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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<20051231153013.73cjd3wknnvos00k@www.goldsword.com>
Subject: multiple copies Re: [h-cost] Re: Have you seen this painting?
Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2006 12:21:39 +1300
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> I think you've nailed it spot on (as my overseas friends would say).
> Every now and then you'll see a painter do more than one copy of a
> given painting that's slightly different -- Artemesia Gentilishi's
> "Judith with the head of Holofernes" comes to mind.  You'll often see a
> student copy a teacher -- I've seen them, but I can't call them to mind.

Holbein's Jane Seymour for instance;)
http://www.artcyclopedia.com/commons/hans-holbein-the-younger.html
(Though there is a third somewhere.)

Corneille de Lyon painted a few copies of a girl. I'll see if I can hunt
them all down.
http://www.clevelandart.org/oci/magnify/1942/1942.48.jpg
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/gggg2165b.jpg
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/refo/hod_29.100.197.htm (though there are
some larger differences bwtween this and the other two.)

The Cranach family painted Hercules at the Court of Ophale several times.
I have a few copies linked online, but I have found more.
http://www.artunframed.com/cranach2.htm
http://www.museothyssen.org/museovirtual/fichas/obraampliada.asp?codigo=468
(will resize your window)

http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/gabriuscran.htm
A few on Gabrius.

http://www.internationalauctioneers.com/int/lot_detail.asp?LotID=207&AucID=5885
Though this is an imitator.


And let's not go near the multitudinous Salomes and Judiths which were
excuses to paint pretty girls (from imagination I'm sure.)

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Sharon Nevin <sharon.nevin@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: multiple copies Re: [h-cost] Re: Have you seen this
  painting?
In-Reply-To: <008901c60e60$f8987c70$0401010a@michaela>
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At 10:21 AM 1/01/2006, you wrote:

>Holbein's Jane Seymour for instance;)
>http://www.artcyclopedia.com/commons/hans-holbein-the-younger.html
>(Though there is a third somewhere.)

I thought there was four?  IIRC Janet Arnold in a Handbook of Costume has 
the different portraits side by side.

Sharon Nevin 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Dec 31 20:53:53 2005
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Bosoms
Date: Sat, 31 Dec 2005 18:59:50 -0700
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Just a bit of wondering....In addition to Sheer Bad Taste (tm) and
inaccurate information on the part of a fair number of modern reenactors and
RenFairies, could some of the TOAP effect be coming from our larger bodies?
I'm not referring to the largely mythical
we're-so-much-taller-than-they-were idea, but the reality of a lot of 21st
century Americans being, well, *koff* heavier than optimal health would have
us.  Myself included, so no slam meant.  You get somebody who's well-endowed
to begin with, like me, and add some overweight to it, and I *can't* avoid
having a shelf.  Even in a modern bra, I've got a shelf.  In a corset,
though, it's quite a bit more obvious, especially when compared to the same
area on a woman less rounded and endowed.
The best (historical) support I've had that didn't present a huge shelf was
the shell for the fitted gown from Robin's workshop.  I suspect that's from
a different sort of support/compression going on than with a corset.
Oh, and Happy New Year, everyone! ;o)
--Sue in foggy-drippy Montana

----- Original Message -----
From: <aquazoo@patriot.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2005 2:08 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Bosoms


>
> > I think of the melons on a platter in the 18th Century, not Elizabethan,
> > as the corsets are shaped differently.  The Renn and Elizabethan are
> > more tubular in shape to the 18thC cone shape that gives you a higher
> > bustline. That and the 18thC women showed them off a bit more than
> > earlier women, what with the partlets of the earliers times.
>
>      It depends on what you mean by melons on a platter.  In both time
> periods, I think you see a lot more at Ren Faires and reenactments
> than the ideal for the time period.  18thC is supposed to produce
> "pleasing mounds", and I have not seen paintings where they show a
> cleavage line (the actual line from breasts pressed together).
> Winterthur Museum in Delaware has a portrait of a lady who is rather
> large busted, and still no line!  Bet she wasn't like that in real
> life, but we're talking about the ideal.
>
>      And while Elizabethans had partlets, 18thC have handkerchiefs, a
> folded square or triangle of cloth that covers the shoulders and
> bosom.  Sometimes they were sheer and some were embroidered.  Wearing
> one depended on time of day and age.  They protect from the sun, and
> young women would tend to go without while those with wrinkles could
> keep covered.
>
>      And in both centuries there was a gamut of class distinctions,
> ethnicities, yadda yadda.
>
>      -Carol


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Subject: [h-cost] Looking for a fabric store in MI
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Hello,

I was told there is an absolutely amazing fabric store in Bay City, 
Michigan.  The friend who told me about it couldn't recall the store 
name.  I was wondering if anyone on this board would be able to help me 
out?  I'm not from Michigan, but have been considering a trip and would 
love to make a visit to "an amazing fabric store".  Does this ring a bell 
for anyone and if you may know of the store could you also include an 
approximate location if you're able?  There's such a wide expanse of 
knowledge on this list, I just thought it might be worth asking.

Thanks so much!
Dawn


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Subject: [h-cost] bosoms was: Have you seen this painting?
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Tubular to me means straight like a toilet paper roll. Elizabethan is cone.
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth15.jpg
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth25.jpg
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth.jpg

my def. on MoaP
this is not (though loud) MoaP
http://photobucket.com/albums/v314/Maestro01/PSClaudeandPetronella/?action=v
iew&current=PC36.jpg

It's when the bodice is cinched in such a way that the bosoms have no room
but to pop out.
http://www.printroom.com/ViewGalleryPhoto.asp?userid=jmstrange&gallery_id=25
2009&image_id=11
Though these are wenches, I have seen women suppose to be nobility and
looking like tarts.
http://photobucket.com/albums/v314/Maestro01/CommercialShoot/?action=view&cu
rrent=Commercial95.jpg
This isn't as bad as I have seen in the past.
Now I have no problem MoaPs except that it has become the belief that this
was the norm for women of that century. This is not saying that the blooming
bosom wasn't seen but it wasn't common.

De

-----Original Message-----
> am not really wanting the "melons on a platter" as some >said earlier.

Hi Becky,
I think of the melons on a platter in the 18th Century, not Elizabethan, as
the corsets are shaped differently.  The Renn and Elizabethan are more
tubular in shape to the 18thC cone shape that gives you a higher bustline.
That and the 18thC women showed them off a bit more than earlier women, what
with the partlets of the earliers times.

Kelly/Estela


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The big bosom thing is something I've been wondering about for a while too. I've seen very few portraits, if any, that show women with large breasts pre-19th C even in portraits where the women are robust. 

Clothing styles definately didn't encourage large bosoms, I know a lot of women who have trouble making garb that fits. They either use a princess style cut, which isn't appropriate, or squish themselves (which is not flattering or, I imagine, comfortable)

Could large breasts be a modern occurance? Our food is pumped full of hormones and other chemicals. In the last few decades, girls are physically maturing faster than they used too. My friends and I started menstrating around 14-15 years old, now girls are 11-12. 

In the past, ideal beauty may have been small breasts as compared to now, where bigger is not big enough (I was so born in the wrong century); but not all portraits were idealized.

Wendy


 --- On Sat 12/31, Sue Clemenger < mooncat@in-tch.com > wrote:
From: Sue Clemenger [mailto: mooncat@in-tch.com]
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Sat, 31 Dec 2005 18:59:50 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Bosoms

Just a bit of wondering....In addition to Sheer Bad Taste (tm) and<br>inaccurate information on the part of a fair number of modern reenactors and<br>RenFairies, could some of the TOAP effect be coming from our larger bodies?<br>I'm not referring to the largely mythical<br>we're-so-much-taller-than-they-were idea, but the reality of a lot of 21st<br>century Americans being, well, *koff* heavier than optimal health would have<br>us.  Myself included, so no slam meant.  You get somebody who's well-endowed<br>to begin with, like me, and add some overweight to it, and I *can't* avoid<br>having a shelf.  Even in a modern bra, I've got a shelf.  In a corset,<br>though, it's quite a bit more obvious, especially when compared to the same<br>area on a woman less rounded and endowed.<br>The best (historical) support I've had that didn't present a huge shelf was<br>the shell for the fitted gown from Robin's workshop.  I suspect that's from<br>a different sort of support/compression 
going on than with a corset.<br>Oh, and Happy New Year, everyone! ;o)<br>--Sue in foggy-drippy Montana<br><br>----- Original Message -----<br>From: <aquazoo@patriot.net><br>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com><br>Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2005 2:08 PM<br>Subject: [h-cost] Re: Bosoms<br><br><br>><br>> > I think of the melons on a platter in the 18th Century, not Elizabethan,<br>> > as the corsets are shaped differently.  The Renn and Elizabethan are<br>> > more tubular in shape to the 18thC cone shape that gives you a higher<br>> > bustline. That and the 18thC women showed them off a bit more than<br>> > earlier women, what with the partlets of the earliers times.<br>><br>>      It depends on what you mean by melons on a platter.  In both time<br>> periods, I think you see a lot more at Ren Faires and reenactments<br>> than the ideal for the time period.  18thC is supposed to produce<br>> "pleasing mounds", and I have not seen paintings where they show a<br>> 
cleavage line (the actual line from breasts pressed together).<br>> Winterthur Museum in Delaware has a portrait of a lady who is rather<br>> large busted, and still no line!  Bet she wasn't like that in real<br>> life, but we're talking about the ideal.<br>><br>>      And while Elizabethans had partlets, 18thC have handkerchiefs, a<br>> folded square or triangle of cloth that covers the shoulders and<br>> bosom.  Sometimes they were sheer and some were embroidered.  Wearing<br>> one depended on time of day and age.  They protect from the sun, and<br>> young women would tend to go without while those with wrinkles could<br>> keep covered.<br>><br>>      And in both centuries there was a gamut of class distinctions,<br>> ethnicities, yadda yadda.<br>><br>>      -Carol<br><br><br>_______________________________________________<br>h-costume mailing list<br>h-costume@mail.indra.com<br>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<br>

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From: Alex Doyle <garbaholic@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Bosoms
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Another thought also is, could the English women of the 16th century been more likely to be less endowed as a general trait?  I wonder sometimes if this was the reason that the corset was an okay thing for the English, while other areas of the world at that time, like the Germans were developing a soft line that allowed the curved of the bust, and is easier for the more well endowed to wear.

  alex
Wendy <emmajean@myway.com> wrote:
  
The big bosom thing is something I've been wondering about for a while too. I've seen very few portraits, if any, that show women with large breasts pre-19th C even in portraits where the women are robust. 

Clothing styles definately didn't encourage large bosoms, I know a lot of women who have trouble making garb that fits. They either use a princess style cut, which isn't appropriate, or squish themselves (which is not flattering or, I imagine, comfortable)

Could large breasts be a modern occurance? Our food is pumped full of hormones and other chemicals. In the last few decades, girls are physically maturing faster than they used too. My friends and I started menstrating around 14-15 years old, now girls are 11-12. 

In the past, ideal beauty may have been small breasts as compared to now, where bigger is not big enough (I was so born in the wrong century); but not all portraits were idealized.

Wendy


--- On Sat 12/31, Sue Clemenger < mooncat@in-tch.com > wrote:
From: Sue Clemenger [mailto: mooncat@in-tch.com]
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Sat, 31 Dec 2005 18:59:50 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Bosoms

Just a bit of wondering....In addition to Sheer Bad Taste (tm) and
inaccurate information on the part of a fair number of modern reenactors and
RenFairies, could some of the TOAP effect be coming from our larger bodies?
I'm not referring to the largely mythical
we're-so-much-taller-than-they-were idea, but the reality of a lot of 21st
century Americans being, well, *koff* heavier than optimal health would have
us. Myself included, so no slam meant. You get somebody who's well-endowed
to begin with, like me, and add some overweight to it, and I *can't* avoid
having a shelf. Even in a modern bra, I've got a shelf. In a corset,
though, it's quite a bit more obvious, especially when compared to the same
area on a woman less rounded and endowed.
The best (historical) support I've had that didn't present a huge shelf was
the shell for the fitted gown from Robin's workshop. I suspect that's from
a different sort of support/compression 
going on than with a corset.
Oh, and Happy New Year, everyone! ;o)
--Sue in foggy-drippy Montana

----- Original Message -----
From: 
To: "Historical Costume" 
Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2005 2:08 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Bosoms


>
> > I think of the melons on a platter in the 18th Century, not Elizabethan,
> > as the corsets are shaped differently. The Renn and Elizabethan are
> > more tubular in shape to the 18thC cone shape that gives you a higher
> > bustline. That and the 18thC women showed them off a bit more than
> > earlier women, what with the partlets of the earliers times.
>
> It depends on what you mean by melons on a platter. In both time
> periods, I think you see a lot more at Ren Faires and reenactments
> than the ideal for the time period. 18thC is supposed to produce
> "pleasing mounds", and I have not seen paintings where they show a
> 
cleavage line (the actual line from breasts pressed together).
> Winterthur Museum in Delaware has a portrait of a lady who is rather
> large busted, and still no line! Bet she wasn't like that in real
> life, but we're talking about the ideal.
>
> And while Elizabethans had partlets, 18thC have handkerchiefs, a
> folded square or triangle of cloth that covers the shoulders and
> bosom. Sometimes they were sheer and some were embroidered. Wearing
> one depended on time of day and age. They protect from the sun, and
> young women would tend to go without while those with wrinkles could
> keep covered.
>
> And in both centuries there was a gamut of class distinctions,
> ethnicities, yadda yadda.
>
> -Carol


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Bosoms
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>  You get somebody who's well-endowed
> to begin with, like me, and add some overweight to it, >and I *can't* 
> avoid
> having a shelf.  Even in a modern bra, I've got a shelf.  >In a corset,
> though, it's quite a bit more obvious, especially when >compared to the 
> same
> area on a woman less rounded and endowed.

I can understand your point. We are a bit heavier in general, but I think 
it'd effect the cleavage line than anything.

You are getting a shelf in you corset because it doesn't fit quite right, 
comercial pattern?  Your modern bra is because of the same problem.  Often 
times comercial pattern makers will scale up from the perfect sixe 12 
manikin.  Not many people are that perfect.  Store bought bras are the same 
way.  They don't actually make my size in bra...a 34DDD1/2, so I usually 
have the four boob effect, or the band moves around too much, or I alter.

For your corset, try raising the front a bit.  Make a mock up, too long in 
height from the armhole depth line up.  Try it on, adjust where you want 
your breasts to sit, and then get someone else to mark your top of corset 
line. You should have a nice rounding, but no spillage/shelving.

Hope that helps, and I'm not offending anyone.
Kelly/estela 
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From: "Beth Chamberlain" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Bosoms
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Status: RO

A few years ago I read a research study discussing the effects of diet on
body shape, if I remember right it was about modern diet but touched on
historic times (I might have that reversed) today's diet is much higher in
fat (which we don't burn off) and women do in fact have proportionally
larger breasts. I believe if you look at older standardized size charts that
can be confirmed. Combine that with the numerous chemicals which we consume
with estrogen-like properties and it really does seem like breasts are
getting larger. Look at a bunch of 16 years old girls - twig thin and huge
bustlines, my friends didn't look like that 25 years ago. One of the
differences between the early American diet and the European diet was also
the amount of fat (more meat being available to the average person in the
U.S. in the 18th & 19th centuries). Supposedly the first generation of women
raised here had larger breast than their mother's did, one generation is too
fast for it to be genetic. I'll see if I can find the article so I've got
citations.

Beth

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Wendy
Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2006 11:20 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Bosoms


The big bosom thing is something I've been wondering about for a while too.
I've seen very few portraits, if any, that show women with large breasts
pre-19th C even in portraits where the women are robust. 

Clothing styles definately didn't encourage large bosoms, I know a lot of
women who have trouble making garb that fits. They either use a princess
style cut, which isn't appropriate, or squish themselves (which is not
flattering or, I imagine, comfortable)

Could large breasts be a modern occurance? Our food is pumped full of
hormones and other chemicals. In the last few decades, girls are physically
maturing faster than they used too. My friends and I started menstrating
around 14-15 years old, now girls are 11-12. 

In the past, ideal beauty may have been small breasts as compared to now,
where bigger is not big enough (I was so born in the wrong century); but not
all portraits were idealized.

Wendy


 --- On Sat 12/31, Sue Clemenger < mooncat@in-tch.com > wrote:
From: Sue Clemenger [mailto: mooncat@in-tch.com]
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Sat, 31 Dec 2005 18:59:50 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Bosoms

Just a bit of wondering....In addition to Sheer Bad Taste (tm)
and<br>inaccurate information on the part of a fair number of modern
reenactors and<br>RenFairies, could some of the TOAP effect be coming from
our larger bodies?<br>I'm not referring to the largely
mythical<br>we're-so-much-taller-than-they-were idea, but the reality of a
lot of 21st<br>century Americans being, well, *koff* heavier than optimal
health would have<br>us.  Myself included, so no slam meant.  You get
somebody who's well-endowed<br>to begin with, like me, and add some
overweight to it, and I *can't* avoid<br>having a shelf.  Even in a modern
bra, I've got a shelf.  In a corset,<br>though, it's quite a bit more
obvious, especially when compared to the same<br>area on a woman less
rounded and endowed.<br>The best (historical) support I've had that didn't
present a huge shelf was<br>the shell for the fitted gown from Robin's
workshop.  I suspect that's from<br>a different sort of support/compression 
going on than with a corset.<br>Oh, and Happy New Year, everyone!
;o)<br>--Sue in foggy-drippy Montana<br><br>----- Original Message
-----<br>From: <aquazoo@patriot.net><br>To: "Historical Costume"
<h-costume@indra.com><br>Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2005 2:08
PM<br>Subject: [h-cost] Re: Bosoms<br><br><br>><br>> > I think of the melons
on a platter in the 18th Century, not Elizabethan,<br>> > as the corsets are
shaped differently.  The Renn and Elizabethan are<br>> > more tubular in
shape to the 18thC cone shape that gives you a higher<br>> > bustline. That
and the 18thC women showed them off a bit more than<br>> > earlier women,
what with the partlets of the earliers times.<br>><br>>      It depends on
what you mean by melons on a platter.  In both time<br>> periods, I think
you see a lot more at Ren Faires and reenactments<br>> than the ideal for
the time period.  18thC is supposed to produce<br>> "pleasing mounds", and I
have not seen paintings where they show a<br>> 
cleavage line (the actual line from breasts pressed together).<br>>
Winterthur Museum in Delaware has a portrait of a lady who is rather<br>>
large busted, and still no line!  Bet she wasn't like that in real<br>>
life, but we're talking about the ideal.<br>><br>>      And while
Elizabethans had partlets, 18thC have handkerchiefs, a<br>> folded square or
triangle of cloth that covers the shoulders and<br>> bosom.  Sometimes they
were sheer and some were embroidered.  Wearing<br>> one depended on time of
day and age.  They protect from the sun, and<br>> young women would tend to
go without while those with wrinkles could<br>> keep covered.<br>><br>>
And in both centuries there was a gamut of class distinctions,<br>>
ethnicities, yadda yadda.<br>><br>>
-Carol<br><br><br>_______________________________________________<br>h-costu
me mailing
list<br>h-costume@mail.indra.com<br>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h
-costume<br>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Bosoms
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Status: RO

Uh, nope.  Custom-made corset (by me, and it's fair to say that I know what
I'm doing with 16th century costuming, at least for myself...got recognized
for it mumblety-mumble years ago with an SCA peerage).  It's more the effect
that proper lift and support will have on a 56G chest.  <weg>
I do get minor spillage (*koff*) if the outfit I'm wearing isn't properly
fitted, or if I've wiggled the corset too low, but the shelf's there,
regardless.  There's just too much to squish flat into the proper 16th
century silhouette.  Or 21st century, for that matter.  I'm not quite this
large (thank goodness!) at a lower weight, but structurally, the ratio
remains the same.
No offense taken, either, over your advice.  Many of us appreciate hearing
about different fitting techniques! ;o)
--Sue


----- Original Message -----
From: "kelly grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2006 8:35 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Bosoms


> >  You get somebody who's well-endowed
> > to begin with, like me, and add some overweight to it, >and I *can't*
> > avoid
> > having a shelf.  Even in a modern bra, I've got a shelf.  >In a corset,
> > though, it's quite a bit more obvious, especially when >compared to the
> > same
> > area on a woman less rounded and endowed.
>
> I can understand your point. We are a bit heavier in general, but I think
> it'd effect the cleavage line than anything.
>
> You are getting a shelf in you corset because it doesn't fit quite right,
> comercial pattern?  Your modern bra is because of the same problem.  Often
> times comercial pattern makers will scale up from the perfect sixe 12
> manikin.  Not many people are that perfect.  Store bought bras are the
same
> way.  They don't actually make my size in bra...a 34DDD1/2, so I usually
> have the four boob effect, or the band moves around too much, or I alter.
>
> For your corset, try raising the front a bit.  Make a mock up, too long in
> height from the armhole depth line up.  Try it on, adjust where you want
> your breasts to sit, and then get someone else to mark your top of corset
> line. You should have a nice rounding, but no spillage/shelving.
>
> Hope that helps, and I'm not offending anyone.
> Kelly/estela


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Status: RO

Bjarne:

It could be exactly as you see it - Three buttons closing it at the top, and
one or two closing it at the waist.  Note that the entire body of the
doublet is slashed into panes.

You see this quite a lot in German woodcuts of the era, and not a few
English portraits - Although in both cases this kind of closure tends to
appear on leather jerkins.

I've actually made a jerkin in this manner.  It closes with a point at the
waist, and two points at the top.  Works quite well.  The gaps between the
panes open and close to show the doublet below.

Of course it is possible that in the portrait in question the doublet is
mimicking this style.  Since the image is in black & white it's difficult to
know what the full details are.

Best Guess:  Either exactly what you see, or hidden hooks and eyes.  Would
depend on the effect trying to be achieved.

Nicholas Worthington


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Joan Jurancich
Sent: Friday, December 30, 2005 5:22 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Man's Doublet closure, was Re: [h-cost] Have you seen this
painting?


At 02:05 PM 12/30/2005, you wrote:
>Hi,
>I stumped over this stunning mans renaissance clothes.
>How is his doublet buttoned down the front. I only se 3 buttons at
>the top, where is the rest?
>Is it laced at the back?
>
>http://www.asn-ibk.ac.at/bildung/faecher/geschichte/maike/treffpunkt/abb81a
.htm
>
>Bjarne


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Subject: [h-cost] corset construction help
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Status: RO

When constructing a corset, you really have to start with a good fitting basic block.  This first step is crucial to obtaining a good fit in the final dress stage.  Some commercial pattern companies still carry block, or slopers in their line.  Build one in cotton muslin and get it fitted, by someone else. It is essential to have someone else take your measurments and do the fittings. No matter how much experience you have, or how much education or training you have, it is physically impossible to do accurate measurements on your own body.

Once you have this block, you can then begin to develope your corset pattern to fit you. Norah Waugh's "Corsets and Crinolines" and Robert Doyle's "Waisted Efforts" have good methods for determining the pattern, but you can also use the diagram of a period corset as a guide, and remove darts to achieve the desired look.

If you have a large bustline, it may be necessary to carve out an 'armhole' along the top edge, and raise that top edge over the center front/bust area.  It really is that easy to prevent spilling over.  A good shoulder strap, well placed will add to the support needed.  Tabbed corsets are much more comfortable to wear over the waist and hipline.

I am willing to help anyone with corset problems. I want to help stamp out any myths about uncomfortable corsets. Properly fitted and constructed corsets are comfortable.  I teach historical tailoring and cutting for the modern body.

Kelly Grant
Dalhousie University Costume Studies dept.
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] holiday exchange gifts
Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2006 00:46:13 +0000
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   I would like to thank Joanne Jones for the lovely gifts that she sent me.  She gifted me with a blackwork book, black silk thread to do blackwork with (wonderful thread, Joanne!), and a paternoster (it's even made up of the colors of my device).

    The gift I was supposed to send out before Christmas is delayed because I took a nasty fall - luckily my right hand and wrist is improving and I have been able to work diligently to finish the holiday exchange gift.  It will be sent out this week.  It'll end up as a 12th Night gift instead of a Christmas gift.  ;-)

Roscelin
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Status: RO

Hoo-rah, my Secret Santa package arrived this weekend! Debbie from West
Yorkshire sent me a lovely package (twice...it's quite the story!) with
several nice skeins of naturally-dyed silk and wool embroidery threads made
by a lady in Wales, a small bag of dyed merino-cross wool for my spinning, a
cute little book on York, and a frame-able scroll/poster on the highlights
of the history of York.  Very cool, since I'm big on embroidery (and like to
experiment with natural dyes), AND York is one of my favorite places in
Britain.
Poor Debbie had to send the package twice, because the eejits at the Royal
Mail somehow misunderstood the customs declaration label AND the address
label for the U.S., and sent it *back* to her (at the return address).  It
must have had quite the trip, because I'd managed to goof up the address
info when I sent it to Dawn, so it's more than a little bit of a miracle
that it made it at all!
I'm going to have lots of fun spinning my dyed merino fluff at the next SCA
event I attend--I have a modern wheel that I use a lot at home, but use my
little dropspindle at events.  ;o)
--Sue in Montana



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>> I found the perfect dress for my fabric!!!!! That is about the closest
> I've
>> found to any design for the fabric I have. Any idea of what kind of
> pattern
>> I'd need to make it?
>> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/ElenoraToledo5.jpg

Try www.margospatterns.com or www.reconstructinghistory.com . They'll need a 
little bit of fiddling, but both should work fine. 

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20051231153421.48315.qmail@web36506.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: "Casanova" (possible spoiler)
Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2006 00:30:21 -0500
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> I found this image on IMDB:
>
> 
> <http://imdb.com/gallery/ss/0402894/Ss/0402894/001.jpg?path=gallery&path_key=0402894>
>
>  Not the best photo, but you can definitely see her corset (and her thru 
> it!!)

Frankly, I find the look very unflattering. Not alluring at all to see her 
breasts squished like that. Weird. 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Bosoms
Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2006 00:42:20 -0500
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> You get somebody who's well-endowed
> to begin with, like me, and add some overweight to it, and I *can't* avoid
> having a shelf.

Maybe. But a shelf in itself doesn't bother me. What bothers me is when they 
overflow over the top of the bodice, or when the bodice is cut so low they 
actually fall out. Or when they push their breasts high enough that they end 
up  higher than their armpits. I mean... with a correctly cut and sized 
corset, the most you'll get is a horizontal plane on top... 

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From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] bosoms was: Have you seen this painting?
Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2006 00:45:57 -0500
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> Tubular to me means straight like a toilet paper roll. Elizabethan is 
> cone.
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth15.jpg
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth25.jpg
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth.jpg

Yes, but those are all later Elizabethans. The conical shape is really 
empasized in later years. Earlier is closer to tubular than those late 
examples - especially if you're like me and have size 0 shoulders and size 4 
hips! 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Bosoms
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That would be the Truly Bad Taste (tm) part <g>.
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2006 10:42 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Bosoms


> > You get somebody who's well-endowed
> > to begin with, like me, and add some overweight to it, and I *can't*
avoid
> > having a shelf.
>
> Maybe. But a shelf in itself doesn't bother me. What bothers me is when
they
> overflow over the top of the bodice, or when the bodice is cut so low they
> actually fall out. Or when they push their breasts high enough that they
end
> up  higher than their armpits. I mean... with a correctly cut and sized
> corset, the most you'll get is a horizontal plane on top...


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jan  2 01:33:18 2006
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] bosoms was: Have you seen this painting?
Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2006 00:32:13 -0600
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I still consider this conical.
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Mary1.jpg
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Mary.jpg
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth5.jpg
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/IsabelPortugal.jpg
this almost can be tubilar
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/TBBodenham.jpg
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/ElenoraToledo.jpg

-----Original Message-----
Yes, but those are all later Elizabethans. The conical shape is really
empasized in later years. Earlier is closer to tubular than those late
examples - especially if you're like me and have size 0 shoulders and size 4
hips!

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jan  2 01:49:22 2006
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Bosoms
Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2006 00:49:03 -0600
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You do have these
http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/wardrobe/ApotheosisDetail.jpg
http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/wardrobe/Montemezzano2.jpg
note she is a bit hunched over.
http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/wardrobe/BassanoConcert1.jpg
http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/wardrobe/MadonnadelleRose.jpg
among the working class
http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/wkclass/wk8.html
http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/wkclass/wk9.html
The thing is that these are all "Italian". There are a rare few Landsknecht.
I have a hard time finding the sort of squeezed melons on a platter in other
countries until the early to mid 1600s.
I think that the reason that women from the RenFaires like to wear the MoaP
is because 1. they are told the myth that that is how it was worn and 2. It
makes them feel a bit sexy.
A note on a previous post about modern women having bigger breast and
heavier weight then they did back when. I don't think that the person who
wrote the article you read had a look at late 1500s "Italian" paintings. IMO

De




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Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2006 06:53:33 +0000
From: rwfranz <rwfranz@hotpop.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] More info museum pictures
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Thanks! That helped.

Deredere Galbraith wrote:

> Some more info on the pictures
> http://mystictimes.nl/Gallery/Gallery.html


Roger

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] bossoms
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Take a look at the movie : "Let them eat Cake" with French and Saunders. The 
big lady is laced in a beautifull 18th century corset, and it is so well 
done. I have always admired the costumer who made that.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] bosoms was: Have you seen this painting?
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 5:32 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] bosoms was: Have you seen this painting?


>I still consider this conical.
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Mary1.jpg
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Mary.jpg
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth5.jpg
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/IsabelPortugal.jpg
> this almost can be tubilar
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/TBBodenham.jpg
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/ElenoraToledo.jpg
>

I think the point Audrey is trying to make is that although the earlier 
tudor styles were not entirely cylindrical there was less emphasis on the 
small waist and large bosom that the later Elizabethan (or 18th Century) 
styles although much of the cone shaped appearance is an optical illusion 
caused by things like triangular stomachers and long points.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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From: "kelly grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<021501c60f5f$ce0bfe00$0302a8c0@p4audrey>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] bosoms was: Have you seen this painting?
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That and there is a huge difference in cut between the early elizabethan 
stays and the 18thC stays.  Even the effigy stays are cut with only three 
pieces...the 18thC ones are cut in five or more. That seaming adds a lot to 
the position of the breast within the stays.
Kelly/estela
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 1:45 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] bosoms was: Have you seen this painting?


>> Tubular to me means straight like a toilet paper roll. Elizabethan is 
>> cone.
>> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth15.jpg
>> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth25.jpg
>> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth.jpg
>
> Yes, but those are all later Elizabethans. The conical shape is really 
> empasized in later years. Earlier is closer to tubular than those late 
> examples - especially if you're like me and have size 0 shoulders and size 
> 4 hips!
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Bosoms
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That was my post, and I didn't read an article to come to that conclusion.
In fact, it wasn't a conclusion, really, just a "toss it out there" idea,
based on my own personal experience and observation.
I'm aware of the paintings in which fleshier women appear (some of the Dutch
ones in that same time period show the same sort of voluptuousness, too),
but when you look at the nudes, it always seems to come down to an
exaggeration of the sitter's hips/thighs.  It's also an obsession that
didn't show up everywhere, even in Europe, and certainly didn't maintain its
presence in later centuries.  I don't seem to recall something similar
showing up at all until the lateish 19th century.
I'm really trying to avoid starting some sort of hot-and-bothered, flaming
thread here.  It's not my business to be berating modern people for weight
issues, and I wouldn't, anyways, having suffered from society's reaction to
my own shape most of my life.  So no value judgements.  I was just wondering
if the reason some of us see so many badly fitting bodices on women now is a
combination of many of the women simply being larger, combined with some
amount of bad taste, and a fair quantity of misinformation.  I've done a lot
of historical costuming over the last 2 decades (much of it for myself), and
I know how many fittings of patterns and whatnot I've had to do to get the
right look with my modern body.
--Sue, in grey pre-dawn Montana, where it looks like our unseasonably warm
weather has gone away again, alas!

----- Original Message -----
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2006 11:49 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Bosoms

<snipped>

> The thing is that these are all "Italian". There are a rare few
Landsknecht.
> I have a hard time finding the sort of squeezed melons on a platter in
other
> countries until the early to mid 1600s.
> I think that the reason that women from the RenFaires like to wear the
MoaP
> is because 1. they are told the myth that that is how it was worn and 2.
It
> makes them feel a bit sexy.
> A note on a previous post about modern women having bigger breast and
> heavier weight then they did back when. I don't think that the person who
> wrote the article you read had a look at late 1500s "Italian" paintings.
IMO
>
> De


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] bossoms
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I haven't seen that movie! Is it an American production, or done by another
country? (I'm asking because my local video stores tend to put American
drama in a "drama" section, and non-American films in a "Foreign" section.)
I'm in the mood for a few costume movies <g>...have "Restoration" on my
list, since I haven't seen that in a while. And "Dangerous Liaisons."
--Sue, in a mood to watch and sew ;-D

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 12:44 AM
Subject: [h-cost] bossoms


> Take a look at the movie : "Let them eat Cake" with French and Saunders.
The
> big lady is laced in a beautifull 18th century corset, and it is so well
> done. I have always admired the costumer who made that.
>
> Bjarne


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"Let Them Eat Cake" was a very short-run British comedy set at the cusp of 
the French Revolution, starring the comedy team of Dawn French and Jennifer 
Saunders (of Ab-Fab fame).  It's out on DVD, but not in the US.
                  -Helen/Aidan 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] bossoms
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Bummer!
*sigh* (sue scratches it off her list)....
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Helen Pinto" <hpinto@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 8:55 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] bossoms


> "Let Them Eat Cake" was a very short-run British comedy set at the cusp of
> the French Revolution, starring the comedy team of Dawn French and
Jennifer
> Saunders (of Ab-Fab fame).  It's out on DVD, but not in the US.
>                   -Helen/Aidan


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From: jordana robinson <mylaar@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: "Casanova" (possible spoiler)
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this is another plot spoiler, so...



spoiler space...



another reason for the weirdness of that corset may be that there were
some action scenes coming up, as she and casanova make a dramatic
escape from the scaffold.  there may have been need for a harness or
some sort of safety gear or padding underneath? (they jump from the
scaffold onto a moving carriage/horses.)  i was watching a sort of
"behind the scenes" thing the other day, and it looked like they were
doing their own stunts, but i fully admit i was only really giving
close attention to heath ledger at that point :)  just playing devil's
advocate, as i agree it looks really ugly in that photo.

i wish i were an actress in these movies -- i would be so happy to get
to wear corsets and get paid for it!

i loved the film, and because the plot and humor were a bit
anachronistic in flavor, i expected and allowed for inaccuracies in
the costuming.  (there was also a dress at one point with a very
19th-century-looking back bustle thing going on, which also jarred me
for a second.)  i think since the film as a whole was not aiming to be
a recreation of real historical events, then just giving the "look and
feel" of the period is appropriate.  it's just supposed to be a fun
romantic comedy with pretty outfits, after all :)

-jordana

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Bosoms
Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2006 19:23:24 -0600
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Thank you for reminding me of the Dutch paints, I had forgotten about them.
:)
Though I am bias I do not think that my post was flaming.
Your statement is not the first time I have heard about comparison of weight
from the Renaissance to modern. I may have assumed that you had read the
article that someone told me about a few months back.
I may not be a big wompin' momma but I come in a close second, so it isn't a
weight issue, it's an information issue, with me.
I don't think that it matters of the size of the woman but I think you are
correct about poor fit, and poor information.
My friend who is into fetish and historic costume corsetry once told me many
of the women she encounters from RenFairs have ill-fitted corsets.(roughly
60% have the wrong century corset)
She has had women come to her and ask how can she wear that corset because
they wore a corset for a RenFaire and was so uncomfortable. After explaining
proper fit, she would offer to either fit them with a store bought corset or
make one. 99% of those who take up her offer are satisfied with the results.
I hear many think that the bawdy look is the norm and rampantly crosses the
classes.
Many assume that the head costumer is well read in historic costuming
(usually they are) there are also those that show up to the RenFaire who
have copied a gown that they saw at the faire the previous year not knowing
whether it is period or another person perpetuating another person's
fantasy.
And then there are the major pattern companies and their "Renaissance"
patterns that don't help the matter.
Now this is my opinion and doesn't mean that it is 100% fact.
De

-----Original Message-----
That was my post, and I didn't read an article to come to that conclusion.
In fact, it wasn't a conclusion, really, just a "toss it out there" idea,
based on my own personal experience and observation.
I'm aware of the paintings in which fleshier women appear (some of the Dutch
ones in that same time period show the same sort of voluptuousness, too),
but when you look at the nudes, it always seems to come down to an
exaggeration of the sitter's hips/thighs.  It's also an obsession that
didn't show up everywhere, even in Europe, and certainly didn't maintain its
presence in later centuries.  I don't seem to recall something similar
showing up at all until the lateish 19th century.
I'm really trying to avoid starting some sort of hot-and-bothered, flaming
thread here.  It's not my business to be berating modern people for weight
issues, and I wouldn't, anyways, having suffered from society's reaction to
my own shape most of my life.  So no value judgements.  I was just wondering
if the reason some of us see so many badly fitting bodices on women now is a
combination of many of the women simply being larger, combined with some
amount of bad taste, and a fair quantity of misinformation.  I've done a lot
of historical costuming over the last 2 decades (much of it for myself), and
I know how many fittings of patterns and whatnot I've had to do to get the
right look with my modern body.
--Sue, in grey pre-dawn Montana, where it looks like our unseasonably warm
weather has gone away again, alas!



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Gack! I wasn't, really, trying to aim the "flaming" reference at you!
Heavens, no.  I'm sorry that wasn't clear (mea culpa!).
What I was trying to say, in my clumsy/wordy fashion, was that I really
didn't want this thread to degenerate into another tirade on fat Americans.
We've had those on this list, unfortunately, and I'd be pretty content if
they didn't occur in the future.
I'm laughing at your description of a "big wompin' mama" <weg>.  I qualify,
although I'm more fire-plug shaped, being short and not amazonian-tall. ;o)
I don't have much experience at all with RenFaires (they just don't occur in
my part of the world, so what I know is all 2nd-hand), but I've seen plenty
of the same sort of ill-fitting bodices and bad information occur at SCA
events.
Not at all familiar with the article you're mentioning--if you remember more
specifics, it'd be great if you'd post them.  I'd like to read it.
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 6:23 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Bosoms


> Thank you for reminding me of the Dutch paints, I had forgotten about
them.
> :)
> Though I am bias I do not think that my post was flaming.
> Your statement is not the first time I have heard about comparison of
weight
> from the Renaissance to modern. I may have assumed that you had read the
> article that someone told me about a few months back.
> I may not be a big wompin' momma but I come in a close second, so it isn't
a
> weight issue, it's an information issue, with me.
> I don't think that it matters of the size of the woman but I think you are
> correct about poor fit, and poor information.
> My friend who is into fetish and historic costume corsetry once told me
many
> of the women she encounters from RenFairs have ill-fitted corsets.(roughly
> 60% have the wrong century corset)
> She has had women come to her and ask how can she wear that corset because
> they wore a corset for a RenFaire and was so uncomfortable. After
explaining
> proper fit, she would offer to either fit them with a store bought corset
or
> make one. 99% of those who take up her offer are satisfied with the
results.
> I hear many think that the bawdy look is the norm and rampantly crosses
the
> classes.
> Many assume that the head costumer is well read in historic costuming
> (usually they are) there are also those that show up to the RenFaire who
> have copied a gown that they saw at the faire the previous year not
knowing
> whether it is period or another person perpetuating another person's
> fantasy.
> And then there are the major pattern companies and their "Renaissance"
> patterns that don't help the matter.
> Now this is my opinion and doesn't mean that it is 100% fact.
> De


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Status: RO

Oh, okay. :)
I don't recall the magazine she said it came from I just remember that what
my friend relayed to me sounded like the person didn't do very good
research. Also had the myth in the article about people in the Renaissance
never bathing.
De
-----Original Message-----
Gack! I wasn't, really, trying to aim the "flaming" reference at you!
Heavens, no.  I'm sorry that wasn't clear (mea culpa!).
What I was trying to say, in my clumsy/wordy fashion, was that I really
didn't want this thread to degenerate into another tirade on fat Americans.
We've had those on this list, unfortunately, and I'd be pretty content if
they didn't occur in the future.
I'm laughing at your description of a "big wompin' mama" <weg>.  I qualify,
although I'm more fire-plug shaped, being short and not amazonian-tall. ;o)
I don't have much experience at all with RenFaires (they just don't occur in
my part of the world, so what I know is all 2nd-hand), but I've seen plenty
of the same sort of ill-fitting bodices and bad information occur at SCA
events.
Not at all familiar with the article you're mentioning--if you remember more
specifics, it'd be great if you'd post them.  I'd like to read it.
--Sue


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Subject: [h-cost] Ten Years!
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Status: RO

The Costume Gallery website's 10th year Anniversary is Jan. 6, 2006.

Many, many thanks to all of you for making my dream job come true.  A very heartfelt thanks to the h-costumers who have been around for all these years.  You encouraged me and gave so much guidance from the very beginning.

For our anniversary,  I am opening up the online Library for free access from Jan. 3 - 6.   You may invite your family and friends to use our Library during the free access period.  The passwords are only good for our Library section of our website.  These passwords will change on Jan. 7 at 12 am.  The new passwords will only be available to subscribers at that time.  

Go to www.costumelibrary.com and click on the SUBSCRIBER LOGIN button.
Library Passwords good only from Jan. 3 - 6:
Login: cg2003
Password: budnan5  
NOTE: Remember to use all lower case letters and no blank spaces before, after, or in-between the passwords.  Blank spaces are recognized as characters and will give you an error message.

It is so hard for me to believe it has been 10 years!  In 1996, the website was called Historic Costume Research and  the Library was all that was on the site.  The growth continued with The Costume Gallery in 1997,  Online Costume Ball in 1997, the Costume Classroom in 2000,  A Year in Fashion series in 2000,  Designer's of Their Time series in 2003, and Fashion Color Database in 2005. 

Many thanks again,
Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
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From: "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
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<snip for length>
my def. on MoaP
this is not (though loud) MoaP
http://photobucket.com/albums/v314/Maestro01/PSClaudeandPetronella/?action=v

iew&current=PC36.jpg

It's when the bodice is cinched in such a way that the bosoms have no
room
but to pop out.
http://www.printroom.com/ViewGalleryPhoto.asp?userid=jmstrange&gallery_id=25

2009&image_id=11
Though these are wenches, I have seen women suppose to be nobility and
looking like tarts.
http://photobucket.com/albums/v314/Maestro01/CommercialShoot/?action=view&cu

rrent=Commercial95.jpg
This isn't as bad as I have seen in the past.
Now I have no problem MoaPs except that it has become the belief that
this
was the norm for women of that century. This is not saying that the
blooming
bosom wasn't seen but it wasn't common.

De
================================

Sigh, I have to take responsibility for some of these, this is my home
faire :).

I think you are right though, in the business part of the rennfaire
world, this is a *very* accepted look for any female in costume.  It is
expected by the majority of the patrons too.  There is little tolerance
for authentic costuming when what they want is 'St. Pauly Girl' both for
serving the ale and wearing the crown.  

I just try and tell myself it is at least fairly close to 17th C :).

That being said, this group of wenches actually do a pretty good job of
staying away from TOAP and overflowing cups.  

Catherine
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Subject: [h-cost] Japan Vakation question
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Hi,

Does anyone kow more about interesting sites to visit in Japan?
We would like to go somewhere in april/mei.

I know you can make an appointment to see part of the digitial 
collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute.
http://www.kci.or.jp/collection/coll-e.html
This sounds quite interesting.
I have the fashion book of the institute.
Has anyone has any experience with their digital collection?
Is it hard to get permission?

The Japanese costume Museum sounds interesting too.

Things I am most interested in are Historical costumes, Fabric stores, 
Gothic Lolita clothing.

Greetings,
       Deredere





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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jan  3 10:38:17 2006
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From: Anne <adelaide@genevahistoricalsociety.com>
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If you are interested in this period, you will want to see the exhibit 
Young America: The Daguerreotypes of Southworth & Hawes. I saw it at the 
George Eastman House in Rochester, NY over the holiday and the images 
are superb. It features over 150 images by the photographers from the 
1840s through 1860s. The exhibit includes the original daguerreotypes 
and painting of Nancy Southworth featured in Joan Severa's Dressed for 
the Photographer. The details you can see in the originals are amazing. 
There is a massive catalog for the exhibit, but it runs $120 and the 
photos simply cannot convey the details visible in the originals.

The show in Rochester closes this week (Jan. 8) and it will run Jan 28 
to April 9 in Andover, MA in its final run.

-- 
Anne Dealy
adelaideatgenevahistoricalsociety.com
(be sure to change "at" to "@")
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Hi the list,
Sorry if this is off topic, but if some of you have sended me emails lately, 
i probably never got them.
I have solved the problem now, so please if you had something send to me, 
please send it again.
I hate to think of all those mails i never got..............

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Greetings,

I was so pleased to find this resource.  I am in need
of guidance and after reading through some of the
archived messages, this sounds like the place to find
it.

My son will be playing Capt. Martin Frobisher at a
Renaissance Faire this summer and has asked me to make
his outfit.  Up to this point he has been supplied
with Yeoman garb. I have loads of sewing experience,
but none in historical accuracy.  Where would be the
best place to start?  I also don't have the luxury of
time, since he needs to submit fabric swatches by the
end of February.

I have asked him to find contact information for the
person in charge of costume at the Faire, so I will
know just how deep the accuracy needs to go.  I have
done theatre costuming, but I think this needs to be a
little more in-depth.

There is a portrait of this gentleman to use as a
guide.  How do I tell what kind of fabric to look for?
 My local fabric sources are limited to Joann's and
Wal-Mart.  Are there good resources online?

Any guidance/assistance will be appreciated.

Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Daguerreotypes of 1840s & 50s
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In a message dated 1/3/2006 10:43:48 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
adelaide@genevahistoricalsociety.com writes:

> Young America: The Daguerreotypes of Southworth &Hawes

Yummy!


On Amazon.com the book is $75....with used ones for $70.
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Hi!


I am a long-time member of the group your will be costuming for (Bristol
RenFaire Guilde of St. George) and I can give you some pointers, but Kate
Bailey will be your final word of approval.

I can tell you that authenticity is very important- some people use
theatrical cheats, but it's rather discouraged. It's important to use
fabrics with lots of natural fiber as we will be performing in the dust
and heat of high summer. Try to get fabric with as much cotton in it as
possible. Take a good look at other Renaissance portraits and try to
train your eye as to what patterns are appropriate- many modern
upholstery fabrics are a good pattern but be careful that they aren't too
big to go on a human body.  When in doubt, use a plain fabric and go wild
with the trim. Make sure your colors are correct to period- it's hard to
go wrong with greys, browns, and golds. As a knight and a sea captain,
you should probably err towards the side of simple and practical. It's
better to do a fairly simple outfit well than to do a really complicated
outfit badly.

The parts of the outfit you will need to make/provide are:

period correct shirt (preferably two so he can have a clean one on
Sunday)
breeches (slops or venetians)
doublet
sleeves (they are detachable so you could make him a couple different
matching ones....)
a cloak or jerkin (sleeveless over vest)
hat

He will also need period correct shoes/boots. Most men wear men's
theatrical/ballet tights underneath. 

For a good set of men's patterns you can't go wrong with Margo's
Patterns, she has a complete outfit in one pattern package along with
excellent instructions. 

Consider using several layers of trim as decoration to give it depth and
interest rather than one wide trim.  You will need to buy more trim than
you thought possible to trim the outfit- I never buy trim in less than 15
yard lots these days and you could probably use 20-30 yards on the
breeches, doublet and cloak without even trying hard.

Since he is a knight, you won't need to worry about beading and jeweling,
but he should consider getting at least one piece of really nice jewelry
to decorate the outfit. 

Don't limit yourself to just locally available fabric resources- the Web
is a great place to shop and most fabric sellers will send you swatches.
My personal favorite is Fabric.com but I'm sure other people will have
other resources to share. 

Karen
Seamstrix
Lady Philadelphia Carey, Baroness Le Scrope of Bolton
Guilde of St. George, Bristol Renaissance Faire





On Tue, 3 Jan 2006 08:44:10 -0800 (PST) REBECCA BURCH
<ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net> writes:
> Greetings,
> 
> I was so pleased to find this resource.  I am in need
> of guidance and after reading through some of the
> archived messages, this sounds like the place to find
> it.
> 
> My son will be playing Capt. Martin Frobisher at a
> Renaissance Faire this summer and has asked me to make
> his outfit.  Up to this point he has been supplied
> with Yeoman garb. I have loads of sewing experience,
> but none in historical accuracy.  Where would be the
> best place to start?  I also don't have the luxury of
> time, since he needs to submit fabric swatches by the
> end of February.
> 
> I have asked him to find contact information for the
> person in charge of costume at the Faire, so I will
> know just how deep the accuracy needs to go.  I have
> done theatre costuming, but I think this needs to be a
> little more in-depth.
> 
> There is a portrait of this gentleman to use as a
> guide.  How do I tell what kind of fabric to look for?
>  My local fabric sources are limited to Joann's and
> Wal-Mart.  Are there good resources online?
> 
> Any guidance/assistance will be appreciated.
> 
> Rebecca Burch
> Center Valley Farm
> Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
_______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 03 Jan 2006 12:30:24 -0500
From: "RON CARNEGIE" <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hello-new member
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hey I played Sir Martin Frobisher myself for a few years at a Rennainsince 
faire ( in California)!  I also did have a costume based upon the painting 
that you speak of, though I used wool for all the pieces.  It is diifficult 
to be precise about some of the fabric in that painting, at least when using 
reproductions of it in books.  I susppect it would be more obvious if the 
actual painting is viewed.

   The portrait shows what is I believe a silk or satin doublet in white. 
This part is clear.  The sleeves of the doublet are shaped in a sort of "leg 
of mutton" style.  Very full in the shoulders, thight in the forearms.  They 
appear to be cut longer than needed as well.  The doublet closes with 
several small buttons set close togetherand has a very narrow skirt at the 
bottom.

   What is a harder to determine is the fabric of the other garments.  Over 
the doublet he wears a jerkin and he wears a pair of venetians.  These items 
are both constructed of the same material and match.  There seem to be two 
opinions out there on what the fabric is.  One would theory is that it is 
leather, the other wool.  If it is leather, it is a soft finished leather, 
like proper deerskin as opposed to the modern stuuf easily available.  A 
plushness is cleary  apparent in some copies of the painting.   The jerkin 
is laced up the front with points (a seperate tie at each place rather than 
a long cord like a woman's pair of bodys or corset).  The jerkin is finsihed 
with rolled piccadills at the waist and a double set of similiar piccadils 
at the top of the armscye.  If you make the jerkin of wool, do yourslef a 
favour and do not finish the edges of these piccadills.  You will be dealing 
with a lot of fabric in those seams as it is.

   The outfit is finished with a THIN sword belt over the doublet (but under 
the jerkin) beige shoes, ruffs at the neck and wrists and a cord around his 
neck.  Hanging from the cord is what I have aften heard described as a 16th 
century bosuns whistle, but what looks to me far more like a ring hanging 
from a cord.  Bosun's pipes do exist in the period, and in most cases look 
quite different from modern ones (not always though). I think that in this 
case though the item has simply been misidentified.

    There are a number of sources for fabrics online, and if you intend to 
make this in wool you may need them.  Wool selection tends to be a little 
dicey at least at my local versions of the two stores you mentioned. I have 
purchased some for reasonable prices from Hamilton Drygoods, who is online. 
B. Black in Sons also have an online page.  They provide most of the finer 
wools you will find at places like Hancocks or Joannes.  I am not certain if 
they do retail business though.  I know when I lived in California still we 
needed a business license to buy from them.  They are one of the things I 
most miss about California!  Great people to do business with, and they 
would give you great deals when you were there in the shop.    My friends 
here where I now live at Burnley and Trowbridge have a great selection of 
historic appropriate fabrics as well as some books that will help you weith 
patterning for the period.  There webpage wont help you with their fabric 
though.  You will have to either call them, or order their catalog WITH the 
fabric swatches.  I have found some good deals on Ebay as well, including 
several yards of a biege that would work well for Frobisher.

Ron Carnegie


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "REBECCA BURCH" <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 11:44 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Hello-new member


> Greetings,
>
> I was so pleased to find this resource.  I am in need
> of guidance and after reading through some of the
> archived messages, this sounds like the place to find
> it.
>
> My son will be playing Capt. Martin Frobisher at a
> Renaissance Faire this summer and has asked me to make
> his outfit.  Up to this point he has been supplied
> with Yeoman garb. I have loads of sewing experience,
> but none in historical accuracy.  Where would be the
> best place to start?  I also don't have the luxury of
> time, since he needs to submit fabric swatches by the
> end of February.
>
> I have asked him to find contact information for the
> person in charge of costume at the Faire, so I will
> know just how deep the accuracy needs to go.  I have
> done theatre costuming, but I think this needs to be a
> little more in-depth.
>
> There is a portrait of this gentleman to use as a
> guide.  How do I tell what kind of fabric to look for?
> My local fabric sources are limited to Joann's and
> Wal-Mart.  Are there good resources online?
>
> Any guidance/assistance will be appreciated.
>
> Rebecca Burch
> Center Valley Farm
> Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2006 10:45:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hello-new member
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Rebecca,

I have a fabric website specifically for people making historical costumes.

http://www.renaissancefabrics.net/

I carry wool, silk, linen, and some cottons.  For a hot summer and
historical accuaracy, I recommend linens for shirts, pants, and maybe a
doublet.  Lightweight wool is even better for a doublet and can also be
used for pants.  Most people think wool is too warm but it breathes so it
isn't that bad if you get a lightweight kind.  And it is more historically
accurate than cotton.  Silk would be accuarate as well, but if he is going
to be outside in hot weather, silk is impractical because it will get
sweat (salt) stains.  You could use it as a trim fabric, though.

Someone mentioned Margo's patterns.  They are awesome and heavily
researched and tested (I know her personally).  I recommend them also.

And someone else said to use cotton for his outfit.  I would recommend
linen over than cotton because it is sturdy and more accurate.  I also
carry a cotton/linen blend that is good because it isn't as expensive as
pure linen but it has a better look than 100% cotton.  I also can order
other colors than the ones listed on the website so if you are looking for
a specific color, let me know and I will see if it is available.

Other websites you can check for fabrics are www.fabrics.com, 
www.denverfabrics.com, and www.fashionfabricsclub.com

I am a costumer myself so I will be happy to answer any construction or
other questions you may have!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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X-Miltered: at demeter with ID 43BAE25C.000 by Joe's j-chkmail (http://j-chkmail.ensmp.fr)!

Huum
   
  You are on the big place on the other side of the world, so I can't loan you any of my patterns.
   
  That leaves Big Pattern Co's.  where I haven't yet seen anything that really turns me on, or books,  Some of the good ones have pattern drafts right in them.  
   
  The easiest to deal with, and ones that you might actually be able to get to are:
  Arnolds books, Fitting and Proper and the Williamsburg Costume in detail.  .  some of the others.
   
  And there is always the rumor that I wait for, that the Simplicity line is coming out with 18th c patterns in their Martha McCain costume historian line.  I think she's done quite well in the American Civil War (War between the States, the late Unpleasentness)... Real nice looking, they look like REAL THINGS and adaptable to period sewing techniques for those of us with less than adequate pattern drafting skills.  (No I find fitting a real, true problem!!!  )
   
  Mia in Charlotte, NC, just catching up to the rest of the world after 10 days off work
   

		
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <007501c61036$01a189c0$6400a8c0@Penny>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ten Years!
Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2006 13:50:09 -0800
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Mazel Tov Penny! You're making me feel old! My my, has it been ten years 
already?

angela

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 11:19 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Ten Years!


The Costume Gallery website's 10th year Anniversary is Jan. 6, 2006.

Many, many thanks to all of you for making my dream job come true.  A very 
heartfelt thanks to the h-costumers who have been around for all these 
years.  You encouraged me and gave so much guidance from the very beginning.

For our anniversary,  I am opening up the online Library for free access 
from Jan. 3 - 6.   You may invite your family and friends to use our Library 
during the free access period.  The passwords are only good for our Library 
section of our website.  These passwords will change on Jan. 7 at 12 am. 
The new passwords will only be available to subscribers at that time.

Go to www.costumelibrary.com and click on the SUBSCRIBER LOGIN button.
Library Passwords good only from Jan. 3 - 6:
Login: cg2003
Password: budnan5
NOTE: Remember to use all lower case letters and no blank spaces before, 
after, or in-between the passwords.  Blank spaces are recognized as 
characters and will give you an error message.

It is so hard for me to believe it has been 10 years!  In 1996, the website 
was called Historic Costume Research and  the Library was all that was on 
the site.  The growth continued with The Costume Gallery in 1997,  Online 
Costume Ball in 1997, the Costume Classroom in 2000,  A Year in Fashion 
series in 2000,  Designer's of Their Time series in 2003, and Fashion Color 
Database in 2005.

Many thanks again,
Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
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Some help
http://www.npg.org.uk/live/search/portrait.asp?LinkID=mp54600&rNo=2&role=sit

The best I can do in getting the portrait that Cornelius Ketel painted.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/reader/0300083807/ref=sib_dp_pt/104-4894048-4326327
#reader-link

If you copy this you will definitely want the shirt to be linen.
I don't think that MF would be wearing the full ruff while working.
The off-white doublet looks satin but it is not the same "satin" as modern
satin. Might substitute the satin for polished cotton.
The jerkin looks to be leather.
Recommend these patterns for assistance if needed.
http://www.margospatterns.com/mainframe.htm
http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/patterns/elizabethan.html

Good luck,
De




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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Laura de Pola
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Hello,

I've been asked to help with this costume.
1544
http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/l/lotto/1531-/070pola.html

I will likely use the de Toledo pattern for a basis. I've made a  
couple gowns with it before so I am familiar with it.

I'm thinking it's a brown wool/ or silk with silk velvet ribbon  
appliqued on.  I understand the chemise.  But I don't really  
understand the wrap and head covering.  Does anyone have an idea of  
what/ how it's made? thanks!


Althea Turner
althea@alfalfapress.com

"Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have  
company in their ignorance, they don't want people to look into  
anything; they want us to believe like peasants and not ask the  
reasons behind things."
William of Conches, 12th century


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If you are going to follow the advice (which I agree with) to use layers of trim generously, you'll need this site: http://www.cheeptrims.com/default.asp

Janet Davis
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Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2006 14:50:53 -0500
From: Irmgart <irmgart@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hello-new member
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re: wool breathing

I have a slightly fulled wool flannel dress that I wear with linen
undergarments, it has done well for me in windy, 35F weather and fairly
muggy 82F degree weather. Admittedly, I was *warm* in the heat, but not
dying by any stretch, and this is a dress that was designed for *cold.*

I would imagine something in lightweight wool would be even better.

-Irmgart

On 1/3/06, Diana Habra <dch@inreach.com> wrote:
>
> Rebecca,
>
> I have a fabric website specifically for people making historical
> costumes.
>
> http://www.renaissancefabrics.net/
>
> I carry wool, silk, linen, and some cottons.  For a hot summer and
> historical accuaracy, I recommend linens for shirts, pants, and maybe a
> doublet.  Lightweight wool is even better for a doublet and can also be
> used for pants.  Most people think wool is too warm but it breathes so it
> isn't that bad if you get a lightweight kind.  And it is more historically
> accurate than cotton.  Silk would be accuarate as well, but if he is going
> to be outside in hot weather, silk is impractical because it will get
> sweat (salt) stains.  You could use it as a trim fabric, though.
>
> Someone mentioned Margo's patterns.  They are awesome and heavily
> researched and tested (I know her personally).  I recommend them also.
>
> And someone else said to use cotton for his outfit.  I would recommend
> linen over than cotton because it is sturdy and more accurate.  I also
> carry a cotton/linen blend that is good because it isn't as expensive as
> pure linen but it has a better look than 100% cotton.  I also can order
> other colors than the ones listed on the website so if you are looking for
> a specific color, let me know and I will see if it is available.
>
> Other websites you can check for fabrics are www.fabrics.com,
> www.denverfabrics.com, and www.fashionfabricsclub.com
>
> I am a costumer myself so I will be happy to answer any construction or
> other questions you may have!
>
> Diana
>
> www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
> "Everything for the Costumer"
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
_______________________________________________
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From: roscelinlimoges@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Book
Date: Tue, 03 Jan 2006 21:22:01 +0000
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Hi Beth,
  
   Sorry for the delay, mundane life got a hold of me.  :-)  The book I have is:
Le Costume - De L'Antiquite A La Renaissance Francaise by L. Lejeune-Francoise and L. Lamorlette.  The book is so old that there is no copyright in it.

Happy New Year,
Rose
 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
> Oh that hurts. I had a bad one on concrete about a month ago.
> 
> Please let me know which one you have. I've been collecting quite a bit on 
> archaeological textiles and costumes (SCA period), but need more on France.
> 
> Take care.
> Beth
> 
> At 10:32 AM 12/17/2005, you wrote:
> >Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2005 22:20:25 +0000
> >From: roscelinlimoges@comcast.net
> >
> >Beth,
> >
> >   I know I have a French costuming book somewhere in my library, let me 
> > see if it is the same one or not.  If it is, I like the book except for 
> > the fact it is in French - there was a chapter in it that I wanted 
> > translated, luckily I had an acquaintance who could translate the chapter 
> > for me.   Must go and let arm and wrist rest, had a nasty fall last weekend.
> >
> >Roscelin
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2006 15:12:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hello-new member
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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I am SOOO sorry!  That was supposed to be private!

