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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20061130201542.38109.qmail@web52104.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Stranded Silk Floss
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2006 16:35:41 +0100
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Status: RO

Dear Kathy,
I am a big consumer of Eterna stranded silk floss. I have kg.s of it in 
boxes here.
I have taken many greens, its always nice  with sellections of greens for 
flower leaves. Also a lot of reds. A little les of blues. They dont have 
many yellows, so perhaps some of those would be nice, orange two. Some 
purples are also nice. Black, white and grey.
What i dont use much of is browns.
But wich collours of use in the different periods, you better ask somebody 
else.
Another time i would be very interrested if we could share an order of the 
lawn. I got contakt to the lady who closed the embroidery shop, and she is 
sending me some of that fine linnen i was talking about.

Many greetings

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kathy Page" <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
To: "Historical Costume List" <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 9:15 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Stranded Silk Floss


I am trying to sort out what colours to stock most of when I finally start 
ordering in floss stock from Eterna Silks - I plan on selling their line of 
stranded silk, and as demand sees fit, others in time. I thought originally 
to find a bunch of embroidery books and use them as my references (I plan on 
making up floss packs that one can buy a range of colours for a group price) 
but realised that if I compared to extant, I will be getting today's 
colours, which could be faded or otherwise altered by time. If people are 
wanting these flosses for reproduction work, they want it to look how it did 
when it was new.
Does anyone out there have a decent book or two I can use as reference for 
colouring relative to historical dying of silk? I'd like to for example, 
have a pack for Norse, Tudor, Elizabethan, Byzantine, Heraldic, etc that 
covers the general colour tones one would expect to find in such periods and 
cultures. I have 575 colours to choose from, and as much as I would like to 
buy one of everything and just go to town, it's not a practical approach to 
efficient stocking.
I'm hoping to get some stock in and at least try to get a bit of Christmas 
rush covered, but this issue is kind of hanging me up.

On the topic of Kammerdug (which I did a little searching and it translates 
to lawn), I can get linen as fine as that here in North America, and if 
anyone wants it, I'll gather an order. The merchant that Kimiko mentioned I 
am betting is buying from the same company as I do, however theirs is the 
narrower Czech - nothing wrong with it, just a middle-high end grade. I have 
bolts of both and can compare. I have been getting the museum quality 
Belgian cambric from them, and it is so fine and lovely that angels fear to 
touch it. It's pricey, but oh-so-worth it. I can't afford to stock this 
item, I just act as the clearing house for gathered orders. They require a 
minimum purchase.

Thanks

Kathy

Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose 
Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert
(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules.

It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. 
http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131



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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20061130204629.37757.qmail@web37311.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Query about Mod and the mid-1960's
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2006 16:28:12 +0100
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Status: RO

What about try to look at the library? I know for instance the library at 
Museum of Decorative Arts in Copenhagen takes home all the fashion journals, 
and i think they have archived these.
Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 9:46 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Query about Mod and the mid-1960's


> Greetings everyone!
>
> I'm popping out of lurkdom after Worldcon and Loscon to ask for help while 
> setting up another group set of costumes for next year's Friday Night Fun. 
> Wonder of wonders, they are pulling me out of medieval era 
> clothing/costume and into making more early-to-mid 20th century stuff.
>
> The theme is "Mod" as in the mid 1960's.  My tighter focus, at least in 
> theory, is going to be closer to the items worn by Diana Riggs in the 
> Avengers, or one of the other similar designers, but I am also finding 
> interesting comments about a couple of other designers.  I'll share a few 
> of the ones I don't want for myself with some of the other folks doing the 
> theme who haven't chosen yet as well.
>
> So my request is help in finding photos of garments made by John Bates 
> (Jean Varon), Andre Courneges, or Paco Rabanne.  I'll be trying to 
> determine a fiber which I can easily wear, as most of the polyester I 
> remember from that time (since I was well, very young then) makes me break 
> out in serious cases of the itchies now.
>
> My husband's first vote is for the immediately identifiable first season 
> Emma Peel leather catsuit, but I want to see a few other ideas before I 
> make up my mind. (*grin*)
>
> Then to find a nice pair of 1940's patterns for me- one for day and one 
> for evening!
>
> Thank you,
>
> Jonnalyhn Wolfcat aka Angharat
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
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Status: RO

It's that oh so fashionable time of the year.  Holiday parties, gifts,
theater season, formal dress of all eras. Maybe even a New Years Eve
ensemble  What are you working on?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Status: RO

At 18:58 01/12/2006, you wrote:
>It's that oh so fashionable time of the year.  Holiday parties, gifts,
>theater season, formal dress of all eras. Maybe even a New Years Eve
>ensemble  What are you working on?
>--cin
>Cynthia Barnes
>CinBarnes@gmail.com


Mine is wearing padding, a shift, corset and pink check pocket hoops 
for a sacque I am making for a lady to wear at the Venice Carnival in 
February next year. There is a caraco jacket and petticoat to follow, 
plus three more suits, (I have made one)  a waistcoat, and three 
shirts for her husband. Holiday, what holiday!?

Suzi

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
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Status: RO

Cin wrote:

> It's that oh so fashionable time of the year.  Holiday parties, gifts,
> theater season, formal dress of all eras. Maybe even a New Years Eve
> ensemble  What are you working on?

Nothing. Absolutely nothing. I've been seriously un-motivated for the 
past year. :(

I saw a very nice embroidered (encrusted, more like it) silk jacket in a 
Heathrow shop last week, similar to one I planned to make back in, oh, 
maybe 1994. So I dug out the silk and fancy thread I bought at Vogue all 
those years ago, and have been looking at it with intent...


Dawn


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Query about Mod and the mid-1960's
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Status: RO

Angharad ver' Reynulf wrote:


> So my request is help in finding photos of garments made by John Bates (Jean Varon), Andre Courneges, or Paco Rabanne.  I'll be trying to determine a fiber which I can easily wear, as most of the polyester I remember from that time (since I was well, very young then) makes me break out in serious cases of the itchies now.  
> 

The V&A is currently running a 60's exhibit. They may have photos on 
their website, or books of interest to you.

http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/1960s/sixtiesfashion/index.html


Dawn



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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] Remaining patterns reduced to 60%
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Status: RO

            Please forgive the cross-posts, but I'm trying to move the
remaining 133 patterns. I've decided to reduce these to the great savings of
60% discount. We still have stock in the following patterns lines:

*	Attic Copies - Edwardian and Vintage (3 children's patterns left)
*	DL Designs - two vintage hat patterns left
*	Eagle's View - Buckskinning
*	Folkwear - Ethnic, Victorian
*	Heirloom - Victorian and Amish style bonnets
*	Missouri River - buckskinning and native 
*	Northwest Traders - buckskinning and native
*	Past Patterns - Victorian, Edwardian and Vintage - some great
wedding gowns
*	Patterns of History - Edwardian wedding gown left
*	Pegee - Gone with the Wind and 18th century
*	Period Impressions - 18th century, American Civil War, Victorian
*	Rocking Horse Farm - 18th century, Victorian, Vintage
*	Smoke and Fire - men's 18th century cap pattern left
*	 

At these prices you can't go wrong, even with some of the lines which are
best left to costume; use perhaps as examples of good, better, best patterns
for those of you teaching units, etc., or for those wanting costume. There
are still some decent patterns left in Period Impressions, mostly American
Civil War (early/mid Victorian).

Regards,

Lorina

Five Rivers Chapmanry

purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.

519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org

 

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Status: RO

Hi,

Mine is wearing my 1860 dress that I am improving and made a day bodice for.
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19woman/Victorian/jurk.jpg
I am going to wear it 9 December at an Anton Piek fair.
And there is still so much that I need to do...
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19woman/Victorian/Victorian.html

Greetings,
       Deredere


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From: Sheridan <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
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Status: RO

At the moment she's wearing nothing but a partially constructed habotai silk gomlek (turkish shirt), but I just divested her of these:   http://spohl.photosite.com/Costumes/

She's also had a couple of dance costumes that were in need of minor repairs, and will soon be wearing a lovely ruffled petal skirt (viole(n)t purple satin and black chiffon overlay) that is sewn but needs to be marked for a waistband.

Sheridan P.
> 
> From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
> Date: 2006/12/01 Fri PM 01:58:45 EST
> To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
> 
> It's that oh so fashionable time of the year.  Holiday parties, gifts,
> theater season, formal dress of all eras. Maybe even a New Years Eve
> ensemble  What are you working on?
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Status: RO



A box ... still not unpacked.


On Fri, December 1, 2006 12:58 pm, Cin said:
> It's that oh so fashionable time of the year.  Holiday parties,
> gifts,
> theater season, formal dress of all eras. Maybe even a New Years Eve
> ensemble  What are you working on?
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Query about Mod and the mid-1960's
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Thread-Topic: [h-cost] Query about Mod and the mid-1960's
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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Status: RO

One: Google the designers you mentioned and don't forget Mary Quant,
Biba(the store), or Ozzie Clark. The Brit invasion (of their designers)
had probably a bigger impact on what most people wore than most European
fashion houses.

Two: If you can find one of the Dover published "Fashions of the 1960's
as pictured in the Sears Catalog" that is a pretty good source as to
what people wore.

Three: Any book featuring color pics of fashions from the '60's and if
you can lay your hands on some Harper's Bazaar, Vogue, Elle, or
Seventeen and Glamour mags those are really valuable sources.

Or take a look at what Mattel came up for Barbie and gang, especially
for Barbie's "Mod-ern cousin, Francie and British cousin Stacie dolls.
Mattel did a Twiggy doll too and the fashions Mattel did at this time
are just a time capsule of Mod fashion in doll scale. There are at least
two books covering the Barbie Mattel line and those fashions.

I myself wore a Carnaby street knock-off from the Sears catalog--a royal
blue mini dress with white shirt-style collar and cuffs. From the collar
was a faux man's four-in-hand tie in shocking pink with little white
dots. Completing the look, I also had shocking pink knee-high socks,
black Mary Jane shoes and the royal blue Dutch boy cap that came with
the dress.

I was ten and it is the first outfit I remember that 1)was the latest
style, 2)all the pieces matched, and 3)didn't include a hand-me-down
from my older cousins, or wasn't mother or grandmother made. 

In the 60's an all store-bought outfit in the mod style was a status
symbol in my neighborhood. Fortunately, I was young and thin enough to
wear a mini and look "cute" without Dad hitting the ceiling. Older girls
in my neighborhood had to "fight" parents to wear minis and school rules
that actually measured girl's skirt lengths to make sure we weren't
"indecent"

Ah, youth!!

Have fun researching!!

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 9:28 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Query about Mod and the mid-1960's

What about try to look at the library? I know for instance the library
at 
Museum of Decorative Arts in Copenhagen takes home all the fashion
journals, 
and i think they have archived these.
Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 9:46 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Query about Mod and the mid-1960's


> Greetings everyone!
>
> I'm popping out of lurkdom after Worldcon and Loscon to ask for help
while 
> setting up another group set of costumes for next year's Friday Night
Fun. 
> Wonder of wonders, they are pulling me out of medieval era 
> clothing/costume and into making more early-to-mid 20th century stuff.
>
> The theme is "Mod" as in the mid 1960's.  My tighter focus, at least
in 
> theory, is going to be closer to the items worn by Diana Riggs in the 
> Avengers, or one of the other similar designers, but I am also finding

> interesting comments about a couple of other designers.  I'll share a
few 
> of the ones I don't want for myself with some of the other folks doing
the 
> theme who haven't chosen yet as well.
>
> So my request is help in finding photos of garments made by John Bates

> (Jean Varon), Andre Courneges, or Paco Rabanne.  I'll be trying to 
> determine a fiber which I can easily wear, as most of the polyester I 
> remember from that time (since I was well, very young then) makes me
break 
> out in serious cases of the itchies now.
>
> My husband's first vote is for the immediately identifiable first
season 
> Emma Peel leather catsuit, but I want to see a few other ideas before
I 
> make up my mind. (*grin*)
>
> Then to find a nice pair of 1940's patterns for me- one for day and
one 
> for evening!
>
> Thank you,
>
> Jonnalyhn Wolfcat aka Angharat
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
____________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
> http://new.mail.yahoo.com
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Madame de Canaples by Jean Clouet--need better image 
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2006 17:44:39 -0600
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Status: RO

Ignore this--for some reason this message took a day or two to come through 
to the list, and I've already gotten a great image from an x-post!

-E 

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2006 19:35:24 -0500
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Status: RO

Lots and lots of Viking apron dresses.  I've made about 5 so far this year.  

Now to make the tunics and smocks to wear with them.  :-)



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost


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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] looking for pictures of bum rolls
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

That's my impression as well. Especially here:
  http://homepage.mac.com/muzette/Eng.File/Art/Gallery_pages/Gallery_bal.html 
The curve at the skirt is very sharp - as if there was a wheel farthingale. A bumroll would make a much more rounded look. Also the bend of the skirt is kind of too far from the waist, this would mean that the bumroll must have been quite large, but then it would make quite a round shape...
  
"Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote:
  It seems to be that the women are wearing wheel farthingales, not bumrolls
alone.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Elizabeth Walpole
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 12:31 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for pictures of bum rolls



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" 
To: "Historical Costume" 
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 6:27 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for pictures of bum rolls


>
> Following up my own post (below): Here's one of the images:
>
> http://www.insecula.com/oeuvre/photo_ME0000057470.html
>
> The presence of rolls is very clear, particularly on the woman in the
> right foreground, but on some others as well.
>
> It does seem to be at the Louvre, as I was remembering. I probably have
> some photos of it and its mate, but I haven't gotten around to indexing
> all of the 500 or so slides I took in Paris ... a few years ago ... yeesh,
> I will never get them all straight.
>
> --Robin
>
Aha! I found another 
http://homepage.mac.com/muzette/Eng.File/Art/Gallery_pages/Gallery_bal.html 
it's not that big but this is the one I was thinking of.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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From: "Elisabeth Doornink" <missdoornink@gmail.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
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Status: RO

Matilda (I love naming my forms!) was wearing my mom's bunad (Norwegian
National costume, but she's naked *grin* at the moment. Coming up soon,
though, is a burgundy and black natural form gown for Christmas!

Quia Christus perpetuo regnat, 
Elisabeth


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Cin
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 10:59 AM
To: h-cost
Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

It's that oh so fashionable time of the year.  Holiday parties, gifts,
theater season, formal dress of all eras. Maybe even a New Years Eve
ensemble  What are you working on?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2006 13:31:32 -0800 (PST)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

My dummy currently has a Henrician kirtle on it, hung over the top since it won't actually fit the dress form, and the straps aren't finished on it anyway. I am working on the gown now, with a big skirt with train, my first train on any dress, and I am procrastinating, and not wanting to work on it so I am writing on here instead. I am almost done, too. Just don't want to sew the final panels of the skirt for some reason.
   
  But I do need to finish it. Yule for my local SCA Barony is next week, and it must get done, along with a winter partlet so I don't freeze my upper half.
   
  Kimiko
  

Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com> wrote:
  It's that oh so fashionable time of the year. Holiday parties, gifts,
theater season, formal dress of all eras. Maybe even a New Years Eve
ensemble What are you working on?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

 	
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Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2006 16:21:28 -0800
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: re: [h-cost] Query about Mod and the mid-1960's
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Status: RO

You're in luck!  The V&A London is doing "Carnaby Street" as their
winter show. Lots of Mod, Mary Quant, & one Rabanne.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

Subject: [h-cost] Query about Mod and the mid-1960's
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>

So my request is help in finding photos of garments made by John Bates
(Jean Varon), Andre Courneges, or Paco Rabanne.  I'll be trying to
determine a fiber which I can easily wear, as most of the polyester I
remember from that time (since I was well, very young then) makes me
break out in serious cases of the itchies now.

Jonnalyhn Wolfcat aka Angharat
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Subject: [h-cost] Dawn - need contact, don't have you're off list address
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Dawn,
   
  I accidently lost my person's contact info for the Holiday Gift Exhange and can't seen to find you're e-mail either.  Can you send me the info off list?
   
  Sarah Nucci

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
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Status: RO

>What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

The sewing machine has a cute navy mid-1920s (repro) beaded dance
frock in navy silk chiffon over navy peau de soie.  It's being
remodeled (as in reduced to flat & start over).  A friend gifted me
with the destroyed dress after it went thru the wash.  I'm trying to
rebuild it.

Euphrosnia is wearing parts of the perpetually unfinished Eleanor of
Toledo dress that goes with the red velvet chopines.  She's hoping
I'll mark the bodice closures soon.

Adonis is as all Adonises should be: nekkid as a jaybird!
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
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Status: RO

Right now all but one are shamefully naked.

That one (male) is wearing a partially made 126th century fencing doublet 
(leather).

Another (male) has just got rid of a red C15th doublet.

And a female one is about to model succession of frilly victorian 
concoctions.

And the little one (kid) has just got rid of padded jack, and is about to be 
tudor. 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
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Status: RO

PPS
of course, "weeding'" should read "wedding"
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Status: RO



"a partially made 126th century fencing doublet"

I'd like to see that... (couldn't help myself, sorry)

Laurie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
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Status: RO

> At 18:58 01/12/2006, you wrote:
>>It's that oh so fashionable time of the year.  Holiday parties, gifts,
>>theater season, formal dress of all eras. Maybe even a New Years Eve
>>ensemble  What are you working on?
>>--cin
>>Cynthia Barnes
>>CinBarnes@gmail.com
> Mine is wearing padding, a shift, corset and pink check pocket hoops for a 
> sacque I am making for a lady to wear at the Venice Carnival in February 
> next year. There is a caraco jacket and petticoat to follow, plus three 
> more suits, (I have made one)  a waistcoat, and three shirts for her 
> husband. Holiday, what holiday!?
>
> Suzi

I'm with you, Suzi.  This is my busiest season, with most of my clients 
wanting things for 12th Night, or Mardi Gras.  Right now, Yasmine is wearing 
pink striped fabric that is to be a new cover for her if I ever get a minute 
to make it up.  Over that is draped a royal blue wool cassock that needs to 
go out the door next Thurs.  Next up is an early 17th cen. court suit in 
slate blue and red, trimmed in gold, made from a silk sari supplied by the 
customer.  Not correct for the period, but it is going to look nice.  I'm 
also trying to get a forest green trimmed with royal blue 17th cen. suit 
done for my husband, in my copious spare time.

Melusine 

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Status: RO

I don't have a dressmaker's dummy, unless it's me <g>.  My costume/clothing
project du jour, though, is an interpretation of a 12th? century depiction
of Philosophy.  She wears a mid-calf outer gown with a fabric patterned in
diamond shapes; it has modestly-wide, full-length sleeves, and does not have
very full skirts.  Trim bands on the sleeve hands and hem (can't tell about
the neckline--it's covered by the veil.) Her inner gown has tight, wrinkled
sleeves, and a hem long enough to puddle on the floor.  From the wrinkles,
it's much more full than the outer garment, and probably made of a fabric
with a softer hand as well.
I'm guessing that the original outer garment was some sort of fancy wool, or
perhaps a silk brocade, and of a distinctly heavier weight than the under
layer.  I found some red/gold upholstery fabric that will work well as the
outer garment, although it's not from authentic materials.  I'd intended the
under layer to be royal blue silk, but the stuff I ordered, although lovely,
is a shade or so off from what I'd envisioned.  So I'm not sure if I'm going
to use the silk anyway, or just some lightweight, royal-blue linen that I
have.
I'll be wearing a standard, mid-calf, plain linen shift and wool hose with
garters underneath.  And turnshoes (black).  The veil is hemmed, and I
intend to play with it this weekend, since I've not worn many of them.
I need to get my act together, though--the SCA event at which I want to wear
it is in exactly two weeks! Eeek!
After the Christmas rush, I'm going to have time to go back to practicing my
crochet stitches for my "Mrs Weasley" cardigan.  ;o) I've just *got* to have
a HP outfit (suitable robes and all, although I'm far past the age where I'd
make a believable Hogwarts student, so instead, I'm a graduate who currently
has a shop in Diagon Alley).
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Cin" <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: "h-cost" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 11:58 AM
Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?


> It's that oh so fashionable time of the year.  Holiday parties, gifts,
> theater season, formal dress of all eras. Maybe even a New Years Eve
> ensemble  What are you working on?
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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	<200612011935.24272.cathy@thyrsus.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2006 19:54:25 -0700
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Status: RO

I've been making those, too, this year.  Have a few in a big pile of linen
and wool on my kitchen table, as a matter of fact. <g>  Ahh, the advantages
of living alone! ;o)
--Sue
----- Original Message -----
From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 5:35 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?


> Lots and lots of Viking apron dresses.  I've made about 5 so far this
year.
>
> Now to make the tunics and smocks to wear with them.  :-)
>
>
>
> --
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
> of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <054401c714c1$bca67e20$eb00a8c0@compaqub>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Madame de Canaples by Jean Clouet--need better image 
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2006 20:12:21 -0700
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Status: RO

Now, that is one *seriously* cool portrait, and not one I've seen before!
Those undersleeves *rock!*
I like the hint of an undergown in the corners of her neckline....
It'd definitely be a fun outfit to do, if I ever get back to the 16th
century....
--Sue
----- Original Message -----
From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: <pleatwork@yahoogroups.com>; <h-costume@indra.com>;
<SCA-Garb@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 1:54 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Madame de Canaples by Jean Clouet--need better image


> Does anyone have a larger/higher resolution version of this painting?
> http://nationalgalleries.org/collections/artist_search.php?objectId=4764
>
> I'm especially interested in the sleeves, but also the neckline and the
headwear.
>
> -E House
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
> Now, that is one *seriously* cool portrait, and not one I've seen before!
> Those undersleeves *rock!*
> I like the hint of an undergown in the corners of her neckline....

See, this is why I love this particular stretch of time so much--they come 
up with so many weird variations, before settling on the 'Tudor' style...

-E House 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
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Status: RO

PS
Oh, and one is about to wear a succession of (modern) clothes for flogging on 
ebay, with proceeds to go into weedding fund!

Sadly - nothing for me as always.....
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
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Status: RO


If I had one, she'd be wearing a late 13th c. gown in a dark yellow wool 
that needs its sleeves re-done so they're properly tight, and new trim 
added. Over that, either a purple wool sleeveless gown or a red blanket 
wool sleeveless overgown that may have to become a detached-sleeve 
overgown. Both of those are in various stages of unfinished. I'd like 
to get the red one done before the end of next week but that's highly 
unlikely. I may have to settle for getting it done before 12th Night, 
with or without a fur-lined hood.

/pixel
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From: "margaret" <m.p.decker@att.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
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Status: RO

Well she's not here yet. Santa promised me one that will fit my Queen sized 
figure.
Margaret Decker 


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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Madame de Canaples by Jean Clouet--need better image 
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Status: RO

I never quite thought of it that way, but you're right!
I just really grooved with the 16th century because it was there that I
found that I could make clothing that looked good on me (sort of a major
revelation), plus, I got into monochrome embroidery in a very major way.
It's what I'm mostly known for in the SCA (at least, I think so! ;o)  And of
course, when I started down the slippery slope of historical costuming, a
couple of decades ago, most of what I could find for good sources on pre
17th-century clothing were are later stuff.
Now, though, I've been tempted into earlier paths.  I've kind of turned into
a pan-european/medieval clothing and fiber geek.  Most of what I'm doing is
much earlier, and then there's the eventual 14th century wardrobe ;o), and
the 16th century Venetian outfit to go with the blackworked camicia....
Never mind fibery pursuits like wanting to weave my own fabric for
historical clothing....
Geez, I think I need to win the lottery! ;o)
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 8:16 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Madame de Canaples by Jean Clouet--need better image


> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
> > Now, that is one *seriously* cool portrait, and not one I've seen
before!
> > Those undersleeves *rock!*
> > I like the hint of an undergown in the corners of her neckline....
>
> See, this is why I love this particular stretch of time so much--they come
> up with so many weird variations, before settling on the 'Tudor' style...
>
> -E House
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
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Status: RO

Be careful what you wish for, or more like, be specific. I got a Queen sized dress dummy from my DH (a MyDouble from Hancock's) a couple of years ago. But she goes in where I go out, and is bigger than I am in certain areas even at the smallest size. I had to make a brown tape dummy of me to find this out, as it won't fit my Queen sized dress form in those odd places. Now I am wishing for a different dress form, but my body is changing so I am going to wait till I stabilize.
   
  Kimiko
  

margaret <m.p.decker@att.net> wrote:
  Well she's not here yet. Santa promised me one that will fit my Queen sized 
figure.
Margaret Decker 

 
---------------------------------
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
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Status: RO

Never thought about naming my little ladies.  That could be fun.  Thank you 
for the clever idea.  During photographing sessions, I use the dressforms to 
wear original costumes in the university's fashion collection.  Maybe the 
dressforms names could change to popular names from the period dress they 
are wearing.

My youngest lady is a child's dressform for 19th and early 20th centuries 
costumes.  She is wearing a beautiful red/green tartan plaid bodice and 
skirt from the bustle era.  This was a recent donation.  I had her all 
decked out in her full costume and photographed it.  I needed to do the 
documentation and measurements on her, then one of the other teachers 
kidnapped her.  My tartan lady is now in the display case with other red 
dresses.  Maybe they are having a Red Cross Ball in the display window. 
Here she is:
http://www.costumegallery.com/VCU/Photos/bustle/P1040081lg.jpg

Another lady has on a c. 1910s white shirtwaist.  The same person donated 
the shirtwaist.  It has beautiful lace collar and bib. Here is this lady: 
http://www.costumegallery.com/VCU/Photos/1910/P1040106lg.jpg

My third lady is naked.  I have been photographing hats, so I have been 
playing with wig-stands instead of dressforms.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
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Alas, one just has a thrift-store silk scarf, and the other has a modern  
shirt of my husband's (picked up off the floor).  I promised myself no  sewing 
until I got my current writing project done.
 
I AM, though, trying to make a baby cap for a friend's baby, due next  week.  
But of course that doesn't need a form.
 
Ann Wass
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I rather like the idea of a weeding fund - what should we weed?=20
=20
Patty

________________________________

From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com on behalf of Debloughcostumes@aol.com
Sent: Fri 12/1/2006 9:00 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?



PPS
of course, "weeding'" should read "wedding"
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Penny Ladnier wrote:


> Another lady has on a c. 1910s white shirtwaist.  The same person 
> donated the shirtwaist.  It has beautiful lace collar and bib. Here is 
> this lady: http://www.costumegallery.com/VCU/Photos/1910/P1040106lg.jpg
> 

How does this shirt close? Up the front or the back?


Dawn


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From: "kelly grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <edcaf0220612011058x22cef670h14315768407370b2@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2006 13:21:14 -0400
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Status: RO

Right now, it's a dress from Janet Arnold's book, 1030's era with a fishtail 
ruffle down the back.  I was mid ruffle when my husband emailed from sea to 
tell me the party went from formal to casual...haven't worked on it since.

It may now become a short coctail dress, with the ruffle ending at the back 
'V'.

Kelly
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cin" <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: "h-cost" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 2:58 PM
Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?


> It's that oh so fashionable time of the year.  Holiday parties, gifts,
> theater season, formal dress of all eras. Maybe even a New Years Eve
> ensemble  What are you working on?
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 07:54:08 -0800 (PST)
From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kammerdug/linnen
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Status: RO

Hi Kimiko and Bjarne,

I am very familiar with this linen, I am betting my boots this is the same supplier I use.

2.8 oz is about as fine as you are going to get it. I have bolts of both the Czech linen (which is what this Draper is selling) and the Belgian, which is much wider but also *much* finer quality. This largely competes with the Italian, but better priced. (Belgian is running at about $36.00 CAD cost, Italian is about $100.00 per yard at COST- eek!) 

Kammerdug, I understand translates to lawm or lawn, which I believe is a shade heavier than cambric. The yardage that Kimiko showed is lighter yet than Kammerdug. Doing a little looking around, lawm tends to be placed into a similar category as organdy. You will find Batiste and voile in this family of weaves as well.

Between the two (Czech and Belgian) Czech is good, but as you mentioned, crisper. By comparison, the flaws are a little more noticable as well. There is some slubbiness to it. The Belgian doesn't have a slub larger than a pin head in the entire yardage. The Belgian is also qualified as "museum quality" and restoration shops use it for their work. (I found this out because my first order from the supplier was erroneously redirected to one of them!)

Something else I have found out in my pursuit of the perfect linen: the price. YIKES! It's shot up! I was told the reason for this was because the flax seed and oil industry is more lucrative than the linen textile, and because they cannot harvest both the stalk and the seed and reap the income from both, many farmers have opted to follow their pocket books and not let the stalks mature into useable plants for the textile industry. This of course creates a supply and demand problem, quickly filtering down to the end user. 

I can get this linen for you, I have a wholesale account. I just need to gather orders because I just can't keep this stuff in stock and they require a minimum purchase. But, if you want to keep some in stock for yourself, this is definitely the way to go. I may in time start stocking it, but I have to get some income rolling in another easier to sell department - I have a wholesale account for Eterna Silks as well. I will be selling their stranded silk flosses, other lines as the demand sees fit. 

Kathy

<snip>
We are searching for that
elusive fine linen.
   
  However, there is at least one site I know of a draper who sells fine 2.8 oz (~ 79.38 grams) linen. 
  http://wmboothdraper.com/Linen/linens_index.htm
  100% white handkerchief linen, 2.8 oz., 35” wide, $14.50/yd.
<snip>

I contakted the danish handicraft guild to enquire to their kammerdug (very 
fine handkerchief linnen) and was quite surprised to hear from them that 
this no longer is made.
I had baught from them about 10 years ago when i made a christening gown 
with bobbin lace. And i wanted more for a gentlemans shirt.
<snip>

Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert
(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules.

It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131

----- Original Message ----
From: "h-costume-request@indra.com" <h-costume-request@indra.com>
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 6:59:10 AM
Subject: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 744

Send h-costume mailing list submissions to
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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: kyoto stays again (AlbertCat@aol.com)
   2. WildThang2005 has invited you to FREE 3D avatar chat on    IMVU
      (WildThang2005)
   3. Re: Holbein exhibit (Dawn)
   4. Re: a question about museums (Bjarne og Leif Drews)
   5. kammerdug/linnen (Bjarne og Leif Drews)
   6. RE: a question about museums (Wanda Pease)
   7. Re: Holbein exhibit (Suzi Clarke)
   8. RE: Holbein exhibit (Anne Moeller)
   9. Re: kammerdug/linnen (Kimiko Small)
  10. Re: kammerdug/linnen (Sue Clemenger)
  11. RE: Holbein exhibit/London shows (Suzi Clarke)
  12. Re: kammerdug/linnen (Tania Gruning)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 14:56:55 EST
From: AlbertCat@aol.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kyoto stays again
To: h-costume@indra.com
Message-ID: <bf2.ace0506.329c9d07@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

 
In a message dated 11/25/2006 8:43:40 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com writes:

First  off, yup, I agree with you, they are a bit too big around the bust.  I 
 
think you could take them in along the side front curve and that would  work 
nicely.  It may also push her breasts together a bit, giving her  more 
cleavage.

I have a question though...Is she wearing them with  a bra in that photo?  If 
she is, it will throw off your fitting  entirely.  She should have a chemise 
to wear underneath, that's all,  then the stays can do their own work.  This 
may also be why she  believes they fit her.




*********************************************
 
Greetings....I hope everyone had a great holiday....those who had  
holidays....hell, and those who didn't!
 
Beautiful stays, of course, Bjarne. I would take in the bust area in bits  at 
several places, At the side AND the CF....and even somewhere in-between if  
possible, but that would require re-cutting the whole front after altering the  
pattern. And the decolletage may need to be lowered an inch or so.
And a fitting sans bra may release and free her bust to fill the front  of 
the corset more.


------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 12:22:49 -0800
From: "WildThang2005" <wildthangstreasures@yahoo.com>
Subject: [h-cost] WildThang2005 has invited you to FREE 3D avatar chat
    on    IMVU
To: "h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <200611272022.kARKMn9K016144@AF001122.prod.imvu.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

  WildThang2005 (wildthangstreasures@yahoo.com) has sent you this invitation to chat in 3D.    Hi,  I just downloaded IMVU 3D messenger, the cool new instant messaging software with 3D animated avatars. Let's try it out together. Basic membership is free, and it takes about a minute to create your own custom 3D avatar.        IMVU is a FREE 3D instant messaging software download.  It's an easy way to chat with friends and meet new people.  Build a customized, animated 3D identity from over 200,000 user created options.  Decorate your Avatar home page with stickers and powerful editing tools.  Have fun exploring cool 3D locations and animating your avatar!      It's free, and doesn't take long to set up. Sign up now!    If you have questions about IMVU or would like to contact us, please visit our website http://www.imvu.com                              Your buddy WildThang2005 (wildthangstreasures@yahoo.com) has invited you to chat in 3D!                                    
 !
                                                                                                                                                                      IMVU is the worlds greatest 3D instant messenger! Get IMVU now!                                                                                                                                                You are receiving this email because someone who knows you sent you an invitation to join them on imvu.com.&nbsp; If you want to prevent any future e-mail from IMVU, you can remove yourself from by pointing your web browser to http://www.imvu.com/catalog/web_nonregisteredoptout.php?code=33c1d5&email=h-costume@indra.com.&nbsp; Your opt-out confirmation code is 33c1d5        

------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 17:47:54 -0600
From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Holbein exhibit
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <456B792A.1010706@reddawn.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

Kimiko Small wrote:
> Thank you Janet for sharing this. 
>    
>   I see that there is a book on the collection, Holbein in England. Has anyone here seen the book, and is it worth getting for those rarely seen images, like the ones that for copyright restriction is not on the website?
>    

I saw the exhibit this weekend, and got this book. I agree with Suzi, it 
has excellent images, many full-page and very clearly reproduced. It has 
all the images (I think) and yes, there are a bunch of sketches and some 
portraits not usually reproduced in other books. There's also a good 
selection of non-portrait works, designs for jewelry and covered cups 
and such.

>   And looking at Amazon.com, I see the author, Susan Foister, has another book that is thicker
>   Holbein and England (Paul Mellon Centre for Studies)
>   Does anyone know of any details on this book?

It's like the catalogue, but I believe it covers all of Holbein, not 
just his years in England. It's at least two inches thick. I thought 
about getting it, but it was expensive and I thought it might put me 
over my luggage weight limit (no kidding!).



Dawn



------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 20:58:07 +0100
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] a question about museums
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <000401c7125e$5cd99e60$8e14a150@CPQ21932199711>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
    reply-type=original

Hi,
Yes you are right, i went to the museums website and they do have a 
photographer there, but i would have to pay him, and that would be 
expensive. Perhaps i could travel to Gotland for the same money.  I got the 
feeling that the museum would not mind me photographing the stays.
These stays are some of the most beautifull i have seen, very plain, but 
beautifull craftmanship. Grey linnen with blue tiny tapes at the seams. And 
besides this is very unusual dated from 1760-80 because it has a boatshaped 
neckline, with tied shoulderstraps off the shoulders.
I have ben thinking i would send Ian the staymaker a copy of the photo from 
the book, because it is so beautifull.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 6:04 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] a question about museums


>A lot of times it's pricey because they don't have a professional
> photographer on staff and to have one come in and do a set-up just for
> one object costs them a lot.
>
> Kate
> 609-570-3584
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
> On Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
> Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 9:19 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] a question about museums
>
> Museums are kinda weird this way.  The Phoenix Art Museum for instance
> has
> no photograph what so ever of the portrait of the dress I am
> recreating......you'd think they'd photograph everything just for
> insurance
> purposes.
>
> I'd contact the museum.  Often, they will photograph the article if you
> are
> willing to pay for it.  It can be pricey.  The Norton Simon Museum
> offered
> to do this for me on a particular portrait.  They wanted $100 6 years
> ago.
>
>
> Sg
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 




------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 23:59:21 +0100
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
Subject: [h-cost] kammerdug/linnen
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <000e01c71277$ae5a2520$2de73f50@CPQ21932199711>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
    reply-type=original

Hi,
I just wondered if some of you have had the same experienses.
I contakted the danish handicraft guild to enquire to their kammerdug (very 
fine handkerchief linnen) and was quite surprised to hear from them that 
this no longer is made.
I had baught from them about 10 years ago when i made a christening gown 
with bobbin lace. And i wanted more for a gentlemans shirt.
The only substitute they have is a linnen with 14 threads pr. centimeter, 
but thats not as fine as the old kammerdug.
Blast!

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 




------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 16:17:47 -0800
From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] a question about museums
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <HGEEKKPFPKOJBDPGKLOCGEHPNPAA.wandap@hevanet.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="iso-8859-1"

Goodness Gracious but I seem to be putting out a lot of grumpy posts lately.

Museums and many "collections" make the money to allow them to be open at
all from public donations, a tax stipend, or ticket sales.  All of these
come out of the public pocket.  Those who will not allow a member of that
public to take their own pictures without paying the high prices of a
"professional" strike me as a bit "dog in the manger" types (sorry Bjarne,
it's one of the Aesop tales - I'm sure it's familiar to you with different
wording).  When I took pictures in the Museum of Munich of the various
garments on display the only thing that they required is that I not utilize
a tripod or a flash.  The guard in each room asked me to demonstrate that I
had the flash "off" before I could take pictures in his room.  That way the
pieces were not being exposed to any more light than they ever were.  I had
two cameras with me.  One was a regular Pentax camera with 1600 ASA film,
but no flash attachment (he seemed to be a bit puzzled by that, I'm not sure
he'd seen a film camera before) and a 5Megabyte Sony (?).  I knew how to
turn the flash on and off, something that too many idiot tourists didn't, or
couldn't see why THEY should be restricted by such rules.  Something I doubt
that any on this list would give them a hassle about.

My non flash pictures with the film camera came out better than I could
actually see the items, which were kept in fairly dim rooms.

I know that someone is going to point out that the money the museum earns
from photographic reprints is a large part of their budget.  This is all
very well, but the pictures and other works of art and history are not
THEIRS.  They are caring for them for the people.  Well, I'm one of the
people too!  If it weren't for me and people like me the items would be used
to cover cabbages to keep them from frost.

Civil Servant (I'm One) does not equate to Civil Master.  The things in
museums are financed with your money!  Therefore it is not unreasonable for
you to be allowed to photograph an item very carefully so that possibly
hundreds of people could share your information and not just the few that
manage to come through "their museum" every year!

On the other hand I have been able to make arrangements with museums and
libraries in Germany and England and have them fall all over themselves to
help me get exactly what I wanted and allowed me to distribute as many
copies as I wanted (free, of course) as long as I mentioned them, and gave
their address.

Wanda
>
> Hi,
> Yes you are right, i went to the museums website and they do have a
> photographer there, but i would have to pay him, and that would be
> expensive. Perhaps i could travel to Gotland for the same money.
> I got the
> feeling that the museum would not mind me photographing the stays.
> These stays are some of the most beautifull i have seen, very plain, but
> beautifull craftmanship. Grey linnen with blue tiny tapes at the
> seams. And
> besides this is very unusual dated from 1760-80 because it has a
> boatshaped
> neckline, with tied shoulderstraps off the shoulders.
> I have ben thinking i would send Ian the staymaker a copy of the
> photo from
> the book, because it is so beautifull.
>
> Bjarne
>



------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 00:18:00 +0000
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Holbein exhibit
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20061128001625.033e09a0@suziclarke.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 23:47 27/11/2006, you wrote:
>Kimiko Small wrote:
>>Thank you Janet for sharing this.
>>   I see that there is a book on the collection, Holbein in 
>> England. Has anyone here seen the book, and is it worth getting 
>> for those rarely seen images, like the ones that for copyright 
>> restriction is not on the website?
>>
>
>I saw the exhibit this weekend, and got this book. I agree with 
>Suzi, it has excellent images, many full-page and very clearly 
>reproduced. It has all the images (I think) and yes, there are a 
>bunch of sketches and some portraits not usually reproduced in other 
>books. There's also a good selection of non-portrait works, designs 
>for jewelry and covered cups and such.
>
>>   And looking at Amazon.com, I see the author, Susan Foister, has 
>> another book that is thicker
>>   Holbein and England (Paul Mellon Centre for Studies)
>>   Does anyone know of any details on this book?
>
>It's like the catalogue, but I believe it covers all of Holbein, not 
>just his years in England. It's at least two inches thick. I thought 
>about getting it, but it was expensive and I thought it might put me 
>over my luggage weight limit (no kidding!).

Glad you got to see the exhibit. Did you take as long as us, or were 
you able to drag yourself away? I just love those drawings - so much 
detail, and so much more "real" than the oil paintings.

Suzi



------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 22:26:59 -0500
From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Holbein exhibit
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <009f01c7129d$10911ee0$0200a8c0@ANNESCOMPUTER>
Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="windows-1250"

WAAAAAH!!!!!  I didn't get to go:(

Is the book on the collection really good?

Anne

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 7:18 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Holbein exhibit

At 23:47 27/11/2006, you wrote:
>Kimiko Small wrote:
>>Thank you Janet for sharing this.
>>   I see that there is a book on the collection, Holbein in 
>> England. Has anyone here seen the book, and is it worth getting 
>> for those rarely seen images, like the ones that for copyright 
>> restriction is not on the website?
>>
>
>I saw the exhibit this weekend, and got this book. I agree with 
>Suzi, it has excellent images, many full-page and very clearly 
>reproduced. It has all the images (I think) and yes, there are a 
>bunch of sketches and some portraits not usually reproduced in other 
>books. There's also a good selection of non-portrait works, designs 
>for jewelry and covered cups and such.
>
>>   And looking at Amazon.com, I see the author, Susan Foister, has 
>> another book that is thicker
>>   Holbein and England (Paul Mellon Centre for Studies)
>>   Does anyone know of any details on this book?
>
>It's like the catalogue, but I believe it covers all of Holbein, not 
>just his years in England. It's at least two inches thick. I thought 
>about getting it, but it was expensive and I thought it might put me 
>over my luggage weight limit (no kidding!).

Glad you got to see the exhibit. Did you take as long as us, or were 
you able to drag yourself away? I just love those drawings - so much 
detail, and so much more "real" than the oil paintings.

Suzi

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------------------------------

Message: 9
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 21:50:52 -0800 (PST)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kammerdug/linnen
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <970960.68830.qm@web32214.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Hi Bjarne,
   
  I have been chatting with others on a different list on fine linen recently, so your news is rather sad to hear. We are searching for that elusive fine linen.
   
  However, there is at least one site I know of a draper who sells fine 2.8 oz (~ 79.38 grams) linen. 
  http://wmboothdraper.com/Linen/linens_index.htm
  100% white handkerchief linen, 2.8 oz., 35” wide, $14.50/yd.
WLG 112 Please specify white (below) or off-white
   
  He claims it "is some of the finest commercially produced today. At 55 threads to the inch it is also tightly woven." (~ 22 threads per cm, if my math is right.) He also calls it cambric. I don't know how fine your kammerdug was, but does this come close? He does send swatches upon request, as he just sent me 4 of different types of fine linen.
   
  The linen to my hand is a bit crisp, and not as soft as other handkerchief weights I have samples of, but it feels smooth. However, I am no expert on linens, so I don't know how fine they can get. I am still learning.
   
  It may be worth a look for you.
   
  Kimiko
  

Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
  Hi,
I just wondered if some of you have had the same experienses.
I contakted the danish handicraft guild to enquire to their kammerdug (very 
fine handkerchief linnen) and was quite surprised to hear from them that 
this no longer is made.
I had baught from them about 10 years ago when i made a christening gown 
with bobbin lace. And i wanted more for a gentlemans shirt.
The only substitute they have is a linnen with 14 threads pr. centimeter, 
but thats not as fine as the old kammerdug.
Blast!

Bjarne


 
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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 23:27:34 -0700
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kammerdug/linnen
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <003a01c712b6$4b466180$c1bfa6d8@pavilion>
Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="iso-8859-1"

I have the remnants (carefully hoarded) of two bolts of a cotton/linen blend
that has a thread count of roughly 60/inch.  Better, it's evenweave, same
count in both directions.  It is, too date (after almost 20 years in the
SCA) the finest linen or linen approximation I have personally seen for
sale.  *sigh*
--Sue
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kimiko Small" <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 10:50 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kammerdug/linnen


> Hi Bjarne,
>
>   I have been chatting with others on a different list on fine linen
recently, so your news is rather sad to hear. We are searching for that
elusive fine linen.
>
>   However, there is at least one site I know of a draper who sells fine
2.8 oz (~ 79.38 grams) linen.
>   http://wmboothdraper.com/Linen/linens_index.htm
>   100% white handkerchief linen, 2.8 oz., 35" wide, $14.50/yd.
> WLG 112 Please specify white (below) or off-white
>
>   He claims it "is some of the finest commercially produced today. At 55
threads to the inch it is also tightly woven." (~ 22 threads per cm, if my
math is right.) He also calls it cambric. I don't know how fine your
kammerdug was, but does this come close? He does send swatches upon request,
as he just sent me 4 of different types of fine linen.
>
>   The linen to my hand is a bit crisp, and not as soft as other
handkerchief weights I have samples of, but it feels smooth. However, I am
no expert on linens, so I don't know how fine they can get. I am still
learning.
>
>   It may be worth a look for you.
>
>   Kimiko
>
>
> Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
>   Hi,
> I just wondered if some of you have had the same experienses.
> I contakted the danish handicraft guild to enquire to their kammerdug
(very
> fine handkerchief linnen) and was quite surprised to hear from them that
> this no longer is made.
> I had baught from them about 10 years ago when i made a christening gown
> with bobbin lace. And i wanted more for a gentlemans shirt.
> The only substitute they have is a linnen with 14 threads pr. centimeter,
> but thats not as fine as the old kammerdug.
> Blast!
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Check out the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta - Fire up a more powerful email and
get things done faster.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



------------------------------

Message: 11
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 07:38:34 +0000
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Holbein exhibit/London shows
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20061128073348.033fadd8@suziclarke.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 03:26 28/11/2006, you wrote:
>WAAAAAH!!!!!  I didn't get to go:(
>
>Is the book on the collection really good?

It's terrific - do you want me to get you one? I got you postcards! 
The book was a bit heavy to carry with me through the Velasquez 
exhibition we did on the same day, especially as I had one for me! 
You will know a lot of the pictures, but there are some that are not 
readily available on the Internet.

If anyone is coming to London in the next few months there are 
several new exhibitions due - one I am particularly looking forward 
to is "Canaletto in England" (I think) at the Dulwich Picture 
Gallery. I can check the others if anyone is interested.

Suzi 



------------------------------

Message: 12
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 03:57:32 -0800 (PST)
From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kammerdug/linnen
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <20061128115732.23507.qmail@web39612.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Bjarne.
   
