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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Crisps?
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And what is Irn Bru?

Bright orange Scottish 'fruit' flavoured fizzy drink, 'made in Scotland from 
girders'.

http://www.irn-bru.co.uk/

Debs
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From: lisa <lisleong@k12.hi.us>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress forms
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> To the person who was enquiring about dressforms...

Someone may already have posted this but the latest issue of Threads 
magazine has a whole section on different brands of dress forms and their 
characteristics.

--lisa
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric question SOT
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>I am looking for a light weight material to make a banner.
> I have been recommended Silk Noil as a possible fabric.
> How sturdy is silk noil

Not very. If you're going to use noil, you might as well use 100% cotton.
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Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 23:14:56 +0000 (GMT)
From: katherine sanders <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] gifts for Brits - tablet and Irn Bru: quite firmly OT!
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>Rhonda mentioned tablet - we don't even have that in
England. I 
>discovered it when I went to the Orkney Islands in
2003; the >hotel gave us a square of it with our
after-dinner coffee >onstead of a mint. (It's a 
>hard fudge made in blocks which can be broken into
squares like >a chocolate bar.)

As a Scot and therefore long-time sugar addict, I feel
qualified to comment on this - for a change!

My dad makes awesome 'tablet' and it is a similar
mixture to fudge but it has a more crystalline
structure so yes, it is breakable similar to chocolate
and not squidgy, like fudge, but the /best/ tablet has
a melt in the mouth butteriness that is rarely found
in commercially produced stuff. The closest you'll get
are the little 'heart-attacks in a packet' called
"Orkney Fudge" 
http://www.realfooddirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=1013

"Irn Bru" is a soda/fizzy soft drink that is orange in
colour and of indeterminate flavour. The advert used
to say "Made in Scotland, from girders" i.e. iron
bars, so I'd say it's sort of metallic... but nice!
You can now get Irn Bru chews which are bliss and make
my teeth ache.
http://www.sweetsncandy.co.uk/proddetail.asp?prod=IRNBRU060&cat=15

Diabetes? Me??? :-)

Sorry for digression but I've a childhood affection
for both.

Katherine

"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright


		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] H-Cost list errors?
Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 19:26:58 -0500
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I don't know if anybody else has written, but the list has been its usual 
active self, so if you still aren't receiving it there might be a problem at 
your end.

Good luck!

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Angela F Lazear" <angelalazear@sbcglobal.net>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 10:05 PM
Subject: [h-cost] H-Cost list errors?


I have not received mail from the list for several days now, and wanted to 
be sure that nothing had changed in my subscription.  I could resub if it's 
necessary, but wanted to check first to see what's up.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
W. Shakespeare
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Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 16:29:49 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT -- tablet
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At 02:56 PM 1/31/2006, you wrote:

>>Tablet is a pure sugar rush - My Mom
>>used to make it when we were kids and we called it fried fudge.  Had no
>>idea it was called butter tablet elsewhere.
>
>I am very intrigued by this. Google is my friend:
>http://www3.sympatico.ca/scruss/tablet.html
>
>clear, step by step directions. Doesn't seem difficult, but it does 
>sound tasty.
>
>I've tried, but I can't think if a single way to make this costume related!
>Denise

You need an apron =-O!


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 18:35:41 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: david webb <alderweb@vaxxine.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bodleian Corset Images, Trade Cards
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Status: RO

I just realized that my bookmarks aren't working  for this site either. 
It's not the most friendly, intuitive site, but not too hostile either.

Bodacious Basic Bodliean url: http://www.rsl.ox.ac.uk/

Click on "Online Catalogue and electronic resources" link  (on left) 
to  get to:
http://www.bodley.ox.ac.uk/elec-res.html

Click on "John Johnson Collection" to get to:
http://www.bodley.ox.ac.uk/elec-res.html

The top of this next page will say:

The John Johnson Collection of Printed Ephemera
COPYRIGHT INFORMATION


Then you have to scroll to the very bottom of that page,

I understand that copyright in the images belongs to The Bodleian Library, 
Oxford, and I accept the conditions explained above for access to the images.

Click on the blue highlighted "I accept the conditions" (the  copyright 
conditions - nothing too onerous since they allow "use for private study", 
the angels.

Click on "Catalogue" on the red window on the left-hand side to search. 
There is also and "Exhibition" button which is an online exhibition of some 
of the collection, broken down by various themes. I think I mostly used 
Index "5-Subjects, Trades, Products" to search in, using stays or corsets 
to search in.

Have fun exploring. I'm leaving  for a conference tomorrow so I won't be 
back until the weekend. I hope that these instructions more helpful.

Sheridan



At 11:24 PM 1/30/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>David? Sheridan?
>
>I would LOVE to see the images you're talking about, but I can't figure out
>how to use the system.  Could you be a little more specific?  Thank you!
>
>Martha
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Paying for color copies: was 16th Century "Nationality"
	Dress	Characteristics...long
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> Just out of curiousity, how much did the color copy cost?  Always
> looking for cool color pictures -- especially of embroidery!

I have paid up to $100 for a color reprint.  That was of a painting not 
currently on exhibit (in America) , and supposedly the museum did not 
have a color copy (which I think was probably BS).  I have paid £10 for 
a black and white reprint, and the least I have paid is for a color 
transparency is  £35.  The latter was a rental and is like a large 
slide.  Shipping and handling is extra and is about £6 in each of those 
cases.  I was allowed to make a copy for the purposes of the slide show.

The biggest hindrance is having a "legitimate" reason for wanting one.  
Fortunately I was in graduate school this past year doing research so I 
didn't have to fib about that, and since I was doing a presentation at 
the Phoenix Art Museum, they seemed to accept that.  But I had to 
explain all that.  I wouldn't let it inhibit you...all they can say is 
no. Surprisingly enough, if you can find a postcard of the painting 
those scan very well,  (I think the detail on a least one I got was 
better than some of the detail on the transparencies I have received.) 
and I have had some places send those to me gratis...they even paid 
postage!  I asked for a more detailed, higher resolution for a painting 
on IMAREAL and they sent that to me, no questions asked, on a CD!

Good point about Anguissola....that would be a good comparison to see if 
I could find a match..  I have responded to the list since I had 
multiple inquiries about the same thing....

Sg

>
>>

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Subject: [h-cost] What to do with old clothes
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Better than donations to charity, more value-add than quilting from
clothing scraps, launch your suit into orbit! This fabulous news from
spaceweather.com

SUITSAT:  On February 3rd, astronauts plan to hurl an old spacesuit
overboard from the International Space Station.  The disembodied suit,
nicknamed "SuitSat," will proceed to circle Earth, transmitting a
radio message which anyone can hear using a police scanner or a ham
radio tuned to 145.990 MHz FM.  This strange experiment is a test of a
sensible idea--that old spacesuits might be transformed into useful
satellites.

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Danish Noble extant wardrobe inventories
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Tania, you might want to ask Bjarne...he'd probably know.
Sg
Tania Gruning wrote:

>    Hiya all.
>   
>  I am wondering if anyone know of any danish noble/royal inventories that are intact? We have had some major royal castle burnings, but could be they were stored elsewhere. I am especially looking for the 16'th century.
>   
>  Tania
>
>
>			
>---------------------------------
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] extant wardrobe inventories
Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 22:17:34 -0800
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On Jan 31, 2006, at 5:21 AM, Joan Jurancich wrote:

> At 04:44 AM 1/31/2006, you wrote:
>> I've seen the word "Exant". What does this mean in costume terms?
>> [snip]
>
> It just means that the inventory of the wardrobe still exists.  We  
> don't have very many extant (i.e., surviving) clothing pieces.

It depends on what you mean by "very many".  Compared to how many  
were made and worn--no.  Compared to how many people _think_ are  
still extant -- you might be surprised.  (I know I have been.)

Heather

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Status: RO

Okay, this is overwhelming!

So, basically, there are two "easy" patterns out there:  JP Ryan and
Butterick.

And from all the discussion, it looks like there are a variety of
preferences for the boning:

- cable ties
- reed
- metal
- plastic (but it sounds like this is not the ideal option, since plastic is
sweaty no matter where you live).

Well, I guess as I work on finishing the current garment, I'll start
planning for the corset... at least the first one.  At this point, I suppose
I'm just making a costume, but as I continue and learn, I'll be able
to construct things a little more authentically.

Our winter in Eastern PA has been fairly mild... it actually hit the 60's
this week!

Kristin

On 1/31/06, Mia Dappert <snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hi Mia,
>
> The petticoat is cotton, but with a nice sateen to it. I thought it would
> at least imitate the look of silk to a certain extent.
>
> I'd really like to have a more authentic pair of stays before starting a
> second outfit. I've been thinking about trying to draft my own pattern -
> but haven't been really sure where to start. The other question, is
> whether
> to use the plastic boning, or go the metal route... and then which type...
> and how does one get the right sizes? Tin-snips? I've already purchased a
> yard of duck-cloth, and a couple of yards of cotton twill in white and
> red.
>
> I'm just doing this to do it. I suppose I could use it for halloween next
> year... although a couple people have suggested using it as a wedding
> dress. I made my own dress for my first marriage, so I've been trying to
> avoid thinking about the possibility of making another one... although I
> do
> have about 10 yards of some gorgeous white cotton damask. Hmmm... a
> sacque? I suppose, once I get more comfortable making several items, I may
> risk making something out of silk... but until then, I'll stick with
> what's
> affordable.
>
> Kristin
>
>
> Oh stays..., I've done several, but since I'm an active reenactor, and
> trying to progress to a more authentic reenactor, my solutions, might not be
> your solutions.
> Like I said, the butterick pattern seems to be good, especially for 3rd
> quarter or so 18th c. Making 18c stays is not as hard as one might
> think.  just somewhat time consuming.  And I always have challenges with the
> fit. For the stays I've done I've,
> 1.  used the J.P Ryan patterns (very nice- and gives that good ice cream
> cone shape.)  I used metal and cable ties and that stringy box binding stuff
> that is almost like whale bone...this is not a good description, but I
> really don't know how to do better.  These were really nice.
> 2.  used the later 18c pattern from Hunnicut,  and blew it up on a copy
> machine.  these were nice too.  I used basket cane and metal bones at the
> stress points.  These were nice too
> 3.  Back to JP Ryan for the pattern, bound in leather, wool covered, fully
> boned, cable ties and metal in stress points, cane everywhere else.  They
> are really beautiful.
> 3.  on the table to do now.  the butterick pattern, cut out in linen, will
> be halfboned with ?
>
> All done on the machine
>
> For me basket caning works, but i am frequently out in the heat of a North
> Carolina Summer.  Anything Plastic just doesn't breathe enough for me.  I've
> never had a piece of cane break.  and boy does it support!!
>
> Choice of patterns ...JP Ryan is good, the butterick is good.  I don't
> have the skills to draft one from scratch and have it come out looking like
> I want it to.
>
> Again all these choices are based on where you are wearing it, and what
> you want it for.  Costume and just for fun has different needs than
> reenactor and museum work.
>
> 18c Mia in Charlotte, NC  where there is no sign of winter.  Boy i'm not
> looking forward to another hot summer... gotta get those linen stays done.
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Bring words and photos together (easily) with
> PhotoMail  - it's free and works with Yahoo! Mail.
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I would consider Robert  Trump to be an expert BTW.  He is with the St. 
Louis Opera still I believe.

Sg
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Subject: [h-cost] History of the Parasol
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Hi all,

I've recently written an article on the history of the parasol through
the 16th and early 17th centuries.  

Over the last 4 or 5 years, reenactors and faire people have repeatedly
told me "parasols aren’t period."  I've had the evidence to support
their use for at least as long, but I finally decided to make a formal
article about it.  

Although I am selling items elsewhere on this site, my goal with this
article wasn't to sell more, but to provide reenactors with the
evidence to dispel this particular myth.  So, I invite anyone
interested to have a look.  You may check out the article at
http://www.margaretroedesigns.com/parasolhist.html.

I will be forwarding this article to several lists during the next few
days, so I apologize if you receive this several times. 

I hope you all enjoy,
Margaret Roe


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Feb  1 09:26:14 2006
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] History of the Parasol
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Fascinating article, Margaret! Your parasols look great.

One minor point; Sir Henry Unton would be referred to as "Sir Henry", not "Sir Unton". ( "Sir" is never used with the family name alone. I suppose knighthood existed before surnames were established.)


Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Danish Noble extant wardrobe inventories
Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2006 15:06:41 +0100
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Hi,
Rigsarkivet has some i know. For instance the whole portefeuille that went 
to Sweden when Sophia Magdalena married Gustav III in Sweden 1766. Her whole 
wardrobe is there documented. I dont know how far back they go though, but i 
believe i have read refferences to renaissance inventories in the danish 
book called Dagligliv i Norden i det 16. år. Af Troels Lund.
Sorry for being late, ben buisy embroidering :-)

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "WickedFrau" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 3:26 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Danish Noble extant wardrobe inventories


> Tania, you might want to ask Bjarne...he'd probably know.
> Sg
> Tania Gruning wrote:
>
>>    Hiya all.
>>   I am wondering if anyone know of any danish noble/royal inventories 
>> that are intact? We have had some major royal castle burnings, but could 
>> be they were stored elsewhere. I am especially looking for the 16'th 
>> century.
>>   Tania
>>
>>
>> ---------------------------------
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>>
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How about approaching the fashion magazines, sewing magazines, or big design 
houses with a proposal?  Or museums?

Nancy Kiel
nancy_kiel@hotmail.com
Never tease a weasel!
This is very good advice.
For the weasel will not like it
And teasing isn't nice.




>From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] extant wardrobe inventories
>Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2006 16:44:59 -0600 (CST)
>
>(He developed a
>reasonable familiarity with costume terms because of the nature of that
>work, but I would guess costume research doesn't pay the bills the way
>family history or heraldic research does.)
>
>--Robin
>
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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Boning/reeds yet again
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<--- "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com> wrote:
<
<I'm bracing myself to do yet another corset with tabs.  This time I would
<like to use something besides steel because the steels that go down into the
<tabs from the corset itself tend to bend and stay bent.  Besides, they are
expensive.
<
<I happen to have some real whale bone, both as stay size pieces and as an
<entire frond.  The young man who gave me the stays told me "don't ask", but
<I suspect they came from Japan.  The small frond I got on E-Bay and came
<with a certificate that it was gotten pre-ban and legally.     I got it
<mainly so I could have something to show when teaching.
<
<Problem is that once you have handled the "real thing" you aren't going to
<be impressed with cable ties as a substitute.  So reeds/broom straw seems a
better answer.
<
<I know that several people have used reed successfully.  How big?  Where did
<you get it?  Either this or maybe a nice broom and lots of quilting thread?
<
<I did check the archives, but didn't see exactly what I was looking for.  Do
<I want 1/4" oval, 1.5mm round reed, 1mm round reed?  Broom?
<
<One reason I particularly want a new corset is because I have done something
<to my back.  On 12th night I knew I was going to be wearing a 35 pound
<houpeland (BIG Sleeves, Velvet lined with light weight wool, full circle)
<and was willing to bet my back was not going to be happy.  I put on my Tudor
<corset made from the corset generator pattern with added tabs and was
<comfortable for 18 hours!  I'm beginning to think this is what I want for
<work as well.  I'm pleasingly plump ;-) and a B cup but I have _hips_ (bum
<roll?  what bum roll?) so the tiny waist immediately flairs out to quite
<substantial hips (weebles wobble, but they don't fall down.)  This means
<that the tabs are a point of considerable strain for any stiffening.
<
<Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey

Wanda,

My effigy-style corset is boned with broomstraw which is astonishingly rigid, but with a little bit of flex. I can't bend over in it, though. The broomstraw isn't millet straw, but something called 'Darwin fibre' - unfortunately the broom company from which I got it has gone out of business. ( I got some millet straw, but I didn't think it would be strong enough. Nor was it long enough. The Darwin fibre looks very much like the reeds/bents in one of the stomachers in Janet Arnold's PoF, I  can't remember which one, offhand. ) The straws are approx. 1mm diameter, with I think somewhere between 10 and 20 straws on average going into each channel. The channels are the width of half of the presser foot on my sewing machine - approx. 5-6mm wide. 

The straws extend down into the tabs, and so far are holding up well to the strain: I have your problem - bumroll, what bumroll? The tabs don't actually flare that acutely - they sort of smooth things out.

The other thing which I have used successfully in the same style corset is hemp cord, the same as on this page:

http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/cording/cord.html

The good thing about the hemp cord is that it allows complete freedom of movement, while providing excellent support. On of my friends whose corset is boned with hemp cord has actually slept in it. ( I can lie down in my straw-boned corset, but it's not really the most comfortable thing to do. ) My next corset is going to be done with hemp cord - I need to be able to move in camp.

Hope this helps.

Joannah. 



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From: katherine sanders <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: [h-cost] Re: the virgin queen
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>Watched Episode 2 last night. The men's a
>anachronistic breeches were more obvious this week 
>(though I liked the tennis scenes), and, as someone
>commented, the women's skirts don't look as though
>they have enough support (perhaps the designers
>thought that farthingales would look as odd  to
>modern eyes as they thought trunk-hose would).
>Kate Bunting
>Librarian and 17th century reenactor

I know. I don't think I can watch it any more, it's
just annoying me EVERY time I see them supposedly
being regal and just looking floppy (skirted)... Mind
you, Kevin McKidd looked mighty fine playing real
tennis :-) so it's not all bad!!

Katherine the not easily pleased.



"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright


		
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Subject: [h-cost] inventories o/t Queen Sofie
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There is an exhibition at Kronborg Castle in North Sealand, Denmark about 
the wedding of Frederik II and Sofie, his queen to be.
They reconstrukted her weddingdress, and this link only shows a poor picture 
of it.
Its after a portrait, and i think they did a very fine job.....
http://www.ses.dk/58000a/GSID/661100
Sofie came from Germany and became queen in Denmark.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
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Subject: [h-cost] wedding dress of prinsesse Sofie
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Hi sorry.
There are more pictures of the dress if you go to:
http://www.ses.dk/58000a/GSID/661100
Scroll down and there are 2 links written in blue.
The first gives pictures of the opening of the exhibition with pictures of 
the dress,  the second link is a windows movieclip about the wedding..

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What to do with old clothes
Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2006 11:25:45 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Thanks for the info.  Interesting...

Other old clothes can be "recycled" by dropping them off at Animal 
Shelters to be used as rags or bedding for the shelter animals.  
Stained and "raggy" towels and other textiles are also useful to the 
shelters.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Jan 31, 2006, at 6:15 PM, Cin wrote:

> Better than donations to charity, more value-add than quilting from
> clothing scraps, launch your suit into orbit! This fabulous news from
> spaceweather.com
>
> SUITSAT:  On February 3rd, astronauts plan to hurl an old spacesuit
> overboard from the International Space Station.  The disembodied suit,
> nicknamed "SuitSat," will proceed to circle Earth, transmitting a
> radio message which anyone can hear using a police scanner or a ham
> radio tuned to 145.990 MHz FM.  This strange experiment is a test of a
> sensible idea--that old spacesuits might be transformed into useful
> satellites.
>
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: ruthanneb@mindspring.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] History of the Parasol
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REALLY interesting article!
Two little nits--when you mention "parare, to shield" in the etymology of "parasol," you should also mention "sol, sun."
And please, in possessive form of "it," NO apostrophe.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy (English) and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
>From: mlysett <mlysett@yahoo.com>
>Sent: Jan 31, 2006 10:27 PM
>To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] History of the Parasol
>
>Hi all,
>
>I've recently written an article on the history of the parasol through
>the 16th and early 17th centuries.  
>
>Over the last 4 or 5 years, reenactors and faire people have repeatedly
>told me "parasols aren’t period."  I've had the evidence to support
>their use for at least as long, but I finally decided to make a formal
>article about it.  
>
>Although I am selling items elsewhere on this site, my goal with this
>article wasn't to sell more, but to provide reenactors with the
>evidence to dispel this particular myth.  So, I invite anyone
>interested to have a look.  You may check out the article at
>http://www.margaretroedesigns.com/parasolhist.html.
>
>I will be forwarding this article to several lists during the next few
>days, so I apologize if you receive this several times. 
>
>I hope you all enjoy,
>Margaret Roe
>
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
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>_______________________________________________
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From: ruthanneb@mindspring.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wedding dress of prinsesse Sofie
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"She" looks beautiful--so simple and elegant. What are the fabrics, do you know?
Thanks!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
>From: Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>Sent: Feb 1, 2006 11:11 AM
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] wedding dress of prinsesse Sofie
>
>Hi sorry.
>There are more pictures of the dress if you go to:
>http://www.ses.dk/58000a/GSID/661100
>Scroll down and there are 2 links written in blue.
>The first gives pictures of the opening of the exhibition with pictures of 
>the dress,  the second link is a windows movieclip about the wedding..
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wedding dress of prinsesse Sofie
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 5:38 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wedding dress of prinsesse Sofie


> "She" looks beautiful--so simple and elegant. What are the fabrics, do you 
> know?
> Thanks!
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer


Hi,
I have not gone to se it yeat, but my guess is that it is made of red velvet 
with gold.
The sleaves and the underdress i dont know!
There is a portrait of her in that dress, but it only shows a little of the 
gown.
She was the mother of our later king Christian IV, who builded many castles 
in Denmark. There is a saying about her birth of Christian. It was a very 
hot summers day, and she had ordered herself and some maids over to a little 
island lying just besides the Frederiksborg Castle. She came into labours, 
and gave birth to Christian there on the island.

Bjarne 


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Hi all, I just got my copy of "Petite Dames du Mode" and it is all I had hoped for. It sure is inspiring for attempts of replication of by gone fashion.

Also, my small crank pinker is Wonderful.  It is about the size of a meat grinder that screws on to the table. There is a thumbnail guide re the spacing of the fabric being pinked.  This helps the fabric to self feed as you crank...in the like manner of the early sewing machines.  I prepared strips of fabric the other eve to be rusched and ran about 4 yards through the pinker in about 2 min. The fabric I was using was a very soft Egyptian cotton.  The edges are somewhat feathery but uniform.  Using a stiffer textile, I got the sharp zigzag one would expect.

Martha Washington's Robe Anglais is looking very spiffy.
Kathleen
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So your experience with noil is that it isn't a sturdy fabric?

De

-----Original Message-----
>I am looking for a light weight material to make a banner.
> I have been recommended Silk Noil as a possible fabric.
> How sturdy is silk noil

Not very. If you're going to use noil, you might as well use 100% cotton.


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Date: Wed, 01 Feb 2006 16:37:43 -0500
From: "Jeanine E. Swick" <jeanine@woollycat.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT -- tablet
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Land of Oz wrote:

> I've tried, but I can't think if a single way to make this costume 
> related!
> Denise
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>
Be careful how much you eat or your costumes won't fit?  ;) 

Jeanine

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Date: Wed, 01 Feb 2006 16:45:35 -0500
From: "Jeanine E. Swick" <jeanine@woollycat.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What to do with old clothes
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I'll pass this along to some of the ham radio people I know.  Actually 
I'll get my husband to put it in the next issue of our radio club's 
newsletter (he's the editor).

Jeanine
n1qit


Cin wrote:

>Better than donations to charity, more value-add than quilting from
>clothing scraps, launch your suit into orbit! This fabulous news from
>spaceweather.com
>
>SUITSAT:  On February 3rd, astronauts plan to hurl an old spacesuit
>overboard from the International Space Station.  The disembodied suit,
>nicknamed "SuitSat," will proceed to circle Earth, transmitting a
>radio message which anyone can hear using a police scanner or a ham
>radio tuned to 145.990 MHz FM.  This strange experiment is a test of a
>sensible idea--that old spacesuits might be transformed into useful
>satellites.
>
>--cin
>Cynthia Barnes
>CinBarnes@gmail.com
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
>
>  
>

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For garmets I've found noil to be very sturdy, but the edges to have to be 
carefully finished.  However, I would not recommend using it for a banner. 
It doesn't look like silk.  It looks like slubby linen. Also, it is not 
color fast and will continue to shed dye every time you wash it.  The cream 
noil lining of my green & blue noil dress is definitely now pale teal.  If 
you're using high contrast colors, they will likely bleed on each other if 
it gets wet.

You can get much lighter silks for probably about the same price.  A friend 
who does silk dyed banners recommends Habotai.  Check Dharma Traders.

Tayla


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 12:50 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Fabric question SOT


> So your experience with noil is that it isn't a sturdy fabric?
>
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
>>I am looking for a light weight material to make a banner.
>> I have been recommended Silk Noil as a possible fabric.
>> How sturdy is silk noil
>
> Not very. If you're going to use noil, you might as well use 100% cotton.
>
>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Feb  1 17:01:13 2006
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] thanks for your replyes of my embroideries and prices
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Hi all,
Sorry that i got buisy and didnt answer all your nice replyes to the 
questions i gave about prices and embroidery.
I suddently got an invitation for a Hunting Feast in Germany at the end of 
this month, and therefore got much more buisy than usual.
A lady and her daughter invited me, and i have to make them embroidered 
purses as gifts.
But worth of all i have to make myself a new suit!
The party will last for 2 days, and there will be strolls in a castle wood 
nearby. This makes me want to bring 2 costumes with me. My blue suit for the 
evenings and a new one i have to make. I originally planned to embroider 
this fabric, but i have to cancel this. I will make it just plain with nice 
buttonholes.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/the_pursuit_of_fashionembroidery.htm
The bottom.
Ill make a pale yellow waistcoat also plain for this jacket and 
breeches............
The green taffeta is shot in green and gold.
I cant wear the embroidered old suit anymore. The embroidery is compleately 
worned out at the innersides of the cuffs. Its the gold bullion threads, 
that ruined the silk embroidery threads..............

Bjarne






Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Dear Kathleen,

Where did you get this pinker? I would love to buy one...

Thanks,
Michaela
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 8:19 PM
Subject: [h-cost] book


Hi all, I just got my copy of "Petite Dames du Mode" and it is all I had
hoped for. It sure is inspiring for attempts of replication of by gone
fashion.

Also, my small crank pinker is Wonderful.  It is about the size of a meat
grinder that screws on to the table. There is a thumbnail guide re the
spacing of the fabric being pinked.  This helps the fabric to self feed as
you crank...in the like manner of the early sewing machines.  I prepared
strips of fabric the other eve to be rusched and ran about 4 yards through
the pinker in about 2 min. The fabric I was using was a very soft Egyptian
cotton.  The edges are somewhat feathery but uniform.  Using a stiffer
textile, I got the sharp zigzag one would expect.

Martha Washington's Robe Anglais is looking very spiffy.
Kathleen
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From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Danish Noble extant wardrobe inventories
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Of Course Bjarne.
  Embroidering is more interesting than answering questions I should be able to find myself ;-)
   
  Tania

Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
  Hi,
Rigsarkivet has some i know. For instance the whole portefeuille that went 
to Sweden when Sophia Magdalena married Gustav III in Sweden 1766. Her whole 
wardrobe is there documented. I dont know how far back they go though, but i 
believe i have read refferences to renaissance inventories in the danish 
book called Dagligliv i Norden i det 16. år. Af Troels Lund.
Sorry for being late, ben buisy embroidering :-)

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "WickedFrau" 
To: "Historical Costume" 
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 3:26 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Danish Noble extant wardrobe inventories


> Tania, you might want to ask Bjarne...he'd probably know.
> Sg
> Tania Gruning wrote:
>
>> Hiya all.
>> I am wondering if anyone know of any danish noble/royal inventories 
>> that are intact? We have had some major royal castle burnings, but could 
>> be they were stored elsewhere. I am especially looking for the 16'th 
>> century.
>> Tania
>>
>>
>> ---------------------------------
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>>
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I'm hoping the wisdom of the list can come to my rescue here.

I'm putting together a heraldic cloak using a blanket weight winter white wool as the base fabric.  This is a cloak I plan to wear and use, so I'm not expect it to stay good as new.  But I would like to make it even slightly stain resistant if possible?  I don't want to harm the characteristics of the wool, but a little stain prevention would be nice.  Any ideas?

Tayla  
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Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2006 22:46:18 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Crisps?
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It has at least as much caffeine as Coca Cola, and more sugar.  I have 
known all-night programming/gaming types go back to the US and be unable 
to keep awake on Coke, having got used to Irn Bru!

Also recommended in Scotland as a hangover cure.

Jean


Debloughcostumes@aol.com wrote
>
>And what is Irn Bru?
>
>Bright orange Scottish 'fruit' flavoured fizzy drink, 'made in Scotland from
>girders'.
>
>http://www.irn-bru.co.uk/
>
>Debs
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: [h-cost] Queen Sophie's reconstructed dress
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Just been surfing for information for my current project and came across 
this page
http://www.rosenborgslot.dk/v1/person.asp?PersonID=12&countryID=2&PersonTypeID=2

with the portrait of Queen Sophie.

Thought you might like to see it.
Kelly 
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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?
Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2006 20:25:22 -0500
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Status: RO

ScotchGuard the wool?

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 1, 2006, at 3:05 PM, Sablerose wrote:

> I'm hoping the wisdom of the list can come to my rescue here.
>
> I'm putting together a heraldic cloak using a blanket weight winter 
> white wool as the base fabric.  This is a cloak I plan to wear and 
> use, so I'm not expect it to stay good as new.  But I would like to 
> make it even slightly stain resistant if possible?  I don't want to 
> harm the characteristics of the wool, but a little stain prevention 
> would be nice.  Any ideas?
>
> Tayla
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2006 21:51:31 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: 18c stays
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>And from all the discussion, it looks like there are a variety of
>preferences for the boning:
>
>- cable ties
>- reed
>- metal

1/4" white steel
1/2" white steel
1/4" spiral
1/2" spiral

>- plastic

Dritz featherboning
1/4" Rigiline
1/2" Rigiline
Wissner (the German type) in several widths and thicknesses
And there is another type - I remember seeing it sold by Grannd Garb.

>(but it sounds like this is not the ideal option, since plastic is 
>sweaty no matter where you live).

      It's all sweaty.  Metal does not "breathe", though I suppose the 
spiral type is more permeable than the white steel.  Rigiline is also 
a woven thing, but it's nylon & polyester.

      A lot of it is a matter of body type and the amount of support 
wanted.  They had fully-boned and half-boned stays.  Half-boned will 
breathe more no matter what boning material is used.

      I never had a problem with sweaty stays - I find a linen shift 
underneath is quite comfy.  At an outdoor event in 90 degrees, 
everyone is hot no matter what they are wearing.  A handkerchief also 
keeps for sun protection.

      -Carol
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Crisps?
Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2006 20:07:08 -0700
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The best (used loosely) beverage equivalents for staying-awake purposes (at
least, here in the U.S.) would be Mountain Dew, and Jolt.  Jolt advertises
itself as having "all the sugar and twice the caffeine" of regular colas.  I
know it kept me awake a time or two (or three...<g>) when I was in college.
Dunno about using it for a hangover cure, though.  I've been known to use a
good, cold Coke Classic or two to help whomp a migraine, though....
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jean Waddie" <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 3:46 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Crisps?


> It has at least as much caffeine as Coca Cola, and more sugar.  I have
> known all-night programming/gaming types go back to the US and be unable
> to keep awake on Coke, having got used to Irn Bru!
>
> Also recommended in Scotland as a hangover cure.
>
> Jean
>
>
> Debloughcostumes@aol.com wrote
> >
> >And what is Irn Bru?
> >
> >Bright orange Scottish 'fruit' flavoured fizzy drink, 'made in Scotland
from
> >girders'.
> >
> >http://www.irn-bru.co.uk/
> >
> >Debs


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric question SOT
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Habotai is good too - but potentially *any* strong coloured silks will run if 
the rain is heavy enough, as they're generally manufactured as dry clean 
only, so it's never intended that they'll com into contact with huge amounts of 
water.

Debbie

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In a message dated 2/2/06 3:01:58 AM GMT Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> Also recommended in Scotland as a hangover cure.
> 
> Jean

for which it works wonderfully!!

Debs
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In a message dated 2/2/06 3:01:58 AM GMT Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> The best (used loosely) beverage equivalents for staying-awake purposes (at
> least, here in the U.S.) would be Mountain Dew,

Nigel (other half) was incredibly upset when they withdrew mountain dew over 
here, cos he loved it (couldn't stand it personally).

But we also have red bull as a stay awake thing - fabulous since they brought 
in the sugar free one - but incredibly bad for you - huge quantities of 
caffiene, and taurine, just for that extra kick!

Oh - and to bring the crisps etc thing back on topic, a friend once made a 
pair of trouers out of old crisp packets...
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Thank you for all the feedback. Creating a website for  Nostalgic Needle was 
a bigger endeavor than I realized it would be. 
 
Sorry about the typos, "bukkion," should have  read "bullion," 
 
The top of each page has the email address, however a  contact us link is a 
good idea.
 
The reason we hadn't put any links was so would not alienate  any of the many 
shops that carry Nostalgic Needle charts. When we update  will have to 
include a list of shops and their links. Four shops that do carry  Nostalgic Needle 
are:
 
_Needlework Samplers Traditional  Stitches_ (http://traditionalstitches.com/) 
 
 
_http://www.emlis.com/nostalgic.htm_ (http://www.emlis.com/nostalgic.htm)   
 
Lucia's Needle Arts
1948 S. Main St.
Mansfield, PA  16933-9700
1-888-662-7024
_www.flyingneedle.com_ (http://www.flyingneedle.com/) 
_flying@epix.net_ (mailto:flying@epix.net) 


_www.crisscrossrow.com_ (http://www.crisscrossrow.com) 
Thanks again for all  the responses, 
Ola
 
At 5:46 PM -0500 1/30/06, ruthanneb@mindspring.com wrote:
>I agree  with Ann. I used Safari on a Mac OS X and it was fine--pages 
>loaded very  quickly. The colors were quite nice for me, and the 
>design of the pages  was clear and consistent. I liked the stitch 
>listings (is there really a  stitch called "bukkion," though? I'd 
>have thought "bullion," but I'm not  an advanced student of 
>embroidery!
>Order and contact information  are really needed for this appetizing 
>presentation.

Yes, I think  a bit of copy-editing is needed in a few places. I think 
I noticed  "splender" (for splendor), "acron" (for acorn), and "The 
inspiration for  this sampler are..."

I gather that these kits are not available from the  website directly? 
If they are, ordering info is definitely needed. If not, a  link to 
some retailers who carry them would be much  appreciated.

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?
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Susan Data-Samtak wrote:

> ScotchGuard the wool?
> 

Yup, especially the hems and shoulders. Renew anually. Spray OUTSIDE.



Dawn



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] book
Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2006 23:23:08 -0500
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This was a 'by chance' item on e-Bay. I happened to look in on a sellers
other items. We have had a discussion of pinkers on the List before.  There
seem to be some modern repros of tools that will "pink" out there but they
do not seem to be as convenient as this old 19th C. tool proves to be.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michaela Feudtner" <feudtner@festefeiern-online.de>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 4:00 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] book


> Dear Kathleen,
>
> Where did you get this pinker? I would love to buy one...
>
> Thanks,
> Michaela
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
> To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 8:19 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] book
>
>
> Hi all, I just got my copy of "Petite Dames du Mode" and it is all I had
> hoped for. It sure is inspiring for attempts of replication of by gone
> fashion.
>
> Also, my small crank pinker is Wonderful.  It is about the size of a meat
> grinder that screws on to the table. There is a thumbnail guide re the
> spacing of the fabric being pinked.  This helps the fabric to self feed as
> you crank...in the like manner of the early sewing machines.  I prepared
> strips of fabric the other eve to be rusched and ran about 4 yards through
> the pinker in about 2 min. The fabric I was using was a very soft Egyptian
> cotton.  The edges are somewhat feathery but uniform.  Using a stiffer
> textile, I got the sharp zigzag one would expect.
>
> Martha Washington's Robe Anglais is looking very spiffy.
> Kathleen
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From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Would this also work on the wool crepe I will be using
for my son's Frobisher outfit?  I doubt he will be
able to afford to dry clean it after every weekend at
the Faire and I really doubt his skill in handwashing.

--- Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:

> Susan Data-Samtak wrote:
> 
> > ScotchGuard the wool?
> > 
> 
> Yup, especially the hems and shoulders. Renew
> anually. Spray OUTSIDE.
> 
> 
> 
> Dawn
> 
> 
> 
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> 


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: protecting wool
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Tayla,

"Camp Dry" might work - it's a spray which I found at Wal-Mart in the 
camping supplies area.  I would test first on a scrap, to make sure 
it doesn't discolor your fabric.  It worked great on a suede bomber 
jacket, however.

Sandy

At 09:00 PM 2/1/2006, you wrote:
>From: "Sablerose" <tayla@sablerose.net>
>Subject: [h-cost] Protecting wool?
>
>I'm hoping the wisdom of the list can come to my rescue here.
>
>I'm putting together a heraldic cloak using a blanket weight winter 
>white wool as the base fabric.  This is a cloak I plan to wear and 
>use, so I'm not expect it to stay good as new.  But I would like to 
>make it even slightly stain resistant if possible?  I don't want to 
>harm the characteristics of the wool, but a little stain prevention 
>would be nice.  Any ideas?
>
>Tayla

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Protecting wool?
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Susan Data-Samtak and Donna wrote:

>> ScotchGuard the wool?
>> 
>
>Yup, especially the hems and shoulders. Renew anually. Spray OUTSIDE.

Is it still made?  A fellow costumer thought it wasn't. 

Tayla



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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?
Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 09:33:44 -0500
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I've seen Scotchguard in the Food Stores in NJ.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 2, 2006, at 1:17 AM, Sablerose wrote:

> Susan Data-Samtak and Donna wrote:
>
>>> ScotchGuard the wool?
>>>
>>
>> Yup, especially the hems and shoulders. Renew anually. Spray OUTSIDE.
>
> Is it still made?  A fellow costumer thought it wasn't.
>
> Tayla
>
>
>
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> 
> 
> Is it still made?  A fellow costumer thought it wasn't. 
> 
> Tayla
> 

Yes, ScotchGuard is still being made. It was taken off the market a few 
years back and reformulated (that was the rumor, anyway) but it is back 
now.


Dawn


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] thanks for your replyes of my embroideries and prices
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On Wednesday 01 February 2006 3:11 pm, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:


> I cant wear the embroidered old suit anymore. The embroidery is compleately
> worned out at the innersides of the cuffs. Its the gold bullion threads,
> that ruined the silk embroidery threads..............

It seems a shame that the embroidery on your old suit is worn out.  On the 
other hand, what a wonderful excuse for you to create new, even more 
wonderful embroidery!

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical 
results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Stain resistant wool
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It seems to me I read years ago that wool was naturally stain resistant, 
perhaps due to the lanolin in it.  Anyway, that was one of the reasons 
it was touted as an ideal travel fabric, it doesn't wrinkle as you wear 
it, is easy to dewrinkle in a steamy shower, it doesn't hold onto 
stains, it is comfortable over a large range of temperatures due to it's 
breathability, and since it absorbs moisture and still keeps you warm, 
it is even good in cold damp weather and not sweaty in hot weather... 
well you get the picture.  anyway, I believe the stain resistance is a 
quality of the wool.   Scotchgard would just impair it's other good 
qualities.   Kitty

On Feb 1, 2006, at 3:05 PM, Sablerose wrote:

 >> I'm hoping the wisdom of the list can come to my rescue here.
 >>
 >> I'm putting together a heraldic cloak using a blanket weight winter
 >> white wool as the base fabric.  This is a cloak I plan to wear and
 >> use, so I'm not expect it to stay good as new.  But I would like to
 >> make it even slightly stain resistant if possible?  I don't want to
 >> harm the characteristics of the wool, but a little stain prevention
 >> would be nice.  Any ideas?
 >>
 >> Tayla

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Why shoulders?
--Sue, more apt to get the upper front of her dirty than anything....

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 8:55 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?


> Susan Data-Samtak wrote:
> 
> > ScotchGuard the wool?
> > 
> 
> Yup, especially the hems and shoulders. Renew anually. Spray OUTSIDE.
> 
> 
> 
> Dawn
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Hey Kristin,
   
  First, take a deep breath,  Then decide what direction you want, or even think you might want to go in.  This will help you make your boning and pattern decisions.  
   
  Just for the pleasure of doing it?  Only wearing it once a year, indoors in air conditioning?  Don't need much support?  Plastic boning is probably OK,  
  Wearing it all day, all weekend at a reenactment?  Working and bending in it doing laundry at a museum site?  A little more bosom to support?  All your friends are hyper authenic?  Different choices.
   
  I saw you are in PA.  Where?  Some of the 18 cent reenactor folks run workshops in that NY/PA/MD area.  Being in NC, I'm too far away to take advantage of them, but they might fit your ticket.  
   
  Your e-friend MIa in Far off Charlotte, NC

		
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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jolt, was Crisps
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--- "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote:

The best (used loosely) beverage equivalents for staying-awake purposes (at
least, here in the U.S.) would be Mountain Dew, and Jolt.  Jolt advertises
itself as having "all the sugar and twice the caffeine" of regular colas.  I
know it kept me awake a time or two (or three...<g>) when I was in college.
Dunno about using it for a hangover cure, though.  I've been known to use a
good, cold Coke Classic or two to help whomp a migraine, though....
--Sue

Ever heard of a drink called a Black Russian? My husband was initially taught to make them with Coca-Cola and vodka. 

He proceeded to concoct something he called a Black Cossack - made with Jolt and Polish Pure Spirit ( 80%Alcohol ). I think it got called a Black Cossack because it kicked like one. ;-P  

I was never game to try one. ( Yes, I'm chicken. ) 

It still pales into insignificance beside the time ( a loooong time ago ) when the boys of the house wanted to have a drink, but all that was left in the house was the tail ends of about 6 bottles of spirits. They decided to mix them all together. This concoction then proceded to settle and separate into about 4 different layers and colours ( it didn't curdle! ) and the glass was warm to the touch from the chemical reaction. :-0

They promptly named it 'A Mad Scientist' and drank it. And didn't die.
( And were never able to duplicate it :-> )

Never tried Coke for a migraine. Hmmm.......

Joannah


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Why shoulders?
--Sue, more apt to get the upper front of her dirty than anything....
----- Original Message ----- 
> > ScotchGuard the wool?
> 
> Yup, especially the hems and shoulders. Renew anually. Spray
OUTSIDE.
> 
> Dawn
==================================
Also top of the hood.  These are the areas that will get the wettest if
you are standing out in the rain :).

Catherine

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Protecting wool?
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At 11:59 AM 2/2/2006, you wrote:
>Why shoulders?
>--Sue, more apt to get the upper front of her dirty than anything....
>----- Original Message -----
> > > ScotchGuard the wool?
> >
> > Yup, especially the hems and shoulders. Renew anually. Spray
>OUTSIDE.
> >
> > Dawn
>==================================
>Also top of the hood.  These are the areas that will get the wettest if
>you are standing out in the rain :).
>
>Catherine

Well, wool actually is warmer and sheds water better after it gets a 
bit damp because the fibers expand and form a better insulator.  All 
I do with my wool outfits is let them dry and then brush them off; 
only if something is really dirty do I bother to wash it.  Full 
cleaning is not needed every time a wool outfit is worn if you wear 
the proper undergarments.  The undergarments, on the other hand, 
should be washed after each wearing (that's why I have two shifts, 
one for each day of a weekend).


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Sablerose wrote:

>  But I would like to make it even slightly stain resistant if possible? 

The other thing I would suggest is to cut the length somewhere below the 
knee, but well above the ankle, perhaps 10" up, somewhere around mid 
calf or higher.  This will keep your white wool off the ground and out 
of reach of most mud and grass, splashed water, and such. Much easier to 
keep clean if it's not in the muck in the first place. :)



Dawn


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Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 13:40:02 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?
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At 01:35 PM 2/2/2006, you wrote:
>Luckily, I'm putting a border of abut 12 inches of black(actually a 
>black and gray plaid) arould the front opening and base of the cloak 
>which will be a little more stain resistant.  But I do plan to cut 
>it above the ankles. For the first time I'm going to photo document 
>the whole process, so I'll let you all know when I get pictures and 
>such up on a website.  I haven't 100% decided yet, but I may hand 
>sew the thing, given the weight of the wool involved.
>
>While I'm at it, does anyone have recommendations for what to line 
>with? I'm trying to decide between linen and light weight polar 
>fleece.  This is blanket weight wool, so it will be plenty warm on 
>its own.  Has anyone lined a winter cloak in linen?  Fur's not 
>really an option for me, so what other historically accurate options do I have?
>
>Tayla
>
>[snip]

The period solution would probably be silk.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?
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Luckily, I'm putting a border of abut 12 inches of black(actually a black 
and gray plaid) arould the front opening and base of the cloak which will be 
a little more stain resistant.  But I do plan to cut it above the ankles. 
For the first time I'm going to photo document the whole process, so I'll 
let you all know when I get pictures and such up on a website.  I haven't 
100% decided yet, but I may hand sew the thing, given the weight of the wool 
involved.

While I'm at it, does anyone have recommendations for what to line with? 
I'm trying to decide between linen and light weight polar fleece.  This is 
blanket weight wool, so it will be plenty warm on its own.  Has anyone lined 
a winter cloak in linen?  Fur's not really an option for me, so what other 
historically accurate options do I have?

Tayla

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?


> Sablerose wrote:
>
>>  But I would like to make it even slightly stain resistant if possible?
>
> The other thing I would suggest is to cut the length somewhere below the 
> knee, but well above the ankle, perhaps 10" up, somewhere around mid calf 
> or higher.  This will keep your white wool off the ground and out of reach 
> of most mud and grass, splashed water, and such. Much easier to keep clean 
> if it's not in the muck in the first place. :)
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?
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Status: RO

Re the polar fleece, it does not breathe and can trap body moisture on the
inside.  I am always too warm when I wear a very nice jacket I made. (And of
course, it isn't exactly period...
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joan Jurancich" <joanmj@surewest.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 4:40 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?


> At 01:35 PM 2/2/2006, you wrote:
> >Luckily, I'm putting a border of abut 12 inches of black(actually a
> >black and gray plaid) arould the front opening and base of the cloak
> >which will be a little more stain resistant.  But I do plan to cut
> >it above the ankles. For the first time I'm going to photo document
> >the whole process, so I'll let you all know when I get pictures and
> >such up on a website.  I haven't 100% decided yet, but I may hand
> >sew the thing, given the weight of the wool involved.
> >
> >While I'm at it, does anyone have recommendations for what to line
> >with? I'm trying to decide between linen and light weight polar
> >fleece.  This is blanket weight wool, so it will be plenty warm on
> >its own.  Has anyone lined a winter cloak in linen?  Fur's not
> >really an option for me, so what other historically accurate options do I
have?
> >
> >Tayla
> >
> >[snip]
>
> The period solution would probably be silk.
>
>
> Joan Jurancich
> joanmj@surewest.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: fashion dolls again.
Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 23:36:46 +0100
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Hi,
Oh yes i am such a fool not thinking about this. There are lots of these 
dolls for sale.
I even found a seller in England that was selling a Mat doll and a female 
doll i could have used and i could have saved the tax fee for importing to 
Europe............
Well two late :-(

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sabine Pothmann" <naergilien@yahoo.de>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 2:03 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: fashion dolls again.


> Hi all,
>
> I might be a bit late on this subject, but...
>
> "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote on Fri, 20 Jan 2006 
> 18:07:54...
>
>>I remember we disgussed this topic way back. I finally found a danish
>>importer of the famous Tonner Dolls. I ordered 3 of these.
>
> Bjarne, it might be less expensive to buy those dolls directly in the US, 
> on Ebay.com, instead of buying them from an importer.
> On Ebay.com you'll find several dealers who also sell nude dolls, which 
> are just perfect for dressing them ;-)
> I've bought several of them this way when I started making doll costumes.
> See some of my doll costumes - mostly Victorian and Elizabethan - here:
> http://www.naergilien.info/dollclothing.htm
> I mostly make Victorian and Elizabethan clothing - not only dolls - but 
> currently I'm about to make a Rococo gown for Tyler,
> with stays and panier, of course :-)
>
>>Emme, American Beauty and Matt O'Neill.
>
> Emme is just perfect, I also have her! She looks like Glenn Close, and 
> with a reroot, she can act as a perfect Queen
> Elizabeth I. :-)
> I have Tyler, Emme, Kitty Collier (18''), Gene, Jadde Lee and Brenda 
> Starr; they're beautiful to work with.
>
> Best wishes,
> Naergi
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___________________________________________________________
> Telefonate ohne weitere Kosten vom PC zum PC: http://messenger.yahoo.de
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?
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Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

> Re the polar fleece, it does not breathe and can trap body moisture on the
> inside.  I am always too warm when I wear a very nice jacket I made. (And of
> course, it isn't exactly period...

And fleece pills with wear. Even if you think it looks nice now, it 
won't after a while.



Dawn



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I'm in the planning stages of what will be my first ever wool garment. Is there anything I need to know about sewing with it? Do any of you guys pre-wash wool? It's a gabardine fabric, which I know isn't terribly period, but it's what I could afford, and I'm making my late-17th-century pirate coat out of it. 
 
Thanks for any advice you can give me. Being from South Texas originally, wool was excluded from my sewing education. :) 
 
Tea Rose
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?
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I lined my winter cloak with heavy 100% cotton flannel, sold as flannel chamois.  It's warm and soft, shows no signs of pilling and came in various solid colors.  Of course, I don't know who sells it now that JoAnne's has discontinued it.

Janet
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I always prewash my wool, especially if it's going to be lined, a jacket 
usually shrinks in length by an inch or two with the type of wool I use. Not 
sure what would happen with gaberdine, but it doesn't take long to pre-wash 
anyway. It also washes out any chemicals used in the processing, so I don't 
get rashes when working with it.

Glenda.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <tearoses@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 10:25 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Wool


> I'm in the planning stages of what will be my first ever wool garment. Is 
> there anything I need to know about sewing with it? Do any of you guys 
> pre-wash wool? It's a gabardine fabric, which I know isn't terribly 
> period, but it's what I could afford, and I'm making my late-17th-century 
> pirate coat out of it.
>
> Thanks for any advice you can give me. Being from South Texas originally, 
> wool was excluded from my sewing education. :)
>
> Tea Rose
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> 


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From: "Betsy Marshall" <betsy@softwareinnovation.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Protecting wool?
Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 17:44:37 -0600
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I would recommend against the (polar)fleece- it is mostly Polyester, and
rubbing against the wool every step you take could generate some "short,
sharp shocks."
Lamb fleece OTOH would be great, but quite heavy!
My .02 lira, Betsy

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sablerose
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 3:35 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?