Diana


> Rebecca,
>
> I have a fabric website specifically for people making historical
> costumes.
>
> http://www.renaissancefabrics.net/
>
> I carry wool, silk, linen, and some cottons.  For a hot summer and
> historical accuaracy, I recommend linens for shirts, pants, and maybe a
> doublet.  Lightweight wool is even better for a doublet and can also be
> used for pants.  Most people think wool is too warm but it breathes so it
> isn't that bad if you get a lightweight kind.  And it is more historically
> accurate than cotton.  Silk would be accuarate as well, but if he is going
> to be outside in hot weather, silk is impractical because it will get
> sweat (salt) stains.  You could use it as a trim fabric, though.
>
> Someone mentioned Margo's patterns.  They are awesome and heavily
> researched and tested (I know her personally).  I recommend them also.
>
> And someone else said to use cotton for his outfit.  I would recommend
> linen over than cotton because it is sturdy and more accurate.  I also
> carry a cotton/linen blend that is good because it isn't as expensive as
> pure linen but it has a better look than 100% cotton.  I also can order
> other colors than the ones listed on the website so if you are looking for
> a specific color, let me know and I will see if it is available.
>
> Other websites you can check for fabrics are www.fabrics.com,
> www.denverfabrics.com, and www.fashionfabricsclub.com
>
> I am a costumer myself so I will be happy to answer any construction or
> other questions you may have!
>
> Diana
>
> www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
> "Everything for the Costumer"
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Althea Turner wrote:

> Hello,
> 
> I've been asked to help with this costume.
> 1544
> http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/l/lotto/1531-/070pola.html
> 
> I will likely use the de Toledo pattern for a basis. I've made a  couple 
> gowns with it before so I am familiar with it.
> 
> I'm thinking it's a brown wool/ or silk with silk velvet ribbon  
> appliqued on.  I understand the chemise.  But I don't really  understand 
> the wrap and head covering.  Does anyone have an idea of  what/ how it's 
> made? thanks!
> 


The "wrap" looks like a partlet (I can see a collar) made from a heavily 
textured fabric, with fringe. It may be a size too small for the wearer, 
or maybe it's just painted badly.

Not sure what's going on with the headdress in the same fabric.



Dawn


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Those of you who make hats...

Would you suggest a good book or two? I'm totally intimidated by the 
process but eager to try it if I can get good instructions. I've seen 
one book that makes it look easy, but then if it was easy everyone would 
be doing it, so I have to wonder.



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] hatmaking
Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2006 19:16:58 -0700
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I have From the Neck Up, which I highly recommend.

Sylrog

On Jan 3, 2006, at 7:06 PM, Dawn wrote:

> Those of you who make hats...
>
> Would you suggest a good book or two? I'm totally intimidated by the 
> process but eager to try it if I can get good instructions. I've seen 
> one book that makes it look easy, but then if it was easy everyone 
> would be doing it, so I have to wonder.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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roscelinlimoges@comcast.net wrote:

> Hi Beth,
>   
>    Sorry for the delay, mundane life got a hold of me.  :-)  The book I have is:
> Le Costume - De L'Antiquite A La Renaissance Francaise by L. Lejeune-Francoise and L. Lamorlette.  The book is so old that there is no copyright in it.
> 
> Happy New Year,
> Rose

I did a quick check of Worldcat.  The only book by those authors I found 
is titled "Histoire du costume".  The only copy is in Brussels and the 
entry lists the date as "1950-1957?".

--Charlene


-- 
Plagiarism:  Failure to adorn stolen ideas with footnotes, as opposed to 
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The Cynic's Dictionary, 2002


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In a message dated 1/3/2006 9:18:00 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sylvia@ntw.net writes:

have  From the Neck Up, which I highly recommend.




Another that I recommend, unfortunately out of print (but our local library  
has it):
"Classic Millinery Techniques" by Ann Albrizio
 
It has more detail on building a buckram frame than "From the Neck Up"  does, 
which I found very helpful--although I haven't actually tried it  yet!  That 
is on my list of things to try.  I've been getting along  modifying straw hats 
for early 19th c. day wear and making turbans for evening  wear.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: [h-cost] Slightly OT on Movie Costume picture source
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I have been asked to quote for a gown from "Interview with the 
Vampire" and cannot find anything other than a very poor shot. It is 
the gold ballgown that "Claudia" wears at the dance/ball where she 
dances with Brad Pitt. Can anyone point me to a picture source 
please? (Tracie Arnold does not have it.) I may have to go and buy 
the movie, but I'd rather not!!

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly OT on Movie Costume picture source
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In a message dated 1/4/2006 9:44:26 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

> I may have to go and buy 
> the movie, but I'd rather not!!
> 

Can you not rent it?

I worked on "Interview" and I don't remember this dress. I thought everything 
Claudia wore was blue or green...except the pink dress she "kills" Lestat in. 
Must be a bustle gown...while they're in Paris [the unions [not a member] 
wouldn't let me go to Paris]
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Date: Wed, 04 Jan 2006 15:13:19 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly OT on Movie Costume picture source
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At 14:53 04/01/2006, you wrote:
>In a message dated 1/4/2006 9:44:26 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:
>
> > I may have to go and buy
> > the movie, but I'd rather not!!
> >
>
>Can you not rent it?
>
>I worked on "Interview" and I don't remember this dress. I thought everything
>Claudia wore was blue or green...except the pink dress she "kills" Lestat in.
>Must be a bustle gown...while they're in Paris [the unions [not a member]
>wouldn't let me go to Paris]


Yes, it was a bustle gown.  I copied the blue dress, from a borrowed 
DVD, but cannot get it again from the owner. You have to "Join" the 
shop here to rent videos and DVDs, and I feel it is a nuisance for 
just one movie!

Thanks anyway

Suzi


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From: traci@crimsonvision.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly OT on Movie Costume picture source
Date: Wed, 04 Jan 2006 15:27:24 +0000
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These are the only two images I found online; not so detailed though:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v473/antiquecorset/Interview%20with%20the%20Vampire/INTERVIEW_WITH_VAMPIRE-525.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v473/antiquecorset/Interview%20with%20the%20Vampire/INTERVIEW_WITH_VAMPIRE-526.jpg

I'm thinking you're going to have to grab yourself a copy of the movie; I made the blue gown in 2004 and the movie was invaluable for the detailing.  :p

XxX,
Traci
www.crimsonvision.net
-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> 

> 
> I have been asked to quote for a gown from "Interview with the 
> Vampire" and cannot find anything other than a very poor shot. It is 
> the gold ballgown that "Claudia" wears at the dance/ball where she 
> dances with Brad Pitt. Can anyone point me to a picture source 
> please? (Tracie Arnold does not have it.) I may have to go and buy 
> the movie, but I'd rather not!! 
> 
> Suzi 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> 
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From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Book
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Hi Rose,

Thanks for the info. I know how the real world can do!

Take care.
Beth

At 08:53 AM 1/4/2006, you wrote:
>Date: Tue, 03 Jan 2006 21:22:01 +0000
>From: roscelinlimoges@comcast.net
>
>Hi Beth,
>
>    Sorry for the delay, mundane life got a hold of me.  :-)  The book I 
> have is:
>Le Costume - De L'Antiquite A La Renaissance Francaise by L. 
>Lejeune-Francoise and L. Lamorlette.  The book is so old that there is no 
>copyright in it.
>
>Happy New Year,
>Rose

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Thanks for checking..

Beth

At 08:53 AM 1/4/2006, you wrote:
>Date: Wed, 04 Jan 2006 00:26:34 -0600
>From: Charlene Charette <perronnelle@earthlink.net>
>I did a quick check of Worldcat.  The only book by those authors I found
>is titled "Histoire du costume".  The only copy is in Brussels and the
>entry lists the date as "1950-1957?".
>
>--Charlene

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Slightly OT on Movie Costume picture source
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Suzi - why not check your local library? That was a popular enough movie, I
would think they may have it - and it costs nothing! (or perhaps a very
small fee, depending on your library)


*******************************************************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence
Bristol Renaissance Faire
 
My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash
*******************************************************************
 

> 
> 
> Yes, it was a bustle gown.  I copied the blue dress, from a 
> borrowed DVD, but cannot get it again from the owner. You 
> have to "Join" the shop here to rent videos and DVDs, and I 
> feel it is a nuisance for just one movie!
> 
> Thanks anyway
> 
> Suzi
> 

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Date: Wed, 04 Jan 2006 15:39:34 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly OT on Movie Costume picture source
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At 15:27 04/01/2006, you wrote:
>These are the only two images I found online; not so detailed though:
>
>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v473/antiquecorset/Interview%20with%20the%20Vampire/INTERVIEW_WITH_VAMPIRE-525.jpg
>
>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v473/antiquecorset/Interview%20with%20the%20Vampire/INTERVIEW_WITH_VAMPIRE-526.jpg
>
>I'm thinking you're going to have to grab yourself a copy of the 
>movie; I made the blue gown in 2004 and the movie was invaluable for 
>the detailing.  :p
>
>XxX,
>Traci


Thank you that's two more than I found. I gave in and bought the DVD 
- it was really cheap so I crumbled.  Yes, I borrowed the customer's 
DVD for the blue dress - would never have managed without!!

Suzi


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Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2006 08:08:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly OT on Movie Costume picture source
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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> These are the only two images I found online; not so detailed though:
>
> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v473/antiquecorset/Interview%20with%20the%20Vampire/INTERVIEW_WITH_VAMPIRE-525.jpg
>
> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v473/antiquecorset/Interview%20with%20the%20Vampire/INTERVIEW_WITH_VAMPIRE-526.jpg
>
> I'm thinking you're going to have to grab yourself a copy of the movie; I
> made the blue gown in 2004 and the movie was invaluable for the detailing.

Well, if people on this list barely remember that she wore a gold dress
and it is difficult to find pictures of it, I wouldn't worry about copying
it exactly.  Who will know if it is a good reproduction or not?

Just a thought....

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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From: traci@crimsonvision.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly OT on Movie Costume picture source
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> Well, if people on this list barely remember that she wore a gold dress 
> and it is difficult to find pictures of it, I wouldn't worry about copying 
> it exactly. Who will know if it is a good reproduction or not? 

Heh, I've answered this question quite a few times to people trying to talk me in off the ledge for a detail on a costume not going the exact way I would want it to and my answer to them is 'I will know!'  ;)

XxX,
Traci
www.CrimsonVision.net
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly OT on Movie Costume picture source
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At 16:12 04/01/2006, you wrote:
> > Well, if people on this list barely remember that she wore a gold dress
> > and it is difficult to find pictures of it, I wouldn't worry about copying
> > it exactly. Who will know if it is a good reproduction or not?
>
>Heh, I've answered this question quite a few times to people trying 
>to talk me in off the ledge for a detail on a costume not going the 
>exact way I would want it to and my answer to them is 'I will know!'  ;)



I will copy it as nearly perfectly as possible because that is what 
the customer is paying for. It is her wedding dress, and she will 
want it to be perfect. It is my job to do the research and get it 
right. *I* will know if it is a good reproduction, and it will matter 
to me. Traci, that's you and me both!

Suzi 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Bought the DVD - was Slightly OT on Movie Costume source
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At 15:39 04/01/2006, you wrote:
>At 15:27 04/01/2006, you wrote:
>>These are the only two images I found online; not so detailed though:
>>
>>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v473/antiquecorset/Interview%20with%20the%20Vampire/INTERVIEW_WITH_VAMPIRE-525.jpg
>>
>>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v473/antiquecorset/Interview%20with%20the%20Vampire/INTERVIEW_WITH_VAMPIRE-526.jpg
>>
>>I'm thinking you're going to have to grab yourself a copy of the 
>>movie; I made the blue gown in 2004 and the movie was invaluable 
>>for the detailing.  :p
>>
>>XxX,
>>Traci
>
>
>Thank you that's two more than I found. I gave in and bought the DVD 
>- it was really cheap so I crumbled.  Yes, I borrowed the customer's 
>DVD for the blue dress - would never have managed without!!
>
>Suzi
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>


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On Wed, 04 Jan 2006 14:43:21 +0000, Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>  
wrote:
> I have been asked to quote for a gown from "Interview with the Vampire"  
> and cannot find anything other than a very poor shot. It is the gold  
> ballgown that "Claudia" wears at the dance/ball where she dances with  
> Brad Pitt. Can anyone point me to a picture source please?

I suspect it is this one;
http://www.bradpittnow.com/movies/interview_vampire/94f.jpg

Gunvor
-- 
"Jeg har sagt ja og nei og DA fĺr du lov"
Anders (nesten 4 ĺr)
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From: traci@crimsonvision.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly OT on Movie Costume picture source
Date: Wed, 04 Jan 2006 15:22:51 +0000
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Here are the only two images I could find after a bit of a search:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v473/antiquecorset/Interview%20with%20the%20Vampire/INTERVIEW_WITH_VAMPIRE-525.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v473/antiquecorset/Interview%20with%20the%20Vampire/INTERVIEW_WITH_VAMPIRE-526.jpg

I'm thinking you might have to buy the movie; I made the blue gown in 2004 and the movie was invaluable for the detailing.

XxX,
Traci
www.crimsonvision.net

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> 

> 
> I have been asked to quote for a gown from "Interview with the 
> Vampire" and cannot find anything other than a very poor shot. It is 
> the gold ballgown that "Claudia" wears at the dance/ball where she 
> dances with Brad Pitt. Can anyone point me to a picture source 
> please? (Tracie Arnold does not have it.) I may have to go and buy 
> the movie, but I'd rather not!! 
> 
> Suzi 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> 
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Here are the only two images I could find after a bit of a search:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v473/antiquecorset/Interview%20with%20the%20Vampire/INTERVIEW_WITH_VAMPIRE-525.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v473/antiquecorset/Interview%20with%20the%20Vampire/INTERVIEW_WITH_VAMPIRE-526.jpg

I'm thinking you might have to buy the movie; I made the blue gown in 2004 and the movie was invaluable for the detailing.

XxX,
Traci
www.crimsonvision.net

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> 

> 
> I have been asked to quote for a gown from "Interview with the 
> Vampire" and cannot find anything other than a very poor shot. It is 
> the gold ballgown that "Claudia" wears at the dance/ball where she 
> dances with Brad Pitt. Can anyone point me to a picture source 
> please? (Tracie Arnold does not have it.) I may have to go and buy 
> the movie, but I'd rather not!! 
> 
> Suzi 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
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Date: Wed, 04 Jan 2006 22:42:22 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Mainly for UK members - new web site for Costumers
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Thought everyone, but mainly from the U.K. I expect, would like to 
know that MacCulloch and Wallis has gone live with its online 
catalogue and ordering service. I thought it was a very good site. If 
anyone has problems with it, please let me know and I will pass on 
the information.

www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk

Suzi (A regular customer for mumble-mumble years.)


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I learned at a recent workshop that linen can have the same sheen as satin 
if the treatment is done correctly. It takes ironing the wet fabric until it 
shines. Lines should not be placed in a dryer. It will remove the sheen. Air 
drying retains the shiney surface. Once it'sbeen put in a dryer that sheen 
is gone forever. That is why we have so many linen textiles in museums... no 
dryers bach then. Dry gets too hot.
I'd suggest going to a second hand store, find a piece of linen fabric and 
test the ironing suggestion. I need to do that myself. I weave and that is 
one of the things I'll have to do next year.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 5:26 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Hello-new member


> Some help
> http://www.npg.org.uk/live/search/portrait.asp?LinkID=mp54600&rNo=2&role=sit
>
> The best I can do in getting the portrait that Cornelius Ketel painted.
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/reader/0300083807/ref=sib_dp_pt/104-4894048-4326327
> #reader-link
>
> If you copy this you will definitely want the shirt to be linen.
> I don't think that MF would be wearing the full ruff while working.
> The off-white doublet looks satin but it is not the same "satin" as modern
> satin. Might substitute the satin for polished cotton.
> The jerkin looks to be leather.
> Recommend these patterns for assistance if needed.
> http://www.margospatterns.com/mainframe.htm
> http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/patterns/elizabethan.html
>
> Good luck,
> De
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

> I have From the Neck Up, which I highly recommend.
> 

I think that was the book I looked at that scared me so. :)



Dawn



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Subject: [h-cost] Re:Secret Santa and Christmas Gifts
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Wow ...I work a lot, don't look at my emails, and now have a ton to  
look through!
I'm the one who sent you the silks, Genie. I'm very glad you liked  
them! I was tempted
to keep them for myself once I saw them! ;D And I must thank my  
secret santa for the
wonderful embroidery books!  One is a Reader's Digest with great  
reference pics
for stitches and the other's a cute little hardback called Stitches  
in Time. I love
them! I think my secret santa was Lalah. (?) I hope that's right. I  
had so much going
on when I got the package I'm afraid like a lot of others it got  
thrown out before I
  wrote down who it was from.
As for other costume related gifts, I got a copy of All About Wool,  
Nineteenth-Century
Fashion in Detail, and Cut of Men's Clothes! My wonderful husband got  
me a set of
the Hercule Poirot series with David Suchet.
   Debbie Callahan

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Date: Thu, 05 Jan 2006 05:30:26 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hatmaking
In-Reply-To: <43BB2D98.1030406@reddawn.net>
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"From the Neck Up" is the obvious one but the millinery school I took 
a course from has some books for sale that are worth checking out:
http://www.how2hats.com/booklist.html  I found it very easy but made 
much more sense once someone showed me how to do things rather than 
trying to read about it.  Best of luck, I love millinery, it is a 
blast and completely addictive!

Cheers,
Danielle

At 08:06 PM 1/3/2006, you wrote:
>Those of you who make hats...
>
>Would you suggest a good book or two? I'm totally intimidated by the 
>process but eager to try it if I can get good instructions. I've 
>seen one book that makes it look easy, but then if it was easy 
>everyone would be doing it, so I have to wonder.
>
>Dawn

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20051230191703.76617.qmail@web52106.mail.yahoo.com><003001c60d8d$2e0335f0$7c83fea9@CPQ21932199711><7.0.0.16.2.20051230142051.022e27b0@surewest.net><BAY0-SMTP078A71590D10D4571B80DFA92B0@phx.gbl><6.2.3.4.0.20060104144013.01d48bc8@127.0.0.1><ops2uz8msx8hp8zh@acer>
	<6.2.3.4.0.20060104223933.01d95220@127.0.0.1>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mainly for UK members - new web site for Costumers
Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2006 15:44:06 +0100
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Hi Suzi,
I am so glad you posted this. They simply have all the things i cant have 
here in Denmark including furfelt blanks for new hats.........

Tada da da...............

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2006 11:42 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Mainly for UK members - new web site for Costumers


>
> Thought everyone, but mainly from the U.K. I expect, would like to know 
> that MacCulloch and Wallis has gone live with its online catalogue and 
> ordering service. I thought it was a very good site. If anyone has 
> problems with it, please let me know and I will pass on the information.
>
> www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk
>
> Suzi (A regular customer for mumble-mumble years.)
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: [h-cost] handkerchief hem on linen
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When working with linen, does anyone have tricks for hemming it?  A friend 
has asked me and I rarely work with linen, so I didn't know of any 'tricks" 
offhand, other than the standard hemming techniques.

Thanks in advance,

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
Theatrical Costume Design
"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
All's Well That Ends Well 1.1.65-6, Countess to Bertram
W. Shakespeare

http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com 

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From: "Kelly Grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] handkerchief hem on linen
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If the linen is really fine, I'd suggest a hand rolled hem.  Most of the 
time, the standard hemming techniques work with linen.  Linen is one of 
those yummy fabrics that just does what you ask it to.
Kelly



"Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced 
with danger.  To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, 
then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears"
Caius Merlyn Britannicus





>From: "angelalazear" <angelalazear@sbcglobal.net>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] handkerchief hem on linen
>Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2006 11:18:50 -0800
>
>When working with linen, does anyone have tricks for hemming it?  A friend 
>has asked me and I rarely work with linen, so I didn't know of any 'tricks" 
>offhand, other than the standard hemming techniques.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>angela
>+++++
>Angela F. Lazear
>Cabbage Rose Costumes
>Theatrical Costume Design
>"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
>be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
>and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
>be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
>All's Well That Ends Well 1.1.65-6, Countess to Bertram
>W. Shakespeare
>
>http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mainly for UK members - new web site for Costumers
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Oooooooo!  That takes me back.  My mother taught needlework in South 
London schools, and I can remember going into McCulloch and Wallis with 
her to order supplies, from an early age.  Aladdin's cave!

Jean


Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote
>
>Thought everyone, but mainly from the U.K. I expect, would like to know 
>that MacCulloch and Wallis has gone live with its online catalogue and 
>ordering service. I thought it was a very good site. If anyone has 
>problems with it, please let me know and I will pass on the information.
>
>www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk
>
>Suzi (A regular customer for mumble-mumble years.)
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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Date: Thu, 05 Jan 2006 20:29:32 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Laura de Pola
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At 19:33 05/01/2006, you wrote:
>I still haven't been able to figure how that texture on the partlet
>and head dress is made.  I'm thinking it's some kind of applied
>cording, but am not quite sure.
>
>I've been asked to help with this costume.
>>>1544
>>>http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/l/lotto/1531-/070pola.html
>>>I will likely use the de Toledo pattern for a basis. I've made a
>>>couple gowns with it before so I am familiar with it.
>>>I'm thinking it's a brown wool/ or silk with silk velvet ribbon
>>>appliqued on.  I understand the chemise.  But I don't really
>>>understand the wrap and head covering.  Does anyone have an idea
>>>of  what/ how it's made? thanks!
>>
>>
>>The "wrap" looks like a partlet (I can see a collar) made from a
>>heavily textured fabric, with fringe. It may be a size too small
>>for the wearer, or maybe it's just painted badly.

I found a fabric with a raised pattern for  "Anne Boleyn" a year or 
so ago. It is red/gold brocade and has a raised pattern all over. It 
is very lovely and very expensive. It would not do for copying the 
portrait, but it is an example of a raised pattern being made today. 
The original might have been "stamped" with a die?

You can see mine here if you want.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Sistersuzi/Cropped-Boleyn.jpg

Suzi 


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Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2006 14:41:08 -0600
From: Marie Stewart <maricelt@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] handkerchief hem on linen
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There are several things that pop to mind.

Most of it depends on the weight of the fabric.  In general open work
hems for heavy to medium weight and rolled hems for lightweights.  If
you have a delicate hand an open work hem on a lightweight linen can
be lovely. Do be warned though it's very delicate an can be snagged.

Openwork hems can be made in one pass to create little open triangles,
one additional row can create a serpentine effect or open squares
depending on whether you offset it or not.  More rows can create
further detail.  For example a secondary row of squares (made by two
extra rows of hem stitch gathering) can be filled in with a ribbon or
other decorations.

Good Luck.
Mari



On 1/5/06, angelalazear <angelalazear@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> When working with linen, does anyone have tricks for hemming it?  A friend
> has asked me and I rarely work with linen, so I didn't know of any 'tricks"
> offhand, other than the standard hemming techniques.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Laura de Pola
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>From the portrait, I think these raised circular areas are thread bound 
rings, such the technique used for thread covered buttons. It might just be 
that kind of decorative embroidry for that time. If it's embroidry, it looks 
like the satin stitch in aa heavy thread or metalic yarn. It might be bobbin 
pace wrapped around the rings. I've never seen that before but the gown 
designers often tried different things to make something that no one had 
before.
I found this site that talks about raised Elizabethan embroidery: 
http://moas.atlantia.sca.org/oak/15/eliz.htm
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 3:29 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Laura de Pola


> At 19:33 05/01/2006, you wrote:
>>I still haven't been able to figure how that texture on the partlet
>>and head dress is made.  I'm thinking it's some kind of applied
>>cording, but am not quite sure.
>>
>>I've been asked to help with this costume.
>>>>1544
>>>>http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/l/lotto/1531-/070pola.html
>>>>I will likely use the de Toledo pattern for a basis. I've made a
>>>>couple gowns with it before so I am familiar with it.
>>>>I'm thinking it's a brown wool/ or silk with silk velvet ribbon
>>>>appliqued on.  I understand the chemise.  But I don't really
>>>>understand the wrap and head covering.  Does anyone have an idea
>>>>of  what/ how it's made? thanks!
>>>
>>>
>>>The "wrap" looks like a partlet (I can see a collar) made from a
>>>heavily textured fabric, with fringe. It may be a size too small
>>>for the wearer, or maybe it's just painted badly.
>
> I found a fabric with a raised pattern for  "Anne Boleyn" a year or so 
> ago. It is red/gold brocade and has a raised pattern all over. It is very 
> lovely and very expensive. It would not do for copying the portrait, but 
> it is an example of a raised pattern being made today. The original might 
> have been "stamped" with a die?
>
> You can see mine here if you want.
> http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Sistersuzi/Cropped-Boleyn.jpg
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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Subject: [h-cost] Use of Fabrics?
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I've often looked at the fabrics at 
http://stores.ebay.com/Renaissance-Fabrics and wondered if anyone here 
had used them for Renaissance (general term) or Elizabethan garb? If so, 
what are your thoughts? I realise they are not natural fibres, but what 
did you think of the patterns? Do you have photos of finished gowns or 
doublets you might share with me? I've got some garments to make and am 
thinking about some of these fabrics.
Regards, A. Garden
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References: <EE7611EC-492F-4564-9C51-2DCB97F9F77D@alfalfapress.com><43BB1378.50405@reddawn.net><9B02D6F2-87C9-41CD-8C07-0FE871D25B60@alfalfapress.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Laura de Pola
Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2006 16:55:46 -0500
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If you look closely at the pattern of the threads over the circular shape, 
it does follow a specific pattern. 2 of fabric color then 1 light one. This 
looks to me as if it is natural brown linen with silver threads on the 
circular work. The linen may not have any treatment for a shine but used for 
texture. The petal shapes in the center seen to use 2 stitches for each 
petal. I see one that has 2 but that one may be painted wrong. I've seen 
beads that look like that. SO I concluse this is the embossed embroidery 
with beadwork on natural linen. I think I could create this same texture 
with these suggestions.
The best way to judege it is to try to recreate it using materials of that 
period. I know you will not find that in modern textiles.
This is just my opinion. I have a degree in fabrics and ancient textiles. I 
was taught to look at the details, research ideas and draw conclusion 
without being able to test the original fabric. I studied Peruvian mummy 
fabrics, Egyptian linen and Japanese stitching through history of fabrics. 
It was a pretty well focused curriculum. I learned lots by just looking at 
photographs or portraits. I love the details in fabrics, building and 
nature. I'm a detail person all the way.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 3:29 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Laura de Pola


> At 19:33 05/01/2006, you wrote:
>>I still haven't been able to figure how that texture on the partlet
>>and head dress is made.  I'm thinking it's some kind of applied
>>cording, but am not quite sure.
>>
>>I've been asked to help with this costume.
>>>>1544
>>>>http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/l/lotto/1531-/070pola.html
>>>>I will likely use the de Toledo pattern for a basis. I've made a
>>>>couple gowns with it before so I am familiar with it.
>>>>I'm thinking it's a brown wool/ or silk with silk velvet ribbon
>>>>appliqued on.  I understand the chemise.  But I don't really
>>>>understand the wrap and head covering.  Does anyone have an idea
>>>>of  what/ how it's made? thanks!
>>>
>>>
>>>The "wrap" looks like a partlet (I can see a collar) made from a
>>>heavily textured fabric, with fringe. It may be a size too small
>>>for the wearer, or maybe it's just painted badly.
>
> I found a fabric with a raised pattern for  "Anne Boleyn" a year or so 
> ago. It is red/gold brocade and has a raised pattern all over. It is very 
> lovely and very expensive. It would not do for copying the portrait, but 
> it is an example of a raised pattern being made today. The original might 
> have been "stamped" with a die?
>
> You can see mine here if you want.
> http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Sistersuzi/Cropped-Boleyn.jpg
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
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> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Use of Fabrics?
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I purchased some of the Celtic Cross from them.  I used this on my daughters 
gown.  I find it a bit
to light weight for myself.  If you would like a swatch of it lmk email me 
directly

Lori 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Use of Fabrics?
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http://www.verymerryseamstress.com/court.htm

above is a link showing several gown using that fabric.
You will have to search through all of  the pictures.

She might be using of of the same in this one as well
http://www.verymerryseamstress.com/maryt31.jpg
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Subject: [h-cost] I have the Interview with Vampire movie and can
 help....was movie source..
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Suzi, if you can't readily come up with a copy, I have the movie and can 
capture shots of the gown for you and send them to you.

Saragrace

Suzi Clarke wrote:

>
> I have been asked to quote for a gown from "Interview with the 
> Vampire" and cannot find anything other than a very poor shot. It is 
> the gold ballgown that "Claudia" wears at the dance/ball where she 
> dances with Brad Pitt. Can anyone point me to a picture source please? 
> (Tracie Arnold does not have it.) I may have to go and buy the movie, 
> but I'd rather not!!
>
> Suzi
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 06 Jan 2006 00:16:13 +0000
From: rwfranz <rwfranz@hotpop.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] handkerchief hem on linen
In-reply-to: <BAY107-F1238E37E845944CBF9C7F1912E0@phx.gbl>
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I personally use a narrow-hem presser foot if the linen is light enough 
(pick a scrap and test it). I got my NH presser foot from one of those 
sew-n-vac places for a few dollars; most places that carry presser feet 
have them for not very much more (the Viking dealer here carries them at 
$15 or so, as I recall).

Roger

Kelly Grant wrote:

> If the linen is really fine, I'd suggest a hand rolled hem.  Most of 
> the time, the standard hemming techniques work with linen.  Linen is 
> one of those yummy fabrics that just does what you ask it to.
> Kelly
>
>
>
> "Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, 
> faced with danger.  To have courage, you must think about the dangers 
> in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, 
> despite your fears"
> Caius Merlyn Britannicus
>
>
>
>
>
>> From: "angelalazear" <angelalazear@sbcglobal.net>
>> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Subject: [h-cost] handkerchief hem on linen
>> Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2006 11:18:50 -0800
>>
>> When working with linen, does anyone have tricks for hemming it?  A 
>> friend has asked me and I rarely work with linen, so I didn't know of 
>> any 'tricks" offhand, other than the standard hemming techniques.
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>>
>> angela
>> +++++
>> Angela F. Lazear
>> Cabbage Rose Costumes
>> Theatrical Costume Design
>> "Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
>> be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
>> and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
>> be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
>> All's Well That Ends Well 1.1.65-6, Countess to Bertram
>> W. Shakespeare
>>
>> http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
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>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] dimentional embroidery
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Hi,
As you know i got a lightbox for christmas, and i emediately took it in use.
I drafted a pattern for a ladys bag with gussets and a small flap that 
closes with a button. I make it in silk taffeta.  I have finished the ground 
embroidery and have started with
the dimentional embroidery. I made 5 flower leaves, 2 green leaves and a
calyx and flowerbud in dimentional embroidery. Its embroidered with Eterna
Stranded Silk Floss. I only used 1 strand folded, so for the entire
embroidery you only need to use 5 skeins, of thread. 3 reds, 2 greens, and
then a little yellow. So it is quite inexpensive to embroider with silk.
I need to make the next dimentional embroidery, because the whole motif has
the same flower mirrored 1 time.
Its the latest at the bottom:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/purseembroideries.htm
Yesterday i tryed if i could trace the pattern i want to make on the grey 
waistcoat trough my lightbox, and i could! Happy danse, using a white 
watercolour pencil. This will save me a lot of work.

Bjarne







Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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X-Miltered: at demeter with ID 43BE5602.003 by Joe's j-chkmail (http://j-chkmail.ensmp.fr)!

It is so beautifull!
I never thought of making 3d embroidery but it looks so lovely!
The hardshaped piece with roses is very nice too.
It makes my hand itch to try to make something as nice as your pieces.
Your a huge inspiration!

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hi,
> As you know i got a lightbox for christmas, and i emediately took it 
> in use.
> I drafted a pattern for a ladys bag with gussets and a small flap that 
> closes with a button. I make it in silk taffeta.  I have finished the 
> ground embroidery and have started with
> the dimentional embroidery. I made 5 flower leaves, 2 green leaves and a
> calyx and flowerbud in dimentional embroidery. Its embroidered with 
> Eterna
> Stranded Silk Floss. I only used 1 strand folded, so for the entire
> embroidery you only need to use 5 skeins, of thread. 3 reds, 2 greens, 
> and
> then a little yellow. So it is quite inexpensive to embroider with silk.
> I need to make the next dimentional embroidery, because the whole 
> motif has
> the same flower mirrored 1 time.
> Its the latest at the bottom:
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/purseembroideries.htm
> Yesterday i tryed if i could trace the pattern i want to make on the 
> grey waistcoat trough my lightbox, and i could! Happy danse, using a 
> white watercolour pencil. This will save me a lot of work.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Jumping back online for a little while... I am determined to get things organized around my house and in my office before being on the computer very much.  My office has gifts all over the floor for our subscribers who won a contest. In the middle of all that, is a sewing machine I bought yesterday... still in the box!  Because I am running behind, I am extending the free access to the Library until Monday at 12 am.

Many, many thanks to the people who sent me congrads... I will get back to writing you personally. I hope everyone is enjoying the free access to the Library.  For those who are familiar with our policies and why we have them, you can skip to near the end of this message for an update on recent purchases of books, etc. for the Library.  For those not familiar with our websites, here's the answers to your questions.

An explanation about the rules for the Library and why we charge for access:
We do not allow people to download our images to their computers because of the vast amount of time spent restoring the images...also, all the money spent purchasing the originals.  Where we differ from a lot of websites is the amount of time we spend restoring our images.  You can take a look at http://www.costumegallery.com/1838/plates/cleaning.html to see the process we use for the restoration.  Every image on our site goes through this process.  We do not simply scan our images and put them online.   Another reason for the limitations is the amount of money to purchase these collections.  We can't do all this work and not be paid.  I have well over $10,000 dollars in publications in my office waiting to go online.  Over the years, I have purchased almost the entire decades of publications like Delineator, Ladies Home Journal, lots of Peterson's yearbooks, etiquette books, hairdressing manuals, photo collections, etc... we have teams of people who type the site's contents, others who clean images, and 2-3 webpage designers.  The work everyone does is very detailed and time consuming.  Then add on the cost of the webspace... which is a LOT per month because for  9-10,000 webpages and over 35,000 images.  It took a long time to find a web host who could support the sheer volume of traffic the sites receive, averaging over 500,000 unique visitors per month, and the large amount of content of the websites. On top of that, this is my full time job... not a hobby.  I work every night of the week. Those who know me, know I go to bed at 6 am. LOL! Plus, monthly, the student loan people remind me how much three decades of going to college cost. 

A question frequently asked....
Why don't you just scan the pages and put them in Acrobat?  First off, I really dislike the Acrobat software.  We spend all this time on the images and text because we believe that the material should be presented in a manner that is easily to read, laid-out format that is pleasing to the eye, and organized.  A lot of 19th Century publications aren't formatted in the reader friendly manner.  Sometimes the fashion plates were painted the wrong color or the painter missed all the details.  This is so common of the pre-1890 fashion plates.  Sometimes the descriptions were even mixed up with another one in the issue.  We hand-type instead of using a text reading software, because these programs are not 100% accurate.  They may be good for a present day text but not very inaccurate for old text on aged paper.  Every little speck on a page is picked up by these programs as a character.  This causes more time editing.   When we do our final edits we may break a very lengthy paragraph to make it easier to read.  Sometimes in (  ) I give a brief explanation of a term.  Example: waist (bodice) or waist (waistline) OR girdle (sash or belt) not a 1950s foundation garment.     

Copying rule.... I do not allow people to make more than one copy of a webpage and then to go to a class/workshop and make copies for their friends.  Or broadcast the text across email.  Or worse yet, put the work on a website and claim it as their own.  The last thing has not happened to me, but I do know other webmasters that this have had this upsetting experience.  The only exceptions are for groups that purchase a group subscription, such as a school or organization.  We also do not allow people to copy and paste our content.  This is mainly because students like to go to sites, like mine, and copy and paste our work into their term papers, then claim it is their own work.  The no copy/paste rule cuts down on time talking with their teachers about where their students got the information.  That's why you see copyrights all over our sites.  We have worked on security for years for the sites.  A student can't say they weren't warned.  We are always trying to stay one step ahead. 

Some of our collections are not listed in the books on the Library's frontpage.  I am waiting to compile more articles in certain subject areas before adding their book to the front of the Library.  A good example is a series called Queens of Society.  This project started with a book in my collection.  It was written in 1860, but when QoS area is complete, it will also include more women's biographies/articles from other publications.  I have a very massive collection to add to this new area.  

To view the items added to the Library over the past year, go to http://www.costumegallery.com/updates.htm .  Make sure at the bottom of that webpage to click on PREVIOUS MONTHLY UPDATES.  There are no updates for Dec. 2005.  Since it is our slowest period of the year, we use Dec. through Jan. 15 to organize. 

Two areas you may not have been able to access are the Fashion Color Database (FCD), www.fcdatabase.com and the Costume Encyclopedia.  I had a tech problem with the FCD earlier which is now resolved.  This week, I am typing a new color article to go into the FCD from an 1861 Peterson's magazine.  The Costume Encyclopedia is not open even for subscribers yet.  There links on the bottom of the some webpages, but are there but not functioning yet.  I have the webpages ready for the Encyclopedia but need to do the input into the database.  I placed links on those webpages so that I don't have to go back to the pages and add the URL.  At this moment the Encyclopedia consists of costumes from three books.  You can get previews of some of the Encyclopedia webpages from the Library Updates webpage. Some of the costumes in the Encyclopedia are based on historical figures, some from plays, books, holiday celebrations, fantasy, etc.  It is very extensive and a huge organizational project!   Look for it to open in 2006. 

The FCD, Encyclopedia, and Library all work together.  So you may see links or logos back and forth to one another.  The databases have certain fields listed and links to the direct articles/fashion plates where the costumes or colors are mentioned.  Subscribers have access to Library and FDC presently and eventually the Encyclopedia. 

To do a Search or View All of the contents of the FCD you will need to use these passwords:
budnan5   You do not need the login: cg2003, for this section.

Below is a listing of some of the publications that I purchased in over the past couple of months.  These items will go on the Library's website one day. 

***1897 book of illustrations by Charles Dana Gibson with his Gibson Girls.
***1897 book of a year's worth of issues of a German fashion magazine, Der Bazar.
***1860 & 1861 Peterson's Magazine (entire years of magazines)
***Large collection of original costume renderings for French plays from
1890-1909
***Another large collection of L'Art La Mode French fashion magazines from
1907-1919. These magazines cover all the top fashion designers.
***A History of Men's Hairstyles book
***Three 1892 Young Ladies Journal Magazine... one issue contains embroidery patterns and dozens of fashion plates.
***1913 biography of Rose Bertin. She is considered the first fashion designer. She designed for Marie Antoinette and the French court. I plan to have the entire book online in the Library one day.
***1847, 1860, & 1906 Fashion History books with lots of fashion plates to add to the Costume Encyclopedia.
***1900 Men and Children's Advertising book. This is a book of blanks ads for a retailer to add his business name to. It is a really interesting book from the business side of the industry.
***1918 Pictorial Review Pattern Catalog. Lots of color plates in this one!
***1920 Milady Beautiful magazine... hair and makeup.
***1922 Fashion Theory book, "Color and Design in Dress." This one is different from the one already on the website.
***Fashion Production Terms, Sewing, and Design book.
***1854 & 1914 Etiquette book for Ladies.
***1910 Ladies' Home Journal
***1950s Simplicity catalog will not be in the Library, but fashion color description with be used in the Color Database.
***1856 Frank Leslies fashion magazine
***1926 French civilians costume history book with 300 illustrations
***1812 book with 50 large color costume illustrations of occupations of the people of Britain... I can't wait to get started on this one... everything from the chimney sweep to the military with complete job descriptions.
***Fashion and Famine... won today.
***Another Butterick pattern catalog for fancy dress and masquerade.  These are going in the Encyclopedia too.
***1980s "Dress, Journal of Costume Society of America" with an article about Queen Victoria's Masquerade Balls. YIPPEE!  I am doing a series in the Library about her Balls from the Illustrated London News.  The article gives me a good perspective as to why she gave the Balls.
***1916 book of children's plays including costume illustrations and descriptions.
***Collection of Needlecraft magazines from 1920-1930.

Thanks again to all for making it 10 fun years.  Well it is 7:49 am... I am an 1 1/2 hours past for bed.  The gifts didn't make it into their shipping boxes and the sewing machine is still in its box.  They will be tonight's project....along with my Christmas cards that have turned into New Year's cards.  LOL!  One year they were Mardi Gras cards!  Everyone had a good laugh!
     
Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary

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Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2006 09:32:25 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dimentional embroidery
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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OMG ... that is just beyond words. Your talent never ceases to amaze
me Bjarne.

Chiara


On Fri, January 6, 2006 5:08 am, Bjarne og Leif Drews said:
> Hi,
> As you know i got a lightbox for christmas, and i emediately took it
> in use.
> I drafted a pattern for a ladys bag with gussets and a small flap
> that
> closes with a button. I make it in silk taffeta.  I have finished
> the ground
> embroidery and have started with
> the dimentional embroidery. I made 5 flower leaves, 2 green leaves
> and a
> calyx and flowerbud in dimentional embroidery. Its embroidered with
> Eterna
> Stranded Silk Floss. I only used 1 strand folded, so for the entire
> embroidery you only need to use 5 skeins, of thread. 3 reds, 2
> greens, and
> then a little yellow. So it is quite inexpensive to embroider with
> silk.
> I need to make the next dimentional embroidery, because the whole
> motif has
> the same flower mirrored 1 time.
> Its the latest at the bottom:
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/purseembroideries.htm
> Yesterday i tryed if i could trace the pattern i want to make on the
> grey
> waistcoat trough my lightbox, and i could! Happy danse, using a
> white
> watercolour pencil. This will save me a lot of work.
>
> Bjarne

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From: "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
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I am gearing up for my visit to the Met to document their 16th century
Sicilian Bride underpinning collection and a pair of chopines. I had to
delay from my original date of the 5th - I would be just coming down
from my high right about now, had I gone when I was supposed to. But,
life jumped up and got in the way... 
<snip for length>
So, knowing that we have the time to go into dramatic detail, and
wanting to maximise said time, I am trolling for additional questions to
my own. This is also my first time doing something like this, so I am
fairly sure I haven't thought of everything. 
<snip>
Kathy
=====================

OHMYGOD!  I am green with envy :).  

Any color pics would be great, references for colors will be fantastic.
 Pics of the embroidery w/ something to put it in scale would also be
very much appreciated.  How about pics of the reverse side as well?  And
best estimates on types of embroidery stitches used?  Close-ups of the
construction seams and how they are stitched would also be good.

Enjoy the 'high' and thanks for being willing to share :).

Catherine


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Suzi,
Try this site
www.costumersguide.com

Click on the Research link and Interview with a Vampire is one of the movies listed. There are sevral shots of the blue and the green gowns.

Enjoy!
Wendi

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Suzi,
Try this site
www.costumersguide.com

Click on the Research link and Interview with a Vampire is one of the movies listed. There are sevral shots of the blue and the green gowns.

Enjoy!
Wendi

_______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Italian Underwear/late or missing messages
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At 16:08 06/01/2006, you wrote:
>I am gearing up for my visit to the Met to document their 16th century
>Sicilian Bride underpinning collection and a pair of chopines. I had to
>delay from my original date of the 5th - I would be just coming down
>from my high right about now, had I gone when I was supposed to. But,
>life jumped up and got in the way...
><snip for length>
>So, knowing that we have the time to go into dramatic detail, and
>wanting to maximise said time, I am trolling for additional questions to
>my own. This is also my first time doing something like this, so I am
>fairly sure I haven't thought of everything.
><snip>
>Kathy
>=====================
>
>OHMYGOD!  I am green with envy :).
>
>Any color pics would be great, references for colors will be fantastic.
>  Pics of the embroidery w/ something to put it in scale would also be
>very much appreciated.  How about pics of the reverse side as well?  And
>best estimates on types of embroidery stitches used?  Close-ups of the
>construction seams and how they are stitched would also be good.
>
>Enjoy the 'high' and thanks for being willing to share :).


Is it just me, or are others missing posts. I didn't get Kathy's 
original on this topic, and would have like to read it.

Suzi


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From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] OT painting leotards/velour-cat fur
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I'm doing a production of "CATS" and need some advice.

- Best paint for painting leotards? (nylon/spandex? cotton/spandex?)
I've dyed them solid colors, but only had moderate success with fabric
paint in a tube. I need larger splashes of color than those little
tubes.  My inclination is to use Roscoe supersaturated paints (watered
down) 'cause I know they won't wash out...and these will probably need
to be washed at some point.  Any better ideas?

-Ideas for attaching bits of fur to leotards?

-Best source for cat fur (need long for stage purposes)?

-I have to build some of the unitards (can't buy for some of the bigger
actor/dancers) and plan to use stretch velour for some of them.  Ideas
for painting to retain the velour feel?

Any help would be appreciated!

Kate




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Behind the power curve as normal for me.  I want to thank Gia Gavino for 
her lovely Holiday Gift.  I got a lovely piece of wide lace, some 
chiffon with a woven spot pattern, and very nice roll of gold and white 
trim.  My wife is thinking partlet on her new Italian, I am thinking 
very fancy ruff for ME.

Stephen - Who is never moving during the Holidays AGAIN!

Lavolta Press wrote:

> Are we not going to have the traditional discussion of what 
> costume-related gifts everyone got?
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <C232A65DA6CE09479943F9365D01DA955690C3@mcmail01.wwc.mccc.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT painting leotards/velour-cat fur
Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2006 14:03:11 -0500
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If grad school we used a algae based pigment to make paints to paint on 
canvas and any other fabric. The mix was mixed up to look like pearly soap 
then the pigment was added. The color was heat set and permenant when 
completely dry. Completely laundry friendly once heat set.
Check your local fabric store. I know that Walmart has a wide variety of 
long furry materials, and by the yard at regular width. I saw various colors 
and definetely "cat" colors and patterns. If you don't find the exact 
pattern or need slight variations on one pattern, the fur can be painted 
with acrylic paint, but it will need to be very watered down. Blow dry to 
make it really permenant. I learned that when my daughter painted on some of 
her stuffed animals. I don't know if dye will work but I guess that would be 
according to the fiber content.
Attaching it to lycra or stretchable fabrics is usually done with fabric 
glue in a bottle. In certain areas that have more stretch, you might want to 
place velcro dots and attach fur after the person has the costume on. 
Otherwise the lycra will get small and the fur stay large. Most of the fur 
fabrics do not stretch more thatn a tiny bit. How it affects the stretch is 
determined by where it is on the dancer/performer.
Note of fur: BEFORE you dut the fur, seal the edges with FrawCheck. (or 
super glue). Be prepared with a hand vac or lint brush. That furry hairy 
stuff makes quite a mess when cut. It'll get on your face and make you 
sneeze. Loose little bits can be picked up with  the sticky side of duct 
tape, too. I do just about all of this to keep the flying fur (sorry about 
that) to a minimum.
Remove all fur before drying. DO NOT PUT FAUZ FUR in a dryer. It melts the 
fur into little stiff puffs. Brushing it out does not remove the damage or 
return it to the orginial condition. I now air dry all fauz fabrics and puff 
with low heat dryer. I use a dog brush to brush the fur into shape. I make 
toys and dolls. This is one of the things I learned when I just threw the 
toy into my dryer.... then I wondered why it looked so funny. I realized 
that I melted the fur. Leo the Lion still doesn't look right.
 ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 1:27 PM
Subject: [h-cost] OT painting leotards/velour-cat fur


> I'm doing a production of "CATS" and need some advice.
>
> - Best paint for painting leotards? (nylon/spandex? cotton/spandex?)
> I've dyed them solid colors, but only had moderate success with fabric
> paint in a tube. I need larger splashes of color than those little
> tubes.  My inclination is to use Roscoe supersaturated paints (watered
> down) 'cause I know they won't wash out...and these will probably need
> to be washed at some point.  Any better ideas?
>
> -Ideas for attaching bits of fur to leotards?
>
> -Best source for cat fur (need long for stage purposes)?
>
> -I have to build some of the unitards (can't buy for some of the bigger
> actor/dancers) and plan to use stretch velour for some of them.  Ideas
> for painting to retain the velour feel?
>
> Any help would be appreciated!
>
> Kate
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT painting leotards/velour-cat fur
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I like Jacquard products http://www.jacquardproducts.com/ , although I've never tried to use them with fur.  Their Neopaque line has great coverage and the Luminere line is good for glitzy effects.  I think all of them become permanent with heat-setting.

Janet
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Laura de Pola
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Could it be stump work?

De

-----Original Message-----
I still haven't been able to figure how that texture on the partlet  
and head dress is made.  I'm thinking it's some kind of applied  
cording, but am not quite sure.

Thanks!
Althea


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Subject: [h-cost] photo-decorated dress
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I have now seen two photographs of dresses from, I'd say, the early- to 
mid- 1890s, each decorated with photographs.  The first photo I saw was 
published in _American Album_ (SBN-01892-3-395), a paperback 1968 
compilation of photographs by American Heritage.  This photo is at the 
bottom of page 9, and the wearer is standing next to a camera on a tripod 
which bears a sign saying "Felfer the Artist".  The owner of the second 
photo asked a friend of mine, both of whom wonder why the wearer did it, 
and my friend asked me to post here about it.

My guess is that both dresses have to do with the wearer being a 
photographer's assistant.  My friend guesses that their photo might be of a 
girl in a graduation dress, as the subject looks to be about the age of a 
high-school senior.  Any other opinions?

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20051230191703.76617.qmail@web52106.mail.yahoo.com>	<003001c60d8d$2e0335f0$7c83fea9@CPQ21932199711>	<7.0.0.16.2.20051230142051.022e27b0@surewest.net>	<BAY0-SMTP078A71590D10D4571B80DFA92B0@phx.gbl><6.2.3.4.0.20060104144013.01d48bc8@127.0.0.1>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] I have the Interview with Vampire movie and can
	help....was movie source..
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Try looking at some of the other dresses in the shots. I found some that 
were called ball-gowns for that period. Just different colors.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "WickedFrau" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>; "Suzi Clarke" 
<suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 6:36 PM
Subject: [h-cost] I have the Interview with Vampire movie and can 
help....was movie source..


> Suzi, if you can't readily come up with a copy, I have the movie and can 
> capture shots of the gown for you and send them to you.
>
> Saragrace
>
> Suzi Clarke wrote:
>
>>
>> I have been asked to quote for a gown from "Interview with the Vampire" 
>> and cannot find anything other than a very poor shot. It is the gold 
>> ballgown that "Claudia" wears at the dance/ball where she dances with 
>> Brad Pitt. Can anyone point me to a picture source please? (Tracie Arnold 
>> does not have it.) I may have to go and buy the movie, but I'd rather 
>> not!!
>>
>> Suzi
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2006 15:44:43 -0800
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] re: Japan Vakation question
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I have posted answers to all of these questions.  Please check the
h-cost archives for Bunka Gakuin, Omotesando, Okadaya, Hanazono, Oeno
Park and the Kyoto Museum of Costume.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
Subject: [h-cost] Japan Vakation question
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <20060103144451.B0C08319209@pelian.kabelfoon.nl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Hi,

Does anyone kow more about interesting sites to visit in Japan?
We would like to go somewhere in april/mei.

I know you can make an appointment to see part of the digitial
collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute.
http://www.kci.or.jp/collection/coll-e.html
This sounds quite interesting.
I have the fashion book of the institute.
Has anyone has any experience with their digital collection?
Is it hard to get permission?

The Japanese costume Museum sounds interesting too.

Things I am most interested in are Historical costumes, Fabric stores,
Gothic Lolita clothing.

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I am gearing up for my visit to the Met to document
their 16th century Sicilian Bride underpinning
collection and a pair of chopines. I had to delay from
my original date of the 5th - I would be just coming
down from my high right about now, had I gone when I
was supposed to. But, life jumped up and got in the
way... 

This delay has proven fortuitous in that the curator,
knowing how much we are trying to cover in a short
period of time, gave us an additional 2 hours with the
collection, totalling 6 hours of delerious pleasure
with 2 pairs of drawers, 2 chemises, a shirt, a pair
of stockings and a pair of chopines. Although I don't
have pics of everything I am viewing that day, these
are what I can find:
http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/wardrobe/extcam1.htm
http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/wardrobe/Drawers.JPG
http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/wardrobe/ItalianDrawersQEWUMed.jpg
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/ho/08/eustn/hod_1973.114.4a%2Cb.htm
These items have been variously pictured in books like
Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd, History of
Underclothes, and two of the items will be in the
upcoming posthumous Arnold Shirts book - however if my
guess is right, they won't deal with actual colours of
the embroidery, but most likely will have brilliant
drawings of it. 

So, knowing that we have the time to go into dramatic
detail, and wanting to maximise said time, I am
trolling for additional questions to my own. This is
also my first time doing something like this, so I am
fairly sure I haven't thought of everything. 

I have all kinds of supplies and equipment allowed to
me as long as it is non-destructive, which means as
long as I don't use a flash, cameras are allowed. I
will be bringing along with me a linen tester,
magnifying glass, a DMC floss chart for the polychrome
embroideries, measuring equipment, drawing supplies,
cotton gloves and of course my camera. Adele and I
will be measuring everything initially in mm but will
translate that to imperial while processing our data
so that it is universally readable.

Anyone else out there have burning questions you'd
like answered about these garments?

Kathy

It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
For every beauty there is an eye somewhere to see it. For every truth there is an ear somewhere to hear it. For every love there is a heart somewhere to receive it.
-Ivan Panin


	

	
		
__________________________________________________________ 
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Well, I may not order much from it as I am across the pond, but it sure 
looks nice...I can window shop!

>
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: costume gallery
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Penny:

Thanks for sharing all your thoughts about how and why you do so much to
your materials. I know what you mean about pages in Acrobat -- they can be a
real bear to read, and personally I never touch anything on a website that
has to be read in Acrobat, if I can possibly help it.

But I do have a question about the work you do to the images, one that I
thought others on the list might be interested in also. I wouldn't call what
you do "restoring" the images, but "retouching" or even "redoing" the
images. The example your web site shows, for instance, explains quite
clearly that the *originals* were poorly colored. So changing the color is
not restoring, it's redoing. Redoing is a fine goal, but it's a completely
different goal. I wondered why you chose to do this in what is in many ways
a scholorly venue, where many users (I would think) would be interested in
seeing the originals. Or are most of your users not particularly interested
in that?

I don't mean any criticism of your amazing accomplishment! I am just
curious.

Gail Finke

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: Japan Vakation question
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I have tried but I don't get any results

Cin wrote:

>I have posted answers to all of these questions.  Please check the
>h-cost archives for Bunka Gakuin, Omotesando, Okadaya, Hanazono, Oeno
>Park and the Kyoto Museum of Costume.
>--cin
>Cynthia Barnes
>CinBarnes@gmail.com
>Subject: [h-cost] Japan Vakation question
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Message-ID: <20060103144451.B0C08319209@pelian.kabelfoon.nl>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
>Hi,
>
>Does anyone kow more about interesting sites to visit in Japan?
>We would like to go somewhere in april/mei.
>
>I know you can make an appointment to see part of the digitial
>collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute.
>http://www.kci.or.jp/collection/coll-e.html
>This sounds quite interesting.
>I have the fashion book of the institute.
>Has anyone has any experience with their digital collection?
>Is it hard to get permission?
>
>The Japanese costume Museum sounds interesting too.
>
>Things I am most interested in are Historical costumes, Fabric stores,
>Gothic Lolita clothing.
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>  
>


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From: "Angela Lazear-CRC" <cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <C232A65DA6CE09479943F9365D01DA955690C3@mcmail01.wwc.mccc.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT painting leotards/velour-cat fur
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Kate

Dharma (www.dharmatrading.com) has some really nice fabric paints that I 
have successfully used on some nylon lycra content fabrics.  Nothing quite 
so stretchy as what you're undertaking, but they (the paints) were very 
washable and were all water-soluble)

I was creating a jumpsuit for the Pharoah in "Joseph...Dreamcoat" and 
utilized stamps to press on my designs in the paint.  You might be able to 
stamp on your animal print. The stamp remains on the surface, giving good 
color, yet leaving the fabric stretchy underneath since not completely 
saturated through.

>
> -Best source for cat fur (need long for stage purposes)?

Fur outlets on the net: http://www.fauxpawfurs.com/; 
http://www.furoutlet.com/
>
> > -Ideas for attaching bits of fur to leotards?

I usually cut the fur from underneath to avoid the "shedding" problem.  It 
can be sewn that way as well.   However, given the show and the kind of fur 
you will want, I would consider utilizing the new chenille yarns that are 
available.  I recently used them on a dance costume to create a shattered 
look, and they would probably read as fur if you used the right quantity. 
The yarn would be easily attached, either by hand or with zig zag stitching. 
If I were doing the project, I would probably attach the yarn to a loose 
sweater knit and create my own version of long haired fur.  Perhaps even a 
combo of both, with the yarn providing some length sewn into the fur patches 
would work.

The fur I have found available is all somewhat stiff and does not lend 
itself to being sewn onto a dance leotard without limiting some of the 
flexibility a leotard is intended to provide.

>
> -I have to build some of the unitards (can't buy for some of the bigger 
> actor/dancers) and plan to use stretch velour for some of them.  Ideas
> for painting to retain the velour feel?
>
Again, I had success with stamping.  You might even use a large piece of 
sponge to apply the paint to the surface of the fabric.

Best of luck

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
Theatrical Costume Design
"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
All's Well That Ends Well 1.1.65-6, Countess to Bertram
W. Shakespeare

http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com 

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>I am gearing up for my visit to the Met to document their 16th century
>Sicilian Bride underpinning collection and a pair of chopines. I had to
>delay from my original date of the 5th - I would be just coming down
>from my high right about now, had I gone when I was supposed to. But,
>life jumped up and got in the way...
><snip for length>
>So, knowing that we have the time to go into dramatic detail, and
>wanting to maximise said time, I am trolling for additional questions to
>my own. This is also my first time doing something like this, so I am
>fairly sure I haven't thought of everything.
><snip>
>Kathy

Textiles (weaves, weights, threads and fibers) are what I'd really like to 
know as well. Mazzaoui documents cotton being used in undergarments by this 
time, so linen cannot be assumed.  Drewl, drewl....

Beth 

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Wow! I'm speachless!
Kelly



"Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced 
with danger.  To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, 
then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears"
Caius Merlyn Britannicus





>From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] dimentional embroidery
>Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2006 12:08:45 +0100
>
>Hi,
>As you know i got a lightbox for christmas, and i emediately took it in 
>use.
>I drafted a pattern for a ladys bag with gussets and a small flap that 
>closes with a button. I make it in silk taffeta.  I have finished the 
>ground embroidery and have started with
>the dimentional embroidery. I made 5 flower leaves, 2 green leaves and a
>calyx and flowerbud in dimentional embroidery. Its embroidered with Eterna
>Stranded Silk Floss. I only used 1 strand folded, so for the entire
>embroidery you only need to use 5 skeins, of thread. 3 reds, 2 greens, and
>then a little yellow. So it is quite inexpensive to embroider with silk.
>I need to make the next dimentional embroidery, because the whole motif has
>the same flower mirrored 1 time.
>Its the latest at the bottom:
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/purseembroideries.htm
>Yesterday i tryed if i could trace the pattern i want to make on the grey 
>waistcoat trough my lightbox, and i could! Happy danse, using a white 
>watercolour pencil. This will save me a lot of work.
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Laura de Pola
Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2006 16:55:24 -0600
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How odd, this post was sent two - three days ago way before another person
had said anything about the possibility of it being stumpwork and now it
shows up.
Anyway, I have seen something like this partlet but for the life of me I
can't seem to remember where or what kind of technique it is. I have a
feeling that I have seen the technique done by a long past relative but not
sure.
De

-----Original Message-----
Could it be stump work?

De


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I think the system is hiccupping. I just got one of my posts that I had sent
days ago.
De

-----Original Message-----
Is it just me, or are others missing posts. I didn't get Kathy's
original on this topic, and would have like to read it.

Suzi


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Laura de Pola
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> How odd, this post was sent two - three days ago way before another person
> had said anything about the possibility of it being stumpwork and now it
> shows up.
> Anyway, I have seen something like this partlet but for the life of me I
> can't seem to remember where or what kind of technique it is. I have a
> feeling that I have seen the technique done by a long past relative but
not
> sure.

There is a pair of sleeves cut from late 17thC fabric that is decorated and
has a very similar texture. A close up is seen in Historical Fashion in
Detail.. or Historic Fashion in Detail.. I can never remember. Also the
sleeves are seen in a catalogue from the Ehizabeth I exhibition at the
National Maritime Museum (UK.)

Fat cord is covered in the came colour silk as the ground and sewn down with
stitches in the same silk. The stitches seem to rest in the grooves of the
cording underneath so you get the same texture as the cording. There are
bugle beads sewn down and tufts all worked with the same silk as well. I
think this is going tobe the closest technique for the partlet.