  Why don't you talk to the nice woman who used to run Broderi Antik in Copenhagen.
  She had the most amazing "kammerdug" of which I had a meter. Still do. Afraid ot even look at it. She might be able to help you.
  Her email is elmbak@broderiantik.com
   
   
  Tania

Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com> wrote:
  Hi Bjarne,

I have been chatting with others on a different list on fine linen recently, so your news is rather sad to hear. We are searching for that elusive fine linen.

However, there is at least one site I know of a draper who sells fine 2.8 oz (~ 79.38 grams) linen. 
http://wmboothdraper.com/Linen/linens_index.htm
100% white handkerchief linen, 2.8 oz., 35” wide, $14.50/yd.
WLG 112 Please specify white (below) or off-white

He claims it "is some of the finest commercially produced today. At 55 threads to the inch it is also tightly woven." (~ 22 threads per cm, if my math is right.) He also calls it cambric. I don't know how fine your kammerdug was, but does this come close? He does send swatches upon request, as he just sent me 4 of different types of fine linen.

The linen to my hand is a bit crisp, and not as soft as other handkerchief weights I have samples of, but it feels smooth. However, I am no expert on linens, so I don't know how fine they can get. I am still learning.

It may be worth a look for you.

Kimiko


Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
Hi,
I just wondered if some of you have had the same experienses.
I contakted the danish handicraft guild to enquire to their kammerdug (very 
fine handkerchief linnen) and was quite surprised to hear from them that 
this no longer is made.
I had baught from them about 10 years ago when i made a christening gown 
with bobbin lace. And i wanted more for a gentlemans shirt.
The only substitute they have is a linnen with 14 threads pr. centimeter, 
but thats not as fine as the old kammerdug.
Blast!

Bjarne



---------------------------------
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] kammerdug/linnen
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Status: RO

I have some very fine linen that I got years ago at an estate sale. I have 
to wonder if it's the same stuff that's being discussed.

It's so sheer that I can read through it when it's laid on a page. It has 
*no* slubs and has a crisp body. I did burn and bleach tests on it and it's 
100% linen. The 4 yard piece has a single stamp. It's a circular with words 
that are Scandinavian (I think).

The only thing that I could wish is that it was white instead of cream. But 
it was an incredible price -  only $4 for the piece. It's safely tucked away 
(read: I was so clever at tucking it away, I cannot lay my hands on it right 
now!) waiting for me to decide what to do with it.

kate


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kathy Page" <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 10:54 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kammerdug/linnen


Hi Kimiko and Bjarne,

I am very familiar with this linen, I am betting my boots this is the same 
supplier I use.

2.8 oz is about as fine as you are going to get it. I have bolts of both the 
Czech linen (which is what this Draper is selling) and the Belgian, which is 
much wider but also *much* finer quality. This largely competes with the 
Italian, but better priced. (Belgian is running at about $36.00 CAD cost, 
Italian is about $100.00 per yard at COST- eek!)

Kammerdug, I understand translates to lawm or lawn, which I believe is a 
shade heavier than cambric. The yardage that Kimiko showed is lighter yet 
than Kammerdug. Doing a little looking around, lawm tends to be placed into 
a similar category as organdy. You will find Batiste and voile in this 
family of weaves as well.

Between the two (Czech and Belgian) Czech is good, but as you mentioned, 
crisper. By comparison, the flaws are a little more noticable as well. There 
is some slubbiness to it. The Belgian doesn't have a slub larger than a pin 
head in the entire yardage. The Belgian is also qualified as "museum 
quality" and restoration shops use it for their work. (I found this out 
because my first order from the supplier was erroneously redirected to one 
of them!)

Something else I have found out in my pursuit of the perfect linen: the 
price. YIKES! It's shot up! I was told the reason for this was because the 
flax seed and oil industry is more lucrative than the linen textile, and 
because they cannot harvest both the stalk and the seed and reap the income 
from both, many farmers have opted to follow their pocket books and not let 
the stalks mature into useable plants for the textile industry. This of 
course creates a supply and demand problem, quickly filtering down to the 
end user.

I can get this linen for you, I have a wholesale account. I just need to 
gather orders because I just can't keep this stuff in stock and they require 
a minimum purchase. But, if you want to keep some in stock for yourself, 
this is definitely the way to go. I may in time start stocking it, but I 
have to get some income rolling in another easier to sell department - I 
have a wholesale account for Eterna Silks as well. I will be selling their 
stranded silk flosses, other lines as the demand sees fit.

Kathy

<snip>
We are searching for that
elusive fine linen.

  However, there is at least one site I know of a draper who sells fine 2.8 
oz (~ 79.38 grams) linen.
  http://wmboothdraper.com/Linen/linens_index.htm
  100% white handkerchief linen, 2.8 oz., 35” wide, $14.50/yd.
<snip>

I contakted the danish handicraft guild to enquire to their kammerdug (very
fine handkerchief linnen) and was quite surprised to hear from them that
this no longer is made.
I had baught from them about 10 years ago when i made a christening gown
with bobbin lace. And i wanted more for a gentlemans shirt.
<snip>

Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose 
Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert
(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules.

It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. 
http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131

----- Original Message ----
From: "h-costume-request@indra.com" <h-costume-request@indra.com>
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 6:59:10 AM
Subject: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 744

Send h-costume mailing list submissions to
    h-costume@mail.indra.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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than "Re: Contents of h-costume digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. Re: kyoto stays again (AlbertCat@aol.com)
   2. WildThang2005 has invited you to FREE 3D avatar chat on    IMVU
      (WildThang2005)
   3. Re: Holbein exhibit (Dawn)
   4. Re: a question about museums (Bjarne og Leif Drews)
   5. kammerdug/linnen (Bjarne og Leif Drews)
   6. RE: a question about museums (Wanda Pease)
   7. Re: Holbein exhibit (Suzi Clarke)
   8. RE: Holbein exhibit (Anne Moeller)
   9. Re: kammerdug/linnen (Kimiko Small)
  10. Re: kammerdug/linnen (Sue Clemenger)
  11. RE: Holbein exhibit/London shows (Suzi Clarke)
  12. Re: kammerdug/linnen (Tania Gruning)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 14:56:55 EST
From: AlbertCat@aol.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kyoto stays again
To: h-costume@indra.com
Message-ID: <bf2.ace0506.329c9d07@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"


In a message dated 11/25/2006 8:43:40 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com writes:

First  off, yup, I agree with you, they are a bit too big around the bust. 
I

think you could take them in along the side front curve and that would  work
nicely.  It may also push her breasts together a bit, giving her  more
cleavage.

I have a question though...Is she wearing them with  a bra in that photo? 
If
she is, it will throw off your fitting  entirely.  She should have a chemise
to wear underneath, that's all,  then the stays can do their own work.  This
may also be why she  believes they fit her.




*********************************************

Greetings....I hope everyone had a great holiday....those who had
holidays....hell, and those who didn't!

Beautiful stays, of course, Bjarne. I would take in the bust area in bits 
at
several places, At the side AND the CF....and even somewhere in-between if
possible, but that would require re-cutting the whole front after altering 
the
pattern. And the decolletage may need to be lowered an inch or so.
And a fitting sans bra may release and free her bust to fill the front  of
the corset more.


------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 12:22:49 -0800
From: "WildThang2005" <wildthangstreasures@yahoo.com>
Subject: [h-cost] WildThang2005 has invited you to FREE 3D avatar chat
    on    IMVU
To: "h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <200611272022.kARKMn9K016144@AF001122.prod.imvu.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

  WildThang2005 (wildthangstreasures@yahoo.com) has sent you this invitation 
to chat in 3D.    Hi,  I just downloaded IMVU 3D messenger, the cool new 
instant messaging software with 3D animated avatars. Let's try it out 
together. Basic membership is free, and it takes about a minute to create 
your own custom 3D avatar.        IMVU is a FREE 3D instant messaging 
software download.  It's an easy way to chat with friends and meet new 
people.  Build a customized, animated 3D identity from over 200,000 user 
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 !
                                                                             
                                                                             
              IMVU is the worlds greatest 3D instant messenger! Get IMVU 
now! 
You are receiving this email because someone who knows you sent you an 
invitation to join them on imvu.com.&nbsp; If you want to prevent any future 
e-mail from IMVU, you can remove yourself from by pointing your web browser 
to 
http://www.imvu.com/catalog/web_nonregisteredoptout.php?code=33c1d5&email=h-costume@indra.com.&nbsp; 
Your opt-out confirmation code is 33c1d5

------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 17:47:54 -0600
From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Holbein exhibit
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <456B792A.1010706@reddawn.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

Kimiko Small wrote:
> Thank you Janet for sharing this.
>
>   I see that there is a book on the collection, Holbein in England. Has 
> anyone here seen the book, and is it worth getting for those rarely seen 
> images, like the ones that for copyright restriction is not on the 
> website?
>

I saw the exhibit this weekend, and got this book. I agree with Suzi, it
has excellent images, many full-page and very clearly reproduced. It has
all the images (I think) and yes, there are a bunch of sketches and some
portraits not usually reproduced in other books. There's also a good
selection of non-portrait works, designs for jewelry and covered cups
and such.

>   And looking at Amazon.com, I see the author, Susan Foister, has another 
> book that is thicker
>   Holbein and England (Paul Mellon Centre for Studies)
>   Does anyone know of any details on this book?

It's like the catalogue, but I believe it covers all of Holbein, not
just his years in England. It's at least two inches thick. I thought
about getting it, but it was expensive and I thought it might put me
over my luggage weight limit (no kidding!).



Dawn



------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 20:58:07 +0100
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] a question about museums
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <000401c7125e$5cd99e60$8e14a150@CPQ21932199711>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
    reply-type=original

Hi,
Yes you are right, i went to the museums website and they do have a
photographer there, but i would have to pay him, and that would be
expensive. Perhaps i could travel to Gotland for the same money.  I got the
feeling that the museum would not mind me photographing the stays.
These stays are some of the most beautifull i have seen, very plain, but
beautifull craftmanship. Grey linnen with blue tiny tapes at the seams. And
besides this is very unusual dated from 1760-80 because it has a boatshaped
neckline, with tied shoulderstraps off the shoulders.
I have ben thinking i would send Ian the staymaker a copy of the photo from
the book, because it is so beautifull.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 6:04 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] a question about museums


>A lot of times it's pricey because they don't have a professional
> photographer on staff and to have one come in and do a set-up just for
> one object costs them a lot.
>
> Kate
> 609-570-3584
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
> On Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
> Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 9:19 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] a question about museums
>
> Museums are kinda weird this way.  The Phoenix Art Museum for instance
> has
> no photograph what so ever of the portrait of the dress I am
> recreating......you'd think they'd photograph everything just for
> insurance
> purposes.
>
> I'd contact the museum.  Often, they will photograph the article if you
> are
> willing to pay for it.  It can be pricey.  The Norton Simon Museum
> offered
> to do this for me on a particular portrait.  They wanted $100 6 years
> ago.
>
>
> Sg
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>




------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 23:59:21 +0100
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
Subject: [h-cost] kammerdug/linnen
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <000e01c71277$ae5a2520$2de73f50@CPQ21932199711>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
    reply-type=original

Hi,
I just wondered if some of you have had the same experienses.
I contakted the danish handicraft guild to enquire to their kammerdug (very
fine handkerchief linnen) and was quite surprised to hear from them that
this no longer is made.
I had baught from them about 10 years ago when i made a christening gown
with bobbin lace. And i wanted more for a gentlemans shirt.
The only substitute they have is a linnen with 14 threads pr. centimeter,
but thats not as fine as the old kammerdug.
Blast!

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/




------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 16:17:47 -0800
From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] a question about museums
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <HGEEKKPFPKOJBDPGKLOCGEHPNPAA.wandap@hevanet.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="iso-8859-1"

Goodness Gracious but I seem to be putting out a lot of grumpy posts lately.

Museums and many "collections" make the money to allow them to be open at
all from public donations, a tax stipend, or ticket sales.  All of these
come out of the public pocket.  Those who will not allow a member of that
public to take their own pictures without paying the high prices of a
"professional" strike me as a bit "dog in the manger" types (sorry Bjarne,
it's one of the Aesop tales - I'm sure it's familiar to you with different
wording).  When I took pictures in the Museum of Munich of the various
garments on display the only thing that they required is that I not utilize
a tripod or a flash.  The guard in each room asked me to demonstrate that I
had the flash "off" before I could take pictures in his room.  That way the
pieces were not being exposed to any more light than they ever were.  I had
two cameras with me.  One was a regular Pentax camera with 1600 ASA film,
but no flash attachment (he seemed to be a bit puzzled by that, I'm not sure
he'd seen a film camera before) and a 5Megabyte Sony (?).  I knew how to
turn the flash on and off, something that too many idiot tourists didn't, or
couldn't see why THEY should be restricted by such rules.  Something I doubt
that any on this list would give them a hassle about.

My non flash pictures with the film camera came out better than I could
actually see the items, which were kept in fairly dim rooms.

I know that someone is going to point out that the money the museum earns
from photographic reprints is a large part of their budget.  This is all
very well, but the pictures and other works of art and history are not
THEIRS.  They are caring for them for the people.  Well, I'm one of the
people too!  If it weren't for me and people like me the items would be used
to cover cabbages to keep them from frost.

Civil Servant (I'm One) does not equate to Civil Master.  The things in
museums are financed with your money!  Therefore it is not unreasonable for
you to be allowed to photograph an item very carefully so that possibly
hundreds of people could share your information and not just the few that
manage to come through "their museum" every year!

On the other hand I have been able to make arrangements with museums and
libraries in Germany and England and have them fall all over themselves to
help me get exactly what I wanted and allowed me to distribute as many
copies as I wanted (free, of course) as long as I mentioned them, and gave
their address.

Wanda
>
> Hi,
> Yes you are right, i went to the museums website and they do have a
> photographer there, but i would have to pay him, and that would be
> expensive. Perhaps i could travel to Gotland for the same money.
> I got the
> feeling that the museum would not mind me photographing the stays.
> These stays are some of the most beautifull i have seen, very plain, but
> beautifull craftmanship. Grey linnen with blue tiny tapes at the
> seams. And
> besides this is very unusual dated from 1760-80 because it has a
> boatshaped
> neckline, with tied shoulderstraps off the shoulders.
> I have ben thinking i would send Ian the staymaker a copy of the
> photo from
> the book, because it is so beautifull.
>
> Bjarne
>



------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 00:18:00 +0000
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Holbein exhibit
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20061128001625.033e09a0@suziclarke.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 23:47 27/11/2006, you wrote:
>Kimiko Small wrote:
>>Thank you Janet for sharing this.
>>   I see that there is a book on the collection, Holbein in
>> England. Has anyone here seen the book, and is it worth getting
>> for those rarely seen images, like the ones that for copyright
>> restriction is not on the website?
>>
>
>I saw the exhibit this weekend, and got this book. I agree with
>Suzi, it has excellent images, many full-page and very clearly
>reproduced. It has all the images (I think) and yes, there are a
>bunch of sketches and some portraits not usually reproduced in other
>books. There's also a good selection of non-portrait works, designs
>for jewelry and covered cups and such.
>
>>   And looking at Amazon.com, I see the author, Susan Foister, has
>> another book that is thicker
>>   Holbein and England (Paul Mellon Centre for Studies)
>>   Does anyone know of any details on this book?
>
>It's like the catalogue, but I believe it covers all of Holbein, not
>just his years in England. It's at least two inches thick. I thought
>about getting it, but it was expensive and I thought it might put me
>over my luggage weight limit (no kidding!).

Glad you got to see the exhibit. Did you take as long as us, or were
you able to drag yourself away? I just love those drawings - so much
detail, and so much more "real" than the oil paintings.

Suzi



------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 22:26:59 -0500
From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Holbein exhibit
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <009f01c7129d$10911ee0$0200a8c0@ANNESCOMPUTER>
Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="windows-1250"

WAAAAAH!!!!!  I didn't get to go:(

Is the book on the collection really good?

Anne

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 7:18 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Holbein exhibit

At 23:47 27/11/2006, you wrote:
>Kimiko Small wrote:
>>Thank you Janet for sharing this.
>>   I see that there is a book on the collection, Holbein in
>> England. Has anyone here seen the book, and is it worth getting
>> for those rarely seen images, like the ones that for copyright
>> restriction is not on the website?
>>
>
>I saw the exhibit this weekend, and got this book. I agree with
>Suzi, it has excellent images, many full-page and very clearly
>reproduced. It has all the images (I think) and yes, there are a
>bunch of sketches and some portraits not usually reproduced in other
>books. There's also a good selection of non-portrait works, designs
>for jewelry and covered cups and such.
>
>>   And looking at Amazon.com, I see the author, Susan Foister, has
>> another book that is thicker
>>   Holbein and England (Paul Mellon Centre for Studies)
>>   Does anyone know of any details on this book?
>
>It's like the catalogue, but I believe it covers all of Holbein, not
>just his years in England. It's at least two inches thick. I thought
>about getting it, but it was expensive and I thought it might put me
>over my luggage weight limit (no kidding!).

Glad you got to see the exhibit. Did you take as long as us, or were
you able to drag yourself away? I just love those drawings - so much
detail, and so much more "real" than the oil paintings.

Suzi

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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------------------------------

Message: 9
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 21:50:52 -0800 (PST)
From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kammerdug/linnen
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <970960.68830.qm@web32214.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Hi Bjarne,

  I have been chatting with others on a different list on fine linen 
recently, so your news is rather sad to hear. We are searching for that 
elusive fine linen.

  However, there is at least one site I know of a draper who sells fine 2.8 
oz (~ 79.38 grams) linen.
  http://wmboothdraper.com/Linen/linens_index.htm
  100% white handkerchief linen, 2.8 oz., 35” wide, $14.50/yd.
WLG 112 Please specify white (below) or off-white

  He claims it "is some of the finest commercially produced today. At 55 
threads to the inch it is also tightly woven." (~ 22 threads per cm, if my 
math is right.) He also calls it cambric. I don't know how fine your 
kammerdug was, but does this come close? He does send swatches upon request, 
as he just sent me 4 of different types of fine linen.

  The linen to my hand is a bit crisp, and not as soft as other handkerchief 
weights I have samples of, but it feels smooth. However, I am no expert on 
linens, so I don't know how fine they can get. I am still learning.

  It may be worth a look for you.

  Kimiko


Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
  Hi,
I just wondered if some of you have had the same experienses.
I contakted the danish handicraft guild to enquire to their kammerdug (very
fine handkerchief linnen) and was quite surprised to hear from them that
this no longer is made.
I had baught from them about 10 years ago when i made a christening gown
with bobbin lace. And i wanted more for a gentlemans shirt.
The only substitute they have is a linnen with 14 threads pr. centimeter,
but thats not as fine as the old kammerdug.
Blast!

Bjarne



---------------------------------
Check out the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta - Fire up a more powerful email and 
get things done faster.

------------------------------

Message: 10
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 23:27:34 -0700
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kammerdug/linnen
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <003a01c712b6$4b466180$c1bfa6d8@pavilion>
Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="iso-8859-1"

I have the remnants (carefully hoarded) of two bolts of a cotton/linen blend
that has a thread count of roughly 60/inch.  Better, it's evenweave, same
count in both directions.  It is, too date (after almost 20 years in the
SCA) the finest linen or linen approximation I have personally seen for
sale.  *sigh*
--Sue
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kimiko Small" <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 10:50 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kammerdug/linnen


> Hi Bjarne,
>
>   I have been chatting with others on a different list on fine linen
recently, so your news is rather sad to hear. We are searching for that
elusive fine linen.
>
>   However, there is at least one site I know of a draper who sells fine
2.8 oz (~ 79.38 grams) linen.
>   http://wmboothdraper.com/Linen/linens_index.htm
>   100% white handkerchief linen, 2.8 oz., 35" wide, $14.50/yd.
> WLG 112 Please specify white (below) or off-white
>
>   He claims it "is some of the finest commercially produced today. At 55
threads to the inch it is also tightly woven." (~ 22 threads per cm, if my
math is right.) He also calls it cambric. I don't know how fine your
kammerdug was, but does this come close? He does send swatches upon request,
as he just sent me 4 of different types of fine linen.
>
>   The linen to my hand is a bit crisp, and not as soft as other
handkerchief weights I have samples of, but it feels smooth. However, I am
no expert on linens, so I don't know how fine they can get. I am still
learning.
>
>   It may be worth a look for you.
>
>   Kimiko
>
>
> Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
>   Hi,
> I just wondered if some of you have had the same experienses.
> I contakted the danish handicraft guild to enquire to their kammerdug
(very
> fine handkerchief linnen) and was quite surprised to hear from them that
> this no longer is made.
> I had baught from them about 10 years ago when i made a christening gown
> with bobbin lace. And i wanted more for a gentlemans shirt.
> The only substitute they have is a linnen with 14 threads pr. centimeter,
> but thats not as fine as the old kammerdug.
> Blast!
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Check out the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta - Fire up a more powerful email and
get things done faster.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



------------------------------

Message: 11
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 07:38:34 +0000
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Holbein exhibit/London shows
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20061128073348.033fadd8@suziclarke.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 03:26 28/11/2006, you wrote:
>WAAAAAH!!!!!  I didn't get to go:(
>
>Is the book on the collection really good?

It's terrific - do you want me to get you one? I got you postcards!
The book was a bit heavy to carry with me through the Velasquez
exhibition we did on the same day, especially as I had one for me!
You will know a lot of the pictures, but there are some that are not
readily available on the Internet.

If anyone is coming to London in the next few months there are
several new exhibitions due - one I am particularly looking forward
to is "Canaletto in England" (I think) at the Dulwich Picture
Gallery. I can check the others if anyone is interested.

Suzi



------------------------------

Message: 12
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 03:57:32 -0800 (PST)
From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kammerdug/linnen
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <20061128115732.23507.qmail@web39612.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Bjarne.

  Why don't you talk to the nice woman who used to run Broderi Antik in 
Copenhagen.
  She had the most amazing "kammerdug" of which I had a meter. Still do. 
Afraid ot even look at it. She might be able to help you.
  Her email is elmbak@broderiantik.com


  Tania

Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com> wrote:
  Hi Bjarne,

I have been chatting with others on a different list on fine linen recently, 
so your news is rather sad to hear. We are searching for that elusive fine 
linen.

However, there is at least one site I know of a draper who sells fine 2.8 oz 
(~ 79.38 grams) linen.
http://wmboothdraper.com/Linen/linens_index.htm
100% white handkerchief linen, 2.8 oz., 35” wide, $14.50/yd.
WLG 112 Please specify white (below) or off-white

He claims it "is some of the finest commercially produced today. At 55 
threads to the inch it is also tightly woven." (~ 22 threads per cm, if my 
math is right.) He also calls it cambric. I don't know how fine your 
kammerdug was, but does this come close? He does send swatches upon request, 
as he just sent me 4 of different types of fine linen.

The linen to my hand is a bit crisp, and not as soft as other handkerchief 
weights I have samples of, but it feels smooth. However, I am no expert on 
linens, so I don't know how fine they can get. I am still learning.

It may be worth a look for you.

Kimiko


Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
Hi,
I just wondered if some of you have had the same experienses.
I contakted the danish handicraft guild to enquire to their kammerdug (very
fine handkerchief linnen) and was quite surprised to hear from them that
this no longer is made.
I had baught from them about 10 years ago when i made a christening gown
with bobbin lace. And i wanted more for a gentlemans shirt.
The only substitute they have is a linnen with 14 threads pr. centimeter,
but thats not as fine as the old kammerdug.
Blast!

Bjarne



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Questionable color
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Status: RO

I don't think so...with an organdy collar.  Have a lot of mags from this 
period.  I will stry to do some mor checking.
Kathleen----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 1:19 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Questionable color


> Penny Ladnier wrote:
>
>> I am working on a 1916 designers' fashion catalog.  I am not sure if 
>> something is a color or not.  Please read the following ladies' dress 
>> description and let me know if you think porpoise is a color or what. 
>> The color "dove" is not capitalized when used as a color name.  But the 
>> word "Porpoise" is.
>>
>> DESCRIPTION:
>> "Dove" colored gabardine, with trimmings of navy blue.  "Porpoise" skin 
>> silk.  Vest and collar of white organdy.  Smoke pearl buttons and buckle. 
>> Coat of navy blue "Porpoise" skin silk.  Collar and cuffs of "dove" 
>> gabardine.
>
> My first thought was that it sounded like a type or texture of silk... but 
> my gut tells me it's some kind of waterproofed outer wear fabric that's 
> being used for this coat. Like Goretex.
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] kammerdug/linnen
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Status: RO

It really seems you have the same quality then.
Mine is white though.
Its also that skirt in revolution of fashion with the embroidered border 
that is haunting me...........
Want to make that!

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ailith Mackintosh" <ailith@neo.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 8:26 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] kammerdug/linnen


>I have some very fine linen that I got years ago at an estate sale. I have 
>to wonder if it's the same stuff that's being discussed.
>
> It's so sheer that I can read through it when it's laid on a page. It has 
> *no* slubs and has a crisp body. I did burn and bleach tests on it and 
> it's 100% linen. The 4 yard piece has a single stamp. It's a circular with 
> words that are Scandinavian (I think).
>
> The only thing that I could wish is that it was white instead of cream. 
> But it was an incredible price -  only $4 for the piece. It's safely 
> tucked away (read: I was so clever at tucking it away, I cannot lay my 
> hands on it right now!) waiting for me to decide what to do with it.
>
> kate
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Kathy Page" <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 10:54 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] kammerdug/linnen
>
>
> Hi Kimiko and Bjarne,
>
> I am very familiar with this linen, I am betting my boots this is the same 
> supplier I use.
>
> 2.8 oz is about as fine as you are going to get it. I have bolts of both 
> the Czech linen (which is what this Draper is selling) and the Belgian, 
> which is much wider but also *much* finer quality. This largely competes 
> with the Italian, but better priced. (Belgian is running at about $36.00 
> CAD cost, Italian is about $100.00 per yard at COST- eek!)
>
> Kammerdug, I understand translates to lawm or lawn, which I believe is a 
> shade heavier than cambric. The yardage that Kimiko showed is lighter yet 
> than Kammerdug. Doing a little looking around, lawm tends to be placed 
> into a similar category as organdy. You will find Batiste and voile in 
> this family of weaves as well.
>
> Between the two (Czech and Belgian) Czech is good, but as you mentioned, 
> crisper. By comparison, the flaws are a little more noticable as well. 
> There is some slubbiness to it. The Belgian doesn't have a slub larger 
> than a pin head in the entire yardage. The Belgian is also qualified as 
> "museum quality" and restoration shops use it for their work. (I found 
> this out because my first order from the supplier was erroneously 
> redirected to one of them!)
>
> Something else I have found out in my pursuit of the perfect linen: the 
> price. YIKES! It's shot up! I was told the reason for this was because the 
> flax seed and oil industry is more lucrative than the linen textile, and 
> because they cannot harvest both the stalk and the seed and reap the 
> income from both, many farmers have opted to follow their pocket books and 
> not let the stalks mature into useable plants for the textile industry. 
> This of course creates a supply and demand problem, quickly filtering down 
> to the end user.
>
> I can get this linen for you, I have a wholesale account. I just need to 
> gather orders because I just can't keep this stuff in stock and they 
> require a minimum purchase. But, if you want to keep some in stock for 
> yourself, this is definitely the way to go. I may in time start stocking 
> it, but I have to get some income rolling in another easier to sell 
> department - I have a wholesale account for Eterna Silks as well. I will 
> be selling their stranded silk flosses, other lines as the demand sees 
> fit.
>
> Kathy
>
> <snip>
> We are searching for that
> elusive fine linen.
>
>  However, there is at least one site I know of a draper who sells fine 2.8 
> oz (~ 79.38 grams) linen.
>  http://wmboothdraper.com/Linen/linens_index.htm
>  100% white handkerchief linen, 2.8 oz., 35” wide, $14.50/yd.
> <snip>
>
> I contakted the danish handicraft guild to enquire to their kammerdug 
> (very
> fine handkerchief linnen) and was quite surprised to hear from them that
> this no longer is made.
> I had baught from them about 10 years ago when i made a christening gown
> with bobbin lace. And i wanted more for a gentlemans shirt.
> <snip>
>
> Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a 
> rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert
> (Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules.
>
> It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
> -George Eliot
> Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. 
> http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: "h-costume-request@indra.com" <h-costume-request@indra.com>
> To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 6:59:10 AM
> Subject: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 744
>
> Send h-costume mailing list submissions to
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>
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>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of h-costume digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>   1. Re: kyoto stays again (AlbertCat@aol.com)
>   2. WildThang2005 has invited you to FREE 3D avatar chat on    IMVU
>      (WildThang2005)
>   3. Re: Holbein exhibit (Dawn)
>   4. Re: a question about museums (Bjarne og Leif Drews)
>   5. kammerdug/linnen (Bjarne og Leif Drews)
>   6. RE: a question about museums (Wanda Pease)
>   7. Re: Holbein exhibit (Suzi Clarke)
>   8. RE: Holbein exhibit (Anne Moeller)
>   9. Re: kammerdug/linnen (Kimiko Small)
>  10. Re: kammerdug/linnen (Sue Clemenger)
>  11. RE: Holbein exhibit/London shows (Suzi Clarke)
>  12. Re: kammerdug/linnen (Tania Gruning)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 14:56:55 EST
> From: AlbertCat@aol.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] kyoto stays again
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Message-ID: <bf2.ace0506.329c9d07@aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
>
> In a message dated 11/25/2006 8:43:40 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com writes:
>
> First  off, yup, I agree with you, they are a bit too big around the bust. 
> I
>
> think you could take them in along the side front curve and that would 
> work
> nicely.  It may also push her breasts together a bit, giving her  more
> cleavage.
>
> I have a question though...Is she wearing them with  a bra in that photo? 
> If
> she is, it will throw off your fitting  entirely.  She should have a 
> chemise
> to wear underneath, that's all,  then the stays can do their own work. 
> This
> may also be why she  believes they fit her.
>
>
>
>
> *********************************************
>
> Greetings....I hope everyone had a great holiday....those who had
> holidays....hell, and those who didn't!
>
> Beautiful stays, of course, Bjarne. I would take in the bust area in bits 
> at
> several places, At the side AND the CF....and even somewhere in-between if
> possible, but that would require re-cutting the whole front after altering 
> the
> pattern. And the decolletage may need to be lowered an inch or so.
> And a fitting sans bra may release and free her bust to fill the front  of
> the corset more.
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 12:22:49 -0800
> From: "WildThang2005" <wildthangstreasures@yahoo.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] WildThang2005 has invited you to FREE 3D avatar chat
>    on    IMVU
> To: "h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <200611272022.kARKMn9K016144@AF001122.prod.imvu.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
>  WildThang2005 (wildthangstreasures@yahoo.com) has sent you this 
> invitation to chat in 3D.    Hi,  I just downloaded IMVU 3D messenger, the 
> cool new instant messaging software with 3D animated avatars. Let's try it 
> out together. Basic membership is free, and it takes about a minute to 
> create your own custom 3D avatar.        IMVU is a FREE 3D instant 
> messaging software download.  It's an easy way to chat with friends and 
> meet new people.  Build a customized, animated 3D identity from over 
> 200,000 user created options.  Decorate your Avatar home page with 
> stickers and powerful editing tools.  Have fun exploring cool 3D locations 
> and animating your avatar!      It's free, and doesn't take long to set 
> up. Sign up now!    If you have questions about IMVU or would like to 
> contact us, please visit our website http://www.imvu.com 
> Your buddy WildThang2005 (wildthangstreasures@yahoo.com) has invited you 
> to chat in 3D!
> !
> 
> IMVU is the worlds greatest 3D instant messenger! Get IMVU now! You are 
> receiving this email because someone who knows you sent you an invitation 
> to join them on imvu.com.&nbsp; If you want to prevent any future e-mail 
> from IMVU, you can remove yourself from by pointing your web browser to 
> http://www.imvu.com/catalog/web_nonregisteredoptout.php?code=33c1d5&email=h-costume@indra.com.&nbsp; 
> Your opt-out confirmation code is 33c1d5
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 17:47:54 -0600
> From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Holbein exhibit
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <456B792A.1010706@reddawn.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
>
> Kimiko Small wrote:
>> Thank you Janet for sharing this.
>>
>>   I see that there is a book on the collection, Holbein in England. Has 
>> anyone here seen the book, and is it worth getting for those rarely seen 
>> images, like the ones that for copyright restriction is not on the 
>> website?
>>
>
> I saw the exhibit this weekend, and got this book. I agree with Suzi, it
> has excellent images, many full-page and very clearly reproduced. It has
> all the images (I think) and yes, there are a bunch of sketches and some
> portraits not usually reproduced in other books. There's also a good
> selection of non-portrait works, designs for jewelry and covered cups
> and such.
>
>>   And looking at Amazon.com, I see the author, Susan Foister, has another 
>> book that is thicker
>>   Holbein and England (Paul Mellon Centre for Studies)
>>   Does anyone know of any details on this book?
>
> It's like the catalogue, but I believe it covers all of Holbein, not
> just his years in England. It's at least two inches thick. I thought
> about getting it, but it was expensive and I thought it might put me
> over my luggage weight limit (no kidding!).
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 20:58:07 +0100
> From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] a question about museums
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <000401c7125e$5cd99e60$8e14a150@CPQ21932199711>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>    reply-type=original
>
> Hi,
> Yes you are right, i went to the museums website and they do have a
> photographer there, but i would have to pay him, and that would be
> expensive. Perhaps i could travel to Gotland for the same money.  I got 
> the
> feeling that the museum would not mind me photographing the stays.
> These stays are some of the most beautifull i have seen, very plain, but
> beautifull craftmanship. Grey linnen with blue tiny tapes at the seams. 
> And
> besides this is very unusual dated from 1760-80 because it has a 
> boatshaped
> neckline, with tied shoulderstraps off the shoulders.
> I have ben thinking i would send Ian the staymaker a copy of the photo 
> from
> the book, because it is so beautifull.
>
> Bjarne
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
> To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 6:04 PM
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] a question about museums
>
>
>>A lot of times it's pricey because they don't have a professional
>> photographer on staff and to have one come in and do a set-up just for
>> one object costs them a lot.
>>
>> Kate
>> 609-570-3584
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
>> On Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
>> Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 9:19 AM
>> To: h-costume@indra.com
>> Subject: RE: [h-cost] a question about museums
>>
>> Museums are kinda weird this way.  The Phoenix Art Museum for instance
>> has
>> no photograph what so ever of the portrait of the dress I am
>> recreating......you'd think they'd photograph everything just for
>> insurance
>> purposes.
>>
>> I'd contact the museum.  Often, they will photograph the article if you
>> are
>> willing to pay for it.  It can be pricey.  The Norton Simon Museum
>> offered
>> to do this for me on a particular portrait.  They wanted $100 6 years
>> ago.
>>
>>
>> Sg
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 23:59:21 +0100
> From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> Subject: [h-cost] kammerdug/linnen
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <000e01c71277$ae5a2520$2de73f50@CPQ21932199711>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>    reply-type=original
>
> Hi,
> I just wondered if some of you have had the same experienses.
> I contakted the danish handicraft guild to enquire to their kammerdug 
> (very
> fine handkerchief linnen) and was quite surprised to hear from them that
> this no longer is made.
> I had baught from them about 10 years ago when i made a christening gown
> with bobbin lace. And i wanted more for a gentlemans shirt.
> The only substitute they have is a linnen with 14 threads pr. centimeter,
> but thats not as fine as the old kammerdug.
> Blast!
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 16:17:47 -0800
> From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] a question about museums
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <HGEEKKPFPKOJBDPGKLOCGEHPNPAA.wandap@hevanet.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Goodness Gracious but I seem to be putting out a lot of grumpy posts 
> lately.
>
> Museums and many "collections" make the money to allow them to be open at
> all from public donations, a tax stipend, or ticket sales.  All of these
> come out of the public pocket.  Those who will not allow a member of that
> public to take their own pictures without paying the high prices of a
> "professional" strike me as a bit "dog in the manger" types (sorry Bjarne,
> it's one of the Aesop tales - I'm sure it's familiar to you with different
> wording).  When I took pictures in the Museum of Munich of the various
> garments on display the only thing that they required is that I not 
> utilize
> a tripod or a flash.  The guard in each room asked me to demonstrate that 
> I
> had the flash "off" before I could take pictures in his room.  That way 
> the
> pieces were not being exposed to any more light than they ever were.  I 
> had
> two cameras with me.  One was a regular Pentax camera with 1600 ASA film,
> but no flash attachment (he seemed to be a bit puzzled by that, I'm not 
> sure
> he'd seen a film camera before) and a 5Megabyte Sony (?).  I knew how to
> turn the flash on and off, something that too many idiot tourists didn't, 
> or
> couldn't see why THEY should be restricted by such rules.  Something I 
> doubt
> that any on this list would give them a hassle about.
>
> My non flash pictures with the film camera came out better than I could
> actually see the items, which were kept in fairly dim rooms.
>
> I know that someone is going to point out that the money the museum earns
> from photographic reprints is a large part of their budget.  This is all
> very well, but the pictures and other works of art and history are not
> THEIRS.  They are caring for them for the people.  Well, I'm one of the
> people too!  If it weren't for me and people like me the items would be 
> used
> to cover cabbages to keep them from frost.
>
> Civil Servant (I'm One) does not equate to Civil Master.  The things in
> museums are financed with your money!  Therefore it is not unreasonable 
> for
> you to be allowed to photograph an item very carefully so that possibly
> hundreds of people could share your information and not just the few that
> manage to come through "their museum" every year!
>
> On the other hand I have been able to make arrangements with museums and
> libraries in Germany and England and have them fall all over themselves to
> help me get exactly what I wanted and allowed me to distribute as many
> copies as I wanted (free, of course) as long as I mentioned them, and gave
> their address.
>
> Wanda
>>
>> Hi,
>> Yes you are right, i went to the museums website and they do have a
>> photographer there, but i would have to pay him, and that would be
>> expensive. Perhaps i could travel to Gotland for the same money.
>> I got the
>> feeling that the museum would not mind me photographing the stays.
>> These stays are some of the most beautifull i have seen, very plain, but
>> beautifull craftmanship. Grey linnen with blue tiny tapes at the
>> seams. And
>> besides this is very unusual dated from 1760-80 because it has a
>> boatshaped
>> neckline, with tied shoulderstraps off the shoulders.
>> I have ben thinking i would send Ian the staymaker a copy of the
>> photo from
>> the book, because it is so beautifull.
>>
>> Bjarne
>>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 00:18:00 +0000
> From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Holbein exhibit
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20061128001625.033e09a0@suziclarke.co.uk>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
> At 23:47 27/11/2006, you wrote:
>>Kimiko Small wrote:
>>>Thank you Janet for sharing this.
>>>   I see that there is a book on the collection, Holbein in
>>> England. Has anyone here seen the book, and is it worth getting
>>> for those rarely seen images, like the ones that for copyright
>>> restriction is not on the website?
>>>
>>
>>I saw the exhibit this weekend, and got this book. I agree with
>>Suzi, it has excellent images, many full-page and very clearly
>>reproduced. It has all the images (I think) and yes, there are a
>>bunch of sketches and some portraits not usually reproduced in other
>>books. There's also a good selection of non-portrait works, designs
>>for jewelry and covered cups and such.
>>
>>>   And looking at Amazon.com, I see the author, Susan Foister, has
>>> another book that is thicker
>>>   Holbein and England (Paul Mellon Centre for Studies)
>>>   Does anyone know of any details on this book?
>>
>>It's like the catalogue, but I believe it covers all of Holbein, not
>>just his years in England. It's at least two inches thick. I thought
>>about getting it, but it was expensive and I thought it might put me
>>over my luggage weight limit (no kidding!).
>
> Glad you got to see the exhibit. Did you take as long as us, or were
> you able to drag yourself away? I just love those drawings - so much
> detail, and so much more "real" than the oil paintings.
>
> Suzi
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 22:26:59 -0500
> From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Holbein exhibit
> To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <009f01c7129d$10911ee0$0200a8c0@ANNESCOMPUTER>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="windows-1250"
>
> WAAAAAH!!!!!  I didn't get to go:(
>
> Is the book on the collection really good?
>
> Anne
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
> Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 7:18 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Holbein exhibit
>
> At 23:47 27/11/2006, you wrote:
>>Kimiko Small wrote:
>>>Thank you Janet for sharing this.
>>>   I see that there is a book on the collection, Holbein in
>>> England. Has anyone here seen the book, and is it worth getting
>>> for those rarely seen images, like the ones that for copyright
>>> restriction is not on the website?
>>>
>>
>>I saw the exhibit this weekend, and got this book. I agree with
>>Suzi, it has excellent images, many full-page and very clearly
>>reproduced. It has all the images (I think) and yes, there are a
>>bunch of sketches and some portraits not usually reproduced in other
>>books. There's also a good selection of non-portrait works, designs
>>for jewelry and covered cups and such.
>>
>>>   And looking at Amazon.com, I see the author, Susan Foister, has
>>> another book that is thicker
>>>   Holbein and England (Paul Mellon Centre for Studies)
>>>   Does anyone know of any details on this book?
>>
>>It's like the catalogue, but I believe it covers all of Holbein, not
>>just his years in England. It's at least two inches thick. I thought
>>about getting it, but it was expensive and I thought it might put me
>>over my luggage weight limit (no kidding!).
>
> Glad you got to see the exhibit. Did you take as long as us, or were
> you able to drag yourself away? I just love those drawings - so much
> detail, and so much more "real" than the oil paintings.
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> -- 
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>
>
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>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 21:50:52 -0800 (PST)
> From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] kammerdug/linnen
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <970960.68830.qm@web32214.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
> Hi Bjarne,
>
>  I have been chatting with others on a different list on fine linen 
> recently, so your news is rather sad to hear. We are searching for that 
> elusive fine linen.
>
>  However, there is at least one site I know of a draper who sells fine 2.8 
> oz (~ 79.38 grams) linen.
>  http://wmboothdraper.com/Linen/linens_index.htm
>  100% white handkerchief linen, 2.8 oz., 35” wide, $14.50/yd.
> WLG 112 Please specify white (below) or off-white
>
>  He claims it "is some of the finest commercially produced today. At 55 
> threads to the inch it is also tightly woven." (~ 22 threads per cm, if my 
> math is right.) He also calls it cambric. I don't know how fine your 
> kammerdug was, but does this come close? He does send swatches upon 
> request, as he just sent me 4 of different types of fine linen.
>
>  The linen to my hand is a bit crisp, and not as soft as other 
> handkerchief weights I have samples of, but it feels smooth. However, I am 
> no expert on linens, so I don't know how fine they can get. I am still 
> learning.
>
>  It may be worth a look for you.
>
>  Kimiko
>
>
> Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
>  Hi,
> I just wondered if some of you have had the same experienses.
> I contakted the danish handicraft guild to enquire to their kammerdug 
> (very
> fine handkerchief linnen) and was quite surprised to hear from them that
> this no longer is made.
> I had baught from them about 10 years ago when i made a christening gown
> with bobbin lace. And i wanted more for a gentlemans shirt.
> The only substitute they have is a linnen with 14 threads pr. centimeter,
> but thats not as fine as the old kammerdug.
> Blast!
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Check out the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta - Fire up a more powerful email and 
> get things done faster.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 23:27:34 -0700
> From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] kammerdug/linnen
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <003a01c712b6$4b466180$c1bfa6d8@pavilion>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> I have the remnants (carefully hoarded) of two bolts of a cotton/linen 
> blend
> that has a thread count of roughly 60/inch.  Better, it's evenweave, same
> count in both directions.  It is, too date (after almost 20 years in the
> SCA) the finest linen or linen approximation I have personally seen for
> sale.  *sigh*
> --Sue
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kimiko Small" <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 10:50 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] kammerdug/linnen
>
>
>> Hi Bjarne,
>>
>>   I have been chatting with others on a different list on fine linen
> recently, so your news is rather sad to hear. We are searching for that
> elusive fine linen.
>>
>>   However, there is at least one site I know of a draper who sells fine
> 2.8 oz (~ 79.38 grams) linen.
>>   http://wmboothdraper.com/Linen/linens_index.htm
>>   100% white handkerchief linen, 2.8 oz., 35" wide, $14.50/yd.
>> WLG 112 Please specify white (below) or off-white
>>
>>   He claims it "is some of the finest commercially produced today. At 55
> threads to the inch it is also tightly woven." (~ 22 threads per cm, if my
> math is right.) He also calls it cambric. I don't know how fine your
> kammerdug was, but does this come close? He does send swatches upon 
> request,
> as he just sent me 4 of different types of fine linen.
>>
>>   The linen to my hand is a bit crisp, and not as soft as other
> handkerchief weights I have samples of, but it feels smooth. However, I am
> no expert on linens, so I don't know how fine they can get. I am still
> learning.
>>
>>   It may be worth a look for you.
>>
>>   Kimiko
>>
>>
>> Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
>>   Hi,
>> I just wondered if some of you have had the same experienses.
>> I contakted the danish handicraft guild to enquire to their kammerdug
> (very
>> fine handkerchief linnen) and was quite surprised to hear from them that
>> this no longer is made.
>> I had baught from them about 10 years ago when i made a christening gown
>> with bobbin lace. And i wanted more for a gentlemans shirt.
>> The only substitute they have is a linnen with 14 threads pr. centimeter,
>> but thats not as fine as the old kammerdug.
>> Blast!
>>
>> Bjarne
>>
>>
>>
>> ---------------------------------
>> Check out the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta - Fire up a more powerful email 
>> and
> get things done faster.
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 11
> Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 07:38:34 +0000
> From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Holbein exhibit/London shows
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20061128073348.033fadd8@suziclarke.co.uk>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
> At 03:26 28/11/2006, you wrote:
>>WAAAAAH!!!!!  I didn't get to go:(
>>
>>Is the book on the collection really good?
>
> It's terrific - do you want me to get you one? I got you postcards!
> The book was a bit heavy to carry with me through the Velasquez
> exhibition we did on the same day, especially as I had one for me!
> You will know a lot of the pictures, but there are some that are not
> readily available on the Internet.
>
> If anyone is coming to London in the next few months there are
> several new exhibitions due - one I am particularly looking forward
> to is "Canaletto in England" (I think) at the Dulwich Picture
> Gallery. I can check the others if anyone is interested.
>
> Suzi
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 12
> Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 03:57:32 -0800 (PST)
> From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] kammerdug/linnen
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <20061128115732.23507.qmail@web39612.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
> Bjarne.
>
>  Why don't you talk to the nice woman who used to run Broderi Antik in 
> Copenhagen.
>  She had the most amazing "kammerdug" of which I had a meter. Still do. 
> Afraid ot even look at it. She might be able to help you.
>  Her email is elmbak@broderiantik.com
>
>
>  Tania
>
> Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com> wrote:
>  Hi Bjarne,
>
> I have been chatting with others on a different list on fine linen 
> recently, so your news is rather sad to hear. We are searching for that 
> elusive fine linen.
>
> However, there is at least one site I know of a draper who sells fine 2.8 
> oz (~ 79.38 grams) linen.
> http://wmboothdraper.com/Linen/linens_index.htm
> 100% white handkerchief linen, 2.8 oz., 35” wide, $14.50/yd.
> WLG 112 Please specify white (below) or off-white
>
> He claims it "is some of the finest commercially produced today. At 55 
> threads to the inch it is also tightly woven." (~ 22 threads per cm, if my 
> math is right.) He also calls it cambric. I don't know how fine your 
> kammerdug was, but does this come close? He does send swatches upon 
> request, as he just sent me 4 of different types of fine linen.
>
> The linen to my hand is a bit crisp, and not as soft as other handkerchief 
> weights I have samples of, but it feels smooth. However, I am no expert on 
> linens, so I don't know how fine they can get. I am still learning.
>
> It may be worth a look for you.
>
> Kimiko
>
>
> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Hi,
> I just wondered if some of you have had the same experienses.
> I contakted the danish handicraft guild to enquire to their kammerdug 
> (very
> fine handkerchief linnen) and was quite surprised to hear from them that
> this no longer is made.
> I had baught from them about 10 years ago when i made a christening gown
> with bobbin lace. And i wanted more for a gentlemans shirt.
> The only substitute they have is a linnen with 14 threads pr. centimeter,
> but thats not as fine as the old kammerdug.
> Blast!
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Check out the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta - Fire up a more powerful email and 
> get things done faster.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Cheap Talk? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> End of h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 744
> *****************************************
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Subject: [h-cost] striped skirt
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Status: RO


_http://www.renaissancewoman.net/realmofvenus/wardrobe/Dance1565.jpg_ 
(http://www.renaissancewoman.net/realmofvenus/wardrobe/Dance1565.jpg) 
Just an idle question here -- in the image above, the woman with her back  
turned to us has a skirt that appears to be striped. Would this be a brocaded or 
 patterned fabric of some sort, or an embellishment like embroidery or 
couching?  Or is it artistic license? I haven't seen a skirt like that on a 
realistic 16th  century person before (only allegorical or "foreigners"), but then  
these seem to be Italians, and I don't do Italian (not yet, anyway). 
 