Luckily, I'm putting a border of abut 12 inches of black(actually a black 
and gray plaid) arould the front opening and base of the cloak which will be

a little more stain resistant.  But I do plan to cut it above the ankles. 
For the first time I'm going to photo document the whole process, so I'll 
let you all know when I get pictures and such up on a website.  I haven't 
100% decided yet, but I may hand sew the thing, given the weight of the wool

involved.

While I'm at it, does anyone have recommendations for what to line with? 
I'm trying to decide between linen and light weight polar fleece.  This is 
blanket weight wool, so it will be plenty warm on its own.  Has anyone lined

a winter cloak in linen?  Fur's not really an option for me, so what other 
historically accurate options do I have?

Tayla

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?


> Sablerose wrote:
>
>>  But I would like to make it even slightly stain resistant if possible?
>
> The other thing I would suggest is to cut the length somewhere below the 
> knee, but well above the ankle, perhaps 10" up, somewhere around mid calf 
> or higher.  This will keep your white wool off the ground and out of reach

> of most mud and grass, splashed water, and such. Much easier to keep clean

> if it's not in the muck in the first place. :)
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wool
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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> I'm in the planning stages of what will be my first ever wool garment. Is
> there anything I need to know about sewing with it? Do any of you guys
> pre-wash wool?

I always pre-wash my wool.  As someone said, it washes out any chemicals
used in processing and it leaves you the *option* of washing it again.

Honestly, I have never had to wash an entire garment that I have made in
my 15-odd years of sewing historical costumes.  Spot cleaning works fine
or putting my hem in the bathtub ;~>

> It's a gabardine fabric, which I know isn't terribly
> period, but it's what I could afford, and I'm making my late-17th-century
> pirate coat out of it.

Also, washing a wool gabardine will shrink it and thicken it up a bit so
it will be less modern-looking.  Every little bit helps!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
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Are you going to throw the jacket in the wash once it's made? That's usually 
my idea when working with any fabric.  If I want to wash the garment in a 
machine once it's made, I wash the material in Hot water and dry in the 
dryer (unless I'm fulling cloth for an 18thC coat, then I full properly, not 
in the dryer).

Wool is wonderful to work with, take a small piece of it and play with it 
before you sew your garment. It will streatch and shrink under steam and 
heat, it will go whereever you tell it to.  Play with it first, then you'll 
get the feel of it!

Kelly
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <tearoses@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 7:25 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Wool


> I'm in the planning stages of what will be my first ever wool garment. Is 
> there anything I need to know about sewing with it? Do any of you guys 
> pre-wash wool? It's a gabardine fabric, which I know isn't terribly 
> period, but it's what I could afford, and I'm making my late-17th-century 
> pirate coat out of it.
>
> Thanks for any advice you can give me. Being from South Texas originally, 
> wool was excluded from my sewing education. :)
>
> Tea Rose
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Stain resistant wool
Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 21:46:42 -0500
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> It seems to me I read years ago that wool was naturally stain resistant, 
> perhaps due to the lanolin in it.

Yes, and also waterproof for the same reason. The wool we get now, though, 
has been treated chemically, so it's not quite as good. Still worth it 
though. 

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Subject: [h-cost] Sees
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----  <h-costume@indra.com> wrote:
> ObCostume: So, for those familiar with See's -- what era is the 
> inspiration/origin of their uniforms? (See 
> <http://www.sees.com/about.cfm> for an example.) It strikes me as 
> somehow earlier rather than later 20th century, but the 20th century 
> isn't exactly my area of costuming interest...

I'd say early tacky or late dowdy ;-)  Seriously though, I've seen some hideous work uniforms but I think Sees is a real leader here.  Fortunately their candy is wonderful and they're not selling their uniforms...those poor ladies...

Julie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sees
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I've seen worse, Darrell Lea in Australia used to have their shop assistants 
in a large shapeless shift with a huge floppy bow about the same place as 
this uniform. Shocking! Unfortunately, I can't find a photo of these on the 
net. Anyone else in OZ have any pics?

Glenda.

, but the 20th century
>> isn't exactly my area of costuming interest...
>
> I'd say early tacky or late dowdy ;-)  Seriously though, I've seen some 
> hideous work uniforms but I think Sees is a real leader here.  Fortunately 
> their candy is wonderful and they're not selling their uniforms...those 
> poor ladies...
>
> Julie
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> 


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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] 16th Century Effigies
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Passing this alone from another list...

Good news! A brand new research resource for c16th dress arrives on line - a
pilot database of images is available at:

http://www.jmdsrv1.dyndns.org/tudoreffigies

This is the first stage of a project to photograph and make available
photographs of Tudor effigies in UK churches. The pilot database contains 44
effigies with photographs of items and features of dress. This represents
about two per cent of the material that could be compiled from similar
sources.

Eventually, each effigy and its details will have a description with
appropriate c16th terms and an explanation of how they were worn.

The database has been compiled by Dr Jane Malcolm-Davies at Winchester
School of Art. Feedback on the usefulness of the images and suggestions for
improvement will help with an application for continued funding for the
project.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
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Subject: [h-cost] linning of cape
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sablerose" <tayla@sablerose.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 10:35 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?


Hi, i didnt follow the thread, sorry.
Wich period is your cloak?
18th century cloaks are not lined. The one i made is angle lenght, cut after 
a williamsburg cloak and has 2 collars on.
I close mine with tin hooks and eyes, 3 in all.
Its not lined, and originals wasnt either.

Bjarne


> While I'm at it, does anyone have recommendations for what to line with? 
> I'm trying to decide between linen and light weight polar fleece.  This is 
> blanket weight wool, so it will be plenty warm on its own.  Has anyone 
> lined a winter cloak in linen?  Fur's not really an option for me, so what 
> other historically accurate options do I have?
>
> Tayla
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 1:02 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?
>
>
>> Sablerose wrote:
>>
>>>  But I would like to make it even slightly stain resistant if possible?
>>
>> The other thing I would suggest is to cut the length somewhere below the 
>> knee, but well above the ankle, perhaps 10" up, somewhere around mid calf 
>> or higher.  This will keep your white wool off the ground and out of 
>> reach of most mud and grass, splashed water, and such. Much easier to 
>> keep clean if it's not in the muck in the first place. :)
>>
>>
>>
>> Dawn
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wool
Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 11:17:42 +0100
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Hi,
Wool is very nice to work with. It presses and irons well and the only thing 
you should be conserned about is when you steam press seams. Be sure to use 
a cloth on top, some times it makes shiny marks on the surface.
My cloak is made of wool flannel, and it is also very light, but if drapes 
so well.
Good luck!

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <tearoses@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 12:25 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Wool


> I'm in the planning stages of what will be my first ever wool garment. Is 
> there anything I need to know about sewing with it? Do any of you guys 
> pre-wash wool? It's a gabardine fabric, which I know isn't terribly 
> period, but it's what I could afford, and I'm making my late-17th-century 
> pirate coat out of it.
>
> Thanks for any advice you can give me. Being from South Texas originally, 
> wool was excluded from my sewing education. :)
>
> Tea Rose
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Fri, 03 Feb 2006 06:29:43 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wool
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

First, gabardine probably is period for 17th century -- it's just a
hard-finished lightweight twill.

I almost always pre-wash my wools but you do lose some to shrinkage -- it
varies widely depending on the wool, but figure 10% to 15% just to be safe.
If I'm not sure how the wool will respond to a prewash, I measure off an
8-inch square and test-launder that.

I like the feel of wool once it's been washed -- it's softer and less
chemical-feeling. 

IF you have enough extra to allow for shrinkage, you'll get a slightly more
period finish if you wash your wool in the machine on cold with a gentle
soap (I use Dr. Bronner's liquid soap for this) and allow it to dry flat or
hung on a line. Just takes some of the "modern" off it.

This pre-washing also might allow you to cold-wash the finished garment
occasionally, but in the case of a pirate coat, which probably has lots of
construction details, you'll probably want to dry clean (or just let it get
piratically dirty!) anyway.

I am actually writing this in my just-completed 11th-century overgown, which
I made from an 80% wool/20% cashmere coating that I washed on warm and hung
to dry before I cut it out. Normally I'd have run it through the dryer once,
too, but this was already so heavy and warm that I didn't want it to get any
thicker. 

My under-gown is a plainweave tropical worsted wool which I did machine wash
and dry. Because it was a pretty fine worsted, it didn't full the way a
flannel will, but it is softer and a little more dense, post-wash.

One of the great things about working with wool is that it has a bit of
natural stretch to it.

Have fun with your pirate coat!
-- 
Lauren M. Walker
-- 
"One does not need buildings, money, power, or status to practice the Art of
Peace. Heaven is right where you are standing, and that is the place to
train." -- Morihei Ueshiba


>> I'm in the planning stages of what will be my first ever wool garment. Is
>> there anything I need to know about sewing with it? Do any of you guys
>> pre-wash wool? It's a gabardine fabric, which I know isn't terribly
>> period, but it's what I could afford, and I'm making my late-17th-century
>> pirate coat out of it.
>> 
>> Thanks for any advice you can give me. Being from South Texas originally,
>> wool was excluded from my sewing education. :)
>> 
>> Tea Rose
>> _______________________________________________
>>

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From: "Lori Alston" <asl@iw.net>
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Subject: Fw: [h-cost] Sees
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http://www.wweek.com/html/lifefeature112499.html

Second one down in black and white you can see the big bow...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6031569409&category=15953
Barbire in a uniform this one fits better on Barbie then they do in real 
life behind the counter


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Glenda Robinson" <glendarob@exemail.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 12:02 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sees


> I've seen worse, Darrell Lea in Australia used to have their shop 
> assistants in a large shapeless shift with a huge floppy bow about the 
> same place as this uniform. Shocking! Unfortunately, I can't find a photo 
> of these on the net. Anyone else in OZ have any pics?
>
> Glenda.
>
> , but the 20th century
>>> isn't exactly my area of costuming interest...
>>
>> I'd say early tacky or late dowdy ;-)  Seriously though, I've seen some 
>> hideous work uniforms but I think Sees is a real leader here. 
>> Fortunately their candy is wonderful and they're not selling their 
>> uniforms...those poor ladies...
>>
>> Julie
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>>
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?
Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 21:51:27 -0500
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Try Fabric.com or DenverFabric.com

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 2, 2006, at 6:26 PM, JAMES OGILVIE wrote:

> I lined my winter cloak with heavy 100% cotton flannel, sold as 
> flannel chamois.  It's warm and soft, shows no signs of pilling and 
> came in various solid colors.  Of course, I don't know who sells it 
> now that JoAnne's has discontinued it.
>
> Janet
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: extant inventories
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Speaking of extant inventories, can anyone point me to one that is 
published from 16th-century France?  I'm looking for one that details 
women's garments rather than men's, and pretty much any range of years 
is fine.  I should be able to get Inventaires de la Royne Descosse (Mary 
Queen of Scots' inventories for 1556-69), but does anyone know of others?

Many thanks,
Melanie Schuessler

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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] my first glove! 
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I used Vogue 7949 on some embroidered suede fabric. It's a little narrow 
on my hand, but not unwearable for costume purposes. (There's no method 
of sizing the pattern included despite the S-M-L claim) Overall I'm 
fairly pleased with the outcome:


www.reddawn.net/costume/art/pirate/glove.jpg




Dawn

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Laura de Pola's funky partlet
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This is a response to a discussion from January 5th thru 8th about Laura de
Pola¹s partlet (Portrait of Laura de Pola, by Lorenzo Lotto, housed in
Milan). 

When my copy of Moda a Firenze showed up in the mail this week, it confirms
that the partlet is goldwork. It says that ³The roses on the partlet have a
very marked three-dimensional aspect, produced by the use of gold purles.²
Purle being the high-relief gold threads that were used in goldwork. It also
talks about Eleonora of Toledo ordering samples of the gold mesh that was
used in manufacturing such partlets.

Since so many theories were postulated, I thought you might want to know
what it actually is.

The file I have of her portrait is very washed out on the yellows, as many
are. If you adjust the color to bring her belt and fan hande/chain to a
proper ³gold² color, you¹ll find the partlet and cap change to gold as well.

Kat
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wool
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Diana Habra wrote:
> Also, washing a wool gabardine will shrink it and thicken it up a bit so
> it will be less modern-looking.  Every little bit helps!

If it is a very fine, tightly spun gabardine, washing will not change it 
very much. But it will still remove leftover chemicals.

liz young

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Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 10:37:33 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] my first glove!
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
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That is just fabulous!!! I really like this pattern. It is a copy of
one of their 1947 sets that they published way back when. The thumb
is the give away. Isn't that just the funkiest thumb you have ever
seen?

I love that suede.

What Vogue means by S-M-L is that that our hand from finger tip to
base of palm is either 6-7-8 inches in length OR it is 6-7-8 inches
around at the fattest part of our hand. I am betting it is the
fingertip measure.

But having seen your work through the years I know you are more than
talented enough to enlarge the pattern to suit your needs.

Congrats on making that glove, I love it! :)

Chiara
glovemaker

On Fri, February 3, 2006 9:29 am, Dawn said:
> I used Vogue 7949 on some embroidered suede fabric. It's a little
> narrow
> on my hand, but not unwearable for costume purposes. (There's no
> method
> of sizing the pattern included despite the S-M-L claim) Overall I'm
> fairly pleased with the outcome:
>
>
> www.reddawn.net/costume/art/pirate/glove.jpg
>
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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Franchesca Havas
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Wool
Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 11:04:14 -0600
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The problem with washing wool is that water and detergent both weaken
the fibers. The effect is worsened if you add agitation to the water and
detergent. Also, washing will remove whatever lanolin is left in the
fabric.

That is why it's best to spot clean woollen garments, or dry clean them.

That said, I have washed wool. I use cool water and a special cleaner,
like Ensure or Orvus. And I don't do it often, if I want the garment to
last.

Fabric made of worsted wool (such as gabardine) will not felt. Worsted
wool is only the longest, strongest, smoothest fibers from the fleece.

Kim

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From: purplkat@optonline.net
Subject: Re: RE: [h-cost] Wool
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uummm... as a spinner I have a question about a few of your statements......

my replies are marked with **

----- Original Message -----
From: kim baird <kbaird@cableone.net>
> 
> The problem with washing wool is that water and detergent both weaken
> the fibers. 

**  This is partly true - SOME soaps are slightly harsh. But saying that - I have some wool items that my Grandmother owned and she didn't use specialty soap, nor hand washed in cold. She used her washer and warm water. They are just as sturdy as when she used them.

> The effect is worsened if you add agitation to the water and detergent. 

** The combination of hot water AND agitation causes felting to a degree .... I agitate my wool items in warm water and they don't shrink - (OK they first shrunk 2% but didn't after the first time).

> Also, washing will remove whatever lanolin is left in the fabric.

** Usually lanolin isn't in fabric - by the time it gets to the fabric mills most of the lanolin is removed by chemical process. To the Manucturing Industry lanolin is -by far- worth more than plain ol' wool. Besides chemicals are used to strip the lanolin - so you would have to worry more about formaldehyde and other chemicals than lanolin.

> Fabric made of worsted wool (such as gabardine) will not felt. Worsted
> wool is only the longest, strongest, smoothest fibers from the fleece.

** Worsted is a term for the way the wool is spun/ processed  - not the fibers themselves. You can spin any part of the fleece worsted.

Katheryne
Spinner for 12 years
who is more than willing to be corrected on her fabric info
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From: Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Laura de Pola's funky partlet
Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 09:12:12 -0800
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Where does one obtain a copy of this?  I looked on amazon, but it's  
not there.
many thanks!

On Feb 3, 2006, at 7:29 AM, celtkin wrote:

> Moda a Firenze

Althea Turner
althea@alfalfapress.com

"Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have  
company in their ignorance, they don't want people to look into  
anything; they want us to believe like peasants and not ask the  
reasons behind things."
William of Conches, 12th century


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Subject: [h-cost] The scoop on wool
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I quote below from a paper I wrote in grad school (2005):

Woollens versus Worsteds
Since early times, two methods have been used to make cloth from wool.
The process and the product are referred to as woollen or worsted.(61)
Sheep's wool varies widely in length and diameter, even on the same
animal, and certainly between breeds. Fibers are sorted before
processing.
Worsted yarns are made by separating out the shorter fibers (one to
three inches) before spinning the longer ones (two and a half to nine
inches) into a tightly spun, smooth and strong yarn.(62)  Fabrics made
of worsted yarns, such as gabardine and serge, have a smooth, hard
surface. Worsteds are typically used for apparel. The term, as so many
fabric names, comes from a town where this style of fabric was made.
Worstead is a small town in Norfolk, England, once famous for its wool
fabric produced from longer-staple yarns.(63)
Woollen yarns are spun from the shorter fibers, which also tend to be
finer and softer. Woollen fabrics range from soft and light to heavy and
rough.(64)  Besides the length of the fiber, the main difference between
a woollen and a worsted is the finishing required. Woollen fabrics are
fulled, napped and sheared after weaving.(65)  Woollens are utilized in
warmer fabrics for blankets and outerwear.
Generally, worsted is easier to manufacture. The wool need not be
scoured before spinning, nor does it require fulling after the cloth is
woven. It was probably the earlier of the two systems, as most of the
surviving early wools are of the worsted type. 

 61- W. J. Onions, Wool: An Introduction to its Properties, Varieties,
Uses and Production (London: Ernest Benn Limited, 1962),  5.

 62 - Ibid., 1.

  63 - John H. Munro, "Medieval Woollens: Textiles, Textile Technology
and Industrial Organisation, c. 800-1500," in The Cambridge History of
Western Textiles, vol. 1, David Jenkins, ed. (Cambridge: Cambridge
University Press, 2003),183.

  64 -Onions, 6.

  65 - Munro, 183.


Kim

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: wool woolen/worsted...
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Status: RO

Um I was 'learned' that you can comb anything that has a fiber length 
longer than the depth of the comb (see combed cotton for *short*) to 
make combed rovings.
How you spin it then makes it worsted--drafting the fibers parallel 
to each other before the twist enters the drafting zone.
Longer fibers make better worsted---BUT---unless it's hand combed and 
spun, you are getting the same shorter fibers that go in woolen 
yarns. The commercial mills first process wool into carded batts 
before they feed the fiber into the combing machine. Because of 
several techie requirements, very long fibers are 'bad' and can get 
chopped down to a uniform length or rejected entirely...Once 
processed into combed top it is then spun worsted. Don't believe 
me--unspin some yarn and check the fiber length. It broke my heart 
when I found out how short the fibers are in modern linen cloth :-(

You can produce semi worsted where you spin one way and process the 
fiber the other.

Oh and true worsted has all the fibers laid butt to tip so the scales 
flow in the same direction--not something you can get in a mill 
situation.

Costume content--Up until just after WWII you could still get hand 
combed worsted suiting in England. It was held that the hand 
processing made for a better cloth and thus better suits. Then the 
old geezers died off and the youngsters were not interested in 
following the trade--a hard dirty one!

Ta
Carol--happily combing a trash fleece to remove the short 
bits/trash/second cuts. What's left spins like butter.
And who dreams of a Noble machine--all gears and belts and dangerous 
bits the size of a Volkswagon!
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 20:27:21 +0100
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Subject: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
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Hi,
I am trying to make myself a new suit, and today i drafted the pattern of
the english coat in Costume Close Up.
It really is difficult to adapt an old pattern to a modern size.
The armholes are much much two small and the shoulderseam sits very badly on
me. I have to redy the cut.
This i always have to do and i wondered if others of you have the same
problems?
The gustavian suit i made last year, didnt have to be ajusted very much in
comparison, but it is very painfull to wear it long times, because it pushes
my shoulders so much backwards.
I dont understand how men had space for their arms in these suits.
Upperclass people must have ben very skinny men without much mucle if any
att all. Strange when i look at portraits, there seems to be no wrinkles in
the armskyes, and there must have ben plenty of room for them.
This is very odd...........

Bjarne who wished i could for just one time make my pattern accurate at this
point, but no...............







Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: celtkin <celtkin@comcast.net>
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Status: RO


I bought _Moda a Firenze_ from Lacis, but it is also available via alibris
or abebooks.com (don't remember which). And if you Google for it, you can
probably find the best price that way. I recall finding it for less shortly
after I placed my order with Lacis. It also costs slightly less if you're
willing to have it shipped from Italy, but that can take a month or more
based on some recent experiences with books coming from Europe (they haven't
arrived yet!). 

Moda was published just last year and is in the same vein as Queen
Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd, centered around Eleonor of Toledo and her
wardrobe accounts, Florence 1540-1580. There is not quite as much text as
QEWU, but the book is full-color on heavy, velvety coated paper -- a truly
beautiful book, worth every penny. The essays are in Italian and English.
There were many paintings I had not seen before, along with interesting
discussions of each element of the typical Florentine wardrobe during
Eleonor's time (petticoat, gown, partlet, smock, hairstyles, etc.), some
discussion about tailors and embroiders, extant garments, a printing of
Eleanor's wardrobe inventories (in Italian only) and a great little glossary
of Italian wardrobe and textile terms.

Now if someone would publish a book like this about German fashion, I would
be in heaven! 

Gysela

> Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 09:12:12 -0800
> From: Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Laura de Pola's funky partlet
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> 
> Where does one obtain a copy of this?  I looked on amazon, but it's
> not there.
> many thanks!
> 
> On Feb 3, 2006, at 7:29 AM, celtkin wrote:
> 
>> Moda a Firenze


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I bought my copy of _Moda a Firenze_ from Lacis (http://www.lacis.com/) in Berkeley CA, but I have heard they ran out... you could call and see if they got more in, as my info is a month old. 

Yesterday I noticed that Hedgehog Handworks (http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/BKCT6001.shtml) is selling it on line. (I've never ordered from them on-line, so I don't know how reliable they are).

You can also order directly from the Museum, but they want payment in Italian currency (and no credit cards) which I found problematic.
	-sunny




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Subject: [h-cost] Re: my first glove!
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Having seen Dawn's glove in person, I can attest that it's every bit as droolworthy as it looks in the picture. However, regarding the sizing of the pattern, I thought I'd point out that Dawn's hands are long and narrow, while mine are short and wide, and when I tried on the glove it was obviously sized for someone of her hand shape and not mine. It was much too narrow across the knuckles and the fingers were way too long for me -- a problem I often have with commercial gloves.  
 
That won't stop me from putting a pair of gloves on my list of things to make after my pirate costume, though! Those are too cool to resist.
 
Tea Rose
 
-----------------------------

Message: 13
Date: Fri, 03 Feb 2006 09:29:35 -0600
From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
Subject: [h-cost] my first glove! 
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <43E376DF.5030509@reddawn.net>
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I used Vogue 7949 on some embroidered suede fabric. It's a little narrow 
on my hand, but not unwearable for costume purposes. (There's no method 
of sizing the pattern included despite the S-M-L claim) Overall I'm 
fairly pleased with the outcome:


www.reddawn.net/costume/art/pirate/glove.jpg




Dawn
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Date: Fri, 03 Feb 2006 19:06:23 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: extant inventories/Mary Queen of Scots
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At 15:39 03/02/2006, you wrote:
>Speaking of extant inventories, can anyone point me to one that is 
>published from 16th-century France?  I'm looking for one that 
>details women's garments rather than men's, and pretty much any 
>range of years is fine.  I should be able to get Inventaires de la 
>Royne Descosse (Mary Queen of Scots' inventories for 1556-69), but 
>does anyone know of others?
>
>Many thanks,
>Melanie Schuessler


Melanie

Are you able to pass on more info about the Mary Queen of Scots' 
inventories? I've just completed 4 dresses for Danse Ecosse, who 
dance "at the Court of Mary" and I would love to pass on information to them.

Suzi


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From: Catrijn vanden Westhende <catrijn@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The scoop on wool
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Status: RO

To a certain extent yes, but this is rather oversimplified.  Fibers
can be sorted by staple length before spinning, but they aren't
always.  Woolens are not necessarily spun from just the shorter fibers
- mixed fibers can also be used.  The preparation of the fibers before
spinning - whether they are forced to lie parallel or not - has a very
large effect on whether the resultant product is classified as woolen
or worsted (which I see as more of a spectrum than a black and white
classification), regardless of staple length.  While fulling, napping,
and shearing is one finishing process for a woolen cloth, there are
other options - cloth might be simply fulled; fulled and napped but
not sheared; etc.  Worsteds can also be fulled, although of coarse to
a much lesser extent.  The degree of 'worsted-ness' limits the amount
of fulling that is possible.

Wool is really a quite sturdy fiber.  Water and detergent won't hurt
it much, as long as there's absolutely no bleach.  Of course any
garment will last longer if can avoid repeated washings, but wool's
not any worse about this than most fabrics (and better than some).

- Catrijn

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From: Caroline <carolineebuckley@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Harris Tweed
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Status: RO

I have been very fortunate and have come into the posession of just over 3
yards of Harris Tweed. It's only 28" wide so it's a bit small for a tunic
for my other half.

I could make a medieval tunic with different material in the sleeves? Any
thoughts as to how that might look - are we in a 'spoiling the ship for a
ha'porth of tar' situation.

Can anyone think of something that could be made with it? I suppose if all
else fails I could sell it

--
Caroline
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Status: RO

Harris tweed is amazing stuff- if it's the real thing it is handwoven in the Isle of Harris off the Scottish coast which is why it's so narrow. That's the typical width for a single person handloom. If I were you, I'd consider making him a period hood with perhaps a matching belt pouch ( really nice one, not just a drawstring thingie). Harris tweed is just too nice not to use.
 
Karen
Seamstrix
 


-- Caroline <carolineebuckley@gmail.com> wrote:
I have been very fortunate and have come into the posession of just over 3
yards of Harris Tweed. It's only 28" wide so it's a bit small for a tunic
for my other half.

I could make a medieval tunic with different material in the sleeves? Any
thoughts as to how that might look - are we in a 'spoiling the ship for a
ha'porth of tar' situation.

Can anyone think of something that could be made with it? I suppose if all
else fails I could sell it

--
Caroline
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <000e01c628f7$dcff7480$7c83fea9@CPQ21932199711>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
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Status: RO

Bjarne

I find this exact problem often when I utilize 1920's patterns for women. 
The armscye always much too small.  It seems to be also the case when I've 
purchased original garments from the period, I am built very slight and the 
armholes are very tight on me.  It was also a problem in a few patterns I 
used from the 50s as well, but not most of them.

I think people may have been smaller, and less well fed, and so yes, less 
well developed.  I think we may have even discussed the phenomenon here on 
the list at times.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
Theatrical Costume Design
"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
All's Well That Ends Well 1.1.65-6, Countess to Bertram
W. Shakespeare

http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 11:27 AM
Subject: [h-cost] williamsburg suit


>
> Hi,
> I am trying to make myself a new suit, and today i drafted the pattern of
> the english coat in Costume Close Up.
> It really is difficult to adapt an old pattern to a modern size.
> The armholes are much much two small and the shoulderseam sits very badly 
> on
> me. I have to redy the cut.
> This i always have to do and i wondered if others of you have the same
> problems?
> The gustavian suit i made last year, didnt have to be ajusted very much in
> comparison, but it is very painfull to wear it long times, because it 
> pushes
> my shoulders so much backwards.
> I dont understand how men had space for their arms in these suits.
> Upperclass people must have ben very skinny men without much mucle if any
> att all. Strange when i look at portraits, there seems to be no wrinkles 
> in
> the armskyes, and there must have ben plenty of room for them.
> This is very odd...........
>
> Bjarne who wished i could for just one time make my pattern accurate at 
> this
> point, but no...............
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Suzi Clarke wrote:
> 
> Are you able to pass on more info about the Mary Queen of Scots' 
> inventories? I've just completed 4 dresses for Danse Ecosse, who dance 
> "at the Court of Mary" and I would love to pass on information to them.

It's referenced in the back of The Needlework of Mary Queen of Scots by 
  Margaret Swain.

Robertson, J.  Inventaires de la Royne Descosse douairiere de France: 
catalogues of the jewels, dresses, furniture, books, and paintings of 
Mary Queen of Scots : 1556-1569.  Edinburgh:  Bannatyne Club, 1863.

I'm trying to ILL it, but it's fairly rare.

Good luck,
Melanie Schuessler

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Status: RO

I've had the shoulder issue with enlarging patterns from period garments.
I believe that in the 18th century (particularly for the upper classes)
they were trained from childhood that proper posture involved holding the
shoulders back and down giving the body a wider front and narrower back.
In modern America (I don't know about Denmark) a more 'slouchy' posture
is the norm with the shoulders rounded towards the front which is exactly
opposite from the 18th century posture. Aside from re-training ones body
to the period posture, I don't know what can be done except adjusting the
patterns somewhat to accomodate modern posture.....but I don't think it
should be done too much because the broad-chested/narrow-backed look is
part of what makes the fashions work and look right. 


Karen
Seamstrix



On Fri, 3 Feb 2006 20:27:21 +0100 "Bjarne og Leif Drews"
<drewscph@post12.tele.dk> writes:
> 
> Hi,
> I am trying to make myself a new suit, and today i drafted the 
> pattern of
> the english coat in Costume Close Up.
> It really is difficult to adapt an old pattern to a modern size.
> The armholes are much much two small and the shoulderseam sits very 
> badly on
> me. I have to redy the cut.
> This i always have to do and i wondered if others of you have the 
> same
> problems?
> The gustavian suit i made last year, didnt have to be ajusted very 
> much in
> comparison, but it is very painfull to wear it long times, because 
> it pushes
> my shoulders so much backwards.
> I dont understand how men had space for their arms in these suits.
> Upperclass people must have ben very skinny men without much mucle 
> if any
> att all. Strange when i look at portraits, there seems to be no 
> wrinkles in
> the armskyes, and there must have ben plenty of room for them.
> This is very odd...........
> 
> Bjarne who wished i could for just one time make my pattern accurate 
> at this
> point, but no...............
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
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Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> 
> I dont understand how men had space for their arms in these suits.
> Upperclass people must have ben very skinny men without much mucle if any
> att all.

_An Elegant Art:  Fashion and Fantasy in the 18th Century_ includes the 
catalog for an exhibit at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art and also 
several very interesting articles.  In one, on movement, the author 
talks about proper stance and movement for the upper-class in the 18th 
century:

"For carriage to be considered elegant, the shoulders and arms had to 
look relaxed, the upper arms curving gently away from the torso, not 
dropping straight down at the sides like servants or rustics."  and

"Because the armholes of bodices, vests, and coats were cut very high 
under the arm, it was physically far more comfortable to hold the upper 
arms slightly away from the torso; to drop the arms straight down at the 
sides made the armholes bind.  With his coat buttoned, a man could raise 
his arms up over his head and his coat would not ride up." (p. 45)

Just another thought.

Melanie Schuessler

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Harris Tweed
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Caroline wrote:

> I have been very fortunate and have come into the posession of just over 3
> yards of Harris Tweed. It's only 28" wide so it's a bit small for a tunic
> for my other half.
> 
> I could make a medieval tunic with different material in the sleeves? Any
> thoughts as to how that might look - are we in a 'spoiling the ship for a
> ha'porth of tar' situation.

If you have another piece of contrasting fabric you certainly can make a 
tunic with different sleeves. I've done it with less than 3 yards, so 
I'm sure you can do it with 28" width.

I used to cut the sleeves short, and make up the length by putting a 
wide band of contrast in the middle of the sleeve, and along the bottom 
hem, and once I even used the contrast as a sort of yoke.... let me see 
where that picture went...

www.reddawn.net/costume/bluetunc.jpg

That was the most delicious blue wool, but I only had a little over 2 
yards, in pieces that weren't even square, so I pieced it most 
creatively. What you can't see is the 6" dark blue border on the hem.

Sometimes though, if I'm not sure what to make, I just hem the ends and 
use it for a wrap. 3 yards is a nice length to wrap around yourself on a 
chilly morning.


Dawn


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: extant inventories/Mary Queen of Scots
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At 23:41 03/02/2006, you wrote:
>Suzi Clarke wrote:
>>Are you able to pass on more info about the Mary Queen of Scots' 
>>inventories? I've just completed 4 dresses for Danse Ecosse, who 
>>dance "at the Court of Mary" and I would love to pass on information to them.
>
>It's referenced in the back of The Needlework of Mary Queen of Scots 
>by  Margaret Swain.
>
>Robertson, J.  Inventaires de la Royne Descosse douairiere de 
>France: catalogues of the jewels, dresses, furniture, books, and 
>paintings of Mary Queen of Scots : 1556-1569.  Edinburgh:  Bannatyne 
>Club, 1863.
>
>I'm trying to ILL it, but it's fairly rare.


Thanks Melanie - I've forwarded this to my client, who lives in 
Inverness, so may be able to access it in a Scottish library.

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Harris Tweed
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Harris tweed is gorgeous stuff (was lucky enough (well boyfriend was anyway) 
to pick up a couple of rolls of it at Leeds market ages ago for next to 
nothing - dead stock from a tailoring supplier - smug grin!!!!)

The real stuff can actually be made on a few of the islands surrounding 
Harris in the Outer Hebrides now (Harris, Lewis, Uist and Barra) - though it 
originated on Harris itself, of course.  

It's protected by Act of Parliament to call it Harris tweed if not "of pure 
virgin wool, spun, dyed and handwoven by islanders in their homes in the Outer 
Hebrides, (all about protecting the livelihood of the crofters weaving it).  
Was a fscinating program when on BBC2 when Nike used H tweed on a trainer.

Would also suggest accessories, or small stuff - making sleeves out of 
something else might well just look odd (though it depends on what it actually is) - 
plus finding something with the same properties might be a task!

Debs



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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Mary Queen of Scots
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The British Library has it - you may be able to order copies of the pages 
here:

http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/ENR7GYAJ1T2JAMUDK25VFG5Y6HJ4XG59HTM9K729C91UJQ4E9A-03231?func=full-set-set&set_number=102549&set_entry=000001&format=999

Kate

>Message: 11
>Date: Fri, 03 Feb 2006 17:41:37 -0600
>From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: extant inventories/Mary Queen of Scots
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Message-ID: <43E3EA31.8000904@faucet.net>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
>
>Suzi Clarke wrote:
> >
> > Are you able to pass on more info about the Mary Queen of Scots'
> > inventories? I've just completed 4 dresses for Danse Ecosse, who dance
> > "at the Court of Mary" and I would love to pass on information to them.
>
>It's referenced in the back of The Needlework of Mary Queen of Scots by
>   Margaret Swain.
>
>Robertson, J.  Inventaires de la Royne Descosse douairiere de France:
>catalogues of the jewels, dresses, furniture, books, and paintings of
>Mary Queen of Scots : 1556-1569.  Edinburgh:  Bannatyne Club, 1863.
>
>I'm trying to ILL it, but it's fairly rare.
>
>Good luck,
>Melanie Schuessler
>
>
>
>------------------------------


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Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 15:55:22 -0800
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: re: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
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Subject: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
>I am trying to make myself a new suit, and today i drafted the pattern of
>the english coat in Costume Close Up.
>The armholes are much much two small and the shoulderseam sits very badly on
>me. I have to redy the cut.
>This i always have to do and i wondered if others of you have the same
>problems?

Yes, of course.  I did Coat, Vest and Breeches from suit #17.  You
might want to troll thru the h-cost discussion from oh say winter 2004
to spring 2005 and pickup all the comments, and answers to my
questions re this suit.

>I dont understand how men had space for their arms in these suits.
>Upperclass people must have ben very skinny men without much mucle if any

The coat's CF opening is about 4" wide. The buttons & buttonholes have
no useful purpose on Coat #17.  This 4" spread may explain why you
think the original owner of this suit is a skinny dude.
The vest buttons closed, tho many extant vests have only the top
buttonhole actually open & useable.  The rest are sewn but never cut.
If you have the Baumgartner book from Williamsburg, the Norah Waugh
Cut of Men's Clothes and Blanche Payne's layout for the 18th c suit,
you'll get a broad spectrum of cut & fitting ideas.

>att all. Strange when i look at portraits, there seems to be no wrinkles in
>the armskyes, and there must have ben plenty of room for them.
>This is very odd...........

Did you make a mockup that included your interfacing and other
interior construction?  Without the interfacing thru the front
pectorial region, over the shoulder and across the upper back, yes it
will wrinkle.  Anything would.  Bodies arent smooth. Only those
corseted, pannier-wearing ladies you dress so marvelously are smooth
thru the body.

Norah Waugh shows the interfacing layout in her diagrams.  If you have
an 18th c suit at hand (perhaps in a friendly museum) or even a 19th
tailcoat, you can feel the changes in interfacing at placket,
shoulders, pectorals, skirts, cuffs, etc. Even a modern *bespoke* suit
will inform.

I'm happy to try to help further, but I've only done the one 18th c
man's garment.  I can however, do some pretty good tailoring.

>Bjarne who wished i could for just one time make my pattern accurate at this
>point, but no...

I think you'll do just fine.  Wish I could see it in progress,
--cin

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PS - didn't realise it was you!!!  Really should read the e-mail addresses 
occasionally.

Debs
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Mary Queen of Scots
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At 23:50 03/02/2006, you wrote:
>The British Library has it - you may be able to order copies of the 
>pages here:
>
>http://catalogue.bl.uk/F/ENR7GYAJ1T2JAMUDK25VFG5Y6HJ4XG59HTM9K729C91UJQ4E9A-03231?func=full-set-set&set_number=102549&set_entry=000001&format=999
>
>Kate
>
>> > Are you able to pass on more info about the Mary Queen of Scots'
>> > inventories? I've just completed 4 dresses for Danse Ecosse, who dance
>> > "at the Court of Mary" and I would love to pass on information to them.
>>
>>It's referenced in the back of The Needlework of Mary Queen of Scots by
>>   Margaret Swain.
>>
>>Robertson, J.  Inventaires de la Royne Descosse douairiere de France:
>>catalogues of the jewels, dresses, furniture, books, and paintings of
>>Mary Queen of Scots : 1556-1569.  Edinburgh:  Bannatyne Club, 1863.
>>
>>I'm trying to ILL it, but it's fairly rare.


Thanks all - apparently my client has some photocopies of 
pages,  taken at the National Library of Scotland, and is using them, 
she now tells me - I didn't know she had these. You might want to contact them.

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Moda a Firenze
Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 19:56:50 -0500
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X-Miltered: at persephone with ID 43E3FBEA.004 by Joe's j-chkmail (http://j-chkmail.ensmp.fr)!
Status: RO

They are Wonderfully reliable!  Have been ordering from them for about 10
years!

Besides Lacis, they(she) have been offering all the specialty tools and
threads, besides books and manuals that anyone could want for all textile
arts for a very long time.  Lots of personal attention for your wants and
wishes.

(Unsolicited comments!)  Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <sunshine_buchler@agilent.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 2:58 PM
Subject: [h-cost] RE: Moda a Firenze


> I bought my copy of _Moda a Firenze_ from Lacis (http://www.lacis.com/) in
Berkeley CA, but I have heard they ran out... you could call and see if they
got more in, as my info is a month old.
>
> Yesterday I noticed that Hedgehog Handworks
(http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/BKCT6001.shtml) is selling it on
line. (I've never ordered from them on-line, so I don't know how reliable
they are).
>
> You can also order directly from the Museum, but they want payment in
Italian currency (and no credit cards) which I found problematic.
> -sunny
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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I'm interested in the outfit worn by the man on the left in black. I 
have my own ideas about what I see in this drawing, but I'd like to get 
a second opinion of what he is wearing.

http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/Matejko/1470guild.jpg

How would you interpret the lines on the front of his gown?

The image is by a 19th century artist who did a portfolio of "historical 
costumes", Jan Matejko.


Dawn


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From: "Kelly Grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
Date: Fri, 03 Feb 2006 22:47:44 -0400
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Status: RO

Hi Bjarne, modern men have larger arms and armscyes due to different types 
of physical activity, for the most part...yes there were occupations such as 
farmers and carpenters, but the upper class gentlemen took part in different 
activities. please don't feel bad about the fit of your armholes.

I thoroughly believe in the muslin fitting block, then using the well fitted 
block to create your pattern, much like you do with women's clothes. I 
really like the book 'metric pattern cutting for menswear' by Winifred 
Aldrich.

Use the Close fitting casual jacket block on p 16, shape a side back seam 
through squaring down from point 17, starting at a point 1/2 way between 
points 14 and 16, shape a nice curve hitting the line squared down from 
point 17. To shape the back shoulder seam,square a line up from the chest 
line at the front armhole. From point 8(the neck point) draw a line to the 
point where the chest line and that front armhole line meet(on the chest 
line). The line you have just drawn is your back shoulder line, cut the rest 
of the shoulder off and twist it around to the front shoulder so that the 
old shoulder seams meet and tape the paper seam together.

The pleats of your coat should sit at the high hip, I usually drop this from 
the waist level between 5 and 10 centimetres, depending on the build of the 
man.

The only problem I have found with any of Ms Aldrich's blocks is that the 
shoulder point is off the shoulder slightly on a lot of people.  This can be 
taken out in the fitting, I think she used a selection of wide shouldered 
manikins to come up with her draft ;-)

I hope that helps
Let me know!
Kelly in Nova Scotia

"Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced 
with danger.  To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, 
then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears"
Caius Merlyn Britannicus





>From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
>Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 20:27:21 +0100
>
>
>Hi,
>I am trying to make myself a new suit, and today i drafted the pattern of
>the english coat in Costume Close Up.
>It really is difficult to adapt an old pattern to a modern size.
>The armholes are much much two small and the shoulderseam sits very badly 
>on
>me. I have to redy the cut.
>This i always have to do and i wondered if others of you have the same
>problems?
>The gustavian suit i made last year, didnt have to be ajusted very much in
>comparison, but it is very painfull to wear it long times, because it 
>pushes
>my shoulders so much backwards.
>I dont understand how men had space for their arms in these suits.
>Upperclass people must have ben very skinny men without much mucle if any
>att all. Strange when i look at portraits, there seems to be no wrinkles in
>the armskyes, and there must have ben plenty of room for them.
>This is very odd...........
>
>Bjarne who wished i could for just one time make my pattern accurate at 
>this
>point, but no...............
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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In a message dated 2/3/2006 5:57:15 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
melanie@faucet.net writes:

For  carriage to be considered elegant, the shoulders and arms had to 
look  relaxed, the upper arms curving gently away from the torso, not 
dropping  straight down at the sides like servants or rustics


Partly it was training in holding one's body--this was one of the things a  
dance master taught--but also, little boys were put into "training" stays, if  
you will, just like girls were, that made them hold their shoulders back.   
Most men, though, left off wearing them when grown.
 
Ann Wass
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-----Original Message-----
I'm interested in the outfit worn by the man on the left in black. I
have my own ideas about what I see in this drawing, but I'd like to get
a second opinion of what he is wearing.

http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/Matejko/1470guild.jpg

How would you interpret the lines on the front of his gown?

The image is by a 19th century artist who did a portfolio of "historical
costumes", Jan Matejko.
Dawn

Looks like simplicity pattern 9887 but with straight sleeves.
The trim is running down the opening and you don't see it past the hands as
it looks as if he is pulling the hem up.
De


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Hi Cin,
Did you not enlarge the armscye nor the shoulder width at all?
Thanks for your comments.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cin" <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: "h-cost" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 12:55 AM
Subject: re: [h-cost] williamsburg suit


> Subject: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
>>I am trying to make myself a new suit, and today i drafted the pattern of
>>the english coat in Costume Close Up.
>>The armholes are much much two small and the shoulderseam sits very badly 
>>on
>>me. I have to redy the cut.
>>This i always have to do and i wondered if others of you have the same
>>problems?
>
> Yes, of course.  I did Coat, Vest and Breeches from suit #17.  You
> might want to troll thru the h-cost discussion from oh say winter 2004
> to spring 2005 and pickup all the comments, and answers to my
> questions re this suit.
>
>>I dont understand how men had space for their arms in these suits.
>>Upperclass people must have ben very skinny men without much mucle if any
>
> The coat's CF opening is about 4" wide. The buttons & buttonholes have
> no useful purpose on Coat #17.  This 4" spread may explain why you
> think the original owner of this suit is a skinny dude.
> The vest buttons closed, tho many extant vests have only the top
> buttonhole actually open & useable.  The rest are sewn but never cut.
> If you have the Baumgartner book from Williamsburg, the Norah Waugh
> Cut of Men's Clothes and Blanche Payne's layout for the 18th c suit,
> you'll get a broad spectrum of cut & fitting ideas.
>
>>att all. Strange when i look at portraits, there seems to be no wrinkles 
>>in
>>the armskyes, and there must have ben plenty of room for them.
>>This is very odd...........
>
> Did you make a mockup that included your interfacing and other
> interior construction?  Without the interfacing thru the front
> pectorial region, over the shoulder and across the upper back, yes it
> will wrinkle.  Anything would.  Bodies arent smooth. Only those
> corseted, pannier-wearing ladies you dress so marvelously are smooth
> thru the body.
>
> Norah Waugh shows the interfacing layout in her diagrams.  If you have
> an 18th c suit at hand (perhaps in a friendly museum) or even a 19th
> tailcoat, you can feel the changes in interfacing at placket,
> shoulders, pectorals, skirts, cuffs, etc. Even a modern *bespoke* suit
> will inform.
>
> I'm happy to try to help further, but I've only done the one 18th c
> man's garment.  I can however, do some pretty good tailoring.
>
>>Bjarne who wished i could for just one time make my pattern accurate at 
>>this
>>point, but no...
>
> I think you'll do just fine.  Wish I could see it in progress,
> --cin
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 11:19:02 +0100
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Subject: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
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Hi,
Thanks for all your interresting inputs to my question.
It is interresting to compare all the real cuts to the cuts in
Evolution of Fashion. What i want is to obtain the original cut as much as 
possible. But it really is difficult and i wished i had a dress stand of 
myself.
I cant stop thinking about all our words for newbeginners when we say that 
"oh no, dont use Evolution of Fashion" because that is so wrong and ment for 
theater costumes, when in the end our original cut ends up to look like 
these cuts in the book.
I wish i could make it excatly as original, but it is impossible..........
It does end to look like the cuts in Evolution.........

Bjarne


Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
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At 10:19 04/02/2006, you wrote:
>Hi,
>Thanks for all your interresting inputs to my question.
>It is interresting to compare all the real cuts to the cuts in
>Evolution of Fashion. What i want is to obtain the original cut as 
>much as possible. But it really is difficult and i wished i had a 
>dress stand of myself.
>I cant stop thinking about all our words for newbeginners when we 
>say that "oh no, dont use Evolution of Fashion" because that is so 
>wrong and ment for theater costumes, when in the end our original 
>cut ends up to look like these cuts in the book.
>I wish i could make it excatly as original, but it is impossible..........
>It does end to look like the cuts in Evolution.........


Bjarne

I think I have made this suit twice recently, but I used the pattern 
pieces as a guide only - my customer was a different size - and 
redrafted it to fit. I cut the armholes out when it is on the 
customer, so I know it is comfortable - I know this would be 
difficult for you, but do you have anyone you could trust to help you 
fit a toile?

You could always pop over to London and I could help you fit it! (lol)

Suzi 


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Does anybody have a pattern for 19th century women's pants? Thanks

		
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From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hi Bjarne.
  My sewing teacher Kia is doing a dressform course in june. It is quite expensive though, but the form will be an exact copy of yourself. The course itself is around 3000 kr and the materials are around 5-700. My mother has one and it is wonderful.
   
  Tania

Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
  Hi,
Thanks for all your interresting inputs to my question.
It is interresting to compare all the real cuts to the cuts in
Evolution of Fashion. What i want is to obtain the original cut as much as 
possible. But it really is difficult and i wished i had a dress stand of 
myself.
I cant stop thinking about all our words for newbeginners when we say that 
"oh no, dont use Evolution of Fashion" because that is so wrong and ment for 
theater costumes, when in the end our original cut ends up to look like 
these cuts in the book.
I wish i could make it excatly as original, but it is impossible..........
It does end to look like the cuts in Evolution.........

Bjarne


Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

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Subject: [h-cost] Harris Tweed
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> Message: 5
> Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 19:31:32 +0000
> From: Caroline <carolineebuckley@gmail.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] Harris Tweed
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <37ee9e000602031131hb0e2061x@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> I have been very fortunate and have come into the posession of just over 3
> yards of Harris Tweed. It's only 28" wide so it's a bit small for a tunic
> for my other half.
>
> I could make a medieval tunic with different material in the sleeves? Any
> thoughts as to how that might look - are we in a 'spoiling the ship for a
> ha'porth of tar' situation.
>
> Can anyone think of something that could be made with it? I suppose if all
> else fails I could sell it
>
> --
> Caroline
>
Could you make a sleeveless surcoat from it? Men wore those too
in the 13th century.

Claire 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Feb  4 07:58:04 2006
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 13:57:34 +0100
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Subject: [h-cost] williamsburg jacket
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Hi all.
After shopping for this weekend and got back again, i got an idea.
Ill send my green embroidered suit to the cleaners on monday, and in stead i 
will embroider new undercuff pieces and replace the old ones.
This is the only thing that needs to be replaced, and embroidering new 
undercuff pieces should not take me long time.
Dont you think this would be fine for a 3 days event if i bring along the 
green and the blue suit? I also have the velvet mundane suit with the red 
waistcoat i could use for the daytimes.
For the other, the Williamsburg suit, i think i could go to proffesional 
helpers. There are small shops here in Copenhagen who takes commision jobs 
of sewing jobs like mending or remade old things. If i bring them my mock 
up, i could have them help me to fit it better..........
I will do this in the future.........

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
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Hi Tania,
I have seen this in the school brochures sometimes. But 3000. kr. is a lot 
of money.
I think il skip this, but thanks for reminding me

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tania Gruning" <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 12:10 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] williamsburg suit


> Hi Bjarne.
>  My sewing teacher Kia is doing a dressform course in june. It is quite 
> expensive though, but the form will be an exact copy of yourself. The 
> course itself is around 3000 kr and the materials are around 5-700. My 
> mother has one and it is wonderful.
>
>  Tania
>
> Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
>  Hi,
> Thanks for all your interresting inputs to my question.
> It is interresting to compare all the real cuts to the cuts in
> Evolution of Fashion. What i want is to obtain the original cut as much as
> possible. But it really is difficult and i wished i had a dress stand of
> myself.
> I cant stop thinking about all our words for newbeginners when we say that
> "oh no, dont use Evolution of Fashion" because that is so wrong and ment 
> for
> theater costumes, when in the end our original cut ends up to look like
> these cuts in the book.
> I wish i could make it excatly as original, but it is impossible..........
> It does end to look like the cuts in Evolution.........
>
> Bjarne
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
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>
>
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This seems like a very "period" solution, Bjarne!
Have a wonderful time. We'll be looking forward to photos.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
>From: Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>Sent: Feb 4, 2006 7:57 AM
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] williamsburg jacket
>
>... i will embroider new undercuff pieces and replace the old ones....
>
>
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
>
>
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Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 13:32:37 +0000 (GMT)
From: katherine sanders <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk>
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query
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Hello all

I'm about to make my first crinoline, suitable for
wearing with a smallish bustle underneath a late
1860s/early70s gown that I recently bought - it's in a
bad way so I'm going to copy it as a pattern then try
and restore it.

