year the Detroit Museum of Art was one of the stops in an exhibition
featuring Medici art. She's nearly life-size and the bottom of the portrait
was less than 2 feet off of the floor. I was on my knees in front of it
making inarticulate sounds. The guards thought I'd lost my mind! ;-D

It's a really odd combination. Her gown is black. The bodice is black and
deep burgundy brocade; the upper sleeves and skirt are plain black. There's
no trace of any kind of pattern in either the upper sleeves or the skirt.
Her upper sleeves are ruched like those in the Panciatichi portrait. The
lower sleeves are the same deep burgundy color as in the brocade of the
bodice, though they are solid, not brocade.

kate


----- Original Message -----
From: "monica spence" <monicaspence@optonline.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2005 11:58 AM
Subject: RE: Bronzino (was Re: [h-cost] knit jacket was Re: Moda
aFirenze1540-1580


> The lower sleeves are deep maroon in most of the repros I have seen. It is
> funny that so many color reproductions vary in quality from place to
> place.
> Anybody ever see the real portrait up close and personal? And BTW, the
> lower
> sleeves (which tie into the armhole BTW, on the Lucrezia Panciatichi  gown
> are eggplant purple (aubergine). Makes for the possibility of interesting
> color combos for costumers who do early 16th C. Florentine...
> Dame Catriona MacDuff


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century breeches question
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That's similar to what I have to do with my ItalianRen dresses that are made
of linen.  I scootch up to a friend and get them to help me tighten the
bodice lacing (I can't reach).  Doesn't do much for the "drop" I've
experienced with the skirt, though, the times I've worn them in the summer,
and gotten them damp or wet, and had the skirt "grow" several inches....;o)
--Sue
----- Original Message -----
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2005 8:06 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century breeches question


> At 15:00 01/11/2005, you wrote:
> >I'm looking for some basic suggestions.   I have a really great pair
> >of what look like 18th century breeches - I say "look like" since
> >there are some minor details that were left out in the construction
> >(like pockets).  When my wife made them, she made them from a nice
> >heavy linen, and they fit great.  They do all the shifting and such
> >needed so I can squat and sit comfortably and even wrap  my knees
> >behind my head without them binding (assuming I could actually *get*
> >my knees behind my head...)   My problem is that as the linen warms
> >up, it loosesn up a bit, and I can't tie them tightly enough to
> >actually stay on (which can be somewhat embarassing).
> >
> >I'm assuming that something needs to be done to the waistband area
> >to keep them up, but what?  I may have to go with the suspenders
> >idea, which is possible for that period, but I'd like to resove the
> >problem really since I don't know what late 19th century suspenders look
like.
>
>
> Can you split the back seam about 6", fold it back to make the
> opening a little wider, then add lacing? This is contemporary with
> 18th century breeches, and can be seen in several original pairs that
> I have had the opportunity to look at. I do it with all my 18th
> century breeches as it allows for both "fat" and "thin" days.
>
> Suzi
> (who's just making two such pairs of breeches.)


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When the Medici exhibit was in Chicago, the Art Institute hired several of us frm Bristol's Guilde of St. George to do Italian Renaissance Court dances (in full kit of course) as part of the entertaining for the gala opening. After our performances were done, we all got to go thru the exhibit- after the paying patrons but before most of the public. Of course we were all fascinated by the portrait of Elenora and her son and we were all clustered around it cooing and ahhing over all the details we could finally see. After a few minutes I noticed that the gallery was very quiet and I realized that all the patrons had moved back against the opposite wall and were standing there watching us with rapt attention. I also realized that we must have made just the most incredible picture ourselves- a group in full 16th century court dress, still partially in our characters, in the midst of all the 16th century objects. Wish I could have gotten video of it. 
 
 
Karen
Seamstrix

-- monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net> wrote:
Hmmm. Interesting! Thanks for the info on this, Kate.

Don't feel odd about the inarticulate noises... When I saw Eleonora of
Toledo's wedding portrait (The deep pink (crimson) gown) at the Philly art
Museum, after an hour of staring at it, I was trying to figure out a way to
take it home with me... :-)

And then there was the time that my friend Anna and I ammost got tossed out
of the Metropolitan Musueum of Art in NYC trying to see the back of the
leather fencing doublet that is on permanent display. Not a problem you
would think until you realize that it is displayed in a glass case against a
wall on a form... Sigh!  Why can't museum people learn to display clothing
correctly so it can be seen all the way around? (At least pit a mirror in
the back!)

Dame Catriona MacDuff

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Ailith Mackintosh
Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2005 6:34 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: Bronzino (was Re: [h-cost] knit jacket was Re:
ModaaFirenze1540-1580


I've seen the portrait!! It was the only reason that I made the 4 hour
drive. What an adventure! We nearly got sucked up by a tornado. The car
actually left the road for a brief period of time.

Last year the Detroit Museum of Art was one of the stops in an exhibition
featuring Medici art. She's nearly life-size and the bottom of the portrait
was less than 2 feet off of the floor. I was on my knees in front of it
making inarticulate sounds. The guards thought I'd lost my mind! ;-D

It's a really odd combination. Her gown is black. The bodice is black and
deep burgundy brocade; the upper sleeves and skirt are plain black. There's
no trace of any kind of pattern in either the upper sleeves or the skirt.
Her upper sleeves are ruched like those in the Panciatichi portrait. The
lower sleeves are the same deep burgundy color as in the brocade of the
bodice, though they are solid, not brocade.

kate


----- Original Message -----
From: "monica spence" <monicaspence@optonline.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2005 11:58 AM
Subject: RE: Bronzino (was Re: [h-cost] knit jacket was Re: Moda
aFirenze1540-1580


> The lower sleeves are deep maroon in most of the repros I have seen. It is
> funny that so many color reproductions vary in quality from place to
> place.
> Anybody ever see the real portrait up close and personal? And BTW, the
> lower
> sleeves (which tie into the armhole BTW, on the Lucrezia Panciatichi  gown
> are eggplant purple (aubergine). Makes for the possibility of interesting
> color combos for costumers who do early 16th C. Florentine...
> Dame Catriona MacDuff


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: 18th century breeches question
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>From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
>Can you split the back seam about 6", fold it back to make the
>opening a little wider, then add lacing? This is contemporary with
>18th century breeches, and can be seen in several original pairs that
>I have had the opportunity to look at. I do it with all my 18th
>century breeches as it allows for both "fat" and "thin" days.

It's already split in back and tied.  I'm not sure if it's possible to alter 
the angle on the split to make it more snug, but it's possible that may be 
the only real answer.

Marc


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: 18th century breeches question
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At 21:40 01/11/2005, you wrote:
>>From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
>>Can you split the back seam about 6", fold it back to make the
>>opening a little wider, then add lacing? This is contemporary with
>>18th century breeches, and can be seen in several original pairs that
>>I have had the opportunity to look at. I do it with all my 18th
>>century breeches as it allows for both "fat" and "thin" days.
>
>It's already split in back and tied.  I'm not sure if it's possible 
>to alter the angle on the split to make it more snug, but it's 
>possible that may be the only real answer.


Do you have a buckle and strap arrangement as well as your tie? I 
feel sure I have seen a buckle and strap on the body of the breeches, 
not just the waist, but can't call to mind if they were a pair of 
court breeches from the 19th century, or a pair of 18th century.

Of course the cheating, 21st century way, would be to herringbone two 
pieces of elastic into the side waistbands, on the inside of course, 
and slightly smaller than the space they occupy, to give "grip" at the sides.

Or put a "sticky" lining, like velvet, suede or similar, on to the 
inside of the waistband, also to give grip.

Suzi


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How long is your shirt underneath? If it is as long as it might have 
been in period times it should also help anchor the breeches up. Is it 
cotton or linen? Linen has more gripping power than cotton IMO. And 
don't worry - my husband is slim and seems to have the same problem as 
you - I made another pair with a waistband that went up higher on the 
waist and that seems to be working for now, although I'm starting to 
think of suspenders.......
Regards, Aylwen Garden
http://www.regencyreproductions.com

On Wednesday, November 2, 2005, at 02:00  AM, Marc Carlson wrote:

> I'm looking for some basic suggestions.   I have a really great pair 
> of what look like 18th century breeches - I say "look like" since 
> there are some minor details that were left out in the construction 
> (like pockets).  When my wife made them, she made them from a nice 
> heavy linen, and they fit great.  They do all the shifting and such 
> needed so I can squat and sit comfortably and even wrap  my knees 
> behind my head without them binding (assuming I could actually *get* 
> my knees behind my head...)   My problem is that as the linen warms 
> up, it loosesn up a bit, and I can't tie them tightly enough to 
> actually stay on (which can be somewhat embarassing).
>
> I'm assuming that something needs to be done to the waistband area to 
> keep them up, but what?  I may have to go with the suspenders idea, 
> which is possible for that period, but I'd like to resove the problem 
> really since I don't know what late 19th century suspenders look like.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Marc
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: FW: [h-cost] Holiday Gift Exchange 
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Sorry to forward without permission but, it looked like some did not know
where to sign up.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2005 1:41 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Holiday Gift Exchange 

Welcome to the 2005 H-COST Holiday Gift Exchange.

Please DO NOT reply to the List. Please address all replies to me at 
Dawn@reddawn.net.

Please leave the H-COST header intact in your reply so your message does 
not end up in the spam-trap.


_What we're doing. _

We will be exchanging small costume and sewing related gifts with each 
other. To participate you must sign up (below). There are rules, so that 
everybody knows what is expected of them, but I want this to be fun so I 
am keeping the rules simple. If you want to participate, please read 
this entire message.

The Sign-up Deadline is November 1st. The Mailing Deadline is Dec.19th.


_The Rules._

1. You are responsible for completing your end of the exchange on time. 
Please be sure you can follow through on your committment.

2. Gifts should be sewing or costume related. Gifts may be hand-made for 
the recipient, or purchased, or may be items you already have. Gifts 
should be clean and in good condition and suitable for giving. You will 
be given guidelines to help you choose a gift for your recipient.

3. Gifts should be in the $10-$15 US range, and no more than that. (8-12 
euros). It's ok if you can get something on sale or make something from 
supplies you already have. Second-hand books in good condition are ok. 
We all know how many desireable but out-of-print titles are out there.

4. Plan to mail your gift in early to mid December. Remember that it 
will cost you postage on top of what you spent on the gift. Small and 
lightweight objects are generally cheaper to mail. If you are mailing 
overseas you may have to fill out a Customs Declaration.

5. After the sign-up period I will create a mailing list for all 
participants so that I can stay in touch with you and send reminders. 
Email should be addressed to me, or to this list and not to H-Cost.

6. Each person who joins will be randomly matched up with one person 
they will send a gift to. Additionally, someone else will send a gift to 
you. For example, Ann will send to Bob. Bob will send to Clara. Clara 
will send to Ann. This way each person will meet two H-Costumers by 
giving and receiving. You will know who you are sending to, but not who 
is sending to you.


_Join Now!_

1. To join you must send me your name and mailing address. Please reply 
to me at dawn@reddawn.net and NOT to the H-Cost list. The sign-up period 
ends November 1st.

2. Introduce yourself. Tell me a little bit about you, your family, your 
pets, what you do -- as much as you feel comfortable sharing. It's been 
suggested that you include your dress size.

3. Tell me some of your Favorite Things. What do you sew? What time 
period or place interests you? Is there a favorite technique or process 
that you enjoy? (weaving, dyeing, embroidery, etc.) Do you have a 
favorite color or theme?

4. If you live outside the US and know your Duty limit, please include 
it. If you are within the US and do not wish to mail to another country, 
please let me know.




I think that about covers it. If you have questions or concerns, please 
reply to me at dawn@reddawn.net and NOT to the H-Cost list.



Dawn


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Nov  1 22:05:39 2005
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Does anyone know how to make kick pleats on the back of a pirate coat?  Like 
the one Johnny Depp wore in Pirates of the Carribean?  The pleats look like 
they have alot of fabric but seem to lay smooth at the top where the pleats 
begin.  Any help would be much appreciated.


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I drafted my kickpleats from Norah Waugh's book "The Cut of Men's Clothes".
Regards, Aylwen Garden

http://www.regencyreproductions.com

YVONNE SCHNYDER wrote:

> Does anyone know how to make kick pleats on the back of a pirate 
> coat?  Like the one Johnny Depp wore in Pirates of the Carribean?  The 
> pleats look like they have alot of fabric but seem to lay smooth at 
> the top where the pleats begin.  Any help would be much appreciated.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Thanks! I appreciate it! :)


>From: A & J Garden <garden@earthlydelights.com.au>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kick pleats on 17th century pirate coat
>Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2005 14:42:19 +1100
>
>I drafted my kickpleats from Norah Waugh's book "The Cut of Men's Clothes".
>Regards, Aylwen Garden
>
>http://www.regencyreproductions.com
>
>YVONNE SCHNYDER wrote:
>
>>Does anyone know how to make kick pleats on the back of a pirate coat?  
>>Like the one Johnny Depp wore in Pirates of the Carribean?  The pleats 
>>look like they have alot of fabric but seem to lay smooth at the top where 
>>the pleats begin.  Any help would be much appreciated.
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>_______________________________________________
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>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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It looks something like this,

http://www.costumes.org/HISTORY/100pages/leloirX1.htm

find the pattern about 1/3 the way down the page, "Pattern for a 
Jutaucorps [sic] with pagoda sleeve"

Norah Waugh's book is a very good source. Expensive, but worth it.