Tea Rose
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From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] striped skirt
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Status: RO

People wore stripes and checks during the 16th C. Check out the paintings of
Sofanisba Angiusola (sp)

Monica (Catriona in SCA)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of TeaRoseS@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 10:18 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] striped skirt



_http://www.renaissancewoman.net/realmofvenus/wardrobe/Dance1565.jpg_
(http://www.renaissancewoman.net/realmofvenus/wardrobe/Dance1565.jpg)
Just an idle question here -- in the image above, the woman with her back
turned to us has a skirt that appears to be striped. Would this be a
brocaded or
 patterned fabric of some sort, or an embellishment like embroidery or
couching?  Or is it artistic license? I haven't seen a skirt like that on a
realistic 16th  century person before (only allegorical or "foreigners"),
but then
these seem to be Italians, and I don't do Italian (not yet, anyway).

Tea Rose
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Thank you Kathleen!

Penny Ladnier, 
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
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In a message dated 12/2/2006 12:22:47 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com writes:

, 1030's  era with a fishtail 
ruffle down the back. 


And an evil response to what I assume is a typo--did they do fishtails in  
the 1000s?
 
Ann Wass
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Kate Said:
(read: I was so clever at tucking it away, I cannot lay my hands on it right now!) waiting for me to decide what to do
> with it.

Oh, yeah, I remember that piece!  Where can it have gone?  Good stuph!

Maria

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Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2006 00:35:00 -0800 (PST)
From: Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] striped skirt
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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----- Original Message ----
From: "TeaRoseS@aol.com" <TeaRoseS@aol.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Sunday, 3 December, 2006 1:48:04 PM
Subject: [h-cost] striped skirt


_http://www.renaissancewoman.net/realmofvenus/wardrobe/Dance1565.jpg_ 
(http://www.renaissancewoman.net/realmofvenus/wardrobe/Dance1565.jpg) 
Just an idle question here -- in the image above, the woman with her back  
turned to us has a skirt that appears to be striped. Would this be a brocaded or 
patterned fabric of some sort, or an embellishment like embroidery or 
couching?  Or is it artistic license? I haven't seen a skirt like that on a 
realistic 16th  century person before (only allegorical or "foreigners"), but then  
these seem to be Italians, and I don't do Italian (not yet, anyway). 

Tea Rose<<<<<<<<


I believe those particular stripes to be brocaded/woven in. These...

http://www.renaissancewoman.net/realmofvenus/wardrobe/LadyWithHeron.jpg  

....are barely visible, but I believe that they too are woven in. Then there is this...

http://www.renaissancewoman.net/realmofvenus/wardrobe/Veronese1560.jpg 

The stripes there could be either woven in or applied, but my guess is woven in. However these stripes....   

http://www.renaissancewoman.net/realmofvenus/wardrobe/Fasolo.JPG

...although they could very well be woven-in, look much more like they are applied. These next are definitely woven-in I think....

http://www.renaissancewoman.net/realmofvenus/wardrobe/ForniGirolamoVicenza.jpg

...as are the next...almost looks like corduroy, but is probably a voided velvet.....

http://www.renaissancewoman.net/realmofvenus/wardrobe/Marietta1580-90.jpg

Hope that helps some.


Bella
The Realm of Venus
http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] striped skirt
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Status: RO

Boy, those are really narrow stripes, aren't they? I've never seen such a
nice, large image of this painting before, so I've never noticed them.
I've seen stripes show up occasionally in other Italian dresses in the 16th
century, and even earlier, so they're definitely not unknown, and not all
are allegorical.  The ones I'm able to recall this a.m., though, were all
wider, and looked almost pieced (solid areas of contrasting color, and not
especially patterned), but then, I'm just an Italian dabbler, and by no
means an expert.
Style-wise, I couldn't tell you...you might be able to cross-reference the
painting with the nationality of the painter and the region in which it was
painted, and come up with some similar examples.  There was so very much
going on in Italy during this time period, politically and economically and
culturally, that it's hard to say what was and wasn't "foreign," especially
since Italy was still a collection of city-states and not a single "Italy"
until much, much later.
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: <TeaRoseS@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 8:18 PM
Subject: [h-cost] striped skirt


>
> _http://www.renaissancewoman.net/realmofvenus/wardrobe/Dance1565.jpg_
> (http://www.renaissancewoman.net/realmofvenus/wardrobe/Dance1565.jpg)
> Just an idle question here -- in the image above, the woman with her back
> turned to us has a skirt that appears to be striped. Would this be a
brocaded or
>  patterned fabric of some sort, or an embellishment like embroidery or
> couching?  Or is it artistic license? I haven't seen a skirt like that on
a
> realistic 16th  century person before (only allegorical or "foreigners"),
but then
> these seem to be Italians, and I don't do Italian (not yet, anyway).
>
> Tea Rose


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
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The fishes did <evil grin>, but not the clothing afaik!
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 9:20 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?


>
> In a message dated 12/2/2006 12:22:47 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com writes:
>
> , 1030's  era with a fishtail
> ruffle down the back.
>
>
> And an evil response to what I assume is a typo--did they do fishtails in
> the 1000s?
>
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
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----- Original Message ----
From: "TeaRoseS@aol.com" <TeaRoseS@aol.com>
>  http://www.renaissancewoman.net/realmofvenus/wardrobe/Dance1565.jpg

You know, it looks to me like the dress in question has a sheer overlay on 
the skirt--look at the bottom there.  What's more, it kind of looks like the 
stripe might be in the overlay itself: a sheer purple and white stripe 
overlaying a gold-colored skirt.  Or, a gold-colored skirt with a purple 
overlay that's pleated in such a way that where it folds over, you get 
several layers of the sheer purple at regular intervals and therefore the 
effect of a stripe. (Not that I don't think they used stripes, as stripes 
are pretty easy to find elsewhere.)

Is it just me, or does anyone else see that?

-E House 

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Status: RO


ooopsie!  Yup, I meant 1930's

Kelly
>
> In a message dated 12/2/2006 12:22:47 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com writes:
>
> , 1030's  era with a fishtail
> ruffle down the back.
>
>
> And an evil response to what I assume is a typo--did they do fishtails in
> the 1000s?
>
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: Cat Dancer <pixel@hundred-acre-wood.com>
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Status: RO


If I had one (a brown tape one is on the project list somewhere) she'd be 
wearing either a mid-13th c. gown in gold wool twill that needs the 
sleeves tightened up and new trim put on, a 13th c. sleeveless gown in a 
lovely dark purple wool twill that needs hems, or a 13th c. sleeveless 
gown in red wool melton (it's for winter events) that needs some 
alterations, hem finishing and I think detached sleeves. The gold and the 
red are hand-sewn, so the purple is likely to get finished first. ;-)

The veils I'm hemming are in my project basket. :-)

pixel in cold but almost entirely un-snowy MN
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
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Status: RO

On Sunday 03 December 2006 9:59 pm, Cat Dancer wrote:
> If I had one (a brown tape one is on the project list somewhere) she'd be
> wearing either a mid-13th c. gown in gold wool twill that needs the
> sleeves tightened up and new trim put on, a 13th c. sleeveless gown in a
> lovely dark purple wool twill that needs hems, or a 13th c. sleeveless
> gown in red wool melton (it's for winter events) that needs some
> alterations, hem finishing and I think detached sleeves. The gold and the
> red are hand-sewn, so the purple is likely to get finished first. ;-)

Those all sound lovely!  I'm jealous.  :-)


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Query about Mod and the mid-1960's
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2006 22:32:55 -0800
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Status: RO

Re the 40's patterns-what size are you interested in? I ask because a friend
gave me a bunch of patterns from her mom, who used to be a seamstress. I
think I noticed some 40's stuff in the quick look I've taken.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 7:28 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Query about Mod and the mid-1960's


What about try to look at the library? I know for instance the library at 
Museum of Decorative Arts in Copenhagen takes home all the fashion journals,

and i think they have archived these.
Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 9:46 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Query about Mod and the mid-1960's


> Greetings everyone!
>
> I'm popping out of lurkdom after Worldcon and Loscon to ask for help while

> setting up another group set of costumes for next year's Friday Night Fun.

> Wonder of wonders, they are pulling me out of medieval era 
> clothing/costume and into making more early-to-mid 20th century stuff.
>
> The theme is "Mod" as in the mid 1960's.  My tighter focus, at least in 
> theory, is going to be closer to the items worn by Diana Riggs in the 
> Avengers, or one of the other similar designers, but I am also finding 
> interesting comments about a couple of other designers.  I'll share a few 
> of the ones I don't want for myself with some of the other folks doing the

> theme who haven't chosen yet as well.
>
> So my request is help in finding photos of garments made by John Bates 
> (Jean Varon), Andre Courneges, or Paco Rabanne.  I'll be trying to 
> determine a fiber which I can easily wear, as most of the polyester I 
> remember from that time (since I was well, very young then) makes me break

> out in serious cases of the itchies now.
>
> My husband's first vote is for the immediately identifiable first season 
> Emma Peel leather catsuit, but I want to see a few other ideas before I 
> make up my mind. (*grin*)
>
> Then to find a nice pair of 1940's patterns for me- one for day and one 
> for evening!
>
> Thank you,
>
> Jonnalyhn Wolfcat aka Angharat
>
>
>
>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
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Status: RO

The one I made closed up the front.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 7:40 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?


Penny Ladnier wrote:


> Another lady has on a c. 1910s white shirtwaist.  The same person 
> donated the shirtwaist.  It has beautiful lace collar and bib. Here is 
> this lady: http://www.costumegallery.com/VCU/Photos/1910/P1040106lg.jpg
> 

How does this shirt close? Up the front or the back?


Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for pictures of bum rolls
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Status: RO


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 04, 2006 5:38 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] looking for pictures of bum rolls


>I wear a bumroll with my Ren Faire costume and it doesn't stick out as far
> as in that painting. Also, the style of the clothing (especially the very
> long pointed fronts) is from the late 1500's, when wheel farthingales were
> worn. Bumrolls, worn alone, were earlier.
>
but if you made one as large as this 
http://www.geocities.com/technically_naked/grueso8.jpg it would stick out 
that far. What is your evidence for bumrolls worn alone prior to last decade 
or two of the 16th century? Prior to the fashion for the 'body on a platter' 
look a set of petticoats or a Spanish Farthingale would be all the skirt 
support I would suspect.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] looking for pictures of bum rolls
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2006 23:33:43 -0800
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Status: RO

My costume book, Lucy Barton's "Historic Costume fro the Stage", calls this
a bolster type farthingale. There is also a drawing on the same page of a
cart wheel farthingale. She uses drawings, many of actual paintings, to
illustrate the book.
We wear hoops to give the correct silhouette, but also use a bumroll to get
the "shelf" at the sides and back (but not the front), for gowns of the
1570's or so.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Elizabeth Walpole
Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2006 10:59 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for pictures of bum rolls



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 04, 2006 5:38 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] looking for pictures of bum rolls


>I wear a bumroll with my Ren Faire costume and it doesn't stick out as far
> as in that painting. Also, the style of the clothing (especially the very
> long pointed fronts) is from the late 1500's, when wheel farthingales were
> worn. Bumrolls, worn alone, were earlier.
>
but if you made one as large as this 
http://www.geocities.com/technically_naked/grueso8.jpg it would stick out 
that far. What is your evidence for bumrolls worn alone prior to last decade

or two of the 16th century? Prior to the fashion for the 'body on a platter'

look a set of petticoats or a Spanish Farthingale would be all the skirt 
support I would suspect.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] looking for pictures of bum rolls
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Status: RO

I wear a bumroll with my Ren Faire costume and it doesn't stick out as far
as in that painting. Also, the style of the clothing (especially the very
long pointed fronts) is from the late 1500's, when wheel farthingales were
worn. Bumrolls, worn alone, were earlier.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Zuzana Kraemerova
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 10:56 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] looking for pictures of bum rolls


That's my impression as well. Especially here:
 
http://homepage.mac.com/muzette/Eng.File/Art/Gallery_pages/Gallery_bal.html 
The curve at the skirt is very sharp - as if there was a wheel farthingale.
A bumroll would make a much more rounded look. Also the bend of the skirt is
kind of too far from the waist, this would mean that the bumroll must have
been quite large, but then it would make quite a round shape...
  
"Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com> wrote:
  It seems to be that the women are wearing wheel farthingales, not bumrolls
alone.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Elizabeth Walpole
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 12:31 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for pictures of bum rolls



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" 
To: "Historical Costume" 
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 6:27 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for pictures of bum rolls


>
> Following up my own post (below): Here's one of the images:
>
> http://www.insecula.com/oeuvre/photo_ME0000057470.html
>
> The presence of rolls is very clear, particularly on the woman in the
> right foreground, but on some others as well.
>
> It does seem to be at the Louvre, as I was remembering. I probably have
> some photos of it and its mate, but I haven't gotten around to indexing
> all of the 500 or so slides I took in Paris ... a few years ago ... yeesh,
> I will never get them all straight.
>
> --Robin
>
Aha! I found another 
http://homepage.mac.com/muzette/Eng.File/Art/Gallery_pages/Gallery_bal.html 
it's not that big but this is the one I was thinking of.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Status: RO

I just got an auto email regarding emails bouncing, and I have no idea why.. and I've just noticed that I haven't gotten any emails from the list since I got the auto membership reminder email on December 1.  I've not made any changes to my membership and fear that this is a phishing scam.  Has anyone else gotten one of these?

The body of the message is pasted below:

Your membership in the mailing list h-costume has been disabled due to
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From: "Rickard, Patty  " <RICKARPA@muc.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I've had lots of emails dated 12.2, but didn't get the auto email.

Patty

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
Sent: Monday, December 04, 2006 8:49 AM
To: Costume Historical
Subject: [h-cost] bounce confirmation?

I just got an auto email regarding emails bouncing, and I have no idea
why.. and I've just noticed that I haven't gotten any emails from the
list since I got the auto membership reminder email on December 1.  I've
not made any changes to my membership and fear that this is a phishing
scam.  Has anyone else gotten one of these?

The body of the message is pasted below:

Your membership in the mailing list h-costume has been disabled due to
excessive bounces The last bounce received from you was dated
26-Nov-2006.  You will not get any more messages from this list until
you re-enable your membership.  You will receive 2 more reminders like
this before your membership in the list is deleted.

To re-enable your membership, you can simply respond to this message
(leaving the Subject: line intact), or visit the confirmation page at
_______________________________________________
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] bounce confirmation?
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Status: RO

I got one too Astrid

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net 

> I just got an auto email regarding emails bouncing, and I have no idea why.. and 
> I've just noticed that I haven't gotten any emails from the list since I got the 
> auto membership reminder email on December 1. I've not made any changes to my 
> membership and fear that this is a phishing scam. Has anyone else gotten one of 
> these? 
> 
> The body of the message is pasted below: 
> 
> Your membership in the mailing list h-costume has been disabled due to 
> excessive bounces The last bounce received from you was dated 
> 26-Nov-2006. You will not get any more messages from this list until 
> you re-enable your membership. You will receive 2 more reminders like 
> this before your membership in the list is deleted. 
> 
> To re-enable your membership, you can simply respond to this message 
> (leaving the Subject: line intact), or visit the confirmation page at 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2006 09:18:18 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] bounce confirmation?
From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Actually ... it is because Comcast have recently been purchased by
Time Warner and is forcing all of us to migrate to the new servers
by bouncing your emails.

Go into what you thought was spam from Comcast and read it concering
your new service. Ours was titled: Welcome to Road Runner High Speed
from Time Warner Cable. Here in the DFW area it is tx.rr.net now
instead of comcast.net

It goes through instructions on how to do the migration.

Chiara Francesca

On Mon, December 4, 2006 7:49 am, elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
said:
> I just got an auto email regarding emails bouncing, and I have no
> idea why.. and I've just noticed that I haven't gotten any emails
> from the list since I got the auto membership reminder email on
> December 1.  I've not made any changes to my membership and fear
> that this is a phishing scam.  Has anyone else gotten one of these?
>
> The body of the message is pasted below:
>
> Your membership in the mailing list h-costume has been disabled due
> to
> excessive bounces The last bounce received from you was dated
> 26-Nov-2006.  You will not get any more messages from this list
> until
> you re-enable your membership.  You will receive 2 more reminders
> like
> this before your membership in the list is deleted.
>
> To re-enable your membership, you can simply respond to this message
> (leaving the Subject: line intact), or visit the confirmation page
> at
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>




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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Dec  4 11:37:18 2006
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From: M311@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2006 11:03:49 EST
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
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Status: RO

 
Mine is  wearing an original flapper dress. It was given to my husband's 
grandmother as  payment for work that she did for an elderly women (Marta 
McCracken) who had  worn it. There are no tags in it and I know nothing much about it. 
It is a  dove gray with lots of beading on it, an evening dress with a metal 
bag  that goes with it and a pewter leaf necklace to match. There is a silk 
wrap that  goes with it but it is so fine and fragile that I have it in a box. 
Marta  was well to do and got lots of gifts from her sister who was also well 
to  do--this dress was from her sister.  
 
Kelly  
m311@aol.com
www.mysensaria.com/time2spa

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Dec  4 13:10:36 2006
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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2006 12:21:32 -0500
Organization: Five Rivers
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Subject: [h-cost] The Green Valley
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Status: RO

            I don't know if any of you are following TVO's presentation of
the BBC series that follows the lives of several archaeologists/experts who
are recreating life in the 16th century. Unlike most reality shows, this one
is not set up for conflict, rather for discovery, hence the reason they
chose people who were knowledgeable of, and experienced with recreating, the
period in question.

 

            The costuming is wonderful, right down to the torn shirt of one
of the fellows, frayed hems, grotty nails and all. They're eating real
period food, doing real period tasks, with knowledge and in some cases with
additional expertise. There's no whining and whinging and secret caches of
modern items. They are completely and utterly dedicated to their year in the
16th century. It has been an interesting journey and I look forward to
further instalments.

 

Regards,

Lorina

Five Rivers Chapmanry

purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.

519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org

 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Dec  4 13:42:08 2006
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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] bounce confirmation?
Date: Mon, 04 Dec 2006 18:38:21 +0000
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Status: RO

Shucks!  I *did* think it was spamming and deleted it already.  But went ahead and re-subscribed to h-costume list anyways.  

No wonder I was starting to get cranky.  I hadn't had my daily H-list fix!

Thanks to all of you who contacted me!
Gia/Elena 

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: dshoover@comcast.net 

> I got one too Astrid 
> 
> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net 
> 
> > I just got an auto email regarding emails bouncing, and I have no idea why.. 
> and 
> > I've just noticed that I haven't gotten any emails from the list since I got 
> the 
> > auto membership reminder email on December 1. I've not made any changes to my 
> > membership and fear that this is a phishing scam. Has anyone else gotten one 
> of 
> > these? 
> > 
> > The body of the message is pasted below: 
> > 
> > Your membership in the mailing list h-costume has been disabled due to 
> > excessive bounces The last bounce received from you was dated 
> > 26-Nov-2006. You will not get any more messages from this list until 
> > you re-enable your membership. You will receive 2 more reminders like 
> > this before your membership in the list is deleted. 
> > 
> > To re-enable your membership, you can simply respond to this message 
> > (leaving the Subject: line intact), or visit the confirmation page at 
> > _______________________________________________ 
> > h-costume mailing list 
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
_______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Dec  4 13:59:25 2006
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Status: RO

Oh, LORD, this is JUST what I have wished and wished they would do,  
except of course that I wanted them to invite ME along. But I'm not  
finding it on US TV yet. PBS doesn't have a listing for it. Has  
anybody found it here south of the border?
Lauren

On Dec 4, 2006, at 12:21 PM, Five Rivers Chapmanry wrote:

>             I don't know if any of you are following TVO's  
> presentation of
> the BBC series that follows the lives of several archaeologists/ 
> experts who
> are recreating life in the 16th century. Unlike most reality shows,  
> this one
> is not set up for conflict, rather for discovery, hence the reason  
> they
> chose people who were knowledgeable of, and experienced with  
> recreating, the
> period in question.
>
>
>
>             The costuming is wonderful, right down to the torn  
> shirt of one
> of the fellows, frayed hems, grotty nails and all. They're eating real
> period food, doing real period tasks, with knowledge and in some  
> cases with
> additional expertise. There's no whining and whinging and secret  
> caches of
> modern items. They are completely and utterly dedicated to their  
> year in the
> 16th century. It has been an interesting journey and I look forward to
> further instalments.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Lorina
>
> Five Rivers Chapmanry
>
> purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted  
> cooperage,
> re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
>
> 519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



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From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Green Valley/Tales from the Green Valley
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Status: RO

At 18:52 04/12/2006, you wrote:
>Oh, LORD, this is JUST what I have wished and wished they would do,
>except of course that I wanted them to invite ME along. But I'm not
>finding it on US TV yet. PBS doesn't have a listing for it. Has
>anybody found it here south of the border?
>Lauren

This is actually called "Tales from the Green Valley" - maybe 
different in the U.S. There is a web site here 
http://www.petersommer.com/tv_tales.html and a DVD is available.

Suzi who loved every authentic minute!

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Status: RO

Oh, LORD, this is JUST what I have wished and wished they would do,  
except of course that I wanted them to invite ME along. But I'm not  
finding it on US TV yet. PBS doesn't have a listing for it. Has  
anybody found it here south of the border?
Lauren
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.
No but I will definitely be keeping an eye out for it.  Thanks for the
heads-up Lorina!

Catherine


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From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Query about Mod and the mid-1960's
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Status: RO

Many thanks to all who have given some input on this.  There are about 14 of us getting together and doing this grouping, so some of the designers/looks were requested by the others, but sending the information on links for those their way is still very helpful.

My library has two books with fashion in the 1960's, and yes, they are on hold already.  I'm also thinking of what TV shows or movies would be best to look at (aside from the aforementioned Avengers) for some ideas as well.  

I'm amused at the way this particular group of fen are influencing me to doing a bit more modern/retro costuming.  Some of them are doing a USO type show, hence the 1940's pattern search as well. :-)

Jonnalyhn Wolfcat / Angharat


 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Green Valley
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Status: RO

It was absolute bliss, utterly fascinating - and in Scotland they 
decided to take it off after 9 episodes, so we had to get the DVD to see 
the last 3 months, grrr!  I learned so much that you just don't think of 
- not specifics, but general things, like, spring is not a time of 
plenty, spring is the lean time while you wait for new stuff to grow. 
And what tools and structures are permanent, and which are temporary or 
disposable, made new when you need them.  Wonderful series.

Jean

Five Rivers Chapmanry <lgsteph@wightman.ca> wrote
>            I don't know if any of you are following TVO's presentation of
>the BBC series that follows the lives of several archaeologists/experts who
>are recreating life in the 16th century. Unlike most reality shows, this one
>is not set up for conflict, rather for discovery, hence the reason they
>chose people who were knowledgeable of, and experienced with recreating, the
>period in question.
>
>
>
>            The costuming is wonderful, right down to the torn shirt of one
>of the fellows, frayed hems, grotty nails and all. They're eating real
>period food, doing real period tasks, with knowledge and in some cases with
>additional expertise. There's no whining and whinging and secret caches of
>modern items. They are completely and utterly dedicated to their year in the
>16th century. It has been an interesting journey and I look forward to
>further instalments.
>
>
>
>Regards,
>
>Lorina
>
>Five Rivers Chapmanry
>
>purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
>re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
>
>519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

-- 
Jean Waddie
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Status: RO

What is TVO? Is there an online site for this? 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Five Rivers Chapmanry
Sent: Monday, December 04, 2006 9:22 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] The Green Valley


            I don't know if any of you are following TVO's presentation of
the BBC series that follows the lives of several archaeologists/experts who
are recreating life in the 16th century. Unlike most reality shows, this one
is not set up for conflict, rather for discovery, hence the reason they
chose people who were knowledgeable of, and experienced with recreating, the
period in question.

 

            The costuming is wonderful, right down to the torn shirt of one
of the fellows, frayed hems, grotty nails and all. They're eating real
period food, doing real period tasks, with knowledge and in some cases with
additional expertise. There's no whining and whinging and secret caches of
modern items. They are completely and utterly dedicated to their year in the
16th century. It has been an interesting journey and I look forward to
further instalments.

 

Regards,

Lorina

Five Rivers Chapmanry

purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.

519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org

 

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2006 14:50:38 -0800
From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Query about Mod and the mid-1960's
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Status: RO

For top of the Pops or Op - if you're trying for really Mod, try to
find Man from UNCLE, Girl from UNCLE, That Girl, Hulabalu!, Honey
West. Go**! I'm dating myself. Also check out Hard Day's Night and
Help for British pop clothing.

Best of luck,

LynnD
Hoping we get to see pictures!


On 12/4/06, Angharad ver' Reynulf <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Many thanks to all who have given some input on this.  There are about 14 of us getting together and doing this grouping, so some of the designers/looks were requested by the others, but sending the information on links for those their way is still very helpful.
>
> My library has two books with fashion in the 1960's, and yes, they are on hold already.  I'm also thinking of what TV shows or movies would be best to look at (aside from the aforementioned Avengers) for some ideas as well.
>
> I'm amused at the way this particular group of fen are influencing me to doing a bit more modern/retro costuming.  Some of them are doing a USO type show, hence the 1940's pattern search as well. :-)
>
> Jonnalyhn Wolfcat / Angharat
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
> Yahoo! Music Unlimited
> Access over 1 million songs.
> http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Status: RO

I bought the DVD but can only play it on my computer (which is fine).  Has
to do with PAL.  I may get a player to use for the 60" TV someday.  I just
didn't want to wait to see this show.  Of course, I got it just before going
back to work fulltime and won't have the time to look at it til mid January
(sigh).
Anne


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Status: RO


My 10-year-old son, who is far more musically inclined than I am, just had
his first experience at a medieval costumed event, where he went for the
sole purpose of finding the opportunity to play early music with other
like-minded souls. He intends to do more of this.

He has a suitable costume (c. 1300 in style, roughly Luttrell Psalter
working-class). However, he could use a way to carry his recorder safely
and conveniently. Ideally, it should be something that hangs from his
body, as he has the habit of putting things down and forgetting them.

I have never had the need to research period instrument cases, and I don't
really want to start now. But given the number of minstrel-types doing
re-enactment, I'm betting someone else has already devoted energy to this
subject. Can anyone point me to a webpage or other source for guidance?

If I don't find any hard documentation, I figure I'll take some quilted
fabric and make a recorder-sized tube, and then cover that with some wool
-- or else just use batting between two layers to create a padded tube.
The end could close with a foldover that can be fastened (latchet or
button), or maybe with a drawstring. It would also need a strap that would
let him carry it on his back. (He does wear a belt, but he's small for his
age, and even a soprano recorder would end up knocking around his knees if
he hung it from a belt.) If anyone has advice to improve on that scheme,
I'm all ears.

I have ruled out stuffing it down his hood liripipe primarily because he'd
probably end up sitting on it. But believe me, I was tempted.

--Robin

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Research on medieval instrument cases?
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2006 01:42:37 -0600
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Status: RO

Robin, I'm sending this to the Calonlist as I know there are musicians there
but I think you are pretty much on track with a tubular pouch but probably a
tie flap and not a drawstring. Basically, make the tube about 2 1/2"-3"
longer so that it folds below the mouth/opening and you can have a 1 1/2"
flap that ties to the body of the tube. Having the fold below the mouth of
the tub closes it and with wool or water proofing stuff protects it from
most elements. lucet cords, braided, that goes over the shoulder and under
the arm should work.
Though I don't have proof of the practice, you or when he is old and wants
to learn, could embroider a design on the case.

De



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Status: RO


>I think you are pretty much on track with a tubular pouch but probably a tie flap and not a drawstring. 

This is completely NON period, but I would take a piece of pvc and put it in the pouch. This way, even if he sits on it, it would be protected. Completely covered inside and out, it wouldn't even be that noticeable.
           --Kathy
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Subject: Re:[h-cost] Research on medieval instrument cases?
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Status: RO


> This is completely NON period, but I would take a piece of pvc and put
> it in the pouch. This way, even if he sits on it, it would be protected.
> Completely covered inside and out, it wouldn't even be that
> noticeable.

My first thought was of some of the scabbards in the Museum of London book,
_Knives and scabbards_.  They are (if memory serves) hardened leather tube-ish
cases.  It wouldn't be too hard to make a leather case hardened (over
appropriately-sized PVC, perhaps) in boiling water or hot wax.  Ask the
armourers in your vicinity.  The result might not be what was done in period,
but would at least use period techniques and materials and produce a result that
looks right.

Emma
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re:[h-cost] Research on medieval instrument cases?
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Status: RO


Kathy wrote:

> This is completely NON period, but I would take a piece of pvc and put
> it in the pouch. This way, even if he sits on it, it would be
> protected. Completely covered inside and out, it wouldn't even be that
> noticeable.

Emma added:

> My first thought was of some of the scabbards in the Museum of London
> book, _Knives and scabbards_.  They are (if memory serves) hardened
> leather tube-ish cases.  It wouldn't be too hard to make a leather
> case hardened (over appropriately-sized PVC, perhaps) in boiling water
> or hot wax.  Ask the armourers in your vicinity.  The result might not
> be what was done in period, but would at least use period techniques
> and materials and produce a result that looks right.

Both of these are good thoughts. The idea of leather rather than fabric
struck me after I wrote my note, but I'm not in contact with local
re-enactors and I don't do much leatherwork, though I might be able to sew
some heavy pieces together. Maybe a combination, with leather on the
outside, PVC for stiffness, and I could get away without hardening it that
way. Bonus: My son could help with putting the leather together.

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Green Valley
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Status: RO

Lorina wrote:

>            I don't know if any of you are following TVO's
presentation of
>the BBC series that follows the lives of several
archaeologists/experts who
>are recreating life in the 16th century. Unlike most reality shows,
this one
>is not set up for conflict, rather for discovery, hence the reason
they
>chose people who were knowledgeable of, and experienced with
recreating, the
>period in question.

Yes, I posted a similar comment when the series was shown in the UK
last year. After it had finished, an article by Stuart Peachey was
published in the magazine of my reenactment society explaining how
things hadn't happened quite as they appeared on TV - one of the young
men was only there for part of the year but the company cleverly edited
the footage to make it look as though he was in the team throughout.

A great series, though, and much enjoyed by reenactors over here.



Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor
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From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Research on medieval instrument cases?
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Status: RO

> Both of these are good thoughts. The idea of leather rather than fabric
> struck me after I wrote my note, but I'm not in contact with local
> re-enactors and I don't do much leatherwork, though I might be able to sew
> some heavy pieces together. Maybe a combination, with leather on the
> outside, PVC for stiffness, and I could get away without hardening it that
> way. Bonus: My son could help with putting the leather together.
>
> --Robin


My hint for working with the leather if you plan on sewing by hand is to run
it through the sewing machine first without thread and using the heavy duty
needle, ideally a leather needle.  It is a lot less demanding on your hands
to be able to stitch through leather that is already pre-punched, and the
holes will be perfectly even so your stitching will look even better.  That
and use the smallest needle you can deal with and have a small pair of
needlenose pliers on hand.  Sometimes pulling the needle through the leather
is contingent on being about to grasp the needle and the pliers help a lot.

It's either that or use a bit of spray adhesive on the pvc and just wrap the
leather around, holes drilled through the top to allow the lacing through,
could go really quick.  The bottom could be capped with a circle that is
"gathered" up  over the end, the inside glued and the outside wrapped with a
leather strip.

depends on the look that you're going for.

alex
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Research on medieval instrument cases?
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Status: RO

I've read all the interesting suggestions posted so far. What occurs to me, particularly because you want him to be able to wear it on his back, is a modified quiver. You could even play the jest all the way and put a few dummy arrows in there along with the recorder--maybe make a rigid tie-down lid for the quiver and mount a clutch of feathered arrow-tops on that?
Sorry--I've been reading an awful lot (an awful LOT or an AWFUL lot? I think I mean it both ways...) of freshman essays and am taking refuge in whimsy!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer


-----Original Message-----
>From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
>Sent: Dec 5, 2006 2:56 AM
>To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Research on medieval instrument cases?
>
>
>My 10-year-old son, who is far more musically inclined than I am, just had
>his first experience at a medieval costumed event, where he went for the
>sole purpose of finding the opportunity to play early music with other
>like-minded souls. He intends to do more of this.
>
>He has a suitable costume (c. 1300 in style, roughly Luttrell Psalter
>working-class). However, he could use a way to carry his recorder safely
>and conveniently. Ideally, it should be something that hangs from his
>body, as he has the habit of putting things down and forgetting them.
>
>I have never had the need to research period instrument cases, and I don't
>really want to start now. But given the number of minstrel-types doing
>re-enactment, I'm betting someone else has already devoted energy to this
>subject. Can anyone point me to a webpage or other source for guidance?
>
>If I don't find any hard documentation, I figure I'll take some quilted
>fabric and make a recorder-sized tube, and then cover that with some wool
>-- or else just use batting between two layers to create a padded tube.
>The end could close with a foldover that can be fastened (latchet or
>button), or maybe with a drawstring. It would also need a strap that would
>let him carry it on his back. (He does wear a belt, but he's small for his
>age, and even a soprano recorder would end up knocking around his knees if
>he hung it from a belt.) If anyone has advice to improve on that scheme,
>I'm all ears.
>
>I have ruled out stuffing it down his hood liripipe primarily because he'd
>probably end up sitting on it. But believe me, I was tempted.
>
>--Robin
>
>_______________________________________________
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I have Hard Day's Night and Help, as well as Modesty Blaise on the list to go to the library today to pick up my holds.  I'd forgotten about the Man from UNCLE, thank you!

Pics?  Judging by the number of pics we had taken as a group with this years fun of Space Cadet Girl Scouts I can guarantee that there will be pictures. 


Jonnalyhn Wolfcat / Angharat

----- Original Message ----
From: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 4, 2006 2:50:38 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Query about Mod and the mid-1960's


For top of the Pops or Op - if you're trying for really Mod, try to
find Man from UNCLE, Girl from UNCLE, That Girl, Hulabalu!, Honey
West. Go**! I'm dating myself. Also check out Hard Day's Night and
Help for British pop clothing.

Best of luck,

LynnD
Hoping we get to see pictures!


 
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	TVO is TV Ontario, a public broadcasting station here in Ontario,
Canada. Those of you who have satellite TV in the US may be able to get it
through one of your packages.

Regards,
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org


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Subject: [h-cost] corset boning
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Hi,
   
  I've a question for all corset makers here: which kind of boning (steel or plastic) would you use for a victorian - style corset (if not a real whalebone)? And generally, what experiences do you have when using steel or plastic boning? Do you mix them as well? 
  I'd really like to hear some experiences:-))
   
  Zuzana 
   

 
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:Research on medieval instrument cases?
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Status: RO

Robin, have you seen the instrument cases in the "Triumph of Maximilian"
series of engravings? e.g.
http://www.thinker.org/imagebase_zoom.asp?rec=3328201308440055 ?

Some years ago when I was portraying a 17th century military drummer
and wanted to carry a wind instrument hanging from my belt, I made a
canvas tube, stiffened with plastic and lined with soft fabric. I
couldn't reproduce the top of the cases in the Max. picture (anyway, I
was on foot!) so I made a flap to cover the top.

It's good to hear that your son is so keen at only ten years old!

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] corset boning
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Status: RO

The more you tight lace/squish in, the more you need steel.  If you are 
looking for a period silhouette without tight lacing, plastic works just 
fine.  When I make corsets, I use plastic corset boning for everything 
except a busk, as I am not overweight, have an average bust size, and 
have no desire to change my size.

Plastic is easy to cut and otherwise deal with, and there is no danger 
of a coating rubbing off and therefore rust getting onto the corset. You 
can easily slide the manufacturer's fabric cover off if desired. I have 
not bothered with trying cable ties and such, since the regular boning 
works just fine for me.  Also, I buy certain standard supplies in bulk, 
because I hate shopping in the middle of a project; so I already have a 
big roll of plastic corset boning around.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:

> Hi,
>    
>   I've a question for all corset makers here: which kind of boning (steel or plastic) would you use for a victorian - style corset (if not a real whalebone)? And generally, what experiences do you have when using steel or plastic boning? Do you mix them as well? 
>   I'd really like to hear some experiences:-))
>    
>   Zuzana 
>   
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:Research on medieval instrument cases?
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On Tue, 5 Dec 2006, Kate M Bunting wrote:

> Robin, have you seen the instrument cases in the "Triumph of
> Maximilian" series of engravings? e.g.
> http://www.thinker.org/imagebase_zoom.asp?rec=3328201308440055 ?

Thank you! I would never have known about this.

I can come up with any number of ways to make a functional case (including
the good ideas that have been discussed here already) but ideally I'd like
to make something that replicates a look known to be period. The period
I'm aiming for is rather early than Maximilian, but anything medieval
would be better than a wild guess. So, I'm hoping there are people (like
you) who have already gone a-hunting for images of these and can share.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] corset boning
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Status: RO

What style of Victorian corset do you plan to make?  Do you have a 
pattern/image picked out? How regularly do you plan to wear the corset--will 
it be a daily thing, on the weekends, a few times a year, or only once?

-E House

PS-- you might want to join
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Historical_Corsets 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Research on medieval instrument cases?
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Status: RO

Mmm I don't think back quivers are medieval.
Altough I love them.

Greetings,
       Deredere

ruthanneb@mindspring.com wrote:
> I've read all the interesting suggestions posted so far. What occurs to me, particularly because you want him to be able to wear it on his back, is a modified quiver. You could even play the jest all the way and put a few dummy arrows in there along with the recorder--maybe make a rigid tie-down lid for the quiver and mount a clutch of feathered arrow-tops on that?
> Sorry--I've been reading an awful lot (an awful LOT or an AWFUL lot? I think I mean it both ways...) of freshman essays and am taking refuge in whimsy!
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>   
>> From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
>> Sent: Dec 5, 2006 2:56 AM
>> To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Subject: [h-cost] Research on medieval instrument cases?
>>
>>
>> My 10-year-old son, who is far more musically inclined than I am, just had
>> his first experience at a medieval costumed event, where he went for the
>> sole purpose of finding the opportunity to play early music with other
>> like-minded souls. He intends to do more of this.
>>
>> He has a suitable costume (c. 1300 in style, roughly Luttrell Psalter
>> working-class). However, he could use a way to carry his recorder safely
>> and conveniently. Ideally, it should be something that hangs from his
>> body, as he has the habit of putting things down and forgetting them.
>>
>> I have never had the need to research period instrument cases, and I don't
>> really want to start now. But given the number of minstrel-types doing
>> re-enactment, I'm betting someone else has already devoted energy to this
>> subject. Can anyone point me to a webpage or other source for guidance?
>>
>> If I don't find any hard documentation, I figure I'll take some quilted
>> fabric and make a recorder-sized tube, and then cover that with some wool
>> -- or else just use batting between two layers to create a padded tube.
>> The end could close with a foldover that can be fastened (latchet or
>> button), or maybe with a drawstring. It would also need a strap that would
>> let him carry it on his back. (He does wear a belt, but he's small for his
>> age, and even a soprano recorder would end up knocking around his knees if
>> he hung it from a belt.) If anyone has advice to improve on that scheme,
>> I'm all ears.
>>
>> I have ruled out stuffing it down his hood liripipe primarily because he'd
>> probably end up sitting on it. But believe me, I was tempted.
>>
>> --Robin
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>>     
>
> _______________________________________________
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>   

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Status: RO

 Wow, thanks for the info, guys. 



So, Bella, are those images all Italians? Are stripes ever found anywhere outside of Italy?



I usually do English/Flemish, and my friend Dawn (of DawnPages, who posts on this list) pointed out 

that you never see woven-in stripes in northern Europe. I noticed some stripes in some Brueghel paintings 

(sermon of John the Baptist is one, I think) but they're always in paintings that are supposed to be 

in the Holy Land. So I was kind of wondering if stripes could be considered a Middle Eastern or 

Mediterranean influence. 



TR

========================================================

Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2006 22:18:04 EST
From: TeaRoseS@aol.com
Subject: [h-cost] striped skirt
_http://www.renaissancewoman.net/realmofvenus/wardrobe/Dance1565.jpg_ 
(http://www.renaissancewoman.net/realmofvenus/wardrobe/Dance1565.jpg) 
Just an idle question here -- in the image above, the woman with her back  
turned to us has a skirt that appears to be striped. Would this be a brocaded or 
patterned fabric of some sort, or an embellishment like embroidery or 
couching? 
 
Tea Rose


Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2006 00:35:00 -0800 (PST)
From: Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] striped skirt


I believe those particular stripes to be brocaded/woven in. These...
http://www.renaissancewoman.net/realmofvenus/wardrobe/LadyWithHeron.jpg  
....are barely visible, but I believe that they too are woven in. Then there is 
this...
http://www.renaissancewoman.net/realmofvenus/wardrobe/Veronese1560.jpg 
The stripes there could be either woven in or applied, but my guess is woven in. 
However these stripes....   
http://www.renaissancewoman.net/realmofvenus/wardrobe/Fasolo.JPG
...although they could very well be woven-in, look much more like they are 
applied. These next are definitely woven-in I think....
http://www.renaissancewoman.net/realmofvenus/wardrobe/ForniGirolamoVicenza.jpg
...as are the next...almost looks like corduroy, but is probably a voided 
velvet.....
http://www.renaissancewoman.net/realmofvenus/wardrobe/Marietta1580-90.jpg
Hope that helps some.
Bella
The Realm of Venus
http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/


   
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: <tearoses@aol.com>
> Are stripes ever found anywhere outside of Italy?

If you want to crossdress, there are plenty of 15th & early 16thC 
Franco-Flemish & German males wearing stripes!  Especially striped hosen, 
which is an interesting effect.

-E House

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Date: Tue, 05 Dec 2006 18:54:21 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] corset boning
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Status: RO

At 18:09 05/12/2006, you wrote:
>What style of Victorian corset do you plan to make?  Do you have a 
>pattern/image picked out? How regularly do you plan to wear the 
>corset--will it be a daily thing, on the weekends, a few times a 
>year, or only once?
>
>-E House


I use spiral steel for all Victorian era corsets, with straight 
steels either side the lacing holes, and a steel busk in the centre 
front if required. I would never use plastic boning for this period - 
where whalebone was not used, most times, as far as I know, spiral 
steel was used. To my mind, no matter what size the customer, the 
plastic stuff doesn't work for the period - I use it for earlier 
stuff though - I don't like cable ties. My original Victorian corsets 
have either whalebone or spirals.

Suzi

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Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker dummy wearing and sewing affliction
	<G>
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Status: RO

Well, my dummy is naked, but my sewing machine and work table are wearing pieces of the medieval dress with big bell sleeves that I've taken apart so I can remake it to fit me.  When I bought it I thought it would just need hemming.  Once I got into it I found it was going to be much more complicated.  I ended up taking it apart almost to flat fabric.  The neckline in it was cut so wide that I've had to create a contrast yoke instead of just an overlay.

I've also bought an Elizabethan that's worked out the same way.  Loved the fabric.  I thought it would be a quick fix...but I was wrong.  I got the front of the bodice to fit well but I had a 3" gap at the back lacing!  The bodice and forepart are the same fabric so I'll be salvaging from there to remake the bodice.  Why is nothing ever as easy as it first appears?

A friend of mine commented that most seamstresses he knows buy fabric to make costumes but I buy costumes and make fabric <G>.

I've thought about that a lot.  I think I have a severe fear of making that initial cut into "virgin" fabric.  Anyone else suffer from this?

Julie

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Status: RO

Whalebone is now illegal, but the support and flexibility of the old 
stuff are pretty similar to modern plastic boning.