In regards to the recent bugginess. I have requently in the last few months
had posts arrive out of order. Not just on this list either.

michaela
http://costumes.glittersweet.com



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Subject: [h-cost] Re:(h-cost) hatmaking
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Dawn,
 
What kind of hatmaking are you interested in?  Do you want to do  buckram, 
felt or straw?  Are you looking at flat pattern construction in  buckram or 
pulling on blocks?
 
I have been a professional milliner for 16 years working for  Disney and for 
10 years at The Pageant of the Masters in Laguna  Beach.
 
>From the Neck Up, as others have mentioned,  is considered  the best 
reference, but there are other choices based on your area of  interest.
 
Millinery requires patience and practice. Lots of both.  
 
If I can answer any specific questions, please let me know.
 
Mary LaVenture
 
 
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From: Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Laura de Pola
Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2006 11:33:51 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I still haven't been able to figure how that texture on the partlet  
and head dress is made.  I'm thinking it's some kind of applied  
cording, but am not quite sure.

Thanks!
Althea

On Jan 3, 2006, at 4:14 PM, Dawn wrote:

> Althea Turner wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>> I've been asked to help with this costume.
>> 1544
>> http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/l/lotto/1531-/070pola.html
>> I will likely use the de Toledo pattern for a basis. I've made a   
>> couple gowns with it before so I am familiar with it.
>> I'm thinking it's a brown wool/ or silk with silk velvet ribbon   
>> appliqued on.  I understand the chemise.  But I don't really   
>> understand the wrap and head covering.  Does anyone have an idea  
>> of  what/ how it's made? thanks!
>
>
> The "wrap" looks like a partlet (I can see a collar) made from a  
> heavily textured fabric, with fringe. It may be a size too small  
> for the wearer, or maybe it's just painted badly.
>
> Not sure what's going on with the headdress in the same fabric.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Althea Turner
althea@alfalfapress.com

"Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have  
company in their ignorance, they don't want people to look into  
anything; they want us to believe like peasants and not ask the  
reasons behind things."
William of Conches, 12th century


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: costume gallery
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Hi Gail,

I do the same thing.  If a site goes to Acrobat, I shut it down.  I gave the 
software many chances... still don't like it.

A very good question... I don't mind answering about my usage of the word 
restoration.

Three definitions of restoration from my old gigantic Webster's Dictionary. 
LOL!  Dusting the book off.  Only for you Gail will I dust today!

1. A restoring or being restored.
2. A putting or bringing back into a former, normal, or unimpaired state or 
condition.
3. A representation of the original form or structure.  Reconstruction.
Syn. replacement, re-established, renovation, reinstatement, revival, 
recovery.  A modern word in the recording industry is digitally remastered. 
YUCK!  My son gave me a CD for Christmas that wasn't digitally remastered. 
Sounded like 1960s AM radio. Only gift I have ever returned!

The problems with the originals images is that they are in such poor 
condition..  Water stains, age stains, chipped pages, torn pages, color 
faded 75% of the time, people writing on the pages, etc.  If you could see 
the condition of some of these images in their raw form, you would say a 
prayer over them and never touch them.  Now some of our collections are in 
excellent conditions: 19th Century French Peasants book, Bon Ton collection, 
my recent purchases of the French play costume renderings collection, and 
the 1814 British occupations books. The 1814 book was made exclusively for a 
wealthy person in England, and had been in a family collection for years. 
But I purchased all these at top dollar for my budget. Those purchases are 
rare for me but I believe their contents will greatly help our website 
visitors.  I actually purchased them more for the subject matter than the 
condition of the images.  Those images need very little work and are more 
from an organizational project that cleaning the graphics.  Go on eBay and 
see how much the Bon Ton images starting bids are.

I will pay high end for certain topics.  The money spent on one high-end 
collection, I could have purchased several other collections in not-so-good 
condition.  Now high end for me, is definitely not what high-end for the art 
world.  Sometimes, I will see these items on eBay and they have no bids 
because the starting price is too high.  I then privately write the dealers 
or private owner and ask if they can pull the auction and sell to me 
privately.  I explain to the dealer my purpose for needing the collection or 
book and let them see my online Library.  I feel that I am saving a 
collection that is being split up and sold individually.  I can present the 
collection as a whole. This was the case of the 1814 British collection. 
The dealer took book apart and was selling them individually.  After 
explaining to him and  that I want to save the collection, he came way down 
off his eBay price and sold me the entire collection.  Not only did he sent 
me the plates, but he included the book's description pages of the 
occupations.  Those pages would have probably ended up in the garbage. What 
a wonderful soul he is for wanting to sell it as a collection to me.  It 
took a lot of emails to convince him that the entire collection needed 
saving.  As for the French plays renderings... I saw two of these plates on 
eBay.  I wrote the dealer and asked if she had more like it.  She had a 
collection of a couple of hundred of renderings that this artist did for the 
plays and some for fashion designers.  She wanted in the thousands for it. 
No way!  I'm not rich.  She gave me an option to purchase the theatrical or 
fashion designer collections at a lower price.  I love the designers, but 
couldn't pass up the theater.  So the fashion designer collection was broken 
up and sold individually.  Made me feel like I had Sophie's Choice.  Which 
child do I love more?

When our images in sad condition are repainted, our first step is to make a 
palette of the colors on the images.  Sometimes we do not need to repaint 
the entire image.  But a majority of the pre-1870 images need to be 
partially or completely repainted.  The worse years for bad paint jobs in 
the books were the 1830-1860s.  I have one sad-looking lady (my images are 
called ladies, men, or children) that I have been working on back and forth 
for a year.  The original painting is so messed up.  Kimiko worked on the 
majority of 1838 images for me.  She can testify as to how bad those images 
really looked.  I scanned the illustration pages and photocopied the text 
pages of that book then put it back on the shelf.  It will probably never be 
open again as long as I own it.  When Kim worked on each image, she had a 
full description of each costume.  The original scans are at a high 
resolution to try to pick up the original colors as much as possible. 
Believe me when you are repainting these images, you get to a point you want 
to pull your hair out.  The originals are in such bad condition.  You just 
have to get away from it for a few days.  When an image is complete, we are 
on top of the world.  It is such a wonderful feeling to completed an image, 
as the description's author had  intended for it to look like.  YIPPEE! 
After 160 something years later, the author's vision has been fulfilled!

Other problems occur with these illustrations in the book.   The ink in the 
type in the books have bleed through on the images.    The type letter were 
struck so hard that the ink or impression would go through to the image. 
When you scan these problem images, the ink or impression shows up in the 
scan. These problems even hurt the b&w images.  So we have to clean that up 
too.  This happened so much in these 1838 images.  Being a teacher I learned 
to read students work upside down or backwards.  On a few of these images, I 
could read the entire corresponding text page *backwards* on the color 
fashion plates.  Want to hear our graphics people grip... work on one of 
those images!  You have to take lots of breaks!

When I decided to start this repainting or restoration project of fashion 
plates, was when I went to the London Gallery and saw a very popular 
painting.  I have forgotten the name of it, but it is the medieval pregnant 
woman and the man in the beaver hat. I was so-o-o disappointed to see the 
original, that I almost cried.  The oil paint was so cracked and was badly 
in need of restoration.  I thought please just put it in a safe place out of 
the light to preserve it.

If our images were being presented as a piece of artwork or for reselling 
the actual fashion plates, I could see showing the original scans.  But our 
goal is education of past fashions. I believe people would like to see the 
details of the costumes and previously didn't even notice them because a 
painter of the time did a poor job.  Our graphic artist who have worked on 
these images can tell you how frustrating it is to have a dress described in 
the text as having blue skirt with violet trim and the trim was painted 
yellow.  Or if that dress had a violet sash and it was painted over green 
because the painter was in a hurry to be paid by piecework.  I truly don't 
believe that the intentions the fashion author was to have these goofs or 
they would have printed the descriptions as they did.  The problem why these 
goofs were allowed was because these magazines were very popular and I think 
they needed to speed up production time.  The ladies who painted the plates 
needed the money and were paid by piece.  To get more pieces done *some* did 
sloppy work. Prior to this period the fashion plates painting was so much 
better.  But not as many people had access to these publications, so the 
demand was low.  The painter could take their time.

Generally when the painter took their time, their is a big difference in the 
quality of the images.  This is so true in the original renderings of the 
French plays.  My lot contains the original costume designer's renderings 
for these plays.  They are SO beautiful it is unreal!  Going on memory, but 
I think there are about 20 plays represented in the collection.  Each sheet 
has app. five costume renderings.  FYI, the bulk of the work behind this 
project will be the research.  I am not that familiar with French plays of 
that period.  I do recognize some of the actresses' names, but I want the 
homework done before they go on the web. I will spend little time working on 
the images on the computer because of their excellent condition.

The amount of research that goes behind these projects can go on for years. 
I can't even try to guess the amount of  research projects that are 
on-going.  Even when they are on the web, the research continues.  Costume 
research is like genealogy, you turn over one stone and then the next one 
needs turning over.  And then, Oh my goodness, you find a skeleton under all 
those stones.  That leads you to a whole new train of thought.

My newest venture is a computer drawing tablet (WACOM to the computer 
Geeks).  I have wanted one since I first saw it at a publishing house in 
1996.  My husband got me one for Christmas!!!  I won't touch tablet until I 
have read the manual.  It looks so promising for speeding up the time we use 
on images.  That leads me to technology....

Once you move into the 20th Century, the printing technology became so much 
better.  The 20th Century images take far less of our time to work on 
compared to the 19th Century.  The 20th Century image colors aren't as 
faded, the description generally matches the fashion in the plate. The 
machine print image details are more defined than the 19th Century 
hand-painted.

LOL!  Back to the CD being digitally remastered from the beginning of the 
message.  Compare what we do to what the music industry is doing to old 
recordings.  I don't want to call what we do to the images as digitally 
remastering.... don't think I have mastered but a couple of thinks in my 
life but giving birth to only male children, and collecting dust.   Those 
things I have mastered!

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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From: "kelly grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Use of Fabrics?
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I have used them in the past, for Renn stuff and 18thCstuff.  I like how the 
fabric drapes, very rich.  Not sure I'd want to use this fabric if I were 
wearing the garment outside, say in Pennsic heat, or warmer.  But for indoor 
events, and where I live, it worked out well.

There's a photo of one of the dresses on my projects page 
http://www.goldenoakinn.com/projects_estela.htm
scroll down to the bottom, it's Gavlinne's crown tournement dress.

The 18thC dress fabric came from another supplier, long before EBay.  It was 
covered in chrysanthemums, yummy, and made a really nice sacque.

Kelly/estela
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "A & J Garden" <garden@earthlydelights.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 5:38 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Use of Fabrics?


> I've often looked at the fabrics at 
> http://stores.ebay.com/Renaissance-Fabrics and wondered if anyone here had 
> used them for Renaissance (general term) or Elizabethan garb? If so, what 
> are your thoughts? I realise they are not natural fibres, but what did you 
> think of the patterns? Do you have photos of finished gowns or doublets 
> you might share with me? I've got some garments to make and am thinking 
> about some of these fabrics.
> Regards, A. Garden
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
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 A. Garden writes
I've often looked at the fabrics at http://stores.ebay.com/Renaissance-Fabrics and wondered if anyone here had used them for Renaissance (general term) or Elizabethan garb? If so, what are your thoughts? I realise they are not natural fibres, but what did you think of the patterns? Do you have photos of finished gowns or doublets you might share with me? I've got some garments to make and am thinking about some of these fabrics. 
 
Hi,
  I just recently bought some brocade from this store for an elizabethan gown. The fabric is beautiful. The colors are vibrant and the pattern is great. I haven't finished the dress yet, so I don't have pictures, but as long as you know that the fabric isn't period correct I would go for it.
                                 Tania M. Pembroke
 
-----Original Message-----
From: A & J Garden <garden@earthlydelights.com.au>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Fri, 06 Jan 2006 08:38:25 +1100
Subject: [h-cost] Use of Fabrics?


I've often looked at the fabrics at http://stores.ebay.com/Renaissance-Fabrics and wondered if anyone here had used them for Renaissance (general term) or Elizabethan garb? If so, what are your thoughts? I realise they are not natural fibres, but what did you think of the patterns? Do you have photos of finished gowns or doublets you might share with me? I've got some garments to make and am thinking about some of these fabrics. 
Regards, A. Garden 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: costume gallery
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That's an interesting process.  Since I haven't been to your site, these not being my era's of interest, I'll make a suggestion that you may have already done.
  To help explain your process, show a sample of one of these images in the before and after states.  I would think the appreciation factor would go up if it was understood a little more of why you working these images as you are.
   
  just a thought
  alex

Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:
  Hi Gail,

I do the same thing. If a site goes to Acrobat, I shut it down. I gave the 
software many chances... still don't like it.

A very good question... I don't mind answering about my usage of the word 
restoration.

Three definitions of restoration from my old gigantic Webster's Dictionary. 
LOL! Dusting the book off. Only for you Gail will I dust today!

1. A restoring or being restored.
2. A putting or bringing back into a former, normal, or unimpaired state or 
condition.
3. A representation of the original form or structure. Reconstruction.
Syn. replacement, re-established, renovation, reinstatement, revival, 
recovery. A modern word in the recording industry is digitally remastered. 
YUCK! My son gave me a CD for Christmas that wasn't digitally remastered. 
Sounded like 1960s AM radio. Only gift I have ever returned!

The problems with the originals images is that they are in such poor 
condition.. Water stains, age stains, chipped pages, torn pages, color 
faded 75% of the time, people writing on the pages, etc. If you could see 
the condition of some of these images in their raw form, you would say a 
prayer over them and never touch them. Now some of our collections are in 
excellent conditions: 19th Century French Peasants book, Bon Ton collection, 
my recent purchases of the French play costume renderings collection, and 
the 1814 British occupations books. The 1814 book was made exclusively for a 
wealthy person in England, and had been in a family collection for years. 
But I purchased all these at top dollar for my budget. Those purchases are 
rare for me but I believe their contents will greatly help our website 
visitors. I actually purchased them more for the subject matter than the 
condition of the images. Those images need very little work and are more 
from an organizational project that cleaning the graphics. Go on eBay and 
see how much the Bon Ton images starting bids are.

I will pay high end for certain topics. The money spent on one high-end 
collection, I could have purchased several other collections in not-so-good 
condition. Now high end for me, is definitely not what high-end for the art 
world. Sometimes, I will see these items on eBay and they have no bids 
because the starting price is too high. I then privately write the dealers 
or private owner and ask if they can pull the auction and sell to me 
privately. I explain to the dealer my purpose for needing the collection or 
book and let them see my online Library. I feel that I am saving a 
collection that is being split up and sold individually. I can present the 
collection as a whole. This was the case of the 1814 British collection. 
The dealer took book apart and was selling them individually. After 
explaining to him and that I want to save the collection, he came way down 
off his eBay price and sold me the entire collection. Not only did he sent 
me the plates, but he included the book's description pages of the 
occupations. Those pages would have probably ended up in the garbage. What 
a wonderful soul he is for wanting to sell it as a collection to me. It 
took a lot of emails to convince him that the entire collection needed 
saving. As for the French plays renderings... I saw two of these plates on 
eBay. I wrote the dealer and asked if she had more like it. She had a 
collection of a couple of hundred of renderings that this artist did for the 
plays and some for fashion designers. She wanted in the thousands for it. 
No way! I'm not rich. She gave me an option to purchase the theatrical or 
fashion designer collections at a lower price. I love the designers, but 
couldn't pass up the theater. So the fashion designer collection was broken 
up and sold individually. Made me feel like I had Sophie's Choice. Which 
child do I love more?

When our images in sad condition are repainted, our first step is to make a 
palette of the colors on the images. Sometimes we do not need to repaint 
the entire image. But a majority of the pre-1870 images need to be 
partially or completely repainted. The worse years for bad paint jobs in 
the books were the 1830-1860s. I have one sad-looking lady (my images are 
called ladies, men, or children) that I have been working on back and forth 
for a year. The original painting is so messed up. Kimiko worked on the 
majority of 1838 images for me. She can testify as to how bad those images 
really looked. I scanned the illustration pages and photocopied the text 
pages of that book then put it back on the shelf. It will probably never be 
open again as long as I own it. When Kim worked on each image, she had a 
full description of each costume. The original scans are at a high 
resolution to try to pick up the original colors as much as possible. 
Believe me when you are repainting these images, you get to a point you want 
to pull your hair out. The originals are in such bad condition. You just 
have to get away from it for a few days. When an image is complete, we are 
on top of the world. It is such a wonderful feeling to completed an image, 
as the description's author had intended for it to look like. YIPPEE! 
After 160 something years later, the author's vision has been fulfilled!

Other problems occur with these illustrations in the book. The ink in the 
type in the books have bleed through on the images. The type letter were 
struck so hard that the ink or impression would go through to the image. 
When you scan these problem images, the ink or impression shows up in the 
scan. These problems even hurt the b&w images. So we have to clean that up 
too. This happened so much in these 1838 images. Being a teacher I learned 
to read students work upside down or backwards. On a few of these images, I 
could read the entire corresponding text page *backwards* on the color 
fashion plates. Want to hear our graphics people grip... work on one of 
those images! You have to take lots of breaks!

When I decided to start this repainting or restoration project of fashion 
plates, was when I went to the London Gallery and saw a very popular 
painting. I have forgotten the name of it, but it is the medieval pregnant 
woman and the man in the beaver hat. I was so-o-o disappointed to see the 
original, that I almost cried. The oil paint was so cracked and was badly 
in need of restoration. I thought please just put it in a safe place out of 
the light to preserve it.

If our images were being presented as a piece of artwork or for reselling 
the actual fashion plates, I could see showing the original scans. But our 
goal is education of past fashions. I believe people would like to see the 
details of the costumes and previously didn't even notice them because a 
painter of the time did a poor job. Our graphic artist who have worked on 
these images can tell you how frustrating it is to have a dress described in 
the text as having blue skirt with violet trim and the trim was painted 
yellow. Or if that dress had a violet sash and it was painted over green 
because the painter was in a hurry to be paid by piecework. I truly don't 
believe that the intentions the fashion author was to have these goofs or 
they would have printed the descriptions as they did. The problem why these 
goofs were allowed was because these magazines were very popular and I think 
they needed to speed up production time. The ladies who painted the plates 
needed the money and were paid by piece. To get more pieces done *some* did 
sloppy work. Prior to this period the fashion plates painting was so much 
better. But not as many people had access to these publications, so the 
demand was low. The painter could take their time.

Generally when the painter took their time, their is a big difference in the 
quality of the images. This is so true in the original renderings of the 
French plays. My lot contains the original costume designer's renderings 
for these plays. They are SO beautiful it is unreal! Going on memory, but 
I think there are about 20 plays represented in the collection. Each sheet 
has app. five costume renderings. FYI, the bulk of the work behind this 
project will be the research. I am not that familiar with French plays of 
that period. I do recognize some of the actresses' names, but I want the 
homework done before they go on the web. I will spend little time working on 
the images on the computer because of their excellent condition.

The amount of research that goes behind these projects can go on for years. 
I can't even try to guess the amount of research projects that are 
on-going. Even when they are on the web, the research continues. Costume 
research is like genealogy, you turn over one stone and then the next one 
needs turning over. And then, Oh my goodness, you find a skeleton under all 
those stones. That leads you to a whole new train of thought.

My newest venture is a computer drawing tablet (WACOM to the computer 
Geeks). I have wanted one since I first saw it at a publishing house in 
1996. My husband got me one for Christmas!!! I won't touch tablet until I 
have read the manual. It looks so promising for speeding up the time we use 
on images. That leads me to technology....

Once you move into the 20th Century, the printing technology became so much 
better. The 20th Century images take far less of our time to work on 
compared to the 19th Century. The 20th Century image colors aren't as 
faded, the description generally matches the fashion in the plate. The 
machine print image details are more defined than the 19th Century 
hand-painted.

LOL! Back to the CD being digitally remastered from the beginning of the 
message. Compare what we do to what the music industry is doing to old 
recordings. I don't want to call what we do to the images as digitally 
remastering.... don't think I have mastered but a couple of thinks in my 
life but giving birth to only male children, and collecting dust. Those 
things I have mastered!

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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Subject: [h-cost] RE: MacCulloch and Wallis
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Thank you so much for posting that, Suzi - I find the staff in the shop very 
intimidating, so it will be great to order via the safe distance of the 
internet!

Kate


>Message: 2
>Date: Wed, 04 Jan 2006 22:42:22 +0000
>From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
>Subject: [h-cost] Mainly for UK members - new web site for Costumers
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.0.20060104223933.01d95220@127.0.0.1>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
>
>Thought everyone, but mainly from the U.K. I expect, would like to
>know that MacCulloch and Wallis has gone live with its online
>catalogue and ordering service. I thought it was a very good site. If
>anyone has problems with it, please let me know and I will pass on
>the information.
>
>www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk
>
>Suzi (A regular customer for mumble-mumble years.)
>


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	Sat, 07 Jan 2006 11:30:33 EST
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From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:Italian Underwear
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I'm still in shock they are letting me do this, to be
honest. :-) I'm waiting for the "HA! We got ya!" when
I arrive for my appointment. ;-) 

> OHMYGOD!  I am green with envy :).  

I can take colour pics, but I can't publish them
without permission. I can draw to my hearts' content
based on my photos, however. I might just set up a
photo gallery for like a week or something and say go
nuts, I'm taking it down in 7 days... but you never
heard me say that. ;-) 
That was my big sticking point with the photos they
have on file- no size reference. I could count the
thread of the fabric they were so close up, but with
no point of reference, it's useless. 
I am hoping to get some construction pics and specs as
well, I am not sure if they will allow me to move the
garments that much though. I really, really hope they
do. 
Ahh, good point, I'll bring my embroidery encyclopedia
so I can compare them to something with a proper name,
since the world of embroidery and sewing have such
inexact or multiple titles for their techniques. I'm
trying my best to make this as concrete as possible. 
I am also going to attempt to "reconstruct" the
original wearer so I can better understand *how* these
garments were worn. Looking at the underwear, they
have significantly different crotch depths. One must
have been worn at the hip, the other at the waist. If
so, then that alters the length of the leg - did it
come to her knee? Above? Below? The sleeves look a bit
long just hanging there, just how much was fullness,
and how much was arm length? I can't really estimate
her girth really since I am dealing with ease in the
cuffs, but I might be able to get something out of the
stockings with a calf or ankle measurement.
My sister-in-law was pre-med and still has ber
biomechanics books kicking around. She's going to dig
the one up with the human anatomy formulas in it,
hopefully I will be able to extract some useful
numbers from the clothing and have a better guess at
the size of the woman whom used to wear these clothes.

Kathy
 
> Any color pics would be great, references for colors
> will be fantastic.
>  Pics of the embroidery w/ something to put it in
> scale would also be
> very much appreciated.  How about pics of the
> reverse side as well?  And
> best estimates on types of embroidery stitches used?
>  Close-ups of the
> construction seams and how they are stitched would
> also be good.

*******
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Italian Underwear/late or
> missing messages
 
> Is it just me, or are others missing posts. I didn't
> get Kathy's 
> original on this topic, and would have like to read
> it.

Suzi,
As a side note, I am in the middle of scanning the
Livrstkammaren Journal right now. I hope to have it
done soon. I'll be starting on the translations right
after that.

This is essentially the original post:


I am gearing up for my visit to the Met to document
their 16th century Sicilian Bride underpinning
collection and a pair of chopines.  I had to delay
from my original date of the 5th - I would be just
coming down from my high right about now, had I gone
when I was supposed to.
But, life jumped up and got in the way...

This delay has proven fortuitous in that the curator,
knowing how much we are trying to cover in a short
period of time, gave us an additional 2 hours with the
collection, totalling 6 hours of delerious pleasure
with 2 pairs of drawers, 2 chemises, a shirt, a pair
of stockings and a pair of chopines.  Although I don't
have pics of everything I am viewing that day, these
are what I can find:
http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/wardrobe/extcam1.htm
http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/wardrobe/Drawers.JPG
http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/wardrobe/ItalianDrawersQEWUMed.jpg
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/ho/08/eustn/hod_1973.114.4a%2Cb.htm
These items have been variously pictured in books like
Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd, History of
Underclothes, and two of the items will be in the
upcoming posthumous Arnold Shirts book - however if my
guess is right, they won't deal with actual colours of
the embroidery, but most likely will have brilliant
drawings of it.
So, knowing that we have the time to go into dramatic
detail, and wanting to maximise said time, I am
trolling for additional questions to my own.  I have
all kinds of supplies and equipment allowed to me as
long as it is non-destructive, which means as long as
I don't use a flash, cameras are allowed.  I will be
bringing along with me a linen tester, magnifying
glass, a DMC floss chart for the polychrome
embroideries, measuring equipment, drawing supplies,
cotton gloves and of course my camera.  Adele and I
will be measuring everything initially in mm but will
translate that to imperial while processing our data
so that it is universally readable.

Anyone else out there have burning questions you'd
like answered about these garments?

It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
For every beauty there is an eye somewhere to see it. For every truth there is an ear somewhere to hear it. For every love there is a heart somewhere to receive it.
-Ivan Panin


	

	
		
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Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd - Janet Arnold

I live near Harrisburg, Pennsylvania. Does anyone in that area have this book so I can borrow it. I can't afford to buy one. Please contact me if you'd be willing to loan this treasure for me to look at and use for my costumes.
Sincerely,
Becky Rautine
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Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd - Janet Arnold

I live near Harrisburg, Pennsylvania. Does anyone in that area have this book so I can borrow it. I can't afford to buy one. Please contact me if you'd be willing to loan this treasure for me to look at and use for my costumes.
Sincerely,
Becky Rautine
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly OT on Movie Costume picture source
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I found this fashion plate that looks very similar to the one in the movie. 
It may be a starting point for you. 1870 time period.
http://www.costumegallery.com/LadysFriend/Dresses/Color/cos3.htm

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2006 10:35 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Slightly OT on Movie Costume picture source


>
> Suzi - why not check your local library? That was a popular enough movie, 
> I
> would think they may have it - and it costs nothing! (or perhaps a very
> small fee, depending on your library)
>
>
> *******************************************************************
> Rebecca Schmitt
> aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence
> Bristol Renaissance Faire
>
> My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash
> *******************************************************************
>
>
>>
>>
>> Yes, it was a bustle gown.  I copied the blue dress, from a
>> borrowed DVD, but cannot get it again from the owner. You
>> have to "Join" the shop here to rent videos and DVDs, and I
>> feel it is a nuisance for just one movie!
>>
>> Thanks anyway
>>
>> Suzi
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Use of Fabrics?
Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2006 09:31:43 -0500
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I saw this vender at the Ren Faire this year and the assortment was 
wonderful. I had a hard time deciding what to buy. I found one that is the 
right color for me and them had to choose the pattern. It was a hard 
decision. I wanted them all. I bought the garnet and gold Fleur-de-lis 
fabric. I showed it to a lady that makes costumes for that period and she 
said it was a great fabric. It isn't the historically correct fiber but it 
looks like the rich brocades of the 1560 1580. I plan to use my gabric to 
make a costume similar to one worn by Elenora de Toledo portraits.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "A & J Garden" <garden@earthlydelights.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 4:38 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Use of Fabrics?


> I've often looked at the fabrics at 
> http://stores.ebay.com/Renaissance-Fabrics and wondered if anyone here had 
> used them for Renaissance (general term) or Elizabethan garb? If so, what 
> are your thoughts? I realise they are not natural fibres, but what did you 
> think of the patterns? Do you have photos of finished gowns or doublets 
> you might share with me? I've got some garments to make and am thinking 
> about some of these fabrics.
> Regards, A. Garden
> _______________________________________________
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need to find a look in the area
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On Saturday 07 January 2006 12:58 pm, you wrote:
> Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd - Janet Arnold
>
> I live near Harrisburg, Pennsylvania. Does anyone in that area have this
> book so I can borrow it. I can't afford to buy one. Please contact me if
> you'd be willing to loan this treasure for me to look at and use for my
> costumes.

I don't own a copy, but have you tried Interlibrary Loan?  It  may also be 
possible that a local college or university might have a copy.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical 
results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Laura de Pola
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--- Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com> wrote:

Hello,

I've been asked to help with this costume.
1544
http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/l/lotto/1531-/070pola.html

I will likely use the de Toledo pattern for a basis. I've made a  
couple gowns with it before so I am familiar with it.

I'm thinking it's a brown wool/ or silk with silk velvet ribbon  
appliqued on.  I understand the chemise.  But I don't really  
understand the wrap and head covering.  Does anyone have an idea of  
what/ how it's made? thanks!


Althea Turner
althea@alfalfapress.com

Althea,
This isn't really an area that I'm very familiar with, so I'm going on what I can see in the portrait.

As far as your base fabric goes, wool or silk sounds fine. But as far as the pattern on the fabric goes, I think that you're wrong about velvet ribbon. I agree that the pattern is most likely appliqued, but I don't think it's ribbon - I think that it's cord. Do you have, or can you look at a copy of 'Historical Costume in Detail - the 17th & 18th Centuries' by Avril hart and Susan North? ( Yes, I know the painting is dated 1544 - bear with me :-)  ) If you enlarge the portrait ( click on it and go to 100%, any larger and strangely it seems to lose definition ) and look at the edge of the Laura's right sleeve at the shoulder, you can see the profile of the cord above the fabric. I think that I can even make out a twist in the cord, too. Anyway, there are a pair of sleeves, made of green silk, featured in the book, which are decorated/patterned with cord which has been couched on. ( Description on p.28, picture on p.29.  There is an even larger picture over pp.10 & 11. ) When !
 I first looked at this portrait closely, this form of decoration and these sleeves leapt straight to my mind.

As far as the partlet-collar-shawl-thingy goes, my first thought was that it looked like chenille! e.g.

http://www.cocochenille.com/2brdichbe.html

http://www.home-decorating-co.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=THDC&Product_Code=arabo_toffee_649720&Product_Count=&Category_Code=

http://www.minkydelight.com/chwr-110.html

http://www.fabric.com/home-decor-fabric-upholstery-fabric-chenille-upholstery-fabric-chenille-fabric-br-diamonds-taupe.aspx

Most of these designs are probably too big, but you get the idea.

On closer inspection, I have no idea, really, but I think you could probably make a good approximation of the design with this technique:

http://www.quiltbus.com/chenilling.htm

Or use something like Rya stitch.

The headgear is odd, but it certainly looks as if it is the same fabric as the partlet-thingy. Perhaps it is a close-fitting cap or coif, rather than a wrap or headband? Sitting over braids wrapped around the head, which give it that bulgy/padded look? If you made the cap of your base fabric and then added the 'rosettes' to it after you had the shape right...... no, I went back and looked at the picture again, whatever the fabric is, it was woven that way - you can see the partial rosettes on the edge of the partlet and on the front of the headgear, just above Laura's right ear. Well, that's how the original is, but you'll probably have to reproduce the fabric by some kind of embroidery, so my first suggestion is still valid, I guess.   

Whatever you decide, good luck with your project. Post some pictures when it's done, please?

My 2 cents worth.

Joannah


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Penny:

Thanks for that long and detailed explanation. It makes perfect sense that,
if your user's primary goal is to get an idea of what the clothes and trims
looked like, you would fix up the old engravings rather than redraw them.
It's just a different emphasis. I know only a little bit about computer
retouching, but I think I know enough to understand how much work is
involved. Wow, you all work VERY hard. And you certainly have my sympathies
for explaining to ebay sellers that entire old books/collections are
important to someone, not just the pictures. Many people don't understand
that, and so many great old books/magazines/etc. are destroyed because of
it. I think what you do is a wonderful, and I hope you and your workers are
proud of your accomplishment!

Gail

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Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2006 19:56:33 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly OT on Movie Costume picture source
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At 14:38 07/01/2006, you wrote:
>I found this fashion plate that looks very similar to the one in the 
>movie. It may be a starting point for you. 1870 time period.
>http://www.costumegallery.com/LadysFriend/Dresses/Color/cos3.htm
>>
>>Suzi - why not check your local library? That was a popular enough movie, I
>>would think they may have it - and it costs nothing! (or perhaps a very
>>small fee, depending on your library)


I have bought the movie, so will have the "real thing" to use.

Becky

Thanks for the fashion plate - it's lovely. However, I have 
discovered who made some of the dresses for that film, and they are 
colleagues of mine, or rather, I was at college with them. This means 
that once I have a decent shot of the dress, I will know which 
pattern they used, in all probability, so will be fine.

Suzi 


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I got a dressmaker's dummy for Christmas (WooHoo!) It's a Uniquely You
off of eBay.  :-)  And she's just my size.

:-)

I'm wondering about how compressible that they are.  Will she squish
down indefinately with a corset?  Say, should I have one that fits, and
then lace her into it to *that* place because on her it will tighten far
more than it does on me?  I even wondered about making a couple of
different shells -- say one for the appropriate level of
"squished-ness" for an Italian -- because I generally don't wear a
corset with those.

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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That might be a good way to "share" what you find out. I love those dresses 
especially that gold one. Good luck on your search.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2006 2:56 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly OT on Movie Costume picture source


> At 14:38 07/01/2006, you wrote:
>>I found this fashion plate that looks very similar to the one in the 
>>movie. It may be a starting point for you. 1870 time period.
>>http://www.costumegallery.com/LadysFriend/Dresses/Color/cos3.htm
>>>
>>>Suzi - why not check your local library? That was a popular enough movie, 
>>>I
>>>would think they may have it - and it costs nothing! (or perhaps a very
>>>small fee, depending on your library)
>
>
> I have bought the movie, so will have the "real thing" to use.
>
> Becky
>
> Thanks for the fashion plate - it's lovely. However, I have discovered who 
> made some of the dresses for that film, and they are colleagues of mine, 
> or rather, I was at college with them. This means that once I have a 
> decent shot of the dress, I will know which pattern they used, in all 
> probability, so will be fine.
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
_______________________________________________
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Use of Fabrics?
Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2006 17:11:09 -0500
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On Thursday 05 January 2006 4:38 pm, A & J Garden wrote:
> I've often looked at the fabrics at
> http://stores.ebay.com/Renaissance-Fabrics and wondered if anyone here
> had used them for Renaissance (general term) or Elizabethan garb? If so,
> what are your thoughts? I realise they are not natural fibres, but what
> did you think of the patterns? Do you have photos of finished gowns or
> doublets you might share with me? I've got some garments to make and am
> thinking about some of these fabrics.

I've used two of their brocades for 16th c costumes, and I like the way they 
handle (haven't tried to clean them yet, though).  

You can see a gown I made from one of their brocasdes here:

http://slumberland.org/moodle/file.php?file=/5/moddata/forum/36/5855/ren1.jpg


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical 
results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Use of Fabrics?
Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2006 17:13:46 -0500
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On Saturday 07 January 2006 5:11 pm, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
[snip]
> I've used two of their brocades for 16th c costumes, and I like the way
> they handle (haven't tried to clean them yet, though).
>
> You can see a gown I made from one of their brocades here:
>
> http://slumberland.org/moodle/file.php?file=/5/moddata/forum/36/5855/ren1.j
>pg

One more thing; you'll need to "log in" to see the picture, but you can do 
that by hitting the button marked "log in as a guest" and won't need to give 
any information to do so.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical 
results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
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Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2006 16:12:46 -0600
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Dress Dummy ... Re: [h-cost] (no subject)
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sorry about the lack of subject.  Hopefully it's fixed now.

Quoting "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>:

> I got a dressmaker's dummy for Christmas (WooHoo!) It's a Uniquely You
> off of eBay.  :-)  And she's just my size.
>
> :-)
>
> I'm wondering about how compressible that they are.  Will she squish
> down indefinately with a corset?  Say, should I have one that fits, and
> then lace her into it to *that* place because on her it will tighten far
> more than it does on me?  I even wondered about making a couple of
> different shells -- say one for the appropriate level of
> "squished-ness" for an Italian -- because I generally don't wear a
> corset with those.
>
> Susan
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> University of Tennessee
> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hello-new member
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At 11:01 AM 1/3/2006, you wrote:
>If you are going to follow the advice (which I agree with) to use 
>layers of trim generously, you'll need this site: 
>http://www.cheeptrims.com/default.asp
>
>Janet Davis

Catching up here.

They only sell wholesale, so unless you have a resale number you 
won't be able to use them (recent personal experience).  Fortunately, 
I have a friend with a resale number and I just pay him the wholesale 
plus state sales tax and everything is fine.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need to find a look in the area
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The Harrisburg near Elizabethtown?
If so, there should be a college library in Lancaster that
has it - Franklin & Marshall College in the  Shadek-Fackenthal Library.
According to my map, that's only about 30 miles away.

Sheryl N-D


At 12:58 PM 1/7/06 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd - Janet Arnold
>
>I live near Harrisburg, Pennsylvania. Does anyone in that area have this 
>book so I can borrow it. I can't afford to buy one. Please contact me if 
>you'd be willing to loan this treasure for me to look at and use for my 
>costumes.
>Sincerely,
>Becky Rautine
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> Catching up here.
>
> They only sell wholesale, so unless you have a resale number you won't be 
> able to use them (recent personal experience).  Fortunately, I have a 
> friend with a resale number and I just pay him the wholesale plus state 
> sales tax and everything is fine.
>
>
> Joan Jurancich
> joanmj@surewest.net

I've ordered from them fairly recently (Aug) and didn't need a resale 
number.  I have one, but they didn't ask for it.

Melusine 

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Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2006 23:54:01 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims
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At 11:19 PM 1/7/2006, you wrote:
>>Catching up here.
>>
>>They only sell wholesale, so unless you have a resale number you 
>>won't be able to use them (recent personal 
>>experience).  Fortunately, I have a friend with a resale number and 
>>I just pay him the wholesale plus state sales tax and everything is fine.
>>
>>
>>Joan Jurancich
>>joanmj@surewest.net
>
>I've ordered from them fairly recently (Aug) and didn't need a 
>resale number.  I have one, but they didn't ask for it.
>
>Melusine

My experience in June was that they simply never filled my order, 
even though they sent me a confirmatory email.  Then, nothing.  I had 
to call them to find out what had happened.  And they still did not 
fill my order.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Holiday Gift
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X-Miltered: at demeter with ID 43C0DBBC.000 by Joe's j-chkmail (http://j-chkmail.ensmp.fr)!

Hi!
  Apologies for leaving this a little late, but I have been trying to get back to normal after the holiday period (cleaning, sorting out, etc), but I received by holiday gift last week.  I got a beautiful Elizabethan style necklace, which my daughter has also taken a fancy too!  Also, a large bag of sew-on pearls, which I haven't decided what to do with yet. Very many thanks to Wendi for these!
  Best Wishes 
  Jayne
   

		
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Photos – Showcase holiday pictures in hardcover
 Photo Books. You design it and we’ll bind it!
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: costume gallery
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X-Miltered: at demeter with ID 43C0EF74.004 by Joe's j-chkmail (http://j-chkmail.ensmp.fr)!

Thank you Gail. It is truly a labor of love for all of us at the Gallery. 
We learn so much as we work.  I am working on an 1861 article about color 
usage deals with fashions in paintings.  Some eye-opening stuff for the time 
period.  I have a page and a half to type yet.

I am surprised how good the eBay dealers are with working with me.  Once 
they see the purpose of the Library, they are very willing to come down on 
prices and pull their auctions.  These dealers in the U.S., England, and 
France watching out for specific topics for me.  Most of these dealers 
purchase from estate sales.

We do have some people who loan their collections to be put in the Library. 
A member from h-costume has been very gracious to loan some of her 
collection.  In exchange, she receives a free lifetime Library subscription.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] robe a la francaise
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X-Miltered: at demeter with ID 43C0EFB2.001 by Joe's j-chkmail (http://j-chkmail.ensmp.fr)!

Hi,
I have to edit my webpage and take down some pictures, so in case some of
you woul like to se the progress in how i made this robe a la francaise with
lots of embroidery, now it is time.
In about 14 days i shall remove most of the pictures.
Page is here:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillestumpwork.htm
The dress is finished and are packed and send away tomorrow.

Bjarne






Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: costume gallery
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Alex,

The link I gave, http://www.costumegallery.com/1838/plates/cleaning.html , 
shows the process of how we clean the images.  We have a link on the front 
page of Library.

What time frame are you in?  We are adding some costume history books to the 
Library this year.  I already have some of the history book Corsets and 
Crinoline online.  This is not to be confused with the modern day book of 
the same name.  This book was written in the 1860s.  The Encyclopedia also 
touches on other time period.

Our biggest problem getting into 18th Century and older is the price of the 
publication are VERY high.  One day maybe we will make enough money to be 
able to purchase the older items.  But for now, I have to depend on the 
history books, and the 19th & early 20th Century publications.

Hopefully this year, we will go into earlier years of the publications  to 
put into the Library.  U.S. copyright will not allow us to use publications 
earlier than 1923.  We are going to be stuck with that date for a long time. 
But France's copyright are for 70 years.  I have been collecting French 
fashion magazines from 1924-1936 to put online.  I am wanting to learn 
French so I can translate them. My husband says that there is a program for 
learning French.  I need to know how to speak, read, and  their grammar. I 
will give that program a try.  If I don't get what I want from that, I will 
take a class at the community college. BTW,  I do have a beautiful 1950s 
Russian pattern catalog.  Their copyrights expire very quickly.  So that 
will go online this year.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <C232A65DA6CE09479943F9365D01DA955690C3@mcmail01.wwc.mccc.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT painting leotards/velour-cat fur
Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2006 08:28:14 -0500
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Re the long fur and washability, any of the types that I have used (in the
affordable price range) will matt if they come in contact with heat from
either the water or dryer tempts. In my business of more than 20 years, I
have had more animal costumes ruined by well meaning customers who washed
the costume to save me the trouble!

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 1:27 PM
Subject: [h-cost] OT painting leotards/velour-cat fur


> I'm doing a production of "CATS" and need some advice.
>
> - Best paint for painting leotards? (nylon/spandex? cotton/spandex?)
> I've dyed them solid colors, but only had moderate success with fabric
> paint in a tube. I need larger splashes of color than those little
> tubes.  My inclination is to use Roscoe supersaturated paints (watered
> down) 'cause I know they won't wash out...and these will probably need
> to be washed at some point.  Any better ideas?
>
> -Ideas for attaching bits of fur to leotards?
>
> -Best source for cat fur (need long for stage purposes)?
>
> -I have to build some of the unitards (can't buy for some of the bigger
> actor/dancers) and plan to use stretch velour for some of them.  Ideas
> for painting to retain the velour feel?
>
> Any help would be appreciated!
>
> Kate
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims--was, Hello-new member
Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2006 08:49:32 -0500
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X-Miltered: at demeter with ID 43C11833.000 by Joe's j-chkmail (http://j-chkmail.ensmp.fr)!

I have a resale number and have never been asked for it. The bigger problem
is that the minimum order rate is high. (presently, about $75)  It is not
hard to meet this since I have a business and keep a likely stock for
customers in shop..But occasionally I need only one thing and find it
annoying to have to fill up the order with "possibles".

Kathleen

From: "Carmen Beaudry" <moreplentyn@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 2:19 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims--was, Hello-new member


> > Catching up here.
> >
> > They only sell wholesale, so unless you have a resale number you won't
be
> > able to use them (recent personal experience).  Fortunately, I have a
> > friend with a resale number and I just pay him the wholesale plus state
> > sales tax and everything is fine.
> >
> >
> > Joan Jurancich
> > joanmj@surewest.net
>
> I've ordered from them fairly recently (Aug) and didn't need a resale
> number.  I have one, but they didn't ask for it.
>
> Melusine
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims
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Very curious! I have been ordering from them for years and have never had
the problem you speak of.

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joan Jurancich" <joanmj@surewest.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 2:54 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims


> At 11:19 PM 1/7/2006, you wrote:
> >>Catching up here.
> >>
> >>They only sell wholesale, so unless you have a resale number you
> >>won't be able to use them (recent personal
> >>experience).  Fortunately, I have a friend with a resale number and
> >>I just pay him the wholesale plus state sales tax and everything is
fine.
> >>
> >>
> >>Joan Jurancich
> >>joanmj@surewest.net
> >
> >I've ordered from them fairly recently (Aug) and didn't need a
> >resale number.  I have one, but they didn't ask for it.
> >
> >Melusine
>
> My experience in June was that they simply never filled my order,
> even though they sent me a confirmatory email.  Then, nothing.  I had
> to call them to find out what had happened.  And they still did not
> fill my order.
>
>
> Joan Jurancich
> joanmj@surewest.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need to find a look in the area
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Than you!!! I will definitely check it out. I will try my local library and 
see if they can sen for it. Sometmes they do when it's from another library 
that isn't in their system.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sheryl Nance-Durst" <sherylnd@kc.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 12:39 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need to find a look in the area


> The Harrisburg near Elizabethtown?
> If so, there should be a college library in Lancaster that
> has it - Franklin & Marshall College in the  Shadek-Fackenthal Library.
> According to my map, that's only about 30 miles away.
>
> Sheryl N-D
>
>
> At 12:58 PM 1/7/06 -0500, you wrote:
>>
>>Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd - Janet Arnold
>>
>>I live near Harrisburg, Pennsylvania. Does anyone in that area have this 
>>book so I can borrow it. I can't afford to buy one. Please contact me if 
>>you'd be willing to loan this treasure for me to look at and use for my 
>>costumes.
>>Sincerely,
>>Becky Rautine
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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	<002601c61375$0b0e0f50$6400a8c0@Penny>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: costume gallery
Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2006 09:09:07 -0500
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Penny, another curious question re these pictures.. I cannot remember if
there has been any mention of just how these pics were colored originally.
I have come across volumes of the same date and publisher in which the
colors of the costumes for any given costume plate are entirely different.
And not just in tone or quality of brush work.
So to follow through with this entry, How Come?
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2006 5:28 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: costume gallery


> Hi Gail,
>
> I do the same thing.  If a site goes to Acrobat, I shut it down.  I gave
the
> software many chances... still don't like it.
>
> A very good question... I don't mind answering about my usage of the word
> restoration.
>
> Three definitions of restoration from my old gigantic Webster's
Dictionary.
> LOL!  Dusting the book off.  Only for you Gail will I dust today!
>
> 1. A restoring or being restored.
> 2. A putting or bringing back into a former, normal, or unimpaired state
or
> condition.
> 3. A representation of the original form or structure.  Reconstruction.
> Syn. replacement, re-established, renovation, reinstatement, revival,
> recovery.  A modern word in the recording industry is digitally
remastered.
> YUCK!  My son gave me a CD for Christmas that wasn't digitally remastered.
> Sounded like 1960s AM radio. Only gift I have ever returned!
>
> The problems with the originals images is that they are in such poor
> condition..  Water stains, age stains, chipped pages, torn pages, color
> faded 75% of the time, people writing on the pages, etc.  If you could see
> the condition of some of these images in their raw form, you would say a
> prayer over them and never touch them.  Now some of our collections are in
> excellent conditions: 19th Century French Peasants book, Bon Ton
collection,
> my recent purchases of the French play costume renderings collection, and
> the 1814 British occupations books. The 1814 book was made exclusively for
a
> wealthy person in England, and had been in a family collection for years.
> But I purchased all these at top dollar for my budget. Those purchases are
> rare for me but I believe their contents will greatly help our website
> visitors.  I actually purchased them more for the subject matter than the
> condition of the images.  Those images need very little work and are more
> from an organizational project that cleaning the graphics.  Go on eBay and
> see how much the Bon Ton images starting bids are.
>
> I will pay high end for certain topics.  The money spent on one high-end
> collection, I could have purchased several other collections in
not-so-good
> condition.  Now high end for me, is definitely not what high-end for the
art
> world.  Sometimes, I will see these items on eBay and they have no bids
> because the starting price is too high.  I then privately write the
dealers
> or private owner and ask if they can pull the auction and sell to me
> privately.  I explain to the dealer my purpose for needing the collection
or
> book and let them see my online Library.  I feel that I am saving a
> collection that is being split up and sold individually.  I can present
the
> collection as a whole. This was the case of the 1814 British collection.
> The dealer took book apart and was selling them individually.  After
> explaining to him and  that I want to save the collection, he came way
down
> off his eBay price and sold me the entire collection.  Not only did he
sent
> me the plates, but he included the book's description pages of the
> occupations.  Those pages would have probably ended up in the garbage.
What
> a wonderful soul he is for wanting to sell it as a collection to me.  It
> took a lot of emails to convince him that the entire collection needed
> saving.  As for the French plays renderings... I saw two of these plates
on
> eBay.  I wrote the dealer and asked if she had more like it.  She had a
> collection of a couple of hundred of renderings that this artist did for
the
> plays and some for fashion designers.  She wanted in the thousands for it.
> No way!  I'm not rich.  She gave me an option to purchase the theatrical
or
> fashion designer collections at a lower price.  I love the designers, but
> couldn't pass up the theater.  So the fashion designer collection was
broken
> up and sold individually.  Made me feel like I had Sophie's Choice.  Which
> child do I love more?
>
> When our images in sad condition are repainted, our first step is to make
a
> palette of the colors on the images.  Sometimes we do not need to repaint
> the entire image.  But a majority of the pre-1870 images need to be
> partially or completely repainted.  The worse years for bad paint jobs in
> the books were the 1830-1860s.  I have one sad-looking lady (my images are
> called ladies, men, or children) that I have been working on back and
forth
> for a year.  The original painting is so messed up.  Kimiko worked on the
> majority of 1838 images for me.  She can testify as to how bad those
images
> really looked.  I scanned the illustration pages and photocopied the text
> pages of that book then put it back on the shelf.  It will probably never
be
> open again as long as I own it.  When Kim worked on each image, she had a
> full description of each costume.  The original scans are at a high
> resolution to try to pick up the original colors as much as possible.
> Believe me when you are repainting these images, you get to a point you
want
> to pull your hair out.  The originals are in such bad condition.  You just
> have to get away from it for a few days.  When an image is complete, we
are
> on top of the world.  It is such a wonderful feeling to completed an
image,
> as the description's author had  intended for it to look like.  YIPPEE!
> After 160 something years later, the author's vision has been fulfilled!
>
> Other problems occur with these illustrations in the book.   The ink in
the
> type in the books have bleed through on the images.    The type letter
were
> struck so hard that the ink or impression would go through to the image.
> When you scan these problem images, the ink or impression shows up in the
> scan. These problems even hurt the b&w images.  So we have to clean that
up
> too.  This happened so much in these 1838 images.  Being a teacher I
learned
> to read students work upside down or backwards.  On a few of these images,
I
> could read the entire corresponding text page *backwards* on the color
> fashion plates.  Want to hear our graphics people grip... work on one of
> those images!  You have to take lots of breaks!
>
> When I decided to start this repainting or restoration project of fashion
> plates, was when I went to the London Gallery and saw a very popular
> painting.  I have forgotten the name of it, but it is the medieval
pregnant
> woman and the man in the beaver hat. I was so-o-o disappointed to see the
> original, that I almost cried.  The oil paint was so cracked and was badly
> in need of restoration.  I thought please just put it in a safe place out
of
> the light to preserve it.
>
> If our images were being presented as a piece of artwork or for reselling
> the actual fashion plates, I could see showing the original scans.  But
our
> goal is education of past fashions. I believe people would like to see the
> details of the costumes and previously didn't even notice them because a
> painter of the time did a poor job.  Our graphic artist who have worked on
> these images can tell you how frustrating it is to have a dress described
in
> the text as having blue skirt with violet trim and the trim was painted
> yellow.  Or if that dress had a violet sash and it was painted over green
> because the painter was in a hurry to be paid by piecework.  I truly don't
> believe that the intentions the fashion author was to have these goofs or
> they would have printed the descriptions as they did.  The problem why
these
> goofs were allowed was because these magazines were very popular and I
think
> they needed to speed up production time.  The ladies who painted the
plates
> needed the money and were paid by piece.  To get more pieces done *some*
did
> sloppy work. Prior to this period the fashion plates painting was so much
> better.  But not as many people had access to these publications, so the
> demand was low.  The painter could take their time.
>
> Generally when the painter took their time, their is a big difference in
the
> quality of the images.  This is so true in the original renderings of the
> French plays.  My lot contains the original costume designer's renderings
> for these plays.  They are SO beautiful it is unreal!  Going on memory,
but
> I think there are about 20 plays represented in the collection.  Each
sheet
> has app. five costume renderings.  FYI, the bulk of the work behind this
> project will be the research.  I am not that familiar with French plays of
> that period.  I do recognize some of the actresses' names, but I want the
> homework done before they go on the web. I will spend little time working
on
> the images on the computer because of their excellent condition.
>
> The amount of research that goes behind these projects can go on for
years.
> I can't even try to guess the amount of  research projects that are
> on-going.  Even when they are on the web, the research continues.  Costume
> research is like genealogy, you turn over one stone and then the next one
> needs turning over.  And then, Oh my goodness, you find a skeleton under
all
> those stones.  That leads you to a whole new train of thought.
>
> My newest venture is a computer drawing tablet (WACOM to the computer
> Geeks).  I have wanted one since I first saw it at a publishing house in
> 1996.  My husband got me one for Christmas!!!  I won't touch tablet until
I
> have read the manual.  It looks so promising for speeding up the time we
use
> on images.  That leads me to technology....
>
> Once you move into the 20th Century, the printing technology became so
much
> better.  The 20th Century images take far less of our time to work on
> compared to the 19th Century.  The 20th Century image colors aren't as
> faded, the description generally matches the fashion in the plate. The
> machine print image details are more defined than the 19th Century
> hand-painted.
>
> LOL!  Back to the CD being digitally remastered from the beginning of the
> message.  Compare what we do to what the music industry is doing to old
> recordings.  I don't want to call what we do to the images as digitally
> remastering.... don't think I have mastered but a couple of thinks in my
> life but giving birth to only male children, and collecting dust.   Those
> things I have mastered!
>
> Penny E. Ladnier
> Owner,
> The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
> Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
> Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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I have to design a "Mother Ginger" costume for this Christmas play of the 
Nutcracker. I have many ideas from various sites. I see how to make the 
hoops atand out at different angles. I've thought about this since the first 
of December!!!! I work on it in my sleep. I've looked everywhere for a 
pattern to use but so far nothing is as large as I need. BUT some of the 
pictures I've found have been very helpful.
Yours has helped me to see how to put it together. Any suggestions on how to 
make the underpinning hoops or farthingale that is 2-3 yards across? It has 
to be large for that character.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 5:55 AM
Subject: [h-cost] robe a la francaise


> Hi,
> I have to edit my webpage and take down some pictures, so in case some of
> you woul like to se the progress in how i made this robe a la francaise 
> with
> lots of embroidery, now it is time.
> In about 14 days i shall remove most of the pictures.
> Page is here:
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillestumpwork.htm
> The dress is finished and are packed and send away tomorrow.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise
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At 14:08 08/01/2006, you wrote:
>I have to design a "Mother Ginger" costume for this Christmas play 
>of the Nutcracker. I have many ideas from various sites. I see how 
>to make the hoops atand out at different angles. I've thought about 
>this since the first of December!!!! I work on it in my sleep. I've 
>looked everywhere for a pattern to use but so far nothing is as 
>large as I need. BUT some of the pictures I've found have been very helpful.
>Yours has helped me to see how to put it together. Any suggestions 
>on how to make the underpinning hoops or farthingale that is 2-3 
>yards across? It has to be large for that character.
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" 
><drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 5:55 AM
>Subject: [h-cost] robe a la francaise


If you get a copy of "Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1500-1800" 
by Jean Hunnisett there is a pannier pattern in there that you can 
simply widen by folding the pattern and cutting extra onto the 
folded, centre front and centre back edges. You will have to enlarge 
the pattern as it is on a grid, but I am told that you can do this at 
"copy shops" and on a computer. I have never done this as I enlarge 
direct onto pattern paper, but there are various methods that will work.

Suzi


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Thanks. I'll look for that one at the library too.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 9:17 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise


> At 14:08 08/01/2006, you wrote:
>>I have to design a "Mother Ginger" costume for this Christmas play of the 
>>Nutcracker. I have many ideas from various sites. I see how to make the 
>>hoops atand out at different angles. I've thought about this since the 
>>first of December!!!! I work on it in my sleep. I've looked everywhere for 
>>a pattern to use but so far nothing is as large as I need. BUT some of the 
>>pictures I've found have been very helpful.
>>Yours has helped me to see how to put it together. Any suggestions on how 
>>to make the underpinning hoops or farthingale that is 2-3 yards across? It 
>>has to be large for that character.
>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" 
>><drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>>Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 5:55 AM
>>Subject: [h-cost] robe a la francaise
>
>
> If you get a copy of "Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1500-1800" by 
> Jean Hunnisett there is a pannier pattern in there that you can simply 
> widen by folding the pattern and cutting extra onto the folded, centre 
> front and centre back edges. You will have to enlarge the pattern as it is 
> on a grid, but I am told that you can do this at "copy shops" and on a 
> computer. I have never done this as I enlarge direct onto pattern paper, 
> but there are various methods that will work.
>
> Suzi
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
_______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jan  8 12:13:59 2006
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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mainly for UK members - new web site for Costumers
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Thank-you for the info, Suzi. 

I am certainly having problems with it. It could well be a bug on my end, but whenever I go to 'enlarge view', the website freezes, and the only way to close the site is to 'control,alt,delete'.

Yup, just went back and checked, as long as I don't try to 'enlarge view' it's fine, as soon as I click on 'enlarge view' - freeze!

Frustrating.

Otherwise, I found materials on there that I wasn't aware existed, so that's good.

Joannah
( who now has to go 'ctrl,alt,delete'..... ) 

>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
>
> Thought everyone, but mainly from the U.K. I expect, would like to >know that MacCulloch and Wallis has gone live with its online >catalogue and ordering service. I thought it was a very good site. If >anyone has problems with it, please let me know and I will pass on the >information.
>
> www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk
>
> Suzi (A regular customer for mumble-mumble years.)
>


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At 17:13 08/01/2006, you wrote:
>Thank-you for the info, Suzi.
>
>I am certainly having problems with it. It could well be a bug on my 
>end, but whenever I go to 'enlarge view', the website freezes, and 
>the only way to close the site is to 'control,alt,delete'.
>
>Yup, just went back and checked, as long as I don't try to 'enlarge 
>view' it's fine, as soon as I click on 'enlarge view' - freeze!
>
>Frustrating.
>
>Otherwise, I found materials on there that I wasn't aware existed, 
>so that's good.
>
>Joannah
>( who now has to go 'ctrl,alt,delete'..... )


Thanks.
It isn't happening to me, but I will pass on your message to Victoria.

suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mainly for UK members - new web site for Costumers
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At 09:46 AM 1/8/2006, you wrote:
>At 17:13 08/01/2006, you wrote:
>>Thank-you for the info, Suzi.
>>
>>I am certainly having problems with it. It could well be a bug on 
>>my end, but whenever I go to 'enlarge view', the website freezes, 
>>and the only way to close the site is to 'control,alt,delete'.
>>
>>Yup, just went back and checked, as long as I don't try to 'enlarge 
>>view' it's fine, as soon as I click on 'enlarge view' - freeze!
>>
>>Frustrating.
>>
>>Otherwise, I found materials on there that I wasn't aware existed, 
>>so that's good.
>>
>>Joannah
>>( who now has to go 'ctrl,alt,delete'..... )
>
>
>Thanks.
>It isn't happening to me, but I will pass on your message to Victoria.
>
>suzi

I didn't have any problems with the enlarged views.  I am running 
Windows XP and have a cable internet connection.

I did notice that the fabric widths are not always given (the trims I 
looked at had the widths).

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Date: Sun, 08 Jan 2006 10:08:21 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims
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Maybe it's because I live in California, the state where the business 
is located.  All I know is that I was told on the phone that they 
only sell wholesale and would not fill my order.  It's annoying since 
they are the only source of (inexpensive) cotton twill tape I have 
found.  Fortunately, a 100-yard roll of 1/2-inch twill tape (or 
250-yard in narrower sizes)  last a long time.

And they must have increased their minimum order amount again.  It 
was $60 when I ordered in June 2005.

Joan

At 05:51 AM 1/8/2006, you wrote:
>Very curious! I have been ordering from them for years and have never had
>the problem you speak of.
>
>Kathleen
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Joan Jurancich" <joanmj@surewest.net>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 2:54 AM
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims
>
>
> > At 11:19 PM 1/7/2006, you wrote:
> > >>Catching up here.
> > >>
> > >>They only sell wholesale, so unless you have a resale number you
> > >>won't be able to use them (recent personal
> > >>experience).  Fortunately, I have a friend with a resale number and
> > >>I just pay him the wholesale plus state sales tax and everything is
>fine.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>Joan Jurancich
> > >>joanmj@surewest.net
> > >
> > >I've ordered from them fairly recently (Aug) and didn't need a
> > >resale number.  I have one, but they didn't ask for it.
> > >
> > >Melusine
> >
> > My experience in June was that they simply never filled my order,
> > even though they sent me a confirmatory email.  Then, nothing.  I had
> > to call them to find out what had happened.  And they still did not
> > fill my order.
> >
> >
> > Joan Jurancich
> > joanmj@surewest.net

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Subject: [h-cost] re: Japan Vacation question (was: re: Japan Vakation
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>>re: Japan Vakation question
>I have posted answers to all of these questions.  Please check the
>h-cost archives for Bunka Gakuin, Omotesando, Okadaya, Hanazono, Oeno
>Park and the Kyoto Museum of Costume.

Deredere,
Sorry you didnt find the words in the archives.  Try Kyoto, Tokyo,
Japan, kimono, they all come up with Japan related messages from me &
others. You can also try the email address I used when I lived/worked
in Tokyo. I posted as cynthia_barnes@phoenix.com.