Dawn


A & J Garden wrote:

> I drafted my kickpleats from Norah Waugh's book "The Cut of Men's Clothes".
> Regards, Aylwen Garden
> 
> http://www.regencyreproductions.com
> 
> YVONNE SCHNYDER wrote:
> 
>> Does anyone know how to make kick pleats on the back of a pirate 
>> coat?  Like the one Johnny Depp wore in Pirates of the Carribean?  The 
>> pleats look like they have alot of fabric but seem to lay smooth at 
>> the top where the pleats begin.  Any help would be much appreciated.
>>
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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I got my book as a remaindered library book - its the small hardback 
early edition - but everything inside is just the same.
I found another pattern online that has the fold lines marked - 
http://www.costumes.org/HISTORY/leloir/justaucorpspattern.jpg
Cheers, Aylwen


Dawn wrote:

> It looks something like this,
>
> http://www.costumes.org/HISTORY/100pages/leloirX1.htm
>
> find the pattern about 1/3 the way down the page, "Pattern for a 
> Jutaucorps [sic] with pagoda sleeve"
>
> Norah Waugh's book is a very good source. Expensive, but worth it.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> A & J Garden wrote:
>
>> I drafted my kickpleats from Norah Waugh's book "The Cut of Men's 
>> Clothes".
>> Regards, Aylwen Garden
>>
>> http://www.regencyreproductions.com
>>
>> YVONNE SCHNYDER wrote:
>>
>>> Does anyone know how to make kick pleats on the back of a pirate 
>>> coat?  Like the one Johnny Depp wore in Pirates of the Carribean?  
>>> The pleats look like they have alot of fabric but seem to lay smooth 
>>> at the top where the pleats begin.  Any help would be much appreciated.
>>>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
_______________________________________________
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Status: RO

Thanks Kim and Ann - that is perfect!
 
Annette M


>>Anyone have any suggestions where else I could look, or know of a specific 
>>pattern I may have over looked?
>
>
>
>Have you looked at Kwik Sew patterns?


		
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From: "YVONNE SCHNYDER" <vovvie@msn.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kick pleats on 17th century pirate coat
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Thanks so much!


>From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kick pleats on 17th century pirate coat
>Date: Tue, 01 Nov 2005 21:49:29 -0600
>
>It looks something like this,
>
>http://www.costumes.org/HISTORY/100pages/leloirX1.htm
>
>find the pattern about 1/3 the way down the page, "Pattern for a Jutaucorps 
>[sic] with pagoda sleeve"
>
>Norah Waugh's book is a very good source. Expensive, but worth it.
>
>
>
>Dawn
>
>
>A & J Garden wrote:
>
>>I drafted my kickpleats from Norah Waugh's book "The Cut of Men's 
>>Clothes".
>>Regards, Aylwen Garden
>>
>>http://www.regencyreproductions.com
>>
>>YVONNE SCHNYDER wrote:
>>
>>>Does anyone know how to make kick pleats on the back of a pirate coat?  
>>>Like the one Johnny Depp wore in Pirates of the Carribean?  The pleats 
>>>look like they have alot of fabric but seem to lay smooth at the top 
>>>where the pleats begin.  Any help would be much appreciated.
>>>
>_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kick pleats on 17th century pirate coat
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Hi,

I used that pattern for my Captain Jack Sparrow cotume.
And a pattern from I think Sinmplicity for the size.
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/18thcent/18man/Jack/Jack.html
It worked quite well.

A & J Garden wrote:

> I got my book as a remaindered library book - its the small hardback 
> early edition - but everything inside is just the same.
> I found another pattern online that has the fold lines marked - 
> http://www.costumes.org/HISTORY/leloir/justaucorpspattern.jpg
> Cheers, Aylwen
>
>
> Dawn wrote:
>
>> It looks something like this,
>>
>> http://www.costumes.org/HISTORY/100pages/leloirX1.htm
>>
>> find the pattern about 1/3 the way down the page, "Pattern for a 
>> Jutaucorps [sic] with pagoda sleeve"
>>
>> Norah Waugh's book is a very good source. Expensive, but worth it.
>>
>>
>>
>> Dawn
>>
>>
>> A & J Garden wrote:
>>
>>> I drafted my kickpleats from Norah Waugh's book "The Cut of Men's 
>>> Clothes".
>>> Regards, Aylwen Garden
>>>
>>> http://www.regencyreproductions.com
>>>
>>> YVONNE SCHNYDER wrote:
>>>
>>>> Does anyone know how to make kick pleats on the back of a pirate 
>>>> coat?  Like the one Johnny Depp wore in Pirates of the Carribean?  
>>>> The pleats look like they have alot of fabric but seem to lay 
>>>> smooth at the top where the pleats begin.  Any help would be much 
>>>> appreciated.
>>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Nov  2 07:41:32 2005
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <43631DEA.5030508@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Planning my first Tudor, need feedback on my plan
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2005 23:40:39 +1100
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Status: RO

> So, what do you think?  I have done so much reading that my head is 
> spinning with details.  I don't see a lot of recreation in 1530, moreso in 
> the 1540 range, where there are some changes.  I wish I had more non-royal 
> sources as I really don't need to be that high of class and I'd like to 
> know where I can legitimately skimp on the details.  I'm just looking for 
> some feedback and corrections as needed because I want to go fabric 
> shopping within the week.
>
> -- 
> Elinor Salter

OK, I've been looking through my files and for an example of a 1530s non 
royal portrait I've found this 1536 portrait of Elizabeth Widmerpole by Hans 
Holbein (I couldn't resist it as it's so close to my own name) 
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/1536_Widmerpole.jpg it shows a definite 
wrinkle beneath her bust which shows that unboned bodices are period. This 
sketch of Mary Zouch from the 1530s shows the French Hood as worn in England 
at that time http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/maryzouch.jpeg (as the 1540s 
style of hood is slightly diferent as is the French version and the only 
other reference is Anne Boleyn) I can't work out where I got these images 
from originally so I've put them up on my website,  apart from the wrinkle 
under the bust the portrait of Elizabeth Widmerpole is very similar to the 
portrait of Mary Boleyn I posted in my last message 
http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Boleyn,Mary.jpg and in all three the 
kirtle's neckline is not decorated (if you run short on time or money to 
bead your kirtle's neckline). 
http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/h/holbein/hans_y/index.html and look 
at Holbein's sketches (though only a few of them are on this site, I used to 
know a site that had all of them but I've changed computers and haven't 
transfered my favorites yet) These are all the non royal 1530s portraits I 
can find, but if I come across any more I will let you know.
HTH
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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Subject: [h-cost] Holbein at Portland, was re: Planning my first Tudor
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Good news for Holbein fans in or near Portland, Oregon. NYTimes has an 
article today on the current exhibit at the Portland, Oregon museum of Art:

"Madonna With Basel Mayor Jakob Meyer and His Family," is on view in the 
United States for the first time in a widely anticipated exhibition at 
the Portland Art Museum in Oregon."

(That would be this one: 
http://www.portlandartmuseum.org/asp/special_exhibitions/exhibitions.asp?exhibitionID=39

"The show, "Hesse: A Princely German Collection," provides both a rare 
public glimpse of one of the finest private art collections in Europe 
and an indirect primer on German laws governing cultural patrimony: six 
paintings in the show, including the Holbein, are on that country's list 
of "unexportable national treasures."

Also mentions some 15th century Flemish tapestries but doesn't specify.
Runs through March 19. Full NYTimes article at: (free registration may 
be required to read article)

http://www.nytimes.com/2005/11/02/arts/design/02hess.html?pagewanted=2&th&adxnnl=1&emc=th&adxnnlx=1130938652-nNlXwHi5AgBqUkb/wV7oDA

Information about the exhibit at:
http://www.portlandartmuseum.org/asp/special_exhibitions/exhibitions.asp?exhibitionID=39
catalog and links to some images of the objects

- Hope
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: 18th century breeches question
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2005 09:19:31 -0500
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I have had occasion to tighten such construction of the back band and solved
the problem by cutting the back band at equal distance to the center,remove
about an inch from the slit areas and rejoin the band ends.  Since there is
usually some ease already at this point, your re-adjust the gathers and
should get a better fit.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Marc Carlson" <marccarlson20@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2005 4:40 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: 18th century breeches question


> >From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
> >Can you split the back seam about 6", fold it back to make the
> >opening a little wider, then add lacing? This is contemporary with
> >18th century breeches, and can be seen in several original pairs that
> >I have had the opportunity to look at. I do it with all my 18th
> >century breeches as it allows for both "fat" and "thin" days.
>
> It's already split in back and tied.  I'm not sure if it's possible to
alter
> the angle on the split to make it more snug, but it's possible that may be
> the only real answer.
>
> Marc
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: 18th century breeches question
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2005 09:20:26 -0500
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Sorry, the last message attached re band adjustment was from
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Marc Carlson" <marccarlson20@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2005 4:40 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: 18th century breeches question


> >From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
> >Can you split the back seam about 6", fold it back to make the
> >opening a little wider, then add lacing? This is contemporary with
> >18th century breeches, and can be seen in several original pairs that
> >I have had the opportunity to look at. I do it with all my 18th
> >century breeches as it allows for both "fat" and "thin" days.
>
> It's already split in back and tied.  I'm not sure if it's possible to
alter
> the angle on the split to make it more snug, but it's possible that may be
> the only real answer.
>
> Marc
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kick pleats on 17th century pirate coat
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In a message dated 11/2/2005 12:45:32 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
garden@earthlydelights.com.au writes:

> http://www.costumes.org/HISTORY/leloir/justaucorpspattern.jpg
> 

Great pattern


Looks 1740s


I made my pirate coat more like 1700-17-teens and used Norah Waugh. There's a 
justicorps where the side back comes out at about a 90 degree angle from the 
CB piece. No actual pleating required, it just falls into folds. Very easy to 
make but not a full as the pattern you posted....but still looks great. 
There's plenty of fabric.

The cuff on the sleeves is real too...not added. The long bell shaped sleeve 
actually folds back and buttons to the upper part. The pocket flaps [and 
pockets] are low down on the coat.

Very easy to make
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Subject: [h-cost] Fw:  Medieval Reality Show Auditions
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I haven't checked out the legitimacy of this, but it might interest some of 
y'all:

> Fwd:
> From: Paladin Music & Entertainment
> Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2005 07:04:41 -0800 (PST)
> Subject: [EKSouth] Casting Call of Interest to SCA Members.
>
> IMMEDIATE CASTING CALL
> Paladin Music & Entertainment, Inc. is seeking
> families for an ABC TV Reality Show. The families must
> live the Renaissance, Fantasy or Medieval
> lifestyle. Perfect for rennies, SCA, Markland, etc.
> who have a love and passion for this way of life.
>
> Families must have one or more children ages
> 5 - 19 and all live together. No criminal records.
>
> NO ACTORS. REAL FAMILIES ONLY PLEASE. PAY. Serious
> inquiries only. For further details, please respond
> to: Mr. Chris Lance at paladinmusic@yahoo.com with
> full name, contact phone number and best time to
> call.

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From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
>Do you have a buckle and strap arrangement as well as your tie?...

No buckle, no.  I've seen some that had the buckle instead of a tie, but 
I'll have to start looking at that.

>Of course the cheating, 21st century way, would be to herringbone two 
>pieces of elastic into the side waistbands, on the inside of course, and 
>slightly smaller than the space they occupy, to give "grip" at the sides.

I was thinking about putting something in there to restrict stretching - 
like a strip of leater, or woven tape or something.

>Or put a "sticky" lining, like velvet, suede or similar, on to the inside 
>of the waistband, also to give grip.

Another possiblity, thank you.

------------------------------
From: Garden <garden@earthlydelights.com.au>
>How long is your shirt underneath?

Knee length, Linen.

>...don't worry - my husband is slim and seems to have the same problem as 
>you - I made another pair with a waistband that went up higher on the waist 
>and that seems to be working for now, although I'm starting to think of 
>suspenders.......