Fran

> 
> I use spiral steel for all Victorian era corsets, with straight steels 
> either side the lacing holes, and a steel busk in the centre front if 
> required. I would never use plastic boning for this period - where 
> whalebone was not used, most times, as far as I know, spiral steel was 
> used. To my mind, no matter what size the customer, the plastic stuff 
> doesn't work for the period - I use it for earlier stuff though - I 
> don't like cable ties. My original Victorian corsets have either 
> whalebone or spirals.
> 
> Suzi

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From: ruthanneb@mindspring.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Research on medieval instrument cases?
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Status: RO

Oh, dear, so much for Robin Hood (and his band of merry men!)!
--Ruth Anne

-----Original Message-----
>From: Deredere Galbraith <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl>
>Sent: Dec 5, 2006 11:42 AM
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Research on medieval instrument cases?
>
>Mmm I don't think back quivers are medieval.
>Altough I love them.
>
>Greetings,
>       Deredere
>
>ruthanneb@mindspring.com wrote:
>> I've read all the interesting suggestions posted so far. What occurs to me, particularly because you want him to be able to wear it on his back, is a modified quiver. You could even play the jest all the way and put a few dummy arrows in there along with the recorder--maybe make a rigid tie-down lid for the quiver and mount a clutch of feathered arrow-tops on that?
>> Sorry--I've been reading an awful lot (an awful LOT or an AWFUL lot? I think I mean it both ways...) of freshman essays and am taking refuge in whimsy!
>> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
>> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>   
>>> From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
>>> Sent: Dec 5, 2006 2:56 AM
>>> To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
>>> Subject: [h-cost] Research on medieval instrument cases?
>>>
>>>
>>> My 10-year-old son, who is far more musically inclined than I am, just had
>>> his first experience at a medieval costumed event, where he went for the
>>> sole purpose of finding the opportunity to play early music with other
>>> like-minded souls. He intends to do more of this.
>>>
>>> He has a suitable costume (c. 1300 in style, roughly Luttrell Psalter
>>> working-class). However, he could use a way to carry his recorder safely
>>> and conveniently. Ideally, it should be something that hangs from his
>>> body, as he has the habit of putting things down and forgetting them.
>>>
>>> I have never had the need to research period instrument cases, and I don't
>>> really want to start now. But given the number of minstrel-types doing
>>> re-enactment, I'm betting someone else has already devoted energy to this
>>> subject. Can anyone point me to a webpage or other source for guidance?
>>>
>>> If I don't find any hard documentation, I figure I'll take some quilted
>>> fabric and make a recorder-sized tube, and then cover that with some wool
>>> -- or else just use batting between two layers to create a padded tube.
>>> The end could close with a foldover that can be fastened (latchet or
>>> button), or maybe with a drawstring. It would also need a strap that would
>>> let him carry it on his back. (He does wear a belt, but he's small for his
>>> age, and even a soprano recorder would end up knocking around his knees if
>>> he hung it from a belt.) If anyone has advice to improve on that scheme,
>>> I'm all ears.
>>>
>>> I have ruled out stuffing it down his hood liripipe primarily because he'd
>>> probably end up sitting on it. But believe me, I was tempted.
>>>
>>> --Robin
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>     
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
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>>
>>   
>
>_______________________________________________
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Status: RO

In a message dated 05/12/2006 16:18:35 GMT Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> 
> 
> It was absolute bliss, utterly fascinating - and in Scotland they 
> decided to take it off after 9 episodes, so we had to get the DVD to see 
> the last 3 months, grrr!  I learned so much that you just don't think of 
> - not specifics, but general things, like, spring is not a time of 
> plenty, spring is the lean time while you wait for new stuff to grow. 
> And what tools and structures are permanent, and which are temporary or 
> disposable, made new when you need them.  Wonderful series.
> 
> Jean

It was very good.  Although Stuart's grinning about EVERYTHING got on my 
nerves :o)

But with Ruth Goodman (font of 16th / 17th C knowledge that she is!) so 
involved it could hardly be anything but good.
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From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] corset boning
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Status: RO

At 19:08 05/12/2006, you wrote:
>Whalebone is now illegal, but the support and flexibility of the old 
>stuff are pretty similar to modern plastic boning.
>
>Fran
>
>>I use spiral steel for all Victorian era corsets, with straight 
>>steels either side the lacing holes, and a steel busk in the centre 
>>front if required. I would never use plastic boning for this period 
>>- where whalebone was not used, most times, as far as I know, 
>>spiral steel was used. To my mind, no matter what size the 
>>customer, the plastic stuff doesn't work for the period - I use it 
>>for earlier stuff though - I don't like cable ties. My original 
>>Victorian corsets have either whalebone or spirals.
>>Suzi

You can actually purchase whalebone legally from Inuit traders. This 
was on a discussion list I was looking at last week. I have a bundle 
of genuine corset whalebone inherited from an elderly corsetiere, 
ands while it is flexible like modern plastic boning, which I like 
for other periods, there is just a little more rigidity in the 
whalebone - and not because it is aged and dried out.

Suzi

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In a message dated 05/12/2006 19:04:35 GMT Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> I use spiral steel for all Victorian era corsets, with straight 
> steels either side the lacing holes, and a steel busk in the centre 
> front if required. I would never use plastic boning for this period - 
> where whalebone was not used, most times, as far as I know, spiral 
> steel was used. To my mind, no matter what size the customer, the 
> plastic stuff doesn't work for the period - I use it for earlier 
> stuff though - I don't like cable ties. My original Victorian corsets 
> have either whalebone or spirals.
> 
> Suzi

I agree.

I hate plastic boning in general (don't use it even on modern stuff.  Never 
tried cable ties, but with steels being so cheap these days dpn't really see 
the point.

As with Suzi, I use a combo of straight and spiral steel and steel busks.  I 
use bolt cutters to cut the steels, and use metal endcaps.

Debs
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In a message dated 05/12/2006 19:04:35 GMT Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> I've thought about that a lot.  I think I have a severe fear of making that 
> initial cut into "virgin" fabric.  Anyone else suffer from this?

completely - with expensive or hard to get fabric.

imagine what I'll be like in a few weeks with the silk doublet I have to 
make.  the silk's £70+ per metre!!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] corset boning
References: <20061205172901.96306.qmail@web37504.mail.mud.yahoo.com>	<00ce01c71898$7cb76d80$ac00a8c0@compaqub>	<7.0.1.0.2.20061205185059.0344ac50@suziclarke.co.uk>	<4575C392.80808@lavoltapress.com>
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> 
> You can actually purchase whalebone legally from Inuit traders. This was 
> on a discussion list I was looking at last week. I have a bundle of 
> genuine corset whalebone inherited from an elderly corsetiere, ands 
> while it is flexible like modern plastic boning, which I like for other 
> periods, there is just a little more rigidity in the whalebone - and not 
> because it is aged and dried out.

Whalebone does get brittle with age.

I would not buy whalebone even legally because I think preserving the 
whale population is more important than "total accuracy."

Fran

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2006 14:21:54 -0600
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Status: RO

Yes, You can find stripes in Germanic men and women's outfits.
Men
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Robert_Campin_001.jpg

women
this one you kind o' miss, the woman in yellow has a brocade [diagonal?]
stripes, monochromatic
http://tinyurl.com/ylxjrk
http://tinyurl.com/yjqfsv

De

-----Original Message-----
If you want to crossdress, there are plenty of 15th & early 16thC
Franco-Flemish & German males wearing stripes!  Especially striped hosen,
which is an interesting effect.

-E House


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Status: RO

I haven't picked out any exact pattern or image, I don't know exactly how the corset is going to look like yet. The basic idea is of a corset without gussets (or with as little as possible), with rather vertical seams. 
  I got a very special (and very funny, too) order from a man who bet with someone that he would live and behave like a woman for two days, which includes, of course, him being dressed as a lady. I think the point is that no one may recognize him, but I'm not sure, anyway, it's none of my business. The thing is, he wants me to make him a corset which would form his body to resemble a woman figure. This means to squeeze the waist. I thought some corset of the victorian style might be good for that, but the intention is not to be authentic, but to form the body. And as I've only done corsets for myself (using plastic boning), I wasn't sure about what kind of boning should I use in this case. I don't like plastic boning much because it's quite thick, so I started wondering about some steel.
  And repeating what I said above, the corset will be worn for two days without a break (except for sleeping). But I think I'll recommend the man to wear it some time before, to get used to it. 
   
   
  

E House <formfunc@formfunction.org> wrote:
  What style of Victorian corset do you plan to make? Do you have a 
pattern/image picked out? How regularly do you plan to wear the corset--will 
it be a daily thing, on the weekends, a few times a year, or only once?

-E House

PS-- you might want to join
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Historical_Corsets 

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20061205172901.96306.qmail@web37504.mail.mud.yahoo.com><00ce01c71898$7cb76d80$ac00a8c0@compaqub><7.0.1.0.2.20061205185059.0344ac50@suziclarke.co.uk><4575C392.80808@lavoltapress.com>
	<7.0.1.0.2.20061205195107.03425040@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] corset boning
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2006 21:39:12 +0100
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Status: RO

Hi Suzi,
Yes it is, and i also dont wonder any more, how they could make the big 
panniers that light and delicate, and still have the strenght to hold all 
the heavy fabric on the dresses.
Plastic is all right, but really not the same.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 8:54 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] corset boning


> At 19:08 05/12/2006, you wrote:
>>Whalebone is now illegal, but the support and flexibility of the old stuff 
>>are pretty similar to modern plastic boning.
>>
>>Fran
>>
>>>I use spiral steel for all Victorian era corsets, with straight steels 
>>>either side the lacing holes, and a steel busk in the centre front if 
>>>required. I would never use plastic boning for this period - where 
>>>whalebone was not used, most times, as far as I know, spiral steel was 
>>>used. To my mind, no matter what size the customer, the plastic stuff 
>>>doesn't work for the period - I use it for earlier stuff though - I don't 
>>>like cable ties. My original Victorian corsets have either whalebone or 
>>>spirals.
>>>Suzi
>
> You can actually purchase whalebone legally from Inuit traders. This was 
> on a discussion list I was looking at last week. I have a bundle of 
> genuine corset whalebone inherited from an elderly corsetiere, ands while 
> it is flexible like modern plastic boning, which I like for other periods, 
> there is just a little more rigidity in the whalebone - and not because it 
> is aged and dried out.
>
> Suzi
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] corset boning
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Status: RO

Hi,
I would not use a victorian corset for a man. It would be two uncomfortable 
for him to wear with the hourglass figure.
Many years ago i made a costume for myself from the painting of Henry III of 
france, he has a very slim waist in the portrait, broad shoulders and a big 
ruff.
I made a corset for myself to have that figure and i just rounded off the 
front part at the bottom and made 4 pieces in all with boning.
Sorry i dont have any pictures, but it was when i was very young and slim, i 
really got the figure from the painting.
He could always just wear a padding for the bust over the corset, not under.
Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Zuzana Kraemerova" <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 9:27 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] corset boning


>I haven't picked out any exact pattern or image, I don't know exactly how 
>the corset is going to look like yet. The basic idea is of a corset without 
>gussets (or with as little as possible), with rather vertical seams.
>  I got a very special (and very funny, too) order from a man who bet with 
> someone that he would live and behave like a woman for two days, which 
> includes, of course, him being dressed as a lady. I think the point is 
> that no one may recognize him, but I'm not sure, anyway, it's none of my 
> business. The thing is, he wants me to make him a corset which would form 
> his body to resemble a woman figure. This means to squeeze the waist. I 
> thought some corset of the victorian style might be good for that, but the 
> intention is not to be authentic, but to form the body. And as I've only 
> done corsets for myself (using plastic boning), I wasn't sure about what 
> kind of boning should I use in this case. I don't like plastic boning much 
> because it's quite thick, so I started wondering about some steel.
>  And repeating what I said above, the corset will be worn for two days 
> without a break (except for sleeping). But I think I'll recommend the man 
> to wear it some time before, to get used to it.
>
>
>
>
> E House <formfunc@formfunction.org> wrote:
>  What style of Victorian corset do you plan to make? Do you have a
> pattern/image picked out? How regularly do you plan to wear the 
> corset--will
> it be a daily thing, on the weekends, a few times a year, or only once?
>
> -E House
>
> PS-- you might want to join
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Historical_Corsets
>
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] corset boning
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Status: RO

Longer post w/pics later tonight cos I'm about to go run errands, but in the 
late victorian/edwardian era there are men's corsets--you might want to base 
the one you make on them, at least in terms of design & construction, if not 
shape. (They were generally marketed towards older military men, who wanted 
to look sharp in their uniforms despite a saggy middle!)

It sounds like metal boning would fit the bill, but so would plastic.  There 
are several types of plastic ties available at a low cost at Home Depot & 
Lowes, and one of them is thin & narrow--not at all bulky.  You have to use 
quite a lot more, but the end result is incredibly comfortable (almost like 
a corded corset). The drawback is that plastic boning does a much better job 
of molding itself to the body, which in this case is not at all the goal!

Also, there's no reason that you can't combine the two.  A combination of 
steel boning and whalebone is very common in corsets of the era.

-E House

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Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2006 15:45:06 -0600
From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] h-cost] What's your dressmaker dummy wearing and sewing
	affliction
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Status: RO

> > I've thought about that a lot.  I think I have a severe fear of making
> that
> > initial cut into "virgin" fabric.  Anyone else suffer from this?
>
> completely - with expensive or hard to get fabric.


I use to have that problem big time, but now, the more I use such fabrics,
the less I am intimidated by them.

Now, taking apart a garment to remake it... I can't go there, the garments
got to be really, really wrong before I'll take something apart and remake
it.  I'll find "cheats around such things so I don't have to take it apart.


Like that 3" gap, I'd get a "privacy" panel of like or same fabric and
insert it behind the lacings.

I have a gown that was pearled, with the "perfect" Elizabethan style woven
patterned fabric, that got washed and shrunk.  It's taken me four years to
decide to take it apart, part of the way and remake it for my granddaughter.

alex
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] corset boning
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Status: RO

If it as a modern woman, a Victorian corset is not the thing.

Speaking as a resident of San Francisco, I can say that the things that 
really give away a transvestite are the size and shape of the hands and 
wrists, the size of the shoulders, and often the shape of the jaw.

Fran

> I haven't picked out any exact pattern or image, I don't know exactly how the corset is going to look like yet. The basic idea is of a corset without gussets (or with as little as possible), with rather vertical seams. 
>   I got a very special (and very funny, too) order from a man who bet with someone that he would live and behave like a woman for two days, which includes, of course, him being dressed as a lady. 

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From: Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
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----- Original Message ----
From: "tearoses@aol.com" <tearoses@aol.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Wednesday, 6 December, 2006 4:58:04 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt

>>>>So, Bella, are those images all Italians?<<<<


Much more specific than that - they are all Venetians - either from Venice itself or from cities under Venetian dominion.  :-)



>>>>Are stripes ever found anywhere outside of Italy?<<<<


I'm not really the right person to answer that - I'm too focused on Venice and the rest of Italy to take much else in. :-) But I will say that I  _cannot remember_  having seen stripes on any non-religious or non-allegorical person in any other SCA region/time frame. That's not saying much though, because my memory doesn't always co-operate. :-)



Bella
The Realm of Venus
http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/

Send instant messages to your online friends http://au.messenger.yahoo.com 
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Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2006 18:01:12 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] corset boning
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Status: RO


     When discussing plastic corset boning, remember there are several
types of plastic available.  There is a "featherboning" that is often
sold with a fabric covering, Wissner that comes in a couple of widths
and thicknesses (and is supposed to be similar to whalebone), and
Rigiline.  Rigiline is actually thick nylon strands woven into a
tape.  At least I think it's nylon!

     They all have different qualities, and it would help to be specific
when discussing how well they work.

     -Carol

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Subject: [h-cost] Help Needed With Suit Extras
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Status: RO

Hi
I have come up against a problem with my proposed Fursuit and the 
"extra" things that I cannot seem to solve with the research that I 
have been doing into it.
I am looking for some help in finding a pattern for the TUNIC  ... in 
the artwork for the suit that I am building. Someone suggested that 
it is similar to 15th Century French Military uniforms, but I have 
not been able to find anything similar while searching through the 
library or the net. Hopefully someone here can give me a pointer to 
something I can use.
Here is a link to the Artwork for the 
suit:  http://www.geocities.com/kliah_ts/Chasseuse.jpg

Thank you,

Kliah Denise



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Status: RO

At 23:00 05/12/2006, you wrote:
>Hi
>I have come up against a problem with my proposed Fursuit and the 
>"extra" things that I cannot seem to solve with the research that I 
>have been doing into it.
>I am looking for some help in finding a pattern for the TUNIC  ... 
>in the artwork for the suit that I am building. Someone suggested 
>that it is similar to 15th Century French Military uniforms, but I 
>have not been able to find anything similar while searching through 
>the library or the net. Hopefully someone here can give me a pointer 
>to something I can use.
>Here is a link to the Artwork for the 
>suit:  http://www.geocities.com/kliah_ts/Chasseuse.jpg


I suggest you Google "19th Century Uniforms". You will find hundreds 
of images, which should help. This is a popular fantasy uniform 
style, and seems to be based on 19th, not 15th century uniform.

Suzi

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
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Status: RO

 But, are the striped hosen woven that way, or are they pieced? I was thinking I had seen an English doublet

somewhere that looked like one of Bella's examples, but I can't find it now. I thought the stripes were 

probably applied ribbon, rather than woven, anyway. 



Those pictures from Germany are a little earlier than my period of interest (1530-1600), so I hadn't seen 

them. They're interesting, though.



So it isn't that they couldn't weave stripes or that they'd never seen them. But why were they so rare?

Does it require a special loom technology to weave stripes? It seems like they are only appearing on 

brocade-type fabrics, but I would have thought you could make stripes on any loom. Were stripes just not 

fashionable for some reason? Or was it the practice in Europe to dye most fabrics after they were woven, 

making stripes impossible? 



Tea Rose, who isn't making an outfit, just being curious.



Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2006 12:52:46 -0600

From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>

Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt

----- Original Message ----- 

From: <tearoses@aol.com>

> Are stripes ever found anywhere outside of Italy?



If you want to crossdress, there are plenty of 15th & early 16thC 

Franco-Flemish & German males wearing stripes!  Especially striped hosen, 

which is an interesting effect.



-E House



Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2006 14:21:54 -0600
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt

Yes, You can find stripes in Germanic men and women's outfits.
Men
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Robert_Campin_001.jpg

women
this one you kind o' miss, the woman in yellow has a brocade [diagonal?]
stripes, monochromatic
http://tinyurl.com/ylxjrk
http://tinyurl.com/yjqfsv

De





   
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From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2006 19:12:03 -0500
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Status: RO

Stripes are easy to weave, no special loom technology required.  
However, most pre-modern dyes were not fast in linen, so if you wove  
a striped linen over time it would fade to being monochrome, plus,  
linen wasn't used for outerwear that much, so why bother wasting dye?  
This leaves mainly wool, and throughout most of history, wool was  
woven with the intent of being fulled, a process that felts the  
fibers together, which would blur and obscure your stripes. And, yes,  
a lot of wool was dyed in the piece, after weaving.

There's also a theory that stripes were not just unfashionable but  
regarded as somewhat unholy during some parts of the middle ages, but  
I've heard experts take both pro and con on whether that was really  
the case, as well as when and where it might have been the case if it  
were. Here's a book about the theory:
http://www.amazon.com/Devils-Cloth-History-Stripes/dp/0743472578/ 
sr=1-9/qid=1165363714/ref=sr_1_9/002-1662157-1188053?ie=UTF8&s=books
_The Devil's Cloth: A History of Stripes_
by Michel Pastoreau, translated by Jody Gladding

Have fun.
Lauren

On Dec 5, 2006, at 6:40 PM, tearoses@aol.com wrote:

>  But, are the striped hosen woven that way, or are they pieced? I  
> was thinking I had seen an English doublet
>
> somewhere that looked like one of Bella's examples, but I can't  
> find it now. I thought the stripes were
>
> probably applied ribbon, rather than woven, anyway.
>
>
>
> Those pictures from Germany are a little earlier than my period of  
> interest (1530-1600), so I hadn't seen
>
> them. They're interesting, though.
>
>
>
> So it isn't that they couldn't weave stripes or that they'd never  
> seen them. But why were they so rare?
>
> Does it require a special loom technology to weave stripes? It  
> seems like they are only appearing on
>
> brocade-type fabrics, but I would have thought you could make  
> stripes on any loom. Were stripes just not
>
> fashionable for some reason? Or was it the practice in Europe to  
> dye most fabrics after they were woven,
>
> making stripes impossible?
>
>
>
> Tea Rose, who isn't making an outfit, just being curious.
>
>
>
> Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2006 12:52:46 -0600
>
> From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: <tearoses@aol.com>
>
>> Are stripes ever found anywhere outside of Italy?
>
>
>
> If you want to crossdress, there are plenty of 15th & early 16thC
>
> Franco-Flemish & German males wearing stripes!  Especially striped  
> hosen,
>
> which is an interesting effect.
>
>
>
> -E House
>
>
>
> Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2006 14:21:54 -0600
> From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
>
> Yes, You can find stripes in Germanic men and women's outfits.
> Men
> http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Robert_Campin_001.jpg
>
> women
> this one you kind o' miss, the woman in yellow has a brocade  
> [diagonal?]
> stripes, monochromatic
> http://tinyurl.com/ylxjrk
> http://tinyurl.com/yjqfsv
>
> De
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________ 
> __
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Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



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From: Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help Needed With Suit Extras
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2006 16:25:46 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

On Dec 5, 2006, at 3:36 PM, Suzi Clarke wrote:
> At 23:00 05/12/2006, you wrote:
>> Hi
>> I have come up against a problem with my proposed Fursuit and the  
>> "extra" things that I cannot seem to solve with the research that  
>> I have been doing into it.
>> I am looking for some help in finding a pattern for the TUNIC  ...  
>> in the artwork for the suit that I am building. Someone suggested  
>> that it is similar to 15th Century French Military uniforms, but I  
>> have not been able to find anything similar while searching  
>> through the library or the net. Hopefully someone here can give me  
>> a pointer to something I can use.
>> Here is a link to the Artwork for the suit:  http:// 
>> www.geocities.com/kliah_ts/Chasseuse.jpg
>
> I suggest you Google "19th Century Uniforms". You will find  
> hundreds of images, which should help. This is a popular fantasy  
> uniform style, and seems to be based on 19th, not 15th century  
> uniform.

Yeah, that jacket isn't 15th century at all. It's just the tights/ 
riding breeches and boots that are misleading.

I'd say late 19th century or even very early 20th century European  
would be a good bet. There's a *lot* of braid and buttons on that  
jacket, and there was a trend in uniform design across Europe that  
started in the mid-19th century and ended with the beginning of WWI  
(and the need for huge quantities of mass-produced uniforms) of  
uniforms getting more and more ornate.

You're going to laugh when I suggest this, but look for modern  
marching band (or drum corps) uniforms. Some are similarly based on  
19th century uniform designs and have the same sort of crazy trim.

-- 
andy trembley, Bitchy Design Queen - http://www.bovil.com/
San Jose, CA - '72 R75/5 '86 R100 (mine) - '92 K75sa '03 R1150R  
(Kevin's)
       "It's not pink, it's peach-colored. Pink is tacky."
                --Manfred Pfirsich Marie Rommel

2nd most important safety device on my bike: the one beneath my right  
hand
Most important safety device on my bike: the one inside my helmet

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Subject: [h-cost] Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII 
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Status: RO

For those awaiting (such as I am) "Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII", 
the publisher has informed me that the release date has been delayed to May 
2007.

Beth

Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII by Maria Hayward. Maney Pub. (). 
Clothbound with full colour dustjacket, ca 384 pages with ca 150 b&w and 30 
colour illustrations. ISBN 1904350704. 
http://www.maney.co.uk/search?fwaction=show&fwid=649

"Henry VIII used his wardrobe, and that of his family and household, as a 
way of expressing his wealth and magnificence. This book will encompass the 
first detailed study of male and female dress worn at the court of Henry 
VIII (1509-47) and will cover the dress of the king and his immediate 
family, the royal household and the broader court circle consisting of the 
nobility and clergy.

Evidence will be drawn primarily from the Great Wardrobe accounts, wardrobe 
warrants, and inventories, and it will be interpreted using evidence from 
narrative sources, paintings, drawings and surviving garments. Key areas 
for consideration will include the cut and construction of garments, 
materials and colours, the function of livery and the hierarchy of dress 
amongst the social elite, and the network of craftsmen and merchants 
working for the court. "

Maria Hayward (FSA, Reader in Textile Conservation, University of 
Southampton, UK) is also Assistant Editor of Costume - Journal of The 
Costume Society  

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
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Status: RO

What about the occasional stripes showing up in the Manesse Codex?
There's also that picture of Beatrice Sforza, and it's clearly striped
(black and white, IIRC).  Okay, so she's Italian, but she wasn't Venetian.
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bella" <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 3:44 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt


>
> >>>>Are stripes ever found anywhere outside of Italy?<<<<
>
>
> I'm not really the right person to answer that - I'm too focused on Venice
and the rest of Italy to take much else in. :-) But I will say that I
_cannot remember_  having seen stripes on any non-religious or
non-allegorical person in any other SCA region/time frame. That's not saying
much though, because my memory doesn't always co-operate. :-)


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Status: RO


I've just come off teaching a class on social distinctions in dress 
1100-1500, and at least in the visual corpus, stripes are usually only 
seen on musicians or servants or people who are in some way social 
inferiors. There's at least one sumptuary law requiring prostitutes to 
wear rayed (striped) cloth*, for instance. [1351 London. Also 1351, in 
Castile, female 'companions' of the clergy required to wear striped 
cloth. That's all I've got in my sumptuary research about stripes.]

In the Sachenspiegel (I know I probably butchered that spelling), a German 
law text of around the 13th century, parti-colour and stripes are used to 
denote the layers of feudalism. The top guy is in green or red, then his 
vassal is in parti-colour solids, then the vassal's vassal is in 
parti-colour one solid and one wide horizontal stripes, and lower than 
that is parti-colour with narrow stripes. [There's another class here 
somewhere about the perils of costume research using visual sources, 
that's next on the list.]

I suspect that the woman in stripes in the third URL that De posted is 
Mary Magdalen, which would go along with the theory of using stripes to 
denote prostitutes.

So we might be running up against an artistic convention regarding the use 
of stripes vs. actual use of stripes in everyday clothing.

Pixel
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] h-cost] What's your dressmaker dummy wearing and
	sewingaffliction 
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Status: RO


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Debloughcostumes@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 7:03 AM
Subject: [h-cost] h-cost] What's your dressmaker dummy wearing and 
sewingaffliction


In a message dated 05/12/2006 19:04:35 GMT Standard Time,
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


>> I've thought about that a lot.  I think I have a severe fear of making 
>> that
>> initial cut into "virgin" fabric.  Anyone else suffer from this?

>completely - with expensive or hard to get fabric.

>imagine what I'll be like in a few weeks with the silk doublet I have to
>make.  the silk's £70+ per metre!!

Oddly enough I get the same reaction to something that was a real bargain, 
it's all about the irreplaceable nature of the fabric, if it's really 
expensive or an incredible bargain because I think if I stuff this up I 
won't be able to afford to replace the fabric, I had those sort of fears 
with a $3 per metre brocade because I thought it's going to be essentially 
impossible to replace (this was heightened by the fact that I was using a 
new pattern and I hadn't really tested it 'in the field', so to speak). If I 
know it's something I'll be able to buy again next time it's in season or 
next time I go to the fabric shop for a similar price (which basically means 
linen, fustian or cotton) I don't have the same reaction. But, because stuff 
usually matures in my fabric stash for at least a few months before I end up 
using it, by the time I get around to using anything that runs in 
fashionable cycles (e.g. brocades) it's gone from the shops never to be seen 
again.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII
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Quoting Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>:

> For those awaiting (such as I am) "Dress at the Court of King Henry
> VIII", the publisher has informed me that the release date has been
> delayed to May 2007.

Do you have any idea about how much it's going to cost?

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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From: Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
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Status: RO

You see what I mean about my memory Sue?! Yes, Beatrice d'Este is a very good example (I think most opinions I've heard say that the stripes are applied in that example, to relate this back to the original question). I have not studied the Manesse Codex and can't speak to that. And yes, she is another Italian example. I'm sure there are more out there, but as I said, anything not 16thc Venetian or Italian is not my forte. :-)
 

Bella


----- Original Message ----
From: Sue Clemenger mooncat@in-tch.com

What about the occasional stripes showing up in the Manesse Codex?
There's also that picture of Beatrice Sforza, and it's clearly striped
(black and white, IIRC).  Okay, so she's Italian, but she wasn't Venetian.
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bella" bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
> >>>>Are stripes ever found anywhere outside of Italy?<<<<
>
>
> I'm not really the right person to answer that - I'm too focused on Venice
and the rest of Italy to take much else in. :-) But I will say that I
_cannot remember_  having seen stripes on any non-religious or
non-allegorical person in any other SCA region/time frame. That's not saying
much though, because my memory doesn't always co-operate. :-)

Send instant messages to your online friends http://au.messenger.yahoo.com 
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I’m gearing up to make a new dress, and was wondering if anybody on here has
made up the 1878 dress from Janet Arnold’s Pattern of Fashion 2. (ha –
rhetorical question – I’m sure somebody has!) I’m got a general idea of what
I want out of the dress, and this seems to be closest to what I want.
However, I want to shorten the skirt and remove the train, and let the main
dress be split up the front to where it starts to button.  I’ll wear an
underskirt underneath it. 

 

Should I break down and buy a Truly Victorian pattern or something else like
that? I’m 5’3” 32-26-35, corseted, and this dress looks a bit big for me.
Not that resizing scares me, it’s just that the design of the pattern looks
harder to get smaller by just fitting it down. 

 

Thanks!

 

 

Quia Christus Perpetuo Regnat, 

Elisabeth

 


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
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Status: RO

There are existing striped Spanish (royal) garments from Museo de Telas 
Medievales. These are a bit earlier that those Italian being discussed 
(some back to the 13C).

See:

Vestiduras ricas : el Monasterio de las Huelgas y su época, 1170-1340 : del 
16 de marzo al 19 de junio de 2005 Madrid: Patrimonio Nacional, [2005]. 293 
p.: 66 colour plates and 71 colour il.; 29x24 cm. paperback ISBN 8471203839

Silk Textiles of Spain: Eighth to Fifteenth Century by Florence May. 
HISPANIC SOCIETY OF AMERICA (1957) Hardcover. 286 pages, 161 illustrations 
in black and white and 6 in full color. ISBN: 1399934503

Museo de Telas Medievales by C. HerreroCarretero. Monasterio de Santa Maria 
la Real de Huelgas, Madrid, 1988. ISBN 8471201275

I have not checked my copy of
Hispanic costume, 1480-1530 by Ruth Matilda Anderson. New York: Hispanic 
Society of America, 1979. x, 293 p. : ill. ; 29 cm. hardcover ISBN 0875351263

to see if they were in later use.

Beth 


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2006 23:15:33 -0600
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Status: RO

Diagonal stripes on a King. Horizontal on a musician
http://tinyurl.com/y5qynw

Various ranks
http://tinyurl.com/y8avx6

A lord
http://tinyurl.com/y3fqet

Young man
http://tinyurl.com/yy3cng

Master
http://tinyurl.com/wzam6

Armourer and apron?
http://www.tempora-nostra.de/tempora-nostra/manesse.php?id=203&tfl=124

Various stripes, master and musicians
http://www.tempora-nostra.de/tempora-nostra/manesse.php?id=203&tfl=130

woodsman?
http://www.tempora-nostra.de/tempora-nostra/manesse.php?id=203&tfl=127

I know there are later period on women's striped garments but I do not have
time right now to search for them.

De

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Cat Dancer
Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 8:57 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt



I've just come off teaching a class on social distinctions in dress
1100-1500, and at least in the visual corpus, stripes are usually only
seen on musicians or servants or people who are in some way social
inferiors. There's at least one sumptuary law requiring prostitutes to
wear rayed (striped) cloth*, for instance. [1351 London. Also 1351, in
Castile, female 'companions' of the clergy required to wear striped
cloth. That's all I've got in my sumptuary research about stripes.]

In the Sachenspiegel (I know I probably butchered that spelling), a German
law text of around the 13th century, parti-colour and stripes are used to
denote the layers of feudalism. The top guy is in green or red, then his
vassal is in parti-colour solids, then the vassal's vassal is in
parti-colour one solid and one wide horizontal stripes, and lower than
that is parti-colour with narrow stripes. [There's another class here
somewhere about the perils of costume research using visual sources,
that's next on the list.]

I suspect that the woman in stripes in the third URL that De posted is
Mary Magdalen, which would go along with the theory of using stripes to
denote prostitutes.

So we might be running up against an artistic convention regarding the use
of stripes vs. actual use of stripes in everyday clothing.

Pixel
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Status: RO

>   I've a question for all corset makers here: which kind of 
> boning (steel or plastic) would you use for a Victorian - 
> style corset (if not a real whalebone)? And generally, what 
> experiences do you have when using steel or plastic boning? 
> Do you mix them as well? 
>   I'd really like to hear some experiences:-))


Here's my 2 cents on this subject:

There are 6 options that I've heard of to replicate whale boning - I've only tried 4, and I've never bothered to mix plastic with metal as my initial experiences with plastic weren't positive.


1) spiral steel boning - this is what I most frequently use for mid-late Victorian. It's the most expensive option (apart from artificial whale bone), and a bit heavy, but it curves wonderfully well. If you're used to Tudor/Elizabethan corsets, this will be a revelation. My favorite corset supply on-line order place is Farthingales (mostly because I'm in northern Ohio, and they're just over the border in Canada so the shipping is very very quick): you can see their spiral boning at http://www.farthingales.on.ca/spiral_bones.php

2) Flat steel boning - I've used this alone for Elizabethan corsets, and mixed in judiciously with spiral steel boning to reduce the cost of Victorian corsets. Also, it allows for no torque, so if you find the spiral bone is twisting in the bone case, I've found that replacing the spiral with flat steel boning helps. You'll want the 1/4 inch for Victorian. Nothing wider. See farthingales for an example of flat steel boning: http://www.farthingales.on.ca/spring_steel_bones.php

3) Cording - this is most appropriate for early Victorian, and is very comfortable, though the most time consuming option to do, and can be hard on fingers/wrists if you have carpel tunnel problems. I have a corset made from the 1870s pattern in Waugh which mixes cording and some spiral and flat boning, and you'd never guess from how ridged it is how little metal is in the corset. Also, the affect of the stuffed cords (even when not decorative in design) is beautiful!

4) plastic strapping, generally used to tie boxes and stuff together at places like Home Depot. I've never tried this, though friends swear by it for Tudor/Elizabethan. I can't guess how well it would work for a curvy Victorian, but it can't be worse then the plastic boning you can buy at Jo-Anns, and it's hard to beat the price.

5) reed boning - I'd only suggest this if you were doing really early Victorian. It doesn't do curvy too well. I made a reasonably comfortable 18th cent. Corset out of it (it breathes very well) but isn't quite strong enough to keep me from trying to bend from the waist. Which cracked the boning. It's still functional as a corset, it just looks a little funny when it's off me, and the sound when I tried to bend was rather startling. I bought my reed from silly sisters: http://www.sillysisters.com/otheritems.htm

6) Fake Whale boning - it's a special type of plastic that's supposed to mimic whale bone. I've never used it. It's somewhat expensive. You can get it from farthingales (http://www.farthingales.on.ca/plastic_bones.php)

Now that I've caught up on the further discussion that happened before I got back to writing this e-mail I don't know if this will be helpful... But it can't hurt :-)
	-sunny




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>   I've a question for all corset makers here: which kind of 
> boning (steel or plastic) would you use for a Victorian - 
> style corset (if not a real whalebone)? And generally, what 
> experiences do you have when using steel or plastic boning? 
> Do you mix them as well? 
>   I'd really like to hear some experiences:-))


Here's my 2 cents on this subject:

There are 6 options that I've heard of to replicate whale boning - I've only tried 4, and I've never bothered to mix plastic with metal as my initial experiences with plastic weren't positive.


1) spiral steel boning - this is what I most frequently use for mid-late Victorian. It's the most expensive option (apart from artificial whale bone), and a bit heavy, but it curves wonderfully well. If you're used to Tudor/Elizabethan corsets, this will be a revelation. My favorite corset supply on-line order place is Farthingales (mostly because I'm in northern Ohio, and they're just over the border in Canada so the shipping is very very quick): you can see their spiral boning at http://www.farthingales.on.ca/spiral_bones.php

2) Flat steel boning - I've used this alone for Elizabethan corsets, and mixed in judiciously with spiral steel boning to reduce the cost of Victorian corsets. Also, it allows for no torque, so if you find the spiral bone is twisting in the bone case, I've found that replacing the spiral with flat steel boning helps. You'll want the 1/4 inch for Victorian. Nothing wider. See farthingales for an example of flat steel boning: http://www.farthingales.on.ca/spring_steel_bones.php

3) Cording - this is most appropriate for early Victorian, and is very comfortable, though the most time consuming option to do, and can be hard on fingers/wrists if you have carpel tunnel problems. I have a corset made from the 1870s pattern in Waugh which mixes cording and some spiral and flat boning, and you'd never guess from how ridged it is how little metal is in the corset. Also, the affect of the stuffed cords (even when not decorative in design) is beautiful!

4) plastic strapping, generally used to tie boxes and stuff together at places like Home Depot. I've never tried this, though friends swear by it for Tudor/Elizabethan. I can't guess how well it would work for a curvy Victorian, but it can't be worse then the plastic boning you can buy at Jo-Anns, and it's hard to beat the price.

5) reed boning - I'd only suggest this if you were doing really early Victorian. It doesn't do curvy too well. I made a reasonably comfortable 18th cent. Corset out of it (it breathes very well) but isn't quite strong enough to keep me from trying to bend from the waist. Which cracked the boning. It's still functional as a corset, it just looks a little funny when it's off me, and the sound when I tried to bend was rather startling. I bought my reed from silly sisters: http://www.sillysisters.com/otheritems.htm

6) Fake Whale boning - it's a special type of plastic that's supposed to mimic whale bone. I've never used it. It's somewhat expensive. You can get it from farthingales (http://www.farthingales.on.ca/plastic_bones.php)

Now that I've caught up on the further discussion that happened before I got back to writing this e-mail I don't know if this will be helpful... But it can't hurt :-)
	-sunny




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] h-cost] What's your dressmaker dummy wearing and
	sewing 	affliction
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At 3:03 PM -0500 12/5/06, Debloughcostumes@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 05/12/2006 19:04:35 GMT Standard Time,
>h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
>
>
>>  I've thought about that a lot.  I think I have a severe fear of making that
>>  initial cut into "virgin" fabric.  Anyone else suffer from this?
>
>completely - with expensive or hard to get fabric.

I once shared a house with a friend who made her living as a 
seamstress. She said she got a lot of business from brides who 
started out intending to make their own dresses, but chickened out 
when it came to cutting the expensive fabric...
-- 
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> - Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] h-cost] What's your dressmaker dummy wearing and sewing
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Status: RO

On Tuesday 05 December 2006 9:56 pm, Chris Laning wrote:
> At 3:03 PM -0500 12/5/06, Debloughcostumes@aol.com wrote:
> >In a message dated 05/12/2006 19:04:35 GMT Standard Time,
> >
> >h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
> >>  I've thought about that a lot.  I think I have a severe fear of making
> >> that initial cut into "virgin" fabric.  Anyone else suffer from this?
> >
> >completely - with expensive or hard to get fabric.
>
> I once shared a house with a friend who made her living as a
> seamstress. She said she got a lot of business from brides who
> started out intending to make their own dresses, but chickened out
> when it came to cutting the expensive fabric...

I believe it.  Though I tend to be squeamish about making the first cuts, even 
if I'm using budget fabric.  Guess it's just the irrevocability of the act; 
you can't really "uncut" fabric.  :-)

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost


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In a message dated 06/12/2006 03:25:58 GMT Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> I use to have that problem big time, but now, the more I use such fabrics,
> the less I am intimidated by them.

oh I wish that would happen with me.

over a decade of making stuff from expensive fabric (more than half of that 
full time) and I STILL have to mentally prepare myself!!
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From: Deredere Galbraith <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] corset boning
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	<4575EF5E.3090505@lavoltapress.com>
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Status: RO

Maybe you could use the man's corset pattern from Laughing moon
http://www.lafnmoon.com/113_underbust_corset.html

One of the mistakes a lot of travesties make is that they use to much 
makeup.
And colors that are too hard.

Greetings,
       Deredere

Lavolta Press wrote:
> If it as a modern woman, a Victorian corset is not the thing.
>
> Speaking as a resident of San Francisco, I can say that the things 
> that really give away a transvestite are the size and shape of the 
> hands and wrists, the size of the shoulders, and often the shape of 
> the jaw.
>
> Fran
>
>> I haven't picked out any exact pattern or image, I don't know exactly 
>> how the corset is going to look like yet. The basic idea is of a 
>> corset without gussets (or with as little as possible), with rather 
>> vertical seams.   I got a very special (and very funny, too) order 
>> from a man who bet with someone that he would live and behave like a 
>> woman for two days, which includes, of course, him being dressed as a 
>> lady. 
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Status: RO

I am not sure of the split skirt for this time...
You might get a copy of Fran Gimble's fashions for the Gilded Age.  It has a 
great deal of info and pattern shapes suitable for the period and the cost 
for the book is comparable to the pattern you are contemplating. Your size 
seems to be of the ordinary so that you could use any fitted bodice and/or 
skirt and duplicate any of the shapes in this book. I have used it a lot 
with some pleasant success.

Kathleen



From: "Elisabeth Doornink" <missdoornink@gmail.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 10:47 PM
Subject: [h-cost] (no subject)


I’m gearing up to make a new dress, and was wondering if anybody on here has
made up the 1878 dress from Janet Arnold’s Pattern of Fashion 2. (ha –
rhetorical question – I’m sure somebody has!) I’m got a general idea of what
I want out of the dress, and this seems to be closest to what I want.
However, I want to shorten the skirt and remove the train, and let the main
dress be split up the front to where it starts to button.  I’ll wear an
underskirt underneath it.



Should I break down and buy a Truly Victorian pattern or something else like
that? I’m 5’3” 32-26-35, corseted, and this dress looks a bit big for me.
Not that resizing scares me, it’s just that the design of the pattern looks
harder to get smaller by just fitting it down.



Thanks!





Quia Christus Perpetuo Regnat,

Elisabeth




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Ha! - switched computers and aol STILL isn't listening half the time when I 
change the title - sorry
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Subject: Re: RE: [h-cost] corset boning
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Status: RO

In a message dated 06/12/2006 13:38:52 GMT Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> My favorite corset supply on-line order place is Farthingales (mostly 
> because I'm in northern Ohio, and they're just over the border in Canada so the 
> shipping is very very quick): you can see their spiral boning at 
> http://www.farthingales.on.ca/spiral_bones.php

and I'm in the UK, and have used farthingales many times - they're fabulous, 
and v quick.

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From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] h-cost] What's your dressmaker dummy wearing and
	sewingaffliction
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Status: RO

I have this beautiful piece of silk taffeta plaid, that I need to make
a sash and overskirt for my 1860s gown for _this_ Saturday and I am
worried about cutting into it and screwing up.  The silk was a
remnant, so it was inexpensive, but it has the right shades for my
hard to match pink gown.  I cut much more happily and confidently when
I have 15 yards and only need 10.  For this I have just enough (I
hope).  To get more of this I'll probably have to pay $50+ a yard if I
can find it at all.....

I did find the most wonderful tasseled trim (at retail unfortunately),
a passementerie tassel fringe to compliment the plaid and the original
dress, $50 a yard but I only needed 1/4 yard for enough tassels.  I
just hope they don't get impossibly tangled while dancing.

I do hope I can get it done in time.  I've started a page for it here:

http://www.vintagevictorian.com/1860_pink_plaid.html

Katy

Katy

On 12/5/06, Elizabeth Walpole <ewalpole@tpg.com.au> wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Debloughcostumes@aol.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 7:03 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] h-cost] What's your dressmaker dummy wearing and
> sewingaffliction
>
>
> In a message dated 05/12/2006 19:04:35 GMT Standard Time,
> h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
>
>
> >> I've thought about that a lot.  I think I have a severe fear of making
> >> that
> >> initial cut into "virgin" fabric.  Anyone else suffer from this?
>
> >completely - with expensive or hard to get fabric.
>
> >imagine what I'll be like in a few weeks with the silk doublet I have to
> >make.  the silk's £70+ per metre!!
>
> Oddly enough I get the same reaction to something that was a real bargain,
> it's all about the irreplaceable nature of the fabric, if it's really
> expensive or an incredible bargain because I think if I stuff this up I
> won't be able to afford to replace the fabric, I had those sort of fears
> with a $3 per metre brocade because I thought it's going to be essentially
> impossible to replace (this was heightened by the fact that I was using a
> new pattern and I hadn't really tested it 'in the field', so to speak). If I
> know it's something I'll be able to buy again next time it's in season or
> next time I go to the fabric shop for a similar price (which basically means
> linen, fustian or cotton) I don't have the same reaction. But, because stuff
> usually matures in my fabric stash for at least a few months before I end up
> using it, by the time I get around to using anything that runs in
> fashionable cycles (e.g. brocades) it's gone from the shops never to be seen
> again.
> Elizabeth
> --------------------------------------------
> Elizabeth Walpole
> Canberra Australia
> ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
> http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Status: RO

> I'm gearing up to make a new dress, and was wondering if 
> anybody on here has made up the 1878 dress from Janet 
> Arnold's Pattern of Fashion 2. (ha - rhetorical question - 
> I'm sure somebody has!) I'm got a general idea of what I want 
> out of the dress, and this seems to be closest to what I want.
> However, I want to shorten the skirt and remove the train, 
> and let the main dress be split up the front to where it 
> starts to button.  I'll wear an underskirt underneath it. 
> 
> Should I break down and buy a Truly Victorian pattern or 
> something else like that? I'm 5'3" 32-26-35, corseted, and 
> this dress looks a bit big for me.
> Not that resizing scares me, it's just that the design of the 
> pattern looks harder to get smaller by just fitting it down. 

I have not made the 1878 Janet Arnold dress, but I recently made a variation on the 1870-1 one... And I did find it easier/faster to start from the Truly Victorian patterns and alter from there... They didn't have a peplum, so that required lots of fussing, but starting with a skirt and bodice that fit me and then altering them to the peculiarities of the dress Arnold documented was easier for me then trying to scale up the pattern to my size. Also, Victorian bodices are generally pretty standard in their cut - mid-late bodices almost always have 2 darts to fit the waist and bosom to either side of CF, a center back funky shaped piece and either a center front or center back opening (from my perusal of vintage fashions center front is more common, but if you look at fashion plates and high fashion center back seems equally common). 