The words I gave you previously might be useful in searching the web.
Bunka Gakuin - a womens college and fashion museum, look thru their
older catalogs, I bought everyone ever published when I lived there.
Omotesando - where the cosplay kids hang out, also Tokyo's answer to
the Champs Elysee
Okadaya in minami-Shinjuku, Tokyo - the best sewing store on the
planet (beats G-Street & Britex hands down)
Hanazono - temple with flea market sometimes
Oeno Park - Tokyo National Museum, cherry blossoms, just plain lovely park.
the Kyoto Museum of Costume - wonderful, often closed for rearranging
the displays.
Meiji-jinja - an imperial museum, sometimes it court clothing,
sometimes armor, sometimes just dec arts owned by or given to
emperors.
and if your trip gets postponed, which I hope not, check out the Gion
Matsuri (festival of the ages) in Kyoto, maybe July, maybe August. 
I've heard that there's a historical parade of fashions from the 9th
to the 19th c.  I thought I had the catalog from 2001 and cant seem to
find it.

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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On 1/8/06, Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>re: Japan Vakation question
Minor corrections:
Omotesando - Tokyo's answer to the Champs Elysees
Harajuku - where the cosplay kids hang out near Yoyogi Park, also a
stop on the Yamanote train line
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims
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On Sun, 8 Jan 2006, Joan Jurancich wrote:

> Maybe it's because I live in California, the state where the business 
> is located.

That is very likely the case.  At least one of the wholesale dealers I
order from (out of state to me) notes that if you live in their home
state, you need to provide a resale license, but otherwise they don't seem
to care. A few of my dealers require it of everyone. It's possible that
the laws on this vary by state, too.

--Robin

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From: Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Laura de Pola
Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2006 11:50:57 -0800
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My grateful thanks to all who commented on this painting and  
garments.  I think I have a handle on what is going on, at least  
enough to make a fair run at it.  I will stop by the library to day  
to pick up Fashion Detail.  I was also looking at Patterns of Fashion  
and found some similar couched cording in some of the photographs. I  
look forward to working on this. :D

As for the design on dress,  I agree with Joanna and it was likely a  
cord or braid.  I gave the client the option of velvet or braid,  
depending on her comfort level.

Again my thanks!
Althea


On Jan 7, 2006, at 11:30 AM, Joannah Hansen wrote:

> --- Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com> wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> I've been asked to help with this costume.
> 1544
> http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/l/lotto/1531-/070pola.html
>
> I will likely use the de Toledo pattern for a basis. I've made a
> couple gowns with it before so I am familiar with it.
>
> I'm thinking it's a brown wool/ or silk with silk velvet ribbon
> appliqued on.  I understand the chemise.  But I don't really
> understand the wrap and head covering.  Does anyone have an idea of
> what/ how it's made? thanks!
>
>
> Althea Turner
> althea@alfalfapress.com
>
> Althea,
> This isn't really an area that I'm very familiar with, so I'm going  
> on what I can see in the portrait.
>
> As far as your base fabric goes, wool or silk sounds fine. But as  
> far as the pattern on the fabric goes, I think that you're wrong  
> about velvet ribbon. I agree that the pattern is most likely  
> appliqued, but I don't think it's ribbon - I think that it's cord.  
> Do you have, or can you look at a copy of 'Historical Costume in  
> Detail - the 17th & 18th Centuries' by Avril hart and Susan North?  
> ( Yes, I know the painting is dated 1544 - bear with me :-)  ) If  
> you enlarge the portrait ( click on it and go to 100%, any larger  
> and strangely it seems to lose definition ) and look at the edge of  
> the Laura's right sleeve at the shoulder, you can see the profile  
> of the cord above the fabric. I think that I can even make out a  
> twist in the cord, too. Anyway, there are a pair of sleeves, made  
> of green silk, featured in the book, which are decorated/patterned  
> with cord which has been couched on. ( Description on p.28, picture  
> on p.29.  There is an even larger picture over pp.10 & 11. ) When !
>  I first looked at this portrait closely, this form of decoration  
> and these sleeves leapt straight to my mind.
>
> As far as the partlet-collar-shawl-thingy goes, my first thought  
> was that it looked like chenille! e.g.
>
> http://www.cocochenille.com/2brdichbe.html
>
> http://www.home-decorating-co.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc? 
> Screen=PROD&Store_Code=THDC&Product_Code=arabo_toffee_649720&Product_C 
> ount=&Category_Code=
>
> http://www.minkydelight.com/chwr-110.html
>
> http://www.fabric.com/home-decor-fabric-upholstery-fabric-chenille- 
> upholstery-fabric-chenille-fabric-br-diamonds-taupe.aspx
>
> Most of these designs are probably too big, but you get the idea.
>
> On closer inspection, I have no idea, really, but I think you could  
> probably make a good approximation of the design with this technique:
>
> http://www.quiltbus.com/chenilling.htm
>
> Or use something like Rya stitch.
>
> The headgear is odd, but it certainly looks as if it is the same  
> fabric as the partlet-thingy. Perhaps it is a close-fitting cap or  
> coif, rather than a wrap or headband? Sitting over braids wrapped  
> around the head, which give it that bulgy/padded look? If you made  
> the cap of your base fabric and then added the 'rosettes' to it  
> after you had the shape right...... no, I went back and looked at  
> the picture again, whatever the fabric is, it was woven that way -  
> you can see the partial rosettes on the edge of the partlet and on  
> the front of the headgear, just above Laura's right ear. Well,  
> that's how the original is, but you'll probably have to reproduce  
> the fabric by some kind of embroidery, so my first suggestion is  
> still valid, I guess.
>
> Whatever you decide, good luck with your project. Post some  
> pictures when it's done, please?
>
> My 2 cents worth.
>
> Joannah
>
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> Sluggy.Net: The Sluggy Freelance Community!
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Althea Turner
althea@alfalfapress.com

"Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have  
company in their ignorance, they don't want people to look into  
anything; they want us to believe like peasants and not ask the  
reasons behind things."
William of Conches, 12th century


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise
Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2006 21:25:39 +0100
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Hi Becky,
Is it an oval pannier you are looking for?
Should it be straight at the top, or curved in the sides?
If you are going to make such a huge frame, i would suggest you to use 
another hoop wire. I have used Wissners krinoline wire in the heavy weights, 
but if your frame is going to be  straight in top, it will not hold. I would 
suggest you to use a thick cane in stead.
Jean Hunnisets panniers are good. If you want the french shape, the top hoop 
hangs two far down. I have altered the frame because i wanted it to be at 
elbow hight.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 3:08 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise


>I have to design a "Mother Ginger" costume for this Christmas play of the 
>Nutcracker. I have many ideas from various sites. I see how to make the 
>hoops atand out at different angles. I've thought about this since the 
>first of December!!!! I work on it in my sleep. I've looked everywhere for 
>a pattern to use but so far nothing is as large as I need. BUT some of the 
>pictures I've found have been very helpful.
> Yours has helped me to see how to put it together. Any suggestions on how 
> to make the underpinning hoops or farthingale that is 2-3 yards across? It 
> has to be large for that character.
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 5:55 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] robe a la francaise
>
>
>> Hi,
>> I have to edit my webpage and take down some pictures, so in case some of
>> you woul like to se the progress in how i made this robe a la francaise 
>> with
>> lots of embroidery, now it is time.
>> In about 14 days i shall remove most of the pictures.
>> Page is here:
>> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillestumpwork.htm
>> The dress is finished and are packed and send away tomorrow.
>>
>> Bjarne
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Leif og Bjarne Drews
>> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>>
>> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>>
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2006 21:55:16 +0100
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Subject: [h-cost] knit stockings
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I tryed to knit silk stockings. But the silk thread was two slippery, i lost
the stitches all the time.
Now i have tryed with cotton thread, and its a little easyer for me.
I made a sampler and it shows that i use 5 stitches to each cm. This meens
that i have to start with 200 stitches at the top.
Would this be two coarse for a gentlemans stockings?

Bjarne






Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims
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Robin Netherton wrote:


> At least one of the wholesale dealers I
> order from (out of state to me) notes that if you live in their home
> state, you need to provide a resale license, but otherwise they don't seem
> to care.

Businesses are required to collect taxes (or note exemptions) for 
in-state sales. If you mail-order from another state they aren't 
required to collect or report sales taxes for the other state. Or that's 
how it used to work, anyway, back when I had a business. So out-of-state 
sales require no extra paperwork. In-state retail sales means there's 
tax forms to fill out.

Speaking of trims... I recently found TrimFabric.com as an interesting 
supplier of discounted trim. The selection varies considerably, though.



Dawn


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From: Audrey Bergeron-Morin <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise
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> I have to edit my webpage and take down some pictures, so in case some of
> you woul like to se the progress in how i made this robe a la francaise with
> lots of embroidery, now it is time.

Thank you for warning us. I grabbed pictures for inspiration. And let
us know how the client likes it!

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] This year's calendar selection
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I've hit the 50% off sales on 2006 calendars at both Borders and a mall
calendar store. What a disappointing choice this year! I saw nothing
medieval aside from one "Angels" calendar and a Fra Angelico art calendar,
neither of which is very useful for costume. I settled for a "Camelot"
calendar full of Pre-Raphaelite images, including a few I hadn't seen
before, all of them with sumptuous Victorian-medieval costume. Eye candy
over my desk, and later I can use these in lectures about the popular
image of the medieval.

My other calendar (I keep two) is Tolkien -- his original art, not the
Hildebrandt or movie stuff. Almost went for Hiroshige.

I've had the same problem for a couple of years now.  I really miss the
Medieval Woman calendars. (I've been choosing dance photography, space
photos, and Edward Gorey.)

I hope people who are looking for suitable images from other periods had a
better time of it than I did.

--Robin

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I have used Ms Hunnisett's 18thC hoop pattern, it balances beautifully! All 
I did was scale it up! At the bottom edge mine is 2 yards across.
Kelly
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 10:33 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise


> Thanks. I'll look for that one at the library too.
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 9:17 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise
>
>
>> At 14:08 08/01/2006, you wrote:
>>>I have to design a "Mother Ginger" costume for this Christmas play of the 
>>>Nutcracker. I have many ideas from various sites. I see how to make the 
>>>hoops atand out at different angles. I've thought about this since the 
>>>first of December!!!! I work on it in my sleep. I've looked everywhere 
>>>for a pattern to use but so far nothing is as large as I need. BUT some 
>>>of the pictures I've found have been very helpful.
>>>Yours has helped me to see how to put it together. Any suggestions on how 
>>>to make the underpinning hoops or farthingale that is 2-3 yards across? 
>>>It has to be large for that character.
>>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" 
>>><drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>>>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>>>Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 5:55 AM
>>>Subject: [h-cost] robe a la francaise
>>
>>
>> If you get a copy of "Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1500-1800" by 
>> Jean Hunnisett there is a pannier pattern in there that you can simply 
>> widen by folding the pattern and cutting extra onto the folded, centre 
>> front and centre back edges. You will have to enlarge the pattern as it 
>> is on a grid, but I am told that you can do this at "copy shops" and on a 
>> computer. I have never done this as I enlarge direct onto pattern paper, 
>> but there are various methods that will work.
>>
>> Suzi
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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From: Michelle Plumb <mplumb@wideopenwest.com>
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Dear Bjarne,

I hope the lucky recipient of the dress sends pictures wearing it!

Michelle
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] knit stockings
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 10:31:28 +1100
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Have you taken into account the stretch of the stocking? 40cm seems like a 
very large diameter.

Glenda.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 7:55 AM
Subject: [h-cost] knit stockings


>I tryed to knit silk stockings. But the silk thread was two slippery, i 
>lost
> the stitches all the time.
> Now i have tryed with cotton thread, and its a little easyer for me.
> I made a sampler and it shows that i use 5 stitches to each cm. This meens
> that i have to start with 200 stitches at the top.
> Would this be two coarse for a gentlemans stockings?
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] This year's calendar selection
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Quoting Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>:

>
> I've hit the 50% off sales on 2006 calendars at both Borders and a mall
> calendar store. What a disappointing choice this year! I saw nothing
> medieval aside from one "Angels" calendar and a Fra Angelico art calendar,
> neither of which is very useful for costume. I settled for a "Camelot"
> calendar full of Pre-Raphaelite images, including a few I hadn't seen
> before, all of them with sumptuous Victorian-medieval costume. Eye candy
> over my desk, and later I can use these in lectures about the popular
> image of the medieval.

*giggle*  I got that one too.

>
> I've had the same problem for a couple of years now.  I really miss the
> Medieval Woman calendars. (I've been choosing dance photography, space
> photos, and Edward Gorey.)

Wonder if the publisher would respond to a letter writing campaign? 
Wonder if some other Calendar publisher might pick up on the idea?

>
> I hope people who are looking for suitable images from other periods had a
> better time of it than I did.
>

Not calendar-wise, but I am waiting on my copy of "Moda a Firenze" to
show up!

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: [h-cost] Another period program on tv
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Costume related viewing,

Anyone catch the "Madness of Henry VIII"?
The title seemed dubious, but I thought I would check it out anyway. (It
just started on the National Geographic channel for those interested)
So far it appears to be a standard documentary, with just a sensational
title.  In the short bit I have seen, costumes superficially seem okay.  And
the history is correct so far (although we are still on Catherine).
Its not my focus period and I haven't seen much yet.  I'll have to keep
watching to see how the program turns out.

Kaitlin
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Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2006 17:54:19 -0800 (PST)
From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] knit stockings
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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--- Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
wrote:

> I tryed to knit silk stockings. But the silk thread
> was two slippery, i lost
> the stitches all the time.
> Now i have tryed with cotton thread, and its a
> little easyer for me.
> I made a sampler and it shows that i use 5 stitches
> to each cm. This meens
> that i have to start with 200 stitches at the top.
> Would this be two coarse for a gentlemans stockings?
> 
> Bjarne

Ok, that translates to 12.5 sts/inch--I believe that
is in the range for good stockings in the eighteenth
century.

You may also wish to try, if you are not allergic, a
fine worsted-prep yarn for your stockings.  Use a
similar size thread of wool that you have been of
cotton.  
Wool is much, much, much nicer to knit than cotton or
silk.

And 40 cm is only about 16 inches (to respond to
another poster), so that is not ridiculous.  
If you knit [wool] stockings to the measurement of
your leg, they will be all baggy & not sleek and
smooth.  

I've heard between 75% and 90% of your leg
measurement, but 100% at the ankles for ease to don
the stocking.

Good luck.

Ann in CT


		
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Yahoo! DSL – Something to write home about. 
Just $16.99/mo. or less. 
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] This year's calendar selection
Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2006 18:25:03 -0500
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On Sunday 08 January 2006 6:05 pm, Robin Netherton wrote:
> I've hit the 50% off sales on 2006 calendars at both Borders and a mall
> calendar store. What a disappointing choice this year! 

You can say *that* again.  I was really frustrated when I did my calendar 
shopping.  Sally Queen & Associates's 2006 calendar features costume of the 
American "Wild West" period, a period in which I have almost no interest.  

> I saw nothing 
> medieval aside from one "Angels" calendar and a Fra Angelico art calendar,
> neither of which is very useful for costume. 

Saw those too, and agree.

> I settled for a "Camelot" 
> calendar full of Pre-Raphaelite images, including a few I hadn't seen
> before, all of them with sumptuous Victorian-medieval costume. Eye candy
> over my desk, and later I can use these in lectures about the popular
> image of the medieval.

I settled for the "Old Masters' Paintings" calendar,  which has some nice 
closeups of 16th c portraits with nice costume detail.  I know that's not 
your area of interest, Robin, but I ended up making an Italian Renaissance 
gown for a LARP this past summer, and have developed a slight interest in 
that area as a result.

>
> My other calendar (I keep two) is Tolkien -- his original art, not the
> Hildebrandt or movie stuff. 

Interesting.  Where did you get that one?  I don't remember seeing it.

> Almost went for Hiroshige. 
>
> I've had the same problem for a couple of years now.  I really miss the
> Medieval Woman calendars. (I've been choosing dance photography, space
> photos, and Edward Gorey.)

I miss the Medieval Woman calendar too.

> I hope people who are looking for suitable images from other periods had a
> better time of it than I did.

I suspect not.  I looked pretty hard for calendars with costume-related 
images, and the selection was truly dismal.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical 
results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
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Subject: [h-cost] "twice-turned dress"
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Martha Cratchet, in "A Christmas Carol", is said to be wearing a  
"twice-turned dress."  This term is new to me.  Does anyone know what  it means?  Thanks.
 
Nancy  

<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

Nancy  Spies
Arelate Studio
_www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html_ 
(http://www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html) 

Save  the earth; it's the only planet with chocolate.

"But if by 'Liberal' they  mean someone who looks ahead and not behind, 
someone who welcomes new ideas  without rigid reactions, someone who cares about 
the welfare of the people --  their health, their housing, their schools, their 
jobs, their civil rights, and  their civil liberties -- someone who believes 
we can break through the stalemate  and suspicions that grip us in our policies 
abroad, if that is what they mean by  'Liberal,' then I'm proud to say I'm a 
'Liberal'." John F. Kennedy, 14 Sept 1960 

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] This year's calendar selection
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On Sun, 8 Jan 2006, Susan B. Farmer wrote:

> > I've had the same problem for a couple of years now.  I really miss the
> > Medieval Woman calendars. (I've been choosing dance photography, space
> > photos, and Edward Gorey.)
> 
> Wonder if the publisher would respond to a letter writing campaign? 

IIRC, we (on this list) tried that a few years ago when the series was
discontinued.

--Robin


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What company are you all talking about?
Sue
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joan Jurancich" <joanmj@surewest.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 1:08 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims


> Maybe it's because I live in California, the state where the business 
> is located.  All I know is that I was told on the phone that they 
> only sell wholesale and would not fill my order.  It's annoying since 
> they are the only source of (inexpensive) cotton twill tape I have 
> found.  Fortunately, a 100-yard roll of 1/2-inch twill tape (or 
> 250-yard in narrower sizes)  last a long time.
> 
> And they must have increased their minimum order amount again.  It 
> was $60 when I ordered in June 2005.
> 
> Joan
> 
> At 05:51 AM 1/8/2006, you wrote:
>>Very curious! I have been ordering from them for years and have never had
>>the problem you speak of.
>>
>>Kathleen
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Joan Jurancich" <joanmj@surewest.net>
>>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>>Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 2:54 AM
>>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims
>>
>>
>> > At 11:19 PM 1/7/2006, you wrote:
>> > >>Catching up here.
>> > >>
>> > >>They only sell wholesale, so unless you have a resale number you
>> > >>won't be able to use them (recent personal
>> > >>experience).  Fortunately, I have a friend with a resale number and
>> > >>I just pay him the wholesale plus state sales tax and everything is
>>fine.
>> > >>
>> > >>
>> > >>Joan Jurancich
>> > >>joanmj@surewest.net
>> > >
>> > >I've ordered from them fairly recently (Aug) and didn't need a
>> > >resale number.  I have one, but they didn't ask for it.
>> > >
>> > >Melusine
>> >
>> > My experience in June was that they simply never filled my order,
>> > even though they sent me a confirmatory email.  Then, nothing.  I had
>> > to call them to find out what had happened.  And they still did not
>> > fill my order.
>> >
>> >
>> > Joan Jurancich
>> > joanmj@surewest.net
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Sun, 08 Jan 2006 18:37:02 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "twice-turned dress"
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At 02:51 PM 1/8/2006, you wrote:
>Martha Cratchet, in "A Christmas Carol", is said to be wearing a
>"twice-turned dress."  This term is new to me.  Does anyone know 
>what  it means?  Thanks.
>
>Nancy

In order to extend the life of a dress, one can take it apart, turn 
the pieces inside out, and turn the skirt top to bottom and back to 
front as well, then sew it back together. That way the faded outside 
is turned inside, and the worn parts are put in places where the 
fading/wear is not as obvious. It's a sign of extreme poverty to turn 
a dress a second time.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] This year's calendar selection
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On Sun, 8 Jan 2006, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

> > My other calendar (I keep two) is Tolkien -- his original art, not the
> > Hildebrandt or movie stuff. 
> 
> Interesting.  Where did you get that one?  I don't remember seeing it.

It has been in every store I've seen. The cover is yellowish background
with the big illustration of Smaug on the hoard of treasure, and the word
"Tolkien" at the top, and "The Hobbit Calendar 2006" at the bottom.

If you look at Amazon's listing, they have the *wrong* image -- there's an
Alan Lee "Lord of the Rings" *2007* calendar shown as the main image
(customer-submitted). Click on the small image, and you'll see the correct
one, but with a green background color; probably a pre-publication image
made before final printing, or maybe it was done in several colors.

Walmart has the same error; maybe the image was sent from the publisher by
mistake. The description also does not match the contents of the one I
bought, even though the ISBN is the same. What a mess.

Ah, here: Correct image, different ISBN:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/0007208138
Lord knows what you'll get if you try to order any of these :-(

I actually have all of the images from this calendar in a 1979
large-format, slipcovered edition of his paintings, but it's nice to have
them on view on the wall. (OK, I also have most of them in oversize
postcard prints, too, of which I framed seven many years ago, but those
pictures are in a box somewhere. Am I a geek? I bought these when they
were first released, in the late 1970s.) I have always liked Tolkien's
art; it's got a rather spare, primitive (in the artistic meaning of the
term) feel to it -- not what you'd expect from an English intellectual! In
fact, I almost bought the calendar of Hiroshige (Japanese) landscapes
because they harmonized nicely with the Tolkien images. (I keep my
calendars side-by-side on the wall, to show two different months for
reference.)

(I also display Japanese Imari china alongside my medieval art museum
posters in the dining room; the color choices and decorative elements are
very harmonious. A perfect blend, in fact, with the minium-orange and
lapis-blue French provincal print I made into curtains. I am a
period-purist in my historical reproductions, but not in my home decor.)

OBCostume: Ouch, that's hard. There's absolutely no costume content in the
Tolkien images. He showed very few people, and these are very tiny. It's
mostly landscapes.

--Robin


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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: twice-turned
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Nancy:

If I recall my Louisa May Alcott years correctly, a "turned" dress was one
that had been taken apart and put back together with the fabric that used to
be on the inside now on the outside, so that it did not look as worn or
stained. So I guess a "twice-turned" dress was on that had been taken apart
and put back together a second time.

Gail Finke


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] This year's calendar selection
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Robin, you are lucky girl!  I love coming across sales like that!

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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From: Audrey Bergeron-Morin <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "twice-turned dress"
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> Martha Cratchet, in "A Christmas Carol", is said to be wearing a
> "twice-turned dress."  This term is new to me.  Does anyone know what  it means?

This is just a guess, but I know that when suits got old and stained,
they took them apart and resewed them with the pieces inside out, so
that the side that was against the body would end up on the outside.
That side would be less damaged than the exposed side.

Speculation here, but a twice-turned dress could have been remade
twice so the better side was facing out.

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From: roscelinlimoges@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] This year's calendar selection
Date: Mon, 09 Jan 2006 04:16:30 +0000
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We also had the same problem finding any calendars with a medieval theme.  So this year we bought a calendar that dealt with France.  Each day has a picture that dealt with a place or object of France; and each month dealt with a different location in France.  

We decided to choose this calendar because it is my long time wish to go to France.  My fiance' has already been there when he was stationed in Europe.

Roscelin

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> 
> I've hit the 50% off sales on 2006 calendars at both Borders and a mall
> calendar store. What a disappointing choice this year! I saw nothing
> medieval aside from one "Angels" calendar and a Fra Angelico art calendar,
> neither of which is very useful for costume. I settled for a "Camelot"
> calendar full of Pre-Raphaelite images, including a few I hadn't seen
> before, all of them with sumptuous Victorian-medieval costume. Eye candy
> over my desk, and later I can use these in lectures about the popular
> image of the medieval.
> 
> My other calendar (I keep two) is Tolkien -- his original art, not the
> Hildebrandt or movie stuff. Almost went for Hiroshige.
> 
> I've had the same problem for a couple of years now.  I really miss the
> Medieval Woman calendars. (I've been choosing dance photography, space
> photos, and Edward Gorey.)
> 
> I hope people who are looking for suitable images from other periods had a
> better time of it than I did.
> 
> --Robin
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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While not as useful as The Medieval Woman calendars, there were a couple of possibilities out there if you didn't wait for the after-New Year sales and patronized the right bookseller.  Pages from the Spinola Hours were reproduced on 1 calendar and are beautiful examples of "squashed bug" style illumination.  Pages from the Kennicott Bible, a 1476 Spanish manuscript, were reproduced on another.

Several years ago, my local newspaper had a piece on BrownTrout Publishing and how they had achieved success in the calendar business by going for "niche" topics and I've thought they would be a good place to try for a "People in the Middle Ages" calendar. (Even if they aren't still publishing it, I'm sure Workman would be inclined to lawsuits if someone else did a "Medieval Woman" calendar.)  They have a web site, http://www.browntrout.com/index.asp , if anyone wants to write them.

Janet
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise
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How might I get that pattern? Is it in a book I might find at the library? 
It seems I need to find the library that has all these costuming books. I 
plan a day to go over to Lancaster, PA to visit one of the libraries 
recommended for me. I'll ask my local library if they can borrow the ones we 
can find in the area.
I appreciate the help. I know what I want to make just not sure how to MAKE 
it work.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "kelly grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 5:42 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise


>I have used Ms Hunnisett's 18thC hoop pattern, it balances beautifully! All 
>I did was scale it up! At the bottom edge mine is 2 yards across.
> Kelly
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 10:33 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise
>
>
>> Thanks. I'll look for that one at the library too.
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
>> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 9:17 AM
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise
>>
>>
>>> At 14:08 08/01/2006, you wrote:
>>>>I have to design a "Mother Ginger" costume for this Christmas play of 
>>>>the Nutcracker. I have many ideas from various sites. I see how to make 
>>>>the hoops atand out at different angles. I've thought about this since 
>>>>the first of December!!!! I work on it in my sleep. I've looked 
>>>>everywhere for a pattern to use but so far nothing is as large as I 
>>>>need. BUT some of the pictures I've found have been very helpful.
>>>>Yours has helped me to see how to put it together. Any suggestions on 
>>>>how to make the underpinning hoops or farthingale that is 2-3 yards 
>>>>across? It has to be large for that character.
>>>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" 
>>>><drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>>>>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>>>>Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 5:55 AM
>>>>Subject: [h-cost] robe a la francaise
>>>
>>>
>>> If you get a copy of "Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1500-1800" by 
>>> Jean Hunnisett there is a pannier pattern in there that you can simply 
>>> widen by folding the pattern and cutting extra onto the folded, centre 
>>> front and centre back edges. You will have to enlarge the pattern as it 
>>> is on a grid, but I am told that you can do this at "copy shops" and on 
>>> a computer. I have never done this as I enlarge direct onto pattern 
>>> paper, but there are various methods that will work.
>>>
>>> Suzi
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>>>
>> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "twice-turned dress"
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HI NANCY!!! This is Becky Rautine. I'm in the same costuming discussion 
group. I just saw your post and recognized your name. Maybe I need to just 
ask you these questions. You'd be my expert... and within reach of my home.
I will share my sketch of the dress as soon as I get it into the computer. 
I'd appreciate any advice you can give a beginner. I'm very good at the 
sewing and stitchery, but the period costumes are new to me.
I'm making a Mother Hinger costume for my daughter's ballet this next 
Christmas. Any suggestions? It's a robe a la francaise type like Marie 
Antoinette puffy one.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <SNSpies@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 5:51 PM
Subject: [h-cost] "twice-turned dress"


> Martha Cratchet, in "A Christmas Carol", is said to be wearing a
> "twice-turned dress."  This term is new to me.  Does anyone know what  it 
> means?  Thanks.
>
> Nancy
>
> <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
>
> Nancy  Spies
> Arelate Studio
> _www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html_
> (http://www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html)
>
> Save  the earth; it's the only planet with chocolate.
>
> "But if by 'Liberal' they  mean someone who looks ahead and not behind,
> someone who welcomes new ideas  without rigid reactions, someone who cares 
> about
> the welfare of the people --  their health, their housing, their schools, 
> their
> jobs, their civil rights, and  their civil liberties -- someone who 
> believes
> we can break through the stalemate  and suspicions that grip us in our 
> policies
> abroad, if that is what they mean by  'Liberal,' then I'm proud to say I'm 
> a
> 'Liberal'." John F. Kennedy, 14 Sept 1960
>
> _______________________________________________
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>>ear! 
>>    
>>
>
>You can say *that* again.  I was really frustrated when I did my calendar 
>shopping.  Sally Queen & Associates's 2006 calendar features costume of the 
>American "Wild West" period, a period in which I have almost no interest.  
>  
>
I'm interested in a wide variety of eras. I used to get the Medieval 
Women calendars. I have gotten all of the Sally Queen costume calendars 
except this year's, and the year when they did children's costume. 

For 2006, I got a calendar of fashion plates from the _Gazette du Bon 
Ton_, called the "Golden Age of Fashion."  It is sold on this web page:

http://www.rsvp.com/index.cfm?function=home&SubCatID=9&catid=19

I haven't seen it, but Workman Publishing did a 2006 calendar called 
"Shoes Gallery."  Bata Shoe Museum has done a nice calendar or two--I 
got one a few years ago, but haven't seen one for 2006.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com


>  
>
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In a message dated 1/8/2006 11:28:43 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
zeartiste@hotmail.com writes:

I'm  making a Mother Hinger costume for my daughter's ballet this next  
Christmas. Any suggestions? It's a robe a la francaise type like Marie  
Antoinette puffy one.



**********************
 
We did "Nutcracker" every year at school [NCSA]. I remember our Mother  
Ginger was played by the tallest man in the dance department. The huge pannier  was 
at 1st made of plywood and weighed like 800 pounds. Later it was fashioned  
out of PVC pipe....the plastic piping plumbers used. What a relief for the  
dancer! He also wore plasterer stilts....or something like them, that made him  
over a foot taller. We made long  frilly pantaloons to cover these....and  you 
did catch a glimpse of them when the children [8 or them] promenade out  from 
under her skirts and, after their minuet, run back under.
 
The contraption looked like an open robe with a contrasting petticoat but  in 
reality the skirts were all attached to the pannier and the bodice was  
separate. The dancer would pull a cord at the point of the bodice and the  [faked] 
petticoat part would draw up like an Austrian curtain to let the  children out 
and back in.
 
The gown was all cinnamon and coffee-with-cream colored taffeta  with lots of 
swags and huge satin flowers and bows in pastel colors at the  top of the 
panniers....decorated with white lace. She looked like a big fancy  iced cake.
 
She had a towering 1770s do with a huge delicate mob cap with lace and bows  
and things perched on top. A great costume. 
 
The dancer would swing those big "hips" back and forth while the children  
danced their minuet.
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Subject: [h-cost] PBS Henry VIII
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I've just been watching the new Henry Viii on PBS with Helena Bonham 
Carter as Anne Boleyn.  I noticed that all her dresses go straight down 
from bust to waist,  not pinching in at the waist at all, and making 
her look somewhat pregnant when she's not.  While I realize this era's 
silhouette is flat at the bustline, I don't think I've ever seen it 
pooch out in front at the waist the way it does on Ms. Bonham Carter.  
I know there are a lot of English Renaissance experts on this list who 
can advise if this is correct or does it have something to do with the 
actress's own shape (on the busty side)?

Sylrog

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] PBS Henry VIII
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In a message dated 1/9/2006 12:32:21 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sylvia@ntw.net writes:

I don't  think I've ever seen it 
pooch out in front at the waist the way it does on  Ms. Bonham Carter.  
I know there are a lot of English Renaissance  experts on this list who 
can advise if this is correct or does it have  something to do with the 
actress's own shape (on the busty  side)?




*******************************
 
It doesn't do that in "Lady Jane", does it? Must be the cut of the  
dress....unless she is pregnant [with Elizabeth?] :-P
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Italian Underwear
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Um, I have a rank newbie question. I was always told that ladies didn't  wear 
drawers in this period. Is that a myth, or a regional thing, possibly? I  
usually do English. 
 
And I've always suspected that it couldn't be true. I've BEEN to England.  It 
gets COLD there.
 
Thanks for your forbearance,
Tea Rose
 
In a message dated 1/6/2006 9:34:23 A.M. Central Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

Date:  Fri, 6 Jan 2006 07:48:17 -0500 (EST)
From: Kathy Page  <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
Subject: [h-cost] Italian  Underwear

I am gearing up for my visit to the Met to document
their 16th century  Sicilian Bride underpinning
collection and a pair of chopines.
This delay  has proven fortuitous in that the curator,
knowing how much we are trying to  cover in a short
period of time, gave us an additional 2 hours with  the
collection, totalling 6 hours of delerious pleasure
with 2 pairs of  drawers, 2 chemises, a shirt, a pair
of stockings and a pair of chopines. 
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] This year's calendar selection
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 01:00:17 -0500
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On Sunday 08 January 2006 10:21 pm, Robin Netherton wrote:
> On Sun, 8 Jan 2006, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
> > > My other calendar (I keep two) is Tolkien -- his original art, not the
> > > Hildebrandt or movie stuff.
> >
> > Interesting.  Where did you get that one?  I don't remember seeing it.
>
> It has been in every store I've seen. The cover is yellowish background
> with the big illustration of Smaug on the hoard of treasure, and the word
> "Tolkien" at the top, and "The Hobbit Calendar 2006" at the bottom.

I don't remember seeing it here, and the picture on Amazon (that you give the 
URL for below) would not have sold me; I was thinking of line drawing instead 
of color art for some reason when I thought of Tolkien's own art.

[snip]
>
> (I also display Japanese Imari china alongside my medieval art museum
> posters in the dining room; the color choices and decorative elements are
> very harmonious. A perfect blend, in fact, with the minium-orange and
> lapis-blue French provincal print I made into curtains. I am a
> period-purist in my historical reproductions, but not in my home decor.)

Of course not.  Our home has a bit of an international flavor too.  

>
> OBCostume: Ouch, that's hard. There's absolutely no costume content in the
> Tolkien images. He showed very few people, and these are very tiny. It's
> mostly landscapes.

Right, I know that.  Even so, I was having trouble finding landscapish 
calendars I'd want to buy.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical 
results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] This year's calendar selection
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On Monday 09 January 2006 12:07 am, Lavolta Press wrote:
> >>ear!
> >
> >You can say *that* again.  I was really frustrated when I did my calendar
> >shopping.  Sally Queen & Associates's 2006 calendar features costume of
> > the American "Wild West" period, a period in which I have almost no
> > interest.
>
> I'm interested in a wide variety of eras. I used to get the Medieval
> Women calendars. I have gotten all of the Sally Queen costume calendars
> except this year's, and the year when they did children's costume.

I have almost all of the Sally Queen calendars myself.  I too am interested in 
a wide variety of eras; it's just that the Wild West is one of the few that 
I'm *disinterested* in.

>
> For 2006, I got a calendar of fashion plates from the _Gazette du Bon
> Ton_, called the "Golden Age of Fashion."  It is sold on this web page:
>
> http://www.rsvp.com/index.cfm?function=home&SubCatID=9&catid=19
>
> I haven't seen it, but Workman Publishing did a 2006 calendar called
> "Shoes Gallery."  Bata Shoe Museum has done a nice calendar or two--I
> got one a few years ago, but haven't seen one for 2006.

I need a wall-sized calendar with spaces for the days big enough to write in; 
I saw the "Shoes Gallery" calendar; I believe it's small sized-too small to 
be useful as a calendar to me.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical 
results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] PBS Henry VIII
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On Monday 09 January 2006 12:31 am, Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
> I've just been watching the new Henry Viii on PBS with Helena Bonham
> Carter as Anne Boleyn.  I noticed that all her dresses go straight down
> from bust to waist,  not pinching in at the waist at all, and making
> her look somewhat pregnant when she's not.  While I realize this era's
> silhouette is flat at the bustline, I don't think I've ever seen it
> pooch out in front at the waist the way it does on Ms. Bonham Carter.
> I know there are a lot of English Renaissance experts on this list who
> can advise if this is correct or does it have something to do with the
> actress's own shape (on the busty side)?

Is it possible that the *actress* was pregnant at the time of filming and the 
costume was deliberately cut to obscure that fact?  I have no idea, I don't 
follow what goes on with actors, it was just a thought.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical 
results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
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Date: Mon, 09 Jan 2006 06:11:53 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] PBS Henry VIII
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At 05:40 09/01/2006, you wrote:
>
>In a message dated 1/9/2006 12:32:21 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>sylvia@ntw.net writes:
>
>I don't  think I've ever seen it
>pooch out in front at the waist the way it does on  Ms. Bonham Carter.
>I know there are a lot of English Renaissance  experts on this list who
>can advise if this is correct or does it have  something to do with the
>actress's own shape (on the busty  side)?


Ms. Bonham Carter was pregnant in reality when she filmed Henry Vlll, 
hence the rather odd costume shape.

Suzi 


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Date: Mon, 09 Jan 2006 07:36:47 +0000
From: rwfranz <rwfranz@hotpop.com>
Subject: [h-cost] English underwear (was: Italian Underwear)
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Generally established as true. Yes, England is cold. And, no, not 
everybody wore 70 pounds of clothing (I exaggerate!). But -

Go to http://costume.dm.net/overview.html and read. There could be 8 
layers of cloth (or more), and while many of them could be silk or 
linen, in cold weather you can bet there was wool also.

That site (http://costume.dm.net) is an excellent one to peruse, 
particularly for doing English 16th century.

Roger

TeaRoseS@aol.com wrote:

>Um, I have a rank newbie question. I was always told that ladies didn't  wear 
>drawers in this period. Is that a myth, or a regional thing, possibly? I  
>usually do English. 
> 
>And I've always suspected that it couldn't be true. I've BEEN to England.  It 
>gets COLD there.
> 
>Thanks for your forbearance,
>Tea Rose
> 
>In a message dated 1/6/2006 9:34:23 A.M. Central Standard Time,  
>h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
>
>Date:  Fri, 6 Jan 2006 07:48:17 -0500 (EST)
>From: Kathy Page  <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
>Subject: [h-cost] Italian  Underwear
>
>I am gearing up for my visit to the Met to document
>their 16th century  Sicilian Bride underpinning
>collection and a pair of chopines.
>This delay  has proven fortuitous in that the curator,
>knowing how much we are trying to  cover in a short
>period of time, gave us an additional 2 hours with  the
>collection, totalling 6 hours of delerious pleasure
>with 2 pairs of  drawers, 2 chemises, a shirt, a pair
>of stockings and a pair of chopines. 
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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>
>  
>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Italian Underwear
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Greetings!

Welcome to the 16th century, a fun and exciting place. <G>  Drawers 
arrived in England during Elizabeth's reign but were considered 
novelties and "foreign."  They weren't adopted as regular wear until 
later.  I've lived in England (as well as Canada and the US) and 
didn't find it that cold at all, so I think it is all a matter of 
perspective.  Certainly once you have all the correct layers on, 
drawers aren't going to make much difference except for possibly 
during activities like horseback riding.  However, having seen 16th 
century sidesaddles (rather odd looking contraptions - one was round 
and perfectly flat with a peg sticking up for the leg to hook over) 
even then the drawers would be rather immaterial.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 11:53 PM 1/8/2006, you wrote:
>Um, I have a rank newbie question. I was always told that ladies didn't  wear
>drawers in this period. Is that a myth, or a regional thing, possibly? I
>usually do English.
>
>And I've always suspected that it couldn't be true. I've BEEN to England.  It
>gets COLD there.
>
>Thanks for your forbearance,
>Tea Rose

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another period program on tv
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At 07:25 PM 1/8/2006, you wrote:
>Costume related viewing,
>
>Anyone catch the "Madness of Henry VIII"?
>The title seemed dubious, but I thought I would check it out anyway. (It
>just started on the National Geographic channel for those interested)
>So far it appears to be a standard documentary, with just a sensational
>title.  In the short bit I have seen, costumes superficially seem okay.  And
>the history is correct so far (although we are still on Catherine).
>Its not my focus period and I haven't seen much yet.  I'll have to keep
>watching to see how the program turns out.
>
>Kaitlin

OPINION ALERT!
Well, I watched it tonight - I thought the women's costuming was 10x 
worse than the men's (as usual) with rather odd headdresses in 
particular.  In my opinion it greatly resembled the 19th century view 
of the 16th century - it was to Henry and his wives what many in the 
19th century thought of "poor Mary Queen of Scots" and "the evil 
Queen Elizabeth" - their ideas (not mine!!!!).  I found it to be 
rather tabloid feeling in its approach to the entire thing, and while 
strictly correct in facts, attributed a lot of emotions that I think 
they would be hard pressed to document.  Catherine of Aragon came 
across as the wronged noble, almost saintly queen, and they stated 
outright that Henry went mad as he got older!  Anyway, it was an 
interesting counterpoint to Starkey's account and worth watching once.

Cheers,
Danielle 

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Subject: [h-cost] Toni's aka Genevieve's 12th Night Renn Costume STOLEN
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Hello all-
I'm sending this post to literally everyone in my email address book,
(most especially the h-costume list.)   At a minimum, it will serve as
a sad reminder to never leave anything of value in your car even if
you're too tired to take it inside after the event.

One of my sewing buddies, Toni Whyte (SCA Genevieve de Vendome), had
her beautiful Elizabethan 12th Night costume and jewelry was STOLEN
from her car in front of my friends' house in Fremont, Calif last
night.

Below is a detailed list of the missing items which are of great
sentimental value (not to mention a lot of work on the part of many
SCA artisans).  Several pictures are also posted online at:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/hysteria95126/my_photos
The album is "Stolen gown belongs to Toni aka Genevieve."

Please cross post his missive to any and all lists that you can think
of in hopes of locating the stolen items; with only six degrees of
separation, hopefully someone somewhere will see these if & when they
surface. (It's already gone to several SF-SJ-Oakland area SCA groups.)

If anyone hears or sees anything resembling these at pawn shops /
antique stores / clothing resale shops / email lists/ ebay, please let
me know: rachael DOT keish AT gmail DOT com.  I'm offering a reward
for the gowns and pendants, no questions asked, just to try and
recover them.

Sincerely,
Marguerite du Royon
AKA Rachael Keish
(and Cynthia Barnes  CinBarnes@gmail.com)
____________________________________________

Stolen item descriptions:
- A custom made rennaissance-type pendant of 22 kt. gold, emeralds,
and a black baroque pearl. Piece is a dolphin being ridden by a
sea-nymph. Black baroque pearl forms the dolphin's head, and the
dolphin is suspended from a green emerald pin by two chains.  An
emerald dangled also below the dolphin.

-  Laurel's medallion pendant in a renaissance style. Cloisonnee, with
a background of gold with a green laurel wreath, within a silver
frame. The laurel pendant is suspended from a pin by two chains, and
three freshwater pearls dangle from the bottom of it.

- Custom-made 16th Century Elizabethan gown, with hoop skirt and
corset. White brocade, with gold trim.  Sleeves are made of strips of
brocade with gold trim, that have white silk organza puffs between 2
kinds of buttons.

- The matching gold pill-box-type round hat has embroidery and pearls
around the sides, and a red cross of toulouse embroidered on top.

- Custom-made red velveteen open gown/ropa/overgown with gold silk
lining. Short rounded sleeves, made of crossed-strapwork trimmed in
red and gold braid, with white silk-organza puffs showing through. The
collar shows the gold lining and has two red Cross of Toulouse
embroidered on it at each corner.

- Ruby cabuchon earrings, with three seed-pearls.

- Costume jewelry set of necklace, bracelet, and earrings. Gold plate
with red marquis shaped stones.

(If you're in the 'hood & can lend a hand, thanks for the help.  And
if you're too far away to help, go ahead and look at the pictures
anyway. Toni's workmanship is quite something.)
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "twice-turned dress"
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 07:12:49 -0400
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A twice turned dress would mean that the skirt was first taken off and 
flipped upsidedown, so the former hem is at the waist, then taken apart 
again and flipped inside out, or maybe the panels are sideways to what they 
were.

Poverty sucks! But, often you could tell the stature of a woman, because she 
worn fabrics that could not be 'turned', the fabrics with large prints along 
the bottom, that fade to smaller ones at the waist, for instance, would be 
difficult to turn nicely.
Kelly
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <SNSpies@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 6:51 PM
Subject: [h-cost] "twice-turned dress"


> Martha Cratchet, in "A Christmas Carol", is said to be wearing a
> "twice-turned dress."  This term is new to me.  Does anyone know what  it 
> means?  Thanks.
>
> Nancy
>
> <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
>
> Nancy  Spies
> Arelate Studio
> _www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html_
> (http://www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html)
>
> Save  the earth; it's the only planet with chocolate.
>
> "But if by 'Liberal' they  mean someone who looks ahead and not behind,
> someone who welcomes new ideas  without rigid reactions, someone who cares 
> about
> the welfare of the people --  their health, their housing, their schools, 
> their
> jobs, their civil rights, and  their civil liberties -- someone who 
> believes
> we can break through the stalemate  and suspicions that grip us in our 
> policies
> abroad, if that is what they mean by  'Liberal,' then I'm proud to say I'm 
> a
> 'Liberal'." John F. Kennedy, 14 Sept 1960
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] PBS Henry VIII
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I had some serious issues with a lot of H Bohnam Carter's clothing in the 
episode I watched last night...What were those things on her head??? That 
and the shape of the dresses.  The stays in this period would have been 
close to what she had on, but would have come in to her actual waist, while 
not chinching it.  Her breasts totally disappeared in the bodices, they 
would have shown a bit, it looked like the bodices were biult for another 
actress who was much larger.  The shape of the skirts also bothered me a 
bit...too linear, without any bell at all in some of them.

But that's my opinion...take it for what it's worth
Kelly
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sylvia Rognstad" <sylvia@ntw.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 1:31 AM
Subject: [h-cost] PBS Henry VIII


> I've just been watching the new Henry Viii on PBS with Helena Bonham 
> Carter as Anne Boleyn.  I noticed that all her dresses go straight down 
> from bust to waist,  not pinching in at the waist at all, and making her 
> look somewhat pregnant when she's not.  While I realize this era's 
> silhouette is flat at the bustline, I don't think I've ever seen it pooch 
> out in front at the waist the way it does on Ms. Bonham Carter.  I know 
> there are a lot of English Renaissance experts on this list who can advise 
> if this is correct or does it have something to do with the actress's own 
> shape (on the busty side)?
>
> Sylrog
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] PBS Henry VIII
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Aaaaahhhhhhh HA!( to quote a comercial on the local french network right 
now)
Thanks for the insight, it explains a lot!
Kelly
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 2:11 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] PBS Henry VIII


> At 05:40 09/01/2006, you wrote:
>>
>>In a message dated 1/9/2006 12:32:21 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>>sylvia@ntw.net writes:
>>
>>I don't  think I've ever seen it
>>pooch out in front at the waist the way it does on  Ms. Bonham Carter.
>>I know there are a lot of English Renaissance  experts on this list who
>>can advise if this is correct or does it have  something to do with the
>>actress's own shape (on the busty  side)?
>
>
> Ms. Bonham Carter was pregnant in reality when she filmed Henry Vlll, 
> hence the rather odd costume shape.
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "kelly grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <000f01c61442$129ddb10$7c83fea9@CPQ21932199711><BAY101-DAV1719B6EA0A9A8B52792CE3BC230@phx.gbl><6.2.3.4.0.20060108141356.01d9aed0@127.0.0.1><BAY101-DAV10CFA7C5C88CC8B5DAE37EBC230@phx.gbl><BAY107-DAV17006BA40370924B6B7A9291230@phx.gbl>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 07:28:06 -0400
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"Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1500-1800" by
 Jean Hunnisett is the book, and should be in your local library. ;-> If you 
have any questions, I'm sure a lot of us can help you out.

Kelly


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 12:23 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise


> How might I get that pattern? Is it in a book I might find at the library? 
> It seems I need to find the library that has all these costuming books. I 
> plan a day to go over to Lancaster, PA to visit one of the libraries 
> recommended for me. I'll ask my local library if they can borrow the ones 
> we can find in the area.
> I appreciate the help. I know what I want to make just not sure how to 
> MAKE it work.
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "kelly grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 5:42 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise
>
>
>>I have used Ms Hunnisett's 18thC hoop pattern, it balances beautifully! 
>>All I did was scale it up! At the bottom edge mine is 2 yards across.
>> Kelly
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
>> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 10:33 AM
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise
>>
>>
>>> Thanks. I'll look for that one at the library too.
>>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>>> From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
>>> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>>> Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 9:17 AM
>>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise
>>>
>>>
>>>> At 14:08 08/01/2006, you wrote:
>>>>>I have to design a "Mother Ginger" costume for this Christmas play of 
>>>>>the Nutcracker. I have many ideas from various sites. I see how to make 
>>>>>the hoops atand out at different angles. I've thought about this since 
>>>>>the first of December!!!! I work on it in my sleep. I've looked 
>>>>>everywhere for a pattern to use but so far nothing is as large as I 
>>>>>need. BUT some of the pictures I've found have been very helpful.
>>>>>Yours has helped me to see how to put it together. Any suggestions on 
>>>>>how to make the underpinning hoops or farthingale that is 2-3 yards 
>>>>>across? It has to be large for that character.
>>>>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" 
>>>>><drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>>>>>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>>>>>Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 5:55 AM
>>>>>Subject: [h-cost] robe a la francaise
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> If you get a copy of "Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1500-1800" by 
>>>> Jean Hunnisett there is a pannier pattern in there that you can simply 
>>>> widen by folding the pattern and cutting extra onto the folded, centre 
>>>> front and centre back edges. You will have to enlarge the pattern as it 
>>>> is on a grid, but I am told that you can do this at "copy shops" and on 
>>>> a computer. I have never done this as I enlarge direct onto pattern 
>>>> paper, but there are various methods that will work.
>>>>
>>>> Suzi
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> h-costume mailing list
>>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
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>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>>
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Henry VIII
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This quote from Helena Bonham Carter is from an interview with her on the 
PBS website:

"I was pregnant during filming, making dressing up in the lavish costumes 
required for a Tudor queen no mean feat! It's not exactly suitable maternity 
wear! But the corsets gave some continuity while I got bigger each week. 
Luckily they are not too tight or I may have ended up with a baby with a 
flat head!

Some of the costumes were re-cut up to four times during filming. The 
dresses were designed with longer bodices than typical Tudor dresses to 
distract from the waistline and the lacings were placed at the backsides for 
ease and comfort."

Kate

>
>Message: 4
>Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2006 22:31:48 -0700
>From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
>Subject: [h-cost] PBS Henry VIII
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Message-ID: <ceb4495dc86ce8f67c895a3e955fcc5c@ntw.net>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
>
>I've just been watching the new Henry Viii on PBS with Helena Bonham
>Carter as Anne Boleyn.  I noticed that all her dresses go straight down
>from bust to waist,  not pinching in at the waist at all, and making
>her look somewhat pregnant when she's not.  While I realize this era's
>silhouette is flat at the bustline, I don't think I've ever seen it
>pooch out in front at the waist the way it does on Ms. Bonham Carter.
>I know there are a lot of English Renaissance experts on this list who
>can advise if this is correct or does it have something to do with the
>actress's own shape (on the busty side)?
>
>Sylrog
>
>


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "twice-turned dress"
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That is what the idea is here. Same concept of the stilts and panier 
underneath. Do you have a pattern for that? I have lots of online "Gown" 
patterns that I might be able to use but none of the exact one to use. Can 
you send me a copy of your costume stetch or what pattern you used? We WILL 
NOT BE USING YOUR DESIGN, just how to make ours.
We had planned to use PVC pipe or bend bamboo for the skirt roundness/shape. 
Someone told us about how to make the skirt like a float with a base. This 
way we don't have to use the stilts. I'm not sure the base will work or not. 
If we can get it to work, the kids will ride onto stage and jump out when it 
stops. It'ss be on casters with the dancer standing in a secure frame so he 
can be taller than normal without the stilts. Whoever is chosen to be Mother 
Ginger won't have to know how to walk in stilts. we hope to ask a local 
celebraty to "become" Mother Ginger.
We also thought that some of the decorations on the skirt look like those 
little cookies that are on a gingerbread house. The kids will come out from 
under the skirt and pull one of the cookies off the dress. It becomes their 
hat. The hat is on with velcro. That was my idea. It also gives them 
something more to do than just jump out and dance. It adds a bit of humor ot 
the scene.
My daugher thought it would be funny for the wig to fall off. Maybe the 
character can remove it in curtain call. That would be funny for people to 
see that it is the celebraty.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 12:22 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "twice-turned dress"


>
> In a message dated 1/8/2006 11:28:43 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> zeartiste@hotmail.com writes:
>
> I'm  making a Mother Hinger costume for my daughter's ballet this next
> Christmas. Any suggestions? It's a robe a la francaise type like Marie
> Antoinette puffy one.
>
>
>
> **********************
>
> We did "Nutcracker" every year at school [NCSA]. I remember our Mother
> Ginger was played by the tallest man in the dance department. The huge 
> pannier  was
> at 1st made of plywood and weighed like 800 pounds. Later it was fashioned
> out of PVC pipe....the plastic piping plumbers used. What a relief for the
> dancer! He also wore plasterer stilts....or something like them, that made 
> him
> over a foot taller. We made long  frilly pantaloons to cover these....and 
> you
> did catch a glimpse of them when the children [8 or them] promenade out 
> from
> under her skirts and, after their minuet, run back under.
>
> The contraption looked like an open robe with a contrasting petticoat but 
> in
> reality the skirts were all attached to the pannier and the bodice was
> separate. The dancer would pull a cord at the point of the bodice and the 
> [faked]
> petticoat part would draw up like an Austrian curtain to let the  children 
> out
> and back in.
>
> The gown was all cinnamon and coffee-with-cream colored taffeta  with lots 
> of
> swags and huge satin flowers and bows in pastel colors at the  top of the
> panniers....decorated with white lace. She looked like a big fancy  iced 
> cake.
>
> She had a towering 1770s do with a huge delicate mob cap with lace and 
> bows
> and things perched on top. A great costume.
>
> The dancer would swing those big "hips" back and forth while the children
> danced their minuet.
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
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Subject: [h-cost] OT: non-slip gum for shoulder straps?
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Hello all

This is /kind/ of costume related - I've just had to
design my first corset with straps for a lovely
customer who is a) self-conscious and b) lop-sided,
after a very dislocating shoulder finally got operated
on... What can I say, it doesn't seem to matter how
carefully I fit the strap, one or t'other creeps down.

Since the corset will be used for ceilidhing and
general dancing, she's going to need them to stay in
place.

Does anyone have a tip on making those gummy strips
I've seen on the inside of some ready to wear garments
that hold semi-off the shoulder straps in place? I'd
thought of some kind of glue or silicon sealant (hmmm
- might stain the shiny fabric on top).

Many many thanks,

Katherine who's based in the UK so some suppliers are out.

"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright


		
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Subject: [h-cost] Cleveland, Ohio
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I will be traveling to Cleveland, Ohio next week - any suggestions for must visit fabric or bead stores, museums, etc?
 I've been invited to give a talk for "Quester's" group there by a friend; the title is "From Here to There and Back Again: A Guide to Travel in Antebellum America". As I don't have a "proper" travel gown, I plan to dress entirely inappropriately, i.e.. too colorful, too high style, large hoop, too much jewelry, too much hand baggage, etc

Thanks for any suggestions on places to visit,
Kelly Dorman
Backward Glances
www.backwardglances.net 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another period program on tv
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Karolee Smiley wrote:

> Costume related viewing,
> 
> Anyone catch the "Madness of Henry VIII"?

I thought it was okay. I would have liked to have heard more about Henry 
in his younger days and more about his later wives. The show was 90% 
about Anne, and they spent all of 15 seconds each on his last marriages. 
Still there were some interesting historical tidbits about his reign 
that I hadn't heard before.

The costumes were just costumes. Somebody tried, but the women obviously 
weren't in corsets, and it looked like a lot of the layering for both 
sexes was faked. For a 1 hour tv drama I was ok with everything except 
Anne's hat.


Dawn


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Fynes Moryson notes that women in Italy (and in parts of Germany) wore 
"breeches" under their gowns...(I think this is online at project ) 
Gutenberg, if you want to read the account.)  He notes these exceptions 
in this period (~1598~1604) of time as an anomaly.

Sg

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Toni's aka Genevieve's 12th Night Renn Costume STOLEN
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 09:03:10 -0500
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That is awfull!!!! That is such a beatiful costume. I'd send pictures to 
every pawn shop in 100 miles of the place where it was stolen. I sure hopw 
someone filed a police report on it. Then the pawn shops HAVE to report it 
as stolen. Otherwise there is no official "stolen property" report to make 
them give you your costume back.
Contact the local paper and have them write an article on it. That way the 
news will get out to the local area. Call the tv station. Whatever will give 
you their time.
I know it doesn't replace the costume, but it may fall under your car 
insurance policy... BUT it needs the police report. I found that out the 
hard way. I had a camera stolen from my purse.
Good luck in retrieving the costume.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cin" <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: "h-cost" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 3:31 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Toni's aka Genevieve's 12th Night Renn Costume STOLEN


> Hello all-
> I'm sending this post to literally everyone in my email address book,
> (most especially the h-costume list.)   At a minimum, it will serve as
> a sad reminder to never leave anything of value in your car even if
> you're too tired to take it inside after the event.
>
> One of my sewing buddies, Toni Whyte (SCA Genevieve de Vendome), had
> her beautiful Elizabethan 12th Night costume and jewelry was STOLEN
> from her car in front of my friends' house in Fremont, Calif last
> night.
>
> Below is a detailed list of the missing items which are of great
> sentimental value (not to mention a lot of work on the part of many
> SCA artisans).  Several pictures are also posted online at:
> http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/hysteria95126/my_photos
> The album is "Stolen gown belongs to Toni aka Genevieve."
>
> Please cross post his missive to any and all lists that you can think
> of in hopes of locating the stolen items; with only six degrees of
> separation, hopefully someone somewhere will see these if & when they
> surface. (It's already gone to several SF-SJ-Oakland area SCA groups.)
>
> If anyone hears or sees anything resembling these at pawn shops /
> antique stores / clothing resale shops / email lists/ ebay, please let
> me know: rachael DOT keish AT gmail DOT com.  I'm offering a reward
> for the gowns and pendants, no questions asked, just to try and
> recover them.
>
> Sincerely,
> Marguerite du Royon
> AKA Rachael Keish
> (and Cynthia Barnes  CinBarnes@gmail.com)
> ____________________________________________
>
> Stolen item descriptions:
> - A custom made rennaissance-type pendant of 22 kt. gold, emeralds,
> and a black baroque pearl. Piece is a dolphin being ridden by a
> sea-nymph. Black baroque pearl forms the dolphin's head, and the
> dolphin is suspended from a green emerald pin by two chains.  An
> emerald dangled also below the dolphin.
>
> -  Laurel's medallion pendant in a renaissance style. Cloisonnee, with
> a background of gold with a green laurel wreath, within a silver
> frame. The laurel pendant is suspended from a pin by two chains, and
> three freshwater pearls dangle from the bottom of it.
>
> - Custom-made 16th Century Elizabethan gown, with hoop skirt and
> corset. White brocade, with gold trim.  Sleeves are made of strips of
> brocade with gold trim, that have white silk organza puffs between 2
> kinds of buttons.
>
> - The matching gold pill-box-type round hat has embroidery and pearls
> around the sides, and a red cross of toulouse embroidered on top.
>
> - Custom-made red velveteen open gown/ropa/overgown with gold silk
> lining. Short rounded sleeves, made of crossed-strapwork trimmed in
> red and gold braid, with white silk-organza puffs showing through. The
> collar shows the gold lining and has two red Cross of Toulouse
> embroidered on it at each corner.
>
> - Ruby cabuchon earrings, with three seed-pearls.
>
> - Costume jewelry set of necklace, bracelet, and earrings. Gold plate
> with red marquis shaped stones.
>
> (If you're in the 'hood & can lend a hand, thanks for the help.  And
> if you're too far away to help, go ahead and look at the pictures
> anyway. Toni's workmanship is quite something.)
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: non-slip gum for shoulder straps?
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At 14:08 09/01/2006, you wrote:
>Hello all
>
>This is /kind/ of costume related - I've just had to
>design my first corset with straps for a lovely
>customer who is a) self-conscious and b) lop-sided,
>after a very dislocating shoulder finally got operated
>on... What can I say, it doesn't seem to matter how
>carefully I fit the strap, one or t'other creeps down.
>
>Since the corset will be used for ceilidhing and
>general dancing, she's going to need them to stay in
>place.
>
>Does anyone have a tip on making those gummy strips
>I've seen on the inside of some ready to wear garments
>that hold semi-off the shoulder straps in place? I'd
>thought of some kind of glue or silicon sealant (hmmm
>- might stain the shiny fabric on top).
>
>Many many thanks,
>
>Katherine who's based in the UK so some suppliers are out.


Katherine

Contact MacCulloch and Wallis - they have, I think, special straps to 
add to underwear. www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk


Otherwise, use a piece of elastic, made slightly shorter than the 
strap, stitched at both ends, and herringboned across the length. Sew 
it to the underside. That one works for me. Or use elastic to attach 
the straps at the front. That also works - might not be "authentic" 
but needs must sometimes.

Suzi 


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Subject: [h-cost] re:knit stockings
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Have you considered doing a "cut and sewn" stocking? 