Rumor is that this is about when they started being developed, I'm thinking 
for this very problem :)

Marc


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Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2005 19:20:33 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: 18th century breeches question
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At 17:35 02/11/2005, you wrote:
>From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
>>Do you have a buckle and strap arrangement as well as your tie?...
>
>No buckle, no.  I've seen some that had the buckle instead of a tie, 
>but I'll have to start looking at that.
>
>>Of course the cheating, 21st century way, would be to herringbone 
>>two pieces of elastic into the side waistbands, on the inside of 
>>course, and slightly smaller than the space they occupy, to give 
>>"grip" at the sides.
>
>I was thinking about putting something in there to restrict 
>stretching - like a strip of leater, or woven tape or something.
>
>>Or put a "sticky" lining, like velvet, suede or similar, on to the 
>>inside of the waistband, also to give grip.
>
>Another possiblity, thank you.
>
>------------------------------
>From: Garden <garden@earthlydelights.com.au>
>>How long is your shirt underneath?
>
>Knee length, Linen.
>
>>...don't worry - my husband is slim and seems to have the same 
>>problem as you - I made another pair with a waistband that went up 
>>higher on the waist and that seems to be working for now, although 
>>I'm starting to think of suspenders.......
>
>Rumor is that this is about when they started being developed, I'm 
>thinking for this very problem :)

The earliest genuine trousers with buttons for suspenders (English 
translation - braces) that I have seen are c.1830. There are earlier 
ones, c.1760-1810, but as these, though genuine, are from a 
theatrical context, I cannot be certain that the buttons were not put 
on at a much later point in their history. Trousers buttoned on to 
upper garments were, of course, worn by late 18th century boys - the 
so-called skeleton suit. And 16-17th century hose/trunks/breeches 
were laced or hooked to the upper garments. It seems odd that only 
the 18th century breeches were intended to be self supporting.

Suzi


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From: Chris <emeraldepona@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fw:  Medieval Reality Show Auditions
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I know Chris personally so I'll bite here and say yes, this is legit.  FYI, he's up in Hackettstown, NJ...

E House <formfunc@formfunction.org> wrote:I haven't checked out the legitimacy of this, but it might interest some of 
y'all:

> Fwd:
> From: Paladin Music & Entertainment
> Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2005 07:04:41 -0800 (PST)
> Subject: [EKSouth] Casting Call of Interest to SCA Members.
>
> IMMEDIATE CASTING CALL
> Paladin Music & Entertainment, Inc. is seeking
> families for an ABC TV Reality Show. The families must
> live the Renaissance, Fantasy or Medieval
> lifestyle. Perfect for rennies, SCA, Markland, etc.
> who have a love and passion for this way of life.
>
> Families must have one or more children ages
> 5 - 19 and all live together. No criminal records.
>
> NO ACTORS. REAL FAMILIES ONLY PLEASE. PAY. Serious
> inquiries only. For further details, please respond
> to: Mr. Chris Lance at paladinmusic@yahoo.com with
> full name, contact phone number and best time to
> call.

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---------------------------------
 Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.  
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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
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Seeing as I have no children and therefore won't be applying, do you know 
anything about this that you could tell us?  My local list was briefly very 
interested in it, and then for no apparent reason decided it was a hoax.

-E House

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris" <emeraldepona@yahoo.com>
>I know Chris personally so I'll bite here and say yes, this is legit.  FYI, 
>he's up in Hackettstown, NJ...

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Lynda,

Please email me your address for the Gift Exchange. I don't think my 
mail to you is getting through.



Dawn



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Subject: [h-cost] Holiday Gift exchange - question...clarification
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So we are NOT  supposed to know who sent us our gift?  I just got my 
"assignment," and I'd kinda like to "talk" to this person.  Sounds like 
we have a lot in common!
Good match Dawn!

Sg

I have posted this to the site too Dawn, I figure if I have this 
question, so will others. 
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] embroidery supplies
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Hi,
After you sended the link to chenilles et pappilons, i have wondered. Does 
anybody know where i could get such oval silver spangels, as one of the mens 
jackets, are embroidered with?
Such ones i have ben looking for for ages, and i cant think of what things i 
mis because my french is so lousy. There must be loads of such things for 
sale in paris, when i think about all that haute couture made there with 
Lesage embroideries and the like. Any of you ever ben to paris and found 
such places?
Small tiny oval glassbeads would be a treassure two!

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: Chris <emeraldepona@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fw:  Medieval Reality Show Auditions
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Morning,
 
No, sorry I don't.  I can only suggest that you call Chris.  He WILL call you back even if it takes a day or so.  He's very good about that.  Also, don't be put off by his nonstop talking :)  The man has far more energy than one person should have and gets so excited about all the projects he works on.  Feel free to cut him off and ask questions :)

E House <formfunc@formfunction.org> wrote:
Seeing as I have no children and therefore won't be applying, do you know 
anything about this that you could tell us? My local list was briefly very 
interested in it, and then for no apparent reason decided it was a hoax.

-E House

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris" 
>I know Chris personally so I'll bite here and say yes, this is legit. FYI, 
>he's up in Hackettstown, NJ...

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Holiday Gift exchange - question...clarification
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>So we are NOT  supposed to know who sent us our gift?  I just got my 
>"assignment," and I'd kinda like to "talk" to this person.  Sounds 
>like we have a lot in common!
>Good match Dawn!

     I think the idea is that you reveal who you are when you send the 
gift.  But not beforehand.  I imagine there will be a lot of talking 
once the gift-giving is done!

      -Carol
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Holiday Gift exchange - question...clarification
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WickedFrau wrote:

> So we are NOT  supposed to know who sent us our gift?  I just got my 
> "assignment," and I'd kinda like to "talk" to this person.  Sounds like 
> we have a lot in common!
> Good match Dawn!


You'll know when they send you something. It's not supposed to be 
completely anonymous, just a mystery at first.

I didn't put any restrictions on contacting your assignment (sounds a 
bit cloak-and-dagger doesn't it?) so if you want to chat or feel you 
need more info before chosing a gift, feel free.

Almost everybody has been paired up. I will finish sending names out today.


Dawn


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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "WickedFrau" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
> So we are NOT  supposed to know who sent us our gift?  I just got my 
> "assignment," and I'd kinda like to "talk" to this person.  Sounds like we 
> have a lot in common!
> Good match Dawn!


I second the question (great match).  And since I'm now realizing how scanty 
my intro info was (I also like beads and jewelry-making! a lot!) I expect 
whoever got me might want to ask at least something or another.

-E House 

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Holiday Gift exchange - question...clarification
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On Thu, 3 Nov 2005, Carol Kocian wrote:

> >So we are NOT  supposed to know who sent us our gift?  I just got my 
> >"assignment," and I'd kinda like to "talk" to this person.  Sounds 
> >like we have a lot in common!
> 
>      I think the idea is that you reveal who you are when you send the 
> gift.  But not beforehand.  I imagine there will be a lot of talking 
> once the gift-giving is done!

I have someone who does a period I know absolutely nothing about, and now
I'm trying to figure out where to seek help on making a good choice --
since I can't post my questions to the list!

--Robin

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery supplies
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On Thu, 3 Nov 2005, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> After you sended the link to chenilles et pappilons, i have wondered. Does 
> anybody know where i could get such oval silver spangels, as one of the mens 
> jackets, are embroidered with? ...
> Small tiny oval glassbeads would be a treassure two!

Not sure about the spangles, but one huge source of glass beads would be
Fire Mountain, at http://www.firemountain.com . They ship internationally.
Be sure to check the "Outlet store" and "Great Product" sections of the
site for bargains, as well as the main catalog.

They might have something that works for spangles under metal beads or
findings -- there's a lot of sterling, silverplate, and pewter.

Warning: You can spend hours here.

--Robin


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At 14:23 03/11/2005, you wrote:
>Hi,
>After you sended the link to chenilles et pappilons, i have 
>wondered. Does anybody know where i could get such oval silver 
>spangels, as one of the mens jackets, are embroidered with?
>Such ones i have ben looking for for ages, and i cant think of what 
>things i mis because my french is so lousy. There must be loads of 
>such things for sale in paris, when i think about all that haute 
>couture made there with Lesage embroideries and the like. Any of you 
>ever ben to paris and found such places?
>Small tiny oval glassbeads would be a treassure two!
>
>Bjarne


Try 
http://www.creativebeadcraft.co.uk/pdf/BeadcraftPriceList.pdf#search='Ells%20and%20Farrier'

or http://www.debbiesiniska.co.uk/beads/links.html

You may not know all the people on the links page, although I am sure 
you know Ells and Farrier.

Suzi


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Hi, I keep getting someone elses messages, I think you have the wrong email 
address.


>From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Re: Holiday Gift exchange - question...clarification
>Date: Thu, 03 Nov 2005 09:10:39 -0600
>
>WickedFrau wrote:
>
>>So we are NOT  supposed to know who sent us our gift?  I just got my 
>>"assignment," and I'd kinda like to "talk" to this person.  Sounds like we 
>>have a lot in common!
>>Good match Dawn!
>
>
>You'll know when they send you something. It's not supposed to be 
>completely anonymous, just a mystery at first.
>
>I didn't put any restrictions on contacting your assignment (sounds a bit 
>cloak-and-dagger doesn't it?) so if you want to chat or feel you need more 
>info before chosing a gift, feel free.
>
>Almost everybody has been paired up. I will finish sending names out today.
>
>
>Dawn
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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-----Original Message-----
Hi,
After you sended the link to chenilles et pappilons, i have wondered. Does
anybody know where i could get such oval silver spangels, as one of the mens
jackets, are embroidered with?
Such ones i have ben looking for for ages, and i cant think of what things i
mis because my french is so lousy. There must be loads of such things for
sale in paris, when i think about all that haute couture made there with
Lesage embroideries and the like. Any of you ever ben to paris and found
such places?
Small tiny oval glassbeads would be a treassure two!

Bjarne

Reply:
http://www.crazycrow.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=53
0-900-000

These are circular and not oval. I can't seem to find the papillon site back
to see if you were really meaning circular or not.
Crazy Crow Trading is a good company to deal with. If you have the time you
may browse their site for other goodies.:)
Their sequins/spangles come in two sizes, 1/4 inch and 3/8 inch (roughly 1
1/2 cm ?). Brass and silver.

De


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I have someone who does a period I know absolutely nothing about, and
now
I'm trying to figure out where to seek help on making a good choice --
since I can't post my questions to the list!

--Robin
=====================
Post privately to someone on the list who you know might know something
about the period?

Catherine

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Holiday Gift exchange - question...clarification
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On Thu, 3 Nov 2005, Catherine Kinsey wrote:

> I have someone who does a period I know absolutely nothing about, and
> now I'm trying to figure out where to seek help on making a good
> choice -- since I can't post my questions to the list!

> Post privately to someone on the list who you know might know something
> about the period?

Tee hee. Just did. It took me a while to figure out who, though. I don't
pay much attention to post-1500 threads.

I think I'll also take a spin through the archives.

--Robin

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery supplies
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2005 20:49:35 +0100
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Hi,
It was oval seaqins i was after, doesnt seem to be in fashion these days.
I looked at your link and found this:
German Silver Sheet Metal - 28 Gauge, 6"x12"
Wich is thin silver plate wich you could cut out yourself.
Perhaps that would be a solution. This was very much in use in 18th century 
to cut out special shapes and add to your embroidery.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 8:23 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] embroidery supplies


> -----Original Message-----
> Hi,
> After you sended the link to chenilles et pappilons, i have wondered. Does
> anybody know where i could get such oval silver spangels, as one of the 
> mens
> jackets, are embroidered with?
> Such ones i have ben looking for for ages, and i cant think of what things 
> i
> mis because my french is so lousy. There must be loads of such things for
> sale in paris, when i think about all that haute couture made there with
> Lesage embroideries and the like. Any of you ever ben to paris and found
> such places?
> Small tiny oval glassbeads would be a treassure two!
>
> Bjarne
>
> Reply:
> http://www.crazycrow.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=53
> 0-900-000
>
> These are circular and not oval. I can't seem to find the papillon site 
> back
> to see if you were really meaning circular or not.
> Crazy Crow Trading is a good company to deal with. If you have the time 
> you
> may browse their site for other goodies.:)
> Their sequins/spangles come in two sizes, 1/4 inch and 3/8 inch (roughly 1
> 1/2 cm ?). Brass and silver.
>
> De
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Holiday Gift exchange - question...clarification
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Hi,
I am going to do that two, and i hope it is allright to do this.
New period, very exciting to try it out!

Bjarne
       
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 8:26 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Holiday Gift exchange - question...clarification


>I have someone who does a period I know absolutely nothing about, and
> now
> I'm trying to figure out where to seek help on making a good choice --
> since I can't post my questions to the list!
> 
> --Robin
> =====================
> Post privately to someone on the list who you know might know something
> about the period?
> 
> Catherine
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] embroidery supplies
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2005 14:30:07 -0600
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If you cut your own shapes you will need something to smooth down the edges.

De

-----Original Message-----
Hi,
It was oval seaqins i was after, doesnt seem to be in fashion these days.
I looked at your link and found this:
German Silver Sheet Metal - 28 Gauge, 6"x12"
Wich is thin silver plate wich you could cut out yourself.
Perhaps that would be a solution. This was very much in use in 18th century
to cut out special shapes and add to your embroidery.