Anyway, a lot of the original hoops that I've seen on
museums are made from a kind of sprung wire that is
round rather than the flattened steel i've seen in
various shops. So far I've not found anywhere that
makes the 'olde' type and am therefore assuming that
people go with the flattened steel. What I'm aiming to
do is make a set of women's undergarments (chemise,
bloomers, corset and crinoline) that can be on display
so I'd like the crinoline to look as authentic as
possible. My copy of Period Costume suggests using the
blind-making tape that you can run the steels through
and while that is an ACE idea, I'm not convinced it
will look good when on display.

Has anyone attempted to be uber-authentic in their
steel crinoline construction? I'd really appreciate it
if there were links to pages or sites anyone could
recommend. Google has not turned up anything suitable
so far...

Thanks again,
Katherine, venturing far from her early t-tunic roots.

"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright


		
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From: "Nancy Kiel" <nancy_kiel@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] my first glove!
Date: Sat, 04 Feb 2006 09:05:37 -0500
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A book I found on glove making says to measure around the hand just above 
the thumb.

Nancy Kiel
nancy_kiel@hotmail.com
Never tease a weasel!
This is very good advice.
For the weasel will not like it
And teasing isn't nice.




>From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] my first glove!
>Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 10:37:33 -0600 (CST)
>
>That is just fabulous!!! I really like this pattern. It is a copy of
>one of their 1947 sets that they published way back when. The thumb
>is the give away. Isn't that just the funkiest thumb you have ever
>seen?
>
>I love that suede.
>
>What Vogue means by S-M-L is that that our hand from finger tip to
>base of palm is either 6-7-8 inches in length OR it is 6-7-8 inches
>around at the fattest part of our hand. I am betting it is the
>fingertip measure.
>


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Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 08:34:04 -0600
Subject: Re: [h-cost] williamsburg jacket
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That sounds like a good idea, I wish we had folks like that in the
States. Just make sure that whoever is helping you to fit the suit
understands the fitting/style differences between modern and 18th century
suits. You don't want them 'fixing' the fit!


Karen
Seamstrix


On Sat, 4 Feb 2006 13:57:34 +0100 "Bjarne og Leif Drews"
<drewscph@post12.tele.dk> writes:
> Hi all.
> After shopping for this weekend and got back again, i got an idea.
> Ill send my green embroidered suit to the cleaners on monday, and in 
> stead i 
> will embroider new undercuff pieces and replace the old ones.
> This is the only thing that needs to be replaced, and embroidering 
> new 
> undercuff pieces should not take me long time.
> Dont you think this would be fine for a 3 days event if i bring 
> along the 
> green and the blue suit? I also have the velvet mundane suit with 
> the red 
> waistcoat i could use for the daytimes.
> For the other, the Williamsburg suit, i think i could go to 
> proffesional 
> helpers. There are small shops here in Copenhagen who takes 
> commision jobs 
> of sewing jobs like mending or remade old things. If i bring them my 
> mock 
> up, i could have them help me to fit it better..........
> I will do this in the future.........
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
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Oh yes, do come between April 9 and 13.  Then I could meet you too,  Anne :)




Bjarne

I think I have made this suit twice recently, but I used the pattern 
pieces as a guide only - my customer was a different size - and 
redrafted it to fit. I cut the armholes out when it is on the 
customer, so I know it is comfortable - I know this would be 
difficult for you, but do you have anyone you could trust to help you 
fit a toile?

You could always pop over to London and I could help you fit it! (lol)

Suzi 


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Subject: [h-cost] Dress Form Class: was williamsburg suit
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Clearly I won't be able to make the class, but I am interested, if you 
have a little information, about what materials will be used and what 
the process is.
I wonder if it isn't like the kits you can buy over here with a video...

Sg

Tania Gruning wrote:

>Hi Bjarne.
>  My sewing teacher Kia is doing a dressform course in june. It is quite expensive though, but the form will be an exact copy of yourself. The course itself is around 3000 kr and the materials are around 5-700. My mother has one and it is wonderful.
>   
>  Tania
>  
>

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPOEJJFMAA.otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] interpretation of an image
Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 08:31:58 -0700
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I thought it might be the edges of a fur lining, peeking out. ;o)
--sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 11:47 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] interpretation of an image


>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> I'm interested in the outfit worn by the man on the left in black. I
> have my own ideas about what I see in this drawing, but I'd like to get
> a second opinion of what he is wearing.
>
> http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/Matejko/1470guild.jpg
>
> How would you interpret the lines on the front of his gown?
>
> The image is by a 19th century artist who did a portfolio of "historical
> costumes", Jan Matejko.
> Dawn
>
> Looks like simplicity pattern 9887 but with straight sleeves.
> The trim is running down the opening and you don't see it past the hands
as
> it looks as if he is pulling the hem up.
> De


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 12:06:46 +0100
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Hi Suzi,
Thanks for the offer :-) well i use the cut of my green suit as a helping 
guide. My green suit is a little later period than this Williamsburg one. I 
find this interresting because it is "oldfashioned " in cut a kind of 
between the full skirted coats and the later narrower. It takes a little 
more space than i reconed, because the back is bias cut like the old ones as 
well.
Problem is that i really dont have time to go slow in
this, got an invitation to a hunting party 24th 25th and 26th ( there wont 
be any hunting, its just a theme) of february. I think perhaps i skip this 
projekt to a later one and then just make a copy of my green coat. Must cut 
out today, so that i can start up the sewing...........

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 11:26 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] williamsburg suit


> At 10:19 04/02/2006, you wrote:
>>Hi,
>>Thanks for all your interresting inputs to my question.
>>It is interresting to compare all the real cuts to the cuts in
>>Evolution of Fashion. What i want is to obtain the original cut as much as 
>>possible. But it really is difficult and i wished i had a dress stand of 
>>myself.
>>I cant stop thinking about all our words for newbeginners when we say that 
>>"oh no, dont use Evolution of Fashion" because that is so wrong and ment 
>>for theater costumes, when in the end our original cut ends up to look 
>>like these cuts in the book.
>>I wish i could make it excatly as original, but it is impossible..........
>>It does end to look like the cuts in Evolution.........
>
>
> Bjarne
>
> I think I have made this suit twice recently, but I used the pattern 
> pieces as a guide only - my customer was a different size - and redrafted 
> it to fit. I cut the armholes out when it is on the customer, so I know it 
> is comfortable - I know this would be difficult for you, but do you have 
> anyone you could trust to help you fit a toile?
>
> You could always pop over to London and I could help you fit it! (lol)
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Book Alert - Inventories of Henry VIII
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I get the David Brown Book Company alerts.  They have The Inventories of
Henry VIII edited by David Starkey for $72!!!!  I paid $170 for my copy and
was happy.  I had seen it at David Brown for $144 and thought it a bargain.
This is simply an unbelievable sale for a huge book stuffed with information
far in excess of the dry listing of what Henry and Edward owned.  It also
has a glossary and dictionary.  My copy bristles with little yellow sticky
notes marking fascinating things like the knitted hose, the hound collars,
the eye glasses.

A truly "Must have" book if you are into things Tudor.

The URL http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm/ID/8788 takes you right to
it, bypassing the deadly other sale offerings!


Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
Never attribute to malice what can as easily
be attributed to simple social ineptness


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Oh that's a good idea.  Will have to run that one past my other half.  Thank
you.

On 04/02/06, Purple Elephant <angharad@dodo.com.au> wrote:
>
> > Message: 5
> > Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 19:31:32 +0000
> > From: Caroline <carolineebuckley@gmail.com>
> > Subject: [h-cost] Harris Tweed
> > To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Message-ID: <37ee9e000602031131hb0e2061x@mail.gmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
> >
> > I have been very fortunate and have come into the posession of just over
> 3
> > yards of Harris Tweed. It's only 28" wide so it's a bit small for a
> tunic
> > for my other half.
> >
> > I could make a medieval tunic with different material in the sleeves?
> Any
> > thoughts as to how that might look - are we in a 'spoiling the ship for
> a
> > ha'porth of tar' situation.
> >
> > Can anyone think of something that could be made with it? I suppose if
> all
> > else fails I could sell it
> >
> > --
> > Caroline
> >
> Could you make a sleeveless surcoat from it? Men wore those too
> in the 13th century.
>
> Claire
>
> _______________________________________________
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--
Caroline
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings
  query
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At 13:32 04/02/2006, you wrote:
>Hello all
>
>I'm about to make my first crinoline, suitable for
>wearing with a smallish bustle underneath a late
>1860s/early70s gown that I recently bought - it's in a
>bad way so I'm going to copy it as a pattern then try
>and restore it.
>
>Anyway, a lot of the original hoops that I've seen on
>museums are made from a kind of sprung wire that is
>round rather than the flattened steel i've seen in
>various shops. So far I've not found anywhere that
>makes the 'olde' type and am therefore assuming that
>people go with the flattened steel. What I'm aiming to
>do is make a set of women's undergarments (chemise,
>bloomers, corset and crinoline) that can be on display
>so I'd like the crinoline to look as authentic as
>possible. My copy of Period Costume suggests using the
>blind-making tape that you can run the steels through
>and while that is an ACE idea, I'm not convinced it
>will look good when on display.

This 
http://www.suziclarke.co.uk/viewimage.php?image=cage_crinoline_1860.jpg 
is the kind made using the Hunnisett pattern and 
curtain tape, so you can get an idea of what it 
would look like on display. I have had no 
problems using this method for museum use.

Suzi

>Has anyone attempted to be uber-authentic in their
>steel crinoline construction? I'd really appreciate it
>if there were links to pages or sites anyone could
>recommend. Google has not turned up anything suitable
>so far...
>
>Thanks again,
>Katherine, venturing far from her early t-tunic roots.
>
>"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will
>annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright
>
>
>
>___________________________________________________________
>Yahoo! Photos ­ NEW, now offering a quality 
>print service from just 8p a photo http://uk.photos.yahoo.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Bjarnes old embroidered cuffs..was : thanks for your
 replyes of my embroideries and prices
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So, can you recycle your cuffs into something like a pillow, or little 
purse? 

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Thank you for putting this together.  I was aware of the Max Von Bohen 
source, but not of some of the others.  There are so many silly "truths" 
being strutted about.....it is a good lesson for newbies...do your own 
research. 

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query
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I'd do it the way Suzi suggests too.  

I've never managed to find the "watch spring" that the originals were made 
from, and am no longer sure if it's made in large quantities any more (though if 
anybody knows otherwise, do let me know!)

Though last time I used the narrowest flat steel I could find, and encased it 
in bone casing that I had, and ordinary cotton twill tape for the verticals, 
and I hand stitched the hoops in at the intersections, through the casing and 
the tape.  I also made the flounce at the bottom separately and attached it 
using buttons at regular intervals, so it could be removed for washing (it was 
for a wedding dress to later be used for re-enactment and so likely to be 
dragged around a muddy field).

Would like to do the 'uber-authenitc' type, but it's one of the many things 
on my list that I want to make for fun (rather than for customers), that I 
never seem to find the time for :-(

Debs




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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Feb  4 11:48:09 2006
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Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 11:17:20 -0600 (CST)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Book Alert - Inventories of Henry VIII
In-Reply-To: <HGEEKKPFPKOJBDPGKLOCIEBDMFAA.wandap@hevanet.com>
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On Sat, 4 Feb 2006, Wanda Pease wrote:

> I get the David Brown Book Company alerts.  They have The Inventories
> of Henry VIII edited by David Starkey for $72!!!!  I paid $170 for my
> copy and was happy.  I had seen it at David Brown for $144 and thought
> it a bargain. This is simply an unbelievable sale for a huge book
> stuffed with information far in excess of the dry listing of what
> Henry and Edward owned.  It also has a glossary and dictionary.  My
> copy bristles with little yellow sticky notes marking fascinating
> things like the knitted hose, the hound collars, the eye glasses.

Word on the street is that the long-awaited analysis volume, which was
shelved with Janet Arnold's death (she was doing the costume analysis) is
back in production. I don't know when it will be coming out. I have this
information from one of the scholars who is doing one of the other
sections of analysis.

--Robin


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Date: Sat, 04 Feb 2006 11:56:04 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Book Alert - Inventories of Henry VIII
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Speaking of Janet Arnold-- I know there were other things thet she was
working on that were supposed to be finished by others, including a book on
shiorts and smocks. Does anyone know if it was ever published?
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 12:17 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Book Alert - Inventories of Henry VIII



On Sat, 4 Feb 2006, Wanda Pease wrote:

> I get the David Brown Book Company alerts.  They have The Inventories
> of Henry VIII edited by David Starkey for $72!!!!  I paid $170 for my
> copy and was happy.  I had seen it at David Brown for $144 and thought
> it a bargain. This is simply an unbelievable sale for a huge book
> stuffed with information far in excess of the dry listing of what
> Henry and Edward owned.  It also has a glossary and dictionary.  My
> copy bristles with little yellow sticky notes marking fascinating
> things like the knitted hose, the hound collars, the eye glasses.

Word on the street is that the long-awaited analysis volume, which was
shelved with Janet Arnold's death (she was doing the costume analysis) is
back in production. I don't know when it will be coming out. I have this
information from one of the scholars who is doing one of the other
sections of analysis.

--Robin


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Feb  4 12:08:30 2006
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bjarnes old embroidered cuffs..was : thanks for your
	replyes of my embroideries and prices
Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 18:01:39 +0100
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Hi Saragrace.
I would have to cut away the underside cuff because it is really not a 
pretty sight, but well some kind of it could, perhaps one of these regency 
purces wich was recykled from embroidered waistcoats.
I made the cuff in one piece, not two...........

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "WickedFrau" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 4:21 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Bjarnes old embroidered cuffs..was : thanks for your 
replyes of my embroideries and prices


> So, can you recycle your cuffs into something like a pillow, or little 
> purse?
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Book Alert - Inventories of Henry VIII
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At 16:56 04/02/2006, you wrote:
>Speaking of Janet Arnold-- I know there were other things thet she was
>working on that were supposed to be finished by others, including a book on
>shiorts and smocks. Does anyone know if it was ever published?
>Monica
>

No, this has not been published, and from what I can gather, no-one 
seems able to give me a date for publication. Janet was on the 4th 
draft when she died, so I would not have thought there was a lot to 
do, as she had done all the drawings, or so she told me.

Suzi

>On Sat, 4 Feb 2006, Wanda Pease wrote:
>
> > I get the David Brown Book Company alerts.  They have The Inventories
> > of Henry VIII edited by David Starkey for $72!!!!  I paid $170 for my
> > copy and was happy.  I had seen it at David Brown for $144 and thought
> > it a bargain. This is simply an unbelievable sale for a huge book
> > stuffed with information far in excess of the dry listing of what
> > Henry and Edward owned.  It also has a glossary and dictionary.  My
> > copy bristles with little yellow sticky notes marking fascinating
> > things like the knitted hose, the hound collars, the eye glasses.
>
>Word on the street is that the long-awaited analysis volume, which was
>shelved with Janet Arnold's death (she was doing the costume analysis) is
>back in production. I don't know when it will be coming out. I have this
>information from one of the scholars who is doing one of the other
>sections of analysis.
>
>--Robin
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 09:34:12 -0800 (PST)
From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Moda a Firenze
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
In-Reply-To: <003d01c62925$e455e100$905083d1@rmitchellras>
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And I'll also vouch for Hedgehog Handworks!! *Very* reliable---and *very* helpful.I've known and worked with them , Joady and Colin, for 20 plus years. I also get most of my metal thread embroidery supplies for my classes from them:)
  Kathryn

Lloyd Mitchell <rmitchell@washjeff.edu> wrote:
  They are Wonderfully reliable! Have been ordering from them for about 10
years!

Besides Lacis, they(she) have been offering all the specialty tools and
threads, besides books and manuals that anyone could want for all textile
arts for a very long time. Lots of personal attention for your wants and
wishes.

(Unsolicited comments!) Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: 
To: 
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 2:58 PM
Subject: [h-cost] RE: Moda a Firenze


> I bought my copy of _Moda a Firenze_ from Lacis (http://www.lacis.com/) in
Berkeley CA, but I have heard they ran out... you could call and see if they
got more in, as my info is a month old.
>
> Yesterday I noticed that Hedgehog Handworks
(http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/BKCT6001.shtml) is selling it on
line. (I've never ordered from them on-line, so I don't know how reliable
they are).
>
> You can also order directly from the Museum, but they want payment in
Italian currency (and no credit cards) which I found problematic.
> -sunny
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Sat, 04 Feb 2006 18:07:26 +0000
From: rwfranz <rwfranz@hotpop.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress Form Class: was williamsburg suit
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Such as http://www.mytwindressforms.com/how.htm ?

Roger

WickedFrau wrote:

> Clearly I won't be able to make the class, but I am interested, if you 
> have a little information, about what materials will be used and what 
> the process is.
> I wonder if it isn't like the kits you can buy over here with a video...
>
> Tania Gruning wrote:
>
>> Hi Bjarne.
>>  My sewing teacher Kia is doing a dressform course in june. It is 
>> quite expensive though, but the form will be an exact copy of 
>> yourself. The course itself is around 3000 kr and the materials are 
>> around 5-700. My mother has one and it is wonderful. 
>
>
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From: "Kelly Grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
Date: Sat, 04 Feb 2006 14:51:46 -0400
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It will have a bit of a modern look, because of our modern bodies, but if 
you try to cut the back narrow, the shoulder seam to the back, the shoulders 
as narrow as possible, and the armhole high, you should still have the 
'look' you are trying to achieve.

I spoke with the other professor this morning about your dilema, he felt the 
same way I did...and it seems, many others, that you can't get a good fit by 
scaling up historical garments, we are built differently.

The only other thing I could suggest, as it worked for a college of mine, is 
to practice the movements and excercises of the period.  Mark taught 
Victorian period calesthenics for a historic site here in the city. When I 
went to create a new doublet for him, I found that the shape of his body 
pattern fit exactly like the period draft! It was exciting for both of us to 
see the way we move in different ways from our historical counterparts.

Good luck on the new draft!

Kelly in Nova Scotia



"Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced 
with danger.  To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, 
then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears"
Caius Merlyn Britannicus





>From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
>Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 11:19:02 +0100
>
>Hi,
>Thanks for all your interresting inputs to my question.
>It is interresting to compare all the real cuts to the cuts in
>Evolution of Fashion. What i want is to obtain the original cut as much as 
>possible. But it really is difficult and i wished i had a dress stand of 
>myself.
>I cant stop thinking about all our words for newbeginners when we say that 
>"oh no, dont use Evolution of Fashion" because that is so wrong and ment 
>for theater costumes, when in the end our original cut ends up to look like 
>these cuts in the book.
>I wish i could make it excatly as original, but it is impossible..........
>It does end to look like the cuts in Evolution.........
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Fitting, was: williamsburg jacket
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> That sounds like a good idea, I wish we had folks like that in the
> States. Just make sure that whoever is helping you to fit the suit
> understands the fitting/style differences between modern and
> 18th century suits. You don't want them 'fixing' the fit!

     We do have people like that!  Many drycleaners offer mending,
reweaving, tailoring, etc.

     I agree with your warning about "fixing the fit".  If someone is
trained for 21stC fit, they need to know where the fit is different.

     I've had good luck with friends who are not necessarily experts, but
can follow instructions.  And not stick pins in me.  :-)  The les
opinionated someone is about the project, the more likely they will
be able to do what you want.

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From: "Kelly Grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] williamsburg jacket
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Hi again Bjarne!
Take the period draft and the portrait you want to use as you inspiration 
with you when you go to the dressmakers or tailors...this will help them to 
help you with cut.  It's always better to have someone else do the fitting 
for you...I'm at this stage almost now, I will soon have the petticoat done 
and will be ready to fit the doublet.  I'm going to do the draft for the 
doublet, make a mock up and have Robert fit it on me.  Then I know it will 
fit, and all I'll have to do is stand in the mirror!

Good luck, we want to see pictures!

Oh and I think two suits over three days will be fine, paack lots of changes 
of linens(shirts and such) And you should be fine.  I usually bring three 
times the linen I think I'll need and half the dresses.

Kelly

"Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced 
with danger.  To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, 
then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears"
Caius Merlyn Britannicus


There are small shops here in Copenhagen who
>takes commision jobs of sewing jobs like mending or remade old things. If i 
>bring them my mock up, i could have them help me to fit it better..........
>I will do this in the future.........
>
>Bjarne


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Williamsburg suit.
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Hi again,
I think i have gotten the best of help i can get from Ian the Staymaker. He 
offered me to help me draft a pattern propperly :-)
So i can relax for the time being.
I really like that Williamsburg Suit, it is very nice, and would be lovely 
if i succed in making it for myself. Ian is the best of help i could get.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
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http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] another question,
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Status: RO

Sorry i keep you buisy. but i was thinking also about making the trimming 
for a tricorne. Make it in gold bobbin lace. I have some lovely thick gold 
gimp i could use.
Does any of you have any good ideas i could do with the ends of the bobbin 
lace. I cant sew away all the threads so i get an invisible joint. What 
could i place at the joint to hide it? A button? Would it be two much to 
make a looped lace flower?
Any idears would be greatfull apreciated!

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Harris Tweed
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If it's the hard, tight-woven stuff, make hoods for you and yours.  It's 
as waterproof as anything.

Jean


Caroline <carolineebuckley@gmail.com> wrote
>I have been very fortunate and have come into the posession of just over 3
>yards of Harris Tweed. It's only 28" wide so it's a bit small for a tunic
>for my other half.
>
>I could make a medieval tunic with different material in the sleeves? Any
>thoughts as to how that might look - are we in a 'spoiling the ship for a
>ha'porth of tar' situation.
>
>Can anyone think of something that could be made with it? I suppose if all
>else fails I could sell it
>
>--
>Caroline
>_______________________________________________
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: [h-cost] posture and cut, was williamsburg suit
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The cut of clothes seems to be still moving (not surprising really..)  I 
would say my husband and I both have pretty good posture, and recently 
we have both found that shirts or blouses from Next are too narrow 
across the front and too wide across the back.  If we stand normally 
they strain at the buttons - if we slump our shoulders a little they fit 
better!  Only from the one shop, so far, but Next must think this is the 
shape of the modern torso.

Are there any other periods when you find a wider back and narrower 
front? We know fashion is cyclical - waistlines go up and down, 
shoulders and hips go out and in - do shoulders go forward and back as 
well?

Jean



Kelly Grant <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com> wrote
>It will have a bit of a modern look, because of our modern bodies, but 
>if you try to cut the back narrow, the shoulder seam to the back, the 
>shoulders as narrow as possible, and the armhole high, you should still 
>have the 'look' you are trying to achieve.
>
>I spoke with the other professor this morning about your dilema, he 
>felt the same way I did...and it seems, many others, that you can't get 
>a good fit by scaling up historical garments, we are built differently.
>
>The only other thing I could suggest, as it worked for a college of 
>mine, is to practice the movements and excercises of the period.  Mark 
>taught Victorian period calesthenics for a historic site here in the 
>city. When I went to create a new doublet for him, I found that the 
>shape of his body pattern fit exactly like the period draft! It was 
>exciting for both of us to see the way we move in different ways from 
>our historical counterparts.
>
>Good luck on the new draft!
>
>Kelly in Nova Scotia
>
>
>
>"Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, 
>faced with danger.  To have courage, you must think about the dangers 
>in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, 
>despite your fears"
>Caius Merlyn Britannicus
>
>
>
>
>
>>From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>>Subject: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
>>Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 11:19:02 +0100
>>
>>Hi,
>>Thanks for all your interresting inputs to my question.
>>It is interresting to compare all the real cuts to the cuts in
>>Evolution of Fashion. What i want is to obtain the original cut as 
>>much as possible. But it really is difficult and i wished i had a 
>>dress stand of myself.
>>I cant stop thinking about all our words for newbeginners when we say 
>>that "oh no, dont use Evolution of Fashion" because that is so wrong 
>>and ment for theater costumes, when in the end our original cut ends 
>>up to look like these cuts in the book.
>>I wish i could make it excatly as original, but it is impossible..........
>>It does end to look like the cuts in Evolution.........
>>
>>Bjarne
>>
>>
>>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>>
>>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

-- 
Jean Waddie
_______________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 20:17:01 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Fw: [h-cost] Sees
References: <039101c628c3$e3ce9c20$0802a8c0@DGKQ5981>
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Status: RO

And Barbie appears to be wearing black court shoes (pumps) rather than 
white trainers, which also helps!

Jean

Lori Alston <asl@iw.net> wrote
>http://www.wweek.com/html/lifefeature112499.html
>
>Second one down in black and white you can see the big bow...
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6031569409&category=15953
>Barbire in a uniform this one fits better on Barbie then they do in 
>real life behind the counter
>
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Glenda Robinson" 
><glendarob@exemail.com.au>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 12:02 AM
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sees
>
>
>> I've seen worse, Darrell Lea in Australia used to have their shop 
>>assistants in a large shapeless shift with a huge floppy bow about the 
>>same place as this uniform. Shocking! Unfortunately, I can't find a 
>>photo of these on the net. Anyone else in OZ have any pics?
>>
>> Glenda.
>>
>> , but the 20th century
>>>> isn't exactly my area of costuming interest...
>>>
>>> I'd say early tacky or late dowdy ;-)  Seriously though, I've seen 
>>>some hideous work uniforms but I think Sees is a real leader here. 
>>>Fortunately their candy is wonderful and they're not selling their 
>>>uniforms...those poor ladies...
>>>
>>> Julie
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

-- 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] posture and cut, was williamsburg suit
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Hi Jean,
Yes i have often wondered this two, and this about narrow back was that a 
renaissance "thing" two?
There also is the 1625-50 "thing" to bend your back so that your belly goes 
out. This is both sexes..............

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jean Waddie" <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 9:13 PM
Subject: [h-cost] posture and cut, was williamsburg suit


> The cut of clothes seems to be still moving (not surprising really..)  I 
> would say my husband and I both have pretty good posture, and recently we 
> have both found that shirts or blouses from Next are too narrow across the 
> front and too wide across the back.  If we stand normally they strain at 
> the buttons - if we slump our shoulders a little they fit better!  Only 
> from the one shop, so far, but Next must think this is the shape of the 
> modern torso.
>
> Are there any other periods when you find a wider back and narrower front? 
> We know fashion is cyclical - waistlines go up and down, shoulders and 
> hips go out and in - do shoulders go forward and back as well?
>
> Jean
>
>
>
> Kelly Grant <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com> wrote
>>It will have a bit of a modern look, because of our modern bodies, but if 
>>you try to cut the back narrow, the shoulder seam to the back, the 
>>shoulders as narrow as possible, and the armhole high, you should still 
>>have the 'look' you are trying to achieve.
>>
>>I spoke with the other professor this morning about your dilema, he felt 
>>the same way I did...and it seems, many others, that you can't get a good 
>>fit by scaling up historical garments, we are built differently.
>>
>>The only other thing I could suggest, as it worked for a college of mine, 
>>is to practice the movements and excercises of the period.  Mark taught 
>>Victorian period calesthenics for a historic site here in the city. When I 
>>went to create a new doublet for him, I found that the shape of his body 
>>pattern fit exactly like the period draft! It was exciting for both of us 
>>to see the way we move in different ways from our historical counterparts.
>>
>>Good luck on the new draft!
>>
>>Kelly in Nova Scotia
>>
>>
>>
>>"Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced 
>>with danger.  To have courage, you must think about the dangers in 
>>advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite 
>>your fears"
>>Caius Merlyn Britannicus
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>>>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>>>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>>>Subject: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
>>>Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 11:19:02 +0100
>>>
>>>Hi,
>>>Thanks for all your interresting inputs to my question.
>>>It is interresting to compare all the real cuts to the cuts in
>>>Evolution of Fashion. What i want is to obtain the original cut as much 
>>>as possible. But it really is difficult and i wished i had a dress stand 
>>>of myself.
>>>I cant stop thinking about all our words for newbeginners when we say 
>>>that "oh no, dont use Evolution of Fashion" because that is so wrong and 
>>>ment for theater costumes, when in the end our original cut ends up to 
>>>look like these cuts in the book.
>>>I wish i could make it excatly as original, but it is 
>>>impossible..........
>>>It does end to look like the cuts in Evolution.........
>>>
>>>Bjarne
>>>
>>>
>>>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>>>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>>>
>>>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>>>
>>>
>>>_______________________________________________
>>>h-costume mailing list
>>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> -- 
> Jean Waddie
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Bad, Bad, Bad Wanda!  Thank you! 
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Subject: [h-cost] Lacis & slate frames {was Moda a Firenze}
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At 04:56 PM 2/3/2006, you wrote:
>Besides Lacis, they(she) have been offering all the specialty tools and
>threads, besides books and manuals that anyone could want for all textile
>arts for a very long time.  Lots of personal attention for your wants and
>wishes.


I once thought that way about Lacis carrying every textile art thing I 
could imagine until recently.

I was hoping they would have a slate/peg frame for embroidery (the old 
fashion kind of embroidery frame, found in the UK, but not commonly found 
in the States). I've asked via email about one, and Lacis never responded. 
A friend asked them in person when he visited the store, and they didn't 
know what it was. I was surprised since I figured they, of all the stores 
I've known in California, would know what one was and would have one in stock.

Not even Hedgehog Handworks has them (at least not online, and they also 
didn't respond to e-mail). I've only found one US site that carry them, and 
one other site that claims it will in the future. Both are on the east coast.

Kimiko
Fresno, CA, USA


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Date: Sat, 04 Feb 2006 12:58:45 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] interpretation of an image
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At 06:23 PM 2/3/2006, you wrote:
>I'm interested in the outfit worn by the man on the left in black. I have 
>my own ideas about what I see in this drawing, but I'd like to get a 
>second opinion of what he is wearing.
>
>http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/Matejko/1470guild.jpg
>
>How would you interpret the lines on the front of his gown?
>
>The image is by a 19th century artist who did a portfolio of "historical 
>costumes", Jan Matejko.
>
>
>Dawn


It looks to me to be a scholars gown, with black velvet perhaps for the 
upper body area, and maybe guards down the front. However, since the 
shadows are also in the same/similar darker pencil lines, I am not positive 
if that isn't just to represent shadows as well.

Kimiko

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Subject: [h-cost] Oseberg textiles
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I remember hearing a rumor that the volume 4 (textile finds) of 
Osebergfundet was written but never published.. does anyone know the status 
of that project?

Beth

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Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 22:05:21 +0000
From: Caroline <carolineebuckley@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oseberg textiles
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As volume 5 was published in 1919 - I doubt anyone is alive who had any hand
in volume 4.  I would sugest contacting Oldsaksamling University, Oslo to
see if there is any manscript survives.


On 04/02/06, Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net> wrote:
>
> I remember hearing a rumor that the volume 4 (textile finds) of
> Osebergfundet was written but never published.. does anyone know the
> status
> of that project?
>
> Beth
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



--
Caroline
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Caroline wrote:
> As volume 5 was published in 1919 - I doubt anyone is alive who had any hand
> in volume 4.  I would sugest contacting Oldsaksamling University, Oslo to
> see if there is any manscript survives.
> 
>
	ah but volumes 1-3 & 5 were published as you said, but volume 4 was 
never published! there's been that rumour that it's coming out for quite 
a while - not a clue on reality though.

	-Judy Mitchell
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] interpretation of an image
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On Sat, 4 Feb 2006, Kimiko Small wrote:

> At 06:23 PM 2/3/2006, you wrote:
> >I'm interested in the outfit worn by the man on the left in black. I have 
> >my own ideas about what I see in this drawing, but I'd like to get a 
> >second opinion of what he is wearing.
> >
> >http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/Matejko/1470guild.jpg
> >
> >How would you interpret the lines on the front of his gown?
> >
> >The image is by a 19th century artist who did a portfolio of "historical 
> >costumes", Jan Matejko.
> 
> It looks to me to be a scholars gown, with black velvet perhaps for
> the upper body area, and maybe guards down the front. However, since
> the shadows are also in the same/similar darker pencil lines, I am not
> positive if that isn't just to represent shadows as well.

Or, equally likely, the original artwork had shadows, and the artist
didn't understand what he was looking at, and rendered them as lines that
might have been (in his impression) seams or trim or a separate overlayer.
It's anyone's guess what the 19th-century artist thought it was, and in
any case, that probably has little to do with what was actually done
historically.

--Robin

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From: "Cabbage Rose Costumes" <cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<6.2.3.4.0.20060204171854.01dc2148@127.0.0.1>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1930's factory wear
Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 19:09:30 -0800
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Can anyone on the list point me to a source for period uniforms for the 
depression era?  Or perhaps even abroad in the 1930s.  I am doing a 
production of Urinetown, and we are going for a thirties depression era 
feel, although the show is not actually set in any time period.  (It's 
actually the future, I believe).

I did a few cursory net searches without much luck, but thought perhaps 
someone already had some sourcing and could save me some time for my 
inspiration.

As always, thanks in advance.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
W. Shakespeare


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Book Alert - Inventories of Henry VIII
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Wanda Pease wrote:


> This is simply an unbelievable sale for a huge book stuffed with information
> far in excess of the dry listing of what Henry and Edward owned.  It also
> has a glossary and dictionary.  My copy bristles with little yellow sticky
> notes marking fascinating things like the knitted hose, the hound collars,
> the eye glasses.

Is it illustrated at all or is it simply text?



Dawn


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Kimiko Small wrote:

>> http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/Matejko/1470guild.jpg
>>
> 
> It looks to me to be a scholars gown, with black velvet perhaps for the 
> upper body area, and maybe guards down the front. However, since the 
> shadows are also in the same/similar darker pencil lines, I am not 
> positive if that isn't just to represent shadows as well.
> 


It's that upper part I'm concerned about. I don't see yokes in men's 
clothing this early, and it's been suggested to me that this gown has a 
yoke. Even as a re-drawing, I'm hesitant to say that's why the top part 
is darker. I'm thinking it's just been colored badly.

Unless someone knows of a real example of a yoked gown from the 1400's....


Dawn


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Book Alert - Inventories of Henry VIII
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>
> Is it illustrated at all or is it simply text?
>
>
>
> Dawn

All Text, but there is the promise of an illustrated second volume this
sometime "real soon" now.  Things are described in such a way, that if you
have much experience with period items you will have little trouble
envisioning them.  Of course, for me the written word translates into a
vision in my head.  I 'see' the story a book is telling.  It makes it hard
when my favorites are made into movies and the characters don't look a thing
like I imagine them!

Wanda
> Wanda Pease wrote:
>


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query
Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 23:00:19 -0800
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I'm not sure if it would work, but can you try using the steel in measuring
tapes? If it's the right kind, you could maybe get it from the manufacturer.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Debloughcostumes@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 8:39 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query


I'd do it the way Suzi suggests too.  

I've never managed to find the "watch spring" that the originals were made 
from, and am no longer sure if it's made in large quantities any more
(though if 
anybody knows otherwise, do let me know!)

Though last time I used the narrowest flat steel I could find, and encased
it 
in bone casing that I had, and ordinary cotton twill tape for the verticals,

and I hand stitched the hoops in at the intersections, through the casing
and 
the tape.  I also made the flounce at the bottom separately and attached it 
using buttons at regular intervals, so it could be removed for washing (it
was 
for a wedding dress to later be used for re-enactment and so likely to be 
dragged around a muddy field).

Would like to do the 'uber-authenitc' type, but it's one of the many things 
on my list that I want to make for fun (rather than for customers), that I 
never seem to find the time for :-(

Debs




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>From the head gear on the man behind the guy in black, you are probably
looking at Germanic.
Maybe coat flaps (fur lined) or "collar" .
http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/durer/p-durer21.htm
http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/durer/p-durer9.htm
http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/durer/p-durer25.htm
Upper right, pink and black striped sleeves (which is probably Durer)
http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/durer/p-durer59.htm
http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/durer/p-durer47.htm

-----Original Message-----
It's that upper part I'm concerned about. I don't see yokes in men's
clothing this early, and it's been suggested to me that this gown has a
yoke. Even as a re-drawing, I'm hesitant to say that's why the top part
is darker. I'm thinking it's just been colored badly.

Unless someone knows of a real example of a yoked gown from the 1400's....


Dawn


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From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress Form Class: was williamsburg suit
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One of the problems with the papertape and ducttape forms is that they are not really corrected after being made. Standing up for 2 hours or so, getting glued up with automatically make you slouch, so what you get is a dressform with a bad posture ;-)
   
  The teacher is using some special strong paper and glue to get the form, then the form is cut up and corrected to your normal bodyshape, a thin layer of padding is put on, and a fabric cover is made. What you get is an exact copy of yourself, minus the slouching.
  Oh, those 3000 danish kr is a long weekend course Friday noon to Monday night with overnight stay and food.
  Tania

WickedFrau <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote:
  Clearly I won't be able to make the class, but I am interested, if you 
have a little information, about what materials will be used and what 
the process is.
I wonder if it isn't like the kits you can buy over here with a video...

Sg

Tania Gruning wrote:

>Hi Bjarne.
> My sewing teacher Kia is doing a dressform course in june. It is quite expensive though, but the form will be an exact copy of yourself. The course itself is around 3000 kr and the materials are around 5-700. My mother has one and it is wonderful.
> 
> Tania
> 
>

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From: Caroline <carolineebuckley@gmail.com>
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I know vol 4 was never published.  If it is going to be published only Oslo
University would know.  I recently got some unpublished text from Perth (I
still had to pay - and I cannot publish it) on medieval textiles excavated
in the  80's.

The text for Osbergfundet 4 may also be available in this form.  Write to
them and ask.

On 05/02/06, Judy Mitchell <judymitch@theoldforest.net> wrote:
>
> Caroline wrote:
> > As volume 5 was published in 1919 - I doubt anyone is alive who had any
> hand
> > in volume 4.  I would sugest contacting Oldsaksamling University, Oslo
> to
> > see if there is any manscript survives.
> >
> >
>         ah but volumes 1-3 & 5 were published as you said, but volume 4
> was
> never published! there's been that rumour that it's coming out for quite
> a while - not a clue on reality though.
>
>         -Judy Mitchell
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] interpretation of an image
Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 08:16:11 -0500
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Here's a wild guess.
The answer might  be cued from the piece of paper in his hand.  Since the
rest of the people in the scene seem to be laborers, the man in the robe
could be what we might now call a foreman of some sort.  The part of the
garment that has the effect of a yoke appears to me to be separate add-on.
There seem to be no gather as we see in later images of the robes that
became academic or judicial garb of honor.

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 10:26 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] interpretation of an image


> Kimiko Small wrote:
>
> >> http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/Matejko/1470guild.jpg
> >>
> >
> > It looks to me to be a scholars gown, with black velvet perhaps for the
> > upper body area, and maybe guards down the front. However, since the
> > shadows are also in the same/similar darker pencil lines, I am not
> > positive if that isn't just to represent shadows as well.
> >
>
>
> It's that upper part I'm concerned about. I don't see yokes in men's
> clothing this early, and it's been suggested to me that this gown has a
> yoke. Even as a re-drawing, I'm hesitant to say that's why the top part
> is darker. I'm thinking it's just been colored badly.
>
> Unless someone knows of a real example of a yoked gown from the 1400's....
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <001501c62a21$d3550690$0200a8c0@bob3pc>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query
Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 08:36:58 -0500
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Status: RO

Wouldn't that be too flimsy?  Seems to me that the weight of any garment
would crush the extension.  I have read somewhere (Godey's) that piano wire
was one of the reliable wires for making these cages.  I have at least three
crins of this period and the wire in them is not quite tubular (think
'linguini and not speggitti).It is flexable but is not bent easily. The
originals were fiber cased. One I use for contemporary use ad shed most of
this covering in it's long history.  I recovered it with white florist tape.
This allows it to move freely in its traces and retards the rusting of the
steel. Another one has had the vertical tapes replaced with drapery
header.  I found one that was the width of the original and had the neat
tracers that accommodated the wire exactly.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 2:00 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings
query


> I'm not sure if it would work, but can you try using the steel in
measuring
> tapes? If it's the right kind, you could maybe get it from the
manufacturer.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Debloughcostumes@aol.com
> Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 8:39 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query
>
>
> I'd do it the way Suzi suggests too.
>
> I've never managed to find the "watch spring" that the originals were made
> from, and am no longer sure if it's made in large quantities any more
> (though if
> anybody knows otherwise, do let me know!)
>
> Though last time I used the narrowest flat steel I could find, and encased
> it
> in bone casing that I had, and ordinary cotton twill tape for the
verticals,
>
> and I hand stitched the hoops in at the intersections, through the casing
> and
> the tape.  I also made the flounce at the bottom separately and attached
it
> using buttons at regular intervals, so it could be removed for washing (it
> was
> for a wedding dress to later be used for re-enactment and so likely to be
> dragged around a muddy field).
>
> Would like to do the 'uber-authenitc' type, but it's one of the many
things
> on my list that I want to make for fun (rather than for customers), that I
> never seem to find the time for :-(
>
> Debs
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
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Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 09:15:23 -0500
From: Katy Bishop <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query
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Status: RO

Farthingale's has "crin steel" a "Thread Covered Hoop Steel", I've
never tried it but it looks much like what is in original cage hoops,
don't know about the weight/stiffness.  I've wanted to try it for a
cage hoop or bustle if my budget ever allows.

http://www.farthingales.on.ca/hoopsteel.php

Text from their website:

Hoop Steel/Crin Steel/Tutu Steel

"We have several weights of hoop steel and you will likely be able to
find one to suit your purpose. One style is "thread covered", it can
be bent but not easily, comes in 3 widths and two colours; the
narrowest is known as tutu steel as it is used in tutus for partner
work. The second type of steel is "plastic coated" and this comes in
varying widths and weights. Both require tin snips to cut."

Greengerg and Hammer sells bons casing to fit 1/4" and 1/2 inch bones,
this could alaso be used to construct a cage hoop or bustle.  And it's
cotton.  I also use this for corset bone casings.

http://www.greenberg-hammer.com/store.asp?ItemID=1340

Katy

On 2/5/06, Sharon at Collierfam.com <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote:
> I'm not sure if it would work, but can you try using the steel in measuring
> tapes? If it's the right kind, you could maybe get it from the manufacturer.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Debloughcostumes@aol.com
> Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 8:39 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query
>
>
> I'd do it the way Suzi suggests too.
>
> I've never managed to find the "watch spring" that the originals were made
> from, and am no longer sure if it's made in large quantities any more
> (though if
> anybody knows otherwise, do let me know!)
>
> Though last time I used the narrowest flat steel I could find, and encased
> it
> in bone casing that I had, and ordinary cotton twill tape for the verticals,
>
> and I hand stitched the hoops in at the intersections, through the casing
> and
> the tape.  I also made the flounce at the bottom separately and attached it
> using buttons at regular intervals, so it could be removed for washing (it
> was
> for a wedding dress to later be used for re-enactment and so likely to be
> dragged around a muddy field).
>
> Would like to do the 'uber-authenitc' type, but it's one of the many things
> on my list that I want to make for fun (rather than for customers), that I
> never seem to find the time for :-(
>
> Debs
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


--
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] interpretation of an image
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It looks to me like an add-on, too--an applied exaggerated collar (fur?), most likely, considering how well it fits the neck edge of the gown. (Those points would have been the envy of Carnaby Street back in the 'Sixties!) It doesn't look like a turn-back of the gown's natural edge.
I initially thought of a separate mini-surplice-like thing, but how it would maintain its shape and also line up along the neck edge I don't know.
I know nothing of this illustrator--did he reliably work from original illustrations such as paintings and illuminations, or was he one of the nineteenth-century fact-plus-imagination types?
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
>From: Lloyd Mitchell <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
>Sent: Feb 5, 2006 8:16 AM
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] interpretation of an image
>
>Here's a wild guess.
>The answer might  be cued from the piece of paper in his hand.  Since the
>rest of the people in the scene seem to be laborers, the man in the robe
>could be what we might now call a foreman of some sort.  The part of the
>garment that has the effect of a yoke appears to me to be separate add-on.
>There seem to be no gather as we see in later images of the robes that
>became academic or judicial garb of honor.
>
>Kathleen
>
>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 10:26 PM
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] interpretation of an image
>
>
>> Kimiko Small wrote:
>>
>> >> http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/Matejko/1470guild.jpg
>> >>
>> >
>> > It looks to me to be a scholars gown, with black velvet perhaps for the
>> > upper body area, and maybe guards down the front. However, since the
>> > shadows are also in the same/similar darker pencil lines, I am not
>> > positive if that isn't just to represent shadows as well.
>> >
>>
>>
>> It's that upper part I'm concerned about. I don't see yokes in men's
>> clothing this early, and it's been suggested to me that this gown has a
>> yoke. Even as a re-drawing, I'm hesitant to say that's why the top part
>> is darker. I'm thinking it's just been colored badly.
>>
>> Unless someone knows of a real example of a yoked gown from the 1400's....
>>
>>
>> Dawn
>>
>>
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Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 11:29:13 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query
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>I have at least three crins of this period and the wire in them is 
>not quite tubular (think 'linguini and not speggitti).It is flexable 
>but is not bent easily. The originals were fiber cased.

      Needle & Thread in Gettysburg, PA (USA) carries this hooping. 
At least they did some years back when I got it.  They have patterns, 
fabric and supplies for historic reenactors.

      -Carol
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1930's factory wear
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angela wrote:


> Can anyone on the list point me to a source for period uniforms for the 
> depression era?  Or perhaps even abroad in the 1930s.  I am doing a 
> production of Urinetown, and we are going for a thirties depression era 
> feel,

If what you're looking for is US military uniforms, do an image search at 
www.altavista.com  on "bonus march", which was in 1932, and 1930's + strikes 
and you will get plenty of images of army uniforms.
              -Helen/Aidan 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1930's factory wear
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I should have paid more attention to the title, but the search on 1930's 
strikes should also get you pictures of steel and auto workers.
              -Helen/Aidan 

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: posture and cut, was williamsburg suit
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I have been watching this topic with interest. Just my uneducated opinion, but I think there are a number of factors at play here.
   
  We are healthier and better fed than our ancestors so yes, our bodies are 'modern' and in many cases lager scaled, but life style has a great deal to do with it as well.
   
  For the most part we are trying to reproduce fashions of the middle and upper classes, whose lifestyle was considerably different than the "working" man. If burly shoulders were an indication of a man that had to labor to eke out a living, then I can see where the fashion would be towards making the silhouette as narrow as possible to indicate that a person did not have to labor for his living. These days a more muscular appearance seems to be favored through all social strata.
   
  Young men from prosperous families in previous eras engaged in 'leisure activities' that required an upright "back straight, shoulders up and square" posture such as horseback riding, fencing, shooting, etc. And young women similarly - I defy anyone to slouch and play the piano well for example.
   
  By comparison, many modern day people drive to work, sit at computers, and for entertainment watch television. Those striving for fitness often work out a gym or health spa which gives a different body structure again than someone whole engages in physical labor for a living.
   
  And, as has been mentioned already, posture was an indicator of social status.
   
  Also, modern medical science and chiropractic support a more natural posture, advocating allowing for the natural curvature of the spine. To me this looks like slouching btw, but it does open the shoulders wider. Just for an experiement and out of curiosity - I had my shoulder width measured while sitting up square and straight and then when slouching - there was a 5" difference in the width of my shoulder measurement!
   
  There are still a wide variety of body types out there. For example, I have a friend who would probably need very little alteration or scaling up for that matter to be fitted well.
   
  Lastly, if the stereotype for physical appearance/stature being related to country or geographical area of origin has any basis in fact, would not the clothing made for an 18th cent. Frenchman, (who were supposedly shorter and smaller in stature), be a bit tight for an 18th cent. contemporary from a different geographical origin?
   
  JMHO
   
  Annette M 
  
 
  Message: 4
Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 20:13:25 +0000
From: Jean Waddie 
Subject: [h-cost] posture and cut, was williamsburg suit

The cut of clothes seems to be still moving (not surprising really..) I 
would say my husband and I both have pretty good posture, and recently 
we have both found that shirts or blouses from Next are too narrow 
across the front and too wide across the back. If we stand normally 
they strain at the buttons - if we slump our shoulders a little they fit 
better! Only from the one shop, so far, but Next must think this is the 
shape of the modern torso.

Are there any other periods when you find a wider back and narrower 
front? We know fashion is cyclical - waistlines go up and down, 
shoulders and hips go out and in - do shoulders go forward and back as 
well?

Jean



Kelly Grant wrote
>It will have a bit of a modern look, because of our modern bodies, but 
>if you try to cut the back narrow, the shoulder seam to the back, the 
>shoulders as narrow as possible, and the armhole high, you should still 
>have the 'look' you are trying to achieve.
>
>I spoke with the other professor this morning about your dilema, he 
>felt the same way I did...and it seems, many others, that you can't get 
>a good fit by scaling up historical garments, we are built differently.
>
>The only other thing I could suggest, as it worked for a college of 
>mine, is to practice the movements and excercises of the period. Mark 
>taught Victorian period calesthenics for a historic site here in the 
>city. When I went to create a new doublet for him, I found that the 
>shape of his body pattern fit exactly like the period draft! It was 
>exciting for both of us to see the way we move in different ways from 
>our historical counterparts.
>
>Good luck on the new draft!
>
>Kelly in Nova Scotia
>
>
>
>"Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, 
>faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers 
>in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, 
>despite your fears"
>Caius Merlyn Britannicus
>
>
>
>
>
>>From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" 
>>Reply-To: Historical Costume 
>>To: 
>>Subject: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
>>Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 11:19:02 +0100
>>
>>Hi,
>>Thanks for all your interresting inputs to my question.
>>It is interresting to compare all the real cuts to the cuts in
>>Evolution of Fashion. What i want is to obtain the original cut as 
>>much as possible. But it really is difficult and i wished i had a 
>>dress stand of myself.
>>I cant stop thinking about all our words for newbeginners when we say 
>>that "oh no, dont use Evolution of Fashion" because that is so wrong 
>>and ment for theater costumes, when in the end our original cut ends 
>>up to look like these cuts in the book.
>>I wish i could make it excatly as original, but it is impossible..........
>>It does end to look like the cuts in Evolution.........
>>
>>Bjarne
>>
>>
>>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>>
>>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>>



Message: 6
Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 21:22:27 +0100
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] posture and cut, was williamsburg suit
To: "Historical Costume" 

Hi Jean,
Yes i have often wondered this two, and this about narrow back was that a 
renaissance "thing" two?
There also is the 1625-50 "thing" to bend your back so that your belly goes 
out. This is both sexes..............