 I have used the pattern from Kanniks Korner (www.kannikskorner.com  #KK-6001 "Stockings, Pockets, Mitts) with great success using both cotton and wool knit fabric. I've not yet found an appropriate silk knit fabric, however, this fall when unpacking my winter clothes, I had an "Aha!!" moment - and am considering utilizing the fabric in a pair of silk long johns; they are not quite a pure white, but pretty close. 

By doing some simple customizing of the pattern, you can have perfectly fitting stockings; no more baggy ankles or heels half way up the calf. An example can be seen on website at www.backwardglances.net under Civil War items.

(See Carolann - your class has stuck with me!!! And I have accumulated a great deal of supporting documentation that this type of stockings is by far the most common for our time period)

And of course, you could do some fabulous clockwork before assembling them.

Kelly Dorman
Backward Glances
www.backwardglances.net
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Subject: [h-cost] Reveal your costumes to the world at Am I Period or Not
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Good evening all,
Many of the costumers out there will already have heard about Am I Period or 
Not but recently the flow of new photo submissions has slowed to a trickle, 
so for those who have never heard of it or those who have new photos (or 
even new outfits) please consider submitting a photo of your work and enjoy 
the virtual adulation of people all across the globe. Those who have a new 
outfit for 12th night celebrations remember to take a camera with you and 
ask somebody to get your photo.
If you have a photo of a costume you have made, from any period of history, 
please consider submitting it to Am I Period Or Not (aka AIPON) 
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/. The 16th century costumers still 
seem to be the most productive set (with more photos submitted than any 
other era), with the 19th century a close second. But there are so many 
other styles out there and it would be fabulous if we could see what 
costumers have been doing in all eras (even ones that never really existed 
like Lord of the Rings)
Please pass this on to anybody you think would be interested, after all it's 
much quicker and simpler to email a photo to us (see 
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/photos.htm for submission rules) than 
setting up your own webpage (even if you do have your own webpage you can 
always put photos of your work on AIPON and include a link to your webpage 
for more info).
If you are unfamiliar with the concept here's a brief summary: People send
in photos of the historical costumes they've made, the photos are loaded
onto a website where people can view them, vote on how period accurate they
are and leave comments. While the original site was for pre 1600 costume 
only The New Am I Period Or Not website covers the fashions of any era you 
like, from the first civilisations to the day before yesterday (plus 
imaginary eras).
I hope to see a flood of new and interesting photos in response to this 
email.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] PBS Henry VIII
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>>Ms. Bonham Carter was pregnant in reality when she filmed Henry 
>>Vlll, hence the rather odd costume shape.
>>
>>Suzi

>Aaaaahhhhhhh HA!( to quote a comercial on the local french network right now)
>Thanks for the insight, it explains a lot!
>Kelly


Doesn't explain the Indian saree silks though, does it?

Suzi

>>>I don't  think I've ever seen it
>>>pooch out in front at the waist the way it does on  Ms. Bonham Carter.
>>>I know there are a lot of English Renaissance  experts on this list who
>>>can advise if this is correct or does it have  something to do with the
>>>actress's own shape (on the busty  side)?


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Please contact me off list. I don't think my email is getting through to 
you.




  Dawn

  (Apologies if you see this multiple times, I'm having problems with my 
mail  server. )

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] PBS Henry VIII
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 08:55:08 -0700
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Why on earth would they cast a woman who was that pregnant at the time 
of filming?  Did they think no one would notice her odd shape?

Sylrog

On Jan 9, 2006, at 4:25 AM, kelly grant wrote:

> Aaaaahhhhhhh HA!( to quote a comercial on the local french network 
> right now)
> Thanks for the insight, it explains a lot!
> Kelly
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Suzi Clarke" 
> <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 2:11 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] PBS Henry VIII
>
>
>> At 05:40 09/01/2006, you wrote:
>>>
>>> In a message dated 1/9/2006 12:32:21 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>>> sylvia@ntw.net writes:
>>>
>>> I don't  think I've ever seen it
>>> pooch out in front at the waist the way it does on  Ms. Bonham 
>>> Carter.
>>> I know there are a lot of English Renaissance  experts on this list 
>>> who
>>> can advise if this is correct or does it have  something to do with 
>>> the
>>> actress's own shape (on the busty  side)?
>>
>>
>> Ms. Bonham Carter was pregnant in reality when she filmed Henry Vlll, 
>> hence the rather odd costume shape.
>>
>> Suzi
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] knit stockings
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Hi Ann,
Oh thanks for your reply. I am only at the beginning, and the first rows 
surely are difficult to make, but i made 2 rows now, and it gets much 
better.
Ill start to make pearl pattern in stead of ribs, and then it will be easy 
with the rest.
I use a DMC embroidery floss to knit the stockings with.

Thanks

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ann Catelli" <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 2:54 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] knit stockings


>
>
> --- Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> wrote:
>
>> I tryed to knit silk stockings. But the silk thread
>> was two slippery, i lost
>> the stitches all the time.
>> Now i have tryed with cotton thread, and its a
>> little easyer for me.
>> I made a sampler and it shows that i use 5 stitches
>> to each cm. This meens
>> that i have to start with 200 stitches at the top.
>> Would this be two coarse for a gentlemans stockings?
>>
>> Bjarne
>
> Ok, that translates to 12.5 sts/inch--I believe that
> is in the range for good stockings in the eighteenth
> century.
>
> You may also wish to try, if you are not allergic, a
> fine worsted-prep yarn for your stockings.  Use a
> similar size thread of wool that you have been of
> cotton.
> Wool is much, much, much nicer to knit than cotton or
> silk.
>
> And 40 cm is only about 16 inches (to respond to
> another poster), so that is not ridiculous.
> If you knit [wool] stockings to the measurement of
> your leg, they will be all baggy & not sleek and
> smooth.
>
> I've heard between 75% and 90% of your leg
> measurement, but 100% at the ankles for ease to don
> the stocking.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Ann in CT
>
>
>
> __________________________________________
> Yahoo! DSL - Something to write home about.
> Just $16.99/mo. or less.
> dsl.yahoo.com
>
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] re:knit stockings
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 20:23:11 +0100
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Hi Kelly,
This was very generous of you to give your knolledge with this. May i ask 
where did you buy your knitted material.
I dont think i would be able to get it here in Denmark.
There is a pattern in Costume Closeup from Colonial Williamsburg i could 
use.
Dont mind if it is cotton knit, it is better than my nylon ballet danse 
tricot pans i use............. laughs.............

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "KELLY" <robinandkellydorman@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 6:05 PM
Subject: [h-cost] re:knit stockings


Have you considered doing a "cut and sewn" stocking?

 I have used the pattern from Kanniks Korner (www.kannikskorner.com 
#KK-6001 "Stockings, Pockets, Mitts) with great success using both cotton 
and wool knit fabric. I've not yet found an appropriate silk knit fabric, 
however, this fall when unpacking my winter clothes, I had an "Aha!!" 
moment - and am considering utilizing the fabric in a pair of silk long 
johns; they are not quite a pure white, but pretty close.

By doing some simple customizing of the pattern, you can have perfectly 
fitting stockings; no more baggy ankles or heels half way up the calf. An 
example can be seen on website at www.backwardglances.net under Civil War 
items.

(See Carolann - your class has stuck with me!!! And I have accumulated a 
great deal of supporting documentation that this type of stockings is by far 
the most common for our time period)

And of course, you could do some fabulous clockwork before assembling them.

Kelly Dorman
Backward Glances
www.backwardglances.net
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Italian Underwear
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Huh, so where did the drawers originate, then? Italy? Moorish women wore pants under their dresses; was it adapted from them, maybe?
 
And you're probably right about warmth being a matter of perspective (I grew up in South Texas, about a day's drive from the tropics), but I also know it was supposed to be colder back then. 
 
Tea Rose
 
 
Message: 12
Date: Mon, 09 Jan 2006 01:49:06 -0600
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Italian Underwear
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Drawers arrived in England during Elizabeth's reign but were considered 
novelties and "foreign."  They weren't adopted as regular wear until 
later.  I've lived in England (as well as Canada and the US) and 
didn't find it that cold at all, so I think it is all a matter of 
perspective.  
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Subject: [h-cost] Seriously off topic (sorry) stolen re-enactment kit
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Apologies for going completely o-t, but I hope nobody (especially those 
involved) will mind me posting this here - am trying to spread the word as far as 
possible as quickly as possible.

A garage used as a store by some members of Conquest has been raided, with 
some kit being stolen and the rest torched (burnt to ashes, for those not 
familiar with English slang).

As I understand it, of the stuff in the garage, one tunic survived.  
Everything else is gone.  This is thousands and thousands of pounds worth of kit which 
took decades to assemble.

A full list of the stolen kit can be seen here 
http://livinghistory.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1651
Please keep an eye out for any of the kit that will presumably at some point 
be for sale.

Thanks

Debs
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] PBS Henry VIII
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In a message dated 1/9/2006 1:48:56 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

Doesn't  explain the Indian saree silks though, does it?



****************
 
 
LOL
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Hi Elizabeth,
I have considered i could post a picture with me in the copy of Gustav III's 
wedding suit i made in pale blue duchesse satin. But i never got a propper 
photo of it.
I will propose to Leif and beg him to make me a picture next weekend.
But another story is that pale blue is not my colour, but never 
mind............

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: <AmIPeriodorNot@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 12:25 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Reveal your costumes to the world at Am I Period or Not


> Good evening all,
> Many of the costumers out there will already have heard about Am I Period 
> or Not but recently the flow of new photo submissions has slowed to a 
> trickle, so for those who have never heard of it or those who have new 
> photos (or even new outfits) please consider submitting a photo of your 
> work and enjoy the virtual adulation of people all across the globe. Those 
> who have a new outfit for 12th night celebrations remember to take a 
> camera with you and ask somebody to get your photo.
> If you have a photo of a costume you have made, from any period of 
> history, please consider submitting it to Am I Period Or Not (aka AIPON) 
> http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/. The 16th century costumers still 
> seem to be the most productive set (with more photos submitted than any 
> other era), with the 19th century a close second. But there are so many 
> other styles out there and it would be fabulous if we could see what 
> costumers have been doing in all eras (even ones that never really existed 
> like Lord of the Rings)
> Please pass this on to anybody you think would be interested, after all 
> it's much quicker and simpler to email a photo to us (see 
> http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/photos.htm for submission rules) 
> than setting up your own webpage (even if you do have your own webpage you 
> can always put photos of your work on AIPON and include a link to your 
> webpage for more info).
> If you are unfamiliar with the concept here's a brief summary: People send
> in photos of the historical costumes they've made, the photos are loaded
> onto a website where people can view them, vote on how period accurate 
> they
> are and leave comments. While the original site was for pre 1600 costume 
> only The New Am I Period Or Not website covers the fashions of any era you 
> like, from the first civilisations to the day before yesterday (plus 
> imaginary eras).
> I hope to see a flood of new and interesting photos in response to this 
> email.
> Elizabeth
> --------------------------------------------
> Elizabeth Walpole
> Canberra Australia
> ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
> http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 


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From: Mia Dappert <snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: knitting stockings
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And try knitting them on circular needles.  It makes a world of difference.  THat silk is impossible to knit on straight doupble pointed needles.  THey make circular needles  in american 000 and 0.  Using two circular needles to knit one stocking or even two at a time is a technique suggested to me by a knitting group that I sometimes go to.  Right now my silk and wool stocking experiment is on hold because the circular 000 I have is too large for the diameter of the stocking right now.  I need another needle, but several projects and the holidays have interferred.
   
  And someone does make silk knit and sell it on the web, its jersey I think.  I will have to look for my bookmark. G Street in MD/VA might even have some yardage, but it's been years since I've been there 
   
  Making a pair of silk 18c stockings is on my list.  
   
  Mia in Charlottetowne, NC

		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] PBS Henry VIII
To: h-costume@indra.com
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In a message dated 1/9/2006 2:15:56 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sylvia@ntw.net writes:

Why on  earth would they cast a woman who was that pregnant at the time 
of  filming?  Did they think no one would notice her odd  shape?

Sylrog



*********************
 
Well, she may not have been [or didn't tell anyone she was] pregnant when  
the contracts were signed. She may be involved with more than just acting in the 
 show [like producing it or putting up money somehow]. And, yes, no one may a 
 cared anyway.
 
Welcome to the entertainment industry!
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] PBS Henry VIII
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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 No, it doesn't explain the Indian sari silks(well, Henry as a monarch,
especially once ultra wealthy Wolsey crashed and burned, could import
anything he wanted, even things that didn't exist at the time).  It is
all production values anyway and even in big budget Hollywood films,
sets and costumes are just a small fraction of the budget. The main
thing has always been to put what looks good onscreen to the majority of
the audience viewing the drama, not historical accuracy.  At least
today's costumers aren't further limited by the old Hays code, just
trying to keep some reasonable accuracy or any at all with the pressures
of budget, the present aesthetic and whatever the director's vision is.

I just kept waiting and wondering what went on during that rainy
jousting scene.  Did they plan to endanger humans and horses jousting in
the rain, was it planned that way, or was the shooting schedule so tight
that even when the English weather wasn't cooperating, they had to shoot
rain and mud or not?

Cindy Abel

 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: knitting stockings
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> Using two circular needles to knit one stocking or even two at a time
> is a technique suggested to me by a knitting group that I sometimes go to.

How do you knit two stockings at the same time?

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The site is called Cheeptrims (2 e's), www.cheeptrims.com.
They sell a lot of drek, but there are some real gems in there as well. They're really cheap (2 gross of buttons for $3.00 for example). The last time I ordered from them (last April?) they sold to anyone and the minimum was $60. Sadly it looks like that's changed. 

Wendy
www.hecate.ca/emma/




 --- On Sun 01/08, Sue < sue@victorianmillinery.com > wrote:
From: Sue [mailto: sue@victorianmillinery.com]
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2006 19:31:51 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims

What company are you all talking about?<br>Sue<br>----- Original Message ----- <br>From: "Joan Jurancich" <joanmj@surewest.net><br>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com><br>Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 1:08 PM<br>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims<br><br><br>> Maybe it's because I live in California, the state where the business <br>> is located.  All I know is that I was told on the phone that they <br>> only sell wholesale and would not fill my order.  It's annoying since <br>> they are the only source of (inexpensive) cotton twill tape I have <br>> found.  Fortunately, a 100-yard roll of 1/2-inch twill tape (or <br>> 250-yard in narrower sizes)  last a long time.<br>> <br>> And they must have increased their minimum order amount again.  It <br>> was $60 when I ordered in June 2005.<br>> <br>> Joan<br>> <br>> At 05:51 AM 1/8/2006, you wrote:<br>>>Very curious! I have been ordering from them for years and have never had<br>>>the problem you speak 
of.<br>>><br>>>Kathleen<br>>><br>>>----- Original Message -----<br>>>From: "Joan Jurancich" <joanmj@surewest.net><br>>>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com><br>>>Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 2:54 AM<br>>>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims<br>>><br>>><br>>> > At 11:19 PM 1/7/2006, you wrote:<br>>> > >>Catching up here.<br>>> > >><br>>> > >>They only sell wholesale, so unless you have a resale number you<br>>> > >>won't be able to use them (recent personal<br>>> > >>experience).  Fortunately, I have a friend with a resale number and<br>>> > >>I just pay him the wholesale plus state sales tax and everything is<br>>>fine.<br>>> > >><br>>> > >><br>>> > >>Joan Jurancich<br>>> > >>joanmj@surewest.net<br>>> > ><br>>> > >I've ordered from them fairly recently (Aug) and didn't need a<br>>> > >resale number.  I have one, but they didn't ask for it.<br>>> > ><br>>> > >Melusine<br>>> ><br>>> > My experience in June was that they simply never filled my order,<br>>> > even though 
they sent me a confirmatory email.  Then, nothing.  I had<br>>> > to call them to find out what had happened.  And they still did not<br>>> > fill my order.<br>>> ><br>>> ><br>>> > Joan Jurancich<br>>> > joanmj@surewest.net<br>> <br>> _______________________________________________<br>> h-costume mailing list<br>> h-costume@mail.indra.com<br>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<br><br>_______________________________________________<br>h-costume mailing list<br>h-costume@mail.indra.com<br>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<br>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] PBS Henry VIII
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nope, nore does it explain the silver lame

Kelly
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 7:32 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] PBS Henry VIII


>
>
>>>Ms. Bonham Carter was pregnant in reality when she filmed Henry Vlll, 
>>>hence the rather odd costume shape.
>>>
>>>Suzi
>
>>Aaaaahhhhhhh HA!( to quote a comercial on the local french network right 
>>now)
>>Thanks for the insight, it explains a lot!
>>Kelly
>
>
> Doesn't explain the Indian saree silks though, does it?
>
> Suzi
>
>>>>I don't  think I've ever seen it
>>>>pooch out in front at the waist the way it does on  Ms. Bonham Carter.
>>>>I know there are a lot of English Renaissance  experts on this list who
>>>>can advise if this is correct or does it have  something to do with the
>>>>actress's own shape (on the busty  side)?
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] re:knit stockings
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Kelly said,
> An example can be seen on website at www.backwardglances.net under
> Civil War items.
> (See Carolann - your class has stuck with me!!! And I have accumulated a
> great deal of supporting documentation that this type of stockings is by
> far the most common for our time period)

     Mid-19th century is different than 18thC.  From what I can tell,
stockings cut from knit yardgoods were only in use for a short time. 
If you have infrmation about this for 19thC, I am very curious!  From
what I can tell, cut and sewn was not at all common for the 19thC.

     The 1790s saw some very complex knit patterns in use that could be
made "sideways" from the way stockings were normally frame knit. 
Also around that time was the use of the thread carrier, which made
it faster (and cheaper) to knit yardgoods rather than the pieces knit
to shape.  "Cut ups" were a very cheap stocking, and their economic
impact was the cause of Luddism of 1812, and the smashing of stocking
frames by people who were put out of work.

     As machinery developed further, stockings were still knit to shape
and also the circular knitter was used (examples are seen from the
1840s, with darts to shape them).

     The cut & sewn stockings of the 18thC (Bjarne's era) were actually
made from woven cloth.

     Making stockings from silk knit fabric (for 18thC) is a good fake,
however the seam allowances need to be treated carefully.  The
1790-1810 cut-ups did not last long and were considered to be poor
quality goods because of this.

     I did find a decent silk knit in New York a few years back,
unfortunately not in white.  I managed to use color remover on a few
of the pastels to some limited success, and it could of course be
dyed darker colors.

      Having examined quite a few 18th frame knit stockings, I am picky
about the fabric.  Most modern knits are made to be very stretchy,
and the 18thC stockings are not.  There are silk jersey knits out
there, but I only found the one that was not very stretchy.

Bjarne said,
> There is a pattern in Costume Closeup from Colonial Williamsburg I could
> use.

     That's from a frame knit silk stocking, and the pattern was done
while on the frame as the stocking was knitted.  It can be faked with
a duplicate stitch.  That technique fell out of use around 1750,
which is why I asked what era you were aiming for.

     It all comes down to whether the stockings are supposed to be
specific to an era or appropriate to a particular event or oufit, and
exactly how particular and detailed anyone wants to be about it.

     -Carol

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Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 18:22:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: knitting stockings
From: aquazoo@patriot.net
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> How do you knit two stockings at the same time?

     One inside the other, with two sets of stitches (every other stitch
from the other sock) on your needles and two yarn sources.  With my
luck I would mess up and knit them together at some point. :-)  But I
have heard of this as a "normal" way to knit socks.

     Something I did once was to have two socks going on two sets of
needles.  I would knit one row around to the center back, then do the
same with the other stocking, and back and forth like that.  I was
playing with a diamond pattern and increases/decreases at the same
time, so it was the only way to maintain a bit of sanity.

     -Carol

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims
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I live in Winnipeg, Canada and they had no qualms about mailing out of the States.

Wendy
www.hecate.ca/emma/


 --- On Sun 01/08, Sue < sue@victorianmillinery.com > wrote:
From: Sue [mailto: sue@victorianmillinery.com]
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2006 19:31:51 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims

What company are you all talking about?<br>Sue<br>----- Original Message ----- <br>From: "Joan Jurancich" <joanmj@surewest.net><br>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com><br>Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 1:08 PM<br>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims<br><br><br>> Maybe it's because I live in California, the state where the business <br>> is located.  All I know is that I was told on the phone that they <br>> only sell wholesale and would not fill my order.  It's annoying since <br>> they are the only source of (inexpensive) cotton twill tape I have <br>> found.  Fortunately, a 100-yard roll of 1/2-inch twill tape (or <br>> 250-yard in narrower sizes)  last a long time.<br>> <br>> And they must have increased their minimum order amount again.  It <br>> was $60 when I ordered in June 2005.<br>> <br>> Joan<br>> <br>> At 05:51 AM 1/8/2006, you wrote:<br>>>Very curious! I have been ordering from them for years and have never had<br>>>the problem you speak 
of.<br>>><br>>>Kathleen<br>>><br>>>----- Original Message -----<br>>>From: "Joan Jurancich" <joanmj@surewest.net><br>>>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com><br>>>Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 2:54 AM<br>>>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims<br>>><br>>><br>>> > At 11:19 PM 1/7/2006, you wrote:<br>>> > >>Catching up here.<br>>> > >><br>>> > >>They only sell wholesale, so unless you have a resale number you<br>>> > >>won't be able to use them (recent personal<br>>> > >>experience).  Fortunately, I have a friend with a resale number and<br>>> > >>I just pay him the wholesale plus state sales tax and everything is<br>>>fine.<br>>> > >><br>>> > >><br>>> > >>Joan Jurancich<br>>> > >>joanmj@surewest.net<br>>> > ><br>>> > >I've ordered from them fairly recently (Aug) and didn't need a<br>>> > >resale number.  I have one, but they didn't ask for it.<br>>> > ><br>>> > >Melusine<br>>> ><br>>> > My experience in June was that they simply never filled my order,<br>>> > even though 
they sent me a confirmatory email.  Then, nothing.  I had<br>>> > to call them to find out what had happened.  And they still did not<br>>> > fill my order.<br>>> ><br>>> ><br>>> > Joan Jurancich<br>>> > joanmj@surewest.net<br>> <br>> _______________________________________________<br>> h-costume mailing list<br>> h-costume@mail.indra.com<br>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<br><br>_______________________________________________<br>h-costume mailing list<br>h-costume@mail.indra.com<br>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<br>

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Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 18:16:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Stolen Items-question
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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I was thinking about Toni Whyte's costume and jewelry being stolen and it
is a terrible thing to have happen.  It has been cross-posted to almost
every list I am on so the word is definitely getting out.

My question is....what is one supposed to do if they find an item on ebay
or for sale somewhere?  How can the item be recovered safely and who are
you supposed to tell?

I am sure someone out there has had experience with this--please share
your knowledge!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 20:19:10 -0600
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another period program on tv
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> OPINION ALERT!
> Well, I watched it tonight - I thought the women's costuming was 10x 
> worse than the men's (as usual) with rather odd headdresses in 
> particular.  In my opinion it greatly resembled the 19th century 
> view 
> of the 16th century - it was to Henry and his wives what many in the  
> 19th century thought of "poor Mary Queen of Scots" and "the evil 
> Queen Elizabeth" - their ideas (not mine!!!!).  I found it to be 
> rather tabloid feeling in its approach to the entire thing, and 
> while 
> strictly correct in facts, attributed a lot of emotions that I think  
> they would be hard pressed to document.  Catherine of Aragon came 
> across as the wronged noble, almost saintly queen, and they stated 
> outright that Henry went mad as he got older!  

They aren't the only one, I've got a book that "proves" Henry was
suffering from neurosyphilis* by the time he decided to, er, "break up"
with Anne.  It's pretty flimsy evidence (supposedly Elizabeth's line
about being a "barren stock" after James was born meant she didn't
menstruate, so obviously she was suffering from inherited syphilis), only
remotely plausible because Henry wasn't exactly faithful to his spouses
at a time when there wasn't any way to prevent STDs.

Leah

*Or tertiary syphilis, I've seen both terms -- what happens when the
syphilis spirochete starts damaging your brain.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: knitting stockings
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There are apparently several very inventive methods, but the one I've heard
of most often involves creating a loop of some sort in the cable for the
circular needle--there are actually books available on the technique, here
in the U.S.  Not something I've tried (I'm plenty happy knitting mine one at
a time with DPNs), but I've heard of them.  You could probably find
something online pretty easily.  I just googled for "magic loop" and
"knitting," and came up with these links, among many:
http://www.az.com/~andrade/knit/mloop.html
http://www.knitaddicted.com/files/MagicLoop.pdf

Hope that gives you some idea of what the technique is....
--Sue in Montana


----- Original Message -----
From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 2:01 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: knitting stockings


> > Using two circular needles to knit one stocking or even two at a time
> > is a technique suggested to me by a knitting group that I sometimes go
to.
>
> How do you knit two stockings at the same time?


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	<1661.67.188.164.116.1136859419.squirrel@webmail.inreach.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Stolen Items-question
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 23:01:23 -0500
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If is shows up on eBay contact their customer serivce. To sell items on eBay 
you can have customer protection and use their policies against the 
perpuratrator. They will end any auction if it is suspected as stolen 
property. They will also notify the police. Each account that sells on eBay 
MUST have a bank account. Someone had to list one to place an auction on 
eBay. I'm sure they will try to help recover the costume IF it shows up on 
line. I'd write and ask their customer serivce department.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 9:16 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Stolen Items-question


>I was thinking about Toni Whyte's costume and jewelry being stolen and it
> is a terrible thing to have happen.  It has been cross-posted to almost
> every list I am on so the word is definitely getting out.
>
> My question is....what is one supposed to do if they find an item on ebay
> or for sale somewhere?  How can the item be recovered safely and who are
> you supposed to tell?
>
> I am sure someone out there has had experience with this--please share
> your knowledge!
>
> Diana
>
> www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
> "Everything for the Costumer"
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> I just googled for "magic loop" and
> "knitting," and came up with these links, among many:
> http://www.az.com/~andrade/knit/mloop.html
> http://www.knitaddicted.com/files/MagicLoop.pdf

Hm. Thanks. It doesn't look practical.

I was hoping it would be something I would want to use, to avoid my
tendency of getting bored after I've understood how to do something
(i.e. I'd love to knit one stocking, but would never finish the second
because I've already done it and would prefer moving to something else
- knitting both at the same time would have solved the problem).

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From: Alex Doyle <garbaholic@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: costume gallery
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Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:
    Alex,

The link I gave, http://www.costumegallery.com/1838/plates/cleaning.html , 
shows the process of how we clean the images. We have a link on the front 
page of Library.

What time frame are you in? 
   
  

Ah, excellant then.  I do 16th century primarily, sometimes 14th century.  I've toyed with the idea of doing other eras, but I really feel if I can't wear it somewhere, it's not practical for me to make.  And I have so much on my plate right now, that finding another group to play with is right out.  There are times when I'm very tempted, but I try not to stray too much.
   
  alex
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> Date:  Fri, 6 Jan 2006 07:48:17 -0500 (EST)
> From: Kathy Page  <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
> Subject: [h-cost] Italian  Underwear
>
> I am gearing up for my visit to the Met to document
> their 16th century  Sicilian Bride underpinning
> collection and a pair of chopines.
> This delay  has proven fortuitous in that the curator,
> knowing how much we are trying to  cover in a short
> period of time, gave us an additional 2 hours with  the
> collection, totalling 6 hours of delerious pleasure
> with 2 pairs of  drawers, 2 chemises, a shirt, a pair
> of stockings and a pair of chopines.

On Jan 8, 2006, at 9:53 PM, TeaRoseS@aol.com wrote:

> Um, I have a rank newbie question. I was always told that ladies  
> didn't  wear
> drawers in this period. Is that a myth, or a regional thing,  
> possibly? I
> usually do English.
>
> And I've always suspected that it couldn't be true. I've BEEN to  
> England.  It
> gets COLD there.
>
> Thanks for your forbearance,
> Tea Rose
>

My observation, in my research on this general topic, is that logic  
and practicality are absolutely no guide to the attitudes of a given  
culture at a given period towards women and underpants.  Women either  
wore them or didn't wear them because it was the appropriate thing to  
do in their social context and not for any other objective reason.

Heather

--
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net
http://www.heatherrosejones.com
LJ:hrj


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another period program on tv
References: <20060109.201911.1208.2.LLWatts@juno.com>
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>
>
>They aren't the only one, I've got a book that "proves" Henry was
>suffering from neurosyphilis* by the time he decided to, er, "break up"
>with Anne.  It's pretty flimsy evidence (supposedly Elizabeth's line
>about being a "barren stock" after James was born meant she didn't
>menstruate, so obviously she was suffering from inherited syphilis), only
>remotely plausible because Henry wasn't exactly faithful to his spouses
>at a time when there wasn't any way to prevent STDs.
>
>Leah
>
>*Or tertiary syphilis, I've seen both terms -- what happens when the
>syphilis spirochete starts damaging your brain.
>
Have you also read the theory that one reason for the development of the 
codpiece was to help serve as a pouch to disguise (or prevent staining 
on clothing by) external treatments for the rashes caused by syphilis?
 
What's the name of your book - I'd like to keep an eye out for it.  I do 
love the genre of diagnosing past medical mysteries.

-- 
Elinor Salter

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Subject: [h-cost] Sewing Classes in Canberra, Australia
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Hi, starting in February, Aylwen Garden be teaching some daytime sewing 
classes for women through the Brain Gym in Woden, Canberra.

Cost per 8 week class is $150, with materials extra (ie, light linen). 
Benefit of this - you are taken through everything, and you work together in a social environment. 
Please let Aylwen know asap if you're interested. Numbers are limited. 
Venue: 87 Schlich Street, Yarralumla
Times: 9:30am - 12pm. 

Weds: Historical Sewing Projects - Renaissance Ladies Underwear - smock, partlet & cap and an introduction to blackwork embroidery. Materials cost extra.
Friday: Historical Sewing Projects - Regency Ladies Underwear - bodiced petticoat, pantalets and chemisette. Materials cost extra.

Regards, Aylwen
aylwen@earthlydelights.com.au

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Is there anyone else out there who hasn't had their Christmas Santa swap prezzie yet, or is it just me?  With it now being a couple of weeks past Christmas, I think mine must have disappeared into the postal service's black hole rather than just being delayed.
   
  Freyalyn in West Yorkshire, England

		
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I did not get mine either. I am in Germany.

Michaela

>Is there anyone else out there who hasn't had their Christmas Santa swap 
>prezzie yet, or is it just me?  With it now being a couple of weeks past 
>Christmas, I think mine must have disappeared into the postal service's black 
>hole rather than just being delayed.
>   
>  Freyalyn in West Yorkshire, England
>
>		
>---------------------------------
>Yahoo! Photos – Showcase holiday pictures in hardcover
> Photo Books. You design it and we’ll bind it!
>_______________________________________________
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>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 22:10:50 +1100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Sharon Nevin <sharon.nevin@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: AW: [h-cost] Christmas Santa Swap
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Perhaps it would be best for people  to email Dawn directly as she has the 
master list of who was suppose to send to who and also has all the contact 
details and would therefore able to help?

Sharon Nevin

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Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 13:46:00 +0000
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Italian Underwear
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X-Miltered: at demeter with ID 43C3BAE2.000 by Joe's j-chkmail (http://j-chkmail.ensmp.fr)!

I found it hard to believe that women used not to wear drawers until I saw Rowlandson's "Exhibition Stare-Case" - admittedly not 16th century, but... http://www.wisc.edu/english/tkelley/NASSR/images/2Rowlandsonstare2.jpg 
No doubt in cold weather they put on extra petticoats. After all, underwear was simply a washable lining to your outer clothes; if you didn't wear breeches, you didn't need drawers.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> heather.jones@earthlink.net 10/01/2006 06:26 >>>

On Jan 8, 2006, at 9:53 PM, TeaRoseS@aol.com wrote:

> Um, I have a rank newbie question. I was always told that ladies  
> didn't  wear
> drawers in this period. Is that a myth, or a regional thing,  
> possibly? I
> usually do English.
>
> And I've always suspected that it couldn't be true. I've BEEN to  
> England.  It
> gets COLD there.
>
> Thanks for your forbearance,
> Tea Rose
>

My observation, in my research on this general topic, is that logic  
and practicality are absolutely no guide to the attitudes of a given  
culture at a given period towards women and underpants.  Women either  
wore them or didn't wear them because it was the appropriate thing to  
do in their social context and not for any other objective reason.

Heather

--
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net 
http://www.heatherrosejones.com 
LJ:hrj


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References: <200601091921.k09JKff2037969@net.indra.com><20060109200948.73450.qmail@web30101.mail.mud.yahoo.com><16a2233a0601091301j339e802as@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: knitting stockings
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 09:14:34 -0500
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X-Miltered: at demeter with ID 43C3C166.004 by Joe's j-chkmail (http://j-chkmail.ensmp.fr)!

I have a friend who "does" 18th Century.  She is currently knitting
stockings on a wooden frame about 8" diameter.  This is set with wooden pegs
and the fiber is worked in much the same manner as the Knitty-knobby one
might use to make cording.  She says that one can even turn a heel!!

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 10:13 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: knitting stockings


> There are apparently several very inventive methods, but the one I've
heard
> of most often involves creating a loop of some sort in the cable for the
> circular needle--there are actually books available on the technique, here
> in the U.S.  Not something I've tried (I'm plenty happy knitting mine one
at
> a time with DPNs), but I've heard of them.  You could probably find
> something online pretty easily.  I just googled for "magic loop" and
> "knitting," and came up with these links, among many:
> http://www.az.com/~andrade/knit/mloop.html
> http://www.knitaddicted.com/files/MagicLoop.pdf
>
> Hope that gives you some idea of what the technique is....
> --Sue in Montana
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin@gmail.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 2:01 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: knitting stockings
>
>
> > > Using two circular needles to knit one stocking or even two at a time
> > > is a technique suggested to me by a knitting group that I sometimes go
> to.
> >
> > How do you knit two stockings at the same time?
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: Mia Dappert <snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:stockings/two socks at same time
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X-Miltered: at demeter with ID 43C3C396.005 by Joe's j-chkmail (http://j-chkmail.ensmp.fr)!

I just finished a pair of knit from the toe up/ knit two at a time socks on two circular needles.  While it was an intersting challenge, I don't think I'll do it that way again.  Didn't like the toe and didn't like the binding off at the end of the cuff.  I did like the use of two circular needles though
   
  I've used cotton jersey sheets to good effect in the constuction of 18c stockings (hose?).. They are a bit more stable and a bit less stetchy and while they don't last too to long, they are cheep.  Truly period?  probably not, but I'm one of the one's that has to be very careful of their feet and legs.  I can control the size better with hand done stockings than with store bought.  Needs must when the devil drives, especially on tender feet.  And no more blisters (or at leat LESS blisters)
   
  Now i'll have to go look at the historic knit site, just what I need, another distr4actions ah well, it's wehat makes life intersting.
   
  Mia in Charlotte NC
   
   

		
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Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 12:15:56 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Another period program on tv
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Actually I saw that codpiece info also, and it was written , I believe, by a
doctor, not a costume historian. If I can find it, I will post a link.
Dame Catriona MacDuff

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Elinor Salter
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 1:42 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another period program on tv


>
>
>They aren't the only one, I've got a book that "proves" Henry was
>suffering from neurosyphilis* by the time he decided to, er, "break up"
>with Anne.  It's pretty flimsy evidence (supposedly Elizabeth's line
>about being a "barren stock" after James was born meant she didn't
>menstruate, so obviously she was suffering from inherited syphilis), only
>remotely plausible because Henry wasn't exactly faithful to his spouses
>at a time when there wasn't any way to prevent STDs.
>
>Leah
>
>*Or tertiary syphilis, I've seen both terms -- what happens when the
>syphilis spirochete starts damaging your brain.
>
Have you also read the theory that one reason for the development of the
codpiece was to help serve as a pouch to disguise (or prevent staining
on clothing by) external treatments for the rashes caused by syphilis?

What's the name of your book - I'd like to keep an eye out for it.  I do
love the genre of diagnosing past medical mysteries.

--
Elinor Salter

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Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 12:23:05 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Italian Underwear
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This leads me to ask, and please do not take offense anyone... How did 16th
women deal with their monthly courses without underpants? Rags, I know, but
how were they held up? This part of clothing never seems to be dealt with,
though the Costume Society of America  ("Dress") once had an article on 19th
C. inovations.

Dame Catriona MacDuff
Interested in 16th C. womens issues

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Kate M Bunting
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 8:46 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Italian Underwear


I found it hard to believe that women used not to wear drawers until I saw
Rowlandson's "Exhibition Stare-Case" - admittedly not 16th century, but...
http://www.wisc.edu/english/tkelley/NASSR/images/2Rowlandsonstare2.jpg
No doubt in cold weather they put on extra petticoats. After all, underwear
was simply a washable lining to your outer clothes; if you didn't wear
breeches, you didn't need drawers.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> heather.jones@earthlink.net 10/01/2006 06:26 >>>

On Jan 8, 2006, at 9:53 PM, TeaRoseS@aol.com wrote:

> Um, I have a rank newbie question. I was always told that ladies
> didn't  wear
> drawers in this period. Is that a myth, or a regional thing,
> possibly? I
> usually do English.
>
> And I've always suspected that it couldn't be true. I've BEEN to
> England.  It
> gets COLD there.
>
> Thanks for your forbearance,
> Tea Rose
>

My observation, in my research on this general topic, is that logic
and practicality are absolutely no guide to the attitudes of a given
culture at a given period towards women and underpants.  Women either
wore them or didn't wear them because it was the appropriate thing to
do in their social context and not for any other objective reason.

Heather

--
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net
http://www.heatherrosejones.com
LJ:hrj


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From: jordana robinson <mylaar@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] victorian millinery - faux feathers from silk ribbons?
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a few years ago i took an accessory design class which had a millinery
component.  when we were learning how to make silk flowers, the
teacher brought in a reprint of a victorian (at least i think, but
possibly 1920s) millinery trimmings manual that included directions on
how to make realistic faux feathers out of silk ribbon.

has anybody on the list heard of anything like this?  i've been unable
to track down that millinery manual or any other reference to making
silk feathers online.  i'd like to eventually make a german
renaissance gown, accessorized with the big foofy hat, but i'd like to
avoid trimming the hat with actual bird feathers due to personal
ethical concerns.

thanks,

jordana

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: [h-cost] medieval quote on underwear
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I got "The Letters of Abelard and Heloise" for Christmas,  and was 
interested to come across this quote today.  Heloise is asking Abelard 
to draw up a rule for her convent, pointing out that the existing 
monastic Rule of St Benedict makes no provision for nuns, so they cannot 
follow it properly.  And the first example she cites is:

"Leaving aside for the moment the other articles of the Rule;  how can 
women be concerned with what is written there about cowls, drawers or 
scapulars?  Or indeed, with tunics or woollen garments worn next to the 
skin, when the monthly purging of their superfluous humours must avoid 
such things?"

Of course, this is a 1970s translation of medieval latin clothing terms, 
but I think we can probably rely on "drawers" and "woollen garments". 
Caution probably required with "tunics" ;-)

Jean




Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com> wrote
>Greetings!
>
>Welcome to the 16th century, a fun and exciting place. <G>  Drawers 
>arrived in England during Elizabeth's reign but were considered 
>novelties and "foreign."  They weren't adopted as regular wear until 
>later.  I've lived in England (as well as Canada and the US) and didn't 
>find it that cold at all, so I think it is all a matter of perspective. 
>Certainly once you have all the correct layers on, drawers aren't going 
>to make much difference except for possibly during activities like 
>horseback riding.  However, having seen 16th century sidesaddles 
>(rather odd looking contraptions - one was round and perfectly flat 
>with a peg sticking up for the leg to hook over) even then the drawers 
>would be rather immaterial.
>
>Cheers,
>Danielle
>
>At 11:53 PM 1/8/2006, you wrote:
>>Um, I have a rank newbie question. I was always told that ladies didn't  wear
>>drawers in this period. Is that a myth, or a regional thing, possibly? I
>>usually do English.
>>
>>And I've always suspected that it couldn't be true. I've BEEN to England.  It
>>gets COLD there.
>>
>>Thanks for your forbearance,
>>Tea Rose
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: roscelinlimoges@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval quote on underwear
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 19:40:07 +0000
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But Danielle, I was under the impression with reading and the History Channel, that during the Medieval and Renaissance periods Europe was going through what historians/scientists considered a "mini Ice Age".  Plus, my finace' who was  stationed in Europe has mentioned that when he was involved with Ren faires and the like that the castles were quite chilly.

Since, I am a newbie when it comes to period underwear.  What did women do during their monthly cycles?  And why was it more common for men to wear underwear and not women?  

I betcha I'm going to be quite embarassed by the obvious reasons.  :-)

Roscelin

> Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com> wrote
> >Greetings!
> >
> >Welcome to the 16th century, a fun and exciting place. <G>  Drawers 
> >arrived in England during Elizabeth's reign but were considered 
> >novelties and "foreign."  They weren't adopted as regular wear until 
> >later.  I've lived in England (as well as Canada and the US) and didn't 
> >find it that cold at all, so I think it is all a matter of perspective. 
> >Certainly once you have all the correct layers on, drawers aren't going 
> >to make much difference except for possibly during activities like 
> >horseback riding.  However, having seen 16th century sidesaddles 
> >(rather odd looking contraptions - one was round and perfectly flat 
> >with a peg sticking up for the leg to hook over) even then the drawers 
> >would be rather immaterial.
> >
> >Cheers,
> >Danielle
> >
> >At 11:53 PM 1/8/2006, you wrote:
> >>Um, I have a rank newbie question. I was always told that ladies didn't  wear
> >>drawers in this period. Is that a myth, or a regional thing, possibly? I
> >>usually do English.
> >>
> >>And I've always suspected that it couldn't be true. I've BEEN to England.  It
> >>gets COLD there.
> >>
> >>Thanks for your forbearance,
> >>Tea Rose
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> -- 
> Jean Waddie
> _______________________________________________
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> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Italian Underwear
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We don't really know - such information was too well known/too distasteful to be written down anywhere. Protection that sticks on to the underwear is a very recent development, however. Previously a belt arrangement was used, for which pants were not strictly necessary.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> monicaspence@optonline.net 10/01/2006 17:23 >>>
This leads me to ask, and please do not take offense anyone... How did 16th
women deal with their monthly courses without underpants? Rags, I know, but
how were they held up? This part of clothing never seems to be dealt with,
though the Costume Society of America  ("Dress") once had an article on 19th
C. inovations.

Dame Catriona MacDuff
Interested in 16th C. womens issues


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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On Tue, 10 Jan 2006, Kate M Bunting wrote:

> >>> monicaspence@optonline.net 10/01/2006 17:23 >>>

> This leads me to ask, and please do not take offense anyone... How did
> 16th women deal with their monthly courses without underpants? Rags, I
> know, but how were they held up?

> We don't really know - such information was too well known/too
> distasteful to be written down anywhere. Protection that sticks on to
> the underwear is a very recent development, however. Previously a belt
> arrangement was used, for which pants were not strictly necessary.

Self-stick came in when I was in high school. When I started needing
protection in the mid-1970s, we used belts, and belt-style pads
were still sold for many years after that.

There are occasional written references from the middle ages to menstrual
cloths (the one I recall was in the context of a nasty comparison of
someone/something as being as foul as one, but I'm afraid I read that
before I started keeping track of citations, so I don't recall where it
was). For someone who isn't starting from an assumption of the presence of
underwear, it's a no-brainer to assume the cloths were either tied up with
a diaper sort of arrangement or held in place via a belt. 

And in fact, Poul Norlund's team found the remnants of a sort of belt on
one of the female corpses in Herjolfsnes, Greenland. If I remember right
without hauling down the notes, it was an arrangement of linen (rag?) pad
within a piece of sealskin slung between the legs, which was held by a
linen cord around the hips -- sort of a string bikini. The information is
tucked into the medical section of the 1924 archaeological report, not
with the clothing, so is often overlooked by people who see and read only
the clothing section written by Norlund. I don't think it's mentioned at
all by Else Ostergard in Woven into the Earth.

The doctor writing the 1924 medical analysis concluded from the
deformities in the woman's bones that she might have been incontinent, and
deduced that the pad was thus an incontinence pad. Heather Rose Jones has
pointed out on this list (and I agree) that it could as easily have been a
menstrual pad, a possibility not mentioned at all by the doctor. Either
way, though, it shows that at least one medieval woman had a means for
catching fluids. (I find it particularly interesting that the people
preparing her body for burial did not remove the pad.)

(In case all that looks familiar, I cribbed most of it from a post I wrote
to this list in September 2004, the last time this came up. And that
wasn't the first time we talked about it!)

--Robin


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From: roscelinlimoges@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>, h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christmas Santa Swap
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 17:56:20 +0000
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    The gift I am supposed to send out is going out to my giftee late because I had a bad fall and screwed up my hand and arm (which is a lot better now).   Actually it will be going out this week.  Unfortunately, the gift is not to anyone in Europe.
     It would be nice if those who owe gifts to anyone contact Dawn, as I did, and let her know that there has been some sort of delay.

Roscelin


 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Freyalynn Close-Hainsworth <freyalynn@yahoo.com>
> Is there anyone else out there who hasn't had their Christmas Santa swap prezzie 
> yet, or is it just me?  With it now being a couple of weeks past Christmas, I 
> think mine must have disappeared into the postal service's black hole rather 
> than just being delayed.
>    
>   Freyalyn in West Yorkshire, England
> 
> 		
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! Photos – Showcase holiday pictures in hardcover
>  Photo Books. You design it and we’ll bind it!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval quote on underwear
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 16:36:34 -0400
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Up until recently...like the late 1960's, women didn't need underwear to 
deal with the products used during their cycles.  Belts and rags were the 
choice of the day.
Since skirts were worn by women, and their smocks, shifts, chemises were 
long enough to protect their dresses from any body dirt, along with 
petticoats, you don't really need underwear.

But then men didn't really wear much in the line of underwear for the most 
part either.  Their shirts would have been breeched up around their knarly 
bits to protect the inside of their breeches.

Weird practice though, to my modern eye...why would you give up wearing 
underwear?  Men were wearing braies very early on in history...why give them 
up?

Ahhh! Fashion...it's a fickle thing!
Kelly
> Since, I am a newbie when it comes to period underwear.  What did women do 
> during their monthly cycles?  And why was it more common for men to wear 
> underwear and not women?
>
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Hello - is anyone else missing messages? I've not seen
a message I posted two days ago and just got digest 26
after digest 24... 
Katherine

"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright


		
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From: Caroline <carolineebuckley@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval quote on underwear
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If you are pregnant or breastfeeding you are unlikely to have monthly
cycles.  Admitted women who are not sexually active won't be pregnant much
but once you take nuns out of the equasion most women wouldn't need sanitary
protection much during their life.

On 10/01/06, roscelinlimoges@comcast.net <roscelinlimoges@comcast.net>
wrote:
>
> But Danielle, I was under the impression with reading and the History
> Channel, that during the Medieval and Renaissance periods Europe was going
> through what historians/scientists considered a "mini Ice Age".  Plus, my
> finace' who was  stationed in Europe has mentioned that when he was involved
> with Ren faires and the like that the castles were quite chilly.
>
> Since, I am a newbie when it comes to period underwear.  What did women do
> during their monthly cycles?  And why was it more common for men to wear
> underwear and not women?
>
> I betcha I'm going to be quite embarassed by the obvious reasons.  :-)
>
> Roscelin
>
> > Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com> wrote
> > >Greetings!
> > >
> > >Welcome to the 16th century, a fun and exciting place. <G>  Drawers
> > >arrived in England during Elizabeth's reign but were considered
> > >novelties and "foreign."  They weren't adopted as regular wear until
> > >later.  I've lived in England (as well as Canada and the US) and didn't
> > >find it that cold at all, so I think it is all a matter of perspective.
> > >Certainly once you have all the correct layers on, drawers aren't going
> > >to make much difference except for possibly during activities like
> > >horseback riding.  However, having seen 16th century sidesaddles
> > >(rather odd looking contraptions - one was round and perfectly flat
> > >with a peg sticking up for the leg to hook over) even then the drawers
> > >would be rather immaterial.
> > >
> > >Cheers,
> > >Danielle
> > >
> > >At 11:53 PM 1/8/2006, you wrote:
> > >>Um, I have a rank newbie question. I was always told that ladies
> didn't  wear
> > >>drawers in this period. Is that a myth, or a regional thing, possibly?
> I
> > >>usually do English.
> > >>
> > >>And I've always suspected that it couldn't be true. I've BEEN to
> England.  It
> > >>gets COLD there.
> > >>
> > >>Thanks for your forbearance,
> > >>Tea Rose
> > >
> > >_______________________________________________
> > >h-costume mailing list
> > >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> > --
> > Jean Waddie
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



--
Caroline
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Dress Dummy ...
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> I'm wondering about how compressible that they are.  Will she 
> squish down indefinately with a corset?  Say, should I have 
> one that fits, and then lace her into it to *that* place 
> because on her it will tighten far more than it does on me?  
> I even wondered about making a couple of different shells -- 
> say one for the appropriate level of "squished-ness" for an 
> Italian -- because I generally don't wear a corset with those.

This replay is a little late, but I didn't notice anyone else answering, so here's my experience:

I have a Uniquely You dress dummy, and she doesn't compress well at all -- this may be due to the fact that I'm on the small end of the size dress dummy they suggest I buy. I have a great deal of trouble zipping up the sloper that compresses her into my modern shape - I needed my husband to help hold the sloper together while I zipped, and he didn't think we could do it! My corsets will not fit on top of her -- she doesn't have enough squish left. 

I've considered making a second sloper of me in a Victorian corset, just to try and see. The reason I haven't done so already is (1) I've lost weight and the form doesn't fit me at all anymore. (Sigh. It's a good thing, but sad when your garb don't fit no more). And (2) that the dress form's bust is so firm that I'm not convinced that I can move it into the proper corseted location. However, this is what I'd recommend trying in order to represent your different levels of squish :-). Do note, that if you leave one sloper on the dress form, after awhile the padding will squash into that shape, and won't "rebound" well.

Good luck and enjoy!
	-sunshine





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Hi! I didn't see anyone else answer this so I'm going to take a stab -- I just moved to Cleveland though, so I may not be the best person :-)

Unfortunately the Cleveland Museum of Art (which has a lovely armor collection) is mostly closed for the next 2 years :-(. They do have one (and only one) exhibit open right now - its on the Arts & Crafts movement of the 19th century. There is one "artistic" dress displayed (I can't remember if it's a day dress or a tea-dress) which has absolutely lovely embroidery. Unfortunately they don't put a mirror behind it, so you have to kind of crane your neck and risk setting off the "you're too close to the artifacts" alarm to see the back side. Overall the exhibit has some lovely furniture pieces - and some fab glasswork, but I was rather disappointed. They didn't put a lot of context around the items so I didn't learn much that I hadn't already known.

If you are interested in 20th century stuff the Case Western Reserve Museum had a lovely 20s exhibit. Very inspiring -- I scribbled all over my lunch bag - having forgotten my sketch book. I went a number of months ago, so they may be displaying something else, but they are always displaying _some_ fashion exhibit. Also the tour of the mid-late Victorian town house that is associated with their museum is great fun. :-) I can just imagine children sliding down the long wooden-floored hallway in "the children's wing" :-).

I've been dying to get to the Kent State costume museum, but I haven't done so yet... It's not directly in Cleveland, but half and hour to an hour outside. 

There are probably more textile-related places to see, but those are the only ones I know about so far. Oh, no, that's not true -- the CSA lists the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame as having textiles. But I haven't been there either, and I'm positive it's 20th century only :-)
	-sunshine


> I will be traveling to Cleveland, Ohio next week - any 
> suggestions for must visit fabric or bead stores, museums, etc?
>  I've been invited to give a talk for "Quester's" group there 
> by a friend; the title is "From Here to There and Back Again: 
> A Guide to Travel in Antebellum America". As I don't have a 
> "proper" travel gown, I plan to dress entirely 
> inappropriately, i.e.. too colorful, too high style, large 
> hoop, too much jewelry, too much hand baggage, etc
> 
> Thanks for any suggestions on places to visit, Kelly Dorman 
> Backward Glances www.backwardglances.net 


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: refitting smaller sizesRe: [h-cost] Dress Dummy ...
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 11:20:08 +1300
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> But so much easier to take in than let out, isn't it?

Not if you have changed shape or gone down more than a dress size:)

Your proportions change and often shoulders and armscyes are the hardest to
reshape after taking in elsewhere. It's often easier to make a new sloper
etc than refit an old one.

Last time I lost a lot of weight due to exercising and extremely restricted
calories I totally changed shape and my forn still reflects it. My hips got
narrower and my sholders broader. I really need to cut my dummy down and
reshape the hips and shoulders.

> Betsy, (with the same problem in the opposite direction, but resolved to
> remedy the situation this year!! Using Walking/archery/low-carbs so far)

Heh, I just rely too much on bread as a protein substitute. As a vegetarian
I find protein sources either too expensive, too chemically enhanced or too
filling (combining for full protein.) I do love tofu though so I may look
into some more options to use it other than the obvious.
Yay for it being summer here, I can eat salad until it comes out of my ears.

And for the costume content:
I need to lose a couple of kilos so I can happily wear a pretty dress or two
for some singing comps in April. Two songs in costume!
Wishing You Were Somehow Here Again for the musical theatre and What Would I
Do for the G&S. Nice contrasting pieces, both options for costume I wanted
to do for ages!
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/phantom/wishing.htm
I've had the fabric since 2001 for the purpose but had no reason to make it.

The other will be an early 18thC Mantua:) Or 1780s ensemble.. it depends on
what is closer to the original concept of The Grand Duke.

And now I need to decide on a song for the restricted section and possibly a
sacred song... I don't want to do more than 4 classes.


michaela
http://costumes.glittersweet.com



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From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
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Hi Bjarne.
   
  I have just discovered a source for "kammerdug" very fine linen. I don't know if it is of the right quality, but seems to. I have boiled it and it has kept the crisp hand.
   
  You can get it at Broderi Antik for 399 dkr a meter. it is about 140 cm wide.
   
  Hope you can use this info
   
  Tania
   

		
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> Self-stick came in when I was in high school. When I started needing
> protection in the mid-1970s, we used belts, and belt-style pads
> were still sold for many years after that.

And tampons were even older though apparently morality issues kept many
women from wanting to try them, and advertising was pretty difficult for
some time.
http://www.mum.org/tamad36.htm
And there was a dgap between European women getting to use them and
American:
http://leda.law.harvard.edu/leda/data/359/Kohen.html

It's hard to believe a plug like option was never thought of before the
20thC
http://www.sccs.swarthmore.edu/users/01/sarahk/hers/school/tampon.html


Though I'm sure I read someone had found some better evidence somewhere..
But I can't find it. I'm sure there is a real research paper in there, but
it's not going to be easy concidering the shame still felt by a lot of women
from discussing their periods. I have a book called "The Woman Beautuful."
In it menstruation is discussed, but wow! What a lot of hooey!
A period should be clear or only lightly tinged with blood and if it was
heavy you were guilty of "amavitive thoughts." My latin grammar is dreadful
but it was along those lines.

In other words shame on you for having a normal period for you must be
lustful! And this book was written at the start of the 20thC.

michaela
http://costumes.glittersweet.com



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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Dress Dummy ...
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 15:36:03 -0600
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But so much easier to take in than let out, isn't it?
Betsy, (with the same problem in the opposite direction, but resolved to
remedy the situation this year!! Using Walking/archery/low-carbs so far)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of sunshine_buchler@agilent.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 1:54 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Dress Dummy ...

snippage

I've considered making a second sloper of me in a Victorian corset, just to
try and see. The reason I haven't done so already is (1) I've lost weight
and the form doesn't fit me at all anymore. (Sigh. It's a good thing, but
sad when your garb don't fit no more). 

Good luck and enjoy!
	-sunshine





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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress Dummy ...
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: <sunshine_buchler@agilent.com>
<< I've considered making a second sloper of me in a Victorian corset, just 
to try and see. The reason I haven't done so already is (1) I've lost weight 
and the form doesn't fit me at all anymore. (Sigh. It's a good thing, but 
sad when your garb don't fit no more). And (2) that the dress form's bust is 
so firm that I'm not convinced that I can move it into the proper corseted 
location. However, this is what I'd recommend trying in order to represent 
your different levels of squish :-). Do note, that if you leave one sloper 
on the dress form, after awhile the padding will squash into that shape, and 
won't "rebound" well. >>

You might want to try what I wound up having to do to fix mine (the bust was 
about 4 inches too low, and it was just plain too big to compress in various 
spots): I split the foam thing in two, along the plane where the two halves 
had been glued together.  Then I carved out a bit of the foam from the 
inside, at the waist and hips, and across the upper bust (so that I could 
pre-compress the foam there) and glued the two halves back together.  Worked 
like a charm, except that afterwards I had to trim 4 inches off the bottom 
of the back half so both would be the same height!

-E House 

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Subject: [h-cost] linen burn test & other tests
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Speaking of fine linen, I think I may have just gotten quite a bit of that 
myself.  It's pure linen according to the manufacturer, but...  If you saw 
this stuff, you'd understand why I'm hesitant to take their word for it. 
(Especially since the pure linen thing is second hand info, albeit from a 
source I trust.)  It looks like a high quality cotton muslin, or maybe 
cotton sheeting old enough to be worn thin, and though there are a few very 
faint slubs you have to look at it from a few inches away to notice them. 
It's not fine when compared to finely woven cottons; it's only fine when 
compared with other linens.

I've done a burn test.  However, since this stuff is so thin, the results 
aren't entirely clear to me.  For example, it ignites quickly, but so would 
just about anything that thin.  It burns black then after a couple of 
seconds leaves a thin feathery gray ash, in the same shape as the fabric, 
which pretty much dissolves at a touch.  The fabric near the edge of the ash 
is a bit brittle, but not enough that I can really distinguish it from 
cotton that way.

I also tried unraveling the fibers, but again, they're so tiny it's hard to 
tell or even to unravel them at all. Overall, they're no longer than an inch 
or so, but from what I've read it's common for fabricmakers to treat other 
fibers as cotton, and to shred 'em so that they can be spun on their cotton 
equipment. This stuff does have a bit more stretch to it than cotton would, 
but less than lycra cotton would; it's also got a bit of that 'cool' feel to 
it, but it's hard to tell for sure, again, because it's so finely woven. 
When wet, it does seem to hold a bit more water than a cotton of the same 
thickness.

I have about 8 yards of it in white, and about 16 of it in lavender.  The 
lavender is less stretchy than the white, but still has about the stretch of 
a linen.  The lavender is apparently unbleachable! but lately I've run into 
several linens that I'm sure ARE linen but have been dyed with some mutant 
unbleachable dye, so I'm not going by that.  Besides, if I did, I'd have to 
assume it was some sort of man-made fiber, and I'm positive as I can be that 
it's not.

Any ideas?  Any other tests I could throw at it?  (I have no microscope, 
btw.) I'd really love for this stuff to be linen, but since it just plain 
looks so un-linen-like I have to be as sure as I possibly can be before I'll 
use it AS linen!  I'm used to being able to pick out linen just by looking 
and touching; this is frustrating!

-E House

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>>
> Have you also read the theory that one reason for the development of 
> the codpiece was to help serve as a pouch to disguise (or prevent 
> staining on clothing by) external treatments for the rashes caused by 
> syphilis?
>
> Classic situation of somebody with a PiledHigh and Deep degree working 
> out of their area of knowledge. The 16th Cent. codpiece was a logical 
> extension (pardon the pun) of the earlier versions which covered the 
> join of hose. That is like saying that the rise of poulaines as a 
> footwear was in response to an historical elongation of the middle 
> toe, or the Elizabethan ruff as a preventative for the gathering of 
> dandruff on fashionable clothing. Poor grasp of the subject combined 
> with a taste for the theatrical does not a reasonable theory make.  
> Mike T.

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Hi, All. There was also a consideration that the belt was there to help 
keep in place a pessary of cloth, a sort of "plug" to assist with a 
condition called "prolapsed uterus". With no real human tissue left in 
place, it was an assumption, but a proceedure similar to it is mentioned 
in 16th Cent. medical texts. Mike T.


>And in fact, Poul Norlund's team found the remnants of a sort of belt on
>one of the female corpses in Herjolfsnes, Greenland. If I remember right
>without hauling down the notes, it was an arrangement of linen (rag?) pad
>within a piece of sealskin slung between the legs, which was held by a
>linen cord around the hips -- sort of a string bikini. The information is
>tucked into the medical section of the 1924 archaeological report, not
>with the clothing, so is often overlooked by people who see and read only
>the clothing section written by Norlund. I don't think it's mentioned at
>all by Else Ostergard in Woven into the Earth.
>
>The doctor writing the 1924 medical analysis concluded from the
>deformities in the woman's bones that she might have been incontinent, and
>deduced that the pad was thus an incontinence pad. Heather Rose Jones has
>pointed out on this list (and I agree) that it could as easily have been a
>menstrual pad, a possibility not mentioned at all by the doctor. Either
>way, though, it shows that at least one medieval woman had a means for
>catching fluids. (I find it particularly interesting that the people
>preparing her body for burial did not remove the pad.)
>
>
>  
>
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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
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michael tartaglio wrote:

> Hi, All. There was also a consideration that the belt was there to 
> help keep in place a pessary of cloth, a sort of "plug" to assist with 
> a condition called "prolapsed uterus". With no real human tissue left 
> in place, it was an assumption, but a proceedure similar to it is 
> mentioned in 16th Cent. medical texts. Mike T.