Bjarne


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Would it be possible to use one of the new fancy punches that are currently
the vogue for scrapbooking? I have tried a "corrugated press" for paper and
have found that if the fabric is crisp enough, it will pattern the
fabric.(This is another scrapbook item).  I suspect that the foil sequins
will be 'buried' in the embroidery enough that the rough edges will not be a
problem.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 3:30 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] embroidery supplies


> If you cut your own shapes you will need something to smooth down the
edges.
>
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Hi,
> It was oval seaqins i was after, doesnt seem to be in fashion these days.
> I looked at your link and found this:
> German Silver Sheet Metal - 28 Gauge, 6"x12"
> Wich is thin silver plate wich you could cut out yourself.
> Perhaps that would be a solution. This was very much in use in 18th
century
> to cut out special shapes and add to your embroidery.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery supplies
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Emery boards for fingernail filing work very well for delicate things like
this, I use them for smoothing out the edges of plastic jewels and glass
shisha mirrors for dance costumes. Added bonus, a pack of the disposable
ones is usually very cheap.

Sheridan


> If you cut your own shapes you will need something to smooth down the
edges.
>
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Hi,
> It was oval seaqins i was after, doesnt seem to be in fashion these days.
> I looked at your link and found this:
> German Silver Sheet Metal - 28 Gauge, 6"x12"
> Wich is thin silver plate wich you could cut out yourself.
> Perhaps that would be a solution. This was very much in use in 18th
century
> to cut out special shapes and add to your embroidery.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Nov  3 17:13:17 2005
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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery supplies
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I've been experimenting with making similar things -- see this page for my first attempts:
http://claning.home.igc.org/bezants/bezants.htm

None of the things I've sewed these onto so far have seen much wear, but the edges of the metal are definitely _not_ sharp enough to cut fingers, and they don't seem to be doing any damage to the fabric they're sewed onto.

The 32-gauge soft brass sheet I've been using can be cut with ordinary scissors and pierced by a needle, but I would not expect a punch designed to work on paper to be sharp enough or sturdy enough. A leather punch does work (the kind that is mounted on a straight rod that you hit with a hammer). One of my friends tried using some scrapbooking embossing-templates on this metal, and found that while she could get a design, the plastic template wasn't sturdy enough and got pretty well mashed in the process.

Ideally, of course, one would use jewelry-making tools of hardened metal, but the softer metal tools designed for leather do work, though they probably won't last as long.

If there's interest, I have a longer article on bezants that I can post on that web page as well.

-----Original Message-----
From: Lloyd Mitchell <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
Sent: Nov 3, 2005 1:23 PM
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery supplies

Would it be possible to use one of the new fancy punches that are currently
the vogue for scrapbooking? I have tried a "corrugated press" for paper and
have found that if the fabric is crisp enough, it will pattern the
fabric.(This is another scrapbook item).  I suspect that the foil sequins
will be 'buried' in the embroidery enough that the rough edges will not be a
problem.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 3:30 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] embroidery supplies


> If you cut your own shapes you will need something to smooth down the
edges.
>
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Hi,
> It was oval seaqins i was after, doesnt seem to be in fashion these days.
> I looked at your link and found this:
> German Silver Sheet Metal - 28 Gauge, 6"x12"
> Wich is thin silver plate wich you could cut out yourself.
> Perhaps that would be a solution. This was very much in use in 18th
century
> to cut out special shapes and add to your embroidery.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

_______________________________________________
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____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
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Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: [SCA-Laurels] Commercian patterns for Viking and/or
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>From some curious folks, myself included.
Has anyone seen or tried these patterns?  How authentic  are they, etc.?
Thanks.
Nancy

On the  Norsefolk list, a gentleman posted to ask whether the "Viking and 
Saxon"  commercial costume patterns at  
http://www.caliverbooks.com/general/patterns.htm  were worth  buying.


Has anyone seen these patterns?  How accurate  historically are they? Was 
there any documentation and if so was it any  good?  Were they easy to use or 
not?  I'd like to solicit  feedback that I can take back to the Norsefolk  
list.


 
 
 
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

Nancy  Spies
Arelate Studio
_www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html_ 
(http://www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html) 
Ingvild  Josefsdatter, OL
Bright Hills, Atlantia

"But if by a 'Liberal' they  mean someone who looks ahead and not behind, 
someone who welcomes new ideas  without rigid reactions, someone who cares about 
the welfare of the people --  their health, their housing, their schools, 
their jobs, their civil rights, and  their civil liberties -- someone who believes 
we can break through the stalemate  and suspicions that grip us in our 
policies abroad, if that is what they mean by  a 'Liberal,' then I'm proud to say 
I'm a 'Liberal'." John F. Kennedy, 14 Sept  1960

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The stationary punches don't work real well with metal. What works to a
degree are leather punches, dies and stamps. Smoothing the edge is
recommended as the edge cut and will cut fabric, embroidery floss and your
fingers. And it not cut snag you fabric and embroidery, as well as prick
your finger(s). Emery board, metal file or dremil tool works. You don't have
to do the whole thing, just where it is sharp.

-----Original Message-----
Would it be possible to use one of the new fancy punches that are currently
the vogue for scrapbooking? I have tried a "corrugated press" for paper and
have found that if the fabric is crisp enough, it will pattern the
fabric.(This is another scrapbook item).  I suspect that the foil sequins
will be 'buried' in the embroidery enough that the rough edges will not be a
problem.

Kathleen


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Subject: [h-cost] older singer sewing machines
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 hello everyone

we have a 1951 singer electric sewing machine, and its in reasonable
condition, but we are in need of a new or decent bobbin case, 

machine style number is 201k3e



can anyone help with spares or know of any cheap reliable old machines i can
buy 

thanks all

jessica

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery supplies
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You have probably saved me another hour of tinkering.  I am quit amazed at
the new tools for dealing with paper and wish someone would produce the same
sort of thing for textiles!  I remember the discussion on re discovering
pinking tools and could yet hope that historical costume interest would come
up with something that would more than "DO".

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Laning" <claning@igc.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 5:12 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery supplies


> I've been experimenting with making similar things -- see this page for my
first attempts:
> http://claning.home.igc.org/bezants/bezants.htm
>
> None of the things I've sewed these onto so far have seen much wear, but
the edges of the metal are definitely _not_ sharp enough to cut fingers, and
they don't seem to be doing any damage to the fabric they're sewed onto.
>
> The 32-gauge soft brass sheet I've been using can be cut with ordinary
scissors and pierced by a needle, but I would not expect a punch designed to
work on paper to be sharp enough or sturdy enough. A leather punch does work
(the kind that is mounted on a straight rod that you hit with a hammer). One
of my friends tried using some scrapbooking embossing-templates on this
metal, and found that while she could get a design, the plastic template
wasn't sturdy enough and got pretty well mashed in the process.
>
> Ideally, of course, one would use jewelry-making tools of hardened metal,
but the softer metal tools designed for leather do work, though they
probably won't last as long.
>
> If there's interest, I have a longer article on bezants that I can post on
that web page as well.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Lloyd Mitchell <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
> Sent: Nov 3, 2005 1:23 PM
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery supplies
>
> Would it be possible to use one of the new fancy punches that are
currently
> the vogue for scrapbooking? I have tried a "corrugated press" for paper
and
> have found that if the fabric is crisp enough, it will pattern the
> fabric.(This is another scrapbook item).  I suspect that the foil sequins
> will be 'buried' in the embroidery enough that the rough edges will not be
a
> problem.
>
> Kathleen
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 3:30 PM
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] embroidery supplies
>
>
> > If you cut your own shapes you will need something to smooth down the
> edges.
> >
> > De
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > Hi,
> > It was oval seaqins i was after, doesnt seem to be in fashion these
days.
> > I looked at your link and found this:
> > German Silver Sheet Metal - 28 Gauge, 6"x12"
> > Wich is thin silver plate wich you could cut out yourself.
> > Perhaps that would be a solution. This was very much in use in 18th
> century
> > to cut out special shapes and add to your embroidery.
> >
> > Bjarne
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
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>
> ____________________________________________________________
> 0  Chris Laning
> |  <claning@igc.org>
> +  Davis, California
> ____________________________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] older singer sewing machines
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Try eBay.  I got bobbins for an 1886 Singer that way.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
--- "jessica lynn potter" <mrscrinoline@aol.com> wrote:
From: "jessica lynn potter" <mrscrinoline@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2005 23:49:14 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time)
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] older singer sewing machines
hello everyone
we  have  a  1951  singer  electric  sewing machine, and its in
reasonable
condition, but we are in need of a new or decent bobbin case,
machine style number is 201k3e
can  anyone  help with spares or know of any cheap reliable old
machines i can
buy
thanks all
jessica
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Subject: [h-cost] Blackwork coif
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Greetings everyone,

    This is a question for those who do blackwork.   I've only done samplers of blackwork.  Now, I would like to make myself a coif and do some blackwork on a shirt for my finace' for his Elizabethan garb.
     I'm not sure how to go about it with the coif.  I have found several sites on how to make the coif but I'm not sure if I should do an outline of the coif pattern on the material then do the blackwork on the pre-cut coif.  Also, I've noticed that many of the fabric and craft stores (Michael's) has like 28 or 32 count pieces of linen - is this fabric okay to use for the coif or should I buy regular even weave linen fabric?
    I basically have the same question for a man's shirt.  I've figured out how to do the cuffs but not sure how to go about any other part of the shirt.
     Thanks for any assistance.

Roscelin

BTW, thanks to everyone who gave suggestions about Elizabethan patterns for my future mother in law.  It seems she had picked up a pattern the same day she asked me to get recommendations.
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Upcoming costume event, St. Cloud, Minn.
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As I mentioned a few weeks ago, I'm scheduled to speak at Clothier's
Seminar North (an SCA event) on Sat., Nov. 18, in St. Cloud, Minnesota. I
promised further details when they became available. As of today, there's
a preliminary class list up at
http://www.geocities.com/ursulagoddess/CSNorth_main.html

I'll be giving four lectures -- my mainstays on the Gothic fitted dress,
the Greenland gored gown, the sideless surcote, and the 15th century
V-neck gown.

Given the quantity of classes, the event strikes me as very reasonable: $8
for SCA members, $11 for nonmembers, and you get lunch if you preregister
by Nov. 9.

If this hasn't already been announced on the usual SCA garb lists, I know
the planners would appreciate it if someone would make a mention.

And if anyone on the h-cost list is planning on going, please let me know,
and be sure to introduce yourself at the event. (Don't be put off if I'm
in my usual pre-lecture intense-concentration mode or my post-lecture
brain fog.) I'd love lunch company with some h-cost people!

--Robin



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Status: RO

Thank you, however we are looking for

the mechanism that holds/drives the 

bobbin not the bobbin spool itself.

Would appreciate any help and/or input.

Thanks all,

jessica



-------Original Message-------

 

From: Lalah

Date: 11/03/05 16:07:51

To: Historical Costume

Subject: Re: [h-cost] older singer sewing machines

 

Try eBay.  I got bobbins for an 1886 Singer that way.

 

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender

--- "jessica lynn potter" <mrscrinoline@aol.com> wrote:

From: "jessica lynn potter" <mrscrinoline@aol.com>

Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2005 23:49:14 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time)

To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>

Subject: [h-cost] older singer sewing machines

hello everyone

we  have  a  1951  singer  electric  sewing machine, and its in

reasonable

condition, but we are in need of a new or decent bobbin case,

machine style number is 201k3e

can  anyone  help with spares or know of any cheap reliable old

machines i can

buy

thanks all

jessica

-------Original Message-------

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] older singer sewing machines
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2005 19:42:12 -0500
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Do try e-bay for older parts!  Had great luck finding pieces for my older
(and Beloved) Kenmore, recently
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "jessica lynn potter" <mrscrinoline@aol.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2005 2:49 AM
Subject: [h-cost] older singer sewing machines




 hello everyone

we have a 1951 singer electric sewing machine, and its in reasonable
condition, but we are in need of a new or decent bobbin case,

machine style number is 201k3e



can anyone help with spares or know of any cheap reliable old machines i can
buy

thanks all

jessica

-------Original Message-------


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From: Bonnie Booker <aspasia1@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blackwork coif
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>
>
> I'm not sure how to go about it with the coif. I have found several sites
> on how to make the coif but I'm not sure if I should do an outline of the
> coif pattern on the material then do the blackwork on the pre-cut coif.

 Draw the outline of the coif on the linen. It is one piece. Then put the
embroidery design on the coif. If you are willing to use modern methods, cut
out a piece of tracing paper in the shape of the coif and trace the
developed design onto the paper with a transfer pencil and iron it on the
outlined coif. Or if you want to be period, draw it on (cartooning) on draw
it on butcher paper and poke holes in it and sprinkle charcoal in the holes.
I recommend the first.

