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From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Clothes fitting
Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2006 00:39:25 -0800
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Status: RO

A friend of mine works at Levi and says they have MANY more sizes available,
which you can try, and then they will tweak the closest fit for you and keep
the info, so that whenever you want another pair, you just phone and have
them sent.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Marie Stewart
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2006 10:30 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Clothes fitting


Yeup... and I thought seriously about trying a pair... but in the end found
another maker of jeans that fit - sigh - well enough,  although I am always
wanting the denim to be of a heavier weight.

On 3/31/06, Sharon at Collierfam.com <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote:
> Mari, do you know of the custom fit jeans available from Levis? Sharon
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] 
> On Behalf Of Marie Stewart
> Sent: Friday, March 31, 2006 6:39 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Clothes fitting
>
>
> Thank you for that article... very interesting.
>
> Now what the retailers are missing is the opportunity to expand, and 
> raise their sales.
>
> Imagine...  A large chain adopts the Fitlogic system.   Inside their
> stores,  they create separate boutiques, or even a small independent 
> entity. One for each body type.  Stock the items that flatter that 
> body type the most in their respective sections.  In larger chains you 
> could even have different stock for a particular body type in 
> different stores.  If a customer  finds something they like in one 
> section, but it is not their body type,  allow them to order (or
> request from another store) that item in the fit they want.   This
> wouldn't be anything revolutionary,  major chains already swap 
> clothing around between stores.
>
> How many women would love to have a store that they knew the items 
> would be a better fit.  You see it already, women have brand loyalty, 
> if a line provides better fit.
>
> Oooooh,  just think about it... stores might actually have to sell 
> more items on style and quality if they took out the fit roulette.
>
> Mari  -  still irked that Banana Republic stopped making "the perfect 
> fitting jean" in 1992.
>
> >Clothes That Fit the Woman, Not the Store
> > By MICHAEL BARBARO
> > Published: March 31, 2006
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Clothes fitting
Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2006 09:00:27 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Sharon,

That is great news!  How do we go about fitting ourselves for the "MANY 
more sizes"?  Who do we contact?  Any idea of the cost?

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Apr 1, 2006, at 3:39 AM, Sharon at Collierfam.com wrote:

> A friend of mine works at Levi and says they have MANY more sizes 
> available,
> which you can try, and then they will tweak the closest fit for you 
> and keep
> the info, so that whenever you want another pair, you just phone and 
> have
> them sent.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] 
> On
> Behalf Of Marie Stewart
> Sent: Friday, March 31, 2006 10:30 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Clothes fitting
>
>
> Yeup... and I thought seriously about trying a pair... but in the end 
> found
> another maker of jeans that fit - sigh - well enough,  although I am 
> always
> wanting the denim to be of a heavier weight.
>
> On 3/31/06, Sharon at Collierfam.com <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote:
>> Mari, do you know of the custom fit jeans available from Levis? Sharon
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
>> On Behalf Of Marie Stewart
>> Sent: Friday, March 31, 2006 6:39 AM
>> To: Historical Costume
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Clothes fitting
>>
>>
>> Thank you for that article... very interesting.
>>
>> Now what the retailers are missing is the opportunity to expand, and
>> raise their sales.
>>
>> Imagine...  A large chain adopts the Fitlogic system.   Inside their
>> stores,  they create separate boutiques, or even a small independent
>> entity. One for each body type.  Stock the items that flatter that
>> body type the most in their respective sections.  In larger chains you
>> could even have different stock for a particular body type in
>> different stores.  If a customer  finds something they like in one
>> section, but it is not their body type,  allow them to order (or
>> request from another store) that item in the fit they want.   This
>> wouldn't be anything revolutionary,  major chains already swap
>> clothing around between stores.
>>
>> How many women would love to have a store that they knew the items
>> would be a better fit.  You see it already, women have brand loyalty,
>> if a line provides better fit.
>>
>> Oooooh,  just think about it... stores might actually have to sell
>> more items on style and quality if they took out the fit roulette.
>>
>> Mari  -  still irked that Banana Republic stopped making "the perfect
>> fitting jean" in 1992.
>>
>>> Clothes That Fit the Woman, Not the Store
>>> By MICHAEL BARBARO
>>> Published: March 31, 2006
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] droolworthy victorian
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Sigh, if only I had a horse!  (And had ridden more recently than 16 or 17 
years ago.)  I can shoot and I can sew...

-E House

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Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2006 18:35:55 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Clothes fitting - gotta start somewhere
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Status: RO


Though the article /link is still not available for some reason, this is
something that I have dealt with MANY times in my fashion classes with my
students.

The problem is that many stores have a fit model and makes everything to fit
that one person or dressform. The other problem is that there are economic
considerations. Large sizes cost more to make and more time to sew. So,
stores come up with an "image" that they work with in conjunction with their
fit--- think of Abercrombie and Fitch.

Where many stores or clothing lines start trying to service many sizes, but
when it doesn't fit the image they drop the sizes. For instance, the Limited
does not sell men's pants larger than size 36.

It seems to me that there is an awfully large market for clothes for those
of us who are not "perfect"...

Monica Spence





-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Susan Data-Samtak
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2006 8:57 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Fwd: [h-cost] Clothes fitting - gotta start somewhere


<<
> From: "Marie Stewart" <maricelt@gmail.com>
> Date: March 31, 2006 1:25:19 PM EST
> To: "Susan Data-Samtak" <pasovasz@aol.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Clothes fitting - gotta start somewhere
>
> Great Idea!   Thank you!  Mari
>
> On 3/31/06, Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com> wrote:
>> I only replied to you.  Shall I forward your reply to me, back to the
>> list?
>>
>> We can start with articulate people who know sewing and fit, to get
>> the
>> ball rolling.
>>
>> Susan
>>
>> "Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
>> too fast and you miss all you are traveling for". - "Ride the Dark
>> Trail" by Louis L'Amour
>>
>> On Mar 31, 2006, at 10:06 AM, Marie Stewart wrote:
>>
>>> That's an excellent question...  Let me think about this a bit.
>>>
>>> Right off the top of my head I say Write to them.   You know most of
>>> the big chain department stores,  Macy's, Hechts, Belk's, Ivy's,
>>> Nordstrom's have websites.   Let's write to them.   Letters always
>>> seem to carry more weight, but more people are willing to dash off a
>>> 30 second email.
>>>
>>> Also, let's focus.  If we scatter our efforts we dilute our impact.
>>> Let's choose one or two chains that are densely packed regionally.
>>> That will facilitate women getting to the stores, and the stores
>>> swapping garments.   Also, I would guess focus on the mid-range to
>>> mid-upper range stores.  Especially stores that cater to the
>>> professional woman - Talbot's perhaps,  or a similar chain.  Stores
>>> catering to the lower income people might not feel that their
>>> clientel
>>> want or value fit as much.
>>>
>>> Also,  let's get more articles about this system - out there.
>>> Magazines, web sites, newspaper articles.   Letters to the editors.
>>> The more people who know, the more women who value fit will be
>>> interested in seeing this system implemented.
>>>
>>> Emphasize the time saving strategy of this way of shopping, not just
>>> the better fit.  Personal note... If I knew I could pick up 3 pairs
>>> of
>>> pants that I liked the look of and that they would fit,  and not have
>>> to try all three pairs on... you have just save me 10-15 minutes in
>>> the dressing room.  I have more time to shop.
>>>
>>> Stores follow the money,  and the primary way the consumer makes an
>>> impact is by withholding the money.
>>>
>>> Now that we know this system is out there... have people ask for it.
>>> Word of mouth.   Every time they walk into a store.   "Where are the
>>> FitLogic clothes?"...  "Do you carry FitLogic clothes?"
>>>
>>> Educate the sales people,  who will tell their managers, who will
>>> tell
>>> their supeervisors, who will talk to the director....    and up and
>>> so
>>> on.
>>>
>>> That's off the top of my head.  Other ideas?
>>>
>>> On 3/31/06, Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com> wrote:
>>>> So, Marie, how do we tell THEM how we feel?
>>>>
>>>> Susan
>>>>
>>>> "Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
>>>> too fast and you miss all you are traveling for". - "Ride the Dark
>>>> Trail" by Louis L'Amour
>>>>
>>>> On Mar 31, 2006, at 9:39 AM, Marie Stewart wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Thank you for that article... very interesting.
>>>>>
>>>>> Now what the retailers are missing is the opportunity to expand,
>>>>> and
>>>>> raise their sales.
>>>>>
>>>>> Imagine...  A large chain adopts the Fitlogic system.   Inside
>>>>> their
>>>>> stores,  they create separate boutiques, or even a small
>>>>> independent
>>>>> entity.  One for each body type.  Stock the items that flatter that
>>>>> body type the most in their respective sections.  In larger chains
>>>>> you
>>>>> could even have different stock for a particular body type in
>>>>> different stores.  If a customer  finds something they like in one
>>>>> section, but it is not their body type,  allow them to order (or
>>>>> request from another store) that item in the fit they want.   This
>>>>> wouldn't be anything revolutionary,  major chains already swap
>>>>> clothing around between stores.
>>>>>
>>>>> How many women would love to have a store that they knew the items
>>>>> would be a better fit.  You see it already, women have brand
>>>>> loyalty,
>>>>> if a line provides better fit.
>>>>>
>>>>> Oooooh,  just think about it... stores might actually have to sell
>>>>> more items on style and quality if they took out the fit roulette.
>>>>>
>>>>> Mari  -  still irked that Banana Republic stopped making "the
>>>>> perfect
>>>>> fitting jean" in 1992.
>>>>>
>>>>>> Clothes That Fit the Woman, Not the Store
>>>>>> By MICHAEL BARBARO
>>>>>> Published: March 31, 2006
>>>>>
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> h-costume mailing list
>>>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>> >>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Apr  1 18:46:09 2006
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From: "Glenda Robinson" <glendarob@exemail.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <NJEJJAKCDDIJCJLBNKFIAEKBCPAA.monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Clothes fitting - gotta start somewhere
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You mean that somewhere in the world there's someone that might sell size 30 
pants as standard? Both my husband and older son (and my younger son's 
heading that way) are this size, and they mostly have to end up in 32s with 
a belt (or in my 16yo's case, size 32 around his hips with his underpants 
showing, but that style can't be worn forever!) There are about one pair of 
size 30s here in a blue moon.

We're heading off to the UK for a month in a week or so, I'm hoping they 
have some there. I've already got to go shopping for warm women's clothing 
(and jeans with a decent range of leg lengths) - Our midwinter averages are 
still 3-4 celcius above the UK Spring averages, and the local shops just 
don't have anything useful at all in their autumn collections.

Glenda.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] droolworthy victorian
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Status: RO

You don't need a horse.

This is Action Shooting, not Mounted Shooting.Go for it!

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Apr 1, 2006, at 11:08 AM, E House wrote:

> Sigh, if only I had a horse!  (And had ridden more recently than 16 or 
> 17 years ago.)  I can shoot and I can sew...
>
> -E House
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: purplkat@optonline.net
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Clothes fitting - gotta start somewhere
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I quite agree - I am a very strange shaped person, the upper half of my body can fit in a boys 18-20 fairly well, the lower half needs a ladies 10 short rise 32" inseam (or a Petite sz 10 with extra leg length). 
I need boy's shirts because they have 4 extra inches in the torso, 3 extra inches across the shoulders, and 2" longer sleeve length. 

The distance from my hip bone to my natural waist is only 3" - most comercially made jeans have a 5-6" distance.

And I won't tell you about my scooped back, protrouding tummy, and extra long torso.
BTW I am a 40 yr old 5' 6" woman!!! 

Once I joined the SCA I found out that I have the skills to create simple dresses made to *MY* measurements. Too bad I can't find anything off-the-rack to fit me.... <sigh>

If anyone can tell me where to find cheap jeans for a men's 48x30 I would apopreciate it.

Katheryne 

From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
The problem is that many stores have a fit model and makes everything to fit
that one person or dressform. 
Where many stores or clothing lines start trying to service many sizes, but
when it doesn't fit the image they drop the sizes. For instance, the Limited
does not sell men's pants larger than size 36.

It seems to me that there is an awfully large market for clothes for those
of us who are not "perfect"...

Monica Spence
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Clothes fitting - gotta start somewhere
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Status: RO

An observation that I thought interesting-  We live in NJ.  It is easy 
to find inseam lengths for men that are 36 inches.  VERY difficult to 
find 28 or 30 inch inseams.  Years ago, we took a vacation to Hawaii.  
We stopped by the Alamoana Mall's Sears store.  Lo and behold- LOTS of 
28 inseam men's pants!  My husband says it's time to go back!  He needs 
more 28 inseam pants.

We think that many of the Oriental men are short, so Sears stocks 
inseams that they can actually SELL to their clients.  WHat do you 
think?

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Apr 1, 2006, at 6:45 PM, Glenda Robinson wrote:

> You mean that somewhere in the world there's someone that might sell 
> size 30 pants as standard? Both my husband and older son (and my 
> younger son's heading that way) are this size, and they mostly have to 
> end up in 32s with a belt (or in my 16yo's case, size 32 around his 
> hips with his underpants showing, but that style can't be worn 
> forever!) There are about one pair of size 30s here in a blue moon.
>
> We're heading off to the UK for a month in a week or so, I'm hoping 
> they have some there. I've already got to go shopping for warm women's 
> clothing (and jeans with a decent range of leg lengths) - Our 
> midwinter averages are still 3-4 celcius above the UK Spring averages, 
> and the local shops just don't have anything useful at all in their 
> autumn collections.
>
> Glenda.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2006 16:02:03 +1000
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Subject: [h-cost] GFD related question - tracing final pieces onto paper
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Hi everyone,
I'm helping a friend to fit an early 16th century Venetian bodice (what's 
often referred to as the 'Italian ren' style) and I want it to support her 
bust without a bra so I'm basically working from Robin's worksheets to get 
an idea of how to do that (though it's obviously somewhat different to suit 
the different style of bodice). My question is about the point after the 
lining is fitted and you've now got a shape you can trace to cut a second 
layer, or even a new bodice. If you're tracing that shape onto a piece of 
paper (so you don't have to go through the fitting process again next time) 
do you have to wait a while for the fabric to shrink back into it's normal 
cold shape or can you trace the pieces as soon as you take it off? I also 
thought that maybe you need to take it a step further and put it through the 
wash (after finishing the edges of course) to get it back to it's normal 
size.
I've made this style of bodice for myself but I forgot to trace my final 
pieces onto a paper pattern to re-use them later so this wasn't an issue.
thanks
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Clothes fitting - gotta start somewhere
Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2006 22:36:00 -0800
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Phone Sears and ask them to send shorter jeans to your local store.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Susan Data-Samtak
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2006 6:45 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Clothes fitting - gotta start somewhere


An observation that I thought interesting-  We live in NJ.  It is easy 
to find inseam lengths for men that are 36 inches.  VERY difficult to 
find 28 or 30 inch inseams.  Years ago, we took a vacation to Hawaii.  
We stopped by the Alamoana Mall's Sears store.  Lo and behold- LOTS of 
28 inseam men's pants!  My husband says it's time to go back!  He needs 
more 28 inseam pants.

We think that many of the Oriental men are short, so Sears stocks 
inseams that they can actually SELL to their clients.  WHat do you 
think?

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel too
fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark Trail" by
Louis L'Amour

On Apr 1, 2006, at 6:45 PM, Glenda Robinson wrote:

> You mean that somewhere in the world there's someone that might sell
> size 30 pants as standard? Both my husband and older son (and my 
> younger son's heading that way) are this size, and they mostly have to 
> end up in 32s with a belt (or in my 16yo's case, size 32 around his 
> hips with his underpants showing, but that style can't be worn 
> forever!) There are about one pair of size 30s here in a blue moon.
>
> We're heading off to the UK for a month in a week or so, I'm hoping
> they have some there. I've already got to go shopping for warm women's 
> clothing (and jeans with a decent range of leg lengths) - Our 
> midwinter averages are still 3-4 celcius above the UK Spring averages, 
> and the local shops just don't have anything useful at all in their 
> autumn collections.
>
> Glenda.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] GFD related question - tracing final pieces onto paper
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On Sun, 2 Apr 2006, Elizabeth Walpole wrote:

> ... My question is about the point after the lining is fitted and
> you've now got a shape you can trace to cut a second layer, or even a
> new bodice. If you're tracing that shape onto a piece of paper (so you
> don't have to go through the fitting process again next time)  do you
> have to wait a while for the fabric to shrink back into it's normal
> cold shape or can you trace the pieces as soon as you take it off?

I can't help you there, as I never transfer to paper. I keep the original
linen pieces. When I use them as a template, I iron them out and
straighten out the grain lines, and match them to the grain lines on the
new fabric.

I think I generally distrust the ability of paper to capture the nuances
of what fabric does; if you're off a little bit when you trace (because of
the fabric being a bit warped, stretched whatever) that's what gets
preserved on the paper, and you lose the information of grain lines.

I scribble all over my templates with a sharpie, labeling pieces, marking
waist and hip, etc.

--Robin

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10604020108470.11617-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] GFD related question - tracing final pieces onto paper
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<snip>
> I can't help you there, as I never transfer to paper. I keep the original
> linen pieces. When I use them as a template, I iron them out and
> straighten out the grain lines, and match them to the grain lines on the
> new fabric.
>
<snip> --Robin

Gee, that was fast.
But if you're using the pieces that you've fitted as the lining of your 
final dress then you've just lost your pattern and you've got to start the 
fitting process again from scratch next time you want to recreate that 
dress.
Re-doing it from scratch makes sense from a medieval point of view when 
you've got a household/neighbourhood full of women who all know how to sew 
and how to do this sort of fitting (especially given the cost of paper). But 
in a modern re-enactor's world where it's often hard to find somebody who 
knows how to sew & is willing to try this unfamiliar technique it makes 
sense to have something that is almost right and requires only the sort of 
minor fitting that you can get a non-sewer or a modern only sewer to do for 
you while you give them instructions.
Or are you suggesting that you keep the original pieces permanently instead 
of using them as a lining?
I'll pass on your ideas on ironing the pieces to straighten out the grain 
lines.
thanks
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Clothes fitting - gotta start somewhere
Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2006 09:04:44 -0400
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Thanks.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Apr 2, 2006, at 1:36 AM, Sharon at Collierfam.com wrote:

> Phone Sears and ask them to send shorter jeans to your local store.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] 
> On
> Behalf Of Susan Data-Samtak
> Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2006 6:45 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Clothes fitting - gotta start somewhere
>
>
> An observation that I thought interesting-  We live in NJ.  It is easy
> to find inseam lengths for men that are 36 inches.  VERY difficult to
> find 28 or 30 inch inseams.  Years ago, we took a vacation to Hawaii.
> We stopped by the Alamoana Mall's Sears store.  Lo and behold- LOTS of
> 28 inseam men's pants!  My husband says it's time to go back!  He needs
> more 28 inseam pants.
>
> We think that many of the Oriental men are short, so Sears stocks
> inseams that they can actually SELL to their clients.  WHat do you
> think?
>
> Susan
>
> "Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel 
> too
> fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark Trail" 
> by
> Louis L'Amour
>
> On Apr 1, 2006, at 6:45 PM, Glenda Robinson wrote:
>
>> You mean that somewhere in the world there's someone that might sell
>> size 30 pants as standard? Both my husband and older son (and my
>> younger son's heading that way) are this size, and they mostly have to
>> end up in 32s with a belt (or in my 16yo's case, size 32 around his
>> hips with his underpants showing, but that style can't be worn
>> forever!) There are about one pair of size 30s here in a blue moon.
>>
>> We're heading off to the UK for a month in a week or so, I'm hoping
>> they have some there. I've already got to go shopping for warm women's
>> clothing (and jeans with a decent range of leg lengths) - Our
>> midwinter averages are still 3-4 celcius above the UK Spring averages,
>> and the local shops just don't have anything useful at all in their
>> autumn collections.
>>
>> Glenda.
>>
>>
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Welcome back, Robin!  Thanks again for coming to our neck of the woods
and presenting a fascinating and inspiring lecture series. :-)

One of the ladies in my music group is now working on a Gothic fitted
dress for herself and a friend, and hopes to outfit all of us in Musica
Draconis, our local women's consort. I'm tickled to pieces to know how to
finally correctly construct a sideless surcoat! :D

Even for a non-costumer like myself, this series is great! It's wonderful
to gain not only construction information but contextual insights into
clothing. There was a lot of stuff which never quite made sense before
and does now. You're an excellent researcher and presenter--keep up the
good work! :-)

Arlys
in Dragon's Mist


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Subject: [h-cost] regency dress closures
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An early 19th c. simple day dress just finished on ebay which shows
the bodice lining and the overlayer with drawstring waist, might shed
some light on dress closures.  No visible hooks or anything.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=8400391523&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT

Katy

--
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Susan Data-Samtak wrote:


> 
> We think that many of the Oriental men are short, so Sears stocks 
> inseams that they can actually SELL to their clients.  WHat do you think?
> 

I think there are lots of size 28 people where you live and not in 
Hawaii. Thus, that size is always sold out. At least that's how it works 
when I need pants. We should definitely go to Hawaii to confirm this 
theory though. :)


Dawn



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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] GFD related question - tracing final pieces onto paper
Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2006 08:56:15 -0600
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For my ItalianRen bodices, I just made them extra snug, and they held me up
just fine (and I'm a BIG girl, that way).  I've never used a fragile fabric,
though (usually cotton or linen, as they were intended for summer/camping
use), and always did a good, sturdy interlining, often with a heavy-weight
linen.  On my linen gowns, I did lace into them, wait for the fabric to warm
up, and then pull them snug, but that was about it....
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 12:02 AM
Subject: [h-cost] GFD related question - tracing final pieces onto paper


> Hi everyone,
> I'm helping a friend to fit an early 16th century Venetian bodice (what's
> often referred to as the 'Italian ren' style) and I want it to support her
> bust without a bra so I'm basically working from Robin's worksheets to get
> an idea of how to do that (though it's obviously somewhat different to
suit
> the different style of bodice). My question is about the point after the
> lining is fitted and you've now got a shape you can trace to cut a second
> layer, or even a new bodice. If you're tracing that shape onto a piece of
> paper (so you don't have to go through the fitting process again next
time)
> do you have to wait a while for the fabric to shrink back into it's normal
> cold shape or can you trace the pieces as soon as you take it off? I also
> thought that maybe you need to take it a step further and put it through
the
> wash (after finishing the edges of course) to get it back to it's normal
> size.
> I've made this style of bodice for myself but I forgot to trace my final
> pieces onto a paper pattern to re-use them later so this wasn't an issue.
> thanks
> Elizabeth


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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] regency dress closures
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Thanks, Katy,

That is a neat dress.

Ann in CT
--- Katy Bishop <katybishop64@gmail.com> wrote:

> An early 19th c. simple day dress just finished on
> ebay which shows the bodice lining and the overlayer
> with drawstring waist, might shed some light on
dress
> closures.  No visible hooks or anything.
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=8400391523&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT
> 
> Katy


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] GFD related question - tracing final pieces onto paper
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That's what I did with my "shell" pieces (made from heavy-weight linen) from
a workshop Robin held a few years back....Sort of a compromise between
doing-it-from-scratch and having an actual pattern.  Got the notes scribbled
on it, etc.  Unfortunately, I put it "somewhere safe" when I moved, and now
it's gone AWOL....grrrrrr.....
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 1:33 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] GFD related question - tracing final pieces onto paper


> <snip>
> Or are you suggesting that you keep the original pieces permanently
instead
> of using them as a lining?
> I'll pass on your ideas on ironing the pieces to straighten out the grain
> lines.
> thanks
> Elizabeth


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Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2006 12:19:32 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] GFD related question - tracing final pieces onto paper
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I wrote:
> > I can't help you there, as I never transfer to paper. I keep the original
> > linen pieces. When I use them as a template, I iron them out and
> > straighten out the grain lines, and match them to the grain lines on the
> > new fabric.

Elizabeth replied:

> But if you're using the pieces that you've fitted as the lining of
> your final dress then you've just lost your pattern and you've got to
> start the fitting process again from scratch next time you want to
> recreate that dress.

If I intend to make only one dress for a person, I cut and fit the lining,
and it goes into the dress, and that's that.

If I intend to make more than one dress, I fit a linen template using the
same sort of fabric as the lining. I fit with panels that go about to
mid-thigh (long enough to fit all the necessary bits, and to mark the
angle of flare on the pieces for purposes of cutting out full-length ones
later). I use these then as a guide to cutting a full-length lining, which
I can then assemble and tweak, and in turn use that to cut the outer
fabric. Note that the template is not a pattern -- it's a starting point,
and you have to check (and if necessary adjust)  the fit on everything you
cut based on it.

You can use a full dress as a starting point as well, though it's not as
convenient. 

> Re-doing it from scratch makes sense from a medieval point of view
> when you've got a household/neighbourhood full of women who all know
> how to sew and how to do this sort of fitting (especially given the
> cost of paper). But in a modern re-enactor's world where it's often
> hard to find somebody who knows how to sew & is willing to try this
> unfamiliar technique it makes sense to have something that is almost
> right and requires only the sort of minor fitting that you can get a
> non-sewer or a modern only sewer to do for you while you give them
> instructions.

Yes, this is one of many differences between our situation and that of the
medieval woman. If this was simply "the way clothes were made," it would
have been a standard approach that everyone who sewed had experience with.
A modern re-enactor learns many techniques for different styles/periods --
but the medieval person lived in one place and time and would learn only
the methods that were common at that place and time. When you do it a lot,
you get really quite good at it. When I'm not teaching, I can do a fitting
pretty quickly, because I can make a lot of the fitting decisions by sight
and feel, skipping some of the preliminary steps that I have to teach to
someone who is not so experienced. (Think of the stories of Korean or
Vietnamese tailors who can look at you when you walk in the shop, and then
produce a suit that fits you a week later.)

Consider also: Most medieval women would not have had more than one fitted
gown, so there would not be the issue of needing to reproduce the dress
many times. For a second dress or a replacement, you would use your old
one as your model. If you had changed size or shape, you could probably
guess at the adjustment based on what you had originally. Or (say in the
case of a growing girl who's just developed a new figure) you could try on
dresses belonging to sisters, cousins, or friends till you found one close
to your size, and adjust that as necessary.

In other words, the use of the template is a modern solution to a modern
problem of "I want lots of these dresses."  It preserves most of the
benefits of on-the-body fitting without turning it into a modern
paper-pattern approach.

--Robin


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On Sun, 2 Apr 2006, Cynthia J Ley wrote:

> Welcome back, Robin!  Thanks again for coming to our neck of the woods
> and presenting a fascinating and inspiring lecture series. :-)

I have to say the Portland area produced an incredible audience. There was
a lot of energy and excitement in that room, and I had a blast :-)

> Even for a non-costumer like myself...

You've been on h-cost so long, it astonished me when you told me you don't
sew.

> this series is great! It's wonderful to gain not only construction
> information but contextual insights into clothing. There was a lot of
> stuff which never quite made sense before and does now. You're an
> excellent researcher and presenter--keep up the good work! :-)

<blush>

It should be obvious by now that my lectures are really all just "research
methods" classes in disguise. Talking about sewing the clothing is a very
minor part of them -- it's all about looking at art, documents, artifacts,
etc. to determine social context, aesthetic sensibility, and development
of a style. The mechanics are only one small part of that understanding.

--Robin


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In a message dated 3/31/2006 1:17:46 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
pasovasz@aol.com writes:

My  husband can 
shoot off his back.
***********************************



If he does that, where will you put the saddle???
 
 
Badda bing!
 
 
sorry....I couldn't resist.
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Hi Robin and all,

The most recent bits about creating linen "template" pieces is extremely 
helpful.  I am the lady Arlys referred to  (digest 310, message 11) who 
is making all those GFDs.....

I recently wrote you and Tasha personally with some fit questions which 
your most recent post here has answered beautifully.  Thank you!   And 
may I echo Arlys's remarks regarding your lecture last weekend!  It was 
truly inspiring!  (Enough to inspire 7 GFDs on assorted body shapes and 
sizes- ;-) )  

The only thing I still need some advice on is the shape of the front and 
rear gores.  There seems to be some issues with bias to bias seams and 
the possibility of these stretching.

If anyone has any thoughts on this matter, I would  be grateful to hear 
them BEFORE I get too far on all 7 of these GFDs.  Obviously, each dress 
will  have its own unique shape of gores, panels, etc., but I am curious 
as to whether the center front and rear gores are symmetrical or "right 
angle" shaped.

Thanks!

Laurie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] re:  GFD fittings, etc.
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On Sun, 2 Apr 2006, Lorraine Herr wrote:

> I recently wrote you and Tasha personally with some fit questions
> which your most recent post here has answered beautifully ...

Sorry I haven't caught up on all my personal e-mail -- I'm way snowed
under. Quick notes to the list are easy to knock off, but your gores
question required a longer answer, so I hadn't gotten to it yet.

But since you have asked again on the list, I'll answer on the list,
picking up parts of your earlier message so I get it all.

> The only thing I still need some advice on is the shape of the front
> and rear gores.  There seems to be some issues with bias to bias seams
> and the possibility of these stretching.

OK. First off, it seems that a lot of people have gotten the idea that
bias should ideally be placed next to straight grain. Some of this has no
doubt come from some comments made in various costume books about the
Greenland gowns, for example in the Museum of London book, which refers to
"some seams on the straight grain of the fabric and others on a partial
bias." It adds, "The justaposition of bias and straight edges would give
an elegant movement to the garment in wear." 

There are several problems with using this as the basis of a "bias to
straight" rule. To begin with, it's not clear from the statement that the
author means bias meets straight on a single seam -- it sounds more like
the author is saying some seams are straight/straight and some are on a
slight slant ("partial bias") -- which makes sense given that the
narrowness of the panels in this dress mean that the slant is only about
15 degrees -- nowhere near true "bias." However, it is true that at least
some of the seams in this dress are slant-to-stright, for the simple
mathematical fact that of the 32 edges that meet in the 16 seams, 20 are
on the straight and 12 are on a slant. So not all of the seams can be
evenly matched. This does not mean, however, that it's desirable to mix
edges when you don't have to. The third problem, of course, is that this
is a dress from Greenland, and anyone who's heard me talk about this knows
that it doesn't have a whole lot of relevance for the construction of the
GFD.

So, let's drop the unsupported assumption that "medieval people preferred
to put bias against grain." As far as I'm concerned, there's ABSOLUTELY
NOTHING WRONG with putting bias to bias in the 14th and 15th centuries.
(This probably changed by the 16th c. and different needs involved in
skirt construction.) In fact I prefer to match grain angles, because I
want the two sides of the seam to drape equally. When you put slant
against straight, you run the risk of the slanted side sagging against the
seam -- very unattractive. And in the GFD, you can choose to place those
stretchable seams where you want the dress to mold over curves -- say,
over the sides of the waist and hips. Putting a straight grain there
prevents the fabric from stretching and adapting -- remember what I said
in the lecture about using stretch as a tool and not trying to prevent it.

Sure, some of the hem will sag. So let the dress hang overnight and try it
on, and mark the hem. And when you do, on your first pass, mark the saggy
bits a little long. Then cut it off and check it, and trim more only if
you need. Sometimes the weight of the fabric before the hem is cut
stretches the length out a bit, and you don't want it to spring back too
far once you've cut off the excess.

> I am curious as to whether the center front and rear gores are
> symmetrical or "right angle" shaped.

Remember that you want two gores in the center front, and two in the
center back.  Add the gore to the panel, and then treat the resulting
piece as one large flared panel, as though the seam that attaches
gore-to-panel is now invisible. This leaves a single long seam down the
center front; you'll be putting eyelets down that front center, and some
of those eyelets will fall in the gore portion.

Your side gores can be singles or pairs. If you happen to create your
gores by folding a piece vertically and cutting a single
diagonal, you'll get one double-size isoceles triangle that's on the fold,
and two right triangles that are the remaining pieces. You can use the
right triangles as the center front gores and the isoceles triangle as a
side gore. Then repeat to create the two back gores and the larger single
gore for the other side.

Going back to your earlier note to me for anything I've missed so far (I'm
hoping you won't mind if I repeat this in public even though it came in a
private e-mail!):

> Re:  the gores.  Looking at some of the line drawings on some of the web 
> sites, it looks as if the body pattern pieces flare out at the side 
> seams to begin to produce the beautiful flared skirt.  So,
>     * Is there a gore that is INSET into that side seam in addition to
>       the flared out front and back panels?

In my case, typically the gore is part of what creates that flared piece.
You can also flare the body piece if you like, but I like to put the
straight grain of the gore against the straight of the body panel, in
essence extending the fabric and maintaining the grain structure across
the seam. But I've done it lots of ways. In any case, the flare typically
starts in the body panel and shoots right off the edge of that panel,
which is where the gore takes over to supply more width to the piece.

And I think I've answered the rest of your questions already.

Hope this helps,

Robin

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> So, let's drop the unsupported assumption that "medieval people preferred
> to put bias against grain." As far as I'm concerned, there's ABSOLUTELY
> NOTHING WRONG with putting bias to bias in the 14th and 15th centuries.

Wasn't the golden gown made from four shaped pieces? The side seams at least
were cut on a slope. While it too is from rather far north in Europe it does
show there was at least one gown that was cut with the sides on angles.
Regardless of how fitted it was, there will still be the same stretching on
those skirt seams.

> (This probably changed by the 16th c. and different needs involved in
> skirt construction.)

While there are other different needs for tairloring in general, none of the
skirts in PoF or the Alcega book bother about straight to bias. The only
instances where this happens seems to be in shirt construction and the
farthingale pattern of Alcega. In the shirt patterns I can see why it's
helpful. Difficult to explain though;) Basically helpful in cutting without
waste and getting an even hem.

What you do see is a lot of piecing straight to straight to extend pieces
(and then smaller pieces cut from whatever fabric is there) but the skirt
shapes are generally cut on a slant at the sides so you get slant to slant
in the side seams. Straight to straight usually in the back seams (or the
back is cut on the fold etc.)

I've never had a problem with the stretching of those seams. If I have a
train it's often not noticeable if the seams stretch a bit and if I've got a
skirt that clears the ground then I will leave it to hang  for a while and
clip it to shape after. Usually I have fabrics that are woven firmly enough
so as not to worry.

Later 19thC skirts through often go straight to slant. I suspect this has a
lot to do with aesthetic appeal as you can see it looks neater when you have
stripes;) There is a perfect example of it in PoF 2 of the early 1870s.

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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Can anyone tell me what kind of lace this is?

www.reddawn.net/temp/lace.jpg


I looked in my book on the history of lace, but all the pictures started 
to look alike to me. :(



Dawn


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	<002f01c656b7$493f58d0$0301010a@michaela>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re:  GFD fittings, etc.
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 Actually, by putting bias to straight in the mid 19thC they created a hoop 
that would balance itself, and a skirt that would flow away from the legs 
when walking.  Pretty cool.

A lot of our modern clothing construction method were developed in the 
19thC. Some seriously inovative cutting to upholster the body.

Kelly

> Later 19thC skirts through often go straight to slant. I suspect this has 
> a
> lot to do with aesthetic appeal as you can see it looks neater when you 
> have
> stripes;) There is a perfect example of it in PoF 2 of the early 1870s.
>
> michaela de bruce
> http://glittersweet.com
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From: "Onaree Berard" <msberard@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: lace question
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Not enough detail to know for sure.

Did you scan this?

If so could you scan a very small section at a high res (like 200-250)
so that we could see the path the the thread(s) take.

I could tell if I know how the threads are moving.

Onaree

On 4/2/06, Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
> Can anyone tell me what kind of lace this is?
>
> www.reddawn.net/temp/lace.jpg
>
>
> I looked in my book on the history of lace, but all the pictures started
> to look alike to me. :(
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] re:  GFD fittings, etc.
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Please excuse my ignorance, but what do you mean "creates a hoop"? How?
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of kelly grant
Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 6:06 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: GFD fittings, etc.


 Actually, by putting bias to straight in the mid 19thC they created a hoop 
that would balance itself, and a skirt that would flow away from the legs 
when walking.  Pretty cool.

A lot of our modern clothing construction method were developed in the 
19thC. Some seriously inovative cutting to upholster the body.

Kelly

> Later 19thC skirts through often go straight to slant. I suspect this 
> has
> a
> lot to do with aesthetic appeal as you can see it looks neater when you 
> have
> stripes;) There is a perfect example of it in PoF 2 of the early 1870s.
>
> michaela de bruce
> http://glittersweet.com
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Onaree Berard wrote:

> Not enough detail to know for sure.
> 
> Did you scan this?
> 
> If so could you scan a very small section at a high res (like 200-250)
> so that we could see the path the the thread(s) take.
> 
> I could tell if I know how the threads are moving.
> 

It's a photo.

There's a 1600x1200 (450k) image at www.reddawn.net/temp/biglace.jpg



Dawn




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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: lace question
Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2006 22:36:21 -0500
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Possibly Milanese
http://www.gulliver-pp.com/pages/milanese-pix.htm
or
Irish crochet
http://www.irishlacemuseum.com/Museum/Crochetpg.html
http://lacismuseum.org/exhibit/Irish%20Crochet%20Lace.pdf
http://www.mendes.co.uk/19thc.lace.html#IRISH%20%20CROCHET

De

-----Original Message-----
On 4/2/06, Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
> Can anyone tell me what kind of lace this is?
>
> www.reddawn.net/temp/lace.jpg
>
>
> I looked in my book on the history of lace, but all the pictures started
> to look alike to me. :(
>
>
>
> Dawn


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From: "Onaree Berard" <msberard@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: lace question
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Not irish crochet, looks like some form crochet or possibly bobbin
lace. The type of ground and tallys are commonly seen in bobbin lace,
but crochet has been used to copy every type of lace known so that
wouldn't rule out crochet.

I'm favouring crochet as it looks like round motifs joined together,
and the tally's (diamond shaped leaves) don't look woven as you would
see in bobbin lace. They look more like they were done in two rounds.

But the 'starburst' centres, for lack of a better term, look strange
and I can't figure out how they were done.

Sorry I couldn't be more help. Usually I can at least figure out what
type of technique.

Onaree


On 4/2/06, otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
> Possibly Milanese
> http://www.gulliver-pp.com/pages/milanese-pix.htm
> or
> Irish crochet
> http://www.irishlacemuseum.com/Museum/Crochetpg.html
> http://lacismuseum.org/exhibit/Irish%20Crochet%20Lace.pdf
> http://www.mendes.co.uk/19thc.lace.html#IRISH%20%20CROCHET
>
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> On 4/2/06, Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
> > Can anyone tell me what kind of lace this is?
> >
> > www.reddawn.net/temp/lace.jpg
> >
> >
> > I looked in my book on the history of lace, but all the pictures started
> > to look alike to me. :(
> >
> >
> >
> > Dawn
--
Proud List Mom of Irish_Crochet_Lovers
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Irish_Crochet_Lovers/

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> You've been on h-cost so long, it astonished me when you told me you 
> don't sew.

I made the mistake of being a female and a Laurel (music stuff). Getting
constantly bombarded with costuming questions made me determined to learn
as much about it as possible without sewing which I don't have time
for--see aforementioned music stuff. ;)

The historian and researcher in me wants to know and understand both
conceptual and practical approaches. I've learned a lot from a number of
Ithra classes and tons of good info from this list. :-)

> It should be obvious by now that my lectures are really all just 
> "research
> methods" classes in disguise. Talking about sewing the clothing is a 
> very
> minor part of them -- it's all about looking at art, documents, 
> artifacts,
> etc. to determine social context, aesthetic sensibility, and 
> development
> of a style. The mechanics are only one small part of that 
> understanding.

You're singing my song, Sister! :-)

Arlys
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From: "kelly grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Hoops, was GFD fittings, etc.
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Status: RO

The Spanish farthingale is similar in that it balances, but uses a series of 
rectangles that you adjust to the wearer.  In the 19thC, the full fabric 
crinolines were often drafted with shaped pieces. By putting the piece with 
more bias to the one with less, the straighter piece pulls the hoop 
backwards, balancing it.

Did I make better sense this time? There are days when language escapes me!
Kelly

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 11:19 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] re: GFD fittings, etc.


> Please excuse my ignorance, but what do you mean "creates a hoop"? How?
> Sharon
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of kelly grant
> Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 6:06 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: GFD fittings, etc.
>
>
> Actually, by putting bias to straight in the mid 19thC they created a hoop
> that would balance itself, and a skirt that would flow away from the legs
> when walking.  Pretty cool.
>
> A lot of our modern clothing construction method were developed in the
> 19thC. Some seriously inovative cutting to upholster the body.
>
> Kelly
>
>> Later 19thC skirts through often go straight to slant. I suspect this
>> has
>> a
>> lot to do with aesthetic appeal as you can see it looks neater when you
>> have
>> stripes;) There is a perfect example of it in PoF 2 of the early 1870s.
>>
>> michaela de bruce
>> http://glittersweet.com
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Turcopoliers-what they wore
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Hi all, I have been asked to do some research on what Turcopoliers wore 
in the 11th and 12th centuries.  I have gone through Worldcat, and of 
course nothing comes up about them directly.  I am sure I will have to 
start in some general arms/armour book and was wondering if anyone on 
the list could point me to a good one.

Turcopoliers were supposedly a mixed breed Greek/Turk or Saracen who 
sometimes fought for the crusaders.  When I looke in the OED to find out 
what they were, I was surprised to find that the term only went back as 
far as the 15th century...not sure how that could be, but.  Here is the 
the link to that.

http://tinyurl.com/gxjls

Thanks for any pointers!

Sg*
*
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] GFD related question - tracing final pieces onto paper
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 03, 2006 12:56 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] GFD related question - tracing final pieces onto paper


> For my ItalianRen bodices, I just made them extra snug, and they held me 
> up
> just fine (and I'm a BIG girl, that way).  I've never used a fragile 
> fabric,
> though (usually cotton or linen, as they were intended for summer/camping
> use), and always did a good, sturdy interlining, often with a heavy-weight
> linen.  On my linen gowns, I did lace into them, wait for the fabric to 
> warm
> up, and then pull them snug, but that was about it....
> --Sue

Well that's roughly what we're doing tomorrow night (at our regular meeting) 
I'm starting from a commercial pattern cutting an inch outside the lines and 
then fitting it. But I thought that as I'm doing this on somebody else I 
might try out Robin's techniques given that they work so well in a similar 
situation (i.e. making an unboned dress that supports the bust) and that 
this style evolved out of the style Robin is recreating. I'm also interested 
in maybe one day making a GFD for myself so if I can experiment with the 
style that my friend wants I'm happy to get the experience so I can find out 
how Robin's techniques work. In reality making your bodices 'extra snug' is 
not that dissimilar to Robin's basic concept, stopping your boobs from 
falling down by making the bodice tight below the bust, and that's roughly 
what I'm trying to achieve at this fitting session.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] lace question
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It looks like a rayon chemical lace, where the embroidery is done on
cloth then the cloth is eaten away by chemicals leaving the
embroidered lace pattern.  Chemical lace techniques achieved very good
imitations of handmade lace styles in the 19th century.

I can't place what type of lace this style is trying to replicate, if
any, but the feel is late 19th early 20th century to me, with a
crochet or tatted feel.

One of my favorite lace identification books is Guide to lace and
Linens by Elizabeth M. Kurella, isbn 0-930625-89-7 (1989).  It is very
well organized, with lots of pictures, and has sections on stitches,
parts of lace and names.  And also anything by Pat Earnshaw.

Katy

On 4/2/06, Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
> Can anyone tell me what kind of lace this is?
>
> www.reddawn.net/temp/lace.jpg
>
>
> I looked in my book on the history of lace, but all the pictures started
> to look alike to me. :(
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


--
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: lace question
Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 08:50:39 -0400
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To me it looks like very elaborate bobbin lace. Those "starburst" 
centers are called, in my books, "spiders." I have a lace insert saved 
from one of my aunt's blouses that is this complex. I admit the leaves 
look denser than bobbin-lace leaves I've seen generally, but the work 
itself is very dense and the thread seems to lend itself to a dense 
look.

As for period, I wouldn't hazard a guess.

Bjarne would be the best authority on this question, I think.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
gypsy scholar and amateur costumer

On Apr 2, 2006, at 11:54 PM, Onaree Berard wrote:

> Not irish crochet, looks like some form crochet or possibly bobbin
> lace. The type of ground and tallys are commonly seen in bobbin lace,
> but crochet has been used to copy every type of lace known so that
> wouldn't rule out crochet.
>
> I'm favouring crochet as it looks like round motifs joined together,
> and the tally's (diamond shaped leaves) don't look woven as you would
> see in bobbin lace. They look more like they were done in two rounds.
>
> But the 'starburst' centres, for lack of a better term, look strange
> and I can't figure out how they were done.
>
> Sorry I couldn't be more help. Usually I can at least figure out what
> type of technique.
>
> Onaree
>
>
> On 4/2/06, otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
>> Possibly Milanese
>> http://www.gulliver-pp.com/pages/milanese-pix.htm
>> or
>> Irish crochet
>> http://www.irishlacemuseum.com/Museum/Crochetpg.html
>> http://lacismuseum.org/exhibit/Irish%20Crochet%20Lace.pdf
>> http://www.mendes.co.uk/19thc.lace.html#IRISH%20%20CROCHET
>>
>> De
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> On 4/2/06, Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
>>> Can anyone tell me what kind of lace this is?
>>>
>>> www.reddawn.net/temp/lace.jpg
>>>
>>>
>>> I looked in my book on the history of lace, but all the pictures 
>>> started
>>> to look alike to me. :(
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Dawn
> --
> Proud List Mom of Irish_Crochet_Lovers
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Irish_Crochet_Lovers/
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] lace question
Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 15:48:14 +0200
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Hi,
I tryed several times but the picture wont upload on my monitor. Tryed this 
morning, and now several hours later, no luck, so i cant be of any help!

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 03, 2006 2:59 AM
Subject: [h-cost] lace question


> Can anyone tell me what kind of lace this is?
>
> www.reddawn.net/temp/lace.jpg
>
>
> I looked in my book on the history of lace, but all the pictures started 
> to look alike to me. :(
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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not truely sure the center looks like crochet but the outer edge looks 
like a tatted picot edge.  And I think I have been told neither are SCA 
time frame.  But it is very pretty  theresa

-----Original Message-----
From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sun, 02 Apr 2006 19:59:04 -0500
Subject: [h-cost] lace question

  Can anyone tell me what kind of lace this is?

 www.reddawn.net/temp/lace.jpg

  I looked in my book on the history of lace, but all the pictures 
started to look alike to me. :(


 Dawn

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Turcopoliers-what they wore
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 17:10:43 +0000
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Sorry, Sg, I went through all of my books but could not find anything except for what I have mentioned in my previous message.  I'll keep looking though.

Roscelin

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: WickedFrau <wickedfrau@msn.com>
> Hi all, I have been asked to do some research on what Turcopoliers wore 
> in the 11th and 12th centuries.  I have gone through Worldcat, and of 
> course nothing comes up about them directly.  I am sure I will have to 
> start in some general arms/armour book and was wondering if anyone on 
> the list could point me to a good one.
> 
> Turcopoliers were supposedly a mixed breed Greek/Turk or Saracen who 
> sometimes fought for the crusaders.  When I looke in the OED to find out 
> what they were, I was surprised to find that the term only went back as 
> far as the 15th century...not sure how that could be, but.  Here is the 
> the link to that.
> 
> http://tinyurl.com/gxjls
> 
> Thanks for any pointers!
> 
> Sg*
> *
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: roscelinlimoges@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Turcopoliers-what they wore
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 17:02:49 +0000
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Sg,

  I did a Google and found that the Turcopoliers were mounted archers who assisted the Crusaders during the 11th and 12th centuries.  Let me see if I can find anything in my books on the Crusades.  I have quite a few books on arms and armour.

Roscelin

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: WickedFrau <wickedfrau@msn.com>
> Hi all, I have been asked to do some research on what Turcopoliers wore 
> in the 11th and 12th centuries.  I have gone through Worldcat, and of 
> course nothing comes up about them directly.  I am sure I will have to 
> start in some general arms/armour book and was wondering if anyone on 
> the list could point me to a good one.
> 
> Turcopoliers were supposedly a mixed breed Greek/Turk or Saracen who 
> sometimes fought for the crusaders.  When I looke in the OED to find out 
> what they were, I was surprised to find that the term only went back as 
> far as the 15th century...not sure how that could be, but.  Here is the 
> the link to that.
> 
> http://tinyurl.com/gxjls
> 
> Thanks for any pointers!
> 
> Sg*
> *
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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theresathreadgi@aol.com wrote:
> not truely sure the center looks like crochet but the outer edge looks 
> like a tatted picot edge.  And I think I have been told neither are SCA 
> time frame.  But it is very pretty  theresa
> 

The jury seems be be out for this one. I was hoping to find out what it 
was before I put it on an 18th century shirt. I know it's probably not 
right for that timeframe, but it *is* pretty, as you say, and it was 
practically free as a remnant.

Thanks to everyone who took a stab at it.


Dawn

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2006 00:46:28 +0200
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Subject: [h-cost] 18th century stays
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Hi,
These are rather interresting:
http://tinyurl.com/makg8
Notice the tape at the waist inside, and also the small triangular piece in 
the linning that holds the bulged out front.
Excatly that type of stays i am going to make soon!

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Do you have a picture/illustration?


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of kelly grant
Sent: Monday, April 03, 2006 3:32 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Hoops, was GFD fittings, etc.


The Spanish farthingale is similar in that it balances, but uses a series of

rectangles that you adjust to the wearer.  In the 19thC, the full fabric 
crinolines were often drafted with shaped pieces. By putting the piece with 
more bias to the one with less, the straighter piece pulls the hoop 
backwards, balancing it.

Did I make better sense this time? There are days when language escapes me!
Kelly

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 11:19 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] re: GFD fittings, etc.