Wait, wait, I have an Occam's Razor here somewhere!

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

*****************************
Book now for Canterbury Faire 
http://sg.sca.org.nz/cf.htm
*****************************


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From: Alex Doyle <garbaholic@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] linen burn test & other tests
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  Any ideas? Any other tests I could throw at it? (I have no microscope, 
btw.) I'd really love for this stuff to be linen, but since it just plain 
looks so un-linen-like I have to be as sure as I possibly can be before I'll 
use it AS linen! I'm used to being able to pick out linen just by looking 
and touching; this is frustrating!


  Try scrunching up a fist of fabric and hold for a moment and release.  If there are lots of sharp creases = linen/ lots of soft creases= cotton/ a few soft creases= blend of natural fiber/polyester/no creases = polyester.  If you need to, do this with fabric you know the content of to see what the fiber does.  
  This works great when fabric shopping because no one has to get upset about a lighter in the store!
   
  alex
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On Jan 10, 2006, at 11:40 AM, roscelinlimoges@comcast.net wrote:

> And why was it more common for men to wear underwear and not women?
>
> I betcha I'm going to be quite embarassed by the obvious reasons.  :-)

There's a lot of evidence that medieval Europeans considered  
underpants to represent "masculinity" in a symbolic way.  That is,  
men wore underpants and women didn't because underpants were  
intrinsically a masculine garment.  This may seem like a circular  
argument, but social attitudes towards gendered clothing always seem  
to end up that way.  For a 21st century comparison, substitute  
"dresses and women" for "underpants and men".  There's no logical  
reason why women wear dresses and men don't other than because  
society says that dresses are an inherently feminine garment and  
therefore it's inappropriate for men to wear them.  All the logic and  
reason in the world can't fight it.

Heather

--
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net
http://www.heatherrosejones.com
LJ:hrj


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval quote on underwear
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Heather's point about drawers/braies/breeches = masculinity is paramount.
Beyond that, though, the lack of underwear on women is not nearly so
"impractical" as some people seem to assume.

To begin with, it's worth noting that underwear worn with a long skirt can
make toileting really awkward, especially if you're squatting over a
chamberpot/ditch/whatever. If you have to pull everything up so that you
can then pull something down, and then you have to straddle and squat over
a target ... quite a balancing act if you're wearing drawers, and even
with slit drawers (that don't need pulling down), you still have to reach
under the skirts to get the fabric out of the line of fire. Without any
drawers, it's an easy matter to step over the pot and squat, using your
knees to help spread the skirts away from the body. Of course it would be
more complicated during menstruation, but it is for us too.

(Spread-and-squat is still typical in certain cultures in which women wear
long robes. I remember a picturesque description by a Western female
traveler on a bus ride through the middle east: When it came time for a
pit stop, the bus stopped out in the middle of the desert. The women went
on one side of the bus and sank gracefully down to the sand, their skirts
spread in circles around them. The men went to the other side of the bus
and peed against the bus [what is it about having to have a standing
target, anyway?]. The pants-wearing female Westerner had a much harder
time of it -- I believe she learned to carry an umbrella to use as a
portable wall.)

For men, toileting is done differently from women at least half the time,
which changes the mechanical considerations. It's interesting to note that
in tunic-wearing periods, men often had shorter garments than women did,
which would mean less bulk to lift out of the way. Of course there were
many influences on style besides anatomical ones, but this issue may have
been one factor in the gender differences in hem length. And as someone
else has noted, braies/breeches/drawers were not universal on men even in
these periods. It's quite possible, too, that men found it equally useful
to go without underwear under long, full robes like houppelandes.

Several people have brought up the question of cold climate with the idea
that drawers would be logical/necessary for warmth. Just as one data
point, I routinely go without underwear when in costume, and I have never
noticed any chill up the skirts; the only parts I've noticed to suffer in
cold weather are the feet. Given the proper number of layers in the skirts
and the use of insulating natural fibers, the area under the skirts seems
to maintain its own warm environment.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval quote on underwear
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snip
> Several people have brought up the question of cold climate with the idea 
> that drawers would be logical/necessary for warmth. Just as one data
> point, I routinely go without underwear when in costume, and I have never 
> noticed any chill up the skirts; the only parts I've noticed to suffer in 
> cold weather are the feet. Given the proper number of layers in the skirts 
> and the use of insulating natural fibers, the area under the skirts seems 
> to maintain its own warm environment.
>
> --Robin

I've found the only time that I really 'need' to wear drawers under my 
costumes, are when it's really hot.  In hot weather having split crotch 
drawers on keeps things from chafing, and the split enables me to still 
answer nature's call when wearing a corset and several layers of skirts. 
That somewhat explains why Italian women wore them and English women didn't.

Melusine 

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Subject: [h-cost] linen testing
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was about to suggest that - although sometimes treated cottons do the same 
thing.

the other thing is something you start to notice when you handkle linen a lot 
- and apologies that this will sound a bit vague and away with the fairies, 
but if you run your hand over the cloth, linen threads have a kind of hardness 
to them - it's as though you can feel each individual thread - with cotton it 
feels much smoother - more like a single piece.  (sorry - told you it woould 
be vague).

Also there's the rip test.  If you have enough fabric, make little snip about 
2 inches from the cut edge, then rip down the weft.  9 times out of 10, the 
cotton will have a flat, soft (if feathery) edge, linen will crinkle and curl 
at one of the ripped edges.  It comes from the fact that cotton is't as strong 
as linen, but is less britle, so when the threads snap, they do so with less 
force - linen is very strong, but also quite britle, so when it does snap, the 
linen will snap more violently, in its own little way.

Plus linen will almost certainly be harder to tear than cotton.  Although, 
again some modern treatments can alter the properties, it works most times.
debs

In a message dated 1/11/06 6:41:45 AM GMT Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> Try scrunching up a fist of fabric and hold for a moment and release.  If 
> there are lots of sharp creases = linen/ lots of soft creases= cotton/ a few 
> soft creases= blend of natural fiber/polyester/no creases = polyester.  If you 
> need to, do this with fabric you know the content of to see what the fiber 
> does.  
>  This works great when fabric shopping because no one has to get upset about 
> a lighter in the store!
>   
>  alex

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My test is that I find the linen cut edge to be stiff when you tap your 
fingers on the ends of the threads (I usually peel some of the cross threads 
away, giving about 5mm of end threads). Cotton has a soft feel.

Glenda. 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman drawers, was Medieval quote on underwear
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Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> robin@shell.nightowl.net 11/01/2006 05:36 >>> wrote:

>For men, toileting is done differently from women at least half the time,
>which changes the mechanical considerations. It's interesting to note that
>in tunic-wearing periods, men often had shorter garments than women did,
>which would mean less bulk to lift out of the way. Of course there were
>many influences on style besides anatomical ones, but this issue may have
>been one factor in the gender differences in hem length. And as someone
>else has noted, braies/breeches/drawers were not universal on men even in
>these periods. It's quite possible, too, that men found it equally useful
>to go without underwear under long, full robes like houppelandes.

Apropos of that, I noticed that in the TV series "Rome", which has recently ended in the UK, the soldiers wore thigh-length "shorts" under their tunics. I thought  I had read that these were only worn when campaigning in cold climates?


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Subject: [h-cost] Where to Go In London
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Hi All, this might seem like a strange request from a brit but I'm having a 
day to myself in London tommorow and i wondered if anyone has any ideas of 
where to go that's costume related? My original plan was 'Handweavers Studio 
then the museum of childhood, but just discovered museum is closed until 
later in the year.  I thought of asking people here because I've noticed how 
often we don't notice what's on our own door step. Much as i love the V&A, 
National Gallery, MOL, Portrait Gallery, wallace collection  etc. I'd love 
to try somewhere new. All ideas gratefully recieved. cheers
Joy 

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Subject: [h-cost] Linen burn testing
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Use your microscope and have a look at your fibers under 250x to 500x 
magnification. Flax fibers (linen) have a somewhat bamboo looking 
shape.  You get the bamboo like segments and when viewed in cross section 
there is actually a dark looking (hollow?) centre like bamboo has.  Cotton 
fibers on the other hand is long with a gentle twisting to the fiber.  In 
cross section cotton appears as a kidney bean shape.  Cotton also has a 
dark centre but it is a squashed line instead of the more open looking 
centre of linen.

Hope that helps!


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Now that's reenactment that I can get into...Whoohoo!  Mike T.

>I found it hard to believe that women used not to wear drawers until I saw Rowlandson's "Exhibition Stare-Case" - admittedly not 16th century, but... http://www.wisc.edu/english/tkelley/NASSR/images/2Rowlandsonstare2.jpg 
>
>Kate Bunting
>Librarian and 17th century reenactor
>
>  
>
>  
>
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feudtner@festefeiern-online.de wrote:

> I did not get mine either. I am in Germany.
> 


  Michaela,

Your exchange partner says she's been ill, but will be able to mail it 
this week.


Dawn



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And one of these days I'll remember to check before sending private 
email to the list. Sorry.


Dawn



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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen burn testing
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On Tue, 10 Jan 2006, Dawn Luckham wrote:

> Use your microscope and have a look at your fibers under 250x to 500x
> magnification. Flax fibers (linen) have a somewhat bamboo looking
> shape.  You get the bamboo like segments and when viewed in cross
> section there is actually a dark looking (hollow?) centre like bamboo
> has.  Cotton fibers on the other hand is long with a gentle twisting
> to the fiber.  In cross section cotton appears as a kidney bean shape.  
> Cotton also has a dark centre but it is a squashed line instead of the
> more open looking centre of linen.

How do you get the cross-section in a nonprofessional setup? I have used
my microscope on fibers, but have never figured out how to see anything
but the side view.

--Robin

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http://www.mum.org/
fascinating website. Quite a bit of evidence that for some women nothing was 
used!
With regard to sanitary protection, for some women perhaps they didn't need 
protection that often anyway. A combination of pregnancy and full breast 
feeding could mean only a fraction of the periods modern women experience. I 
myself experienced almost 3 blissful years with the pregnancy and feeding of 
my youngest! 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress Dummy ...
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sunshine_buchler@agilent.com wrote:

> I have a Uniquely You dress dummy, and she doesn't compress well at all -- this may be due to the fact that I'm on the small end of the size dress dummy they suggest I buy. I have a great deal of trouble zipping up the sloper that compresses her into my modern shape - I needed my husband to help hold the sloper together while I zipped, and he didn't think we could do it! My corsets will not fit on top of her -- she doesn't have enough squish left. 

	it's always a wrestling match. I have one, and since I'm larger than 
the size of the dummy, I didn't alter the sloper at all - and STILL 
wanted another hand or two to put the thing on. I remember when a friend 
got one years ago, it took both of us, nearly actually on top fo the 
thing to get the shell on it. But then, that's the point: the shell is 
supposed to be tight like that to make the foam compress like under skin 
and you are struggling with being on the small edge so you have more to 
compress in. T'ain't easy, though! <G>

	-Judy Mitchell
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Joy Shillaker wrote:
 > A combination of pregnancy and full
> breast feeding could mean only a fraction of the periods modern women 
> experience. I myself experienced almost 3 blissful years with the 
> pregnancy and feeding of my youngest!

On the other hand, even nursing twins, my period was back in about 4-5 
months.

I don't doubt that it works for some women, but I'd be reluctant to 
assume it was this way for a majority.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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References: <200601101900.k0AJ0JD6073098@net.indra.com>
	<000a01c6169e$db2bea50$6401a8c0@athlon2500>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Where to Go In London
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 16:31:45 +0100
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Hi Joy,
Kensington Pallace.
The entrance is at Notting Hill Station, and trough the gateway into the 
park.
They usually have exhibition about court wear, and last i was there, there 
was a tailors shop with mens tailoring for the 18th century. Gorgeous 
embroidered suits!!

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joy Shillaker" <joy@c17th.org>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 12:04 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Where to Go In London


> Hi All, this might seem like a strange request from a brit but I'm having 
> a day to myself in London tommorow and i wondered if anyone has any ideas 
> of where to go that's costume related? My original plan was 'Handweavers 
> Studio then the museum of childhood, but just discovered museum is closed 
> until later in the year.  I thought of asking people here because I've 
> noticed how often we don't notice what's on our own door step. Much as i 
> love the V&A, National Gallery, MOL, Portrait Gallery, wallace collection 
> etc. I'd love to try somewhere new. All ideas gratefully recieved. cheers
> Joy
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Average length of amenorrhea for mothers who are exclusively breastfeeding 
is 14 months. A nice phase to be in!

<<<<I don't doubt that it works for some women, but I'd be reluctant to
assume it was this way for a majority.<<<<<<<<,


Polly
> -- 
> > _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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>May i ask 
>where did you buy your knitted material.
>I dont think i would be able to get it here in Denmark.
>There is a pattern in Costume Closeup from Colonial >Williamsburg i could 
>use.
>Bjarne

I have found cotton knit at any of the lower end fabric stores here in the States, especially in the summer, although  I do have to watch carefully to make sure it's 100% cotton. I also found the lovely white lacey fabric used for the stockings shown on my site on eBay. 
 For wool knit (jersey)I need to go to the high end fabric stores which cater to those of us looking for "real" fabrics. I'm sure it is also available at online stores.

Kelly Dorman
Backward Glances
www.backwardglances.net   
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] att. Bjarne
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Dear Tania,
Yes i have found out of this. This was a surprise to me two, because this 
quality is simply the finest i have ever seen. It would be lovely for fine 
chemises and mens shirts, and also for chemise a la reine with laces.
But thanks for thinking of me!
Also for trimmings it would be perfect.......

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tania Gruning" <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 11:51 PM
Subject: [h-cost] att. Bjarne


> Hi Bjarne.
>
>  I have just discovered a source for "kammerdug" very fine linen. I don't 
> know if it is of the right quality, but seems to. I have boiled it and it 
> has kept the crisp hand.
>
>  You can get it at Broderi Antik for 399 dkr a meter. it is about 140 cm 
> wide.
>
>  Hope you can use this info
>
>  Tania
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! Photos - Showcase holiday pictures in hardcover
> Photo Books. You design it and we'll bind it!
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From: Mary <hanstar88@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Mother Ginger
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Hi Becky,
  
  My daughter's ballet school does Nutcracker every year.  They have  a M Ginger dress that is large enough to hide about a dozen kids under  it.  You said your's is for a play, but it seems like the  construction could be similar.  They used the white plastic PVC  pipe used for plumbing to create the structure, so that it would be  rigid enough to hold its shape and hold the weight of the skirts.   It has a top piece that is oval shape and a bottom piece that is a "C"  shape (to allow the children a "door" to come out of), and then a few  upright pieces, about every 2 ft?, to hold the two together.  Then  they used one of those back braces for workers who lift heavy stuff  that has suspenders attached.  The skirt frame is attached to that  somehow (I never checked it out close up).  Then the M Ginger  dress goes over the whole kit-n-kaboodle.
  
  We went to see Nutcracker in San Francisco last month and I noticed  that their M Ginger dress frame seems to be on wheels.  The nice  thing about that is that it probably takes a lot of weight off of the  person wearing the costume and it "glides" across the stage.
  
  I have some pictures, but they don't show the framework.  Let me know if you'd like to see them.
  
  HTH,
  ~mary

h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:


Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2006 09:08:23 -0500
From: "Becky" 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise

I have to design a "Mother Ginger" costume for this Christmas play of the 
Nutcracker. I have many ideas from various sites. I see how to make the 
hoops atand out at different angles. I've thought about this since the first 
of December!!!! I work on it in my sleep. I've looked everywhere for a 
pattern to use but so far nothing is as large as I need. BUT some of the 
pictures I've found have been very helpful.
Yours has helped me to see how to put it together. Any suggestions on how to 
make the underpinning hoops or farthingale that is 2-3 yards across? It has 
to be large for that character.







«:*´`´`*:»§«.»§«:*´`´`*:».«:*´`´`*:»§«.»§«:*´`´`*:»

"Pictures of perfection, as you know, make me sick & wicked."
~ Jane Austen

"Right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time.  I think I've forgotten this before."      ~ Steven Wright
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: knit stockings
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 16:58:29 +0100
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Dear Kelly,
Thanks for this................ Ill go looking at my fabric stores here in 
Copenhagen.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "KELLY" <robinandkellydorman@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 4:32 PM
Subject: [h-cost] re: knit stockings


>May i ask
>where did you buy your knitted material.
>I dont think i would be able to get it here in Denmark.
>There is a pattern in Costume Closeup from Colonial >Williamsburg i could
>use.
>Bjarne

I have found cotton knit at any of the lower end fabric stores here in the 
States, especially in the summer, although  I do have to watch carefully to 
make sure it's 100% cotton. I also found the lovely white lacey fabric used 
for the stockings shown on my site on eBay.
 For wool knit (jersey)I need to go to the high end fabric stores which 
cater to those of us looking for "real" fabrics. I'm sure it is also 
available at online stores.

Kelly Dorman
Backward Glances
www.backwardglances.net
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To satisfy my calendar urge, I ended up getting the new calendar from 
Chick-Fil-A, which is medieval and renaissance cows.  The reticulated 
hennin one isn't too bad.

"Cows in shining armor"
http://www.shopchick-fil-a.com/index.cfm/act/Catalog.cfm/catalogid/74/category/Bookstore/browse/null/MenuGroup/Home/desc/2006%20Chick%252Dfil%252DA%25AE%20Calendar%3CBR%3E%2593Cows%20In%20Shining%20Armor%2594.htm

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

Snow ants are of course snow white, and travel in huge packs, are quite 
invisible against the snow. Usually, the only way to know they're nearby 
is when moose disappear in a puff of white with a little spattering of 
red.  "The Great Canadian Wallpaper Festival" by Tempus Peregrinator
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Mother Ginger
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I would appreciate seeing other costumes for Mother Ginger. We want to put 
it on wheels as well. maybe I can tell from the pictures. Thanks for the 
offer.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mary" <hanstar88@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:55 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Mother Ginger


> Hi Becky,
>
>  My daughter's ballet school does Nutcracker every year.  They have  a M 
> Ginger dress that is large enough to hide about a dozen kids under  it. 
> You said your's is for a play, but it seems like the  construction could 
> be similar.  They used the white plastic PVC  pipe used for plumbing to 
> create the structure, so that it would be  rigid enough to hold its shape 
> and hold the weight of the skirts.   It has a top piece that is oval shape 
> and a bottom piece that is a "C"  shape (to allow the children a "door" to 
> come out of), and then a few  upright pieces, about every 2 ft?, to hold 
> the two together.  Then  they used one of those back braces for workers 
> who lift heavy stuff  that has suspenders attached.  The skirt frame is 
> attached to that  somehow (I never checked it out close up).  Then the M 
> Ginger  dress goes over the whole kit-n-kaboodle.
>
>  We went to see Nutcracker in San Francisco last month and I noticed  that 
> their M Ginger dress frame seems to be on wheels.  The nice  thing about 
> that is that it probably takes a lot of weight off of the  person wearing 
> the costume and it "glides" across the stage.
>
>  I have some pictures, but they don't show the framework.  Let me know if 
> you'd like to see them.
>
>  HTH,
>  ~mary
>
> h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>
>
> Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2006 09:08:23 -0500
> From: "Becky"
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise
>
> I have to design a "Mother Ginger" costume for this Christmas play of the
> Nutcracker. I have many ideas from various sites. I see how to make the
> hoops atand out at different angles. I've thought about this since the 
> first
> of December!!!! I work on it in my sleep. I've looked everywhere for a
> pattern to use but so far nothing is as large as I need. BUT some of the
> pictures I've found have been very helpful.
> Yours has helped me to see how to put it together. Any suggestions on how 
> to
> make the underpinning hoops or farthingale that is 2-3 yards across? It 
> has
> to be large for that character.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> «:*´`´`*:»§«.»§«:*´`´`*:».«:*´`´`*:»§«.»§«:*´`´`*:»
>
> "Pictures of perfection, as you know, make me sick & wicked."
> ~ Jane Austen
>
> "Right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time.  I think I've 
> forgotten this before."      ~ Steven Wright
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20060111155522.93732.qmail@web36505.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Mother Ginger
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 11:15:42 -0500
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Where did you see the ballet last year? Maybe I can contact the company for 
ideas on the costume. If you don't mind telling me that is.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mary" <hanstar88@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:55 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Mother Ginger


> Hi Becky,
>
>  My daughter's ballet school does Nutcracker every year.  They have  a M 
> Ginger dress that is large enough to hide about a dozen kids under  it. 
> You said your's is for a play, but it seems like the  construction could 
> be similar.  They used the white plastic PVC  pipe used for plumbing to 
> create the structure, so that it would be  rigid enough to hold its shape 
> and hold the weight of the skirts.   It has a top piece that is oval shape 
> and a bottom piece that is a "C"  shape (to allow the children a "door" to 
> come out of), and then a few  upright pieces, about every 2 ft?, to hold 
> the two together.  Then  they used one of those back braces for workers 
> who lift heavy stuff  that has suspenders attached.  The skirt frame is 
> attached to that  somehow (I never checked it out close up).  Then the M 
> Ginger  dress goes over the whole kit-n-kaboodle.
>
>  We went to see Nutcracker in San Francisco last month and I noticed  that 
> their M Ginger dress frame seems to be on wheels.  The nice  thing about 
> that is that it probably takes a lot of weight off of the  person wearing 
> the costume and it "glides" across the stage.
>
>  I have some pictures, but they don't show the framework.  Let me know if 
> you'd like to see them.
>
>  HTH,
>  ~mary
>
> h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>
>
> Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2006 09:08:23 -0500
> From: "Becky"
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise
>
> I have to design a "Mother Ginger" costume for this Christmas play of the
> Nutcracker. I have many ideas from various sites. I see how to make the
> hoops atand out at different angles. I've thought about this since the 
> first
> of December!!!! I work on it in my sleep. I've looked everywhere for a
> pattern to use but so far nothing is as large as I need. BUT some of the
> pictures I've found have been very helpful.
> Yours has helped me to see how to put it together. Any suggestions on how 
> to
> make the underpinning hoops or farthingale that is 2-3 yards across? It 
> has
> to be large for that character.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> «:*´`´`*:»§«.»§«:*´`´`*:».«:*´`´`*:»§«.»§«:*´`´`*:»
>
> "Pictures of perfection, as you know, make me sick & wicked."
> ~ Jane Austen
>
> "Right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time.  I think I've 
> forgotten this before."      ~ Steven Wright
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
_______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] linen testing / cross section
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[How do you get the cross-section in a nonprofessional setup? I have used
my microscope on fibers, but have never figured out how to see anything
but the side view.}

LOL!  Truth be told, I don't often manage it myself.  :P
I try to cut very short, fragmented pieces of fiber (almost like dicing an 
onion).  Every once in a while one or two pieces of fiber end up in the 
right position on the microscope slide to be viewed as a cross section.

Linen really doesn't need to be viewed this way to be recognized though, as 
the bamboo like characteristics are very recognizable when viewed as full 
length fibers.  - It'd be great, on the other hand if I could reliably get 
a good cross section view for cottons. :o)

Dawn L.


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Subject: [h-cost] re: knit stockings
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>Mid-19th century is different than 18thC.  From what I >can tell,
>stockings cut from knit yardgoods were only in use for a >short time. 
>If you have infrmation about this for 19thC, I am >very .curious!  From
>what I can tell, cut and sewn was not at all common for >the 19thC.

From
The employments of women: a cyclopaedia of woman's work./ By Virginia Penny.
Penny, Virginia, b. 1826.Penny, Virginia,  How women can make money.
Boston: Walker, Wise, & Company1863.

Hosiers:
A knitting machine has been invented in Seneca, N. Y., that is said to knit a perfect stocking in less than five minutes. Aikens's knitting machines are very popular. We have thought ladies would do well to try them, and devote themselves to making up hosiery. We' doubt not but it would pay very well. - The cloth is knit in a straight piece, and another lady cuts it into shape and sews into the articles wanted. 
Work done by steam power is not so neat; the selvages are not well made, and the goods must be cut and sewed in seams. Many women are employed in hosiery manufactures where steam is used. 

From:
The new American cyclopaedia: a popular dictionary of general knowledge. Ed. by George Ripley and Charles A. Dana ...
Ripley, George, ed. Dana, Charles A. ed. (Charles AndersonNew York [etc]: D. Appleton and company1859-1863.



Stocking:

The shaping of the web to fit the foot is matter of no little ingenuity. The flat web is either knit in long strips of sufficient width to make when turned over several stockings which are cut out from the web.



From:

The Hosiery Resource Centre



Full-fashioned stockings are knitted flat, than fashioned, or shaped, by hand manipulation and hand seamed up the back. Knitting is back and forth across the fabric (weft knitting) on a straight-bar machine invented by William Cotton in 1864. The stocking is started at the top with the welt, an extra-thick section for gartering. The fabric is shaped by reducing the number of needles at the ankle, then adding needles at the heel, and again reducing the number through the foot.

  Seamless stockings are knitted on circular machines, brought out in the mid-19th century. For many years such stockings were a straight, knitted tube that did not fit as well as the full-fashioned, because stitches cannot be added or dropped in circular knitting by machine. (I've seen reference to these as "leg-bags", obviously not a compliment in an age which prized a trim ankle!)



 I agree that modern knit fabric is stretchier than that found in earlier periods, based on the originals I have been able to examine.  However, with this method I am able to mimic the technique used in the period with 100% natural materials and end up with a product that fits and is closer to period stockings than anything currently being offered by vendors - it works for me 



Kelly Dorman

Backward Glances

www.backwardglances.net







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Just a couple of bits.

First, it's unlikely that any Herjofsnes garments were found with linen pads 
of any sort (linen has not survived in the conditions at Herjofsnes).  What 
may be being remembered is the polar bear breeches from Angmagssalik (now 
called Tasiilaq), and may not be even Norse.  It's also possible that they 
are thinking of whatever those seal skin things that I've heard Robin 
mention.

Women and breeches.  In a recent work by Margarette Nockert, the Skjoldehamn 
trousers were redated and also were described as a woman's garment.  This 
doesn't really bother me since in one of the Sagas (sdon't ask me which 
right now) a woman was accused of wearing "gusseted trousers, like a man's", 
which could be construed as meaning that women (in that time and place) 
might wear ungusseted trousers.  And quite honestly, "little ice age" or 
not, I think that NOT wearing something under your skirts in a Scandinavian 
winter is unlikely.

In Italy, things might be different.

I have rants on the ubiquity of the "little ice age" as an an excuse for 
things, and the "women were pregnant all the time" myth, but I think they 
may be off topic for this list.

Marc


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I could have sworn that back in anthropology 101 they taught us that 
extended breastfeeding was used to make a woman less likely to get pregnant, 
not that it stopped menstruation.

Marc


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 Message: 3
> Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 19:11:46 -0600
> From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
> Subject: [h-cost] linen burn test & other tests
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <02e801c6164b$ffa3a1f0$cb00a8c0@compaqub>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>        reply-type=original
>
> <mucho snippage>
> Any ideas?  Any other tests I could throw at it?  (I have no microscope,
> btw.) I'd really love for this stuff to be linen, but since it just plain
> looks so un-linen-like I have to be as sure as I possibly can be before
> I'll
> use it AS linen!  I'm used to being able to pick out linen just by looking
> and touching; this is frustrating!
>
> -E House


I use the 'washing machine test'. It's not scientific, but it's helpful for
me. Put your linen and some fabric that you know cotton (about the same
weight/weave) in the washer. After running it through a cycle, pull and tug
both fabrics. Linen is stronger when wet, cotton is weaker when wet. You
should be able to tell if there's a difference. --
Joyce
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Subject: microscopy of fibers (was Re: [h-cost] linen testing / cross section
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Quoting Dawn Luckham <dluckham@sympatico.ca>:

>
> LOL!  Truth be told, I don't often manage it myself.  :P
> I try to cut very short, fragmented pieces of fiber (almost like 
> dicing an onion).  Every once in a while one or two pieces of fiber 
> end up in the right position on the microscope slide to be viewed as 
> a cross section.

That's probably the easiest -- (mind you, I've never done this with
fiber -- it didn't dawn on me at all to try and have a lookie-see. 
*duh* smacks self in forehead)

>
> Linen really doesn't need to be viewed this way to be recognized 
> though, as the bamboo like characteristics are very recognizable when 
> viewed as full length fibers.  - It'd be great, on the other hand if 
> I could reliably get a good cross section view for cottons. :o)
>

And it makes sense, now that I think about it.

<biology mode>
What you have in linen, if I'm not badly mistaken, are the vascular
fibers in the stems.  And that (bamboo) is what they should look like. 
You may even be able to see the spiral thickenings in the inside of the
tracheids.  I'm going to have to do some investigation.

Cotton, on the other hand, is composed of the fibers that surround the
seed.  Each individual cotton fiber is a single, elongated cell -- we
call them hairs (for an analogue that you're probably familiar with --
the inside of an orange!).  The linen fibers are multicellular.

Of course, I had to go poke around the web, so ...
http://tinyurl.com/86kls
(you have to follow the links to the pictures)

http://tinyurl.com/7uvql
microscope images of various fibers

http://tinyurl.com/8a9xo
from the USDA.  unfortunately, I can't find one for linen like this.

http://tinyurl.com/bhvz6
from this page
http://invsee.asu.edu/ImageGallery/Real/LifeSciences/Em/FIBERS/
with micrographs of *lots* of fibers both animal and vegetable.

and for some pretty polarized light micrographs
http://tinyurl.com/d6lvc

Jerusha, the biology geek
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Hello

could someone please send me (OFF LIST) digests 22 to
27 - if they have them? My in box has just not
collected them for some reason, although I've had 28
and 29. It's weird to come into conversations half way
through!

many thanks,

Katherine S.

"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright


		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Where to Go In London
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 20:24:30 +0100
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If you really have some hours, I would like to suggest Kenwood House which
is in Hampstead.
A country manor in London! Lots of wonderful furniture and paintings. It has
been a while since I've been there but I seem to remember they had some
clothing as well (not much, but still...).

Anyway have fun!
Michaela
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joy Shillaker" <joy@c17th.org>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 12:04 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Where to Go In London


> Hi All, this might seem like a strange request from a brit but I'm having
a
> day to myself in London tommorow and i wondered if anyone has any ideas of
> where to go that's costume related? My original plan was 'Handweavers
Studio
> then the museum of childhood, but just discovered museum is closed until
> later in the year.  I thought of asking people here because I've noticed
how
> often we don't notice what's on our own door step. Much as i love the V&A,
> National Gallery, MOL, Portrait Gallery, wallace collection  etc. I'd love
> to try somewhere new. All ideas gratefully recieved. cheers
> Joy
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Nursing and menses
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On Wed, 11 Jan 2006, Marc Carlson wrote:

> I could have sworn that back in anthropology 101 they taught us that
> extended breastfeeding was used to make a woman less likely to get
> pregnant, not that it stopped menstruation.

It does both.

Breastfeeding temporarily stops ovulation, which in turn stops
menstruation -- menstrual periods are a direct result of ovulation. You
don't have periods without ovulating.

(It is possible to bleed without ovulation; this is considered "abnormal
uterine bleeding" and not menstruation, and sometimes looks similar but
typically does not follow the regular pattern of monthly periods.)

(The monthly bleeds that occur during cyclical hormone therapy or the use
of oral contraception look like periods, but they're not. They're enforced
bleeds created by the adjustment of hormone dosage. They don't enter into 
this discussion, in any case.)

Breastfeeding doesn't always stop pregnancy, since when you start
ovulating and having periods again, you ovulate first (before you've had
your first period return). So you can get pregnant before your periods
come back, and I know people who have done so (oops). It's generally
advised not to rely on the lack of periods as absolute birth control; you
can be assured of a delay, often a long one, but eventually you might hit
it just as your ovaries get back in action.

--Robin
medical editor

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I have two lesser-known favorite museums in London, neither of them have textile stuff but they're still quite fun:

1) The Geffrye Museum (http://www.geffrye-museum.org.uk/) which is a museum of interiors -- it's got a room decorated in the style from the reign of each major monarch starting at about 1600 (I can't remember if it includes Elizabeth I or not...). The museum itself is in the suburbs of London.

2) Sir John Soane's Museum (http://www.soane.org/) which is the house of a regency architect (quite lovely) and includes his painting collection (which has the complete Rake's Progress by Hogarth in oils!) and his Egyptian mummy!

Hope that helps,
	-sunny

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Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 14:38:06 -0600
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Nursing and menses
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Quoting Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>:

>
> On Wed, 11 Jan 2006, Marc Carlson wrote:
>
>> I could have sworn that back in anthropology 101 they taught us that
>> extended breastfeeding was used to make a woman less likely to get
>> pregnant, not that it stopped menstruation.
>
> It does both.
>
> Breastfeeding temporarily stops ovulation, which in turn stops
> menstruation -- menstrual periods are a direct result of ovulation. You
> don't have periods without ovulating.
>

*snippage*

>
> Breastfeeding doesn't always stop pregnancy, since when you start
> ovulating and having periods again, you ovulate first (before you've had
> your first period return). So you can get pregnant before your periods
> come back, and I know people who have done so (oops). It's generally
> advised not to rely on the lack of periods as absolute birth control; you
> can be assured of a delay, often a long one, but eventually you might hit
> it just as your ovaries get back in action.
>

Yeah.  I have a rather surprising number of friends who have childres 11
months apart.  They forgot the cardinal rule -- you ovulate *before*
that first period (generally) not afterwards!  My grandmother was so
irregular, she never knew when she was pregnant until she started
growing out of her clothes!

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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On the non-physical side, having a small child forever attatched to you makes it difficult to get the chance to get pregnant.

Wendy


 --- On Wed 01/11, Robin Netherton < robin@shell.nightowl.net > wrote:
From: Robin Netherton [mailto: robin@shell.nightowl.net]
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 14:38:20 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Nursing and menses

<br>On Wed, 11 Jan 2006, Marc Carlson wrote:<br><br>> I could have sworn that back in anthropology 101 they taught us that<br>> extended breastfeeding was used to make a woman less likely to get<br>> pregnant, not that it stopped menstruation.<br><br>It does both.<br><br>Breastfeeding temporarily stops ovulation, which in turn stops<br>menstruation -- menstrual periods are a direct result of ovulation. You<br>don't have periods without ovulating.<br><br>(It is possible to bleed without ovulation; this is considered "abnormal<br>uterine bleeding" and not menstruation, and sometimes looks similar but<br>typically does not follow the regular pattern of monthly periods.)<br><br>(The monthly bleeds that occur during cyclical hormone therapy or the use<br>of oral contraception look like periods, but they're not. They're enforced<br>bleeds created by the adjustment of hormone dosage. They don't enter into <br>this discussion, in any case.)<br><br>Breastfeeding doesn't always stop 
pregnancy, since when you start<br>ovulating and having periods again, you ovulate first (before you've had<br>your first period return). So you can get pregnant before your periods<br>come back, and I know people who have done so (oops). It's generally<br>advised not to rely on the lack of periods as absolute birth control; you<br>can be assured of a delay, often a long one, but eventually you might hit<br>it just as your ovaries get back in action.<br><br>--Robin<br>medical editor<br><br>_______________________________________________<br>h-costume mailing list<br>h-costume@mail.indra.com<br>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<br>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Nursing and menses
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One of the Dads on my Stay-at-home-Dads list is a big believer in the 
Family bed.  So the question did come up of how did you get the second 
and third child if you were all in the same bed?  Answer was that the 
family room had a large couch, and a lock on the door.

Stephen - who remembers fun before having kids.

Wendy wrote:

>On the non-physical side, having a small child forever attatched to you makes it difficult to get the chance to get pregnant.
>
>Wendy
>
>
> --- On Wed 01/11, Robin Netherton < robin@shell.nightowl.net > wrote:
>From: Robin Netherton [mailto: robin@shell.nightowl.net]
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 14:38:20 -0600 (CST)
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Nursing and menses
>
><br>On Wed, 11 Jan 2006, Marc Carlson wrote:<br><br>> I could have sworn that back in anthropology 101 they taught us that<br>> extended breastfeeding was used to make a woman less likely to get<br>> pregnant, not that it stopped menstruation.<br><br>It does both.<br><br>Breastfeeding temporarily stops ovulation, which in turn stops<br>menstruation -- menstrual periods are a direct result of ovulation. You<br>don't have periods without ovulating.<br><br>(It is possible to bleed without ovulation; this is considered "abnormal<br>uterine bleeding" and not menstruation, and sometimes looks similar but<br>typically does not follow the regular pattern of monthly periods.)<br><br>(The monthly bleeds that occur during cyclical hormone therapy or the use<br>of oral contraception look like periods, but they're not. They're enforced<br>bleeds created by the adjustment of hormone dosage. They don't enter into <br>this discussion, in any case.)<br><br>Breastfeeding doesn't always stop 
>pregnancy, since when you start<br>ovulating and having periods again, you ovulate first (before you've had<br>your first period return). So you can get pregnant before your periods<br>come back, and I know people who have done so (oops). It's generally<br>advised not to rely on the lack of periods as absolute birth control; you<br>can be assured of a delay, often a long one, but eventually you might hit<br>it just as your ovaries get back in action.<br><br>--Robin<br>medical editor<br><br>_______________________________________________<br>h-costume mailing list<br>h-costume@mail.indra.com<br>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<br>
>
>_______________________________________________
>No banners. No pop-ups. No kidding.
>Make My Way  your home on the Web - http://www.myway.com
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>  
>



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Caroline wrote:

> If you are pregnant or breastfeeding you are unlikely to have monthly
> cycles.  Admitted women who are not sexually active won't be pregnant much
> but once you take nuns out of the equasion most women wouldn't need sanitary
> protection much during their life.

This is not exactly true. Number one, there were thousand of nuns throughout
the period (ha ha) we are discussing. Number two, there were thousands of
other unmarried women, women whose husbands were away for years at a time
(sailors, crusaders, and traveling merchants come to mind), barren women or
women with impotent husbands, and widows. Number three (I know this from
experience), breastfeeding tends to suppress menstruation, but it doesn't
for everyone, at least not for the same amount of time. So that leaves out a
considerable number of women. It doesn't follow at all that "most" women
wouldn't need sanitary protection much during their life.

But even if that were true, they would still need it sometimes, so they must
have had established ways of taking care of it.

Gail Finke


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In a message dated 1/11/2006 7:30:13 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dluckham@sympatico.ca writes:

Flax  fibers (linen) have a somewhat bamboo looking 
shape.  You get the  bamboo like segments and when viewed in cross section 
there is actually a  dark looking (hollow?) centre like bamboo has.


Other bast fibers (ramie, hemp), also look like bamboo, but they are much  
less commonly found in yard goods.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Nursing and menses
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In a message dated 1/11/2006 11:38:14 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
marccarlson20@hotmail.com writes:

could  have sworn that back in anthropology 101 they taught us that 
extended  breastfeeding was used to make a woman less likely to get pregnant, 
not  that it stopped menstruation.




The two kind of go together, don't they?  However, when I was  researching 
various "behind closed doors" topics, I found that breast feeding  does delay 
onset of the cycle, and hence the possibility of  pregnancy.  Women were aware 
of this and sometimes used breast feeding  deliberately to delay pregnancy. 
However, my sources said that how  breast feeding delays onset of the cycle is 
not perfectly understood.
 
Ann Wass
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>Mid-19th century is different than 18thC.  From what I >can tell,
>stockings cut from knit yardgoods were only in use for a >short time. 
>If you have infrmation about this for 19thC, I am >very .curious!  From
>what I can tell, cut and sewn was not at all common for >the 19thC.

From
The employments of women: a cyclopaedia of woman's work./ By Virginia Penny.
Penny, Virginia, b. 1826.Penny, Virginia,  How women can make money.
Boston: Walker, Wise, & Company1863.

Hosiers:
A knitting machine has been invented in Seneca, N. Y., that is said to knit a perfect stocking in less than five minutes. Aikens's knitting machines are very popular. We have thought ladies would do well to try them, and devote themselves to making up hosiery. We' doubt not but it would pay very well. - The cloth is knit in a straight piece, and another lady cuts it into shape and sews into the articles wanted. 
Work done by steam power is not so neat; the selvages are not well made, and the goods must be cut and sewed in seams. Many women are employed in hosiery manufactures where steam is used. 

From:
The new American cyclopaedia: a popular dictionary of general knowledge. Ed. by George Ripley and Charles A. Dana ...
Ripley, George, ed. Dana, Charles A. ed. (Charles AndersonNew York [etc]: D. Appleton and company1859-1863.



Stocking:

The shaping of the web to fit the foot is matter of no little ingenuity. The flat web is either knit in long strips of sufficient width to make when turned over several stockings which are cut out from the web.



From:

The Hosiery Resource Centre



Full-fashioned stockings are knitted flat, than fashioned, or shaped, by hand manipulation and hand seamed up the back. Knitting is back and forth across the fabric (weft knitting) on a straight-bar machine invented by William Cotton in 1864. The stocking is started at the top with the welt, an extra-thick section for gartering. The fabric is shaped by reducing the number of needles at the ankle, then adding needles at the heel, and again reducing the number through the foot.

  Seamless stockings are knitted on circular machines, brought out in the mid-19th century. For many years such stockings were a straight, knitted tube that did not fit as well as the full-fashioned, because stitches cannot be added or dropped in circular knitting by machine. (I've seen reference to these as "leg-bags", obviously not a compliment in an age which prized a trim ankle!)



 I agree that modern knit fabric is stretchier than that found in earlier periods, based on the originals I have been able to examine.  However, with this method I am able to mimic the technique used in the period with 100% natural materials and end up with a product that fits and is closer to period stockings than anything currently being offered by vendors - it works for me 



Kelly Dorman

Backward Glances

www.backwardglances.net




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Thankyou Michaela and Sunny for your suggestions. looks like I need another 
trip up to London! Fortunately I only live in Portsmouth and the mega Bus 
gets me up there for Ł2.50 return! (About the same cost for me to go to 
portsmouth Dockyard and the historic ships!)

And thankyou, Robin for the fascinating information about the Herjofsnes 
garments.

With regard to the menstruation discussion, it would seem that there are 
many factors to take into consideration. It's a long time since my degree 
but from what I can remember about fertility and family size in Early modern 
Europe, women's experience varied according to social status,(e.g.wet 
nursing = more births) environmental factors, ( eg. crop failure = poor 
nurition = fewer births) and of course locality.
regards
Joy 

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>From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
>Marc, I'm the one who brought up the sealskin belt/pad arrangement from
>Herjolfsnes. There were a few fragments of bast fibers (some pieces of
>cloth, some microscopic fibers) found in various spots at Herjolfsnes...

I know that we'd discussed this one in the past.

>...Lots more about bones, skin, hair, body oils, etc. for people who don't
>mind wading through 1920s medical terminology translated from the Danish.
>His descriptions seem sound, though his conclusions are sometimes a bit
>weird.

I'm just sorry that there was so little opportunity to do more of a study at 
the time, since it may not have survived even since 1921.

Marc


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<snip> Breastfeeding doesn't always stop pregnancy, since when you start
> ovulating and having periods again, you ovulate first (before you've had
> your first period return). So you can get pregnant before your periods
> come back, and I know people who have done so (oops). It's generally
> advised not to rely on the lack of periods as absolute birth control; you
> can be assured of a delay, often a long one, but eventually you might hit
> it just as your ovaries get back in action.
>
> --Robin
> medical editor
>

And as a general rule breastfeeding will only stop ovulation while it is 
baby's only food, so once they start on other foods the milk production 
reduces and ovulation starts again. That's not a hard and fast rule that 
applies to everyone but it's the most likely time that you will get caught. 
I actually came across this site on 'natural' fertility and contraceptives 
http://www.sisterzeus.com/directory.html it even includes a section on 
herbal abiortifacients (something for cooks to look out for, although most 
of these herbs require pretty massive doses to terminate pregnancy smaller 
doses could still be harmful)
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Underwear
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On Wed, 11 Jan 2006, Marc Carlson wrote:

> First, it's unlikely that any Herjofsnes garments were found with
> linen pads of any sort (linen has not survived in the conditions at
> Herjofsnes).  What may be being remembered is the polar bear breeches
> from Angmagssalik (now called Tasiilaq), and may not be even Norse.  
> It's also possible that they are thinking of whatever those seal skin
> things that I've heard Robin mention.

Marc, I'm the one who brought up the sealskin belt/pad arrangement from
Herjolfsnes. There were a few fragments of bast fibers (some pieces of
cloth, some microscopic fibers) found in various spots at Herjolfsnes. The
cloth bits are mentioned in Norlund, and Else Ostergard summarizes them,
but IIRC she misses the reference related to the item I described -- not
surprising as it is one of the microscopic ones, and would not have been
housed as a textile find. However, I misremembered that the cord on the
sealskin also was linen; it was wool, and sheep's hair and moss were also
the materials found under the sealskin covering. The item was mentioned
only in the medical section of Norlund's report, written by Fr. C. C.
Hansen, professor of anatomy, Copenhagen. From p. 322:

[as part of a discussion of possible incontinence of one of the women]

<<I mention this latter fact as a feature which hypothetically might
perhaps be related to the peculiar finding in the pelvic bones of this
woman which will be described in more detail below. For it could be shown
that a piece of sealskin had been lying from the front of mons pubis
between the femora, passing before genitalia and anus up behind os
coccygis to the sacral region, remains of sealskin being found adhering to
these places (in addition to human perineal hairs), together with the
remnants of a twisted woollen cord (or string) which had evidently been
fastened to the sealskin in front on mons pubis and behind in the sacral
region. Besides loose hairs of undyed light sheep's wool the remains of
fibres of plant substance (hemp?) were also made out. It is an obvious
explanation that the woman may have worn a kind of protective bandage
before pudenda and anus perhaps to soak up secretions during a possible
incontinence. Otherwise we know nothing about a special article of
clothing for this region among the women of the time..>>

Later, in the discussion of this particular skeleton (I forget which one,
the numbers are different than in the clothing analysis and I'm not going
to hunt all through right now to match them up), there's a much more
detailed description. Bits follow, pp. 332ff. Be aware that the
translation into English is a bit askew. Parentheses are theirs, square
brackets mine.

<< 
	On a small perfectly well-preserved bone (by os sacrum), which
could be clearly recognized as the 2nd vertebra coccygea, fitting aginst
the also quite uninjured and well-preserved 1st vertebra coccygea
subsequently found, was found adhering to the posterior surface a piece of
sealskin (microscopy!) with the hairs on; in this little piece of sealskin
were the remains of a little twisted rebrown woollen cord or string
(microscopy!) with the remains of a strongly twisted knot. [There are
references to figures that I thought I had copies of but can't find now. I
know I've seen a drawing of this fragment, but I may have missed xeroxing
it.] As on os pubis this cord was very frail and crumbled easily. ... When
this little piece of sealskin with remnants of a small twisted woollen
cord with a knot, has remained quite firmly attached to so small a bone as
the 2nd vertebra coccygea, which like the 1st vertebra coccygea was
perfectly well-preserved and uninjured, the reason must be as follows:--
	When the body was laid in the grave there must have been lying on
the back of os coccygis ... a strip of sealskin to which was fastened a
redbrown woollen cord to keep the sealskin in place, while in front on
mons pubis it was also kept in place by a couple of woollen cords which
probably passed up to a cord or belt about the hip-region, thus
representing a kind of bandage passing from mons pubis between femora down
before pudenda and anus and up between nates in the sacral region.
	As the body was laid on its back in the grave the point of the
sealskin with the woollen cord was wedged into sulcus inter nates and
secured in its position to os coccyis where, as its shown by the state of
these bones as well as of os sacrum, which is well-preserved, the
putrefaction and destruction was least, and when the cold subsequently
increased, so that the earth became permanently frozen, just these small
bones were preserved with cohering remains of hair, sealskin, and woollen
cords. We must assume that even more remained at the exhumation than we
now possess, but that most of it decayed or crumbled away before it
reached the Museum of Normal Anatomy. Finally fibres of a plant substance
(resembling hemp microscopically) were found close by, and in the layer
beneath the sealskin on the symphysis were found, besides the human pubes
hairs, loose hairs of sheep's wool of a light colour or only slightly
pigmented, and lastly, small leaves of moss, this latter perhaps an
accidental admixture(?). 
>>

Then a long discussion of the procedure for investigating the sealskin
pieces, human skin, and hairs. The hair from the head was light brown,
that in the pubic area "fairer and less pigmented." Among other points
worth noting: There was a mix of different types of sheep hair among those
found, some pigmented and others not. (Perhaps a combination of rags/bits
from different sources?) The sealskin was apparently old and long-used;
its hairs were in bad shape, unlike the human hairs next to them. Also:

<<In addition to the animal hairs well preserved threads occurred, and on
other skeletons remnants of cloth[,] made of coarse-fibred plant
substance. Those from the present case have already been mentioned. The
examination showed bast fibres quite similar to hemp (not flax). Finally
we note that particles of moss evidently from the same period were found
lying here and there under fragments of skin, between these and the bones,
but as a rule mixed with wool.>>

Lots more about bones, skin, hair, body oils, etc. for people who don't
mind wading through 1920s medical terminology translated from the Danish.
His descriptions seem sound, though his conclusions are sometimes a bit
weird.

--Robin


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Roughly what is that in American dollars and inches. :)
Actually, how do you get to the site with the linens?

De

-----Original Message-----
  You can get it at Broderi Antik for 399 dkr a meter. it is about 140 cm
wide.

  Hope you can use this info

  Tania


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Subject: [h-cost] kensington Palace
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Thankyou Bjarne, Kensington palace sounds perfect!
I'm not even going to see if they have a website so it will all be a lovely 
suprise.

regards
Joy 

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In a message dated 1/11/2006 7:45:13 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
robin@shell.nightowl.net writes:

How do  you get the cross-section in a nonprofessional setup? I have used
my  microscope on fibers, but have never figured out how to see anything
but  the side view.



I've rigged up a system at home that works sometimes.  You need a dark  thin 
plate with holes in it.  Run a bunch of fibers (you need to untwist  the 
yarns) through the hole, then seal the two sides with nail polish (we had a  
different sealant in lab class but clear nail polish is a home  substitute).  Let 
dry, then shave off both sides very thinly with a  single-edged razor blade.  
I've been successful with this technique about  50% of the time.
 
Ann Wass
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Robin wrote:

> Just as one data
> point, I routinely go without underwear when in costume,

Too much information!! Too much information!!

I prefer not to know who is "going commando" in my vicinity.

Gail Finke


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Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 20:27:02 -0700
From: Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Nursing and menses
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According to advice from La Leche League (breastfeeding support and
promotion group), for breastfeeding to be really effective in holding
off your cycles, you need to be nursing during the night.  I
considered night-weaning my toddler because we wanted to start trying
for another, but I managed to get my cycle back after he cut back to
just one overnight nursing session.  My son night-weaned shortly
afterwards anyway, but had taken 19.5 months for me to become fertile
again.

And then I had just one period before becoming pregnant again. :)


	...eliz, list admin and mom to a 2.5 yr old and a 7-week old

-- 
Children are made up of genetics, blind luck, and the stories you tell them.
 - The Flying Ks

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] att. Bjarne
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On Wednesday 11 January 2006 6:15 pm, otsisto wrote:
> Roughly what is that in American dollars and inches. :)
> Actually, how do you get to the site with the linens?

www.xe.com will convert the Danish kroner to US dollars (or just about any 
other currency) for you.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical 
results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
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Anyone have lovely pictures or horror stories to share?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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I remember that whenever my husband and I tried to start something, the baby
would wake up, even though he/she was in the next room (and, yes, we were
being very quiet. ESP at work. Built in birth control.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Wendy
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 3:06 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Nursing and menses



On the non-physical side, having a small child forever attatched to you
makes it difficult to get the chance to get pregnant.

Wendy


 --- On Wed 01/11, Robin Netherton < robin@shell.nightowl.net > wrote:
From: Robin Netherton [mailto: robin@shell.nightowl.net]
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 14:38:20 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Nursing and menses

<br>On Wed, 11 Jan 2006, Marc Carlson wrote:<br><br>> I could have sworn
that back in anthropology 101 they taught us that<br>> extended
breastfeeding was used to make a woman less likely to get<br>> pregnant, not
that it stopped menstruation.<br><br>It does both.<br><br>Breastfeeding
temporarily stops ovulation, which in turn stops<br>menstruation --
menstrual periods are a direct result of ovulation. You<br>don't have
periods without ovulating.<br><br>(It is possible to bleed without
ovulation; this is considered "abnormal<br>uterine bleeding" and not
menstruation, and sometimes looks similar but<br>typically does not follow
the regular pattern of monthly periods.)<br><br>(The monthly bleeds that
occur during cyclical hormone therapy or the use<br>of oral contraception
look like periods, but they're not. They're enforced<br>bleeds created by
the adjustment of hormone dosage. They don't enter into <br>this discussion,
in any case.)<br><br>Breastfeeding doesn't always stop 
pregnancy, since when you start<br>ovulating and having periods again, you
ovulate first (before you've had<br>your first period return). So you can
get pregnant before your periods<br>come back, and I know people who have
done so (oops). It's generally<br>advised not to rely on the lack of periods
as absolute birth control; you<br>can be assured of a delay, often a long
one, but eventually you might hit<br>it just as your ovaries get back in
action.<br><br>--Robin<br>medical
editor<br><br>_______________________________________________<br>h-costume
mailing
list<br>h-costume@mail.indra.com<br>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h
-costume<br>

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>From what I was told from a meteorologist student- there were several "mini"
ice ages, not just one. Told by someone who lives on the Rosebud
Reservation, you adapt to the cold.
And you will find in paintings where the gown is lined in fur. So I don't
think that drawers would have been worn for warmth, in all likelihood skirts
are warmer then drawers. The skirts contain the body heat, the trousers
separate.
The discussion of the "little ice age" would be slightly on topic as it
would pertain to possible reasons why/why not certain things were worn or
the validity of using LIA as a basis for use of a garment.
De

-----Original Message-----
Just a couple of bits.

 And quite honestly, "little ice age" or
not, I think that NOT wearing something under your skirts in a Scandinavian
winter is unlikely.

In Italy, things might be different.

I have rants on the ubiquity of the "little ice age" as an an excuse for
things, and the "women were pregnant all the time" myth, but I think they
may be off topic for this list.

Marc


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Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 21:56:32 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How did your winter fashions turn out?
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> Anyone have lovely pictures or horror stories to share?
> --cin

I finally finished a German Waffenrock for my fiance that was 4 years
coming.  He bought the fabric shortly after we met 4 years ago and I
started making it about a year ago.  He said he wouldn't go with me to the
fancy event (12th Night) last weekend if I didn't finish it.  So I
did....and he got all the oohs and ahhs!!  I looked pretty good, too but
everybody was looking at him!

So I would say my project was a success :~>

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Subject: [h-cost] margo pattern question
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Does anyone here have Margos Elizabethan gentlemens pattern? I've asked 
on Margos list but can't get an answer - I'm pretty sure there is a 
correction that needs to be done to the neck of the mens doublet but I 
haven't got that page - can anyone here enlighten me?
Thanks in advance, Aylwen
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 > Message: 6
 > Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 10:37:31 -0600
 > From: "Marc Carlson" <marccarlson20@hotmail.com>
 > Subject: [h-cost] OT: Nursing and menses
 >
 > I could have sworn that back in anthropology 101 they taught us that
 > extended breastfeeding was used to make a woman less likely to get 
pregnant,
 > not that it stopped menstruation.

	In LaLecheLeague we learned that you were only protected as long as 
mothers milk was the only form of nutrition that baby recieved, and that 
if you had Any menses, you were vulnerable to get pregnant again.

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Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 01:43:00 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
Subject: [h-cost] re: knit stockings
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Hi Kelly,

      Ok, I'm convinced the cut-from-yardgoods stockings existed. 
Come to think of it, there is a stocking I looked at from around 1880 
that fit the category - one of the fancy knit fabrics that probably 
could not have been done any other way.

      However, I thought you said the cut & sewn were the most common 
for mid-19th century.  I have not seen that in extant stockings in 
museum collections.  There are certainly hand-knit stockings, and 
those that are knit to shape.

>From
>The employments of women: a cyclopaedia of woman's work./ By Virginia Penny.
>Penny, Virginia, b. 1826.Penny, Virginia,  How women can make money.
>Boston: Walker, Wise, & Company1863.
>
>Hosiers:
>A knitting machine has been invented in Seneca, N. Y., that is said 
>to knit a perfect stocking in less than five minutes. Aikens's 
>knitting machines are very popular. We have thought ladies would do 
>well to try them, and devote themselves to making up hosiery. We' 
>doubt not but it would pay very well. - The cloth is knit in a 
>straight piece, and another lady cuts it into shape and sews into 
>the articles wanted.
>Work done by steam power is not so neat; the selvages are not well 
>made, and the goods must be cut and sewed in seams. Many women are 
>employed in hosiery manufactures where steam is used.

      Is this an advertisement for ladies to buy this machine and use 
it at home?  It's a bit confusing considering they mention steam 
power.  Having to cut the yardgoods to shape does not seem like 
knitting the perfect stocking.

>From:
>The new American cyclopaedia: a popular dictionary of general 
>knowledge. Ed. by George Ripley and Charles A. Dana ...
>Ripley, George, ed. Dana, Charles A. ed. (Charles AndersonNew York 
>[etc]: D. Appleton and company1859-1863.
>
>Stocking:
>The shaping of the web to fit the foot is matter of no little 
>ingenuity. The flat web is either knit in long strips of sufficient 
>width to make when turned over several stockings which are cut out 
>from the web.

      And this was common?  What I've seen in machine-made originals 
is cotton stockings getting finer and finer, as the spinning and the 
knitting machines become finer.  Clocking is done with openwork 
stitches, which becomes more and more subtle as the gauge gets finer. 
The examples I've seen are knit to shape and seamed up the back, 
which I can tell because the seam allowance is very tiny - a stitch 
or two wide.

>From:
>The Hosiery Resource Centre
>
>Full-fashioned stockings are knitted flat, than fashioned, or 
>shaped, by hand manipulation and hand seamed up the back.

      That seems to say the shaping is done after the knitting.  The 
earlier machines did require hand-manipulation to make the increases 
and decreases, but that was on the machine as each row was knit. 
These days full-fashioned means the item was shaped as it was knitted 
and then assembled.  I'm not sure what the meaning was at the time 
this was written.

>Knitting is back and forth across the fabric (weft knitting) on a 
>straight-bar machine invented by William Cotton in 1864. The 
>stocking is started at the top with the welt, an extra-thick section 
>for gartering. The fabric is shaped by reducing the number of 
>needles at the ankle, then adding needles at the heel, and again 
>reducing the number through the foot.

      So this one is shaped by the machine, not shaped by cutting.

>   Seamless stockings are knitted on circular machines, brought out 
>in the mid-19th century. For many years such stockings were a 
>straight, knitted tube that did not fit as well as the 
>full-fashioned, because stitches cannot be added or dropped in 
>circular knitting by machine. (I've seen reference to these as 
>"leg-bags", obviously not a compliment in an age which prized a trim 
>ankle!)

      The circular machine was first seen in the 1790s, first used for 
hats.  The earliest stockings I've seen (extant) are dated 1840. 
(I'm not sure when this type was first made, but the machine 
capability was there earlier).  Anyway, these 1840 stockings are 
quite interesting - the foot is seamed with the typical flap heel, 
and there is a dart taken in the ankle/lower calf area for shaping. 
The other unique thing - the few examples I saw have the design 
printed on rather than embroidered or knit in.  It's curious that 
someone in 1840 would think to do this, but it was not done later. 
But these things happen.

      Another thing I noticed developing in the 19thC - reinforcement 
threads added to the heel.  I'm not sure if that is something 
reenactors do for the Civil War era.

>  I agree that modern knit fabric is stretchier than that found in 
>earlier periods, based on the originals I have been able to examine. 
>However, with this method I am able to mimic the technique used in 
>the period with 100% natural materials and end up with a product 
>that fits and is closer to period stockings than anything currently 
>being offered by vendors - it works for me

      I heard that someone was knitting stockings on some sort of 
machine for Civil War reenactment use.  But then he stopped for some 
reason?

      Making them from knit yardgoods is a good way to get something 
better, short of handknitting.  Since the original question was about 
18th century, it may or may not be perfectly authentic - depends on 
the decade being reproduced.

      -Carol
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Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 01:47:21 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: knitting stockings
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Kathleen said,
>I have a friend who "does" 18th Century.  She is currently knitting 
>stockings on a wooden frame about 8" diameter.  This is set with 
>wooden pegs and the fiber is worked in much the same manner as the 
>Knitty-knobby one might use to make cording.  She says that one can 
>even turn a heel!!

      People have been looking for info on this as an early practice. 
"Frame knit" stockings in the 18th century meant they were made on a 
machine that was invented by Reverend Lee in the 16thC.  There is a 
small item that may have been used as a frame to knit purses, but no 
evidence yet on peg frames being used for stockings.

      -Carol
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: drawers
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On Wed, 11 Jan 2006, Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

> Robin wrote:
> 
> > Just as one data
> > point, I routinely go without underwear when in costume,
> 
> Too much information!! Too much information!!
> 
> I prefer not to know who is "going commando" in my vicinity.

Sorry -- given the topic (whether cold weather requires drawers), I didn't
see any other way to phrase it to establish that I was speaking of
findings from personal experiment rather than simply hypothetically!

Enough years doing theatre, not to mention more years pushing around
people's soft bits for purposes of costume, and you get a rather skewed
sense of modesty. It's all rather clinical to me now, as anyone who has
survived one of my fittings can testify.