 Also, I've noticed that many of the fabric and craft stores (Michael's) has
> like 28 or 32 count pieces of linen - is this fabric okay to use for the
> coif or should I buy regular even weave linen fabric?

 You can use this, but I use medium weight even weave white linen. Either
way, I line it with white linen.

 I basically have the same question for a man's shirt. I've figured out how
> to do the cuffs but not sure how to go about any other part of the shirt

 You can count threads on the coif and shirt, or on the shirt you can use
waste canvas. Instructions come on the package and you can get it at
Michael's. 14 count is the most common. That means 14 stitches to the inch,
but you can get a higher count (smaller design.)


 Aspasia Moonwind
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Date: Thu, 03 Nov 2005 16:53:46 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] older singer sewing machines
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The first thing I would do is call my local Singer sales/repair 
shop.  Your machine is not so old that the parts may not be available.
Joan

At 12:39 AM 11/4/2005, you wrote:
>Thank you, however we are looking for the mechanism that holds/drives the
>bobbin not the bobbin spool itself.
>
>Would appreciate any help and/or input.
>
>Thanks all,
>
>jessica
>
>-------Original Message-------
>
>From: Lalah
>Date: 11/03/05 16:07:51
>To: Historical Costume
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] older singer sewing machines
>
>Try eBay.  I got bobbins for an 1886 Singer that way.
>
>Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
>
>--- "jessica lynn potter" <mrscrinoline@aol.com> wrote:
>From: "jessica lynn potter" <mrscrinoline@aol.com>
>Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2005 23:49:14 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time)
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] older singer sewing machines
>
>hello everyone
>
>we  have  a  1951  singer  electric  sewing machine, and its in reasonable
>condition, but we are in need of a new or decent bobbin case,
>machine style number is 201k3e
>
>can  anyone  help with spares or know of any cheap reliable old
>machines i can buy
>
>thanks all
>
>jessica

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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At 04:13 PM 11/3/2005, you wrote:
>Greetings everyone,
>
>     This is a question for those who do blackwork.   I've only done 
> samplers of blackwork.  Now, I would like to make myself a coif and 
> do some blackwork on a shirt for my finace' for his Elizabethan garb.
>      I'm not sure how to go about it with the coif.  I have found 
> several sites on how to make the coif but I'm not sure if I should 
> do an outline of the coif pattern on the material then do the 
> blackwork on the pre-cut coif.  Also, I've noticed that many of the 
> fabric and craft stores (Michael's) has like 28 or 32 count pieces 
> of linen - is this fabric okay to use for the coif or should I buy 
> regular even weave linen fabric?
>     I basically have the same question for a man's shirt.  I've 
> figured out how to do the cuffs but not sure how to go about any 
> other part of the shirt.
>      Thanks for any assistance.
>
>Roscelin
>
>BTW, thanks to everyone who gave suggestions about Elizabethan 
>patterns for my future mother in law.  It seems she had picked up a 
>pattern the same day she asked me to get recommendations.

The best way to do it is to outline the coif on your fabric; put it 
in the frame and work your pattern.  Do not cut it out until you are 
done with the embroidery.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] older singer sewing machines
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I will contact them and see what they have to say.

Thank you,

jessica & vicky 

 

-------Original Message-------

 

From: Joan Jurancich

Date: 11/03/05 16:54:29

To: Historical Costume

Subject: Re: [h-cost] older singer sewing machines

 

The first thing I would do is call my local Singer sales/repair

shop.  Your machine is not so old that the parts may not be available.

Joan

 

At 12:39 AM 11/4/2005, you wrote:

>Thank you, however we are looking for the mechanism that holds/drives the

>bobbin not the bobbin spool itself.

>

>Would appreciate any help and/or input.

>

>Thanks all,

>

>jessica

>

>-------Original Message-------

>

>From: Lalah

>Date: 11/03/05 16:07:51

>To: Historical Costume

>Subject: Re: [h-cost] older singer sewing machines

>

>Try eBay.  I got bobbins for an 1886 Singer that way.

>

>Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender

>

>--- "jessica lynn potter" <mrscrinoline@aol.com> wrote:

>From: "jessica lynn potter" <mrscrinoline@aol.com>

>Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2005 23:49:14 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time)

>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>

>Subject: [h-cost] older singer sewing machines

>

>hello everyone

>

>we  have  a  1951  singer  electric  sewing machine, and its in reasonable

>condition, but we are in need of a new or decent bobbin case,

>machine style number is 201k3e

>

>can  anyone  help with spares or know of any cheap reliable old

>machines i can buy

>

>thanks all

>

>jessica

 

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Thank you but we have never heard of

this particular sewing machine and we are curious about

it's age, you happen to know the year it was made?

 And yes we will have a look on ebay.

Thanks,

jessica & vicky



-------Original Message-------

 

From: Lloyd Mitchell

Date: 11/03/05 16:44:07

To: Historical Costume

Subject: Re: [h-cost] older singer sewing machines

 

Do try e-bay for older parts!  Had great luck finding pieces for my older

(and Beloved) Kenmore, recently

Kathleen

----- Original Message -----

From: "jessica lynn potter" <mrscrinoline@aol.com>

To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>

Sent: Friday, November 04, 2005 2:49 AM

Subject: [h-cost] older singer sewing machines

 

 

 

 

  hello everyone

 

we have a 1951 singer electric sewing machine, and its in reasonable

condition, but we are in need of a new or decent bobbin case,

 

machine style number is 201k3e

 

 

 

can anyone help with spares or know of any cheap reliable old machines i can

buy

 

thanks all

 

jessica

 

-------Original Message-------

 

 

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Hello,

can anyone give us advice on where we can get hooping material for crinoline
dresses. Are they made of plastic or is it cloth covered wire and could
anyone tell us where to get the appropriate materials please?

thank you,

jessica & vicky
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Upcoming costume event, St. Cloud, Minn.
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I haven't seen it on any of the SCA lists I'm on, that I recall.  Will be
glad to forward....
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historic Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 5:52 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Upcoming costume event, St. Cloud, Minn.


>
> As I mentioned a few weeks ago, I'm scheduled to speak at Clothier's
> Seminar North (an SCA event) on Sat., Nov. 18, in St. Cloud, Minnesota. I
> promised further details when they became available. As of today, there's
> a preliminary class list up at
> http://www.geocities.com/ursulagoddess/CSNorth_main.html
>
> I'll be giving four lectures -- my mainstays on the Gothic fitted dress,
> the Greenland gored gown, the sideless surcote, and the 15th century
> V-neck gown.
>
> Given the quantity of classes, the event strikes me as very reasonable: $8
> for SCA members, $11 for nonmembers, and you get lunch if you preregister
> by Nov. 9.
>
> If this hasn't already been announced on the usual SCA garb lists, I know
> the planners would appreciate it if someone would make a mention.
>
> And if anyone on the h-cost list is planning on going, please let me know,
> and be sure to introduce yourself at the event. (Don't be put off if I'm
> in my usual pre-lecture intense-concentration mode or my post-lecture
> brain fog.) I'd love lunch company with some h-cost people!
>
> --Robin


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hoops for crinoline dresses
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One place is http://www.farthingales.on.ca/ and the site has lots of 
info to read about it all as well.
Cheers, Aylwen

http://www.regencyreproductions.com

jessica lynn potter wrote:

>Hello,
>
>can anyone give us advice on where we can get hooping material for crinoline
>dresses. Are they made of plastic or is it cloth covered wire and could
>anyone tell us where to get the appropriate materials please?
>
>thank you,
>
>jessica & vicky
>_______________________________________________
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>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
>  
>
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fwd: [SCA-Laurels] Commercian patterns for Viking and/or
	Saxon clothes?
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On Thursday 03 November 2005 5:57 pm, SNSpies@aol.com wrote:
> From some curious folks, myself included.
> Has anyone seen or tried these patterns?  How authentic  are they, etc.?
> Thanks.

I don't know, though I've run across the website in question before and I too 
am curious.  

Apparently "Petty Chapman" has his own website, here:

http://www.pettychapman.co.uk/

He appears to be a vendor selling mainly to UK reenactors.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical 
results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
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In a message dated 11/3/2005 6:34:18 P.M. Mountain Standard Time,  
mrscrinoline@aol.com writes:

can  anyone give us advice on where we can get hooping material for  crinoline
dresses. Are they made of plastic or is it cloth covered wire and  could
anyone tell us where to get the appropriate materials  please?




try Amazon Drygoods or Farthingales, both have web pages that you can  
"google".
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Or Greenberg and Hammer
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Cheryldee@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 11:15 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hoops for crinoline dresses


>
> In a message dated 11/3/2005 6:34:18 P.M. Mountain Standard Time,
> mrscrinoline@aol.com writes:
>
> can  anyone give us advice on where we can get hooping material for
crinoline
> dresses. Are they made of plastic or is it cloth covered wire and  could
> anyone tell us where to get the appropriate materials  please?
>
>
>
>
> try Amazon Drygoods or Farthingales, both have web pages that you can
> "google".
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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I believe petty chapman is also a "title" of someone who sells small items. Sadly all the sites that I could find that sell petty chapman patterns don't have a picture and on one site they say that it is a book and not patterns.

-----Original Message-----
On Thursday 03 November 2005 5:57 pm, SNSpies@aol.com wrote:
> From some curious folks, myself included.
> Has anyone seen or tried these patterns?  How authentic  are they, etc.?
> Thanks.

I don't know, though I've run across the website in question before and I too 
am curious.  

Apparently "Petty Chapman" has his own website, here:

http://www.pettychapman.co.uk/

He appears to be a vendor selling mainly to UK reenactors.




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From: Kahlara <kahlara@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Upcoming costume event, St. Cloud, Minn.
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Wish it wasn't so far away from me - those sound like exactly the ones I would want to attend. 
 
Annette M


Message: 2
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2005 18:52:48 -0600 (CST)
From: Robin Netherton 
Subject: [h-cost] Upcoming costume event, St. Cloud, Minn.

As I mentioned a few weeks ago, I'm scheduled to speak at Clothier's
Seminar North (an SCA event) on Sat., Nov. 18, in St. Cloud, Minnesota. I
promised further details when they became available. As of today, there's
a preliminary class list up at
http://www.geocities.com/ursulagoddess/CSNorth_main.html

I'll be giving four lectures -- my mainstays on the Gothic fitted dress,
the Greenland gored gown, the sideless surcote, and the 15th century
V-neck gown.

Given the quantity of classes, the event strikes me as very reasonable: $8
for SCA members, $11 for nonmembers, and you get lunch if you preregister
by Nov. 9.

If this hasn't already been announced on the usual SCA garb lists, I know
the planners would appreciate it if someone would make a mention.

And if anyone on the h-cost list is planning on going, please let me know,
and be sure to introduce yourself at the event. (Don't be put off if I'm
in my usual pre-lecture intense-concentration mode or my post-lecture
brain fog.) I'd love lunch company with some h-cost people!

--Robin


		
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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: blackwork coif
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	Use regular evenweave linen, of the best quality you can find.
Use a filament silk thread. Mark the coif pattern on the linen, allowing
yourself at least a 2" border all around. Mark on the embroidery
pattern; however, if you can do the outline of the coif and the
embroidery marking all in one go that's best. Don't fuss about the
embroidery transfer being washable. In period the cartoons (embroidery
designs) were marked in blue India ink and thus indelible. 

	For the shirt you can choose to appliqué or work directly on the
fabric. I'd choose the latter.

	Bind the edges of the fabric with a twill tape to protect the
edges, then stretch on a roller bar frame, not a hoop. Go nuts.

	After you've finished embroidering unframe the items, cut them
out and hand-sew together.

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery supplies
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 1:05 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery supplies


> Not sure about the spangles, but one huge source of glass beads would be
> Fire Mountain, at http://www.firemountain.com . They ship internationally.
> Be sure to check the "Outlet store" and "Great Product" sections of the
> site for bargains, as well as the main catalog.
>
> They might have something that works for spangles under metal beads or
> findings -- there's a lot of sterling, silverplate, and pewter.
>
> Warning: You can spend hours here.
>
> --Robin
>
And lots of money. I just bought some things to make a girdle, and spent $60 
in under ten minutes! Would have been a whole lot more, but I already had 
the pearls.

Dianne 

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Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: [SCA-Laurels] Commercian patterns for Viking and/or
	Saxon clot
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Caliver books (run by Dave Ryan) are regulars on the UK re-enactment trading 
scene.  So is Petty Chapman (Dave Rushworth).

I've never used any of the patterns sold by Caliver, (I cut my own), so can't 
say how accurate or otherwise, or how easy to use.

Did once use some of Dave Rushworth's patterns once, at a customer's 
insistence - will never do it again.  Over complicated, and seemed to be completely 
arbitrary whether you got instructions or not!  I worked it out, but as I cut my 
own patterns already, I'm pretty advanced - anyone with less experience may 
have problems.  Have heard that others have had problems too.