> Please excuse my ignorance, but what do you mean "creates a hoop"? 
> How? Sharon
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] 
> On Behalf Of kelly grant
> Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 6:06 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: GFD fittings, etc.
>
>
> Actually, by putting bias to straight in the mid 19thC they created a 
> hoop that would balance itself, and a skirt that would flow away from 
> the legs when walking.  Pretty cool.
>
> A lot of our modern clothing construction method were developed in the 
> 19thC. Some seriously inovative cutting to upholster the body.
>
> Kelly
>
>> Later 19thC skirts through often go straight to slant. I suspect this 
>> has a
>> lot to do with aesthetic appeal as you can see it looks neater when you
>> have
>> stripes;) There is a perfect example of it in PoF 2 of the early 1870s.
>>
>> michaela de bruce
>> http://glittersweet.com
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When I asked about it a couple of years ago, the cost was about $60. Which
isn't bad for custom jeans. I think you can just call Levi Strauss in San
Francisco. 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Susan Data-Samtak
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2006 6:00 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Clothes fitting


Sharon,

That is great news!  How do we go about fitting ourselves for the "MANY 
more sizes"?  Who do we contact?  Any idea of the cost?

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel too
fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark Trail" by
Louis L'Amour

On Apr 1, 2006, at 3:39 AM, Sharon at Collierfam.com wrote:

> A friend of mine works at Levi and says they have MANY more sizes 
> available, which you can try, and then they will tweak the closest fit 
> for you and keep
> the info, so that whenever you want another pair, you just phone and 
> have
> them sent.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
> On
> Behalf Of Marie Stewart
> Sent: Friday, March 31, 2006 10:30 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Clothes fitting
>
>
> Yeup... and I thought seriously about trying a pair... but in the end 
> found another maker of jeans that fit - sigh - well enough,  although 
> I am always
> wanting the denim to be of a heavier weight.
>
> On 3/31/06, Sharon at Collierfam.com <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote:
>> Mari, do you know of the custom fit jeans available from Levis?
>> Sharon
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com
>> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
>> On Behalf Of Marie Stewart
>> Sent: Friday, March 31, 2006 6:39 AM
>> To: Historical Costume
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Clothes fitting
>>
>>
>> Thank you for that article... very interesting.
>>
>> Now what the retailers are missing is the opportunity to expand, and
>> raise their sales.
>>
>> Imagine...  A large chain adopts the Fitlogic system.   Inside their
>> stores,  they create separate boutiques, or even a small independent
>> entity. One for each body type.  Stock the items that flatter that 
>> body type the most in their respective sections.  In larger chains 
>> you could even have different stock for a particular body type in 
>> different stores.  If a customer  finds something they like in one 
>> section, but it is not their body type,  allow them to order (or
>> request from another store) that item in the fit they want.   This
>> wouldn't be anything revolutionary,  major chains already swap 
>> clothing around between stores.
>>
>> How many women would love to have a store that they knew the items
>> would be a better fit.  You see it already, women have brand loyalty, 
>> if a line provides better fit.
>>
>> Oooooh,  just think about it... stores might actually have to sell
>> more items on style and quality if they took out the fit roulette.
>>
>> Mari  -  still irked that Banana Republic stopped making "the perfect
>> fitting jean" in 1992.
>>
>>> Clothes That Fit the Woman, Not the Store
>>> By MICHAEL BARBARO
>>> Published: March 31, 2006
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>>
>
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>
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In a message dated 4/3/2006 9:47:12 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sharon@collierfam.com writes:

In the  19thC, the full fabric 
crinolines were often drafted with shaped pieces.  By putting the piece with 
more bias to the one with less, the straighter  piece pulls the hoop 
backwards, balancing it.



**********************
 
Only in the mid 1860s to the end of the era before it goes into  bustle. The 
effect of cutting a gore with the front edge on the straight and the  back on 
some kind of bias is to push the fullness to the back because the  straight 
will fall vertically and the bias will give way. [You see this  construction, 
w/out hoops of course, in 1890s and 1900s fashion skirts as  well....the effect 
pushing the fullness to the back] But it was also  achieved with just a 
cage....by adding extra vertical tapes at strategic places  in the back part of the 
cage crinoline. And cage or petticoat, these shaped  hoops almost always used 
a pad at the back to keep them balanced.
 
Remember the early hoops were used to relieve the wearer of the multitude  of 
petticoats worn to get the dome shape of the 1830s, 40s and 50s. They  were 
often small....a little more than a stride...and the hoops started at about  
knee level. Throw one or two petticoats over these and you have the same shape  
as just 5 or 6 petticoats. Looked at from above, the shape was  basically a 
circle with the wearer in the center. Of course some small pad  or wadding might 
be added to the petticoat or even the skirt to give the back  more bulk. 
These early hoops were not meant to change the silhouette.
But later, as the hoop comes into its own, it and its cut actually  determine 
the silhouette and you get the hoop which sweeps to the  back....looking from 
above, an egg shape with the small end at the back and the  wearer in the 
center of the widest part. The dome shape gives way to a more  triangular 
silhouette achieved by flat pleating the skirt to the waist, as  opposed to gathers 
or cartridge pleats.
 
I suppose you could use one of the earlier hoops as a farthingale and get  
away with it. But a real farthingale would not be of watch spring steel. Cane,  
rather, and not as flexible or light. And farthingales usually have hoops that 
 start higher than knee level. And the farthingale look is triangular. In 
Janet  Arnold there are flat pleated skirts in many of the Renaissance gowns. And 
some  are gored, not just straight panels, to get that triangular  silhouette.
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Subject: [h-cost] My copy of The Tudor Tailor arrived!
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My copy of The Tudor Tailor arrived in today's mail.  Yippee!  I've 
only glanced through it, but I like the fact that the photographed 
models look like real people, not skinny models.  This will be some 
nice reading (and re-reading) in the evenings.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 
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Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2006 17:26:49 -0700
From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Clothes fitting-link- here it is
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Thanks!

LynnD

On 3/31/06, Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com> wrote:
> <<
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> This page was sent to you by: jsamtak@patmedia.net
>
> Message from sender:
>   FYI
>
>   BUSINESS | March 31, 2006
>   Clothes That Fit the Woman, Not the Store
> By MICHAEL BARBARO
> A Dallas company has developed a sizing system it hopes will allow
> consumers to better navigate the world of off-the-rack apparel.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>   1. Scans Show Different Growth for Intelligent Brains
>   2. Long-Awaited Medical Study Questions the Power of Prayer
>   3. A Preacher's Credo: Eliminate the Negative, Accentuate Prosperity
>   4. Personal Health: A Chance Find, and Voilŕ! Goodbye, Hot Flashes.
> Hello, Sleep.
>   5. Op-Ed Contributor: A Poverty of the Mind
>
> ť  Go to Complete List
>
>
>   >>
> Susan
>
> "Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
> too fast and you miss all you are traveling for". - "Ride the Dark
> Trail" by Louis L'Amour
>
> On Mar 31, 2006, at 7:46 PM, Lynn Downward wrote:
>
> > What magazine/journal was this article from? I have gmail and I didn't
> > see any reference to links or anything.  I'd like to be able to search
> > for the article in an online library and get the links.
> >
> > TIA,
> > LynnD
> >
> > On 3/31/06, Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com> wrote:
> >> At 06:19 AM 3/31/2006, you wrote:
> >>> It is a noble pursuit that has long eluded the clothing industry: a
> >>> standardized sizing system that would allow consumers to navigate the
> >>> frustrating world of off-the-rack apparel, where size varies from
> >>> retailer
> >>> to retailer.
> >>>
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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>
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Apr  4 20:41:47 2006
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Subject: [h-cost] beaded fringe
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Dear Designer/Artisan,
 
Looking for TOP QUALITY  handmade beaded fringes at very  reasonable prices. 
Look no more! You are invited to visit my web site to  see many styles and 
colors for you and your design needs. Simply click  on  
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browsing. Many TOP QUALITY custom HANDMADE beaded items now available. 
 
Custom orders welcome for 10 yards or more per style/color. Any questions  
please email me at  _lkaycelaya@aol.com_ (mailto:lkaycelaya@aol.com) 
 
Thank you,
Kay


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My copy of The Tudor Tailor arrived!
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On Tuesday 04 April 2006 5:39 pm, Joan Jurancich wrote:
> My copy of The Tudor Tailor arrived in today's mail.  Yippee!  I've
> only glanced through it, but I like the fact that the photographed
> models look like real people, not skinny models.  This will be some
> nice reading (and re-reading) in the evenings.

Joan, where do you live?  I'm wondering how soon I'll get mine.  I live in the 
US, near Philadelphia.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
--General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)

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Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2006 20:24:35 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My copy of The Tudor Tailor arrived!
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At 08:23 PM 4/4/2006, you wrote:
>On Tuesday 04 April 2006 5:39 pm, Joan Jurancich wrote:
> > My copy of The Tudor Tailor arrived in today's mail.  Yippee!  I've
> > only glanced through it, but I like the fact that the photographed
> > models look like real people, not skinny models.  This will be some
> > nice reading (and re-reading) in the evenings.
>
>Joan, where do you live?  I'm wondering how soon I'll get mine.  I 
>live in the
>US, near Philadelphia.
>
>--
>Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
>"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
>--General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)

I'm in Sacramento, CA.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My copy of The Tudor Tailor arrived!
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Quoting Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>:

> On Tuesday 04 April 2006 5:39 pm, Joan Jurancich wrote:
>> My copy of The Tudor Tailor arrived in today's mail.  Yippee!  I've
>> only glanced through it, but I like the fact that the photographed
>> models look like real people, not skinny models.  This will be some
>> nice reading (and re-reading) in the evenings.
>
> Joan, where do you live?  I'm wondering how soon I'll get mine.  I 
> live in the
> US, near Philadelphia.
>

I don't remember if it was on this list or another one.  Ninya shipped
*all* the US books to her mother *somewhere* in California.  All the
books that I've seen across my various lists arrived today in
California.  I'm figuring *maybe* Saturday -- probably first of Next
Week for the eastern US.

The book also covers both Henry 8 and Elizabeth I

Jerusha, waiting patiently
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My copy of The Tudor Tailor arrived!
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2006 23:23:33 -0500
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On Tuesday 04 April 2006 11:30 pm, Susan B. Farmer wrote:
> Quoting Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>:
> > On Tuesday 04 April 2006 5:39 pm, Joan Jurancich wrote:
> >> My copy of The Tudor Tailor arrived in today's mail.  Yippee!  I've
> >> only glanced through it, but I like the fact that the photographed
> >> models look like real people, not skinny models.  This will be some
> >> nice reading (and re-reading) in the evenings.
> >
> > Joan, where do you live?  I'm wondering how soon I'll get mine.  I
> > live in the
> > US, near Philadelphia.
>
> I don't remember if it was on this list or another one.  Ninya shipped
> *all* the US books to her mother *somewhere* in California.  All the
> books that I've seen across my various lists arrived today in
> California.  I'm figuring *maybe* Saturday -- probably first of Next
> Week for the eastern US.

Ah, now *that* answers my next question!  So those of us in the Eastern US 
will probably get ours last.  Now I know!  Thanks.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
--General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My copy of The Tudor Tailor arrived!
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I'm near Harrisburg. I'm hoping to find someone close to chech in with about 
Ren dress making.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joan Jurancich" <joanmj@surewest.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 11:24 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My copy of The Tudor Tailor arrived!


> At 08:23 PM 4/4/2006, you wrote:
>>On Tuesday 04 April 2006 5:39 pm, Joan Jurancich wrote:
>> > My copy of The Tudor Tailor arrived in today's mail.  Yippee!  I've
>> > only glanced through it, but I like the fact that the photographed
>> > models look like real people, not skinny models.  This will be some
>> > nice reading (and re-reading) in the evenings.
>>
>>Joan, where do you live?  I'm wondering how soon I'll get mine.  I live in 
>>the
>>US, near Philadelphia.
>>
>>--
>>Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>>
>>"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
>>--General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)
>
> I'm in Sacramento, CA.
>
>
> Joan Jurancich
> joanmj@surewest.net
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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I received my copy two days ago, and have already thumbed through it on  
multiple occasions.  
 
I have to say that it is wonderful, beautifully illustrated and richly  
detailed.  The documentation brought a smile, and I was thrilled to see so  many 
examples of common folk clothes, as opposed to just high fashion.   Portraits 
are great as are extant examples of clothing.  
 
I would highly recommend this book to anyone attempting to recreate 16th  
century clothing. 
 
Clothing, not costumes, yay!
 
:)
~Kimberley
Jacksonville, Florida
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Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2006 17:38:50 +0200
From: Deredere Galbraith <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl>
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Subject: [h-cost] Picture of my silk bliaut
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Finally a picture of the bliaut I am working on.
Made from natural dyed silk and the belt from natural dyed wool
http://mystictimes.nl/Bliaut/ZijdeBliaut.jpg

Greetings,
       Deredere

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From: "kelly grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Picture of my silk bliaut
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That looks fabulous!  Just what I imagined bliaut to look like in person!

Very cool
Kelly
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Deredere Galbraith" <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 12:38 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Picture of my silk bliaut


> Finally a picture of the bliaut I am working on.
> Made from natural dyed silk and the belt from natural dyed wool
> http://mystictimes.nl/Bliaut/ZijdeBliaut.jpg
> 
> Greetings,
>       Deredere
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Picture of my silk bliaut
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Hi Deredere,
You look just like the paintings from the time, very very nice!
Congratulations

Bjarne
 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Deredere Galbraith" <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 5:38 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Picture of my silk bliaut


> Finally a picture of the bliaut I am working on.
> Made from natural dyed silk and the belt from natural dyed wool
> http://mystictimes.nl/Bliaut/ZijdeBliaut.jpg
> 
> Greetings,
>       Deredere
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Greetings--

Deredere Galbraith wrote:
> Finally a picture of the bliaut I am working on.
> Made from natural dyed silk and the belt from natural dyed wool
> http://mystictimes.nl/Bliaut/ZijdeBliaut.jpg
Very spiff!  You've definitely got "the look" down.  Which construction 
method did you use? (For the uninitiated, there are several theories of 
bliaut construction, including simple side lacing, side lacing with 
added length through the body to get the folds across the belly, 
bias-cut, separate skirt piece, and various types of 
pleating/smocking--not to mention the largely discredited "corselet" cut).



Susan
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Picture of my silk bliaut
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	<4433EB6C.8030909@rogers.com>
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It is the very basic construction. with gores to make the skirt wider
and side lacing with added lengt.
The pleating is done by moisting the silk, pleat and let it dry for a day.
Here is the rest of the website.
It is in Dutch
http://mystictimes.nl/Bliaut/Bliaut.html

Susan Carroll-Clark wrote:

> Greetings--
>
> Deredere Galbraith wrote:
>
>> Finally a picture of the bliaut I am working on.
>> Made from natural dyed silk and the belt from natural dyed wool
>> http://mystictimes.nl/Bliaut/ZijdeBliaut.jpg
>
> Very spiff!  You've definitely got "the look" down.  Which 
> construction method did you use? (For the uninitiated, there are 
> several theories of bliaut construction, including simple side lacing, 
> side lacing with added length through the body to get the folds across 
> the belly, bias-cut, separate skirt piece, and various types of 
> pleating/smocking--not to mention the largely discredited "corselet" 
> cut).
>
>
>
> Susan
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My copy of The Tudor Tailor arrived!
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 7:19 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My copy of The Tudor Tailor arrived!


> I'm near Harrisburg. I'm hoping to find someone close to chech in with 
> about Ren dress making.

Hi Becky--I live near Harrisburg, in York. I'd be more than happy to help 
you drool over the book!

Dianne

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Subject: [h-cost] Pilgrim shoes (x-post)
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Does anyone know if Pilgrim Shoes is still in business/taking orders? 

-E House
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Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2006 21:00:30 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Picture of my silk bliaut
References: <20060405153851.22C7031937B@pelian.kabelfoon.nl>
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You really have got the look, it's lovely.  Some time I will take the 
time to read through your site with my Dutch dictionary.  But I do like 
the picture of the dress all twisted up - it looks as if it would go 
through a wedding ring, like a Christening shawl was meant to do!

Jean


Deredere Galbraith <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl> wrote
>It is the very basic construction. with gores to make the skirt wider
>and side lacing with added lengt.
>The pleating is done by moisting the silk, pleat and let it dry for a day.
>Here is the rest of the website.
>It is in Dutch
>http://mystictimes.nl/Bliaut/Bliaut.html
>
>Susan Carroll-Clark wrote:
>
>> Greetings--
>>
>> Deredere Galbraith wrote:
>>
>>> Finally a picture of the bliaut I am working on.
>>> Made from natural dyed silk and the belt from natural dyed wool
>>> http://mystictimes.nl/Bliaut/ZijdeBliaut.jpg
>>
>> Very spiff!  You've definitely got "the look" down.  Which 
>>construction method did you use? (For the uninitiated, there are 
>>several theories of bliaut construction, including simple side lacing, 
>>side lacing with added length through the body to get the folds across 
>>the belly, bias-cut, separate skirt piece, and various types of 
>>pleating/smocking--not to mention the largely discredited "corselet"  cut).
>>
>>
>>
>> Susan
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: roscelinlimoges@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Picture of my silk bliaut
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2006 20:09:32 +0000
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It is a lovely dress.  I wish I could read Dutch so I could make a dress just like this.

Roscelin

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Deredere Galbraith <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl>
> Finally a picture of the bliaut I am working on.
> Made from natural dyed silk and the belt from natural dyed wool
> http://mystictimes.nl/Bliaut/ZijdeBliaut.jpg
> 
> Greetings,
>        Deredere
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Subject: [h-cost] Set Editor wanted
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swiped from another list - Arlys

On Wed, 05 Apr 2006 14:31:26 -0400 Sarah Toich <barjavel@earthlink.net>
writes:
> CSA E-News
> Volume 5 No. 4
> APRIL 2006 Edition
> Costume Society of America
> http://www.costumesocietyamerica.com
> SUBMISSION DEADLINE: APRIL 20, 2006 (for May Edition)
> >>
> >>
>  B. SET EDITOR WANTED: A major academic publisher is looking
> for a set editor for a new project on folk/national
> clothing. The four-volume set will be organized by regions
> of the world, and will identify clothing and accessories
> representative of cultures and countries around the world.
> The set will be geared to undergraduates and an adult
> popular audience. The set editor will identify authors or
> contributors to write entries, review submissions, and
> prepare the final manuscript for production. The project is
> scheduled to be completed within two years. Email your CV to
> mailto:debra.adams@greenwood.com, along with any questions.
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> SCA-Laurels mailing list
> SCA-Laurels@ansteorra.org
> http://www.ansteorra.org/mailman/listinfo/sca-laurels
> 

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Bliaut
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While in Angers recently I saw a great statue of a woman wearing a  bliaut.  
The picture I took shows the lacing on the side.  Since this  isn't my time 
period, I don't know is this is well known statue or not.  If  people are 
interested, please let me know.
 
Nancy
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Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2006 17:14:43 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Bliaut
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Hi Nancy--
Do you have a photo?
Regards
Monica (Catriona)


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of MaddNancy@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 5:06 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Bliaut


While in Angers recently I saw a great statue of a woman wearing a  bliaut.
The picture I took shows the lacing on the side.  Since this  isn't my time
period, I don't know is this is well known statue or not.  If  people are
interested, please let me know.

Nancy
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2006 14:18:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Visiting Washington DC soon take II...
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I forgot to mention that I will also be visiting Colonial
Williamsburg....does anybody know how I can get in to take a look at their
costume collection up close?

Thanks!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
--Ghandi

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Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2006 14:16:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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Hello all,

I will be traveling to Washington DC soon and wanted to hear
recommendations from folks on the list about what to see.  My interests
are existing costumes from Europe 1100-1890 and paintings of the
Renaissance & Baroque periods.

Thanks!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
--Ghandi

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My copy of The Tudor Tailor arrived!
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In a message dated 4/5/06 7:02:05 PM GMT Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> I've only glanced through it, but I like the fact that the photographed 
> models look like real people, not skinny models.  

That's cos they are real people (including lots of UK re-enactors!!), but I 
agree.

Debbie
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Apr  5 18:26:48 2006
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From: Jayne Thomas <dresspattern@yahoo.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Jean Hunnisett Dress
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 Hi!
   
  I would like to make the 1569 Elizabethan dress (or something near as possible!) that is illustrated on page 63 (the one in the middle of the group) of 'Patterns for Women's Dress 1500-1800 for my nearly four year daughter. Yes, I'm being very ambitious here!  The thing is, how would scale the pattern (on page 68 onwards) to fit her?  Am I being a bit too ambitious?!
   
  All the best!
  Jayne

		
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Apr  5 18:54:17 2006
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Subject: [h-cost] book on Stuart costumes
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The following book review was in a recent Library Journal.
I thought some of the list members might be interested.
The book just came out.

Sheryl N-D


Ribeiro, Aileen.
Fashion and Fiction:
Dress in Art and Literature in Stuart England.
Yale Univ. in assoc. with the Paul Mellon
Centre for Studies in British Art.
2006. 387p. photogs. bibliog. index.
ISBN 0-300-10999-7. $65.  FINE ARTS