Now that I look at the 1878 dress, I don't think it would be easier to start from a Truly Victorian pattern - their princess style dress (the 1882 tea gown http://trulyvictorian.netfirms.com/catalog/432.html) does not have the horizontal side-waist dart, nor the bustled back option, nor does the back have a large dart but is actually made of separate pieces. That said, the princess style tea gown goes together very easily/quickly - even if you're fitting yourself in the mirror rather then having a friend fit you :-) From your description, the way the TV pattern looks may be closer to what you want then the Arnold pattern.
	-sunny



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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII
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Status: RO

They have told me that the price has not been set yet.  Hopefully, they 
will realize that there is quite a market if the price is reasonable.

Beth

At 07:36 AM 12/6/2006, you wrote:
>Date: Tue, 05 Dec 2006 22:29:10 -0500
>From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
>
>Quoting Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>:
>
> > For those awaiting (such as I am) "Dress at the Court of King Henry
> > VIII", the publisher has informed me that the release date has been
> > delayed to May 2007.
>
>Do you have any idea about how much it's going to cost?
>
>susan

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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20061206033849.5919.qmail@web31503.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 08:38:08 -0700
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Status: RO

Applied? Really? I hadn't ever thought of that as an option--figured it was
either woven in, or fabric sewn in strips, like the later one of Lucretia?
(green/gold with stripes of varying widths), which is definitely religious.
I wonder if it was a regional style or something....
--Sue, who thinks maybe her memory is out partying somewhere with Bella's,
'cuz it's certainly not here at home where she can use it!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bella" <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 8:38 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt


> You see what I mean about my memory Sue?! Yes, Beatrice d'Este is a very
good example (I think most opinions I've heard say that the stripes are
applied in that example, to relate this back to the original question). I
have not studied the Manesse Codex and can't speak to that. And yes, she is
another Italian example. I'm sure there are more out there, but as I said,
anything not 16thc Venetian or Italian is not my forte. :-)
>
>
> Bella
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Sue Clemenger mooncat@in-tch.com
>
> What about the occasional stripes showing up in the Manesse Codex?
> There's also that picture of Beatrice Sforza, and it's clearly striped
> (black and white, IIRC).  Okay, so she's Italian, but she wasn't Venetian.
> --Sue
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bella" bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
> > >>>>Are stripes ever found anywhere outside of Italy?<<<<
> >
> >
> > I'm not really the right person to answer that - I'm too focused on
Venice
> and the rest of Italy to take much else in. :-) But I will say that I
> _cannot remember_  having seen stripes on any non-religious or
> non-allegorical person in any other SCA region/time frame. That's not
saying
> much though, because my memory doesn't always co-operate. :-)
>
> Send instant messages to your online friends http://au.messenger.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
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From: Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemerova@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RE: [h-cost] corset boning
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Status: RO

I like Vena cava design - I can actually order only from the UK companies, as the American or Canadian have too expensive shipping to Europe. I think VC design have everything necessary, including the spiral steel bones or many sorts of plastic and steel boning. 

Debloughcostumes@aol.com wrote:  In a message dated 06/12/2006 13:38:52 GMT Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> My favorite corset supply on-line order place is Farthingales (mostly 
> because I'm in northern Ohio, and they're just over the border in Canada so the 
> shipping is very very quick): you can see their spiral boning at 
> http://www.farthingales.on.ca/spiral_bones.php

and I'm in the UK, and have used farthingales many times - they're fabulous, 
and v quick.

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I'm sorry for pointing this out, but it tickled my funny bone. Some transvestites really are a fashion travesty.... 

:-D

Kathy

>One of the mistakes a lot of travesties make is that they use to much 
>makeup.
>And colors that are too hard.


Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert
(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules.

It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131








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Quoting Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>:

> They have told me that the price has not been set yet.  Hopefully, they
> will realize that there is quite a market if the price is reasonable.

One can hope that they'll examine the sales of the Tudor Tailor .....

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Date: Wed, 06 Dec 2006 09:32:41 -0800
From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] corset boning
References: <948047.25160.qm@web37503.mail.mud.yahoo.com>	<4575EF5E.3090505@lavoltapress.com>
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Status: RO

There seem to be a couple ways to wear drag.  One is as a serious 
attempt by a male to look like a female; the other is camp, or 
essentially a costume joke.  I still remember the team of (all genuine) 
ex-Marines in miniskirts who had an act goose-stepping balletically 
together down Market Street.  Then there was the nun group, the Sisters 
of Perpetual Indulgence.  (Of course, there was, on the other end, the 
guy who wore a pair of chaps, some sort of footwear which I forget, and 
nothing else.) So in some cases the excessive makeup is not meant to be 
convincing.  I used to see guys in low-cut evening gowns in the Castro 
who didn't even shave off their beards or their chest hair.

However, to judge from same, the primary ticket to a modern female 
figure is to get a bust. Those guys looked like they were wearing padded 
push-up bras, possibly the same kind the woman who feels underendowed 
buys at a department store.

I'm hardly an expert; there must be tons of websites and egroups that 
give tips on how to wear drag, convincing or otherwise.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Deredere Galbraith wrote:

> 
> One of the mistakes a lot of travesties make is that they use to much 
> makeup.
> And colors that are too hard.
> 
> Greetings,
>       Deredere
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From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
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Status: RO

Deredere Galbraith wrote:


> One of the mistakes a lot of travesties make is that they use to  
> much makeup.
> And colors that are too hard.
> Greetings,
>       Deredere


I hope I am not being dense about a deliberate pun, but I think we  
are talking about "transvestites" here, not "travesties". Though of  
course camp is itself something of a good-natured sort of travesty.
Best,
Lauren
Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



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Status: RO

Cindy,

I included the link in my original post. Sometimes things don't go through, 
so here it is again:  http://www.maney.co.uk/search?fwaction=show&fwid=649

Beth

At 11:33 AM 12/6/2006, you wrote:
>Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 09:08:54 -0600
>From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
>
>Who is the publisher? If they have a website, we can check for
>publication date and price as the publication date nears. This would be
>a dream book for me if the price isn't too high.
>
>Cindy Abel

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Status: RO

Living in a rural area, one of things that I do not have access to are back 
issues of certain journals. If any of you have back issues of the following 
that they would like to sell, please contact me.

1) Costume: Journal of the Costume Society
2) Textile History
3) Archaeological Textiles Newsletter

It would be much appreciated.

Beth  

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Date: Wed, 06 Dec 2006 10:25:57 -0800
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] corset boning
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Status: RO

The thing is--the modern costuming community is subject to trends and 
fads.  Plastic corset boning isn't currently trendy, though almost any 
other kind is. It is, however, incorrect to assume that a corset needs 
bones like something you'd use to support the Golden Gate Bridge.  The 
period way to get more rigidity is to put more bones in, closer 
together. However, whalehone, like plastic, adapts to the body shape 
over time; and I have some old  instructions about turning the bones 
over when that happens.

Fran


Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:

> I like Vena cava design - I can actually order only from the UK companies, as the American or Canadian have too expensive shipping to Europe. I think VC design have everything necessary, including the spiral steel bones or many sorts of plastic and steel boning. 
> 
> Debloughcostumes@aol.com wrote:  In a message dated 06/12/2006 13:38:52 GMT Standard Time, 
> h-costume-request@indra.com writes:

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A visit from your English major
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Status: RO

In English, the words "travesty" and "transvestite" are closely related. 
In older theatrical performances (Baroque, I know for sure; I haven't 
traced the whole history of the word), a travesty is a performance where 
the performers dress as members of the opposite gender.  King Louis XIV, 
for example, is famous for performing the role of a washerwoman, in, if 
I recall correctly, the same ballet where he performed the role of 
Apollo, the Sun King.

Fran

Deredere Galbraith wrote:

> OOps :-[
> English is not my native language.
> So I hope I didn't offended anyone because it was certainly not my 
> intention.
> In Dutch it is called a "travestiet"
> Didn't know that you write it different in English.
> :-)
> Greetings,
>       Deredere
> 
> Lauren Walker wrote:
> 
>> Deredere Galbraith wrote:
>>
>>
>>> One of the mistakes a lot of travesties make is that they use to much 
>>> makeup.
>>> And colors that are too hard.
>>> Greetings,
>>>       Deredere
>>
>>
>>
>> I hope I am not being dense about a deliberate pun, but I think we are 
>> talking about "transvestites" here, not "travesties". Though of course 
>> camp is itself something of a good-natured sort of travesty.
>> Best,
>> Lauren
>> Lauren M. Walker
>> lauren.walker@comcast.net
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A visit from your English major
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Status: RO

I could send pages and pages of the same sort of error made by native  
English speakers (alas, my COLLEGE students!), and many of them, like  
this one, are wonderfully funny (and sometimes weirdly appropriate).
Here's one, from an essay about a man who took broken stained-glass  
windows from mausoleums: "As a gesture of good faith Casamassima  
brought Christmas wreaths and placed them over every Moslem he stole  
from."
Another student described a patient in a coma as being in a  
"vegetarian state."
One said some guidelines proposed by the Air Force Academy would  
still "allow non-secretarial prayer at certain ceremonies."
And, for us costumers, one student mentioned that "Madame Trousseau's  
Waxed Museum" was an interesting place to visit.
So, Deredere, thank you for a much-needed moment of pleasure, and  
congratulations on writing English like a native! ; }
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Dec 6, 2006, at 1:18 PM, Deredere Galbraith wrote:

> OOps :-[
> English is not my native language.
> So I hope I didn't offended anyone because it was certainly not my  
> intention.
> In Dutch it is called a "travestiet"
> Didn't know that you write it different in English.
> :-)
> Greetings,
>       Deredere
>
> Lauren Walker wrote:
>> Deredere Galbraith wrote:
>>
>>
>>> One of the mistakes a lot of travesties make is that they use to  
>>> much makeup.
>>> And colors that are too hard.
>>> Greetings,
>>>       Deredere
>>
>>
>> I hope I am not being dense about a deliberate pun, but I think we  
>> are talking about "transvestites" here, not "travesties". Though  
>> of course camp is itself something of a good-natured sort of  
>> travesty.
>> Best,
>> Lauren
>> Lauren M. Walker
>> lauren.walker@comcast.net
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Status: RO

 
In a message dated 12/6/2006 1:45:40 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

a  travesty is a performance where 
the performers dress as members of the  opposite gender.  King Louis XIV, 
for example, is famous for  performing the role of a washerwoman, in, if 
I recall correctly, the same  ballet where he performed the role of 
Apollo, the Sun  King.



**************
 
The Opera National de Paris has some wonderful versions of Rameau operas  [on 
DVD] they've been reviving. These were written in the mid 1700s. They  all 
have a travesty role...a man in a woman's role. Usually a supernatural  being. 
My fave is Bellona, the goddess of war, from "Les Indes Gallantes".
In "Platee", the title character, Platee, is a swamp nymph resembling a  frog 
who thinks she's beautiful. It is a "role a travesty".
 
These are great shows! Check them out!
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From: Deredere Galbraith <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A visit from your English major
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Status: RO

OOps :-[
English is not my native language.
So I hope I didn't offended anyone because it was certainly not my 
intention.
In Dutch it is called a "travestiet"
Didn't know that you write it different in English.
:-)
Greetings,
       Deredere

Lauren Walker wrote:
> Deredere Galbraith wrote:
>
>
>> One of the mistakes a lot of travesties make is that they use to much 
>> makeup.
>> And colors that are too hard.
>> Greetings,
>>       Deredere
>
>
> I hope I am not being dense about a deliberate pun, but I think we are 
> talking about "transvestites" here, not "travesties". Though of course 
> camp is itself something of a good-natured sort of travesty.
> Best,
> Lauren
> Lauren M. Walker
> lauren.walker@comcast.net
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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Status: RO

Not offended at all! Some of us native English speakers assumed it was a
pun--a play on words, exploring the similar spellings/sounds and different
meanings between the two words "transvestite" and "travesty."
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deredere Galbraith" <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 11:18 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A visit from your English major


> OOps :-[
> English is not my native language.
> So I hope I didn't offended anyone because it was certainly not my
> intention.
> In Dutch it is called a "travestiet"
> Didn't know that you write it different in English.
> :-)
> Greetings,
>        Deredere
>
> Lauren Walker wrote:
> > Deredere Galbraith wrote:
> >
> >
> >> One of the mistakes a lot of travesties make is that they use to much
> >> makeup.
> >> And colors that are too hard.
> >> Greetings,
> >>       Deredere
> >
> >
> > I hope I am not being dense about a deliberate pun, but I think we are
> > talking about "transvestites" here, not "travesties". Though of course
> > camp is itself something of a good-natured sort of travesty.
> > Best,
> > Lauren
> > Lauren M. Walker


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Status: RO

Hi,
Does any of you know any news about the last Arnold Book wich was supposed 
to be published?
I am awaiting it impatiently

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Status: RO

If you're talking about the shirts book, I kind of do.

It's still hung up in legal issues - estate, copyright, permissions... the typical yadda yadda for publishing a book of this nature. It happens that my research crosses over hers, a couple of the shirts in the Met collection are included in this book. But because hers is far more diverse, the chances of my publishing first are greater than her estate beating me to it. 

I am to understand her estate has enough material to publish 4 more books. It's just a matter of sifting through it all and assembling it appropriately.

Kathy 

Hi,
Does any of you know any news about the last Arnold Book wich was supposed 
to be published?
I am awaiting it impatiently

Bjarne 
Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert
(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules.

It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131



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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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Status: RO

Who is the publisher? If they have a website, we can check for
publication date and price as the publication date nears. This would be
a dream book for me if the price isn't too high.

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Susan B. Farmer
Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 9:29 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII

Quoting Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>:

> For those awaiting (such as I am) "Dress at the Court of King Henry
> VIII", the publisher has informed me that the release date has been
> delayed to May 2007.

Do you have any idea about how much it's going to cost?

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A visit from your English major
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Ha, thanks to all of the contributions to this post.  I am laughing even more now than I was when I read the original.  Very cool info that we would not have had shared if a *mistake* had not been made.
 
:)
 
~Kimberley (who really, really needed at least something to smile about today!)
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: ruthanneb@mindspring.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
Sent: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 1:49 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A visit from your English major


I could send pages and pages of the same sort of error made by native English speakers (alas, my COLLEGE students!), and many of them, like this one, are wonderfully funny (and sometimes weirdly appropriate). 
Here's one, from an essay about a man who took broken stained-glass windows from mausoleums: "As a gesture of good faith Casamassima brought Christmas wreaths and placed them over every Moslem he stole from." 
Another student described a patient in a coma as being in a "vegetarian state." 
One said some guidelines proposed by the Air Force Academy would still "allow non-secretarial prayer at certain ceremonies." 
And, for us costumers, one student mentioned that "Madame Trousseau's Waxed Museum" was an interesting place to visit. 
So, Deredere, thank you for a much-needed moment of pleasure, and congratulations on writing English like a native! ; } 
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner 
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer 
 
On Dec 6, 2006, at 1:18 PM, Deredere Galbraith wrote: 
 
> OOps :-[ 
> English is not my native language. 
> So I hope I didn't offended anyone because it was certainly not my > intention. 
> In Dutch it is called a "travestiet" 
> Didn't know that you write it different in English. 
> :-) 
> Greetings, 
> Deredere 
> 
> Lauren Walker wrote: 
>> Deredere Galbraith wrote: 
>> 
>> 
>>> One of the mistakes a lot of travesties make is that they use to >>> much makeup. 
>>> And colors that are too hard. 
>>> Greetings, 
>>> Deredere 
>> 
>> 
>> I hope I am not being dense about a deliberate pun, but I think we >> are talking about "transvestites" here, not "travesties". Though >> of course camp is itself something of a good-natured sort of >> travesty. 
>> Best, 
>> Lauren 
>> Lauren M. Walker 
>> lauren.walker@comcast.net 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________ 
>> h-costume mailing list 
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
>> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
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> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
 
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
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On Wed, 6 Dec 2006, Cat Dancer wrote:

> The Castilian law specifies types of cloth (which I will have to look
> up when I get home) but the London law just says 'rayed cloth'. [I
> highly recommend /Governance of the consuming passions : a history of
> sumptuary law/ by Alan Hunt, if you want to dig deeper.] The rayed
> cloth of the London law is probably woven-in stripes, stripes being
> what you, the weaver, do if you have leftover yarns but not enough of
> any one color to do anything useful with. I want to say that cloth
> woven of dyed wool is going to be cheaper than cloth that is woven and
> then dyed, but I don't have enough knowledge of the medieval textile
> industry to be saying that.  [Here is where someone who does, steps in
> and corrects me. ;-)] Certainly the comments in the inventories and
> accounts are specific that rayed cloth is for the members of the
> household fairly far down on the social scale--the valets and such.

I've just finished editing an article by John Munro that will appear in
the next volume of Medieval Clothing & Textiles (vol. 3, to be released in
spring 2007). He is discussing color trends in Flemish woollens from
1300-1550, based on a variety of accounts, mostly purchases of woollens
for city officials in Bruges and Mechelen. His focus is not specifically
on rayed cloth, but he discusses their appearance along with many other
types of cloth. Among the points he makes is that some scarlets (the most
valuable, expensive woolens) were rayed, and their price was equivalent to
other scarlets (indicating they were considered of equal value to solid
cloths). The bulk of the article describes shifts in color preferences in
the 14th and 15th centuries, and he notes that the introduction of cheaper
heavyweight woollens (I'm summarizing a lot here) in the late 14th
century, combined with a fashionable shift away from multicolored cloths
in general, accounts for the disappearance of rayed cloths from the
purchases for the highest echelons of Bruges city officials in the 1380s;
even so, in Ghent, where local industry specialized in striped woollens
(including expensive striped scarlets), these striped cloths continue to
appear in local accounts well into the 16th century.

It's much more complicated than that, but the take-home points for our
purposes is that stripes were clearly being worn at the top levels for
some of this period, and that the fashions were different even from city
to city, in part as a reflection of industrial and economic factors. In
other words, there's a huge amount of variability in the use (and class
significance) of stripes from one time and place to another.

A side note: Given that the high-end Ghent industry specialized in rayed
clothes, including rayed scarlets, that suggests that rayed clothes were
deliberately woven that way, not just made from leftover wools, at least
in that time and place.

As to the economics and mechanics of weaving wool before or after dyeing:  
this is touched on both in Munro's article and in another in the volume
(the latter being a paper by John Oldland on wool finishing methods for
the same period). Apparently one consideration was the specific colors
being used, as mordanted dyes made for more trouble in the weaving
process, so weaving was typically done with undyed wools or wools dyed in
woad, which did not require mordants. Not true everywhere, of course.

> What we've found, in going over some amazingly huge number of
> illuminations, frescos, panel paintings, book illustrations, etc., is
> that when someone is portrayed in stripes and/or parti-colour, that
> person is somehow a social inferior to at least one of the other
> people in the artwork. So we see stripes (and sometimes plaids) on
> musicians and on the people that my consort refers to as
> "minions"--the various servants, lackeys, etc. that tend to hang
> around important people in the art.

Clearly we need to remember that symbolic conventions in visual art don't
always reflect reality!

> Except in the Manesse Codex, where I suspect that stripes indicate
> someone who is a fop or otherwise on the edge of fashion. Note that
> that's only a hypothesis--it hasn't made it to theory yet. ;-)

Aren't many of the "heroes" profiled in the Manesse Codes supposed to be
warrior-troubadours or troubadour-kings? The stripes may be used here to
indicate which ones are the musicians (in addition to whatever else they
may be).

--Robin

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Status: RO



You can do it, Katy--I've seen what you can sew.  :)

I look forward to seeing the pictures when you are
done.

And the Strawberry Moose is twisted.

Ann in CT

--- Katy Bishop <katybishop64@gmail.com> wrote:

> I have this beautiful piece of silk taffeta plaid,
> that I need to make
> a sash and overskirt for my 1860s gown for _this_
> Saturday and I am
> worried about cutting into it and screwing up.  The
> silk was a
> remnant, so it was inexpensive, but it has the right
> shades for my
> hard to match pink gown.  I cut much more happily
> and confidently when
> I have 15 yards and only need 10.  For this I have
> just enough.
> 
> I do hope I can get it done in time.  I've started a
> page for it here:
> 
> http://www.vintagevictorian.com/1860_pink_plaid.html
> 
> Katy



 
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Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 11:39:47 -0800
From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A visit from your English major
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Status: RO

That was a brilliant bi-lingual pun.  It's only a pity the rest of us
had to have it explained and thereby missed the essense of your wit.
Brava!
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com



> OOps :-[
> English is not my native language.
> So I hope I didn't offended anyone because it was certainly not my
> intention.
> In Dutch it is called a "travestiet"
> Didn't know that you write it different in English.
> :-)
> Greetings,
>       Deredere
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] corset boning
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Status: RO

"However, whalehone, like plastic, adapts to the body shape 
over time; and I have some old  instructions about turning the bones 
over when that happens."

That's why I thought about combinating plastic and metal. At least for the back and the front of the corset I'd use something like spring steel and for the rest either plastic or spiral steel. I don't have any experiences with spiral steel boning, so I don't know which one (spiral steel or plastic) will be better for my purpose. The spiral steel is probably good for very curvy seams, but I think a man's figure will never get very curvy, so I don't know whether that would be necessary. What do you think?
 
---------------------------------
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Janet Arnold
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Status: RO

At 18:58 06/12/2006, you wrote:
>If you're talking about the shirts book, I kind of do. It's still 
>hung up in legal issues - estate, copyright, permissions... the 
>typical yadda yadda for publishing a book of this nature. It happens 
>that my research crosses over hers, a couple of the shirts in the 
>Met collection are included in this book. But because hers is far 
>more diverse, the chances of my publishing first are greater than 
>her estate beating me to it. I am to understand her estate has 
>enough material to publish 4 more books. It's just a matter of 
>sifting through it all and assembling it appropriately. Kathy



>hi, Does any of you know any news about the last Arnold Book wich 
>was supposed to be published? I am awaiting it impatiently Bjarne


The last I heard, the completion of the book(s) had been handed over 
from the original literary executors to another person. This, of 
course, will have caused a delay, not counting the time lost 
immediately after her death. She told me, only a few weeks before she 
died, that she had completed the fourth draft of the first book. 
Unfortunately it never occurred to me to ask which she meant by the 
"first" book. I know she was planning the shirts/ruffs/supportasses 
book as one unit, and the "other" one, I understood, was to have 
included more men's costumes.

Suzi

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Status: RO

 Ooo, a whole book about it! Thanks! 



Pixel, is there any way of knowing if the sumptuary laws meant woven-in stripes, applied stripes or pieced stripes? 

That painting with Mary Magdalen looked like they might be applied. 



Thanks to everyone who responded! I love this kind of conversation with you guys!



Tea Rose


Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2006 19:12:03 -0500
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>

Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt



Here's a book about the theory:

http://www.amazon.com/Devils-Cloth-History-Stripes/dp/0743472578/ 

sr=1-9/qid=1165363714/ref=sr_1_9/002-1662157-1188053?ie=UTF8&s=books

_The Devil's Cloth: A History of Stripes_

by Michel Pastoreau, translated by Jody Gladding



Have fun.

Lauren


---------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2006 20:56:37 -0600 (CST)

From: Cat Dancer <pixel@hundred-acre-wood.com>

Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt



I've just come off teaching a class on social distinctions in dress 

1100-1500, and at least in the visual corpus, stripes are usually only 

seen on musicians or servants or people who are in some way social 

inferiors. There's at least one sumptuary law requiring prostitutes to 

wear rayed (striped) cloth*, for instance. [1351 London. Also 1351, in 

Castile, female 'companions' of the clergy required to wear striped 

cloth. That's all I've got in my sumptuary research about stripes.]



Pixel






   
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Janet Arnold
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Status: RO

> At 18:58 06/12/2006, you wrote:
>>If you're talking about the shirts book, I kind of do. It's still hung up 
>>in legal issues - estate, copyright, permissions... the typical yadda 
>>yadda for publishing a book of this nature. It happens that my research 
>>crosses over hers, a couple of the shirts in the Met collection are 
>>included in this book. But because hers is far more diverse, the chances 
>>of my publishing first are greater than her estate beating me to it. I am 
>>to understand her estate has enough material to publish 4 more books. It's 
>>just a matter of sifting through it all and assembling it appropriately. 
>>Kathy
>
>
>
>>hi, Does any of you know any news about the last Arnold Book wich was 
>>supposed to be published? I am awaiting it impatiently Bjarne
>
>
> The last I heard, the completion of the book(s) had been handed over from 
> the original literary executors to another person. This, of course, will 
> have caused a delay, not counting the time lost immediately after her 
> death. She told me, only a few weeks before she died, that she had 
> completed the fourth draft of the first book. Unfortunately it never 
> occurred to me to ask which she meant by the "first" book. I know she was 
> planning the shirts/ruffs/supportasses book as one unit, and the "other" 
> one, I understood, was to have included more men's costumes.
>
> Suzi

I had heard something about one of them being the "missing" book for the 
period between 1620 and 1660.  Do any of you know anything about that?

Melusine 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] corset boning
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Status: RO

> "However, whalehone, like plastic, adapts to the body shape
> over time; and I have some old  instructions about turning the bones
> over when that happens."

Firstly thanks to Fran for bring this up. It's been told tiem and time again
to communities where there is a negative attitude to plastic boning. In fact
at one stage weren't there commercial steamers to make the baleen form into
curves before the corset was even worn?

And though t's been cut off, yes you need to treat the plastic as if it is
baleen. SO when you look at extant 18thC corsets and see just how solidly
boned they are, or when you look at 19thC corsets and the number of steel
and baeleen strips used you start to get a feel for how to use the plastic
without it warping too much. Even if it did happen anyway;)

<<That's why I thought about combinating plastic and metal. At least for the
back and the front of the corset I'd use something like spring steel and for
the rest either plastic or spiral steel.>>

Yes! This is what I have done for my 1880s corset. I am very curvy, not very
overweight but my waist laces down very far, so the plastic is perfect for
getting into the sides of the waist to produce the hourglass effect. But
they do need some support in the form of the materials and fit of the corset
in the first place and I also find a steel down he centre fronts and centre
backs to support the lacing and create vertical tension which helps support
the plastic.

Michaela de Bruce

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Status: RO

On Wed, 6 Dec 2006 tearoses@aol.com wrote:

> Ooo, a whole book about it! Thanks!

I don't remember where I found my copy. It's a fascinating book even if 
some of his theories are off-the-wall. :-) The one thing it did do was to 
get us to look critically at portrayals and look for themes and such.

>
> Pixel, is there any way of knowing if the sumptuary laws meant woven-in stripes, applied stripes or pieced stripes?
>
> That painting with Mary Magdalen looked like they might be applied.

The Castilian law specifies types of cloth (which I will have to look up 
when I get home) but the London law just says 'rayed cloth'. [I highly 
recommend /Governance of the consuming passions : a history of sumptuary 
law/ by Alan Hunt, if you want to dig deeper.] The rayed cloth of the 
London law is probably woven-in stripes, stripes being what you, the 
weaver, do if you have leftover yarns but not enough of any one color to 
do anything useful with. I want to say that cloth woven of dyed wool is 
going to be cheaper than cloth that is woven and then dyed, but I don't 
have enough knowledge of the medieval textile industry to be saying that. 
[Here is where someone who does, steps in and corrects me. ;-)] Certainly 
the comments in the inventories and accounts are specific that rayed cloth 
is for the members of the household fairly far down on the social 
scale--the valets and such.

What we've found, in going over some amazingly huge number of 
illuminations, frescos, panel paintings, book illustrations, etc., is that 
when someone is portrayed in stripes and/or parti-colour, that person is 
somehow a social inferior to at least one of the other people in the 
artwork. So we see stripes (and sometimes plaids) on musicians and on the 
people that my consort refers to as "minions"--the various servants, 
lackeys, etc. that tend to hang around important people in the art.

Except in the Manesse Codex, where I suspect that stripes indicate someone 
who is a fop or otherwise on the edge of fashion. Note that that's only a 
hypothesis--it hasn't made it to theory yet. ;-)

>
> Thanks to everyone who responded! I love this kind of conversation with you guys!
>
> Tea Rose

Anything to geek about stuff that isn't work!

Pixel
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Janet Arnold
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Status: RO

At 23:06 06/12/2006, you wrote:
>>At 18:58 06/12/2006, you wrote:
>>>If you're talking about the shirts book, I kind of do. It's still 
>>>hung up in legal issues - estate, copyright, permissions... the 
>>>typical yadda yadda for publishing a book of this nature. It 
>>>happens that my research crosses over hers, a couple of the shirts 
>>>in the Met collection are included in this book. But because hers 
>>>is far more diverse, the chances of my publishing first are 
>>>greater than her estate beating me to it. I am to understand her 
>>>estate has enough material to publish 4 more books. It's just a 
>>>matter of sifting through it all and assembling it appropriately. Kathy
>>
>>
>>
>>>hi, Does any of you know any news about the last Arnold Book wich 
>>>was supposed to be published? I am awaiting it impatiently Bjarne
>>
>>
>>The last I heard, the completion of the book(s) had been handed 
>>over from the original literary executors to another person. This, 
>>of course, will have caused a delay, not counting the time lost 
>>immediately after her death. She told me, only a few weeks before 
>>she died, that she had completed the fourth draft of the first 
>>book. Unfortunately it never occurred to me to ask which she meant 
>>by the "first" book. I know she was planning the 
>>shirts/ruffs/supportasses book as one unit, and the "other" one, I 
>>understood, was to have included more men's costumes.
>>
>>Suzi
>
>I had heard something about one of them being the "missing" book for 
>the period between 1620 and 1660.  Do any of you know anything about that?

That was what Janet was talking about - she said she had some men's 
suits to add - I think from the Isham collection, which are 
transitional. There is a beautiful coat which is very fragile, I seem 
to remember. I don't remember if she had any earlier women's clothes 
- maybe I was making a man's costume at the time - I am sorry not to 
have a clearer memory. I had expected the books to come out sooner 
after her death, and didn't think I needed to remember that precisely 
at the time.

Suzi 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 21:04:55 -0500
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Status: RO


On Dec 6, 2006, at 7:48 PM, Robin Netherton wrote:

>
> I've just finished editing an article by John Munro that will  
> appear in
> the next volume of Medieval Clothing & Textiles (vol. 3, to be  
> released in
> spring 2007).

John Munro rules! By the way, does anybody know if the proceedings of  
the Festschrift for him from 2004 -- Money, Markets, and Trade in  
Late Medieval Europe -- were ever published?

Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



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Status: RO

On Wednesday 06 December 2006 11:15 am, Susan B. Farmer wrote:
> Quoting Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>:
> > They have told me that the price has not been set yet.  Hopefully, they
> > will realize that there is quite a market if the price is reasonable.
>
> One can hope that they'll examine the sales of the Tudor Tailor .....

I hope they *don't*--if they do they may consider raising the price,  :-(


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost


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Status: RO

Quoting Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>:

> On Wednesday 06 December 2006 11:15 am, Susan B. Farmer wrote:
>> Quoting Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>:
>> > They have told me that the price has not been set yet.  Hopefully, they
>> > will realize that there is quite a market if the price is reasonable.
>>
>> One can hope that they'll examine the sales of the Tudor Tailor .....
>
> I hope they *don't*--if they do they may consider raising the price,  :-(

That would be insane!  They should look at the sales and see how well  
something like that does at a reasonable price!

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pricing of Scholarly Tomes (was Re: Dress at the Court
	of King Henry VIII)
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2006 00:00:34 -0500
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Status: RO

On Wednesday 06 December 2006 11:32 pm, Susan B. Farmer wrote:
> Quoting Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>:
> > On Wednesday 06 December 2006 11:15 am, Susan B. Farmer wrote:
> >> Quoting Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>:
> >> > They have told me that the price has not been set yet.  Hopefully,
> >> > they will realize that there is quite a market if the price is
> >> > reasonable.
> >>
> >> One can hope that they'll examine the sales of the Tudor Tailor .....
> >
> > I hope they *don't*--if they do they may consider raising the price,  :-(
>
> That would be insane!  They should look at the sales and see how well
> something like that does at a reasonable price!

I agree, but they may well figure if there's that much demand they would get 
more $$ with a higher price.  

I'm not convinced that the publishers of such scholarly works have a good idea 
of how to price their works to capture the reenactor/costumer market as well.  

Recently, I learned from a Swedish friend on another costume list that the 
University of Umea, which had published Margareta Nockert's book on the Hogom 
find, had only three copies left.  Because she knew that another friend on 
the list and I were interested, she called the university and asked them for 
the price.  That price?  68 Swedish Kroner--about $9.00 USD!  Even with 
postage from Sweden, the book didn't quite cost me $20--a fraction of what I 
would have paid to get it.  

On the other hand, the Oseberg textile book is not only expensive (possibly 
justifiable depending on the quality of the photographs) but it's like 
pulling teeth to get the publisher to accept the common forms of 
payment.  :-(

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost


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Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 22:07:10 EST
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The dreaded cutting of fabric
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Status: RO

Coraggio!
 
Just check and double check before you cut. Remember to match the plaid  
where you can. And if that's impossible, make sure the mismatch looks deliberate  
and not like you just barely got it "off".
 
And let us see the beautiful results!
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Status: RO

Hi. Haven't been following the thread, but did anyone suggest the 
"original" Casino Royale with Peter Sellers, David Niven and Ursula 
Andress? The female spies are all wearing the latest Carnaby Street type 
fashions...Cheers, Mike T.


>  
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Anglo-Saxon clothing book
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Status: RO

Not my era, but Amazon just sent me this and it sounded like it might pique 
someone's interest:

---------------
We've noticed that customers who have expressed interest in Knives and 
Scabbards (Medieval Finds from Excavations in London) by J. Cowgill have 
also ordered Cloth And Clothing in Early Anglo-Saxon England, AD 450-700 
(CBA Research Reports) by Penelope Rogers.  For this reason, you might like 
to know that Penelope Rogers's Cloth And Clothing in Early Anglo-Saxon 
England, AD 450-700 (CBA Research Reports) will be released on December 20, 
2006.

Cloth And Clothing in Early Anglo-Saxon England, AD 450-700 (CBA Research 
Reports) (Paperback)
by Penelope Rogers
Paperback: 250 pages
Publisher: Council for British Archaeology (December 20, 2006)
Language: English
ISBN: 1902771540
----------------

-E House 

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Thanks.  I got the muslin cut, now to try it on and adjust the fit.

Katy

On 12/6/06, AlbertCat@aol.com <AlbertCat@aol.com> wrote:
> Coraggio!
>
> Just check and double check before you cut. Remember to match the plaid
> where you can. And if that's impossible, make sure the mismatch looks deliberate
> and not like you just barely got it "off".
>
> And let us see the beautiful results!
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-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Can any of you tell me how this compares to an Organza?  I've never had a 
chance to handle it.


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>Coraggio!
> 
>Just check and double check before you cut. Remember to match the plaid  
>where you can. And if that's impossible, make sure the mismatch looks deliberate  
>and not like you just barely got it "off".

To paraphrase Martin Luther, "If you're going to sin, sin boldly!" <g>

____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
http://paternoster-row.org  -  http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
> Can any of you tell me how this compares to an Organza?  I've never had a 
> chance to handle it.

It's heavier and (at least what I've handled) more slippery.  Picture 
satin-backed organza. I think there were some posts about it on here a few 
months back--you might want to see if you can find it in the archives.

-E House

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Subject: [h-cost] anybody going to the British Museum?
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I have a request for anyone who is going to be in London this month. 
Some of the photos I took when I went in November did not come out, and 
there is one beautiful south american jacket photo I particularly want 
to replace. If you're going and would be willing to hunt it down for me 
(I know roughly where it is, but I don't have detailed enough info to 
ask the museum for a slide), please email me. :)


Dawn


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Status: RO

Ooh, yes! And is there anything else I should look for while I'm there?

> I have a request for anyone who is going to be in London this month. 
> Some of the photos I took when I went in November did not come out, and
> 
> there is one beautiful south american jacket photo I particularly want
> 
> to replace. If you're going and would be willing to hunt it down for me
> 
> (I know roughly where it is, but I don't have detailed enough info to 
> ask the museum for a slide), please email me. :)
> 
> 
> Dawn
> 
> 
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> 



http://anvil.unl.edu/emma
http://HelixHandworks.etsy.com
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From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:  Anglo-Saxon clothing book
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Status: RO

I've had this on pre-order since April of 2005. Yes, 20 months! It has been 
delayed so many times that I was waiting until I had my copy before posting 
any more about it.

David Brown Books (Oxbow) is discounting it for pre-orders.

Beth

At 01:00 PM 12/7/2006, you wrote:
>Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2006 01:32:48 -0600
>From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
>
>Not my era, but Amazon just sent me this and it sounded like it might pique
>someone's interest:
>
>---------------
>We've noticed that customers who have expressed interest in Knives and
>Scabbards (Medieval Finds from Excavations in London) by J. Cowgill have
>also ordered Cloth And Clothing in Early Anglo-Saxon England, AD 450-700
>(CBA Research Reports) by Penelope Rogers.  For this reason, you might like
>to know that Penelope Rogers's Cloth And Clothing in Early Anglo-Saxon
>England, AD 450-700 (CBA Research Reports) will be released on December 20,
>2006.
>
>Cloth And Clothing in Early Anglo-Saxon England, AD 450-700 (CBA Research
>Reports) (Paperback)
>by Penelope Rogers
>Paperback: 250 pages
>Publisher: Council for British Archaeology (December 20, 2006)
>Language: English
>ISBN: 1902771540
>----------------
>
>-E House

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00217146@bigred.unl.edu wrote:

> Ooh, yes! And is there anything else I should look for while I'm there?
> 
> 
>>I have a request for anyone who is going to be in London this month. 
>>Some of the photos I took when I went in November did not come out, and


There is a ton of amazingly good stuff at the British Museum. Too much, 
really. What time periods are you interested in? And don't forget to 
leave yourself an hour for the bookshop.



Dawn



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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Gazar?
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Hi,
Dont know it but i found this:
http://vox.popula.com/vintage/texlib/smnet.html

Bjarne

Time to say godnight now


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 2:30 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Silk Gazar?


> Can any of you tell me how this compares to an Organza?  I've never had a 
> chance to handle it.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:  Anglo-Saxon clothing book
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Status: RO

On Thursday 07 December 2006 3:11 pm, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
> I've had this on pre-order since April of 2005. Yes, 20 months! It has been
> delayed so many times that I was waiting until I had my copy before posting
> any more about it.
>
> David Brown Books (Oxbow) is discounting it for pre-orders.

Me too.  I can't remember any more how many times the publication date has 
been moved.  :-(


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost


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From: Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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----- Original Message ----
From: Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, 6 December, 2006 2:08:48 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt

>>>>><Snipped> And yes, she is another Italian example. I'm sure there are more out there, but as I said, anything not 16thc Venetian or Italian is not my forte. :-)<<<<




And it has been demostrated that even the Italian examples I forget about! Hence the Beatrice d'Este example already given and discussed, and now I present to you this lovely example of stripes by Sofonisba Anguissola that I was just reminded about....

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Sofonisba_Anguissola_001.jpg


Woven in I think. :-)



Bella

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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Gazar?
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2006 21:55:56 -0600
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I have a feeling it's going to depend on who's selling it; the silk gazar 
being sold by Fashion Fabrics Club, for example, doesn't really seem to 
match perfectly the descriptions I've read; it's more like what I'd expect 
from satin-backed organza (which I've actually never handled).  Here's what 
I posted last time about my experience with it:

---------------
Picture a heavy organza that's shiny/satiny on one side, at least when
purchased from FFC.  I got some of their gazar, and though it was
absolutely GORGEOUS, it was also a nightmare to sew. If I hadn't been
making the dress for a client who loved the fabric, I would have
thrown it out.  Or better yet, had a bonfire.  It catches and runs and
is so slippery you think you're going insane, and the dye job doesn't
quite go all the way through--if the fabric gets creased you can iron
it out, but you'll have a pale line where the crease was.

But it is gorgeous.
---------------
[search the archives around 11/13 for the topic 'Fabric Question' for more]

I should add that it has a very papery texture. In the future, I'd consider 
using it as a utility fabric for interlining/stiffening of a small area, but 
never again shall I try to use it as a fashion fabric layer for an entire 
garment.

-E House

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Date: Fri, 08 Dec 2006 10:23:28 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
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Status: RO

I've read "The Devil's Cloth" and I agree that there are some interesting--
and sometimes far fetched -- ideas presented there. I remember seeing a
painting right after I read the book. It was John the Baptist baptizing
Jesus. Jesus is wearing a striped undergarment. Somehow I doubt that He
would not be wearing something that was questionable-- even if it is a
painting.

Just as a side note. I made the Beatrice dress. IMO the stripes have to be
spliced in or applied. I remember the stripes doing domething funky around
the shoulders. Remember too, that this is a postumous picture of her-- she
died in childbed (the baby she lost is kneeling next to her in the
picture)-- so she wouldn't be posing in the dress, anyway.

As for stripes themselves-- everything woven would have to be yarn dyed,
unless there are two different fibers used. Then two chemically different
dyes, formulated to work with one of the fibers, could be dumped into the
same pot. This is a modern dye method and I am not sure how far back it
goes.

But wasn't there laws about mixing two fibers in a cloth?

Monica



-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Cat Dancer
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 6:08 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt


On Wed, 6 Dec 2006 tearoses@aol.com wrote:

> Ooo, a whole book about it! Thanks!

I don't remember where I found my copy. It's a fascinating book even if
some of his theories are off-the-wall. :-) The one thing it did do was to
get us to look critically at portrayals and look for themes and such.

>
> Pixel, is there any way of knowing if the sumptuary laws meant woven-in
stripes, applied stripes or pieced stripes?
>
> That painting with Mary Magdalen looked like they might be applied.

The Castilian law specifies types of cloth (which I will have to look up
when I get home) but the London law just says 'rayed cloth'. [I highly
recommend /Governance of the consuming passions : a history of sumptuary
law/ by Alan Hunt, if you want to dig deeper.] The rayed cloth of the
London law is probably woven-in stripes, stripes being what you, the
weaver, do if you have leftover yarns but not enough of any one color to
do anything useful with. I want to say that cloth woven of dyed wool is
going to be cheaper than cloth that is woven and then dyed, but I don't
have enough knowledge of the medieval textile industry to be saying that.
[Here is where someone who does, steps in and corrects me. ;-)] Certainly
the comments in the inventories and accounts are specific that rayed cloth
is for the members of the household fairly far down on the social
scale--the valets and such.

What we've found, in going over some amazingly huge number of
illuminations, frescos, panel paintings, book illustrations, etc., is that
when someone is portrayed in stripes and/or parti-colour, that person is
somehow a social inferior to at least one of the other people in the
artwork. So we see stripes (and sometimes plaids) on musicians and on the
people that my consort refers to as "minions"--the various servants,
lackeys, etc. that tend to hang around important people in the art.

Except in the Manesse Codex, where I suspect that stripes indicate someone
who is a fop or otherwise on the edge of fashion. Note that that's only a
hypothesis--it hasn't made it to theory yet. ;-)

>
> Thanks to everyone who responded! I love this kind of conversation with
you guys!
>
> Tea Rose

Anything to geek about stuff that isn't work!

Pixel
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What a fascinating portrait!  I haven't seen that one before.  Two 
things in particular are very interesting to me:  the cut of the sleeves 
on the right-hand girl, which you see in the tailor's manuals but not so 
much in the portraits, and the colored ties that loop through the 
corners of the partlet collars to hold them in place and then are tied 
and tucked into the chemise.

Neat!

Thanks,
Melanie


Bella wrote:
 >
 > And it has been demostrated that even the Italian examples I forget
 > about! Hence the Beatrice d'Este example already given and discussed,
 > and now I present to you this lovely example of stripes by Sofonisba
 > Anguissola that I was just reminded about....
 > http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Sofonisba_Anguissola_001.jpg
 >
 > Woven in I think. :-)
 >
 >
 > Bella

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To: "Tudortailor" <tudortailor@yahoogroups.com>,
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Subject: [h-cost] Inventories of Henry VIII and More just for YOU
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Status: RO

Ian Stevens on David Brown book Company will change the price of The
Inventories of Henry VIII  back to $72 (less than 1/2 original price) for us
short time.  If you don't see it, e-mail me with your info and I will have
him get in touch.  I can't recommend this book enough.  If you can't go $72
at this time of year for someone that it would be PERFECT for see if there
is a friend that will club together and each put in what you can.  Ian is
really a wonderful man at David Brown book company and so friendly!

Well, He's friendly until the end of his post where he hit me with this:
http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm/ID/47314/Location/DBBC

The fact that I had just received a "Christmas Present" large enough to make
such a purchase possible... but I think that
The Luttrell Psalter: A Facsimile  at $650
may have to stay on their shelves.  However, I certainly hope that any of
you who have libraries that will order such a thing for their collection,
probably colleges, will give your librarian a good strong nudge about this
one before they take it to Kalamazoo and flog it there!

With friends like Ian I will always have something to read.  By the way, I
don't work for them, I couldn't afford it.  I just am a very happy customer.

Wanda Pease
"All I want is a warm bed, a kind word and unlimited power"
"Yes, I am an Agent of Satan, but my duties are largely ceremonial"

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From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
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I am not getting any h-costume mail, got almost none yesterday (just
one at 4AM), just testing to see if I get this.

Katy


> _______________________________________________
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-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Forgive me, for I have sinned...
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My h-cost gift exchange package has not yet gone out. It was supposed to
be out yesterday. It is all ready and packed and will be in the mail
Monday.

Bet I'm not the only one.

--Robin

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I haven't heard anything from the list in two days. Margaret

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From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <BAY133-F738F7E1BC5A03F2ACE52AD2DC0@phx.gbl><000401c71a53$abfa8c00$1be73f50@CPQ21932199711>
	<44bd01c71a7c$c6714f50$ac00a8c0@compaqub>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Gazar?
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2006 08:10:41 -0700
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Thanks-very descriptive.  I have ordered a sample....didn't want to buy a whole bunch (its for a ruff) if it is a nightmare to sew with.

Sg
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: E House<mailto:formfunc@formfunction.org> 
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 8:55 PM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Gazar?


  I have a feeling it's going to depend on who's selling it; the silk gazar 
  being sold by Fashion Fabrics Club, for example, doesn't really seem to 
  match perfectly the descriptions I've read; it's more like what I'd expect 
  from satin-backed organza (which I've actually never handled).  Here's what 
  I posted last time about my experience with it:

  ---------------
  Picture a heavy organza that's shiny/satiny on one side, at least when
  purchased from FFC.  I got some of their gazar, and though it was
  absolutely GORGEOUS, it was also a nightmare to sew. If I hadn't been
  making the dress for a client who loved the fabric, I would have
  thrown it out.  Or better yet, had a bonfire.  It catches and runs and
  is so slippery you think you're going insane, and the dye job doesn't
  quite go all the way through--if the fabric gets creased you can iron
  it out, but you'll have a pale line where the crease was.