These are of course, my personal experiences, and others may have had no 
problems at all, but just thought I should mention it.

Debs
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From: "jessica lynn potter" <mrscrinoline@aol.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] hoops for crinoline dresses
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hi Aylwen

thanks this is worth looking into, as i am now starting work for the first
time on crinolines and hoopskirts



thank,s 

jessica 

 

-------Original Message-------

 

From: A & J Garden

Date: 11/03/05 17:39:47

To: Historical Costume

Subject: Re: [h-cost] hoops for crinoline dresses

 

One place is http://www.farthingales.on.ca/ and the site has lots of

info to read about it all as well.

Cheers, Aylwen

 

http://www.regencyreproductions.com

 

jessica lynn potter wrote:

 

>Hello,

>

>can anyone give us advice on where we can get hooping material for
crinoline

>dresses. Are they made of plastic or is it cloth covered wire and could

>anyone tell us where to get the appropriate materials please?

>

>thank you,

>

>jessica & vicky

>_______________________________________________

>h-costume mailing list

&gt;h-costume@mail.indra.com

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>

>

>

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Status: RO

hey hun

thanks i will have a look into thias as soon as i have 5 mins to spare

hugs

jessica 

 

-------Original Message-------

 

From: Cheryldee@aol.com

Date: 11/03/05 20:16:26

To: h-costume@indra.com

Subject: Re: [h-cost] hoops for crinoline dresses

 

 

In a message dated 11/3/2005 6:34:18 P.M. Mountain Standard Time,

mrscrinoline@aol.com writes:

 

can  anyone give us advice on where we can get hooping material for 
crinoline

dresses. Are they made of plastic or is it cloth covered wire and  could

anyone tell us where to get the appropriate materials  please?

 

 

 

 

try Amazon Drygoods or Farthingales, both have web pages that you can

"google".

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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Blackwork coif
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I second the recommendations to use linen and draw the pattern for the
coif directly onto the fabric.  I would recommend regular linen from a
good fabric store, slightly heavier than a weight you might be using for
the shirt.

I don't know how much embroidery you have done but if you are wanting a
counted type pattern on the shirt, give a try at just eyeballing it :). 
Also, a lot of the shirts, and the coifs, were not done in counted
patterns but used a variety of stitches.  Stem/outline stitch was very
commen.

There is a Blackwork group on Yahoo that also might be able to help. 
As stroll through the picture files will give you a lot of inspiration
too.

Catherine
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On Fri, 4 Nov 2005, Dianne & Greg Stucki wrote:

> > Warning: You can spend hours here.

> And lots of money. I just bought some things to make a girdle, and
> spent $60 in under ten minutes! Would have been a whole lot more, but
> I already had the pearls.

You got off easy ;-)  I shop the sale stuff once or twice a year, when
there's enough to make a big order. I made an order last week; it came to
$450.

(Well, when you're at 90 strands or so, it makes sense to go for the even
hundred and the 10 percent discount.)

This is because I know I will return half for inadequate quality. I have
learned how to work with their return policy! Of course, half of 100
strands is still 50 strands...

They're by no means my favorite vendor. My favorite is South Pacific.

--Robin
jeweler on the side

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From: "jessica lynn potter" <mrscrinoline@aol.com>
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hoops for crinoline dresses
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Status: RO

hey kathleen ,

thanks for that, it will be useful, ,as i am starting crinoline dress making
for the first time as such, and its not like my usual sewing work, so all
you tell me i absorb,



thanks

jessica 

 

-------Original Message-------

 

From: Lloyd Mitchell

Date: 11/03/05 21:18:25

To: Historical Costume

Subject: Re: [h-cost] hoops for crinoline dresses

 

Or Greenberg and Hammer

Kathleen

----- Original Message -----

From: <Cheryldee@aol.com>

To: <h-costume@indra.com>

Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 11:15 PM

Subject: Re: [h-cost] hoops for crinoline dresses

 

 

>

> In a message dated 11/3/2005 6:34:18 P.M. Mountain Standard Time,

> mrscrinoline@aol.com writes:

>

> can  anyone give us advice on where we can get hooping material for

crinoline

> dresses. Are they made of plastic or is it cloth covered wire and  could

> anyone tell us where to get the appropriate materials  please?

>

>

>

>

> try Amazon Drygoods or Farthingales, both have web pages that you can

> "google".

> _______________________________________________

> h-costume mailing list

> h-costume@mail.indra.com

> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

>

 

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Subject: [h-cost] Attention Yvonne Schnyder-H-cost list wrong address
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Status: RO

Hi Yvonne, it is not clear who you are adressing this to.  Dawn, me 
(Sg), or the list? 

YVONNE SCHNYDER wrote:

> Hi, I keep getting someone elses messages, I think you have the wrong 
> email address.
>
>
>> From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
>> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Subject: [h-cost] Re: Holiday Gift exchange - question...clarification
>> Date: Thu, 03 Nov 2005 09:10:39 -0600
>>
>> WickedFrau wrote:
>>
>>> So we are NOT  supposed to know who sent us our gift?  I just got my 
>>> "assignment," and I'd kinda like to "talk" to this person.  Sounds 
>>> like we have a lot in common!
>>> Good match Dawn!
>>
>>
>>
>> You'll know when they send you something. It's not supposed to be 
>> completely anonymous, just a mystery at first.
>>
>> I didn't put any restrictions on contacting your assignment (sounds a 
>> bit cloak-and-dagger doesn't it?) so if you want to chat or feel you 
>> need more info before chosing a gift, feel free.
>>
>> Almost everybody has been paired up. I will finish sending names out 
>> today.
>>
>>
>> Dawn
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>

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From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] OT-Question about Silk Taffeta
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Hello everyone,

I was hoping that any of you who use silk taffeta in your costuming could
help me......

I have been told that dupioni is not really appropriate for historical
costuming but I know that many of us use it to cut down on costs.  Taffeta
is closer to the weave/weight/sheen that is appropriate for the 1500's
through the 1800's but it is more expensive.

I have a supplier that has a nice range of colored taffetas but I am not
sure if the price is reasonable or not.

If you use silk taffeta, what do you typically pay per yard for it?  What
colors would you like to be able to find?  Any other input?  (Please
respond to me at dch@inreach.com so that we don't clog up the list)

Thanks for your help!  And if I can offer silk taffetas at good prices, I
will do so.

Happy Sewing,

Diana


www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2005 11:56:23 -0500
From: Bonnie Booker <aspasia1@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Blackwork coif
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>
>
> I don't know how much embroidery you have done but if you are wanting a
> counted type pattern on the shirt, give a try at just eyeballing it :).

 I don't recommend this as the pattern could become way off.

Also, a lot of the shirts, and the coifs, were not done in counted
> patterns but used a variety of stitches. Stem/outline stitch was very
> common.

 Holbein, or double running stitch is much more common outline stitch and
more authentic for a simple design. For more elaborate designs braid stitch
etc. If you aren't much of an embroider I recommend the Holbein.You can find
good simple designs at
www.blackworkarchives.com<http://www.blackworkarchives.com>and
http://aeg.atlantia.sca.org/index.htm can give you patterns and refer you to
other places. There is a referal page on each to sites with period patterns.

There is a Blackwork group on Yahoo that also might be able to help.
> As stroll through the picture files will give you a lot of inspiration
> too.

 I recommend it. I'm a member. Also look at the photogallery for ideas.

--
> Aspasia Moonwind
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT-Question about Silk Taffeta
Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2005 18:23:00 +0100
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Dear Diana,
Silk taffetas comes in 2 main types. One is heavy weaved, very stiff and 
stout, and another is much lighter.
So it depends what you want to use it for. I would say that the thinner 
quality, is useable, for bodices jackets and the likes, if you interline it 
with a stiffer fabric. The heavy sort is my ideal for costumes. Skirts 
drapes very beautifull with this.
Prices varies a lot here in Denmark. I can easy pay up to 1000,00 kr. wich 
is about 160 dollars a meter. This is a very fine silk shop, and you pay 
extra because they have a huge amount of colours and different kinds of silk 
fabrics to choose from
Another cheap fabric shop  sometimes have taffeta, but it is a lesser fine 
quality, but the same weight and stiffnes for about 25 dollars. Mostly they 
only carries the colours you choose for bridal wear, different whites. This 
sort has some weave faults, but only little.
Finally i found another shop wich sells this fine quality for 350,00 kr. 
wich is about 58 dollars, but they only have a little colour range.
Happy sewing to you two!

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2005 5:15 PM
Subject: [h-cost] OT-Question about Silk Taffeta


> Hello everyone,
>
> I was hoping that any of you who use silk taffeta in your costuming could
> help me......
>
> I have been told that dupioni is not really appropriate for historical
> costuming but I know that many of us use it to cut down on costs.  Taffeta
> is closer to the weave/weight/sheen that is appropriate for the 1500's
> through the 1800's but it is more expensive.
>
> I have a supplier that has a nice range of colored taffetas but I am not
> sure if the price is reasonable or not.
>
> If you use silk taffeta, what do you typically pay per yard for it?  What
> colors would you like to be able to find?  Any other input?  (Please
> respond to me at dch@inreach.com so that we don't clog up the list)
>
> Thanks for your help!  And if I can offer silk taffetas at good prices, I
> will do so.
>
> Happy Sewing,
>
> Diana
>
>
> www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
> "Everything for the Costumer"
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


_______________________________________________
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] hoops for crinoline dresses
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>can anyone give us advice on where we can get hooping material for crinoline
>dresses. Are they made of plastic or is it cloth covered wire and could
>anyone tell us where to get the appropriate materials please?

I'm fond of www.Greenberg-Hammer.com
Look for hoop wire in the boning section.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2005 9:36 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery supplies


> You got off easy ;-)  I shop the sale stuff once or twice a year, when
> there's enough to make a big order. I made an order last week; it came to
> $450.
>
> (Well, when you're at 90 strands or so, it makes sense to go for the even
> hundred and the 10 percent discount.)
>
> This is because I know I will return half for inadequate quality. I have
> learned how to work with their return policy! Of course, half of 100
> strands is still 50 strands...
>
> They're by no means my favorite vendor. My favorite is South Pacific.


I actually felt guilty spending that much--we are on a VERY tight budget, 
which is going to get tighter, since we just were told that we need to be 
out of our house within 30-60 days. (No, we didn;t do anything wrong. The 
house is owned by a mall company, and they are going to demolish it to put 
up a sign.) And my husband found out Monday that the radio station he works 
at was just sold to Cumulus. So, I think my fabric and gem buying is going 
to be severely limited for a while! (Thanks heavens I just indulged my wool 
yearnings recently!) Anyhoo, I considered just passing on the girdle for 
now, but I've been wanting one for  a long time, and I plan on entering this 
one in the East Kingdom A&S comp at 12th Night, so I need plenty of time to 
get it done!!

I haven't ordered from South Pacific yet, though I drool copiously over 
their catalogs.

Just waiting for the mailman to come to the door...

I was so good, and so focused--I wanted to make garb, and only garb. Then I 
made friends with a jeweler, and a spinner. Now I want to make the jewelry 
for all my garb, and spin and weave the wool, and use handspun silk as laces 
for my gowns..ACK!

Dianne 

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Subject: [h-cost] OT-Question about Silk Taffeta (Diana Habra)
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Dupioni (or something similar) was sold historically, so it CAN be used.
Here's a website about that:
http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/silk.html

But to answer your other questions, I like shot silks.  I'd like to
pay less than $15/yd for an 18mm taffeta.

Kate


> Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2005 08:15:06 -0800 (PST)
> From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] OT-Question about Silk Taffeta
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
> 	<1227.67.188.164.116.1131120906.squirrel@webmail.inreach.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> I was hoping that any of you who use silk taffeta in your costuming could
> help me......
> 
> I have been told that dupioni is not really appropriate for historical
> costuming but I know that many of us use it to cut down on costs.  Taffeta
> is closer to the weave/weight/sheen that is appropriate for the 1500's
> through the 1800's but it is more expensive.
> 
> I have a supplier that has a nice range of colored taffetas but I am not
> sure if the price is reasonable or not.
> 
> If you use silk taffeta, what do you typically pay per yard for it?  What
> colors would you like to be able to find?  Any other input?  (Please
> respond to me at dch@inreach.com so that we don't clog up the list)
> 
> Thanks for your help!  And if I can offer silk taffetas at good prices, I
> will do so.
> 
> Happy Sewing,
> 
> Diana
> 
> 
> www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
> "Everything for the Costumer"
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] older singer sewing machines
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I strongly recommend bringing your machine to a Singer
or multiple brands repair shop that isn't in a fabric
store.

My 1951 Singer cast-iron monstrosity got a new bobbin
case that fit only after I tried several; all the
bobbin cases were class 15, as is my machine, but the
cases are machined to very close tolerances, which
don't match every machine.  
The store isn't a store-front any more, or I would
recommend them highly.