Fashion books are often large, but Ribeiro's (history of art, Courtauld
Inst. of Art, Univ. of London; The Art of Dress: Fashion in England and
France, 1750-1820) is also otherwise substantial. Flipping through the
pages is a treat enough, with their sumptuous reproductions of
17th-century English paintings, etchings, costume plates, clothing
receipts, and fabric. But Ribeiro's clear text is a refreshing
companion, deftly interweaving poetry, theater, philosophy, politics,
and art into a generalized but engaging chronological survey of how
dress can reflect society, literally becoming a part of its language and
economy. This book delivers its evidence with humor and historical
empathy, reveling in its discussion of the importance of men's garters
and the close connection between emotion (particularly melancholy) and
states of dress (or undress). Despite the author's scholarly background,
the art historical potency of the works is sometimes subsumed by their
role as illustration of fact. However, Ribeiro presents a banquet of
fascinating images, from the most famous Anthony van Dyck royal
portraits to the shockingly modern still life of Wenceslaus Hollar, and
her book is not to be put down lightly. Recommended.

~~~~~~~~

By Prudence Peiffer, Cambridge, MA


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Subject: [h-cost] Henry VIII movie question
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Hey all,

I am thinking of getting a movie, A Man For All Seasons 
(http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0060665/), to watch while I am working on my 
Henrician gown. Our Henry VIII faires are often set during the marriage 
question. But I have never seen the movie. Is it worth getting? How is the 
storyline? How good/bad are the costumes? Is my money better spent on a 
different movie of a similar time frame?

Thanks for any thoughts on this.

Kimiko

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jean Hunnisett Dress
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I have that book and will look at it again. I have LOTS of patterns from 
various sources and see if I have one like it.
Enlarging a book pattern: Copy it on a xerox. Draw a grid on it to make an 
enlarging system. Measure something such as the front seam of a bodice- 
write it down on the copy. I good way to make it simpler it to put 10 
squares on top of the pattern piece. If it's 2 inches, put 10. If it's 1 
inch put 10. It's easier to multiply a number by 10. Then measure your own 
body where the pattern will fit. Compare the numbers.( I'm trying to put it 
into words and am finding it difficult) If your body part area is 12 inches 
then each square will be 1.2 inches for the enlarged pattern. It doesn't 
matter how big the copy squares are.. they are just a starting point. They 
are for placement. The enlargement pattern is where the inches counts.
Either way, enlarging a pattern in such a way takes time.
I hope that helps. Feel free to ask me if you need more help. Sorry I can't 
explain it better. I'm a visual person and putting things in words is 
sometimes harder. I can draw a picture if you'd like....
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jayne Thomas" <dresspattern@yahoo.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 6:25 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Jean Hunnisett Dress


> Hi!
>
>  I would like to make the 1569 Elizabethan dress (or something near as 
> possible!) that is illustrated on page 63 (the one in the middle of the 
> group) of 'Patterns for Women's Dress 1500-1800 for my nearly four year 
> daughter. Yes, I'm being very ambitious here!  The thing is, how would 
> scale the pattern (on page 68 onwards) to fit her?  Am I being a bit too 
> ambitious?!
>
>  All the best!
>  Jayne
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jean Hunnisett Dress
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In a message dated 4/5/2006 6:26:48 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dresspattern@yahoo.co.uk writes:

I would  like to make the 1569 Elizabethan dress (or something near as 
possible!) that  is illustrated on page 63 (the one in the middle of the group) of 
'Patterns  for Women's Dress 1500-1800 for my nearly four year daughter. Yes, 
I'm being  very ambitious here!  The thing is, how would scale the pattern (on 
page  68 onwards) to fit her?  Am I being a bit too  ambitious?!



One technique that might work is to use a different size square, rather  than 
1", to enlarge the pattern--start with, say, her chest measurement and  
decide how big it needs to be, then use squares of that size--does that make  
sense?  I'm imagining more like 3/4" rather than 1".  However, keep in  mind that a 
4 year old's body shape is different from a grown woman's, so you  would have 
to make some other modifications.
 
Ann Wass
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Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2006 17:33:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Henry VIII movie question
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> Hey all,
>
> I am thinking of getting a movie, A Man For All Seasons
> (http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0060665/), to watch while I am working on my
> Henrician gown. Our Henry VIII faires are often set during the marriage
> question. But I have never seen the movie. Is it worth getting? How is the
> storyline? How good/bad are the costumes? Is my money better spent on a
> different movie of a similar time frame?

One of my early favorites is "Anne of the Thousand Days".  The costumes
are pretty good, the story is entertaining if it isn't strictly true.

This has been a favorite of mine for years.  Then I tried to watch "A Man
for All Seasons" and didn't like it much.

Another great Tudor style movie is "Lady Jane".  AWESOME costumes if not a
little later than you are portraying.  Early Helena Bonham Carter and Cary
Elwes.  Also has Patrick Stewart.

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
--Ghandi

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jean Hunnisett Dress
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2006 10:38:20 +1000
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jayne Thomas" <dresspattern@yahoo.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 8:25 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Jean Hunnisett Dress


> Hi!
>
>  I would like to make the 1569 Elizabethan dress (or something near as 
> possible!) that is illustrated on page 63 (the one in the middle of the 
> group) of 'Patterns for Women's Dress 1500-1800 for my nearly four year 
> daughter. Yes, I'm being very ambitious here!  The thing is, how would 
> scale the pattern (on page 68 onwards) to fit her?  Am I being a bit too 
> ambitious?!
>
>  All the best!
>  Jayne
>
Would that be the pattern based on this portrait 
http://tudor-portraits.com/HelenaSnakeborg.jpg ?
The best way might be to take a pattern that's fitted to her measurements 
and then re-draw some of the seams to make it look like the pattern you're 
trying to recreate. Look through the regular pattern catalogues for 
something with a fairly fitted bodice, a waist seam, and a high neckline (so 
it's easy to cut down to the square neckline of the mid 16th century) then 
trace this pattern onto tissue paper and copy the lines you see in the book 
onto your full sized pattern. Fortunately you don't have to deal with 
removing darts/princess seams as people who try to do this with adult 
patterns do.
The other option would be to copy it onto an overhead transparency and blow 
it up using an overhead projector, then you just pick one measurement (e.g. 
the centre front) blow it up to that size trace off the pattern and adjust 
the rest of the pattern to match her measurements (you'll almost certainly 
need to reduce the difference between the bust and the waist for a child)
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My copy of The Tudor Tailor arrived!
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2006 21:40:25 -0500
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On Wednesday 05 April 2006 1:42 pm, Dianne & Greg Stucki wrote:
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 7:19 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] My copy of The Tudor Tailor arrived!
>
> > I'm near Harrisburg. I'm hoping to find someone close to chech in with
> > about Ren dress making.
>
> Hi Becky--I live near Harrisburg, in York. I'd be more than happy to help
> you drool over the book!

I'm about 2 hours east of Harrisburg; Dianne is definitely closer. 

But for what it's worth, my copy arrived today.  It truly is droolworthy--even 
though my real love is the Viking era!  What spurred me to buy the book was 
the hope of enabling the authors' proposed next project--The Stuart Tailor.  
People able and willing to prepare works like these are to be encouraged.  
Viva Ninya and Jane, and their whole team!

-- 
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Subject: [h-cost] need help with dress...
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Here is my problem:

I have a GFD but want to put another layer on over top.

Would it be appropriate to have something like a semi-fitted T-tunic dress over it? I am looking for something knee-length or longer with 'flowy' mid forearm length sleeves.

Is there anything appropriate that I can make? I want to stay more in the same time period to the form-fitted GFD.

Thanks
Katheryne
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Visiting Washington DC soon take II...
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I just got back from DC.
 
This has nothing to do with costume, but there is a Grant Wood exhibit at  
the Renwick Gallery... diagonally across the street from the White House.  It's 
not a big all day thing, so if you have an hour or so, see if you can catch  
it. It's full of wonderful stuff....his "craft" works...like iron gates and a  
wonderful "corn cob" chandelier. "American Gothic" is there on loan from the  
Chicago Art Inst. It a masterpiece, quite amazing in person no matter how many 
 times you've seen it printed or spoofed somewhere. And other great paintings 
as  well like his portrait of members of the DAR and "The Midnight Ride of 
Paul  Revere" and "Parson Weem's Fable".
 
It's there until July I think.
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Bliaut
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2006 23:31:48 -0400
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Yes, we are always interested in more bliaut pictures!  Especially if it shows the lacing!  Could you post it somewhere?  Do you have a date?

Janet
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: MaddNancy@aol.com 
  To: h-costume@indra.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 5:05 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] Re: Bliaut


  While in Angers recently I saw a great statue of a woman wearing a  bliaut.  
  The picture I took shows the lacing on the side.  Since this  isn't my time 
  period, I don't know is this is well known statue or not.  If  people are 
  interested, please let me know.
   
  Nancy
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] need help with dress...
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On Wed, 5 Apr 2006 purplkat@optonline.net wrote:

> I have a GFD but want to put another layer on over top.
> 
> Would it be appropriate to have something like a semi-fitted T-tunic
> dress over it? I am looking for something knee-length or longer with
> 'flowy' mid forearm length sleeves.
> 
> Is there anything appropriate that I can make? I want to stay more in
> the same time period to the form-fitted GFD.

The Gothic fitted dress existed in some from from roughly 1350 to 1450,
and there are a variety of overdresses to choose from in that period. To
my knowledge they are all full-length, so I wouldn't suggest going
shorter.

The body could be fitted (like the underdress), seen throughout this
period (though details of the fitted silhouette change). It might be
rather looser, as a basic gown -- rather like you describe above; this is
not often seen in art, but it does show up in the 1380s or so, in English
brasses.  By the end of the 1300s that loose gown had morphed into the
houppelande, which is very very full in the body (flaring from a closer
fit at the shoulder).

Sleeves range as well, usually tight with the tight bodies, and wide or
bagged with the houppelandes, but sometimes done otherwise. The rare
instances when you see the loose mid-width gown, it often has semi-wide
sleeves that look rather like a modern blazer's in width and length, with
the cuffs of the long underdress sleeves showing at the wrists. So yes, if
you hunt, you can find some examples of a semi-fitted tunic-style gown
with sleeves that come just a bit short of the wrist.  But it's rare. One
example I'm looking at is the brass of Marion Grevel, c. 1386, in Margaret
Scott's _Visual History of Costume: The 14th and 15th centuries_. This one
already has the high collar of the houppelande, and really looks like an
early houppelande.

I suspect you can find more examples of these mid-sized bodies and looser
sleeves on middle-class rather than upper-class women. I don't have time
to go hunting for you right now, but I would suggest you look at the
health handbooks (Tacuinum Sanitatus); these are Lombardic with French
influence. You might have a shot of finding "flowy" sleeves there too.

--Robin


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Hi everyone,
I've just come across a new picture the central portrait at the top of this 
page http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/Documents/the_marriage_of_queen_mary.htm 
I'm interested because it's a side view of a French hood (and more portraits 
are always good) but I can't find a larger picture, has anybody else seen 
this portrait before and know where I can find a better picture of it? This 
website doesn't provide any details on where it is or who painted it, and 
from what I've read elsewhere on this site I think the images are all taken 
from the web so there's no chance of looking it up in a book.
thanks
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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From: Jayne Thomas <dresspattern@yahoo.co.uk>
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Hi!
   
  Just to say 'Thanks' for all the suggestions for scaling the Elizabethan dress!  I will certainly have a go!  I can see the costume in my mind, black velvet with a pearl trim(I have seen a fabric for the contrast in the skirt, white with a black Elizabethan style pattern), white parlet, white ruff with a black edging (with more pearls!), and a black hat with a white feather! Better get on with it....!
   
  All the Best
  Jayne
  PS  No doubt I'll be posting more questions! 

		
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger  NEW - crystal clear PC to PC calling worldwide with voicemail 
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] My copy of The Tudor Tailor arrived!
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2006 02:09:46 -0700
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Oh, yes, a whole series.........sign me up!
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Catherine Olanich Raymond
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 7:40 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My copy of The Tudor Tailor arrived!


On Wednesday 05 April 2006 1:42 pm, Dianne & Greg Stucki wrote:
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 7:19 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] My copy of The Tudor Tailor arrived!
>
> > I'm near Harrisburg. I'm hoping to find someone close to chech in 
> > with about Ren dress making.
>
> Hi Becky--I live near Harrisburg, in York. I'd be more than happy to 
> help you drool over the book!

I'm about 2 hours east of Harrisburg; Dianne is definitely closer. 

But for what it's worth, my copy arrived today.  It truly is
droolworthy--even 
though my real love is the Viking era!  What spurred me to buy the book was 
the hope of enabling the authors' proposed next project--The Stuart Tailor.

People able and willing to prepare works like these are to be encouraged.  
Viva Ninya and Jane, and their whole team!

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish." --General Fillmore
(from "The Tick," episode 2)

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From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] need help with dress...
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2006 02:10:35 -0700
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What's a GFD?

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of purplkat@optonline.net
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 7:40 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] need help with dress...


Here is my problem:

I have a GFD but want to put another layer on over top.

Would it be appropriate to have something like a semi-fitted T-tunic dress
over it? I am looking for something knee-length or longer with 'flowy' mid
forearm length sleeves.

Is there anything appropriate that I can make? I want to stay more in the
same time period to the form-fitted GFD.

Thanks
Katheryne
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Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2006 10:31:58 +0100
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] book on Stuart costumes
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Sounds fantastic! Must look out for it.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> sherylnd@kc.rr.com 05/04/2006 23:53 >>>
The following book review was in a recent Library Journal.
I thought some of the list members might be interested.
The book just came out.

Sheryl N-D


Ribeiro, Aileen.
Fashion and Fiction:
Dress in Art and Literature in Stuart England.
Yale Univ. in assoc. with the Paul Mellon
Centre for Studies in British Art.
2006. 387p. photogs. bibliog. index.
ISBN 0-300-10999-7. $65.  FINE ARTS




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From: "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My copy of The Tudor Tailor arrived!
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2006 07:17:32 -0400
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I'm well underway into making my first Renaissance garb. My daughter has 
chosen the portrait of Princess Elizabeth in the pink/orange dress. I'll 
post a diary somewhere when it's done. I have paid way more than I should 
have to gather all the correct fabrics and assessories. I plan on her 
wearing it for quite a while, too. When hers is done, I'll have to make 
myself one so we are in the same time frame. Since I'll be taking her with 
me at the same time, makes sense to me to be within reason on our garments.
One thing about having to pay so much for all this stuff... I buy in bulk 
when I can. I'm all set to make a whole wardrobe one day. Now, How do I 
organize it all so I can find something. that is the next major task I need 
to get done one day soon.
Any one able to come help me do that?
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 10:40 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My copy of The Tudor Tailor arrived!


> On Wednesday 05 April 2006 1:42 pm, Dianne & Greg Stucki wrote:
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
>> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 7:19 AM
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] My copy of The Tudor Tailor arrived!
>>
>> > I'm near Harrisburg. I'm hoping to find someone close to chech in with
>> > about Ren dress making.
>>
>> Hi Becky--I live near Harrisburg, in York. I'd be more than happy to help
>> you drool over the book!
>
> I'm about 2 hours east of Harrisburg; Dianne is definitely closer.
>
> But for what it's worth, my copy arrived today.  It truly is 
> droolworthy--even
> though my real love is the Viking era!  What spurred me to buy the book 
> was
> the hope of enabling the authors' proposed next project--The Stuart 
> Tailor.
> People able and willing to prepare works like these are to be encouraged.
> Viva Ninya and Jane, and their whole team!
>
> -- 
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
> --General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)
>
> _______________________________________________
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> 
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Apr  6 08:12:15 2006
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Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2006 07:59:03 -0400
From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: bliaut
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Derdere:

It looks great in the photo. Also, although I don't read Dutch, I had no
trouble following the site and understanding what you did.

I do have one practical question. The silk you used seems to be very light.
Do you think that the bliauts of the time were made of such light silk?
Would it have been warm enough for clothing when there was no central
heating? Is the skirt heavy enough to stay down, or does it "float" up?

But I am not criticizing! It looks great, and you look great in it!

Gail Finke

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My copy of The Tudor Tailor arrived!
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 7:17 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My copy of The Tudor Tailor arrived!


> I'm well underway into making my first Renaissance garb. My daughter has 
> chosen the portrait of Princess Elizabeth in the pink/orange dress. I'll 
> post a diary somewhere when it's done. I have paid way more than I should 
> have to gather all the correct fabrics and assessories. I plan on her 
> wearing it for quite a while, too. When hers is done, I'll have to make 
> myself one so we are in the same time frame. Since I'll be taking her with 
> me at the same time, makes sense to me to be within reason on our 
> garments.
> One thing about having to pay so much for all this stuff... I buy in bulk 
> when I can. I'm all set to make a whole wardrobe one day. Now, How do I 
> organize it all so I can find something. that is the next major task I 
> need to get done one day soon.
> Any one able to come help me do that?

Organize? ORGANIZE?

(runs away screaming)

Dianne

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Subject: [h-cost] Organising the fabric stash (was Re: My copy of The Tudor
	Tailor arrived!
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<snip> I'm all set to make a whole wardrobe one day. Now, How do I
> organize it all so I can find something. that is the next major task I 
> need to get done one day soon.
> Any one able to come help me do that?

try http://seworganized.com/index.shtml  I know there's another page out 
there written by a guy in the SCA about how he organised his fabric stash 
but I can't find it so I'll summarise. Basically he put all his fabric in 
boxes and had index cards with a sample of the fabric, and it's details 
(e.g. how much of the fabric there was, fibre content, price, if it was 
intended for a specific project etc) in a separate box so he could put his 
fabric in storage but still know what he had and where to find it without 
going through his entire stash.
Aha! A search through the H-cost archives turned up this message 
http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/Fashion/index.cgi?l=ALL&s=stash&Cmd=Match+9 and 
although the link in that message seems to be broken a web search for the 
author's name turned up this 
http://www.florilegium.org/files/TEXTILES/Fnd-Tme-2-Sew-art.rtf
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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Gothic Fitted Gown (or, alternately, "GFD," for Gothic Fitted Dress)....that
ubiquitous dress found, uhm, roughly from late 13th century through the 15th
on many European women (that's a REALLY rough time frame).  They tend to
have a snug fit from the shoulders to the hips, at which point they widen
into full skirts.  Necklines vary with time and style.  Sleeves often
close-fitting.  If done properly, these gowns can actually function
admirably as a support for one's, uhm, feminine charms ;o).  Even work with
a very large bust (personal experience--I'm REALLY large chested, and the
girls don't *move* in one of them AND I can still breathe...it's amazing).
Most often made in a good, flexible wool fabric like gabardine, and lined
with a sturdy linen, but other fashion fabrics have been used.  Wool and
linen just make a marvelous team for them...
Often known as "cotehardies" in costuming texts, but they're really, more
properly, only the first of one's outer layers.  (Think shift, then gown,
and then another layer--another gown, or a surcoat, or a houpelande.)
In the original post, the author's asking about appropriate outer layers to
go over her gown.
Does that help? or just confuse?  Fitted gowns are an off-and-on again topic
on the list, not in the least because we've got Robin, who's done a lot of
research on them, and a lot of teaching and lecturing on them as well.
--Sue, in "will it ever stop raining, yes I KNOW it's April" Montana ;o)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 3:10 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] need help with dress...


> What's a GFD?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of purplkat@optonline.net
> Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 7:40 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] need help with dress...
>
>
> Here is my problem:
>
> I have a GFD but want to put another layer on over top.
>
> Would it be appropriate to have something like a semi-fitted T-tunic dress
> over it? I am looking for something knee-length or longer with 'flowy' mid
> forearm length sleeves.
>
> Is there anything appropriate that I can make? I want to stay more in the
> same time period to the form-fitted GFD.
>
> Thanks
> Katheryne
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
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Elizabeth wrote:
> I've just come across a new picture the central portrait at the top of 
> this page 
> http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/Documents/the_marriage_of_queen_mary.htm I'm 
> interested because it's a side view of a French hood (and more portraits 
> are always good) but I can't find a larger picture, has anybody else seen 
> this portrait before and know where I can find a better picture of it? 
> This website doesn't provide any details on where it is or who painted it, 
> and from what I've read elsewhere on this site I think the images are all 
> taken from the web so there's no chance of looking it up in a book.


This is a small panel portrait by an anonymous artist of the English school 
held at the Denver Art Museum in the Berger Collection.  A somewhat larger 
version can be found here: 
http://www.bridgeman.co.uk/search/view_image2.asp?image_id=119972

This link will take you directly to the image in the museum collection: 
http://www.bergercollection.org/artwork_detail.php?i=37   You can enlarge 
it, but the resolution is very fuzzy.

Good luck,

               -Helen/Aidan 

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The silk is very thin but it is warmer than I expected.
I don't think it will float up. It tends to kling a bit to the
underdress probably because of the pleating.

On 17 April I will be wearing the dress.
It should be spring but the weather is still cold so I will find out if
the dress will be warm enough...



Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

>Derdere:
>
>It looks great in the photo. Also, although I don't read Dutch, I had no
>trouble following the site and understanding what you did.
>
>I do have one practical question. The silk you used seems to be very light.
>Do you think that the bliauts of the time were made of such light silk?
>Would it have been warm enough for clothing when there was no central
>heating? Is the skirt heavy enough to stay down, or does it "float" up?
>
>But I am not criticizing! It looks great, and you look great in it!
>
>Gail Finke
>
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>  
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Henry VIII movie question
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I saw the film of A Man for All Seasons when it first came out; subsequently I was in a production of the play, at my college, in the role of Lady Alice More. Then, a few years later, I saw the film again.

I found the film enormously moving (both times) and the play even more so. I saw the film long before I had much idea of genuine period clothing, but I remember the costuming as rich, textured, and appropriate to the characters. I haven't seen the film in many years so can't update that impression.

Paul Scofield was, I thought, great; opposite Wendy Hiller (Alice), who could ask for anything more. Was this the film where Vanessa Redgrave played Anne Boleyn? She is forevermore my image of Anne--that eagerness in her face is still with me.

What the play has that the film lacks is a character called The Common Man--a protean who takes a number of the small roles and also narrates to the audience. In his minor roles he greases the wheels of the catastrophe in the course of protecting his own interests: hence the chill of his last line to the audience, "Remember me." What the film has that the play lacks is gorgeous, gorgeous scenery. (and of course Scofield!)

This is a play by one of England's great latter-20th-c playwrights, Robert Bolt. The text is drawn partly from More's writings and is uniformly vivid in its use of language, as well as thought-provoking and reasonably responsible historically. I would say that the film is DEFINITELY worth seeing, even though, as I suggest above, I can't vouch for the historical accuracy of the costuming beyond saying that More's family's clothing in the Holbein portraits matches my recollection of More's family's clothing in the film.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
>From: Diana Habra <dch@inreach.com>
>Sent: Apr 5, 2006 8:33 PM
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Henry VIII movie question
>
>
>> Hey all,
>>
>> I am thinking of getting a movie, A Man For All Seasons
>> (http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0060665/), to watch while I am working on my
>> Henrician gown. Our Henry VIII faires are often set during the marriage
>> question. But I have never seen the movie. Is it worth getting? How is the
>> storyline? How good/bad are the costumes? Is my money better spent on a
>> different movie of a similar time frame?
>
>One of my early favorites is "Anne of the Thousand Days".  The costumes
>are pretty good, the story is entertaining if it isn't strictly true.
>
>This has been a favorite of mine for years.  Then I tried to watch "A Man
>for All Seasons" and didn't like it much.
>
>Another great Tudor style movie is "Lady Jane".  AWESOME costumes if not a
>little later than you are portraying.  Early Helena Bonham Carter and Cary
>Elwes.  Also has Patrick Stewart.
>
>Diana
>
>www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
>"Everything for the Costumer"
>
>"Become the change you want to see in the world."
>--Ghandi
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Picture of my silk bliaut
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I agree with you it is just fantastic. theresa

-----Original Message-----
From: roscelinlimoges@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wed, 05 Apr 2006 20:09:32 +0000
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Picture of my silk bliaut

   It is a lovely dress.  I wish I could read Dutch so I could make a 
dress just
like this.

Roscelin

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Deredere Galbraith <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl>
> Finally a picture of the bliaut I am working on.
> Made from natural dyed silk and the belt from natural dyed wool
> http://mystictimes.nl/Bliaut/ZijdeBliaut.jpg
>
> Greetings,
>        Deredere
>
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Nancy would you please post the picture I am very much interested in 
seeing it. thanks theresa

-----Original Message-----
From: MaddNancy@aol.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Wed, 5 Apr 2006 17:05:43 EDT
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Bliaut

   While in Angers recently I saw a great statue of a woman wearing a  
bliaut.
The picture I took shows the lacing on the side.  Since this  isn't my 
time
period, I don't know is this is well known statue or not.  If  people 
are
interested, please let me know.

Nancy
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I have uploaded the pictures to an album  named bliaut.  I hope  they help.  
Most of the cathedral was built in the 12th and 13th  centuries.
 
If you ever get the chance, I really recommend visiting Angers.  The  
cathedral is very nice, and the chateau is really lovely.  It also has the  wonderful 
Apocalypse Tapestry!
 
http://pictures.aol.com/ap/myAlbums.do?albumId=48138.968.1144345462753.1
 
Nancy
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Date: Thu,  6 Apr 2006 15:11:32 -0400
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Bliaut
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Quoting MaddNancy@aol.com:

> I have uploaded the pictures to an album  named bliaut.  I hope  they help.
> Most of the cathedral was built in the 12th and 13th  centuries.
>
> If you ever get the chance, I really recommend visiting Angers.  The
> cathedral is very nice, and the chateau is really lovely.  It also 
> has the  wonderful
> Apocalypse Tapestry!
>
> http://pictures.aol.com/ap/myAlbums.do?albumId=48138.968.1144345462753.1

It tells me I have to log on to see them.  Am I just *special* today?

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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> > I have uploaded the pictures to an album  named bliaut.  I 
> hope  they help.
> > Most of the cathedral was built in the 12th and 13th  centuries.
> >
> > If you ever get the chance, I really recommend visiting 
> Angers.  The 
> > cathedral is very nice, and the chateau is really lovely.  
> It also has 
> > the  wonderful Apocalypse Tapestry!
> >
> > 
> http://pictures.aol.com/ap/myAlbums.do?albumId=48138.968.1144345462753
> > .1
> 
> It tells me I have to log on to see them.  Am I just *special* today?

Susan,

No, I'm in the same boat.  And once you log in (assuming you have some kind
of AOL sign-on) it will take you to your own album space rather than hers.
I haven't found a way to find the images on AOL's system.

Dan


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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <007501c65938$a256dc80$17d4f5dc@user4712b7d135>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Picture of Queen Mary I
Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2006 10:53:13 +1000
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<snip>
> This is a small panel portrait by an anonymous artist of the English 
> school held at the Denver Art Museum in the Berger Collection.  A somewhat 
> larger version can be found here: 
> http://www.bridgeman.co.uk/search/view_image2.asp?image_id=119972
>
> This link will take you directly to the image in the museum collection: 
> http://www.bergercollection.org/artwork_detail.php?i=37   You can enlarge 
> it, but the resolution is very fuzzy.
>
> Good luck,
>
>               -Helen/Aidan

Thanks for that, especially the second one (I didn't get any problems with 
fuzziness, though you've got to give it a few moments to clear up when you 
zoom) That French hood is certainly interesting, if you zoom in to the area 
at the bottom of her ear you can see that the black band at the front is 
laid over an 'ordinary' French Hood coz you can just see the end of her 
jewelled blimmet sticking out from the bottom plus you can also see a white 
band going underneath her jaw. The other interesting point is I think the 
back blimmet might curve under at the back of her neck, which makes me 
wonder how far it extends towards the back of her neck and whether perhaps 
it helps to keep it on and maybe it extends all the way across.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] need help with dress...
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2006 18:53:09 -0700
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Thanks. In college, our costume teacher made one on the bias. She had the
actress lay down on the fabric and traced around her. I wish I'd examined it
more closely. Would bias have been period, or was it just theatrical
license? The dress moved beautifully.
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sue Clemenger
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 7:15 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] need help with dress...


Gothic Fitted Gown (or, alternately, "GFD," for Gothic Fitted Dress)....that
ubiquitous dress found, uhm, roughly from late 13th century through the 15th
on many European women (that's a REALLY rough time frame).  They tend to
have a snug fit from the shoulders to the hips, at which point they widen
into full skirts.  Necklines vary with time and style.  Sleeves often
close-fitting.  If done properly, these gowns can actually function
admirably as a support for one's, uhm, feminine charms ;o).  Even work with
a very large bust (personal experience--I'm REALLY large chested, and the
girls don't *move* in one of them AND I can still breathe...it's amazing).
Most often made in a good, flexible wool fabric like gabardine, and lined
with a sturdy linen, but other fashion fabrics have been used.  Wool and
linen just make a marvelous team for them... Often known as "cotehardies" in
costuming texts, but they're really, more properly, only the first of one's
outer layers.  (Think shift, then gown, and then another layer--another
gown, or a surcoat, or a houpelande.) In the original post, the author's
asking about appropriate outer layers to go over her gown. Does that help?
or just confuse?  Fitted gowns are an off-and-on again topic on the list,
not in the least because we've got Robin, who's done a lot of research on
them, and a lot of teaching and lecturing on them as well. --Sue, in "will
it ever stop raining, yes I KNOW it's April" Montana ;o)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 3:10 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] need help with dress...


> What's a GFD?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] 
> On Behalf Of purplkat@optonline.net
> Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 7:40 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] need help with dress...
>
>
> Here is my problem:
>
> I have a GFD but want to put another layer on over top.
>
> Would it be appropriate to have something like a semi-fitted T-tunic 
> dress over it? I am looking for something knee-length or longer with 
> 'flowy' mid forearm length sleeves.
>
> Is there anything appropriate that I can make? I want to stay more in 
> the same time period to the form-fitted GFD.
>
> Thanks
> Katheryne
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
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>
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Picture of Queen Mary I
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2006 18:57:59 -0700
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I find it interesting that you can clearly see a cord/tie that goes under
her chin to keep it on. I always thought they just balanced.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Elizabeth Walpole
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 5:53 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Picture of Queen Mary I


<snip>
> This is a small panel portrait by an anonymous artist of the English
> school held at the Denver Art Museum in the Berger Collection.  A somewhat

> larger version can be found here: 
> http://www.bridgeman.co.uk/search/view_image2.asp?image_id=119972
>
> This link will take you directly to the image in the museum collection: 
> http://www.bergercollection.org/artwork_detail.php?i=37   You can enlarge 
> it, but the resolution is very fuzzy.
>
> Good luck,
>
>               -Helen/Aidan

Thanks for that, especially the second one (I didn't get any problems with 
fuzziness, though you've got to give it a few moments to clear up when you 
zoom) That French hood is certainly interesting, if you zoom in to the area 
at the bottom of her ear you can see that the black band at the front is 
laid over an 'ordinary' French Hood coz you can just see the end of her 
jewelled blimmet sticking out from the bottom plus you can also see a white 
band going underneath her jaw. The other interesting point is I think the 
back blimmet might curve under at the back of her neck, which makes me 
wonder how far it extends towards the back of her neck and whether perhaps 
it helps to keep it on and maybe it extends all the way across. Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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On Thu, 6 Apr 2006, Sharon at Collierfam.com wrote:

> Thanks. In college, our costume teacher made one on the bias. She had
> the actress lay down on the fabric and traced around her. I wish I'd
> examined it more closely. Would bias have been period, or was it just
> theatrical license? The dress moved beautifully.

Definitely theatrical license. I've seen absolutely no evidence for that
sort of cut in the Middle Ages. Plus, if you want the dress actually to
support you and manipulate your figure (rather than just clinging to
what's already there) you need the strength of straight grain at crucial
points.

There's some information about this dress, including likely constructions,
on my not-quite-a-webpage: http://www.netherton.net/robin . Look for the
.pdf "FAQ" and the collection of previous h-cost posts.

Sue saved me a lot of work by answering your earlier question! Only one
slight fix to her excellent summary:

> Gothic Fitted Gown (or, alternately, "GFD," for Gothic Fitted
> Dress)....that ubiquitous dress found, uhm, roughly from late 13th
> century through the 15th on many European women (that's a REALLY rough
> time frame).

More like mid-14th to mid-15th centuries, I'd say.

I think I'm to blame for the term "gothic fitted dress," which was a
generic I came up with to deal with the terminology problem (there are
many terms used for this general category of dress in the period, varying
by time and place, and the terms used by modern costumers are often not
the ones used in the period). It coincides with the style art historians
call "International Gothic," its key feature is that it's fitted, and it's
a dress. It was people on this list who began abbreviating it as GFD,
which I would never have anticipated!

It was at the Chicago CostumeCon that someone from this list came up to me
while I was in costume, and said "A GFD! It's a BFD!" Fortunately she was
grinning.

(For our non-American readers, "BFD" is an abbreviation for a phrase that
begins with "big" and ends with "deal.")

--Robin


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My copy of The Tudor Tailor arrived!
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2006 23:19:09 -0500
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On Thursday 06 April 2006 7:17 am, Becky wrote:
> I'm well underway into making my first Renaissance garb. My daughter has
> chosen the portrait of Princess Elizabeth in the pink/orange dress. I'll
> post a diary somewhere when it's done. I have paid way more than I should
> have to gather all the correct fabrics and assessories. I plan on her
> wearing it for quite a while, too. When hers is done, I'll have to make
> myself one so we are in the same time frame. Since I'll be taking her with
> me at the same time, makes sense to me to be within reason on our garments.
> One thing about having to pay so much for all this stuff... I buy in bulk
> when I can. I'm all set to make a whole wardrobe one day. Now, How do I
> organize it all so I can find something. that is the next major task I need
> to get done one day soon.
> Any one able to come help me do that?

Ah, Becky, if I could only organize my *own* stuff, I'd be ahead of the 
game.  :-)

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
--General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)

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No Susan it tells me I have no pictures in aol theresa

-----Original Message-----
From: Susan B. Farmer <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thu,  6 Apr 2006 15:11:32 -0400
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Bliaut

  Quoting MaddNancy@aol.com:

  > I have uploaded the pictures to an album named bliaut. I hope they 
help.
 > Most of the cathedral was built in the 12th and 13th centuries.
 >
 > If you ever get the chance, I really recommend visiting Angers. The
  > cathedral is very nice, and the chateau is really lovely. It also > 
has the wonderful
 > Apocalypse Tapestry!
 >
  > 
http://pictures.aol.com/ap/myAlbums.do?albumId=48138.968.1144345462753.1 


 It tells me I have to log on to see them. Am I just *special* today?

 susan
 -----
 Susan Farmer
 sfarmer@goldsword.com
 University of Tennessee
 Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
 http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My copy of The Tudor Tailor arrived!
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<---zeartiste@hotmail.com wrote:
<
<One thing about having to pay so much for all this stuff... I buy in bulk 
<when I can. I'm all set to make a whole wardrobe one day. Now, How do I 
<organize it all so I can find something. that is the next major task I need 
<to get done one day soon.
<Any one able to come help me do that?

You may this article useful -

http://www.bitwizards.com/norborough/timetosew.html

I have plans to use this method myself, when I finally unpack my fabric ( we only moved house this time last year!;-\ ).

Joannah

~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~



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Today I recieved a lesser quality made dress-up gown of Elizabethan era. My 
daughter tried it on at the fair last year and wanted it so badly. I had no 
more money then so we didn't get it. I found the same thing online and 
ordered it when I did get the money. It's a velour type fabric with attached 
collar that stands up. She'll love playing dress-up in it until I can finish 
her Princess Elizabeth costume. I cut the pin fabric tomorrow!!!!! I am 
waiting to cut the velvet sleeves until I can make a mock-up of it BEFORE 
cuutting that fabaulour fabric I found.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 10:40 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My copy of The Tudor Tailor arrived!


> On Wednesday 05 April 2006 1:42 pm, Dianne & Greg Stucki wrote:
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
>> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 7:19 AM
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] My copy of The Tudor Tailor arrived!
>>
>> > I'm near Harrisburg. I'm hoping to find someone close to chech in with
>> > about Ren dress making.
>>
>> Hi Becky--I live near Harrisburg, in York. I'd be more than happy to help
>> you drool over the book!
>
> I'm about 2 hours east of Harrisburg; Dianne is definitely closer.
>
> But for what it's worth, my copy arrived today.  It truly is 
> droolworthy--even
> though my real love is the Viking era!  What spurred me to buy the book 
> was
> the hope of enabling the authors' proposed next project--The Stuart 
> Tailor.
> People able and willing to prepare works like these are to be encouraged.
> Viva Ninya and Jane, and their whole team!
>
> -- 
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
> --General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Apr  8 19:33:53 2006
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
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Someone mentioned this to me:

http://www.costumesociety.org.uk/newstuff/Awards/patterns.html

Deadline April 30, but there are so many people here who use these books,
the winning piece might be in an h-costumer's closet already.

The hitch: If I read this right you have to be a student in a
costume/fashion-related line of study (full or part time).

--Robin

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MaddNancy@aol.com wrote:

> I have uploaded the pictures to an album  named bliaut.  I hope  they help.  
> Most of the cathedral was built in the 12th and 13th  centuries.
>  

>  
> http://pictures.aol.com/ap/myAlbums.do?albumId=48138.968.1144345462753.1

I don't think AOL is allowing that album to be shared. I even logged in 
with my AOL account and it won't let me see them.



Dawn



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Subject: [h-cost] Re: organizing (was: My copy of the Tudor Tailor arrived!)
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I'll come help organize your stash if you come help organize mine! :)
 
Tea Rose
 
 
 Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2006 07:17:32 -0400
From: "Becky" <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My copy of The Tudor Tailor arrived!
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>

Now, How do I organize it all so I can find something. that is the next major task I need to get done one day soon. Any one able to come help me do that?
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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] GFD, was: need help with dress...
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2006 21:22:07 -0600
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I went early on that, thinking of those gowns in the Manesse Codex, which I
think are early 14th? late 13th?  I seem to have tagged them in my own mind
as sort of proto-GFD's because of the sleeves, but of course, the gowns
themselves not very close-fitting....
--Sue, pulling out the old "blame it on a lack of caffeine" excuse ;o)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 8:40 PM
Subject: [h-cost] GFD, was: need help with dress...


> Sue saved me a lot of work by answering your earlier question! Only one
> slight fix to her excellent summary:
>
> > Gothic Fitted Gown (or, alternately, "GFD," for Gothic Fitted
> > Dress)....that ubiquitous dress found, uhm, roughly from late 13th
> > century through the 15th on many European women (that's a REALLY rough
> > time frame).
>
> More like mid-14th to mid-15th centuries, I'd say.


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Subject: [h-cost] Wool Disaster!!
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A cashmere(?) knit, silk-lined Valentino coat was
brought into my shop today.  A very sweet old lady's
maid had tried to wash it for her.  Suffice it to say,
the coat is now 15" shorter than the lining!!  It
hasn't been dried, and is still damp.

ANYONE have any suggestions?  We were thinking of
keeping it wet and trying to stretch it out as best we
can using some weights (chain?).  Obviously the
garment is a loss if it doesn't work so we're welcome
to try any method at all to make it any better...
because we can't make it much worse!  I'm just not
sure if the fact that it's knit makes it any more
possible to save.

Thanks,
--Rachel

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Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2006 22:45:21 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Picture of Queen Mary I
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My research on gable hoods suggested that gables just balance, but 
french hoods usually tie.  I didn't find any gables where you could 
clearly see a tie, but it's quite common with french hoods.

I like that, when I looked at the small image I thought the hood seemed 
to have a round bag at the back, but with more detail you can see it is 
a falling veil, just painted a bit lighter than the part closest to her 
head.

Jean


Sharon at Collierfam.com <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote
>I find it interesting that you can clearly see a cord/tie that goes under
>her chin to keep it on. I always thought they just balanced.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
>Behalf Of Elizabeth Walpole
>Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 5:53 PM
>To: Historical Costume
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Picture of Queen Mary I
>
>
><snip>
>> This is a small panel portrait by an anonymous artist of the English
>> school held at the Denver Art Museum in the Berger Collection.  A somewhat
>
>> larger version can be found here:
>> http://www.bridgeman.co.uk/search/view_image2.asp?image_id=119972
>>
>> This link will take you directly to the image in the museum collection:
>> http://www.bergercollection.org/artwork_detail.php?i=37   You can enlarge
>> it, but the resolution is very fuzzy.
>>
>> Good luck,
>>
>>               -Helen/Aidan
>
>Thanks for that, especially the second one (I didn't get any problems with
>fuzziness, though you've got to give it a few moments to clear up when you
>zoom) That French hood is certainly interesting, if you zoom in to the area
>at the bottom of her ear you can see that the black band at the front is
>laid over an 'ordinary' French Hood coz you can just see the end of her
>jewelled blimmet sticking out from the bottom plus you can also see a white
>band going underneath her jaw. The other interesting point is I think the
>back blimmet might curve under at the back of her neck, which makes me
>wonder how far it extends towards the back of her neck and whether perhaps
>it helps to keep it on and maybe it extends all the way across. Elizabeth
>--------------------------------------------
>Elizabeth Walpole
>Canberra Australia
>ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
>http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/
>
>_______________________________________________
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>
>_______________________________________________
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Picture of Queen Mary I
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At 06:57 PM 4/6/2006, you wrote:
>I find it interesting that you can clearly see a cord/tie that goes under
>her chin to keep it on. I always thought they just balanced.


There are several images of women wearing French hoods where you can see 
the ties. I have a number of images on my French hood research site
http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/index.html

I have a few of Queen Mary as well, and the ones on the coins clearly show 
the ties. I need to scan a few more of her from my books, but I have a 
number of images online, and they are broken down by decade so you can see 
the progression.

Kimiko


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Am I the only one who goes shopping for new curtains thinking, "And when 
I get tired of these I can use them for costumes!" ?

LOL!


Dawn

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Subject: [h-cost] My copy of The Tudor Tailor arrived!
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My copy arrived here in Arkansas today. Excellent book!

Beth

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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Bliaut
Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2006 20:54:17 -0400
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AOL is not letting me access your photos, either.


Susan
"My treasures do not clink together or glitter,
they gleam in the sun and neigh in the night."
Bedouin proverb


On Apr 6, 2006, at 3:17 PM, Dawn wrote:

> MaddNancy@aol.com wrote:
>
>> I have uploaded the pictures to an album  named bliaut.  I hope  they  
>> help.  Most of the cathedral was built in the 12th and 13th   
>> centuries.
>>
>
>>   
>> http://pictures.aol.com/ap/myAlbums.do? 
>> albumId=48138.968.1144345462753.1
>
> I don't think AOL is allowing that album to be shared. I even logged  
> in with my AOL account and it won't let me see them.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] curtains
Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2006 20:55:38 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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NO !  Absolutely not!

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Apr 8, 2006, at 12:25 PM, Dawn wrote:

> Am I the only one who goes shopping for new curtains thinking, "And 
> when I get tired of these I can use them for costumes!" ?
>
> LOL!
>
>
> Dawn
>
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In a message dated 4/8/2006 8:56:23 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
pasovasz@aol.com writes:

Am I the  only one who goes shopping for new curtains thinking, "And 
> when I get  tired of these I can use them for costumes!" 


I just buy curtains to make costumes in the first place--Indian cotton  
sheers make great Regency-era dresses.
 
Ann Wass
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Elizabeth Walpole wrote:

> 
> 
> but it's really hard to get curtains without rubber backing (unless you 
> make them yourself but that's time you could be spending on garb)
> Elizabeth

Here in the US they come without rubber backings, and I saw quite a 
number of "velvets" and "brocades" at a home store Friday. Ended up with 
lovely (polyester) matelasse panels for the bedroom. No rubber backs. :)


Dawn


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No, but if I go to the goodwill store or salvation army store I look for
curtains thinking these might work well for a costume. The way my house
looks inside and out, just doesn't work well with formal or fancy that could
be used later for any costumes. 1970s style house.
De

-----Original Message-----
Am I the only one who goes shopping for new curtains thinking, "And when
I get tired of these I can use them for costumes!" ?

LOL!
Dawn


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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20060407011057.30771.qmail@web32911.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wool Disaster!!
Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2006 23:22:38 -0500
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I don't have any particularly new advice to give you, but don't give up 
(yet)... I've successfully un-shrunken a nice wool cardigan, by stretching 
it every few minutes as it dried, though it hadn't shrunk that 
much--actually it wound up a bit bigger than when I started.  Good luck!

-E House

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] curtains
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2006 2:25 AM
Subject: [h-cost] curtains


> Am I the only one who goes shopping for new curtains thinking, "And when I 
> get tired of these I can use them for costumes!" ?
>
> LOL!
> Dawn
>

but it's really hard to get curtains without rubber backing (unless you make 
them yourself but that's time you could be spending on garb)
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Wool Disaster!!
Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2006 18:32:09 -0700
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Someone once told me that if you put a shrunken garment into crčme rinse, it
will relax-but how much, I don't know.
Sharon, who as a stupid teenager washed a cashmere sweater, which shrank in
the body, in length and in the arms, in width, leaving me with a great
sweater for an orangutan

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Galadriel Lothlorien
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 6:11 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Wool Disaster!!


A cashmere(?) knit, silk-lined Valentino coat was
brought into my shop today.  A very sweet old lady's
maid had tried to wash it for her.  Suffice it to say,
the coat is now 15" shorter than the lining!!  It
hasn't been dried, and is still damp.

ANYONE have any suggestions?  We were thinking of
keeping it wet and trying to stretch it out as best we
can using some weights (chain?).  Obviously the
garment is a loss if it doesn't work so we're welcome
to try any method at all to make it any better...
because we can't make it much worse!  I'm just not
sure if the fact that it's knit makes it any more
possible to save.

Thanks,
--Rachel

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2006 16:52:04 +1000
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Subject: [h-cost] 16th century term for cartridge pleats
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Hiya everyone,
I just read a bit of info that says the term cartridge pleats has it's roots 
in the late 19th century so what is the correct term for the 16th century. I 
know it was gauging in the mid 19th century but do we have a record of what 
it was called prior to that?
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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Hi! Dawn
   
  I will put my hand up and admit that I am the same!  I have even bought a pair of second hand curtains to make into an Elizabethan costume - I had little to spend on fabric, as Christmas was coming up.  The same costume had what was a luxury bedding sheet as the skirt contrast!  I have a pair of red velvet curtains in my lounge which I am dying to cut up, but I won't as it belonged to my late Grandmother, though every so often when I open them, I imagine the Elizabethan I could make!
   
  All the best
  Jayne

		
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In a message dated 4/9/2006 3:46:38 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dresspattern@yahoo.co.uk writes:

I have a  pair of red velvet curtains in my lounge which I am dying to cut 
up, but I  won't as it belonged to my late Grandmother, though every so often 
when I open  them, I imagine the Elizabethan I could make!




Shades of Scarlett O'Hara!
 
Ann Wass
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Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2006 11:42:47 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:Curtains
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At 11:00 09/04/2006, you wrote:
>
>In a message dated 4/9/2006 3:46:38 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>dresspattern@yahoo.co.uk writes:
>
>I have a  pair of red velvet curtains in my lounge which I am dying to cut
>up, but I  won't as it belonged to my late Grandmother, though every so often
>when I open  them, I imagine the Elizabethan I could make!
>
>
>
>
>Shades of Scarlett O'Hara!


I have green velvet curtains, but I don't have the tassels - and it 
would be a very "mini" Scarlett! (And I have the cock feathers for the hat!)

Suzi


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Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2006 05:13:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] curtains
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Nope.
  My curtains are a 100% cotton brocade with a period 16'th century design. Once I get tired of them, they are going to get dyed and made into a Tudor dress.
   
  Tania

Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
  Am I the only one who goes shopping for new curtains thinking, "And when 
I get tired of these I can use them for costumes!" ?

LOL!


Dawn

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] curtains
Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2006 08:25:44 -0400
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What a great idea!  I am always having trouble finding cotton shear enough!
Dharma carries the right weight, but only in sarongs (72" lengths). Their
other cottons are quite wonderful, but heavier than one needs for a nice
Regency.

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 9:09 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] curtains


>
> In a message dated 4/8/2006 8:56:23 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> pasovasz@aol.com writes:
>
> Am I the  only one who goes shopping for new curtains thinking, "And
> > when I get  tired of these I can use them for costumes!"
>
>
> I just buy curtains to make costumes in the first place--Indian cotton
> sheers make great Regency-era dresses.
>
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] curtains
Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2006 08:34:05 -0400
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I have wanted to try these panels or coverlet for an 18thC petticoat.  I
have an older one cut (It was shabby and I suppose could have been used for
a quilt batt) but this is a little heavier than the contemporary
bedding/drapery.  It will be somewhat bulky I anticipate...
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 11:12 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] curtains


> Elizabeth Walpole wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > but it's really hard to get curtains without rubber backing (unless you
> > make them yourself but that's time you could be spending on garb)
> > Elizabeth
>
> Here in the US they come without rubber backings, and I saw quite a
> number of "velvets" and "brocades" at a home store Friday. Ended up with
> lovely (polyester) matelasse panels for the bedroom. No rubber backs. :)
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:Curtains
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Original Message ----- 
From: "Jayne Thomas" <dresspattern@yahoo.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2006 3:45 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re:Curtains


> Hi! Dawn
>
>  I will put my hand up and admit that I am the same!  I have even bought a 
> pair of second hand curtains to make into an Elizabethan costume - I had 
> little to spend on fabric, as Christmas was coming up.  The same costume 
> had what was a luxury bedding sheet as the skirt contrast!  I have a pair 
> of red velvet curtains in my lounge which I am dying to cut up, but I 
> won't as it belonged to my late Grandmother, though every so often when I 
> open them, I imagine the Elizabethan I could make!
>
>  All the best
>  Jayne


I have a red velvet bedspread that's going to magically transform into a 
German gown!

Dianne 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Patterns of Fashion" award
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The Costume Society offers a number of different awards/grants.  Some of 
which do not require being a student.

Sg
Robin Netherton wrote:

>Someone mentioned this to me:
>
>http://www.costumesociety.org.uk/newstuff/Awards/patterns.html
>
>Deadline April 30, but there are so many people here who use these books,
>the winning piece might be in an h-costumer's closet already.
>
>The hitch: If I read this right you have to be a student in a
>costume/fashion-related line of study (full or part time).
>
>--Robin
>
>_
>

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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:Curtains
Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2006 10:27:14 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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A friend had red curtains that were beginning to fade from the sun.  
She replaced them but couldn't part with the fabric.  Opportunity 
knocked.  She made a Wooden Soldier Costume for a Christmas Parade from 
them.

As one of our members says-"Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle 
Neatness" Carol H.

Susan

On Apr 9, 2006, at 3:45 AM, Jayne Thomas wrote:

> Hi! Dawn
>
>   I will put my hand up and admit that I am the same!  I have even 
> bought a pair of second hand curtains to make into an Elizabethan 
> costume - I had little to spend on fabric, as Christmas was coming up. 
>  The same costume had what was a luxury bedding sheet as the skirt 
> contrast!  I have a pair of red velvet curtains in my lounge which I 
> am dying to cut up, but I won't as it belonged to my late Grandmother, 
> though every so often when I open them, I imagine the Elizabethan I 
> could make!
>
>   All the best
>   Jayne
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Win a BlackBerry device from O2 with Yahoo!. Enter now.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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In a message dated 4/9/2006 8:23:58 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
rmitchell@washjeff.edu writes:

What a  great idea! 


Restoration Hardware and Pier One both had really nice Indian cotton panels  
a few years ago--sheer with a heavier thread woven in.  Four 84" panels  were 
plenty for a Regency dress.  They don't seem to carry them any  more.  Got a 
set from Target last year--they are okay, but not as good a  quality as the 
others (of course, they were a lot cheaper, too).  But I  guess quality varied 
significantly during the era, too.  Didn't Jane Austen  complain in one of her 
letters that if you buy the cheap muslin, it falls apart  in washing?
 
Ann Wass
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Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2006 07:57:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th century term for cartridge pleats
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> Hiya everyone,
> I just read a bit of info that says the term cartridge pleats has it's
> roots
> in the late 19th century so what is the correct term for the 16th century.
> I
> know it was gauging in the mid 19th century but do we have a record of
> what
> it was called prior to that?

Have you tried looking at the Juan de Alcega book?  There might be a clue
in there.

But my guess is that trying to name pleats is like trying to name
historical dress styles.  What we call a "Cranach" dress or a "gothic
fitted dress" was most likely just called a "dress" at the time it was
worn.

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
--Ghandi

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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:Curtains
Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2006 09:07:53 -0600
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Oh, man....suddenly, I'm overcome with the memory of watching a particular
Carol Burnett sketch, many years ago....
(For those of you on other shores who may not be familiar with her, Carol is
an *amazingly funny* American comedian, who used to have a sort of variety
show on t.v., with a wonderful ensemble cast.  At one point, they did a
"Gone with the Wind" sendup, and Carol wore a spoof of Scarlett's curtain
outfit....complete with curtain rod sticking out past her shoulder
blades....)
--Sue
----- Original Message -----
From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2006 4:00 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:Curtains


>
> In a message dated 4/9/2006 3:46:38 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> dresspattern@yahoo.co.uk writes:
>
> I have a  pair of red velvet curtains in my lounge which I am dying to cut
> up, but I  won't as it belonged to my late Grandmother, though every so
often
> when I open  them, I imagine the Elizabethan I could make!
>
>
>
>
> Shades of Scarlett O'Hara!
>
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "N Kipar" <marquesate@hotmail.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] "Patterns of Fashion" award
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Yes, you have to be a student and you have to be in Higher Education (not 
Further Education).

Nicole

--------------------
"If you think education is expensive, try ignorance."




>From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] "Patterns of Fashion" award
>Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2006 12:57:32 -0500 (CDT)
>
>
>Someone mentioned this to me:
>
>http://www.costumesociety.org.uk/newstuff/Awards/patterns.html
>
>Deadline April 30, but there are so many people here who use these books,
>the winning piece might be in an h-costumer's closet already.
>
>The hitch: If I read this right you have to be a student in a
>costume/fashion-related line of study (full or part time).
>
>--Robin
>
>_______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Me and Washington (O.T.mostly)
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Dear All

I am having a senior moment, and cannot find all my mail on visiting 
Washington. I have booked the Hotel Harrington, as recommended. We 
are planning a visit to the DAR Museum, as time is so 
limited.  However, I have had correspondence with several of you, and 
cannot find all the replies. Doh!

Could anyone who wrote, and hoped to be able to meet with us on 
Friday 23rd, and have supper at the hotel, please contact me off list 