  But it is gorgeous.
  ---------------
  [search the archives around 11/13 for the topic 'Fabric Question' for more]

  I should add that it has a very papery texture. In the future, I'd consider 
  using it as a utility fabric for interlining/stiffening of a small area, but 
  never again shall I try to use it as a fashion fabric layer for an entire 
  garment.

  -E House

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From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] German 1830's-40's lower classes?
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Status: RO

Any body know where I can look for images of German (or surrounding areas) 
lower to middle classes -- also military and mental wards?  Doing a 
production of "Woyzeck" by Beuchner (died 1836) and the director would like 
to use this time frame but we seem to find mostly upper class.

Kate 


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] question about a book
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Status: RO

Found this book. Its rather expensive, and it doesnt say much about the 
book.
Do any here know it?


     Survey Of Historic Costume: A History Of Western Dress by Phyllis G. 
Tortora and Keith Eubank (Hardcover - Jun 30, 2005)



Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2006 19:37:35 -0600 (CST)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] not getting mail
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On Sat, 9 Dec 2006, Katy Bishop wrote:

> I am not getting any h-costume mail, got almost none yesterday (just
> one at 4AM), just testing to see if I get this.

I just got a huge dump of mail going back to Friday, so I expect a bunch
of other people were experiencing the same holdup.

--Robin

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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On Fri, 8 Dec 2006, E House wrote:

> > On Dec 6, 2006, at 7:48 PM, Robin Netherton wrote:
> >> I've just finished editing an article by John Munro that will  
> >> appear in
> >> the next volume of Medieval Clothing & Textiles (vol. 3, to be  
> >> released in
> >> spring 2007).
> 
> Want it now! Hurryhurry!  =}

The proofs are on my desk right now, and I'm working as fast as I can!

> Can you tell us what else is planned for the volume?

Well, since you ask:

1. Elizabeth Coatsworth, on Anglo-Saxon domestic textiles (cushions,
bedocverings, etc.)

2. Sarah Larratt Keefer, on Anglo-Saxon church vestments

3. Susan Leibacher Ward, on the use of saints in opus anglicanum
embroidery in 13th and 14th century church vestments

4. John Munro, on color preferences in Flemish luxury woollens, 1300-1550
(with a bunch of tables showing primary data on prices, number of
purchases, and colors)

5. John Oldland, on finishing processes for English woollens, 1300-1550

6. Lesley K. Twomey, on the symbolism of clothing descriptions in a 15th
century Spanish story of Mary

7.  Elizabeth Benns, on a 15th-century manual for fingerloop braiding

8. Lois Swales and Heather Blatt, on woven and fingerlooped bookmarkers
(lots of analysis of extant pieces in this one!)
 
9. h-cost's own Melanie Schuessler, on references to children's clothing
in the Lisle Letters, 1553-40


All that is listed here:

http://www.boydell.co.uk/43832917.HTM

Pre-orders welcome there, or via Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Medieval-Clothing-Textiles/dp/1843832917

Right now the prices is the same in both places, so if you are
pre-ordering and it doesn't matter which source you use, please use
Boydell; they get the numbers that way, whereas they don't know how many
people pre-order elsewhere.

--Robin


==========================================================
Robin Netherton 
Editor, Medieval Clothing and Textiles
robin@nightowl.net

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From: purplkat@optonline.net
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Forgive me, for I have sinned...
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Status: RO

Same here --

I thought I was the only one who was late.. I hope to get it out by Tuesday.. Mon is busy for us.

Katheryne

----- Original Message -----
From: Robin Netherton 
> 
> My h-cost gift exchange package has not yet gone out. It was 
> supposed to be out yesterday. It is all ready and packed and will be in the mail
> Monday.
> 
> Bet I'm not the only one.
> 
> --Robin
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
References: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPIEOMIAAA.otsisto@socket.net>
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Quoting otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>:

> Don't know if this was posted here.
> German
> http://pics.livejournal.com/jillwheezul/pic/0003sk8k
> Far right, probably applied or strips stitched together.

*wow* I love that!  Is there any additional information on that work?   
I've never seen it before!  I'll have to pop over to her LJ and ask  
.....

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Status: RO

tsk, tsk - mine went ages ago

;o)

but only cos bought it at the re-enactor's market and didn't want it to 
disappear into the tardis that is our house



In a message dated 11/12/2006 00:25:24 GMT Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> My h-cost gift exchange package has not yet gone out. It was supposed to
> be out yesterday. It is all ready and packed and will be in the mail
> Monday.
> 
> Bet I'm not the only one.
> 
> --Robin

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Status: RO

You are not the only one--Mine is also packaged and ready to go but, not in
the mail yet.

Diane

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2006 3:30 PM
To: Historic Costume List
Subject: [h-cost] Forgive me, for I have sinned...


My h-cost gift exchange package has not yet gone out. It was supposed to
be out yesterday. It is all ready and packed and will be in the mail
Monday.

Bet I'm not the only one.

--Robin

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In a message dated 12/10/2006 7:27:38 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

Found  this book. Its rather expensive, and it doesnt say much about the  
book.
Do any here know it?




This is one of the standard history of costume texts used here in the  U.S.  
I haven't seen the latest edition--I have the last one.  It is  just that, a 
very general survey.  I'm not sure, Bjarne, whether you would  find it very 
useful.  I would say that, if you do not have any of the  general survey books, 
you ought to have at least one.  How expensive is  it?
 
Ann Wass
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Date: Sat, 09 Dec 2006 17:18:45 -0500
From: "Helen Pinto" <hdpinto@verizon.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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In the process of (finally) unpacking my books, I've been finding things 
that could use a home other than mine.  I have a Metropolitan Museum of Art 
Bulletin from back in the days when they sent members these glossy books 
every quarter.  It's from the costume collection and contains large, 
high-quality pictures of garments from 1695 through the early 1950's, 
including microphotographs of some of the embroidered detail of the 
garments.  It's nice to look at, but way past anything I'm really interested 
in.
So...  I will scan and send photos of anything that someone fancies, and the 
whole thing can belong to the first person who asks for it.  (You have two 
weeks to ask for the pictures, then I'll mail it.)  The highlights:

- Complete embroidered woman's dress from 1695
- Four men's 18th c embroidered coats, one uncut, one with original 
embroidery cartoon, one with pants and vest
- Men's banyans
- Assorted women's 18c dresses, one with panniers, most sack-backed, all 
embroidered or hand-painted, 1740's - 1795
- Assorted women's 19c outfits, day dresses, evening wear, several from each 
decade
- Assorted women's 20c outfits, evening wear, suits, etc, up to the 50's

                      -Helen/Aidan


- 


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Subject: [h-cost] Cockades-French vs Scottish?  Instructions?
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A friend asked me to find out about instructions for making a Scottish Cockade.  In my internet search it appears that there may be a significant difference between the two types.  

http://www.appins.org/bonnet.htm<http://www.appins.org/bonnet.htm>  This would appear to be the Scottish type?

Any one have more knowledge about this?  I did find a commercial pattern which appears to be Scottish in nature here: Supposedly it has a means of making a Cockade and a Toorie (what is that?).

Thanks, in advance, 

Saragrace
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Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 13:16:42 +1300
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
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monica spence wrote:

>
>But wasn't there laws about mixing two fibers in a cloth?
>  
>


Yes, if you're a very observant Jew.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
----------------------------- 


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I sent my gift recipient a card (by the deadline) to say SOON! -- 
meaning I'll be sending in the next week. The deadline of the 8th was  
just too hard for this Freshman Comp teacher as the semester cascades  
to a close.
--Ruth Anne

On Dec 9, 2006, at 4:30 PM, Robin Netherton wrote:

>
> My h-cost gift exchange package has not yet gone out. It was  
> supposed to
> be out yesterday. It is all ready and packed and will be in the mail
> Monday.
>
> Bet I'm not the only one.
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
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Status: RO


It's not a skirt, and it's plaid (rather a
'window-pane' check), not striped, but do remember,
please, the cut-off cuff found in London, as published
in the MOL Textiles & Clothing book.  Tiny stripes (2
threads?) of dark intersecting stripes of medium &
light threads, both verticallly and horizontally.  One
way had more threads than the other.
Maybe 1300-1450--it's dated more precisely in the
book.
(Yes, it's from memory, but I'm being too lazy to look
it up properly.)

I'm guessing that stripes & or plaids were just not
what artists were looking to paint.
At least this group won't assume that any person in
plaids/crossed stripes/etc. is Scottish.  :)

Ann in CT


 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Forgive me, for I have sinned...
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Quoting Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>:

>
> My h-cost gift exchange package has not yet gone out. It was supposed to
> be out yesterday. It is all ready and packed and will be in the mail
> Monday.
>
> Bet I'm not the only one.

No, no you're not.

*sigh*

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
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Don't know if this was posted here.
German
http://pics.livejournal.com/jillwheezul/pic/0003sk8k
Far right, probably applied or strips stitched together.
De

-----Original Message-----
>>>>><Snipped> And yes, she is another Italian example. I'm sure there are
more out there, but as I said, anything not 16thc Venetian or Italian is not
my forte. :-)<<<<

And it has been demostrated that even the Italian examples I forget about!
Hence the Beatrice d'Este example already given and discussed, and now I
present to you this lovely example of stripes by Sofonisba Anguissola that I
was just reminded about....

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Sofonisba_Anguissola_001.jpg


Woven in I think. :-)
Bella


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Subject: [h-cost] Comparing silk sewing thread...grrrr
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Hi all, I own several spools of YLI silk thread 100# count. http://www.ylicorp.com/YLISilk.html<http://www.ylicorp.com/YLISilk.html>

I need to replace it and was placing an order with Greenburg & Hammer.  

http://www.greenberghammer.com/store.asp?ItemID=2591<http://www.greenberghammer.com/store.asp?ItemID=2591> Their silk threads are measured in mm.

Any ideas on how to compare the two?

Thanks!

Sg
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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
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References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10612061820420.5177-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
	<D6C84CE9-9298-4582-A4D4-9720932EA07E@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2006 11:29:08 -0600
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> On Dec 6, 2006, at 7:48 PM, Robin Netherton wrote:
>> I've just finished editing an article by John Munro that will  
>> appear in
>> the next volume of Medieval Clothing & Textiles (vol. 3, to be  
>> released in
>> spring 2007).

Want it now! Hurryhurry!  =}

Can you tell us what else is planned for the volume?

-E House
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Dec 10 21:48:38 2006
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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20061208091938.16226.qmail@web31509.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2006 08:57:21 -0700
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Dang! Now *I'm* embarassed, because I've looked at my book on Sofonisba
maybe a 1000 times, and I didn't even *think* of that one!
I'm starting to wonder, though, since most of the examples we've found that
are later-period (16th century, rather than the medieval examples) seem to
be Spanish or Italian (region/fashion influence unknown or Venetian), if
it's not a regional style? It'd be interesting to nail down the influences
especially on the Italian stuff--so many other kingdoms were coming and
going on the Italian peninsula in the 1500s, that I wonder if the striped
style wouldn't have been known as distinctively "X" in nature.
--Sue, who always wanted to write some grand paper exploring the connections
between fashion and politics.....

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bella" <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 2:19 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt


> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, 6 December, 2006 2:08:48 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
>
> >>>>><Snipped> And yes, she is another Italian example. I'm sure there are
more out there, but as I said, anything not 16thc Venetian or Italian is not
my forte. :-)<<<<
>
>
>
>
> And it has been demostrated that even the Italian examples I forget about!
Hence the Beatrice d'Este example already given and discussed, and now I
present to you this lovely example of stripes by Sofonisba Anguissola that I
was just reminded about....
>
> http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Sofonisba_Anguissola_001.jpg
>
>
> Woven in I think. :-)
>
>
>
> Bella
>
> Send instant messages to your online friends http://au.messenger.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Dec 10 22:10:11 2006
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Bjarne, you don't need this book.

Survey Of Historic Costume: A History Of Western Dress by Phyllis G. 
Tortora and Keith Eubank

This book is a required text book for a lot of college costume history 
classes.  It gives a surface overview of western costume from ancient times 
to today.  Quite frankly I think Francois Boucher does a better job with 
20,000 Years of Fashion.

Dawn


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Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2006 22:46:31 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
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I think there were laws about mixing fibers, that did not have to do with
religion, as well. Can't think of where off the tp of my head, but if I find
it I'll post it.
monica/ Catriona

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Adele de Maisieres
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 7:17 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt


monica spence wrote:

>
>But wasn't there laws about mixing two fibers in a cloth?
>
>


Yes, if you're a very observant Jew.

--
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
-----------------------------


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Status: RO

I like it to. This lets you see the back and envision the front.
De

-----Original Message-----
> Don't know if this was posted here.
> German
> http://pics.livejournal.com/jillwheezul/pic/0003sk8k
> Far right, probably applied or strips stitched together.

*wow* I love that!  Is there any additional information on that work?   
I've never seen it before!  I'll have to pop over to her LJ and ask  
.....

susan


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Inventories of Henry VIII and More just for YOU
In-Reply-To: <HGEEKKPFPKOJBDPGKLOCGEIIOAAA.wandap@hevanet.com>
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On Fri, 8 Dec 2006, Wanda Pease wrote:

> Ian Stevens on David Brown book Company will change the price of The
> Inventories of Henry VIII  back to $72 (less than 1/2 original price) for us
> short time.  If you don't see it, e-mail me with your info and I will have
> him get in touch.  I can't recommend this book enough.  If you can't go $72
> at this time of year for someone that it would be PERFECT for see if there
> is a friend that will club together and each put in what you can.  Ian is
> really a wonderful man at David Brown book company and so friendly!

He is every bit as sweet in person. Really.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Forgive me, for I have sinned...
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2006 22:40:25 -0700
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Status: RO

Nope.  In my defense, I not only have the IRS on my butt about not filing my
2000 tax return, but I just finished collecting 2 years' worth of financial
information for a review of the books for my local SCA group.  I haven't had
time to do much more than blink, feed the cats, and sleep.
The thing I'm making for my secret person will be in the mail just as soon
as I can possibly get it--and before the 25th, come hell or high water.
--Sue, slinking off to go burn some midnight oil working on ??? ;o)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historic Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2006 2:30 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Forgive me, for I have sinned...


>
> My h-cost gift exchange package has not yet gone out. It was supposed to
> be out yesterday. It is all ready and packed and will be in the mail
> Monday.
>
> Bet I'm not the only one.
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
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References: <3586f5070612090639j29580b7dy13c605ecbff26cac@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] not getting mail
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Status: RO

I didn't get any all weekend, and then a whole bunch of them all this
evening (after 5 p.m.), starting back from Friday morning.  Must have been
some sort of glitch, although I'd just figured it had been a quiet
weekend....
--Sue
----- Original Message -----
From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2006 7:39 AM
Subject: [h-cost] not getting mail


> I am not getting any h-costume mail, got almost none yesterday (just
> one at 4AM), just testing to see if I get this.
>
> Katy
>
>
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
> --
> Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
> vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
>      Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
>       Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <cc0.5e5de4c.32ae0f0b@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 768
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Status: RO

Tardis?
--Sue

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Debloughcostumes@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 6:31 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 768


> tsk, tsk - mine went ages ago
> 
> ;o)
> 
> but only cos bought it at the re-enactor's market and didn't want it to 
> disappear into the tardis that is our house


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	<20061210203142.nhkgablxwvcososo@www.goldsword.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 00:48:58 -0500
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If you find anything more, could you please post it here?

Janet
  > Don't know if this was posted here.
  > German
  > http://pics.livejournal.com/jillwheezul/pic/0003sk8k
  > Far right, probably applied or strips stitched together.

  *wow* I love that!  Is there any additional information on that work?   
  I've never seen it before!  I'll have to pop over to her LJ and ask  
  .....
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From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] re: Bjarne's book question
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I agree. I am, unfortunately, saddled with the Tortora book as the text
forteaching my college-level Fashion History class. What is so much worse is
the Instructor's interactive CD. OMG-- A bunch of High School kids could do
better.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Dawn Luckham
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 10:09 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] re: Bjarne's book question


Bjarne, you don't need this book.

Survey Of Historic Costume: A History Of Western Dress by Phyllis G.
Tortora and Keith Eubank

This book is a required text book for a lot of college costume history
classes.  It gives a surface overview of western costume from ancient times
to today.  Quite frankly I think Francois Boucher does a better job with
20,000 Years of Fashion.

Dawn


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Dr. Who?..  or Fold Box from Glory Road
 Issue 768
> 
> 
> Tardis?
> --Sue
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 768
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It's a Dr. Who reference - the "spaceship" that he travels through time 
with. It has a chameleon circuit which allows it to take on any form so that 
it doesn't get much notice where it lands, only it's broken and is stuck - 
as a UK Police Box (but I think that they're different now...used to be blue 
are now red??). It's about the old US phone booth sized outside and *huge* 
on the inside.

A friend of mine has a house like that; looks a bungalow outside, but is 
over 2000 sq ft inside (ranch-style, no upstairs!).

And no, I haven't mailed my prezzie, either. The paint is still drying. :-)

kate

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 12:52 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 768


> Tardis?
> --Sue
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <Debloughcostumes@aol.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 6:31 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 768
>
>
>> tsk, tsk - mine went ages ago
>>
>> ;o)
>>
>> but only cos bought it at the re-enactor's market and didn't want it to
>> disappear into the tardis that is our house
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Status: RO


> Any body know where I can look for images of German (or surrounding areas)
> lower to middle classes -- also military and mental wards?  Doing a
> production of "Woyzeck" by Beuchner (died 1836) and the director would
> like
> to use this time frame but we seem to find mostly upper class.

Have you tried looking at the paintings of Bruegel?  He painted some
lovely peasant scenes.  I think he is Dutch but it is in the surrounding
area.  Also, the woodcuts of Durer might have some ideas for you also (he
was German).

Good luck!

Diana

-- 
www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
--Ghandi

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From: "Eva Andersson" <eva.andersson@comhem.se>
To: <h-costume@mail.indra.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 08:17:35 +0100
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Subject: [h-cost] (fairly) new dissertation on medieval clothing in
	Scandinavia
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Status: RO

I have now done a reprint of my doctor's dissertation "Kläderna och
människan i medeltidens Sverige och Norge" ("Clothing and the individual
in medieval Sweden and Norway"). It's a survey of all clothing mentioned
in wills and other types of documents from Norway and Sweden between
1200 and 1500. The clothes, and also fabric intended for clothes, are
analysed in comparison with both preserved clothing and contemporary
art. Social differences and the spread of fashion is adressed as well as
how gender was expressed; and why it was expressed that way. The
abstract can be read here: http://web.comhem.se/~u41200125/abstract.htm
 
It's a rather large book, 376 pages , with c. 40 black and white
pictures (not art book quality, but that's not needed for the purpose of
the text)
 
If you read a scandinavian language you may be interested in buying it.
You can do that from Handelsgillet:
http://www.handelsgillet.se/bocker.htm
 
Since I don't have a publisher for an english version and I have no idea
where to find one it is not likely there will be one.
 
/Eva I Andersson
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
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This was posted on another list and pointing out something else when I saw
the striped gown. I will keep a note for stripes when I see them.
De

-----Original Message-----
If you find anything more, could you please post it here?

Janet
  > Don't know if this was posted here.
  > German
  > http://pics.livejournal.com/jillwheezul/pic/0003sk8k
  > Far right, probably applied or strips stitched together.



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Our fashion dept. at the university use it as my class textbook for 
contemporized fashion history class.  The newer versions are a lot better 
than the older ones.  I purchased my newer version on eBay last month for 
$40.  I used the older version 10 years ago when I was a student and it is 
good as an overview.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thanks!  I got a bunch last night too.

Katy

On 12/11/06, Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote:
> I didn't get any all weekend, and then a whole bunch of them all this
> evening (after 5 p.m.), starting back from Friday morning.  Must have been
> some sort of glitch, although I'd just figured it had been a quiet
> weekend....
> --Sue
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2006 7:39 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] not getting mail
>
>
> > I am not getting any h-costume mail, got almost none yesterday (just
> > one at 4AM), just testing to see if I get this.
> >
> > Katy
> >
> >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> > >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
> > vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
> >      Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
> >       Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
> > _______________________________________________
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-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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From: "LLOYD MITCHELL" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] 0f  belts and hanging sleeves
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Status: RO

Two questions:
Waugh suggests Swiss belts for some of the mid 19thC dresses.  Any clue as 
to what these looked like?


I am working out the problems of interpreting the Darnley Dress for my QEI 
14" doll.  At first, I thought I was looking at a sleeveless coat
be set to give a cape effect.  On closer examenation, I see that this is 
actually a hanging sleeve...born out by Waugh, Arnold, and Hunnisett.  I 
have worked out the shape and cut but am having problems with  the set. In 
order for the unity of the skirt , bodice and sleeve that bear the 
ornamentation, I can only achieve the look by inserting the hanging sleeve 
outside in.  This means that the lining will actually be the outside fabric.

Has anyone else attempted this dress "for real"? I have turned the backside 
of the shoulder area backwards so the gathers of the shoulder look like the 
painting...and will tack them downover the silk lining, but the lining is 
still exposed in all its plainess. I have been unable to find any 
explanation of how this was done.

Or, might the error be at the end of the artist's brush? He chose to try to 
capture the total dazzle of the gown?

Kathleen 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Met Museum Bulletin
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Status: RO

Helen Pinto wrote:
> So...  I will scan and send photos of anything that someone fancies, 
> and the whole thing can belong to the first person who asks for it.  
> (You have two weeks to ask for the pictures, then I'll mail it.)  The 
> highlights:

What a nice offer. I would love to see scans of anything from 1750-1850, 
especially 1800-1820. And if no one else claims it...


- Hope

--------------
hope.greenberg@uvm edu, Academic Computing, Uof Vermont
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 0f  belts and hanging sleeves
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Status: RO

At 14:06 11/12/2006, you wrote:
>Two questions:
>Waugh suggests Swiss belts for some of the mid 19thC dresses.  Any 
>clue as to what these looked like?

Could this be the same as I have heard called "Swiss Waists" in the 
U.S. That is a belt that is shaped to an upward and downward facing 
point at the centre front.



>I am working out the problems of interpreting the Darnley Dress for 
>my QEI 14" doll.

Do you mean the "Ditchley" dress?

>At first, I thought I was looking at a sleeveless coat
>be set to give a cape effect.  On closer examenation, I see that 
>this is actually a hanging sleeve...born out by Waugh, Arnold, and 
>Hunnisett.  I have worked out the shape and cut but am having 
>problems with  the set. In order for the unity of the skirt , bodice 
>and sleeve that bear the ornamentation, I can only achieve the look 
>by inserting the hanging sleeve outside in.  This means that the 
>lining will actually be the outside fabric.

Hunnisett suggests that the armhole and the sleeves are both 
finished, (bound is easiest) and then the sleeves are whipped in by 
hand. That way you can put the hanging sleeve on first, and the dress 
sleeve inside it. I have done double sleeves like this and it works 
with no difficulty.


>Has anyone else attempted this dress "for real"? I have turned the 
>backside of the shoulder area backwards so the gathers of the 
>shoulder look like the painting...and will tack them downover the 
>silk lining, but the lining is still exposed in all its plainess. I 
>have been unable to find any explanation of how this was done.


Suzi

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Subject: [h-cost] another delay: A-S Cloth
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Status: RO

OK. Just got the word: Cloth and Clothing in Anglo-Saxon England, AD 
450-700 by Penelope Rogers has been delayed again.. now April 2007 release 
date. I will only have had it on order for two years....

Beth 

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Status: RO

Also known to randomly rearrange the interior rooms in moments of
crisis...(4/5th Doctors)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Ailith Mackintosh
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 12:01 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 768

It's a Dr. Who reference - the "spaceship" that he travels through time 
with. It has a chameleon circuit which allows it to take on any form so that

it doesn't get much notice where it lands, only it's broken and is stuck - 
as a UK Police Box (but I think that they're different now...used to be blue

are now red??). It's about the old US phone booth sized outside and *huge* 
on the inside.

tinfo/h-costume

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 0f  belts and hanging sleeves
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Status: RO

I believe that Swiss belts in the mid-19th century were the ones that were wider in the front, often with a point at center front and frequently had a laced effect there mimicking the lacing on a bodice.
Which portrait are you referring to for Queen E? The portrait I know as the Darnley Portrait is the one in gold and cream with the 'Polish' frog closures up the front of the doublet-bodice and no sign of hanging sleeves at all. Are you thinking of one of the Armada portraits?
 
Karen
Seamstrix


-- "LLOYD MITCHELL" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu> wrote:
Two questions:
Waugh suggests Swiss belts for some of the mid 19thC dresses.  Any clue as 
to what these looked like?


I am working out the problems of interpreting the Darnley Dress for my QEI 
14" doll.  At first, I thought I was looking at a sleeveless coat
be set to give a cape effect.  On closer examenation, I see that this is 
actually a hanging sleeve...born out by Waugh, Arnold, and Hunnisett.  I 
have worked out the shape and cut but am having problems with  the set. In 
order for the unity of the skirt , bodice and sleeve that bear the 
ornamentation, I can only achieve the look by inserting the hanging sleeve 
outside in.  This means that the lining will actually be the outside fabric.

Has anyone else attempted this dress "for real"? I have turned the backside 
of the shoulder area backwards so the gathers of the shoulder look like the 
painting...and will tack them downover the silk lining, but the lining is 
still exposed in all its plainess. I have been unable to find any 
explanation of how this was done.

Or, might the error be at the end of the artist's brush? He chose to try to 
capture the total dazzle of the gown?

Kathleen 

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In a message dated 11/12/2006 15:39:35 GMT Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> Tardis?
> --Sue

the police box from dr who (time and relative dimension in space - does 
knowing that make me a dweeb??)

as in seems to be much bigger inside than it looks from the outside - must be 
cos can never find anything...:o)

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In a message dated 11/12/2006 15:39:35 GMT Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> Subject: Re: [h-cost] German 1830's-40's lower classes?
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
>     <1051.67.174.246.110.1165818945.squirrel@spamfilter.nationwide.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
> 
> 
> > Any body know where I can look for images of German (or surrounding areas)
> > lower to middle classes -- also military and mental wards?  Doing a
> > production of "Woyzeck" by Beuchner (died 1836) and the director would
> > like
> > to use this time frame but we seem to find mostly upper class.
> 
> Have you tried looking at the paintings of Bruegel?  He painted some
> lovely peasant scenes.  I think he is Dutch but it is in the surrounding
> area.  Also, the woodcuts of Durer might have some ideas for you also (he
> was German).
> 
> Good luck!
> 

but breugal and durer are both much earlier
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Status: RO

Quoting otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>:

> This was posted on another list and pointing out something else when I saw
> the striped gown. I will keep a note for stripes when I see them.

post them to the list, would you?  I'm compiling a "stripes" list too  
.... (to go with my Pregnant Elizabethan's and my bi-colored Italian  
gowns ....)

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 11:23:13 -0500
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Status: RO

Depending on where and when, some of the guild and export regulations  
required specific fabrics to be unmixed; I'll dig out my Cambridge  
History of Western Textiles tonight and see if I can find some  
examples. Most of them were,if I'm remembering right, about not  
allowing worsted where woolen was expected,  or not allowing wheel- 
spun fibers to be used in warp, only in weft, which today we would  
not even think of as mixing fibers.
Lauren

On Dec 10, 2006, at 10:46 PM, monica spence wrote:

> I think there were laws about mixing fibers, that did not have to  
> do with
> religion, as well. Can't think of where off the tp of my head, but  
> if I find
> it I'll post it.
> monica/ Catriona
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume- 
> bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Adele de Maisieres
> Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 7:17 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
>
>
> monica spence wrote:
>
>>
>> But wasn't there laws about mixing two fibers in a cloth?
>>
>>
>
>
> Yes, if you're a very observant Jew.
>
> --
> Adele de Maisieres
>
> -----------------------------
> Habeo metrum - musicamque,
> hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
> -Georgeus Gershwinus
> -----------------------------
>
>
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> _______________________________________________
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Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



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Status: RO

Helen Pinto wrote:
> In the process of (finally) unpacking my books, I've been finding things 
> that could use a home other than mine.  I have a Metropolitan Museum of 
> Art Bulletin from back in the days when they sent members these glossy 
> books every quarter. 

I would like to have it, if it's not one I laready own. What is the date 
on it?


Dawn

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Status: RO

Ailith wrote: 

>It's a Dr. Who reference - the "spaceship" that he travels through
time 
>with. It has a chameleon circuit which allows it to take on any form
so that 
>it doesn't get much notice where it lands, only it's broken and is
stuck - 
>as a UK Police Box (but I think that they're different now...used to
be blue 
>are now red??). It's about the old US phone booth sized outside and
*huge* 
>on the inside.

Police telephone boxes no longer exist at all; they became obsolete
when the police got personal radios. I can still dimly remember them
being a common item of street furniture in British towns, in the 1960s
when "Dr. Who" began. 
The red boxes were ordinary public telephones. A few red ones still
remain, most have been replaced with modern steel boxes, and of course
mobile phones are making them become obsolete too...

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor
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Status: RO

Is this the closed bodice with a high neck for the Hunnisett book? Or is
it the white Ditchley gown?  I did a circa 1570's gown with hanging
sleeves for a 22" doll I made about seven years ago. Allow extra seam
allowances because you will be turning in those on the tops of the
hanging sleeves and then joining them to your bodice/outer sleeves. I
joined both lining and fabric on all the sides but the top of the
hanging sleeves. I was sewing by hand so it was easy to avoid catching
the trim on the main fabric to the lining. Turn right side out and
press. Turn in the top seam allowances, but very carefully trim out any
interlinings or trimmings closer to the seam allowance to eliminate
bulk. Pin the turned in allowances and whipstitch closed. Then pin in
place on bodice/outer sleeve. and tack or sew in place. You may want to
pin in place both hanging sleeves to make sure the hang is correct on
both sides before sewing. Adjust until the look is correct. If I
remember correctly, I joined the hanging sleeve to the bodice upper
armholes on my version based on the Darnley. I had to also figure out
how to put in the shoulder wing, which in part had to be sewn in with
the hanging sleeve to the bodice armhole. The inner gown sleeve was
actually laced to the shoulder straps of the stays. The stomacher was
whipstitched to the front of the stays and the same for the forepart to
the petticoat/farthingale(combining both to one to avoid bulk and insure
a smooth fit at the waist. The doll I made and dressed could take all
the underpinnings because I left a bit of give in her stuffed body to
allow for it. To this day, the stays have prevented gravity from
shifting and dropping her torso stuffing And I stuff very firmly.
Because this doll was in competition and would be undressed to check her
workmanship,(I had to write down that the costuming was historically
correct as to the doll lacking panties, bloomers, unmentionables to
avoid shocking the judges!), I had to sew or lace together pieces that
would have been pinned in place.

The problem with doing research to dress a doll as historically
correctly is that the more research you do, actually the harder your job
becomes.

Like trying to find the correct fabric in the correct colors, weight and
scale for an Elizabethan doll.  Buy or make? If you have a doll with a
hard torso, can she take all the layers of chemise, stays, stomacher,
and farthingale, petticoat and gown around the waist without looking
fat? How to you draft patterns to avoid waist bulk but have enough
gathering/pleating so the skirts hang correctly? Were upper class
Elizabethan women all that corseted and flat-chested, or were they just
painted that way? How do you thin and style a doll's rooted hair or wig
to get the right look under various combinations of coifs, caps, hoods
and hats? Do you fake an Elizabethan ruff if you want to do one, or go
whole hog to attempt the "real" figure-eights ruff on a doll, including
starching and shaping? And what was authentic then that is still
pleasing to the eye today?

Earlier this year, a traveling exhibition on Elizabeth I came to our
city library and one of the programs was on Elizabethan costuming . A
local professional costumer had made a full size version of the Ditchley
ensemble about 10 years ago. Even with the fake gems, the cost was about
$1,000.00. He said the most difficult part of the outfit was getting the
hanging sleeves onto the huge outersleeves without the weight collapsing
the inner sleeves, same as for Hunnisett.  His theory was also that most
of the parts on the original were pinned to each other, given the
difficulty of sewing them together but for theater, TV, movie and
teaching, it is too time-consuming and risky with all those pins(!)to
put the Ditchley ensemble on the wearer without taking some shortcuts.  

Hope this helps and I would have loved to have had the Tudor Tailor in
my possession years ago!!

Cindy Abel




 



  

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-----Original Message-----
 Kind of sad the Police Boxes are disappearing, but they've worked that
a bit into the new Doctor Who series where the Tardis stands out a lot
more instead of being more anonymous. And the so-called historic
costuming in episodes where it is called for, is just as much fun to
pick apart as the original series.

Cindy Abel

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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
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Subject: [h-cost] Mixing fibers (was: Re: striped skirt)
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I couldn't quote you chapter and verse at the moment, but I've run across 
quite a few regulations/laws about mixing fibers & fiber content.  From what 
I can remember, they all boiled down to either quality control, or truth in 
advertising, and a lot of them were pushed by whichever guild applied.  The 
only source I can think of for examples at the moment is Mizzoui's cotton 
book, which I don't have, or possibly textiler hausrat, which ditto.

-E House 

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Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 12:09:30 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
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Yup. Thanks for the post. That is the kind of thing I was remembering.

Worsted vs woolen-- pretty funny, since both are wool. Worsted is just a
fine spun wool.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Lauren Walker
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 11:23 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt


Depending on where and when, some of the guild and export regulations
required specific fabrics to be unmixed; I'll dig out my Cambridge
History of Western Textiles tonight and see if I can find some
examples. Most of them were,if I'm remembering right, about not
allowing worsted where woolen was expected,  or not allowing wheel-
spun fibers to be used in warp, only in weft, which today we would
not even think of as mixing fibers.
Lauren

On Dec 10, 2006, at 10:46 PM, monica spence wrote:

> I think there were laws about mixing fibers, that did not have to
> do with
> religion, as well. Can't think of where off the tp of my head, but
> if I find
> it I'll post it.
> monica/ Catriona
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-
> bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Adele de Maisieres
> Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 7:17 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
>
>
> monica spence wrote:
>
>>
>> But wasn't there laws about mixing two fibers in a cloth?
>>
>>
>
>
> Yes, if you're a very observant Jew.
>
> --
> Adele de Maisieres
>
> -----------------------------
> Habeo metrum - musicamque,
> hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
> -Georgeus Gershwinus
> -----------------------------
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> _______________________________________________
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Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



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From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
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Status: RO

Those laws might also have somthing to do with paper production. Seem to remember a law, somewhere, probably england or denmark, where people were forbidden to be buried in linen and cotton. Wool cannot be used for paper and it would be a waste to put linen in with wool when the time came to reuse the fibers. As you get closer to the industrial revolution, the more the need for sources for paper increase, which is only made good by the invention of the woodpulp paper (I do bookbinding as a hobby too), which is by many still counted as inferior to ragpaper
   
  Tania (Denmark)

E House <formfunc@formfunction.org> wrote:
  I couldn't quote you chapter and verse at the moment, but I've run across 
quite a few regulations/laws about mixing fibers & fiber content. From what 
I can remember, they all boiled down to either quality control, or truth in 
advertising, and a lot of them were pushed by whichever guild applied. The 
only source I can think of for examples at the moment is Mizzoui's cotton 
book, which I don't have, or possibly textiler hausrat, which ditto.

-E House 

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>Police telephone boxes no longer exist at all; they became obsolete
>when the police got personal radios.

there's still a police box somewhere in wakefield (forget where exactly) in 
yorkshire - but it's brick built (looks a bit like a small signal box).

and police round here have blackberries now!!
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From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] German 1830's-40's lower classes?
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 12:29:27 -0500
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Status: RO

He's about 250 years early for what I'm looking for

Kate
609-570-3584

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Diana Habra
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 1:36 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] German 1830's-40's lower classes?


> Any body know where I can look for images of German (or surrounding
areas)
> lower to middle classes -- also military and mental wards?  Doing a
> production of "Woyzeck" by Beuchner (died 1836) and the director would
> like
> to use this time frame but we seem to find mostly upper class.

Have you tried looking at the paintings of Bruegel?  He painted some
lovely peasant scenes.  I think he is Dutch but it is in the surrounding
area.  Also, the woodcuts of Durer might have some ideas for you also
(he
was German).

Good luck!

Diana

-- 
www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

"Become the change you want to see in the world."
--Ghandi

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From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
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I don't know, in my house it was my 8-year old granddaughter arguing with my
27 year old son whether it was red or blue...

alex


On 12/11/06, Debloughcostumes@aol.com <Debloughcostumes@aol.com> wrote:
>
> In a message dated 11/12/2006 15:39:35 GMT Standard Time,
> h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
>
>
> > Tardis?
> > --Sue
>
> the police box from dr who (time and relative dimension in space - does
> knowing that make me a dweeb??)
>
> as in seems to be much bigger inside than it looks from the outside - must
> be
> cos can never find anything...:o)
>
>
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If you miss the good old blue tardis, come to Edinburgh, there are oodles of them still around here. :-)

Not in use, of course, except for those which serve coffee and soup.

Nicole

----- Original Message ----
From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, 11 December, 2006 4:59:17 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Tardis


-----Original Message-----
Kind of sad the Police Boxes are disappearing, but they've worked that
a bit into the new Doctor Who series where the Tardis stands out a lot
more instead of being more anonymous. And the so-called historic
costuming in episodes where it is called for, is just as much fun to
pick apart as the original series.

Cindy Abel

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Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 17:51:13 +0000 (GMT)
From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 768
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I much prefer the idea of the "fold box", from "Glory Road".
   
  Julian, 
  in "old" Jersey.

Wanda Pease <wandap@hevanet.com> wrote:
  Dr. Who?.. or Fold Box from Glory Road
Issue 768
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From: "LLOYD MITCHELL" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
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References: <20061211.073742.757.640606@webmail37.nyc.untd.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 0f  belts and hanging sleeves
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Status: RO

Ahah on the Swiss belt.  I have severalbut did not know they had a name.



And alas, I do mean the Ditchley"
And thankyou Cindy for the notes on construction...even for a doll!
I am still floundering about the "inside out/outside in."


As illustrated in Arnold and elsewhere, I understand the the longer sleeves 
are an actual 'tube' in part.  How does it hang for this gown so that it (1) 
contains the inner true sleeve and(2) also reveal the elaborate matching 
quality of the gown. According to the painting, this sleeve is as long as 
the skirt. I made the lining just as Cindy suggests but cannot get the right 
effect when the inner sleeve is inserted and there slis my problem.

Another small query, what is the visible red one can see throught the space 
beneath the left arm?  This was originally why I thought I was seeing this 
"Cape".

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <penhalion@juno.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 10:37 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 0f belts and hanging sleeves


I believe that Swiss belts in the mid-19th century were the ones that were 
wider in the front, often with a point at center front and frequently had a 
laced effect there mimicking the lacing on a bodice.
Which portrait are you referring to for Queen E? The portrait I know as the 
Darnley Portrait is the one in gold and cream with the 'Polish' frog 
closures up the front of the doublet-bodice and no sign of hanging sleeves 
at all. Are you thinking of one of the Armada portraits?

Karen
Seamstrix


-- "LLOYD MITCHELL" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu> wrote:
Two questions:
Waugh suggests Swiss belts for some of the mid 19thC dresses.  Any clue as
to what these looked like?


I am working out the problems of interpreting the Darnley Dress for my QEI
14" doll.  At first, I thought I was looking at a sleeveless coat
be set to give a cape effect.  On closer examenation, I see that this is
actually a hanging sleeve...born out by Waugh, Arnold, and Hunnisett.  I
have worked out the shape and cut but am having problems with  the set. In
order for the unity of the skirt , bodice and sleeve that bear the
ornamentation, I can only achieve the look by inserting the hanging sleeve
outside in.  This means that the lining will actually be the outside fabric.

Has anyone else attempted this dress "for real"? I have turned the backside
of the shoulder area backwards so the gathers of the shoulder look like the
painting...and will tack them downover the silk lining, but the lining is
still exposed in all its plainess. I have been unable to find any
explanation of how this was done.

Or, might the error be at the end of the artist's brush? He chose to try to
capture the total dazzle of the gown?

Kathleen

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Tania wrote:

> As you get closer to the industrial revolution, the more the need for sources
> for paper increase, which is only made good by the invention of the woodpulp
> paper (I do bookbinding as a hobby too), which is by many still counted as
> inferior to ragpaper
> 
My husband and I own a printing company. Paper with fabric content is still
superior to paper that's all wood pulp, or at least it's more expensive.
Most paper is all wood pulp, or at least most paper that is produced in any
quantity. 25% cotton paper is the most typical paper made in bulk for
business use. There are all kinds of fun papers available in small
quantities. A few years ago, a great little company made paper out of old
blue jeans. Don't know if it's still around anymore...

I remember the television program "Connections" from my youth saying that
after the Black Plague paper production soared because of the huge
quantities of linen available from dead people. I don't know if that's
really true.

Gail Finke

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 0f  belts and hanging sleeves
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At 17:46 11/12/2006, you wrote:
>Ahah on the Swiss belt.  I have severalbut did not know they had a name.
>
>
>
>And alas, I do mean the Ditchley"
>And thankyou Cindy for the notes on construction...even for a doll!
>I am still floundering about the "inside out/outside in."
>
>
>As illustrated in Arnold and elsewhere, I understand the the longer 
>sleeves are an actual 'tube' in part.  How does it hang for this 
>gown so that it (1) contains the inner true sleeve and(2) also 
>reveal the elaborate matching quality of the gown. According to the 
>painting, this sleeve is as long as the skirt. I made the lining 
>just as Cindy suggests but cannot get the right effect when the 
>inner sleeve is inserted and there slis my problem.
>
>Another small query, what is the visible red one can see throught 
>the space beneath the left arm?  This was originally why I thought I 
>was seeing this "Cape".

According to Hunnisett that is a second skirt, just showing at the 
back. I think there may be one or two, in Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe, 
but am away from it right now, so cannot confirm.

Suzi

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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>,
        Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 18:25:12 +0000
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Yes, there were laws, but IIRC, the purpose was to keep unscrupulous weavers and merchants from selling cloth at a higher cost just because they could say it was "woven with "blank".  They'd just leave out the 'percentage' that "blank".  Just like the other guilds, they kept a close watch on their members, for fraud.  I think that there might some examples of guild members being publicly punished, such as bakers, and other such folks. 

Queen Elizabeth, at the urging of different guilds, to do some proclamations, but nothing specific comes to mind. Drat!     

I seem to remember reading somewhere that one of the Italian city-state guilds had even instigated the use of color coding the selvedges, to keep track.  

I'm away from my books, so don't can't verify right now.  And my memory may be playing me false!  Anyone who can help with those vague memories or let me know that my memory might be out of kilter, please post!

Well, back to work...
Elena/Gia
-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net> 

> I've read "The Devil's Cloth" and I agree that there are some interesting-- 
> and sometimes far fetched -- ideas presented there. I remember seeing a 
> painting right after I read the book. It was John the Baptist baptizing 
> Jesus. Jesus is wearing a striped undergarment. Somehow I doubt that He 
> would not be wearing something that was questionable-- even if it is a 
> painting. 
> 
> Just as a side note. I made the Beatrice dress. IMO the stripes have to be 
> spliced in or applied. I remember the stripes doing domething funky around 
> the shoulders. Remember too, that this is a postumous picture of her-- she 
> died in childbed (the baby she lost is kneeling next to her in the 
> picture)-- so she wouldn't be posing in the dress, anyway. 
> 
> As for stripes themselves-- everything woven would have to be yarn dyed, 
> unless there are two different fibers used. Then two chemically different 
> dyes, formulated to work with one of the fibers, could be dumped into the 
> same pot. This is a modern dye method and I am not sure how far back it 
> goes. 
> 
> But wasn't there laws about mixing two fibers in a cloth? 
> 
> Monica 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message----- 
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On 
> Behalf Of Cat Dancer 
> Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 6:08 PM 
> To: Historical Costume 
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt 
> 
> 
> On Wed, 6 Dec 2006 tearoses@aol.com wrote: 
> 
> > Ooo, a whole book about it! Thanks! 
> 
> I don't remember where I found my copy. It's a fascinating book even if 
> some of his theories are off-the-wall. :-) The one thing it did do was to 
> get us to look critically at portrayals and look for themes and such. 
> 
> > 
> > Pixel, is there any way of knowing if the sumptuary laws meant woven-in 
> stripes, applied stripes or pieced stripes? 
> > 
> > That painting with Mary Magdalen looked like they might be applied. 
> 
> The Castilian law specifies types of cloth (which I will have to look up 
> when I get home) but the London law just says 'rayed cloth'. [I highly 
> recommend /Governance of the consuming passions : a history of sumptuary 
> law/ by Alan Hunt, if you want to dig deeper.] The rayed cloth of the 
> London law is probably woven-in stripes, stripes being what you, the 
> weaver, do if you have leftover yarns but not enough of any one color to 
> do anything useful with. I want to say that cloth woven of dyed wool is 
> going to be cheaper than cloth that is woven and then dyed, but I don't 
> have enough knowledge of the medieval textile industry to be saying that. 
> [Here is where someone who does, steps in and corrects me. ;-)] Certainly 
> the comments in the inventories and accounts are specific that rayed cloth 
> is for the members of the household fairly far down on the social 
> scale--the valets and such. 
> 
> What we've found, in going over some amazingly huge number of 
> illuminations, frescos, panel paintings, book illustrations, etc., is that 
> when someone is portrayed in stripes and/or parti-colour, that person is 
> somehow a social inferior to at least one of the other people in the 
> artwork. So we see stripes (and sometimes plaids) on musicians and on the 
> people that my consort refers to as "minions"--the various servants, 
> lackeys, etc. that tend to hang around important people in the art. 
> 
> Except in the Manesse Codex, where I suspect that stripes indicate someone 
> who is a fop or otherwise on the edge of fashion. Note that that's only a 
> hypothesis--it hasn't made it to theory yet. ;-) 
> 
> > 
> > Thanks to everyone who responded! I love this kind of conversation with 
> you guys! 
> > 
> > Tea Rose 
> 
> Anything to geek about stuff that isn't work! 
> 
> Pixel 
> _______________________________________________ 
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> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Met Museum Bulletin
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Oh please think of me with the 1695 gown and all the 18th century things?