Of course, I'm also the person who routinely instructs women to remove
their panties during dress fittings because the elastic waistband
interferes with the action of the fabric on the figure. Funny how obvious
this is, and yet how many people fail to realize what's causing a tummy
roll or hip roll ... which disappears the moment the modern underpinnings
go away.

--Robin


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Well, the only reference I have ever seen to women's menses or the 
items associated with it, was in Philip Stubbes "Anatomy of Abuses" 
(can't remember the page # off the top of my head) when he referred 
to someone as a "menstrous clout".  I would hazard a guess that there 
might be other references hidden in odd places like Stubbes but they 
will take some dedicated digging.

It's funny, for me, this reference always started a word association 
"game" in my brain which ended with visions of a nappy/diaper like 
arrangement.  I freely admit that there is no basis in fact that I 
have been able to discover, for this idea but the word "clout" just 
always triggered a train of thought that at some point ran through 
"breech clout" and ended with the nappy/diaper image.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 11:23 AM 1/10/2006, you wrote:
>This leads me to ask, and please do not take offense anyone... How did 16th
>women deal with their monthly courses without underpants? Rags, I know, but
>how were they held up? This part of clothing never seems to be dealt with,
>though the Costume Society of America  ("Dress") once had an article on 19th
>C. inovations.
>
>Dame Catriona MacDuff
>Interested in 16th C. womens issues

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Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 01:47:27 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval quote on underwear
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Well, I certainly am not in any position to debate the validity of 
the "mini Ice Age" theory but, I have spent the weekend at an event 
in an English castle and I can tell you they are still damp.  As for 
cold I still hold that it is a matter of perspective I grew up in 
Ottawa, Canada and to me living in Manchester, England for a year was 
delightfully warm!  On the other hand, I currently live in Minnesota 
and I'm constantly freezing. <G>  The one thing I did learn growing 
up with cold winters was lots of layers was the way to keep warm and 
if you look at historical clothing the first thing you encounter 
is...lots of layers.

Anyway, as other people of mentioned, menstruation and preparing for 
it is something we no almost nothing about in any historical 
period.  It is a topic that belongs solely to women, and very few 
women's voices survive the ages to reach us, and almost none on any 
personal topics.  This is knowledge that has always passed from 
mother to daughter, and is usually viewed as an "unclean" topic by 
men.  I think that Stubbes is a perfect example of that.  The only 
reference I have ever encountered and he is using it to insult 
someone by calling them a "menstrous clout".  Either way, that does 
give us at least a bit of information that our mother's or 
grandmother's "rags" probably wasn't far off the mark.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 01:40 PM 1/10/2006, you wrote:
>But Danielle, I was under the impression with reading and the 
>History Channel, that during the Medieval and Renaissance periods 
>Europe was going through what historians/scientists considered a 
>"mini Ice Age".  Plus, my finace' who was stationed in Europe has 
>mentioned that when he was involved with Ren faires and the like 
>that the castles were quite chilly.
>
>Since, I am a newbie when it comes to period underwear.  What did 
>women do during their monthly cycles?  And why was it more common 
>for men to wear underwear and not women?
>
>I betcha I'm going to be quite embarassed by the obvious reasons.  :-)
>
>Roscelin
>
> > Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com> wrote
> > >Greetings!
> > >
> > >Welcome to the 16th century, a fun and exciting place. <G>  Drawers
> > >arrived in England during Elizabeth's reign but were considered
> > >novelties and "foreign."  They weren't adopted as regular wear until
> > >later.  I've lived in England (as well as Canada and the US) and didn't
> > >find it that cold at all, so I think it is all a matter of perspective.
> > >Certainly once you have all the correct layers on, drawers aren't going
> > >to make much difference except for possibly during activities like
> > >horseback riding.  However, having seen 16th century sidesaddles
> > >(rather odd looking contraptions - one was round and perfectly flat
> > >with a peg sticking up for the leg to hook over) even then the drawers
> > >would be rather immaterial.
> > >
> > >Cheers,
> > >Danielle
> > >
> > >At 11:53 PM 1/8/2006, you wrote:
> > >>Um, I have a rank newbie question. I was always told that 
> ladies didn't  wear
> > >>drawers in this period. Is that a myth, or a regional thing, possibly? I
> > >>usually do English.
> > >>
> > >>And I've always suspected that it couldn't be true. I've BEEN 
> to England.  It
> > >>gets COLD there.
> > >>
> > >>Thanks for your forbearance,
> > >>Tea Rose

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] This year's calendar selection: cows in costumes
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At 08:12 AM 1/11/2006, you wrote:
>To satisfy my calendar urge, I ended up getting the new calendar from 
>Chick-Fil-A, which is medieval and renaissance cows.  The reticulated 
>hennin one isn't too bad.
>
>"Cows in shining armor"
>http://www.shopchick-fil-a.com/index.cfm/act/Catalog.cfm/catalogid/74/category/Bookstore/browse/null/MenuGroup/Home/desc/2006%20Chick%252Dfil%252DA%25AE%20Calendar%3CBR%3E%2593Cows%20In%20Shining%20Armor%2594.htm 
>


Oh thank you for sharing this one. I have to get the calendar, even tho I 
have no idea what a Chick-Fil-A store is. I just loved April's Boldhoof in 
kilt and claymore, and August's Kobe Kowsumoto. I was rolling in laughter.

Kimiko

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Thank you to Beth for sending me the digests (22-27). 
I noticed this morning that I got 31 and then sometime
later 30, so summat weird is going on...

Katherine

"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright


	
	
		
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I bought it for a friend here in Canada.  He was thrilled as his wife had even phoned the company to see if she could get the calendar.  The Company said they would not ship it to Canada as the coupons were no good here but for some reason online they ship it anywhere you want it to go.  Who wants the coupons???
   
  Brin Kendall

Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com> wrote:
  At 08:12 AM 1/11/2006, you wrote:
>To satisfy my calendar urge, I ended up getting the new calendar from 
>Chick-Fil-A, which is medieval and renaissance cows. The reticulated 
>hennin one isn't too bad.
>
>"Cows in shining armor"
>http://www.shopchick-fil-a.com/index.cfm/act/Catalog.cfm/catalogid/74/category/Bookstore/browse/null/MenuGroup/Home/desc/2006%20Chick%252Dfil%252DA%25AE%20Calendar%3CBR%3E%2593Cows%20In%20Shining%20Armor%2594.htm 
>


Oh thank you for sharing this one. I have to get the calendar, even tho I 
have no idea what a Chick-Fil-A store is. I just loved April's Boldhoof in 
kilt and claymore, and August's Kobe Kowsumoto. I was rolling in laughter.

Kimiko

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Kimiko Small wrote:
> Oh thank you for sharing this one. I have to get the calendar, even tho 
> I have no idea what a Chick-Fil-A store is.

It's a fast-food store specializing in chicken and fries; often seen in 
malls.  They've had cows as their mascots for a while, usually with 
awkwardly-lettered signs which say "Eat More Chicken!"

The calendars can be bought from the stores, directly, but no price savings.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: knitting stockings
Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 09:20:31 -0500
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Ah, but I mentioned yesterday that I have a friend who
 has a circular wooden Frame on which she makes  no- seam stockings for
herself and her man.  She was working on a pair at Christmas time.  Her era
for reenactment is the 18th century.  As a spinner and weaver, she is very
fussy to maintain traditional fiber arts for her time period.  This frame
method can even manipulate the turning of a heel.

Now I do not know how early this style of knitting was known, but the
concept is basically simple and could have been fashioned by any cottage
crafter as a means of producing leg wear, hats and neck scarves.

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Carol Kocian" <aquazoo@patriot.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 1:47 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: knitting stockings


> Kathleen said,
> >I have a friend who "does" 18th Century.  She is currently knitting
> >stockings on a wooden frame about 8" diameter.  This is set with
> >wooden pegs and the fiber is worked in much the same manner as the
> >Knitty-knobby one might use to make cording.  She says that one can
> >even turn a heel!!
>
>       People have been looking for info on this as an early practice.
> "Frame knit" stockings in the 18th century meant they were made on a
> machine that was invented by Reverend Lee in the 16thC.  There is a
> small item that may have been used as a frame to knit purses, but no
> evidence yet on peg frames being used for stockings.
>
>       -Carol
> _______________________________________________
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Its about 55 dollars for a fine linen 56 inches wide.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 12:15 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] att. Bjarne


> Roughly what is that in American dollars and inches. :)
> Actually, how do you get to the site with the linens?
> 
> De
> 
> -----Original Message-----
>  You can get it at Broderi Antik for 399 dkr a meter. it is about 140 cm
> wide.
> 
>  Hope you can use this info
> 
>  Tania
> 
> 
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And my pocket book goes OUCH! :)
Thank you,
De

-----Original Message-----
Its about 55 dollars for a fine linen 56 inches wide.

Bjarne


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPKEMLFJAA.otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] att. Bjarne
Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 16:26:49 +0100
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Hi,
Ok, but i can asure you compared to the linen i imported from Rotterdam that 
i made my 18th century shirt of, wich costed me doubble as much, it is 
outstanding quality wich i really thoaght would be hopeless to get anymore.
I will happily give this, for that quality!

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 4:14 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] att. Bjarne


> And my pocket book goes OUCH! :)
> Thank you,
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Its about 55 dollars for a fine linen 56 inches wide.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
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	<000401c6170e$0c5b5150$6501a8c0@athlon2500>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kensington Palace
Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 16:36:11 +0100
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Hi Joy,
I wish you the best of enjoying this. You wont regret it.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joy Shillaker" <joy@c17th.org>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 1:20 AM
Subject: [h-cost] kensington Palace


> Thankyou Bjarne, Kensington palace sounds perfect!
> I'm not even going to see if they have a website so it will all be a 
> lovely suprise.
>
> regards
> Joy
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Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 10:32:44 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: knitting stockings
From: aquazoo@patriot.net
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Hi Kathleen,

     My area of study is 18th century hosiery, and I was doing reenactment
of that era for about 18 years.  Knitting needles  are an even
simpler tool, and can deal with different sizes of items.  As a
cottage industry, that's all a knitter would need.  Some homes did
have a knitting frame.

     We don't have extant wooden frames from that era except for possibly
the purse frames, and no artwork or descriptions of that method. 
Until we do, it counts as experimental archeology.  If she does have
information, there are many people who would like to know about it! 
We've talked about it on the HistoricKnit list, and I think there is
also a new list for peg-frame knitters.

     Can the peg frame increase or decrease for the calf and ankle?  That
is a feature of 18th century hosiery, whether it's hand knit or
framework.

     -Carol


> Ah, but I mentioned yesterday that I have a friend who
>  has a circular wooden Frame on which she makes  no- seam stockings for
> herself and her man.  She was working on a pair at Christmas time.  Her
> era for reenactment is the 18th century.  As a spinner and weaver, she
is very
> fussy to maintain traditional fiber arts for her time period.  This frame
> method can even manipulate the turning of a heel.
>
> Now I do not know how early this style of knitting was known, but the
> concept is basically simple and could have been fashioned by any cottage
> crafter as a means of producing leg wear, hats and neck scarves.
>
> Kathleen
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Carol Kocian" <aquazoo@patriot.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 1:47 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: knitting stockings
>
>
>> Kathleen said,
>> >I have a friend who "does" 18th Century.  She is currently knitting
>> >stockings on a wooden frame about 8" diameter.  This is set with
>> >wooden pegs and the fiber is worked in much the same manner as the
>> >Knitty-knobby one might use to make cording.  She says that one can
>> >even turn a heel!!
>>
>>       People have been looking for info on this as an early practice.
>> "Frame knit" stockings in the 18th century meant they were made on a
>> machine that was invented by Reverend Lee in the 16thC.  There is a
>> small item that may have been used as a frame to knit purses, but no
>> evidence yet on peg frames being used for stockings.
>>
>>       -Carol


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval quote on underwear
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> I have spent the weekend at an event
> in an English castle and I can tell you they are still damp.

Were there any fires inside? Most of the castles we visited in France
were damp and cold, but twice we visited castles where the chimneys
had been restored so they'd made a fire inside - makes a whole world
of difference. They would still be cold in the winter, though...

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] att. Bjarne
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At 15:26 12/01/2006, you wrote:
>Hi,
>Ok, but i can asure you compared to the linen i imported from 
>Rotterdam that i made my 18th century shirt of, wich costed me 
>doubble as much, it is outstanding quality wich i really thoaght 
>would be hopeless to get anymore.
>I will happily give this, for that quality!


Bjarne

Do you have an address for this? I have a friend in Copenhagen who 
will be visiting in a few weeks, and could maybe bring me some. You 
can mail me off list if you like.

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] att. Bjarne
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Hi Suzi,
Its no problem. Here is their website, even in english:
http://www.broderiantik.dk/english/index.html

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 4:41 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] att. Bjarne


> At 15:26 12/01/2006, you wrote:
>>Hi,
>>Ok, but i can asure you compared to the linen i imported from 
>>Rotterdam that i made my 18th century shirt of, wich costed me 
>>doubble as much, it is outstanding quality wich i really thoaght 
>>would be hopeless to get anymore.
>>I will happily give this, for that quality!
> 
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> Do you have an address for this? I have a friend in Copenhagen who 
> will be visiting in a few weeks, and could maybe bring me some. You 
> can mail me off list if you like.
> 
> Suzi
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: 18th cent circular peg knitting
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At 8:56 AM -0700 1/12/06, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>I have a friend who
>  has a circular wooden Frame on which she makes  no- seam stockings for
>herself and her man.  She was working on a pair at Christmas time.  Her era
>for reenactment is the 18th century.  As a spinner and weaver, she is very
>fussy to maintain traditional fiber arts for her time period.  This frame
>method can even manipulate the turning of a heel.
>Now I do not know how early this style of knitting was known, but the
>concept is basically simple and could have been fashioned by any cottage
>crafter as a means of producing leg wear, hats and neck scarves.

But it's not commonly mentioned nor pictured in any 18th cent sources 
I've seen (and I've been looking!)...there was a knitting frame--much 
more like a modern flat bed machine...If you have sources PLEASE 
PLEASE share!!!! I wanna know!!! Tho I fear this may be yet another 
case of they shoulda but they didn't :-(
Ta
Carol--knitting away on the forever socks (18th cent, combed, 
worsted, 2 ply blue/white ragg, ~12spi, ooooo needles)
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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"Menstrous clout"

Just to add to your mental games, a clout is also a medieval shoemaking 
term, probably for patching, or adding a new outer sole over a damaged sole.

Marc


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I just bought and made that pattern in November, and found that there were several corrections to pattern pieces, directions left off in some places, and at one place outright wrong directions.  Off the top, I cannot remember what I had to do to make it work, so I guess I cannot be of much help.  I do remember fighting with the collar, however, and it seems to me that doing what made sense at the time was the right thing to do.   
 
I would not recommend this pattern for someone who is not already familiar with basic construction techniques for this type of garment.
 
~Kimberley
 
-----Original Message-----
From: A & J Garden <garden@earthlydelights.com.au>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 17:04:55 +1100
Subject: [h-cost] margo pattern question


Does anyone here have Margos Elizabethan gentlemens pattern? I've asked on Margos list but can't get an answer - I'm pretty sure there is a correction that needs to be done to the neck of the mens doublet but I haven't got that page - can anyone here enlighten me? 
Thanks in advance, Aylwen 
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Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 13:15:09 -0500
From: "Kathy Hoover" <khoover@wvu.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Mother Ginger
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Hi Mary,  Becky, and anyone who has any ideas,

I just finished "Nutcracker" before Christmas and Mother Ginger was an extreme problem.  I had asked this list for suggestions in mid-November, but only got one or two replies about using plastic plumbing pipe.  That is what we ended up doing, but the results were less than wonderful.  It is first on my list of what to tackle the next time we do it.  Our dancer sat on top of a 4-foot aluminum ladder that was not-too-securely attached to a platform on wheels (casters).  The panniers were dropped over the ladder, she crawled up the ladder and wiggled down in.  They were pinned as securely as we could around her waist using upholstery strapping and we also had suspenders attached.  I wish we would have thought of the backbrace--good idea!  Then we dropped the skirt over her head (which was in several rather poorly connected pieces), an apron, bodice with cape sleeves, collar, and she wore an outlandish yellow wig.  The panniers were approximately 4' by 7'.  The size was based o!
 n the very cramped back stage space we had in our theater.  We had to be able to fit in 14 six to nine-year-old 'Bon-Bons' and also another teenage girl who literally pushed the whole contraption on stage from underneath!  Much of this was leftover technology from what had been done in previous years when I was not with them.  Two of us had to dress Mother in the wings in only the ambient light coming from the stage.  It was very, very shaky to say the least and I am so glad that we got through a Tech, a Dress, and 3 performances without a major mishap.  

You have already given me some new ideas.  I like the idea of the bottom row being a C-shape to let the dancers out--but then how did the pipe keep its shape and not collapse on itself?  We used plumbing connectors and put crosswise braces of pipe at the long ends of the ovals.  It kept the ovals from twisting, but it was not enough to keep the panniers from sagging under the weight of the skirt.  You mentioned having put upright pipe every 2 feet.  I can see that this would give good support, but then how did you get it to bend into an oval?  We only used the upholstery strapping to connect the 3 horizontal rows of pipe.  I knew this was a problem, but we couldn't come up with a better answer in the time we had left.  

You mentioned that you thought San Francisco had completely built a stationary frame onto a platform.  I'm going to contemplate this one--because this may be the sturdiest idea in the long run.  Our greatest problem there would be storing it in the off season--costume and prop space in the back of the ballet studio is very limited.  Is this link below the Mother Ginger costume you saw?  

http://www.voiceofdance.com/Insights/features.test.cfm?LinkID=31500000000000174

I just love this!  In my research on the 'Net for ideas, this was my absolute favorite!  A house for all the children!    

One last question--what kind of movement did Mother make on stage?  Did she just roll out on stage in a straight line and then back out?   Did she completely cross and go off on the other side?  Did she turn or make any other movements?  Our director insisted that Mother turn in a circle once--after the children were out.  I'd like to figure out a different method of locomotion than a person hidden in the skirts and pushing on all fours!

Hope you all have your creative thinking hats on today,
Thanks,
Kathy



>>> hanstar88@yahoo.com 01/11/06 10:55 AM >>>
Hi Becky,
  
  My daughter's ballet school does Nutcracker every year.  They have  a M Ginger dress that is large enough to hide about a dozen kids under  it.  You said your's is for a play, but it seems like the  construction could be similar.  They used the white plastic PVC  pipe used for plumbing to create the structure, so that it would be  rigid enough to hold its shape and hold the weight of the skirts.   It has a top piece that is oval shape and a bottom piece that is a "C"  shape (to allow the children a "door" to come out of), and then a few  upright pieces, about every 2 ft?, to hold the two together.  Then  they used one of those back braces for workers who lift heavy stuff  that has suspenders attached.  The skirt frame is attached to that  somehow (I never checked it out close up).  Then the M Ginger  dress goes over the whole kit-n-kaboodle.
  
  We went to see Nutcracker in San Francisco last month and I noticed  that their M Ginger dress frame seems to be on wheels.  The nice  thing about that is that it probably takes a lot of weight off of the  person wearing the costume and it "glides" across the stage.
  
  I have some pictures, but they don't show the framework.  Let me know if you'd like to see them.
  
  HTH,
  ~mary

h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:


Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2006 09:08:23 -0500
From: "Becky" 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise

I have to design a "Mother Ginger" costume for this Christmas play of the 
Nutcracker. I have many ideas from various sites. I see how to make the 
hoops atand out at different angles. I've thought about this since the first 
of December!!!! I work on it in my sleep. I've looked everywhere for a 
pattern to use but so far nothing is as large as I need. BUT some of the 
pictures I've found have been very helpful.
Yours has helped me to see how to put it together. Any suggestions on how to 
make the underpinning hoops or farthingale that is 2-3 yards across? It has 
to be large for that character.







«:*´`´`*:»§«.»§«:*´`´`*:».«:*´`´`*:»§«.»§«:*´`´`*:»

"Pictures of perfection, as you know, make me sick & wicked."
~ Jane Austen

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Kimiko wrote:
> Oh thank you for sharing this one. I have to get the calendar, even tho I 
> have no idea what a Chick-Fil-A store is. I just loved April's Boldhoof in 
> kilt and claymore, and August's Kobe Kowsumoto. I was rolling in laughter.

The calendar is even funnier close-up and in person, since there's a lot of 
detail you can't see in thumbnails.

Chick-Fil-A is a fast-food chicken place, slightly more upscale than KFC. 
(Disclaimer- I've never eaten there; I've only been in one last month to buy 
calendars...)  You can either buy the calendar on-line at their website or 
save on postage and get one in-store.  http://www.chickfila.com/home.asp 
The calendar comes up on the home page, and if you click on "locations" on 
the top bar, you can search for a location near you.

           -Helen/Aidan 

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From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] margo pattern question
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Bummers!  I just ordered the Gentlemen's Wardrobe
pattern set to use for my son's Faire outfit.  Is
there a better one you would recommend?  This is my
first time doing really historically accurate
costuming and I need to get it right.

--- chindora@aol.com wrote:

> I just bought and made that pattern in November, and
> found that there were several corrections to pattern
> pieces, directions left off in some places, and at
> one place outright wrong directions.  Off the top, I
> cannot remember what I had to do to make it work, so
> I guess I cannot be of much help.  I do remember
> fighting with the collar, however, and it seems to
> me that doing what made sense at the time was the
> right thing to do.   
>  
> I would not recommend this pattern for someone who
> is not already familiar with basic construction
> techniques for this type of garment.
>  
> ~Kimberley
>  
> -----Original Message-----
> From: A & J Garden <garden@earthlydelights.com.au>
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 17:04:55 +1100
> Subject: [h-cost] margo pattern question
> 
> 
> Does anyone here have Margos Elizabethan gentlemens
> pattern? I've asked on Margos list but can't get an
> answer - I'm pretty sure there is a correction that
> needs to be done to the neck of the mens doublet but
> I haven't got that page - can anyone here enlighten
> me? 
> Thanks in advance, Aylwen 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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> 


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] margo pattern question
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I've always had good luck with Margos patterns. It seems to me that no matter what pattern or company that you go with you always have to tweak something.
                                Tania Pembroke 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 10:28:30 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] margo pattern question


Bummers!  I just ordered the Gentlemen's Wardrobe
pattern set to use for my son's Faire outfit.  Is
there a better one you would recommend?  This is my
first time doing really historically accurate
costuming and I need to get it right.

--- chindora@aol.com wrote:

> I just bought and made that pattern in November, and
> found that there were several corrections to pattern
> pieces, directions left off in some places, and at
> one place outright wrong directions.  Off the top, I
> cannot remember what I had to do to make it work, so
> I guess I cannot be of much help.  I do remember
> fighting with the collar, however, and it seems to
> me that doing what made sense at the time was the
> right thing to do.   
>  
> I would not recommend this pattern for someone who
> is not already familiar with basic construction
> techniques for this type of garment.
>  
> ~Kimberley
>  
> -----Original Message-----
> From: A & J Garden <garden@earthlydelights.com.au>
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 17:04:55 +1100
> Subject: [h-cost] margo pattern question
> 
> 
> Does anyone here have Margos Elizabethan gentlemens
> pattern? I've asked on Margos list but can't get an
> answer - I'm pretty sure there is a correction that
> needs to be done to the neck of the mens doublet but
> I haven't got that page - can anyone here enlighten
> me? 
> Thanks in advance, Aylwen 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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> 


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 14:11:57 -0500 (EST)
From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: drawers
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X-Miltered: at persephone with ID 43C6AA45.009 by Joe's j-chkmail (http://j-chkmail.ensmp.fr)!

I've been quiet and watching this convresation evolve,
and honestly I have been enjoying myself. It gives
food for thought as to why these underwear, and
another Venetian pair that indeed look like men's
breeches, exist in the first place. It also further
develops the question as to why one of them is stained
in a strategic place.
I'll throw some opinions and theories out there and
see why others think... conversation fodder.

This collection is referred to as the Sicilian Bride.
Following along with the lingerie philosophy that
"it's not the contents, but the packaging that make it
sweeter" would it be a habit to "wrap the prize" of
marriage to further entice the couple into
consummation? By extension, the other pair that are
listed as undergarments:
http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/wardrobe/extdraw2.htm
and given the blatant nature of the phrase all over
them, are we back to the "underwear on women are for
enticement" theory? It also seems odd to put so much
decorative effort into a marginally functional garment
if they were not in regular use. 
I think it was Lawner that mentioned a text reference
to courtesans and prostitutes being church sanctioned
in order to try and turn the homosexual males back to
a more biblical way of life. I think there was also
mention of some women cross dressing for this very
reason - playing an erotic cross-gendering game. Would
it not be another type of erotic game to dress like a
woman but wear men's underwear underneath all that
obvious femininity?
I think too that we have to take into account the
culture these underwear are attached - Sicilian, not
Italian as many people believe. Sicily is more
attached to Spain than it is Italy at this time. I am
rather vague on both Spanish and Sicilian 16th c.
cultures to really make any comment on the commonality
of intimate undergarments for women.
I think our general ignorance on the subject of
feminine hygiene has nothing to do with it not being
written down. I suspect it's more due to it being
hidden away, my guess would be typical of the
Victorian, possibly earlier depending on the social
mores of the time and place. I have an entire book
written on childbirth and its' associated rituals in
Venice. It contains some surprisingly frank art within
it's covers. Unfortunately, since it deals with
childbirth as an event, there is no real mention of
how menses are handled in it. I would suspect though,
that if we followed the authors' original sources, we
would find more than our share of information. In all
of the primary texts that I have come across relative
to sexuality in general, the Venetians at least, are
very straightforward and have a rather colourful and
broad vocabulary covering such private topics. Looking
up "sangue" in Florios' 1611 Italian-English
Dictionary garners me a broad variety of derivatives
that can be applied to a woman's menstrual blood.
Looking up "menses" I get a period (pardon the pun)
term for a woman's monthly:
"M<e'>nstruo: a womans monethly(sic) termes, issues,
fluxes, sheddings or flowers. Also silver(?) among
Alchemists." 

Flowers?!

So they really weren't any less frank about it than we
are, really. And honestly we are just as allusive
today as they were then - that whole "period" and
"flowers" thing. Therein lies a possible explanation
as to why we know little about the topic - code words
that were used amongst familiar groups that are
meaningless to us today. Either way, it bears looking
into.

My general opinion on the stained underwear I
mentioned above is the possibility of proof of
consummation. The provenance of the garments suggests
that the woman in question was possibly not that
well-to-do, perhaps from a convent orphanage. If she
married above her station, mayhap this was her
insurance against annulment? It would seem odd to save
stained underwear in a time when            all
fabrics were too precious not to put into regular
daily use, or sell off for rags. I suppose I will know
more when I see them in person - if the stain looks
undisturbed or washed several times since their
discolouration. 

Anyway, food for thought.

Kathy

It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
For every beauty there is an eye somewhere to see it. For every truth there is an ear somewhere to hear it. For every love there is a heart somewhere to receive it.
-Ivan Panin


	

	
		
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: socks/stocking  etc.
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Hey Carol K, e-friend and sock guru,  thanks for all the info on machine/frame knit sock (what is the correct term, or are all the terms correct, but for different techniques?)
   
  The spousal unit (Corporal Dappert) bought a pair or the machine knit Civil war socks.  in coton.  they look good (to me, but I only know enought to be dangerous),  they are in natural color cotton, and have no elastic.  and very little give.  They are supremely hard to get on and off..  I'll have to dig them out and look at the heel to see what kind of heel was put in.
   
  real period socks and stocking can be a challenge for those of us in the reecacting world.....Which is why I went to not-so-authentic, but faster to produce cut from whole cloth stockings.  The have that clock, which is missing from so many commerically availble socks.  I'm still experimenting with differen fabrics for the stiffness factor.  I have a piece of wool jersey that has been washed and fulled up nicely, AND is a bit stiffer.  Do you know what the frequency is of stockings done in wool, but not knitted (Just general is good...)
   
  MIa in Charlotte, headed to Cowpens SC, where she won't be needing ANY stockings cause the weather here is in the 60s
   
   

		
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At 16:23 12/01/2006, you wrote:
>Hi Suzi,
>Its no problem. Here is their website, even in english:
>http://www.broderiantik.dk/english/index.html
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>>At 15:26 12/01/2006, you wrote:
>>>Hi,
>>>Ok, but i can asure you compared to the linen i imported from 
>>>Rotterdam that i made my 18th century shirt of, wich costed me 
>>>doubble as much, it is outstanding quality wich i really thoaght 
>>>would be hopeless to get anymore.
>>>I will happily give this, for that quality!
>>
>>Bjarne
>>Do you have an address for this? I have a friend in Copenhagen who 
>>will be visiting in a few weeks, and could maybe bring me some. You 
>>can mail me off list if you like.
>>Suzi


Thank you so much I was just talking with my friend, and she is 
coming over in about 4 weeks, so that gives her long enough to go and 
have a look and maybe buy some, or get a sample.

Suzi


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Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 11:58:44 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: socks/stocking  etc.
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>   real period socks and stocking can be a challenge for those of us in 
> the reecacting world.....Which is why I went to not-so-authentic, but 
> faster to produce cut from whole cloth stockings.  The have that clock, 
> which is missing from so many commerically availble socks.  I'm still 
> experimenting with differen fabrics for the stiffness factor.  I have a 
> piece of wool jersey that has been washed and fulled up nicely, AND is a 
> bit stiffer.  Do you know what the frequency is of stockings done in 
> wool, but not knitted (Just general is good...)

I'm not much of a knitter, but I have a book called "Folk Socks", which has 
every kind of heel I ever say, and several I never did before, all with 
knitting instructions for them.  (I haven't been following this thread, so 
I don't know if this book has been mentioned.)  It also has many kinds of 
toe, also with instructions.  These might go as far back as the early 
1700s, or possibly the late late 1600s.  I also have Mr. Rutts book on the 
history of hand knitting, and that has lots of pictures of SCA-able knitted 
pieces, including the socks Eleanor of Toledo was buried in, and a pair of 
knitted Pluderhosen! (Really.  They're amazing.)


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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This is the second list I am on with similar discussions going on, about 
different eras, but I was getting them confused til I realised it was 
different lists.  LOL

Now I'm going to make sure to ask my mom how she dealt with it as a 
young girl in the Poor 30s.   her family was quite poor so They could 
have easily been using methods which were 30 or so years old.

  Thanks for the impetus, I might never have thought to wonder til she 
was gone.   Kitty

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On Jan 12, 2006, at 11:11 AM, Kathy Page wrote:

> I've been quiet and watching this convresation evolve,
> and honestly I have been enjoying myself. It gives
> food for thought as to why these underwear, and
> another Venetian pair that indeed look like men's
> breeches, exist in the first place. It also further
> develops the question as to why one of them is stained
> in a strategic place.

<snip -- just for context>

I'd like to note that the conclusion "medieval European women are  
portrayed wearing underpants only as a symbolic appropriation of  
masculinity" applies specifically to the medieval era.  By the 16th  
century in both Italy and Spain (somewhat earlier in Spain than  
Italy) the social rules had clearly shifted.  And outside Europe, the  
"pants=masculinity" equation can't be assumed at all.

Heather

--
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net
http://www.heatherrosejones.com
LJ:hrj


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Hello everyone:

Maybe people have seen these already, but as fate would have it, I just 
came across an illustration and a model of stocking frames at this site, 
the Science & Society Picture Library London, which includes 30,000 images 
from the Science Museum, National Railway Museum, and National Museum of 
Photography, Film and Television.

(I hope that "Digbig" comes through for me - I'm trying to learn to use it 
more and the url was enormous!)

1750's: http://digbig.com/4fxwq
Caption:
Engraving taken from the Universal Magazine showing three textile workers 
spinning yarn, winding bobbins and using a stocking frame to knit woollen 
stockings.

1770's: http://digbig.com/4fxwr

This knitting machine, although made in about 1770, is similar to the 
original frame invented by Reverend William Lee in 1589. Knitting, when a 
surface is made by interlooping a single thread with itself, is the second 
principle method of fabric manufacture. A knitted cloth is extensible in 
every direction, and will fit the body in a way impossible with woven 
fabric. The original stocking frame of 1589 was a remarkably complicated 
machine for its time and employed, for the first time, the spring needles 
and other devices still used today.

If that doesn't work, try a search using "stockings" at: 
http://www.ingenious.org.uk/See/

The work that international museums, libraries, historical societies (not 
to forget individuals) in putting up image databases is absolutely brilliant.

Sheridan Alder


At 10:32 AM 1/12/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi Kathleen,
>
>      My area of study is 18th century hosiery, and I was doing reenactment
>of that era for about 18 years.  Knitting needles  are an even
>simpler tool, and can deal with different sizes of items.  As a
>cottage industry, that's all a knitter would need.  Some homes did
>have a knitting frame.
>
>      We don't have extant wooden frames from that era except for possibly
>the purse frames, and no artwork or descriptions of that method.
>Until we do, it counts as experimental archeology.  If she does have
>information, there are many people who would like to know about it!
>We've talked about it on the HistoricKnit list, and I think there is
>also a new list for peg-frame knitters.
>
>      Can the peg frame increase or decrease for the calf and ankle?  That
>is a feature of 18th century hosiery, whether it's hand knit or
>framework.
>
>      -Carol
>
>
> > Ah, but I mentioned yesterday that I have a friend who
> >  has a circular wooden Frame on which she makes  no- seam stockings for
> > herself and her man.  She was working on a pair at Christmas time.  Her
> > era for reenactment is the 18th century.  As a spinner and weaver, she
>is very
> > fussy to maintain traditional fiber arts for her time period.  This frame
> > method can even manipulate the turning of a heel.
> >
> > Now I do not know how early this style of knitting was known, but the
> > concept is basically simple and could have been fashioned by any cottage
> > crafter as a means of producing leg wear, hats and neck scarves.
> >
> > Kathleen
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Carol Kocian" <aquazoo@patriot.net>
> > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 1:47 AM
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: knitting stockings
> >
> >
> >> Kathleen said,
> >> >I have a friend who "does" 18th Century.  She is currently knitting
> >> >stockings on a wooden frame about 8" diameter.  This is set with
> >> >wooden pegs and the fiber is worked in much the same manner as the
> >> >Knitty-knobby one might use to make cording.  She says that one can
> >> >even turn a heel!!
> >>
> >>       People have been looking for info on this as an early practice.
> >> "Frame knit" stockings in the 18th century meant they were made on a
> >> machine that was invented by Reverend Lee in the 16thC.  There is a
> >> small item that may have been used as a frame to knit purses, but no
> >> evidence yet on peg frames being used for stockings.
> >>
> >>       -Carol
>
>
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From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Italian Underwear
Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 22:29:00 -0800
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Clout is an old word for cloth.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Danielle Nunn-Weinberg
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 11:30 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Italian Underwear


Well, the only reference I have ever seen to women's menses or the 
items associated with it, was in Philip Stubbes "Anatomy of Abuses" 
(can't remember the page # off the top of my head) when he referred 
to someone as a "menstrous clout".  I would hazard a guess that there 
might be other references hidden in odd places like Stubbes but they 
will take some dedicated digging.

It's funny, for me, this reference always started a word association 
"game" in my brain which ended with visions of a nappy/diaper like 
arrangement.  I freely admit that there is no basis in fact that I 
have been able to discover, for this idea but the word "clout" just 
always triggered a train of thought that at some point ran through 
"breech clout" and ended with the nappy/diaper image.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 11:23 AM 1/10/2006, you wrote:
>This leads me to ask, and please do not take offense anyone... How did 
>16th women deal with their monthly courses without underpants? Rags, I 
>know, but how were they held up? This part of clothing never seems to 
>be dealt with, though the Costume Society of America  ("Dress") once 
>had an article on 19th C. inovations.
>
>Dame Catriona MacDuff
>Interested in 16th C. womens issues

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Mother Ginger
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It seems that the person who played "Mother M" in that picture is a guy.
That would really help, because they really are larger and stronger
(usually) and so can drag a heavy contraption more easily. Also, extra
height on the part of the actor means extra head room underneath.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Kathy Hoover
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 10:15 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Mother Ginger


Hi Mary,  Becky, and anyone who has any ideas,

I just finished "Nutcracker" before Christmas and Mother Ginger was an
extreme problem.  I had asked this list for suggestions in mid-November, but
only got one or two replies about using plastic plumbing pipe.  That is what
we ended up doing, but the results were less than wonderful.  It is first on
my list of what to tackle the next time we do it.  Our dancer sat on top of
a 4-foot aluminum ladder that was not-too-securely attached to a platform on
wheels (casters).  The panniers were dropped over the ladder, she crawled up
the ladder and wiggled down in.  They were pinned as securely as we could
around her waist using upholstery strapping and we also had suspenders
attached.  I wish we would have thought of the backbrace--good idea!  Then
we dropped the skirt over her head (which was in several rather poorly
connected pieces), an apron, bodice with cape sleeves, collar, and she wore
an outlandish yellow wig.  The panniers were approximately 4' by 7'.  The
size was based o!  n the very cramped back stage space we had in our
theater.  We had to be able to fit in 14 six to nine-year-old 'Bon-Bons' and
also another teenage girl who literally pushed the whole contraption on
stage from underneath!  Much of this was leftover technology from what had
been done in previous years when I was not with them.  Two of us had to
dress Mother in the wings in only the ambient light coming from the stage.
It was very, very shaky to say the least and I am so glad that we got
through a Tech, a Dress, and 3 performances without a major mishap.  

You have already given me some new ideas.  I like the idea of the bottom row
being a C-shape to let the dancers out--but then how did the pipe keep its
shape and not collapse on itself?  We used plumbing connectors and put
crosswise braces of pipe at the long ends of the ovals.  It kept the ovals
from twisting, but it was not enough to keep the panniers from sagging under
the weight of the skirt.  You mentioned having put upright pipe every 2
feet.  I can see that this would give good support, but then how did you get
it to bend into an oval?  We only used the upholstery strapping to connect
the 3 horizontal rows of pipe.  I knew this was a problem, but we couldn't
come up with a better answer in the time we had left.  

You mentioned that you thought San Francisco had completely built a
stationary frame onto a platform.  I'm going to contemplate this
one--because this may be the sturdiest idea in the long run.  Our greatest
problem there would be storing it in the off season--costume and prop space
in the back of the ballet studio is very limited.  Is this link below the
Mother Ginger costume you saw?  

http://www.voiceofdance.com/Insights/features.test.cfm?LinkID=31500000000000
174

I just love this!  In my research on the 'Net for ideas, this was my
absolute favorite!  A house for all the children!    

One last question--what kind of movement did Mother make on stage?  Did she
just roll out on stage in a straight line and then back out?   Did she
completely cross and go off on the other side?  Did she turn or make any
other movements?  Our director insisted that Mother turn in a circle
once--after the children were out.  I'd like to figure out a different
method of locomotion than a person hidden in the skirts and pushing on all
fours!

Hope you all have your creative thinking hats on today,
Thanks,
Kathy



>>> hanstar88@yahoo.com 01/11/06 10:55 AM >>>
Hi Becky,
  
  My daughter's ballet school does Nutcracker every year.  They have  a M
Ginger dress that is large enough to hide about a dozen kids under  it.  You
said your's is for a play, but it seems like the  construction could be
similar.  They used the white plastic PVC  pipe used for plumbing to create
the structure, so that it would be  rigid enough to hold its shape and hold
the weight of the skirts.   It has a top piece that is oval shape and a
bottom piece that is a "C"  shape (to allow the children a "door" to come
out of), and then a few  upright pieces, about every 2 ft?, to hold the two
together.  Then  they used one of those back braces for workers who lift
heavy stuff  that has suspenders attached.  The skirt frame is attached to
that  somehow (I never checked it out close up).  Then the M Ginger  dress
goes over the whole kit-n-kaboodle.
  
  We went to see Nutcracker in San Francisco last month and I noticed  that
their M Ginger dress frame seems to be on wheels.  The nice  thing about
that is that it probably takes a lot of weight off of the  person wearing
the costume and it "glides" across the stage.
  
  I have some pictures, but they don't show the framework.  Let me know if
you'd like to see them.
  
  HTH,
  ~mary

h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:


Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2006 09:08:23 -0500
From: "Becky" 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise

I have to design a "Mother Ginger" costume for this Christmas play of the 
Nutcracker. I have many ideas from various sites. I see how to make the 
hoops atand out at different angles. I've thought about this since the first

of December!!!! I work on it in my sleep. I've looked everywhere for a 
pattern to use but so far nothing is as large as I need. BUT some of the 
pictures I've found have been very helpful.
Yours has helped me to see how to put it together. Any suggestions on how to

make the underpinning hoops or farthingale that is 2-3 yards across? It has 
to be large for that character.







«:*´`´`*:»§«.»§«:*´`´`*:».«:*´`´`*:»§«.»§«:*´`´`*:»

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~ Jane Austen

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Carol wrote:

 

>Ok, I'm convinced the cut-from-yardgoods stockings existed. 
>Come to think of it, there is a stocking I looked at from around 1880 
>that fit the category - one of the fancy knit fabrics that probably 
>could not have been done any other way.

     > However, I thought you said the cut & sewn were the most common 
>for mid-19th century.  I have not seen that in extant stockings in 
>museum collections.  There are certainly hand-knit stockings, and 
>those that are knit to shape.

 

I never said they were the most common, I said they were the best available option; documented period technique using period appropriate fibers.

 

What dating criteria have you been using in your examinations? As you previously stated this was not a period technique, perhaps you misinterpreted what you were examining. Also, we are all aware that the items in museums tend to be representative of those fine, expensive items of the upper classes as opposed to the common everyday items of the middle or lower classes, which were usually used and reused until nothing was left. 

 

The employments of women also states that one single factory was employing 700 women to sew stockings, unfortunately it does not state how many per day they could complete, but that's a very large workforce for the time period - there most have been a demand for the product. 

>From
>The employments of women: a cyclopaedia of woman's work./ By Virginia Penny.
>Penny, Virginia, b. 1826.Penny, Virginia,  How women can make money.
>Boston: Walker, Wise, & Company1863.
>
>Hosiers:
>A knitting machine has been invented in Seneca, N. Y., that is said 
>to knit a perfect stocking in less than five minutes. Aikens's 
>knitting machines are very popular. We have thought ladies would do 
>well to try them, and devote themselves to making up hosiery. We' 
>doubt not but it would pay very well. - The cloth is knit in a 
>straight piece, and another lady cuts it into shape and sews into 
>the articles wanted.
>Work done by steam power is not so neat; the selvages are not well 
>made, and the goods must be cut and sewed in seams. Many women are 
>employed in hosiery manufactures where steam is used.

>      Is this an advertisement for ladies to buy this machine and use 
>it at home?  It's a bit confusing considering they mention steam 
>power.  Having to cut the yardgoods to shape does not seem like 
>knitting the perfect stocking.

 

The Aiken's machine was hand-cranked and focused towards home manufacture.

 

Steam power was used in the factories. There were issues with converting machinery originally intended for hand power to steam power. The steam power was so powerful (if not properly regulated) that the older equipment frequently did not function optimally - it simply couldn't keep up. I suspect in knitted goods, it led to imperfect knitting, obviously especially along the selvedges


>      I heard that someone was knitting stockings on some sort of 
>machine for Civil War reenactment use.  But then he stopped for some 
>reason?

 

I believe Mickey Childs (not sure I'm remembering the name correctly) was making men's socks and there was some controversy on the heel construction. I'm not aware of anyone ever making correct machine knit ladies stockings.


I personally don't knit and am not in a position to pay some a reasonable fee for the time and energy it would take for them to handknit a pair of stockings (pet peeve of mine - too many people doing intricate handwork price their items too low, they don't place a respectable value on their time, talent, knowledge, etc.). So again, I feel comfortable reproducing a period technique with the best available approximation of a period textile.

Kelly Dorman
Backward Glances
www.backwardglances.net 


      Making them from knit yardgoods is a good way to get something 
better, short of handknitting.  Since the original question was about 
18th century, it may or may not be perfectly authentic - depends on 
the decade being reproduced.

      -Carol


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I have never really used commercial patterns for historical costuming, but have drafted my own based on pictures of period pattern pieces.  When I bought this set, I was hoping for more detailed directions, perhaps more period methods of assembling the garments.  I was extremely frustrated several times, and like I said at one point the directions had me assembling a part inside out, but when it was all said and done I was thrilled with the finished outfit.  The pattern pieces, for the most part, made sense, but someone else pointed out (on Margo's site, I believe) that they did not rely on the directions and simply used the pattern pieces.  
 
<shrug>  I am not saying it is a pattern without merit, just forewarning you that it is a first run and still has mistakes.  My suggestion is that you hook up with someone else who has a good bit of sewing experience to help you over the rough spots.
 
 
:)
~Kimberley
 
-----Original Message-----
From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 10:28:30 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] margo pattern question


Bummers!  I just ordered the Gentlemen's Wardrobe
pattern set to use for my son's Faire outfit.  Is
there a better one you would recommend?  This is my
first time doing really historically accurate
costuming and I need to get it right.

--- chindora@aol.com wrote:

> I just bought and made that pattern in November, and
> found that there were several corrections to pattern
> pieces, directions left off in some places, and at
> one place outright wrong directions.  Off the top, I
> cannot remember what I had to do to make it work, so
> I guess I cannot be of much help.  I do remember
> fighting with the collar, however, and it seems to
> me that doing what made sense at the time was the
> right thing to do.   
>  
> I would not recommend this pattern for someone who
> is not already familiar with basic construction
> techniques for this type of garment.
>  
> ~Kimberley
>  
> -----Original Message-----
> From: A & J Garden <garden@earthlydelights.com.au>
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 17:04:55 +1100
> Subject: [h-cost] margo pattern question
> 
> 
> Does anyone here have Margos Elizabethan gentlemens
> pattern? I've asked on Margos list but can't get an
> answer - I'm pretty sure there is a correction that
> needs to be done to the neck of the mens doublet but
> I haven't got that page - can anyone here enlighten
> me? 
> Thanks in advance, Aylwen 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
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> 


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Mother Ginger
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Becky,
  
  I posted some pix on my site.  In the back view, you can see the  kids feet peeking out from under the dress.  Our costume doesn't  have wheels (yet), it was the San Francisco Ballet that did.
  
  http://www.quite-contrary.org/images/DSC_0479.JPG
  http://www.quite-contrary.org/images/DSC_0223.JPG
  
  The bodice is separate from the skirt, and the skirt is also in two  pieces.  The top piece is attached to the frame, while the  "skirting" (if you know what I mean) is attached by velcro just under  the top pink ruffle.  It's very heavy!
  
  They have used this costume for 10+ years, and it's looking rather down at the heels and droopy now!  :-)
  
  ~mary
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 11:12:51 -0500
From: "Becky" 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Mother Ginger

I would appreciate seeing other costumes for Mother Ginger. We want to put 
it on wheels as well. maybe I can tell from the pictures. Thanks for the 
offer.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mary" 
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:55 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Mother Ginger


> Hi Becky,
>
>  My daughter's ballet school does Nutcracker every year.  They have  a M 
> Ginger dress that is large enough to hide about a dozen kids under  it. 
> You said your's is for a play, but it seems like the  construction could 
> be similar.  They used the white plastic PVC  pipe used for plumbing to 
> create the structure, so that it would be  rigid enough to hold its shape 
> and hold the weight of the skirts.   It has a top piece that is oval shape 
> and a bottom piece that is a "C"  shape (to allow the children a "door" to 
> come out of), and then a few  upright pieces, about every 2 ft?, to hold 
> the two together.  Then  they used one of those back braces for workers 
> who lift heavy stuff  that has suspenders attached.  The skirt frame is 
> attached to that  somehow (I never checked it out close up).  Then the M 
> Ginger  dress goes over the whole kit-n-kaboodle.
>
>  We went to see Nutcracker in San Francisco last month and I noticed  that 
> their M Ginger dress frame seems to be on wheels.  The nice  thing about 
> that is that it probably takes a lot of weight off of the  person wearing 
> the costume and it "glides" across the stage.
>
>  I have some pictures, but they don't show the framework.  Let me know if 
> you'd like to see them.
>
>  HTH,
>  ~mary
>




«:*´`´`*:»§«.»§«:*´`´`*:».«:*´`´`*:»§«.»§«:*´`´`*:»

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Subject: [h-cost] Sergers & past topics
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Listies,

Can anyone take a moment to instruct me as to how to pull up our old topic 
threads? (I need the url as well) I am finally in the research phase of 
purchasing a serger, and I believe that was a recent topic here.  Any other 
resource for info on sergers would be appreciated.  I've been to many sewing 
machine sites, but they are really short on the info I'm looking for.

I've heard Juki's are good, but are they worth the hefty price tag?  I'm 
going to use it for edging costumes only, so probably don't need a lot of 
fancy stitches. I have a few criterium, in order of importance:

Size (must be small as possible, I have very limited space)
Ease of threading
Sturdiness (I am a theatrical costumer, so my machines take a beating)
Cost (would prefer not to spend over $500)

thanks!
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
Theatrical Costume Design
"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
All's Well That Ends Well 1.1.65-6, Countess to Bertram
W. Shakespeare

http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com 

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sergers & past topics
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My hobbylock 784 was purchased about 15years ago, at the time it was well 
over 1000$, but I'm sure they've come down in price.  It's been put through 
it paces working in several professional shops, carted back and forth to 
classes I've taught and is still running smooth and strong, with only a 
minor repair of a screw other than regular cleaning and timing check.
It's relatively small for a 4 thread, and easy as pie to thread!

Hope that helps!
Kelly


> Size (must be small as possible, I have very limited space)
> Ease of threading
> Sturdiness (I am a theatrical costumer, so my machines take a beating)
> Cost (would prefer not to spend over $500)
>
> thanks!
> +++++
> Angela F. Lazear
> Cabbage Rose Costumes
> Theatrical Costume Design
> "Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
> be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
> and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
> be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
> All's Well That Ends Well 1.1.65-6, Countess to Bertram
> W. Shakespeare
>
> http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: serger
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At 12:02 PM -0700 1/13/06, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>I've heard Juki's are good, but are they worth the hefty price tag?  I'm
>going to use it for edging costumes only, so probably don't need a lot of
>fancy stitches. I have a few criterium, in order of importance:
>
>Size (must be small as possible, I have very limited space)
>Ease of threading
>Sturdiness (I am a theatrical costumer, so my machines take a beating)
>Cost (would prefer not to spend over $500)

I wore out a second hand Toyota doing lots of stupid over the top 
stuff--it lasted 6+ years and cost ~$120. I then got a White from 
JoAnn's for under $200 and it is running strong--and the def. feed is 
sooo nice! And it is easy to thread at 2am with a deadline looming. 
Both are small footprint machines.
I sew heavy dog gear so YMMV. I figure that if I get 3-5 years of 
heavy use out of the White it's a good deal.
Ta
Carol still looking for a treadle powered serger like my Mennonite 
friend has...
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
_______________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2006 13:18:31 -0800 (PST)
From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: serger
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Carol - 

Have you looked at Lehman's for your treadle serger? 
They are a major supplier to the Amish community.  We
looked at them for old style cast iron kettles and I
was amazed at what they carry.

Rebecca

--- cahuff <cahuff@clearviewcatv.net> wrote:

> At 12:02 PM -0700 1/13/06,

> Ta
> Carol still looking for a treadle powered serger
> like my Mennonite 
> friend has...
> -- 
> Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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>>> cahuff@clearviewcatv.net 01/13/06 3:10 PM >>>
>Carol still looking for a treadle powered serger like my Mennonite
friend has...

I was truly intrigued by this, so I went looking.  Here's someone who
built, actually converted,  her own!
http://www.mushycat.com/wiki/index.php?n=Treadles.SergerConversion

Kathy
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	Fri, 13 Jan 2006 13:32:42 PST
Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2006 13:32:42 -0800 (PST)
From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] att. Bjarne
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hiya.
  A meter is a little bit more than a yard. 6 danish kr is about a dollar at the moment. So a bit more than a yard of this material is about 50 dollars ;-). Very expensive I know, but fabrics are expensive in Denmark since we have a 25% sales tax.
   
  Tania

otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
  Roughly what is that in American dollars and inches. :)
Actually, how do you get to the site with the linens?

De

-----Original Message-----
You can get it at Broderi Antik for 399 dkr a meter. it is about 140 cm
wide.

Hope you can use this info

Tania


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Kathy,
  
  I guess I missed your post in November, or I would have replied  then.  I have no clue how they curved the PVC pipe (the costume  was made long before my daughter was ever in Nutcracker).  I could  ask the director though, as I will see her tonight.  They used the  pipe that's about 3" diameter, so it's very stiff, it won't collapse. 
  
  Your ladder contraption sounds very precarious!  We have a tall  mom who portrays MG and she wears platform shoes to give her a bit more  height (I sent links to pix earlier today and you can see the shoes in  one of them).  With the current configuration, the whole thing  hangs off of her shoulders and she walks onto stage, does some silly  stuff (like puts on lipstick & a tiara),  spins once, and then  lets the Gingersnaps out.  She did have a mishap this year (first  time ever!) where the skirt tipped forward and she stepped on the front  hem of the skirt.  Luckily she didn't fall!  I think that  adding the wheels to the bottom of the dress frame will take most of  the weight off of her and also stabilize it.  Just have to figure  out how to attach them....
  
  The SF Ballet article link was their old production.  The whole  thing was redone last year, set in the Edwardian period (OCC -- really  lovely period costumes!!).  The MG dress has the same shape, but  now looks more like an 18th c. dress with panniers.  I was not  able to find an image online, but we did buy a program and I will look  at it tonight to see if there's an image of MG.  I suppose you  could try sending an email to SF Ballet and ask them for advice,  too.  
  
  ~mary

h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 13:15:09 -0500
From: "Kathy Hoover" 
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Mother Ginger

Hi Mary,  Becky, and anyone who has any ideas,

I  just finished "Nutcracker" before Christmas and Mother Ginger was an  extreme problem. I had asked this list for suggestions in mid-November,  but only got one or two replies about using plastic plumbing pipe. That  is what we ended up doing, but the results were less than wonderful. It  is first on my list of what to tackle the next time we do it. Our  dancer sat on top of a 4-foot aluminum ladder that was not-too-securely  attached to a platform on wheels (casters). The panniers were dropped  over the ladder, she crawled up the ladder and wiggled down in. They  were pinned as securely as we could around her waist using upholstery  strapping and we also had suspenders attached. I wish we would have  thought of the backbrace--good idea! Then we dropped the skirt over her  head (which was in several rather poorly connected pieces), an apron,  bodice with cape sleeves, collar, and she wore an outlandish yellow  wig. The panniers were approximately 4' by 7'. The size was bas!
 ed o!
  n the very cramped back stage space we had in our theater. We had to be  able to fit in 14 six to nine-year-old 'Bon-Bons' and also another  teenage girl who literally pushed the whole contraption on stage from  underneath! Much of this was leftover technology from what had been  done in previous years when I was not with them. Two of us had to dress  Mother in the wings in only the ambient light coming from the stage. It  was very, very shaky to say the least and I am so glad that we got  through a Tech, a Dress, and 3 performances without a major mishap. 

You  have already given me some new ideas. I like the idea of the bottom row  being a C-shape to let the dancers out--but then how did the pipe keep  its shape and not collapse on itself? We used plumbing connectors and  put crosswise braces of pipe at the long ends of the ovals. It kept the  ovals from twisting, but it was not enough to keep the panniers from  sagging under the weight of the skirt. You mentioned having put upright  pipe every 2 feet. I can see that this would give good support, but  then how did you get it to bend into an oval? We only used the  upholstery strapping to connect the 3 horizontal rows of pipe. I knew  this was a problem, but we couldn't come up with a better answer in the  time we had left. 

You mentioned that you thought San Francisco  had completely built a stationary frame onto a platform. I'm going to  contemplate this one--because this may be the sturdiest idea in the  long run. Our greatest problem there would be storing it in the off  season--costume and prop space in the back of the ballet studio is very  limited. Is this link below the Mother Ginger costume you saw? 

http://www.voiceofdance.com/Insights/features.test.cfm?LinkID=31500000000000174

I just love this!  In my research on the 'Net for ideas, this was my absolute favorite!  A house for all the children!    

One  last question--what kind of movement did Mother make on stage? Did she  just roll out on stage in a straight line and then back out? Did she  completely cross and go off on the other side? Did she turn or make any  other movements? Our director insisted that Mother turn in a circle  once--after the children were out. I'd like to figure out a different  method of locomotion than a person hidden in the skirts and pushing on  all fours!

Hope you all have your creative thinking hats on today,
Thanks,
Kathy






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I also had a problem with the collar, made it over  several times and finally gave up in frustration and went on to another  project.  It's been sitting in my UFO pile for a couple years  now.  I just thought it was me, since I had never made anything  like it before.  Now I feel a bit better that I'm not the only  one!  Might even start working on it again...  :-)
  
  ~mary

h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 12:26:21 -0500
From: chindora@aol.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] margo pattern question

I  just bought and made that pattern in November, and found that there  were several corrections to pattern pieces, directions left off in some  places, and at one place outright wrong directions. Off the top, I  cannot remember what I had to do to make it work, so I guess I cannot  be of much help. I do remember fighting with the collar, however, and  it seems to me that doing what made sense at the time was the right  thing to do. 
 
I would not recommend this pattern for someone  who is not already familiar with basic construction techniques for this  type of garment.
 
~Kimberley
 
-----Original Message-----
From: A & J Garden 
To: Historical Costume 
Sent: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 17:04:55 +1100
Subject: [h-cost] margo pattern question


Does  anyone here have Margos Elizabethan gentlemens pattern? I've asked on  Margos list but can't get an answer - I'm pretty sure there is a  correction that needs to be done to the neck of the mens doublet but I  haven't got that page - can anyone here enlighten me? 
Thanks in advance, Aylwen 




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Greetings--

angelalazear wrote:

> I've heard Juki's are good, but are they worth the hefty price tag?  I'm 
> going to use it for edging costumes only, so probably don't need a lot 
> of fancy stitches. I have a few criterium, in order of importance:
> 
> Size (must be small as possible, I have very limited space)
> Ease of threading
> Sturdiness (I am a theatrical costumer, so my machines take a beating)
> Cost (would prefer not to spend over $500)

I've had a Janome myLock 134 for about 12 years now.  It occasionally 
gets cranky with old needles and slices threads, but that thing is a 
tank and extremely non-fussy otherwise.  I should really be nicer to it 
and get it tuned up.  I'm sure the threading on the newer models is a 
bit easier--this one was bought back in the relative Old Days.

Susan
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To: h-costume@indra.com (Historic Costuming)
Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2006 22:33:01 +0000
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Subject: [h-cost] Stitch example?
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I've seen this stitch mentioned several times in directions for sewing, but can't seem to find a good example of it.  The stitch is a "blind stitch".  Does anyone have a good instructional example of it?  I'll want to teach myself it then teach my students.

Roscelin
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2006 00:12:37 +0100
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Subject: [h-cost] pride and prejudice (late)
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Hi,
I went to the movies today and watched what you already saw long time ago, 
Pride and Prejudice. Movies always are late here, dont know why, Casanova is 
coming in april.
Well i must say that i lost my heart totally to this version of Austens 
novel. The characters were well chosen, settings and situations was 
gorgeous, and especially the interriors of Longborn Manor was to die for. 
Excatly what i have in my head of that time. Peassants at your doorway and 
geese and hens at the front opening, very romantic and very realistic to me.
Even the costumes was absolutely lovely, i simply think the costumer had hit 
the right situation, that a remote place in the country would be far behind 
from such a daring and shocking fashion change as the regency was. How 
delighted to see the anglaise dresses used, and mr Bennet dressed in 
oldfashioned long waistcoat, from the 1750ies.
I was so diverted and i really would like to go again to watch it tomorrow.
Bravo................

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Serger
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At 3:41 PM -0700 1/13/06, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>
>>Carol still looking for a treadle powered serger like my Mennonite
>friend has...
>
>I was truly intrigued by this, so I went looking.  Here's someone who
>built, actually converted,  her own!
>http://www.mushycat.com/wiki/index.php?n=Treadles.SergerConversion

Veddy Cool!!!!
Guess I'll have to get the Toyota repaired now to use as a 'victim'...
Ta
Carol
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: margo pattern question
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Quoting Mary <hanstar88@yahoo.com>:

> I also had a problem with the collar, made it over  several times and 
> finally gave up in frustration and went on to another  project.  It's 
> been sitting in my UFO pile for a couple years  now.  I just thought 
> it was me, since I had never made anything  like it before.  Now I 
> feel a bit better that I'm not the only  one!  Might even start 
> working on it again...  :-)
>

In case you don't know, there's an e-list at yahoo for Margo's Patterns
run by Margo herself.  She's an active participant, and eagerly
solicits places like this so that she can *fix* them in the next
release of the pattern.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/margospatterns/

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2006 11:44:26 -0800 (PST)
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Taffeta question again...
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Hello everyone,

For those of you who had input on my silk taffeta question, I have another
question related to the first one:

When you buy your taffeta, what weight do you look for?

I found 2.25 oz. silk taffeta for $16.98/yard (denverfabrics.com)
I found 4 oz. silk taffeta for $22.00/yard (distinctivefabrics.com)
I found ? weight silk taffeta (labeled lightweight) for $11.00/yard
(fashionfabricsclub.com)
I found ? weight silk taffeta for $30.99/yard (fabrics.net)

The weight silk I would buy would be the 4 oz. kind and my supplier has
even heavier silk taffeta (5.30 oz.) but I don't know the cost yet.