to make firmer arrangements. If anyone else would like to visit too, 
please do get in touch. My husband and I will be happy to meet anyone 
from the list. We would love to be able to invite you as our guests, 
but I'm afraid it will be every person for him or herself.

Thank you - I now return you to your scheduled programme.

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] curtains
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I have 2 sets of silk curtains I got at the flea market just to make  
costumes. I don't know what palatial estate they came from but they are both  silk 
lined with silk and HUGE...lots of yardage. One is a light coffee brown  taffeta 
with a small orange and white stripe...lined in white. The other is a  chrome 
yellow Jacquard with a large scrolling pattern of leaves and  flowers...lined 
in off white.
 
They've been in a box for years....I must take them out and take them apart  
and have the pieces dry cleaned. Then DO SOMETHING WITH  THEM!
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Subject: [h-cost] Question Regrading Houndstooth Check
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I was wondering how far back in history one can document the
weaving/wearing of houndstooth check? 

Anybody have any information? Inquiring historical minds want to know!


Karen
Seamstrix
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] curtains
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Never mind going shopping - it's sitting in restaurants, or town halls, 
thinking "would they notice if I made away with those curtains?"

Jean


Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com> wrote
>NO !  Absolutely not!
>
>Susan
>
>"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
>too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
>Trail" by Louis L'Amour
>
>On Apr 8, 2006, at 12:25 PM, Dawn wrote:
>
>> Am I the only one who goes shopping for new curtains thinking, "And 
>>when I get tired of these I can use them for costumes!" ?
>>
>> LOL!
>>
>>
>> Dawn
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Sue wrote:

> Oh, man....suddenly, I'm overcome with the memory of watching a particular
> Carol Burnett sketch, many years ago....
> (For those of you on other shores who may not be familiar with her, Carol is
> an *amazingly funny* American comedian, who used to have a sort of variety
> show on t.v., with a wonderful ensemble cast.  At one point, they did a
> "Gone with the Wind" sendup, and Carol wore a spoof of Scarlett's curtain
> outfit....complete with curtain rod sticking out past her shoulder
> blades....)

And then she said, "I saw it in a window and I just couldn't resist."
HA HA HA HA HA

Gail Finke

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From: Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Curtains
Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2006 18:38:48 -0700
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A friend and were traveling a couple years ago when we walked into  
our hotel room.  We took one look at the curtains and looked at each  
other then at the curtains, then at each other.

I asked her, "Are you thinking what I'm thinking, Pinky?"
:D

It was a gorgeous red velvet with a gold floating thread in the  
traditional pomegranate pattern. yum!
Althea


On Apr 9, 2006, at 5:22 PM, Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

> Sue wrote:
>
>> Oh, man....suddenly, I'm overcome with the memory of watching a  
>> particular
>> Carol Burnett sketch, many years ago....
>> (For those of you on other shores who may not be familiar with  
>> her, Carol is
>> an *amazingly funny* American comedian, who used to have a sort of  
>> variety
>> show on t.v., with a wonderful ensemble cast.  At one point, they  
>> did a
>> "Gone with the Wind" sendup, and Carol wore a spoof of Scarlett's  
>> curtain
>> outfit....complete with curtain rod sticking out past her shoulder
>> blades....)
>
> And then she said, "I saw it in a window and I just couldn't resist."
> HA HA HA HA HA
>
> Gail Finke
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Althea Turner
althea@alfalfapress.com

"Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have  
company in their ignorance, they don't want people to look into  
anything; they want us to believe like peasants and not ask the  
reasons behind things."
William of Conches, 12th century


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Question Regarding Houndstooth Check
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If memory serves, I believe that houndstooth twill is in:
North European Textiles Until AD 1000 by Lise Bender Jorgensen. Aarhus Univ 
Pr (1992), Hardcover ISBN 8772884169

I can check for you tomorrow if needed.

Beth

At 01:00 PM 4/9/2006, you wrote:
>Message: 9
>Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2006 12:18:33 -0500
>From: Karen R Bergquist <penhalion@juno.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Question Regrading Houndstooth Check
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Message-ID: <20060409.121833.-1188455.0.penhalion@juno.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
>I was wondering how far back in history one can document the
>weaving/wearing of houndstooth check?
>
>Anybody have any information? Inquiring historical minds want to know!
>
>
>Karen
>Seamstrix

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Question Regarding Houndstooth Check
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On Sunday 09 April 2006 11:03 pm, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
> If memory serves, I believe that houndstooth twill is in:
> North European Textiles Until AD 1000 by Lise Bender Jorgensen. Aarhus Univ
> Pr (1992), Hardcover ISBN 8772884169
>
> I can check for you tomorrow if needed.

There's a nice picture of houndstooth in Margrethe Hald's "Ancient Danish 
Textiles" also.  The picture looks as though the check is in a contrasting 
color (it's a black and white photo), but the text claims that the effect 
comes from using threads of different spin directions instead (a kind of 
shadow check effect, I suppose).

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
--General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Curtain Dress
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And I believe it was designed by Bob Mackie, no less!!

Sandy

At 01:00 PM 4/9/2006, you wrote:

>Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2006 09:07:53 -0600
>From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:Curtains
>
>Oh, man....suddenly, I'm overcome with the memory of watching a particular
>Carol Burnett sketch, many years ago....(For those of you on other 
>shores who may not be familiar with her, Carol is an *amazingly 
>funny* American comedian, who used to have a sort of variety show on 
>t.v., with a wonderful ensemble cast.  At one point, they did a 
>"Gone with the Wind" sendup, and Carol wore a spoof of Scarlett's curtain
>outfit....complete with curtain rod sticking out past her shoulder blades....)
>--Sue

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Subject: [h-cost] Ruff directions
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I finally have all the materials for my son's
Frobisher garb together.

Does anybody have a tried and true method of making
ruffs that they can recommend?  I have found about 5
different methods at various sites online.  The one I
need to make should replicate the ruff in the portrait
of Martin Frobisher found here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martin_Frobisher

Any and all advice appreciated.

Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re:Curtains
Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2006 22:34:48 -0700
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Status: RO

And her line was something like, "I saw them in the window and I just
couldn't resist."

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sue Clemenger
Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2006 8:08 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:Curtains


Oh, man....suddenly, I'm overcome with the memory of watching a particular
Carol Burnett sketch, many years ago.... (For those of you on other shores
who may not be familiar with her, Carol is an *amazingly funny* American
comedian, who used to have a sort of variety show on t.v., with a wonderful
ensemble cast.  At one point, they did a "Gone with the Wind" sendup, and
Carol wore a spoof of Scarlett's curtain outfit....complete with curtain rod
sticking out past her shoulder
blades....)
--Sue
----- Original Message -----
From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2006 4:00 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:Curtains


>
> In a message dated 4/9/2006 3:46:38 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, 
> dresspattern@yahoo.co.uk writes:
>
> I have a  pair of red velvet curtains in my lounge which I am dying to 
> cut up, but I  won't as it belonged to my late Grandmother, though 
> every so
often
> when I open  them, I imagine the Elizabethan I could make!
>
>
>
>
> Shades of Scarlett O'Hara!
>
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2006 23:31:28 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ruff directions
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>The one I
>need to make should replicate the ruff in the portrait
>of Martin Frobisher found here:
>
>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martin_Frobisher

Where's the portrait?  I couldn't find it on the wiki page.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 9:07 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Henry VIII movie question


> Hey all,
>
> I am thinking of getting a movie, A Man For All Seasons 
> (http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0060665/), to watch while I am working on my 
> Henrician gown. Our Henry VIII faires are often set during the marriage 
> question. But I have never seen the movie. Is it worth getting? How is the 
> storyline? How good/bad are the costumes? Is my money better spent on a 
> different movie of a similar time frame?
>
> Thanks for any thoughts on this.
>
> Kimiko

Well I remember watching it a few years ago but I only remember bits (my 
friend who was watching it with me wasn't interested and distracted me) 
unfortunately it was before I started researching Tudor clothing so I can't 
give an opinion on the costumes. But an image search using the title turned 
up this page 
http://www.moviegoods.com/movie_product.asp?sku=149316&master_movie_id=2499&MGAID=U7JD1194 
they seem to have got the overall lines right but you can't see the details.
If you're interested in Tudor films I found a pretty comprehensive list here 
http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/Documents/TudorsMoviesTV.htm
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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Kathleen wrote:
> 
> 
> What a great idea!  I am always having trouble finding cotton shear enough!
> Dharma carries the right weight, but only in sarongs (72" lengths). Their
> other cottons are quite wonderful, but heavier than one needs for a nice
> Regency.

Have gotten a sample of their cotton lawn?  It is not quite sheer enough to read through, but it isn't far off.  

-Katie

-- 
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Status: RO

Cost Plus has nice cotton curtains.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of AnnBWass@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2006 7:48 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] curtains


 
In a message dated 4/9/2006 8:23:58 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
rmitchell@washjeff.edu writes:

What a  great idea! 


Restoration Hardware and Pier One both had really nice Indian cotton panels

a few years ago--sheer with a heavier thread woven in.  Four 84" panels
were 
plenty for a Regency dress.  They don't seem to carry them any  more.  Got a

set from Target last year--they are okay, but not as good a  quality as the 
others (of course, they were a lot cheaper, too).  But I  guess quality
varied 
significantly during the era, too.  Didn't Jane Austen  complain in one of
her 
letters that if you buy the cheap muslin, it falls apart  in washing?
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] curtains
Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2006 08:55:52 -0400
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I have used this one. It was the best that I could find for the project.
Bought the sarong at the same time and inquired how I might get a bolt of
That fabric.  The response was NA.  Sigh...
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Katie Lewis" <katie_lewis@lycos.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2006 3:04 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] curtains


> Kathleen wrote:
> >
> >
> > What a great idea!  I am always having trouble finding cotton shear
enough!
> > Dharma carries the right weight, but only in sarongs (72" lengths).
Their
> > other cottons are quite wonderful, but heavier than one needs for a nice
> > Regency.
>
> Have gotten a sample of their cotton lawn?  It is not quite sheer enough
to read through, but it isn't far off.
>
> -Katie
>
> -- 
> _______________________________________________
>
> Search for businesses by name, location, or phone number.  -Lycos Yellow
Pages
>
>
http://r.lycos.com/r/yp_emailfooter/http://yellowpages.lycos.com/default.asp?SRC=lycos10
>
>
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Henry VIII movie question
Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2006 08:07:12 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I loved the movie.  It is well worth watching.  Can't remember how the  
costumes were though.

Sylrog

On Apr 9, 2006, at 11:20 PM, Elizabeth Walpole wrote:

>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 9:07 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Henry VIII movie question
>
>
>> Hey all,
>>
>> I am thinking of getting a movie, A Man For All Seasons  
>> (http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0060665/), to watch while I am working  
>> on my Henrician gown. Our Henry VIII faires are often set during the  
>> marriage question. But I have never seen the movie. Is it worth  
>> getting? How is the storyline? How good/bad are the costumes? Is my  
>> money better spent on a different movie of a similar time frame?
>>
>> Thanks for any thoughts on this.
>>
>> Kimiko
>
> Well I remember watching it a few years ago but I only remember bits  
> (my friend who was watching it with me wasn't interested and  
> distracted me) unfortunately it was before I started researching Tudor  
> clothing so I can't give an opinion on the costumes. But an image  
> search using the title turned up this page  
> http://www.moviegoods.com/movie_product.asp? 
> sku=149316&master_movie_id=2499&MGAID=U7JD1194 they seem to have got  
> the overall lines right but you can't see the details.
> If you're interested in Tudor films I found a pretty comprehensive  
> list here http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/Documents/TudorsMoviesTV.htm
> Elizabeth
> --------------------------------------------
> Elizabeth Walpole
> Canberra Australia
> ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
> http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:Curtains
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A few years ago when I needed a mermaid costume, I looked at my
bedroom curtains, which needed replacing anyway, and had a Scarlett
O'Hara moment.  The fabric was blue with a fan shape pattern, which
when turned upside down created a perfect fishscale motif.  It became
a very effective fish tail skirt....

Katy

On 4/9/06, Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com> wrote:
> A friend had red curtains that were beginning to fade from the sun.
> She replaced them but couldn't part with the fabric.  Opportunity
> knocked.  She made a Wooden Soldier Costume for a Christmas Parade from
> them.
>
> As one of our members says-"Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle
> Neatness" Carol H.
>
> Susan
>
> On Apr 9, 2006, at 3:45 AM, Jayne Thomas wrote:
>
> > Hi! Dawn
> >
> >   I will put my hand up and admit that I am the same!  I have even
> > bought a pair of second hand curtains to make into an Elizabethan
> > costume - I had little to spend on fabric, as Christmas was coming up.
> >  The same costume had what was a luxury bedding sheet as the skirt
> > contrast!  I have a pair of red velvet curtains in my lounge which I
> > am dying to cut up, but I won't as it belonged to my late Grandmother,
> > though every so often when I open them, I imagine the Elizabethan I
> > could make!
> >
> >   All the best
> >   Jayne
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Win a BlackBerry device from O2 with Yahoo!. Enter now.
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
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>


--
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Jean Hunnisett Dress
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Status: RO

 Jame:

  When I did the Eleanor of Toledo dress in Janet Arnold for myself, I
doubled the size of the pattern to 1/4" scale first. I only dress dolls,
so this was a big project for me. Then I went to my fabric store,
checked all the costumes to find one or more patterns with pattern
piece(s) close to the Hunnisett diagrams. I then fitted the bodice
pieces of the two commercial patterns to me and then using the Hunnisett
diagrams as guide, altered and recut them using sew in interfacing(lies
much nicer on fabric than the commerical tissue paper. In some cases,
using commercial pattern pieces for fit, allowed me to keep some of the
grainlines and notches/balance marks.

 You may have some luck in enlarging the Hunisett bodice diagram which
is already larger than the usual 1/8=1" to roughly fit your daughter.

I would put your daughter in all undergarments she is to wear first.
However I did cheat on the Eleanor of Toledo dress(which I'm going to
alter to make more accurate). Because our Nebraska/Iowa Renfaires can be
hot and steamy and subject to sudden downpours, I built the Elizabethan
corset right into the bodice. The original dress laces on the side
backs, so this allows me to loosen/tighten the fit for weather and
weight loss/gain.  You could alter the 1569 dress bodice to allow for
this. I worked all the eyelets by hand using large jewerly jump rings on
either side of each hole made with an awl and covering rings and
reinforcing each hole with a button hole stitch. Time consuming but
worth it. But since your daughter is a growing girl, metal eyelets would
work. Also put grow tucks in the skirt, and pleat it to the waistband
deeply enough to allow for horizontal growth. Make the bodice separate
and alter the shoulder straps so they can be extended for growth, if you
wish.

Elizabethan clothes are great as they were designed to be in pieces to
mix and match. 

I hope this is a rewarding project for you both! Your daughter in bound
to become quite a little expert in knowing how many pieces of clothing
children "way back when" had to wear!

Cindy Abel

 
 Hi!
   
  I would like to make the 1569 Elizabethan dress (or something near as
possible!) that is illustrated on page 63 (the one in the middle of the
group) of 'Patterns for Women's Dress 1500-1800 for my nearly four year
daughter. Yes, I'm being very ambitious here!  The thing is, how would
scale the pattern (on page 68 onwards) to fit her?  Am I being a bit too
ambitious?!
   
  All the best!
  Jayne

		
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Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2006 10:32:50 EDT
Subject: [h-cost] Re:Curtains 
To: h-costume@indra.com
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My theatre studies exam costume was made out of two pairs of curtains from a 
charity shop.

Brown velvet and yellow brocade.

Cost three pounds a pair.

(Got extra marks for being 'cost aware').

Debbie



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Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2006 08:49:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ruff directions
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Should be right on that page on the righthand side. 
He's wearing a buttery tan outfit.  If for some reason
it still doesn't come up you could try the Google
image search.  It is the only full length portrait of
him.
Rebecca

--- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:

> 
> >The one I
> >need to make should replicate the ruff in the
> portrait
> >of Martin Frobisher found here:
> >
> >http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martin_Frobisher
> 
> Where's the portrait?  I couldn't find it on the
> wiki page.
> 
> 
>         CarolynKayta Barrows
> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>           www.FunStuft.com
> 
>               ///\\\\\
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> _______________________________________________
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Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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Subject: [h-cost] Dharma Trading wants fabric suggestions!
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Here's our chance, folks, to help Dharma Trading carry some really 
costume-worthy fabrics!
Michelle


"Expanding Our Fabric Collection
Attention fabric lovers!
We are continuing to expand our selection of fabrics aiming for a 
'plethora' of fabrics instead of our current 'lots and lots'. To that 
end, we are asking you, our most valued and esteemed customers (who are 
also very intelligent and shockingly good looking, by the way) to weigh 
in on what new fabrics you would like to see us add.
Wool fabrics? Bamboo fabrics? Fabrics woven from the back hair of a 
yeti, perhaps?
Whatever! Please send any suggestions to the following e-mail address 
and we will consider all your ideas.
fabricideas@dharmatrading.com"
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>Should be right on that page on the righthand side.
>He's wearing a buttery tan outfit.  If for some reason
>it still doesn't come up you could try the Google
>image search.  It is the only full length portrait of
>him.

With a gun in his hand, right?  I've seen the portrait, but couldn't get to 
it by the wiki page.

Conventional wisdom says to knife pleat the ruff material then like 
cartridge pleat it to the neck band piece.  This produces a "mill wheel" 
ruff, like the ones in the 16th century and painted by folks like Reubens, 
but does not produce a ruff like Frobisher wears.

The best example of Frobisher's kind of ruff is found in portraits of Mary, 
Queen of Scots.  In some of these you can see the same ruff from the side 
as well as from straight on to the edge, since the shirt with the ruff on 
it is worn open at the neck.  These Mary portraits show the ruff material 
gathered super-tightly at the inner edges and coaxed into the shape we 
recognize at the outer edges.  The inner edge of these ruffs is narrow, and 
you can see this inner-edge narrowness in some other portraits showing 
ruff-wearers.  Compare this inner-edge narrowness with the inner-edge 
thickness of the later ruffs and you'll see what I mean.

Compare also the way the artist paints the inside of the pleats of the 
ruff.  In the earlier ones the insides scrunch up to nothing, while in the 
later ones the insides make flat vertical pleats.

Compare also the angle at which the two kinds of ruff sit relative to the 
body, especially at the wrists.  The "mill-wheel" kinds sit perpendicular 
to their nearest body part, while the earlier ones sit at an angle to them.

Try the two methods out in sample pieces and compare them.  Also remember 
that these ruffs were held stiff as cardboard by the use of starch.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              ///\\\\\
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Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2006 13:19:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Leslie Mundy <LizzieM@rocketmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Wool Disaster!! 
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Status: RO

Hi. 

I had some luck with stretching out a wool knit
sweater that had inadvertently gone through the washer
and dryer.

Put it in a bath of warm salt water, then stretch it
out as best you can. Once it's stretched, block it and
let it dry. 

When you're stretching it, remember to stretch for
width as well as length. If you can find something
suitable, put some sort of stretcher (tubular) in the
sleeves so they get back their width during the
stretch. 

Good luck!

--Leslie


> Message: 7
> Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2006 18:10:57 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Galadriel Lothlorien
> <galadrielfinwe@yahoo.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] Wool Disaster!!
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Message-ID:
>
<20060407011057.30771.qmail@web32911.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
> 
> A cashmere(?) knit, silk-lined Valentino coat was
> brought into my shop today.  A very sweet old lady's
> maid had tried to wash it for her.  Suffice it to
> say, the coat is now 15" shorter than the lining!!  
> It hasn't been dried, and is still damp.
> 
> ANYONE have any suggestions?  We were thinking of
> keeping it wet and trying to stretch it out as best
> we can using some weights (chain?).  Obviously the
> garment is a loss if it doesn't work so we're
> welcome to try any method at all to make it any 
> better... because we can't make it much worse!  I'm 
> just not sure if the fact that it's knit makes it 
> any more possible to save.
> 
> Thanks,
> --Rachel
> 


Leslie Mundy, DCC  Office Hours: M-W-F Noon-5:00
John Carter Brown Library, Box 1894, Brown University
Providence, RI 

Just think...
"Somewhere a butterfly, dreaming that it is Chuang Chou,
flutters its wings and creates a distant hurricane."
http://NewMoon2000.tripod.com/oneway/indexnavigator.html

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ruff directions
Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2006 17:25:58 -0400
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Is that the ruff with the inner layer and outter layer? We had a discussion 
some time ago about how to make that special ruff. We all came to the 
conclusion that it took at least 3 layers of fabric. 2 lighter weight outer 
layers and 1 thinker inner layer. Make the usual ruff, then mold the lighter 
weight outer layers inward to form the details inside the larger ruff loops. 
Pulling the lighter weight fabric edge to the center created the small heart 
shaped deep-inside loops. That is as best I can describe how to do it... if 
that is the same ruff we talked about earlier.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "REBECCA BURCH" <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2006 11:49 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ruff directions


> Should be right on that page on the righthand side.
> He's wearing a buttery tan outfit.  If for some reason
> it still doesn't come up you could try the Google
> image search.  It is the only full length portrait of
> him.
> Rebecca
>
> --- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> >The one I
>> >need to make should replicate the ruff in the
>> portrait
>> >of Martin Frobisher found here:
>> >
>> >http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martin_Frobisher
>>
>> Where's the portrait?  I couldn't find it on the
>> wiki page.
>>
>>
>>         CarolynKayta Barrows
>> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>>           www.FunStuft.com
>>
>>               ///\\\\\
>>              ////-@@\\\
>>             ((((   7 )))
>>              )((  <> ))(
>>               * )   ( *
>>            /----\   /---\
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
> Rebecca Burch
> Center Valley Farm
> Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ruff directions
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It's here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Martin_Frobisher_by_Ketel.jpg

When the page came up, there was no image, but there was a link.

kate
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "REBECCA BURCH" <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2006 11:49 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ruff directions


> Should be right on that page on the righthand side. 
> He's wearing a buttery tan outfit.  If for some reason
> it still doesn't come up you could try the Google
> image search.  It is the only full length portrait of
> him.
> Rebecca
> 
> --- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:
> 
>> 
>> >The one I
>> >need to make should replicate the ruff in the
>> portrait
>> >of Martin Frobisher found here:
>> >
>> >http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martin_Frobisher
>> 
>> Where's the portrait?  I couldn't find it on the
>> wiki page.
>> 
>> 
>>         CarolynKayta Barrows
>> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>>           www.FunStuft.com
>> 
>>               ///\\\\\
>>              ////-@@\\\
>>             ((((   7 )))
>>              )((  <> ))(
>>               * )   ( *
>>            /----\   /---\
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> 
> 
> 
> Rebecca Burch
> Center Valley Farm
> Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Welt pocket wonders
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If you have ever been intimidated by making welt pockets, Threads issue 
122 has a solution.  I have tried many welt pocket techniques over the 
years, and this works beautifully.   It uses a silk organza facing and 
fabric glue (yes....).  Try it, you'll like it!  It completely takes the 
mystery and challenge away!



Sg
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Subject: [h-cost] need roommate for Hartford Symposium
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I will need someone to share a room. I will be there from May30, 31, June 1, 
2.
Please contact me if you have any leads.
Thank you,
Sue Shatto
Sue@VictorianMillinery.com
401 Fairview Ave.
Frederick, MD 21701
www.victorianmillinery.com
301-694-8950 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Ruff directions
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For a ruff that looks ok, but isn't made period, cartridge pleat grosgrain
ribbon onto a flat neckband. The ribbon is stiff enough to hold shape. You
may have to stitch the points where each loop touches another.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Carolyn Kayta Barrows
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2006 11:35 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ruff directions



>Should be right on that page on the righthand side.
>He's wearing a buttery tan outfit.  If for some reason
>it still doesn't come up you could try the Google
>image search.  It is the only full length portrait of
>him.

With a gun in his hand, right?  I've seen the portrait, but couldn't get to 
it by the wiki page.

Conventional wisdom says to knife pleat the ruff material then like 
cartridge pleat it to the neck band piece.  This produces a "mill wheel" 
ruff, like the ones in the 16th century and painted by folks like Reubens, 
but does not produce a ruff like Frobisher wears.

The best example of Frobisher's kind of ruff is found in portraits of Mary, 
Queen of Scots.  In some of these you can see the same ruff from the side 
as well as from straight on to the edge, since the shirt with the ruff on 
it is worn open at the neck.  These Mary portraits show the ruff material 
gathered super-tightly at the inner edges and coaxed into the shape we 
recognize at the outer edges.  The inner edge of these ruffs is narrow, and 
you can see this inner-edge narrowness in some other portraits showing 
ruff-wearers.  Compare this inner-edge narrowness with the inner-edge 
thickness of the later ruffs and you'll see what I mean.

Compare also the way the artist paints the inside of the pleats of the 
ruff.  In the earlier ones the insides scrunch up to nothing, while in the 
later ones the insides make flat vertical pleats.

Compare also the angle at which the two kinds of ruff sit relative to the 
body, especially at the wrists.  The "mill-wheel" kinds sit perpendicular 
to their nearest body part, while the earlier ones sit at an angle to them.

Try the two methods out in sample pieces and compare them.  Also remember 
that these ruffs were held stiff as cardboard by the use of starch.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: [h-cost] ideas on making body-shape suit or adding weight to an
	actress
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Recently we costumed for the play "A Little Princess."  One of the characters is a young girl with a bit of a weight problem.  She was superbly portrayed by a rather thin young girl.  We stuffed a bodystocking with fiberfill at first during rehearsals but it was so hot she nearly passed out and became very flushed.  So we tried having her wear three cotton teeshirts but that didn't work too well either.  We finally just used the fiberfill & stuffed her blouse, a fitted Victorian high-collared style, after she put it on to fill out the necessary areas.  That didn't work really either, because after every scene we had to readjust the fiberfill because it kept shifting & even falling out below the skirt.  She left puff-bunnies all over backstage but fortunately none fell out on stage --although in one of the final scenes she suddenly developed a "hernia" on her left side.
   
  Please --we may do this play again for the lower schools.  Can anyone give us any ideas on making a Mrs. Doubtfire-type removable bodyshape suit on a low budget that won't cause the young actress to expire with heat?
   
  Thanks for any & all suggestions.
   
  Blessings,
  Susannah

		
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> Recently we costumed for the play "A Little Princess."  One of the
> characters is a young girl with a bit of a weight problem.  She was
> superbly portrayed by a rather thin young girl.  We stuffed a bodystocking
> with fiberfill at first during rehearsals but it was so hot she nearly
> passed out and became very flushed.  So we tried having her wear three
> cotton teeshirts but that didn't work too well either.  We finally just
> used the fiberfill & stuffed her blouse, a fitted Victorian high-collared
> style, after she put it on to fill out the necessary areas.  That didn't
> work really either, because after every scene we had to readjust the
> fiberfill because it kept shifting & even falling out below the skirt.
> She left puff-bunnies all over backstage but fortunately none fell out on
> stage --although in one of the final scenes she suddenly developed a
> "hernia" on her left side.
>
>   Please --we may do this play again for the lower schools.  Can anyone
> give us any ideas on making a Mrs. Doubtfire-type removable bodyshape
> suit on a low budget that won't cause the young actress to expire with
> heat?
>
>   Thanks for any & all suggestions.
>
>   Blessings,
>   Susannah
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Love cheap thrills? Enjoy PC-to-Phone  calls to 30+ countries for just
> 2˘/min with Yahoo! Messenger with Voice.
> _______________________________________________
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>


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ruff directions
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Status: RO

Hi, All. For excellent ruff info, I regard Lisa Sinervo's site 
www.thrednedlestrete.com as being quite useful. She has done 
considerable research into creating a working setup for starching ruffs 
and has considerable knowledge as to their construction. I also know 
that Ninya and Jane have done so much work in the area that they would 
also be a great source for info. Between the two, I don't think you can 
go wrong...Cheers, Mike T.


>  
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ideas on making body-shape suit or adding weight to
	an	actress
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Status: RO

Hi. Was the issue the weight or the breathability of the garment? If 
weight, you can get inflatable bags from your local stationary supply 
(Staples, etc.), used for shipping padding, and make a bodyform where 
the bags are taped in. If you do this make sure none of the plastic is 
on her skin, it gets hot and sweaty. If the heat is an issue, remember 
that insulation results where there is a place for air to accumulate and 
warm. You can probably find some modern materials that are good at 
wicking out moisture (sweat), but heat, esp. under theatrical lights, is 
another thing. Best to do is have her rehearse in it to become 
acclimatized, and make sure she is in it as little as necessary. 
Handheld or table fans while offstage are helpful, as are cooling cloths 
(alcohol evaporates faster than water, BTW) and keep her head uncovered 
if at all possible. Clothing should be light colored to avoid absorbing 
heat radiation and, of course, lightweight natural materials are better 
than synthetics that do not breathe. Anything more will probably require 
a complex, expensive cooling system unless you can make some sort of 
balloon suit with a fan in it that both swells out the body and cools 
it...sort of being inside a Macy's Thanksgiving Day balloon. Hmmm, this 
might be workable, something to think about....Cheers, Mike T. (now 
thinking about computer fans and DC power sources, hehehehehehe!)


>  
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Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2006 23:42:14 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] ideas on making body-shape suit or adding weight to	an
	actress
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Status: RO

This is a tough one, but maybe cotton batting would work better because
cotton breathes, polyester does not. If you "build" your shape using a
cotton T-shirt as a base, layering your batting,to get the proper shape, it
won't shift much and you can make it look very realistic. It will be
flexible, also. Then tack all the together with large running stitches
through all the layers. Then put another (larger ) T shirt over all the
layers . tack again, and also stitch around arms, hem, neck to keep
everything closed-- and you have a 1 piece garment that she can put on over
her head. You could also split the back and add ties or hooks or velcro for
closures...

Just a thought.

Monica Spence

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Diana Habra
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2006 11:15 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ideas on making body-shape suit or adding weight
to an actress



> Recently we costumed for the play "A Little Princess."  One of the
> characters is a young girl with a bit of a weight problem.  She was
> superbly portrayed by a rather thin young girl.  We stuffed a bodystocking
> with fiberfill at first during rehearsals but it was so hot she nearly
> passed out and became very flushed.  So we tried having her wear three
> cotton teeshirts but that didn't work too well either.  We finally just
> used the fiberfill & stuffed her blouse, a fitted Victorian high-collared
> style, after she put it on to fill out the necessary areas.  That didn't
> work really either, because after every scene we had to readjust the
> fiberfill because it kept shifting & even falling out below the skirt.
> She left puff-bunnies all over backstage but fortunately none fell out on
> stage --although in one of the final scenes she suddenly developed a
> "hernia" on her left side.
>
>   Please --we may do this play again for the lower schools.  Can anyone
> give us any ideas on making a Mrs. Doubtfire-type removable bodyshape
> suit on a low budget that won't cause the young actress to expire with
> heat?
>
>   Thanks for any & all suggestions.
>
>   Blessings,
>   Susannah
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Love cheap thrills? Enjoy PC-to-Phone  calls to 30+ countries for just
> 2˘/min with Yahoo! Messenger with Voice.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
--Ghandi

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Kathleen wrote:

> Bought the sarong at the same time and inquired how I might get a bolt of
> That fabric.  The response was NA.  Sigh...

Coincidentally, I just got an email from Dharma asking for suggestions about what new fabrics people want to see, so it might be worthwhile to email them.

-Katie

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Subject: [h-cost] Steam Iron source
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Does anyone know where an American friend can buy a steam iron with a 
separate reservoir in the U.S. She says she has not been able to find 
one. Also, if there is a source, any recommendations as to brand. I 
have a Tefal bought here in the U.K. and it *loves* ironing linen 
(which is more than I do!)

Suzi (who really needs to find a new job - I hate ironing, and I hate 
machining!!)


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2006 11:36:33 +0200
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Hi,
Im trying to make the stays with the laced stomacher 1740-50. I found a 
lovely silk brocade for this in a period collour.
The pattern has not laced shouder pieces. Do you think they were just sewn 
finished?
Anyway here´s a link:
 http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/stays_1740.htm

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1740-50 stays.
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At 10:36 11/04/2006, you wrote:
>Hi,
>Im trying to make the stays with the laced 
>stomacher 1740-50. I found a lovely silk brocade for this in a period collour.
>The pattern has not laced shouder pieces. Do you 
>think they were just sewn finished?
>Anyway here´s a link:
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/stays_1740.htm
>
>Bjarne



These stays work fine if they are laced. See the 
ones on my web site from the same pattern. I 
don't know about these particular ones in real 
life, but all the other stays I have looked at are laced.

http://www.suziclarke.co.uk/viewimage.php?image=1750_corset.jpg

Suzi 



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1740-50 stays.
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Status: RO

It's difficult to tell from the line drawing.  Do you have access to a photo 
of the original stays?  I would hazzard to guess, that with the rounded tip 
to the strap, that the artist was looking at a laced strap, just didn't draw 
in the eyelet.

By the way, it looks fabulous!  Where do you get the wiessner boning? I'd 
love to try some for my next stays.

Kelly
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2006 6:36 AM
Subject: [h-cost] 1740-50 stays.


> Hi,
> Im trying to make the stays with the laced stomacher 1740-50. I found a 
> lovely silk brocade for this in a period collour.
> The pattern has not laced shouder pieces. Do you think they were just sewn 
> finished?
> Anyway here´s a link:
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/stays_1740.htm
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Steam Iron source
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2006 08:11:09 -0400
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Status: RO

Rowena used to have a small iron with a removable reservoir.  I know
Greenberg and Hammer carry the commercial steamer.  Also other
'Shop'supplies.  If she goes online she will find more sources than she has
time to search.  Perhaps starting with eBay?...
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2006 5:33 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Steam Iron source


>
> Does anyone know where an American friend can buy a steam iron with a
> separate reservoir in the U.S. She says she has not been able to find
> one. Also, if there is a source, any recommendations as to brand. I
> have a Tefal bought here in the U.K. and it *loves* ironing linen
> (which is more than I do!)
>
> Suzi (who really needs to find a new job - I hate ironing, and I hate
> machining!!)
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Steam Iron source
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There were 2 or 3 models advertised a couple of years ago in one of my 
quilting magazines, but for the life of me I can't remember at the 
moment which one.  But check Quilting Today that one seems to stick in 
my head.  Hope this helps. theresa

-----Original Message-----
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tue, 11 Apr 2006 10:33:08 +0100
Subject: [h-cost] Steam Iron source

   Does anyone know where an American friend can buy a steam iron with a 
separate reservoir in the U.S. She says she has not been able to find 
one. Also, if there is a source, any recommendations as to brand. I 
have a Tefal bought here in the U.K. and it *loves* ironing linen 
(which is more than I do!)

  Suzi (who really needs to find a new job - I hate ironing, and I hate 
machining!!)

 _______________________________________________
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

   
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Steam Iron source
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Greenberg and Hammer in New York city carry all kinds of tailoring equipment 
like irons and such.

Kelly
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2006 6:33 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Steam Iron source


>
> Does anyone know where an American friend can buy a steam iron with a 
> separate reservoir in the U.S. She says she has not been able to find one. 
> Also, if there is a source, any recommendations as to brand. I have a 
> Tefal bought here in the U.K. and it *loves* ironing linen (which is more 
> than I do!)
>
> Suzi (who really needs to find a new job - I hate ironing, and I hate 
> machining!!)
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
_______________________________________________
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References: <20060411052153.2AF373384B@ws7-3.us4.outblaze.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] curtains
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2006 08:05:38 -0400
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I got it too, but haven't had time to reply.Can do it later today!
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Katie Lewis" <katie_lewis@lycos.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2006 1:21 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] curtains


> Kathleen wrote:
>
> > Bought the sarong at the same time and inquired how I might get a bolt
of
> > That fabric.  The response was NA.  Sigh...
>
> Coincidentally, I just got an email from Dharma asking for suggestions
about what new fabrics people want to see, so it might be worthwhile to
email them.
>
> -Katie
>
> -- 
> _______________________________________________
>
> Search for businesses by name, location, or phone number.  -Lycos Yellow
Pages
>
>
http://r.lycos.com/r/yp_emailfooter/http://yellowpages.lycos.com/default.asp?SRC=lycos10
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] curtains
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Went to the Daarma site yesterday and asked for light weight wool, had 
to go to Hancocks to pick up tapestry needles for some needlepoint I 
was working on and they had some really nice 100% light weight wool, 
only a couple of pieces that could be period but since I hadn't bought 
new fabric in almost a month bought all they had that was period.  Talk 
about luck theresa

-----Original Message-----
From: Katie Lewis <katie_lewis@lycos.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tue, 11 Apr 2006 00:21:53 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] curtains

  Kathleen wrote:

> Bought the sarong at the same time and inquired how I might get a 
bolt of
> That fabric.  The response was NA.  Sigh...

Coincidentally, I just got an email from Dharma asking for suggestions 
about
what new fabrics people want to see, so it might be worthwhile to email 
them.

-Katie

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Steam Iron source
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2006 08:45:14 -0500
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I have a very nice Euro-Pro with separate reservoir. I got it at Jo-Anne
Fabrics. I've also seen them on line.

Kim 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2006 4:33 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Steam Iron source


Does anyone know where an American friend can buy a steam iron with a
separate reservoir in the U.S. She says she has not been able to find one.
Also, if there is a source, any recommendations as to brand. I have a Tefal
bought here in the U.K. and it *loves* ironing linen (which is more than I
do!)

Suzi (who really needs to find a new job - I hate ironing, and I hate
machining!!)


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1740-50 stays.
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "kelly grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2006 12:19 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1740-50 stays.


> It's difficult to tell from the line drawing.  Do you have access to a 
> photo of the original stays?  I would hazzard to guess, that with the 
> rounded tip to the strap, that the artist was looking at a laced strap, 
> just didn't draw in the eyelet.
>
> By the way, it looks fabulous!  Where do you get the wiessner boning? I'd 
> love to try some for my next stays.
>
> Kelly
Hi Kelly,
Well i ordered directly from the firm in Germany. You got to take 250 meters 
of it, but i wouldnt mind because i use it a lot.
I have heard that there are usa importers, but i dont know who, sorry.....

Bjarne 


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	<6.2.3.4.0.20060411110629.01e18a50@127.0.0.1>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1740-50 stays.
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2006 16:20:28 +0200
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Hi Suzi,
How nice to see it live!
Thanks for posting it, yours is very nice, lovely collours two.
Do you like the shape it gives?

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2006 12:08 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1740-50 stays.


> At 10:36 11/04/2006, you wrote:
>>Hi,
>>Im trying to make the stays with the laced stomacher 1740-50. I found a 
>>lovely silk brocade for this in a period collour.
>>The pattern has not laced shouder pieces. Do you think they were just sewn 
>>finished?
>>Anyway here´s a link:
>>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/stays_1740.htm
>>
>>Bjarne
>
>
>
> These stays work fine if they are laced. See the ones on my web site from 
> the same pattern. I don't know about these particular ones in real life, 
> but all the other stays I have looked at are laced.
>
> http://www.suziclarke.co.uk/viewimage.php?image=1750_corset.jpg
>
> Suzi
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2006 15:28:48 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1740-50 stays.
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At 15:20 11/04/2006, you wrote:
>Hi Suzi,
>How nice to see it live!
>Thanks for posting it, yours is very nice, lovely collours two.
>Do you like the shape it gives?


It works very well for the period. But it is very period specific and 
would not be suitable for all 18th century stuff. You can of course 
make it either with or without the separate stomacher.. I have a 
Hunnisett version of the pattern which is what I used, (not exactly 
as in her book,) and which is without the separate stomacher.

Suzi 


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Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2006 14:41:38 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1740-50 stays.
From: aquazoo@patriot.net
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Hi Bjarne,

     I'm trying to remember if I've seen any extant 18thC stays, with
straps, that were not tied.  Tying them seems to be the normal thing
to do.  Has anyone seen originals with solid straps?

     The pattern looks to me like it's two different pieces where the
strap meets the front, not sewn together.  I think they just did not
bother to draw in the eyelets for the lacing.

     Also it seems that when stays have lacing in the front and back,
women in the 18thC would lace the back when putting them on, and the
front would stay as is.  But that's not the way we do it today,
because if we have the convenience of the front lacing we want to use
it!

     Here is why the straps work better when laced: Generally we put the
stays on and they hang from the shoulders as we lace them up.  But
then I discover the shoulder straps are loose.  So I think the
purpose of the lacing on the straps was to snug them to a better fit
once the stays are laced.  The best way to wear them is to loosen the
straps a bit, lace the stays, and then tighten the straps.  And be
sure the lady puts on shoes and does her hair before putting on
stays!

     So definitely make the straps with a lacing, and a length that does
allows for some adjustment as Suzi did them.

     -Carol


> Hi,
> Im trying to make the stays with the laced stomacher 1740-50. I found a
> lovely silk brocade for this in a period collour.
> The pattern has not laced shouder pieces. Do you think they were just sewn
> finished?
> Anyway here´s a link:
>  http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/stays_1740.htm
>
> Bjarne

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1740-50 stays.
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2006 20:50:00 +0200
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Hello Carol,
Many thanks for your informations, ill keep this in mind, and ill pass along 
the tips to my client.
Oh yes i had another question. Do you think i should use a linnen binding 
for the tabs and the bustline, straps?
Thanks again.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <aquazoo@patriot.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2006 8:41 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1740-50 stays.


> Hi Bjarne,
>
>     I'm trying to remember if I've seen any extant 18thC stays, with
> straps, that were not tied.  Tying them seems to be the normal thing
> to do.  Has anyone seen originals with solid straps?
>
>     The pattern looks to me like it's two different pieces where the
> strap meets the front, not sewn together.  I think they just did not
> bother to draw in the eyelets for the lacing.
>
>     Also it seems that when stays have lacing in the front and back,
> women in the 18thC would lace the back when putting them on, and the
> front would stay as is.  But that's not the way we do it today,
> because if we have the convenience of the front lacing we want to use
> it!
>
>     Here is why the straps work better when laced: Generally we put the
> stays on and they hang from the shoulders as we lace them up.  But
> then I discover the shoulder straps are loose.  So I think the
> purpose of the lacing on the straps was to snug them to a better fit
> once the stays are laced.  The best way to wear them is to loosen the
> straps a bit, lace the stays, and then tighten the straps.  And be
> sure the lady puts on shoes and does her hair before putting on
> stays!
>
>     So definitely make the straps with a lacing, and a length that does
> allows for some adjustment as Suzi did them.
>
>     -Carol


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Subject: [h-cost] Henry VIII book
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There is a new book coming out later this year that sounds pretty good.

Beth Matney

Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII by Maria Hayward. Maney Pub. (2006). 
Clothbound with full colour dustjacket, ca 384 pages with ca 150 b&w and 30 
colour illustrations. ISBN 1 904350 70 4. 
http://www.maney.co.uk/search?fwaction=show&fwid=649

"Henry VIII used his wardrobe, and that of his family and household, as a 
way of expressing his wealth and magnificence. This book will encompass the 
first detailed study of male and female dress worn at the court of Henry 
VIII (1509-47) and will cover the dress of the king and his immediate 
family, the royal household and the broader court circle consisting of the 
nobility and clergy.

Evidence will be drawn primarily from the Great Wardrobe accounts, wardrobe 
warrants, and inventories, and it will be interpreted using evidence from 
narrative sources, paintings, drawings and surviving garments. Key areas 
for consideration will include the cut and construction of garments, 
materials and colours, the function of livery and the hierarchy of dress 
amongst the social elite, and the network of craftsmen and merchants 
working for the court. "

Maria Hayward (FSA, Reader in Textile Conservation, University of 
Southampton, UK) is also Assistant Editor of Costume - Journal of The 
Costume Society  

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] spiral lacing
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Hi,
Have any of you ever seen extra tapes sewed to the top and bottom center 
backs, for tying on if you use spiral lacing?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
To: Historical Costume List <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Wanting some pix 
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Greetings,

I am gathering together information for a new project
that some photography would greatly benefit from. 

I was hoping some sympathetic soul somewhere close to
Manchester Square, London would be willing to do a
quick (of course, if allowed) photo tour of the
Wallace Collection for a particular cast collar. I
have emailed Hertford House, and received no response
to my request for more information regarding this
item. I am at this point assuming the object (The
"Archer's Guild Collar" is the object of my interest)
is still in their collection and on display at
Hertford House.

If anyone in the London UK area is willing to take a
few photos, email me offlist, and I will give you more
details.

Thanks,

Kathy

Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert
(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules.

Its never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
For every beauty there is an eye somewhere to see it. For every truth there is an ear somewhere to hear it. For every love there is a heart somewhere to receive it.
-Ivan Panin

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Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2006 17:49:32 EDT
Subject: [h-cost] Steam Iron source
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In a message dated 4/11/06 8:52:08 PM GMT Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> (who really needs to find a new job - I hate ironing, and I hate 
> machining!!)

sorry - don't know source, but glad it's not just me then...:-)
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Subject: [h-cost] movie props and costumes on auction
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On ebay:

http://cgi3.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewUserPage&userid=premiereprops5

Includes items from Chicago, Dracula, Gangs of New York, Shakespeare in 
Love, and more.


Unfortunately a lot of it ends tonight, but you should be able to search 
completed auctions for items from this seller.


Dawn


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From: Kay Shelton <delasue@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] steam iron source in US
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I bought my EuroPro, which has a separate steam
reservoir, at Tuesday Morning.  I like it a lot!
Kay


Does anyone know where an American friend can buy a 
steam iron with a separate reservoir in the U.S. She
says she has not 
been able to find one. Also, if there is a source, any
recommendations 
as to brand. I have a Tefal bought here in the U.K.
and it *loves* 
ironing linen (which is more than I do!)

Suzi (who really needs to find a new job - I hate
ironing, and I hate 
machining!!)

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wanting some pix 
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At 21:35 11/04/2006, you wrote:
>Greetings,
>
>I am gathering together information for a new project
>that some photography would greatly benefit from.
>
>I was hoping some sympathetic soul somewhere close to
>Manchester Square, London would be willing to do a
>quick (of course, if allowed) photo tour of the
>Wallace Collection for a particular cast collar. I
>have emailed Hertford House, and received no response
>to my request for more information regarding this
>item. I am at this point assuming the object (The
>"Archer's Guild Collar" is the object of my interest)
>is still in their collection and on display at
>Hertford House.
>
>If anyone in the London UK area is willing to take a
>few photos, email me offlist, and I will give you more
>details.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Kathy
Kathy

The Wallace Collection does not allow photographs to be taken in any 
of its collection.  If it is Arms and Armour, you should contact the 
specific department. The curator was of A and A (may still be) David 
Edge, but I only have a personal address for him - sorry.

Suzi 


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Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 00:13:25 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] spiral lacing
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At 20:16 11/04/2006, you wrote:
>Hi,
>Have any of you ever seen extra tapes sewed to the top and bottom 
>center backs, for tying on if you use spiral lacing?
>
>Bjarne

Not in any extant corsets I've seen - certainly in museums they don't 
usually even bother to lace them properly.

Suzi 


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Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2006 15:22:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1740-50 stays.
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> Oh yes i had another question. Do you think i should use a linnen binding
> for the tabs and the bustline, straps?
> Thanks again.

     I think fully boned stays in such an elegant fabric deserve white kid
leather for a binding.

     -Carol

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Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2006 19:53:36 -0400
From: "Jeanine E. Swick" <jeanine@woollycat.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] curtains
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May be if every one on the list sent a similar request they'll think 
about it. 

    Jeanine

Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

>I got it too, but haven't had time to reply.Can do it later today!
>Kathleen
>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "Katie Lewis" <katie_lewis@lycos.com>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2006 1:21 AM
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] curtains
>
>
>  
>
>>Kathleen wrote:
>>
>>    
>>
>>>Bought the sarong at the same time and inquired how I might get a bolt
>>>      
>>>
>of
>  
>
>>>That fabric.  The response was NA.  Sigh...
>>>      
>>>
>>Coincidentally, I just got an email from Dharma asking for suggestions
>>    
>>
>about what new fabrics people want to see, so it might be worthwhile to
>email them.
>  
>
>>-Katie
>>
>>-- 
>>_______________________________________________
>>
>>Search for businesses by name, location, or phone number.  -Lycos Yellow
>>    
>>
>Pages
>  
>
>>    
>>
>http://r.lycos.com/r/yp_emailfooter/http://yellowpages.lycos.com/default.asp?SRC=lycos10
>  
>
>>_______________________________________________
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Susannah,
My Masters Thesis in Theatre Costume in Dec. 2000 was "The Emperor's New Clothes," set in ancient China, for children's theatre.  We made a  fat suit of foam sheeting for the actor who played the Emperor.  It was actually built by Kent Parker, who was the manager of the Costume Shop at that time.  He had lots of experience in making fantasy characters.  

If you'd like to take a look at the process and some pictures, my thesis is online.  I'm going to give you rather convoluted instructions on how to get there.  You can also get to it through UMI, but they make you email the pdf  to yourself.  It is 28 Mb since there are so many pictures.  If you can pull it up, the instructions below might actually be easier.  

Go to: 
http://www.libraries.wvu.edu 
click on MountainLynx Catalog in the top right corner
search by author: Hoover, Kathleen M.
click the link in the record
click again on the next record
click the web link at the bottom of the page
click "Access Document"
click "Hoover_Kathleen.pdf
the section on the Fat Suit starts on page 253 
(there are some messages about missing fonts, but if you just click OK, it'll come up)
There are embedded pictures in the text or you can scroll to all the pictures in the appendix at the end.

*I realize we used a regular-sized college-age male actor, who could better withstand the heat than a young, thin girl,  but here's what we did to help him.  He wore a cotton flannel "jumpsuit" as the innermost layer, and, since the fat suit was meant to make him look quite LARGE, there was some air space between the flannel and the foam.  We also had water and electric fans ready backstage  whenever he came off.  He had costume changes to go over the fat suit, and of course he appeared (nearly) naked in the last scene.  And while it *was* hot to wear, it wasn't unbearable.

I hope this helps you,
Kathy Hoover


>>> susannaheanes@yahoo.com 04/10/06 11:04 PM >>>
Recently we costumed for the play "A Little Princess."  One of the characters is a young girl with a bit of a weight problem.  She was superbly portrayed by a rather thin young girl.  We stuffed a bodystocking with fiberfill at first during rehearsals but it was so hot she nearly passed out and became very flushed.  So we tried having her wear three cotton teeshirts but that didn't work too well either.  We finally just used the fiberfill & stuffed her blouse, a fitted Victorian high-collared style, after she put it on to fill out the necessary areas.  That didn't work really either, because after every scene we had to readjust the fiberfill because it kept shifting & even falling out below the skirt.  She left puff-bunnies all over backstage but fortunately none fell out on stage --although in one of the final scenes she suddenly developed a "hernia" on her left side.
   
  Please --we may do this play again for the lower schools.  Can anyone give us any ideas on making a Mrs. Doubtfire-type removable bodyshape suit on a low budget that won't cause the young actress to expire with heat?
   
  Thanks for any & all suggestions.
   
  Blessings,
  Susannah

		
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Subject: [h-cost] Steam Iron source
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Suzi (who really needs to find a new job - I hate ironing, and I hate 
machining!!)

ps - meant glad it's not just me that feels like that :-)))
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Steam Iron source
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At 02:33 AM 4/11/2006, you wrote:

>Does anyone know where an American friend can buy a steam iron with a 
>separate reservoir in the U.S. She says she has not been able to find one. 
>Also, if there is a source, any recommendations as to brand. I have a 
>Tefal bought here in the U.K. and it *loves* ironing linen (which is more 
>than I do!)
>
>Suzi (who really needs to find a new job - I hate ironing, and I hate 
>machining!!)


I have heard of Euro-Pro and Rowenta that carries a separate tank. I plan 
on getting the Rowenta, as I have heard better reviews on that particular 
brand from a few of my friends and fiber arts teachers.

Doing a google search, I am finding two different model numbers:
ROWENTA DG-980 Expert Steam Generator
Rowenta DG-580 Steam Generator ("Does not have the removable water tank for 
refilling while ironing like the Rowenta DG-980 does.")

Looking at Allbrands site, they have several different steam irons with 
tanks at different price marks and quality, from home use to pro use.
http://www.allbrands.com/products/abc0083.html

hth,

Kimiko


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Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 02:29:20 +0000
From: rwfranz <rwfranz@hotpop.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] steam iron source in US
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JoAnn's? Sometimes Hancock's? They carry the Rowenta version.

http://www.joann.com/catalog.jhtml?CATID=95070&PRODID=70935&source=search
Right now it's on sale.

I don't have one of those yet, and am not really considering it right 
now, so cannot comment on how well it works.

Roger

Kay Shelton wrote:

>I bought my EuroPro, which has a separate steam
>reservoir, at Tuesday Morning.  I like it a lot!
>Kay
>
>
>Does anyone know where an American friend can buy a 
>steam iron with a separate reservoir in the U.S. She
>says she has not 
>been able to find one. Also, if there is a source, any
>recommendations 
>as to brand. I have a Tefal bought here in the U.K.
>and it *loves* 
>ironing linen (which is more than I do!)
>
>Suzi (who really needs to find a new job - I hate
>ironing, and I hate 
>machining!!)
>
>__________________________________________________
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] ideas on making body-shape suit or adding weight to
	anactress
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 02:43:57 -0700
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You could use those air filled plastic bladders they use as filler for
packages. They are very lightweight, and if you keep a layer of cotton
between the body and the bladders, it should be ok. I just got some today in
my box from Amazon. You could blow up zip lock bags and get the same
effect-more sizes, too. They're so lightweight you can just use gaffers tape
to hold them in place. Plus they're super cheap.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of susannah eanes
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2006 8:04 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] ideas on making body-shape suit or adding weight to
anactress


Recently we costumed for the play "A Little Princess."  One of the
characters is a young girl with a bit of a weight problem.  She was superbly
portrayed by a rather thin young girl.  We stuffed a bodystocking with
fiberfill at first during rehearsals but it was so hot she nearly passed out
and became very flushed.  So we tried having her wear three cotton teeshirts
but that didn't work too well either.  We finally just used the fiberfill &
stuffed her blouse, a fitted Victorian high-collared style, after she put it
on to fill out the necessary areas.  That didn't work really either, because
after every scene we had to readjust the fiberfill because it kept shifting
& even falling out below the skirt.  She left puff-bunnies all over
backstage but fortunately none fell out on stage --although in one of the
final scenes she suddenly developed a "hernia" on her left side.
   
  Please --we may do this play again for the lower schools.  Can anyone give
us any ideas on making a Mrs. Doubtfire-type removable bodyshape suit on a
low budget that won't cause the young actress to expire with heat?
   
  Thanks for any & all suggestions.
   
  Blessings,
  Susannah

		
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Hi,
Carol suggested me to use kid skin on the binding of the stays i make. Only 
i dont know what that is.
Is it goat skin?

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ideas on making body-shape suit or adding weight to an
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In a message dated 4/11/2006 8:11:49 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
khoover@wvu.edu writes:

We made a  fat suit of foam sheeting for the actor who played the  Emperor. 


When I worked at the Washington Shakespeare Theatre, we also made a foam  
suit for Falstaff.  I didn't mention it originally because the poster said  she 
needed something cheap, and the foam isn't!  It is the dark gray foam  
generally used, I believe, for HVAC purposes, and it was something like $100 a  sheet 
then, over 10 years ago.  I also can't attest to how comfortable it  was for 