Bjarne


			
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Subject: [h-cost] Magna Carta Clause 35
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In my translation anyway it says...
   
  Clause 35. Let there be one measure......, and one width of cloth whether dyed, russet or halberjet, namely two ells within the selvedges.
   
  Dyed I understand.
   
  Russet? Somehow I don't think this refers to red cloth.
   
  And does anyone know what halberjet is?
   
  These are the only definitions I got when I googled.
   
  Russet- a coarse, home-spun cloth much used by the peasantry. 
  Halberjet- probably a superior type of cloth.   
  Ell- a standard measure of length said to have been based on the length of the right arm of king Henry 1. 
   
  Annette M

		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Magna Carta Clause 35
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In period, russet referred to natural brown wool. By the Elizabethan era
(the one I'm most familiar with), russet cloth had come to
imply/symbolize the honest and sturdy countryman who would wear fabric
made from English wools instead of the foreign silks worn by courtiers.


Karen
Seamstrix



On Sun, 5 Feb 2006 09:08:22 -0800 (PST) Kahlara <kahlara@yahoo.com>
writes:
> In my translation anyway it says...
>    
>   Clause 35. Let there be one measure......, and one width of cloth 
> whether dyed, russet or halberjet, namely two ells within the 
> selvedges.
>    
>   Dyed I understand.
>    
>   Russet? Somehow I don't think this refers to red cloth.
>    
>   And does anyone know what halberjet is?
>    
>   These are the only definitions I got when I googled.
>    
>   Russet- a coarse, home-spun cloth much used by the peasantry. 
>   Halberjet- probably a superior type of cloth.   
>   Ell- a standard measure of length said to have been based on the 
> length of the right arm of king Henry 1. 
>    
>   Annette M
> 
>                 
> ---------------------------------
> Relax. Yahoo! Mail virus scanning helps detect nasty viruses!
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>> Can anyone on the list point me to a source for period uniforms for the 
>> depression era?  Or perhaps even abroad in the 1930s.  I am doing a 
>> production of Urinetown, and we are going for a thirties depression era 
>> feel,

http://memory.loc.gov/ammem/fsowhome.html


photos from 1935-1945 in color and black and white, searchable to some 
degree.

Denise
Iowa 

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References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10602041116030.5436-100000@shell.nightowl.net><NJEJJAKCDDIJCJLBNKFIEEGICMAA.monicaspence@optonline.net><6.2.3.4.0.20060204171854.01dc2148@127.0.0.1><007c01c62a01$95446820$0701a8c0@lazear1><009f01c62a74$665be830$cc159b04@HELENPINTO>
	<038e01c62a7f$a9d1ccf0$2ad12b42@denise8541f2db>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1930's factory wear
Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 12:23:08 -0600
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>
> http://memory.loc.gov/ammem/fsowhome.html
>
>
> photos from 1935-1945 in color and black and white, searchable to some 
> degree.


I should  have added some categories to look under so you don't get 
overwhelmed. The subject heading "laborers" shows men and women in 
depression era clothing. The subject heading "women--employment" shows many 
women in the war era working in factories.  The subject heading "women" has 
many of the war era factory photos, plus many in other settings and time 
frames.

It's a great web site to just cruise around. Nearly every aspect of living 
at the time is depicted in some form or another.

Denise 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1930's factory wear
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See if you can find the Time-Life books series of pictoral histories  of the 
different decades.  These books are full of pictures of people in  all walks 
of life.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: [h-cost] slate frames
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Try contact Pastiche:  <pastinc@teleport.com>.

They're a wonderful costuming/needlework/books merchant located in
Portland, OR. They have carried slate frames in the past.

If this e-mail doesn't work, write me off-list and I'll send you their
phone number.

Arlys
Cley@juno.com

> I was hoping they would have a slate/peg frame for embroidery (the 
> old 
> fashion kind of embroidery frame, found in the UK, but not commonly 
> found 
> in the States). I've asked via email about one, and Lacis never 
> responded. 
> A friend asked them in person when he visited the store, and they 
> didn't 
> know what it was. I was surprised since I figured they, of all the 
> stores 
> I've known in California, would know what one was and would have one 
> in stock.

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] interpretation of an image
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I was seeing the whole thing as Soldiers and Nobles vs. Scholars and
craftsmen. (viz. Might makes right? Early class consciousness?)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lloyd Mitchell
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 7:16 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] interpretation of an image

Here's a wild guess.
The answer might  be cued from the piece of paper in his hand.  Since the
rest of the people in the scene seem to be laborers, the man in the robe
could be what we might now call a foreman of some sort.  The part of the
garment that has the effect of a yoke appears to me to be separate add-on.
There seem to be no gather as we see in later images of the robes that
became academic or judicial garb of honor.

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 10:26 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] interpretation of an image


> Kimiko Small wrote:
>
> >> http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/Matejko/1470guild.jpg
> >>
> >
> > It looks to me to be a scholars gown, with black velvet perhaps for the
> > upper body area, and maybe guards down the front. However, since the
> > shadows are also in the same/similar darker pencil lines, I am not
> > positive if that isn't just to represent shadows as well.
> >
>
>
> It's that upper part I'm concerned about. I don't see yokes in men's
> clothing this early, and it's been suggested to me that this gown has a
> yoke. Even as a re-drawing, I'm hesitant to say that's why the top part
> is darker. I'm thinking it's just been colored badly.
>
> Unless someone knows of a real example of a yoked gown from the 1400's....
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Hi,
Not that it is my period, and i dont want to interfer your disgussion, but i 
was thinking about the thin, narrow boning i used from Wissner for my red 
taffeta stays.
This is only 4 mm. wide. Would that be something you could use for a 
crinoline cage? You would have to make many hoops for this, but it surely 
would give it flexibility.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 3:15 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings 
query


> Farthingale's has "crin steel" a "Thread Covered Hoop Steel", I've
> never tried it but it looks much like what is in original cage hoops,
> don't know about the weight/stiffness.  I've wanted to try it for a
> cage hoop or bustle if my budget ever allows.
>
> http://www.farthingales.on.ca/hoopsteel.php
>
> Text from their website:
>
> Hoop Steel/Crin Steel/Tutu Steel
>
> "We have several weights of hoop steel and you will likely be able to
> find one to suit your purpose. One style is "thread covered", it can
> be bent but not easily, comes in 3 widths and two colours; the
> narrowest is known as tutu steel as it is used in tutus for partner
> work. The second type of steel is "plastic coated" and this comes in
> varying widths and weights. Both require tin snips to cut."
>
> Greengerg and Hammer sells bons casing to fit 1/4" and 1/2 inch bones,
> this could alaso be used to construct a cage hoop or bustle.  And it's
> cotton.  I also use this for corset bone casings.
>
> http://www.greenberg-hammer.com/store.asp?ItemID=1340
>
> Katy
>
> On 2/5/06, Sharon at Collierfam.com <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote:
>> I'm not sure if it would work, but can you try using the steel in 
>> measuring
>> tapes? If it's the right kind, you could maybe get it from the 
>> manufacturer.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
>> Behalf Of Debloughcostumes@aol.com
>> Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 8:39 AM
>> To: h-costume@indra.com
>> Subject: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query
>>
>>
>> I'd do it the way Suzi suggests too.
>>
>> I've never managed to find the "watch spring" that the originals were 
>> made
>> from, and am no longer sure if it's made in large quantities any more
>> (though if
>> anybody knows otherwise, do let me know!)
>>
>> Though last time I used the narrowest flat steel I could find, and 
>> encased
>> it
>> in bone casing that I had, and ordinary cotton twill tape for the 
>> verticals,
>>
>> and I hand stitched the hoops in at the intersections, through the casing
>> and
>> the tape.  I also made the flounce at the bottom separately and attached 
>> it
>> using buttons at regular intervals, so it could be removed for washing 
>> (it
>> was
>> for a wedding dress to later be used for re-enactment and so likely to be
>> dragged around a muddy field).
>>
>> Would like to do the 'uber-authenitc' type, but it's one of the many 
>> things
>> on my list that I want to make for fun (rather than for customers), that 
>> I
>> never seem to find the time for :-(
>>
>> Debs
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
> --
> Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
> vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
>     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
>      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Sun, 05 Feb 2006 17:21:47 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Magna Carta Clause 35
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At 17:08 05/02/2006, you wrote:
>In my translation anyway it says...
>
>   Clause 35. Let there be one measure......, and one width of cloth 
> whether dyed, russet or halberjet, namely two ells within the selvedges.
>
>   Dyed I understand.
>
>   Russet? Somehow I don't think this refers to red cloth.
>
>   And does anyone know what halberjet is?
>
>   These are the only definitions I got when I googled.
>
>   Russet- a coarse, home-spun cloth much used by the peasantry.

And for livery in Tudor times

>   Halberjet- probably a superior type of cloth.

Sorry, this one passes me by.

>   Ell- a standard measure of length said to have been based on the 
> length of the right arm of king Henry 1.

An ell is (AFAIK) a yard and a quarter, that is 45". (I think there 
is something in Shakespeare about it, possibly in "Comedy of Errors", 
but memory fades with my hair)! (2 ells = 90" - that's a very wide 
width of cloth?)
>
>   Annette M
>
>



>Suzi


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Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 14:03:15 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query
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> i was thinking about the thin, narrow boning i used from Wissner for my
> red taffeta stays.  This is only 4 mm. wide. Would that be something you
> could use for a crinoline cage? You would have to make many hoops
> for this, but it surely would give it flexibility.

     I think Wissner does make a product of a weight that is good for
hoops.  It's thicker than the corset weight.

     -Carol

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Date: Sun, 05 Feb 2006 19:13:27 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query
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At 19:03 05/02/2006, you wrote:
> > i was thinking about the thin, narrow boning i used from Wissner for my
> > red taffeta stays.  This is only 4 mm. wide. Would that be something you
> > could use for a crinoline cage? You would have to make many hoops
> > for this, but it surely would give it flexibility.
>
>      I think Wissner does make a product of a weight that is good for
>hoops.  It's thicker than the corset weight.
>
>      -Carol


The crinoline steel I use is like the stuff they sell at 
Farthingales, and is specifically made for hoops. The cotton covered 
sort, (we have three widths and I use the medium width) will take 
heavy petticoats and skirts and is flexible without collapsing, and 
does not de-form even when you pack it tightly in a suitcase (for 
using in lectures.)

Maybe I've missed the point here, but if the covered steel is what 
was used, on some crinolines, originally, is there any reason to look 
for anything else? I have photos, as I am sure so do other people, of 
cotton covered crinolines in museums, which is why I use that. If you 
use bare steel, you cannot get the original 19th century connectors, 
unless you have them made specially, so it would be a problem to copy 
exactly anyway.

Suzi (rather puzzled)


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: hoop steel...
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At 7:57 AM -0700 2/5/06, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>I've never managed to find the "watch spring" that the originals were made
>from, and am no longer sure if it's made in large quantities any more
>(though if
>anybody knows otherwise, do let me know!)
>
>Though last time I used the narrowest flat steel I could find, and encased
>it
>in bone casing that I had, and ordinary cotton twill tape for the verticals,

Hi
We got some stuff that acted like the old caged hoop I have in an 
airplane/RC hobbiest shop. It was a short (3') length--but was spring 
steel. My DH needed to make a new spring for and old box camera. The 
stuff came in a variety of gauges. I bet you could get it in longer 
lengths from the mill.
Ta
Carol
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 14:54:44 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query
From: aquazoo@patriot.net
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> Maybe I've missed the point here, but if the covered steel is what
> was used, on some crinolines, originally, is there any reason to look
> for anything else?

     It may be a matter of availability, depending on where someone lives,
import taxes, etc.  Also when the question was asked originally,
perhaps the poster did not know the "real thing" is available.

     -Carol

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Date: Sun, 05 Feb 2006 14:02:47 -0600
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query
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Status: RO

I haven't been following this thread, but this sounds very similar to what 
is known as "fish tape" used by electricians to "fish" (pull) a wire 
through a conduit (tubing). These are rolls of spring wire (flat with 
rounded edges) that come in a case with reel in 5'0', 100' & 200' lengths. 
Lightweight 50' rolls available quite inexpensively from tool places like 
Harbor Freight. The heavier professional ones are more expensive. They 
occasionally break under the load than an electrician puts on them.. you 
might find a friendly electrician who'll give you one that has (how I got 
mine).

Beth

>Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 23:00:19 -0800
>From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
>Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and
>         casings query
>I'm not sure if it would work, but can you try using the steel in measuring
>tapes? If it's the right kind, you could maybe get it from the manufacturer.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
>Behalf Of Debloughcostumes@aol.com
>I'd do it the way Suzi suggests too.
>
>I've never managed to find the "watch spring" that the originals were made
>from, and am no longer sure if it's made in large quantities any more
>(though if
>anybody knows otherwise, do let me know!)
>
>Though last time I used the narrowest flat steel I could find, and encased
>it
>in bone casing that I had, and ordinary cotton twill tape for the verticals,
>
>and I hand stitched the hoops in at the intersections, through the casing
>and
>the tape.  I also made the flounce at the bottom separately and attached it
>using buttons at regular intervals, so it could be removed for washing (it
>was
>for a wedding dress to later be used for re-enactment and so likely to be
>dragged around a muddy field).
>
>Would like to do the 'uber-authenitc' type, but it's one of the many things
>on my list that I want to make for fun (rather than for customers), that I
>never seem to find the time for :-(
>
>Debs

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Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 14:38:13 -0600 (CST)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Magna Carta Clause 35
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On Sun, 5 Feb 2006, Suzi Clarke wrote:

> At 17:08 05/02/2006, you wrote:
> >In my translation anyway it says...
> >
> >   Clause 35. Let there be one measure......, and one width of cloth 
> > whether dyed, russet or halberjet, namely two ells within the selvedges.
> >
> >   Dyed I understand.
> >
> >   Russet? Somehow I don't think this refers to red cloth.

Russet, in this period, means an undyed cloth from black-sheep wool, so
usually brown or grey. The color meaning came much later. I can dig out
lengthy discussion of this from past posts if anyone needs it.

I have a distant memory of a discussion of "hauberject" or a similar word,
on this list, years ago, and remember nothing of value and cannot find it
in my notes.

> An ell is (AFAIK) a yard and a quarter, that is 45". (I think there 
> is something in Shakespeare about it, possibly in "Comedy of Errors", 
> but memory fades with my hair)! (2 ells = 90" - that's a very wide 
> width of cloth?)

Ells vary from one time/place to another, and typically were less than a
yard. Better minds than I have written copious amounts of information on
ell lengths. In a paper I happen to have on my desk this moment about
French textiles from the late 1200s, I see a reference that says 840
Flemish ells equals about 679 Champagne ells equals 640 modern yards -- so
lots of variation here. The author cites her source as John Munro's
article on "Textile Technology," in The Dictionary of the Middle Ages, ed.
Joseph R. Strayer (New York: Scribner, 1988), vol. 11, p. 704. Munro has
done a great deal with textile economics, and probably has quite a number
of discussions of ells in various places and times.

--Robin


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Status: RO

Thank you. I'll give it a try.

Beth

At 08:57 AM 2/5/2006, you wrote:
>Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 09:53:38 +0000
>From: Caroline <carolineebuckley@gmail.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oseberg textiles
>
>I know vol 4 was never published.  If it is going to be published only Oslo
>University would know.  I recently got some unpublished text from Perth (I
>still had to pay - and I cannot publish it) on medieval textiles excavated
>in the  80's.
>
>The text for Osbergfundet 4 may also be available in this form.  Write to
>them and ask.

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	Sun, 05 Feb 2006 16:21:21 EST
Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 16:21:21 -0500 (EST)
From: Susan Carroll-Clark <nicolaa@rogers.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Archaeological citation
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Greetings--

I'm working on a group research project with several
other folks, and we're trying to track down a more
in-depth citation for some information.

It's from the following book:
Weinstein, Rosemary.  "Tudor London."  London:  Museum
of London, 1994
ISBN:  0-11-290495-5

The book says this find came from a swampy area in
London--Moorfield, just north of the city wall.

The find consisted of:
a leather ankle boot
child's choe
knitted woollen cap
silk smocking on a woollen cloth (looks like a sleeve
to me)
coarse woollen sleeve
child's sock
c. 1530-90

The book doesn't cite any publication info for the
find.  Anyone got any ideas where we might find it?

Susan

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	Sun, 05 Feb 2006 21:23:58 GMT
Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 21:23:58 +0000 (GMT)
From: katherine sanders <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Thanks for all the help - 

Suzi - thanks for the link to your site: that
crinoline is certainly the shape and style I am going
for and if you've not had any quibbles from museums,
there's no reason why I should from general M.o.t.Ps

Deb, 
I didn't see your reply before it was included in a
message so my digest is still skipping but yes, I
think I'll go with Suzi's suggestion initially. I
found some 'roman blind' tape which would do the job
so I just need to check it will take the width of
steel - I may order narrower steel so it can be
enclosed in a tape (at least that way the ends will
look neater).  I found some rather coarse red twill
tape which looks like a narrow version of the stuff
used on this crinoline
http://www.vam.ac.uk/images/image/11182-popup.html

The measuring tape steel is (over here in the UK) too
wide and does that weird and painful crinkling thing
when I try and measure stuff... not sure I want it
near my legs, drawers or not! I think the piano cables
are about the right size but I'll have to talk to a
friend who owns one first.

Thanks for the Farthingales link - their 'tutu steel'
looks very like what I think the originals were - I'm
happy to be proved wrong but I can't find any pictures
as close as they need to be to be sure.
http://www.farthingales.on.ca/hoopsteel.php

I'll check out their overseas ordering policy if I
can't find a ballet wholesale supplier over here who
can help. We've got a ballet company in Glasgow who
may give me a name, if I ask really nice :-)

Thanks again - I'll be sure to post a link to a photo
when it's done!

Yours gratefully,
Katherine



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Hello! Could someone please send me the digest 107? I
can't find it in my in-box and Im worried I missed a
message for me.
Ta very much!

Katherine


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] h-cost digest 107
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On Sun, 5 Feb 2006, katherine sanders wrote:

> Hello! Could someone please send me the digest 107? I
> can't find it in my in-box and Im worried I missed a
> message for me.

Try checking recent messages at these sites:

http://www.mail-archive.com/h-costume@mail.indra.com/maillist.html

http://news.gmane.org/gmane.culture.studies.history.costume

--Robin

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and
In-Reply-To: <20060205212358.10691.qmail@web25715.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
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At 21:23 05/02/2006, you wrote:
>Thanks for all the help -
>
>Suzi - thanks for the link to your site: that
>crinoline is certainly the shape and style I am going
>for and if you've not had any quibbles from museums,
>there's no reason why I should from general M.o.t.Ps

Katherine

Talk to the people at the address I gave you - you will find they do 
different widths of crinoline steel, and strong twill tape. (E-mail 
me for my phone number and I can talk you through it if you want - I 
make hoops of all shapes and sizes all the time.)


>Deb,
>I didn't see your reply before it was included in a
>message so my digest is still skipping but yes, I
>think I'll go with Suzi's suggestion initially. I
>found some 'roman blind' tape which would do the job
>so I just need to check it will take the width of
>steel - I may order narrower steel so it can be
>enclosed in a tape (at least that way the ends will
>look neater).  I found some rather coarse red twill
>tape which looks like a narrow version of the stuff
>used on this crinoline
>http://www.vam.ac.uk/images/image/11182-popup.html
>
>The measuring tape steel is (over here in the UK) too
>wide and does that weird and painful crinkling thing
>when I try and measure stuff... not sure I want it
>near my legs, drawers or not! I think the piano cables
>are about the right size but I'll have to talk to a
>friend who owns one first.
>
>Thanks for the Farthingales link - their 'tutu steel'
>looks very like what I think the originals were - I'm
>happy to be proved wrong but I can't find any pictures
>as close as they need to be to be sure.
>http://www.farthingales.on.ca/hoopsteel.php
>
>I'll check out their overseas ordering policy if I
>can't find a ballet wholesale supplier over here who
>can help. We've got a ballet company in Glasgow who
>may give me a name, if I ask really nice :-)
>
>Thanks again - I'll be sure to post a link to a photo
>when it's done!
>
>Yours gratefully,
>Katherine
>
>
>
>"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will
>annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright
>
>
>
>___________________________________________________________
>NEW Yahoo! Cars - sell your car and browse thousands of new and used 
>cars online! http://uk.cars.yahoo.com/
>_______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Archaeological citation
In-Reply-To: <20060205212121.59026.qmail@web88208.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
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At 21:21 05/02/2006, you wrote:
>Greetings--
>
>I'm working on a group research project with several
>other folks, and we're trying to track down a more
>in-depth citation for some information.
>
>It's from the following book:
>Weinstein, Rosemary.  "Tudor London."  London:  Museum
>of London, 1994
>ISBN:  0-11-290495-5
>
>The book says this find came from a swampy area in
>London--Moorfield, just north of the city wall.
>
>The find consisted of:
>a leather ankle boot
>child's choe
>knitted woollen cap
>silk smocking on a woollen cloth (looks like a sleeve
>to me)
>coarse woollen sleeve
>child's sock
>c. 1530-90
>
>The book doesn't cite any publication info for the
>find.  Anyone got any ideas where we might find it?


I suggest you contact the Museum itself

Department of Early London History and Collections
Museum of London
150 London Wall
London. EC2Y 5HN
Tel: 020 7814 5732
Fax: 020 7600 1058

www.museumoflondon.org.uk

Suzi



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From: "Kelly Grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1930's factory wear/Urinetown
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What is this...the year for depression era Urinetown???We're doing the same 
sho for the final one of the season...we'll get the scetches next week!
Kelly


"Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced 
with danger.  To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, 
then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears"
Caius Merlyn Britannicus





>From: "Cabbage Rose Costumes" <cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1930's factory wear
>Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 19:09:30 -0800
>
>Can anyone on the list point me to a source for period uniforms for the 
>depression era?  Or perhaps even abroad in the 1930s.  I am doing a 
>production of Urinetown, and we are going for a thirties depression era 
>feel, although the show is not actually set in any time period.  (It's 
>actually the future, I believe).
>
>I did a few cursory net searches without much luck, but thought perhaps 
>someone already had some sourcing and could save me some time for my 
>inspiration.
>
>As always, thanks in advance.
>
>angela
>+++++
>Angela F. Lazear
>Cabbage Rose Costumes
>www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
>Theatrical Costume Design
>
>"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
>be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
>and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
>be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
>W. Shakespeare
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and
Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 19:44:01 -0500
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Status: RO

This is the kind of tape that I have used very successfully for making cage
hoops.  Good luck with your project.  The tape sure beats having to make
riders of other tape or thread overlays and the fact that it is uniform in
its pockets gives a more professional construction that will stand the
motion of the cage and the garments that  will be supported.

Kathleen


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "katherine sanders" <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 4:23 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and


> Thanks for all the help -
>
> Suzi - thanks for the link to your site: that
> crinoline is certainly the shape and style I am going
> for and if you've not had any quibbles from museums,
> there's no reason why I should from general M.o.t.Ps
>
> Deb,
> I didn't see your reply before it was included in a
> message so my digest is still skipping but yes, I
> think I'll go with Suzi's suggestion initially. I
> found some 'roman blind' tape which would do the job
> so I just need to check it will take the width of
> steel - I may order narrower steel so it can be
> enclosed in a tape (at least that way the ends will
> look neater).  I found some rather coarse red twill
> tape which looks like a narrow version of the stuff
> used on this crinoline
> http://www.vam.ac.uk/images/image/11182-popup.html
>
> The measuring tape steel is (over here in the UK) too
> wide and does that weird and painful crinkling thing
> when I try and measure stuff... not sure I want it
> near my legs, drawers or not! I think the piano cables
> are about the right size but I'll have to talk to a
> friend who owns one first.
>
> Thanks for the Farthingales link - their 'tutu steel'
> looks very like what I think the originals were - I'm
> happy to be proved wrong but I can't find any pictures
> as close as they need to be to be sure.
> http://www.farthingales.on.ca/hoopsteel.php
>
> I'll check out their overseas ordering policy if I
> can't find a ballet wholesale supplier over here who
> can help. We've got a ballet company in Glasgow who
> may give me a name, if I ask really nice :-)
>
> Thanks again - I'll be sure to post a link to a photo
> when it's done!
>
> Yours gratefully,
> Katherine
>
>
>
> "A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will
> annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright
>
>
>
> ___________________________________________________________
> NEW Yahoo! Cars - sell your car and browse thousands of new and used cars
online! http://uk.cars.yahoo.com/
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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--- Katy Bishop <katybishop64@gmail.com> wrote:

> Farthingale's has "crin steel" a "Thread Covered
> Hoop Steel", I've
> never tried it but it looks much like what is in
> original cage hoops,
> don't know about the weight/stiffness.  I've wanted
> to try it for a
> cage hoop or bustle if my budget ever allows.
> 
> http://www.farthingales.on.ca/hoopsteel.php
> --
> Katy Bishop

You will certainly get good service if/when you do
order from her, even with the border crossing to cause
problems.  She is also fascinated by what creations
her clients come up with.

Ann in CT

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Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 18:48:31 -0800
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Subject: [h-cost] Blocking a Wool Felt Hat
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I'm going to try and make a Tudor Style tall hat with the pleated crown.  I
went to the local GoodWill and they had a hat that fitted perfectly of 100%
wool felt. Problem is that it is a domed crown rather than square.  Is there
a way to steam that crown and get it fairly fat?

I intend to play with an thick interlining that I have to get the brim
shape, then I'll cut the actual hat brim.

Does this sound reasonable, or does it sound like it will be more work than
simply creating the under-structure out the interfacing and paper and going
from there?


Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
Never attribute to malice what can as easily
be attributed to simple social ineptness


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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] pants
Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 22:39:45 -0800
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Pants... You mean bloomers like they might have worn bicycling or underwear
type pants?

Wanda

> -----Orig
>
>
> Does anybody have a pattern for 19th century women's pants? Thanks
>
>


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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and
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<--- katherine sanders <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
<
<Thanks for the Farthingales link - their 'tutu steel'
<looks very like what I think the originals were - I'm
<happy to be proved wrong but I can't find any pictures
<as close as they need to be to be sure.
<http://www.farthingales.on.ca/hoopsteel.php
<
<I'll check out their overseas ordering policy if I
<can't find a ballet wholesale supplier over here who
<can help. We've got a ballet company in Glasgow who
<may give me a name, if I ask really nice :-)
<
<Thanks again - I'll be sure to post a link to a photo
<when it's done!
<
<Yours gratefully,
<Katherine

Farthingales has NO problem with shipping things to overseas customers.

I bought an entire roll ( 100m ) of this: Plastic Coated Hoop Steel/Crin Steel 50-8406-06  from them about 5 years ago, with no problems. I did make the order over the phone, though, because of the weight and international postage/shipping issue. 

Very helpful people.

Joannah

*Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty.*


		


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Subject: [h-cost] mending techniques
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Hello,
I would be very gratefull for advice as to how to sort out my 1670 midwives 
clothing which I've just retrieved from storage to discover a fair bit of 
moth damage. The whole set, boddice, and two pleated skirts all wool lined 
with linen ,the design based on Vermeer's mikmaid has to be remade anyway as 
I've dropped from english size 20 to a 10. Re-making the kit is no problem 
but how should I repair the moth holes? I can darn and patch.I have lovely 
woolen yarn in a matching colour for darning and also scraps of the cloth 
for patching. Should I use a mix of darns and patches? I'm hoping to make 
the repairs part of the costume part of my presentation. My character is a 
respectable midwife, licesnsed by the Bishop, well repected etc etc but not 
hugely wealthy.Any ideas gratefully recieved.
Not downhearted about this as the kit is beggining to look like real 
clothing as oppossed to a costume, and making kit smaller is easier than 
making it bigger.
sorry about my speelling mistakes.

regards
Joy 

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blocking a Wool Felt Hat
Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 09:23:11 -0400
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If you have a wool hat, it's incredibly easy to steam it to the shape you 
want!  You need to find something that will be a good shape for a block, 
like a flower pot. Make sure it's a good size to match your head size. 
Remove all the addition hat stuff from inside the felt, like the hat band 
and such.  Then using you kettle, steam the inside of the felt and then pull 
it down over the block. Keep trying until you get the desired shape.  the 
felt will move around quite a bit!

Have fun!
Kelly in Nova Scotia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 10:48 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Blocking a Wool Felt Hat


> I'm going to try and make a Tudor Style tall hat with the pleated crown. 
> I
> went to the local GoodWill and they had a hat that fitted perfectly of 
> 100%
> wool felt. Problem is that it is a domed crown rather than square.  Is 
> there
> a way to steam that crown and get it fairly fat?
>
> I intend to play with an thick interlining that I have to get the brim
> shape, then I'll cut the actual hat brim.
>
> Does this sound reasonable, or does it sound like it will be more work 
> than
> simply creating the under-structure out the interfacing and paper and 
> going
> from there?
>
>
> Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
> Never attribute to malice what can as easily
> be attributed to simple social ineptness
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] mending techniques
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Status: RO

Very cool about the moths! my friend Griet would love to have had that 
happen to her clothing!

I could see a mixture of repair styles done, as long as then were done 
cleanly, to the best of you ability.  Mended clothes were a good think, as 
they were so expensive in the first place, not at all like today.  Even just 
a few decades ago, a little thing like a hole in your tuxedo jacket went to 
the menders to be darned or rewoven.

They would take a piece of matching cloth and fray the four edges so that 
you had a solid piece in the centre that was the size of the hole, and 
frayed thread ends to weave back into the cloth.
Therese de Dillmont's book on hand work shows great examples of how to do 
this kind of mending. I can't exactly remember the title of the book, and 
it's at home...sorry.

BTW, can I send you a riding habit to hang out in your attic for a 
while???;->

Kelly in Nova Scotia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joy Shillaker" <joy@c17th.org>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 8:27 AM
Subject: [h-cost] mending techniques


> Hello,
> I would be very gratefull for advice as to how to sort out my 1670 
> midwives clothing which I've just retrieved from storage to discover a 
> fair bit of moth damage. The whole set, boddice, and two pleated skirts 
> all wool lined with linen ,the design based on Vermeer's mikmaid has to be 
> remade anyway as I've dropped from english size 20 to a 10. Re-making the 
> kit is no problem but how should I repair the moth holes? I can darn and 
> patch.I have lovely woolen yarn in a matching colour for darning and also 
> scraps of the cloth for patching. Should I use a mix of darns and patches? 
> I'm hoping to make the repairs part of the costume part of my 
> presentation. My character is a respectable midwife, licesnsed by the 
> Bishop, well repected etc etc but not hugely wealthy.Any ideas gratefully 
> recieved.
> Not downhearted about this as the kit is beggining to look like real 
> clothing as oppossed to a costume, and making kit smaller is easier than 
> making it bigger.
> sorry about my speelling mistakes.
>
> regards
> Joy
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] mending techniques
Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 08:51:37 -0500
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Status: RO

I would lean toward mending and leave patches for tears.  If you are
'respectable', I think you would not advertise that you are also dirt poor.
Somehow, I think illustrators of children's books have contributed to our
concepts of how people of the past dealt with worn clothing.  I find mending
to be the proper way and patches, a quick fix.  It is akin to using
safteypins in place of lost buttons.

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joy Shillaker" <joy@c17th.org>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 7:27 AM
Subject: [h-cost] mending techniques


> Hello,
> I would be very gratefull for advice as to how to sort out my 1670
midwives
> clothing which I've just retrieved from storage to discover a fair bit of
> moth damage. The whole set, boddice, and two pleated skirts all wool lined
> with linen ,the design based on Vermeer's mikmaid has to be remade anyway
as
> I've dropped from english size 20 to a 10. Re-making the kit is no problem
> but how should I repair the moth holes? I can darn and patch.I have lovely
> woolen yarn in a matching colour for darning and also scraps of the cloth
> for patching. Should I use a mix of darns and patches? I'm hoping to make
> the repairs part of the costume part of my presentation. My character is a
> respectable midwife, licesnsed by the Bishop, well repected etc etc but
not
> hugely wealthy.Any ideas gratefully recieved.
> Not downhearted about this as the kit is beggining to look like real
> clothing as oppossed to a costume, and making kit smaller is easier than
> making it bigger.
> sorry about my speelling mistakes.
>
> regards
> Joy
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

_______________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 06 Feb 2006 06:00:17 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] mending techniques
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At 04:27 AM 2/6/2006, you wrote:
>Hello,
>I would be very gratefull for advice as to how to sort out my 1670 
>midwives clothing which I've just retrieved from storage to discover 
>a fair bit of moth damage. The whole set, boddice, and two pleated 
>skirts all wool lined with linen ,the design based on Vermeer's 
>mikmaid has to be remade anyway as I've dropped from english size 20 
>to a 10. Re-making the kit is no problem but how should I repair the 
>moth holes? I can darn and patch.I have lovely woolen yarn in a 
>matching colour for darning and also scraps of the cloth for 
>patching. Should I use a mix of darns and patches? I'm hoping to 
>make the repairs part of the costume part of my presentation. My 
>character is a respectable midwife, licesnsed by the Bishop, well 
>repected etc etc but not hugely wealthy.Any ideas gratefully recieved.
>Not downhearted about this as the kit is beggining to look like real 
>clothing as oppossed to a costume, and making kit smaller is easier 
>than making it bigger.
>sorry about my speelling mistakes.
>
>regards
>Joy

I would recommend that any holes above 1/2-inch or so should be 
patched.  Anything smaller could be darned fairly easily.  And it 
goes without saying that you would make the repairs as unobtrusive as 
possible (which will be much easier than patching a cotton print 
dress since there is no matching of patterns to worry about, just 
matching the grain).  Congratulations on your weight loss.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Magna Carta Clause 35
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On Sun, 5 Feb 2006, Robin Netherton wrote:
> I have a distant memory of a discussion of "hauberject" or a similar word,
> on this list, years ago, and remember nothing of value and cannot find it
> in my notes.

Yes, I have one post saved from 2004. I couldn't find anything in any of
the archives when searching for the word, but with the poster info I
found it:
http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/Fashion/index.cgi?l=hcos04&s=agnes%20gawne&Cmd=Match+6

I'm not sure if there was anything else in that discussion, but with the
date as a starting point it should be possible to find out. :)

Ingrid

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Feb  6 09:49:17 2006
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Magna Carta Clause 35
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On Mon, 6 Feb 2006, [iso-8859-1] Ingrid G. Storrø wrote:

> On Sun, 5 Feb 2006, Robin Netherton wrote:
> > I have a distant memory of a discussion of "hauberject" or a similar word,
> > on this list, years ago, and remember nothing of value and cannot find it
> > in my notes.
> 
> Yes, I have one post saved from 2004. I couldn't find anything in any of
> the archives when searching for the word, but with the poster info I
> found it:
> http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/Fashion/index.cgi?l=hcos04&s=agnes%20gawne&Cmd=Match+6
> 
> I'm not sure if there was anything else in that discussion, but with the
> date as a starting point it should be possible to find out. :)

Yes indeed -- there are 15 posts with the subject line "Definition of
HABERJECT" (though the first three appear to be unintentional repeats).
You can find them starting with this search:

http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/Fashion/index.cgi?FirstItem=0&s=Definition+of+HABERJECT&l=hcos04

Or just go to the main search form and put in that subject line or the
word HABERJECT, and the year 2004:

http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion/archives/

All the hits will lead you to the same compilation file of one month's
of posts, so you'll find the entire thread included here:

http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion/archives/hcos04/hcos03.cl

The thread starts March 16. It's worth reading the whole thing, as I think
the Spanish translation is a blind alley.

That was exactly the right clue, Ingrid! And I did remember a mixup with
that term and "habergeon."

--Robin



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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 16:44:11 +0100
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Subject: [h-cost] embroidery threads on habits francaises
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Hi again,
This is just a question i have for some of the members who makes or study
18th century embroideries.
I have noticed that most of the french habits, are embroidered with 2 kinds
of silk thread. The monofillament silk (reeled untwisted silk) for the
motifs, and then that the stripes wich are made as borders are embroidered
with a twisted silk. This makes sence to me, as the borders will be mostly
worned out, and therefore have to be made with a stronger thread.
Has any of you noticed this?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Hi,
Sorry about this but i wondered if any europeans have ordered from him, Jas 
Townsend. How fast does he ship to Europe.
Do you think i could order some stockings and have them here in cirka 14 
days?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] about jas townsend
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Status: RO

I don't know how fast he can get things to Europe, but I have dealt with
them by US mail and in person for many years. They carry good quality
products and the management is extremely involved. I know they will make
every effort to get your order to you as quickly as possible. 


Karen
Seamstrix



On Mon, 6 Feb 2006 16:48:35 +0100 "Bjarne og Leif Drews"
<drewscph@post12.tele.dk> writes:
> Hi,
> Sorry about this but i wondered if any europeans have ordered from 
> him, Jas 
> Townsend. How fast does he ship to Europe.
> Do you think i could order some stockings and have them here in 
> cirka 14 
> days?
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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From: ruthanneb@mindspring.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] about jas townsend
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Hi, Bjarne. I'm not in Europe, but I've ordered from Jas Townsend in the past, particularly stockings and hat blanks. I ordered by telephone and found the company very helpful and accommodating. I also had a short deadline for the stockings etc., and they made my deadline easily. You'd probably have to pay extra shipping costs, but if they say they can meet your deadline I believe they will. You should phone them if possible, though, so you can talk to a person and discuss your needs.

Of course I can't say if my experience is typical, but I can attest to their excellent service in that one experience.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
>From: Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>Sent: Feb 6, 2006 10:48 AM
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] about jas townsend
>
>Hi,
>Sorry about this but i wondered if any europeans have ordered from him, Jas 
>Townsend. How fast does he ship to Europe.
>Do you think i could order some stockings and have them here in cirka 14 
>days?
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] about jas townsend
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Status: RO

Hi Ruth and Anne,
Thanks. Well yes, they promise to send quicly, ill pay 12 dollars for the 
posting, and then i could get it soon.
I needed stockings, and i found some other goodies two.
Thanks, and forgive me that i used the bandwidth for this.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 5:12 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] about jas townsend


> Hi, Bjarne. I'm not in Europe, but I've ordered from Jas Townsend in the 
> past, particularly stockings and hat blanks. I ordered by telephone and 
> found the company very helpful and accommodating. I also had a short 
> deadline for the stockings etc., and they made my deadline easily. You'd 
> probably have to pay extra shipping costs, but if they say they can meet 
> your deadline I believe they will. You should phone them if possible, 
> though, so you can talk to a person and discuss your needs.
>
> Of course I can't say if my experience is typical, but I can attest to 
> their excellent service in that one experience.
>
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>
> -----Original Message-----
>>From: Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>>Sent: Feb 6, 2006 10:48 AM
>>To: h-costume@indra.com
>>Subject: [h-cost] about jas townsend
>>
>>Hi,
>>Sorry about this but i wondered if any europeans have ordered from him, 
>>Jas
>>Townsend. How fast does he ship to Europe.
>>Do you think i could order some stockings and have them here in cirka 14
>>days?
>>
>>Bjarne
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>>
>>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


_______________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 06 Feb 2006 16:34:26 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery threads on habits francaises
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Status: RO

At 15:44 06/02/2006, you wrote:

>Hi again,
>This is just a question i have for some of the members who makes or study
>18th century embroideries.
>I have noticed that most of the french habits, are embroidered with 2 kinds
>of silk thread. The monofillament silk (reeled untwisted silk) for the
>motifs, and then that the stripes wich are made as borders are embroidered
>with a twisted silk. This makes sence to me, as the borders will be mostly
>worned out, and therefore have to be made with a stronger thread.
>Has any of you noticed this?
>
>Bjarne


My waistcoat fragment, from about 1780, is embroidered with what I 
think is tambour stitching with a twisted thread, in pink and green 
mainly. If you go to my fotopic site 
http://suziclarke4384.fotopic.net/c382113.html it forms the 
background for my fashion plates, and you can see it in some detail.

Suzi


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:stockings for 18th century
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Bjarne

You could try Funn Stockings here in England.

http://www.kellysearch.co.uk/gb-company-300002851.html

Suzi


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From: "kelly grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <002001c62b34$ccd20ed0$7c83fea9@CPQ21932199711>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] about jas townsend
Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 12:50:32 -0400
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I might have a difficult time getting them here to Canada that fast. I would 
call them, or drop them a note to see if they could ship via a faster 
method.
Kelly in Nova Scotia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 11:48 AM
Subject: [h-cost] about jas townsend


> Hi,
> Sorry about this but i wondered if any europeans have ordered from him, 
> Jas Townsend. How fast does he ship to Europe.
> Do you think i could order some stockings and have them here in cirka 14 
> days?
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Feb  6 12:07:13 2006
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query
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In a message dated 2/5/2006 1:33:48 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

You  would have to make many hoops for this, but it surely 
would give it  flexibility.



The best "looking" and best moving hoop skirts are the cage ones [as  opposed 
to a "petticoat" ones] with lots of  hoops.
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Date: Mon, 06 Feb 2006 11:32:58 -0600
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From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Magna Carta Clause 35
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A quick search turned up an essay "A Scandinavian Hauberget?" by  M. 
Nockert in:
Cloth and Clothing in Medieval Europe: Essays in Memory of Professor E. M. 
Carus-Wilson, eds N.B. Harte and K.G. Ponting, 1983, Heinemann Educational 
Books Ltd, London. ISBN 0-435-32382-2.  pp 100-107.

In this she, describes it as a diamond (lozenge) 2/2 twill originally woven 
on warp-weighted looms...
and references Carus-Wilson "Haberget: A medieval textile conundrum" 
originally published in Medieval Archaeology, but I cannot remember which 
book of mine reprints this.

I remember the issue (and the related issue "pallia fresonica") discussed 
in other sources but they do not come to mind.

If memory serves, this term was later applied to a coarse woolen twill used 
by poorer people and monks.

Beth Matney

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Hi Suzi,
Yes i did know this, also because when you have to catch the thread with the 
needle, it has to be a strong thread, you can se the same in Costume in 
Detail.
I should have ben more specific, i ment those embroidered with long and 
short stitch and satin stitches. Many of these has a stripe in the border of 
the front wich is not a tape, but actually embroidered and i have noticed 
that this stripe is made with twisted threads, while all the other 
embroidery is made of untwisted thread. Some coats and waistcoats also has a 
"stripe" embroidered in a sertain pattern and these also are made from 
twisted threads. You see the same in buttons, usually many of these is 
having a stripe embroidered in the edge, a cirkle wich also has twisted 
thread, but the main motif in the middle of the button is made of untwisted 
thread.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 5:34 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidery threads on habits francaises


> At 15:44 06/02/2006, you wrote:
>
>>Hi again,
>>This is just a question i have for some of the members who makes or study
>>18th century embroideries.
>>I have noticed that most of the french habits, are embroidered with 2 
>>kinds
>>of silk thread. The monofillament silk (reeled untwisted silk) for the
>>motifs, and then that the stripes wich are made as borders are embroidered
>>with a twisted silk. This makes sence to me, as the borders will be mostly
>>worned out, and therefore have to be made with a stronger thread.
>>Has any of you noticed this?
>>
>>Bjarne
>
>
> My waistcoat fragment, from about 1780, is embroidered with what I think 
> is tambour stitching with a twisted thread, in pink and green mainly. If 
> you go to my fotopic site http://suziclarke4384.fotopic.net/c382113.html 
> it forms the background for my fashion plates, and you can see it in some 
> detail.
>
> Suzi
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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The Riversdale House Museum, 4811 Riverdale Road in Riverdale Park,  
Maryland, announces a lecture, March 7,  at 7:30, with light refreshments  served at 
6:30.  Cost is $5.
 
"The How and Why of Accurate Cut and Fit of 19th Century Men's and Women's  
Clothing"
 
Saundra Altman, creator of Past Patterns, and Ericka Mason, of Connor  
Prairie, share their experience gathered through many years of studying extant  
garments and working with living history interpreters.
 
Call 301-864-0420 for more information.
 
Ann Wass
Riversdale


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Subject: [h-cost] Re:mending techniques
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The Complete Encyclopedia of Needlework by Therese de Dillmont
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0762413182/sr=1-1/qid=1139260769/ref=sr_1_1/103-0624918-7671817?%5Fencoding=UTF8
 
http://tinyurl.com/8hthw
 
I just read the chapter on mending the other day! My completely unexpert opinion is that you would probably want to mend anything smaller than an inch or so and patch anything larger than that. 
 
Tea Rose
================================

Message: 8
Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 09:32:04 -0400
From: "kelly grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] mending techniques
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Very cool about the moths! my friend Griet would love to have had that 
happen to her clothing!

I could see a mixture of repair styles done, as long as then were done 
cleanly, to the best of you ability.  Mended clothes were a good think, as 
they were so expensive in the first place, not at all like today.  Even just 
a few decades ago, a little thing like a hole in your tuxedo jacket went to 
the menders to be darned or rewoven.

They would take a piece of matching cloth and fray the four edges so that 
you had a solid piece in the centre that was the size of the hole, and 
frayed thread ends to weave back into the cloth.
Therese de Dillmont's book on hand work shows great examples of how to do 
this kind of mending. I can't exactly remember the title of the book, and 
it's at home...sorry.

BTW, can I send you a riding habit to hang out in your attic for a 
while???;->

Kelly in Nova Scotia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joy Shillaker" <joy@c17th.org>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 8:27 AM
Subject: [h-cost] mending techniques
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Bjarne, 
 
Your Christmas present seemed to take about ten days to get from here to there, but that was regular first-class U.S. Mail. You could probably pay extra and have them ship it some other way.
 
Tea Rose
 
=================================================
 

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 16:48:35 +0100
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
Subject: [h-cost] about jas townsend
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Hi,
Sorry about this but i wondered if any europeans have ordered from him, Jas 
Townsend. How fast does he ship to Europe.
Do you think i could order some stockings and have them here in cirka 14 
days?

Bjarne
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Bjarne, could you put a cockade over the ends of your bobbin lace?
 
http://www.jastown.com/hats/th-905a.htm
 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cockade
 
 
Tea Rose
================================================================
 
 
Message: 2
Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 20:49:20 +0100
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
Subject: [h-cost] another question,
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <001d01c629c4$171e7a40$7c83fea9@CPQ21932199711>
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Sorry i keep you buisy. but i was thinking also about making the trimming 
for a tricorne. Make it in gold bobbin lace. I have some lovely thick gold 
gimp i could use.
Does any of you have any good ideas i could do with the ends of the bobbin 
lace. I cant sew away all the threads so i get an invisible joint. What 
could i place at the joint to hide it? A button? Would it be two much to 
make a looped lace flower?
Any idears would be greatfull apreciated!

Bjarne
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Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 15:49:49 -0800
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] the "Fram Oil Filter" hat & politics
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Cynthia V & other h-costumers:
Thought you might enjoy this pic forwarded to me from a friend.  It's
very much like the "Fram Air Filter" hat seen in a Rogier van der
Weyden's Madelena seen here:
http://pintoresfamosos.juegofanatico.cl/images/van_der_weyden/magdalena.jpg
Like the original sender, If find it amusing to compare the Madelena &
the local mayorial candidates politicians.
PS. for non-US folks, the "Fram" reference is to a car part formerly
made in the US.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

Hi guys...  I know I've had a discussion about a weird period hat with
some people, but I'm not sure which of you I've discussed it with
(maybe someone else...).  In any case, I thought you both might be
interested.  <snip>...  In today's Mercury News, there's a photo of
two guys sucking up to the  Vietnamese vote in San Jose, and they're
wearing "traditional Vietnamese garb" -- including hats that look a
_lot_ like the one I was mentioning above.  They're
out of some kind of brocade rather than the linen that the 15th c. one
looks like it's made of, but...  Here's a url for the story; the
picture is part way down on the left side:

http://www.mercurynews.com/mld/mercurynews/news/politics/elections/13802934.
htm

It just seemed to me that if one found out how the Vietnamese hats were
done it might offer some ideas for the 15th c. ones, too.

Hope this is of some use...  If anyone knows an address for Cynthia du
Pres Argent, she might be interested too.
--Matt

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Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 21:38:02 EST
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and 
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Sorry - completely forgot about farthingales (duh moment)  (again)

have used them in the past and were v good.

for anyone in the UK, this is one of my suppliers for corsetry stuff (can 
order online, which I prefer) http://www.venacavadesign.co.uk/

Debbie



In a message dated 2/6/06 3:46:26 PM GMT Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> >Thanks for the Farthingales link - their 'tutu steel'
> >looks very like what I think the originals were - I'm
> >happy to be proved wrong but I can't find any pictures
> >as close as they need to be to be sure.
> >http://www.farthingales.on.ca/hoopsteel.php
> >
> >I'll check out their overseas ordering policy if I
> >can't find a ballet wholesale supplier over here who
> >can help. We've got a ballet company in Glasgow who
> >may give me a name, if I ask really nice :-)
> >

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] about jas townsend
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Am in Europe (UK) and we've used them before - not for a few years, and we 
weren't in any hige hurry at the time, but they were very helpful (my boyfriend 
ordered by phone).

This may be too late, but I'd suggest phoning them to make sure they know 
you're in a hurry, and that way, they can tell you whether they can get them to 
you in time.

Debs


In a message dated 2/6/06 9:20:15 PM GMT Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 16:48:35 +0100
> From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> Subject: [h-cost] about jas townsend
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <002001c62b34$ccd20ed0$7c83fea9@CPQ21932199711>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>   reply-type=original
> 
> Hi,
> Sorry about this but i wondered if any europeans have ordered from him, Jas 
> Townsend. How fast does he ship to Europe.
> Do you think i could order some stockings and have them here in cirka 14 
> days?
> 
> Bjarne
> 

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Subject: [h-cost] V&A 'In the Round' images
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Hi all
I just discovered this

http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/round/index.html

on the V&A website: you basically get a 360 view of
selected outfits and a wonderful idea of the overall
shape and depth of the silhouettes. Hope you enjoy!