Ann in CT

--- jessica lynn potter <mrscrinoline@aol.com> wrote:

>  
> 
>  hello everyone
> 
> we have a 1951 singer electric sewing machine, and
> its in reasonable
> condition, but we are in need of a new or decent
> bobbin case, 
> 
> machine style number is 201k3e
> 
> 
> 
> can anyone help with spares or know of any cheap
> reliable old machines i can
> buy 
> 
> thanks all
> 
> jessica
> 
> -------Original Message-------
> 
>  
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] OT-Question about Silk Taffeta
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I'd normally expect to pay anything from about 15 GBP (wholesale) or 25 GBP 
(retail) to over 200 GBP, depending on the weight, and where it's woven (obv. 
if woven in China or India it's cheaper than if Western European, because of 
lower labour cost).

(That's something like 25 USD - 350 USD.)


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT-Question about Silk Taffeta
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At 09:26 05/11/2005, you wrote:
>I'd normally expect to pay anything from about 15 GBP (wholesale) or 25 GBP
>(retail) to over 200 GBP, depending on the weight, and where it's woven (obv.
>if woven in China or India it's cheaper than if Western European, because of
>lower labour cost).
>
>(That's something like 25 USD - 350 USD.)


And how much you buy. It's always cheaper to buy 
in bulk. Also if you are buying by mail order, 
you have to factor in mailing costs, and the 
iniquitous VAT which goes on these as well as the 
goods. (Debs where do you buy at £15.00? Please 
mail me privately if you have time.)

Suzi



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] older singer sewing machines
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hey ann

thanks for that advice, yes i fully understand, i personally prefer the
older machines to the latest modern stuff, somehow, as they seem to suit me
better



hugs

jessica 

 

-------Original Message-------

 

From: Ann Catelli

Date: 11/04/05 14:57:56

To: Historical Costume

Subject: Re: [h-cost] older singer sewing machines

 

I strongly recommend bringing your machine to a Singer

or multiple brands repair shop that isn't in a fabric

store.

 

My 1951 Singer cast-iron monstrosity got a new bobbin

case that fit only after I tried several; all the

bobbin cases were class 15, as is my machine, but the

cases are machined to very close tolerances, which

don't match every machine.

The store isn't a store-front any more, or I would

recommend them highly.

 

Ann in CT

 

--- jessica lynn potter <mrscrinoline@aol.com> wrote:

 

>

>

>  hello everyone

>

> we have a 1951 singer electric sewing machine, and

> its in reasonable

> condition, but we are in need of a new or decent

> bobbin case,

>

> machine style number is 201k3e

>

>

>

> can anyone help with spares or know of any cheap

> reliable old machines i can

> buy

>

> thanks all

>

> jessica

>

> -------Original Message-------

>

>

> _______________________________________________

> h-costume mailing list

> h-costume@mail.indra.com

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>

 

 

 

 

 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] hoops for crinoline dresses
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hi cynthia

yes thanks that will be useful, as i am now embarking on hoopskirts for the
first time, and i expect to make a few disasters on he way this link will be
really useful. thank you

hugs

jessica 

 

-------Original Message-------

 

From: Cin

Date: 11/04/05 11:07:24

To: h-cost

Subject: [h-cost] hoops for crinoline dresses

 

>can anyone give us advice on where we can get hooping material for
crinoline

>dresses. Are they made of plastic or is it cloth covered wire and could

>anyone tell us where to get the appropriate materials please?

 

I'm fond of www.Greenberg-Hammer.com

Look for hoop wire in the boning section.

--cin

Cynthia Barnes

CinBarnes@gmail.com

 

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Subject: [h-cost] Hoops for Mother Ginger
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Hello all,
This is a 'Plantive Cry for Help' ....
Can anyone out there direct me to a site or give me some hints on the
best way to construct the giant hoop skirt needed for Mother Ginger in
Nutcracker?  The director would like a wide 18th Century oval/pannier
style that is big enough to hide 10 to 13 small children under it. 
(Mother herself will be standing on a ladder under the dress and will be
pulled across the stage on a dolly.)  Low cost and speed of construction
is, as always, a major consideration.  What would be sturdy enough not
to twist?  Or is that helped by putting actual panniers on the "hips"? 
Storage through the rest of the year is also  problematic.  If I used
the hoop connectors from Farthingales and their hoop steel, could I take
it apart after the performances and store it in pieces?

I'd greatly appreciate any help from anyone who's done this costume or
even peeked inside one!

Thanks
Kathy Hoover
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>(Debs where do you buy at £15.00? Please 
>mail me privately if you have time.)
>Suzi

I'd love to know too - if it is ok, could you tell me
too?! Pretty pretty please.

Katherine
de la finding reasonable wholesalers thin on the ground.

"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright


	
	
		
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Kathy Hoover wrote:

>  The director would like a wide 18th Century oval/pannier
> style that is big enough to hide 10 to 13 small children under it. 


Sounds like a tent. And for cheap tent supports we used to use plastic 
plumbing pipe and connectors from the hardware store. Goes together like 
tinkertoys. The thinner piping should be bendable, to a degree.



Dawn



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I'm looking at Simplicity 4566 
(http://www.simplicity.com/assets/4566/4566.jpg) and wondering if this 
is a decent pattern for the era. They show it as a wedding dress, but I 
was thinking about shortening the train some for practicality.



Dawn


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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <436D4D2B.6070805@reddawn.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1920-1930-ish gowns
Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2005 20:43:52 -0500
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Maybe I missed something, but for what era (and for what purpose)? The gown
shown is for the period of the 1930s and a very good likeness for two I have
in my collection.  The bridesmaid's gowns just "spill" with the train which
adds interest to the bias cut in back.
Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2005 7:24 PM
Subject: [h-cost] 1920-1930-ish gowns


> I'm looking at Simplicity 4566
> (http://www.simplicity.com/assets/4566/4566.jpg) and wondering if this
> is a decent pattern for the era. They show it as a wedding dress, but I
> was thinking about shortening the train some for practicality.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1920-1930-ish gowns
Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2005 20:35:37 -0600
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I was guessing the pattern looks late 30s. The 20s usually had a drop waist
or no waist.
I found this comes close to a late 20s.
http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/voguepatterns/shop.cgi?s.item.V8070=x&T
I=20009&page=1
This one is weak but passable for 20s.
http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M4995.htm?tab=costumes&page=1
20s style
http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.B4093=x&TI=10
013&page=5
Passable
http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/voguepatterns/shop.cgi?s.item.V7571=x&T
I=20003&page=8

-----Original Message-----
Maybe I missed something, but for what era (and for what purpose)? The gown
shown is for the period of the 1930s and a very good likeness for two I have
in my collection.  The bridesmaid's gowns just "spill" with the train which
adds interest to the bias cut in back.
Kathleen

----- Original Message -----
> I'm looking at Simplicity 4566
> (http://www.simplicity.com/assets/4566/4566.jpg) and wondering if this
> is a decent pattern for the era. They show it as a wedding dress, but I
> was thinking about shortening the train some for practicality.

> Dawn


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Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

> Maybe I missed something, but for what era (and for what purpose)? The gown
> shown is for the period of the 1930s and a very good likeness for two I have
> in my collection.  The bridesmaid's gowns just "spill" with the train which
> adds interest to the bias cut in back.
> Kathleen
>  

I'm not sure what you mean by 'bridesmaid's gowns', as this pattern 
doesn't have that option.

I was looking at using it for "Mobster and Movie Star" costumes at 
CostumeCon next spring. My husband has wanted an old time gangster 
outfit for a while, and I need something suitably slinky to wear with it.



Dawn


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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1920-1930-ish gowns
Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2005 00:05:01 -0500
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I have a set that includes the bridesmaids dresses made from the same
pattern...
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2005 10:01 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1920-1930-ish gowns


> Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
>
> > Maybe I missed something, but for what era (and for what purpose)? The
gown
> > shown is for the period of the 1930s and a very good likeness for two I
have
> > in my collection.  The bridesmaid's gowns just "spill" with the train
which
> > adds interest to the bias cut in back.
> > Kathleen
> >
>
> I'm not sure what you mean by 'bridesmaid's gowns', as this pattern
> doesn't have that option.
>
> I was looking at using it for "Mobster and Movie Star" costumes at
> CostumeCon next spring. My husband has wanted an old time gangster
> outfit for a while, and I need something suitably slinky to wear with it.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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If you are looking at the 1920s, The first Vogue pattern conforms best for
the necessary hipline, which should "touch" but not necessarily bind or
reveal.  The other two have some of the elements of the design but are too
retro and use far more fabric than the simplicity and economy of line that
is more faithful to the era.

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2005 9:35 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1920-1930-ish gowns


> I was guessing the pattern looks late 30s. The 20s usually had a drop
waist
> or no waist.
> I found this comes close to a late 20s.
>
http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/voguepatterns/shop.cgi?s.item.V8070=x&T
> I=20009&page=1
> This one is weak but passable for 20s.
> http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M4995.htm?tab=costumes&page=1
> 20s style
>
http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.B4093=x&TI=10
> 013&page=5
> Passable
>
http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/voguepatterns/shop.cgi?s.item.V7571=x&T
> I=20003&page=8
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Maybe I missed something, but for what era (and for what purpose)? The
gown
> shown is for the period of the 1930s and a very good likeness for two I
have
> in my collection.  The bridesmaid's gowns just "spill" with the train
which
> adds interest to the bias cut in back.
> Kathleen
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > I'm looking at Simplicity 4566
> > (http://www.simplicity.com/assets/4566/4566.jpg) and wondering if this
> > is a decent pattern for the era. They show it as a wedding dress, but I
> > was thinking about shortening the train some for practicality.
>
> > Dawn
>
>
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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1920-1930-ish gowns
Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2005 00:20:42 -0500
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Having just caught the 'occasion', the last Vogue is a good choice, I think
because it does treat the hips in the manner that evolves from the simpler
columnar line of the 20s.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2005 10:01 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1920-1930-ish gowns


> Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
>
> > Maybe I missed something, but for what era (and for what purpose)? The
gown
> > shown is for the period of the 1930s and a very good likeness for two I
have
> > in my collection.  The bridesmaid's gowns just "spill" with the train
which
> > adds interest to the bias cut in back.
> > Kathleen
> >
>
> I'm not sure what you mean by 'bridesmaid's gowns', as this pattern
> doesn't have that option.
>
> I was looking at using it for "Mobster and Movie Star" costumes at
> CostumeCon next spring. My husband has wanted an old time gangster
> outfit for a while, and I need something suitably slinky to wear with it.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Hoops for Mother Ginger
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Status: RO

The Mother Ginger costume for my daughter's ballet company has a
frame made from plastic plumbing pipe (the white kind, about 2-3" in
diameter).  It's a very large pannier shape, which is attached to a
suspender-type contraption.  (We have a very tall woman to play MG,
she also wears platform shoes.)  Our MG can hide about 10+/- kids
under her skirt.  The MG dress is in two pieces, the skirt which is
attached to the framework and the bodice which MG wears.  The skirt
has a basque to slide under the bodice to make it look like one
piece.

Hope that helps...
~mary


> From: "Kathy Hoover" <khoover@wvu.edu>
> Subject: [h-cost] Hoops for Mother Ginger
> 
> Hello all,
> This is a 'Plantive Cry for Help' ....
> Can anyone out there direct me to a site or give me some hints on
> the
> best way to construct the giant hoop skirt needed for Mother Ginger
> in
> Nutcracker?  The director would like a wide 18th Century
> oval/pannier
> style that is big enough to hide 10 to 13 small children under it. 
> (Mother herself will be standing on a ladder under the dress and
> will be
> pulled across the stage on a dolly.)  Low cost and speed of
> construction
> is, as always, a major consideration.  What would be sturdy enough
> not
> to twist?  Or is that helped by putting actual panniers on the
> "hips"? 
> Storage through the rest of the year is also  problematic.  If I
> used
> the hoop connectors from Farthingales and their hoop steel, could I
> take
> it apart after the performances and store it in pieces?
> 
> I'd greatly appreciate any help from anyone who's done this costume
> or
> even peeked inside one!
> 
> Thanks
> Kathy Hoover
> 
> 


"Pictures of perfection, as you know, make me sick & wicked."
~ Jane Austen

"Right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time.  I think I've forgotten this before."      ~ Steven Wright
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1920-1930-ish gowns
Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2005 01:02:36 -0600
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I was suggesting patterns to Dawn.
The first one does come close. I am in the planning stages with this one.
The lining will be black satin with a red semi opaque material with black
flocked(?) tendril design for the outer part. Trying to decide whether to
have the vee at the collar the red with a black satin insert or a black
satin vee with red insert. It's been a loooong while since I created sleeves
for a sleeveless dress pattern.
Anyway, the McCall's as I said is a weak design for the 20's but has
elements akin to Erte'.
The butterick is similar to a dress from a late 20s fashion plate. (Sorry,
don't have a URL, was just working on a design more then looking to make it
authentic) The underdress in the plate was a bit shorter and the sleeves
were slightly different.
The last Vogue has darts in the overdress and zipper in the back which I
have yet to see in a 20s era dress. The underdress is great.