the actor to wear, but I know it is very lightweight.
 
Ann Wass
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From: stilskin@netspace.net.au
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kid skin
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Kid skin is very soft, very supple, has a little stretch. You get it from 
children,

-C.

 kid skin
> i dont know what that is.
> Is it goat skin?



------------------------------------------------------------
This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] kid skin
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Gosh if that is the case, ill have to skip it dont i?

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 12, 2006 2:48 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kid skin


> Kid skin is very soft, very supple, has a little stretch. You get it from
> children,
>
> -C.
>
> kid skin
>> i dont know what that is.
>> Is it goat skin?
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au
>
> _______________________________________________
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> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Steam Iron source
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 13:09:27 +0000
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Walmart has one and it's on their webpage, too...I tried to send the info in an email I sent yesterday, but my email didn't post...

Elena/Gia

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Debloughcostumes@aol.com 

> 
> Suzi (who really needs to find a new job - I hate ironing, and I hate 
> machining!!) 
> 
> ps - meant glad it's not just me that feels like that :-))) 
> _______________________________________________ 
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Is it like washing leather?

Bjarne 





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

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Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 09:15:59 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Steam Iron source
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I use the Rowenta iron with the separate reservoir and it is fabulous!
Monica Spence

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Kimiko Small
Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2006 10:01 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Steam Iron source


At 02:33 AM 4/11/2006, you wrote:

>Does anyone know where an American friend can buy a steam iron with a
>separate reservoir in the U.S. She says she has not been able to find one.
>Also, if there is a source, any recommendations as to brand. I have a
>Tefal bought here in the U.K. and it *loves* ironing linen (which is more
>than I do!)
>
>Suzi (who really needs to find a new job - I hate ironing, and I hate
>machining!!)


I have heard of Euro-Pro and Rowenta that carries a separate tank. I plan
on getting the Rowenta, as I have heard better reviews on that particular
brand from a few of my friends and fiber arts teachers.

Doing a google search, I am finding two different model numbers:
ROWENTA DG-980 Expert Steam Generator
Rowenta DG-580 Steam Generator ("Does not have the removable water tank for
refilling while ironing like the Rowenta DG-980 does.")

Looking at Allbrands site, they have several different steam irons with
tanks at different price marks and quality, from home use to pro use.
http://www.allbrands.com/products/abc0083.html

hth,

Kimiko


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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] kid skin
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"Kid gloves" were commonly worn with smart clothing in the 19th century. A kid is a young goat.

We also have a saying "to handle something/someone with kid gloves" meaning very carefully or tactfully, kid gloves being thinner and more supple than ordinary leather ones.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor


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Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 14:34:56 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kid skin
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At 14:07 12/04/2006, you wrote:
>Gosh if that is the case, ill have to skip it dont i?
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Wednesday, April 12, 2006 2:48 PM
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] kid skin
>
>
>>Kid skin is very soft, very supple, has a little stretch. You get it from
>>children,
>>
>>-C.


Bjarne

Many extant corsets use chamois leather, like the leather you can use 
to wash a car with. There is often a small piece, about an inch deep 
inside and out, (sort of crescent shaped) under the arm towards the 
front armscye, to prevent chafing. The 178-0s corset from Hunnisett 
had this, and it made a lot of difference - no rubbing. Once upon a 
time that corset fitted me, and was soooo comfortable!

Suzi 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] kid skin
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*sigh*
Bjarne, the original poster was either teasing you or ignorant, and my bet's
on the teasing.
"Kid skin" is the skin of young, immature goats.  A reasonable substitute
might be chamois, if you can find it.  We can buy it here in the US in the
automotive care section of some stores, since it's used as a "cloth" with
which to dry or polish cars.  It's a thin, flexible, and relatively
inexpensive leather.  I've got some in my stash for the binding of a 16th
century corset, and for a trial pair of gloves, if I ever get my head out of
the 14th century and back to the 16th.....
--Sue in Montana (it's Spring!)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 12, 2006 7:07 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kid skin


> Gosh if that is the case, ill have to skip it dont i?
>
> Bjarne
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 12, 2006 2:48 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] kid skin
>
>
> > Kid skin is very soft, very supple, has a little stretch. You get it
from
> > children,
> >
> > -C.
> >
> > kid skin
> >> i dont know what that is.
> >> Is it goat skin?


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In a message dated 4/12/2006 9:36:06 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

Many  extant corsets use chamois leather, like the leather you can use 
to wash a  car with. There is often a small piece, about an inch deep 
inside and out,  (sort of crescent shaped) under the arm towards the 
front armscye, to  prevent chafing.


***************
 
I've also seen an early 19th century waistcoat with a strip of chamois  
[about maybe 3/4 of an inch wide] lining the bottom of the fronts.
 
The shirt Daniel Day-Lewis wears in "Last of the Mohicans" is of chamois  
leather.
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Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 10:46:19 -0400
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] ideas on making body-shape suit or adding weight to
	anactress
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Quoting "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>:

> You could use those air filled plastic bladders they use as filler for
> packages. They are very lightweight, and if you keep a layer of cotton
> between the body and the bladders, it should be ok. I just got some today in
> my box from Amazon. You could blow up zip lock bags and get the same
> effect-more sizes, too. They're so lightweight you can just use gaffers tape
> to hold them in place. Plus they're super cheap.

But wouldn't all that plastic be rather *hot*?

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 11:08:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kid skin
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> In a message dated 4/12/2006 9:36:06 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:
>
> Many  extant corsets use chamois leather, like the leather you can use
> to wash a  car with. There is often a small piece, about an inch deep
> inside and out,  (sort of crescent shaped) under the arm towards the
> front armscye, to  prevent chafing.


     I've heard about using a wider piece of leather under the arms,
although I haven't seen the originals with it.  The extant stays I've
seen have a thin white leather for binding, with a smooth surface. 
The chamois that I've seen is yellow, and has a suede-like surface. 
I know people like to use chamois because they can find it easily and
it's thin (nicer for hand stitching).  But I would like to hear more
about the extant stays that use chamois leather for binding, and also
those with the underarm reinforcement.  Where are they?  How often do
those features show up in extant stays?

     Or do you mean something different for chamois - is it available
white and with a smooth surface?

     -Carol

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Apr 12 12:24:27 2006
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Thread-Topic: Innocent Traitor(fiction)by Alison Weir
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Subject: [h-cost] Innocent Traitor(fiction)by Alison Weir
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Oh, darn "Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII" yet another book from
the other side of the pond I just have to have!  And Amazon.uk doesn't
even list it yet on their site!  Double darn!
 
Just got from Amazon.uk, my preordered copy of Innocent Traitor, the
first novel by Alison Weir. It is based on the life of Lady Jane Grey,
Nine Days' Queen of England. No U.S. publication date as yet for us
Tudor fanatics on the west side of the pond.

I only have read the first two chapters. So far it is by multiple
narrators recording in first person present tense. So far the narrators
are Jane herself, her mother, Frances Brandon, and Queen Jane Seymour.
Interesting format. It will be interesting to see how Weir as a
historian sticks to history.

On the cover is a photograph of a girl dressed in a close approximation
of the ensemble worn by young Princess Elizabeth(crimson gown portrait).
We purists may be quick to spot that the girl has blonde, not auburn
hair, and the sleeves of her gown,(all layers)are less structured and
more droopy at worst, and seem more earlier 16th century at best, but at
least it is serious cover art, including an overprint of Jane's actual
handwriting, rather than the historical romance cover art which is often
snicker-worthy!

Cindy Abel

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Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 17:24:15 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kid skin
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At 16:08 12/04/2006, you wrote:
> > In a message dated 4/12/2006 9:36:06 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> > suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:
> >
> > Many  extant corsets use chamois leather, like the leather you can use
> > to wash a  car with. There is often a small piece, about an inch deep
> > inside and out,  (sort of crescent shaped) under the arm towards the
> > front armscye, to  prevent chafing.
>
>
>      I've heard about using a wider piece of leather under the arms,
>although I haven't seen the originals with it.  The extant stays I've
>seen have a thin white leather for binding, with a smooth surface.
>The chamois that I've seen is yellow, and has a suede-like surface.
>I know people like to use chamois because they can find it easily and
>it's thin (nicer for hand stitching).  But I would like to hear more
>about the extant stays that use chamois leather for binding, and also
>those with the underarm reinforcement.  Where are they?  How often do
>those features show up in extant stays?
>
>      Or do you mean something different for chamois - is it available
>white and with a smooth surface?


The stays that I wore belonged to Jean Hunnisett and were sold some 
years ago. If I  had realised they were for sale I might have bid for 
them. I will look through my photos of originals and see whether the 
chamois shows up in any of them. Probably that chamois ones will be 
the ones I couldn't photo!

Suzi


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what about theexpandingspray foam 1 can would be more than enough and it can be shaped and molded to be most anything you need theresa 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: AnnBWass@aol.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 05:58:08 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ideas on making body-shape suit or adding weight to an actress


 
In a message dated 4/11/2006 8:11:49 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
khoover@wvu.edu writes:

We made a  fat suit of foam sheeting for the actor who played the  Emperor. 


When I worked at the Washington Shakespeare Theatre, we also made a foam  
suit for Falstaff.  I didn't mention it originally because the poster said  she 
needed something cheap, and the foam isn't!  It is the dark gray foam  
generally used, I believe, for HVAC purposes, and it was something like $100 a  
sheet 
then, over 10 years ago.  I also can't attest to how comfortable it  was for 
the actor to wear, but I know it is very lightweight.
 
Ann Wass
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I can feel for you it has only been in the last year or so that I have had to admit if I'm going to sew I have to iron , seams open, and all that other stuff that makes your work look right. but I still don't iron anything that is complete it goes to the professionals, or at least the lady down the street that seems to like to iron.  I think she is a bit weird but then I dress up funny and shoot a bow and arrow so who am I to say who is weird. theresa
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Debloughcostumes@aol.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Tue, 11 Apr 2006 21:20:00 EDT
Subject: [h-cost] Steam Iron source



Suzi (who really needs to find a new job - I hate ironing, and I hate 
machining!!)

ps - meant glad it's not just me that feels like that :-)))
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I have posted my pictures of the statue with the bliaut from Angers to  
Flickr as well as some from Chartres, also with bliaut.  Additionally in  the 
Chartres set are pictures I took of the St. Louis shirt in Notre Dame.   There is 
also a set of pictures from the Costume Museum in Bath.
 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/maddnancyphotos/
 
Nancy
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Subject: [h-cost] girdle?  was:] Photos
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Just recently a friend came up to me and asked how the girdle was made  with
a bliaut as she was going to make it for her daughter. She was not meaning
the belt but the section of horizontal lines between the hips and just under
the breast. Her two sources for this being a separate piece from the
dress/bliaut is "The Encyclopedia of historic costume" and a manuscript
showing it in a different color.
When I tried to inform her that usually that area is a part of the dress she
promptly said well I'm not trying to be an authenticity nazi my daughter
likes it and she's of an age that she wants to show off her figure.
So my question, just for my knowledge, is there docs on the horizontal lines
on the bliaut ever being a separate piece from the garment?
-----Original Message-----
http://www.flickr.com/photos/maddnancyphotos/

Nancy


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There are many, many theories about bliauts.  I have a few myself. 
However just to stick with the question...  is there docs on the
horizontal lines on the bliaut ever being a separate piece from the
garment?

Some say yes. Some say no.   I used to be in the "probably no, but it
is vaguely possible" camp... until Nancy's photos showed me something
new.

look at the photo called PDRM0061in the Chartres collection.  Look at
the belt knot, then look just above the belt knot.  There you will see
a repeating decorative pattern, that resembles trim, either woven or
embroidered.  Now... notice that the "trim" appears to lie flat and
follow the curve of the body,  lines above it run in the horizontal
direction, lines below it run vertically.

To me this is really starting to suggest a separate layer.  Could be. 
Can I be positive, not yet, but I am intrigued.

Could this be the "corsetum" mentioned in the English inventories of
the early 1300s, which was fashionably "behind the times" -  or an
ancestor of that garment?   Are the two even linked at all?

Some folks might postulate that the trim is a product or a decoration
to highlight construction of the garment.  Covering the joining of a
bodice to a skirt...   Personally I find that theory to be too
speculative for me, and not in keeping with examples of garment
shaping of the day.   But some people do advocate that style of
construction.

I'm going to go back to pondering this question... but I am
considering a move to the "possible, quite possible"  camp on this
question.

Mari  /  Bridgette

> http://www.flickr.com/photos/maddnancyphotos/
>
> Nancy

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Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 11:27:02 -0700
From: Elizabeth Young <lizyoung@fenris.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Steam Iron source
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Kimiko Small wrote in part:
> At 02:33 AM 4/11/2006, you Suzi wrote:
> 
>> Does anyone know where an American friend can buy a steam iron with a 
>> separate reservoir in the U.S.
> 
> I have heard of Euro-Pro and Rowenta that carries a separate tank. I 
> plan on getting the Rowenta, as I have heard better reviews on that 
> particular brand from a few of my friends and fiber arts teachers.
> 
> Doing a google search, I am finding two different model numbers:
> ROWENTA DG-980 Expert Steam Generator
> Rowenta DG-580 Steam Generator ("Does not have the removable water tank 
> for refilling while ironing like the Rowenta DG-980 does.")
> 
> Looking at Allbrands site, they have several different steam irons with 
> tanks at different price marks and quality, from home use to pro use.
> http://www.allbrands.com/products/abc0083.html

I got my Rowenta dg-980 through the allbrands site.
No problems ordering, fast delivery, and I love the iron.

liz young

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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] girdle?  was:] Photos
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Quoting otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>:

> Just recently a friend came up to me and asked how the girdle was made  with
> a bliaut as she was going to make it for her daughter. She was not meaning
> the belt but the section of horizontal lines between the hips and just under
> the breast. Her two sources for this being a separate piece from the
> dress/bliaut is "The Encyclopedia of historic costume" and a manuscript
> showing it in a different color.

Do you have any additional information on The Manuscript?  I'd *really*
like to see that (as would a number of other folks, I"m sure!)

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] girdle? was:] Photos
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Quoting Marie Stewart <maricelt@gmail.com>:

> There are many, many theories about bliauts.  I have a few myself.
> However just to stick with the question...  is there docs on the
> horizontal lines on the bliaut ever being a separate piece from the
> garment?
>
> Some say yes. Some say no.   I used to be in the "probably no, but it
> is vaguely possible" camp... until Nancy's photos showed me something
> new.
>
> look at the photo called PDRM0061in the Chartres collection.  Look at
> the belt knot, then look just above the belt knot.  There you will see
> a repeating decorative pattern, that resembles trim, either woven or
> embroidered.  Now... notice that the "trim" appears to lie flat and
> follow the curve of the body,  lines above it run in the horizontal
> direction, lines below it run vertically.

You can also see this line of trip just above the belt on some statues
from St. Loup de Naud.  This is a large scan (ca. 1 MB in size) so that
you can see the details quite nicely.

http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Paintings/stLoupDeNaud_LeftPortal-detai2l.jpg
or
http://tinyurl.com/6qse5

The other thing that is telling to me is the "knife-pleats."  Look at
how they disappear behind the neckline trim ... look at how they
"reappear" out from under the wide trim above the belt.  IMO, this is
the source of the garments that we see in later symbolic art where the
woman has on a hip-length "vest" or "corsage" or whatever you want to
call it.

>
> To me this is really starting to suggest a separate layer.  Could be.
> Can I be positive, not yet, but I am intrigued.
>
> Could this be the "corsetum" mentioned in the English inventories of
> the early 1300s, which was fashionably "behind the times" -  or an
> ancestor of that garment?   Are the two even linked at all?

Well, wasn't France leading the Fashion World (tm) at that time?  I
don't have a problem with the English lagging behind.

>
> Some folks might postulate that the trim is a product or a decoration
> to highlight construction of the garment.  Covering the joining of a
> bodice to a skirt...   Personally I find that theory to be too
> speculative for me, and not in keeping with examples of garment
> shaping of the day.   But some people do advocate that style of
> construction.

Yeah, I think that's a little too sketchy for me too.

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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After I sent the email I found the Chartres statue you speak of and
remembered that when I was once, long ago researching bliauts I came across
this statue and saw the "corset/girdle".
Old timers strikes again. :P

De

-----Original Message-----
There are many, many theories about bliauts.  I have a few myself.
However just to stick with the question...  is there docs on the
horizontal lines on the bliaut ever being a separate piece from the
garment?

Some say yes. Some say no.   I used to be in the "probably no, but it
is vaguely possible" camp... until Nancy's photos showed me something
new.

look at the photo called PDRM0061in the Chartres collection.  Look at
the belt knot, then look just above the belt knot.  There you will see
a repeating decorative pattern, that resembles trim, either woven or
embroidered.  Now... notice that the "trim" appears to lie flat and
follow the curve of the body,  lines above it run in the horizontal
direction, lines below it run vertically.

snip
I'm going to go back to pondering this question... but I am
considering a move to the "possible, quite possible"  camp on this
question.

Mari  /  Bridgette

> http://www.flickr.com/photos/maddnancyphotos/
>
> Nancy


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] girdle? was:] Photos
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 14:23:32 -0500
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This one seems a bit different from the Chartres.
In the Chartres it seems to stops under the bust but in this one it looks as
if it is a bodice that goes to the hips and the skirt is a part of the
garment you see at the neck.
A sort of "jacket" over the gathered garment and laced to creat the
horizonatl lines at the waist.

De

-----Original Message-----
You can also see this line of trip just above the belt on some statues
from St. Loup de Naud.  This is a large scan (ca. 1 MB in size) so that
you can see the details quite nicely.

http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Paintings/stLoupDeNaud_LeftPortal-deta
i2l.jpg
or
http://tinyurl.com/6qse5

The other thing that is telling to me is the "knife-pleats."  Look at
how they disappear behind the neckline trim ... look at how they
"reappear" out from under the wide trim above the belt.  IMO, this is
the source of the garments that we see in later symbolic art where the
woman has on a hip-length "vest" or "corsage" or whatever you want to
call it.

Susan
-----


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] ideas on making body-shape suit or adding weight
	toanactress
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 12:42:59 -0700
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That's why you line with cotton, so the plastic doesn't touch the skin.
Better than foam, or polyfill, which is , after all, plastic too.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Susan B. Farmer
Sent: Wednesday, April 12, 2006 7:46 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] ideas on making body-shape suit or adding weight
toanactress


Quoting "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>:

> You could use those air filled plastic bladders they use as filler for 
> packages. They are very lightweight, and if you keep a layer of cotton 
> between the body and the bladders, it should be ok. I just got some 
> today in my box from Amazon. You could blow up zip lock bags and get 
> the same effect-more sizes, too. They're so lightweight you can just 
> use gaffers tape to hold them in place. Plus they're super cheap.

But wouldn't all that plastic be rather *hot*?

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] girdle? was:] Photos
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Any possibility that the line of trim is what we would call a waistband,
attached to the vertical pleated skirt, the whole worn over the horizontally
pleated underdress?

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Susan B. Farmer
Sent: Wednesday, April 12, 2006 11:43 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] girdle? was:] Photos


Quoting Marie Stewart <maricelt@gmail.com>:

> There are many, many theories about bliauts.  I have a few myself. 
> However just to stick with the question...  is there docs on the 
> horizontal lines on the bliaut ever being a separate piece from the 
> garment?
>
> Some say yes. Some say no.   I used to be in the "probably no, but it
> is vaguely possible" camp... until Nancy's photos showed me something 
> new.
>
> look at the photo called PDRM0061in the Chartres collection.  Look at 
> the belt knot, then look just above the belt knot.  There you will see 
> a repeating decorative pattern, that resembles trim, either woven or 
> embroidered.  Now... notice that the "trim" appears to lie flat and 
> follow the curve of the body,  lines above it run in the horizontal 
> direction, lines below it run vertically.

You can also see this line of trip just above the belt on some statues from
St. Loup de Naud.  This is a large scan (ca. 1 MB in size) so that you can
see the details quite nicely.

http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Paintings/stLoupDeNaud_LeftPortal-deta
i2l.jpg
or
http://tinyurl.com/6qse5

The other thing that is telling to me is the "knife-pleats."  Look at how
they disappear behind the neckline trim ... look at how they "reappear" out
from under the wide trim above the belt.  IMO, this is the source of the
garments that we see in later symbolic art where the woman has on a
hip-length "vest" or "corsage" or whatever you want to call it.

>
> To me this is really starting to suggest a separate layer.  Could be. 
> Can I be positive, not yet, but I am intrigued.
>
> Could this be the "corsetum" mentioned in the English inventories of 
> the early 1300s, which was fashionably "behind the times" -  or an
> ancestor of that garment?   Are the two even linked at all?

Well, wasn't France leading the Fashion World (tm) at that time?  I don't
have a problem with the English lagging behind.

>
> Some folks might postulate that the trim is a product or a decoration 
> to highlight construction of the garment.  Covering the joining of a
> bodice to a skirt...   Personally I find that theory to be too
> speculative for me, and not in keeping with examples of garment
> shaping of the day.   But some people do advocate that style of
> construction.

Yeah, I think that's a little too sketchy for me too.

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Nancy, thank you for going to the trouble of finding a way to post your photos.  The statue from Angers is very interesting and I appreciate your nice sharp detail shots.

Janet


  I have posted my pictures of the statue with the bliaut from Angers to  
  Flickr as well as some from Chartres, also with bliaut.  Additionally in  the 
  Chartres set are pictures I took of the St. Louis shirt in Notre Dame.   There is 
  also a set of pictures from the Costume Museum in Bath.
   
  http://www.flickr.com/photos/maddnancyphotos/
   
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Quoting "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>:

> Any possibility that the line of trim is what we would call a waistband,
> attached to the vertical pleated skirt, the whole worn over the horizontally
> pleated underdress?

It's *always* possible.  But a couple of Garb Laurels that I know point
out that the waist seam is such a useful thing, why would it appear
*briefly* here in the 12th century and then disappear until the 15th
century (I think I"m getting my centuries straight).  You don't see it
again (other than in Italian garb) until Tudor fashion IIRC.  I'd just
*love* to have a Time Mschine if for no other reason than to answer
this very question!

Their line of thinking is that you have to draw on what was before and
what comes after -- since fashion, back then, didn't change just
because The Great Design Houses issued their new fall collection.  It
sort of oozed between styles.  Everything before and after the bliaut
is a simple tunic-type garment (yeah, the fit and support are different
between the 11th and the later garments), but they're still 2 or 4 panel
garments (unless you count some of the Herjolfernes garments [and I sure
hope I spelled that correctly!]).  It's easier for me to see a shorter
overgarment (we do see shorter tunics -- maybe only a foot or so, but
they're shorter over-tunics) than a waist seam appear out of nowhere
just to disappear again.

It's also possible that the trip is some sort of stabilizer on a single
piece gown to keep the shirring caused by the lacing in place. However, 
there's definately 2 layers at the neck (well, as definate as
one can be from looking at a piece of stone .....)

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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>In the Chartres it seems to stops under the bust

Some of the pleating on this one goes across the line which delineates the 
lower edge of the bust.  Look closely to find the exact pleats which do this.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] girdle? was:] Photos
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>look at the photo called PDRM0061in the Chartres collection.  Look at
>the belt knot, then look just above the belt knot.  There you will see
>a repeating decorative pattern, that resembles trim, either woven or
>embroidered.  Now... notice that the "trim" appears to lie flat and
>follow the curve of the body,  lines above it run in the horizontal
>direction, lines below it run vertically.

PDRM0062 shows the same trim-like decoration at the neck of the outermost 
garment.  I'm ready to stand corrected.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
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          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Re. leather and stays
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The leather that I've seen binding the edges of 18th century stays is smooth
on the outside and rough on the reverse - like a pair of dressy gloves. (as
mentioned -kid gloves) This looks to be the same leather that was also used
on 19th century corsets I've seen.  Though I can't swear to their animal
origins, I suspect kid.  That was definitely called "wash leather" in the
19th century.
If you want to see the crescent pad under the arm go to the Kent State site.
Two of the ones there have this feature, though it's easier to see on one
than the other.
http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/4subjectsearch/lingerie/lingerie18t
h/lingerie18.html
on the first stays - "colonial brown quilted" - you can see it best in the
profile view. It's quite small and looks to be twisted.
on the sixth stays you can see it best (the ones right after the busk.)
The Museum of the City of New York has a set of stays with this underarm
shield made up of several layers of linen rather than leather.
My question - does anyone know the proper name for this underarm piece?

Martha


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Greetings--

Susan B. Farmer wrote:
> Their line of thinking is that you have to draw on what was before and
> what comes after -- since fashion, back then, didn't change just
> because The Great Design Houses issued their new fall collection.  It
> sort of oozed between styles.  Everything before and after the bliaut
> is a simple tunic-type garment (yeah, the fit and support are different
> between the 11th and the later garments), but they're still 2 or 4 panel
> garments (unless you count some of the Herjolfernes garments [and I sure
> hope I spelled that correctly!]).  It's easier for me to see a shorter
> overgarment (we do see shorter tunics -- maybe only a foot or so, but
> they're shorter over-tunics) than a waist seam appear out of nowhere
> just to disappear again.
This is generally my line of thought as well, and illustrates one of the 
problems of using statuary as a source for clothing history.  Statuary 
is *always* a secondary source, as the detail is subject to artistic 
interpretation--although it's also often one of the best sources we've 
got.  Statues are not photographs, any more than paintings are, even 
when there is a fair degree of realism.  Sculptors likely did not have 
live models posing for them as they chipped away at the stone; even when 
they are being realistic, there was always the challenge of representing 
what the fabric does in stone, a very different medium.  Just as we know 
painters "got it wrong", it is possible that so did sculptors.  This is 
where trying to verify what you see in the statues with other 
sources--extant garments, cutting techniques, literary sources, and 
other visual sources--leads to a more complete picture.  We can't take 
any of these sources in the twelfth century in isolation to understand 
what's going on.

The problem, of course, is that we lack an extant "bliaut", so theories 
are going to remain theories unless someone unearths a big trove of 
bliauts somewhere.  And I suspect even then there would be questions.....

Susan
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] girdle? was:] Photos
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>Sculptors likely did not have live models posing for them as they chipped 
>away at the stone; even when they are being realistic, there was always 
>the challenge of representing what the fabric does in stone, a very 
>different medium.

At least they were closer to the real thing than we are.  And, presumably, 
they saw a real one at some point.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re. leather and stays
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By the way, I've seen kidskin for sale as a bookbinding supply--in fact, at 
the moment there's some up for sale on ebay:
http://stores.ebay.com/LEATHER-OUTLET
(click on kid skins under the store categories on the left)
It's about the same cost as buying a similar amount of chamois.

-E House 

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     Oooh, check out those metallics!!  I didn't see any white, but then
again I didn't look past the first page.  It would be worth
contacting the seller to find out how thin the kid leather is.

     At one point, the Silly Sisters (18thC clothing makers & merchants)
had stay binding leather available in a 1/2" strip, sold by the foot.
 I'm not sure if it was kid, but it was definitely thin enough to
sew.

     I hate the idea of cutting up antiques, but there are kid leather
gloves around where the hand is about 2" across and they would only
fit ET.  Or if you can find them as single gloves (unpaired) or
damaged.

     -Carol

> By the way, I've seen kidskin for sale as a bookbinding supply--in fact,
> at the moment there's some up for sale on ebay:
> http://stores.ebay.com/LEATHER-OUTLET
> (click on kid skins under the store categories on the left)
> It's about the same cost as buying a similar amount of chamois.
>
> -E House


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>So my question, just for my knowledge, is there docs on the horizontal lines
>on the bliaut ever being a separate piece from the garment?

SCA people sometimes make this as a separate garment, but that's partly 
because of bad reproductions of the original image.  The carving shows this 
as part of a single garment.  BTW, you can tell your friends that Nazi's 
haven't been invented yet, so she can stop calling you one.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] girdle? was:] Photos
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I'd love to see the image where the 'girdle' section is a different color 
from the rest of the gown--I'm in the 
collecting-all-theories-and-evidence-so-I-can-make-test-garments-someday 
camp!

-E House
PS--thanks for the great photos 

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hi,
Thanks for all your help with this question. I would try to find some of 
this stuf and i hope not it is difficult to sew with, as i hate binding for 
the guts of my heart.

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] girdle?  was:] Photos
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Well.....she may get me the info which makes me wonder if it isn't a SCA
award scroll.
I have asked as I am interested as well.
De

-----Original Message-----
Do you have any additional information on The Manuscript?  I'd *really*
like to see that (as would a number of other folks, I"m sure!)

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re. leather and stays
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 19:16:10 -0500
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I looked around a bit more on ebay, and there's several other sellers 
offering it--do a search for kid skin, and be sure to check the stores as 
well as the normal listings.  There's a shoeseller who's retiring from the 
business and is selling off his inventory (id: parkridge101) who has a cream 
colored hide and a partial white hide, both big enough to get several stays 
worth of binding.

It's a pity that I don't seem likely to have time anyday soon to make 18thC 
stays--I'm all in the mood, now!

-E House

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From: Elizabeth Young <lizyoung@fenris.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] kid scin
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Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Is it like washing leather?
> 
> Bjarne
> 
Possibly, if "washing leather" is what one uses to wash surfaces that 
one does not want scratched.

Gosh, what a tortured sentence!

liz young

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re. leather and stays
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 well as the normal listings.  There's a shoeseller who's retiring from the
> business and is selling off his inventory (id: parkridge101) 


Mmm, I wish I was there!

A few years ago, a shoe making factory here inMmelbourne closed down and all 
was being sold. People walked out with great machinery and tools and many 
businesses bought up a lot of the leather stock before auction they thought may 
be useful. At the bottom of the leather racks, unpurchased until I came along, 
was all the stock they thought would never be of use...1960s and '70s fashion 
leathers in pretty good condition: hot pink patents, '70s muscle-car-purples, 
maroons, crazy lizard prints, bright orange, flame effects, blue suedes... You 
get the picture.

I still have some but I am never using it because it is mine, mine, ALL 
MINE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

-C.


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] girdle? was:] Photos
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 20:02:33 -0400
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On Wednesday 12 April 2006 5:05 pm, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> >look at the photo called PDRM0061in the Chartres collection.  Look at
> >the belt knot, then look just above the belt knot.  There you will see
> >a repeating decorative pattern, that resembles trim, either woven or
> >embroidered.  Now... notice that the "trim" appears to lie flat and
> >follow the curve of the body,  lines above it run in the horizontal
> >direction, lines below it run vertically.
>
> PDRM0062 shows the same trim-like decoration at the neck of the outermost
> garment.  I'm ready to stand corrected.


Or both could be the same pattern of tablet woven trim--sewn on at the neck, 
used as a belt below.  I'm not convinced....


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
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Greetings--

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
>> Sculptors likely did not have live models posing for them as they 
>> chipped away at the stone; even when they are being realistic, there 
>> was always the challenge of representing what the fabric does in 
>> stone, a very different medium.
>
> At least they were closer to the real thing than we are.  And, 
> presumably, they saw a real one at some point.
That's why sculpture does have its attractions as a source.  You just 
have to know and work with the caveats, as you would any source, and 
never assume they're being photographic-perfect in their 
representations.  Most of the twelfth century sculptures have a fair bit 
of stylization, so you have to ask yourself what's accurate, what's 
stylized, and what is limited by the limits of the medium itself.

One of the things I find fascinating about a lot of medieval sculpture 
(and apparently, a fair bit of the classical stuff as well) is that it 
was painted!  I have no idea of whether these particular examples were 
painted, but boy, wouldn't that have added an interesting layer of 
detail....

Susan

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] spiral lacing
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Do you mean for where you start and end the lacing?  Like-an "extra" 
lace to tie off to? Hmmm, I wonder why it would be necessary?  When we 
spiral lace we just tie off in the last hole......

Sg

Curious in Buckwheat, AZ
Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hi,
> Have any of you ever seen extra tapes sewed to the top and bottom 
> center backs, for tying on if you use spiral lacing?
>
> Bjarne


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Oooh Ahhh, are you in for a treat.  http://www.hidehouse.com/  You can 
request a catalog, though I can't believe they don't have something 
comperable in Europe.  (Probably better, I mean after all, there is 
where it all started!)  

This is where I bought my "lipstick red"  lambskin for the corset I made 
for the "Suitable Gown for Her Majesty" 
http://www.saragrace.us/3E_4_QEW_Corset.html

While there in Napa, I also bought the most wonderful "celery green" 
hide....It comes in a number of lovely colors.  Also, deer skin is very 
soft and supple. (my hubby lets me have his hides he hunts)  It is 
perfect for edging the corsets.   I have found also, that ultrasuede 
lite, works beautifully, but you must cut it as a facing rather than a 
binding....does that make sense?  This is awesome stuff for leather 
guards on the bottom of gowns....it washes beautifully!

Sg

P.S.  Let me know if you have any trouble getting what you want.  I can 
order it and send it to you....



Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Is it like washing leather?


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Steam Iron source
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Research the stuff on Rowenta - I have one for everyday ironing and it 
is okay, but as they age they spit etc.  The commercial ones that 
Greenberg and Hammer offer are awesome...pricey.... but awesome.  I have 
heard good things about the Euro-pro, but have not used those myself.
Kim Baird wrote:

>I have a very nice Euro-Pro with separate reservoir. I got it at Jo-Anne
>Fabrics. I've also seen them on line.
>
>Kim 
>  
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Missed the original post- was  Photos
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Nancy, thank you so much for posting these pictures.  I am sorry I 
missed the original post.  Can you explain again the information on the 
white linen garment (from Chartres?)  and the last colored picture 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/maddnancyphotos/127491641/?
Thanks,

Sg
MaddNancy@aol.com wrote:

>I have posted my pictures of the statue with the bliaut from Angers to  
>Flickr as well as some from Chartres, also with bliaut.  Additionally in  the 
>Chartres set are pictures I took of the St. Louis shirt in Notre Dame.   There is 
>also a set of pictures from the Costume Museum in Bath.
> 
>http://www.flickr.com/photos/maddnancyphotos/
> 
>Nancy
>_______________________________________________
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>
>  
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] girdle? was:] Photos
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On Wednesday 12 April 2006 9:10 pm, Susan Carroll-Clark wrote:
> Greetings--
>
> Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> >> Sculptors likely did not have live models posing for them as they
> >> chipped away at the stone; even when they are being realistic, there
> >> was always the challenge of representing what the fabric does in
> >> stone, a very different medium.
> >
> > At least they were closer to the real thing than we are.  And,
> > presumably, they saw a real one at some point.
>
> That's why sculpture does have its attractions as a source.  You just
> have to know and work with the caveats, as you would any source, and
> never assume they're being photographic-perfect in their
> representations.  Most of the twelfth century sculptures have a fair bit
> of stylization, so you have to ask yourself what's accurate, what's
> stylized, and what is limited by the limits of the medium itself.
>
> One of the things I find fascinating about a lot of medieval sculpture
> (and apparently, a fair bit of the classical stuff as well) is that it
> was painted!  

Yes, indeed.  The Philadelphia Museum of Art is built on the model of an 
ancient Greek temple, complete with sculptures in friezes around the walls, 
just under the roof eaves.  Their sculptures are painted--bright primary 
colors--reds, blues.  Flesh tones.  It's a very different aesthetic than 
we're accustomed to, knowing only the paintless statues as they've come down 
to us, but once you get used to the idea, it seems quite natural.  

I've seen a number of medieval sculptures that still retained noticeable 
amounts of pigment.  The main surprise about the sculptures I've seen is that 
the favorite color for the Virgin Mary's tunic is red, usually with a dark 
blue mantle (that scheme shows up in minatures and paintings of the period as 
well, now that I think about it).


> I have no idea of whether these particular examples were 
> painted, but boy, wouldn't that have added an interesting layer of
> detail....

Yes, it would.  Of course, there would still be art interpretation issues, 
much as there are for miniatures (e.g., was this color chosen for its 
symbolism?  or because it was an easily available paint pigment? or because 
people actually wore it?)  But I always prefer more information to less, even 
when the new information raises more questions than it answers.

--
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
--General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)

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In a message dated 4/12/2006 9:41:32 P.M. EST, Susan wrote:
 
One of the things I find fascinating about a lot of medieval sculpture  
(and apparently, a fair bit of the classical stuff as well) is that it  
was painted!  I have no idea of whether these particular examples were  
painted, but boy, wouldn't that have added an interesting layer of  detail....

 
 
 
I took some pictures of statues in various museums that were  painted.  I 
mainly took the pictures because they were painted and, we're  so unused to that 
idea.  The one I remember off the top of my head had  bright blue, red, and 
yellow robes.  
 
In addition to the statues, the walls might also be brightly  painted.  One 
of the rooms in one of the buildings at the Tower of London  is currently in 
the process of being painted as it might have been at the time  it was 
constructed.  It looks likes a whitewash with a painted pattern on  it.  It's very 
attractive and really brightens up the room.
 
Nancy (Maddalena)




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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] girdle? was:] Photos
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On Wed, 12 Apr 2006, Sharon at Collierfam.com wrote:

> Any possibility that the line of trim is what we would call a
> waistband, attached to the vertical pleated skirt, the whole worn over
> the horizontally pleated underdress?

One of the more believable theories I've heard for this is that the line
of trim (which is indeed distinct from the double-looped belt, and is
visible on several statues that I know of) is the waistband of a
decorative apron, and everything visible below that line is the apron
itself, forming a layer that goes over the full dress layer. That at least
would give us another alternative to the options of "waistband seam" and
"corselet."

Me, I frankly think the "bliaut problem" (meaning specifically how to
interpret the lines in the statuary in terms of specific garments and
construction) is fundamentally unsolvable given the present body of data.
People can argue about this till the cows come home, and there is still no
theory I've heard yet that's anything better than speculation and is
consistent with what we know of garments at this time from other media and
documents.

It's also important to recognize that the Chartres-style statues are not a
good set of sources to base any construction theories on. They're all from
a very small time/place slice, in a single medium. The mysterious lines do
not seem to occur in any other medium or locale at this time (at least
that I know of -- I'd be glad to see examples.) Plus, as far as I know,
every one of them is of an allegorical or historical figure. This raises
the very real possibility that what we are looking at is not an attempt to
reproduce real garments as worn by real women, but might be simply a style
for artistic representation unique to sculptors from a single artistic
school in this small part of France.

When we see the same details popping up in other media or over a broader
area, then I'll be more willing to speculate. But as it stands, I'm
staying out of it; the chances are far too good that this is all a blind
alley for costume evidence.

--Robin


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First: Can anyone tell me how to stretch a cotton/rayon "cowboy" hat from a size 6 3/4 to a size 7? 
Second: A friend of mine (same guy that has the hat) has purchased an antique mini revolver called a Velo-dogs pistol. It is a tiny gun made to fit in a vest pocket of a bike rider circa 1890 (plus or minus ten years). Apparently it was customary for ladies and gentlemen of the day to go riding in the country and at times they would be set upon by packs of wild dogs.  The little gun was loaded with something akin to shotgun shells, but finer (like sand) that would sting and scare the dogs off without injuring them.  What would the bike riding vest look like and how would the pocket be made so that the little gun could slip in and out easily? Anyone have a clue about this? Thanks

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


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In a message dated 4/13/2006 12:36:02 AM Eastern Standard Time,  
lalahcatlady@netscape.com writes:

Can  anyone tell me how to stretch a cotton/rayon "cowboy" hat from a size 6 
3/4 to  a size 7? 



Does it have an interior band?  If so, you may have to remove  it.  If not, 
just try steaming, steaming, with a teakettle if you don't  have a proper 
steamer, then putting it on the right size form (or maybe even the  head will 
work).  However, sounds like said hat is cheap enough not to  bother, nor might 
that steaming will even work.  But you aren't out much if  it doesn't.  There are 
lots of sources for cheap cowboy hats out  there.  On-line, try Shepler's.  
Around here, the Latino stores stock  straw ones--not felt, so much.
 
Ann Wass 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] girdle? was:] Photos
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>Of course, there would still be art interpretation issues,
>much as there are for miniatures (e.g., was this color chosen for its
>symbolism?  or because it was an easily available paint pigment? or because
>people actually wore it?)

There's always a difference between dyestuff, for fabric, and paint 
pigment.  And what's good for one isn't necessarily good for the other.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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I found the link in a friend's blog - fabric made from corn. Really!

http://msnbc.msn.com/id/12225701/site/newsweek/

Wonder how much it truly costs...

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>I found the link in a friend's blog - fabric made from corn. Really!

There are knitting yarns made of this already, and yarns made of milk.  In, 
I believe, the 1880s, the new fiber was one made of wood (Rayon).


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 02:07:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re. leather and stays
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I would not use those for binding corsets. I do bookbinding as a hobby and those skins are vegetable tanned and very stiff and non stretchy as that is the qualities useful in bookbinding. I believe washing skins are alumtanned or something like that. At least they are much softer and pliable that bookbinding skins
   
  Tania

E House <formfunc@formfunction.org> wrote:
  By the way, I've seen kidskin for sale as a bookbinding supply--in fact, at 
the moment there's some up for sale on ebay:
http://stores.ebay.com/LEATHER-OUTLET
(click on kid skins under the store categories on the left)
It's about the same cost as buying a similar amount of chamois.

-E House 

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Milk???  Hmmm, now I have heard of textiles made from the cellulose in 
soy, but milk?  I can't remember right now which product, but either 
"Silk" soy milk, or "Vitasoy" has a little history of all the textile 
stuff that Henry Ford tried to use soy for.  Some of my spinner friends 
don't particularly like spinning with soy silk, but then I suppose it is 
all what you get used to and what you have access to. 

Funny, when I tried to google on soy silk, I got this:
Soy Silk and Ingeo Corn Fiber 
<http://www.earthguild.com/products/spinning/spsoycor.htm> Soy Silk is 
made of left-overs from the tofu manufacturing process. ... Blending 75% 
Soy Silk with 25% fine wool adds memory and bounce while maintaining 
...www.earthguild.com/products/spinning/spsoycor.htm - 4k -

But when I clicked on it, I couldn't find anything else about the 
Inego.....I wonder how long it has been around?   Bummer that it can 
melt when it gets ironed...I wonder how bad it is....thanks for sharing!

Sg


Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

>
>> I found the link in a friend's blog - fabric made from corn. Really!
>
>
> There are knitting yarns made of this already, and yarns made of 
> milk.  In, I believe, the 1880s, the new fiber was one made of wood 
> (Rayon).
>

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In a message dated 4/13/2006 6:18:39 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
wickedfrau@msn.com writes:

now I  have heard of textiles made from the cellulose in 
soy, but  milk? 


Actually, these are regenerated PROTEIN fibers, as rayon is a  regenerated 
cellulose fiber.  Milk protein fabrics were big in the  1930s.  So the milk and 
soy fibers are akin to silk and wool, as rayon  is akin to cotton.
 
Ann Wass
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Susan B. Farmer wrote:
>  
> You can also see this line of trip just above the belt on some statues
> from St. Loup de Naud.  This is a large scan (ca. 1 MB in size) so that
> you can see the details quite nicely.
> 
> http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Paintings/stLoupDeNaud_LeftPortal-detai2l.jpg

This is very interesting--where is St. Loup de Naud, and is it known 
when the statuary was done?

Thanks,
Melanie Schuessler

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] girdle? was:] Photos
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On Thu, 13 Apr 2006, Melanie Schuessler wrote:

> Susan B. Farmer wrote:
> >  
> > You can also see this line of trip just above the belt on some statues
> > from St. Loup de Naud.  This is a large scan (ca. 1 MB in size) so that
> > you can see the details quite nicely.
> > 
> > http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Paintings/stLoupDeNaud_LeftPortal-detai2l.jpg
> 
> This is very interesting--where is St. Loup de Naud, and is it known 
> when the statuary was done?

It's by Provins -- e.g. not far from Paris or Chartres. The portals are
12th c. See
http://perso.magic.fr/relet/StLoup/Saint_Loup_de_Naud/Saint_Loup_de_Naud.htm
for some discussion of the portals
For the French-impaired, that's
http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=fr&u=http://perso.magic.fr/relet/StLoup/Saint_Loup_de_Naud/Saint_Loup_de_Naud.htm&prev=/search%3Fq%3DLoup%2Bde%2BNaud%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26client%3Dgooglet
but as usual this is a little cockeyed! First time I've seen "Moyen Age"
(Middle Ages) translated as "the Average Age" ;-)

The page says that the portal is not precisely dateable, but probably is
around 1160, when the church received a major relic.

The female figure is probably the Queen of Sheba (biblical, royal,
foreign). There's a Queen of Sheba image in some costume books -- I think
it's in Payne, among others, or maybe it was Davenport? -- but I don't
know if it's the same one.

--Robin


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Subject: [h-cost] Arrowhead Reinforcement?
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Dear All,

Long time, no write. Sorry.

I'm looking for information on how to make something I
think is called Arrowhead Reinforcement. It's a
finishing technique where the top of a slit (usually
on shirt tails, I think) is reinforced at the end by a
hand stitched arrowhead style design. 

Does anyone have information on how to make these?

Thanks a bunch,
Cynthia

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Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 09:00:45 -0400
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 331
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Hi Nancy--
Yes I've heard that classical statues were painted. Does anyone know if any
survived with the paint intact? I know that we have both seen tons of
medieval painted statues in the Met.

Your comment about walls with a painted pattern reminded me of one. In
Florence there is a room in the Palazzo Vecchio called the "Sala dei Gigli
(Room of Lilies-- lilies/ fleur de lis being the symbol of the city of
Florence) The walls are painted deep blue and there are gold fleur de lis
all over it. Looks like wallpaper.

Monica (Catriona)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of MaddNancy@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 12, 2006 11:16 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 331



In a message dated 4/12/2006 9:41:32 P.M. EST, Susan wrote:

One of the things I find fascinating about a lot of medieval sculpture
(and apparently, a fair bit of the classical stuff as well) is that it
was painted!  I have no idea of whether these particular examples were
painted, but boy, wouldn't that have added an interesting layer of
detail....




I took some pictures of statues in various museums that were  painted.  I
mainly took the pictures because they were painted and, we're  so unused to
that
idea.  The one I remember off the top of my head had  bright blue, red, and
yellow robes.

In addition to the statues, the walls might also be brightly  painted.  One
of the rooms in one of the buildings at the Tower of London  is currently in
the process of being painted as it might have been at the time  it was
constructed.  It looks likes a whitewash with a painted pattern on  it.
It's very
attractive and really brightens up the room.

Nancy (Maddalena)




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From: "Land of Oz" <landofoz@netins.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] kid skin and arrowheads
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 08:57:55 -0500
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> The chamois that I've seen is yellow, and has a suede-like surface.
> I know people like to use chamois because they can find it easily and
> it's thin (nicer for hand stitching).
>
>     Or do you mean something different for chamois - is it available
> white and with a smooth surface?

I think the identity problem is with manufacturers taking a name for a 
specific thing and using it for a wide variety of other, similar things. 
Unless I'm mistaken, a "true" Chamois is fine, absorbent leather made from 
the skin of a kind of mountain goat (with the same name, I think) and it's 
usually very light cream colored (and very expensive). People didn't buy 
them to polish their Chevy, they used them on their Lamborghini. :-)  The 
yellow leather chamois polishing pieces sold in mass-market stores are 
inexpensive because they are not Chamois -- they are similar in use to 
Chamois: polishing your Ford. Absorbent chamois with a small "c" I suppose.

----------------------
>> I'm looking for information on how to make something I
think is called Arrowhead Reinforcement. It's a
finishing technique where the top of a slit (usually
on shirt tails, I think) is reinforced at the end by a
hand stitched arrowhead style design.

=
I've seen these on western shirts at each end of a breast pocket. Sometimes 
they are machine embroidered (simple straight lines with the wide end over 
edge of the slit) but usually they are small triangles of felt or leather 
that are machine stitched over each end of the slit.


hope that helps
Denise
Iowa

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Has anyone heard of the new fabric?
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Ingeo? It's been around for a few years now, at least for the spinning and
knitting communities.  They're also making fiber for
spinning/weaving/knitting out of soy.  They're apparently similar to silk in
the handle.  Very inventive, <shrugs> but I've got enough on my plate just
working with wool and silk and linen! ;o)
Heck, you can even get yarn/fiber made from bamboo!
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ailith Mackintosh" <ailith@neo.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 12:57 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Has anyone heard of the new fabric?


> I found the link in a friend's blog - fabric made from corn. Really!
>
> http://msnbc.msn.com/id/12225701/site/newsweek/
>
> Wonder how much it truly costs...


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] kid leather
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In a message dated 4/12/2006 8:06:02 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

as i  hate binding for 
the guts of my heart.



************************
 
 
Hahahaha! Yes! Oh yes!
 
I doubt you would need a leather needle to sew Kid, but you might get one  
just in case....for the machine I mean. And since it stretches a bit, if you  
have a walking foot...one with "feed dogs" to move the fabric on top as well as  
underneath, you might find that helpful. This assuming you're doing it by  
machine.
If you plan to bind it by hand....never mind...
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I've been asked to help find sources for  costumes for a school play... 
I believe they are doing the Columbus story. My information on Portugese 
clothing of that time is very thin... would it be safe to use Spanish 
sources? English?



Dawn


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Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 12:04:12 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kid leather & binding stays
From: aquazoo@patriot.net
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> I doubt you would need a leather needle to sew Kid, but you might get one
> just in case....for the machine I mean. And since it stretches a bit, if
> you have a walking foot...one with "feed dogs" to move the fabric on top
> as well as underneath, you might find that helpful. This assuming you're
> doing it by machine.
> If you plan to bind it by hand....never mind...

     There is that small matter of the boning...

     I did do a binding on lightly boned stays by machine - stitch for two
inches, skip the 1/4 inch over the bone, stitch another 2"...  then I
went back and hand-stitched where the bones were.

     The idea, of course, is to enclose the end of the bone in leather,
otherwise it will wear and poke through just below the leather.

     I suppose with light plastic boning you can sew right through it, but
the Wissner is a harder plastic.  I'm not sure you could put a needle
through it without breaking the plastic, even if you have an
industrial machine that could sew through it!

     By the way, some original stays have a single stitch through each
bone (whalebone) about an inch from the top and an inch from the
bottom to anchor it in the channel and keep it from sliding.

     -Carol

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Portugal clothing in the 15th century
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
> I've been asked to help find sources for  costumes for a school play... I 
> believe they are doing the Columbus story. My information on Portugese 
> clothing of that time is very thin... would it be safe to use Spanish 
> sources? English?

>From what I've seen, they look a lot closer to Spanish than anything 
else--you might want to look through
http://jessamynscloset.com/
which has a collection of Spanish and Portuguese images.

-E House

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Apr 13 12:20:32 2006
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Wicked Frau writes:

I am  sorry I 
missed the original post.  Can you explain again the  information on the 
white linen garment (from Chartres?)  and the last  colored picture  
http://www.flickr.com/photos/maddnancyphotos/127491641/?
Thanks,       






The white linen garment is the St. Louis tunic that is in the Treasury at  
Notre Dame.
 
The colored picture is from the choir of Notre Dame.  I have more info  on it 
on my other computer.  I included it because I always like to see  examples 
of striped clothing.
 
Nancy (Maddalena)
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Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 17:37:35 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th  century men query/clarification
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At 17:32 13/04/2006, you wrote:

>O.K. I give up! I have searched all the usual suspects, Arnold, 
>Mikhaila, Waugh, Tudor Images, Costume in the Western World, 
>Davenport, Ashelford etc., the costume books edited by James Laver, 
>a beautiful Czech book I have and so on. I cannot find an image of a 
>gentleman in breeches and skirted doublet for about 1560-80.
>
>It is for my husband to wear to an SCA event we have been invited to 
>in the summer. I have all the garb for me for gentry, and my husband 
>has a pair of wool breeches and  a pair of slightly non-authentic 
>boots that will have to do. However, as he is only going to be 
>wearing this doublet once, and i am totally tight for time, I need 
>something simple and thought that a plain but rich wool skirted 
>doublet would be ideal. He has his own peascod belly so won't need 
>padding, but the only images I can find are of upper class servants, 
>or peasants, and my husband would not have been a peasant!! 
>(Me?  marry a peasant? - bah!)


Sorry, I should have made it clear that I can easily find images of 
the doublet with trunk hose or plain hose, but not with breeches. 
That is what I need.

>I may have to go with what I want rather than what is strictly 
>authentic, but any advice or images would be most welcome.
>
>Suzi
>
>http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://vassun.vassar.edu/~jasaeger/img/maps/hoefnagel_1024x-2g.jpeg&imgrefurl=http://vassun.vassar.edu/~jasaeger/img/maps/london-a.html&h=768&w=973&sz=166&tbnid=5x31pXSylFzxVM:&tbnh=116&tbnw=148&hl=en&start=14&prev=/images%3Fq%3DHoefnagel%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26sa%3DG
>
>The young man on the left is wearing the kind of doublet I mean. 
>(Sorry I don't know how to compress the url.) 
>_______________________________________________
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>
>


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H-costumers,
A friend just came back from a trip to Spain & reported .a new costume
museum in Madrid; it just opened in 2004.  There's very very little
from before the 18th c, but what there is, is new & interesting.
museodeltraje.mcu.es
On the side bar click: indumentaria histórica
Noodle around and you will find an unusual sleeveless woman's doublet
(jubon femenino) circa 1590-1620.  I've never seen this particular
garment before. The stripey skirtings are really fun. It reminded me
of the red & white arches of Seville cathedral.
There's also an early pocket, I think, under the "joyeria" (jewelry)
section with what may be couched silver thread. Pretty, but a very
small picture.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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I only know of two types that have been call "Arrowhead". One is embroidery
in which you embroider a triangle shape at the top of the slit uses either
split stitch, darning stitch or a stitch that I can't remember what its
called.
The other method was taking triangular piece of the same  material as the
garment or item to be "arrowheaded", fold in a bit of the tips, then the
sides. Stitch down the turned under sides with a point facing up and a side
going across the top of the slit. Think of the slit as the shaft of an arrow
and the triangular piece the arrowhead and that is how it should look in
alignment. You will want to stitch the interior of the arrowhead, this I
have seen artistic license as from simple triangle within triangle to
initials to geometrics.
There is the option of satin stitching instead of hemming the triangle for
less bulk.
This is my understanding of Arrowhead and may not be what you are looking
for or the "real" arrowhead for slits.

De




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Those with digest please try to put something in the subject heading so that
those of us who glean through will know ahead of time what subject you are
commenting on or if it is a new topic.

Thank you,
De


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] 16th  century men query
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O.K. I give up! I have searched all the usual suspects, Arnold, 
Mikhaila, Waugh, Tudor Images, Costume in the Western World, 
Davenport, Ashelford etc., the costume books edited by James Laver, a 
beautiful Czech book I have and so on. I cannot find an image of a 
gentleman in breeches and skirted doublet for about 1560-80.

It is for my husband to wear to an SCA event we have been invited to 
in the summer. I have all the garb for me for gentry, and my husband 
has a pair of wool breeches and  a pair of slightly non-authentic 
boots that will have to do. However, as he is only going to be 
wearing this doublet once, and i am totally tight for time, I need 
something simple and thought that a plain but rich wool skirted 