Bjarne - there is  very nice suit that reminded me of
some of your creations there, so I thought it might be
interesting to you too.

HTH

Katherine

"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright


		
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures? 
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Does anybody have pictures of genuine 17th century gloves they can 
share? I have checked out Ninya Mikhaila's great reproduction gloves, 
and found some by searching for "Glove Museum" and "Gloves in 
Museums", and also a great site by Francesca Havas. http://www.glove.org/

However, I am always looking for more research before starting a new 
job, so any help will be appreciated.

Suzi


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Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2006 09:33:29 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thank you! I am glad you found my site. :)

The gloves on the Worshipful glovers guild pages that are for James
the 1st are the ones you want to look for. There are also a pair of
Danish gloves that the link at the moment escapes me.

I am currently in training here on Wall Street (the subway ride was
so very cool!) and do not have access to my personal computer. It is
back at the hotel. I think the link is there on that computer and
will try to find it.

The Danish pair are fabulous! I will find the link for you somehow.

For now do a search for King James I gloves and that should pull up
a lot of really beautiful glove images for you. I really want to
make a few of those. They would be for non-sca purposes so no one
would really ever see them. :(

Chiara Francesca
glove maker :)


On Tue, February 7, 2006 9:13 am, Suzi Clarke said:
>
> Does anybody have pictures of genuine 17th century gloves they can
> share? I have checked out Ninya Mikhaila's great reproduction
> gloves,
> and found some by searching for "Glove Museum" and "Gloves in
> Museums", and also a great site by Francesca Havas.
> http://www.glove.org/
>
> However, I am always looking for more research before starting a new
> job, so any help will be appreciated.
>
> Suzi
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


Franchesca Havas
----------------------------------------

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> Hi everyone,
>   I've just come to a question about period fastenings - when 
> I'm making period costumes, I often never know what type of 
> fastening shall I use. F.ex. the petticoats - were they 
> fastened simply with a ribbon or a button or what? Does 
> anyone know any web page or book or simply anything that 
> could help me?


What period? I know one of my vintage 19cent petticoats is fastened with both a draw string and a button. The other two Victorian petticoats I have are fastened only with a draw string. 

I don't know of a general source that deals with the history of fastenings, but I wish/hope there is one...
	-sunny

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From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re:stockings for 18th century
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Are they in London?  I couldn't find any online catalog. If they  are local
we could pop in while I am there.  Anne


You could try Funn Stockings here in England.

http://www.kellysearch.co.uk/gb-company-300002851.html

Suzi



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I have seen my Grandmother darn holes that were 1 1/2" and once 2" but
usually it was easier for her to match thread then to match a patch to the
garment fabric, especially if it was a store bought garment.
Just a little trivia.
De

-----Original Message-----
I would recommend that any holes above 1/2-inch or so should be
patched.  Anything smaller could be darned fairly easily.  And it
goes without saying that you would make the repairs as unobtrusive as
possible (which will be much easier than patching a cotton print
dress since there is no matching of patterns to worry about, just
matching the grain).  Congratulations on your weight loss.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net


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Organization: Medieval Hats: http://www.virtue.to
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] the "Fram Oil Filter" hat & politics
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Cin wrote:

> wearing "traditional Vietnamese garb" -- including hats that look a
> _lot_ like the one I was mentioning above.  They're
> out of some kind of brocade rather than the linen that the 15th c. one
> looks like it's made of, but...  Here's a url for the story; the
> picture is part way down on the left side:
> 
> http://www.mercurynews.com/mld/mercurynews/news/politics/elections/13802934.
> htm

Hey, that's great!

I'd seen a hat not unlike this in a Smithsonian exhibit years ago -- it 
was brightly colored and black webbing (like an inkle loom band) wound 
around the head just like this.  I vaguely recall it was Peruvian, but I 
could easily be mistaken.

One of the interesting things about the Magdalen's hat is the motto on 
it; I don't think I've ever heard what it says, as it's barely legible 
in only a few reproductions.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

US postage with medieval images on it: 
http://www.cafepress.com/virtueventures/1160846
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] pants
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I mean the underwear type pants - wide and with lace, the rather shorter ones ( I've seen some with a below-knee length, but these eould be too long for me)
   
  Zuzana

Wanda Pease <wandap@hevanet.com> wrote:
  Pants... You mean bloomers like they might have worn bicycling or underwear
type pants?

Wanda

> -----Orig
>
>
> Does anybody have a pattern for 19th century women's pants? Thanks
>
>


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Subject: [h-cost] period fastenings
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Hi everyone,
  I've just come to a question about period fastenings - when I'm making period costumes, I often never know what type of fastening shall I use. F.ex. the petticoats - were they fastened simply with a ribbon or a button or what? Does anyone know any web page or book or simply anything that could help me?
   
  Thanks a lot
   
  Zuzana

			
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: tricorn decoration (was another question)
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Hi,
Well yes this was probably a good idea. Thanks for the idea.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <tearoses@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 10:32 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: tricorn decoration (was another question)


> Bjarne, could you put a cockade over the ends of your bobbin lace?
>
> http://www.jastown.com/hats/th-905a.htm
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cockade
>
>
> Tea Rose
> ================================================================
>
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 20:49:20 +0100
> From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> Subject: [h-cost] another question,
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <001d01c629c4$171e7a40$7c83fea9@CPQ21932199711>
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>    reply-type=original
>
> Sorry i keep you buisy. but i was thinking also about making the trimming
> for a tricorne. Make it in gold bobbin lace. I have some lovely thick gold
> gimp i could use.
> Does any of you have any good ideas i could do with the ends of the bobbin
> lace. I cant sew away all the threads so i get an invisible joint. What
> could i place at the joint to hide it? A button? Would it be two much to
> make a looped lace flower?
> Any idears would be greatfull apreciated!
>
> Bjarne
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Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2006 14:41:29 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] V&A 'In the Round' images
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At 14:36 07/02/2006, you wrote:
>Hi all
>I just discovered this
>
>http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/round/index.html
>
>on the V&A website: you basically get a 360 view of
>selected outfits and a wonderful idea of the overall
>shape and depth of the silhouettes. Hope you enjoy!
>
>Bjarne - there is  very nice suit that reminded me of
>some of your creations there, so I thought it might be
>interesting to you too.
>
>HTH
>
>Katherine
>
>"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will
>annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright


Great site - thanks Katherine!

Suzi


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References: <20060207143616.90299.qmail@web25706.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] V&A 'In the Round' images
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Hi Katherine,
Yes i discovered this yesterday, and it is lovely to see the costumes all 
way round. I also discovered that my computer suddently is able to se the 
french website that uses flash. It must be because the computer has updated 
itself! You do get some surprises some times........

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "katherine sanders" <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 3:36 PM
Subject: [h-cost] V&A 'In the Round' images


> Hi all
> I just discovered this
>
> http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/round/index.html
>
> on the V&A website: you basically get a 360 view of
> selected outfits and a wonderful idea of the overall
> shape and depth of the silhouettes. Hope you enjoy!
>
> Bjarne - there is  very nice suit that reminded me of
> some of your creations there, so I thought it might be
> interesting to you too.
>
> HTH
>
> Katherine
>
> "A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will
> annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright
>
>
>
> ___________________________________________________________
> To help you stay safe and secure online, we've developed the all new 
> Yahoo! Security Centre. http://uk.security.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2006 08:12:37 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] period fastenings
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At 03:21 AM 2/7/2006, you wrote:
>Hi everyone,
>   I've just come to a question about period fastenings - when I'm 
> making period costumes, I often never know what type of fastening 
> shall I use. F.ex. the petticoats - were they fastened simply with 
> a ribbon or a button or what? Does anyone know any web page or book 
> or simply anything that could help me?
>
>   Thanks a lot
>
>   Zuzana

You need to be more specific.  What time period are you asking about?


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] the "Fram Oil Filter" hat & politics
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On Tue, 7 Feb 2006, Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> One of the interesting things about the Magdalen's hat is the motto on
> it; I don't think I've ever heard what it says, as it's barely legible
> in only a few reproductions.

It's much clearer in person, but it's in Hebrew, so I couldn't read it.
(It's always possible that it was just Hebrew characters and not actual
words, too.)

--Robin

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re:stockings for 18th century
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At 02:33 07/02/2006, you wrote:
>Are they in London?  I couldn't find any online catalog. If they  are local
>we could pop in while I am there.  Anne
>
>
>You could try Funn Stockings here in England.
>
>http://www.kellysearch.co.uk/gb-company-300002851.html
>
>Suzi


No sorry - they're in Sussex - a bit far for a bus journey. They 
don't do a catalogue online as far as I know, but I have a paper list 
they sent me somewhere.

Suzi


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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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did you try going to
http://images.vam.ac.uk
and searching for gloves?  That's the V&A image site

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Aren't there a bunch of close ups of the embroidery and lace on these types  
of gloves in "Fashion in Detail"?
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Status: RO

Mia,

Thank you for the deep breath!

I think I'll start with the plastic wire ties, since I was able to get them
at Home Depot a few minutes away from my office.  That should get me
started, and then we'll see where I go from there.  I'm really doing this
for my own pleasure.  I don't have any friends who are into re-enacting or
costuming... so I'm a bit of an oddity within my circle of friends.  I'm a
bit of an oddity anyway :)

I finally got the skirt sewn onto the bodice over the weekend.  Now I'm
working on sewing hooks and eyes to the bodice.  I've decided that this is
my learning gown... I'm getting it done so that I can figure out what's
wrong with it.  I can already see that the sleeves are not nearly tight
enough... and I gather that there generally weren't side seams in the
bodice, but that they were a bit further back, behind the arm.  I haven't
sewn much of anything in such a long time, that I'm really enjoying myself!

I'm in the Philadelphia area (just outside the city limits).

Kristin

On 2/2/06, Mia Dappert <snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Hey Kristin,
>
> First, take a deep breath,  Then decide what direction you want, or even
> think you might want to go in.  This will help you make your boning and
> pattern decisions.
>
> Just for the pleasure of doing it?  Only wearing it once a year, indoors
> in air conditioning?  Don't need much support?  Plastic boning is probably
> OK,
> Wearing it all day, all weekend at a reenactment?  Working and bending in
> it doing laundry at a museum site?  A little more bosom to support?  All
> your friends are hyper authenic?  Different choices.
>
> I saw you are in PA.  Where?  Some of the 18 cent reenactor folks run
> workshops in that NY/PA/MD area.  Being in NC, I'm too far away to take
> advantage of them, but they might fit your ticket.
>
> Your e-friend MIa in Far off Charlotte, NC
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
> What are the most popular cars? Find out at Yahoo! Autos
> _______________________________________________
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At 17:32 07/02/2006, you wrote:

>did you try going to
>http://images.vam.ac.uk
>and searching for gloves?  That's the V&A image site


I'd been to a different part of the V and A web site. Thanks for this.

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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Suzi Clarke wrote:

> 
> Does anybody have pictures of genuine 17th century gloves they can 
> share? 

The Boston MFA has quite a few in their collection, with nice pictures 
on their website.


Dawn



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Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2006 11:32:09 -0800 (PST)
From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] period fastenings
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Actually, I'd like to get to know something about all periods, but just now I need late middle ages (13th-15th century) 

Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net> wrote:  At 03:21 AM 2/7/2006, you wrote:
>Hi everyone,
> I've just come to a question about period fastenings - when I'm 
> making period costumes, I often never know what type of fastening 
> shall I use. F.ex. the petticoats - were they fastened simply with 
> a ribbon or a button or what? Does anyone know any web page or book 
> or simply anything that could help me?
>
> Thanks a lot
>
> Zuzana

You need to be more specific. What time period are you asking about?


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:18c stays
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> I'm in the Philadelphia area (just outside the city limits).

     Wow, you are right in the thick of a lot of resources!  Beth Rump, I
think she's with the Chadds Ford museum, sponsored a workshop.  Deb
Peterson of Past Masters has run stays workshops.  Last year there
was a "ladies only" event at Brandywine, and I think they will do it
again this year.

     All the details can be found in the archives of 18cWoman, which is a
Yahoo group.

     -Carol

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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Also, Piecework did a fine article on 16th C embroideries last year. Gloves
from QE2 inventory were part of the presentation.  I will look this up
later..
Kathleen


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 12:46 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?


> Aren't there a bunch of close ups of the embroidery and lace on these
types
> of gloves in "Fashion in Detail"?
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Hi, i did actually email them, and they answered me allready today. They 
told me that their silk stockings in white are sheer, so i would not want 
those. But their cotton stockings are used by many reenactors, they told me.
I also could do as Kensington Pallace' exhibition about court costumes 
learned me, that gentlemen wore cotton stockings first and then a pair of 
silk stockings on top of the cotton ones, so as to hide all the bad hairs.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 3:33 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re:stockings for 18th century


> Are they in London?  I couldn't find any online catalog. If they  are 
> local
> we could pop in while I am there.  Anne
>
>
> You could try Funn Stockings here in England.
>
> http://www.kellysearch.co.uk/gb-company-300002851.html
>
> Suzi
>
>
>
> -- 
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Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2006 20:56:37 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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t 17:46 07/02/2006, you wrote:
>Aren't there a bunch of close ups of the embroidery and lace on these types
>of gloves in "Fashion in Detail"?


Oh, I have so many books I forgot I had that - thanks for reminding 
me. That's what comes of working on one job while thinking of the 
next but three!

Suzi


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Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2006 19:51:26 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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At 15:33 07/02/2006, you wrote:
>Thank you! I am glad you found my site. :)
>
>The gloves on the Worshipful glovers guild pages that are for James
>the 1st are the ones you want to look for. There are also a pair of
>Danish gloves that the link at the moment escapes me.
>
>I am currently in training here on Wall Street (the subway ride was
>so very cool!) and do not have access to my personal computer. It is
>back at the hotel. I think the link is there on that computer and
>will try to find it.
>
>The Danish pair are fabulous! I will find the link for you somehow.
>
>For now do a search for King James I gloves and that should pull up
>a lot of really beautiful glove images for you. I really want to
>make a few of those. They would be for non-sca purposes so no one
>would really ever see them. :(
>
>Chiara Francesca
>glove maker :)


Francesca

Thank you - I would really appreciate the link if you can find it - I 
have a month for research before I need to start.  I went to an 
exhibition put on by the Worshipful Glovers, and must try to find the 
leaflet. However I am getting a very odd site from the address www.glovers.com

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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How about QE1 !!
KSM
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 12:46 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?


> Aren't there a bunch of close ups of the embroidery and lace on these
types
> of gloves in "Fashion in Detail"?
> _______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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At 18:36 07/02/2006, you wrote:
>Suzi Clarke wrote:
>
>>Does anybody have pictures of genuine 17th century gloves they can share?
>
>The Boston MFA has quite a few in their collection, with nice 
>pictures on their website.
>
>
>Dawn


Thank you.  All too complicated and expensive to copy, I fear. Most 
customers can't afford to pay for the time to do the embroidery. Pity!

Suzi


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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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Quoting Lloyd Mitchell <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>:

> Also, Piecework did a fine article on 16th C embroideries last year. Gloves
> from QE2 inventory were part of the presentation.  I will look this up
> later..

oooh.  I must have missed that issue somehow.  Which one was it?

Thanks,
Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: [h-cost] More eye candy
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My book  find of the week is "What Dolls Wore Before" by Florence Theriault.
She covers the years 1850-1925 in this volume of luscious real photos of doll costumes.
For those of you who have children for whom you do h-costume, this book provides designs and fabric and trim that has been difficult to pin down (well, so to speak,) before. Many of the dolls clothes were also what children were wearing in this period.

Next to the Kyoto volume that sparked our imaginations, this book will certainly sit in ready reach for ideas on how to do a more credible rendering.

Kathleen, who found this at the Amazon site...
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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There's an article on an early 17th c. hunting set including a pair of 
gauntlet gloves in Piecework Volume XI, Number 2 (March/April 2003).

Melanie Schuessler

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Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2006 15:51:31 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
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Status: RO

Yes the domain name got purchased from under them.

The link in my links section was from archive.org since it was still
up for a long time. Try it that way.

There is a huge amount of gloves from the 17th century that can be
found everywhere. There are few online museums that even let you
zoom in close.

It may be late tonight before I can get the links for you.

Chiara

On Tue, February 7, 2006 1:51 pm, Suzi Clarke said:
> At 15:33 07/02/2006, you wrote:
> Francesca
>
> Thank you - I would really appreciate the link if you can find it -
> I
> have a month for research before I need to start.  I went to an
> exhibition put on by the Worshipful Glovers, and must try to find
> the
> leaflet. However I am getting a very odd site from the address
> www.glovers.com
>
> Suzi
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>


Franchesca Havas
----------------------------------------

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In a message dated 2/7/2006 4:05:26 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

All too  complicated and expensive to copy, I fear.


What about the Spanish ones that seemed to just be decorated with  ribbon 
loops and metallic lace? #38.135a
 
 
 
I saw a pair faked for film made of  bought leather work gloves with a  cuff 
added made of a brocade enhanced with a little seed pearl embroidery, some  
bullion and spangles and lace. Just enough hand work to make the things  look 
worked to death when mixed with the brocade. Looked great.
 
I loved the knitted ones supposed worn by Cardinal Richelieu. I loved the  
iconography embroidered on just the top of the hand of the left glove. A great  
detail to use on a costume.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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In a message dated 2/7/2006 5:51:46 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

What  about the Spanish ones that seemed to just be decorated with  ribbon  
loops and metallic lace? #38.135a



loved the knitted ones supposed worn by Cardinal Richelieu. I loved  the  
iconography embroidered on just the top of the hand of the left  glove. A 
great  
detail to use on a costume.
 
 
I was looking at  the MFA in Boston site, BTW....thought I'd  mention that.  
:-P

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Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2006 22:53:41 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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At 23:10 07/02/2006, you wrote:
>There's an article on an early 17th c. hunting set including a pair 
>of gauntlet gloves in Piecework Volume XI, Number 2 (March/April 2003).
>
>Melanie Schuessler


As far as I know this magazine is not available in the U.K. At least 
I have never seen it here. Maybe I am looking in the wrong places?

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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Hi Suzi,
Yes i say the same of Denmark. But i have heard so many good things about 
this. Perhaps it is possible to subscribe it like i do for the austrailian 
Inspirations Magazine?

Bjarne

Where was it you could se the danish pair of 17th century gloves?
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 11:53 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?


> At 23:10 07/02/2006, you wrote:
>>There's an article on an early 17th c. hunting set including a pair of 
>>gauntlet gloves in Piecework Volume XI, Number 2 (March/April 2003).
>>
>>Melanie Schuessler
>
>
> As far as I know this magazine is not available in the U.K. At least I 
> have never seen it here. Maybe I am looking in the wrong places?
>
> Suzi
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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At 21:51 07/02/2006, you wrote:
>Yes the domain name got purchased from under them.
>
>The link in my links section was from archive.org since it was still
>up for a long time. Try it that way.
>
>There is a huge amount of gloves from the 17th century that can be
>found everywhere. There are few online museums that even let you
>zoom in close.
>
>It may be late tonight before I can get the links for you.
>
>Chiara


like I said, I have a while before I have to actually make these, so 
there is no rush.

Found this great site while looking around.

http://www.manchestergalleries.org/costume/narrative.php?irn=237&himage=9&themeback=10&CostumeTheme=#image

Suzi
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>I mean the underwear type pants - wide and with lace, >the rather shorter ones ( I've seen some with a below->knee length, but these eould be too long for me)

and 

>I've just come to a question about period fastenings - >when I'm making period costumes, I often never know >what type of fastening shall I use. F.ex. the petticoats - >were they fastened simply with a ribbon or a button or >what? Does anyone know any web page or book or >simply anything that could help me?


   
 > Zuzana

I believe you're looking for drawers; there are free directions for drafting a custom pattern for mid-19th century drawers at : www.elizabethstewartclark.com

I have used these directions for ladies of a variety of sizes and shapes and found it to work quite well. If you poke around the site a bit, you will also find advice on other mid-19th century undergarments.

Regards,
Kelly Dorman
Backward Glances
www.backwardglances.net
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] period fastenings
Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2006 18:48:00 -0500
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> Actually, I'd like to get to know something about all periods, but just 
> now I need late middle ages (13th-15th century)

Petticoats for 13th-15th century? I thought it was all one-piece garments up 
to the 16th C or so?

In any case, for the late Middle-Ages, I'd say lacings mostly, and some 
buttons maybe. But that's an awful long period to cover, and you don't say 
where, so it's a little hard to be more specific.

>
> Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net> wrote:  At 03:21 AM 2/7/2006, you 
> wrote:
>>Hi everyone,
>> I've just come to a question about period fastenings - when I'm
>> making period costumes, I often never know what type of fastening
>> shall I use. F.ex. the petticoats - were they fastened simply with
>> a ribbon or a button or what? Does anyone know any web page or book
>> or simply anything that could help me?
>>
>> Thanks a lot
>>
>> Zuzana
>
> You need to be more specific. What time period are you asking about?
>
>
> Joan Jurancich
> joanmj@surewest.net
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] drawers
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>>I mean the underwear type pants - wide and with lace,
>>the rather shorter ones ( I've seen some
>> with a below->knee length, but these eould be too long for me)
>> Zuzana

>I believe you're looking for drawers; there are free directions for 
>drafting a custom
> pattern for mid-19th century drawers at : www.elizabethstewartclark.com

Unless you're looking for medieval drawers (weren't you the one who posted a 
question about  fastenings too? -- unless they're totally unrelated 
questions). In any case, I don't think we can prove the existence of drawers 
as a standard undergarment before the 1800s, even if they existed (seemed to 
be a sort of curiosity then, except perhaps in Italy) in the late 1500s. And 
there's a strong case against their existence in the Middle Ages. 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2006 19:20:34 -0500
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The text for this article is built on items of the Burrell Collection,
Glascow, Scotland.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 5:53 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?


> At 23:10 07/02/2006, you wrote:
> >There's an article on an early 17th c. hunting set including a pair
> >of gauntlet gloves in Piecework Volume XI, Number 2 (March/April 2003).
> >
> >Melanie Schuessler
>
>
> As far as I know this magazine is not available in the U.K. At least
> I have never seen it here. Maybe I am looking in the wrong places?
>
> Suzi
>
>
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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] OT: Burger King costumes
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This commercial was a scream!

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-4186888463242782209


I love the sleeves on the lettuce costume, and the tomato hat is to die 
for!


Dawn

ps: the rest of the superbowl commercials are here:
http://video.google.com/superbowl.html



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] V&A 'In the Round' images
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Katherine,

I can view the images.  The website states that you need to have Apple 
QuickTime.  I guess because I am not using a Mac it won't show up.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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I discovered this magazine in the mid 1990s,  They are doing for the needle arts what we of h-costume hope we are doing for fashion and textile arts.  Every issue deals by history or handiwork what is being passed down or rediscovered by folk such as we are or hope to be.
>From time to time I have passed on to the list current articles that by serendipity or from my own interest, that seem to deal with topics of interest to H-costume. Whether it be 'nal binding', blackwork, the language of clothing,or maybe "Taste, Art, and Design in Great Britain from 1500 to 1900",  or other topics dealing with piecework from the far distant or near remembrances of past present, this one publication helps to keep me not only informed but inspired to learn past and new ways of manipulating the textiles I love.

Kathleen
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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OK.  thanks to the evil woman who pointed out the MFA in Boston site,
I've been drooling there for *far* too long.

Count Richelieu's gloves intrigue me.  Are there examples of knitted
gloves *before* 1600?

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Burger King costumes
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Dawn,

My husband told me there was an interesting commerical from Burger King that I would like.

During the mid-1970s, I worked at Burger King for 2 years of high school and one year of Jr. College.  My kids hate it when I special order Whoppers.  When I worked there "Have it your way!" was our slogan.  And we were not to complain.  I guess the advertising world is similar to the Fashion World, "What goes around, comes around."  Probably with film-making too... this ad looks very Busby Berkley-ish.

My favorite was the onion costume. 

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Burger King costumes
Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2006 19:37:31 -0600
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Of late their commercials are a bit weird IMO. And the King character creeps
me out.
De
Former McDonald's crew.

-----Original Message-----
Dawn,

My husband told me there was an interesting commerical from Burger King that
I would like.

During the mid-1970s, I worked at Burger King for 2 years of high school and
one year of Jr. College.  My kids hate it when I special order Whoppers.
When I worked there "Have it your way!" was our slogan.  And we were not to
complain.  I guess the advertising world is similar to the Fashion World,
"What goes around, comes around."  Probably with film-making too... this ad
looks very Busby Berkley-ish.

My favorite was the onion costume.

Penny E. Ladnier


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re:stockings for 18th century
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OK.  I can look at it when I am there. See you soon,	 

Anne

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 11:33 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re:stockings for 18th century



>No sorry - they're in Sussex - a bit far for a bus journey. They 
>don't do a catalogue online as far as I know, but I have a paper list 
>they sent me somewhere.
>
>Suzi


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From: Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Burger King costumes
Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2006 17:52:06 -0800
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That's our name for the character, "That Creepy Plastic Guy"  But I  
have to admit to loving the commercial with the King and Darth  
Vader.  :D

Althea


On Feb 7, 2006, at 5:37 PM, otsisto wrote:

> Of late their commercials are a bit weird IMO. And the King  
> character creeps
> me out.
> De
> Former McDonald's crew.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Dawn,
>
> My husband told me there was an interesting commerical from Burger  
> King that
> I would like.
>
> During the mid-1970s, I worked at Burger King for 2 years of high  
> school and
> one year of Jr. College.  My kids hate it when I special order  
> Whoppers.
> When I worked there "Have it your way!" was our slogan.  And we  
> were not to
> complain.  I guess the advertising world is similar to the Fashion  
> World,
> "What goes around, comes around."  Probably with film-making too...  
> this ad
> looks very Busby Berkley-ish.
>
> My favorite was the onion costume.
>
> Penny E. Ladnier
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Althea Turner
althea@alfalfapress.com

"Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have  
company in their ignorance, they don't want people to look into  
anything; they want us to believe like peasants and not ask the  
reasons behind things."
William of Conches, 12th century


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] period fastenings
Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2006 19:57:38 -0600
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There is indication in some "Italian" portraits of the possibility of
petticoats in the late 1400s. The counter argument is that the bodice and
skirt are two different materials but sewn together. I am sure there are
more theories out there.
As for closures, there is the possibility of hook and eye but being that
most garments had a tendency to be made to fit most people (hand-me-downs),
I would think that the drawstring waist band would be the most common form
of closure for the petticoat/underskirt.
I am going under the assumption that it is the under skirts that are being
asked about as I vague remember that petticoat has changed in item
identification over the years.

De
(been sick so a bit fogged brain)
-----Original Message-----
> Actually, I'd like to get to know something about all periods, but just
> now I need late middle ages (13th-15th century)

Petticoats for 13th-15th century? I thought it was all one-piece garments up
to the 16th C or so?

In any case, for the late Middle-Ages, I'd say lacings mostly, and some
buttons maybe. But that's an awful long period to cover, and you don't say
where, so it's a little hard to be more specific.



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
References: <20060207143616.90299.qmail@web25706.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>	<6.2.3.4.0.20060207150913.01db67c8@127.0.0.1>	<55190.66.9.89.66.1139326409.squirrel@webmail.io.com>	<6.2.3.4.0.20060207194849.01d65020@127.0.0.1>	<29462.66.9.89.66.1139349091.squirrel@webmail.io.com>	<6.2.3.4.0.20060207231017.01d54aa0@127.0.0.1>
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Susan B. Farmer wrote:

> 
> OK.  thanks to the evil woman who pointed out the MFA in Boston site,
> I've been drooling there for *far* too long.
> 
> Count Richelieu's gloves intrigue me.  Are there examples of knitted
> gloves *before* 1600?
> 

There is a pair of knitted ecclesiastical gloves in the MFA collection 
that are labelled "16th century". (item #38.1339a/b) That would put them 
in the 1500's...unfortunately further information is not displayed with 
the item.



Dawn


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References: <20060207143616.90299.qmail@web25706.mail.ukl.yahoo.com><6.2.3.4.0.20060207144111.01dbd8d0@127.0.0.1>
	<005e01c62c47$40668ac0$6400a8c0@Penny>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] V&A 'In the Round' images
Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2006 21:38:59 -0500
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No no, Quicktime is free, like Acrobat Reader or Real Player.

You can get it here. (BTW, you don't need to put in your email on the 
download site before downloading.)
http://www.apple.com/quicktime/download/win.html


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 7:33 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] V&A 'In the Round' images


> Katherine,
>
> I can view the images.  The website states that you need to have Apple 
> QuickTime.  I guess because I am not using a Mac it won't show up.
>
> Penny E. Ladnier
> Owner,
> The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
> Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
> Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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Yes.
--sue
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 5:34 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?


> 
> OK.  thanks to the evil woman who pointed out the MFA in Boston site,
> I've been drooling there for *far* too long.
> 
> Count Richelieu's gloves intrigue me.  Are there examples of knitted
> gloves *before* 1600?

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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Status: RO

It is available by subscription, although I don't know if they ship outside
the US/Canada.  At any rate, the publishers have a website, which I'm noting
below:
http://www.interweave.com/needle/piecework_magazine/subscriptions/subscripti
ons.asp
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 4:10 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?


> Hi Suzi,
> Yes i say the same of Denmark. But i have heard so many good things about
> this. Perhaps it is possible to subscribe it like i do for the austrailian
> Inspirations Magazine?
>
> Bjarne
>
> Where was it you could se the danish pair of 17th century gloves?
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 11:53 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
>
>
> > At 23:10 07/02/2006, you wrote:
> >>There's an article on an early 17th c. hunting set including a pair of
> >>gauntlet gloves in Piecework Volume XI, Number 2 (March/April 2003).
> >>
> >>Melanie Schuessler
> >
> >
> > As far as I know this magazine is not available in the U.K. At least I
> > have never seen it here. Maybe I am looking in the wrong places?
> >
> > Suzi
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Suzi and others...

American Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00006KSSX/qid%3D1139358772/sr%3D11-1/ref%3Dsr_11_1/103-9265195-6475826

 From the Piecework Website
http://www.interweave.com/needle/piecework_magazine/default.asp

I'm sure they will be happy to sell you back issues.  :)

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] period fastenings
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I'm a little confused.  I didn't know anyone was wearing anything like 
petticoats in 13th-15th c. Europe.  Are you looking at a different 
place?  Or did I misunderstand your question?  Type of fastening will 
depend on what garment, when, where, worn by whom, made of what, etc. 
There's not really an easy answer.

Melanie Schuessler


Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
 > Actually, I'd like to get to know something about all periods, but
 > just now I need late middle ages (13th-15th century)
 >
 > Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net> wrote:  At 03:21 AM 2/7/2006,
 > you wrote:
 >
 >> Hi everyone, I've just come to a question about period fastenings -
 >> when I'm making period costumes, I often never know what type of
 >> fastening shall I use. F.ex. the petticoats - were they fastened
 >> simply with a ribbon or a button or what? Does anyone know any web
 >> page or book or simply anything that could help me?
 >>
 >> Thanks a lot
 >>
 >> Zuzana



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Hello everyone!

I'm forwarding this on behalf of someone on another list; I figured folks
here would have an idea or two. :-)
------------------------------
Snip to relevent question:

> On another note, friends of mine are looking for a safe dagger / short
sword for the enjoyment of their young son.  (Safe - as in will not puncture
or perforate another person, causing welts upon older brother is considered
acceptable use)   They do not want the cheap plastic junk found at
halloween.  I vaguely remember someone posting on a forum about a rubber
dagger, seems to me it was made out of a similar material to that of hockey
pucks.  But unfortunately I cannot seem to find where I saw it.  If anyone
knows what I'm talking about, please let me know.

------------------------------
Thanks in advance!

Sheridan


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There are quite a few pictures of both women's and men's gloves in The 
Visual History of Costume Accessories by Valerie Cumming, but alas, 
they're all in black and white.

--lisa


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Child-friendly sword
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Try costume stores, they often carry "props" for various costumes. Also, if
you don't mind a longer sword, I got my son a wooden practice sword that
they sell for martial arts. It cost about $8.00. Very nice.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Shane & Sheridan
Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 8:13 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Child-friendly sword


Hello everyone!

I'm forwarding this on behalf of someone on another list; I figured folks
here would have an idea or two. :-)
------------------------------
Snip to relevent question:

> On another note, friends of mine are looking for a safe dagger / short
sword for the enjoyment of their young son.  (Safe - as in will not puncture
or perforate another person, causing welts upon older brother is considered
acceptable use)   They do not want the cheap plastic junk found at
halloween.  I vaguely remember someone posting on a forum about a rubber
dagger, seems to me it was made out of a similar material to that of hockey
pucks.  But unfortunately I cannot seem to find where I saw it.  If anyone
knows what I'm talking about, please let me know.

------------------------------
Thanks in advance!

Sheridan


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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At 03:04 08/02/2006, you wrote:
>It is available by subscription, although I don't know if they ship outside
>the US/Canada.  At any rate, the publishers have a website, which I'm noting
>below:
>http://www.interweave.com/needle/piecework_magazine/subscriptions/subscripti
>ons.asp
>--Sue


Thanks - I have written for information.

Suzi


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In a message dated 2/8/06 2:41:30 AM GMT Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> F.ex. the petticoats - were they fastened simply with
> >>a ribbon or a button or what?

Question - what do you actually mean by petticoat??

If you mean an underdress (aka chemise or shift), then  they were loose 
enough not to need fastenings - the only class distinction would be in the quality 
of the fabric.  (I asked the question because I've never known it to be called 
a petticoat during the earlier periods.)

If you mean the waistcoat-like garment often used to hold up hosen, then 
points (individual ties, rather than one long lace).

Hope that's of help, but more clarification would mean I could give more 
info.

Debs 
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Susan B. Farmer wrote:
> 
> OK.  thanks to the evil woman who pointed out the MFA in Boston site,
> I've been drooling there for *far* too long.
> 
> Count Richelieu's gloves intrigue me.  Are there examples of knitted
> gloves *before* 1600?

There's a pair of red knitted silk and metal thread 15th-century 
pontifical gloves and one silk and metal knitted 13th-century 
archbishop's glove in Textile Conservation and Research by Mechtild 
Flury-Lemberg.

Melanie Schuessler

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In a message dated 2/8/06 2:41:30 AM GMT Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> F.ex. the petticoats - were they fastened simply with
> >>a ribbon or a button or what?

PS to what I just said - you did give some awfully wide apart dates - in that 
time the shape of the chemise wouldn't change all that much, but the 
waistcoat-like garment would only be worn really more towards the end of it, and then 
not always, as the doublet was often used to hold up the hosen.

D
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I'm trying to translate instructions from _The Cut of Men's Clothes_ for 
the assembly of an 18th century coat. (page 88 of the recent hardcover 
edition)

"The backs are joined together by backstitching on the wrong side and 
then fine-drawing on the right, working from the skirt opening upwards."


Backstitching I understand, but "fine-drawing" has me lost. I found two 
references online that seem to suggest it is a method for joining fabric 
by butting the edges together, but that doesn't work with a seam that's 
already backstitched... does it?

Can anyone clarify this for me?



Dawn


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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 16:26:49 +1100
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Subject: [h-cost] Simplicity's new natural form era gown, opinions?
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I was just browsing Simplicity's website (I got a free pattern for
submitting a sewing tip to their 'idea exchange') and I found that they have
a new historic costume pattern,
http://www.simplicity.com/dv1_v4.cfm?design=4244 it looks like a bustle or
natural form period gown, they may be trying to cash in on The Phantom of
the Opera (though it seems a bit late) as their model does look quite a bit
like Emmy Rossum (who played the main character, Christine) although they do
already have a version of the costume she wears when she does her solo on
stage for the rest of the film she wears typical late 1870s to early 1880s
outfits.
Anyway, onto my point does anybody have an opinion on how authentic this is
and whether any inauthentic parts would be fixable? The bodice doesn't look
too bad it's got 2 darts at the front and princess seams at the back, it
reminds me of a polonaise except for the back drape. It would need fitting 
to be worn over a corset but otherwise I can't seem to pinpoint a flaw (I 
admit I don't like the look of the back of the skirt but I don't know if 
that's because it's inauthentic or I just dislike the style). Then again 
I've only done a little research into this era, so for those who have more 
expertise in natural form era outfits what is your opinion?
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/



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Subject: [h-cost] Embroidery dating advice
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Hi everyone!

I've been asked to help stabilise some VERY old
tapestry banners - if there are any embroiderers who
think they have more of a clue than "north european,
possibly 17h century" I'd be very happy to answer
queries on them.

More relevantly, the owner also has an exquisite
embroidered waistcoat - I get a feeling it is early
19C but it is so vibrant I can't quite believe it. The
construction is well illustrated by the photos as is
the embroidery. It is still wearable but I've
suggested it should be cleaned and packed away from
light and other clothes in an acid-neutral
environment. Anyone else - who knows more about men's
costume - have more of an idea? It feels inspired by
India but I couldn't tell you why...

http://couthiecouturegallery.fotopic.net/

They're yummy to look at, even if you don't feel you
can help :-)

Katherine the vague, in a very sunny and cold Edinburgh

"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright


		
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From: "kelly grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Embroidery dating advice
Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 09:38:27 -0400
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Status: RO

The waistcoat looks late 18th Century to me. the vibrant colours were 
popular then too, and if pack away from light for the last couple of hundred 
years, would retain it's colour. It looks in fabulous condition! I would 
lightly vacum it, with a low power vacume like ones used in museums, but 
that's all before packing it away properly.  "cleaning" often confuses 
people into washing it in water, which might damage the garment.  No matter 
the condition, it shouldn't be worn any more.
At the end of the 18th Century, fashions were becomming inspired by the near 
east. Archeaoligical digs in Egypt and expansion into the Medeterrianian and 
Eastward by England were influencing a new Classical era. That may be why 
you feel it's inspired by India.

Looks yummy!
Kelly in Nova Scotia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "katherine sanders" <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 5:36 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Embroidery dating advice


> Hi everyone!
>
> I've been asked to help stabilise some VERY old
> tapestry banners - if there are any embroiderers who
> think they have more of a clue than "north european,
> possibly 17h century" I'd be very happy to answer
> queries on them.
>
> More relevantly, the owner also has an exquisite
> embroidered waistcoat - I get a feeling it is early
> 19C but it is so vibrant I can't quite believe it. The
> construction is well illustrated by the photos as is
> the embroidery. It is still wearable but I've
> suggested it should be cleaned and packed away from
> light and other clothes in an acid-neutral
> environment. Anyone else - who knows more about men's
> costume - have more of an idea? It feels inspired by
> India but I couldn't tell you why...
>
> http://couthiecouturegallery.fotopic.net/
>
> They're yummy to look at, even if you don't feel you
> can help :-)
>
> Katherine the vague, in a very sunny and cold Edinburgh
>
> "A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will
> annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright
>
>
>
> ___________________________________________________________
> Yahoo! Photos - NEW, now offering a quality print service from just 8p a 
> photo http://uk.photos.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Simplicity's new natural form era gown, opinions?
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Status: RO

At 05:26 08/02/2006, you wrote:
>I was just browsing Simplicity's website (I got a free pattern for
>submitting a sewing tip to their 'idea exchange') and I found that they have
>a new historic costume pattern,
>http://www.simplicity.com/dv1_v4.cfm?design=4244 it looks like a bustle or
>natural form period gown, they may be trying to cash in on The Phantom of
>the Opera (though it seems a bit late) as their model does look quite a bit
>like Emmy Rossum (who played the main character, Christine) although they do
>already have a version of the costume she wears when she does her solo on
>stage for the rest of the film she wears typical late 1870s to early 1880s
>outfits.
>Anyway, onto my point does anybody have an opinion on how authentic this is
>and whether any inauthentic parts would be fixable? The bodice doesn't look
>too bad it's got 2 darts at the front and princess seams at the back, it
>reminds me of a polonaise except for the back drape. It would need 
>fitting to be worn over a corset but otherwise I can't seem to 
>pinpoint a flaw (I admit I don't like the look of the back of the 
>skirt but I don't know if that's because it's inauthentic or I just 
>dislike the style). Then again I've only done a little research into 
>this era, so for those who have more expertise in natural form era 
>outfits what is your opinion?
>Elizabeth


The bodice looks reasonable, but I am really not sure about the 
drapes coming from the back bodice in that way. I've made a few of 
this period and would much rather rely on my favourites, Hunnisett 
and Arnold for patterns. "Dover's "Harper's Bazaar" book has lots of 
pictures of this era, and Truly Victorian has lots of patterns for 
skirts of this period. I would perhaps not "spend" your pattern on this.

Suzi


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Funn Stockings, was 18th century stockings
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I've just found my samples from Funn Stockings. (Who says my workroom 
is a shambles?) The silk ones are very fine, and would need to be 
worn over another pair for men's 18th century. The cotton ones are 
not so fine, but are translucent rather than transparent. Hope this helps.

Suzi


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	<20060207150829.gumo69ittxc0g4gc@www.goldsword.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 08:53:05 -0500
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How time flies, alas...
The issue is actually Vol. XI, Number 2 (March/April '03)
While looking for this last eve, I pulled several issues out at random that
deal with the 16/17Centuries.They are:Taste, Art, and Design in great
Britain 1500-1900
(Jan/Feb '03)
The Wedding Cloak of Johann GeorgI (May/June '05)
Language of clothing (July/Aug '03)Julliet Hamelcourt: Medieval Artist in a
modern World (Nov/Dec '99)
Blackwork (Jan/Feb'04)

Because of the breadth of needle arts  this magazine covers, all be it
sometimes in snatches, it is the single subscription I keep up with.

Kathleen  (And they are a company that actually answer phones or returns
e-mail queries!!)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 4:08 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?


> Quoting Lloyd Mitchell <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>:
>
> > Also, Piecework did a fine article on 16th C embroideries last year.
Gloves
> > from QE2 inventory were part of the presentation.  I will look this up
> > later..
>
> oooh.  I must have missed that issue somehow.  Which one was it?
>
> Thanks,
> Susan
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> University of Tennessee
> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Child-friendly sword
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Sheridan,
 
I've used rubber daggers in various live-action games (full-contact fighting ones as well as the more 'drama' oriented ones).
 
We picked them up at martial art stores, where you can also buy wooden practice swords or shinai (bamboo practice swords), all three of which should qualify under your friend's qualifications.
 
Angharad / Jonnalyhn Wolfcat
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From: "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] Knitted gloves
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I was drooling over a friends new book this weekend that had great pics
of, if I remember correctly, 3 pairs of knitted gloves.  One of the
earliest pairs was red.  He got it at a museum in Bavaria on a trip last
fall so the text is in Germany.  Haven't had a chance to search around
and see if it is available outside the museum but here is the info I
copied down:

Textile Schatze aus Renaissance und Barock Bayerisches National Museum
Birgitt Borkopp-Restle
Bavarian National Museum

Had some great pics of a 16/early 17C embroideryed shirt, lace
examples, etc. as well

Catherine
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Simplicity's new natural form era gown, opinions?
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The actual picture looks as if the side poof is pulled to the front opening 
but the drawing view does not. I don't know if that is the problem you seek, 
but that is one difference I see. The ones I've seen like this are pulled 
more towards the back, not to the front. They form the bustle and "butt 
enhancement" with all the poofyness.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 12:26 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Simplicity's new natural form era gown, opinions?


>I was just browsing Simplicity's website (I got a free pattern for
> submitting a sewing tip to their 'idea exchange') and I found that they 
> have
> a new historic costume pattern,
> http://www.simplicity.com/dv1_v4.cfm?design=4244 it looks like a bustle or
> natural form period gown, they may be trying to cash in on The Phantom of
> the Opera (though it seems a bit late) as their model does look quite a 
> bit
> like Emmy Rossum (who played the main character, Christine) although they 
> do
> already have a version of the costume she wears when she does her solo on
> stage for the rest of the film she wears typical late 1870s to early 1880s
> outfits.
> Anyway, onto my point does anybody have an opinion on how authentic this 
> is
> and whether any inauthentic parts would be fixable? The bodice doesn't 
> look
> too bad it's got 2 darts at the front and princess seams at the back, it
> reminds me of a polonaise except for the back drape. It would need fitting 
> to be worn over a corset but otherwise I can't seem to pinpoint a flaw (I 
> admit I don't like the look of the back of the skirt but I don't know if 
> that's because it's inauthentic or I just dislike the style). Then again 
> I've only done a little research into this era, so for those who have more 
> expertise in natural form era outfits what is your opinion?
> Elizabeth
> --------------------------------------------
> Elizabeth Walpole
> Canberra Australia
> ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
> http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: underpants 19th c?
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When 19th cent?
   
  early? middle? late?
   
    There are some patterns Past Patterns( to buy) and Elizabeth Stewart Clark( free on the web)  take care of middle 19th cent (split crothch and all).  Folkwear USED to make a late 19th cent. version, I don't know if they still do.
   
  MIa in Charlotte, NC, who uses that mid-19th cent to wear under 18c kit.  I just can't do without

		
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At 13:38 08/02/2006, you wrote:
>The waistcoat looks late 18th Century to me. the vibrant colours 
>were popular then too, and if pack away from light for the last 
>couple of hundred years, would retain it's colour. It looks in 
>fabulous condition! I would lightly vacum it, with a low power 
>vacume like ones used in museums, but that's all before packing it 
>away properly.  "cleaning" often confuses people into washing it in 
>water, which might damage the garment.  No matter the condition, it 
>shouldn't be worn any more.
>At the end of the 18th Century, fashions were becomming inspired by 
>the near east. Archeaoligical digs in Egypt and expansion into the 
>Medeterrianian and Eastward by England were influencing a new 
>Classical era. That may be why you feel it's inspired by India.
>
>Looks yummy!
>Kelly in Nova Scotia
>
>>Hi everyone!
>>
>>I've been asked to help stabilise some VERY old
>>tapestry banners - if there are any embroiderers who
>>think they have more of a clue than "north european,
>>possibly 17h century" I'd be very happy to answer
>>queries on them.
>>
>>More relevantly, the owner also has an exquisite
>>embroidered waistcoat - I get a feeling it is early
>>19C but it is so vibrant I can't quite believe it. The
>>construction is well illustrated by the photos as is
>>the embroidery. It is still wearable but I've
>>suggested it should be cleaned and packed away from
>>light and other clothes in an acid-neutral
>>environment. Anyone else - who knows more about men's
>>costume - have more of an idea? It feels inspired by
>>India but I couldn't tell you why...
>>
>>http://couthiecouturegallery.fotopic.net/
>>
>>They're yummy to look at, even if you don't feel you
>>can help :-)
>>
>>Katherine the vague, in a very sunny and cold Edinburgh


It looks about 178- to me. I have half a waistcoat front from that 
era, and it has not faded at all - the silks were obviously very well dyed.

I would suggest you contact a conservator at one of the many fine 
museums in Scotland, and ask for advice.  I cannot remember where she 
works, but Naomi Tarrant is/was curator of costume at a Museum there 
- Shambellie House maybe? Sortry, I'm being vague too!!

Suzi in sunny London, although clouding over as I type.


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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] period fastenings
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Perhaps I was not clear enough - when I was talking about petticoats, I meant mainly the 19th century of course. The fact is, I was asking if anyone knew a web page or a book where I could read something about fastenings in common - which kind of fastening was used in the middle ages, what in renaissance etc. 
  For example I'd like to know when did people start to use lace as a fastening - and when buttons. and how did the buttons actually look like? Were they from the same fabric as the garment, or could they have been made of metal? For such questions it is hard to find anywhere an answer.
  
Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote:
  I'm a little confused. I didn't know anyone was wearing anything like 
petticoats in 13th-15th c. Europe. Are you looking at a different 
place? Or did I misunderstand your question? Type of fastening will 
depend on what garment, when, where, worn by whom, made of what, etc. 
There's not really an easy answer.

Melanie Schuessler


Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
> Actually, I'd like to get to know something about all periods, but
> just now I need late middle ages (13th-15th century)
>
> Joan Jurancich wrote: At 03:21 AM 2/7/2006,
> you wrote:
>
>> Hi everyone, I've just come to a question about period fastenings -
>> when I'm making period costumes, I often never know what type of
>> fastening shall I use. F.ex. the petticoats - were they fastened
>> simply with a ribbon or a button or what? Does anyone know any web
>> page or book or simply anything that could help me?
>>
>> Thanks a lot
>>
>> Zuzana



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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Simplicity's new natural form era gown, opinions?
Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 09:25:54 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

This is from another  group I sew with.  Their emphasis is on the 
Victorian/ Edwardian Period.

<< It's sure pretty, but I wouldn't exactly call it "historic."  
"Costume" is the right word.  But it looks like they're trying to get 
an 1880 look.  When JoAnn has their Simplicity $1 pattern sale, I'd 
pick it up because it looks like the bodice would work, with a few 
modifications.  I really don't like the poufy stuff at the hip -- I'd 
change that part to something pleated.>>

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 8, 2006, at 12:26 AM, Elizabeth Walpole wrote:

> I was just browsing Simplicity's website (I got a free pattern for
> submitting a sewing tip to their 'idea exchange') and I found that 
> they have
> a new historic costume pattern,
> http://www.simplicity.com/dv1_v4.cfm?design=4244 it looks like a 
> bustle or
> natural form period gown, they may be trying to cash in on The Phantom 
> of
> the Opera (though it seems a bit late) as their model does look quite 
> a bit
> like Emmy Rossum (who played the main character, Christine) although 
> they do
> already have a version of the costume she wears when she does her solo 
> on
> stage for the rest of the film she wears typical late 1870s to early 
> 1880s
> outfits.
> Anyway, onto my point does anybody have an opinion on how authentic 
> this is
> and whether any inauthentic parts would be fixable? The bodice doesn't 
> look
> too bad it's got 2 darts at the front and princess seams at the back, 
> it
> reminds me of a polonaise except for the back drape. It would need 
> fitting to be worn over a corset but otherwise I can't seem to 
> pinpoint a flaw (I admit I don't like the look of the back of the 
> skirt but I don't know if that's because it's inauthentic or I just 
> dislike the style). Then again I've only done a little research into 
> this era, so for those who have more expertise in natural form era 
> outfits what is your opinion?
> Elizabeth
> --------------------------------------------
> Elizabeth Walpole
> Canberra Australia
> ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
> http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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At 01:36 AM 2/8/2006, you wrote:
>Hi everyone!
>
>I've been asked to help stabilise some VERY old
>tapestry banners - if there are any embroiderers who
>think they have more of a clue than "north european,
>possibly 17h century" I'd be very happy to answer
>queries on them.
>
>More relevantly, the owner also has an exquisite
>embroidered waistcoat - I get a feeling it is early
>19C but it is so vibrant I can't quite believe it. The
>construction is well illustrated by the photos as is
>the embroidery. It is still wearable but I've
>suggested it should be cleaned and packed away from
>light and other clothes in an acid-neutral
>environment. Anyone else - who knows more about men's
>costume - have more of an idea? It feels inspired by
>India but I couldn't tell you why...
>
>http://couthiecouturegallery.fotopic.net/
>
>They're yummy to look at, even if you don't feel you
>can help :-)
>
>Katherine the vague, in a very sunny and cold Edinburgh
>
>"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will
>annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright
>

I can't view anything but the indices and the first picture of each set.