Is 4 oz. considered heavy enough for what we do?  Or is 5.30 oz. preferable?

Thanks!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2006 23:06:47 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval quote on underwear
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Audrey Bergeron-Morin <audreybmorin@gmail.com> wrote
>> I have spent the weekend at an event
>> in an English castle and I can tell you they are still damp.
>
>Were there any fires inside? Most of the castles we visited in France
>were damp and cold, but twice we visited castles where the chimneys
>had been restored so they'd made a fire inside - makes a whole world
>of difference. They would still be cold in the winter, though...
>
I have always thought that once you built a castle and got the fires 
going, and then kept the fires going, winter and summer alike, it 
probably held the heat better than you might expect.  Thick stone walls 
are certainly very good insulation when it comes to keeping heat out - 
one event inside a castle at Easter, we were going outside to warm up!

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: Julie <jtknits@jtknits.cts.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] knit stockings
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OK.  I can make knit yardgoods (5 knitting machines).  What would the stitches per inch be?  Is there a decent pattern anywhere?

Julie

----  <h-costume@indra.com> wrote:
> >Ok, I'm convinced the cut-from-yardgoods stockings existed. 
> >Come to think of it, there is a stocking I looked at from around 1880 
> >that fit the category - one of the fancy knit fabrics that probably 
> >could not have been done any other way.
SNIP
> >A knitting machine has been invented in Seneca, N. Y., that is said 
> >to knit a perfect stocking in less than five minutes. Aikens's 
> >knitting machines are very popular. We have thought ladies would do 
> >well to try them, and devote themselves to making up hosiery. We' 
> >doubt not but it would pay very well. - The cloth is knit in a 
> >straight piece, and another lady cuts it into shape and sews into 
> >the articles wanted.> 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Mother Ginger
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>>> sharon@collierfam.com 01/13/06 1:44 AM >>>
>It seems that the person who played "Mother M" in that picture is a guy.
>That would really help, because they really are larger and stronger
>(usually) and so can drag a heavy contraption more easily.

Yes, I know--and more often than not Mother Ginger *is* a guy--just for the comedy factor.  We had wanted to use a guy-- we were trying to get a local celebrity, like a DJ--but the Artistic Director nixed that idea, too.  (Can you tell we had many artistic differances?)  So it ended up being Clara's mother, Mrs. Stahlbaum, who had no more to do after Act I was over  (and who, by the way, just happens to be my daughter. This production was the 20th anniversary of the first time the company did Nutcracker.  Twenty years ago, Gretchen was Clara--now she came back to play her own mother!)

 >Also, extra height on the part of the actor means extra head room underneath.

Well, remember Gretchen was sitting on top of a 4-foot ladder--she was the eqivalent of about a 7' person anyway!  We need whatever device they use to drive parade floats around!

Kathy

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Kathy Hoover
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 10:15 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com 
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Mother Ginger


Hi Mary,  Becky, and anyone who has any ideas,

I just finished "Nutcracker" before Christmas and Mother Ginger was an
extreme problem.  I had asked this list for suggestions in mid-November, but
only got one or two replies about using plastic plumbing pipe.  That is what
we ended up doing, but the results were less than wonderful.  It is first on
my list of what to tackle the next time we do it.  Our dancer sat on top of
a 4-foot aluminum ladder that was not-too-securely attached to a platform on
wheels (casters).  The panniers were dropped over the ladder, she crawled up
the ladder and wiggled down in.  They were pinned as securely as we could
around her waist using upholstery strapping and we also had suspenders
attached.  I wish we would have thought of the backbrace--good idea!  Then
we dropped the skirt over her head (which was in several rather poorly
connected pieces), an apron, bodice with cape sleeves, collar, and she wore
an outlandish yellow wig.  The panniers were approximately 4' by 7'.  The
size was based o!  n the very cramped back stage space we had in our
theater.  We had to be able to fit in 14 six to nine-year-old 'Bon-Bons' and
also another teenage girl who literally pushed the whole contraption on
stage from underneath!  Much of this was leftover technology from what had
been done in previous years when I was not with them.  Two of us had to
dress Mother in the wings in only the ambient light coming from the stage.
It was very, very shaky to say the least and I am so glad that we got
through a Tech, a Dress, and 3 performances without a major mishap.  

You have already given me some new ideas.  I like the idea of the bottom row
being a C-shape to let the dancers out--but then how did the pipe keep its
shape and not collapse on itself?  We used plumbing connectors and put
crosswise braces of pipe at the long ends of the ovals.  It kept the ovals
from twisting, but it was not enough to keep the panniers from sagging under
the weight of the skirt.  You mentioned having put upright pipe every 2
feet.  I can see that this would give good support, but then how did you get
it to bend into an oval?  We only used the upholstery strapping to connect
the 3 horizontal rows of pipe.  I knew this was a problem, but we couldn't
come up with a better answer in the time we had left.  

You mentioned that you thought San Francisco had completely built a
stationary frame onto a platform.  I'm going to contemplate this
one--because this may be the sturdiest idea in the long run.  Our greatest
problem there would be storing it in the off season--costume and prop space
in the back of the ballet studio is very limited.  Is this link below the
Mother Ginger costume you saw?  

http://www.voiceofdance.com/Insights/features.test.cfm?LinkID=31500000000000 
174

I just love this!  In my research on the 'Net for ideas, this was my
absolute favorite!  A house for all the children!    

One last question--what kind of movement did Mother make on stage?  Did she
just roll out on stage in a straight line and then back out?   Did she
completely cross and go off on the other side?  Did she turn or make any
other movements?  Our director insisted that Mother turn in a circle
once--after the children were out.  I'd like to figure out a different
method of locomotion than a person hidden in the skirts and pushing on all
fours!

Hope you all have your creative thinking hats on today,
Thanks,
Kathy



>>> hanstar88@yahoo.com 01/11/06 10:55 AM >>>
Hi Becky,
  
  My daughter's ballet school does Nutcracker every year.  They have  a M
Ginger dress that is large enough to hide about a dozen kids under  it.  You
said your's is for a play, but it seems like the  construction could be
similar.  They used the white plastic PVC  pipe used for plumbing to create
the structure, so that it would be  rigid enough to hold its shape and hold
the weight of the skirts.   It has a top piece that is oval shape and a
bottom piece that is a "C"  shape (to allow the children a "door" to come
out of), and then a few  upright pieces, about every 2 ft?, to hold the two
together.  Then  they used one of those back braces for workers who lift
heavy stuff  that has suspenders attached.  The skirt frame is attached to
that  somehow (I never checked it out close up).  Then the M Ginger  dress
goes over the whole kit-n-kaboodle.
  
  We went to see Nutcracker in San Francisco last month and I noticed  that
their M Ginger dress frame seems to be on wheels.  The nice  thing about
that is that it probably takes a lot of weight off of the  person wearing
the costume and it "glides" across the stage.
  
  I have some pictures, but they don't show the framework.  Let me know if
you'd like to see them.
  
  HTH,
  ~mary

h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:


Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2006 09:08:23 -0500
From: "Becky" 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise

I have to design a "Mother Ginger" costume for this Christmas play of the 
Nutcracker. I have many ideas from various sites. I see how to make the 
hoops atand out at different angles. I've thought about this since the first

of December!!!! I work on it in my sleep. I've looked everywhere for a 
pattern to use but so far nothing is as large as I need. BUT some of the 
pictures I've found have been very helpful.
Yours has helped me to see how to put it together. Any suggestions on how to

make the underpinning hoops or farthingale that is 2-3 yards across? It has 
to be large for that character.







«:*´`´`*:»§«.»§«:*´`´`*:».«:*´`´`*:»§«.»§«:*´`´`*:»

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From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] margo pattern question
Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2006 18:31:56 -0600
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> Does anyone here have Margos Elizabethan gentlemens pattern? 
> I've asked on Margos list but can't get an answer - I'm 
> pretty sure there is a correction that needs to be done to 
> the neck of the mens doublet but I haven't got that page - 
> can anyone here enlighten me?
> Thanks in advance, Aylwen

Just what problems are you having? I have made the doublet a few times for
my husband and don't recall having any troubles. I just checked my pattern
instructions for any notes that I might have jotted down (I try to do this
so I remember if I changed something for the next time) and have nothing
recorded for the neck-piece at all.


>I just bought and made that pattern in November, and found that there were
several corrections to pattern pieces,  
>directions left off in some places, and at one place outright wrong
directions.  Off the top, I cannot remember what I 
>had to do to make it work, so I guess I cannot be of much help.  I do
remember fighting with the collar, however, and it >seems to me that doing
what made sense at the time was the right thing to do.   
 
>I would not recommend this pattern for someone who is not already familiar
with basic construction techniques for this 
>type of garment.
 
>~Kimberley

I would agree with you that Margo's patterns do need a bit of prior sewing
experience. I have also found places where an step is left out - obvious if
you've sewn before, but not so obvious if this is your first sewing
experience.

>Bummers!  I just ordered the Gentlemen's Wardrobe pattern set to use for my
son's Faire outfit.  Is there a better one 
>you would recommend?  This is my first time doing really historically
accurate costuming and I need to get it right.
>Rebecca Burch

There is really no better pattern than Margo's on the market (my opinion, of
course!) Her patterns are well researched and I think fulfill the
qualification of "historically accurate". The only way you could get more
accurate is to draft your own pattern using Janet Arnold, or some other
costume historian's sketches (or your own, if you are so lucky). What Faire
are you making the costume for? Is your son going to be on cast? I know for
a fact that Margo's patterns are used by cast members at many Faires across
the country - I have used them for myself and my husband at Bristol and
recommend them to the members of my Guilde, of which I am the costume
liaison.

>I also had a problem with the collar, made it over  several times and
finally gave up in frustration and went on to 
>another  project.  It's been sitting in my UFO pile for a couple years
now.  I just thought it was me, since I had never 
>made anything  like it before.  Now I feel a bit better that I'm not the
only  one!  Might even start working on it 
>again...  :-)
> ~mary

Again, I do not have any notes at the doublet collar section of my pattern
instructions. It is a tricky part, but if you follow the instructions *very*
*carefully*, it works fine. It is one of those spots where I found I can't
go rushing through, or I will mess up.

OK, I'm reading the instructions themselves over carefully. I think that the
step that is missing is to slash the seam allowance to the inside corner
dot, so that the piece will pivot and be able to sew the collar piece to the
shoulder/front. Does that make sense? Not something that I needed to note
for myself, because I just knew/figured what needed to be done from prior
experiences.

*******************************************************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence
Bristol Renaissance Faire
 
My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash
*******************************************************************
 


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From: "Shane & Sheridan" <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] Aaaak! Embroidery issues
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X-Miltered: at persephone with ID 43C84B26.003 by Joe's j-chkmail (http://j-chkmail.ensmp.fr)!

I am *finally* finishing my version of an early period Irish short coat for
my Husband, and I find I am nearly out of one particular colour of DMC
Medicis wool. I go to check the website of the shop I usually buy from (I
cannot get any locally)  only to find that since I last ordered from them
they no longer carry it. Grrr! (This is the second time this has happened to
me with this particular line of wool, apparently I'm one of the very few
people that actually uses it.)

What I am looking for is a Canadian shop that carries Medicis, that will do
mail-order/online. I'm in 'Northern' Ontario, but I'd consider anything
within reasonable shipping distance. US suppliers are fine as well, provided
they don't charge an arm and a leg for shipping. :-)

Thanks folks for any help!

Sheridan


*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*

" I'm Irish! When I am well, I am better than everyone,
when I am hurt I yell at the top of my
lungs, and when I am dead I shall be  deader
than anybody! "


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From: "Sharon L. Krossa" <skrossa-ml@medievalscotland.org>
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Subject: [h-cost] Underwear & Menses (was: medieval quote on underwear)
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At 8:16 PM +0000 1/10/06, Caroline wrote:
>If you are pregnant or breastfeeding you are unlikely to have monthly
>cycles.  Admitted women who are not sexually active won't be pregnant much
>but once you take nuns out of the equasion most women wouldn't need sanitary
>protection much during their life.

But they'd still need it enough of their lives for it to be a 
consideration in their lives. (And even most married women were 
probably not producing a child every year, or even every two years, 
and so would have spent much of their mature lives menstruating every 
month -- and not all women got married, remained married constantly 
until menopause, were fertile, etc...)

In any case, since this was raised in the context of discussing 
underwear, it is worth explicitly reminding ourselves that while 
currently in the US and similar cultures we often deal with 
menstruation by attaching something to underwear, this solution is in 
fact extremely modern. When I first started menstruating (circa 1980, 
give or take a couple years) many were still wearing special belts 
with dangly bits to which sanitary pads were attached (no underwear 
needed), and even as recently as the early 1990s when I was in 
hospital in the UK, the hospital issue pads assumed such a belt 
(which, naturally, I didn't have, not having used one since I was a 
young teenager -- nor were any of the British women I knew still 
using such things). And even though I have myself used such 
non-adhesive backing methods in the past, I still tend to forget that 
adhesive pads attached to underwear hasn't been around since time 
immemorial -- that is, until forcibly reminded by hospital time-warps 
or the like!

So, even if it were true that historically women didn't need sanitary 
protection much during their life, that wouldn't explain lack of 
women wearing underwear as underwear is completely unnecessary for 
sanitary protection (even without tampons) and, further, modernly 
underwear only became part of the sanitary protection solution in 
very recent decades.

That is, sanitary protection tells us nothing about underwear, and 
underwear tells us nothing about sanitary protection, except and 
unless there is specific evidence linking the two frequently 
unrelated variables in some specific context (such as, say, very late 
20th, early 21st century US & similar cultures).

Sharon
-- 
Sharon Krossa, skrossa-ml@MedievalScotland.org
Resources for Scottish history, names, clothing, language & more:
     Medieval Scotland - http://MedievalScotland.org/
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angelalazear wrote:

> I've heard Juki's are good, but are they worth the hefty price tag?  I'm 
> going to use it for edging costumes only, so probably don't need a lot 
> of fancy stitches.

I love Jukis, despite the price.  I've used them in two academic shops 
so far, and they are fab!  The shop I'm in now had two sergers, one 
Singer and one other (White, maybe?) that were relatively new but always 
choking up, sucking trimmed-off edges back in, breaking threads, and 
losing stitches.  Everyone breathed a sigh of relief when we got the 
Juki.  I've had my personal Juki for 15 years and have never once had a 
problem with it.  It will chomp through a ridiculous number of layers 
(when I was a professional cutter/draper, I once brought home a costume 
that the sergers at work couldn't handle).

Melanie Schuessler
(now Asst. Prof. of Costume Design, Eastern Michigan University)

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Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2006 18:38:42 -0800 (PST)
From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] margo pattern question
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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How interesting!  My son, Ansel, will be on cast as
Capt. Martin Frobisher at Bristol.  You may have met
him last summer when he was a Yeoman of the Guard.  He
was the one wearing a leek in his hat.  I just spoke
with Kate, the costume liason for St. George, and she
said that these would be fine.  So now I am in search
of wool crepe, which she suggested as the best for the
job.  Any suggestions of good sources?

Rebecca Burch

--- Rebecca Schmitt <lotsofteapots@charter.net> wrote:
What Faire are you making the costume for? Is your son
going to be on cast? I know for a fact that Margo's
patterns are used by cast members at many Faires
across the country - I have used them for myself and
my husband at Bristol and recommend them to the
members of my Guilde, of which I am the costume
liaison.


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Jan 13 21:41:46 2006
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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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References: <006701c618a4$5f776080$0a02a8c0@nodomainset.bellcanada>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Aaaak! Embroidery issues
Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2006 19:48:12 -0700
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Well, my first suggestion was going to be Threadexpress
(www.threadexpress.com), since they certainly carry what you're looking for,
but for some reason, the DMC Medicis wool (at least through them) is only
available in the US.  So if you needed to go through them, you'd have to get
one of us from south of our shared border to order it, and then mail it to
you.
My next thought was HedgehogHandworks, but they don't sell DMC Medicis.
My third idea was these guys:
http://www.lacemakerusa.com/
They sell DMC Medicis, but that part of their website isn't fully
functional.  I've bought lace-making supplies and embroidery threads through
them before, and found them very helpful, so maybe you could contact them
directly, and ask what colors they have? There's an email address and a
1-800 number on the "home" page of their website....
Hope this helps!
--Sue in Montana

----- Original Message -----
From: "Shane & Sheridan" <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 5:49 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Aaaak! Embroidery issues


> I am *finally* finishing my version of an early period Irish short coat
for
> my Husband, and I find I am nearly out of one particular colour of DMC
> Medicis wool. I go to check the website of the shop I usually buy from (I
> cannot get any locally)  only to find that since I last ordered from them
> they no longer carry it. Grrr! (This is the second time this has happened
to
> me with this particular line of wool, apparently I'm one of the very few
> people that actually uses it.)
>
> What I am looking for is a Canadian shop that carries Medicis, that will
do
> mail-order/online. I'm in 'Northern' Ontario, but I'd consider anything
> within reasonable shipping distance. US suppliers are fine as well,
provided
> they don't charge an arm and a leg for shipping. :-)
>
> Thanks folks for any help!
>
> Sheridan


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From: "Rebecca Schmitt" <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] margo pattern question
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X-Miltered: at persephone with ID 43C86C1C.000 by Joe's j-chkmail (http://j-chkmail.ensmp.fr)!

Aarrgh - I remember the leek, but the face that goes with it is escaping me
at the moment. I'm sure when I see him, it'll be an "a-ha" moment :-)

There are lots of places online - some bookmarks I have that are likely to
have wool crepe 
www.trimfabric.com
www.fabric.com
www.denverfabrics.com
www.voguefabricsstore.com

Hancock Fabrics also carries a decent selection of wool, and is probably
putting some of it on sale now to make way for spring/summer fabrics.

Hope this all helps!

*******************************************************************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence
Bristol Renaissance Faire
 
My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash
*******************************************************************
 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of REBECCA BURCH
> Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 8:39 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] margo pattern question
> 
> How interesting!  My son, Ansel, will be on cast as Capt. 
> Martin Frobisher at Bristol.  You may have met him last 
> summer when he was a Yeoman of the Guard.  He was the one 
> wearing a leek in his hat.  I just spoke with Kate, the 
> costume liason for St. George, and she said that these would 
> be fine.  So now I am in search of wool crepe, which she 
> suggested as the best for the job.  Any suggestions of good sources?
> 
> Rebecca Burch
> 
> --- Rebecca Schmitt <lotsofteapots@charter.net> wrote:
> What Faire are you making the costume for? Is your son going 
> to be on cast? I know for a fact that Margo's patterns are 
> used by cast members at many Faires across the country - I 
> have used them for myself and my husband at Bristol and 
> recommend them to the members of my Guilde, of which I am the 
> costume liaison.
> 
> 
> Rebecca Burch
> Center Valley Farm
> Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Is there someone who has Patterns of History's avant-garde gown who could
give me the yardage requirements for size 10 (or something close)? I just
ordered the pattern but I'm afraid the fabric I want will be gone if I wait
for the pattern to show up.

 

Thanks

Beth

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Sergers & past topics
Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2006 21:54:00 -0800
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On my son's school site, someone was offering a serger. Yamato Industrial 5
thread overlock serger. Asking $350.00. I'm not sure if it's still
available. if you are interested, contact me directly at
sharon@collierfam.com
Sharon Collier

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of angelalazear
Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 10:54 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Sergers & past topics


Listies,

Can anyone take a moment to instruct me as to how to pull up our old topic 
threads? (I need the url as well) I am finally in the research phase of 
purchasing a serger, and I believe that was a recent topic here.  Any other 
resource for info on sergers would be appreciated.  I've been to many sewing

machine sites, but they are really short on the info I'm looking for.

I've heard Juki's are good, but are they worth the hefty price tag?  I'm 
going to use it for edging costumes only, so probably don't need a lot of 
fancy stitches. I have a few criterium, in order of importance:

Size (must be small as possible, I have very limited space) Ease of
threading Sturdiness (I am a theatrical costumer, so my machines take a
beating) Cost (would prefer not to spend over $500)

thanks!
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
Theatrical Costume Design
"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
All's Well That Ends Well 1.1.65-6, Countess to Bertram
W. Shakespeare

http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com 

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: sergers
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Angela,

Here's what I posted last May when the topic came up:

I have a White serger and really like it, but it's at least 15 yrs 
old.  I don't know if the new ones are as good or not.  It's not 
fancy (doesn't do rolled hems easily, manual threading, etc.) but 
it's gotten me (and hubby) thru miles of velvet, lame', satins, and 
all kinds of weird fabrics.  At the time, it was one of the heaviest 
sergers made, which means it doesn't dance all over the table when 
you run it at full speed.

In all this time, it's only needed routine cleanings and tune-ups - 
no major repairs.
HTH
Sandy - see interleaved lines for specific comments.

At 01:02 PM 1/13/2006, you wrote:
>Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2006 10:53:42 -0800
>From: "angelalazear" <angelalazear@sbcglobal.net>
>Subject: [h-cost] Sergers & past topics
>  I am finally in the research phase of  purchasing a serger, and I 
> believe that was a recent topic here.  Any other resource for info 
> on sergers would be appreciated.  I've been to many sewing machine 
> sites, but they are really short on the info I'm looking for.
>Size (must be small as possible, I have very limited space)

footprint is about 1 sq. foot

>Ease of threading

I don't think it's hard, but hubby has trouble.  Usually I just tie 
new threads to the current looper threads and pull them thru, then 
thread the needles separately - they're no more difficult than a 
regular machine.

>Sturdiness (I am a theatrical costumer, so my machines take a beating)

See above.

>Cost (would prefer not to spend over $500)

Don't know what they go for now - also don't know if the current 
models are as good.

>Angela F. Lazear
>Cabbage Rose Costumes

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Mother Ginger
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Contact Disneyland's costume dept. A few years ago, we saw the "Mulan"
parade, which had actors in very tall motorized "mini floats" (for lack of a
better term). The costumes were gorgeous and about 10-12 feet tall.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Kathy Hoover
Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 11:37 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Mother Ginger


>>> sharon@collierfam.com 01/13/06 1:44 AM >>>
>It seems that the person who played "Mother M" in that picture is a 
>guy. That would really help, because they really are larger and 
>stronger
>(usually) and so can drag a heavy contraption more easily.

Yes, I know--and more often than not Mother Ginger *is* a guy--just for the
comedy factor.  We had wanted to use a guy-- we were trying to get a local
celebrity, like a DJ--but the Artistic Director nixed that idea, too.  (Can
you tell we had many artistic differances?)  So it ended up being Clara's
mother, Mrs. Stahlbaum, who had no more to do after Act I was over  (and
who, by the way, just happens to be my daughter. This production was the
20th anniversary of the first time the company did Nutcracker.  Twenty years
ago, Gretchen was Clara--now she came back to play her own mother!)

 >Also, extra height on the part of the actor means extra head room
underneath.

Well, remember Gretchen was sitting on top of a 4-foot ladder--she was the
eqivalent of about a 7' person anyway!  We need whatever device they use to
drive parade floats around!

Kathy

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Kathy Hoover
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 10:15 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com 
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Mother Ginger


Hi Mary,  Becky, and anyone who has any ideas,

I just finished "Nutcracker" before Christmas and Mother Ginger was an
extreme problem.  I had asked this list for suggestions in mid-November, but
only got one or two replies about using plastic plumbing pipe.  That is what
we ended up doing, but the results were less than wonderful.  It is first on
my list of what to tackle the next time we do it.  Our dancer sat on top of
a 4-foot aluminum ladder that was not-too-securely attached to a platform on
wheels (casters).  The panniers were dropped over the ladder, she crawled up
the ladder and wiggled down in.  They were pinned as securely as we could
around her waist using upholstery strapping and we also had suspenders
attached.  I wish we would have thought of the backbrace--good idea!  Then
we dropped the skirt over her head (which was in several rather poorly
connected pieces), an apron, bodice with cape sleeves, collar, and she wore
an outlandish yellow wig.  The panniers were approximately 4' by 7'.  The
size was based o!  n the very cramped back stage space we had in our
theater.  We had to be able to fit in 14 six to nine-year-old 'Bon-Bons' and
also another teenage girl who literally pushed the whole contraption on
stage from underneath!  Much of this was leftover technology from what had
been done in previous years when I was not with them.  Two of us had to
dress Mother in the wings in only the ambient light coming from the stage.
It was very, very shaky to say the least and I am so glad that we got
through a Tech, a Dress, and 3 performances without a major mishap.  

You have already given me some new ideas.  I like the idea of the bottom row
being a C-shape to let the dancers out--but then how did the pipe keep its
shape and not collapse on itself?  We used plumbing connectors and put
crosswise braces of pipe at the long ends of the ovals.  It kept the ovals
from twisting, but it was not enough to keep the panniers from sagging under
the weight of the skirt.  You mentioned having put upright pipe every 2
feet.  I can see that this would give good support, but then how did you get
it to bend into an oval?  We only used the upholstery strapping to connect
the 3 horizontal rows of pipe.  I knew this was a problem, but we couldn't
come up with a better answer in the time we had left.  

You mentioned that you thought San Francisco had completely built a
stationary frame onto a platform.  I'm going to contemplate this
one--because this may be the sturdiest idea in the long run.  Our greatest
problem there would be storing it in the off season--costume and prop space
in the back of the ballet studio is very limited.  Is this link below the
Mother Ginger costume you saw?  

http://www.voiceofdance.com/Insights/features.test.cfm?LinkID=31500000000000

174

I just love this!  In my research on the 'Net for ideas, this was my
absolute favorite!  A house for all the children!    

One last question--what kind of movement did Mother make on stage?  Did she
just roll out on stage in a straight line and then back out?   Did she
completely cross and go off on the other side?  Did she turn or make any
other movements?  Our director insisted that Mother turn in a circle
once--after the children were out.  I'd like to figure out a different
method of locomotion than a person hidden in the skirts and pushing on all
fours!

Hope you all have your creative thinking hats on today,
Thanks,
Kathy



>>> hanstar88@yahoo.com 01/11/06 10:55 AM >>>
Hi Becky,
  
  My daughter's ballet school does Nutcracker every year.  They have  a M
Ginger dress that is large enough to hide about a dozen kids under  it.  You
said your's is for a play, but it seems like the  construction could be
similar.  They used the white plastic PVC  pipe used for plumbing to create
the structure, so that it would be  rigid enough to hold its shape and hold
the weight of the skirts.   It has a top piece that is oval shape and a
bottom piece that is a "C"  shape (to allow the children a "door" to come
out of), and then a few  upright pieces, about every 2 ft?, to hold the two
together.  Then  they used one of those back braces for workers who lift
heavy stuff  that has suspenders attached.  The skirt frame is attached to
that  somehow (I never checked it out close up).  Then the M Ginger  dress
goes over the whole kit-n-kaboodle.
  
  We went to see Nutcracker in San Francisco last month and I noticed  that
their M Ginger dress frame seems to be on wheels.  The nice  thing about
that is that it probably takes a lot of weight off of the  person wearing
the costume and it "glides" across the stage.
  
  I have some pictures, but they don't show the framework.  Let me know if
you'd like to see them.
  
  HTH,
  ~mary

h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:


Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2006 09:08:23 -0500
From: "Becky" 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise

I have to design a "Mother Ginger" costume for this Christmas play of the 
Nutcracker. I have many ideas from various sites. I see how to make the 
hoops atand out at different angles. I've thought about this since the first

of December!!!! I work on it in my sleep. I've looked everywhere for a 
pattern to use but so far nothing is as large as I need. BUT some of the 
pictures I've found have been very helpful.
Yours has helped me to see how to put it together. Any suggestions on how to

make the underpinning hoops or farthingale that is 2-3 yards across? It has 
to be large for that character.







«:*´`´`*:»§«.»§«:*´`´`*:».«:*´`´`*:»§«.»§«:*´`´`*:»

"Pictures of perfection, as you know, make me sick & wicked."
~ Jane Austen

"Right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time.  I think I've
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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seriously off topic (sorry) stolen re-enactment kit
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Hi,

I know this is a bit behind the fact, but the thought ocurred to me that it may worth Nigel posting the list ( and the event that caused the list ) to *ALL* of the ebay community boards, even if they don't seem to have anything to do with re-enactment. That way there will be a LOT more people keeping an eye out ( hopefully ).

Deb, would you please forward my sincere condolences to Nigel and his lady.

Joannah.  

--- Debloughcostumes@aol.com wrote:

From: Debloughcostumes@aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 14:39:40 EST
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Seriously off topic (sorry) stolen re-enactment kit

Apologies for going completely o-t, but I hope nobody (especially those 
involved) will mind me posting this here - am trying to spread the word as far as 
possible as quickly as possible.

A garage used as a store by some members of Conquest has been raided, with 
some kit being stolen and the rest torched (burnt to ashes, for those not 
familiar with English slang).

As I understand it, of the stuff in the garage, one tunic survived.  
Everything else is gone.  This is thousands and thousands of pounds worth of kit which 
took decades to assemble.

A full list of the stolen kit can be seen here 
http://livinghistory.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1651
Please keep an eye out for any of the kit that will presumably at some point 
be for sale.

Thanks

Debs
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From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Underwear & Menses (was: medieval quote on
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This.. is kinda why I was leaning to the marriage
night theory. I recall at some point in history that
women were often confined to their chambers if not bed
during their periods. And seeing maternity fashions in
Renaissance Venice- or lack thereof, I can see that
they did not tend to put a great deal of effort into
private clothing that was meant to take a serious
beating.

Another thought that came to mind and it's one that we
rely upon when thinking about whether or not to use
underwear today-
Would it be generally agreed that based on available
portraiture from England and Venice (using two that we
are familiar with for now) that Venetian women were
more ruebenesque than English women? Perhaps it's a
matter of friction, just like today. I remember those
long lost days of thin-hood, and wearing itty bitty
undies under a skirt was normal. Now, I'm hauling out
knickers to my knees so that I am not dreadfully
uncomfortable. Given the relative warm humidity of
Venice versus the cooler dampness of England, a
heavier woman would be wanting something to ease the
friction under all those layers.  Heck, I do now, and
I live in Canada!

Kathy

> In any case, since this was raised in the context of
> discussing 
> underwear, it is worth explicitly reminding
> ourselves that while 
> currently in the US and similar cultures we often
> deal with 
> menstruation by attaching something to underwear,
> this solution is in 
> fact extremely modern. <snip>

> That is, sanitary protection tells us nothing about
> underwear, and 
> underwear tells us nothing about sanitary
> protection <snip>

It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
For every beauty there is an eye somewhere to see it. For every truth there is an ear somewhere to hear it. For every love there is a heart somewhere to receive it.
-Ivan Panin


	

	
		
__________________________________________________________ 
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From: Caroline <carolineebuckley@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval quote on underwear
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Don't forget too that most castles in Britain at least would have had
plaster on the walls and tapestry or other woollen hangings to help with the
heat insulation.  Rooms deviod of furniture and people also feel much colder
and damper.  I am sure I was once told that each human body generates as
much heat as a 150 watt bulb - not very much on your own but castles were
populated by more than you're average nuclear family.

On 13/01/06, Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>
> Audrey Bergeron-Morin <audreybmorin@gmail.com> wrote
> >> I have spent the weekend at an event
> >> in an English castle and I can tell you they are still damp.
> >
> >Were there any fires inside? Most of the castles we visited in France
> >were damp and cold, but twice we visited castles where the chimneys
> >had been restored so they'd made a fire inside - makes a whole world
> >of difference. They would still be cold in the winter, though...
> >
> I have always thought that once you built a castle and got the fires
> going, and then kept the fires going, winter and summer alike, it
> probably held the heat better than you might expect.  Thick stone walls
> are certainly very good insulation when it comes to keeping heat out -
> one event inside a castle at Easter, we were going outside to warm up!
>
> Jean
> --
> Jean Waddie
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>



--
Caroline
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Kathy Page wrote:

> that Venetian women were
> more ruebenesque than English women? Perhaps it's a
> matter of friction, just like today. I remember those
> long lost days of thin-hood, and wearing itty bitty
> undies under a skirt was normal. Now, I'm hauling out
> knickers to my knees so that I am not dreadfully
> uncomfortable.

I have a friend whose mother does not wear underwear, and is rubenesque. 
  My friend tells me that although her mom's thighs rub, since it's the 
way she's always done things, the skin has toughened up a bit, and she 
does not get chafing, even in hot weather.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

Snow ants are of course snow white, and travel in huge packs, are quite 
invisible against the snow. Usually, the only way to know they're nearby 
is when moose disappear in a puff of white with a little spattering of 
red.  "The Great Canadian Wallpaper Festival" by Tempus Peregrinator
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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: non-slip gum for shoulder straps?
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<--- katherine sanders <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
<
<Hello all
<
<This is /kind/ of costume related - I've just had to
<design my first corset with straps for a lovely
<customer who is a) self-conscious and b) lop-sided,
<after a very dislocating shoulder finally got operated
<on... What can I say, it doesn't seem to matter how
<carefully I fit the strap, one or t'other creeps down.
<
<Since the corset will be used for ceilidhing and
<general dancing, she's going to need them to stay in
<place.
<
<Does anyone have a tip on making those gummy strips
<I've seen on the inside of some ready to wear garments
<that hold semi-off the shoulder straps in place? I'd
<thought of some kind of glue or silicon sealant (hmmm
<- might stain the shiny fabric on top).
<
<Many many thanks,
<
<Katherine who's based in the UK so some suppliers are out.

Hello, Katherine,

I'm sorry if this is a bit late - I'm way behind on reading my email - again! ;-P

Have you tried cutting the straps on the bias, rather than on the straight? Cutting the straps on the bias will give them some stretch and allow them to better conform to the curve of the body. The other thing which you could try is to anchor the straps closer in to the centre back, if possible, so that they go over the shoulder at an angle, rather than going straight over the shoulder from front to back, like modern spaghetti straps on a dress do. 

What style of corset is it?

I helped to make an effigy-styled corset for a lady who turned out to be lopsided ( markedly, once the pattern was laid out flat )as a result of a car accident. As far as I know, she never had any problems with straps slipping off her shoulders, on either side. Her straps were cut on the bias, and were also slightly curved, like the straps of an 18thC corset, as a result of how we arrived at her pattern. ( A straight line drawn on the body often turns into a curved line when laid flat. )

No gummy strips, but I hope this is helpful.
Joannah




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I've not been reading regularly for awhile.

Has there been any news about Medieval Clothing and Textiles II. I
thought that it was should be out by now, but it isn't.

Onaree

--
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<--- "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com> wrote:
<
<Yeah.  I have a rather surprising number of friends who have childres <11 months apart.  

Friends of mine from childhood - a sister and brother - were actually born in the same year! Fiona in late January, and Fergus in December.

Joannah.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval Clothing and Textiles II--Any news?
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On Sat, 14 Jan 2006, Onaree Berard wrote:

> Has there been any news about Medieval Clothing and Textiles II. I
> thought that it was should be out by now, but it isn't.

Hi, Onaree. MC&T is an annual journal; it's scheduled to come out every
spring, in time for the Medieval Congress in Kalamazoo early in May.
Volume 2 is on track to be released in April, three months from now. (The
publisher has a date of April 1 on our webpage; they're British, so they
probably don't know why an American would find that amusing!)

We're done with the text proofs, and I saw the first proof of the book
jacket this week.

Contents for Vol. 2 are visible here:

http://www.boydell.co.uk/43832038.HTM

Amazon has a better price; I suspect that most people who buy from the
publisher are libraries and scholars with discounts. (There's a sizable
discount offered to people who go to Kalamazoo.)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1843832038

Feel free to contact me directly if you have any further questions.

--Robin

==========================================================
Robin Netherton 
Editor, Medieval Clothing and Textiles
robin@nightowl.net

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angelalazear wrote:
> Listies,
> 
> Can anyone take a moment to instruct me as to how to pull up our old 
> topic threads? (I need the url as well) I am finally in the research 
> phase of purchasing a serger, and I believe that was a recent topic 
> here.  Any other resource for info on sergers would be appreciated.  
> I've been to many sewing machine sites, but they are really short on the 
> info I'm looking for.
> 


I've only had my white (I think it's a white 2000) for a year and a 
half, but it works pretty well - once I got used to the vagaries of 
serging. I"m told that White, since it's a division of Viking, the motor 
is made by Jaguar. Consumer reports has it as a Best Buy.

I bought mine through allbrands.com - they have it for $269

	-Judy Mitchell
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval quote on underwear
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Yes, and I will look for a picture I have seen where there are women 
pulling up their skirst to warm their feet/legs at a fire in a room.  It 
is almost a "cut away" picture as if to show the scene of the village, 
but what is going on inside the buildings as well.   I think I said this 
recently on the list (and have been away so, forgive if this was part of 
this conversation and I have forgotten.) if you go to Moryson, where he 
is talking about clothing in on the continent in several places he says 
that women do  wear breeches under their gowns.  Of course this is later 
than you speak of (1598~1604), but......

"This cold is the cause, why their sheepe and cattell are kept in 
stables, to bring forth their young. And howsoeuer the same be done in 
Italy, subiect to great heate, yet it is not of necessitie, as here, but 
out of the too great tendernesse of the Italians, towards the few cattle 
they haue And this is the cause, that how soeuer they vse not hot 
stoaues, as the Germans doe,  yet the Weomen, as well at home, as in the 
Churches, to driue away cold, put vnder them little pannes of fier, 
couered with boxes of wood, boared full of holes in the top. And this 
sordid remedy they carry with them, by the high way in waggons, which 
the Danes or Mosconites vse not, though oppressed with greater cold: 
onely some of the more noble Weomen, disliking this remedy, choose 
rather to weare breeches, to defend them from the cold."  (Netherands)......

Some of the chiefe Women not able to abide the extreme cold, and loth to 
put fier vnder them for heate (as the common vse is) because it causeth 
wrinckles and
spots on their bodies, doe vse to weare breeches of linnen or silke. 
(Germany).......

The City Virgins, and especially Gentlewomen, couer their heads, face, 
and backes with a Vaile, that they may not be seene passing the 
streetes, and in many
places weare silke or linnen breeches vnder their gownes. (Italy)"


Sg

>Were there any fires inside? Most of the castles we visited in France
>were damp and cold, but twice we visited castles where the chimneys
>had been restored so they'd made a fire inside - makes a whole world
>of difference. They would still be cold in the winter, though...
>
>_______________________________________________
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>
>  
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: socks/stocking  etc.
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Hi Mia,

      Ok, since you mention Cowpens, I'm guessing you're doing Rev War?

>Hey Carol K, e-friend and sock guru,  thanks for all the info on 
>machine/frame knit sock (what is the correct term, or are all the 
>terms correct, but for different techniques?)

      Framework knitting, stocking looms, stocking frames - there are 
a number of terms.  The confusion comes in because peg frame 
enthusiasts also call them knitting frames.  Sigh, terminology...

>   The spousal unit (Corporal Dappert) bought a pair or the machine 
>knit Civil war socks.  in coton.  they look good (to me, but I only 
>know enought to be dangerous),  they are in natural color cotton, 
>and have no elastic.  and very little give.  They are supremely hard 
>to get on and off..  I'll have to dig them out and look at the heel 
>to see what kind of heel was put in.

      Are you talking about antique 19th century stockings or repros 
that are made for Civil War reenactors?

      Besides the ever-popular cotton/nylon stockings we have for 
reenactment, I've also found a thinner cotton stocking through an 
Amish source.  Sorry, it was 15 years ago and I don't remember the 
source exactly!

>   real period socks and stocking can be a challenge for those of us 
>in the reecacting world.....Which is why I went to not-so-authentic, 
>but faster to produce cut from whole cloth stockings.  The have that 
>clock, which is missing from so many commerically availble socks.

      I think you mean they have that gusset or gore.  Clocking or 
chevening is the decoration on the stocking, either knit in or 
embroidered or both.

      And cut & sewn from woven cloth is authentic.  But by the Rev 
War era they seem to be a coarse option, and are you portraying a 
coarse person?  (Some do the army & camp life, some do gentry and 
manor life.)

>I'm still experimenting with different fabrics for the stiffness 
>factor.  I have a piece of wool jersey that has been washed and 
>fulled up nicely, AND is a bit stiffer.  Do you know what the 
>frequency is of stockings done in wool, but not knitted (Just 
>general is good...)

      Wouldn't that be nice - a statistic for each decade on cut & 
sewn from woven cloth, hand knit at home, hand knit and purchased, 
frame knit, silk, wool, cotton, thread....

      People like to speculate on this, and I think it was the 
18cWoman list where Paul Dickfoss mentioned whether frame knit or 
hand knit was used more.

      Certainly hand knit was seen in the actual 18th Century more 
than we see it among reenactors.  :-)

      What it comes down to, is what seems the most likely for the 
role you are playing in reenactment?  The thread was started by 
Bjarne looking for "gentleman's" stockings (although I still don't 
know what decade and what purpose).

      As a campfollower (I'm assuming again!) who were you before the 
army?  (I'm sure you've gone through that already...)

      Until I get a stocking frame up & running, the only absolute 
authentic stockings for Rev War reenactment are hand knit and cut & 
sewn from woven cloth.  But there are plenty of compromises out 
there, and the plain cotton/nylon are good in the sense that they do 
not draw attention to themselves.  And Colleen Humphries often 
advocates the theatrical solution of black shoes and black stockings, 
which "disappear" and compromises are not obvious.

      There are some clocked stockings out there sold by suppliers, 
which are attention-getting and I have not yet seen a pair done 
correctly.  (And those are machine embroidered on a typical 
cotton/nylon stocking, no gusset.) Remember that clocking is done on 
BOTH SIDES of period stockings.  Many of those offered for sale are 
clocked on only one side.  Also the motifs are sometimes placed in 
the wrong place on the ankle, or out of proportion to the original. 
And they are patterned after originals that are from the first half 
of the century and would have been out of style by the Rev War.

      Ok, with all that info have I managed to completely avoid your 
exact question?

      Also for everyone interested in stockings I recommend the 
Historicknit list, a Yahoo group, where we discuss knitting of all 
time periods.

      -Carol
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Yes, and I will look for a picture I have seen where there are women 
pulling up their skirst to warm their feet/legs at a fire in a room.  It 
is almost a "cut away" picture as if to show the scene of the village, 
but what is going on inside the buildings as well.  

One of the winter calendar pages of the Tres Riches Heures shows women and men doing this and none of them are wearing any underwear.

Janet

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Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2006 10:51:36 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: socks/stocking  etc.
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Carolyn said
>I'm not much of a knitter, but I have a book called "Folk Socks", 
>which has every kind of heel I ever say, and several I never did 
>before, all with knitting instructions for them.  (I haven't been 
>following this thread, so I don't know if this book has been 
>mentioned.)  It also has many kinds of toe, also with instructions.

      What I love about this book (author - Nancy Bush) is that heels 
and toes are very nicely described and illustrated.  She does not say 
when the different heels and toes are used, but the definitions are 
very nice.

      -Carol
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Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2006 11:56:38 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
Subject: [h-cost] re:knit stockings (long)
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Hi Kelly,

>I never said they were the most common, I said they were the best 
>available option; documented period technique using period 
>appropriate fibers.

      Ok, that's different, then.

>What dating criteria have you been using in your examinations? As 
>you previously stated this was not a period technique, perhaps you 
>misinterpreted what you were examining.

      The book I started with is _Socks & Stocking_ by Jeremy Farrell. 
It's out of print, but available through book searches.  Also the 
Chapman books, which are a history of the technology, patents, etc, 
and then anything else I can get my hands on.  I've looked at 
stockings in many collections in the US (east coast) and England, 
taking in the dates they assign to the objects and sometimes leaving 
notes suggesting a different date.  It's fun to see the results of 
the technology in an antique stocking.

      As far as a cut and sewn stocking, they would need to have a 
seam allowance because otherwise the stocking would come apart very 
quickly.  What I see are stockings knit to shape, where there is a 
seam with about one or two knit stitches on the inside.

      And I have seen the seam allowances on the stockings made from 
fancy knit fabrics, so I can see the difference.

      Back to period techniques - Farrell cites the circular knitter, 
improved in 1840.  "Although admired for its speed, it could only 
make a tube which had to be cut and sewn into stockings. By 1845 the 
hosiery industry was just beginning to crawl out of a recession and 
'cut ups' were seen as an unacceptable cheapening of the product."

      That's where I got the impression that it was not being done 
commonly, and additionally there was a lot of improvement of 
machinery that could shape the stockings as they were knit.  Farrell 
cites an improvement patented in 1838 of a wide frame where stitches 
were shifted automatically, so shaping did not have to be a hand 
operation as it was in the 18th and early 19thC.

>Also, we are all aware that the items in museums tend to be 
>representative of those fine, expensive items of the upper classes 
>as opposed to the common everyday items of the middle or lower 
>classes, which were usually used and reused until nothing was left.

      But there are plainer items in some museums.  Especially in the 
case of industry, samples are kept to illustrate what was being made, 
and the technological improvements can be seen.  The Nottingham 
costume museum has many stockings of this sort.

>The employments of women also states that one single factory was 
>employing 700 women to sew stockings, unfortunately it does not 
>state how many per day they could complete, but that's a very large 
>workforce for the time period - there most have been a demand for 
>the product.

      Absolutely!  Stockings were knit flat and shaped with the 
increases/decreases in the sides of the piece, which became the back 
seam.  The seaming could also be outsourced, as well as the 
embroidery.  Even the circular knit stockings needed to have the 
soles sewn together and the toes sewn up, until the introduction of 
the short-row heel.  Sewn toes are still a part of hosiery 
manufacture, which I just checked on the socks I'm wearing today. 
And while the circular knits might not be desirable for ladies, they 
were worn by children.

      Stockings did not need to be cut in order to be sewn - the 
machine wrought hose had sewing as part of the finishing process. 
Not only that, seamed nylons were in common use through the middle of 
the 20th century.

>The Aiken's machine was hand-cranked and focused towards home manufacture.
>
>Steam power was used in the factories. There were issues with 
>converting machinery originally intended for hand power to steam 
>power. The steam power was so powerful (if not properly regulated) 
>that the older equipment frequently did not function optimally - it 
>simply couldn't keep up. I suspect in knitted goods, it led to 
>imperfect knitting, obviously especially along the selvedges

      Ok, I know that type of machine - I saw the factory in 
Massachusetts.  The machines I primarily research are the hand 
frames, which are body-powered - hands and feet.  There are some 
still around, and the last one ceased producing in a factory in 1985 
when the operator retired.  (Not a typo - this was a mere 21 years 
ago!)

      However you do have power machinery being developed in the 2nd 
quarter 19th century that did produce good quality knitting.

      Another interesting thing I realized at the knitting factory in 
Nottingham - the hand frames could work faster than the modern 
electric powered machines.  The difference is that each hand frame 
needs the full attention of an operator, whereas the roomful of a 
dozen modern machines took four mechanics to keep them running.

      The difference today is that human labor is a more expensive 
part of the equation than it was in earlier centuries.

>I believe Mickey Childs (not sure I'm remembering the name 
>correctly) was making men's socks and there was some controversy on 
>the heel construction. I'm not aware of anyone ever making correct 
>machine knit ladies stockings.

      That name sounds familiar.  I only heard he was making Civil War 
era, not any details beyond that.  Was he making circular knits, or a 
flat knit with a seam?

      -Carol
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From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
>...I recall at some point in history that women were often confined to 
>their chambers if not bed
>during their periods...

Something to keep in mind when dealing with topics like this -- another 
difference from today is that the vast majority of the population before, 
oh, 1900 was rural, not upper class, and most people worked regularly.  I'm 
not sure that "women", as a whole, could often be confined for several days 
of the month.

Marc


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Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2006 12:10:09 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] knit stockings
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>OK.  I can make knit yardgoods (5 knitting machines).  What would 
>the stitches per inch be?  Is there a decent pattern anywhere?

Hi Julie,

      Kannik's Korner has a pattern for cut & sewn stockings.

      What era are you aiming for?  How fine can your machines knit?

      I suspect they are the home type of flatbed machine.  I have one 
that's supposed to be fine gauge, but I have not yet gotten close to 
the machine-wrought gauge of the 18th century.  (18-20 stitches per 
inch).  Maybe if I started with wool and fulled it down, that might 
help.

      The modern latch-hook machines produce a stretchier fabric than 
the bearded needle machines of the 18thC.  I tried cranking the 
tension up to the tightest, and it's still too stretchy.

      The thing is, knit yardgoods at fine gauges are already 
available at fabric stores.  They are stretchier than antique 
stockings, but they are out there.

      If you can get a non-stretchy 18 stitches per inch, you could 
make stocking pieces to shape.  Knit a few rows, then hook the 
starter edge back onto the hooks to form the welt.  Knit some more, 
then move the outer 2 or 3 stitches one hook to the inside to 
decrease, knit a few rows and decrease, and etc.

      It may take a bit of experimenting, and if you're near me I can 
help and show you original stockings.

      If anyone is interested in seeing my collection, or a slide 
lecture, let me know.  I'm in the Washington, DC area, but it all 
packs up nicely for travel.

      -Carol
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Taffeta question again...
Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2006 11:47:20 -0600
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I'm familiar with the fashionfabricsclub lightweight taffeta, and it's 
definitely too lightweight for an outer layer.  I got a bunch from the 
outlet store to use for lining & facing, but this stuff is more like rustly 
habotai; I can't give you ounces, but I'd guess it's 12mm at the most.

I expect I'd be very happy with the 4 oz stuff, as I found the 2.25 
perfectly useable for the outer layer of a lined gown; it'd be great to have 
the option of the 5.3 oz stuff as well. Does your supplier have any 
shot/iridescent/changeable/crossdye/whatever she calls it taffeta?

-E House 

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Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2006 10:23:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Taffeta question again...
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> I'm familiar with the fashionfabricsclub lightweight taffeta, and it's
> definitely too lightweight for an outer layer.  I got a bunch from the
> outlet store to use for lining & facing, but this stuff is more like
> rustly
> habotai; I can't give you ounces, but I'd guess it's 12mm at the most.
>
> I expect I'd be very happy with the 4 oz stuff, as I found the 2.25
> perfectly useable for the outer layer of a lined gown; it'd be great to
> have
> the option of the 5.3 oz stuff as well. Does your supplier have any
> shot/iridescent/changeable/crossdye/whatever she calls it taffeta?

I will ask her, but I would think so.  Someone else asked me about this as
well.  I know she has stripes so I am excited about that.

I will let everyone know!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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X-Miltered: at persephone with ID 43C9547C.001 by Joe's j-chkmail (http://j-chkmail.ensmp.fr)!

Arh gosh, got an email this evening, Alexia has received my dress. She tells 
me her stays fits like a glove, and gives a wonderfull shape, and the dress 
fits perfectly.
I am the most happy of people today..........
It was quiet hassardes to make a dress without any fittings at all, but it 
was impossible because of the distance from New York to Copenhagen.
I need to finnish her chemise tomorrow and send so that the outfit is total, 
she promised to send pictures of her wearing it................ TAda 
tada.............

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval quote on underwear
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JAMES OGILVIE wrote:


> 
> One of the winter calendar pages of the Tres Riches Heures shows women and men doing this and none of them are wearing any underwear.


I'd have to say that none of them are _obviously_ wearing drawers.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
-----------------------------
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From: katherine sanders <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: non-slip gum for shoulder straps?
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Dear Joannah - thanks for this reply. I never did see
my original post so it must have been in a digest that
skipped me. I don't know if anyone else replied so
many apologies if it seems I've ignored any of your
suggestions! :-)

What I've actually done is recut the panel with the
strap added on, so it is now on the bias and is joined
on to the back panel above the eyelets and lacing.
That will, I hope, make it work and it gives a more
flattering line as it sits around the top edge of her
shoulders - less 'boulder holder', more 'graceful
decolletage'!

It is a very basic 5 panel mid-Victorian style with
gold busk (loops and studs) and made of black coutil
covered in a fancy chinese brocade. Very popular for
evening wear but the cost (for drafting and draping a
toile as well as construction) means I've only sold a
few so far, and none with straps. I might put a photo
up on my website once it's finished so will repost a
link if you like.

Thanks for the helpful thoughts,

Katherine

"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright


		
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Bjarne, I can't wait to see her pictures.  It was stunning enough on the 
dress form, it should be glorious worn on an actual person.
Michelle
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: medieval quote on underwear 
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>From: WickedFrau <wickedfrau@msn.com>
>...The City Virgins, and especially Gentlewomen, couer their heads, face,
>and backes with a Vaile, that they may not be seene passing the
>streetes, and in many
>places weare silke or linnen breeches vnder their gownes. (Italy)"

Now, now, all of thes quotes would seem to imply that maybe in different 
places and at different times people did things differently from each other 
- we know this can't be the case since everyone in history was upper class 
and did things exactly the same way...

(Sorry, I'm trying to get a chapter finished and it's given me a headache)

Ok, maybe we could look at this a different way.  Turn it around.  Instead 
of trying to figure out where and when women were wearing breeches of some 
sort -- why are we assuming they weren't?  And why are we assuming it was 
commonly done?   Is this one of those things we've just assumed because our 
view of the past is filtered *through* a period when it may have been this 
way (which seems to happen a lot)?

Marc


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From: Onaree Berard <msberard@gmail.com>
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Thanks!

For some silly reason I thought that I comes out in January.

Onaree <who is looking forward to it>


--
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I know this is last week's topic but.... I've just discovered 
calendars.com. If you haven't selected one for 2006 yet, have a look. 
They offer several nice historical themed calendars, including one on 
the unicorn tapestries (I think I'm getting that one) plus one of a book 
of hours, another with various selections of renaissance art, 
Michaelangelo, various 19th century romantic artists.... They also have 
a historical section with maps, castles, and gosh, just too many neat 
things to mention!


Dawn


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Unitil I read your review I really had no interest in this movie...I 
will wait till it is on DVD...but thanks!


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Pictures...We want Pictures!!!


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Why don't you contact the company?  I am sure they would help you.
Sg
Beth Chamberlain wrote:

>Is there someone who has Patterns of History's avant-garde gown who could
>give me the yardage requirements for size 10 (or something close)? I just
>ordered the pattern but I'm afraid the fabric I want will be gone if I wait
>for the pattern to show up.
>
> 
>
>Thanks
>
>Beth
>
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>
>  
>

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From: Gytha Stonegrinder <gythaofnorthumbria@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval Clothing and Textiles II--Any news?
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I think I understand the confusion... I preordered from Amazon and their estimated delivery date was 1/6-1/9/06, which is impossible from what you've said!  So we'll just wait patiently..... Thanks!  Kathy

Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:  
On Sat, 14 Jan 2006, Onaree Berard wrote:

> Has there been any news about Medieval Clothing and Textiles II. I
> thought that it was should be out by now, but it isn't.

Hi, Onaree. MC&T is an annual journal; it's scheduled to come out every
spring, in time for the Medieval Congress in Kalamazoo early in May.
Volume 2 is on track to be released in April, three months from now. (The
publisher has a date of April 1 on our webpage; they're British, so they
probably don't know why an American would find that amusing!)

We're done with the text proofs, and I saw the first proof of the book
jacket this week.

Contents for Vol. 2 are visible here:

http://www.boydell.co.uk/43832038.HTM

Amazon has a better price; I suspect that most people who buy from the
publisher are libraries and scholars with discounts. (There's a sizable
discount offered to people who go to Kalamazoo.)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1843832038

Feel free to contact me directly if you have any further questions.

--Robin

==========================================================
Robin Netherton 
Editor, Medieval Clothing and Textiles
robin@nightowl.net

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I have a Vogue book which shows it well.  Let me know if you would like 
me to scan and send it to you...

Sg

roscelinlimoges@comcast.net wrote:

>I've seen this stitch mentioned several times in directions for sewing, but can't seem to find a good example of it.  The stitch is a "blind stitch".  Does anyone have a good instructional example of it?  I'll want to teach myself it then teach my students.
>
>  
>

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That would be great, Sg.  Thanks!

Rose

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: WickedFrau <wickedfrau@msn.com>
> 
> I have a Vogue book which shows it well.  Let me know if you would like 
> me to scan and send it to you...
> 
> Sg
> 
> roscelinlimoges@comcast.net wrote:
> 
> >I've seen this stitch mentioned several times in directions for sewing, but 
> can't seem to find a good example of it.  The stitch is a "blind stitch".  Does 
> anyone have a good instructional example of it?  I'll want to teach myself it 
> then teach my students.
> >
> >  
> >
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] silk knit fabric: was: knit stockings
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Thai Silks sells it.  I bought some several years ago to make a mini 
sock for a fashion doll.

They sell it in two weights:
  034A 
<http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=034A>   
	Silk Knit, 155 Gram, 42" 
<http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=034A> 
	
  034B 
<http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=034B>   
	Silk Knit, 220 Gram, 49" 
<http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=034B> 



http://www.thaisilks.com/

Sg


Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hi Kelly,
> This was very generous of you to give your knolledge with this. May i 
> ask where did you buy your knitted material.
> I dont think i would be able to get it here in Denmark.
> There is a pattern in Costume Closeup from Colonial Williamsburg i 
> could use.
> Dont mind if it is cotton knit, it is better than my nylon ballet 
> danse tricot pans i use............. laughs.............
>
> Bjarne


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I wasn't assuming anything...I was just providing a source that compared 
an English traveler writing about other countries.  I am not trying to 
provide information to infer that it was more or less common either....

Sg

Marc Carlson wrote:

>
>
> Ok, maybe we could look at this a different way.  Turn it around.  
> Instead of trying to figure out where and when women were wearing 
> breeches of some sort -- why are we assuming they weren't?  And why 
> are we assuming it was commonly done?   Is this one of those things 
> we've just assumed because our view of the past is filtered *through* 
> a period when it may have been this way (which seems to happen a lot)?
>
> Marc


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It is on its way!  FYI, the Vogue sewing book can be picked up for 
nothin'.  There are some new sewing books out with photographs which are 
fab though!

Sg
roscelinlimoges@comcast.net wrote:

>That would be great, Sg.  Thanks!
>
>Rose
>
>  
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Stitch example?
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Roscelin,

Coming in late... I've been out of town.  I use this stitch on most of my 
hems.  Its my favorite hand-stitch.  Do you want to see it on a finished 
garment or do you need the directions?

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
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>From: WickedFrau <wickedfrau@msn.com>
>I wasn't assuming anything...I was just providing a source that compared
>an English traveler writing about other countries.  I am not trying to
>provide information to infer that it was more or less common either....
>
> > Ok, maybe we could look at this a different way.  Turn it around.
> > Instead of trying to figure out where and when women were wearing
> > breeches of some sort -- why are we assuming they weren't?  And why
> > are we assuming it was commonly done?   Is this one of those things
> > we've just assumed because our view of the past is filtered *through*
> > a period when it may have been this way (which seems to happen a lot)?

I was speaking more to the thread in general, not your message in 
particular.

Marc


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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: non-slip gum for shoulder straps?
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--- katherine sanders <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

Dear Joannah - thanks for this reply. I never did see
my original post so it must have been in a digest that
skipped me. I don't know if anyone else replied so
many apologies if it seems I've ignored any of your
suggestions! :-)

What I've actually done is recut the panel with the
strap added on, so it is now on the bias and is joined
on to the back panel above the eyelets and lacing.
That will, I hope, make it work and it gives a more
flattering line as it sits around the top edge of her
shoulders - less 'boulder holder', more 'graceful
decolletage'!

It is a very basic 5 panel mid-Victorian style with
gold busk (loops and studs) and made of black coutil
covered in a fancy chinese brocade. Very popular for
evening wear but the cost (for drafting and draping a
toile as well as construction) means I've only sold a
few so far, and none with straps. I might put a photo
up on my website once it's finished so will repost a
link if you like.

Thanks for the helpful thoughts,

Katherine

"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright

Katherine,

Heavens, no, personally I didn't think you were ignoring anyone - heck, most of the posts I have replied to recently have come about a week after the fact - that's about how far behind I am at the moment.

This is the only other response that I didn't delete, fortuitously, ( there were two in total, I think? ), from Suzi Clarke, Mon 01/09/06 11:00 AM:

<Contact MacCulloch and Wallis - they have, I think, special straps to 
<add to underwear. www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk
<
<Otherwise, use a piece of elastic, made slightly shorter than the 
<strap, stitched at both ends, and herringboned across the length. Sew 
<it to the underside. That one works for me. Or use elastic to attach 
<the straps at the front. That also works - might not be "authentic" 
<but needs must sometimes.
<
<Suzi 

>From your description above, and your inital post, I'm assuming that the corset is being used as a bodice, and the straps are for your customer's peace of mind and reassurance, rather than being used as a period undergarment? ( Just interested, since as far as I know, victorian corsets didn't normally have straps. ) And, the thought just occurred to me, if was being used as a foundation under clothes, the clothes over the top would help to hold everything in place. :-)

Anyway, your solution sounds workable, and I hope it does work to the satisfaction of you both. 

I'd love to see pictures!

Regards,
Joannah

BTW, your signature tag makes me smile every time I see it. ;->




		


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I am late in on the conversation, but I didn't see anyone mentioning the 
duct-tape forms you can make.  Depending on how big your commercial 
dummy is, you can even use it as most of the stuffing.  I have even made 
these for clients, unstuffed and restuffed them years later for new 
garments.  Just be sure you find good quality duct tape...otherwise it 
stretches!

Sg
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk knit fabric: was: knit stockings
Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2006 20:21:08 +0100
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