doublet would be ideal. He has his own peascod belly so won't need 
padding, but the only images I can find are of upper class servants, 
or peasants, and my husband would not have been a peasant!! 
(Me?  marry a peasant? - bah!)

I may have to go with what I want rather than what is strictly 
authentic, but any advice or images would be most welcome.

Suzi

http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://vassun.vassar.edu/~jasaeger/img/maps/hoefnagel_1024x-2g.jpeg&imgrefurl=http://vassun.vassar.edu/~jasaeger/img/maps/london-a.html&h=768&w=973&sz=166&tbnid=5x31pXSylFzxVM:&tbnh=116&tbnw=148&hl=en&start=14&prev=/images%3Fq%3DHoefnagel%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26sa%3DG

The young man on the left is wearing the kind of doublet I mean. 
(Sorry I don't know how to compress the url.) 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] kid skin and arrowheads
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 20:54:32 +0200
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Arrowheads are very beautifull when made by hand. These are usually worked 
with the same buttonhole thread as the buttonholes.
There must be a place they show it online, but i dont know where.
My Burda Sewing book has very nice instruktions to make them.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Land of Oz" <landofoz@netins.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 3:57 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kid skin and arrowheads


>> The chamois that I've seen is yellow, and has a suede-like surface.
>> I know people like to use chamois because they can find it easily and
>> it's thin (nicer for hand stitching).
>>
>>     Or do you mean something different for chamois - is it available
>> white and with a smooth surface?
>
> I think the identity problem is with manufacturers taking a name for a 
> specific thing and using it for a wide variety of other, similar things. 
> Unless I'm mistaken, a "true" Chamois is fine, absorbent leather made from 
> the skin of a kind of mountain goat (with the same name, I think) and it's 
> usually very light cream colored (and very expensive). People didn't buy 
> them to polish their Chevy, they used them on their Lamborghini. :-)  The 
> yellow leather chamois polishing pieces sold in mass-market stores are 
> inexpensive because they are not Chamois -- they are similar in use to 
> Chamois: polishing your Ford. Absorbent chamois with a small "c" I 
> suppose.
>
> ----------------------
>>> I'm looking for information on how to make something I
> think is called Arrowhead Reinforcement. It's a
> finishing technique where the top of a slit (usually
> on shirt tails, I think) is reinforced at the end by a
> hand stitched arrowhead style design.
>
> =
> I've seen these on western shirts at each end of a breast pocket. 
> Sometimes they are machine embroidered (simple straight lines with the 
> wide end over edge of the slit) but usually they are small triangles of 
> felt or leather that are machine stitched over each end of the slit.
>
>
> hope that helps
> Denise
> Iowa
>
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] kid leather & binding stays
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 21:10:36 +0200
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Hi Carol.
Thanks for your informations. I didnt know that some bones were anchored to 
the channels.
Wiessner boning is hard plastic, but you actually can sew trough it with a 
strong sewing needle on the machine.
But i plan to bind all the edges by hand, i also sewed all the sections 
together by hand. I cant do it on a machine, because i use bones in all the 
channels of the tabs, and it s very difficult to control the sewingmachine 
on top of the bones.
Its a comission and i think i just want to bind the edges with ivory silk 
taffeta i have. I dont have the time to find kid, and i think i would have 
to praktise a lot with it before i use it on a pair of stays.
But thanks all for helping  me with the questions i had about kid skin.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <aquazoo@patriot.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 6:04 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kid leather & binding stays


>> I doubt you would need a leather needle to sew Kid, but you might get one
>> just in case....for the machine I mean. And since it stretches a bit, if
>> you have a walking foot...one with "feed dogs" to move the fabric on top
>> as well as underneath, you might find that helpful. This assuming you're
>> doing it by machine.
>> If you plan to bind it by hand....never mind...
>
>     There is that small matter of the boning...
>
>     I did do a binding on lightly boned stays by machine - stitch for two
> inches, skip the 1/4 inch over the bone, stitch another 2"...  then I
> went back and hand-stitched where the bones were.
>
>     The idea, of course, is to enclose the end of the bone in leather,
> otherwise it will wear and poke through just below the leather.
>
>     I suppose with light plastic boning you can sew right through it, but
> the Wissner is a harder plastic.  I'm not sure you could put a needle
> through it without breaking the plastic, even if you have an
> industrial machine that could sew through it!
>
>     By the way, some original stays have a single stitch through each
> bone (whalebone) about an inch from the top and an inch from the
> bottom to anchor it in the channel and keep it from sliding.
>
>     -Carol
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Museo de Traje
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Wow, they have some really interesting 18thC stuff that I've never seen 
before!

By the way, there's an English version of the site--on the front page, near 
the middle, you'll see a link that says 'Welcome' which will lead you to it. 
Also, you have to go to Gallery under Collections before you can get to the 
indumentaria histórica/ historical dress section, and you may want to go 
straight to the catalog section (under Collections) where you can search for 
images.  Unfortunately, there's no English version of the search engine.

-E House USED to be a fluent Spanish-speaker... 

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Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 15:50:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kid leather & binding stays
From: aquazoo@patriot.net
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     Glad I could help!  I've seen the Wissner in a thicker weight
(probably for hoops rather than boning) which I can't imagine sewing
through.  If the standard weight can be sewn, all the better!

     I would suggest a nice cotton or linen tape for binding rather than
silk.  Silk has poor abrasion resistance, and the edges of stays will
get a lot of wear.

     -Carol

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Museo de Traje
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Ahh,
Would someone please send the URL again?
Clumsy Bjarne who delited it!

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 9:39 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Museo de Traje


> Wow, they have some really interesting 18thC stuff that I've never seen 
> before!
>
> By the way, there's an English version of the site--on the front page, 
> near the middle, you'll see a link that says 'Welcome' which will lead you 
> to it. Also, you have to go to Gallery under Collections before you can 
> get to the indumentaria histórica/ historical dress section, and you may 
> want to go straight to the catalog section (under Collections) where you 
> can search for images.  Unfortunately, there's no English version of the 
> search engine.
>
> -E House USED to be a fluent Spanish-speaker...
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] kid leather & binding stays
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Status: RO

Bjarne, this place is local for me, but they mail order.  They have a nice supply of kid leather in their bridal/specialty department.  It's reasonable as well:

Mill End Retail Fabric Store
(503) 786-1234
9701 SE McLoughlin Blvd
Portland, OR 97222

www.millendstore.com<http://www.millendstore.com/>


HTH--

LuAnn in Washington


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In a message dated 4/13/2006 3:40:31 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
formfunc@formfunction.org writes:

Wow,  they have some really interesting 18thC 


*******************
 
Yes, that beautiful embroidered 1740 woman's jacket! And the very BLUE  man's 
suit from the 1760s.
 
And the woman's jerkin is really beautiful [ like "cinbarnes" said]
 
What fun! Let's all go!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Museo de Traje
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In a message dated 4/13/2006 2:00:53 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
cinbarnes@gmail.com writes:

museodeltraje.mcu.es



*****************
 
 
there ya go, Bjarne.
 
BTW....check out the wonderful stuff under "Popular Costume" [Indumentaria  
popular]
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 16th  century men query
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 18:06:49 -0700
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The new book, "The Tudor Tailor" has a line drawing of almost exactly what
you want, on page 63. You would just have to make the hanging sleeves.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 9:32 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] 16th century men query



O.K. I give up! I have searched all the usual suspects, Arnold, 
Mikhaila, Waugh, Tudor Images, Costume in the Western World, 
Davenport, Ashelford etc., the costume books edited by James Laver, a 
beautiful Czech book I have and so on. I cannot find an image of a 
gentleman in breeches and skirted doublet for about 1560-80.

It is for my husband to wear to an SCA event we have been invited to 
in the summer. I have all the garb for me for gentry, and my husband 
has a pair of wool breeches and  a pair of slightly non-authentic 
boots that will have to do. However, as he is only going to be 
wearing this doublet once, and i am totally tight for time, I need 
something simple and thought that a plain but rich wool skirted 
doublet would be ideal. He has his own peascod belly so won't need 
padding, but the only images I can find are of upper class servants, 
or peasants, and my husband would not have been a peasant!! 
(Me?  marry a peasant? - bah!)

I may have to go with what I want rather than what is strictly 
authentic, but any advice or images would be most welcome.

Suzi

http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://vassun.vassar.edu/~jasaeger/
img/maps/hoefnagel_1024x-2g.jpeg&imgrefurl=http://vassun.vassar.edu/~jasaege
r/img/maps/london-a.html&h=768&w=973&sz=166&tbnid=5x31pXSylFzxVM:&tbnh=116&t
bnw=148&hl=en&start=14&prev=/images%3Fq%3DHoefnagel%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%2
6lr%3D%26sa%3DG

The young man on the left is wearing the kind of doublet I mean. 
(Sorry I don't know how to compress the url.) 
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In a message dated 4/13/2006 9:07:36 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sharon@collierfam.com writes:

The new  book, "The Tudor Tailor" has a line drawing of almost exactly what
you  want, on page 63. You would just have to make the hanging  sleeves.



**************
I don't see any breeches on page 63.
 
I thought her dilemma was she cannot find a pictorial reference to a  doublet 
with long skirts worn with "breeches"....by which I think she means  
Venetians. There is a rendering of a man in a skirted doublet [one looks like a  
jerkin] with paned hosen that come to just above the knee on pages 11, 15  and 19.
The paintings these details are from are
 
"The Fete at Bermondsey"  by Joris Hoefnagel c1570 [page 11]
"The Embarkation at Dover" in the Royal Collection [page 15]
and
"The Field of the Cloth of Gold", also in the Royal Collection [Page  19]
 
The whole paintings [I think] are on the "Contents" page....but get your  
magnifying glass out.
 
But that's the problem isn't it? Most renderings of a doublet with  Venetians 
are of the later short doublet with tassets.
 
And again, these men all appear to be servants of some kind holding arms or  
something. But some are just dancing or socializing so you cannot really  tell.
 
 
 
 
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Corn - the new peanut.  Sounds like they are trying to make corn into everything from clothes to gas.
However, thin, not stretcy fabric sounds good and the dress in the picture looks floaty enough for anyone.  Hope they don't use all the corn up - I like eating it.
Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender



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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Portugal clothing in the 15th century
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 20:56:40 +0200
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Hi Dawn,
I think that a little later, portugal was ruled by a spanish king, so i 
would guess they not only are very close together regionally, but also 
fashionable.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 4:57 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Portugal clothing in the 15th century


> I've been asked to help find sources for  costumes for a school play... I 
> believe they are doing the Columbus story. My information on Portugese 
> clothing of that time is very thin... would it be safe to use Spanish 
> sources? English?
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] kid leather & binding stays
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 21:56:06 +0200
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Hi Carol,
Yes i know it would be best with cotton or linnen, but really for reenacting 
will it really be worned this much?

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <aquazoo@patriot.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 9:50 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kid leather & binding stays


>
>     Glad I could help!  I've seen the Wissner in a thicker weight
> (probably for hoops rather than boning) which I can't imagine sewing
> through.  If the standard weight can be sewn, all the better!
>
>     I would suggest a nice cotton or linen tape for binding rather than
> silk.  Silk has poor abrasion resistance, and the edges of stays will
> get a lot of wear.
>
>     -Carol
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Museo de Traje
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In a message dated 4/13/2006 2:01:05 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
cinbarnes@gmail.com writes:

On the  side bar click: indumentaria histórica



Thanks for the lead, but I didn't see this on the initial sidebar.   Can you 
tell us what heading it is under?
 
Ann Wass
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Museo de Traje
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At 20:39 13/04/2006, you wrote:
>Wow, they have some really interesting 18thC 
>stuff that I've never seen before!
>
>By the way, there's an English version of the 
>site--on the front page, near the middle, you'll 
>see a link that says 'Welcome' which will lead 
>you to it. Also, you have to go to Gallery under 
>Collections before you can get to the 
>indumentaria histórica/ historical dress 
>section, and you may want to go straight to the 
>catalog section (under Collections) where you 
>can search for images.  Unfortunately, there's 
>no English version of the search engine.
>
>-E House USED to be a fluent Spanish-speaker...


I wish I'd known when I was in Madrid last year. 
I only managed two days at the Prado, one at the 
Borne Misza and two exhibitions in the Palacio 
Real during my 6 days there. I could have had 
another museum day! Seriously, I do wish I'd known.

Suzi



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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
<<Would someone please send the URL again?
Clumsy Bjarne who delited it!>>

http://museodeltraje.mcu.es

-E House

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Subject: [h-cost] Boise, Idaho, USA
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I find myself going to Boise the end of next month, and I'm wondering if there's anything of interest to costumers there?  I know the University of Idaho is there, but I have no idea what kind of library or museum they might have, or if there's anything else in town.  I'll be there on a weekday, and have most of the day to myself.

Melusine
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] girdle? was:] Photos
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 22:08:17 -0400
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On Thursday 13 April 2006 2:50 am, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> >Of course, there would still be art interpretation issues,
> >much as there are for miniatures (e.g., was this color chosen for its
> >symbolism?  or because it was an easily available paint pigment? or
> > because people actually wore it?)
>
> There's always a difference between dyestuff, for fabric, and paint
> pigment.  And what's good for one isn't necessarily good for the other.

That's true.  But I was thinking more along the lines of "certain shades are 
possible in paint that may not be possible in textile dyes, and vice versa."

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
--General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Portugal clothing in the 15th century
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 22:15:11 -0500
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During the 1500s I do believe that Portugal and Spain did not get along with
each other. Said to be like siblings trying to one up the other.
Then in 1580, Philip of Spain invaded and conquered Portugal. It was not
many years after this that you get the Jewish exodus from Spain and
Portugal. I think sometime after Holland became free of the Spanish rule as
many of the refugees went there.
I was told by someone who has research the 1500s Spain and Portugal but not
the 1400s said that the fashions were similar but there were differences.
Probably not much help but maybe something.
De


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Subject: [h-cost] Naming kids
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> 
> I think the identity problem is with 

Yes, the problem we will always have here is different names used by 
manufacturers and across national borders.

Here on the correct side of the Pacific, for instance, a bang, cotton, and a 
fringe have different meanings than are usual in North America.

When I go to the dealers to buy kid (leather, not half-built people) I expect a 
thinner, soft leather with a little bit of stretch to it. A skin will be around 
6 square feet in size and come from a young goat. One side is shiney in the 
traditional leather look, the reverse is more fibrous like suede. Colours can 
be standards like brown and black through to outrageous hot ones, all depending 
upon what has been done at the tannery. If you get lucky enough, you will find 
some that has been printed or stamped with a pattern.

Chamois is another kind of kid skin to my thinking, sometimes used for binding 
of clothing, often for gloves and so forth, but most commonly used for cleaning 
gooey bits of kangaroo off the grill of the Ford Falcon. It was marketed 
as "shammee" for many years.

Unfortunately, these are available in synthetics now. Fake chamois can be 
bought for cleaning purposes, it is somewhere between a loosely woven soft 
cloth and felt. Upholsterers have been using fake leathers for some time now 
including very soft vinyl they claim to be as close as kid as you can get -- of 
course, they can never show a kid skin with criss-cross fibres just under the 
surface!

Yeah, I know, all this is boring for most but we are all gonna keep an eye on 
language differences or we will be like the five blind men trying to describe 
an elephant.

By the way, kangaroo? Did I say kangaroo? If you like kid you will love 
kangaroo hide!

-C.


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I am selling a cotton ikat sari, approximately 5.5 yards long.  If interested please email me off list.

-Katie

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From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th  century men query
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>
>The new  book, "The Tudor Tailor" has a line drawing of almost exactly what
>you  want, on page 63. You would just have to make the hanging  sleeves.
>
>
>
>**************
>I don't see any breeches on page 63.
>
>I thought her dilemma was she cannot find a pictorial reference to a  doublet
>with long skirts worn with "breeches"....by which I think she means
>Venetians.

That is precisely it - and they are breeches that we have. (My 
husband used them for "any" period when required by the Royal 
Shakespeare Company for whom he worked.) They have a button fly, 
which I want to hide with the doublet.

>There is a rendering of a man in a skirted doublet [one looks like a
>jerkin] with paned hosen that come to just above the knee on pages 
>11, 15  and 19.
>The paintings these details are from are
>
>"The Fete at Bermondsey"  by Joris Hoefnagel c1570 [page 11]
>"The Embarkation at Dover" in the Royal Collection [page 15]
>and
>"The Field of the Cloth of Gold", also in the Royal Collection [Page  19]
>
>The whole paintings [I think] are on the "Contents" page....but get your
>magnifying glass out.

I have done this with all the paintings!! I have detailed blow up 
pictures of the two Henry Vlll paintings, but they are really too early.

>
>But that's the problem isn't it? Most renderings of a doublet with  Venetians
>are of the later short doublet with tassets.

Exactly.

>
>And again, these men all appear to be servants of some kind holding arms or
>something. But some are just dancing or socializing so you cannot 
>really  tell.

Like I said - me consort with a servant? I understand it's a very 
posh do we are invited to.

Ah well, someone somewhere must have worn them sometimes. Lack of 
evidence is not lack of fact, and there were an *awful lot* of people 
who were not painted.

Suzi





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Sorry, thought she needed a doublet.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of AlbertCat@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 7:13 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th century men query


 
In a message dated 4/13/2006 9:07:36 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sharon@collierfam.com writes:

The new  book, "The Tudor Tailor" has a line drawing of almost exactly what
you  want, on page 63. You would just have to make the hanging  sleeves.



**************
I don't see any breeches on page 63.
 
I thought her dilemma was she cannot find a pictorial reference to a
doublet 
with long skirts worn with "breeches"....by which I think she means  
Venetians. There is a rendering of a man in a skirted doublet [one looks
like a  
jerkin] with paned hosen that come to just above the knee on pages 11, 15
and 19. The paintings these details are from are
 
"The Fete at Bermondsey"  by Joris Hoefnagel c1570 [page 11] "The
Embarkation at Dover" in the Royal Collection [page 15] and "The Field of
the Cloth of Gold", also in the Royal Collection [Page  19]
 
The whole paintings [I think] are on the "Contents" page....but get your  
magnifying glass out.
 
But that's the problem isn't it? Most renderings of a doublet with
Venetians 
are of the later short doublet with tassets.
 
And again, these men all appear to be servants of some kind holding arms or

something. But some are just dancing or socializing so you cannot really
tell.
 
 
 
 
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From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th  century men query
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At 09:32 AM 4/13/2006, you wrote:
>I cannot find an image of a gentleman in breeches and skirted doublet for 
>about 1560-80.


When in doubt, I check Norris for leads. I know he redraws, but its a 
redraw from something original, even if it is partly made up or modified.

In this case, Charles IX by Francois Clouet, 1569.

http://tinyurl.com/hnlo7

There are a lot of his images. Go down just a little bit, and images #9 and 
#10 should do you right.

Seems that style is not much in fashion at that time, because it was the 
only one with such long skirts that I could find. Norris does show a 
Scottish nobleman, 1567 with skirts almost as long, but I don't know where 
the original image would be located to confirm.

Kimiko


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Museo de Traje
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In a message dated 4/13/2006 10:33:59 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

I could  have had 
another museum day! Seriously, I do wish I'd  known.



Well, now we all have another excuse to go back to Madrid!
 
Ann Wass
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Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 11:43:23 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th  century men query
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At 08:20 14/04/2006, you wrote:
>At 09:32 AM 4/13/2006, you wrote:
>>I cannot find an image of a gentleman in breeches and skirted 
>>doublet for about 1560-80.
>
>
>When in doubt, I check Norris for leads. I know he redraws, but its 
>a redraw from something original, even if it is partly made up or modified.
>
>In this case, Charles IX by Francois Clouet, 1569.
>
>http://tinyurl.com/hnlo7
>
>There are a lot of his images. Go down just a little bit, and images 
>#9 and #10 should do you right.
>
>Seems that style is not much in fashion at that time, because it was 
>the only one with such long skirts that I could find. Norris does 
>show a Scottish nobleman, 1567 with skirts almost as long, but I 
>don't know where the original image would be located to confirm.
>
>Kimiko
Thanks Kimiko, but I don't think it's quite what I am after - I 
trawled the Clouets already. I have a picture of a shorter doublet 
and Venetians which I may have to go with.

Suzi 


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Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 10:58:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kid leather & binding stays
From: aquazoo@patriot.net
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> Hi Carol,
> Yes i know it would be best with cotton or linnen, but really for
> reenacting will it really be worned this much?
>
> Bjarne

     I haven't reenacted much lately, but three years back I was wearing
the stays I made 15 and 20 years ago.  With the older set, I
reinforced the binding under the arms and repaired them a few times. 
Yes, we wear them quite a lot!

     I don't know how much your client will be wearing her stays.  A dance
once a year, or 30 weekends per year, or somewhere in-between?  I've
seen originals bound in linen tape (late 18thC) but I have not seen
any bound with silk.

     -Carol

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Did you ever read a graphic novel called "Motel of the Mysteries," 
featuring the archaelogical discovery of a 20th-century motel?

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

aquazoo@patriot.net wrote:
>      I'm imagining the reenactor of the future doing light research about
> people in the early 21stC wearing corn.  They will do extensive
> experiments with spinning and weaving the corn silk - we must have
> l
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Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 13:00:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Has anyone heard of the new fabric?
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     I'm imagining the reenactor of the future doing light research about
people in the early 21stC wearing corn.  They will do extensive
experiments with spinning and weaving the corn silk - we must have
lost that technology!

     And then someone will find a corn-husk doll and understand that it
was a realistic representation of dress.  But did people wear giant
corn husks, or make "feathered" garments with them?  What base fabric
did they use?  Can anyone help me with this research, someone said
they did not grow corn as large as we do today, but then I saw this
movie called "Sleeper" where obviously they did...

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Hi,
Have you seen the news about they want to find out the mystery of the new 
pyramids in Bosnia made 2000 years ago? Pyramids in Europe?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] off topic pyramids
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In a message dated 4/14/2006 3:10:10 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

Pyramids  in Europe?



****************
 
well they've got 'em in South and Central America too,  y'know.
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Two questions
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 15:41:19 -0600
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Speaking of stretching hats, is there any way to stretch out a leather 
cowboy hat?  I left mine in the back of my car on a hot summer day and 
it shrank. to where it won't fit any more.

Sylrog

On Apr 12, 2006, at 11:45 PM, AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

>
> In a message dated 4/13/2006 12:36:02 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> lalahcatlady@netscape.com writes:
>
> Can  anyone tell me how to stretch a cotton/rayon "cowboy" hat from a 
> size 6
> 3/4 to  a size 7?
>
>
>
> Does it have an interior band?  If so, you may have to remove  it.  If 
> not,
> just try steaming, steaming, with a teakettle if you don't  have a 
> proper
> steamer, then putting it on the right size form (or maybe even the  
> head will
> work).  However, sounds like said hat is cheap enough not to  bother, 
> nor might
> that steaming will even work.  But you aren't out much if  it doesn't. 
>  There are
> lots of sources for cheap cowboy hats out  there.  On-line, try 
> Shepler's.
> Around here, the Latino stores stock  straw ones--not felt, so much.
>
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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In a message dated 4/14/2006 5:44:19 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sylvia@ntw.net writes:

Speaking  of stretching hats, is there any way to stretch out a leather 
cowboy  hat? 
***********************
 
I'm sure you can do that. They stretch gloves and shoes. You need to make  
the leather supple. I'm sure a shoe repair place [that stretches shoes] can help 
 you with what product will do that. Then you need some kind of form to 
stretch  the hat on. Are there no places that blocks hats in your area?



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I live in the Denver area and haven't come across any such place.  
Maybe I'll check a shoe repair shop.

On Apr 14, 2006, at 4:16 PM, AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 4/14/2006 5:44:19 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> sylvia@ntw.net writes:
>
> Speaking  of stretching hats, is there any way to stretch out a leather
> cowboy  hat?
> ***********************
>
> I'm sure you can do that. They stretch gloves and shoes. You need to 
> make
> the leather supple. I'm sure a shoe repair place [that stretches 
> shoes] can help
>  you with what product will do that. Then you need some kind of form to
> stretch  the hat on. Are there no places that blocks hats in your area?
>
>
>
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Subject: [h-cost] OT- reenacting was new fabric
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-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of h-costume-request@indra.com
Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 11:14 AM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 335

Send h-costume mailing list submissions to
	h-costume@mail.indra.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
	http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
Is that the one where they discover a toilet and decide it must have been an
altar for worship...gave lots of interesting reasons, one of them being its
important location in the house.  I think about that when we're all
discussing some artifact that we have absolutely no clue what it might have
been used for and wonder just how much our ancient ancestors must be
laughing at how far off we are <G>
Julie	
*****************
Did you ever read a graphic novel called "Motel of the Mysteries," 
featuring the archaelogical discovery of a 20th-century motel?

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

aquazoo@patriot.net wrote:
>      I'm imagining the reenactor of the future doing light research about
> people in the early 21stC wearing corn.  They will do extensive
> experiments with spinning and weaving the corn silk - we must have
> l



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Has anyone heard of the new fabric?
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In a message dated 4/14/2006 3:30:00 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

Did you  ever read a graphic novel called "Motel of the Mysteries," 
featuring the  archaelogical discovery of a 20th-century motel?
 
Rather OT, but required reading for all historians!
 
Ann Wass
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From: "Carolann Schmitt" <cschmitt@genteelarts.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Two questions
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 20:35:47 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 5:41 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Two questions
You can use a hat stretcher like this one:
http://www.benderhats.com/hatstretcher.html

I would try using just the stretcher first before adding a softener like
Lexol.

Carolann Schmitt
cschmitt@genteelarts.com
www.genteelarts.com
Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 1-4, 2007




Speaking of stretching hats, is there any way to stretch out a leather 
cowboy hat?  I left mine in the back of my car on a hot summer day and 
it shrank. to where it won't fit any more.

Sylrog




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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] off topic pyramids
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Hi again,
Its a small town in Bosnia where the mountain outside has the shape of a 
pyramid. They found out they have long cave paths to other pyramids. Now 
they want to examin those for real. I really dont believe it, because that 
mountain (wich i saw in the tele) is huge, and it would be the worlds 
biggest pyramid then.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 9:08 PM
Subject: [h-cost] off topic pyramids


> Hi,
> Have you seen the news about they want to find out the mystery of the new 
> pyramids in Bosnia made 2000 years ago? Pyramids in Europe?
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Has anyone heard of the new fabric?
From: aquazoo@patriot.net
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Yes.  Does it show?  :-D

I especially liked the ceremonial collar.  (See, I knew it had some
costume content!)

     -Carol

> Did you ever read a graphic novel called "Motel of the Mysteries,"
> featuring the archaelogical discovery of a 20th-century motel?
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
> aquazoo@patriot.net wrote:
>>      I'm imagining the reenactor of the future doing light research
>> about
>> people in the early 21stC wearing corn.  They will do extensive
>> experiments with spinning and weaving the corn silk - we must have
>> l


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Subject: [h-cost] Dyed fur-history?
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Have you seen any references to dying fur, not just the leather, in 
anything from 1100-1600?    I've only seen one reference to fur of 
purple, but I am not sure it was dyed. I figured they dyed leather, 
hair, and cloth...you'd think someone would have thought of it....

Thanks,

Sg

I've asked this before (a few years ago) and not gotten any leads, but I 
know there are new people on the list whose experiences and reading 
might have come across this.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Two questions
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my (almost) local hat store will stretch hats.

liz young (near sacramento)

Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
> I live in the Denver area and haven't come across any such place.  Maybe 
> I'll check a shoe repair shop.
> 
> On Apr 14, 2006, at 4:16 PM, AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> 
>> In a message dated 4/14/2006 5:44:19 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>> sylvia@ntw.net writes:
>>
>> Speaking  of stretching hats, is there any way to stretch out a leather
>> cowboy  hat?
>> ***********************
>>
>> I'm sure you can do that. They stretch gloves and shoes. You need to make
>> the leather supple. I'm sure a shoe repair place [that stretches 
>> shoes] can help
>>  you with what product will do that. Then you need some kind of form to
>> stretch  the hat on. Are there no places that blocks hats in your area?
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Two questions
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Curious...when we were in Austin, TX. in the '90s, I was amazed to see as
many shoe/hat reconditioning/ cleaning establishments as Cleaners!  Or so it
seemed.  I made the assumption that this might be typical of most Western
states. Once or twice I have seen discreet signs where one might be buying
Stetsons, of a hat cleaning service available...
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Elizabeth Young" <lizyoung@fenris.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2006 1:04 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Two questions


> my (almost) local hat store will stretch hats.
>
> liz young (near sacramento)
>
> Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
> > I live in the Denver area and haven't come across any such place.  Maybe
> > I'll check a shoe repair shop.
> >
> > On Apr 14, 2006, at 4:16 PM, AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> >
> >> In a message dated 4/14/2006 5:44:19 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> >> sylvia@ntw.net writes:
> >>
> >> Speaking  of stretching hats, is there any way to stretch out a leather
> >> cowboy  hat?
> >> ***********************
> >>
> >> I'm sure you can do that. They stretch gloves and shoes. You need to
make
> >> the leather supple. I'm sure a shoe repair place [that stretches
> >> shoes] can help
> >>  you with what product will do that. Then you need some kind of form to
> >> stretch  the hat on. Are there no places that blocks hats in your area?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> h-costume mailing list
> >> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Okay, following on from that information, was houndstooth check used
during the 18th century?


Karen
Seamstrix



On Sun, 9 Apr 2006 22:25:29 -0400 Catherine Olanich Raymond
<cathy@thyrsus.com> writes:
> On Sunday 09 April 2006 11:03 pm, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
> > If memory serves, I believe that houndstooth twill is in:
> > North European Textiles Until AD 1000 by Lise Bender Jorgensen. 
> Aarhus Univ
> > Pr (1992), Hardcover ISBN 8772884169
> >
> > I can check for you tomorrow if needed.
> 
> There's a nice picture of houndstooth in Margrethe Hald's "Ancient 
> Danish 
> Textiles" also.  The picture looks as though the check is in a 
> contrasting 
> color (it's a black and white photo), but the text claims that the 
> effect 
> comes from using threads of different spin directions instead (a 
> kind of 
> shadow check effect, I suppose).
> 
> -- 
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
> 
> "I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
> --General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)
> 
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> 
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Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 22:53:16 -0400
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Subject: [h-cost] Arrowhead Reinforcement
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There are clear diagrams and instructions for arrowheads in these:

The New Butterick Dressmaker  by Jacques Worth, Butterick Publishing 
Co. 1927  on pages 204-5

Sewing Made Easy  by Mary Lynch & Dorothy Sara  Garden City Books  
1950, 1952 & 1960  page 247

Almost every sewing book that I've seen pubbed in the 1st half of the 
20th century has these.  They may be hidden away in some obscure & 
unlikely spot, but they are usually there.  Sometimes in the 
embroidery section, sometimes in with the pockets (to reinforce the 
ends of the slit), sometimes in with the weird little things to do 
with darts.

If you can't find good instructions, let me know, & I'll send 
photocopies. 

Yours, 

Mary

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Subject: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor
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Greetings,

Would someone in the US who's received their copy of the Tudor Tailor 
and is willing to share information please contact me offlist?  Mine has 
been "delayed," and I need to check on something...

Many thanks,
Melanie Schuessler

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Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2006 13:19:22 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor....a review
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I don't mean to be a stick in the mud but:
 
All this oooing and ahhhing over this book has me stumped. I find it a  
mediocre affair. Not awful or anything, but certainly not great. All the info  can 
be had elsewhere without much effort. And, though the men's things look  
pretty good, there is something unconvincing about all the clothes. They look  
costume-y to me. I can't quite put my finger on why. Maybe it's because  
everything looks like it's hot off the sewing machine. Maybe it's what to me  looks 
like skimpy yardages... especially in the French Farthingale gowns  department. 
Maybe it's the store bought trim on the Henry VIII doublet.
 
I find the patterns basic at best. Very unsophisticated. I could have  
drafted most of the men's stuff by looking at paintings. And the women's  patterns 
can just about all be found in Janet Arnold [plus some of the men's] or  Jean 
Hunnisette.
I think if you can understand such patterns, you are to a point where you  
don't need instructions to put the things together.
And speaking of instructions, they are very uneven. You get complete  
pictorial directions for fitting men's hose [the best thing in the book....very  very 
helpful!!!] but their instructions for making a ruff are: "Starch ruff  using 
preferred method. Set pleats using curling tongs". Geee...thanks!
 
Ok ok...some praise.  Like the men's hose section, the headdress  section is 
very inclusive and helpful for the most part. But, again, I find the  Gable 
hood pictured not convincing at all. It stands away from the head too much  and 
the crossed, striped pieces over the forehead look nothing like  paintings.
 
Some other problems...like I mentioned, the French Farthingale gowns look  
skimpy in the skirts....and on top of that the whole ensembles look unruly. This 
 can be because we modern folk just don't have it down when it comes to 
pinning  and tacking these complicated contraptions together....a daily chore in 
the  period.
And the back view of the early Tudor gown on page 110....look at it. The  
side back pieces are not cut symmetrically. That bold pattern is off by what  
must be 1/2 an inch or more!
 
To sum up this rant:
The book has some very useful info in it, especially concerning men's hose  
and ladies' head gear. And it's convenient to have it all in one place....men  
and women. 
But it's very basic and uneven. Honnisette's book has better instructions  
for what are practically identical patterns....which if you can understand from  
this book, you probably don't need instructions.
Examples in the book look costume-y and have skimpy yardages and even  cutt
ing boo-boos.
 
It's well worth having the book. But it's not my favorite by a long  shot.
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Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2006 12:47:23 -0500
From: "Marie Stewart" <maricelt@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor....a review
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I agree.  ;>

The book does however, just cover that area of teaching that I needed
it to cover, the "I'm curious and want to look right(er),  but I don't
really want to learn the skills to make it" personality that I
occaisionally run across.

I'll use it as a teaching tool....

Mari / Bridgette

On 4/16/06, AlbertCat@aol.com <AlbertCat@aol.com> wrote:
> I don't mean to be a stick in the mud but:
<snip>
> The book has some very useful info in it, especially concerning men's hose
> and ladies' head gear. And it's convenient to have it all in one place....men
> and women.
> But it's very basic and uneven. Honnisette's book has better instructions
> for what are practically identical patterns....which if you can understand from
> this book, you probably don't need instructions.
> Examples in the book look costume-y and have skimpy yardages and even  cutt
> ing boo-boos.
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor....a review
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2006 13:08:02 -0500
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I haven't received my copy yet--I've been having really bad luck with 
pre-orders lately!--but I want to make a few comments anyway, particularly 
on the skimpy yardage issue.  I think we have a false idea of how much 
yardage they did use; this might not be surprising, considering how lush 
many paintings make dresses look, but if you examine the yardage given in 
inventories and in the few survivng pattern books, you might find those very 
skimpy indeed, in terms of the modern yardage used to make the same styles. 
In other words, I think Ninya et al have research to back up the skimpiness. 
Speaking of which, there's certainly a lot of evidence to back up mismatched 
patterns on fabric as well!

The headwear, though, based on what I've seen of their work in general, I do 
have serious reservations about.  I fall into the 
French-hoods-lay-flat-or-at-least-flattER camp, and though I have seen one 
or two paintings/images of hoods that stand up a bit (like the recent 
profile portrait of Mary that was discussed here a few weeks back), it's 
generally like nails on a chalkboard for me to see an otherwise accurate 
recreation of a style spoiled by a hood that stands up like that, especially 
when it clearly doesn't in the original.  Also, I am bothered by the 
whatchamacallits, the striped and crossed strips 'padding' on the gable 
headdresses. I have yet to see a recreation of those that looked RIGHT to 
me, and it's frustrating, since I don't have any bright ideas for how to 
make them look right, either, apart from actually stuffing them in some 
complicated way to make them puffy but not TOO puffy.

But I'm still very much looking forward to finally getting the book!  And 
I'm a bit relieved that I'm not the only one who has yet to receive her 
pre-ordered copy--anyone else not have theirs yet?  I just sent a slightly 
panicky email to Ninya because I couldn't find any record of the order in my 
Paypal account!

-E House
PS--I don't have my pre-ordered new Geoff Egan book, either.  Talked to 
Amazon, and it turns out that they basically put the non-preorders ahead of 
the pre-orders in line, because the pre-orders had been bought at a 
discounted price.  Then they ran out before they got around to filling all 
the pre-orders.  Infuriating!  So now my book, pre-ordered sometime around 
the beginning of Dec 2005, will arrive at the earliest by the middle of May 
2006. I don't think I'm going to bother to pre-order anymore. 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor....a review
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In a message dated 4/16/2006 2:09:55 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
formfunc@formfunction.org writes:

In other  words, I think Ninya et al have research to back up the skimpiness. 
 
Speaking of which, there's certainly a lot of evidence to back up  mismatched 
patterns on fabric as well!



*****************
 
I will agree with you wholeheartedly.
 
But, accurate or not...it still looks bad. What about the way it looks?  
Doesn't that matter to reenactors too?
 
And there's no excuse for a 1/2 inch miss-match unless you're cutting from  
scraps....and they weren't. [I have been guilty of it  too]
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor....a review
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OK, now I'm curious. I haven't seen the book, and the descriptions I've
seen range so far that it's hard to figure out that they're all talking
about the same thing.

So. In terms of approach (not subject matter), is this book closer to
Janet Arnold, e.g. "here's detailed, strictly documented information on
specific existing pieces of clothing, which may or may not be
representative, and which may or may not work for you in practice,
depending on your understanding of period techniques"? Or is it closer to
Sarah Thursfield, e.g. "here's how to make various style of period
clothing, based on what I understand of period practice, but with some
gaps filled in for purposes of the modern costumer"? Or something else?

--Robin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor....a review
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
> But, accurate or not...it still looks bad. What about the way it looks?
> Doesn't that matter to reenactors too?
>
> And there's no excuse for a 1/2 inch miss-match unless you're cutting from
> scraps....and they weren't. [I have been guilty of it  too]

Well, I definitely prefer the fuller look myself!  But I want to at least 
know what the skimpy-but-accurate look actually looks like before I go on to 
try to get a 9yd+ hem out of 5 yds fabric. =}  I also go to great lengths to 
match patterns on fabric, sigh.  I wonder if they got a hunk of fabric like 
the one I am saving for a special project, where the pattern is off-center 
on the cloth by two or three inches?  If I were to double it over and cut 
both right and left at once, I'd wind up very off-kilter, unless I 
remembered to waste that 2 or 3 inches by not folding the cloth exactly in 
half.  I hate matching patterns.  Hate.

-E House





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Subject: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor....a review 
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-----Original Message-----
**No relations here, but my comments below**
 
All this oooing and ahhhing over this book has me stumped. I find it a  
mediocre affair. Not awful or anything, but certainly not great. 

**I find it clear with good diagrams and lots of color pictures**
 
I find the patterns basic at best. Very unsophisticated. I could have  
drafted most of the men's stuff by looking at paintings. And the women's
patterns 
can just about all be found in Janet Arnold [plus some of the men's] or
Jean 
Hunnisette.

**Maybe -you- can draft them, I can't.  I own Hunnisette, Arnold, QEWU,
Medieval Tailor's Assistant, and several others.  I've been looking back and
forth among them to finally understand what I want to make and how to go
about it.  I'm finding the Tudor Tailor much friendlier to a novice
costumer.**

I think if you can understand such patterns, you are to a point where you  
don't need instructions to put the things together.
**I wish**

And speaking of instructions, they are very uneven. You get complete  
pictorial directions for fitting men's hose [the best thing in the
book....very  very 
helpful!!!] but their instructions for making a ruff are: "Starch ruff
using 
preferred method. Set pleats using curling tongs". Geee...thanks!

**I have to admit to disappointment with the ruff instructions and I have
discussed this with the author.  I'm on the Tudor Tailor-specific Yahoo
group, which has been also very informative.**
 
Ok ok...some praise.  Like the men's hose section, the headdress  section is

very inclusive and helpful for the most part. But, again, I find the  Gable 
hood pictured not convincing at all. It stands away from the head too much
and 
the crossed, striped pieces over the forehead look nothing like  paintings.
 
It's well worth having the book. But it's not my favorite by a long  shot.

**I'm thrilled with it.  I preordered, and wasn't disappointed.**

------------------------------

The book does however, just cover that area of teaching that I needed
it to cover, the "I'm curious and want to look right(er),  but I don't
really want to learn the skills to make it" personality that I
occaisionally run across.  I'll use it as a teaching tool....

**If we could get our group to look this good we'd be better than most of
what I'm seeing out there.**

Julie in San Diego
(Melanie - I have mine and I'll share info)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Has anyone heard of the new fabric?
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What I liked was the toothbrush earrings.  That book is priceless.

Fran

aquazoo@patriot.net wrote:
> Yes.  Does it show?  :-D
> 
> I especially liked the ceremonial collar.  (See, I knew it had some
> costume content!)
> 
>      -Carol
> 
> 
>>Did you ever read a graphic novel called "Motel of the Mysteries,"
>>featuring the archaelogical discovery of a 20th-century motel?
>>
>>Fran
>>Lavolta Press
>>http://www.lavoltapress.com
>>
>>aquazoo@patriot.net wrote:
>>
>>>     I'm imagining the reenactor of the future doing light research
>>>about
>>>people in the early 21stC wearing corn.  They will do extensive
>>>experiments with spinning and weaving the corn silk - we must have
>>>l
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor....a review
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I think, closer to Thursfield from your description (although I've not
actually heard of Thursfield before?), given what I saw of the book (haven't
ordered my copy yet).  They were definitely assuming some basic sewing
knowledge, so it's not as basic as, say, Winter and Savoy, but it's not the
archaeological/historical text that Arnold is, either.
I didn't spend more than 5 or 10 minutes looking at my friend's copy, but
these are the impressions I got:
--At cursory glance, the people and outfits looked pretty good--at least
like really good theatrical stuff without the shortcuts
--It was particularly nice to see clothing that was not entirely royal/upper
class, and of both genders
--They covered a good part of Tudor/Elizabethan clothing
--It seemed, at cursory glance, to be skimpy in the juicy details.  Almost
more like a coffee table costuming book than a down-and-dirty-in-the-sewing
room how-to book
--I will definitely purchase one, but I wouldn't rely on it as my sole
source for 16th century English clothing by any means
--I don't recall seeing an extensive bibliography or list of sources, but it
may have been in there and I just didn't catch it.  If not, it would have
been nice to see--say, available articles on knitting one's own stockings,
or sources for fabrics, etc., as well as primary sources (extant garments,
portraiture, etc.)
--I also thought "dang, but it's a shame we don't have something like this
for earlier time periods.  ;o)"
--Sue's two pence worth (handily fueled by Dove chocolate eggs and Easter
brunch....mmm....lamb...mmmm)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 1:40 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor....a review


>
> OK, now I'm curious. I haven't seen the book, and the descriptions I've
> seen range so far that it's hard to figure out that they're all talking
> about the same thing.
>
> So. In terms of approach (not subject matter), is this book closer to
> Janet Arnold, e.g. "here's detailed, strictly documented information on
> specific existing pieces of clothing, which may or may not be
> representative, and which may or may not work for you in practice,
> depending on your understanding of period techniques"? Or is it closer to
> Sarah Thursfield, e.g. "here's how to make various style of period
> clothing, based on what I understand of period practice, but with some
> gaps filled in for purposes of the modern costumer"? Or something else?
>
> --Robin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor....a review 
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In a message dated 4/16/2006 3:48:46 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
jtknits@jtknits.cts.com writes:

I think  if you can understand such patterns, you are to a point where you   
don't need instructions to put the things together.
**I  wish**



********************
 
 
I'm sure you are greatly underestimating your abilities!
 
I remember when I was learning in school. I used to think how complicated  
and overwhelming these strange and elaborate ensembles were. And in a way they  
certainly are. But, it's just like when a student asked the designer of  
"Nutcracker" there at the time: 'How do you design this monster?" She said "Well  
how do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time."
 
 It was a great help to me when I started thinking in terms of  [what the 
Brits like to call] "bits". You do each little bit of a costume, then  assemble 
the whole thing out of finished [or almost finished] bits. 
 
The sleeve, the bodice, the skirt...all bits you can usually tackle like  
each was a solo project. [especially in this period]  But  they aren't solo 
projects so that's why the design needs to be rendered and  worked out before hand. 
We've all seen the results of not thinking it  through.
 
 
But don't misunderstand my picky criticism of the "The Tudor Tailor". It is  
a genuinely helpful volume that will be a gold mine to many. It's just a lot 
of  it was old hat to me.
 
All these volumes, Arnold, Hunnisett, and so on compliment each other and I  
recommend consulting all of them if you can. Everyone works differently and 
will  glean different things from a combination of great and helpful  sources.
 
Now...stop knocking your sewing skills and cut that gown  out!
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor....a review
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On Sun, 16 Apr 2006, Sue Clemenger wrote:

> I think, closer to Thursfield from your description (although I've not
> actually heard of Thursfield before?),

The Medieval Tailor's Assistant.

> --I also thought "dang, but it's a shame we don't have something like this
> for earlier time periods.  ;o)"

That would be Thursfield.

--Robin

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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10604161626130.1762-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor....a review
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Ahh...thanks.  That's one I've heard of, but not seen/purchased.
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 3:26 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor....a review


>
> On Sun, 16 Apr 2006, Sue Clemenger wrote:
>
> > I think, closer to Thursfield from your description (although I've not
> > actually heard of Thursfield before?),
>
> The Medieval Tailor's Assistant.
>
> > --I also thought "dang, but it's a shame we don't have something like
this
> > for earlier time periods.  ;o)"
>
> That would be Thursfield.
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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These are interesting comments -  I got my copy and am happy with it.  I 
don't think it was meant to be a scholarly book, nor a step by step 
guide to how to make these articles of clothing.  I don't think you can 
convey all the things you need to make excellent garments in a book.  
Even Margo's patterns, which have detailed instructions, will not get 
you a great fitting, beautiful garment.  I have all of the books 
mentioned before, but what it really takes is lots of practice, lots of 
fiddling, and/or a skilled person to study with to produce excellent 
garments.

What I like about the book is that it is inspiring.  It is another 
example (I am thinking of Drea, and Margo here) of someone starting out 
where we all do, and then moving to a different level.  It is a great 
example of how hard work can get you, doing for a living,  what you love 
to do and how self publishing really is attainable for the 'average' guy. 

I don't need the book to help me figure what to do out anymore, but am 
very happy to have it in my collection as a reference to how other 
people "do it."  Are the gowns absolutely perfect?  No, but I can find 
faults with lots of other reconstructions - even the goddess Arnold's - 
the question may be, can I do them any better?

Further more, Ninya is generous, encouraging, and lacks some of the 
snoberism I have detected in some other people who have moved "up a 
notch" in the historical reconstruction world.

Sg



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor....a review
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At 12:40 PM 4/16/2006, you wrote:
>Or is it closer to
>Sarah Thursfield, e.g. "here's how to make various style of period
>clothing, based on what I understand of period practice, but with some
>gaps filled in for purposes of the modern costumer"?

Hi Robin,

It's closer to Sarah Thursfield recreation of a garment based on what we 
know, and that appears rather extensive on what they know. Not perfect, as 
some garments cannot be made from extent garments that don't exist (or are 
hiding really well). But they did do their research, and not just looking 
at paintings or illuminations, but effigies, letters, and wills as well.

Not perfect, but a damn site better than Winter/Savoy for beginners in 
making up garments that look truer to the period.

Kimiko


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At 01:32 PM 4/16/2006, you wrote:
>--I don't recall seeing an extensive bibliography or list of sources, but it
>may have been in there and I just didn't catch it.  If not, it would have
>been nice to see--say, available articles on knitting one's own stockings,
>or sources for fabrics, etc., as well as primary sources (extant garments,
>portraiture, etc.)


There is a very extensive bibliography in the back, several pages that 
follow along with the noted numbers in the front sections. Even the various 
redrawn images have notes as to where they originated from. There is even 
some sources for where to get supplies, both UK and US based.

Kimiko


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Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2006 15:50:34 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor....a review
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Hello,

It's ok that you have a negative perspective on the book, and I thank you 
for sharing that as we all needed a critical and honest look. I actually 
was rather pleased with the book.

At 10:19 AM 4/16/2006, you wrote:
><snip>>
>pretty good, there is something unconvincing about all the clothes. They 
>look
>costume-y to me. I can't quite put my finger on why. Maybe it's because
>everything looks like it's hot off the sewing machine.

They look like clothes to me, compared to the many costume-y garments I see 
at various faires in my area. And reading the book, there is a lot of hand 
sewing going on in the directions. About the only machine sewing I am 
reading (and I am by no means done reading) is the side and back seams, the 
lining is noted as going in by hand.

>  I find the patterns basic at best. Very unsophisticated. I could have
>drafted most of the men's stuff by looking at paintings.

To my perspective, all patterns at it's root during this time are basic. 
Rectangles, form fitting shapes, draped sleeves based again on rectangles. 
Looking at Bruegel recently I noted a number of rectangles and basic 
patterns at the root of the peasant's garments.

>And the women's  patterns
>can just about all be found in Janet Arnold [plus some of the men's] or  Jean
>Hunnisette.

Agreed. Which is a good thing to my mind as I would be a bit concerned if 
her patterns didn't look similar.

>I think if you can understand such patterns, you are to a point where you
>don't need instructions to put the things together.

Perhaps for some of us who have done this for awhile, but I see this as a 
good book for beginners to learn from as well.

><snip>> but their instructions for making a ruff are: "Starch ruff  using
>preferred method. Set pleats using curling tongs". Geee...thanks!

They also include a picture of a woman setting a ruff, which helps more 
than just words can sometimes do. But that last part was at the end of 
basic instructions for how to make the ruff to begin with.

><snip>>But, again, I find the  Gable
>hood pictured not convincing at all. It stands away from the head too 
>much  and
>the crossed, striped pieces over the forehead look nothing like  paintings.

That is the gable hood without the "undercap front", which is why it looks 
odd. I think they did that to show the bound hair crossed over the head, 
which is one theory of what those striped pieces were supposed to be, 
covered or just with a ribbon binding. Her directions actually call for 
striped silk for the hair casings.

>  Some other problems...like I mentioned, the French Farthingale gowns look
>skimpy in the skirts....and on top of that the whole ensembles look 
>unruly. This
>  can be because we modern folk just don't have it down when it comes to
>pinning  and tacking these complicated contraptions together....a daily 
>chore in
>the  period.

Could be. A friend made up the Hunnisett gown, and it looked just as 
unruly, and skimpy in some ways.

>And the back view of the early Tudor gown on page 110....look at it. The
>side back pieces are not cut symmetrically. That bold pattern is off by what
>must be 1/2 an inch or more!

Wouldn't that be for the seam allowance for the back and side back pieces? 
Although I understand where that arrangement of pattern pieces comes from, 
I personally don't understand what they are supposed to do to the garment.

>  To sum up this rant:
>The book has some very useful info in it, especially concerning men's hose
>and ladies' head gear. And it's convenient to have it all in one 
>place....men
>and women.

Agreed. It also has a lot of background info all in one place, along with 
the patterns, which is great if you don't have Arnold or Hunnisett in your 
library already (which Hunnisett's books are getting harder and more 
expensive to buy, especially if you are new).

>But it's very basic and uneven. Honnisette's book has better instructions
>for what are practically identical patterns....which if you can understand 
>from
>this book, you probably don't need instructions.

While I have had a couple of items that I found confusing, for the most 
part I have been able to easily follow the directions in the book. The 
question is, how easy would beginners find the instructions? That I can't 
answer.

>Examples in the book look costume-y and have skimpy yardages and even  cutt
>ing boo-boos.

I don't agree, as at least in my area, if we could create and wear garments 
to this level, the look of the events would greatly increase. Perhaps it is 
the perspective of the areas we live and work for.

>It's well worth having the book. But it's not my favorite by a long  shot.
>_______________________________________________

For me, it has become a favorite for many reasons. A big part is the decent 
price and updated info all in one book.

There is a quote from the book that explains the writers' aim with this 
book. "There is an identifiable hierarchy of activities: replication, 
reconstruction and re-creation. The first is an attempt to duplicate an 
extant item exactly; the second involves some justifiable speculation; and 
the third uses guesswork and imagination. This book is primarily concerned 
with reconstruction."
I think they succeeded in their aim.

No, it isn't perfect, but it is a darn site better than most books 
available to the beginning to intermediate costumer, which either can be 
overwhelming in the amount of info, too expensive to buy unless you are 
serious, or feeds you wrong information in the guise of helping you to just 
get started. I have learned a bit more than I already did, and that is 
always a good thing.

Just my perspective.

Kimiko


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor....a review
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Thanks for pointing that out! I'll be looking forward to seeing it when I
get to order my own copy!  (Guess that's what I get for not getting to do an
in-depth look at the one my friend has, huh? <g>)
--Sue, who sometimes thinks that biblios are the best parts of books ;o)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 4:10 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor....a review


> At 01:32 PM 4/16/2006, you wrote:
> >--I don't recall seeing an extensive bibliography or list of sources, but
it
> >may have been in there and I just didn't catch it.  If not, it would have
> >been nice to see--say, available articles on knitting one's own
stockings,
> >or sources for fabrics, etc., as well as primary sources (extant
garments,
> >portraiture, etc.)
>
>
> There is a very extensive bibliography in the back, several pages that
> follow along with the noted numbers in the front sections. Even the
various
> redrawn images have notes as to where they originated from. There is even
> some sources for where to get supplies, both UK and US based.
>
> Kimiko


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor....a review
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2006 21:40:00 -0400
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On Sunday 16 April 2006 4:32 pm, Sue Clemenger wrote:
[snip]
> --I don't recall seeing an extensive bibliography or list of sources, but
> it may have been in there and I just didn't catch it. 

The formally named "Bibliography" is short but the authors say that most of 
their sources are cited in full in the endnotes, of which there are nearly 3 
pages, written three columns to a page in very small type. (pages 156-158 
inclusive).


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
--General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor....a review
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On Sunday 16 April 2006 6:50 pm, Kimiko Small wrote:
[snip]
> At 10:19 AM 4/16/2006, you [AlbertCat] wrote:
> ><snip>>
> >pretty good, there is something unconvincing about all the clothes. They
> >look
> >costume-y to me. I can't quite put my finger on why. Maybe it's because
> >everything looks like it's hot off the sewing machine.
>
> They look like clothes to me, compared to the many costume-y garments I see
> at various faires in my area. And reading the book, there is a lot of hand
> sewing going on in the directions. About the only machine sewing I am
> reading (and I am by no means done reading) is the side and back seams, the
> lining is noted as going in by hand.

I agree with Kimiko here.  The few outfits where I disagree I believe the 
problem can be attributed to a less than optimal fabric choice.  I would like 
to see more information about how to choose fabrics that are likely to look 
and behave appropriate in the next edition (assuming there is one!).

[snip]

> ><snip>>But, again, I find the  Gable
> >hood pictured not convincing at all. It stands away from the head too
> >much  and
> >the crossed, striped pieces over the forehead look nothing like 
> > paintings.
>
> That is the gable hood without the "undercap front", which is why it looks
> odd. I think they did that to show the bound hair crossed over the head,
> which is one theory of what those striped pieces were supposed to be,
> covered or just with a ribbon binding. Her directions actually call for
> striped silk for the hair casings.

The biggest problem I found so far is that the comments in the text on French 
hoods appear to disagree with directions given in the back for making the 
French hood.  The text says, for example, at page 28 that the foundation of 