The one picture of the waistcoat gives me the impression that it is 
later 18th rather than early 19th century (I'm no expert in this 
area, so take my impression for what it's worth :-D).


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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And I have ordered several back issues of magazines.  This is another one of
those evil sites.  Anne


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The Interactive Weaver Tartan Generator automatically generates tartan
patterns based on your color selections. Choose your colors, their
order and the number of threads per color and they'll draw the tartan
and then give you the option of having twill or silk fabric woven in
your chosen pattern.

http://houseoftartan.co.uk/interactive/weaver/index.html


I have no ordered from this company, but it looks like a neat method of 
getting some unique fabric.



Dawn


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>   For example I'd like to know when did people start to use lace as a fastening - and when buttons. and how did the buttons actually look like? Were they from the same fabric as the garment, or could they have been made of metal? For such questions it is hard to find anywhere an answer.

http://www.eleanorlebrun.com/closure.htm

I have started to look into this question.  But I do not have all the details worked out, a work in progress.  I hope it helps a bit.

Good luck
Annette
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>,
        Catherine Kinsey
	<ckinsey@kumc.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knitted gloves
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Quoting Catherine Kinsey <ckinsey@kumc.edu>:

> I was drooling over a friends new book this weekend that had great pics
> of, if I remember correctly, 3 pairs of knitted gloves.  One of the
> earliest pairs was red.  He got it at a museum in Bavaria on a trip last
> fall so the text is in Germany.  Haven't had a chance to search around
> and see if it is available outside the museum but here is the info I
> copied down:
>
> Textile Schatze aus Renaissance und Barock Bayerisches National Museum
> Birgitt Borkopp-Restle
> Bavarian National Museum
>

Cool.  My kid is going to Germany this summer -- how much of the book is
pre-1600 ... and how much does it cost?  I'm always interested in books
wit cool pictures of embroidery and *stuff*!

Thanks,
Susan

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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Quoting Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>:

> Susan B. Farmer wrote:
>>
>> OK.  thanks to the evil woman who pointed out the MFA in Boston site,
>> I've been drooling there for *far* too long.
>>
>> Count Richelieu's gloves intrigue me.  Are there examples of knitted
>> gloves *before* 1600?
>
> There's a pair of red knitted silk and metal thread 15th-century 
> pontifical gloves and one silk and metal knitted 13th-century 
> archbishop's glove in Textile Conservation and Research by Mechtild 
> Flury-Lemberg.
>
Cool.  If the "red knitted silk and metal thread" are the ones at the
V&A, I just found them.

Thanks!
Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
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Status: RO

He didn't remember the exact price with the exchange rate, thought it
might be around $35 US.

There were also a lot of full-page color photos of fabrics from the
period it was covering, which was late 16/early 17C, and into the 17th
C.  My interests are more 16th C but I was still thinking of getting
it.

Hope that helps,
Catherine

>>> "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com> 02/08/06 9:51 AM >>>
Quoting Catherine Kinsey <ckinsey@kumc.edu>:

> I was drooling over a friends new book this weekend that had great
pics
> of, if I remember correctly, 3 pairs of knitted gloves.  One of the
> earliest pairs was red.  He got it at a museum in Bavaria on a trip
last
> fall so the text is in Germany.  Haven't had a chance to search
around
> and see if it is available outside the museum but here is the info I
> copied down:
>
> Textile Schatze aus Renaissance und Barock Bayerisches National
Museum
> Birgitt Borkopp-Restle
> Bavarian National Museum
>

Cool.  My kid is going to Germany this summer -- how much of the book
is
pre-1600 ... and how much does it cost?  I'm always interested in
books
wit cool pictures of embroidery and *stuff*!

Thanks,
Susan

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Embroidery dating advice
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Hi Katherine,
Yum yum, thanks for posting the link. Oh god, i cant stand those 
embroideries :-)
Its a mans waistcoat 1780-90 my guess. Feather patterns was very sheek in 
the 80ies.............
Cant help with the tappestries.
Even though it looks very inspired from India it could have ben made 
anywhere in Europe, perhaps France?

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "katherine sanders" <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 10:36 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Embroidery dating advice


> Hi everyone!
>
> I've been asked to help stabilise some VERY old
> tapestry banners - if there are any embroiderers who
> think they have more of a clue than "north european,
> possibly 17h century" I'd be very happy to answer
> queries on them.
>
> More relevantly, the owner also has an exquisite
> embroidered waistcoat - I get a feeling it is early
> 19C but it is so vibrant I can't quite believe it. The
> construction is well illustrated by the photos as is
> the embroidery. It is still wearable but I've
> suggested it should be cleaned and packed away from
> light and other clothes in an acid-neutral
> environment. Anyone else - who knows more about men's
> costume - have more of an idea? It feels inspired by
> India but I couldn't tell you why...
>
> http://couthiecouturegallery.fotopic.net/
>
> They're yummy to look at, even if you don't feel you
> can help :-)
>
> Katherine the vague, in a very sunny and cold Edinburgh
>
> "A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will
> annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright
>
>
>
> ___________________________________________________________
> Yahoo! Photos - NEW, now offering a quality print service from just 8p a 
> photo http://uk.photos.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 10:45:42 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Links RE: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Still looking for the danish wedding outfit with glove link, sorry. :(

http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk/index.cfm?fuseAction=SM.nav&UUID=D69CF392-BC32-4DBD-8CBCA2C0FF8D78DF

http://www.davidrumsey.com/amico/amico934716-18548.html

http://www.geocities.com/stiobhard/glove.html

http://www.gloveassociation.org

http://search.concealedgarments.org/highlights.jsp;jsessionid=2ey8fk54bf5yi

This image of a glove:

http://search.concealedgarments.org/results.jsp?highlight=4


Gloves
London, Batsford. 1982. Cummings, Valerie.
(Starts at 1600. Cover Elizabethan gloves, and has reproduction of
mid-17th-century patterns for gloves)


Compte de l'Argenterie du Roi annee 1610: Rendus, par Me. Pierre
Dela Bruyere Argentier. Sacre du Roy Louis Treize. A Pierre Robin
Marchand de Drap - et Jean Royer Marchand drapier la somme de 17316
- 17 - 69...pour les fournitures qu'ils ont faits pour ; Paris C.
1715 [Paris, c. 1715]

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Links RE: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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At 16:45 08/02/2006, you wrote:
>Still looking for the danish wedding outfit with glove link, sorry. :(
>
>http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk/index.cfm?fuseAction=SM.nav&UUID=D69CF392-BC32-4DBD-8CBCA2C0FF8D78DF
>
>http://www.davidrumsey.com/amico/amico934716-18548.html
>
>http://www.geocities.com/stiobhard/glove.html
>
>http://www.gloveassociation.org
>
>http://search.concealedgarments.org/highlights.jsp;jsessionid=2ey8fk54bf5yi
>
>This image of a glove:
>
>http://search.concealedgarments.org/results.jsp?highlight=4
>
>
>Gloves
>London, Batsford. 1982. Cummings, Valerie.
>(Starts at 1600. Cover Elizabethan gloves, and has reproduction of
>mid-17th-century patterns for gloves)
>
>
>Compte de l'Argenterie du Roi annee 1610: Rendus, par Me. Pierre
>Dela Bruyere Argentier. Sacre du Roy Louis Treize. A Pierre Robin
>Marchand de Drap - et Jean Royer Marchand drapier la somme de 17316
>- 17 - 69...pour les fournitures qu'ils ont faits pour ; Paris C.
>1715 [Paris, c. 1715]


Thank you Francesca. Some of these I got off your links page, but 
some are new. All are helpful for me to talk to my customer. I'm very grateful.

Suzi


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It's somewhat dated but this might have something of use...

http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/histshoe/redfern/index.htm

Marc


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Burger King costumes
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Thank you. Me too.

If Creepy Plastic Guy showed up at my place, I'ld have no recourse other
than to beat him to death with a baseball bat.

eeeeeyuuuuu (shivers!)

(Sorry, no costume content.)

Arlys

On Tue, 7 Feb 2006 17:52:06 -0800 Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com>
writes:
> That's our name for the character, "That Creepy Plastic Guy"  But I  
> have to admit to loving the commercial with the King and Darth  
> Vader.  :D
> 
> Althea

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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At 17:34 08/02/2006, you wrote:
>It's somewhat dated but this might have something of use...
>
>http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/histshoe/redfern/index.htm
>
>Marc


Marc

That is an amazing site - thank you - it has given me more ideas, as 
I was hoping to find something not quite so fancy as so many are, and 
there are some great examples there.

I'm beginning to look forward to these now, even though I have a few 
jobs to finish first!

Thanks again

Suzi


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Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 12:21:43 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Links RE: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Kinda found where it used to live ...

http://www.manchestergalleries.org/costume/catalogue/ContactSheet.php?QueryName=BasicQuery&QueryPage=%2Fcostume%2Fcatalogue%2Findex.php&Anywhere=SummaryData%7CAdmWebMetadata&QueryTerms=glove&QueryOption=Anywhere&Submit=Search&StartAt=41


On Wed, February 8, 2006 10:45 am, Chiara Francesca Arianna
d'Onofrio said:
> Still looking for the danish wedding outfit with glove link, sorry.
> :(
>
> http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk/index.cfm?fuseAction=SM.nav&UUID=D69CF392-BC32-4DBD-8CBCA2C0FF8D78DF
>
> http://www.davidrumsey.com/amico/amico934716-18548.html
>
> http://www.geocities.com/stiobhard/glove.html
>
> http://www.gloveassociation.org
>
> http://search.concealedgarments.org/highlights.jsp;jsessionid=2ey8fk54bf5yi
>
> This image of a glove:
>
> http://search.concealedgarments.org/results.jsp?highlight=4
>
>
> Gloves
> London, Batsford. 1982. Cummings, Valerie.
> (Starts at 1600. Cover Elizabethan gloves, and has reproduction of
> mid-17th-century patterns for gloves)
>
>
> Compte de l'Argenterie du Roi annee 1610: Rendus, par Me. Pierre
> Dela Bruyere Argentier. Sacre du Roy Louis Treize. A Pierre Robin
> Marchand de Drap - et Jean Royer Marchand drapier la somme de 17316
> - 17 - 69...pour les fournitures qu'ils ont faits pour ; Paris C.
> 1715 [Paris, c. 1715]
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


Chiara
http://groups.yahoo.com/subscribe/societyofstanne

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Katherine,

	I would suggest the waistcoat is between 1790 and 1800, just at the
change of fashion from Georgian to Regency. The embroidery very much harks
to the Georgian, in that it is so colourful in execution, and quite heavy in
design. The sprigging, however, gives it away as Regency, as this was very
much part of the Regency motif, as does the ivory silk.

	The cut of the waistcoat is also indicative of early Regency. It
retains a slightly longer waist, with pointed fronts and large pockets, all
of which are Georgian influences. We see the fronts of waistcoats straighten
as Regency fashion takes hold, and pockets become smaller. 

	As to the banners, I'd need a little more information as to
dimensions. I would suggest these may not be banners, rather orphry bands,
definitely ecclesiastical. Without being able to examine the banners in
person, or having better detailed close-ups, it looks as though the first in
the series is perhaps Opus Anglicanum, done in needlepainting and some or
nue. In which case this is likely very valuable, museum piece, likely worked
on a wool/silk ground with silk threads and gold. I would suggest this is
late, rather than early Opus Anglicanum, perhaps 14th or 15th century. The
figure work here is very fluid, and the execution of fills and the or nue
quite skilled. I'd also suggest this was done in a professional embroidery
house.

	The second is earlier, I think, and is unfinished. But, again,
without being able to examine the piece, or having better images, it is
difficult to tell. There is a great deal of water damage here. The figures
seem a bit stiffer in form, and so I'd hazard a guess at 13th century. The
cartoons are clearly visible here, which would indicate either an unfinished
piece, or a severely damaged piece.

 	The third is a puzzle. It looks as though it's edged with damaged
green silk velvet, and has no taper to it at all, which would suggest not an
orphry, perhaps rather part of the outside edge of an altar frontal. The
figures are quite crude, reminiscent of very early opus anglicanum, so
perhaps 11th century or earlier. But, again, without being able to examine
the piece, I'm only stabbing in the dark. I'd need to be able to look at the
textiles themselves to ascertain material content, etc., in order to give a
more educated opinion. These could be very well done modern pieces made to
look older.

	Whatever you do, you're going to have to be sure to use only the
best quality conservator's materials. There is quite a range of thought on
restoration/preservation/conservation. At the very least you can use
conservator's gauze to stabilize those areas that are in the worst repair.

	Just my thoughts.

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fine drawing?
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Hi Dawn,
Gosh i never read that chapter, i surely will now. I dont understand this 
fine-drawing thing either. Never heard it. Dont you think they just mean 
that you have to press the seams to the sides and iron?  I have never seen 
any stitches used on the right side of the back pieces.
In the american book Costume Close Up there are sewing instruktions two of a 
mans coat. Only types of stitches used is: back stitches, point á rabattre 
sous la main and slanted hemming stitches.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 4:48 AM
Subject: [h-cost] fine drawing?


> I'm trying to translate instructions from _The Cut of Men's Clothes_ for 
> the assembly of an 18th century coat. (page 88 of the recent hardcover 
> edition)
>
> "The backs are joined together by backstitching on the wrong side and then 
> fine-drawing on the right, working from the skirt opening upwards."
>
>
> Backstitching I understand, but "fine-drawing" has me lost. I found two 
> references online that seem to suggest it is a method for joining fabric 
> by butting the edges together, but that doesn't work with a seam that's 
> already backstitched... does it?
>
> Can anyone clarify this for me?
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <6.2.3.4.0.20060208082843.01dd6ec8@127.0.0.1><20060208143940.QFZB9108.eastrmmtao06.cox.net@ANNESCOMPUTER>
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Subject: Re: Links RE: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 18:08:37 +0100
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Hi Chiara,
The danish wedding? Is it the reconstrukted renaissance wedding dress from 
Kronborg?
The link is here:
http://www.ses.dk/sofiegalleri/
But there is no link to any gloves, or did i miss something?

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 5:45 PM
Subject: Links RE: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?


> Still looking for the danish wedding outfit with glove link, sorry. :(
>
> http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk/index.cfm?fuseAction=SM.nav&UUID=D69CF392-BC32-4DBD-8CBCA2C0FF8D78DF
>
> http://www.davidrumsey.com/amico/amico934716-18548.html
>
> http://www.geocities.com/stiobhard/glove.html
>
> http://www.gloveassociation.org
>
> http://search.concealedgarments.org/highlights.jsp;jsessionid=2ey8fk54bf5yi
>
> This image of a glove:
>
> http://search.concealedgarments.org/results.jsp?highlight=4
>
>
> Gloves
> London, Batsford. 1982. Cummings, Valerie.
> (Starts at 1600. Cover Elizabethan gloves, and has reproduction of
> mid-17th-century patterns for gloves)
>
>
> Compte de l'Argenterie du Roi annee 1610: Rendus, par Me. Pierre
> Dela Bruyere Argentier. Sacre du Roy Louis Treize. A Pierre Robin
> Marchand de Drap - et Jean Royer Marchand drapier la somme de 17316
> - 17 - 69...pour les fournitures qu'ils ont faits pour ; Paris C.
> 1715 [Paris, c. 1715]
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Wed, 08 Feb 2006 18:48:55 +0100
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Embroidery dating advice
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On Wed, 8 Feb 2006 09:36:49 +0000 (GMT), katherine sanders  
<katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> I've been asked to help stabilise some VERY old
> tapestry banners - if there are any embroiderers who
> think they have more of a clue than "north european,
> possibly 17h century" I'd be very happy to answer
> queries on them.
> http://couthiecouturegallery.fotopic.net/

 From what I can see in the photoes, I'd hassard that the first one might  
be maybe as early as 1350, but most likely 15thC. The colors are more or  
less compatible with mid 14thC english embroideries in the V&A.On the  
other hand, there is the golden/apricot color and what looks like orange.  
Do you have any idea if the golden shades might be faded madder reds or if  
it was golden all along ? I can't make out the stitches properly, but it  
looks like an Opus Anglicanum piece from what I see. The goldwork  
background used here seems to be a more common feature of the 15thC than  
the 14th from what I've seen over the years. There is a cope in Historisk  
Museum her in Oslo with an embroidered band bearing a superficial  
resemblance to this piece btw.

The halfdone or very worn banner is hard to tell due to the stitches not  
being very visible.And too little of the pattern and colors are seen. Is  
it the back piece of the one above ? Or a separate one ?

The 3rd one is the first I've seen with green velvet. Lots of apricot or  
faded madder reds, but too blurry to tell much. Opus Anglicanum work and  
couched gold background in different patterns ? The colors look more  
french than english to me, but as I can't see the details close enough...

Thanks for posting these, I'd love to see these close up. Do you have any  
better detailed photoes ? Know anything about their history or origin ?

Gunvor


-- 
"Jeg har sagt ja og nei og DA får du lov"
Anders (nesten 4 år)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Embroidery dating advice
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Status: RO

Katherine, my "gut instinct" on the waistcoat is late 18th century, but I'm no expert.  The curator of the Valentine museum in Richmond, VA (whose name is escaping me at the moment, it's been a few years) was quite studied on men's shirts and waiscoats of the 18th and 19th centuries and could probably give a more educated time frame.  

HTH--

LuAnn (who agrees these items are absolutely lovely...thanks for sharing)
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: katherine sanders<mailto:katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk> 
  To: h-costume@mail.indra.com<mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com> 
  Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 1:36 AM
  Subject: [h-cost] Embroidery dating advice


  Hi everyone!

  I've been asked to help stabilise some VERY old
  tapestry banners - if there are any embroiderers who
  think they have more of a clue than "north european,
  possibly 17h century" I'd be very happy to answer
  queries on them.

  More relevantly, the owner also has an exquisite
  embroidered waistcoat - I get a feeling it is early
  19C but it is so vibrant I can't quite believe it. The
  construction is well illustrated by the photos as is
  the embroidery. It is still wearable but I've
  suggested it should be cleaned and packed away from
  light and other clothes in an acid-neutral
  environment. Anyone else - who knows more about men's
  costume - have more of an idea? It feels inspired by
  India but I couldn't tell you why...

  http://couthiecouturegallery.fotopic.net/<http://couthiecouturegallery.fotopic.net/>

  They're yummy to look at, even if you don't feel you
  can help :-)

  Katherine the vague, in a very sunny and cold Edinburgh

  "A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
  annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright



  ___________________________________________________________ 
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> As to the banners, I'd need a little more information as to
> dimensions. I would suggest these may not be banners, rather orphry bands,
> definitely ecclesiastical.

Ah, that was my first thought too, but it was just a hunch so kept quiet. 

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Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 13:01:35 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Links RE: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thank you Bjarne but no, this is not the one.

It was a men's waist coat and gloves from the 17th century. It is
buried in my collection of glove links that I really need to clean
out.

But thank you for the link! Lovely dress. :)

Chiara

On Wed, February 8, 2006 11:08 am, Bjarne og Leif Drews said:
> Hi Chiara,
> The danish wedding? Is it the reconstrukted renaissance wedding
> dress from
> Kronborg?
> The link is here:
> http://www.ses.dk/sofiegalleri/
> But there is no link to any gloves, or did i miss something?
>
> Bjarne
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 5:45 PM
> Subject: Links RE: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
>
>
>> Still looking for the danish wedding outfit with glove link,
>> sorry. :(
>>
>> http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk/index.cfm?fuseAction=SM.nav&UUID=D69CF392-BC32-4DBD-8CBCA2C0FF8D78DF
>>
>> http://www.davidrumsey.com/amico/amico934716-18548.html
>>
>> http://www.geocities.com/stiobhard/glove.html
>>
>> http://www.gloveassociation.org
>>
>> http://search.concealedgarments.org/highlights.jsp;jsessionid=2ey8fk54bf5yi
>>
>> This image of a glove:
>>
>> http://search.concealedgarments.org/results.jsp?highlight=4
>>
>>
>> Gloves
>> London, Batsford. 1982. Cummings, Valerie.
>> (Starts at 1600. Cover Elizabethan gloves, and has reproduction of
>> mid-17th-century patterns for gloves)
>>
>>
>> Compte de l'Argenterie du Roi annee 1610: Rendus, par Me. Pierre
>> Dela Bruyere Argentier. Sacre du Roy Louis Treize. A Pierre Robin
>> Marchand de Drap - et Jean Royer Marchand drapier la somme de
>> 17316
>> - 17 - 69...pour les fournitures qu'ils ont faits pour ; Paris C.
>> 1715 [Paris, c. 1715]
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Franchesca Havas
----------------------------------------

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Child-friendly sword
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Kids I know generally have wood, padded and then covered with leather. 
Works for both swords and axes, and looks period as well as being 
relatively safe.

Jean


Shane & Sheridan <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca> wrote
>Hello everyone!
>
>I'm forwarding this on behalf of someone on another list; I figured folks
>here would have an idea or two. :-)
>------------------------------
>Snip to relevent question:
>
>> On another note, friends of mine are looking for a safe dagger / short
>sword for the enjoyment of their young son.  (Safe - as in will not puncture
>or perforate another person, causing welts upon older brother is considered
>acceptable use)   They do not want the cheap plastic junk found at
>halloween.  I vaguely remember someone posting on a forum about a rubber
>dagger, seems to me it was made out of a similar material to that of hockey
>pucks.  But unfortunately I cannot seem to find where I saw it.  If anyone
>knows what I'm talking about, please let me know.
>
>------------------------------
>Thanks in advance!
>
>Sheridan
>
>
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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> I'm trying to translate instructions from _The Cut of Men's Clothes_ for
> the assembly of an 18th century coat. (page 88 of the recent hardcover
> edition)
>
> "The backs are joined together by backstitching on the wrong side and then
> fine-drawing on the right, working from the skirt opening upwards."

Dawn, Bjarne,

I assumed that norah Waugh was using modern (possibly tailor's)
terminology to describe what she saw.  The expression wasnt in my
jargon, either.

I took it to mean blind catch stitching.  I got an mid-19thc mans
frock coat in my collection out and examined it. (Oldest relevant
thing I have.)  It has that same small inserted bit i the skirting,
near the CB.  The amount of skirting is obvious much less than the
1750s.  The tailor of this 19th c jacket, formed the pleat, then,
working from the inside, did a catch-stitch abt 1/2 to 1 cm from the
fold to permanently shape the pleat.  (Cant quite tell without ripping
the lining.)
Cut of Men's Clothes says to so this working from the hem towards the
waist. I my experiments, I discovered that doing so keeps the hang in
the right spot as errors magnify going hem-wards.
Here's an amazingly bad ASCII drawing:

                           inside of garment
                                             /------cb------\ right side pleat
 catch stitches at this point ^    \               /
------------------------------------------------             
-------------------------

                             outside of garment, viewer would be here

Clear as mud?

Originally, I thought it might be tailor's jargon for a french seam,
but, as I had cut the jacket, the skirt almost-CB seam was hidden
behind the pleats.

Why dont you ask the Savile Row guy who runs to the cutting &
tailoring blog?  Post the answer for us, too.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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Hi Marc,
Gosh thanks a lot. You have made my days a head now. Lady Herringtons gloves 
has bullion roses........BULLION ROSES..............
Tada tada..........
Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Marc Carlson" <marccarlson20@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 6:34 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: 17th Century Glove Pictures?


> It's somewhat dated but this might have something of use...
>
> http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/histshoe/redfern/index.htm
>
> Marc
>
>
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Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 11:36:06 -0800 (PST)
From: Leslie Mundy <LizzieM@rocketmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Child-friendly sword (Shane & Sheridan)
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Hello, Sheridan.

Mr.Olan Knight of Knighthawk Armoury can probably help
you find just what you need in a latex weapon.

Here's the link:

http://www.latex-weaponry.com/

--Leslie



Leslie Mundy, DCC  Office Hours: M-W-F Noon-5:00
John Carter Brown Library, Box 1894, Brown University
Providence, RI 

Just think...
"Somewhere a butterfly, dreaming that it is Chuang Chou,
flutters its wings and creates a distant hurricane."
http://NewMoon2000.tripod.com/oneway/indexnavigator.html

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From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fine drawing?
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I  am  going to hazzard a guess here as a seamstress, not as an
authority  on  18th century men's wear.  I would think that the
fine  drawing may mean a fine gathering stitch used to make the
upper  layer  lay  flat.  I have done many curved seams though,
and  never  needed  to  use that  method,  but  it does help in
getting  sleeves  into  armholes  (hidden  gathering stitch, of
course).  Just a possibility.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
--- "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 17:32:19 +0100
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fine drawing?
Hi Dawn,
Gosh  i  never  read  that  chapter,  i surely will now. I dont
understand this
fine-drawing  thing either. Never heard it. Dont you think they
just mean
that  you have to press the seams to the sides and iron? I have
never seen
any stitches used on the right side of the back pieces.
In  the  american  book  Costume  Close  Up  there  are  sewing
instruktions two of a
mans coat. Only types of stitches used is: back stitches, point
Ă¡ rabattre
sous la main and slanted hemming stitches.
Bjarne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 4:48 AM
Subject: [h-cost] fine drawing?
>  I'm  trying to translate instructions from _The Cut of Men's
Clothes_ for
>  the assembly of an 18th century coat. (page 88 of the recent
hardcover
> edition)
>
>  "The backs are joined together by backstitching on the wrong
side and then
>  fine-drawing  on  the  right, working from the skirt opening
upwards."
>
>
> Backstitching I understand, but "fine-drawing" has me lost. I
found two
>  references  online  that  seem to suggest it is a method for
joining fabric
>  by  butting the edges together, but that doesn't work with a
seam that's
> already backstitched... does it?
>
> Can anyone clarify this for me?
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
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Hello again!

As I said earlier, I don't actually know of a book on the "history of fastenings", and I haven't specifically researched the questions you ask, but I am chronically unable to stick to one outfit/time-period in my costuming, so here's an overview of what I've picked up about the subject:

I haven't done much research before the 1400s so I can't talk about anything before then, however in the _Museum of London: Clothing and Textiles_ book it shows fabric buttons on the sleeves of the gothic fitted dresses (usually referred to as cotehardies in the SCA). The book has enough instructions for how to make the fabric buttons, that I have done so based simply on that book. Somewhere I read that metal buttons could/were used on the front of the over-dresses (but I can't come up with an extant example off the top of my head) but that the buttons were so expensive that sometimes people would not attach the metal buttons but instead lace the buttons onto the dress via holes such as for lacing up the front of the dress. Unfortunately I can't remember _where_ I read this so I have no idea how reliable the source is. The _Museum of London_ book also shows hand-made eyelets for lacing down the front closure of the gothic fitted dress. I'm sure Robin has many more sources fo!
 r this period then I do :-)

Italian Rennisance (~1480-1530) seems to be mostly lacing for women's dresses (both front/side openings and sleeves) based off of Elizabeth Birbari's _Dress in Italian Painting: 1460-1500_ and Jen Thompson's research http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/flornotes/flornotes.html . Sometimes the buttons were laced though decorative metal eyelet-things (http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/earlyflor/3flor5.html) rather then thread bound eyelet holes. Occasionally the paintings use gold coloring for the eyelet holes which suggests metal eyelets, however I don't think there are any extant, and metal eyelets were first patented somewhere in the 1825-40 range (and don't come into use for corsets until then). 

Hooks and eyes were used extensively in the dresses Janet Arnold studied in the late 1500s, and I seem to remember a picture from the late-1400s early-1500s showing hook and eyes at the neck. I'm sure it's been discussed on this list before, but I'm not coming up with any web links to it. The hooks and eyes look very similar to modern hooks and eyes, though a bit heavier to my eye. Many of the buttons in the dresses Arnold studies are thread covered -- there is a description for how to do it: http://www.vertetsable.com/demos_buttons.htm I have not used these instructions myself, but a friend did. She said they took ~20 minutes per button to make. And lacing is still used to close some bodices (e.g. the Elenore de Toledo burial dress).

At Costume College 2003 there was a class on Medieval and Rennisance fastenings, which was fascinating, but there were neither handouts, nor can I find a reference to it on-line, so I can't tell you who the teacher was...Not very helpful, I know!

Fastenings for women's regency dress are predominantly drawstrings, pins and some buttons. The drawers (if worn) are tied together, the chemise has a drawstring (in what little info I could find for chemises), there aren't many extant petticoat/under dress things, but the one c1825 in _History of Underclothes_ by the Cunningtons' buttons together. All three closure methods can be seen on the outer dress, plus frogs for women's coats. My extant 1824 bodice has both a drawstring around the neck and buttons down the back.

Fastenings for women's Victorian (1860s and 1870s) dress uses hooks and eyes far more then you would expect (there are times when the bodice closure is hooks and eyes but the bodice has buttons sewn on for decoration).  However you do see back lacing for some ball gowns, and occasionally front lacing for dinner dresses, but most closures are center front and either hooks and eyes or buttons. The one petticoat I have from this period has both a drawstring and a button (however I'm not 100% convinced that the drawstring wasn't added later - I am suspicious that the petticoat was used in a theatre production...). Chemises may have no closure, or may be buttoned. I can't remember about drawers...

Gibson Girl (1890s) through teens (based on my small collection of vintage women's garments) uses both hooks and eyes and snaps on the dresses. Buttons seem to be mostly decorative, though I do not own a tailored suit from that period, and I would guess those used button closures. FYI, there are many books that cover buttons in this time period, as they were a decorative element. I have 2 petticoats from this period, both have drawstring waists. The corset cover I have has a button front, and the butt-pad I have has ties for around the waist.

Hope that helps!
	-sunny

P.S. I do not know when buttons + loops were used -- all button references here are to buttons and buttonholes.


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] fine drawing
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I perhaps didnt realise wich part of the suit you have read that fine 
drawing should be used.
Is it for the slash you make at the top of the back vent opening, to make an 
extra pleat? Then she perhaps is meaning that this seam should be very 
accurately made with tiny stitches, to hold well, as there only is very 
little seam allowance here. For my gustavian suit, wich has this slash and 
extra pleat, i whipstitched the parts together, with very fine stitches. It 
perhaps is one of the most difficult places on a coat to make.........

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: fine drawing?
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>> I'm trying to translate instructions from _The Cut of Men's Clothes_ for
>> the assembly of an 18th century coat. (page 88 of the recent hardcover
>> edition)
>>
>> "The backs are joined together by backstitching on the wrong side and 
>> then
>> fine-drawing on the right, working from the skirt opening upwards."

The only definitions to fine-drawing that I can find are these:

To repair a garment by invisible mending

Fine-draw: To sew or close up, as a rent or seam, so delicately that joining 
cannot be noticed.

 ... to mend (torn edges) by drawing together with invisible stitches.


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Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> I perhaps didnt realise wich part of the suit you have read that fine 
> drawing should be used.
> Is it for the slash you make at the top of the back vent opening, to 
> make an extra pleat? 


It's for joining the center back seam above the pleats "working from the 
skirt opening upwards". The instructions for the pleats are in the next 
paragraph.



Dawn



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: 17th Century Glove Pictures?
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Quoting Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>:

> Hi Marc,
> Gosh thanks a lot. You have made my days a head now. Lady Herringtons 
> gloves has bullion roses........BULLION ROSES..............

Oh, wow!  Is there a date for those?  Looks like it *might* be late 16th
C.

Susan

BTW, Marc, your link to "Hawking glove of Henry VIII is broken.  :-(


-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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On Wed, 8 Feb 2006 sunshine_buchler@agilent.com wrote:

> I haven't done much research before the 1400s so I can't talk about
> anything before then, however in the _Museum of London: Clothing and
> Textiles_ book it shows fabric buttons on the sleeves of the gothic
> fitted dresses (usually referred to as cotehardies in the SCA). The
> book has enough instructions for how to make the fabric buttons, that
> I have done so based simply on that book. Somewhere I read that metal
> buttons could/were used on the front of the over-dresses (but I can't
> come up with an extant example off the top of my head) but that the
> buttons were so expensive that sometimes people would not attach the
> metal buttons but instead lace the buttons onto the dress via holes
> such as for lacing up the front of the dress. Unfortunately I can't
> remember _where_ I read this so I have no idea how reliable the source
> is. The _Museum of London_ book also shows hand-made eyelets for
> lacing down the front closure of the gothic fitted dress. I'm sure
> Robin has many more sources for this period then I do :-)

Maybe not, but I'll elaborate where I can ;-) 

First, I think it's important to distinguish layers here. Buttoning down
the front of a dress seems to be typical only of the outer layer (the
layer that might actually have been called a cotehardie in French) but not
the inner layer (the fitted supportive dress, which could be worn alone or
with an overdress). Laced fronts seem pretty much universal on the
supportive (inner or single) layer. Sometimes the lacing is visible in
images; sometimes it is not, which could simply mean that the artists did
not conventionally render it, not that it was necessarily invisible to the
eye. (I have never seen evidence of a back lacing of the supportive dress;
if anyone ever finds such evidence, I'd like to see it.)

Next, you need to distinguish time and place. Buttons down the front of
overdresses seem to be common only in certain periods and regions -- I
have this sense of seeing them much more often in English sources than
French, for instance, and more often in the earlier versions of the fitted
overdresses (say, to 1390 or so) than in the later ones.

There also seems to be a regional/temporal variance in preference for
whether to use buttons to fit the sleeves, and how many/how far up the
arm. You can see a few buttons at the wrist or partway up the forearm
quite early in the 14th c., with the upper half of the sleeve not fitted;
then later you see the buttons go up past the elbow, making the entire
sleeve fitted. Sometimes there are no visible buttons, suggesting that
lacing or sewing-in was used to tighten the sleeves to the arm; in fact,
buttons on the sleeve seem relatively rare after 1400 or so, but the
sleeves remain extremely tight.

The next distinction to make is class. The buttons you use would reflect
the money you have to spend. The fabric buttons in the MOL's "Textiles and
Clothing" book have gotten so much attention that some people don't
realize that there's a much larger sample set of surviving buttons of
other materials: metal, bone, horn (I think). Many examples of these are
reproduced in the MOL's "Dress Accessories" book. I'd have to look up the
various options, but I would expect wood to have been equally likely.
Also, bear in mind that we don't know what kinds of garments the fabric
buttons (or, for that matter, the laced eyelets) from the MOL book came
from -- it is probably more likely that they are from a lower-class tunic
than from a middle- or upper-class fitted dress, and equally likely to be
from a man's garment as a woman's.  If you've got an upper-class dress,
you might want to think twice before doing fabric buttons. In particular,
I don't think I'd choose fabric buttons for the front of a buttoned fitted
overdress, which is an expensive garment; anyone wearing it could have
afforded metal or another material.

Bottom line: To determine whether and how to use buttons, lacing, etc.,
figure out what place, time, style, and class you're focusing on, and look
specifically at sources that are the closest possible match. Remember that
even in one style (in this case the fitted dress of 1350-1450) there are
numerous variations in such things as bust height, skirt width, and
neckline depth, as well as button/lacing use; ideally you would use a
combination of features that are all consistent with a single
period/place/class, not mixed-and-matched over a hundred-year stretch.
(People of the period would no doubt have been as aware of these
differences as we are of things like modern hemline length or waist height
or shoulder size, which all vary over the years in modern fashions.)

Oh, about those buttons attached through eyelet holes: This was apparently
a means of attaching the buttons in some garments. The buttons were not
sewn to the cloth, but were put through eyelets and then threaded through
a ribbon on the inside. As far as I know the other part of the garment had
conventional buttonholes, and was buttoned up as usual. It's suggested
that this made it easier to remove the buttons for washing or for transfer
to another garment (or to sell or give away). In any case, it does seem
this would be a way of reducing wear to the cloth, and a logical move from
the existing technology of lacing (which goes back at least to the 12th
c.) to buttons.

> Hooks and eyes were used extensively in the dresses Janet Arnold
> studied in the late 1500s, and I seem to remember a picture from the
> late-1400s early-1500s showing hook and eyes at the neck. 

The image was of a famous court fool, I believe, but I forget who and
when.

> P.S. I do not know when buttons + loops were used -- all button
> references here are to buttons and buttonholes.

I have never seen any evidence for them in the Middle Ages, though a lot
of people seem to assume them as a default. I have no idea why.

--Robin

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Hi all, I forget who it was who was interested in a 19th C Pinker.  There is another up on eBay  right now.  You will find it listed under Sewing tools.  This looks to be pretty much the same as the one I found two weeks ago.

Kathleen
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Hello!

De-lurking for a moment . . .

While perusing the web, I stumbled onto something called Italian linen,
which can be found here:

http://tinyurl.com/a826d
Does anyone know how this would compare to Irish linen? Or is it just a
different name for the same thing? 

Kate McClure
Grand Pooh-Bah
Beyond Reality Costumers Guild
www.brcg.org

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Hello again!

As I said earlier, I don't actually know of a book on the "history of fastenings", and I haven't specifically researched the questions you ask, but I am chronically unable to stick to one outfit/time-period in my costuming, so here's an overview of what I've picked up about the subject:

I haven't done much research before the 1400s so I can't talk about anything before then, however in the _Museum of London: Clothing and Textiles_ book it shows fabric buttons on the sleeves of the gothic fitted dresses (usually referred to as cotehardies in the SCA). The book has enough instructions for how to make the fabric buttons, that I have done so based simply on that book. Somewhere I read that metal buttons could/were used on the front of the over-dresses (but I can't come up with an extant example off the top of my head) but that the buttons were so expensive that sometimes people would not attach the metal buttons but instead lace the buttons onto the dress via holes such as for lacing up the front of the dress. Unfortunately I can't remember _where_ I read this so I have no idea how reliable the source is. The _Museum of London_ book also shows hand-made eyelets for lacing down the front closure of the gothic fitted dress. I'm sure Robin has many more sources fo!
 r this period then I do :-)

Italian Rennisance (~1480-1530) seems to be mostly lacing for women's dresses (both front/side openings and sleeves) based off of Elizabeth Birbari's _Dress in Italian Painting: 1460-1500_ and Jen Thompson's research http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/flornotes/flornotes.html . Sometimes the buttons were laced though decorative metal eyelet-things (http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/earlyflor/3flor5.html) rather then thread bound eyelet holes. Occasionally the paintings use gold coloring for the eyelet holes which suggests metal eyelets, however I don't think there are any extant, and metal eyelets were first patented somewhere in the 1825-40 range (and don't come into use for corsets until then). 

Hooks and eyes were used extensively in the dresses Janet Arnold studied in the late 1500s, and I seem to remember a picture from the late-1400s early-1500s showing hook and eyes at the neck. I'm sure it's been discussed on this list before, but I'm not coming up with any web links to it. The hooks and eyes look very similar to modern hooks and eyes, though a bit heavier to my eye. Many of the buttons in the dresses Arnold studies are thread covered -- there is a description for how to do it: http://www.vertetsable.com/demos_buttons.htm I have not used these instructions myself, but a friend did. She said they took ~20 minutes per button to make. And lacing is still used to close some bodices (e.g. the Elenore de Toledo burial dress).

At Costume College 2003 there was a class on Medieval and Rennisance fastenings, which was fascinating, but there were neither handouts, nor can I find a reference to it on-line, so I can't tell you who the teacher was...Not very helpful, I know!

Fastenings for women's regency dress are predominantly drawstrings, pins and some buttons. The drawers (if worn) are tied together, the chemise has a drawstring (in what little info I could find for chemises), there aren't many extant petticoat/under dress things, but the one c1825 in _History of Underclothes_ by the Cunningtons' buttons together. All three closure methods can be seen on the outer dress, plus frogs for women's coats. My extant 1824 bodice has both a drawstring around the neck and buttons down the back.

Fastenings for women's Victorian (1860s and 1870s) dress uses hooks and eyes far more then you would expect (there are times when the bodice closure is hooks and eyes but the bodice has buttons sewn on for decoration).  However you do see back lacing for some ball gowns, and occasionally front lacing for dinner dresses, but most closures are center front and either hooks and eyes or buttons. The one petticoat I have from this period has both a drawstring and a button (however I'm not 100% convinced that the drawstring wasn't added later - I am suspicious that the petticoat was used in a theatre production...). Chemises may have no closure, or may be buttoned. I can't remember about drawers...

Gibson Girl (1890s) through teens (based on my small collection of vintage women's garments) uses both hooks and eyes and snaps on the dresses. Buttons seem to be mostly decorative, though I do not own a tailored suit from that period, and I would guess those used button closures. FYI, there are many books that cover buttons in this time period, as they were a decorative element. I have 2 petticoats from this period, both have drawstring waists. The corset cover I have has a button front, and the butt-pad I have has ties for around the waist.

Hope that helps!
	-sunny

P.S. I do not know when buttons + loops were used -- all button references here are to buttons and buttonholes.


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 21:07:25 +0100
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Subject: [h-cost] glove cuffs
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Hi,
Forgive my ignorance, but i have no idea, and therefore ask stupid. But how 
was these scalloped cuffs for gloves made. Did they have wire in the edge, 
to make it stand?
Does anybody know wich kind of seam is used to turn these scallopes?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
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I'm wondering about the Wife of Bath and what she's got on her head in 
the Canterbury Tales:

"Hir coverchiefs ful fyne weren of ground,
I dorste swere they weyeden ten pound
That on a Sonday weren upon hir heed."

Mainly I'm wondering about the use of the word "ground" in the first 
line.  I've seen a suggestion that this could translate to mean 
"texture", as in "her coverchiefs were of a very fine texture".

The OED doesn't seem to offer any goodies, but perhaps I missed 
something--the entries for "ground" are quite long!  Does anyone have 
other information about this?

Thanks,
Melanie Schuessler

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Child-friendly sword
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 These are inexpensive and plastic, but look pretty good:
 
http://www.anytimecostumes.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?
 
Don't forget the question mark, it's part of the url.
 
Tea Rose
------------------------------

From: "Shane & Sheridan" <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
Subject: [h-cost] Child-friendly sword
------------------------------
Snip to relevent question:

> On another note, friends of mine are looking for a safe dagger / short
sword for the enjoyment of their young son.  
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From: ruthanneb@mindspring.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: fine drawing?
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Speaking in ignorance except as a costumer who worries about vulnerable seam-ends....
If "fine drawing" doesn't refer to what Cynthia describes (and for costumes in this general period I have done those catch-stiches to stabilize the pleat),
then...
it might be a reinforcing stitching buried in the seam crease. 
I do this at exactly this point, the lower end of the CB seam just above the pleat opening.
It has to be done from the outside.
I take a small running stitch (small but not the same length as the stitching already in the seam because doubling the thread thickness in the stitching holes would be counterproductive), alternating stitch placement from one side of the seam to the other. I've never tried an AASCI drawing before, but--

assuming a vertical seam in the center of this diagram, the stitches would run
                       I_
                        _I
                       I_
                        _I
with the vertical part of the stitch inside the seam turnback and the horizontal part bridging the seam. Even if this stitch is done with double thread (which I use) it is virtually invisible once pulled (drawn) snug, but it adds good reinforcement to the vulnerable base of the seam, which can subjected to stress if the wearer sits wrong or if the fit of the body of the jacket is close-fitting. And as the quoted directions suggest, this stitching has to be done from the open end of the seam to the closed end so it doesn't distort the lie of the seam.

I have no idea what this kind of stitching is called, but if somebody says "Yes, I bet that's fine-drawing," I'll willingly call it that!

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
-----Original Message-----
>From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
>Sent: Feb 8, 2006 2:19 PM
>To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] re: fine drawing?
>
>> I'm trying to translate instructions from _The Cut of Men's Clothes_ for
>> the assembly of an 18th century coat. (page 88 of the recent hardcover
>> edition)
>>
>> "The backs are joined together by backstitching on the wrong side and then
>> fine-drawing on the right, working from the skirt opening upwards."
>
>Dawn, Bjarne,
>
>I assumed that norah Waugh was using modern (possibly tailor's)
>terminology to describe what she saw.  The expression wasnt in my
>jargon, either.
>
>I took it to mean blind catch stitching.  I got an mid-19thc mans
>frock coat in my collection out and examined it. (Oldest relevant
>thing I have.)  It has that same small inserted bit i the skirting,
>near the CB.  The amount of skirting is obvious much less than the
>1750s.  The tailor of this 19th c jacket, formed the pleat, then,
>working from the inside, did a catch-stitch abt 1/2 to 1 cm from the
>fold to permanently shape the pleat.  (Cant quite tell without ripping
>the lining.)
>Cut of Men's Clothes says to so this working from the hem towards the
>waist. I my experiments, I discovered that doing so keeps the hang in
>the right spot as errors magnify going hem-wards.
>Here's an amazingly bad ASCII drawing:
>
>                           inside of garment
>                                             /------cb------\ right side pleat
> catch stitches at this point ^    \               /
>------------------------------------------------             
>-------------------------
>
>                             outside of garment, viewer would be here
>
>Clear as mud?
>
>Originally, I thought it might be tailor's jargon for a french seam,
>but, as I had cut the jacket, the skirt almost-CB seam was hidden
>behind the pleats.
>
>Why dont you ask the Savile Row guy who runs to the cutting &
>tailoring blog?  Post the answer for us, too.
>--cin
>Cynthia Barnes
>CinBarnes@gmail.com
>
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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Embroidery dating
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This sounds really exciting. What an experience to be able to see and handle such stuff!

..... and am I the only one in a peculiar mood today, or did anyone else look at the subject line and think, "Embroidery dating -- how to help your embroidery find its perfect soul mate?" I think it's entirely too close to Valentine's Day....



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Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 23:22:25 +0000 (GMT)
From: katherine sanders <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Embroidery dating - more info on the banners.
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Thank you to everyone who has helped so far: there is
a lot of gold work that fits in with the or nue
technique, so here is a more detailed description.  (I
have rejigged the photos - 1 to 8 is banner one, 9
onwards banner two).

There are two banners and I forgot to measure them
when I 'met' them on Monday. They are maybe less then
1m long and no more than 25-30cm wide. One has been
surrounded by braid and velvet which I do not think is
original but could be old-ish.  

What I found intriguing is the construction which you
can partly see because the linen backing is loose
where the thread has disappeared. There are two
banners, one of which is more complex than the other.

1. Photos 1 to 8. This has not been bordered by the
velvet. There are TWO layers of fabric embroidered -
the top one has the geometric design and stumpwork, as
well as the couched gold thread. Some thread is
silver? (and has turned black) but there is a lot of
gold. The background around the figures is in a
diamond or herringbone textured pattern, while a lot
of the figures has been sewn through the two layers in
the colourful silk which you can see in pictures on
the figures clothing and hair. Stumpwork forms the
uprights of the architectural columns but I think this
was covered in metal thread - it looks like crazy fine
wire now blackened. The bottom figure which is only
waist length is part of a different piece of fabric -
you can feel the join - and there is no 'temple'
design above it. Also the colour of the thread is
different. The cords down the border edge of this
panel are couched down and you can see bits of gold on
them.  The shots of the 'ghostly' figures are actually
the back of this panel, rather than one unfinished.
The silk hasn't faded here and there are some
shockingly strong crimsons as well as peachy reds.
Between the two layers of this is a crackled paste
which seems to join and stiffen the original fabric -
linen?

Banner two has been joined loosely to the green velvet
which is worn in places so re-used. I'm not aware of
velvet vestments in my own (Orthodox) church but
perhaps other traditions vary? There is no stumpwork
an much less gold. The style of the haloes is very
different and the background although still geometric,
is not so elaborate as the first. Here there are also
two layers joined by a (now cracked) paste but I don't
want to open it more than a few stitches which have
already dissolved.

I hope this is of help for those knowledgeable souls
who've been kind enough to help so far!

Thanks again,
Katherine


"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright


		
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wife of Bath's headcovering
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On Wed, 8 Feb 2006, Melanie Schuessler wrote:

> I'm wondering about the Wife of Bath and what she's got on her head in 
> the Canterbury Tales:
> 
> "Hir coverchiefs ful fyne weren of ground,
> I dorste swere they weyeden ten pound
> That on a Sonday weren upon hir heed."
> 
> Mainly I'm wondering about the use of the word "ground" in the first 
> line.  I've seen a suggestion that this could translate to mean 
> "texture", as in "her coverchiefs were of a very fine texture".

I've always read it as meaning "of a very fine material"; probably echoing
in my mind with the use you hear in "embroidery ground" as meaning the
base fabric on which embroidery is done.

I have no idea whether this reading is justified; I've never much thought
about it!

--Robin

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I  have been indulging guilty pleasures. 
 
 
 
I got the newly issued DVD of "Dune"....another film much hated but I love  
because I don't find it confusing [and I've never read the books] and again  
beautifully and perfectly designed by Bob Ringwood. Each planet has a look that  
has one foot firmly planted in an historical period. The Emperor's court 
looks  like a space age Spanish Renaissance court. The doomed House Atrates bears 
more  than a passing resemblance to Nicolas and Alexandria. The nasty House  
Harkonan is all plastic and protective wear but the Baron's reevers and collar  
on his vinyl coat look like a cross between Napoleon and Mad King George.
 
 [The "extended version" sux and is kinda like "Dune for  Dummies"...with 
everything explained to you by a narrator who sounds like a  cigar smoking 
trucker [instead of the Emperor's daughter like in the original  version. All so 
unnecessary. I liked that some things were left hanging....or  just implied]
 
 
Anyway...with its story of the oppression of a desert people because their  
planet is the only place to find the most valuable substance in the universe,  
and their holy war to gain their independence from cruel occupiers, it all had 
 very creepy overtones it didn't have when it came out. And "Arakis"...the 
name  of the planet, is way too close to "Iraq". Yikes!
 