De


-----Original Message-----
If you are looking at the 1920s, The first Vogue pattern conforms best for
the necessary hipline, which should "touch" but not necessarily bind or
reveal.  The other two have some of the elements of the design but are too
retro and use far more fabric than the simplicity and economy of line that
is more faithful to the era.

Kathleen



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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1920-1930-ish gowns
Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2005 01:42:48 -0600
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Look what I found 1934
http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/voguepatterns/shop.cgi?s.item.V2609=x&T
I=20006&page=2

1928
http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/voguepatterns/shop.cgi?s.item.V2535=x&T
I=20006&page=3

1931
http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/voguepatterns/shop.cgi?s.item.V2241=x&T
I=20006&page=3


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1920-1930-ish gowns
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otsisto wrote:

> Passable
> http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/voguepatterns/shop.cgi?s.item.V7571=x&T
> I=20003&page=8

Oooh, yummy! Thanks for the link, I wouldn't have thought to look at 
Vogue. I love the lace overlay and that it has a sleeved version. I get 
cold with exposed shoulders.



Dawn



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Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

> I have a set that includes the bridesmaids dresses made from the same
> pattern...
> Kathleen

Hmmn. I will have to take a better look at it next week when they go on 
sale. The pattern info on the website only shows yardage for one dress.


Dawn



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Have you looked at FolkWear? I just put the Monte Carlo dress--
http://www.folkwear.com/264.html
--up on stage on Lucy, in a 'twenties production of Dracula. In ivory satin, with ivory chiffon for the overpiece, it's very 'twenties, very slinky, very wow. I'd imagine those qualities would persist or even intensify in other colors!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
Sent: Nov 6, 2005 10:27 AM
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1920-1930-ish gowns

Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

> I have a set that includes the bridesmaids dresses made from the same
> pattern...
> Kathleen

Hmmn. I will have to take a better look at it next week when they go on 
sale. The pattern info on the website only shows yardage for one dress.


Dawn



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Subject: [h-cost] 17th century beaded bodice
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Hello all!
   I usually just lurk and love reading the posts, but came across
   an item I figured one of you knowledgable persons might know
   more about. I found an article on the net ...

  http://tinyurl.com/brxjg
    -or-   http://www.culture.gov.uk/global/press_notices/ 
archive_2004/dcms136_04.htm ...

   It talks about a pink satin bodice (c1640-1650) with a surface design
   of bugle beads worked into sprays of overlapping feathers. This
   sounded fascinating as there are so few examples of clothing
   from this time, but I can't find any more information, much less
   pictures of it. It's English, and the British arts minister placed a
   temporary export bar on it at the time. There is contact #s at the  
bottom
   of the page for inquiries, but I have yet to want to call long  
distance and
   I guess if no one here knows anything I could email them to see if  
they
   have updated info...
Hopefully, one of the links will work!
    Thanks for any help,
    Debbie Callahan :)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th century beaded bodice
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Hi Debbie,
Gosh this must be an unknown bodice to us! I have never seen or heard of it 
before. Also beading and feather pattern, is very interresting, and pink 
two. My guess is that it looks similar to the pale blue bodice of the London 
museum. It is a joy to all of us, that events like this still is happening, 
to fill out the gashes of mystery.
Yesterday i was at an antique fair in Copenhagen (huge one) and found a 
german costume book, wich i never have seen before. Its from 1919, and even 
that the black and white pictures are lousy, they are very valuable to 
me.There is a drawing in it of the caraco jacket in Köhlers book, both the 
front and the back, and a striped redingote with huge buttons from the late 
years, and and........
Most of the costumes, are german from collektions wich dont excist any more. 
The eldest garment is a mans italian renaissance doublet, with multi puffed 
sleaves. I never saw
that either, it is mid 16th century and the book claims it is a mixture of 
the italian and spanish fashion.
Title of the book is Kostümkunde für samler.
Thanks for posting this, i would die to se a picture of that bodice, and i 
hope it will be sold to a museum, so that we shall get more informations of 
it.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Max Callahan" <mcallahan@cox.net>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 8:34 AM
Subject: [h-cost] 17th century beaded bodice


> Hello all!
>   I usually just lurk and love reading the posts, but came across
>   an item I figured one of you knowledgable persons might know
>   more about. I found an article on the net ...
>
>  http://tinyurl.com/brxjg
>    -or-   http://www.culture.gov.uk/global/press_notices/ 
> archive_2004/dcms136_04.htm ...
>
>   It talks about a pink satin bodice (c1640-1650) with a surface design
>   of bugle beads worked into sprays of overlapping feathers. This
>   sounded fascinating as there are so few examples of clothing
>   from this time, but I can't find any more information, much less
>   pictures of it. It's English, and the British arts minister placed a
>   temporary export bar on it at the time. There is contact #s at the 
> bottom
>   of the page for inquiries, but I have yet to want to call long  distance 
> and
>   I guess if no one here knows anything I could email them to see if  they
>   have updated info...
> Hopefully, one of the links will work!
>    Thanks for any help,
>    Debbie Callahan :)
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th century beaded bodice
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One of the footnotes at the bottom of the article says, "Pictures of 
this item can be downloaded free of charge from our site on PA 
Picselect.  Please go to the DCMS folder situated within the Arts 
section of Picselect either at http://www.papicselect.com/ or through 
the PA bulleting board. "  I assume that last was meant to be "bulletin 
board."  PA Picselect said there were 0 images in the DCMS folder, and 
so far I haven't been able to locate the PA bulletin board.

Anyone else have better luck?  I'm very interested to see this bodice!

Melanie

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th century beaded bodice
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2005 14:58:48 +0100
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Hi,
Could it be because the bodice was sold last year, and they have then 
removed the picture for more bandwidth?
What happened to the bodice, who baught it?
I think the list is very quiet, are everybody making hooliday gift exchages? 
I am, almost finished with mine!

Bjarne who cant postpictures, it is a seacret you know!

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Melanie Schuessler" <melanie@faucet.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 1:50 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th century beaded bodice


> One of the footnotes at the bottom of the article says, "Pictures of this 
> item can be downloaded free of charge from our site on PA Picselect. 
> Please go to the DCMS folder situated within the Arts section of Picselect 
> either at http://www.papicselect.com/ or through the PA bulleting board. " 
> I assume that last was meant to be "bulletin board."  PA Picselect said 
> there were 0 images in the DCMS folder, and so far I haven't been able to 
> locate the PA bulletin board.
>
> Anyone else have better luck?  I'm very interested to see this bodice!
>
> Melanie
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2005 09:11:45 +0000
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th century beaded bodice
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I would love to see a picture of this. I see it was more than a year ago, but I've never heard of it before.
 
Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> mcallahan@cox.net 07/11/2005 07:34 >>>

Hello all!
   I usually just lurk and love reading the posts, but came across
   an item I figured one of you knowledgable persons might know
   more about. I found an article on the net ...

  http://tinyurl.com/brxjg
    -or-   http://www.culture.gov.uk/global/press_notices/ 
archive_2004/dcms136_04.htm ...

   It talks about a pink satin bodice (c1640-1650) with a surface design
   of bugle beads worked into sprays of overlapping feathers. This
   sounded fascinating as there are so few examples of clothing
   from this time, but I can't find any more information, much less
   pictures of it. It's English, and the British arts minister placed a
   temporary export bar on it at the time. There is contact #s at the  
bottom
   of the page for inquiries, but I have yet to want to call long  
distance and
   I guess if no one here knows anything I could email them to see if  
they
   have updated info...
Hopefully, one of the links will work!
    Thanks for any help,
    Debbie Callahan :)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th century beaded bodice
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You did better than I did.  I couldn't find either the folder or the 
bulletin board.  I just registered for the site too.  Waiting to get 
confirmation.

Melanie Schuessler wrote:

> One of the footnotes at the bottom of the article says, "Pictures of 
> this item can be downloaded free of charge from our site on PA 
> Picselect.  Please go to the DCMS folder situated within the Arts 
> section of Picselect either at http://www.papicselect.com/ or through 
> the PA bulleting board. "  I assume that last was meant to be 
> "bulletin board."  PA Picselect said there were 0 images in the DCMS 
> folder, and so far I haven't been able to locate the PA bulletin board.
>
> Anyone else have better luck?  I'm very interested to see this bodice!
>
> Melanie
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
I ju
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th century beaded bodice
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Re this bodice that may (or not be 17th C...)


I just entered the" picselect" site that someone reports as a visual source
for look-see and also did not see a reference for the picture we are
interested in.  Since this seems to be a film outlet, my suspicion is that
this bodice is someone's fantasy.  I too have never seen" bugles' and
'feathers' as a design feature for this period.

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Max Callahan" <mcallahan@cox.net>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 2:34 AM
Subject: [h-cost] 17th century beaded bodice


> Hello all!
>    I usually just lurk and love reading the posts, but came across
>    an item I figured one of you knowledgable persons might know
>    more about. I found an article on the net ...
>
>   http://tinyurl.com/brxjg
>     -or-   http://www.culture.gov.uk/global/press_notices/
> archive_2004/dcms136_04.htm ...
>
>    It talks about a pink satin bodice (c1640-1650) with a surface design
>    of bugle beads worked into sprays of overlapping feathers. This
>    sounded fascinating as there are so few examples of clothing
>    from this time, but I can't find any more information, much less
>    pictures of it. It's English, and the British arts minister placed a
>    temporary export bar on it at the time. There is contact #s at the
> bottom
>    of the page for inquiries, but I have yet to want to call long
> distance and
>    I guess if no one here knows anything I could email them to see if
> they
>    have updated info...
> Hopefully, one of the links will work!
>     Thanks for any help,
>     Debbie Callahan :)
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th century beaded bodice
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I've have been contacted by the folks at Picselect for further 
information on my attempt to register...I will let you know what they 
decide!

Sg
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Picselect no longer has the images.  I have sent an email to the Dept. 
of Media, Art and Sport to see what else they can tell us.  I'll keep 
you updated.

Sg

WickedFrau wrote:

> I've have been contacted by the folks at Picselect for further 
> information on my attempt to register...I will let you know what they 
> decide!
>
> Sg
> _______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th century beaded bodice
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The bodice is not a fantasy, since we have a government press release 
saying it has been held back from export (I don't believe everything the 
government tells us, but I don't think press officers make things up 
that are so far from the headlines).  Since the owner is not identified, 
I would guess it is from a private collection and may never have been 
displayed or referenced.  The "picselect" site seems to belong to the 
Press Association, so maybe they just put pictures up for a short time 
while they are current.

Jean


Lloyd Mitchell <rmitchell@washjeff.edu> wrote
>Re this bodice that may (or not be 17th C...)
>
>
>I just entered the" picselect" site that someone reports as a visual source
>for look-see and also did not see a reference for the picture we are
>interested in.  Since this seems to be a film outlet, my suspicion is that
>this bodice is someone's fantasy.  I too have never seen" bugles' and
>'feathers' as a design feature for this period.
>
>Kathleen
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Max Callahan" <mcallahan@cox.net>
>To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
>Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 2:34 AM
>Subject: [h-cost] 17th century beaded bodice
>
>
>> Hello all!
>>    I usually just lurk and love reading the posts, but came across
>>    an item I figured one of you knowledgable persons might know
>>    more about. I found an article on the net ...
>>
>>   http://tinyurl.com/brxjg
>>     -or-   http://www.culture.gov.uk/global/press_notices/
>> archive_2004/dcms136_04.htm ...
>>
>>    It talks about a pink satin bodice (c1640-1650) with a surface design
>>    of bugle beads worked into sprays of overlapping feathers. This
>>    sounded fascinating as there are so few examples of clothing
>>    from this time, but I can't find any more information, much less
>>    pictures of it. It's English, and the British arts minister placed a
>>    temporary export bar on it at the time. There is contact #s at the
>> bottom
>>    of the page for inquiries, but I have yet to want to call long
>> distance and
>>    I guess if no one here knows anything I could email them to see if
>> they
>>    have updated info...
>> Hopefully, one of the links will work!
>>     Thanks for any help,
>>     Debbie Callahan :)
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>_______________________________________________
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Nov  7 15:38:55 2005
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To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
From: Max Callahan <mcallahan@cox.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th century beaded bodice
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2005 12:36:41 -0800
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   Thanks for the quick replies everyone! I'm fascinated that there may
be this newly found piece out there somewhere that might add clues
as to construction and technique. Makes me think of a Costume
College I went to and Sally Queen was teaching. She said something
akin to the fact that every time she made a new discovery about
costumes that it felt like Christmas! I so agree! : D
   I hope that if this is the real thing, it turns up where we can  
see pictures
of it ...(hopefully yummy close-up ones)
    -Debbie Callahan


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From: "Jeanine E. Swick" <jeanine@woollycat.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1920-1930-ish gowns
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