all hoods was a separate linen undercap "which could be washed."  The French 
hood pattern makes a hood with an integral "bag cap" and implies that the 
"bag cap" part could be used to make a separate "undercap" instead.  

I'm also wondering what the evidence is for the "separate undercap" 
interpretation (though it seems rational enough) but it's possible it's 
included in the endnotes, which are written in teensy print which I haven't 
yet tried to read.


> >  Some other problems...like I mentioned, the French Farthingale gowns
> > look skimpy in the skirts....and on top of that the whole ensembles look
> > unruly. This
> >  can be because we modern folk just don't have it down when it comes to
> >pinning  and tacking these complicated contraptions together....a daily
> >chore in the  period.

I agree, but I also suspect it's a fabric choice problem.  


> No, it isn't perfect, but it is a darn site better than most books
> available to the beginning to intermediate costumer, which either can be
> overwhelming in the amount of info, too expensive to buy unless you are
> serious, or feeds you wrong information in the guise of helping you to just
> get started. I have learned a bit more than I already did, and that is
> always a good thing.

I agree with this opinion also.  No one book is, or should be, the be-all and 
end-all on any area of historic costume.  That doesn't mean that some books 
aren't worthy of praise for trying to support the efforts of those of us 
interested in reconstructing period costume.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish."
--General Fillmore (from "The Tick," episode 2)

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Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2006 23:40:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: Edith Reardon <edithreardon@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor....a review
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Amazon just keeps giving me a longer estimated date of delivery for Tudor Tailor.  After going thru my previous orders with Amazon I found out I had never received a book with estimated time of delivery date May 17 2002 -July 2 2002.  This book is still offered on their site?? and now it's cheaper than what I paid 4 yrs. ago.  I plan to cancel the order as soon as I get an explanation of why it wasn't shipped sometime in the last 4 yrs..  So far all I've got is past the buck and standard form returns.  Now I'm worried about getting this book so I email often.  
   
  Brin Kendall

E House <formfunc@formfunction.org> wrote:
  I haven't received my copy yet--I've been having really bad luck with 
pre-orders lately!--but I want to make a few comments anyway, particularly 
on the skimpy yardage issue. I think we have a false idea of how much 
yardage they did use; this might not be surprising, considering how lush 
many paintings make dresses look, but if you examine the yardage given in 
inventories and in the few survivng pattern books, you might find those very 
skimpy indeed, in terms of the modern yardage used to make the same styles. 
In other words, I think Ninya et al have research to back up the skimpiness. 
Speaking of which, there's certainly a lot of evidence to back up mismatched 
patterns on fabric as well!

The headwear, though, based on what I've seen of their work in general, I do 
have serious reservations about. I fall into the 
French-hoods-lay-flat-or-at-least-flattER camp, and though I have seen one 
or two paintings/images of hoods that stand up a bit (like the recent 
profile portrait of Mary that was discussed here a few weeks back), it's 
generally like nails on a chalkboard for me to see an otherwise accurate 
recreation of a style spoiled by a hood that stands up like that, especially 
when it clearly doesn't in the original. Also, I am bothered by the 
whatchamacallits, the striped and crossed strips 'padding' on the gable 
headdresses. I have yet to see a recreation of those that looked RIGHT to 
me, and it's frustrating, since I don't have any bright ideas for how to 
make them look right, either, apart from actually stuffing them in some 
complicated way to make them puffy but not TOO puffy.

But I'm still very much looking forward to finally getting the book! And 
I'm a bit relieved that I'm not the only one who has yet to receive her 
pre-ordered copy--anyone else not have theirs yet? I just sent a slightly 
panicky email to Ninya because I couldn't find any record of the order in my 
Paypal account!

-E House
PS--I don't have my pre-ordered new Geoff Egan book, either. Talked to 
Amazon, and it turns out that they basically put the non-preorders ahead of 
the pre-orders in line, because the pre-orders had been bought at a 
discounted price. Then they ran out before they got around to filling all 
the pre-orders. Infuriating! So now my book, pre-ordered sometime around 
the beginning of Dec 2005, will arrive at the earliest by the middle of May 
2006. I don't think I'm going to bother to pre-order anymore. 

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Unruly Skirts-was Tudor Tailor....a review
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I overlooked this in my original response, and I am not exactly sure 
which items you mean, but...  When researching my late Elizabethan, and 
trying to make a decieison on how to attach the skirt, I found that 
there were some gowns which had "highly regulated" pleated attachment, 
(with the pleats arranged very neatly, and consicely) 
(*http://tinyurl.com/hcceb)*, and others where the skirt appeared to 
simply be gathered, or arranged in varying sized pleats (though usually 
symetrically arranged), with the pinning done almost "free form."  
(*http://tinyurl.com/hqvss )*   This was a surprise to me when I really 
started looking hard at them.  In my mind, the "icon" had been only 
those with highly regulated pleating.

And depending on what you mean by "French Farthingale gowns" for 
yardage, there are examples of statuary with prettty small skirts (I 
mean if you compared the diameters of the "circles.")  On some, with a 
woman's arm next to them, their fingers would just reach the end of the 
skirt top, if they had their elbows right at their sides.  There are 
others, where if you compare the skirt top to the brim of hat, they only 
appear to be ~ six inches wide or so.  As I recall we used 11 yards of 
fabric for the inner gown (there were a total 44 in the entire 
ensemble),  At least-3 went into the bodice and sleeves, but that was a 
pretty big dang skirt.  *http://tinyurl.com/me7tq*

I also had thought the drum farthingale was alway symetrically round.  
Clearly this is not the case, though there is one gown on her site  
http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/Siobhan.html  (and her book)  where the 
flat side of the farthingale apears to be in back which I have never 
seen in portraiture....but then it wouldn't surprise me if they did 
that.  They had to get to the flat panier style of the late 1700's some 
how and it makes sense to me that the transition started by just 
whacking off the front and backs of the cartwheel farthingales, because 
they wanted to put their arms down, or be able to sit in a chair with a 
back on it!

Sg

AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

>Some other problems...like I mentioned, the French Farthingale gowns look  
>skimpy in the skirts....and on top of that the whole ensembles look unruly. 
>
>  
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor....a review
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In a message dated 4/16/2006 6:01:47 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
wickedfrau@msn.com writes:

and  lacks some of the 
snoberism I have detected in some other people who have  moved "up a 
notch" in the historical reconstruction  world.



****************
Now that I can agree with. The book is not unapproachable.
 
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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor....a review
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2006 20:25:07 -0400
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Status: RO

I have to add that after examining extant 18th C garments, I am amazed at
all the piecing that was used to get the whole costume out of a given fabric
yardage.Lots!! Matching patterns, never mind grain, did not seem to be a
high priority. Using today's fabric widths often prompts wider skirts or
fuller sleeves because our aesthetic consciousness allows for an opulence
that may never have been possible in times past.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 3:26 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor....a review


> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
> > But, accurate or not...it still looks bad. What about the way it looks?
> > Doesn't that matter to reenactors too?
> >
> > And there's no excuse for a 1/2 inch miss-match unless you're cutting
from
> > scraps....and they weren't. [I have been guilty of it  too]
>
> Well, I definitely prefer the fuller look myself!  But I want to at least
> know what the skimpy-but-accurate look actually looks like before I go on
to
> try to get a 9yd+ hem out of 5 yds fabric. =}  I also go to great lengths
to
> match patterns on fabric, sigh.  I wonder if they got a hunk of fabric
like
> the one I am saving for a special project, where the pattern is off-center
> on the cloth by two or three inches?  If I were to double it over and cut
> both right and left at once, I'd wind up very off-kilter, unless I
> remembered to waste that 2 or 3 inches by not folding the cloth exactly in
> half.  I hate matching patterns.  Hate.
>
> -E House
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor....a review
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Edith Reardon" <edithreardon@yahoo.ca>
> So far all I've got is past the buck and standard form returns.  Now I'm 
> worried about getting this book so I email often.  >>

You might try calling, as someone suggested on here for my problem a while 
back.  The number is 1-800-201-7575, and I got through with no waiting.  The 
person I talked to was helpful, and upgraded my shipping to 2-day mail.  Of 
course I'm still a bit fussed at Amazon for being kind of underhanded, but 
it was definitely worth calling--they never would have (hopefully) fixed the 
problem if I hadn't.

-E House



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From: Elizabeth <contessaisabel@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor....a review
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"Further more, Ninya is generous, encouraging, and lacks some of the
snoberism I have detected in some other people who have moved "up a
notch" in the historical reconstruction world."

Well said.
Elizabeth


On 4/16/06 6:01 PM, "WickedFrau" <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote:

> These are interesting comments -  I got my copy and am happy with it.  I
> don't think it was meant to be a scholarly book, nor a step by step
> guide to how to make these articles of clothing.  I don't think you can
> convey all the things you need to make excellent garments in a book.
> Even Margo's patterns, which have detailed instructions, will not get
> you a great fitting, beautiful garment.  I have all of the books
> mentioned before, but what it really takes is lots of practice, lots of
> fiddling, and/or a skilled person to study with to produce excellent
> garments.
> 
> What I like about the book is that it is inspiring.  It is another
> example (I am thinking of Drea, and Margo here) of someone starting out
> where we all do, and then moving to a different level.  It is a great
> example of how hard work can get you, doing for a living,  what you love
> to do and how self publishing really is attainable for the 'average' guy.
> 
> I don't need the book to help me figure what to do out anymore, but am
> very happy to have it in my collection as a reference to how other
> people "do it."  Are the gowns absolutely perfect?  No, but I can find
> faults with lots of other reconstructions - even the goddess Arnold's -
> the question may be, can I do them any better?
> 
> Further more, Ninya is generous, encouraging, and lacks some of the
> snoberism I have detected in some other people who have moved "up a
> notch" in the historical reconstruction world.
> 
> Sg
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor....a review
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In a message dated 4/17/2006 8:57:04 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
rmitchell@washjeff.edu writes:

Matching  patterns, never mind grain, did not seem to be a
high priority. 


*********************
 
I disagree. Just look at the 1st gowns in the Kyoto book. And there are  
period written accounts about the skills of tailors matching fabrics.
Of course lots of piecing goes on....especially if the gown is cut from  
another gown [and I'll bet the original gown matched], but I bet a lot of effort  
went into disguising piecing and matching things up whenever  possible.
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor....a review
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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Yes, the Fashion in Detail digrams in the 17th-18th volume and 19th
volume, detail that a lot of piecing was necessary whether a new garment
or one remodled or made from an older one. Fabric was very expensive and
labor was cheap which is the opposite of today. Every little bit of
fabric possible was used when needed and fashions, of course, changed
much more slowly than today.

I find often that the given yardage in today's patterns is often very
generous and I can often cut a garment for a doll or the rare times when
I sew for myself(where the fabric will work for a doll too)with enough
yardage to spare for said doll.  If you are 5'4" or less, you often need
less yardage, a rare benefit for us shorties out there!

Cindy Abel 

 

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From: "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Tudor Tailor....a review
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"Further more, Ninya is generous, encouraging, and lacks some of the
snoberism I have detected in some other people who have moved "up a
notch" in the historical reconstruction world."

Well said.
Elizabeth
===================================
Jane too :).

Catherine
who is still waiting for her copy too.


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From: "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
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Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 11:38:48 -0500
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Subject: [h-cost] Help identifying something
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Status: RO

Is anyone familiar with this painting: 
http://www.joslyn.org/permcol/euro/pages/veronese.html 

or have access to a larger or more detailed image?

I am trying to identify what that is dangling under her left arm.  My
initial guess is part of a chemise, since she appears to have shrugged
off a loose gown and there is no other layer in site.  Also, other
portraits of Venus around this time tend to have a chemise lying around
if she is nude :).

Any ideas?  Thanks,
Catherine
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From: "Lonnie D. Harvel" <aoghann@gmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor....a review
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Status: RO

> Perhaps for some of us who have done this for awhile, but I see this as a
> good book for beginners to learn from as well.

First, let me say that I am thoroughly enjoying my copy of the book.
But, I would never put it in the hands of a beginner. Well, let me be
careful, that would be based on what you mean by a beginner. If it is
a competent costumer who has not worked in the Tudor period, I would
have no problem at all. However, If you are talking about a competent
sewer, who has never worked in period costuming (or someone who has
never done much sewing at all), then this book would be a problem for
them. There are many assumptions about technique and terminology that
would completely lose a non-costumer. Things like "grown-in" collars
and such. More importantly, there is no clear indication of what
patterns go with what instructions and with what pictures of actual
clothing. Experienced costumers can sort it out, but beginners would
be absolutely lost.

For example, there is a picture of a man wearing a jerkin over a
doublet and hose that are slashed at the knee. The jerkin has a
collar, but the jerkin pattern does not. Also, the jerkin has puffed
sleeve caps, which the pattern also lacks. The doublet pattern is a
little easier to connect with the image. In both cases, you will need
to figure out which instructions apply to what. And so on. The text
does not even give hints as to which figure/diagram the instruction
applies to. If I was going to hand a doublet/jerkin pattern to a
beginner, it would probably be Simplicity 5574. The pattern is
identical to what is in the Tudor Tailer (and the Janet Arnold) but
with most of the guess work (and therefore some of the fit) taken out.
In fact, out of curiosity, I took the doublet I cut from the TT and
laid it on top of my copy of 5574 (which was real fun digging out of
my boxes, found lots of other neat stuff I had forgotton was in
there). Anyway, they lined up almost exactly.

Aoghann

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At 16:08 12/04/2006, you wrote:
> > In a message dated 4/12/2006 9:36:06 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> > suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:
> >
> > Many  extant corsets use chamois leather, like the leather you can use
> > to wash a  car with. There is often a small piece, about an inch deep
> > inside and out,  (sort of crescent shaped) under the arm towards the
> > front armscye, to  prevent chafing.
>
>
>      I've heard about using a wider piece of leather under the arms,
>although I haven't seen the originals with it.  The extant stays I've
>seen have a thin white leather for binding, with a smooth surface.
>The chamois that I've seen is yellow, and has a suede-like surface.
>I know people like to use chamois because they can find it easily and
>it's thin (nicer for hand stitching).  But I would like to hear more
>about the extant stays that use chamois leather for binding, and also
>those with the underarm reinforcement.  Where are they?  How often do
>those features show up in extant stays?
>
>      Or do you mean something different for chamois - is it available
>white and with a smooth surface?


I have found 5 photos of corsets that show the underarm piece I 
referred to. (Two are of the same corset.) As they are research 
photos, I cannot post them on a photo site, but am happy to send a 
jpeg to anyone who contacts me off list.

One is probably chamois, one may be chamois, one appears black in the 
photo, and one is ? They were mostly taken in museums with poor 
lighting so the colour is no guide.

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Innocent Traitor(fiction)by Alison Weir
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In a message dated 4/17/2006 12:58:43 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu writes:

Oh, darn  "Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII" yet another book from
the other  side of the pond I just have to have!  


*********************
 
 Is this the period du jour or what!
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Subject: [h-cost] 18thC stays crescent, was: kid skin
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> I have found 5 photos of corsets that show the underarm piece I
> referred to. (Two are of the same corset.) As they are research
> photos, I cannot post them on a photo site, but am happy to send a
> jpeg to anyone who contacts me off list.
>
> One is probably chamois, one may be chamois, one appears black in the
> photo, and one is ? They were mostly taken in museums with poor
> lighting so the colour is no guide.

Hi Suzi,

     We were talking about this underarm crescent on Historic Corsets. 
Martha mentioned two that used a plush fabirc, one that was quilted
linen, and one that was quilted chamois.  (Is that right, Martha?)
Also I noticed on the Bisonette page the crescent was at the back of
the armscey, not center and forward where you would place a sweat
sheild.  Plus they do not cover the edge of the stays, so it does not
offer extra reinforcement to the binding.

     So what was it for?

     I wonder if the plush or suede side leather was to hold the gown
fabric in that area?  Is there ever a bagging of the fabric there?

     Also, was it perhaps to compensate for a bit of back/arm flab?  Were
these particular stays large?  (Although a small person can have
flab, too.)

     Is there anything else about the stays that would indicate a
customization?  Alterations for better fit, or were they higher
quality stays?

     -Carol

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor...possitive stuff
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It's me again.
 
Was looking at my book this AM. Just to drive home that I do not hate this  
book or anything, and having gotten over the disappointments I had about it, I  
thought I'd point out some [more] things I like, beside those great pictorial 
 instructions for men's hose.
 
Remember the dress with the annoyingly just off, miss-matched back? [pg.  
110] Looking at it this morning, I find it one of the most convincing costumes  
in the book. [Hey...the veil covers the back anyway] The scale and proportions  
are harmonious and the yardages seem fine. The fabrics are OK [but almost a  
little too curtain-like....a real problem for designers these days. I once 
heard  a criticism of "Dangerous Liaisons" that "they all looked like they were 
wearing  curtains."]. And one thing I admire is how these girls really get that 
Henry  VIII female silhouette right. Not an easy silhouette either.
 
The man's costume that looks the most real to me is on page 103...the white  
doublet with the red paned hosen. Very good work [though I don't like that 
brown  lining to the hosen]. Not a fancy garment but again good proportions and 
it  looks livable. Much better than the fancy-schmancy outfit on page 98, with 
it's  sloppy canions and sagging jerkin.
 
Oops! got negative there for a minute. Sorry.
 
Being someone who has worked on period films and in lots of theatres, as  
well as made things out of the dinning room for community events, I'd definitely  
keep this book around the shop. If you had experienced people [even 
moderately  so] they could pick this volume up and churn out a very nice garment for 
that  costume they just added at the last minute....right from the book. And 
even for  that gown you have 3 week to do, this book is a good place to start. 
Most of my  complaints have to do with personal taste, and simply changing 
fabrics, or  adding yardage fixes most of those.
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This is a rather late response, but I would recommend _Hispanic Costume: 1480-1530_ by Ruth M. Anderson. It covers both Spanish and Portuguese fashion, apparently at the time they weren't very different. (And besides the appropriateness of the subject, the book's organization and detail pictures are amazing, _and_ it's in print for $29.00!) One caveat: it does focus on upper class garb; it works a lot with royal inventories as well as the pictorial sources.
	-s

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Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 19:23:30 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18thC stays crescent, was: kid skin
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At 18:45 17/04/2006, you wrote:
> > I have found 5 photos of corsets that show the underarm piece I
> > referred to. (Two are of the same corset.) As they are research
> > photos, I cannot post them on a photo site, but am happy to send a
> > jpeg to anyone who contacts me off list.
> >
> > One is probably chamois, one may be chamois, one appears black in the
> > photo, and one is ? They were mostly taken in museums with poor
> > lighting so the colour is no guide.
>
>Hi Suzi,
>
>      We were talking about this underarm crescent on Historic Corsets.
>Martha mentioned two that used a plush fabirc, one that was quilted
>linen, and one that was quilted chamois.  (Is that right, Martha?)
>Also I noticed on the Bisonette page the crescent was at the back of
>the armscey, not center and forward where you would place a sweat
>sheild.  Plus they do not cover the edge of the stays, so it does not
>offer extra reinforcement to the binding.
>
>      So what was it for?
>
>      I wonder if the plush or suede side leather was to hold the gown
>fabric in that area?  Is there ever a bagging of the fabric there?
>
>      Also, was it perhaps to compensate for a bit of back/arm flab?  Were
>these particular stays large?  (Although a small person can have
>flab, too.)
>
>      Is there anything else about the stays that would indicate a
>customization?  Alterations for better fit, or were they higher
>quality stays?


All the corsets that I have photos of, including the one I am 
wearing, have the crescent in the front armscye, which to my mind 
would stop any chafing. I don't believe they are sweat shields - that 
never occurred to me - but to protect against rubbing, and the 
possibility of whalebone poking through, as the leather type ones are 
tougher than the linen.

Suzi 


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Innocent Traitor(fiction)by Alison Weir
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 Is this the period du jour or what!


I think so! HBO(which I don't subscribe to) is airing a miniseries about
the latter part of the reign of Elizabeth I, starring Helen Mirren, this
Saturday  Has this been seen in the UK yet?

Also novelist Philippa Gregory has a novel coming out in Sept in the
UK(The Last Boleyn)about a relative of the Boleyns during the time of
Elizabeth I(not Lettice Knollys)whom I'm not sure is based on a real
Boleyn descendant or not.  This book will be published later in the US
as "The Boleyn Legacy"

There is always some Tudor book or whatever in the pipeline somewhere
and I've bought or read most of them I think!

Cindy Abel

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Catherine Kinsey wrote:
> Is anyone familiar with this painting: 
> http://www.joslyn.org/permcol/euro/pages/veronese.html 
> 
> or have access to a larger or more detailed image?
> 
> I am trying to identify what that is dangling under her left arm.  My
> initial guess is part of a chemise, since she appears to have shrugged
> off a loose gown and there is no other layer in site.  Also, other
> portraits of Venus around this time tend to have a chemise lying around
> if she is nude :).


It doesn't seem as if there is enough fabric for a chemise, but the 
image is so dark it's hard to make out how much might be in the shadow 
there. I enlarged it and lightened it, and can't quite tell. My guess 
would be it's a veil and some ribbons attached to her hair, if it's not 
just some random draping added for artistic value.

I want to know what the round thing under her left foot is. She seems to 
be standing on it. It looks like the ball foot of a chair, but the 
position she is in makes that impossible...



Dawn

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AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

> It's me again.
>  
> Was looking at my book this AM. Just to drive home that I do not hate this  
> book or anything, and having gotten over the disappointments I had about it, I  
> thought I'd point out some [more] things I like, beside those great pictorial 
>  instructions for men's hose.


Thanks for posting your review. You brought up a number of points about 
the book, and so did the others in the discussion, that it's helped me 
get a good feel for the content. It's nice to know what we're getting, 
and not getting, before we spend money. I was hoping for something new, 
some as-yet unknown secrets of costuming this period, so I think if I 
had bought it I'd have been disappointed too. I'll probably end up with 
the book eventually, but now that I know what's really in it, it's 
farther down my list.



Dawn


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Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 22:09:29 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Innocent Traitor(fiction)by Alison Weir
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At 19:15 17/04/2006, you wrote:
>
>
>  Is this the period du jour or what!
>
>
>I think so! HBO(which I don't subscribe to) is airing a miniseries about
>the latter part of the reign of Elizabeth I, starring Helen Mirren, this
>Saturday  Has this been seen in the UK yet?

Yes, but my comments are unprintable, as liberties, as usual, were 
taken with the facts.  And I like my historical films about real 
people, if purporting to be the real thing, to at least look 
something like the portraits, even if it doesn't matter to other viewers.


>Also novelist Philippa Gregory has a novel coming out in Sept in the
>UK(The Last Boleyn)about a relative of the Boleyns during the time of
>Elizabeth I(not Lettice Knollys)whom I'm not sure is based on a real
>Boleyn descendant or not.  This book will be published later in the US
>as "The Boleyn Legacy"

I am reading her book on Elizabeth "The Virgin's Lover". I suppose 
it's not bad, as a work of fiction, but i am not keen on her view of history.

>There is always some Tudor book or whatever in the pipeline somewhere
>and I've bought or read most of them I think!


Suzi


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Innocent Traitor(fiction)by Alison Weir
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 17:11:16 -0500
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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Yes, Suzi, I like my historic novels to stick to the facts when they
exist and not ignore them and the characters not to speak and think in
today's slang and psycho-babble. While I applaud Gregory and others for
taking a new slant on what-might-have-been, they go to far for us
historic purists in assigning today's "ripped from the headlines"
attitudes and thought processes.  But you gotta sell those novels and
appeal to as broad an audience as possible to make a living, I suppose.

Cindy Abel 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 4:09 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Innocent Traitor(fiction)by Alison Weir

At 19:15 17/04/2006, you wrote:
>
>
>  Is this the period du jour or what!
>
>
>I think so! HBO(which I don't subscribe to) is airing a miniseries 
>about the latter part of the reign of Elizabeth I, starring Helen 
>Mirren, this Saturday  Has this been seen in the UK yet?

Yes, but my comments are unprintable, as liberties, as usual, were taken
with the facts.  And I like my historical films about real people, if
purporting to be the real thing, to at least look something like the
portraits, even if it doesn't matter to other viewers.


>Also novelist Philippa Gregory has a novel coming out in Sept in the 
>UK(The Last Boleyn)about a relative of the Boleyns during the time of 
>Elizabeth I(not Lettice Knollys)whom I'm not sure is based on a real 
>Boleyn descendant or not.  This book will be published later in the US 
>as "The Boleyn Legacy"

I am reading her book on Elizabeth "The Virgin's Lover". I suppose it's
not bad, as a work of fiction, but i am not keen on her view of history.

>There is always some Tudor book or whatever in the pipeline somewhere 
>and I've bought or read most of them I think!


Suzi


_______________________________________________
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Motel of the Mysteries/ the Nacirema
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> I especially liked the ceremonial collar.  (See, I knew it had some
> costume content!)
>
>      -Carol
Sounds very much like the old "Body Ritual Among the Nacirema" an old
50s article spoofing Anthropology.
http://oak.cats.ohiou.edu/~thompsoc/Body.html
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Motel of the Mysteries/ the Nacirema
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Status: RO

That was great!  I never saw that one.

Thanks,

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Apr 17, 2006, at 9:01 PM, Cin wrote:

>> I especially liked the ceremonial collar.  (See, I knew it had some
>> costume content!)
>>
>>      -Carol
> Sounds very much like the old "Body Ritual Among the Nacirema" an old
> 50s article spoofing Anthropology.
> http://oak.cats.ohiou.edu/~thompsoc/Body.html
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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In a message dated 4/16/06 7:01:53 PM GMT Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

> And, though the men's things look  
> pretty good, there is something unconvincing about all the clothes. They 
> look  
> costume-y to me. I can't quite put my finger on why. Maybe it's because  
> everything looks like it's hot off the sewing machine. Maybe it's what to me 
>  looks 
> like skimpy yardages...

Although I agree that an awful lot of people who buy the book may not have 
need of the patterns (I myself don't), but I do know of quite a lot of people 
who have used the patterns to date, who don't have the ability to cut patterns 
from scratch using only paintings, etc (not everybody has that kind of 
'spatial' (for want of a better word) awareness - for them it has been helpful.

As to the above statement - this is harsh to say the least - not to mention 
fairly unfounded.

Ninya Mikhaila is one of the best historical costumers in the UK, if not the 
world (and no, she's not a friend - I have never met her).

And having seen several of the costumes 'in the flesh' I can attest that the 
fabric has not been skimped on (at least not in the outfits I've seen).  They 
may be machine made (I didn't look closely enough to pull the seams apart), 
but I believe they are, like all of Ninya's clothing, hand finished (if this is 
incorrect, no doubt someone will put me right).

Debbie.
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Here the picture of me while I am wearing it at the open air museum.
And an other one with my friend.
http://mystictimes.nl/Bliaut/Bliautaf.jpg
http://mystictimes.nl/Bliaut/Benf.jpg

Greetings,
       Deredere

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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: yardage required (Tudor Tailor Review) (was Re: [h-cost] Re:
	h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 337
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> In a message dated 4/16/06 7:01:53 PM GMT Daylight Time,
> h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
>
>> And, though the men's things look
>> pretty good, there is something unconvincing about all the clothes. They
>> look
>> costume-y to me. I can't quite put my finger on why. Maybe it's because
>> everything looks like it's hot off the sewing machine. Maybe it's what to me
>>  looks
>> like skimpy yardages...
>

I don't think I saw this original mesage -- ah well.

Anyway, I find it interesting that somebody would think that the clothes
are make from "skimpy yardage."  I don't know who made the original post
or what their experience is, but many of the gowns that I see at SCA
events (and I'm only picking on us) or in Dress Diaries on the web --
to my eyes at least -- use way too *much* fabric.  If you look at Juan
de Alcega (and similar books), you can see how much yardage is
generally required for various types of gowns.  I saw a mid-16th
century Italian Gown once (it *might* have been a Bronzino replication)
-- it was a *beautifully* done gown, but it looked like the wearer had
on Civil War Hoops underneath, the skirt was so full.

Based on what I see -- particularly us as Americans in the SCA -- think
that all medieval/renaissance gowns need 10+ yards of fabric, and they
don't.

just my $0.02
Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: Re: yardage required (Tudor Tailor Review) (was Re: [h-cost] Re:
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In a message dated 4/18/2006 10:30:41 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sfarmer@goldsword.com writes:

If you  look at Juan
de Alcega (and similar books), you can see how much yardage  is
generally required for various types of  gowns. 


*****************
 
Well, you get Juan's idea of what yardages should be.
 
And, accurate or not, if it's skimpy, it's  skimpy.
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	<20060418102745.uxcnv6njksc0ck0k@www.goldsword.com>
Subject: Re: yardage required (Tudor Tailor Review) (was Re: [h-cost]
	Re:h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 337
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 12:04:31 -0400
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This has been my take on the subject too. Years ago when I first connected
with the idea of historical costuming, I tended to use the yardages quoted
in novels and inventories in trying to construct, say a mid nineteenth
Century gown, which was often  10 yards.  It wasn't until I had opportunity
to view antique garments and to learn more about fabric production, that I
finally put it together that with average widths of 26/28", that the
garments in reconstruction would only be 5/6 yards of contemporary widths.
This made a huge impression on my research and craft. The CW garments that I
have, or have examined, average 4/5 yards around the bottom, which is about
3 1/2 or four panels of 45" fabric. With another yard and a half or two,
depending on the sleeve style, one can easily do the project with 5 1/2 or
six yards.
The same principle applies for some other historical periods.  Once the
shaping became the'cut 'and not the 'fit'does one need to allow for more
yardages...and expect to have a fair 'waste' pile.  This idea tells us
something about the availability of fabric in any width as well as something
about the wealth of the wearer.
I think the idea of 'skimpy' reflects perhaps some of the present aesthetic
view that revels in the volume of the drape.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 10:27 AM
Subject: yardage required (Tudor Tailor Review) (was Re: [h-cost]
Re:h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 337


>
> > In a message dated 4/16/06 7:01:53 PM GMT Daylight Time,
> > h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
> >
> >> And, though the men's things look
> >> pretty good, there is something unconvincing about all the clothes.
They
> >> look
> >> costume-y to me. I can't quite put my finger on why. Maybe it's because
> >> everything looks like it's hot off the sewing machine. Maybe it's what
to me
> >>  looks
> >> like skimpy yardages...
> >
>
> I don't think I saw this original mesage -- ah well.
>
> Anyway, I find it interesting that somebody would think that the clothes
> are make from "skimpy yardage."  I don't know who made the original post
> or what their experience is, but many of the gowns that I see at SCA
> events (and I'm only picking on us) or in Dress Diaries on the web --
> to my eyes at least -- use way too *much* fabric.  If you look at Juan
> de Alcega (and similar books), you can see how much yardage is
> generally required for various types of gowns.  I saw a mid-16th
> century Italian Gown once (it *might* have been a Bronzino replication)
> -- it was a *beautifully* done gown, but it looked like the wearer had
> on Civil War Hoops underneath, the skirt was so full.
>
> Based on what I see -- particularly us as Americans in the SCA -- think
> that all medieval/renaissance gowns need 10+ yards of fabric, and they
> don't.
>
> just my $0.02
> Susan
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> University of Tennessee
> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 12:40:04 EDT
Subject: Re: yardage required (Tudor Tailor Review) (was Re: [h-cost]
	Re:h-costume Dig...
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In a message dated 4/18/2006 12:10:04 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
rmitchell@washjeff.edu writes:

The CW  garments that I
have, or have examined, average 4/5 yards around the  bottom, which is about
3 1/2 or four panels of 45" fabric. 


*******************
1830's skirts will have a mere 3 1/2 yard hem sometimes. This looks  right if 
in proportion with the top...huge sleeves and such. 
It depends on the scale and balance of the whole garment.
When I make an 1860s gown, 3,  45" panels are usually plenty for  a skirt. 
But then the hoop underneath has to be the right scale. [interestingly,  
sometimes an 1840s or 50s gown requires more to look right]
Bustle gown regularly suffer from too full a drape or ruffle. There is  
something more realistic about skimpier ruffles sometimes.
 
I've seen lots of garments [usually on stage] that are too full.
 
It's balance and proportion....of the WHOLE OUTFIT that can make the  
difference.
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Apr 18 14:52:36 2006
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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I can understand from the many posts about this new book, that many are 
making this period.
May i ask you, have you considered to make something new from the book?
Is it going to be another style, than you normally do?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

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One thing i also wonder about this, is why did Diderot not show this in his 
encyklopedia?

Bjarne





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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <362.2dacc67.31767064@aol.com>
Subject: Re: yardage required (Tudor Tailor Review) (was Re:
	[h-cost]Re:h-costume Dig...
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 15:26:26 -0400
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Status: RO

I have an antique hoop from family that I use and my skirts re about 3
panels.  It fits just right.
Proportion says it all! One of the problems I have with the 'new' patterns
is that the bodice is usually for a modern fit and is too long for the
proportions viewed in Godey's and Peterson's. The two extant whole gowns I
own are slightly short waisted for me (re modern fit) but perfect for 19thC
wear.
In making Plus Size gowns,
 etc. for customers, it is sometimes a little dicey getting the right
proportion for the period.  For waisted gowns they usually think their waist
is somewhere ...(male or female)below the navel.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 12:40 PM
Subject: Re: yardage required (Tudor Tailor Review) (was Re:
[h-cost]Re:h-costume Dig...


>
> In a message dated 4/18/2006 12:10:04 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> rmitchell@washjeff.edu writes:
>
> The CW  garments that I
> have, or have examined, average 4/5 yards around the  bottom, which is
about
> 3 1/2 or four panels of 45" fabric.
>
>
> *******************
> 1830's skirts will have a mere 3 1/2 yard hem sometimes. This looks  right
if
> in proportion with the top...huge sleeves and such.
> It depends on the scale and balance of the whole garment.
> When I make an 1860s gown, 3,  45" panels are usually plenty for  a skirt.
> But then the hoop underneath has to be the right scale. [interestingly,
> sometimes an 1840s or 50s gown requires more to look right]
> Bustle gown regularly suffer from too full a drape or ruffle. There is
> something more realistic about skimpier ruffles sometimes.
>
> I've seen lots of garments [usually on stage] that are too full.
>
> It's balance and proportion....of the WHOLE OUTFIT that can make the
> difference.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 17:05:42 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Quick lace question
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I'm out of my period on this one. Can anyone give me a rough date/place
for when lace appears -- meaning something that would be recognized by a
modern person as "lace"? (I mean the trimming, not lacing cord or points.)

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Quick lace question
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 23:54:16 +0200
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Hi Robin,
If you look in the archives, i have posted a coupple of times about the 
first written proof of bobbin lace.
Dont remember the year and date for it. It was an italian letter and the 
lace worked on had 6 pairs of bobbins.

Bjarne

Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historic Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2006 12:05 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Quick lace question


>
> I'm out of my period on this one. Can anyone give me a rough date/place
> for when lace appears -- meaning something that would be recognized by a
> modern person as "lace"? (I mean the trimming, not lacing cord or points.)
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "Marie Stewart" <maricelt@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Quick lace question
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Hey there Robin...

There are two main ways to make lace...  start with cloth and put
holes into it to form the lace (punti tagliati, hedebo work, cut work,
embroidered lace) and the other way is to form lace from string by
forming a repetitive pattern that becomes the body of the work (bobbin
lace, tatting, knitted, knotwork)

All can create lace... cloth with a pattern of holes in it.  Woven
techniques are <i>perhaps</i> the oldest.  So can you give a little
more information of what you are looking for...  I'll dig through the
library.

Bridgette

On 4/18/06, Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
>
> I'm out of my period on this one. Can anyone give me a rough date/place
> for when lace appears -- meaning something that would be recognized by a
> modern person as "lace"? (I mean the trimming, not lacing cord or points.)
>
> --Robin

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Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 19:24:39 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Quick lace question
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On Tue, 18 Apr 2006, Marie Stewart wrote:

> There are two main ways to make lace...  start with cloth and put
> holes into it to form the lace (punti tagliati, hedebo work, cut work,
> embroidered lace) and the other way is to form lace from string by
> forming a repetitive pattern that becomes the body of the work (bobbin
> lace, tatting, knitted, knotwork)
> 
> All can create lace... cloth with a pattern of holes in it.  Woven
> techniques are <i>perhaps</i> the oldest.  So can you give a little
> more information of what you are looking for...  I'll dig through the
> library.

No library digging needed for this one, I think; I suspect you can give me
enough for my purposes off the top of your head!

Here's the situation: I'm editing an article that refers to depictions of
the Virgin in 14th and 15th century European paintings as showing clothes
decorated with such rich ornamentations as "ermine, jewels, and pure gold
lace." I'm quite familiar with the paintings of this period, and I've
never seen anything in them that could reliably be called "gold lace," so
I suspect that the author (not being a costume person) is misapplying a
modern term to another type of decoration. She probably just means trim
borders or embroidery, but I can't put words into her mouth. In asking her
exactly what it is she's trying to call attention to, I need to explain
that the wording she's used won't work, because lace (as readers would
interpret the term) wasn't used yet. I'd like to be on firm ground when I
say that, and it would help if I could say that "what is commonly thought
of as lace trim on clothing doesn't appear until X period; I suspect
you're describing something else."

So, I don't need a specific date for the technique, just a ballpark
half-century or quarter-century in which something visibly recognizable as
"lace" became commonly used as clothing decoration. I know I see
recognizable lace all over Elizabethan art, and I don't see it in 14th
century art. But I don't have a sense for when exactly it starts cropping
up as a typical feature in depictions of clothing.

--Robin



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>So, I don't need a specific date for the technique, just a ballpark 
>half-century or quarter-century in which something visibly 
>recognizable as "lace" became commonly used as clothing decoration. 
>I know I see recognizable lace all over Elizabethan art, and I don't 
>see it in 14th century art. But I don't have a sense for when 
>exactly it starts cropping up as a typical feature in depictions of 
>clothing.

      In the 18th century, lace was also a woven tape that could be 
used around buttonholes and worked into patterns on some military 
coats.  There are also the laces that go through eyelets to fasten 
things.

      I know what you mean, though, if the author means something like 
that, readers will be looking for string & holes.

      -Carol
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From: "Marie Stewart" <maricelt@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Quick lace question
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> No library digging needed for this one, I think; I suspect you can give me
> enough for my purposes off the top of your head!
Thanks... wow.
>
> Here's the situation: I'm editing an article that refers to depictions of
> the Virgin in 14th and 15th century European paintings as showing clothes
> decorated with such rich ornamentations as "ermine, jewels, and pure gold
> lace." I'm quite familiar with the paintings of this period, and I've
> never seen anything in them that could reliably be called "gold lace,"

I agree with you about the "gold lace" probably being a misapplication
or a misinterpretation of the term.  As far as is known lace evolved
in the realm of linen fibers, not in the metalics.  Bone lace, or
bobbin lace, didn't show up until mid or near the end of the 16th
century.  And that was the breakthrough that led to metalic threads
first being formed into patterns of lace and applied to clothing.  
The first records of the bone laces all seem to refer to linen fibers,
 but are soon filled out with laces in gold, silver and copper.

Prior to that... there is all types of embroidered work, both in and
above the cloth.  Passamentiere work can be mistaken for lace in some
cases.

Now there is plenty of woven metalic edgings and ribbons that could
have a pattern that appeared to be lacey.  A pattern in the ribbon
worked in gold on a ground of the same color as the garment...  that's
possible, maybe.

Hope that's good enough... I don't have my Levy right next to me and
I'm working from memory.

BTW... an aside and a small rant... If this author is talking about or
referring to the Prague exhibit in any way... they might be falling
vicitim to some errors I saw in the exhibit  information.   There was
one chausible, lovely thing, all 14th century embroidery,  but the
card next to it failed to mention that the orphrey (?) had been
remounted sometime in the 16th or 17th century.   Because there on the
chausible all about the edge was a bobbin lace border of gold and
silver thread....   <gah!>  so,  just FYI.

Bridgette

so
> I suspect that the author (not being a costume person) is misapplying a
> modern term to another type of decoration. She probably just means trim
> borders or embroidery, but I can't put words into her mouth. In asking her
> exactly what it is she's trying to call attention to, I need to explain
> that the wording she's used won't work, because lace (as readers would
> interpret the term) wasn't used yet. I'd like to be on firm ground when I
> say that, and it would help if I could say that "what is commonly thought
> of as lace trim on clothing doesn't appear until X period; I suspect
> you're describing something else."
>
> So, I don't need a specific date for the technique, just a ballpark
> half-century or quarter-century in which something visibly recognizable as
> "lace" became commonly used as clothing decoration. I know I see
> recognizable lace all over Elizabethan art, and I don't see it in 14th
> century art. But I don't have a sense for when exactly it starts cropping
> up as a typical feature in depictions of clothing.

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Quick lace question
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On Tue, 18 Apr 2006, Carol Kocian wrote:

>       In the 18th century, lace was also a woven tape that could be
> used around buttonholes and worked into patterns on some military
> coats.  There are also the laces that go through eyelets to fasten
> things.
> 
>       I know what you mean, though, if the author means something like
> that, readers will be looking for string & holes.

Yes, this is not meant to be complicated. As I said earlier, she's talking
about a decoration (not lacings) and didn't know the right term.

In other words: Non-costume person looks at 14th c. art and says, "Oh, see
the pretty gold lace." I'm saying, "Whatever you're looking at is not
lace, which wasn't invented till XXX. Tell me what you're seeing and I'll
help you find the right word."

I need "XXX."

--Robin


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Dawn wrote:
> Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
> 
>> So, I don't need a specific date for the technique, just a ballpark
>> half-century or quarter-century in which something visibly 
>> recognizable as
>> "lace" became commonly used as clothing decoration. I know I see
>> recognizable lace all over Elizabethan art, and I don't see it in 14th
>> century art. But I don't have a sense for when exactly it starts cropping
>> up as a typical feature in depictions of clothing.
> 
> 
> The documentation I have (an SCA handout with pictures) shows drawn and 
> cutwork "lace" as early as the 1400's and thread-and-bobbin lace 
> mentioned in 1493, and a pattern book published in 1524. I would say 
> "late 15th century" is a safe guess.
> 
> 

I should clarify my last statement, as late 15th century being a date 
for the earliest kinds of work we'd recognize today, and give "early 
16th century" as a better date for common useage (at least among 
european nobility).


Dawn


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> Is anyone familiar with this painting: 
> http://www.joslyn.org/permcol/euro/pages/veronese.html  
> or have access to a larger or more detailed image?
> 
> I am trying to identify what that is dangling under her left arm.  
> My
> initial guess is part of a chemise, since she appears to have 
> shrugged
> off a loose gown and there is no other layer in site.  Also, other
> portraits of Venus around this time tend to have a chemise lying 
> around
> if she is nude :).

Do you need this information in a hurry?  I can run down to the Joslyn
and look at the painting ... but between overtime at work and helping out
a friend whose mother just died, it ain't gonna be this week.

Leah
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Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 20:06:56 -0700
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Quick lace question
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Being the first to have the book handy and a few minutes to type..... 
the very first sentence of Chapter 1 of THE classic reference, 
Santina Levey's _Lace: A History_, says: "During the two decades 1560 
to 1580, lace became an increasingly important feature of fashionable 
dress in most European countries, and this development can be traced 
in contemporary records and in the portraits of the period."

She goes on to say that decorative "crimped and goffered EDGES" 
appear in the _15th_ century, in the same places we would expect to 
find lace some decades later -- but they are merely a "laundry 
technique" and not needlework of any kind.

In the late 15th and early 16th centuries we can see "decorative 
edges" that _do_ involve needlework of some kind on the edges of 
veils, and at the necks and wrists of smocks and shirts. These edges 
were created with embroidery (oversewing and buttonhole stitch), 
beads, seed pearls or applied cords. "Many of these edge decorations 
were carried out in colored silk or metal thread, a fact which has 
tended to obscure their links with later linen laces."

The earliest record of some sort of trimming made with bobbins is 
1476, by the ladies of the household of Eleanor d'Este, but it's 
almost certainly a cord, since the account book says "...cordella 
facto a piombino...".

"There was no moment," she says, "at which any of the above 
techniques either changed into or were replaced by lace. Gradually, 
however, during the second quarter of the sixteenth century, changing 
tastes in trimmings and embroidery resulted in the exaggeration of 
certain effects: in particular, greater emphasis was placed on 
decorated seams and edgings.... Needle and bobbin lace began to 
emerge in response to these demands, but it was a long time before 
they were seen to have become separated from the older techniques... 
Indeed, one of the clearest indications of the newness of lace is its 
lack of a name that is wholly its own."

As for possible early dates for metallic lace, "...Although, 
therefore, fifteenth-century references to 'lace', such as the mantle 
lace worn by Richard III at his coronation in 1485, really refer to 
cords and braids, it is possible that some of the later references to 
'passementerie' may refer to early bobbin lace....The 'Pasmens of 
gold' and 'passmeyn riband' worn respectively by Mary I and Edward VI 
were certainly braids, but the more explicitly described 'Passmeyn 
lace of bone work of gold' mentioned in the Lord Chamberlain's 
Accounts for 1553 was bobbin lace." (She gives a footnote for this 
conclusion, but doesn't justify it further. She goes on to describe a 
"white silver bone lace" of 1560 and "6 white smocks edged with white 
needle lace" in 1558-9.)

That help?
-- 
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Quick lace question
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On Tue, 18 Apr 2006, Chris Laning wrote:

> That help?

Yes! Thank you for typing it all in.

(Dollars to donuts my author came up with "gold lace" by quoting some art
book or museum description, whose author had no clue about any of these
techniques.)

--Robin

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From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Quick lace question
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 21:57:35 -0700
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On Apr 18, 2006, at 5:24 PM, Robin Netherton wrote:

> Here's the situation: I'm editing an article that refers to  
> depictions of
> the Virgin in 14th and 15th century European paintings as showing  
> clothes
> decorated with such rich ornamentations as "ermine, jewels, and  
> pure gold
> lace." I'm quite familiar with the paintings of this period, and I've
> never seen anything in them that could reliably be called "gold  
> lace," so
> I suspect that the author (not being a costume person) is  
> misapplying a
> modern term to another type of decoration. She probably just means  
> trim
> borders or embroidery, but I can't put words into her mouth. In  
> asking her
> exactly what it is she's trying to call attention to, I need to  
> explain
> that the wording she's used won't work, because lace (as readers would
> interpret the term) wasn't used yet. I'd like to be on firm ground  
> when I
> say that, and it would help if I could say that "what is commonly  
> thought
> of as lace trim on clothing doesn't appear until X period; I suspect
> you're describing something else."

Something is twigging my memory.  There's a number of paintings of  
the Virgin from roughly that period from eastern Europe that feature  
veils edged with some sort of decorative edging depicted in gold that  
I could easily see someone describing as "lace" for want of a better  
word.  The paintings are fairly stylized and it's hard to tell  
whether the motifs are intended to depict an actual decorative  
threadwork technique or what.  But what it appears to be is an edging  
made either of gold thread or gold in some other form that stands out  
from the edge of the veil in open designs, often with little pendant  
bits.  I'm describing this very badly -- I wish I could find an  
example on the web to point to.  My memory is telling me that there  
are several examples in Sronkova's "Gothic Woman's Fashion", but alas  
I don't own a copy of that book.

But what I'm wondering is whether the author is trying to describe  
something of this sort and accidentally evoking a later style of "lace".

Heather

--
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net
http://www.heatherrosejones.com
LJ:hrj


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At 12:26 PM 4/18/2006, you wrote:
>In making Plus Size gowns,
>  etc. for customers, it is sometimes a little dicey getting the right
>proportion for the period.


Hi Kathleen,

As a plus sized woman who later this summer will, I promise, *will* make a 
Victorian outfit for our County Sesquicentennial (I think I have that 
right... 150 year anniversary), any suggestions or tips on getting that 
right proportion?

Kimiko


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Quick lace question
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On Tue, 18 Apr 2006, Heather Rose Jones wrote:

> But what I'm wondering is whether the author is trying to describe  
> something of this sort and accidentally evoking a later style of "lace".

Since she's describing clothes and not veils, probably not. Fortunately I
don't have to guess; I'll ask her what she's looking at and help her find
the right word, once I've explained why "lace" won't do.

--Robin

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From: Susan Data-Samtak <pasovasz@aol.com>
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	required)
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Me, too!  Plus size and only 5' 2" tall.  I can use all the help I can 
get.

Thanks.

Susan

"Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for".  - "Ride the Dark
Trail" by Louis L'Amour

On Apr 19, 2006, at 12:51 AM, Kimiko Small wrote:

> At 12:26 PM 4/18/2006, you wrote:
>> In making Plus Size gowns,
>>  etc. for customers, it is sometimes a little dicey getting the right
>> proportion for the period.
>
>
> Hi Kathleen,
>
> As a plus sized woman who later this summer will, I promise, *will* 
> make a Victorian outfit for our County Sesquicentennial (I think I 
> have that right... 150 year anniversary), any suggestions or tips on 
> getting that right proportion?
>
> Kimiko
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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On Tue, 18 Apr 2006, Marie Stewart wrote:

> I agree with you about the "gold lace" probably being a misapplication
> or a misinterpretation of the term.  As far as is known lace evolved
> in the realm of linen fibers, not in the metalics.  Bone lace, or
> bobbin lace, didn't show up until mid or near the end of the 16th
> century.  And that was the breakthrough that led to metalic threads
> first being formed into patterns of lace and applied to clothing.  
> The first records of the bone laces all seem to refer to linen fibers,
> but are soon filled out with laces in gold, silver and copper.

And we have a winner! 

I don't need to precisely identify the specific thing she's looking at --
she's talking about a category of paintings, not a certain one. I just
needed to be able to say why I know for sure it is not "lace." And that is
because lace (as she would understand it) wasn't made till the mid-to-late
16th c.

Now I can figure out, with her, whether she means "embroidery" or
"borders" or "goldwork" or some other general category.

Thanks for the verification, and thanks to Bjarne, too, who was the first
one to step up with an answer.

> BTW... an aside and a small rant... If this author is talking about or
> referring to the Prague exhibit in any way... they might be falling
> vicitim to some errors I saw in the exhibit information.  There was
> one chausible, lovely thing, all 14th century embroidery, but the card
> next to it failed to mention that the orphrey (?) had been remounted
> sometime in the 16th or 17th century.  Because there on the chausible
> all about the edge was a bobbin lace border of gold and silver
> thread....  <gah!> so, just FYI.

Nope. Not artifacts at all in this case. European paintings. But yeah ...
about the museum card, gah. Too often the people who write those generally
are not the specialists who can tell you the details.

So, I hope this served as the entertainment for the day...

--Robin


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HI
So in the 15th, 16th, 17th century, how did the tailors handle larger 
sizes? Did the skirts get wider? Or did they keep the same bottom 
edge circumference from size to size? (I know this is phased badly, 
hopefully the meaning struggles thru!)
Thanks
Carol--befuddled sorta by the later period fashions...
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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Subject: [h-cost] "lace"  (Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 344)
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There's  a number of paintings of  
the Virgin from roughly that period from  eastern Europe that feature  
veils edged with some sort of decorative  edging depicted in gold that  
I could easily see someone describing  as "lace" for want of a better  
word.  The paintings are fairly  stylized and it's hard to tell  
whether the motifs are intended to  depict an actual decorative  
threadwork technique or what.  But  what it appears to be is an edging  
made either of gold thread or  gold in some other form that stands out  
from the edge of the veil in  open designs, often with little pendant   
bits. 


 
This could be needlelace, comparable to what we know today as "oya".
 
An aside: it would appear that the invention of bobbin lace in the 1500s  
caused the final demise of brocaded tablet weaving as a grament trim.
 
Nancy  

Nancy  Spies
Arelate Studio
_www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html_ 
(http://www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html) 

"But  if by 'Liberal' they mean someone who looks ahead and not behind, 
someone who  welcomes new ideas without rigid reactions, someone who cares about 
the welfare  of the people -- their health, their housing, their schools, their 
jobs, their  civil rights, and their civil liberties -- someone who believes 
we can break  through the stalemate and suspicions that grip us in our policies 
abroad, if  that is what they mean by 'Liberal', then I'm proud to say I'm a 
'Liberal'."  John F. Kennedy, 14 Sept 1960

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Subject: [h-cost] re: Tudor tailor
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>I can understand from the many posts about this new book, that many are
>making this period.
>May i ask you, have you considered to make something new from the book?
>Is it going to be another style, than you normally do?

>Bjarne

I got the book as a gift, partly because I've already made several
gowns in the "Holbein" and drum farthingale styles.  I've also done a
few doublets, trunkhose, venetian & hats.

Like everyone else, I have a few comments on the book, ifi you'll
allow me. It's a good book that I'd loan or recommend to any
intermediate sewer.  It's light on clear date ranges for specific
garments & styles. Of the recreations, some are better than others. 
In many cases it's the lack of surface decoration that makes the
resulting garment look theatrical.  However, the clean surfaces make
it clearer how the pattern shapes become the finished garment.

There are few compare & contrast illustrations.  I found the orange
(tawney p. 130) drum farthingale recreation to be completely evocative
of the Mary Fitch and Eleanor Herbert (Lady Powis) portraits.  To show
the source picture & the recreation would really have enhanced the
book. On the other hand, the extant hose & finished recreation serve
admirably to validate Ms Mikhaila's methods.

>From the name, I was expecting Tudor tailoring techniques, of which
very little is presented.  There is plenty on structure, pad
stitching, interlinings, etc, but it's all modern techniques. (see the
machine stitched linen buckram in the bodice on p.65)

One enjoyable feature of the book is the recreated accessories.  I'm
particularly fond of the repro busks. The Square rigged ship brooch
(p.98) is delish!

Tudor Tailor is among the new group of costume books that like to show
patterns, research material, original garments and/or garments from
the patterns.  (Hurray for that! )  It's not quite up to the high
standards of "Costume Close-Up" (Baumgarten) with it's patterns and
tailoring techniques, and inside views of original garments from the
Williamsburg garment collection. Neither does it stoop to the "trust
me" croquis & psuedo-pattern layouts of so many like "Medieval
Tailor's Assistant", "Evolution of Fashion".

Tudor Tailor is, for intermediate sewers, tailors & cutters a much
better buy than any of the patterns out there.  If you can work from
Linda Baumgarten's, Blanche Payne's or Norah Waugh's books, this one
will suit your style.  For advanced 16th tailors & cutters who can
glance at a painting or Patterns of Fashion and "rock of eye" start
patterning, dont bother with this book.

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Fw: Colonial Gentlemen
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Heads up for you folk in Virginia.  The following 'shoot' will be in your
neck of the woods and mayhap some of you might like to respond to Mary, at
Paladin. I assisted this group in February, and they were great folk to work
with.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <mmatzen@paladincom.com>
To: <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2006 10:27 AM
Subject: Colonial Gentlemen


Hi,Kathleen,

Thanks very much for your help on this.  We are having a very difficult
time casting these roles, so any assistance you could provide would be
fantastic.  Here are the specs for what we need.  You can just cut and
paste this into an email.

Thanks again to you and all of your contacts who help us spread the word!

Mary


Paladin Communications, producer of "When the Forest Ran Red" and "George
Washington's First War," is seeking gentlemen who could portray
burgesses/congressmen in "Gentleman Warrior: George Washington," a new
feature documentary.

"Gentleman Warrior" explores the hidden side of Washington--the inner
conflicts of the man who would forge a nation. Here we see his military and
political career, and also the personal story of his involvement with Sally
Fairfax and Martha Custis. And as a nation, we begin to understand his
growth of character from a hot-headed youth to a man capable of winning a
revolution. Paladin will present for the first time on screen the real
George Washington--not an icon, not the perfect American, but a
flesh-and-blood human being who became the greatest hero of all.

We are seeking gentleman who:

1. Have their own appropriate 18th century wardrobe.

2. Are available to be on location at the College of William & Mary in
Williamsburg, Virginia on May 23 or 24 (one or both days).

Other information about the portrayals:

* These are non-speaking roles.

* Compensation is, at minimum, $100.

* Lunch will be provided.

* You can find more information on Paladin Communications and the
production at http://www.paladincom.com/gentlemanwarrior.shtml

* Contact Mary Matzen at mmatzen@paladincom.com or 866-831-4840.

Thank you for your interest in being part of this ground-breaking
documentary!









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Subject: [h-cost] Mouldy linen
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Hi all,
 I wore my favourite lower class chemise for cooking a feast a few
weeks ago and flung it in the laundry basket. Since the weather's been 
rather rainy here lately it stayed there a while, and it must have had 
something wet up against it. Anyway, the other day I took it out and
put it in the wash and didn't notice until I hung it out that it was mouldy