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Subject: [h-cost] re: fine drawing
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>I perhaps didnt realise wich part of the suit you have read that fine
>drawing should be used.
>Is it for the slash you make at the top of the back vent opening, to make an
>extra pleat?

I'm not sure either. All it says is "the back". Rather vague.

>Then she perhaps is meaning that this seam should be very
>accurately made with tiny stitches, to hold well, as there only is very
>little seam allowance here.

Waugh is quoting, sometimes paraphrasing, a mid-18th c tailor's
manual. Fine drawing doesnt appear to be small stitches or
reinforcement. Waugh/Garsault usually says buckram and or interlining
if that's what she/he means. it may well be worth the original
questioner's time to find Garsault's book.  Perhaps he defines the
term.

Lalah's comment on ever so slight gather stitches may make sense at
this slash area.  I didnt use gathers as the tops of the pleats are
supposed to lie very flat. The slash (hidden by folding pleats to the
inside where it becomes the tiniest of holes) is concealed by a fancy
button.

I have a different crazy idea:  suppose Waugh is talking about the
center back seam, not the skirt vent.  If you backstitches the seam by
hand and pressed it open, the the CB, which takes alot of stress,
would only be held by 1 line of stitches.  It would be weak.

If she means, press the CB seam to the right, then blind stitch or
catch stitch the 3 layers (garment & 2 seam allowances) then there is
an element of reinforcement.
Seems like it would make the seam oddly stiff.  This is not my
favorite interpretation of the p88 paragraph.  I chose to make the
interlining strong and capable of taking all the stress of wearing.

>... For my gustavian suit, wich has this slash and
>extra pleat, i whipstitched the parts together, with very fine stitches. It
>perhaps is one of the most difficult places on a coat to make.........

Very very true!  I covered the slashed edges with the teensiest band
of silk organza to contain those stray silk satin fibres of the
garment fabric.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <21605220.1139435953984.JavaMail.root@mswamui-thinleaf.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: fine drawing?
Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2006 11:36:38 +1300
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> I do this at exactly this point, the lower end of the CB seam just above
the pleat opening.
> It has to be done from the outside.

> assuming a vertical seam in the center of this diagram, the stitches would
run
>                        I_
>                         _I
>                        I_
>                         _I
> I have no idea what this kind of stitching is called, but if somebody says
"Yes, I bet that's fine-drawing," I'll willingly call it that!

I have seen it refered to as ladder stitch. I use it quite often, and was my
first though when the initial instructions were to work from the outside.
It's used to sew teddy bears and the like after you have stuffed them;) I
also used it to join tabs to my doublet bodice. And sleeves to bodices if
made up seperately;)

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com
6 days of digests to go through... oh boy;)



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert
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If you go to ebay's Collectibles/Vintage Sewing category, without going 
down into Tools, and search on pinking machine as two words (not a 
phrase), searching for those words in the listings as well as the 
titles, there are about ten pinking machines are listed. Which is about 
the usual number for any given day on eBay.  I've thought of getting one 
off and on.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

> Hi all, I forget who it was who was interested in a 19th C Pinker.  There is another up on eBay  right now.  You will find it listed under Sewing tools.  This looks to be pretty much the same as the one I found two weeks ago.
> 
> Kathleen
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert
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Status: RO

Thanks Fran, I love the one I got and didn't think of some of the other ways
of listing to find  one of the same for other people who might like to gain
one of these.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 5:22 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert


> If you go to ebay's Collectibles/Vintage Sewing category, without going
> down into Tools, and search on pinking machine as two words (not a
> phrase), searching for those words in the listings as well as the
> titles, there are about ten pinking machines are listed. Which is about
> the usual number for any given day on eBay.  I've thought of getting one
> off and on.
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
> Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
>
> > Hi all, I forget who it was who was interested in a 19th C Pinker.
There is another up on eBay  right now.  You will find it listed under
Sewing tools.  This looks to be pretty much the same as the one I found two
weeks ago.
> >
> > Kathleen
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blocking a Wool Felt Hat
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Status: RO

I've also had good luck putting a wet felt hat into a ziplock bag,
still slightly open* (a closed ziplock will explode), and microwaving
it for 10-15 seconds. It skips the whole using the kettle thing but
REMEMBER steam is HOT. The hat will be hot too.

If it's an old hat you can wash it is before you steam/microwave it so
you're not putting a dirty or stained hat on your head. Wash gently
with shampoo, squeezing the water through. Rinse thoroughly.

Once it's wet and hot, gently pull the felt onto the block. You may
need some strength but don't tug. Wet felt is more fragile than dry
felt and it will tear. And then you make a smaller hat with it.

Best of luck. Making hats is really fun!

LynnD

On 2/6/06, kelly grant <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com> wrote:
> If you have a wool hat, it's incredibly easy to steam it to the shape you
> want!  You need to find something that will be a good shape for a block,
> like a flower pot. Make sure it's a good size to match your head size.
> Remove all the addition hat stuff from inside the felt, like the hat band
> and such.  Then using you kettle, steam the inside of the felt and then pull
> it down over the block. Keep trying until you get the desired shape.  the
> felt will move around quite a bit!
>
> Have fun!
> Kelly in Nova Scotia
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
> To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 10:48 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Blocking a Wool Felt Hat
>
>
> > I'm going to try and make a Tudor Style tall hat with the pleated crown.
> > I
> > went to the local GoodWill and they had a hat that fitted perfectly of
> > 100%
> > wool felt. Problem is that it is a domed crown rather than square.  Is
> > there
> > a way to steam that crown and get it fairly fat?
> >
> > I intend to play with an thick interlining that I have to get the brim
> > shape, then I'll cut the actual hat brim.
> >
> > Does this sound reasonable, or does it sound like it will be more work
> > than
> > simply creating the under-structure out the interfacing and paper and
> > going
> > from there?
> >
> >
> > Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
> > Never attribute to malice what can as easily
> > be attributed to simple social ineptness
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert
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I've been tempted, off and on, to bid on one of those crank models for 
pinking trimmings (I don't generally like to finish seams that way). 
That's why I've been reassured to see there's always a good selection on 
eBay (although I'm sure some of them are rusty and/or dull).

What I really want though, is a choice of shapes beyond the standard 
rather shallow zigzag.  Has anyone found a modern or historic tool that 
really works well for that?

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://wwww.lavoltapress.com

Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

> Thanks Fran, I love the one I got and didn't think of some of the other ways
> of listing to find  one of the same for other people who might like to gain
> one of these.
> Kathleen
>
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Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:

>Perhaps I was not clear enough - when I was talking about petticoats, I meant mainly the 19th century of course. The fact is, I was asking if anyone knew a web page or a book where I could read something about fastenings in common - which kind of fastening was used in the middle ages, what in renaissance etc. 
>  For example I'd like to know when did people start to use lace as a fastening - and when buttons. and how did the buttons actually look like? Were they from the same fabric as the garment, or could they have been made of metal? For such questions it is hard to find anywhere an answer.
>  
>
>Hi. Part of the reason is that, first, there may not be an existing starting date known for what you ask, and second, different items looked different and were made of differing materials as time went on. There are periods in which, looking at illustrations, sculptures, etc., one can determine that a certain item of clothing had begun to, lets say, be fastened by being laced, but that does not mean that the technique of lacing, for example, shoes did not predate it...Different garments and clothing items have come and gone in terms of fastening. For example, there are small shoe buckles being worn on some styles of shoes up until the 1530s or so, then they go out of style up until the late 1650s 0r early 1660s. Another example would be toggles, which, for a while, were common fasteners on shoes and perhaps purses, but were never (or, at best, rarely) seen on clothing (of which I am aware)until after the periods I reenact, although their close cousins, frogs, were. Another e!
 xample would be button shapes, which changed from different historical periods as well as cultures.
>
    Any study of fastenings that wasn't done from an archaeological background (IMO), such as that book on the history of striped clothing and it's social meanings (I can't remember the title, not that it matters in the vein of this discussion)will, by it's nature, be rather incomplete and inconclusive. Most authors feel the need, one assumes, in order to sell the book to a wider audience, to make social commentary, which takes away from the purely scholarly aspect of such a work. Your best scenario, in this situation, would be to look at things on a case by case basis.There are many experts (or at least educated amateurs)within this list that can quote chapter and verse on their own areas of specialty, and assist you in their own ways. Good Luck, Mike T. 



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>From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
>BTW, Marc, your link to "Hawking glove of Henry VIII is broken.  :-(

I'll try to get it fixed tomorrow.  Thanks for the heads up.

Marc


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Checking the instructions given here, do note that all of the buy-it-now
items are art prints!
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 5:22 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert


> If you go to ebay's Collectibles/Vintage Sewing category, without going
> down into Tools, and search on pinking machine as two words (not a
> phrase), searching for those words in the listings as well as the
> titles, there are about ten pinking machines are listed. Which is about
> the usual number for any given day on eBay.  I've thought of getting one
> off and on.
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
> Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
>
> > Hi all, I forget who it was who was interested in a 19th C Pinker.
There is another up on eBay  right now.  You will find it listed under
Sewing tools.  This looks to be pretty much the same as the one I found two
weeks ago.
> >
> > Kathleen
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert
Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 21:48:47 -0500
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What I like about the nifty tool that I  got is that the edging results on
soft cotton is a rather dainty feathered effect,  On stiffer fabric, it
gives the expected sharp zig-zag- pattern.

My present project is mainly h-costume inspiration doll clothing and the
results for ruschings is  simpler but elegant strips that do not require
more ornamentation or time to turn the edges.  I have plans for Ordinary
costume seam finishing to look forward to.

Kathleen


 ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 8:40 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert


> I've been tempted, off and on, to bid on one of those crank models for
> pinking trimmings (I don't generally like to finish seams that way).
> That's why I've been reassured to see there's always a good selection on
> eBay (although I'm sure some of them are rusty and/or dull).
>
> What I really want though, is a choice of shapes beyond the standard
> rather shallow zigzag.  Has anyone found a modern or historic tool that
> really works well for that?
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> http://wwww.lavoltapress.com
>
> Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
>
> > Thanks Fran, I love the one I got and didn't think of some of the other
ways
> > of listing to find  one of the same for other people who might like to
gain
> > one of these.
> > Kathleen
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] period fastenings
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Thanks, Annette, for putting that great link to the art work of Carlo Crivelli in your article on fastenings.   http://www.eleanorlebrun.com/closure.htm
 Not only have they collected really good reproductions of his works from all over the world, they also enable close-ups of all the interesting details.  Three other artists (who seem to be followers of his) are also on the site.  Unfortunately, it's all in Italian, sponsored I think by the region of Italy where he lived and worked, and I can't figure out if there are other artists hiding there.

Janet
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] period fastenings
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At 11:54 AM 2/8/2006, you wrote:
>At Costume College 2003 there was a class on Medieval and Rennisance 
>fastenings, which was fascinating, but there were neither handouts, nor 
>can I find a reference to it on-line, so I can't tell you who the teacher 
>was...Not very helpful, I know!


Hehe... I have a picture of the gentleman who gave that class. It was very 
good and I took many notes.

Peter Worden:
Closure in the European Renaissance
http://www.kimiko1.com/CC2003/pages/instr04_24.htm

Kimiko

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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] RE:Embroidery dating - more info on the banners.
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Katherine,

	Given the dimensions you have cited, these embroideries are
definitely orphry bands, not banners, worn around the neck, and over a cope,
by a priest.

>1. Photos 1 to 8. This has not been bordered by the
velvet. There are TWO layers of fabric embroidered -
the top one has the geometric design and stumpwork, as
well as the couched gold thread.

	This method was often used by professional houses in order to
complete extensive orders quickly, in that the embroidery was broken down
into parts, with embroiderers working on each part simultaneously, and then
the parts assembled. 

>Some thread is
silver? (and has turned black) but there is a lot of
gold.

	Indeed silver thread was used, not often, but it was used. There is
also the possibility some of the silver thread may in fact be inferior
quality gold thread which was applied at a later date, either as a repair,
or as an embellishment.

>The background around the figures is in a
diamond or herringbone textured pattern, while a lot
of the figures has been sewn through the two layers in
the colourful silk which you can see in pictures on
the figures clothing and hair.

	Both of these methods are typical of a great deal of opus anglicanum
done by professional houses.

>Stumpwork forms the
uprights of the architectural columns but I think this
was covered in metal thread - it looks like crazy fine
wire now blackened.

	Again, this is a common practice in a great deal of opus anglicanum.
Sometimes the stumpwork was so raised that wooden supports were underneath.

>The bottom figure which is only
waist length is part of a different piece of fabric -
you can feel the join - and there is no 'temple'
design above it.

	The entire orphry may in fact be made up of salvaged parts of other
pieces of ecclesiastical embroideries. The 'temple' as you describe it, is
common to much of opus anglicanum embroideries, known as arches. Many of the
arches were cinquefoil in design, although certainly trefoils were used to
represent the trinity.

>Also the colour of the thread is
different. The cords down the border edge of this
panel are couched down and you can see bits of gold on
them.  

	Which leads me more and more to suspect the orphry is married pieces
of salvaged embroideries. This was also a common practice, particularly in
the 17th and 18th centuries.

>Between the two layers of this is a crackled paste
which seems to join and stiffen the original fabric -
linen?

	This is fish glue, or sometimes rabbit's foot glue (inferior), used
to secure all the thread ends that would have been left after embroidering,
and to give some stiffness to the embroidery. It also becomes an excellent
food base for insects.

	Do not under any circumstances dampen the embroideries, as you will
dissolve the glue and perhaps completely destroy the embroidery. Only
professional restoration houses can undertake such a delicate operation,
done on special washing tables that support the textile which delicate
washes of de-ionized, de-mineralized water are allowed to flow and drain. It
is to be stressed this method is only used as a last resort, when a textile
is extremely dirty or infested. Otherwise fine gauze is placed over the
textile and a low-pressure vacuum used with the utmost delicacy.

>I'm not aware of
velvet vestments in my own (Orthodox) church but
perhaps other traditions vary?

	The famed and peerless Burgundian Vestments are prepared on a red
silk velvet. These date to the 15th century.

>Here there are also
two layers joined by a (now cracked) paste but I don't
want to open it more than a few stitches which have
already dissolved.

	See above.

	How is that you have come to be commissioned to restore these
pieces?

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org



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Subject: [h-cost] A Good Woman
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Speaking of movies--I went to see "A Good Woman" last night.  For  those not 
familiar with it, it is a re-writing of Oscar Wilde's "Lady  Windemere's Fan" 
set in Italy in the 1930s.  It is visually stunning--great  clothes, and they 
even figure in the plot!  And the screenwriters kept the  great Oscar Wilde 
zingers.  Stephen Hunter, the Washington Post critic,  likened it to moving 
around the furniture--the lines are there, but perhaps in  different places.
 
Ann Wass
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Very OT: Cheat Sheet
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Status: RO

This is very off topic but I thought maybe this could save you some time... so that you could do some sewing, chatting on h-costume, or other important things in life.  

I heard this on the news yesterday.  A website has a cheat sheet on how to get a real live human-being on the phone when dialing a frequently called businesses and govt. offices in the U.S.  This bypasses most prompts and you really get to speak to a person!

Cheat Sheets at Get Human.com : http://www.gethuman.com/us/ 

Please feel free to pass this URL on to your friends.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
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Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2006 10:43:47 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
From: ruthanneb@mindspring.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert
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Fiskar, I believe, makes a variety of pinking/dagging scissors--a variety of designs. I don't have any, and I've seen them advertised only in art-supply catalogs, so maybe their usefulness is limited to paper. I'm always tempted to try a pair, but I can't decide among  wavy-cut, deep pink, deckled-paper-effect, and the more complicated dags...and can't afford to buy them all!
Again: maybe no good for fabric....Has anybody tried them?
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
>From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
>Sent: Feb 8, 2006 8:40 PM
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert
>
>I've been tempted, off and on, to bid on one of those crank models for 
>pinking trimmings (I don't generally like to finish seams that way). 
>That's why I've been reassured to see there's always a good selection on 
>eBay (although I'm sure some of them are rusty and/or dull).
>
>What I really want though, is a choice of shapes beyond the standard 
>rather shallow zigzag.  Has anyone found a modern or historic tool that 
>really works well for that?
>
>Fran
>Lavolta Press
>http://wwww.lavoltapress.com
>
>Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
>
>> Thanks Fran, I love the one I got and didn't think of some of the other ways
>> of listing to find  one of the same for other people who might like to gain
>> one of these.
>> Kathleen
>>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Feb  9 11:03:06 2006
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert
Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2006 11:00:04 -0500
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Ah alas, these are for paper Only. I have a friend that uses a rotary cutter
that comes with a variety of blades for fancy cuts.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 10:43 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert


> Fiskar, I believe, makes a variety of pinking/dagging scissors--a variety
of designs. I don't have any, and I've seen them advertised only in
art-supply catalogs, so maybe their usefulness is limited to paper. I'm
always tempted to try a pair, but I can't decide among  wavy-cut, deep pink,
deckled-paper-effect, and the more complicated dags...and can't afford to
buy them all!
> Again: maybe no good for fabric....Has anybody tried them?
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
> >Sent: Feb 8, 2006 8:40 PM
> >To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> >Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert
> >
> >I've been tempted, off and on, to bid on one of those crank models for
> >pinking trimmings (I don't generally like to finish seams that way).
> >That's why I've been reassured to see there's always a good selection on
> >eBay (although I'm sure some of them are rusty and/or dull).
> >
> >What I really want though, is a choice of shapes beyond the standard
> >rather shallow zigzag.  Has anyone found a modern or historic tool that
> >really works well for that?
> >
> >Fran
> >Lavolta Press
> >http://wwww.lavoltapress.com
> >
> >Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
> >
> >> Thanks Fran, I love the one I got and didn't think of some of the other
ways
> >> of listing to find  one of the same for other people who might like to
gain
> >> one of these.
> >> Kathleen
> >>
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

_______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Burger King costumes
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Maybe I was reading into the lyrics, but it seemed to me that there was 
an "ask the freaky king for a whopper your way" line in there.

liz young

otsisto wrote:
> Of late their commercials are a bit weird IMO. And the King character creeps
> me out.
> De
> Former McDonald's crew.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> Dawn,
> 
> My husband told me there was an interesting commerical from Burger King that
> I would like.
> 
> During the mid-1970s, I worked at Burger King for 2 years of high school and
> one year of Jr. College.  My kids hate it when I special order Whoppers.
> When I worked there "Have it your way!" was our slogan.  And we were not to
> complain.  I guess the advertising world is similar to the Fashion World,
> "What goes around, comes around."  Probably with film-making too... this ad
> looks very Busby Berkley-ish.
> 
> My favorite was the onion costume.
> 
> Penny E. Ladnier
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2006 10:36:14 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> Ah alas, these are for paper Only. I have a friend that uses a rotary
> cutter
> that comes with a variety of blades for fancy cuts.


I bought a wavy rotary cutter to use for 18th c. edging.  I haven't used
it on a whole outfit but the inital testing worked well.

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
--Ghandi

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Subject: [h-cost] re: embroidery dating - more info...
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Status: RO

Dear Lorina

[much snippage!]

Thank you so much for all your help - I have spent a
few hours researching "orphrey" bands and copes and
can see how closely these resemble the 15C museum
pieces on the web. Wow. I knew they were special but I
think, after all, that they are extremely special and
definitely museum quality pieces, whether they've been
faffed about after construction or not.

>Only professional restoration houses can undertake
>such a delicate operation,

I am recommending that I do absolutely nothing to them
(reluctantly) since they are way beyond the original
inquiry, which was just to sew bits of them back up so
they could be hung on the wall again... !! I've put my
client in touch with professional conservators who are
qualified to deal with such amazing pieces and a
framer who can put it into a suitable acid-neutral
environment behind UV-proof glass. (unless, of course,
he decides to donate them to a museum. Since the V&A
haven't even acknowledged the last thing he sent I
have my doubts).


>How is that you have come to be commissioned to
>restore these pieces?

Ah - the customer also collects antique books and
these were part of a collection owned by a late friend
of his. His bookbinder (an amazing craftsman) is a
friend of mine and when he asked if said bookbinder
knew anyone who could carefully sew things together...
  I've previously done repairs to vestments in church,
matching brocade motifs invisibly etc., since charcoal
sparks have a fatal attraction for the front of the
priest's phelonion (or cape)!

Since I'm even worrying about the small repairs to an
1870s bustle outfit I have just bought, there's no way
I'd touch these. I'm going to try and sketch them and
take more notes though, since they are truly
droolsome. When I've done that, I'll be sure to let
you all know so you can 'visit' again.

Cheers, I'm truly grateful,
Katherine

"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright


	
	
		
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Date: Thu, 09 Feb 2006 20:20:21 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: embroidery dating - more info...
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Status: RO

At 20:00 09/02/2006, you wrote:
>Dear Lorina
>
>[much snippage!]
>
>Thank you so much for all your help - I have spent a
>few hours researching "orphrey" bands and copes and
>can see how closely these resemble the 15C museum
>pieces on the web. Wow. I knew they were special but I
>think, after all, that they are extremely special and
>definitely museum quality pieces, whether they've been
>faffed about after construction or not.
>
> >Only professional restoration houses can undertake
> >such a delicate operation,
>
>I am recommending that I do absolutely nothing to them
>(reluctantly) since they are way beyond the original
>inquiry, which was just to sew bits of them back up so
>they could be hung on the wall again... !! I've put my
>client in touch with professional conservators who are
>qualified to deal with such amazing pieces and a
>framer who can put it into a suitable acid-neutral
>environment behind UV-proof glass. (unless, of course,
>he decides to donate them to a museum. Since the V&A
>haven't even acknowledged the last thing he sent I
>have my doubts).
>
>
> >How is that you have come to be commissioned to
> >restore these pieces?
>
>Ah - the customer also collects antique books and
>these were part of a collection owned by a late friend
>of his. His bookbinder (an amazing craftsman) is a
>friend of mine and when he asked if said bookbinder
>knew anyone who could carefully sew things together...
>   I've previously done repairs to vestments in church,
>matching brocade motifs invisibly etc., since charcoal
>sparks have a fatal attraction for the front of the
>priest's phelonion (or cape)!
>
>Since I'm even worrying about the small repairs to an
>1870s bustle outfit I have just bought, there's no way
>I'd touch these. I'm going to try and sketch them and
>take more notes though, since they are truly
>droolsome. When I've done that, I'll be sure to let
>you all know so you can 'visit' again.


Katherine

Any chance of taking a pattern off that waistcoat while you have 
access to it. Even the front would be good.

'Scuse my cheek!

Suzi


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(What I really want though, is a choice of shapes beyond the standard
rather shallow zigzag.  Has anyone found a modern or historic tool that
really works well for that?  Fran)

I recently bought a lovely reproduction 18th century pinking tool from Dan
Brown of Green Man Forge. It was $40.  He will resharpen for $10.  He can
make any shape pinker you want. Here's his web site:
http://www.greenmanforge.com/.  I wanted to use some pinked edges on my new
18th century patterns for Simplicity. Unfortunately, I couldn't find a cheap
alternative that would be readily available.   Can't you just imagine people
looking at the back of the pattern envelope and seeing that a special-order
$40 tool was required!

As to the old table-mounted rotary pinking machines, does anybody have one
that actually works?  Many years ago I was at a huge costume company (now
defunct) called Brooks Van Horne.  They had several pinking machines and
they were a PAIN.  They were always dull and full of lint and chewed your
seam allowances to heck.  Maybe that's because everybody used them and
nobody cleaned or sharpened them?

Martha


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: pinking shears
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In a message dated 2/9/06 7:04:48 PM GMT Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> And 
> how would you sharpen something like that anyway?

When I got my first pair of pinking shears (just normal zig-zaggy ones) I was 
told they can be professionally sharpened once, and that's it - any more and 
they can't guaratee that the teeth will still meet
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] pinker alert
Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2006 17:54:27 -0600
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I have found that the scalloped worked okay on broadcloth and lightweight.
It was used for the decorative parts of a costume. It may have been that
they became dull with their first use because there were times the edge was
fray checked before the cut and so, they did not cut heavy material, kind of
gnawed the edge.
De

-----Original Message-----
Fiskar, I believe, makes a variety of pinking/dagging scissors--a variety of
designs. I don't have any, and I've seen them advertised only in art-supply
catalogs, so maybe their usefulness is limited to paper. I'm always tempted
to try a pair, but I can't decide among  wavy-cut, deep pink,
deckled-paper-effect, and the more complicated dags...and can't afford to
buy them all!
Again: maybe no good for fabric....Has anybody tried them?
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer


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From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] pinker alert- fancy sissors
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I used the really fancy edged ones on fabric which had
been applied to lightweight fusible glue.  It made a
nice edge and the fusible didn't seem to gum up the
blades at all.

--- otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:

> I have found that the scalloped worked okay on
> broadcloth and lightweight.
> It was used for the decorative parts of a costume.
> It may have been that
> they became dull with their first use because there
> were times the edge was
> fray checked before the cut and so, they did not cut
> heavy material, kind of
> gnawed the edge.
> De
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> Fiskar, I believe, makes a variety of
> pinking/dagging scissors--a variety of
> designs. I don't have any, and I've seen them
> advertised only in art-supply
> catalogs, so maybe their usefulness is limited to
> paper. I'm always tempted
> to try a pair, but I can't decide among  wavy-cut,
> deep pink,
> deckled-paper-effect, and the more complicated
> dags...and can't afford to
> buy them all!
> Again: maybe no good for fabric....Has anybody tried
> them?
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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From: "Carolann Schmitt" <cschmitt@genteelarts.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Pink, pinkers, pinking
Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2006 19:26:21 -0500
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<<As to the old table-mounted rotary pinking machines, does anybody have one
that actually works?>>  

I do. Works like a charm, but apparently mine was maintained properly.

Carolann Schmitt
cschmitt@genteelarts.com
www.genteelarts.com
Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 2-5, 2006


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Italian Linen
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I believe I actually ordered a swatch of this.  It was not very fine, 
but rather more like the Russian medium weight linen you get at 
http://www.fabrics-store.com/
But this is not to say all Italian Linen is like this. The swatch 
service is fast and cheap and totally worth the money....

Sg
McClure, Kate wrote:

>Hello!
>
>De-lurking for a moment . . .
>
>While perusing the web, I stumbled onto something called Italian linen,
>which can be found here:
>
>http://tinyurl.com/a826d
>Does anyone know how this would compare to Irish linen? Or is it just a
>different name for the same thing? 
>
>Kate McClure
>Grand Pooh-Bah
>Beyond Reality Costumers Guild
>www.brcg.org
>
>_______________________________________________
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>
>  
>

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From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wife of Bath's headcovering
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I asked my son, who is studing midieval lit, if he had
any ideas. He wants to know the line reference for
this passage so he can read it in context.

--- Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote:

> I'm wondering about the Wife of Bath and what she's
> got on her head in 
> the Canterbury Tales:
> 
> "Hir coverchiefs ful fyne weren of ground,
> I dorste swere they weyeden ten pound
> That on a Sonday weren upon hir heed."
> 
> Mainly I'm wondering about the use of the word
> "ground" in the first 
> line.  I've seen a suggestion that this could
> translate to mean 
> "texture", as in "her coverchiefs were of a very
> fine texture".
> 
> The OED doesn't seem to offer any goodies, but
> perhaps I missed 
> something--the entries for "ground" are quite long! 
> Does anyone have 
> other information about this?
> 
> Thanks,
> Melanie Schuessler
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wife of Bath's headcovering
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> --- Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote:
> 
> > I'm wondering about the Wife of Bath and what she's
> > got on her head ...

Just occurred to me, Laura Hodges would certainly have addressed this in
her book on "Chaucer and Costume," which has chapters on most or all of
the secular pilgrims. (The religious and academic pilgrims are addressed
in the sequel, "Chaucer and Clothing.")

(Melanie, you may have already met Laura at K'zoo, and she'll be there
this year too.)

--Robin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pink, pinkers, pinking
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and my 'new' one sure works like new.  I was surprised how sharp the cut
was..
kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Carolann Schmitt" <cschmitt@genteelarts.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 7:26 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Pink, pinkers, pinking


> <<As to the old table-mounted rotary pinking machines, does anybody have
one
> that actually works?>>
>
> I do. Works like a charm, but apparently mine was maintained properly.
>
> Carolann Schmitt
> cschmitt@genteelarts.com
> www.genteelarts.com
> Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 2-5, 2006
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pink, pinkers, pinking
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Well, have any of you had a problem using someone else's scissors?  It is
kid of like a lefty using mine, or me using theirs.  Some how, using a
person's cutting tool  is never quite like using one's own.

kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@nyc.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 6:02 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Pink, pinkers, pinking


>
>
> (What I really want though, is a choice of shapes beyond the standard
> rather shallow zigzag.  Has anyone found a modern or historic tool that
> really works well for that?  Fran)
>
> I recently bought a lovely reproduction 18th century pinking tool from Dan
> Brown of Green Man Forge. It was $40.  He will resharpen for $10.  He can
> make any shape pinker you want. Here's his web site:
> http://www.greenmanforge.com/.  I wanted to use some pinked edges on my
new
> 18th century patterns for Simplicity. Unfortunately, I couldn't find a
cheap
> alternative that would be readily available.   Can't you just imagine
people
> looking at the back of the pattern envelope and seeing that a
special-order
> $40 tool was required!
>
> As to the old table-mounted rotary pinking machines, does anybody have one
> that actually works?  Many years ago I was at a huge costume company (now
> defunct) called Brooks Van Horne.  They had several pinking machines and
> they were a PAIN.  They were always dull and full of lint and chewed your
> seam allowances to heck.  Maybe that's because everybody used them and
> nobody cleaned or sharpened them?
>
> Martha
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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I am hoping to be in Washington DC in June, and wondered if anyone 
knew of a not-too-expensive hotel within walking distance of the 
Smithsonian. I hope to get an introduction there from a curator 
friend, and see what I can see.

Now I have to decide what I'd like to see!! (Whee!) And of course 
find out what I'll be allowed to see!!

A very excited Suzi


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] O.T. re Washington DC 
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Sorry, got distracted booking the flights, and forgot to put a header.


>I am hoping to be in Washington DC in June, and wondered if anyone 
>knew of a not-too-expensive hotel within walking distance of the 
>Smithsonian. I hope to get an introduction there from a curator 
>friend, and see what I can see.
>
>Now I have to decide what I'd like to see!! (Whee!) And of course 
>find out what I'll be allowed to see!!
>
>A very excited Suzi
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] O.T. re Washington DC 
To: h-costume@indra.com
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What period are you interested in?  I can make some suggestions.  
 
I don't think there are any reasonably priced hotels within walking  
distance, but you can look for an outlying hotel that is either near a Metro  stop or 
has shuttle service to a Metro stop.  There is also a hostel  somewhere in 
downtown DC--I'm sure you can find that through a web search.
 
If you are interested in early 19th century, please come see us at  
Riversdale--we are a historic house museum that interprets primarily  1801-1821.  Alas, 
we have no costume collection.  We are on a bus line  that comes from a Metro 
stop.
 
Ann Wass
Riversdale House Museum
4811 Riverdale Rd.
Riverdale Park MD 20737
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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On Fri, 10 Feb 2006, Suzi Clarke wrote:

> I am hoping to be in Washington DC in June, and wondered if anyone
> knew of a not-too-expensive hotel within walking distance of the
> Smithsonian. I hope to get an introduction there from a curator
> friend, and see what I can see.

If I still lived there, I'd offer to have you stay with me! But I moved
six years ago, sorry.

I don't think there's such a thing as a not-too-expensive hotel within
walking distance of the Smithsonian! It is located in the middle of all
the federal buildings, and the hotels I can think of near there are
extraordinarily ritzy.

Fortunately the public transit in Washington is quite civilized, and the
bulk of the Smithsonian museums (located on the Mall) are served by three
stops: the Smithsonian stop at the west, the Archives at the Northeast,
and L'Enfant Plaza at the south.  The Portrait Museum and the American Art
museum are a bit further north from the Mall, and served by the Gallery
Place stop.

So whatever line you come in on, you are not too far.  Just make sure you
stay at a hotel that is walking distance from a Metro stop! You can find
some quite reasonable in Arlington (on the Virginia side) and Rockville
(on the Maryland side); anything in Virginia on a Metro line will be
rather closer to the Smithsonian and have a shorter ride.

> Now I have to decide what I'd like to see!! (Whee!) And of course 
> find out what I'll be allowed to see!!

Don't forget the National Gallery, which is operated separately from the
Smithsonian (and of much more interest to me from a costume standpoint);
it is also located on the Mall, at the Archives end. There are also a
number of private collections of art and artifacts, including the Textile
Museum, scattered around town, some harder to reach than others.

Your focus will depend on your period of interest. For instance, for
people interested in medieval Europe, I usually recommend the National
Gallery, the Library of Congress, the Folger Shakespeare Library (for
Elizabethan), Dumbarton Oaks (for Byzantine in particular), the National
Cathedral (for its bookstore), and the Walters Art Gallery in Baltimore --
in other words, not the Smithsonian at all.

--Robin


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At 13:54 10/02/2006, you wrote:
>What period are you interested in?  I can make some suggestions.
>
>I don't think there are any reasonably priced hotels within walking
>distance, but you can look for an outlying hotel that is either near 
>a Metro  stop or
>has shuttle service to a Metro stop.  There is also a hostel  somewhere in
>downtown DC--I'm sure you can find that through a web search.
>
>If you are interested in early 19th century, please come see us at
>Riversdale--we are a historic house museum that interprets 
>primarily  1801-1821.  Alas,
>we have no costume collection.  We are on a bus line  that comes from a Metro
>stop.
>
>Ann Wass
>Riversdale House Museum
>4811 Riverdale Rd.
>Riverdale Park MD 20737


Ann

That's a lovely invitation - thank you.

I'm interested in most periods, as I make everything except 20th 
century and modern. It will rather depend on how long we are in 
Washington - yet to be decided in consultation with our hostess.

Suzi


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I made a whole slew of those fringed fleece boas that were popular a 
couple years ago, with the intention of selling them all.  I did sell a 
few on ebay but am stuck now with about 25-30 of them and no one wants 
them anymore.  Does anyone have any ideas about an organization I might 
donate them to?  They're really warm but unfortunately, went out of 
style really fast.

Sylrog

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In a message dated 2/10/2006 9:10:28 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
robin@shell.nightowl.net writes:

> Don't forget the National Gallery,

A truly great art museum....with a room full of el Grecos, 4 Vermeers, a 
portrait by Leonardo and one by Holbein [you see those all the time, right? :-P] 
my fave Gainsborough [Mrs. Sheridan] and Whistler's "Symphony in White". And 
the East Wing has a room of Calder sculptures and lots of Rothkos, which I love. 
I think around the time you're there a big Rousseau exhibit will be there 
too. 

None of that had to do with costume and clothes but this does....

You MUST see the Museum of the American Indian!!! It is amazing! And full of 
amazing garments. It's so beautiful, even before you walk in. It's right next 
to the smooth, shiny, sleek, rectangular, right-angled, polished stone Air and 
Space museum. But it is earthy yellow, rough hewn, curving, with zero right 
angles. There is flowing and cascading water all around and it was landscaped 
with maize and tobacco. Inside, everything is designed. The exhibits are 
unusual and beautiful.
There isn't one for clothes but garments are everywhere...mainly in the 
tribal religion exhibits on the 4th floor.

 My fave garment is from a Northern Canadian tribe: a parka made of seal 
intestine. It looks just like a regular parka: y'know mid thigh length and a hood 
and all. But it's composed of horizontal strips a few inches wide that are 
translucent, like wax paper. I'll bet it's water proof.  And a South American 
tribe weaves these cotton poncho-like shirts with intricate 3-D geometrics in 
white on white woven into the fabric. So beautiful! I want one.

The cafeteria and gift shop have unusual and wonderful stuff [but of course 
expensive...but, what the hell, you only live once]. A friend of mine had just 
had a baby; I almost got her a cradle board for her papoose. [I should have]

Anyway..have fun!
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What a shame!  All that work and investment just sitting around without 
a home.

If you don't find a "human" home for them, maybe you can donate them to 
the local humane society, they can probably use them as "snuggle toys" 
for the caged critters.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Feb 10, 2006, at 11:04 AM, Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

> I made a whole slew of those fringed fleece boas that were popular a 
> couple years ago, with the intention of selling them all.  I did sell 
> a few on ebay but am stuck now with about 25-30 of them and no one 
> wants them anymore.  Does anyone have any ideas about an organization 
> I might donate them to?  They're really warm but unfortunately, went 
> out of style really fast.
>
> Sylrog
>
> _______________________________________________
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My family relies on Hotel Harrington.  It's basically 2 blocks from everything.  
1 blocks to the Old Post office for good cheap food. 
2 blocks from Fords Theater and Hard Rock CafĂ©
1.5 blocks to the nearest metro station
2 blocks from Museum of Natural History and the rest of the Smithsonian.
http://www.hotel-harrington.com/mapdrivingdirections.htm

The rates are of course a little more expensive then a Motel 6 in the middle of nowhere but we haven't yet found anything cheaper and more conveniently located.  If you've got a group going you can't beat some of their larger room prices.  I always recommend this to friends and family.  We've never had any problems walking around at night and since it's so close to everything we save quite a bit on transportation.

Small note.  The parking garage is a few blocks away.  We unload at the hotel and then send someone to go park the car while the others check in.  Once you park just leave the car until your stay is over.  There's no reason to try driving around DC if you don't have to.

BjÇ«rn Arnaldsson 
 
Lord Bjorn Arnaldsson
Barony of Black Diamond 
 



>Message: 5
>Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 13:09:41 +0000
>From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
>Subject: [h-cost] O.T.
>To: h-costume@indra.com
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>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
>
>
>I am hoping to be in Washington DC in June, and wondered if anyone 
>knew of a not-too-expensive hotel within walking distance of the 
>Smithsonian. I hope to get an introduction there from a curator 
>friend, and see what I can see.
>
>Now I have to decide what I'd like to see!! (Whee!) And of course 
>find out what I'll be allowed to see!!
>
>A very excited Suzi

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From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT-donating to charity
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Could you possibly transform them into something else?
What if you sewed them in rows onto a base and made a
fluffy throw? Or a floor pillow?  Cut them up the
middle and you have fringe you could apply to another
block of fleece and make a poncho.  

--- Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> wrote:

> I made a whole slew of those fringed fleece boas
> that were popular a 
> couple years ago, with the intention of selling them
> all.  I did sell a 
> few on ebay but am stuck now with about 25-30 of
> them and no one wants 
> them anymore.  Does anyone have any ideas about an
> organization I might 
> donate them to?  They're really warm but
> unfortunately, went out of 
> style really fast.
> 
> Sylrog
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

> I made a whole slew of those fringed fleece boas that were popular a 
> couple years ago, with the intention of selling them all.  I did sell a 
> few on ebay but am stuck now with about 25-30 of them and no one wants 
> them anymore.  Does anyone have any ideas about an organization I might 
> donate them to?  They're really warm but unfortunately, went out of 
> style really fast.

My suggestion would be a senior center or shelter that hands out coats 
in the winter. Scarves would probably be welcome there, too. Sometimes 
radio stations do coat drives, if you called around you might get 
contact info. You can also look for the Freecycle group in your area 
(freecycle.org) and ask on the message board. I see folks from smaller 
charities on our group all the time.


Dawn


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To: h-costume@indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wife of Bath's headcovering
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Could 'ground' refer to a ground fabric in the embroidery sense of the
word? In this period, likely being linen?

Arlys, who hasn't a clue

On Wed, 08 Feb 2006 16:34:19 -0600 Melanie Schuessler
<melanie@faucet.net> writes:
> I'm wondering about the Wife of Bath and what she's got on her head 
> in 
> the Canterbury Tales:
> 
> "Hir coverchiefs ful fyne weren of ground,
> I dorste swere they weyeden ten pound
> That on a Sonday weren upon hir heed."
> 
> Mainly I'm wondering about the use of the word "ground" in the first 
> 
> line.  I've seen a suggestion that this could translate to mean 
> "texture", as in "her coverchiefs were of a very fine texture".
> 
> The OED doesn't seem to offer any goodies, but perhaps I missed 
> something--the entries for "ground" are quite long!  Does anyone 
> have 
> other information about this?
> 
> Thanks,
> Melanie Schuessler
> 
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ruthanneb@mindspring.com wrote:

> Fiskar, I believe, makes a variety of pinking/dagging scissors--a variety of designs. I don't have any, and I've seen them advertised only in art-supply catalogs, so maybe their usefulness is limited to paper. I'm always tempted to try a pair, but I can't decide among  wavy-cut, deep pink, deckled-paper-effect, and the more complicated dags...and can't afford to buy them all!
> Again: maybe no good for fabric....Has anybody tried them?
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner

I have a pair I bought when I made my wedding invitations, and I didn't 
think they were all that good on paper. The handles were small and hurt 
my hands -- though they cut ok -- I found them unpleasant to use. They 
probably would have worked on fabric when new, but they won't now. And 
how would you sharpen something like that anyway?



Dawn



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Status: RO

I heard that too, and thought like you that maybe I was reading that into
the lyrics.  I feel he is creepy too.

Steph

Maybe I was reading into the lyrics, but it seemed to me that there was
> an "ask the freaky king for a whopper your way" line in there.
>
> liz young
>
> otsisto wrote:
>> Of late their commercials are a bit weird IMO. And the King character
>> creeps
>> me out.
>> De
>> Former McDonald's crew.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> Dawn,
>>
>> My husband told me there was an interesting commerical from Burger King
>> that
>> I would like.
>>
>> During the mid-1970s, I worked at Burger King for 2 years of high school
>> and
>> one year of Jr. College.  My kids hate it when I special order Whoppers.
>> When I worked there "Have it your way!" was our slogan.  And we were not
>> to
>> complain.  I guess the advertising world is similar to the Fashion
>> World,
>> "What goes around, comes around."  Probably with film-making too... this
>> ad
>> looks very Busby Berkley-ish.
>>
>> My favorite was the onion costume.
>>
>> Penny E. Ladnier
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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>


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Date: Thu, 09 Feb 2006 12:41:31 -0500
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From: Dawn Luckham <dluckham@sympatico.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] Help Identify 19th Century Painting
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Hello,

I'm trying very hard to identify the artist in this painting. The only
information that I have is " the artist and his brother 1839". Does anyone
recognize this? I've broken the address up so it will process through the 
list.  Is there a better way to do this?  Suzi has already been so kind  to 
suggest Pre-Raphaelite painters.  I also have a vague thought of the German 
(or Austrian?) schools but extensive searching has still not helped.

http:/

/photobucket.

com/albums/v320/DLuckham/Drawn%20Bonnet/?action=view&current=artistandbrother1839.jpg

Thanks so much for any help you can give,
Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] O.T.
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At 14:36 10/02/2006, you wrote:

>On Fri, 10 Feb 2006, Suzi Clarke wrote:
>
> > I am hoping to be in Washington DC in June, and wondered if anyone
> > knew of a not-too-expensive hotel within walking distance of the
> > Smithsonian. I hope to get an introduction there from a curator
> > friend, and see what I can see.
>
>If I still lived there, I'd offer to have you stay with me! But I moved
>six years ago, sorry.
>
>I don't think there's such a thing as a not-too-expensive hotel within
>walking distance of the Smithsonian! It is located in the middle of all
>the federal buildings, and the hotels I can think of near there are
>extraordinarily ritzy.
>
>Fortunately the public transit in Washington is quite civilized, and the
>bulk of the Smithsonian museums (located on the Mall) are served by three
>stops: the Smithsonian stop at the west, the Archives at the Northeast,
>and L'Enfant Plaza at the south.  The Portrait Museum and the American Art
>museum are a bit further north from the Mall, and served by the Gallery
>Place stop.
>
>So whatever line you come in on, you are not too far.  Just make sure you
>stay at a hotel that is walking distance from a Metro stop! You can find
>some quite reasonable in Arlington (on the Virginia side) and Rockville
>(on the Maryland side); anything in Virginia on a Metro line will be
>rather closer to the Smithsonian and have a shorter ride.
>
> > Now I have to decide what I'd like to see!! (Whee!) And of course
> > find out what I'll be allowed to see!!
>
>Don't forget the National Gallery, which is operated separately from the
>Smithsonian (and of much more interest to me from a costume standpoint);
>it is also located on the Mall, at the Archives end. There are also a
>number of private collections of art and artifacts, including the Textile
>Museum, scattered around town, some harder to reach than others.
>
>Your focus will depend on your period of interest. For instance, for
>people interested in medieval Europe, I usually recommend the National
>Gallery, the Library of Congress, the Folger Shakespeare Library (for
>Elizabethan), Dumbarton Oaks (for Byzantine in particular), the National
>Cathedral (for its bookstore), and the Walters Art Gallery in Baltimore --
>in other words, not the Smithsonian at all.


Thanks so much for the advice. I don't have any particular period of 
interest - as a professional costumer I simply make what I am paid 
for! So as I am so short of time (hopefully there will be more time 
another trip) I just want to catch what I can!

As I live in London, and manage to get to Europe a lot (the Louvre, 
the Prado etc) I don't really need to see European stuff. (Or 
Tudor/Shakespeare for that matter - born and bred in Warwickshire!). 
I suppose I mostly make Georgian costume, in all its years, including 
Regency of course.

I think I like making corsets most, so maybe that should be my focus 
- I don't know - I know there is so much out there just waiting to be 
seen - decisions, decisions.)

Suzi


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Date: Thu, 09 Feb 2006 12:40:15 -0800
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dune
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At 02:40 PM 2/8/2006, you wrote:
>I got the newly issued DVD of "Dune"....another film much hated but I love
>because I don't find it confusing [and I've never read the books]


While I really enjoyed both sets of movies (SciFi version, and the original 
movie with extended info), the books are so much better imho. If you 
haven't read them, do, at least the first three books. I've read most of 
that series, and the first three are much better, with the story going 
whacky imho after that.

But I will also admit to enjoying the SciFi movie costumes very much, even 
if the storylines are a bit changed. It's been a long while since I saw the 
original movie (when it came out in the theatre, and again when the 
extended aired on tv although I vaguely watched it because I was working), 
so I won't comment there.

Kimiko


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Hi, 
Can anyone point me to a reference for how to dress Roman ladies' hair? I've found a some simple styles, but wasn't there a period when they wore really tall, complicated hairstyles? 
 
Oh, and has anyone seen this book: Daring Do's: History of hairstyles by Trasko? Is it any good?
 
Thanks!
Tea Rose
 
 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wife of Bath's headcovering
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Rebecca wrote:
>I asked my son, who is studing midieval lit, if he had
> any ideas. He wants to know the line reference for
> this passage so he can read it in context.

The lines are #453-455 in the General Prologue.  The wife's description is 
between that of the physician and the parson.
             -Helen/Aidan 

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REBECCA BURCH wrote:
> I asked my son, who is studing midieval lit, if he had
> any ideas. He wants to know the line reference for
> this passage so he can read it in context.

In the copy I have it's line 453 and following.

Thanks,
Melanie

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In a message dated 2/10/2006 11:18:32 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

And full  of 
amazing garments.


They have just opened an exhibit that focuses on the Northwest Coast  tribes, 
so there are wonderful hats and button blankets, among other  things.  I 
haven't been to the museum yet, but will definitely go to see  this exhibit.
 
Ann Wass
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 12:00:21 -0700
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I don't know how extensive this article is but I just found it last
night looking for something else. 

http://www.housebarra.com/EP/ep04/08romanhair.html

Hope it's at least a starting point. 

Keri-Anne
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of tearoses@aol.com
Sent: February 9, 2006 2:16 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles


Hi, 
Can anyone point me to a reference for how to dress Roman ladies' hair?
I've found a some simple styles, but wasn't there a period when they
wore really tall, complicated hairstyles? 
 
Oh, and has anyone seen this book: Daring Do's: History of hairstyles by
Trasko? Is it any good?
 
Thanks!
Tea Rose
 
 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wife of Bath's headcovering
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Robin Netherton wrote:

> Just occurred to me, Laura Hodges would certainly have addressed this in
> her book on "Chaucer and Costume," which has chapters on most or all of
> the secular pilgrims. (The religious and academic pilgrims are addressed
> in the sequel, "Chaucer and Clothing.")
> 
> (Melanie, you may have already met Laura at K'zoo, and she'll be there
> this year too.)

:)  Yes, I thought of that book, and how I don't have it.

Thanks,
Melanie

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Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 17:01:17 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Washington DC
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At 16:36 10/02/2006, you wrote:
>My family relies on Hotel Harrington.  It's 
>basically 2 blocks from everything.
>1 blocks to the Old Post office for good cheap food.
>2 blocks from Fords Theater and Hard Rock CafĂ©
>1.5 blocks to the nearest metro station
>2 blocks from Museum of Natural History and the rest of the Smithsonian.
>http://www.hotel-harrington.com/mapdrivingdirections.htm
>
>The rates are of course a little more expensive 
>then a Motel 6 in the middle of nowhere but we 
>haven't yet found anything cheaper and more 
>conveniently located.  If you've got a group 
>going you can't beat some of their larger room 
>prices.  I always recommend this to friends and 
>family.  We've never had any problems walking 
>around at night and since it's so close to 
>everything we save quite a bit on transportation.
>
>Small note.  The parking garage is a few blocks 
>away.  We unload at the hotel and then send 
>someone to go park the car while the others 
>check in.  Once you park just leave the car 
>until your stay is over.  There's no reason to 
>try driving around DC if you don't have to.

Thank you - that's very helpful. Parking won't be 
a problem - we fly in from London, spend a couple 
of days in Washington, and then go to stay with our friend.

Suzi 



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] O.T.
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 10:57:51 -0500
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We are contemplating on a trip there at about the same time.  My husband has
been cruising the B&B sites and has actually found one or two slightly under
$100, with easy access to PT. Perhaps another resource.

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 9:36 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] O.T.