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Helen Pinto" <hdpinto@verizon.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2006 11:18 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Met Museum Bulletin


> In the process of (finally) unpacking my books, I've been finding things 
> that could use a home other than mine.  I have a Metropolitan Museum of 
> Art Bulletin from back in the days when they sent members these glossy 
> books every quarter.  It's from the costume collection and contains large, 
> high-quality pictures of garments from 1695 through the early 1950's, 
> including microphotographs of some of the embroidered detail of the 
> garments.  It's nice to look at, but way past anything I'm really 
> interested in.
> So...  I will scan and send photos of anything that someone fancies, and 
> the whole thing can belong to the first person who asks for it.  (You have 
> two weeks to ask for the pictures, then I'll mail it.)  The highlights:
>
> - Complete embroidered woman's dress from 1695
> - Four men's 18th c embroidered coats, one uncut, one with original 
> embroidery cartoon, one with pants and vest
> - Men's banyans
> - Assorted women's 18c dresses, one with panniers, most sack-backed, all 
> embroidered or hand-painted, 1740's - 1795
> - Assorted women's 19c outfits, day dresses, evening wear, several from 
> each decade
> - Assorted women's 20c outfits, evening wear, suits, etc, up to the 50's
>
>                      -Helen/Aidan
>
>
> -
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] wool/worsted was Re: striped skirt
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Not quite. It has to do with the fiber length and the way the fiber is 
prepared for spinning. Worsted was combed long staple and woolen was carded 
short staple that is spun to make thread. Because combing lays fibers along 
the length of the thread, it makes a stronger thread, but woolen can be 
fulled and a nap raised and sheared.

The progression in history was combed (worsted...wasn't called that until 
much later), half worsted (combed warp, carded weft), then woolen. Like 
most generalities, this is over-simplified (Romans also had napped and 
sheared wool textiles).

Early wheel spun thread was deemed too weak to take the stresses as warp, 
causing an inferior cloth. There were quite sensible reasons for the guild 
regulations: it has to do with reputation, market and getting premium 
prices. Since textile towns (and their guilds) lived or died.. quite 
literally.. based on the sales of their products, they were not inclined to 
take too many unnecessary risks.

Beth

At 11:17 AM 12/11/2006, you wrote:
>Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 12:09:30 -0500
>From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
>
>Worsted vs woolen-- pretty funny, since both are wool. Worsted is just a
>fine spun wool.
>Monica

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Subject: [h-cost] Mixing fibers
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Aha... looks like the topic has headed in a direction that I am very
interested and currently looking into.  What I'm trying to find is
evidence of when wool and silk might first have been spun together to
form a thread or yarn.  Not that I'm making copious headway at the
moment, but it's one of those questions currently being pursued.

Any have an answer?

Thanks,
Mari / Bridgette

On 12/11/06, E House <formfunc@formfunction.org> wrote:
> I couldn't quote you chapter and verse at the moment, but I've run across
> quite a few regulations/laws about mixing fibers & fiber content.  From what
> I can remember, they all boiled down to either quality control, or truth in
> advertising, and a lot of them were pushed by whichever guild applied.  The
> only source I can think of for examples at the moment is Mizzoui's cotton
> book, which I don't have, or possibly textiler hausrat, which ditto.
>
> -E House
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] question about a book
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Hello,
I would like to thank all you who answered my question about this book.
As i was after a book with many pictures in it, and thoaght it must be full 
of those for that price, it was very nice of you to warn me about buying it.

Many thanks for your help

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: [h-cost] textiles was Re: striped skirt
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Many cities, not just the Italian ones used color coded selvages.. and 
there were cases of other cities counterfeiting them. I believe I read 
about these in various economic history books studying the wool trade, 
probably Carus-Wilson or Bridbury. Lead cloth seals were also used to mark 
the origin of the textiles.

Lead cloth seals were used up to modern times. I got a bolt of cotton the 
other year with one on it!

I know of no cases of mixing fibers in the thread in Medieval (or earlier) 
Europe (with the possible exception of dog/wool blends in the Greenland 
finds). Many cases of mixing threads in a cloth however (some quite 
famous): silk warp/cotton weft (mulham), linen warp/cotton weft (fustian), 
linen/woolen (linsey-woolsey) and  silk/woolen come to mind.

Beth

At 12:38 PM 12/11/2006, you wrote:
>Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 18:25:12 +0000
>From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
>Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
>
>Yes, there were laws, but IIRC, the purpose was to keep unscrupulous 
>weavers and merchants from selling cloth at a higher cost just because 
>they could say it was "woven with "blank".  They'd just leave out the 
>'percentage' that "blank".  Just like the other guilds, they kept a close 
>watch on their members, for fraud.  I think that there might some examples 
>of guild members being publicly punished, such as bakers, and other such 
>folks.
>
>Queen Elizabeth, at the urging of different guilds, to do some 
>proclamations, but nothing specific comes to mind. Drat!
>
>I seem to remember reading somewhere that one of the Italian city-state 
>guilds had even instigated the use of color coding the selvedges, to keep 
>track.
>
>I'm away from my books, so don't can't verify right now.  And my memory 
>may be playing me false!  Anyone who can help with those vague memories or 
>let me know that my memory might be out of kilter, please post!
>
>Well, back to work...
>Elena/Gia

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I always loved the idea, it helped out the Set Production people.

All you had to do is make sure that the 'outside' door was always on the same wall,, and VIOLA!! instant set changes without trying to figure out where to put the new room/ hallways/ pool/ art gallery/ wardrobe room.... without giving the floor plan people fits...

Katheryne
who still has her Dr. Who Fan Club of America t-shirt, and 36 VCR tapes of Dr Who

Obligatory Historic Cotume note: I'm right now in the process of making a linen lined wool 12th Century Tunic.. Although being slightly alergic to wool is proving to be interesting.

----- Original Message -----
From: Debloughcostumes@aol.com

> > h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
>  
> > Tardis?
> > --Sue
> 
> the police box from dr who (time and relative dimension in space 
> - does knowing that make me a dweeb??)
> 
> as in seems to be much bigger inside than it looks from the 
> outside - must be cos can never find anything...:o)
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From: purplkat@optonline.net
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 770
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Status: RO

The original one was BLUE - because at the time the production people got it out of a Junk Yard. 

At the time it was created all of the Police Boxes were being slowly phased out and red Phone Booths were being phased in.

So NOW they are red, the original Tardis was blue and was blue through 5 Doctors.

Katheryne
Dr Who dweeb

----- Original Message -----
From: Alexandria Doyle 

> I don't know, in my house it was my 8-year old granddaughter 
> arguing with my 27 year old son whether it was red or blue...
> 
> alex
> 
> 
 Debloughcostumes@aol.com  wrote:>

> > h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
> >
> >Tardis?
> > > --Sue
> >
> > the police box from dr who (time and relative dimension in 
> space - does knowing that make me a dweeb??)
> >
> > as in seems to be much bigger inside than it looks from the 
> outside - must be cos can never find anything...:o)
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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: blue jean paper
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I checked it out, you can still buy it. But here's what I mean by expensive.

This site:

http://www.thepapermillstore.com/catalog/Blue-Jean-Bond-28-lb-Bond-paper-Rea
m-p-9285.html

sells the paper. I don't know what mill makes it, and the price given here
is certainly not what I would pay wholeslae. But it's almost $42 for 500
sheets! Considering that you can buy office copy paper for about $4 for 500
sheets, that's an expensive ream of paper. Might be nice for all the sewers
and costumers, though...

Gail Finke

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On Dec 11, 2006, at 9:23 AM, Debloughcostumes@aol.com wrote:

>> Police telephone boxes no longer exist at all; they became obsolete
>> when the police got personal radios.
>
> there's still a police box somewhere in wakefield (forget where  
> exactly) in
> yorkshire - but it's brick built (looks a bit like a small signal  
> box).

There's also one in London outside King's Cross Station.

-- 
andy trembley, Bitchy Design Queen - http://www.bovil.com/

Play Internet Argument-Losing Bingo!
<http://www.shortpacked.com/d/20060405.html>

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Status: RO

Dear h-costumers,
 
As I went about my Christmas shopping with my lists from my college age  
children who all want cds and dvds for gifts now, I was at Borders Bookstore and  
(having printed a few cupons from the internet from their site) I was ablel to 
 get 25% savings on a book and a cd. Browsing about the boxed dvd sets my 
eyes  happend upon "Elizabeth R" with Glenda Jackson -- the very one I have been  
longing for for ages!!  I saw it years ago when it first came out, but with  
the price of either vhs or dvd, I couldn't afford my dream.I have been  doing 
Reniassance faires for 15 years now and this was the gold standard for  
costuming.  I especially liked the headgear.  However, , this time I had a cupon for 
 40% off a boxed dvd set @ $70.00!!   Yes, indeed, I bought it and  told my 
husband "Thank you for my Christmas present!"   
 
I just had to spill it to folks I know would understand.  
 
Donna Scarfe
Fyne Hats By Felicity
Period Hats for Past Ages
www.fynehatsbyfelicity.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Tardis
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I have one in my garage (don't ask),

-C.


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Hi,

I am so happy.
Finally I made my 1860 dress so that I really like it.
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19woman/Victorian/Victorian.html

I wore it at the Anton Pieck Parade in Haarlem (the Netherlands).
We had so much fun.
There are some more pictures here (click on galerij in the menu on the left)
http://www.de_zwarte_zwaan.dds.nl/index2.html

Greetings,
       Deredere


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1860 dress
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Status: RO

At 02:33 PM 12/11/2006, you wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I am so happy.
>Finally I made my 1860 dress so that I really like it.
>http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19woman/Victorian/Victorian.html
>
>I wore it at the Anton Pieck Parade in Haarlem (the Netherlands).
>We had so much fun.
>There are some more pictures here (click on galerij in the menu on the left)
>http://www.de_zwarte_zwaan.dds.nl/index2.html
>
>Greetings,
>       Deredere


Very nice job on your dress, Deredere!  The gentlemen looked good, too. ;-)


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1860 dress
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It looks beautiful! Thank you for sharing!

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
Creating a Circa 1798 - 1805 Empire Gown
http://marjoriegilbert.net/album_30_028.htm
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Deredere Galbraith" <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 5:33 PM
Subject: [h-cost] 1860 dress


> Hi,
>
> I am so happy.
> Finally I made my 1860 dress so that I really like it.
> http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19woman/Victorian/Victorian.html
>
> I wore it at the Anton Pieck Parade in Haarlem (the Netherlands).
> We had so much fun.
> There are some more pictures here (click on galerij in the menu on the 
> left)
> http://www.de_zwarte_zwaan.dds.nl/index2.html
>
> Greetings,
>       Deredere
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Dec 11 19:18:38 2006
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cockades-French vs Scottish?  Instructions?
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Status: RO

Hi. The unit website that you referenced is an old one (the unit, not 
the website) of mine, so I might perhaps chime in (as might Kathy and 
Dave if they so choose..) The Toorie is the tassel on the top of the 
bonnet, having nothing to do with the cockade. The history of the 
cockade is that of displaying ones unit or political affiliation on the 
front of the bonnet. Generally, the Scots cockade is of a cluster of 
ribbons in the color of the Regiment, Commander or Affiliation (say, for 
example, blue for Covenanter or Red for Royalist during the ECW period). 
The Scots cockade most commonly recognized now (worn on modern Scots 
Regimental headwear) is a single piece of black ribbon rutched in the 
middle, laid longways on the cap. This, I believe, comes from the final 
Scots uprising of the '45, where the troops loyal to Charles wore a 
white saltire cross ribbon (the saltire of Scotland), and the Government 
troops opposing them wore pretty much the opposite in, well, opposition. 
After the rebellion (or as I like to think of it, Restoration) was put 
down, all Government (loyal) Scots troops adopted the black cockade. The 
French version appears to be either in a single color (whichever color 
opposed the Monarchy, red, IIRC) or the tricolor, and appears to be 
circularly shaped as opposed to the bowtie shaped Scots version. It all 
depends on what period and what political affiliation is needed to 
create what you are looking to do. First, find out what period you are 
recreating. Please feel free to send me a note and perhaps I can be of 
some assistance. Cheers, Mike T.


>A friend asked me to find out about instructions for making a Scottish Cockade.  In my internet search it appears that there may be a significant difference between the two types.  
>
>
>  
>
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	Mon, 11 Dec 2006 16:41:14 PST
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 16:41:14 -0800 (PST)
From: Chris <emeraldepona@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1860 dress
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Beautiful!!!  Thanks for sharing :)

Deredere Galbraith <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl> wrote:  Hi,

I am so happy.
Finally I made my 1860 dress so that I really like it.
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19woman/Victorian/Victorian.html

I wore it at the Anton Pieck Parade in Haarlem (the Netherlands).
We had so much fun.
There are some more pictures here (click on galerij in the menu on the left)
http://www.de_zwarte_zwaan.dds.nl/index2.html

Greetings,
Deredere


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Dec 11 19:54:11 2006
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] another delay: A-S Cloth
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 19:59:31 -0500
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On Monday 11 December 2006 10:36 am, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
> OK. Just got the word: Cloth and Clothing in Anglo-Saxon England, AD
> 450-700 by Penelope Rogers has been delayed again.. now April 2007 release
> date. I will only have had it on order for two years....
>

Aw, nuts.  And I was hoping finally to see it for Christmas.....  :-(

Thanks for the update; I was thinking of calling David Brown Book Company 
myself to check the status; now I don't have to.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Costume coup happy dance!
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 20:01:30 -0500
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On Monday 11 December 2006 4:31 pm, FyneHats2@aol.com wrote:
> Dear h-costumers,
>
> As I went about my Christmas shopping with my lists from my college age
> children who all want cds and dvds for gifts now, I was at Borders
> Bookstore and (having printed a few cupons from the internet from their
> site) I was ablel to get 25% savings on a book and a cd. Browsing about the
> boxed dvd sets my eyes  happend upon "Elizabeth R" with Glenda Jackson --
> the very one I have been longing for for ages!!  I saw it years ago when it
> first came out, but with the price of either vhs or dvd, I couldn't afford
> my dream.I have been  doing Reniassance faires for 15 years now and this
> was the gold standard for costuming.  I especially liked the headgear. 
> However, , this time I had a cupon for 40% off a boxed dvd set @ $70.00!!  
> Yes, indeed, I bought it and  told my husband "Thank you for my Christmas
> present!"
>
> I just had to spill it to folks I know would understand.

Congratulations on your coup!


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost


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Status: RO

Merry Xmas to all!!

Do anyone knows where can I find White Buff Leather?

Jose

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There's also one in London outside King's Cross Station.

ooh, is it still there?

last time I was there there was so much work being done I didn't notice
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Subject: [h-cost] Any "Tudor Tailor"ers?
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Has anyone yet made any of the patterns from the Tudor Tailor book
yet? I'm currently making a pair of venetians and am struggling to
figure out the pocket. Please feel free to email me off list.

Allison T.
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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Any "Tudor Tailor"ers?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hi Allison,
   
  There is an unofficial yahoo group for readers of the book. Ninya is also on the list, and often gives answers.
   
  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Tudor_Tailor_Reader/

  And yes, I've just made a Henrician gown from some info in the book, and info from Hunnisett's book, too.
   
  Kimiko
   
   
  
"A. Thurman" <athurman@gmail.com> wrote:
  Has anyone yet made any of the patterns from the Tudor Tailor book
yet? I'm currently making a pair of venetians and am struggling to
figure out the pocket. Please feel free to email me off list.

Allison T.
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---------------------------------
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
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Au contraire! There's a huge amount of difference between the two--just ask
any skilled spinner, and many weavers and knitters as well.  The original
processing of the fiber is different, the spinning methods are different,
the end results are different.  Fineness has little to do with it--I'm
actually in the middle of spinning some laceweight singles out of
hand-carded targhee, and I'm deliberately spinning them with a woolen
technique.
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "monica spence" <monicaspence@optonline.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 10:09 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt


> Yup. Thanks for the post. That is the kind of thing I was remembering.
>
> Worsted vs woolen-- pretty funny, since both are wool. Worsted is just a
> fine spun wool.
> Monica


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Status: RO

You know that lovely Italian/English book that we all wanted because of the
Eleonora of Toledo stuff?  I suggested to Ian Stevens of David Brown Books
that maybe they could get hold of it and distribute it.  Michael Shamansky
Art Books was the only place I managed to get mine a year ago.  Here is what
Ian has  found out:

By the way.  The Inventories of Henry VIII (Starkey ed.) have been marked
back down to $72 on their website.  You don't want to know what new books
they have though!  Anyone want a nice facsimile edition of the Luttrell
Psalter?


At 12:28 AM 12/9/2006, you wrote:
>Is there any way that Oxbow or David Brown could get hold of  Moda a
Firenze
>1540-1580 from the Museum that publishes it?

Hi Wanda,

The publisher tells us that the book is out of print! So, buy one if
you get the chance (whatever the cost!). Yikes!

Best,

Ian



Ian Stevens
Vice President
The David Brown Book Company
Box 511 (28 Main St)
OAKVILLE, CT 06779

Tel: 860-945-9329
Fax: 860-945-9468

www.oxbowbooks.com

The David Brown Book Company is the US arm of Oxbow Books. DBBC
distributes and markets scholarly and specialist books to the North
American academic community. The company has a strong focus on books
in the following disciplines: Archaeology, Classics, the Ancient Near
East, Ancient Egypt, Medieval Studies, Religion, Literary Studies &
Linguistics, Food History and Genealogy




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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy4@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Tardis
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Status: RO

At 04:53 PM 12/11/2006, you wrote:
>I have one in my garage (don't ask),
>
>-C.
>
Now you KNOW we have to ask!

Dianne 

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Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 21:41:47 -0600
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Status: RO

Thank you for this generous offer!

The women's 19th C. and 20th C. outfits, et al., might be useful for  
teaching purposes at the university where I work -- but I'm a  
librarian, not a Textiles & Clothing professor, so would you be  
willing to send scans to me and I can contact the right people?   
(Well, to be honest, we'd probably like to see everything!  But I  
don't want to seem greedy.)  If it's too much trouble then never  
mind....

Suzanne
(You may use the address I'm posting from, OR slesar@iastate.edu)


----- Original Message ----- From: "Helen Pinto" <hdpinto@verizon.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2006 11:18 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Met Museum Bulletin



> In the process of (finally) unpacking my books, I've been finding  
> things that could use a home other than mine.  I have a  
> Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin from back in the days when they  
> sent members these glossy books every quarter.  It's from the  
> costume collection and contains large, high-quality pictures of  
> garments from 1695 through the early 1950's, including  
> microphotographs of some of the embroidered detail of the  
> garments.  It's nice to look at, but way past anything I'm really  
> interested in.
> So...  I will scan and send photos of anything that someone  
> fancies, and the whole thing can belong to the first person who  
> asks for it.  (You have two weeks to ask for the pictures, then  
> I'll mail it.)  The highlights:
>
> - Complete embroidered woman's dress from 1695
> - Four men's 18th c embroidered coats, one uncut, one with original  
> embroidery cartoon, one with pants and vest
> - Men's banyans
> - Assorted women's 18c dresses, one with panniers, most sack- 
> backed, all embroidered or hand-painted, 1740's - 1795
> - Assorted women's 19c outfits, day dresses, evening wear, several  
> from each decade
> - Assorted women's 20c outfits, evening wear, suits, etc, up to the  
> 50's
>
>                      -Helen/Aidan
>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Dec 11 22:51:39 2006
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Status: RO

I know we've discussed this before, but not in terms of cost.  I will 
be teaching a costume history class at a community college next 
semester and would like to order textbooks for the students to buy.  
Cost is really a factor at community colleges, so I was wondering if 
any of you could recommend a good reasonably priced text.    Has anyone 
used Doug Russell's book before?  He was one of my first costume profs 
and I loved the way he taught.  I have 2 of the books he wrote and am 
tempted to use one of them, as I like it and think it might be less 
expensive than some others, but I thought I'd get your opinions.

Sylrog

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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mode di Firenzie
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Status: RO

Hi Wanda, 
   
  I am trying to get the Henry VIII book for my Christmas present from my husband. Must remember to sweet talk him tonight after the kids are in bed.
   
  And oh, my, I am glad I got my copy of the Moda book. Thanks for the heads up.
   
  Kimiko
  

Wanda Pease <wandap@hevanet.com> wrote:
    You know that lovely Italian/English book that we all wanted because of the
Eleonora of Toledo stuff? <snip>
By the way. The Inventories of Henry VIII (Starkey ed.) have been marked
back down to $72 on their website. <snip>
  The publisher tells us that the book is out of print! So, buy one if
you get the chance (whatever the cost!). Yikes!

Best,

Ian


 
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Status: RO

Sylrog,

What time period are you covering in the class?

Penny Ladnier, 
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] question about a book
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Status: RO

Ann,

The newer addition is a lot better.  In my class I just refer to certain 
pages in the book. My class starts in 1840 and ends at 1970.  Those sections 
are good in the book for an overview.   I just remembered that I bought the 
book used on Amazon not eBay.  My book was used and was in perfect 
condition.  When I was a student, I used my book for three costume history 
classes.  So I got my money out of it.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 8:43 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] question about a book


>
> In a message dated 12/10/2006 7:27:38 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
>
> Found  this book. Its rather expensive, and it doesnt say much about the
> book.
> Do any here know it?
>
>
>
>
> This is one of the standard history of costume texts used here in the 
> U.S.
> I haven't seen the latest edition--I have the last one.  It is  just that, 
> a
> very general survey.  I'm not sure, Bjarne, whether you would  find it 
> very
> useful.  I would say that, if you do not have any of the  general survey 
> books,
> you ought to have at least one.  How expensive is  it?
>
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Tardis
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Dianne & Greg Stucki wrote:
> At 04:53 PM 12/11/2006, you wrote:
>> I have one in my garage (don't ask),
>>
>> -C.
>>
> Now you KNOW we have to ask!
No, if she said she had one in her kitchen, asking would be imperative. 
Garage, not so much.

(and I know why at least one person would have a police box in their 
kitchen)

andy
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Mode di Firenzie
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 22:53:41 -0800
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Status: RO

just go to the http://www.oxbowbooks.com website and click on the $ and do
the search for the Inventories.   Warning, Warning Will Robinson. The books
that are on the same page are DANGEROUS to your pocketbook!

Wanda
>
> Hi Wanda,
>
>   I am trying to get the Henry VIII book for my Christmas present
> from my husband. Must remember to sweet talk him tonight after
> the kids are in bed.
>
>   And oh, my, I am glad I got my copy of the Moda book. Thanks
> for the heads up.
>
>   Kimiko
>
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Tardis in garage
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Status: RO

> At 04:53 PM 12/11/2006, you wrote:
> >I have one in my garage (don't ask),

> >
> Now you KNOW we have to ask!

I will no more tell why I have a tardis in the garage than I will tell why I 
have been excommunicated. So there,

-C.


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Subject: [h-cost] Tardis in garage 2
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Status: RO

> >I have one in my garage (don't ask),
> >

> Now you KNOW we have to ask!


Okay, okay. You know when you make a prop and store it because you know that 
one day it will come in useful but it never does...?

-C.


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From: "Katy Bishop" <katybishop64@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] question about a book
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Status: RO

What is the year of the "newer" edition (mine is 1991 or 1992 I think)

Katy

On 12/12/06, Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:
> Ann,
>
> The newer addition is a lot better.  In my class I just refer to certain
> pages in the book. My class starts in 1840 and ends at 1970.  Those sections
> are good in the book for an overview.   I just remembered that I bought the
> book used on Amazon not eBay.  My book was used and was in perfect
> condition.  When I was a student, I used my book for three costume history
> classes.  So I got my money out of it.
>
> Penny Ladnier,
> Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeencyclopedia.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 8:43 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] question about a book
>
>
> >
> > In a message dated 12/10/2006 7:27:38 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> > drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
> >
> > Found  this book. Its rather expensive, and it doesnt say much about the
> > book.
> > Do any here know it?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > This is one of the standard history of costume texts used here in the
> > U.S.
> > I haven't seen the latest edition--I have the last one.  It is  just that,
> > a
> > very general survey.  I'm not sure, Bjarne, whether you would  find it
> > very
> > useful.  I would say that, if you do not have any of the  general survey
> > books,
> > you ought to have at least one.  How expensive is  it?
> >
> > Ann Wass
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Status: RO

The dress is beautiful! I love that shade of red. All the details look just right.
 
Karen
Seamstrix

-- Deredere Galbraith <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl> wrote:
Hi,

I am so happy.
Finally I made my 1860 dress so that I really like it.
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19woman/Victorian/Victorian.html

I wore it at the Anton Pieck Parade in Haarlem (the Netherlands).
We had so much fun.
There are some more pictures here (click on galerij in the menu on the left)
http://www.de_zwarte_zwaan.dds.nl/index2.html

Greetings,
       Deredere


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Status: RO

Quoting Wanda Pease <wandap@hevanet.com>:

*snip*

> At 12:28 AM 12/9/2006, you wrote:
>> Is there any way that Oxbow or David Brown could get hold of  Moda a
> Firenze
>> 1540-1580 from the Museum that publishes it?
>
> Hi Wanda,
>
> The publisher tells us that the book is out of print! So, buy one if
> you get the chance (whatever the cost!). Yikes!
>

*ACK* My copy was supposed to have been here early in November and  
I've not seen hide nor hare of it yet.  :-(  Maybe there will be  
enough demand that they'll reprint it.

*whimper*

I want my book!

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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From: "Laurie Taylor" <costumeraz@qwest.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Costume history text
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 22:16:48 -0700
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Status: RO

Sylrog,

I too studied with Prof. Russell, just a very few years before he passed
away.  I love his book and use it as an additional reference in my costume
history class.  I use the book chosen by my department as our primary book,
but the Russell text does so much more to make the connections between what
people wore and why they wore it.  Studying costume history with Prof.
Russell and his book did so much to spark my interest in history in general.

FWIW.

Laurie T.
Phoenix

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 8:50 PM
To: Historical Costume
Cc: TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [h-cost] Costume history text

I know we've discussed this before, but not in terms of cost.  I will 
be teaching a costume history class at a community college next 
semester and would like to order textbooks for the students to buy.  
Cost is really a factor at community colleges, so I was wondering if 
any of you could recommend a good reasonably priced text.    Has anyone 
used Doug Russell's book before?  He was one of my first costume profs 
and I loved the way he taught.  I have 2 of the books he wrote and am 
tempted to use one of them, as I like it and think it might be less 
expensive than some others, but I thought I'd get your opinions.

Sylrog

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
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Status: RO

Dawn,

I am so sorry for replying late.  The bodice does open in the front.

Penny Ladnier, 
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 
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From: "Becky Rautine" <zeartiste@hotmail.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tardis in garage
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Status: RO


Do you mean one of those mystical boxes Dr. Who had? Or something else?
Sincerely,
Rebecca Rautine




From: stilskin@netspace.net.au
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Subject: [h-cost] Tardis in garage
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 > At 04:53 PM 12/11/2006, you wrote:
 > >I have one in my garage (don't ask),

 > >
 > Now you KNOW we have to ask!

I will no more tell why I have a tardis in the garage than I will tell why I
have been excommunicated. So there,

-C.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tardis in garage 2
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Status: RO

Boy, do I know that one -- not just props, also costumes

Kate
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 7:52 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Tardis in garage 2


>> >I have one in my garage (don't ask),
>> >
>
>> Now you KNOW we have to ask!
>
>
> Okay, okay. You know when you make a prop and store it because you know 
> that
> one day it will come in useful but it never does...?
>
> -C.
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au
>
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> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Costume coup happy dance!
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Status: RO

Hi
Congratulations with your DVD.
I know excactly how you feel, i still think its the best ever made!

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <FyneHats2@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 10:31 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Costume coup happy dance!


> Dear h-costumers,
>
> As I went about my Christmas shopping with my lists from my college age
> children who all want cds and dvds for gifts now, I was at Borders 
> Bookstore and
> (having printed a few cupons from the internet from their site) I was 
> ablel to
> get 25% savings on a book and a cd. Browsing about the boxed dvd sets my
> eyes  happend upon "Elizabeth R" with Glenda Jackson -- the very one I 
> have been
> longing for for ages!!  I saw it years ago when it first came out, but 
> with
> the price of either vhs or dvd, I couldn't afford my dream.I have been 
> doing
> Reniassance faires for 15 years now and this was the gold standard for
> costuming.  I especially liked the headgear.  However, , this time I had a 
> cupon for
> 40% off a boxed dvd set @ $70.00!!   Yes, indeed, I bought it and  told my
> husband "Thank you for my Christmas present!"
>
> I just had to spill it to folks I know would understand.
>
> Donna Scarfe
> Fyne Hats By Felicity
> Period Hats for Past Ages
> www.fynehatsbyfelicity.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Costume history text
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Can you send out the titles and ISBN numbers for these books?  I teach as 
well, and could really use a good text, sounds like this would be very much 
in keeping with how I teach costume history...the what/why sort of thing.

Kelly



An insolent reply from a polite person is a bad sign.


Hippocrates (c.460-c.370 bc), Greek physician





>From: "Laurie Taylor" <costumeraz@qwest.net>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: RE: [h-cost] Costume history text
>Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 22:16:48 -0700
>
>Sylrog,
>
>I too studied with Prof. Russell, just a very few years before he passed
>away.  I love his book and use it as an additional reference in my costume
>history class.  I use the book chosen by my department as our primary book,
>but the Russell text does so much more to make the connections between what
>people wore and why they wore it.  Studying costume history with Prof.
>Russell and his book did so much to spark my interest in history in 
>general.
>
>FWIW.
>
>Laurie T.
>Phoenix
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
>Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
>Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 8:50 PM
>To: Historical Costume
>Cc: TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [h-cost] Costume history text
>
>I know we've discussed this before, but not in terms of cost.  I will
>be teaching a costume history class at a community college next
>semester and would like to order textbooks for the students to buy.
>Cost is really a factor at community colleges, so I was wondering if
>any of you could recommend a good reasonably priced text.    Has anyone
>used Doug Russell's book before?  He was one of my first costume profs
>and I loved the way he taught.  I have 2 of the books he wrote and am
>tempted to use one of them, as I like it and think it might be less
>expensive than some others, but I thought I'd get your opinions.
>
>Sylrog
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>_______________________________________________
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>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume history text
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 08:00:33 -0700
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That's exactly what I loved about studying costume history with 
Professor Russell.  He really brought it to life by making those 
connections and putting it into perspective.  I've never had another 
teacher who did that.  I want to try to do that with the class I'm 
going to teach, but I feel I need to study so much history first in 
order to get to his level.

So what book is your primary book?

Sylrog



On Dec 11, 2006, at 10:16 PM, Laurie Taylor wrote:

> Sylrog,
>
> I too studied with Prof. Russell, just a very few years before he 
> passed
> away.  I love his book and use it as an additional reference in my 
> costume
> history class.  I use the book chosen by my department as our primary 
> book,
> but the Russell text does so much more to make the connections between 
> what
> people wore and why they wore it.  Studying costume history with Prof.
> Russell and his book did so much to spark my interest in history in 
> general.
>
> FWIW.
>
> Laurie T.
> Phoenix
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] 
> On
> Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
> Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 8:50 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Cc: TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Costume history text
>
> I know we've discussed this before, but not in terms of cost.  I will
> be teaching a costume history class at a community college next
> semester and would like to order textbooks for the students to buy.
> Cost is really a factor at community colleges, so I was wondering if
> any of you could recommend a good reasonably priced text.    Has anyone
> used Doug Russell's book before?  He was one of my first costume profs
> and I loved the way he taught.  I have 2 of the books he wrote and am
> tempted to use one of them, as I like it and think it might be less
> expensive than some others, but I thought I'd get your opinions.
>
> Sylrog
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: "zelda crusher" <laswa@hotmail.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tardis in garage 2
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 07:02:29 -0800
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Status: RO

okay, now how about the excommunication.....

Laurie


>From: stilskin@netspace.net.au
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Tardis in garage 2
>Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 23:52:45 +1100
>
> > >I have one in my garage (don't ask),
> > >
>
> > Now you KNOW we have to ask!
>
>
>Okay, okay. You know when you make a prop and store it because you know 
>that
>one day it will come in useful but it never does...?
>
>-C.
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------
>This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au
>
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From: Cascio Michael <rosenau5@yahoo.com>
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Sorry to send this to the list but the kind offer of
close-up photos from the Met magazine caught my eye.
Could you please e-mail me off-list so I can take you
up on your kind offer to copy some of the pictures.
                                  Thanks,
                                Cassandra

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Status: RO

All of them!  It's a survey class.

On Dec 11, 2006, at 9:51 PM, Penny Ladnier wrote:

> Sylrog,
>
> What time period are you covering in the class?
>
> Penny Ladnier, Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumelibrary.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> www.costumeencyclopedia.com 
> _______________________________________________
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From: ruthanneb@mindspring.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: blue jean paper
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Status: RO

If you choose 24-lb instead of 28-lb, the ream price goes down to $29 something.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
gypsy scholar and amateur costumer
AND creator of a room-size braided rug made of old blue jeans....


-----Original Message-----
>From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
>Sent: Dec 11, 2006 12:48 PM
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] Re: blue jean paper
>
>
>I checked it out, you can still buy it. But here's what I mean by expensive.
>
>This site:
>
>http://www.thepapermillstore.com/catalog/Blue-Jean-Bond-28-lb-Bond-paper-Rea
>m-p-9285.html
>
>sells the paper. I don't know what mill makes it, and the price given here
>is certainly not what I would pay wholeslae. But it's almost $42 for 500
>sheets! Considering that you can buy office copy paper for about $4 for 500
>sheets, that's an expensive ream of paper. Might be nice for all the sewers
>and costumers, though...
>
>Gail Finke
>
>_______________________________________________
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Status: RO

Yum. Can we see the rug?

On Dec 12, 2006, at 11:41 AM, ruthanneb@mindspring.com wrote:

> If you choose 24-lb instead of 28-lb, the ream price goes down to  
> $29 something.
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> gypsy scholar and amateur costumer
> AND creator of a room-size braided rug made of old blue jeans....
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
>> Sent: Dec 11, 2006 12:48 PM
>> To: h-costume@indra.com
>> Subject: [h-cost] Re: blue jean paper
>>
>>
>> I checked it out, you can still buy it. But here's what I mean by  
>> expensive.
>>
>> This site:
>>
>> http://www.thepapermillstore.com/catalog/Blue-Jean-Bond-28-lb-Bond- 
>> paper-Rea
>> m-p-9285.html
>>
>> sells the paper. I don't know what mill makes it, and the price  
>> given here
>> is certainly not what I would pay wholeslae. But it's almost $42  
>> for 500
>> sheets! Considering that you can buy office copy paper for about  
>> $4 for 500
>> sheets, that's an expensive ream of paper. Might be nice for all  
>> the sewers
>> and costumers, though...
>>
>> Gail Finke
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Lauren M. Walker
lauren.walker@comcast.net



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From: ruthanneb@mindspring.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: blue jean paper
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Status: RO

Let me find a clear space in my house (evidently NOT a Tardis because although it's stuffed with stuff it refuses to expand) to lay it out, and I'll take its picture. In advance I have to confess having added a circuit or two of old nightgowns, just for color....
--Ruth Anne

-----Original Message-----
>From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
>Sent: Dec 12, 2006 11:48 AM
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: blue jean paper
>
>Yum. Can we see the rug?
>
>On Dec 12, 2006, at 11:41 AM, ruthanneb@mindspring.com wrote:
>
>> If you choose 24-lb instead of 28-lb, the ream price goes down to  
>> $29 something.
>> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
>> gypsy scholar and amateur costumer
>> AND creator of a room-size braided rug made of old blue jeans....
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
>>> Sent: Dec 11, 2006 12:48 PM
>>> To: h-costume@indra.com
>>> Subject: [h-cost] Re: blue jean paper
>>>
>>>
>>> I checked it out, you can still buy it. But here's what I mean by  
>>> expensive.
>>>
>>> This site:
>>>
>>> http://www.thepapermillstore.com/catalog/Blue-Jean-Bond-28-lb-Bond- 
>>> paper-Rea
>>> m-p-9285.html
>>>
>>> sells the paper. I don't know what mill makes it, and the price  
>>> given here
>>> is certainly not what I would pay wholeslae. But it's almost $42  
>>> for 500
>>> sheets! Considering that you can buy office copy paper for about  
>>> $4 for 500
>>> sheets, that's an expensive ream of paper. Might be nice for all  
>>> the sewers
>>> and costumers, though...
>>>
>>> Gail Finke
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>Lauren M. Walker
>lauren.walker@comcast.net
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] question about a book
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Status: RO

Quoting Katy Bishop <katybishop64@gmail.com>:

> What is the year of the "newer" edition (mine is 1991 or 1992 I think)

I think that's the 2nd edition.  I just lucked onto one for $10.00 --  
the 3rd ed is 2004 or 2005 (IIRC)

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 773
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Status: RO

Katheryne wrote:
>The original one was BLUE - because at the time the production people
got it out of a Junk Yard. 

>At the time it was created all of the Police Boxes were being slowly
phased out and red Phone Booths were >being phased in.

>So NOW they are red, the original Tardis was blue and was blue through
5 Doctors.

Well, no, the red 'phone box had been around since the 1920s - see
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_telephone_box . (There's a link to
"Police box" near the bottom of the page which explains the difference
between them, and the link to "Telephone booth" shows a modern one,
vandalised.)

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor
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From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] "Sewing-machine coup" happy dance!
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Gentles all,
  I visited the local equivalent of a US "thrift Shop" two Friday's back, and came away with 2 in-table-mounted "Singer Stylist Model 457's" for £10GB each, and a clean and well-cared-for Singer Model 66K [ circa 1906-1920] hand-cranked, table-top machine, [the one with the lovely "Lotus" decals] - thrown in, for free. 
  The local Sewing Machine Engineer is servicing them for me now. Both the "Stylists" came with original User manuals, and a full complement of accessories - various types of feet, spare  bobbins, spare needles, original tools and oil bottles.
  These will be kept for use by novice re-enactors who wish to join either our established Companie of the Duke's Leopards, or the SCA-group we are trying to start in our little Isle - to make their own garb and equipment, and/ or tents.
   
  In Service to the Light, and our Dream,
  Matthew,
  in "old" Jersey.

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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My holiday exchange gift just arrived. I haven't yet opened it, but I know
roughly what it is -- only one thing in the world makes *that* sound when
you shake it.

Friday is the first night of Chanukah, which is my family's holiday, so
I'm going to open it then, so there. I want it right now!

--Robin

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Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 12:42:17 -0500
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Costume history text
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Quoting Kelly Grant <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>:

> Can you send out the titles and ISBN numbers for these books?  I teach
> as well, and could really use a good text, sounds like this would be
> very much in keeping with how I teach costume history...the what/why
> sort of thing.

How about this .....

http://www.amazon.com/Costume-History-Style-Douglas-Russell/dp/0131812149
http://www.amazon.com/Survey-Historic-Costume-History-Western/dp/1563673452

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Subject: [h-cost] Props (was Re: Tardis in garage 2
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On Dec 12, 2006, at 5:27 AM, Kate Pinner wrote:
> Boy, do I know that one -- not just props, also costumes

So pimp-time...

Costume-Con 26 (San Jose, April 2008, <http://www.cc26.info/> has  
approached Chris and Christy Bertani (of the Bay Area English Regency  
Society's "Regency Science Fair") to run our "Mad Science Fair," a  
mad-science prop-building competition.

Nothing is firm on this yet.

However...

This could be an opportunity to build props based on discredited  
period scientific theories such as alchemy, so it's not just a  
science fiction & fantasy competition.

If anyone is interested, I'll post more information as things solidify.

-- 
andy trembley, Bitchy Design Queen
http://www.irlm.org/  -  mailto:webmaster@irlm.org
"Anybody who takes this seriously deserves to"
   -- Donna Barr

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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Deredere Galbraith" <Deredere.Galbraith@kabelfoon.nl>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 11:33 PM
Subject: [h-cost] 1860 dress


> Hi,
>
> I am so happy.
> Finally I made my 1860 dress so that I really like it.
> http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19woman/Victorian/Victorian.html


Hi Deredere,
Very nice dress. At first sight i emediately thoaght about a book i had as a 
boy, a swedish book called something like Antie brown, antie green and antie 
purple. Its a book about some orphan children living at tree ladies house. 
They are all dressed in victorian clothing. "Tante brun tante grøn og tante 
lilla."
Thanks for posting for us!

Bjarne 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
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On Sun, 10 Dec 2006, Ann Catelli wrote:

> It's not a skirt, and it's plaid (rather a
> 'window-pane' check), not striped, but do remember,
> please, the cut-off cuff found in London, as published
> in the MOL Textiles & Clothing book.  Tiny stripes (2
> threads?) of dark intersecting stripes of medium &
> light threads, both verticallly and horizontally.  One
> way had more threads than the other.
> Maybe 1300-1450--it's dated more precisely in the
> book.
> (Yes, it's from memory, but I'm being too lazy to look
> it up properly.)

I'm home sick today so I've got nothing to do BUT look up stuff. ;-)

Catalog No. 64, which is the partial sleeve that's on the back cover, 
is checks of madder-dyed and undyed wool, with two darker threads 
outlining the checks. There are 8 warp threads to 6 weft threads per 
check. It's dated 14Q2.

There are other patterns on both twills and tabbies, both stripes and 
checks. Some of the stripes are bands of silk weft on wool warp.
  >
> I'm guessing that stripes & or plaids were just not
> what artists were looking to paint.
> At least this group won't assume that any person in
> plaids/crossed stripes/etc. is Scottish.  :)
>
> Ann in CT

Stripes +/or plaids probably have specific meanings in painterly contexts, 
ones that we no longer know. *sighs*

Pixel
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: re: [h-cost] 0f belts and hanging sleeves
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Subject: [h-cost] 0f  belts and hanging sleeves

>I am working out the problems of interpreting the Darnley Dress for my QEI
>14" doll.  At first, I thought I was looking at a sleeveless coat
>be set to give a cape effect.  On closer examenation, I see that this is
>actually a hanging sleeve...born out by Waugh, Arnold, and Hunnisett.  I
>have worked out the shape and cut but am having problems with  the set. In
>order for the unity of the skirt , bodice and sleeve that bear the
>ornamentation, I can only achieve the look by inserting the hanging sleeve
>outside in.  This means that the lining will actually be the outside fabric.

Kathleen,
Yes, I have done something very much like the Ditchely dress, with a
whole lot less beading.  The specific gown I was copying was the
Eleanor Powis portrait at Powis castle.  I believe what you are seeing
in the Ditchley portrait is two garments. One is a dress (bodice &
skirt) in the French style. Over it, is an open robe or loose gown.
See the Isham or Verney open gowns for styling, cut & construction.

If you get out the National Portrait Gallery catalog (or peruse the
web for a big color version) you'll see that the "background" visible
between Elizabeth's underarm, bodice & sleeve are white like the gown
& sleeves, not blue-gray like the left-half sky or black like the
right-half sky.

>Another small query, what is the visible red one can see throught
>the space beneath the left arm?  This was originally why I thought I
>was seeing this "Cape".

My guess, and I'm no expert, the "red" with all the pleating is the
back of the skirt seen in shadow, while the white/gray triangle above
the red is the interior of an open robe. When I drape my open robe
over the drum I get a bit of squnch back there that looks like pooling
water instead of rayed pleats. Admittedly, I'm looking at a 6x9" color
photo, not the real portrait.

Some contemporary portraits with the open robe:
Eleanor Herbert Lady Powis - unknown artist - Castle Powis
Pregnant lady in White - Marcus Gheerarts c1595
Sarah Blount, Countess Leicester
Unknown Lady - W Segar 1595

Some contemporary garments -- open robe:
V&A museum Isham gown
The Verney gown (JArnold PoF)

I also think that there are drum farthingale-style gowns with the
double sleeve; dont get me wrong.  The main dancing lady in the Bal
for the Duc de Joyeuse is wearing just such a gown.  See also
Elizabeth I by John Bettes.

>Has anyone else attempted this dress "for real"? I have turned the backside
>of the shoulder area backwards so the gathers of the shoulder look like the
>painting...and will tack them downover the silk lining, but the lining is
>still exposed in all its plainess. I have been unable to find any
>explanation of how this was done.

When I did my "tawney sarceonet" gown for a drum farthingale I chose
to make my sleeves removeable & interchangeable.  Then I made the open
robe separately.  The sleeves on the robe are also removeable.  I can
wear two sleeves laced together into one armseye. (There's lacings &
eyelets in a band that goes halfway 'round the armseye (e.g. from the
pectoral, over the shoulder to the shoulder blade).  My hanging
sleeves are shorter like Pfaltzgrafin Dorothea so I can sit at dinner
& not have boorish men stepping on my sleeve.

This seems like a ridiculous amount of work for so tiny a doll, but
for me, and I'm a little taller, it worked pretty well and I can wear
the robe, several gowns and lots of sleeves, foreparts & stomachers in
a variety of ways.

Think of it as an Elizabethan cruisewear emsemble. <grin>

To get the Ditchley look, I would unlace & remove the sleeves from the
open robe. I'd lace the "Phoenix" style sleeve and hanging sleeve
pairs onto the bodice.  Put on the drum, forepart, skirt & bodice.
Pin up skirt ruffles. Toss open robe over the top & pull sleeves
gentle thru the armseyes of the robe. Sweep the body of the coat
backwards over the skirt.  Mine is overly heavy.  I'd skip the lining
or use a lighter weight silk satin next time.  Heh, like I'll redo it.
 There's so many more gowns to make.

My interpretation can be found here:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/hysteria95126/my_photos
You should be able to find the two garments shown separately.
The album is: Costume Brag Book
This is the detailed link as Yahoo sends it out.
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/album?c=hysteria95126&aid=576460762366662489&pid=&wtok=TbrHsiVpa7SfF7Kkcus0iw--&ts=1165960865&.src=ph
Look for the Ivory robe & giant square supportasse.

Your doll sounds like it will be a work of art.  Cant wait to see photos!
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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I got 2 lovely cards from h-costumers today.  One is an IOU of the
most delicious Stuart embroidered sampler.  The other is a charming
thank-you card.  It's nice to know the gift was received & enjoyed.
Happy holiday everything,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Gack! Is she pregnant or is she not? Need your opinions!
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I just sat down to start drafting the underpinnings for this gown http://www.saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/PAM_PICS/Overall.JPG<http://www.saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/PAM_PICS/Overall.JPG>
and all of a sudden realized the gown does not seem symmetrically round. 

Doesn't this seem much further out in the front than everywhere else? 

Do you think she is pregnant?  
Seems a little low for pregnancy.  