 - it has big patches of black red and yellow speckles all over the
back. 

Obviously washing hasn't done anything. Any suggestions for
getting rid of the mould, or am I just going to have to make a new chemise?
The chemise is actually a linen-cotton blend, a fairly sturdy fabric.

Claire
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In a message dated 4/20/2006 6:44:18 AM Eastern Standard Time,  
angharad@dodo.com.au writes:

Any  suggestions for
getting rid of the mould, or am I just going to have to  make a new chemise?



Chlorine bleach is effective against most mold.  
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mouldy linen
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In a message dated 4/20/2006 6:46:05 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
AnnBWass@aol.com writes:

Chlorine  bleach is effective against most mold.  



Yes.
 
Maybe boil it on the stove. Or try color/ stain remover from a dye company  
like Ritt or Tintex. Those you don't actually boil, but simmer on the  stove.
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Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 06:55:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mouldy linen
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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>
> In a message dated 4/20/2006 6:46:05 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> AnnBWass@aol.com writes:
>
> Chlorine  bleach is effective against most mold.

But be careful because bleach eats the fibres and weakens them which can
cause holes later in its life.  Don't leave it on your chemise for any
longer than you have to.

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
--Ghandi

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From: SPaterson <sjpaterson@tru.eastlink.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mouldy linen
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I tend to agree with trying other methods than bleach - do you have access 
to a bar of plain lye soap? I once got charcoal from a wash puddle on my 
wool petticoat with crewel work around the hem. I thought it was a goner but 
I spot washed it with some home-made lye soap and it was out - mold 
colourations are tough to remove, tho if you must use bleach try spot 
cleaning vs soaking the whole garment - in other words, see if it will budge 
the mold before you soak the whole thing as it can weaken the fibres.

Sarah Paterson

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2006 9:29 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mouldy linen


>
> In a message dated 4/20/2006 6:46:05 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> AnnBWass@aol.com writes:
>
> Chlorine  bleach is effective against most mold.
>
>
>
> Yes.
>
> Maybe boil it on the stove. Or try color/ stain remover from a dye company
> like Ritt or Tintex. Those you don't actually boil, but simmer on the 
> stove.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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>
>>
>> In a message dated 4/20/2006 6:46:05 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>> AnnBWass@aol.com writes:
>>
>> Chlorine  bleach is effective against most mold.
>
> But be careful because bleach eats the fibres and weakens them which can
> cause holes later in its life.  Don't leave it on your chemise for any
> longer than you have to.
>
> Diana

You can get stuff to neutralize the chlorine at pet stores that sell fish 
supplies--I think I read about it here at some point. I wish I'd known 
about it earlier, though.

Margaret/Pixel
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From: "Kelly Grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Mouldy linen
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If it's a lower class chemise, why not cut out the mouldy bits and patch 
them.  Adds character!
Kelly



"Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced 
with danger.  To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, 
then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears"
Caius Merlyn Britannicus





>From: "Purple Elephant" <angharad@dodo.com.au>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Mouldy linen
>Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 20:12:17 +0930
>
>Hi all,
>  I wore my favourite lower class chemise for cooking a feast a few
>weeks ago and flung it in the laundry basket. Since the weather's been
>rather rainy here lately it stayed there a while, and it must have had
>something wet up against it. Anyway, the other day I took it out and
>put it in the wash and didn't notice until I hung it out that it was mouldy
>  - it has big patches of black red and yellow speckles all over the
>back.
>
>Obviously washing hasn't done anything. Any suggestions for
>getting rid of the mould, or am I just going to have to make a new chemise?
>The chemise is actually a linen-cotton blend, a fairly sturdy fabric.
>
>Claire
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mouldy linen
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Diana Habra wrote:
>>In a message dated 4/20/2006 6:46:05 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>>AnnBWass@aol.com writes:
>>
>>Chlorine  bleach is effective against most mold.
> 
> 
> But be careful because bleach eats the fibres and weakens them which can
> cause holes later in its life.  Don't leave it on your chemise for any
> longer than you have to.


Hydrogen peroxide also has bleaching properties and is much more mild 
than straight bleach. Dab some on the spots and leave it in the sun.


Dawn


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Did this book ever get printed?  Our library had it listed as "on order" 
and now I don't see it anywhere.

Thanks,
--Charlene


-- 
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knowledge of its ugly side.  -- James Baldwin, US author (1924-1987)


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<--- angharad@dodo.com.au wrote:
<
<Hi all,
< I wore my favourite lower class chemise for cooking a feast a few
<weeks ago and flung it in the laundry basket. Since the weather's been 
<rather rainy here lately it stayed there a while, and it must have had 
<something wet up against it. Anyway, the other day I took it out and
<put it in the wash and didn't notice until I hung it out that it was mouldy
< - it has big patches of black red and yellow speckles all over the
<back. 
<
<Obviously washing hasn't done anything. Any suggestions for
<getting rid of the mould, or am I just going to have to make a new chemise?
<The chemise is actually a linen-cotton blend, a fairly sturdy fabric.
<
<Claire

Before trying a chlorine based bleach, I'd try giving it a good soak in something like OxiClean. ( Or whatever is your local/favourite diaper soaker. ) Or make a paste of the OxiClean and use it to just treat the spots.

This link is specific for treating mildew with an oxygen based stain remover:

http://www.napisan.co.nz/cgi-bin/products.pl?template=vanishstains%2Fnz%2Fstain_solution.tmpl&datafile=vanishstains%2Fnz%2Fstain_solver.txt&SPECIFIC_STAIN=Mildew&x=175&y=25

Probably more than you really want to know about oxygen based bleach:

http://www.laundry-alternative.com/Oxygen_bleach_research.html

Another just generally interesting article:

http://alsnetbiz.com/homeimprovement/oxybleach.html

A friend of mine had a natural coloured raw silk chemise, trimmed with cream coloured cotton cluny lace, that got something spilled on it that didn't come out in just the wash. She soaked the chemise in Napisan ( our local leading brand of diaper soaker ) and not only did the stain come out, but the lace came out white! ( I know that they don't recommend using it on silk, but the raw silk seemed to have no ill effects from its' soaking. )

Good luck, with whatever you decide to go with.

Joannah

~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~



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The publisher went out of business; I don't believe any other publisher
picked up the book.  I'd love to hear otherwise... 

Gueničvre



  > Did this book ever get printed?  Our library had it listed as "on order"
  > and now I don't see it anywhere.
  > 
  > Thanks,
  > --Charlene
  


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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mouldy linen
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Kelly Grant wrote:
> If it's a lower class chemise, why not cut out the mouldy bits and 
> patch them.  Adds character!


 Because it's garment abuse.  Patches are what you apply when something 
_wears_ through.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
-----------------------------


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mouldy linen
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In a message dated 4/20/2006 2:44:34 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
ladyadele@paradise.net.nz writes:

Because  it's garment abuse.  Patches are what you apply when something  
_wears_ through.



*****************
 
You'd go ape in theatre or film where costumes just made are regularly  
"distressed " [theatre term] or "teched" [film term]. I can't tell you how many  
brand new garments I've taken cheese graters and palm sanders to! Not to mention 
 the painting and spatter dying.
 
I remember for a Brecht play we had this real WWI uniform that looked brand  
new. We needed to make it look like it had been through the trenches for a 
long  time. It wouldn't distress! It was the toughest thing I've ever had to mess 
 with. Well, it was made to go through a real war, after all. Stabbing it 
with  scissors and scraping it with razor blades and a generous amount of  paint 
finally did the trick.
 
I love distressing. I always volunteer to do it. It's like make-up for  
clothes. You can tell a story with teching. What has she had to walk through?  What 
weather has he had to endure? What kind of work have they been doing? And  of 
course [especially in film] there's the progression....like in a chase film  
where no one looks like they change clothes, but in reality there  are like 4 
or 5 duplicate outfits each a little more teched according to  whatever is 
happening in the script. This all has to be worked out beforehand,  since things 
are rarely filmed in order.
 
And it's not always to make things look old or abused. Sometimes it has to  
be subtle...just enough so that things don't look brand new...just worn a 
couple  of times. Rarely does anything go on without some kind  of teching.
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Mouldy linen
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Sounds fun! How do I get into that?

Sharon,
 who started out as a theatre techie

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of AlbertCat@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2006 1:12 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mouldy linen


 
In a message dated 4/20/2006 2:44:34 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
ladyadele@paradise.net.nz writes:

Because  it's garment abuse.  Patches are what you apply when something  
_wears_ through.



*****************
 
You'd go ape in theatre or film where costumes just made are regularly  
"distressed " [theatre term] or "teched" [film term]. I can't tell you how
many  
brand new garments I've taken cheese graters and palm sanders to! Not to
mention 
 the painting and spatter dying.
 
I remember for a Brecht play we had this real WWI uniform that looked brand

new. We needed to make it look like it had been through the trenches for a 
long  time. It wouldn't distress! It was the toughest thing I've ever had to
mess 
 with. Well, it was made to go through a real war, after all. Stabbing it 
with  scissors and scraping it with razor blades and a generous amount of
paint 
finally did the trick.
 
I love distressing. I always volunteer to do it. It's like make-up for  
clothes. You can tell a story with teching. What has she had to walk
through?  What 
weather has he had to endure? What kind of work have they been doing? And
of 
course [especially in film] there's the progression....like in a chase film

where no one looks like they change clothes, but in reality there  are like
4 
or 5 duplicate outfits each a little more teched according to  whatever is 
happening in the script. This all has to be worked out beforehand,  since
things 
are rarely filmed in order.
 
And it's not always to make things look old or abused. Sometimes it has to  
be subtle...just enough so that things don't look brand new...just worn a 
couple  of times. Rarely does anything go on without some kind  of teching.
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Mouldy linen
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 14:32:25 -0700
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Try lemon juice and salt. I've had some luck getting rid of rust stains with
that. Also, putting it out in the sun with the lemon and salt might help. Or
just lemon and sun.
Sharon

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Purple Elephant
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2006 3:42 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Mouldy linen


Hi all,
 I wore my favourite lower class chemise for cooking a feast a few weeks ago
and flung it in the laundry basket. Since the weather's been 
rather rainy here lately it stayed there a while, and it must have had 
something wet up against it. Anyway, the other day I took it out and put it
in the wash and didn't notice until I hung it out that it was mouldy
 - it has big patches of black red and yellow speckles all over the back. 

Obviously washing hasn't done anything. Any suggestions for getting rid of
the mould, or am I just going to have to make a new chemise? The chemise is
actually a linen-cotton blend, a fairly sturdy fabric.

Claire
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Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2006 09:41:12 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mouldy linen
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AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

>Because  it's garment abuse.  Patches are what you apply when something  
>_wears_ through.
>
>
>
>*****************
> 
>You'd go ape in theatre or film where costumes just made are regularly  
>"distressed " [theatre term] or "teched" [film term]. I can't tell you how many  
>brand new garments I've taken cheese graters and palm sanders to! Not to mention 
> the painting and spatter dying.
>  
>

No, actually, in a theatre environment, it wouldn't bother me at all-- 
there's a motivation there for trying to create "aged" clothes in a 
short amount of time.  For SCA wear, though, what I prioduce is not a 
theatre costume-- it's clothes.  They will wear out in their own time 
without anyone chopping random holes in them and sewing patches on.  And 
the person who asked the question was asking how to save her mouldy 
chemise, not how to hasten it's demise.


-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Apr 20 17:47:34 2006
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Subject: [h-cost] Mildew and leather
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I'd like to tap your collective wisdom here...
 
I have a couple of leather articles (not garments) which have become  
affected with mildew.
 
This was totally my fault, due to neglect.  I'm really  embarrassed.
 
Any suggestions how I can safely get rid of the stuff without ruining the  
finish on the leather?  I *have* found another, better place to store the  stuff 
so this won't happen again.
 
Thanks in advance,
Meagn 
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette
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Hi
I found this, and
http://www.marieantoinette-lefilm.com/
Didnt they use wrong music for this?
Or is it the new, that they want young people to get an interrest in 
history, and make it with rock music?
I think i am getting old....................

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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In a message dated 4/20/2006 5:31:37 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sharon@collierfam.com writes:

Sounds  fun! How do I get into that?

Sharon,
who started out as a theatre  techie



*****************
 
I was taught to do it when I was working in the dye dept. of the local  
Shakespeare Rep.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette
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In a message dated 4/20/2006 6:16:53 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

Hi
I  found this, and
http://www.marieantoinette-lefilm.com/
Didnt they use  wrong music for this?
Or is it the new, that they want young people to get  an interrest in 
history, and make it with rock music?
I think i am  getting old....................




****************
 
Hahahaha....
 
Well, they'll probably try to make her out to just be the misunderstood  
Paris Hilton of the French Court...all that running around and lying in the  grass 
and stuff. Y'know, like Mozart was just a Classical rock star! :-P
The clothes look 30-fold times better than "Amadeus" I must say. They look  
right good. I noticed several different styles. I wonder if they follow the 
time  line or are just scattered throughout?
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mildew and leather
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In a message dated 4/20/2006 5:47:47 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
Tudorldy@aol.com writes:

Any  suggestions how I can safely get rid of the stuff without ruining the   
finish on the leather?  I *have* found another, better place to store  the  
stuff 
so this won't happen  again.




When we moved to Mississippi, many of my shoes and all the leather bindings  
on my encyclopias molded.  I wiped everything down with rubbing alcohol,  put 
them out in the sun, and then made sure I ran the air conditioner through  the 
humid weather!  I would spot test with the alcohol to make sure it  didn't 
damage your items, but mine came through fine.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette
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Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hi
> I found this, and
> http://www.marieantoinette-lefilm.com/
> Didnt they use wrong music for this?
> Or is it the new, that they want young people to get an interrest in 
> history, and make it with rock music?
> I think i am getting old....................


Does anybody know who performs the music they're playing in this teaser?



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mildew and leather
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Meagn said:

<I have a couple of leather articles (not garments) which have become
affected with mildew.>

My husband is a leatherworker, and seconded Ann's sunny day option. He said 
it may take several days of sun and dry air, but eventually, the mildew will 
clear.

He also said to remember to re-condition the leather if you do use alcohol 
or another drying agent.

Caryn

P.S. I have been lurking for months, just learning. I am happy to finally 
have something definite to contribute!


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] proportions for plus sizes (was  yardage required)
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In a message dated 4/19/2006 3:10:19 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
cahuff@clearviewcatv.net writes:

So in  the 15th, 16th, 17th century, how did the tailors handle larger 
sizes? Did  the skirts get wider? 


**********************
 
You're sorta assuming there's some kind of standard. Just like today,  it 
most likely depended on the client... with much prodding from the tailor. But  if 
you need more yardage, you have to have more yardage. With fabric being more  
costly back then, and fabric widths being usually narrower than today, this 
was  more than likely a "bigger" decision. [no pun intended]. 
And then there's the problem of gowns being restyled from old gowns.  You 
must use what you've got.
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Drea asked me to pass this along.

Sg

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: 	Elizabethan costume page has moved
Date: 	Tue, 18 Apr 2006 10:35:50 -0500 (EST)
From: 	Drea Leed <drea@shell.siscom.net>
To: 	WickedFrau <wickedfrau@msn.com>
References: 	<BAY0-SMTP046F6171E1729F02D1B89AA9C60@phx.gbl> 
<20060417111954.J57120@shell.siscom.net>



Saragrace,

As I'm not on h-costume any more, would you mind posting a message there 
that the Elizabethan Costuming Page has moved from http://costume.dm.net 
to http://www.elizabethancostume.net?

My ISP up and quit on me, and I had to find a new one. :P Hopefully, now 
that I bit the bullet and bought a domain name, the next transition will 
be easier than this one...

Thanks,

Drea



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In a message dated 4/20/2006 10:37:46 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dch@inreach.com writes:

Chlorine  bleach is effective against most mold.

But be  careful because bleach eats the fibres and weakens them which can
cause  holes later in its life.  Don't leave it on your chemise for  any
longer than you have to.



I'm not necessarily advocating soaking it in pure bleach--often just  washing 
in the usual dilute bleach solution can be effective.  Another  alternative, 
since it won't show, is to wear it anyway.  However, if it is  truly un
wearable as it is, you do have to decide a trade-off between potential  weakening of 
fibers vs the spots.
 
Ann Wass
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Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 18:30:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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> Hi
> I found this, and
> http://www.marieantoinette-lefilm.com/
> Didnt they use wrong music for this?
> Or is it the new, that they want young people to get an interrest in
> history, and make it with rock music?
> I think i am getting old....................

They did the same thing with "A Knight's Tale".  Decent story, fun
characters and okay clothing but the music......Very rock and totally out
of place (along with the icky lampshade hat on his girlfriend).

It would have been great without the rock music and some of the
questionable clothing....

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
--Ghandi

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  It won't play on my home computer, but IIRC from listening to it at 
work, it's New Order.

Karen

Dawn wrote:

>
>
> Does anybody know who performs the music they're playing in this teaser?
>
>
>
> Dawn
>


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Subject: [h-cost] Knight's Tale
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> They did the same thing with "A Knight's Tale".  Decent story, fun
> characters and okay clothing but the music......Very rock and totally out
> of place (along with the icky lampshade hat on his girlfriend).
>
> It would have been great without the rock music and some of the
> questionable clothing....


Now, see I thought the music and the "medieval punk" really MADE the movie. 
It would have been boring w/o it, IMO.

Different strokes.

Denise
Iowa 

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Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2006 14:52:15 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knight's Tale
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>
>
>> They did the same thing with "A Knight's Tale".  Decent story, fun
>> characters and okay clothing but the music......Very rock and totally 
>> out
>> of place (along with the icky lampshade hat on his girlfriend).
>
>
>
> Now, see I thought the music and the "medieval punk" really MADE the 
> movie. It would have been boring w/o it, IMO.
>

Snerf.  I thought they might as well have kept the jousting, plumped for 
a modern setting and achieved less net total anachronism.


-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 22:15:57 -0500
From: "jordana robinson" <mylaar@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette
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Status: RO

new order (band)
"age of consent" (song title)

as a fan of both new order and 18th century costume/movies, i don't know yet
how i feel about the pairing :)  i'm waiting for the movie to come out.
(and i really should have seen at least one of sofia coppola's films by now
but somehow haven't.)

there is definitely some intentional anachronistic juxtaposition thing going
on, as the film's logo is so very jamie reid, the guy who made the posters
and visuals for the sex pistols...

-jordana
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Thread-Topic: Elizabethan shirt - toggle closure wrist cuffs [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]
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From: "Wilson, Annette" <Annette.Wilson@deh.gov.au>
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Hi everyone.

I had a chance to look at a copy of the Tudor Tailor over Easter and
near the front was a photograph of a wristband of a shirt dated about
1580 in the Museum of London. The closure was an eyelet and "threadwork"
toggle - sort of like half a cufflink.
Has anyone any further details of this, or a more detailed photo? I have
never seen anything like it before and think it would be much easier to
manage than lacing though two "buttonholes".

As for my thoughts after a brief look at the book - I will buy a copy,
both to use as a teaching aid, and for the odd bits of extra info like
the toggle just mentioned. Good solid work in general, without being as
intimidating as Arnold's publications are for most of the novices I
know.

Annette Wilson
(Canberra, Australia)

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Status: RO

Apparently the publisher went bankrupt and the rights to the book are 
now in legal limbo....may be awhile before we see this one.

Sg
Guenievre de Monmarche wrote:

>The publisher went out of business; I don't believe any other publisher
>picked up the book.  I'd love to hear otherwise... 
>
>Gueničvre
>
>
>  
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knight's Tale
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Land of Oz" <landofoz@netins.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2006 10:45 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Knight's Tale


>
>> They did the same thing with "A Knight's Tale".  Decent story, fun
>> characters and okay clothing but the music......Very rock and totally out
>> of place (along with the icky lampshade hat on his girlfriend).
>>
>> It would have been great without the rock music and some of the
>> questionable clothing....

I loved that movie. But I wasn't expecting authenticity, I was expecting 
FUN, and I got that.  The characters were enjoyable, and the story was 
classic "poor boy makes good", which is timeless.

Dianne 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knight's Tale
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In a message dated 4/20/2006 10:53:09 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
ladyadele@paradise.net.nz writes:

They did  the same thing with "A Knight's Tale".  Decent story, fun
>>  characters and okay clothing but the music......Very rock and totally  
>> out
>> of place (along with the icky lampshade hat on  his girlfriend).
>
>
>
> Now, see I thought the music  and the "medieval punk" really MADE the 
> movie. It would have been  boring w/o it, IMO.
>

Snerf.  I thought they might as well  have kept the jousting, plumped for 
a modern setting and achieved less net  total anachronism.



***********************
 
And I thought it so mixed up and vapid as to not even be worth the effort  of 
hating it...or ever thinking about it again. 
 
Different strokes indeed.
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Subject: [h-cost] Fascinating: oldest evidence for needle binding
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Hi All,

I am going to a series of lectures at Edinburgh Unversity entitled "European 
Mummies and Bog Bodies" and while they are fascinating to start with, I 
couldn't believe my eyes and ears this week. It seems that the oldest 
surviving piece of clothing made in needle binding technique (and in one 
continuous piece of yarn) is from the Tamir peoples, in the Takamaklen (sp) 
desert, in China along the Silk Route. The most intriguing bit is that the 
Tamir are Caucasian, and that this chap's burial (mummified, owing to 
environmental conditions), is from appr. 1000 BC and contained a beret made 
in needle binding (nalbinding) technique. A 3000 years old beret that looks 
like a modern one!

Thought I'd share, perhaps someone on here is as fascinated by this as I 
was. :-)

Nicole


--------------------
"If you think education is expensive, try ignorance."

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In a message dated 4/20/2006 11:16:58 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
mylaar@gmail.com writes:

as a fan  of both new order and 18th century costume/movies, i don't know yet
how i  feel about the pairing :)  i'm waiting for the movie to come  out.



*****************
 
Just wait 'til they issue the "study guide" for teachers to use in class!  Oy!
 
It looks like the film makers have ignored the rigor and rigidity of the  
protocols of the French Court to an extent. Oh well....it might be fun. We'll  
see.
 
And I saw a full page ad in the New Yorker for the HBO "Elizabeth I". It is  
a beautiful photo of Helen Mirren and Jeremy Irons....in bed. The tag line is  
"The hardest thing to govern is the heart" Yuck! [I guess it won't be until 
1912  that mankind learns "the heart will go on."]
 
 He looks very good in a lovely doublet with some very un-Elizabethan  
looking embroidery around the armseye....????????...never seen that before.  Still, 
it's lov-er-ly. 
 
The Queen...that's the Queen mind you... is in her Dorothea corset....no  
doubt fresh from "The Tudor Tailor" :-) and chemise. Uh huh. And earrings. The  
Queen wears her corset and earring to bed?
 
I love advertising!
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Fascinating: oldest evidence for needle binding
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Nicole--
There is a whole book on the subject of the mummies and their clothing:
The Mummies of Urumchi
by Elizabeth Wayland Barber 

If you haven't read it, you should immediately. It's available in paperback.

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of N Kipar
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 9:24 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Fascinating: oldest evidence for needle binding

Hi All,

I am going to a series of lectures at Edinburgh Unversity entitled "European
Mummies and Bog Bodies" and while they are fascinating to start with, I
couldn't believe my eyes and ears this week. It seems that the oldest
surviving piece of clothing made in needle binding technique (and in one
continuous piece of yarn) is from the Tamir peoples, in the Takamaklen (sp)
desert, in China along the Silk Route. The most intriguing bit is that the
Tamir are Caucasian, and that this chap's burial (mummified, owing to
environmental conditions), is from appr. 1000 BC and contained a beret made
in needle binding (nalbinding) technique. A 3000 years old beret that looks
like a modern one!

Thought I'd share, perhaps someone on here is as fascinated by this as I
was. :-)

Nicole


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From: Genie Barrett <maggie.gene@justinanimator.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knight's Tale
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>>
>>>They did the same thing with "A Knight's Tale".  Decent story, fun
>>>characters and okay clothing but the music......Very rock and totally out
>>>of place (along with the icky lampshade hat on his girlfriend).
>>>
>>>It would have been great without the rock music and some of the
>>>questionable clothing....
>
>I loved that movie. But I wasn't expecting authenticity, I was 
>expecting FUN, and I got that.  The characters were enjoyable, and 
>the story was classic "poor boy makes good", which is timeless.

I couldn't stop laughing through the whole movie.  I thought it was 
hilarious.  Bought it, and listened to the commentary by the director 
and... the guy who plays Chaucer... and they mocked themselves the 
whole way through.  The director kept saying stuff like, "No one told 
me they didn't do that back then."

I considered it a great joke
Genie

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Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2006 11:09:45 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mouldy linen
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I was looking through the November 1799 "Lady's Monthly Museum" for  
something else, and came across this:
 
"To take Mildew out of Linen.  Take soap, and rub it very well; then  scrape 
some fine chalk, and rub that also in the linen: lay it on the grass; as  it 
dries, wet it a little.  It will come out at twice doing."
 
Ann Wass
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Two years ago the Metropolitan Museum of Art had an exibition "Dangerous
Liasions: Fashion and Furniture in the 18th century" and a companion
book was promised.

Now the book is out, published by the Met in tandem with Yale University
Press. I locked in the price of my copy at $13.95 preordered from
Amazon.com last year and it is here!  For all of you 18th fashion
lovers, the book is a visual feast of mannikins posed in 18th clothes in
recreated rooms, living la vie l'amour in various stages from awaiting a
love letter to flirtation to very close encounters of the sexual kind.
Drool worthy fashions and settings with the added addition of tie-in
artwork from the Met's collection and essays documenting the stages of
love in each room at different times of the day.

The book was actualized in hardcover, instead of paperback at a higher
price now, but for those awaitng the Marie Antoinette film, even if we
can just critique it to death for what they got wrong, this is the real
deal. Best price is at Amazon.com

There is a stunning, ombre woven dress in the book where the original
fabric could walk down the runway today in a modern designed outfit and
look stunning!

Cindy Abel 

 

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> >I loved that movie. But I wasn't expecting authenticity, I was
> >expecting FUN, and I got that.  The characters were enjoyable, and
> >the story was classic "poor boy makes good", which is timeless.
>
> I couldn't stop laughing through the whole movie.  I thought it was
> hilarious.  Bought it, and listened to the commentary by the director
> and... the guy who plays Chaucer... and they mocked themselves the
> whole way through.  The director kept saying stuff like, "No one told
> me they didn't do that back then."


I enjoyed the movie as well, since I wasn't expecting authenticity either.
I however would have like to have seen the leading lady in costumes more
appropriate to the setting.  That was too jarring, when everyone else around
her was wearing something closer to the correct stuff.

I try to enjoy movies for their entertainment value, the story, etc.  it's
just when they try to tell you that the film is historically correct that I
get upset over the details that are just so wrong...

alex
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	Fri, 21 Apr 2006 08:39:59 PDT
Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2006 08:39:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris <emeraldepona@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Fascinating: oldest evidence for needle binding
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Morning :)
   
  NOVA also has a 1-hour video/DVD on it too.  
   
  http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova/chinamum/taklamakan.html
   
  Chris G.

Kim Baird <kbaird@cableone.net> wrote:
  Nicole--
There is a whole book on the subject of the mummies and their clothing:
The Mummies of Urumchi
by Elizabeth Wayland Barber 

If you haven't read it, you should immediately. It's available in paperback.

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of N Kipar
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 9:24 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Fascinating: oldest evidence for needle binding

Hi All,

I am going to a series of lectures at Edinburgh Unversity entitled "European
Mummies and Bog Bodies" and while they are fascinating to start with, I
couldn't believe my eyes and ears this week. It seems that the oldest
surviving piece of clothing made in needle binding technique (and in one
continuous piece of yarn) is from the Tamir peoples, in the Takamaklen (sp)
desert, in China along the Silk Route. The most intriguing bit is that the
Tamir are Caucasian, and that this chap's burial (mummified, owing to
environmental conditions), is from appr. 1000 BC and contained a beret made
in needle binding (nalbinding) technique. A 3000 years old beret that looks
like a modern one!

Thought I'd share, perhaps someone on here is as fascinated by this as I
was. :-)

Nicole


--------------------
"If you think education is expensive, try ignorance."




		
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From: Chris <emeraldepona@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fascinating: oldest evidence for needle binding
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Forgot...I was completely blown away by the plaids they've found as well...reminds me of the Stewart 'hunting' plaid, but regardless, it's absolutely BEAUTIFUL!!!  Wait until you see it!
   
  Chris G.

N Kipar <marquesate@hotmail.com> wrote:
  Hi All,

I am going to a series of lectures at Edinburgh Unversity entitled "European 
Mummies and Bog Bodies" and while they are fascinating to start with, I 
couldn't believe my eyes and ears this week. It seems that the oldest 
surviving piece of clothing made in needle binding technique (and in one 
continuous piece of yarn) is from the Tamir peoples, in the Takamaklen (sp) 
desert, in China along the Silk Route. The most intriguing bit is that the 
Tamir are Caucasian, and that this chap's burial (mummified, owing to 
environmental conditions), is from appr. 1000 BC and contained a beret made 
in needle binding (nalbinding) technique. A 3000 years old beret that looks 
like a modern one!

Thought I'd share, perhaps someone on here is as fascinated by this as I 
was. :-)

Nicole


--------------------
"If you think education is expensive, try ignorance."


		
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Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2006 10:15:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: REBECCA BURCH <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knight's Tale
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Well, I loved it.  But then I'm really fond of
alternative fairy tales too.  I like it when you look
at things from a different perspective.

Plus, it reminded me of my first season with a rep
company back in the early 80's doing a punk/biker/new
age version of King Lear. Every year we did one show
with a student director from UC-Irvine - usually not
as out there as this guy, but always interesting.

The first night we had a full house and by
intermission we were down to spouses and family
members.  What fun.


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2006 12:26:52 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knight's Tale
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
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This sound track is actually on my desktop right now, cd case
staring at me with that beautiful blond curly haired man .... I
digress.

I do have to say that I really loved the scene where they are having
to decide rather quickly what he would be wearing the dinner so that
the lady could make certain she would not clash with it. They even
described the buttons that he would be wearing with it all the while
fingering the pavilion and its toggles. It was very cool to see
sewing from that point of vew. :)

Chiara


On Fri, April 21, 2006 12:15 pm, REBECCA BURCH said:
> Well, I loved it.  But then I'm really fond of
> alternative fairy tales too.  I like it when you look
> at things from a different perspective.
>
> Plus, it reminded me of my first season with a rep
> company back in the early 80's doing a punk/biker/new
> age version of King Lear. Every year we did one show
> with a student director from UC-Irvine - usually not
> as out there as this guy, but always interesting.
>
> The first night we had a full house and by
> intermission we were down to spouses and family
> members.  What fun.
>
>
> Rebecca Burch
> Center Valley Farm
> Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>




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In a message dated 4/21/2006 1:20:32 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net writes:

The  first night we had a full house and by
intermission we were down to spouses  and family
members.  What fun.




*******************
 
 
Hahahaha...oh no! Yes...well I will not condemn "giving it a  try".
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Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2006 11:17:42 -0700
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From: "Sharon L. Krossa" <skrossa-ml@medievalscotland.org>
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At 2:52 PM +1200 4/21/06, Adele de Maisieres wrote:
>>>They did the same thing with "A Knight's Tale".  Decent story, fun
>>>characters and okay clothing but the music......Very rock and totally out
>>>of place (along with the icky lampshade hat on his girlfriend).
>>
>>Now, see I thought the music and the "medieval punk" really MADE
>>the movie. It would have been boring w/o it, IMO.
>
>Snerf.  I thought they might as well have kept the jousting, plumped
>for a modern setting and achieved less net total anachronism.

I confess I prefer it when historically inspired movies include such 
anachronisms as obviously modern rock music -- it helps the audience 
keep in mind that they are watching fiction, and that they shouldn't 
believe what they're seeing is real after the reel ends.

So anachronism, especially deliberate anachronism, in movies is fine 
with me as long as the movie isn't trying to fool people into 
believing it isn't anachronism -- I'll take A Knight's Tale and 
Shakespeare In Love over Elizabeth or That Film Whose Name Shall Not 
Be Uttered any day!

Sharon
-- 
Sharon Krossa, skrossa-ml@MedievalScotland.org
Resources for Scottish history, names, clothing, language & more:
     Medieval Scotland - http://MedievalScotland.org/
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dangerous Liasions book
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In a message dated 4/21/2006 11:35:37 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu writes:

Two  years ago the Metropolitan Museum of Art had an exibition  "Dangerous
Liasions: Fashion and Furniture in the 18th century" and a  companion
book was promised.



****************************
 
 
I saw that!
I thought this was great and very clever. The Costume Institute's space has  
been greatly reduced by the new uber-cafeteria at the Met [great food!]. So 
how  clever was it of them to combine two related Museum departments and space 
to  show both the furniture and the clothes in their "natural habitat". 
 
I remember a woman getting her hair dressed in the morning light [the  
lighting of the rooms was exceptional!] and a woman fainting in the candle  lit 
evening salon. I remember an amorous encounter you see thru a half open  door to 
the bed chamber while others cheat at cards in the front room. I  remember an 
unwanted pass at a lady, with the dog jumping up and upsetting a  table...a 
vase broken on the floor [I wonder if it was real...probably].
 
A great show.
 
I think I'll get the book.
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 Yes, all the scenes you described are in the book. I also wondered if
the vase was real(a clever way to use something that is broken and of
the era!)or a museum gift shop facsimile that was broken.

A pity the Costume Institute's space was reduced by the new cafeteria,
but maybe it will make enough money for expansion for the Costume
Institute.

Cindy
 
 
I saw that!
I thought this was great and very clever. The Costume Institute's space
has been greatly reduced by the new uber-cafeteria at the Met [great
food!]. So how  clever was it of them to combine two related Museum
departments and space to  show both the furniture and the clothes in
their "natural habitat". 
 
I remember a woman getting her hair dressed in the morning light [the
lighting of the rooms was exceptional!] and a woman fainting in the
candle  lit evening salon. I remember an amorous encounter you see thru
a half open  door to the bed chamber while others cheat at cards in the
front room. I  remember an unwanted pass at a lady, with the dog jumping
up and upsetting a  table...a vase broken on the floor [I wonder if it
was real...probably].
 
A great show.
 
I think I'll get the book.
_______________________________________________
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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HBO actually has a website dedicated to the upcoming Elizabeth I with Jeremy Irons & Helen Mirren and some pictures - take a look.

http://www.hbo.com/films/elizabeth/?ntrack_para1=leftnav_category5_show0

Wendi

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Marie Antoinette/Knight's Tale
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Snicker - I would expect that this will turn out to be silly and campy,  (intended or not) and rarely presenting historical fact, although the  costumes did look nice. (Or if it is good enough and popular may spur a  trend in modern fashion?)
  
  The other possibility, although not likely, is that the music was  provided with the trailer simply as an attention getter, and is not an  essential part of the movie. I don't know anything about Sofia  Coppola's directing style, but didn't she win some awards for Lost in  Translation?
  
  I refused to watch A Knight's Tale for years because it was set to rock  music. When I finally did see it I was pleasantly surprised that it was  fun, and didn't take its self seriously. But the female lead's  headdresses and hairstyles were freakish at times. Certainly not very  accurate, but for nothing else to do on a rainy afternoon, provides a  nice bit of fluff - or good background noise while cooking dinner or  cleaning house.
  
  Annette M


  ------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2006 00:14:30 +0200
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" 
Subject: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette

Hi
I found this, and
http://www.marieantoinette-lefilm.com/
Didnt they use wrong music for this?
Or is it the new, that they want young people to get an interrest in 
history, and make it with rock music?
I think i am getting old....................

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
------------------------------

Message: 9
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 18:40:58 EDT
From: AlbertCat@aol.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette


In a message dated 4/20/2006 6:16:53 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

Hahahaha....
 
Well, they'll probably try to make her out to just be the misunderstood  
Paris Hilton of the French Court...all that running around and lying in the  grass 
and stuff. Y'know, like Mozart was just a Classical rock star! :-P
The clothes look 30-fold times better than "Amadeus" I must say. They look  
right good. I noticed several different styles. I wonder if they follow the 
time  line or are just scattered throughout?


------------------------------


Message: 13
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 18:30:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Diana Habra" 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette


They did the same thing with "A Knight's Tale".  Decent story, fun
characters and okay clothing but the music......Very rock and totally out
of place (along with the icky lampshade hat on his girlfriend).

It would have been great without the rock music and some of the
questionable clothing....

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
--Ghandi
------------------------------

Message: 14
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 21:19:00 -0500
From: Karen Heim 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Marie Antoinette

It won't play on my home computer, but IIRC from listening to it at 
work, it's New Order.

Karen

Dawn wrote:

>
>
> Does anybody know who performs the music they're playing in this teaser?
>
>
>
> Dawn
------------------------------

Message: 15
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 21:45:27 -0500
From: "Land of Oz" 
Subject: [h-cost] Knight's Tale

> They did the same thing with "A Knight's Tale".  Decent story, fun
> characters and okay clothing but the music......Very rock and totally out
> of place (along with the icky lampshade hat on his girlfriend).
>
> It would have been great without the rock music and some of the
> questionable clothing....


Now, see I thought the music and the "medieval punk" really MADE the movie. 
It would have been boring w/o it, IMO.

Different strokes.

Denise
Iowa 
------------------------------

Message: 16
Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2006 14:52:15 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knight's Tale

>> They did the same thing with "A Knight's Tale".  Decent story, fun
>> characters and okay clothing but the music......Very rock and totally 
>> out
>> of place (along with the icky lampshade hat on his girlfriend).
>
>
>
> Now, see I thought the music and the "medieval punk" really MADE the 
> movie. It would have been boring w/o it, IMO.
>

Snerf.  I thought they might as well have kept the jousting, plumped for 
a modern setting and achieved less net total anachronism.


-- 
Adele de Maisieres


		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mouldy linen
Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2006 13:52:26 -0400
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I have an "absolute desperation/last ditch/end of your rope" solution to
mouldy linen. My Mom and I came across this in a Hints from Heloise (we
think, it could have just been something in the local paper) We had some
white linen, with white embroidery table runners, that were in awful
condition, but they were made by a family member, and tried everything to
get the stains out. We used this, since the other option was to throw them
out, which would have been bad.

If this is sewn with silk thread..don't do this. We washed the pieces in an
enzyme detergent, at the time that was "Era" Shout might be the same thing
now. Wash it a few times, and rinse *very* well. Then, take a plastic tub,
fill it with warm water and throw in a few Efferdent denture cleaning
tablets (get the plain ones, not the ones with listerine in them) then toss
in the linen, and swirl and let it sit overnight, just like a pair of
dentures. Rinse *very* well again, and let it hang dry. That got out ninety
percent of the mold and mildew stains. We did it a second time, and I
couldn't see any stain remaining after that. But this was severely moldy
(had been in a damp basement for 30 years)

Caveat: I don't know what this does to the longevity of the fibers, I
suspect that it's fairly destructive. But, we're gentle with the table
runners now, we keep them packed in acid free boxes with acid free paper
when they're not in use. But...we also expect to keep them for at least
another 30 years. I don't expect that a smock/chemise will be kept that
long.

Hopefully one of the other methods will work for you, as I said this is a
last ditch method.

In service,
Robert of Stonemarche

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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knight's Tale
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Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio wrote:
> I do have to say that I really loved the scene where they are having
> to decide rather quickly what he would be wearing the dinner so that
> the lady could make certain she would not clash with it. 

Not that it helped.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
-----------------------------


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Subject: [h-cost] Tudor pregnant images
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I know that recently there was a discussion on images of Tudor ladies 
in "pregnant gowns" but I read and dismissed it as interesting not 
relevant. Well, it's come back to bite me!! Did anyone keep a file of 
the images that they could share please? It is only images that I 
need, not the text.

Thanks

suzi


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Subject: [h-cost] Mouldy linen
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Have you tried soaking the garment in Vodka or other similar alcohol
overnight (even rubbing alcohol might work).

We used to do that with some theatre garments that came from of our more
"fragrant" actors and when washing didn't work to remove the scent. Since
it can kill bacteria that causes scent, perhaps it would work on mold as
well?

Patches
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References: <BB3EEC584579204DB6E2CA0F6DB7566F0130D5FC@exbe01.blue.jays.creighton.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dangerous Liasions book
Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2006 20:56:56 +0200
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Hi Cindy,
Thanks for your rewiev.
I have oredered mine, and i am waiting inpatiently. Because i ordered a book 
about Toille de Joy also, i had to waite till it get there, to get the 
museum catalogue.
Wished i had the chance to see the exhibition for real!

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 5:34 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Dangerous Liasions book


> Two years ago the Metropolitan Museum of Art had an exibition "Dangerous
> Liasions: Fashion and Furniture in the 18th century" and a companion
> book was promised.
>
> Now the book is out, published by the Met in tandem with Yale University
> Press. I locked in the price of my copy at $13.95 preordered from
> Amazon.com last year and it is here!  For all of you 18th fashion
> lovers, the book is a visual feast of mannikins posed in 18th clothes in
> recreated rooms, living la vie l'amour in various stages from awaiting a
> love letter to flirtation to very close encounters of the sexual kind.
> Drool worthy fashions and settings with the added addition of tie-in
> artwork from the Met's collection and essays documenting the stages of
> love in each room at different times of the day.
>
> The book was actualized in hardcover, instead of paperback at a higher
> price now, but for those awaitng the Marie Antoinette film, even if we
> can just critique it to death for what they got wrong, this is the real
> deal. Best price is at Amazon.com
>
> There is a stunning, ombre woven dress in the book where the original
> fabric could walk down the runway today in a modern designed outfit and
> look stunning!
>
> Cindy Abel
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knight's Tale
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AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> Snerf.  I thought they might as well  have kept the jousting, plumped for 
> a modern setting and achieved less net  total anachronism.
>
>
>
> ***********************
>  
> And I thought it so mixed up and vapid as to not even be worth the effort  of 
> hating it...or ever thinking about it again. 
>   
To tell you the truth, I mainly remember it because I was away from home 
and saw it at the then partially-restored Embassy Theatre in Wellington 
(the one where they later had the Lord of the Rings premiere)

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
-----------------------------


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knight's Tale
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon L. Krossa" <skrossa-ml@medievalscotland.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 2:17 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knight's Tale


> So anachronism, especially deliberate anachronism, in movies is fine 
> with me as long as the movie isn't trying to fool people into 
> believing it isn't anachronism -- I'll take A Knight's Tale and 
> Shakespeare In Love over Elizabeth or That Film Whose Name Shall Not 
> Be Uttered any day!
> 
> Sharon


lol...I have never yet seen That Movie. And I have no desire to do so!

Dianne
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor pregnant images
Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2006 14:41:21 -0700
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Subject: [h-cost] Tudor pregnant images


>
> I know that recently there was a discussion on images of Tudor ladies in 
> "pregnant gowns" but I read and dismissed it as interesting not relevant. 
> Well, it's come back to bite me!! Did anyone keep a file of the images 
> that they could share please? It is only images that I need, not the text.
>
> Thanks
>
> suzi
I've got some Jacobean pregnant ladies, but I don't think any of them are 
early than 1600.

Melusine 

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Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2006 16:43:15 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knight's Tale
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Jesus folks .. the snarking really needs to end. Sigh.


On Fri, April 21, 2006 3:22 pm, Dianne & Greg Stucki said:
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sharon L. Krossa" <skrossa-ml@medievalscotland.org>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 2:17 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knight's Tale
>
>
>> So anachronism, especially deliberate anachronism, in movies is
>> fine
>> with me as long as the movie isn't trying to fool people into
>> believing it isn't anachronism -- I'll take A Knight's Tale and
>> Shakespeare In Love over Elizabeth or That Film Whose Name Shall
>> Not
>> Be Uttered any day!
>>
>> Sharon
>
>
> lol...I have never yet seen That Movie. And I have no desire to do
> so!
>
> Dianne
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knight's Tale
Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2006 16:48:36 -0500
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Status: RO

I loved Knight's Tale.  It has such a sense of humor about itself, which 
I'll take any day over a movie that takes itself too seriously.  It was 
supposed to give modern-day, non-historians a feel for how jousting was 
regarded in its heyday--an exciting, hip sporting event, complete with rabid 
fans and regional rivalries--and I think that the anachronisms added to that 
rather than taking away from it.

By the way, the commentary for the DVD is pretty darn funny, and full of the 
director making straight-faced comments such as how surprised he'd been to 
find out that David Bowie was not, in fact, a medieval bard.  (He also 
explains what 'fong' means.) AKT is one of the very few movies I actually 
liked well enough to buy on DVD, which for me is saying a lot.

Besides, I'm a huge Alan Tudyk fan. (The red-headed, frog-faced guy who 
played Wat and wanted to fong everyone.)

-E House

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knight's Tale
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Speaking of Alan Tudyk brings to mind another
odd/wonderful costume display - Firefly & Serenity. 
Not your "normal" sci fi outing but really fun.  I
love the blend of cultural influences - it must have
been a blast to work on that series.  And Wash was one
of my favorites.

--- E House <formfunc@formfunction.org> wrote:

> I loved Knight's Tale.  It has such a sense of humor
> about itself, which 
> I'll take any day over a movie that takes itself too
> seriously.  It was 
> supposed to give modern-day, non-historians a feel
> for how jousting was 
> regarded in its heyday--an exciting, hip sporting
> event, complete with rabid 
> fans and regional rivalries--and I think that the
> anachronisms added to that 
> rather than taking away from it.
> 
> By the way, the commentary for the DVD is pretty
> darn funny, and full of the 
> director making straight-faced comments such as how
> surprised he'd been to 
> find out that David Bowie was not, in fact, a
> medieval bard.  (He also 
> explains what 'fong' means.) AKT is one of the very
> few movies I actually 
> liked well enough to buy on DVD, which for me is
> saying a lot.
> 
> Besides, I'm a huge Alan Tudyk fan. (The red-headed,
> frog-faced guy who 
> played Wat and wanted to fong everyone.)
> 
> -E House
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Possibly little known costume film
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"The Life and Death of Colonel Blimp," produced in England in 1943 in 
early Technicolor (which here comes off looking painterly rather than 
crude). This film is a rather mild, understanding, even sentimental 
satire of the Victorian/Edwardian school of gentlemanly war, and indeed 
of that style of gentleman. However, due to the war effort the film came 
under a great deal of criticism at the time, and Churchill was among 
those who felt it should not even be released.  With historical 
hindsight, its political points seem quite true, rather than inflammatory.

But it's not entirely a war flick; in fact, it's in large part a 
romance.  It starts in 1901 or 1902 (I forget which) and continues up to 
the early 1940s.  As far as costumes, settings, etc. go it's quite 
lavish for its period.

It's a good thing this film has been re-released.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com







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Please remove me from the h-costume mailing list.
   
  Thank you,
  Sharon Kelley

			
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hi,
Have any here, tryed out the J.P. Ryan´s Gentlemans Jacket 1770?
I have ordered this pattern, and would ask if there is something i should 
notice?

Bjarne



Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: [h-cost] Pregnant Tudors 
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This pregnant Tudor lady is currently on show at the Tate Britain...

http://www.tate.org.uk/servlet/ViewWork?workid=27365&searchid=22478


>Message: 11
>Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2006 21:50:50 +0100
>From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
>Subject: [h-cost] Tudor pregnant images
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.0.20060421205919.01e0f490@127.0.0.1>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
>
>I know that recently there was a discussion on images of Tudor ladies
>in "pregnant gowns" but I read and dismissed it as interesting not
>relevant. Well, it's come back to bite me!! Did anyone keep a file of
>the images that they could share please? It is only images that I
>need, not the text.
>
>Thanks
>
>suzi
>


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Subject: [h-cost] Movies, was: Knight's Tale
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     Plunkett and MacLean was an 18thC movie that used some modern music. 
On the one hand it was odd, but we expect background music in movies.

     What struck me as odd was that the movie was set mid-century (I think
it said 1740 or 1750 on screen), and a fashion-forward character was
dressed in 1790s style.

     -Carol

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Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2006 18:50:21 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dangerous Liasions book
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In a message dated 4/21/2006 5:24:08 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

I have  oredered mine, and i am waiting inpatiently. Because i ordered a book 
 
about Toille de Joy also, i had to waite till it get there, to get the  
museum catalogue.



I ordered two books from Amazon--the said DL, and the 19th c. Fashion in  
Detail.  Amazon shipped the latter when it was available, and the DL book  just 
last week, but still didn't charge me the shipping charge.  So you may  get 
your books separately, Bjarne.
 
Ann Wass
 
P.S.  Two things about the DL book--first, the page numbers are  microscopic. 
 Second, while the pictures are to drool over (and I saw the  exhibit, too), 
I find the text almost too fey and precious.  Maybe ALL the  French 
aristocrats carried on like that--after all, there was a revolution--but  weren't ANY of 
them devoted family types who stayed home, tended their estates,  and raised 
their families?  (Oh, I know, that sounds so veddy  English!)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knight's Tale
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Shiny! =}

Ob costume comment--Inara has some pretty darn spiffy outfits, and I made my 
husband a suede browncoat.

-E House


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "REBECCA BURCH" <ctrvlyfarm@sbcglobal.net>
> Speaking of Alan Tudyk brings to mind another
> odd/wonderful costume display - Firefly & Serenity.
> Not your "normal" sci fi outing but really fun.  I
> love the blend of cultural influences - it must have
> been a blast to work on that series.  And Wash was one
> of my favorites.

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In a message dated 4/21/2006 5:44:11 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
chiara@io.com writes:

Jesus  folks .. the snarking really needs to end. Sigh.



***************
 
Why is that? It's only a movie. Those of us who don't like it certainly  
don't extend such feelings to the people who do like it. A little snarking can  be 
fun....and  sometimes start a good  discussion.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Movies, was: Knight's Tale
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In a message dated 4/21/2006 6:48:17 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
aquazoo@patriot.net writes:

What  struck me as odd was that the movie was set mid-century (I think
it said  1740 or 1750 on screen), and a fashion-forward character was
dressed in  1790s style.



******************
 
 
Designers often use styles from the whole century all at once without  
following the time line. They seem to do this more in the 18th century than any  
other. Perhaps because the changes aren't a drastic as they are in the 19th  
century. Although, I can't tell you how many 1840s and 1850s dresses get used in  
Civil War epics!
I once worked for an LA designer who mainly did TV. He and his assistant  
were snotty to us hayseeds [they thought] here in NC. His assistant with his  
nose in the air gave me a speech on how carefully they had researched and how  
the designer was a stickler for accuracy. Then he handed me to alter for the  
engenue: a wool plaid dress, closing CB with hooks & eyes, the bodice  gathered 
a la verge at the deep CF point, horizontal decolatage, with  longish 
manchions and long bias-cut tight sleeves. The skirt was cartridge  pleated all the 
way round...even down and around the point. The film took  place in 1863. 
Yeah....a stickler for accuracy alright. 
 
[For those who's period is not the mid 1800s, all those details  
scream....and I mean scream... 1840s]
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Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2006 21:31:16 -0400
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor pregnant images
References: <20060421184424.GIPQ10730.ibm65aec.bellsouth.net@mail.bellsouth.net>
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Quoting Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>:

>
> I know that recently there was a discussion on images of Tudor ladies 
> in "pregnant gowns" but I read and dismissed it as interesting not 
> relevant. Well, it's come back to bite me!! Did anyone keep a file of 
> the images that they could share please? It is only images that I 
> need, not the text.
>

Suzi, here's the list I've collected

The tinyurl is the link to the same page .....

Well, it's definately Eleanora (I found this one on the web somewhere,
and seem to have misplaced the information.  If it's yours, please let
me know) just look at that pregnant face ...
http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Paintings/bronzinoFollower_EleanorToledo.j
pg
http://tinyurl.com/9fn48
and she certainly looks pregnant to me!

Bianca Capello -- found this one on the web too
http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Paintings/unNoted_BiancaCapello.jpg
http://tinyurl.com/css6h

Wife of John Thynne -- found this one on the web as well
http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Paintings/english_WifeJohnThynne-euh02108.jpg
http://tinyurl.com/b8vw9

Maegherita of Austria
http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Paintings/gonzalez_MargheritaAustria.jpg
http://tinyurl.com/8rqty

The 2 by Marcus gheeraerts, I found here
http://www.tate.org.uk/servlet/ArtistWorks?cgroupid=999999961&artistid=206
The Pearly Queen
http://www.tate.org.uk/collection/T/T07/T07699_9.jpg
and protrait of a woman in red
http://www.tate.org.uk/collection/T/T03/T03456_9.jpg
That last one is from 1620.

http://www.weissgallery.com/detail.asp?id=26&category=current

I may have another one, I'm not sure.

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Knight's Tale
Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2006 18:50:40 -0700
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I agree- the leading lady was SO out of period. I kept thinking one hat
looked more like it belonged in "Breakfast at Tiffany's". The costumes
bothered me more than the music.
Sharon 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Alexandria Doyle
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 8:40 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knight's Tale


> >I loved that movie. But I wasn't expecting authenticity, I was 
> >expecting FUN, and I got that.  The characters were enjoyable, and 
> >the story was classic "poor boy makes good", which is timeless.
>
> I couldn't stop laughing through the whole movie.  I thought it was 
> hilarious.  Bought it, and listened to the commentary by the director 
> and... the guy who plays Chaucer... and they mocked themselves the 
> whole way through.  The director kept saying stuff like, "No one told 
> me they didn't do that back then."


I enjoyed the movie as well, since I wasn't expecting authenticity either. I
however would have like to have seen the leading lady in costumes more
appropriate to the setting.  That was too jarring, when everyone else around
her was wearing something closer to the correct stuff.

I try to enjoy movies for their entertainment value, the story, etc.  it's
just when they try to tell you that the film is historically correct that I
get upset over the details that are just so wrong...

alex
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Knight's Tale
Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2006 18:53:43 -0700
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Do you mean "Macbeth"? (hee-hee)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sharon L. Krossa
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 11:18 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Knight's Tale


At 2:52 PM +1200 4/21/06, Adele de Maisieres wrote:
>>>They did the same thing with "A Knight's Tale".  Decent story, fun 
>>>characters and okay clothing but the music......Very rock and totally 
>>>out of place (along with the icky lampshade hat on his girlfriend).
>>
>>Now, see I thought the music and the "medieval punk" really MADE the 
>>movie. It would have been boring w/o it, IMO.
>
>Snerf.  I thought they might as well have kept the jousting, plumped 
>for a modern setting and achieved less net total anachronism.

I confess I prefer it when historically inspired movies include such 
anachronisms as obviously modern rock music -- it helps the audience 
keep in mind that they are watching fiction, and that they shouldn't 
believe what they're seeing is real after the reel ends.

So anachronism, especially deliberate anachronism, in movies is fine 
with me as long as the movie isn't trying to fool people into 
believing it isn't anachronism -- I'll take A Knight's 