>
> On Fri, 10 Feb 2006, Suzi Clarke wrote:
>
> > I am hoping to be in Washington DC in June, and wondered if anyone
> > knew of a not-too-expensive hotel within walking distance of the
> > Smithsonian. I hope to get an introduction there from a curator
> > friend, and see what I can see.
>
> If I still lived there, I'd offer to have you stay with me! But I moved
> six years ago, sorry.
>
> I don't think there's such a thing as a not-too-expensive hotel within
> walking distance of the Smithsonian! It is located in the middle of all
> the federal buildings, and the hotels I can think of near there are
> extraordinarily ritzy.
>
> Fortunately the public transit in Washington is quite civilized, and the
> bulk of the Smithsonian museums (located on the Mall) are served by three
> stops: the Smithsonian stop at the west, the Archives at the Northeast,
> and L'Enfant Plaza at the south.  The Portrait Museum and the American Art
> museum are a bit further north from the Mall, and served by the Gallery
> Place stop.
>
> So whatever line you come in on, you are not too far.  Just make sure you
> stay at a hotel that is walking distance from a Metro stop! You can find
> some quite reasonable in Arlington (on the Virginia side) and Rockville
> (on the Maryland side); anything in Virginia on a Metro line will be
> rather closer to the Smithsonian and have a shorter ride.
>
> > Now I have to decide what I'd like to see!! (Whee!) And of course
> > find out what I'll be allowed to see!!
>
> Don't forget the National Gallery, which is operated separately from the
> Smithsonian (and of much more interest to me from a costume standpoint);
> it is also located on the Mall, at the Archives end. There are also a
> number of private collections of art and artifacts, including the Textile
> Museum, scattered around town, some harder to reach than others.
>
> Your focus will depend on your period of interest. For instance, for
> people interested in medieval Europe, I usually recommend the National
> Gallery, the Library of Congress, the Folger Shakespeare Library (for
> Elizabethan), Dumbarton Oaks (for Byzantine in particular), the National
> Cathedral (for its bookstore), and the Walters Art Gallery in Baltimore --
> in other words, not the Smithsonian at all.
>
> --Robin
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles
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Here are a bunch of Roman images.
 
Some women's busts ['Carry my bust with pride!"] show a variety of  
hairstyles.
 
 
_Roman  Clothing II Images_ 
(http://www.vroma.org/~bmcmanus/clothing_images.html)  
 
 
_http://www.vroma.org/~bmcmanus/clothing_images.html_ 
(http://www.vroma.org/~bmcmanus/clothing_images.html) 
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Date: Thu, 09 Feb 2006 23:27:08 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pink, pinkers, pinking
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At 23:02 09/02/2006, you wrote:


>(What I really want though, is a choice of shapes beyond the standard
>rather shallow zigzag.  Has anyone found a modern or historic tool that
>really works well for that?  Fran)


I have pinking tools that are about the size of the top of my thumb, 
one with zigzags, and one with tiny curves, which is lovely. I also 
have a couple of others - all antiques. Someone made one for me, but 
it is heavy and not really quite as easy to use as the "real" ones. 
Unfortunately they all could do with a bit of sharpening, and I 
really don't want to send them to the U.S  just for that - I will 
have to try and find someone in England who can do it  properly.

Suzi


>I recently bought a lovely reproduction 18th century pinking tool from Dan
>Brown of Green Man Forge. It was $40.  He will resharpen for $10.  He can
>make any shape pinker you want. Here's his web site:
>http://www.greenmanforge.com/.  I wanted to use some pinked edges on my new
>18th century patterns for Simplicity. Unfortunately, I couldn't find a cheap
>alternative that would be readily available.   Can't you just imagine people
>looking at the back of the pattern envelope and seeing that a special-order
>$40 tool was required!
>
>As to the old table-mounted rotary pinking machines, does anybody have one
>that actually works?  Many years ago I was at a huge costume company (now
>defunct) called Brooks Van Horne.  They had several pinking machines and
>they were a PAIN.  They were always dull and full of lint and chewed your
>seam allowances to heck.  Maybe that's because everybody used them and
>nobody cleaned or sharpened them?
>
>Martha


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 14:43:14 -0500
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Try watching the latest series on HBO or Cimemax, Called Ceasar. It's great. 
It portrays all the nasty things people think but pretend don't happen in 
society. Just proves that nothing is new, even sexual orientation, 
seduction, powergrabs and political arrangements through sex. The costumes 
are very period. It has regional sources and difference of class as well. I 
love it.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <tearoses@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 4:16 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles


> Hi,
> Can anyone point me to a reference for how to dress Roman ladies' hair? 
> I've found a some simple styles, but wasn't there a period when they wore 
> really tall, complicated hairstyles?
>
> Oh, and has anyone seen this book: Daring Do's: History of hairstyles by 
> Trasko? Is it any good?
>
> Thanks!
> Tea Rose
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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In a message dated 2/10/2006 2:47:03 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
zeartiste@hotmail.com writes:

Try  watching the latest series on HBO or Cimemax, Called Ceasar. 


But if you want hairstyles on film.....you cannot beat Fellini's  "Satyricon".
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: [h-cost] 16th Century Effigies - loops!
References: <011801c62899$9d3bb100$6400a8c0@Penny>
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To America and back....  I passed this on to my sister, who works for 
Hampshire Council's library service.  Their local studies department 
hadn't heard of the project and send their thanks back round the loop 
for the information!

Jean


Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote
>Passing this alone from another list...
>
>Good news! A brand new research resource for c16th dress arrives on line - a
>pilot database of images is available at:
>
>http://www.jmdsrv1.dyndns.org/tudoreffigies
>
>This is the first stage of a project to photograph and make available
>photographs of Tudor effigies in UK churches. The pilot database contains 44
>effigies with photographs of items and features of dress. This represents
>about two per cent of the material that could be compiled from similar
>sources.
>
>Eventually, each effigy and its details will have a description with
>appropriate c16th terms and an explanation of how they were worn.
>
>The database has been compiled by Dr Jane Malcolm-Davies at Winchester
>School of Art. Feedback on the usefulness of the images and suggestions for
>improvement will help with an application for continued funding for the
>project.
>
>Penny E. Ladnier
>Owner,
>The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
>Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
>Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wife of Bath's headcovering
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Somehow, I don't think that a linen veil would be so heavy as to weight ten pounds on her head.  Could she have had on some kind of really elaborate hat or headgear? 

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender 

On Wed, 08 Feb 2006 16:34:19 -0600 Melanie Schuessler
<melanie@faucet.net> writes:
> I'm wondering about the Wife of Bath and what she's got on her head 
> in 
> the Canterbury Tales:
> 
> "Hir coverchiefs ful fyne weren of ground,
> I dorste swere they weyeden ten pound
> That on a Sonday weren upon hir heed."
> 
> Mainly I'm wondering about the use of the word "ground" in the first 
> 
> line. I've seen a suggestion that this could translate to mean 
> "texture", as in "her coverchiefs were of a very fine texture".
> 
> The OED doesn't seem to offer any goodies, but perhaps I missed 
> something--the entries for "ground" are quite long! Does anyone 
> have 
> other information about this?
> 
> Thanks,
> Melanie Schuessler
> 
> 

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Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 12:41:20 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wife of Bath's headcovering
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It sounds to me like a sartirical comment that her headdress was 
really overdone.  I think his reference to "ten pound" is hyperbole, 
as when we may say that something "weighs a ton" when all we mean is 
that it is "very heavy".

Joan

At 12:11 PM 2/10/2006, you wrote:
>Somehow, I don't think that a linen veil would be so heavy as to 
>weight ten pounds on her head.  Could she have had on some kind of 
>really elaborate hat or headgear?
>
>Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
>
>On Wed, 08 Feb 2006 16:34:19 -0600 Melanie Schuessler
><melanie@faucet.net> writes:
> > I'm wondering about the Wife of Bath and what she's got on her head
> > in
> > the Canterbury Tales:
> >
> > "Hir coverchiefs ful fyne weren of ground,
> > I dorste swere they weyeden ten pound
> > That on a Sonday weren upon hir heed."
> >
> > Mainly I'm wondering about the use of the word "ground" in the first
> >
> > line. I've seen a suggestion that this could translate to mean
> > "texture", as in "her coverchiefs were of a very fine texture".
> >
> > The OED doesn't seem to offer any goodies, but perhaps I missed
> > something--the entries for "ground" are quite long! Does anyone
> > have
> > other information about this?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Melanie Schuessler
> >
> >
>
>_____________________________________________________________
>Netscape. just the net you need
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
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The kind and helpful ladies at Piecework have given me the following 
address where people in the U.K. can order a subscription or back 
copies of "Piecework", and other American sewing related magazines.

http://www.hangingbyathread.co.uk/

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Simplicity's new natural form era gown, opinions?
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 16:29:54 -0500
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Based on about 6/8 items in my antique inventory that this garment is trying
to emulate, bodices in this decade of the new pattern are always boned...in
addition to having the corset boned. The relaxed look would only be seen in
the reformed dress (sans corset) and probably never in such a formal
garment.
The poufffs at the hip seem very contrived; and the shoe topper skirt is
showing too much shoe (and horrors! an ankle)  it is true that skirts were
somewhat shorter in this time period, but I think not for formal attire.

My two cents worth, based on real garments that I have seen and inspected...

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 12:26 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Simplicity's new natural form era gown, opinions?


> I was just browsing Simplicity's website (I got a free pattern for
> submitting a sewing tip to their 'idea exchange') and I found that they
have
> a new historic costume pattern,
> http://www.simplicity.com/dv1_v4.cfm?design=4244 it looks like a bustle or
> natural form period gown, they may be trying to cash in on The Phantom of
> the Opera (though it seems a bit late) as their model does look quite a
bit
> like Emmy Rossum (who played the main character, Christine) although they
do
> already have a version of the costume she wears when she does her solo on
> stage for the rest of the film she wears typical late 1870s to early 1880s
> outfits.
> Anyway, onto my point does anybody have an opinion on how authentic this
is
> and whether any inauthentic parts would be fixable? The bodice doesn't
look
> too bad it's got 2 darts at the front and princess seams at the back, it
> reminds me of a polonaise except for the back drape. It would need fitting
> to be worn over a corset but otherwise I can't seem to pinpoint a flaw (I
> admit I don't like the look of the back of the skirt but I don't know if
> that's because it's inauthentic or I just dislike the style). Then again
> I've only done a little research into this era, so for those who have more
> expertise in natural form era outfits what is your opinion?
> Elizabeth
> --------------------------------------------
> Elizabeth Walpole
> Canberra Australia
> ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
> http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Simplicity's new natural form era gown, opinions?
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Exactly!
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 9:06 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Simplicity's new natural form era gown, opinions?


> The actual picture looks as if the side poof is pulled to the front
opening
> but the drawing view does not. I don't know if that is the problem you
seek,
> but that is one difference I see. The ones I've seen like this are pulled
> more towards the back, not to the front. They form the bustle and "butt
> enhancement" with all the poofyness.
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
> To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 12:26 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Simplicity's new natural form era gown, opinions?
>
>
> >I was just browsing Simplicity's website (I got a free pattern for
> > submitting a sewing tip to their 'idea exchange') and I found that they
> > have
> > a new historic costume pattern,
> > http://www.simplicity.com/dv1_v4.cfm?design=4244 it looks like a bustle
or
> > natural form period gown, they may be trying to cash in on The Phantom
of
> > the Opera (though it seems a bit late) as their model does look quite a
> > bit
> > like Emmy Rossum (who played the main character, Christine) although
they
> > do
> > already have a version of the costume she wears when she does her solo
on
> > stage for the rest of the film she wears typical late 1870s to early
1880s
> > outfits.
> > Anyway, onto my point does anybody have an opinion on how authentic this
> > is
> > and whether any inauthentic parts would be fixable? The bodice doesn't
> > look
> > too bad it's got 2 darts at the front and princess seams at the back, it
> > reminds me of a polonaise except for the back drape. It would need
fitting
> > to be worn over a corset but otherwise I can't seem to pinpoint a flaw
(I
> > admit I don't like the look of the back of the skirt but I don't know if
> > that's because it's inauthentic or I just dislike the style). Then again
> > I've only done a little research into this era, so for those who have
more
> > expertise in natural form era outfits what is your opinion?
> > Elizabeth
> > --------------------------------------------
> > Elizabeth Walpole
> > Canberra Australia
> > ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
> > http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 13:33:29 -0800 (PST)
From: Carletta da Nicolosi <carletta_nicolosi@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thank you Keri-Anne for this link.  It was VERY informative.  I have a Roman period Event coming up and this should really help.
   
  ~Carletta

Keri-Anne Lawton <kalawton@codexpublishing.ca> wrote:
  I don't know how extensive this article is but I just found it last
night looking for something else. 

http://www.housebarra.com/EP/ep04/08romanhair.html

Hope it's at least a starting point. 

Keri-Anne

		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 16:46:14 -0500
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Were these Fiscars or look-alikes?

One of the advantages of the Fiscar Soft Touch is that there is no finger
pinching.  I don't remember if they use this design with the scrapbook line.

One interesting note re Fiscar service on the ST products, at least, is that
you can get replacement springs when they give out (from overwork?).The last
time I requested replacements, they sent me a small handful!  Would that
they would would put a quality spring in to begin with.
Any way, the ST line has saved my fingers from calluses.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 11:06 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert


> ruthanneb@mindspring.com wrote:
>
> > Fiskar, I believe, makes a variety of pinking/dagging scissors--a
variety of designs. I don't have any, and I've seen them advertised only in
art-supply catalogs, so maybe their usefulness is limited to paper. I'm
always tempted to try a pair, but I can't decide among  wavy-cut, deep pink,
deckled-paper-effect, and the more complicated dags...and can't afford to
buy them all!
> > Again: maybe no good for fabric....Has anybody tried them?
> > --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
>
> I have a pair I bought when I made my wedding invitations, and I didn't
> think they were all that good on paper. The handles were small and hurt
> my hands -- though they cut ok -- I found them unpleasant to use. They
> probably would have worked on fabric when new, but they won't now. And
> how would you sharpen something like that anyway?
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
>
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Status: RO

Thanks for the links, guys! These will help.
 
So, are these hairnets made from sprang? 
 
http://www.vroma.org/images/mcmanus_images/hairnet2.jpg
 
http://www.vroma.org/images/mcmanus_images/hairnet1.jpg
 
And I know that they did use hairpieces and wigs, but I still would like to see them so I can figure out how it's done.
 
The fun thing about making art dolls is that I get to make it all: costumes, shoes, hats and hairstyles! Of course, sometimes that's the hard part, too... :)
 
Tea Rose
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Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 22:53:39 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert/Fiskars scissors
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At 21:46 10/02/2006, you wrote:
>Were these Fiscars or look-alikes?
>
>One of the advantages of the Fiscar Soft Touch is that there is no finger
>pinching.  I don't remember if they use this design with the scrapbook line.
>
>One interesting note re Fiscar service on the ST products, at least, is that
>you can get replacement springs when they give out (from overwork?).The last
>time I requested replacements, they sent me a small handful!  Would that
>they would would put a quality spring in to begin with.
>Any way, the ST line has saved my fingers from calluses.
>
>Kathleen


Thanks for the suggestion Kathleen. I inherited my Fiskars Soft Touch 
third hand and recently broke the spring. Someone is bringing me a 
new pair from the U.S. as they are so much cheaper. I am too cheap to 
buy another pair, and I am having to use a pair of Fiskars shears 
instead - not nearly so easy. So I just wrote to Fiskars UK for a new 
spring, or somewhere I can get them fixed. Great tip - thanks again.

Suzi


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I saw a shortened version of the commercial tonight.  Not as cute as the 
long version.  The costumes look a lot better on TV than on Google.  I don't 
know why Google's video player is so bad.

I agree, the king costume on the old commercials was really scary.  Wonder 
who thought that one up.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE: Washington DC
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 11:57:17 -0600
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I have stayed at the Harrington, also. My only recommendation is, stay on a lower floor. They have the world's SLOWEST elevator.

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Formo, Nathan
Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 10:36 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] RE: Washington DC


My family relies on Hotel Harrington.  It's basically 2 blocks from everything.  
1 blocks to the Old Post office for good cheap food. 
2 blocks from Fords Theater and Hard Rock CafĂ©
1.5 blocks to the nearest metro station
2 blocks from Museum of Natural History and the rest of the Smithsonian. http://www.hotel-harrington.com/mapdrivingdirections.htm

The rates are of course a little more expensive then a Motel 6 in the middle of nowhere but we haven't yet found anything cheaper and more conveniently located.  If you've got a group going you can't beat some of their larger room prices.  I always recommend this to friends and family.  We've never had any problems walking around at night and since it's so close to everything we save quite a bit on transportation.

Small note.  The parking garage is a few blocks away.  We unload at the hotel and then send someone to go park the car while the others check in.  Once you park just leave the car until your stay is over.  There's no reason to try driving around DC if you don't have to.

BjÇ«rn Arnaldsson 
 
Lord Bjorn Arnaldsson
Barony of Black Diamond 
 



>Message: 5
>Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 13:09:41 +0000
>From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
>Subject: [h-cost] O.T.
>To: h-costume@indra.com
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>
>
>
>I am hoping to be in Washington DC in June, and wondered if anyone
>knew of a not-too-expensive hotel within walking distance of the 
>Smithsonian. I hope to get an introduction there from a curator 
>friend, and see what I can see.
>
>Now I have to decide what I'd like to see!! (Whee!) And of course
>find out what I'll be allowed to see!!
>
>A very excited Suzi

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Subject: [h-cost] Re:fringed fleece boas  h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 127
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A local church may have a program for giving out warm clothes to the  
homeless. I volunteered on the "food van" run by the Adventist Church that went  to 
downtown Baltimore giving out hot soup sandwiches as well as coats, scarves,  
gloves, shoes, etc to the area homeless. 
 
Ola
 
In a message dated 2/10/2006 11:18:36 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

On Feb  10, 2006, at 11:04 AM, Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

> I made a whole slew  of those fringed fleece boas that were popular a 
> couple years ago,  with the intention of selling them all.  I did sell 
> a few on  ebay but am stuck now with about 25-30 of them and no one 
> wants them  anymore.  Does anyone have any ideas about an organization 
> I  might donate them to?  They're really warm but unfortunately, went  
> out of style really fast.
>
>  Sylrog




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In a message dated 2/10/2006 2:37:15 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

As I  live in London, and manage to get to Europe a lot (the Louvre, 
the Prado  etc) I don't really need to see European stuff. (Or 
Tudor/Shakespeare for  that matter - born and bred in Warwickshire!). 
I suppose I mostly make  Georgian costume, in all its years, including 
Regency of  course.



All the more reason to hit the Museum of the American Indian. When are you  
ever gonna see this kind of stuff again? ;-)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles
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tearoses@aol.com wrote:

> Hi, 
> Can anyone point me to a reference for how to dress Roman ladies' hair? I've found a some simple styles, but wasn't there a period when they wore really tall, complicated hairstyles? 
>  


Wasn't a lot of that done with wigs? I seem to recall references to wigs 
from my Roman lit courses.



Dawn


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From: Anne <adelaide@genevahistoricalsociety.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help Identify 19th Century Painting
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Dawn,
    I don't know the identity of the artist, but I don't think he is a
pre-Raphaelite, unless he is an older member of that movement. According 
to Victorianweb.org, the Pre-Raphaelite brotherhood was founded in 1848 
and the earliest listed  member was born in 1827, about 10 years older 
than this artist if he was in his 20s in 1839. However, I agree that the 
portrait is reminiscent of the Pre-Raphaelite movement and is Romanitic 
in style. If you find out who it is, please post to the list.
Anne
-- 
Anne Dealy
adelaideatgenevahistoricalsociety.com
(be sure to change "at" to "@")

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From: Elizabeth Young <lizyoung@fenris.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: pinking shears
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We just had a discussion about this on r.c.t.sewing
It seems that there are shears that cannot be sharpened, shears that 
have been so abused (dropped, sharpened by idiots, etc.) that they can 
no longer be sharpened, but that reasonably well cared for, reasonable 
quality shears can be sharpened.

This fellow, who sharpens knives and scissors professionally, was quite 
helpful in the discussion. Of course, he does sell sharpening services. 
http://www.villagesharpener.com/
Have not gotten around to sending my shears there yet.

I don't know about sharpening other sorts of pinked cutters.

liz young

Debloughcostumes@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 2/9/06 7:04:48 PM GMT Standard Time, 
> h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
> 
> 
>>And 
>>how would you sharpen something like that anyway?
> 
> 
> When I got my first pair of pinking shears (just normal zig-zaggy ones) I was 
> told they can be professionally sharpened once, and that's it - any more and 
> they can't guaratee that the teeth will still meet
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 16:50:07 -0500
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Richard Coursons's Hair book is the best reference I know of.  Since you
spend time researching examples of Fine Art that you probably can identify
his sources as you see them reduces to blackline drawings.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <tearoses@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 4:16 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles


> Hi,
> Can anyone point me to a reference for how to dress Roman ladies' hair?
I've found a some simple styles, but wasn't there a period when they wore
really tall, complicated hairstyles?
>
> Oh, and has anyone seen this book: Daring Do's: History of hairstyles by
Trasko? Is it any good?
>
> Thanks!
> Tea Rose
>
>
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From: Hope Greenberg <Hope.Greenberg@uvm.edu>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wife of Bath's headcovering
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Here's the appropriate bits from Hodges, Laura F. "Chaucer and Costume: 
The Secular Pilgrims in the General Prologue." (Cambridge: D.S. Brewer, 
2000) pp. 163 - 172.

Echoes what has already been said here, but I thought it was 
interesting nonetheless! BTW, here's the usual picture:
http://www.unc.edu/depts/chaucer/zatta/wife.jpg

Excerpts, without footnotes:

"Alisoun's Sunday garb includes three items of expensive dress 
commonplace in estates satires: a headdress notable enough to swear by, 
fine red hosiery, and new shoes. Those members of parliament who 
wished, through sumptuary laws, to regulate dress according to income 
and birth would probably agree that the Wife's cumulative inheritances 
and her cloth-making success entitled her to dress in this 
manner...However, the satirists and moralists would not have been so 
generous...
"The moralists were most concerned with what they deemed excess in 
dress as it demonstrated the sin of pride..."

Hodges then goes on to give examples of how Chaucer and others often 
used an ornate headdress to signify pride, vanity, temptation/unchaste 
behavior, and/or an attempt to challenge their husbands as heads of 
households, but continues...

"However, the study of the history of costume and textiles throws 
additional light on the coverchiefs suggested in Chaucer's description. 
In the past, critics have debated the nature of these coverchiefs and 
the issue of how fashionable they may have been. To clarify these 
separate issues, several things must be considered. 'Hir coverchiefs 
ful fyne weren of ground' (I, line 453) which Riverside glosses 'fine 
in texture', indicates quality. However, the first MED definition for 
ground in this context is 'the background for ornamentation of fabric', 
and both the MED and OED cite Chaucer's usage in this line as the first 
literary example. Further, this definition facilitates a better 
understanding of Chaucer's attribution of heavy weight to this 
headdress. Granted that a fine fabric was used, what kind of decorated 
coverchiefs might make a weight of ten pounds? Stella Mary Newton and 
Mary M. Giza provide an answer to this question. They describe a veil 
headdress that began to appear in illuminations and sculpture by the 
1360s, one which they characterize as 'veils edged with a forest of 
frills in airy layers almost impossible to count' and very difficult 
for sculptors to portray except in a stylized manner... [list some 
examples and provides drawing of the headdress that should be familiar 
to most h-costumers!]...The multiple frills at the veil's edge are 
achieved through a weaving process, by adding considerably to the 
threads at the selvedge edge, thus producing the fluted or goffered 
appearance, and additional weight."

"The air flow from the forward movement of dame Alisoun, striding 
toward the alter rail, would have lifted and fluffed the frills of such 
coverchiefs and added to the appearance of fullness and 
weight...Nevertheless even the most beruffled coverchiefs would be 
unlikely to weight ten ounds...and we should read the narrator's 
oath...as comic hyperbole directed at a fanciful headdress."

"As funeral brasses from the 1360s onward make clear, elegant 
coverchiefs so beruffled that they give the impression of heacy weight 
were in style in the late 1380s. They were neither a new style nor a 
fading style at that time, and Chaucer's description suggests that the 
Wife wears such a headdress, one that demonstrates her knowledge of 
fine quality in fabric and familiarity with special weaving techniques. 
In her portrait her coverchiefs serve as her hallmark; they adorn at 
the same time that they advertise, both for business and pleasure, 
especially so since, for dame Alisoun, the two are so frequently 
indistinguishable."

Hodges goes on to suggest that an additional association between 
coverchief and the word coverture. "Legally, coverture is 'the 
condition or position of a woman during her married life, when she is 
by law under the authority and protection of her husbane' (OED), a 
definition that the Wife's description of her five marriages makes 
highly ironic and that invests any coverchiefs, symbol of marital 
subjection, with the same irony."

"The Wife's coverchiefs, then, are a highly charged costume sign: they 
are literally a gesture of submission to her married and legal status, 
as depited in Chaucer's designation 'good WF' (line 445) and to St. 
Paul's dictum that womne's heads should be covered in church; 
economically the proclamation of a cloth-maker's community status and 
wealth; aesthetically the beautiful veiling of an attractive, seductive 
woman, and morally the announcement of a woman's pride, materialism, 
and by extension her unchastity, her sexual manipulation confessed so 
blatently in her Prologue."


- Hope

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Subject: [h-cost] fine drawing samples
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I don't know if this helps with the definition you're looking for or not, but here are two samples of "fine drawing" from Woolman's "Sewing Course," c1900, where it's used to patch damask. It was also used on heavy cloth as the stitches could be hidden in the material. It's different from seaming, but it does join two pieces butted together without overlap the way seaming does.
   
  http://www.hollisandbell.com/Cat7706/finedrawing01.jpg
  http://www.hollisandbell.com/Cat7706/finedrawing03.jpg
   
  The dotted piece is about 2.5 cm and the fringed one just over 3 cm.
   
  I have a brief description and illustration of it in my book, "Plain Needlework - A Guide to Nineteenth Century Hand Sewing."  http://hollisandbell.com/
   
  Melissa Roberts

			
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Feb 10 20:34:43 2006
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Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 19:59:31 -0600 (CST)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help Identify 19th Century Painting
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Definitely not pre-Raphaelite, on stylistic grounds alone. The
pre-Raphaelites did not do formal portraits of men in suits in front of
drapery, and did not use these highly refined techniques of light and
shadow, which for them were a mark of the traditional style they were
rebelling against.

Pre-Raphaelite pictures, even when set in contemporary times, tend to tell
stories, are set in natural surroundings or detailed interiors, and use a
great deal of color and a "flat" technique in which all parts of the
picture are illuminated and recorded.

No luck for me either on identifying it, though.

--Robin

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Feb 10 21:19:28 2006
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert/Fiskars scissors
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 21:20:02 -0500
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You are welcome!  The first time the problem happened, I sent the shears in
for service.  The last time, it was the 'clippers'.  They not only replaced
the spring in the ailing pair but sent along a new pair!  (Funny, the
clippers  never go on sale).  Also, the size of the clipper spring is about
one turn less than the Shears, so it makes a small difference when you are
trying to keep them in service.

kathleen



.----- Original Message ----- From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 5:53 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert/Fiskars scissors


> At 21:46 10/02/2006, you wrote:
> >Were these Fiscars or look-alikes?
> >
> >One of the advantages of the Fiscar Soft Touch is that there is no finger
> >pinching.  I don't remember if they use this design with the scrapbook
line.
> >
> >One interesting note re Fiscar service on the ST products, at least, is
that
> >you can get replacement springs when they give out (from overwork?).The
last
> >time I requested replacements, they sent me a small handful!  Would that
> >they would would put a quality spring in to begin with.
> >Any way, the ST line has saved my fingers from calluses.
> >
> >Kathleen
>
>
> Thanks for the suggestion Kathleen. I inherited my Fiskars Soft Touch
> third hand and recently broke the spring. Someone is bringing me a
> new pair from the U.S. as they are so much cheaper. I am too cheap to
> buy another pair, and I am having to use a pair of Fiskars shears
> instead - not nearly so easy. So I just wrote to Fiskars UK for a new
> spring, or somewhere I can get them fixed. Great tip - thanks again.
>
> Suzi
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fine drawing samples
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jmhr3@yahoo.com wrote:

> I don't know if this helps with the definition you're looking for or not, but here are two samples of "fine drawing" from Woolman's "Sewing Course," c1900, where it's used to patch damask. It was also used on heavy cloth as the stitches could be hidden in the material. It's different from seaming, but it does join two pieces butted together without overlap the way seaming does.
>    
>   http://www.hollisandbell.com/Cat7706/finedrawing01.jpg
>   http://www.hollisandbell.com/Cat7706/finedrawing03.jpg
>    

Thanks, but in the quote I was looking at, the seam has already been 
backstitched, so it doesn't make any sense that it would then use a 
technique like that. I think it's more likely to be the ladder-stitch 
that was suggested before, as a method of reinforcement to prevent the 
center seam from having too much stress on it.


Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wife of Bath's headcovering
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Wow--thanks so much for typing all that in!  Very interesting!  That 
adds a lot to what I've seen before.

Thanks ever so,
Melanie Schuessler


Hope Greenberg wrote:
> Here's the appropriate bits from Hodges, Laura F. "Chaucer and Costume: 
> The Secular Pilgrims in the General Prologue." (Cambridge: D.S. Brewer, 
> 2000) pp. 163 - 172.
> 
> Echoes what has already been said here, but I thought it was interesting 
> nonetheless! BTW, here's the usual picture:
> http://www.unc.edu/depts/chaucer/zatta/wife.jpg
> 
> Excerpts, without footnotes:
...

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Subject: [h-cost] Re mending
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Thanks for all the tips and advice. I've made a good start on darning the 
holes. Some of the small darns are practically invisible.
kelly, I could send you a ball of(sob sob) hand spun yarn full of moths to 
put in with your riding habit but I think there may be some laws about 
sending insects abroad! The discovery of the moths in my knitting wools was 
rather upsetting. On the plus side my home now smells lovely as i've made a 
load of pommanders which I hope will keep the moths away.

thanks Joan, I developed type two diabetes and discovered that by 
controlling it with diet I started to loose weight. But I miss chocolate and 
biscuits soooooo much.
regards
Joy

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Roman women's hairstyles
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 22:45:13 -0500
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On Friday 10 February 2006 5:17 pm, tearoses@aol.com wrote:
> Thanks for the links, guys! These will help.
>
> So, are these hairnets made from sprang?
>
> http://www.vroma.org/images/mcmanus_images/hairnet2.jpg
>
> http://www.vroma.org/images/mcmanus_images/hairnet1.jpg

I've seen pictures of these before, and they look like they were metal, 
instead of metallic thread.  However, you could make similar ones using 
sprang, and sprang goes back far enough that it was probably known to the 
Romans.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical 
results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] fine drawing samples
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 21:43:42 -0600
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Those remind me greatly of the stitch used in "pattern darning"
Of an Icelandic altar-cloth (charted by Carol... hmm; I'll find it if
anybody really needs to know); which I also saw taught/demonstrated at a
Pennsic class on hand sewing as a technique to repair small rips: up through
the cloth beside the rip, down thru the cut and up again on the other side-
repeat for a bit of a figure 8 pattern. Works really well too!
Betsy

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of jmhr3@yahoo.com
Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 7:11 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] fine drawing samples

I don't know if this helps with the definition you're looking for or not,
but here are two samples of "fine drawing" from Woolman's "Sewing Course,"
c1900, where it's used to patch damask. It was also used on heavy cloth as
the stitches could be hidden in the material. It's different from seaming,
but it does join two pieces butted together without overlap the way seaming
does.
   
  http://www.hollisandbell.com/Cat7706/finedrawing01.jpg
  http://www.hollisandbell.com/Cat7706/finedrawing03.jpg
   
  The dotted piece is about 2.5 cm and the fringed one just over 3 cm.
   
  I have a brief description and illustration of it in my book, "Plain
Needlework - A Guide to Nineteenth Century Hand Sewing."
http://hollisandbell.com/
   
  Melissa Roberts

			
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 23:51:28 -0500
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On Thursday 09 February 2006 4:16 pm, tearoses@aol.com wrote:
> Hi,
> Can anyone point me to a reference for how to dress Roman ladies' hair?
> I've found a some simple styles, but wasn't there a period when they wore
> really tall, complicated hairstyles?
>
> Oh, and has anyone seen this book: Daring Do's: History of hairstyles by
> Trasko? Is it any good?

I looked through it in a bookstore once.   Fewer illustrations than I'd like,  
and very un-informative text.  Moreover, I don't think it had any pictures 
whatsoever of Roman period styles.  Don't waste your money.

If you want pictures of Roman ladies' hair styles, there's a nice little 
section in A.T. Croom's "Roman Clothing and Fashion," which is still in print 
and not too expensive (I think it runs about $35 USD).

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical 
results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
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Miniatures of Nicholas Hillard and his wife Alice Brandon.
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Nicholas_Hilliard_021.jpg
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Nicholas_Hilliard_001.jpg
De

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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: fine drawing?
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<--- "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz> wrote:
<
<michaela de bruce
<http://glittersweet.com
<6 days of digests to go through... oh boy;)

I feel for you - I neglected my email for the last 3 days, and am now working my way through 425-odd messages! 8-P

Joannah

~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~






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In a message dated 2/10/2006 11:55:51 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
otsisto@socket.net writes:

Miniatures of Nicholas Hillard and his wife Alice  Brandon.



Those are really neat!  However, may I humbly suggest a little more  info in 
a post like this, to give us a hint of the period.  I suppose that,  if I 
don't know who Nicholas Hillard is, I can assume that is not a period of  primary 
interest for me, and it certainly didn't hurt me to look at the pictures  
anyway.  However, how about, in future, saying something like "Miniatures  of  
.... , circa 1577"?
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fine drawing 
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You're right. Fine drawing is described in the
instructions as "like lacing" so it sounds like it
could be used to reinforce a seam. It just wouldn't
look anything like the pictures I posted when used
that way. :-)

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Agreed. Costumes great. Movies bite. Books rock.

Bice


On 2/9/06, Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com> wrote:
>
> At 02:40 PM 2/8/2006, you wrote:
> >I got the newly issued DVD of "Dune"....another film much hated but I
> love
> >because I don't find it confusing [and I've never read the books]
>
>
> While I really enjoyed both sets of movies (SciFi version, and the
> original
> movie with extended info), the books are so much better imho. If you
> haven't read them, do, at least the first three books. I've read most of
> that series, and the first three are much better, with the story going
> whacky imho after that.
>
> But I will also admit to enjoying the SciFi movie costumes very much, even
> if the storylines are a bit changed. It's been a long while since I saw
> the
> original movie (when it came out in the theatre, and again when the
> extended aired on tv although I vaguely watched it because I was working),
> so I won't comment there.
>
> Kimiko
>
>
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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <8C7FBD533E271E5-788-158EF@MBLK-M22.sysops.aol.com>
	<200602102351.28977.cathy@thyrsus.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles
Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2006 08:56:49 -0500
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I have it on the shelf, but it is in the file to discard.
  Does anyone not know  about the R.Courson book I mentioned earlier.  He
covers hair styles from almost pre-history through most of the twentieth
Century.  This volume is about 3" thick; the drawings are based on statuary
of the ancients through gleanings from pictorial evidences of art and
photography.  All of the pic's are black and white line renderings of hair
style from any of the periods.  And it carries a fairly comprehensive
bibliography as well as interpretive  descriptions .

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 11:51 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles


> On Thursday 09 February 2006 4:16 pm, tearoses@aol.com wrote:
> > Hi,
> > Can anyone point me to a reference for how to dress Roman ladies' hair?
> > I've found a some simple styles, but wasn't there a period when they
wore
> > really tall, complicated hairstyles?
> >
> > Oh, and has anyone seen this book: Daring Do's: History of hairstyles by
> > Trasko? Is it any good?
>
> I looked through it in a bookstore once.   Fewer illustrations than I'd
like,
> and very un-informative text.  Moreover, I don't think it had any pictures
> whatsoever of Roman period styles.  Don't waste your money.
>
> If you want pictures of Roman ladies' hair styles, there's a nice little
> section in A.T. Croom's "Roman Clothing and Fashion," which is still in
print
> and not too expensive (I think it runs about $35 USD).
>
> -- 
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical
> results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] new to me
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Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 11:49 PM
Subject: [h-cost] new to me


> Miniatures of Nicholas Hillard and his wife Alice Brandon.
> http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Nicholas_Hilliard_021.jpg
> http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Nicholas_Hilliard_001.jpg
> De


Wow--what a beautiful couple they made! He was a handsome devil, wasn't he?

Fiant simii!

Dianne
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From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] new to me
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Does her lace ruff stop at the shoulder?  It almost looks like it attaches to her black veil.  Is that usual?  Can't remember seeing anything like that before, but Elizabethan isn't my primary period (yet).  Thanks
Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:

From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 22:49:13 -0600
To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] new to me

Miniatures of Nicholas Hillard and his wife Alice Brandon.
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Nicholas_Hilliard_021.jpg
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Nicholas_Hilliard_001.jpg
De

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Subject: [h-cost] Dune costumes
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While I really enjoyed both sets of movies (SciFi version, and the
>  original
> movie with extended info), the books are so much better  imho
 
One should never go to a movie based on a book and expect it to be in any  
way true to the book's story.  Different medium.  Then one is less  often 
disappointed.  I loved the Dune books.  I also loved the David  Lynch "Dune" movie.  
If any of you are fans of particular film directors,  as I am of David Lynch, 
you go to that movie to see what that director has done  with the story, not 
to see a reenactment scene-by-scene of the book.  At  least, that is my 
opinion.  If you're looking for the same story as the  book, you are bound to be 
disappointed most of the time.  Where was Tom  Bombadil, after all, in Lord of 
the Rings?
 
That said, the process of designing costumes for a science fiction film or  
fantasy is that the world you are creating never really existed.  So you  get 
to create the world, along with the rest of the design team. So much  fun!  And 
the choices in "Dune" the movie (the 80's one with Sting) are  very 
interesting.  I particularly liked the moisture-trapping suits.   The name for them 
escapes me.  And, of course, the Court.  And the  creepy Baron. (shudder) and how 
all of these choices related to the  characters.
 
Cheryl Odom
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Becky wrote:

> Try watching the latest series on HBO or Cimemax, Called Ceasar. It's great.
> It portrays all the nasty things people think but pretend don't happen in
> society. Just proves that nothing is new, even sexual orientation,
> seduction, powergrabs and political arrangements through sex.

You thought any of that was new? :-)

Gail Finke

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles
Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2006 13:02:27 -0500
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On Saturday 11 February 2006 8:56 am, Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
> I have it on the shelf, but it is in the file to discard.
>   Does anyone not know  about the R.Courson book I mentioned earlier.  

Yes, I am familiar with Corson's book.  However, I believe it's out of print. 
It's certainly hard to find; after prowling the Internet for awhile I managed 
to score a copy for $75 USD.  That's why I didn't recommend it first to the 
lady who started this thread.  

>   He 
> covers hair styles from almost pre-history through most of the twentieth
> Century.  This volume is about 3" thick; the drawings are based on statuary
> of the ancients through gleanings from pictorial evidences of art and
> photography.  All of the pic's are black and white line renderings of hair
> style from any of the periods.  And it carries a fairly comprehensive
> bibliography as well as interpretive  descriptions .

You are quite right, Kathleen.  Corson's book is my basic reference for 
hairstyles though it's not cheap to obtain.  My bet is that it'd be easy 
enough to find via ILL though.  

Corson also did a book on the history of makeup which I will eventually track 
down, time and cost permitting.  :-)


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical 
results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
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I just saw a fantastic DVD I bought of Offenbach's "La Vie Parisienne." 
This production was put on by the Opera National de Lyon; it has English 
subtitles. The costumes are around 1876, more or less--they're stage 
costumes.

But who cares about the costumes?  The opera is a vivid, simultaneously 
cynical and sentimental evocation of the demi-monde, with very witty 
lyrics and dialog. It gives all the details of things like how a grande 
horizontale juggles her lovers, and how people party at a fashionable 
restaurant (the head waiter instructs new staff on when and when not to 
enter a room in which a couple are dining), how they drink all night, 
the various postures they wake up in, how they order tea and stagger home.

The singing and acting in this production are brilliant, and the music, 
of course, is wonderful.

Fran
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Cheryl wrote:
 I particularly liked the moisture-trapping suits.   The name for them 
> escapes me.  

Still-suits.

       -Helen/Aidan
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I've been contacted by a woman who wants a fantasy costume and headpiece 
made for her, for a performance she is doing. She'd like to work with 
someone local to her in Tennessee.

Let me know if you might be interested and I will give her your contact 
info.



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] DVDs
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In a message dated 2/11/2006 1:14:40 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

> I just saw a fantastic DVD I bought of Offenbach's "La Vie Parisienne." 
> 

I love Offenbach! "Les Contes d'Hoffmann" is one of my fave operas [Right 
after Monteverdi's "Orfeo" and Mozart's "Le Nozzi"]. Now there's a great costume 
project! I'll have to check it out.
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Do you know a really good DVD of Les Contes d'Hoffmann, musically, and 
in terms of the technical quality of transferring the music, and where 
they didn't go and use modern clothes for costumes or something?

The San Francisco Opera DVD of "Die Fledermaus" is absolutely wonderful BTW.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

> 
> 
> I love Offenbach! "Les Contes d'Hoffmann" is one of my fave operas [Right 
> after Monteverdi's "Orfeo" and Mozart's "Le Nozzi"]. Now there's a great costume 
> project! I'll have to check it out.
> 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dune costumes
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At 07:58 AM 2/11/2006, you wrote:
>I particularly liked the moisture-trapping suits.   The name for them
>escapes me.


Still suits, iirc. It's been awhile.

Kimiko


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<200602111302.27981.cathy@thyrsus.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles
Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2006 17:26:44 -0500
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Status: RO

I have the makeup book also. The book were given to me by a former
director...sort of in his will.  I will check my shelf for what might be a
digest version that I have acquired. (And thanks for the sp.check..)

Also, I think that Cassine-Scott did a fair job in his Greek and Roman
handbook for the stage.  At least a jumping off point.

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2006 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles


> On Saturday 11 February 2006 8:56 am, Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
> > I have it on the shelf, but it is in the file to discard.
> >   Does anyone not know  about the R.Courson book I mentioned earlier.
>
> Yes, I am familiar with Corson's book.  However, I believe it's out of
print.
> It's certainly hard to find; after prowling the Internet for awhile I
managed
> to score a copy for $75 USD.  That's why I didn't recommend it first to
the
> lady who started this thread.
>
> >   He
> > covers hair styles from almost pre-history through most of the twentieth
> > Century.  This volume is about 3" thick; the drawings are based on
statuary
> > of the ancients through gleanings from pictorial evidences of art and
> > photography.  All of the pic's are black and white line renderings of
hair
> > style from any of the periods.  And it carries a fairly comprehensive
> > bibliography as well as interpretive  descriptions .
>
> You are quite right, Kathleen.  Corson's book is my basic reference for
> hairstyles though it's not cheap to obtain.  My bet is that it'd be easy
> enough to find via ILL though.
>
> Corson also did a book on the history of makeup which I will eventually
track
> down, time and cost permitting.  :-)
>
>
> -- 
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical
> results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Called stealth suits
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2006 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dune costumes


> At 07:58 AM 2/11/2006, you wrote:
>>I particularly liked the moisture-trapping suits.   The name for them
>>escapes me.
> 
> 
> Still suits, iirc. It's been awhile.
> 
> Kimiko
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: OT...Les Contes d'Hoffann...was DVDs
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In a message dated 2/11/2006 9:44:34 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

> Do you know a really good DVD of Les Contes d'Hoffmann, musically, and 
> in terms of the technical quality of transferring the music, and where 
> they didn't go and use modern clothes for costumes or something?
> 

********************

I have the DVD with Placido Domingo doing Hoffmann...on the Kultur label. 
It's not bad. But there are several versions. Here's a link to ArkivMusic's page 
of them:

 ArkivMusic | Album List Page

But my fave recording [not DVD...just a CD] is with Francisco Araiza:


 ArkivMusic | Offenbach: Tales Of Hoffmann / Tate, Norman, Araiza, Et Al 

This is not your usual version you hear in the opera house. They have 
restored the complete introduction with the scene with the Muse....who disguises 
herself as Nicklausse to keep Hoffmann true to his art. [suddenly a lot of things 
make more sense, don't they?] And the speaking scenes are restored...but you 
lose Copelias' aria about "eyes". [Offenbach died while they were preparing the 
1st production. Afterwhich...the producers did what they wanted, composing it 
thru and eliminating a lot of stuff.] The Antonia act is second instead of 
last, The Giuietta act is last with a very different ending. Instead of her just 
leaving Hoffmann, Dapertutto plots his death by poisoning a glass of wine. 
But Giulietta drinks it by mistake and drops dead as Dapertutto laughs.

Doncha love opera??? Like Anna Russell says: "You can do anything, as long as 
you sing it."


Any of you who are not familiar with this opera, I highly recommend it. It 
one of the greats...in either version.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: OT...Les Contes d'Hoffann...was DVDs
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I'm sorry....I forgot the links won't post if I just drag them in the e-mail.


here they are:

DVDs

http://www.arkivmusic.com/classical/Drilldown?album_group=2&comp_id=2182&
name_role1=1&name_id1=8878

The CD

http://www.arkivmusic.com/classical/Drilldown?name_id1=8878&name_role1=1&
comp_id=2182&genre=180&bcorder=195&name_id=14658&name_role=2  


I hope this works....
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Thanks for the tips! I'll look around for the Courson book; I have a  feeling 
that, as a dollmaker, I'll find a reference like that highly useful.  I'll 
check out the Croom book, too. 
 
I just found this website and thought I'd pass it on to the group;  it offers 
an extensive section on unusual historical costume books:
 
_http://www.needleworkbooks.com/_ (http://www.needleworkbooks.com/) 
 
Tea Rose
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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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> 
> I have the DVD with Placido Domingo doing Hoffmann...on the Kultur label. 
> It's not bad. But there are several versions. Here's a link to ArkivMusic's page 
> of them:

OK, I just bought that one.

>
> Doncha love opera??? Like Anna Russell says: "You can do anything, as long as 
> you sing it."

My father was an opera fan for many years, though  I think he's mostly 
lost interest. He used to take me to the opera sometimes when I was a 
kid, but he also used to play the NY Metropolitan Opera Saturday 
afternoon live broadcasts at top volume, all the way through, so he 
could hear them anywhere in the house.  As did everyone else in the family.

I just rediscovered opera recently. Aside from Verdi, who I liked a lot 
as a kid, and "Carmen," which I liked most of all, I'm investigating 
light opera/operetta--things like the "Merry Widow" (that BTW is what I 
meant when I recommended the San Francisco Opera DVD; I have a great DVD 
of "Die Fledermaus," but it's another opera company).  I got all 
Donizetti's light operas, and now I'm working through Offenbach.  My 
father recommended "Die Meistersinger" but I didn't care for it. Richard 
Strauss I find annoying as a composer.  I have a great DVD of 
"Patience," but the BBC Gilbert & Sullivan DVDs have lackluster reviews.

Any recommendations for light opera DVDs?

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Roman women's hairstyles, rare book site
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 00:33:31 -0500
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On Saturday 11 February 2006 11:41 pm, TeaRoseS@aol.com wrote:
> Thanks for the tips! I'll look around for the Courson book; I have a 
> feeling that, as a dollmaker, I'll find a reference like that highly
> useful.  I'll check out the Croom book, too.

You're welcome.  Good luck!
>
> I just found this website and thought I'd pass it on to the group;  it
> offers an extensive section on unusual historical costume books:
>
> _http://www.needleworkbooks.com/_ (http://www.needleworkbooks.com/)

Thanks for the pointer!  There's some interesting stuff here, including some 
stuff I've been toying with buying for a while.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical 
results, but that's not why we do it."--Richard Feynman
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
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I think costumers (and medieval re-enactors) will read this one in a
rather different way from the rest of the world:

http://www.chron.com/apps/comics/buildcp.mpl?c=152&date=2006/2/12&v=3.0

--Robin


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<--- Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:
<snip
<It gives all the details of things like how a grande 
<horizontale juggles her lovers, 
<
<Fran

What a *fantastic* description - 'grande horizontale'! 

Joannah

~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~




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Hi!
   
  After 13 years my lightbulb has finally gone in my sewing machine ( a Toyota that is so old that it has no name or model number!), and I wondered if anyone has had a lightbulb in their sewing machine that has lasted longer?  
   
  Best Wishes
  Jayne

		
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>--- Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net> wrote:
>
>Becky wrote:
>
>> Try watching the latest series on HBO or Cimemax, Called Ceasar. It's great.
>> It portrays all the nasty things people think but pretend don't happen in
>> society. Just proves that nothing is new, even sexual orientation,
>> seduction, powergrabs and political arrangements through sex.
>
>You thought any of that was new? :-)
>
>Gail Finke

I had the thought, when the whole Charles/Diana scandal things were happening, that the monarchy was just reverting to how it used to be. 

Joannah

~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~



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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dune costumes
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No, sorry, it's definitely 'stillsuit' - I just checked in 'Children of Dune', that being the book that was closest to hand.

Joannah

~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~

--- "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com> wrote:

Called stealth suits

----- Original Message -----
 
From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>

> At 07:58 AM 2/11/2006, you wrote:
>>I particularly liked the moisture-trapping suits.   The name for them
>>escapes me.
> 
> 
> Still suits, iirc. It's been awhile.
> 
> Kimiko
> 


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From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dune costumes
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Becky <zeartiste@hotmail.com> wrote: 
  Called stealth suits
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kimiko Small" 
To: "Historical Costume" 
Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2006 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dune costumes


> At 07:58 AM 2/11/2006, you wrote:
>>I particularly liked the moisture-trapping suits. The name for them
>>escapes me.
> 
> 
> Still suits, iirc. It's been awhile.
   
  COMMENT
  Well, I have the original issues of "Analog", [the large-format Sci-Fi Mag which had been the A-5-sized "Astounding"]  - in which the very first stories of Dune were published, AFAIK, - and the moisture trapping suits are surely called "still suits" in Herbert's text as published therein.
   
  Just my two drachm's-worth by water-counters.
   
  Julian, 
  still on the side of House  Atreides, but running a little low on melange.

		
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Jayne~
 
I have an Elna that I purchased two weeks before my daughter was born, and  
have used through countless heirloom outfits for my children and the many  
commissions I have lost count of, as well as more costumes, prom gowns and  period 
clothing than I can even begin to add up.
 
The daughter turns 22 on April 22, so the machine has been plugging away  for 
almost 22 years with the same light.  The only part I have had to  replace 
was the little airmatic foot because the rubber had started to lose air  and it 
would cause the machine to slow down when I was whizzing along.
 
I still have the spare bulb that I purchased for that 'just in case'  
emergency, because of course I expected my original bulb to die in the  middle of the 
night when I had to have something finished the next day.
 
:)
~Kimberley
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