Thanks! 

Sg
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Met Museum Bulletin
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Ditto for me!  Thanks!
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Bjarne og Leif Drews<mailto:drewscph@post12.tele.dk> 
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 7:56 AM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Met Museum Bulletin


  Oh please think of me with the 1695 gown and all the 18th century things?

  Bjarne

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gack! Is she pregnant or is she not? Need your opinions!
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Sorry about the link....msn repeats it for what ever reason.  Please copy cut and paste!
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Saragrace Knauf<mailto:wickedfrau@msn.com> 
  To: h-costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 4:00 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] Gack! Is she pregnant or is she not? Need your opinions!


  I just sat down to start drafting the underpinnings for this gown http://www.saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/PAM_PICS/Overall.JPG<http://www.saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/PAM_PICS/Overall.JPG<http://www.saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/PAM_PICS/Overall.JPG<http://www.saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/PAM_PICS/Overall.JPG>>
  and all of a sudden realized the gown does not seem symmetrically round. 

  Doesn't this seem much further out in the front than everywhere else? 

  Do you think she is pregnant?  
  Seems a little low for pregnancy.  

  Thanks! 

  Sg
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From: N Kipar <marquesate@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gack! Is she pregnant or is she not? Need your opinions!
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I don't think she is, unless every other woman of this period who wears her fashionable clothes in the same way, is pregnant on portraits. I have many examples amongst my files that look just like this one.

Nicole


----- Original Message ----
From: Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: h-costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, 12 December, 2006 11:00:47 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Gack! Is she pregnant or is she not? Need your opinions!


I just sat down to start drafting the underpinnings for this gown http://www.saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/PAM_PICS/Overall.JPG<http://www.saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/PAM_PICS/Overall.JPG>
and all of a sudden realized the gown does not seem symmetrically round. 

Doesn't this seem much further out in the front than everywhere else? 

Do you think she is pregnant?  
Seems a little low for pregnancy.  

Thanks! 

Sg
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Saragrace Knauf wrote:
> I just sat down to start drafting the underpinnings for this gown http://www.saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/PAM_PICS/Overall.JPG<http://www.saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/PAM_PICS/Overall.JPG>
> and all of a sudden realized the gown does not seem symmetrically round. 
> 
> Doesn't this seem much further out in the front than everywhere else? 
> 
> Do you think she is pregnant?  
> Seems a little low for pregnancy. 

The feet don't seem to be in the right place either, to connect her legs 
to the top half of her body, so I am inclined to think the distortion is 
an effect of the painter's lack of skill in doing 3/4 portraits. The 
bump on the sitter's right seems to be her hip.


Dawn

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gack! Is she pregnant or is she not? Need your opinions!
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At 03:00 PM 12/12/2006, you wrote:
>I just sat down to start drafting the underpinnings for this gown 
>http://www.saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/PAM_PICS/Overall.JPG<http://www.saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/PAM_PICS/Overall.JPG>
>and all of a sudden realized the gown does not seem symmetrically round.
>
>Doesn't this seem much further out in the front than everywhere else?
>
>Do you think she is pregnant?
>Seems a little low for pregnancy.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Sg

She does look pregnant.  Not only the enlarged belly, but the posture 
reminds me of pregnant friends.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net 

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-----Original Message-----
<http://www.saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/PAM_PICS/Overall.JPG>
> Doesn't this seem much further out in the front than everywhere else?
>
> Do you think she is pregnant?
> Seems a little low for pregnancy.

<<<The feet don't seem to be in the right place either, to connect her legs
to the top half of her body, so I am inclined to think the distortion is an
effect of the painter's lack of skill in doing 3/4 portraits. The
bump on the sitter's right seems to be her hip.
Dawn>>>

And her arms seem to be a bit long


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Quoting zelda crusher <laswa@hotmail.com>:

> okay, now how about the excommunication.....


Neverrrrrrr....bwa-ha-haaa!

-C.


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Yep, Dr Who,

-C.

> Do you mean one of those mystical boxes Dr. Who had? Or something else?



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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
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Subject: [h-cost] Shoulder-strap-less Tudors?
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Status: RO

I'm almost positive someone posted a link about this on here, sometime in 
the past year or so....  Someone made or was in the process of planning an 
early/mid 16thC gown (probably c1540s) with a neckline so wide that they 
just eliminated the shoulder strap part of the bodice entirely.  Can anyone 
remember the topic/link?

-E House 

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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gack! Is she pregnant or is she not? Need your opinions!
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 13:33:12 +1300
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Status: RO

<<I just sat down to start drafting the underpinnings for this gown
http://www.saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/PAM_PICS/Overall.JPG
and all of a sudden realized the gown does not seem symmetrically round. >>

Not unless she's carrying the baby around groin level! Many portraits of
this time show the same effect.

SG the problem with the links is that I suspect you have your email set to
html/rich text not plain text and all urls are thus automatically turned
into links. You should be able to fix the settings, we can in hotmail for
instance and hotmail is part of MSN. Plain text is the format most mailing
lists prefer anyway.

Michaela
http://glittersweet.com
(I'd give a guide to changing the format but I don't have an msn email
address so I'm not sure if the layout is the same for hotmail. You should be
able to see when you reply/create an email an option to turn off rich text
editing though. I think it would be near the top.)

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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:  Is she pregnant or not? opinions!
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Status: RO

I vote not pregnant/

There's a famous self-portrait of 'the artist and his
wife' of the same time period, where the lower corset
does the exact same thing, but after a trim waist.
And can I find the thing?  
None of these are it, but here are pictures showing
the style:   
"Sir Anthony Van Dyck -- Double Portrait of the
Painter Frans Snyders and his Wife" and another where
the bodice matches the skirts "Portrait of a Married
Couple"
and:
"HALS, Frans  Portrait of a Woman  c. 1611"  
and:
"RUBENS, Pieter Pauwel  Portrait of Marchesa Brigida
Spinola Doria  1606"

These were all found trawling the Web Gallery of Art,
searching on text of portrait, with the dates
1601-1650, and medium of painting.


Ann in CT

--- Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com> wrote:

> I just sat down to start drafting the underpinnings
> for this gown
>
http://www.saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/PAM_PICS/Overall.JPG<http://www.saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/PAM_PICS/Overall.JPG>
> and all of a sudden realized the gown does not seem
> symmetrically round. 
> 
> Doesn't this seem much further out in the front than
> everywhere else? 
> 
> Do you think she is pregnant?  
> Seems a little low for pregnancy.  
> 
> Thanks! 
> 
> Sg



 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 0f belts and hanging sleeves
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Status: RO

I spent a space of time this AM trying again to grapple with the 
problem...with QEWU and Hunnisette open before me...and the doll/maninqin 
with the garment pieces .  I understand what you suggest about the idea of 
an open sleeveless robe.  This was my first idea.  After reading Hunnisette 
and her design for the film with Glenda Jackson, I see that her design was 
compromised by reason of budget.And that she holds the interpretation of the 
"red" to be an additional skirt incorperating the gold tissue as is 
described by Arnold in QEWU. Very confusing!

My interpretation begins with an interesting bolt of ribbonweave fabric from 
the 1950s.  The weave is in an appropriate scale for the doll size.  I have 
made the components of the style using Hunnisette drawings, as well as 
Arnold and Waugh. I made both the Hunnisette farthingale and 
supportingbum-roll I edged all these pieces including the long hanging 
sleeves with tiny bonded rope pearls.

After sewing a few rosettes directly on the gown, decided that appliques of 
jeweled rosettes would be more effective.  For the purpose, I sprayed a 
piece of vintage itallian lace gold and jeweled these for the focal pieces 
with tiny freshwater pearls and ruby crystal beads...to be alternated in 
placement on the outward face of the gown.

So far, so good...as soon as I can make the final decisions about the 
plague-d hanging sleeve.
All instruction ideas so far favor the gown sleeve to be set into the 
hanging sleeve, and inserted into the bodice.  This seems to be what 
Hunnisette did. To do otherwise will probably be a variant as to the 
painting evidence.

I am intrigued with your comments about the 'whiteness' of the "real 
background"....
KSM
---- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cin" <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: "h-cost" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 5:14 PM
Subject: re: [h-cost] 0f belts and hanging sleeves


> Subject: [h-cost] 0f  belts and hanging sleeves
>
>>I am working out the problems of interpreting the Darnley Dress for my QEI
>>14" doll.  At first, I thought I was looking at a sleeveless coat
>>be set to give a cape effect.  On closer examenation, I see that this is
>>actually a hanging sleeve...born out by Waugh, Arnold, and Hunnisett.  I
>>have worked out the shape and cut but am having problems with  the set. In
>>order for the unity of the skirt , bodice and sleeve that bear the
>>ornamentation, I can only achieve the look by inserting the hanging sleeve
>>outside in.  This means that the lining will actually be the outside 
>>fabric.
>
> Kathleen,
> Yes, I have done something very much like the Ditchely dress, with a
> whole lot less beading.  The specific gown I was copying was the
> Eleanor Powis portrait at Powis castle.  I believe what you are seeing
> in the Ditchley portrait is two garments. One is a dress (bodice &
> skirt) in the French style. Over it, is an open robe or loose gown.
> See the Isham or Verney open gowns for styling, cut & construction.
>
> If you get out the National Portrait Gallery catalog (or peruse the
> web for a big color version) you'll see that the "background" visible
> between Elizabeth's underarm, bodice & sleeve are white like the gown
> & sleeves, not blue-gray like the left-half sky or black like the
> right-half sky.
>
>>Another small query, what is the visible red one can see throught
>>the space beneath the left arm?  This was originally why I thought I
>>was seeing this "Cape".
>
> My guess, and I'm no expert, the "red" with all the pleating is the
> back of the skirt seen in shadow, while the white/gray triangle above
> the red is the interior of an open robe. When I drape my open robe
> over the drum I get a bit of squnch back there that looks like pooling
> water instead of rayed pleats. Admittedly, I'm looking at a 6x9" color
> photo, not the real portrait.
>
> Some contemporary portraits with the open robe:
> Eleanor Herbert Lady Powis - unknown artist - Castle Powis
> Pregnant lady in White - Marcus Gheerarts c1595
> Sarah Blount, Countess Leicester
> Unknown Lady - W Segar 1595
>
> Some contemporary garments -- open robe:
> V&A museum Isham gown
> The Verney gown (JArnold PoF)
>
> I also think that there are drum farthingale-style gowns with the
> double sleeve; dont get me wrong.  The main dancing lady in the Bal
> for the Duc de Joyeuse is wearing just such a gown.  See also
> Elizabeth I by John Bettes.
>
>>Has anyone else attempted this dress "for real"? I have turned the 
>>backside
>>of the shoulder area backwards so the gathers of the shoulder look like 
>>the
>>painting...and will tack them downover the silk lining, but the lining is
>>still exposed in all its plainess. I have been unable to find any
>>explanation of how this was done.
>
> When I did my "tawney sarceonet" gown for a drum farthingale I chose
> to make my sleeves removeable & interchangeable.  Then I made the open
> robe separately.  The sleeves on the robe are also removeable.  I can
> wear two sleeves laced together into one armseye. (There's lacings &
> eyelets in a band that goes halfway 'round the armseye (e.g. from the
> pectoral, over the shoulder to the shoulder blade).  My hanging
> sleeves are shorter like Pfaltzgrafin Dorothea so I can sit at dinner
> & not have boorish men stepping on my sleeve.
>
> This seems like a ridiculous amount of work for so tiny a doll, but
> for me, and I'm a little taller, it worked pretty well and I can wear
> the robe, several gowns and lots of sleeves, foreparts & stomachers in
> a variety of ways.
>
> Think of it as an Elizabethan cruisewear emsemble. <grin>
>
> To get the Ditchley look, I would unlace & remove the sleeves from the
> open robe. I'd lace the "Phoenix" style sleeve and hanging sleeve
> pairs onto the bodice.  Put on the drum, forepart, skirt & bodice.
> Pin up skirt ruffles. Toss open robe over the top & pull sleeves
> gentle thru the armseyes of the robe. Sweep the body of the coat
> backwards over the skirt.  Mine is overly heavy.  I'd skip the lining
> or use a lighter weight silk satin next time.  Heh, like I'll redo it.
> There's so many more gowns to make.
>
> My interpretation can be found here:
> http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/hysteria95126/my_photos
> You should be able to find the two garments shown separately.
> The album is: Costume Brag Book
> This is the detailed link as Yahoo sends it out.
> http://new.photos.yahoo.com/album?c=hysteria95126&aid=576460762366662489&pid=&wtok=TbrHsiVpa7SfF7Kkcus0iw--&ts=1165960865&.src=ph
> Look for the Ivory robe & giant square supportasse.
>
> Your doll sounds like it will be a work of art.  Cant wait to see photos!
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] question about a book
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Status: RO

Susan,

My book is the 2005- fourth edition and has a white cover.  When I first it 
was our textbook title last spring, I thought "Oh. no!"  Why even make the 
students buy it.  I would have had to supplement the older editions a lot. 
Then I went through newer edition and found a lot more references to events 
in fashion history and designers.  I really think the book is worth the 
price if they are going to take more than one costume history class.  I can 
understand in a community college setting not paying that high of price for 
a textbook.

Others who are teaching costume or fashion history... what level is your 
class taught?  Mine is a 300 level.  I ask because I earned an AA Fashion 
degree in what was now a community college.  When I transferred to a senior 
college, some of my fashion classes wouldn't transfer because they needed to 
be taken at a senior college 300 & 400 level.  I had this happen at the 
university where I teach at and University of New Mexico.  I even had to 
repeat a consumerism class taken at UNM because it wasn't taken at the 
proper level.   It was such a pain in the butt taking classes over because 
they weren't taken at the proper level... and the waste of money.

Susan, what are you doing at Uof T?

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 20:41:42 EST
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gack! Is she pregnant or is she not? Need your opinions!
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In a message dated 13/12/2006 00:13:53 GMT Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> <http://www.saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/PAM_PICS/Overall.JPG>
> > Doesn't this seem much further out in the front than everywhere else?
> >
> > Do you think she is pregnant?
> > Seems a little low for pregnancy.

It's hard to say.

The shaping is incredibly common in other portraits of the same time.

Hip padding was around at the time - so it could be that, continued over the 
belly.

But then again, it is perfectly possible that it's the painting just isn't 
very well drawn.

It's also quite likely that she would be pregnant (thank the lord I'm alive 
now!!).

It's also possible that she's trying to look as though she were pregnant - 
it's been fashionable more than once or twice.
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] question about a book
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Quoting Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com>:


*snip*

>
> Susan, what are you doing at Uof T?
>

Finishing up a PhD in Botany.

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Shoulder-strap-less Tudors?
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 12:59:08 +1100
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 11:25 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Shoulder-strap-less Tudors?


> I'm almost positive someone posted a link about this on here, sometime in 
> the past year or so....  Someone made or was in the process of planning an 
> early/mid 16thC gown (probably c1540s) with a neckline so wide that they 
> just eliminated the shoulder strap part of the bodice entirely.  Can 
> anyone remember the topic/link?
>
> -E House
This webiste 
http://photos.ladybrooke.com/sca/gowns/velvetgown/gettingstarted.htm is a 
strapless Tudor gown, it is not an uncommon theory on Tudor construction her 
finished product does look good except for the bumroll under the skirt which 
just doesn't fit with the smooth Tudor look.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Dec 12 21:13:38 2006
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Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 21:12:03 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] question about a book
In-reply-to: <001201c71e57$a0ac8f80$6700a8c0@momlaptop>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I am teaching Fashion History I in an AA program.

I realy dislike the Totura book and its CD. When I showed one of the CD
sections to my students one pipes up "There are no costume pictures in
this." I can't remember the chapter, but several were like that.

I found that I would prep 15 to 20 hours per week to do my own Powerpoint
the first time I taught the class. It was a pain, but worth it.
Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 8:40 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] question about a book


Susan,

My book is the 2005- fourth edition and has a white cover.  When I first it
was our textbook title last spring, I thought "Oh. no!"  Why even make the
students buy it.  I would have had to supplement the older editions a lot.
Then I went through newer edition and found a lot more references to events
in fashion history and designers.  I really think the book is worth the
price if they are going to take more than one costume history class.  I can
understand in a community college setting not paying that high of price for
a textbook.

Others who are teaching costume or fashion history... what level is your
class taught?  Mine is a 300 level.  I ask because I earned an AA Fashion
degree in what was now a community college.  When I transferred to a senior
college, some of my fashion classes wouldn't transfer because they needed to
be taken at a senior college 300 & 400 level.  I had this happen at the
university where I teach at and University of New Mexico.  I even had to
repeat a consumerism class taken at UNM because it wasn't taken at the
proper level.   It was such a pain in the butt taking classes over because
they weren't taken at the proper level... and the waste of money.

Susan, what are you doing at Uof T?

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Dec 12 21:16:57 2006
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] question about a book
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It is a shame that Russell is out of print, but it has its flaws,  too.  
IMHO, there is no one really good history of costume text out  there.
 
Ann Wass
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From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10612121327460.24929-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oh boy oh boy
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 19:39:43 -0700
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Status: RO

Which "that" sound is it making?
And Happy Chanukah, by the way....When my gift arrives, I'm going to save it
until the 21st (Yule).
--Sue
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historic Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 12:28 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Oh boy oh boy


>
> My holiday exchange gift just arrived. I haven't yet opened it, but I know
> roughly what it is -- only one thing in the world makes *that* sound when
> you shake it.
>
> Friday is the first night of Chanukah, which is my family's holiday, so
> I'm going to open it then, so there. I want it right now!
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Shoulder-strap-less Tudors?
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@tpg.com.au>
> http://photos.ladybrooke.com/sca/gowns/velvetgown/gettingstarted.htm is a 
> strapless Tudor gown, it is not an uncommon theory on Tudor construction 
> her finished product does look good except for the bumroll under the skirt 
> which just doesn't fit with the smooth Tudor look.

Thank you!  That's the site I was thinking of.  I'm planning to make this:
http://www.nationalgalleries.org/collections/artist_search.php?objectId=4764
and am flirting with the idea of a strapless design.

I have plenty of evidence of gowns from this era with shoulder straps, with 
a much lower incidence of gowns that look strapless, but this one definitely 
falls into the strapless camp.  If only all my lovely back-view shots 
weren't of the strapped version.... (Or, maybe the strapless versions look 
strapped from behind! Hrm.)

-E "Ooo! lots of pleating!" House 

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From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gack! Is she pregnant or is she not? Need your opinions!
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 20:26:31 -0700
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Status: RO

Okay, maybe I am not understanding.  Yes, the "bumper pads" all the way 
around don't seem unusual.  i.e. this is a "French Farthingale" - no rigid 
frame, but like the infamous characature of the women about masks and 
farthingales.  Maybe I am not understanding the comments, (not just 
Nicole's) but this one appears like she is protruding extremely in the front 
but not at the hips....who knows what's going on with her backside......

Am I missing what you are saying?

Sg


>From: N Kipar <marquesate@yahoo.co.uk>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gack! Is she pregnant or is she not? Need your 
>opinions!
>Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 23:19:08 +0000 (GMT)
>
>I don't think she is, unless every other woman of this period who wears her 
>fashionable clothes in the same way, is pregnant on portraits. I have many 
>examples amongst my files that look just like this one.
>
>Nicole
>
>
>----- Original Message ----
>From: Saragrace Knauf <wickedfrau@msn.com>
>To: h-costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, 12 December, 2006 11:00:47 PM
>Subject: [h-cost] Gack! Is she pregnant or is she not? Need your opinions!
>
>
>I just sat down to start drafting the underpinnings for this gown 
>http://www.saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/PAM_PICS/Overall.JPG<http://www.saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/PAM_PICS/Overall.JPG>
>and all of a sudden realized the gown does not seem symmetrically round.
>
>Doesn't this seem much further out in the front than everywhere else?
>
>Do you think she is pregnant?
>Seems a little low for pregnancy.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Sg
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] question about a book
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Status: RO

Susan,

Kudos for you!  WOW!  What work!

I am trying to remember if you are the person I am thinking of... did you 
used to work at a small museum in North Carolina?  I remember a lady on the 
list that used to be there and told me about the wagon train trails.  I am 
doing some research into the textile mills in SC in the next county.  This 
person was just across the state line.

Was that you?

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] question about a book
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Status: RO

Monica,

What is on the CD?  My book didn't come with the CD. I guess the previous 
owner kept it.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] question about a book
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Quoting Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com>:

> Susan,
>
> Kudos for you!  WOW!  What work!
>
> I am trying to remember if you are the person I am thinking of... did
> you used to work at a small museum in North Carolina?  I remember a
> lady on the list that used to be there and told me about the wagon
> train trails.  I am doing some research into the textile mills in SC in
> the next county.  This person was just across the state line.
>
> Was that you?

'Fraid not.  I've never lived in NC -- although I am putting in for  
some jobs there .....

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] question about a book
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Status: RO

Susan,

Oh, well.  I remember that you have been on the list a long time. 

Good luck with your job hunting.

Penny Ladnier, 
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
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www.costumeencyclopedia.com 
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] question about a book
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Quoting Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com>:

> Susan,
>
> Oh, well.  I remember that you have been on the list a long time. Good
> luck with your job hunting.

Thanks!

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Status: RO

Anyone have an idea as to how the blue on the plastron is constructed?
Is it a section on material that has a wee bit of gather in the center and
clipped on the sides?
http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/l/p-liotard2.htm

De


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] construction ?
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Quoting otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>:

> Anyone have an idea as to how the blue on the plastron is constructed?
> Is it a section on material that has a wee bit of gather in the center and
> clipped on the sides?
> http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/l/p-liotard2.htm
>

You know it's *really* late when you look at that painting and the  
*first* thought that goes through your brain is, "Oh, look.  She's  
wearing a Mickey Mouse Watch ....."

*blink*

going to bed now.

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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It looks similar to the lacing of a Venetian costume of earlier period. The 
ribbon would have been silk during this period. SO... I think it looks like 
a wide silk ribbon has been woven through some kind of small loop, then 
folded back over it to the other side. The width of the ribbon seems to be 
wide at the turn then narrow where it comes to the side, then wider back 
across. Just a guess but it looks like that to me. Very similar to how silk 
roses are folded.

Sincerely,
Rebecca Rautine




From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] construction ?
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Quoting otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>:

>Anyone have an idea as to how the blue on the plastron is constructed?
>Is it a section on material that has a wee bit of gather in the center and
>clipped on the sides?
>http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/l/p-liotard2.htm
>

You know it's *really* late when you look at that painting and the  *first* 
thought that goes through your brain is, "Oh, look.  She's  wearing a Mickey 
Mouse Watch ....."

*blink*

going to bed now.

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Cin wrote:

> 
>> Another small query, what is the visible red one can see throught
>> the space beneath the left arm?  This was originally why I thought I
>> was seeing this "Cape".
> 
> 
> My guess, and I'm no expert, the "red" with all the pleating is the
> back of the skirt seen in shadow, while the white/gray triangle above
> the red is the interior of an open robe. When I drape my open robe
> over the drum I get a bit of squnch back there that looks like pooling
> water instead of rayed pleats. Admittedly, I'm looking at a 6x9" color
> photo, not the real portrait.

I disagree, I don't think there is an open robe over the gown. What I 
see in QEWU and the online images is a white gown with an open red 
overgown. (Pardon me if my terms are wrong).

If you look at the bottom of the hanging sleeve on the viewer's left you 
can see the red which is also visible under the left arm, this is what's 
on the "back" of the sleeve. The same red is visible on the right of the 
bodice, just behind the pearls, and it's visible as a red overskirt in 
the space under her arms.

Or maybe I should say she is wearing a red gown with an elaborate white 
stomacher and petticoat which match her sleeves and the lining of her 
oversleeves. If you look at the copies of the Ditchley portrait which 
are on the following pages (44-47) in QEWU you can see it even better.

The grey background under her arms looks like the same grey that is used 
above her head, but then my image sources may not be color-tuned 
correctly. The red is very clear to me though.


Sorry, I can't help you with the set of the sleeves.



Dawn


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>> Do you think she is pregnant?
>> Seems a little low for pregnancy.

I'd say she wasn't.  Most of the images of these dresses show women in 
the same shape as this one, and I don't believe every one of them was 
painted during pregnancy.  BTW, I made one of these once.  In mine I 
looked pretty much like she does in hers, and I wasn't the least bit 
pregnant at the time.
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From: "Betsy Marshall" <betsy@softwareinnovation.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] construction ?
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 04:15:21 -0600
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Had a quick peek- looks like the blue front is a wide ribbon tracing an
ascending "figure 8" path, with a bit of ease to make it look puffy, or
maybe it is lightly stuffed after/as it is sewn down? Mostly a guess on my
part- this dress is _so_ not my period.
HTH, Betsy

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Susan B. Farmer
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 10:34 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] construction ?

Quoting otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>:

> Anyone have an idea as to how the blue on the plastron is constructed?
> Is it a section on material that has a wee bit of gather in the center and
> clipped on the sides?
> http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/l/p-liotard2.htm
>

You know it's *really* late when you look at that painting and the  
*first* thought that goes through your brain is, "Oh, look.  She's  
wearing a Mickey Mouse Watch ....."

*blink*

going to bed now.

susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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From: "Kelly Grant" <estela_dufrayse@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Gack! Is she pregnant or is she not? Need your opinions!
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 07:59:10 -0400
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Status: RO

She has the same shape my dolly does when i have the wheel farthingale and 
outfit on her.  I think it's just the style of the underpinnings
Kelly



An insolent reply from a polite person is a bad sign.


Hippocrates (c.460-c.370 bc), Greek physician





>From: "Saragrace Knauf" <wickedfrau@msn.com>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Gack! Is she pregnant or is she not? Need your opinions!
>Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 16:00:47 -0700
>
>I just sat down to start drafting the underpinnings for this gown 
>http://www.saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/PAM_PICS/Overall.JPG<http://www.saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/PAM_PICS/Overall.JPG>
>and all of a sudden realized the gown does not seem symmetrically round.
>
>Doesn't this seem much further out in the front than everywhere else?
>
>Do you think she is pregnant?
>Seems a little low for pregnancy.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Sg
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] construction ?
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     It looks to me like a stomacher, with the blue ribbon as an applied
decoration.  The ribbon is not functional.  The gown closes by
pinning it to the stomacher, and the ruching would hide the pins
nicely.

     So to construct it, make a stomacher and noodle around with the
ribbon until it looks nice.

     I've seen stomachers with ribbon applied criss-cross (faux lacing),
and this just looks like a much fatter ribbon being used.

     -Carol


> Anyone have an idea as to how the blue on the plastron is constructed?
> Is it a section on material that has a wee bit of gather in the center and
> clipped on the sides?
> http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/l/p-liotard2.htm
>
> De


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From: "Gilbert" <tgilbert737@adelphia.net>
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References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10612050747450.10428-100000@shell.nightowl.net><00cf01c71be0$076f7e00$2f01a8c0@HELENPINTO><005701c71d34$86079fe0$8443a150@CPQ21932199711><BAY133-DAV264E2318EF70E2E3FB0D7D2D70@phx.gbl>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Met Museum Bulletin
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Status: RO

Dear Helen/Aidan,

I would love any scans of the early 1800's.

I am sorry for your computer problems. I had a bout myself what with Norton 
stashing emails in a previously undiscovered folder, and an ink cartridge 
that insists that it's been improperly installed. Computers...they should 
all be consigned to the deep.

Thank you! Do you need postage?

Marjorie

PS. You might want my address. It's PO Box 31, East Poland, Maine 04230
Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
Creating a Circa 1798 - 1805 Empire Gown
http://marjoriegilbert.net/album_30_028.htm
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Helen Pinto" <hdpinto@verizon.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 4:55 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Met Museum Bulletin


> Trying to send the scans took down Outlook and crashed the computer 
> (Microsoft is blaming Norton, who's blaming Verizon, who's blaming 
> Microsoft, and so on).  Everything is restored except for a few e-mails.
>
> We're going to do this the old-fashioned way.  If you want the scans, send 
> me your mailing address and I'll send you one of the CD's I made
> while on perpetual hold with customer support tonight.  You'll just have
> to have all the pictures...
>
>                            -Helen/Aidan
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] is she pregnant or what
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She is not pregnant, as Kipar says, i have also seen many many fotos with 
this fashion. It is simply the look wich was fashionable then.

Bjarne



 I just sat down to start drafting the underpinnings for this gown 
http://www.saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/PAM_PICS/Overall.JPG<http://www.saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/PAM_PICS/Overall.JPG<http://www.saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/PAM_PICS/Overall.JPG<http://www.saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/PAM_PICS/Overall.JPG>>
  and all of a sudden realized the gown does not seem symmetrically round.

  Doesn't this seem much further out in the front than everywhere else?

  Do you think she is pregnant?
  Seems a little low for pregnancy.

  Thanks!






Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gack! Is she pregnant or is she not? Need your opinions!
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Quoting Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>:

>>> Do you think she is pregnant?
>>> Seems a little low for pregnancy.
>
> I'd say she wasn't.

Since it might be useful to compare to a pregnant woman .....
Here's a painting that's just a tad earlier where Margharite *is* pregnant
http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Paintings/gonzalez_MargheritaAustria.jpg

jerusha
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gack! Is she pregnant or is she not? Need your opinions!
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Hi,
Its the stomacher wich is unususually in shape, its longated with shaping to 
lie over a padded roll wich goes all way round the waist.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Debloughcostumes@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 2:41 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gack! Is she pregnant or is she not? Need your 
opinions!


> In a message dated 13/12/2006 00:13:53 GMT Standard Time,
> h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
>
>
>> <http://www.saragrace.us/images/GoldenAge/PAM_PICS/Overall.JPG>
>> > Doesn't this seem much further out in the front than everywhere else?
>> >
>> > Do you think she is pregnant?
>> > Seems a little low for pregnancy.
>
> It's hard to say.
>
> The shaping is incredibly common in other portraits of the same time.
>
> Hip padding was around at the time - so it could be that, continued over 
> the
> belly.
>
> But then again, it is perfectly possible that it's the painting just isn't
> very well drawn.
>
> It's also quite likely that she would be pregnant (thank the lord I'm 
> alive
> now!!).
>
> It's also possible that she's trying to look as though she were pregnant -
> it's been fashionable more than once or twice.
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] construction ?
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Hi

I think its just the ribbon wich has ben cut to pieces, then the ends is 
turned back and its stitched in the middle of the ribbon to the stomacher.
Interresting with that blue collour!

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <aquazoo@patriot.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 7:12 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] construction ?


>     It looks to me like a stomacher, with the blue ribbon as an applied
> decoration.  The ribbon is not functional.  The gown closes by
> pinning it to the stomacher, and the ruching would hide the pins
> nicely.
>
>     So to construct it, make a stomacher and noodle around with the
> ribbon until it looks nice.
>
>     I've seen stomachers with ribbon applied criss-cross (faux lacing),
> and this just looks like a much fatter ribbon being used.
>
>     -Carol
>
>
>> Anyone have an idea as to how the blue on the plastron is constructed?
>> Is it a section on material that has a wee bit of gather in the center 
>> and
>> clipped on the sides?
>> http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/l/p-liotard2.htm
>>
>> De
>
>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Gack! Is she pregnant or is she not? Need your opinions!
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 09:49:25 -0600
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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It could be that the wearer is pregnant and it looks like the stomacher
and maybe the bodice is cut to allow this. Probably laced so, which the
surcoat would cover any gaps in the stomacher/bodice lacing. Or it could
be she is wearing the latest fad in stomachers. During the 15th century,
there are portraits, brasses, and drawings where high-waisted gowns not
only made women look pregnant(see the Antirfoni{sorry
spelling!))Marriage but women are often depicted posed as if they were.
Pregnancy was a desirable state to be painted in as most women who could
afford to be painted were pregnant.

Since women couldn't just whip out to the mall or buy a prepproduced
pattern, they adapted what they had in their wardrobes. Colonial
Williamsburg has a three-piece ensemble that could be worn before,
during and after pregnancy with drawstrings and adjustable lacing.

Cindy Abel

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Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 09:10:58 -0800
From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Met Museum Bulletin
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Status: RO

Hi Helen/Aiden,

Yes, I agree with Marjorie on the computer stuff. Working from one
platform to another is often frustrating.

My first question when I read your message was, does she need postage. Do you?
My address:
Lynn Downward
442-48th Street #B
Oakland, CA  94609

On 12/13/06, Gilbert <tgilbert737@adelphia.net> wrote:
> Dear Helen/Aidan,
>
> I would love any scans of the early 1800's.
>
> I am sorry for your computer problems. I had a bout myself what with Norton
> stashing emails in a previously undiscovered folder, and an ink cartridge
> that insists that it's been improperly installed. Computers...they should
> all be consigned to the deep.
>
> Thank you! Do you need postage?
>
> Marjorie
>
> PS. You might want my address. It's PO Box 31, East Poland, Maine 04230
> Marjorie Gilbert
> author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
> www.marjoriegilbert.net
> Creating a Circa 1798 - 1805 Empire Gown
> http://marjoriegilbert.net/album_30_028.htm
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Helen Pinto" <hdpinto@verizon.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 4:55 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Met Museum Bulletin
>
>
> > Trying to send the scans took down Outlook and crashed the computer
> > (Microsoft is blaming Norton, who's blaming Verizon, who's blaming
> > Microsoft, and so on).  Everything is restored except for a few e-mails.
> >
> > We're going to do this the old-fashioned way.  If you want the scans, send
> > me your mailing address and I'll send you one of the CD's I made
> > while on perpetual hold with customer support tonight.  You'll just have
> > to have all the pictures...
> >
> >                            -Helen/Aidan
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] construction ?
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Thank you, everyone. I had a brain f@rt and said plastron and not stomacher.
:P I think the ribbon in figure eights is what it probably is.
Bjarne, here is a painting of the woman's husband in the same blue.
http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/l/p-liotard3.htm
They're Swiss, so the watch humor was even more humorous to me. :)

Thank you,
De


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From: "The Foxes" <fox3785@charter.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Gack! Is she pregnant or is she not? Need your opinions!
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 13:30:43 -0500
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Status: RO


Hi,

I dunno about being pregnant.  She has too long of a straight torso in
my opinion.  

I am 7 months pregnant now... My "roundness" starts much higher under my
bosom than this ladies "roundness"

It could be my short body type... But I vote that this is the way the
long bodice is laying over the cartridge wheel..

Just my 2 cents :)
-annette


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPCELCIBAA.otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] construction ?
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 20:18:27 +0100
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Status: RO

Hi again,
His shirt buttons are even more interresting to me. Its dorset buttons ( 
linnen thread buttons). Wich i have on mine two.
Could this collour be a trick for the pastel collours. Its just the same 
blue as the wifes, and its a very vivid blue.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 6:28 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] construction ?


> Thank you, everyone. I had a brain f@rt and said plastron and not 
> stomacher.
> :P I think the ribbon in figure eights is what it probably is.
> Bjarne, here is a painting of the woman's husband in the same blue.
> http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/l/p-liotard3.htm
> They're Swiss, so the watch humor was even more humorous to me. :)
>
> Thank you,
> De
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <BB3EEC584579204DB6E2CA0F6DB7566F06E92BC8@exbe01.blue.jays.creighton.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gack! Is she pregnant or is she not? Need your opinions!
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 20:35:34 +0100
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Another portrait, similar in style, but a little later, She has the same 
kind of bodice-peplum and stomacher, but the roll is not as big as the other 
one posted. This is a replika from a larger portrait, where she is with 3 of 
her daughters and a son, the girls wear same type of dress as the mother.
It is Kirsten Munk, the wife of Christian IV of Denmark.
http://www.rosenborgslot.dk/asp/person/BigPicPage.asp?PersonID=25&countryID=1&PersonTypeID=6
Painted 1620ies.
Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 4:49 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Gack! Is she pregnant or is she not? Need your 
opinions!


>
> It could be that the wearer is pregnant and it looks like the stomacher
> and maybe the bodice is cut to allow this. Probably laced so, which the
> surcoat would cover any gaps in the stomacher/bodice lacing. Or it could
> be she is wearing the latest fad in stomachers. During the 15th century,
> there are portraits, brasses, and drawings where high-waisted gowns not
> only made women look pregnant(see the Antirfoni{sorry
> spelling!))Marriage but women are often depicted posed as if they were.
> Pregnancy was a desirable state to be painted in as most women who could
> afford to be painted were pregnant.
>
> Since women couldn't just whip out to the mall or buy a prepproduced
> pattern, they adapted what they had in their wardrobes. Colonial
> Williamsburg has a three-piece ensemble that could be worn before,
> during and after pregnancy with drawstrings and adjustable lacing.
>
> Cindy Abel
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: [h-cost] Christian IV of Denmark was: Gack! Is she pregnant or is
	she not? Need your opinions!
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On 12/13/06, Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
>
> Another portrait, similar in style, but a little later, She has the same
> kind of bodice-peplum and stomacher, but the roll is not as big as the
> other
> one posted. This is a replika from a larger portrait, where she is with 3
> of
> her daughters and a son, the girls wear same type of dress as the mother.


Bjarne,

I know I could probably find this if I dug, but I thought you might know or
can get this info a little easier... Do you know the names of the daughters
and approx year of birth?  There is a doll reported to have belong to one of
these girls and I was wondering if it might be possible to get a better
guess which one it was...

thanks
alex
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From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian IV of Denmark was: Gack! Is she pregnant or
	isshe not? Need your opinions!
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It wasn't a painting that I was thinking of, but the so called fashion doll
in QEWU that I was thinking to be credited to one of Christian's daughters,
dated about 1598 iirc.  I'll have to go look at that again, because if this
portrait is dated to 1620, then it's not these girl's toy...  Maybe
Christian's sister?  Did he have one or more sisters?

thanks
alex

On 12/13/06, Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
>
> Hi Alex
> Are you sure its the same picture?
> I know a certain portrait from same period where the girls are holding
> dolls
> in their hands, but its not the same portrait.
> In this portrait they have no dolls.
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/kirstenmunk.htm
>
> Bjarne
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 8:54 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Christian IV of Denmark was: Gack! Is she pregnant or
> isshe not? Need your opinions!
>
>
> > On 12/13/06, Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
> >>
> >> Another portrait, similar in style, but a little later, She has the
> same
> >> kind of bodice-peplum and stomacher, but the roll is not as big as the
> >> other
> >> one posted. This is a replika from a larger portrait, where she is with
> 3
> >> of
> >> her daughters and a son, the girls wear same type of dress as the
> mother.
> >
> >
> > Bjarne,
> >
> > I know I could probably find this if I dug, but I thought you might know
> > or
> > can get this info a little easier... Do you know the names of the
> > daughters
> > and approx year of birth?  There is a doll reported to have belong to
> one
> > of
> > these girls and I was wondering if it might be possible to get a better
> > guess which one it was...
> >
> > thanks
> > alex
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <870801590612131154t22758d0dgb3fcf6e989a3646b@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian IV of Denmark was: Gack! Is she pregnant or
	isshe not? Need your opinions!
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 21:40:07 +0100
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Hi Alex
Are you sure its the same picture?
I know a certain portrait from same period where the girls are holding dolls 
in their hands, but its not the same portrait.
In this portrait they have no dolls.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/kirstenmunk.htm

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 8:54 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Christian IV of Denmark was: Gack! Is she pregnant or 
isshe not? Need your opinions!


> On 12/13/06, Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
>>
>> Another portrait, similar in style, but a little later, She has the same
>> kind of bodice-peplum and stomacher, but the roll is not as big as the
>> other
>> one posted. This is a replika from a larger portrait, where she is with 3
>> of
>> her daughters and a son, the girls wear same type of dress as the mother.
>
>
> Bjarne,
>
> I know I could probably find this if I dug, but I thought you might know 
> or
> can get this info a little easier... Do you know the names of the 
> daughters
> and approx year of birth?  There is a doll reported to have belong to one 
> of
> these girls and I was wondering if it might be possible to get a better
> guess which one it was...
>
> thanks
> alex
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 0f belts and hanging sleeves
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>I spent a space of time this AM trying again to grapple with the
>problem...with QEWU and Hunnisette open before me...and the doll/maninqin
>with the garment pieces .  I understand what you suggest about the idea of
>an open sleeveless robe.  This was my first idea.  After reading Hunnisette
>and her design for the film with Glenda Jackson, I see that her design was
>compromised by reason of budget.And that she holds the interpretation of the
>"red" to be an additional skirt incorperating the gold tissue as is
>described by Arnold in QEWU. Very confusing!

Kathleen,
That's sad to see what is supposed to be an outrageously cool dress
cut back for budget reasons.

Second skirt *that* far back on the body?  In one of the few pictures
with multiple views, Bal at the court of Henri III, 1581, you can see
that there are only single layered skirts.  Yeah, yeah, different
country, I'm off by a few years, yadda, yadda... but the Ditchley is
allegorical.  And in allegory anythng is fair game.
Sure lots of other ladies had openings in the skirt front, but they
arent wearing them *that* far open in the portraits.  It seems almost
lewd to do so. (Oh dear, the closet Victorian has gotten out!)  It's
an interesting possibility, and an excellent excuse for a more
elaborate or even scenic forepart.  I'll be on the lookout for
something that indicates a wider gap, but for now, all the really wide
foreparts seem to be wide because they were added onto in later
periods (e.g. the 18th c) and reused.

For the shape of the hanging sleeve, have you looked at some of the
transparent, probably gauze, sleeves. I find it easier to see the cut
since you can see the back edge & gathers thru the front of the
sleeve.  There's a c1600 unknown lady hanging at the NY Met. "Portrait
of a noblewoman" is the unhelpful title.  Her sleeve is very ruffled.
These hanging sleeves extend pass the lower edge of the 3/4 portrait.

There's another Unknown Lady by an unknown artist, c.1603, at Cowdray
Park.  I think JArnold shows here in QEWU (I dont have it handy) and
it's in "The Embroiderer's Art". She's got pyramids or obelisks
embroidered on the border of her skirt.  Her gauze or lace sleeves
hang to the floor.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 21:48:31 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] question about a book
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Hi Penny--
If you contact the publisher (Fairchild) and you are using the book as a
class text, they will send you the instructors CD and Quiz book. Most people
don't know about them, but I am here in NYC the "Land of Fashion".
Periodically the publishers do a book fair at our school.

Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 10:38 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] question about a book


Monica,

What is on the CD?  My book didn't come with the CD. I guess the previous
owner kept it.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] construction ?
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Watch? Isn't that a miniature (portrait)?
--Ruth Anne

-----Original Message-----
>From: otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>
>Sent: Dec 13, 2006 12:28 PM
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: RE: [h-cost] construction ?
>
>Thank you, everyone. I had a brain f@rt and said plastron and not stomacher.
>:P I think the ribbon in figure eights is what it probably is.
>Bjarne, here is a painting of the woman's husband in the same blue.
>http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/l/p-liotard3.htm
>They're Swiss, so the watch humor was even more humorous to me. :)
>
>Thank you,
>De
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 0f belts and hanging sleeves
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 20:04:06 -0500
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Status: RO

Re the possible use of a white gown (or parts) over red, Hunnisette does 
give this as one explanation in her discussion of making this gown up for 
ERI.  For myself. I haven't seen any color copy that has the proper 
resolution  to make this same theory.  I have been working with all the 
photos I can find, including*pages 44-47 in QEWU.

After fiddling around with my little mock-ups, I have had some further 
success by following Cindy Able's directions .  Not 100%, but better.

Thank you all for your inputs.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 12:09 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 0f belts and hanging sleeves


> Cin wrote:
>
>>
>>> Another small query, what is the visible red one can see throught
>>> the space beneath the left arm?  This was originally why I thought I
>>> was seeing this "Cape".
>>
>>
>> My guess, and I'm no expert, the "red" with all the pleating is the
>> back of the skirt seen in shadow, while the white/gray triangle above
>> the red is the interior of an open robe. When I drape my open robe
>> over the drum I get a bit of squnch back there that looks like pooling
>> water instead of rayed pleats. Admittedly, I'm looking at a 6x9" color
>> photo, not the real portrait.
>
> I disagree, I don't think there is an open robe over the gown. What I see 
> in QEWU and the online images is a white gown with an open red overgown. 
> (Pardon me if my terms are wrong).
>
> If you look at the bottom of the hanging sleeve on the viewer's left you 
> can see the red which is also visible under the left arm, this is what's 
> on the "back" of the sleeve. The same red is visible on the right of the 
> bodice, just behind the pearls, and it's visible as a red overskirt in the 
> space under her arms.
>
> Or maybe I should say she is wearing a red gown with an elaborate white 
> stomacher and petticoat which match her sleeves and the lining of her 
> oversleeves. If you look at the copies of the Ditchley portrait which are 
> on the following pages (44-47) in QEWU you can see it even better.
>
> The grey background under her arms looks like the same grey that is used 
> above her head, but then my image sources may not be color-tuned 
> correctly. The red is very clear to me though.
>
>
> Sorry, I can't help you with the set of the sleeves.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] construction ?
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Someone mentioned that they knew they were tired when they thought the portrait bracelet was a Mickey Mouse watch. 
De

-----Original Message-----
Watch? Isn't that a miniature (portrait)?
--Ruth Anne

-----Original Message-----
>They're Swiss, so the watch humor was even more humorous to me. :)
>
>Thank you,
>De
>



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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] construction ?
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 23:33:16 -0600
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The period is just a passing interest so I don't know much about it but I
think I have seen this bright of blue in either an embroidery piece or a
piece of material from roughly that period but I can't remember where or
when. I have been focusing on ceramics of late and when searching the web I
come across these sort of things and file them in my mind.
I am planning on modifying Simplicity 4092, the gold dress "A". I
periodically look for ideas for the stomacher area and liked the blue design
in the picture.
De

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 1:18 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] construction ?


Hi again,
His shirt buttons are even more interresting to me. Its dorset buttons (
linnen thread buttons). Wich i have on mine two.
Could this collour be a trick for the pastel collours. Its just the same
blue as the wifes, and its a very vivid blue.

Bjarne
----- Original Message -----
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 6:28 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] construction ?


> Thank you, everyone. I had a brain f@rt and said plastron and not
> stomacher.
> :P I think the ribbon in figure eights is what it probably is.
> Bjarne, here is a painting of the woman's husband in the same blue.
> http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/l/p-liotard3.htm
> They're Swiss, so the watch humor was even more humorous to me. :)
>
> Thank you,
> De
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>


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Subject: [h-cost] Blue police boxes
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Kate Bunting said:

> Police telephone boxes no longer exist at all;...<Snippage>

They may no longer be using them, but as of my 2002 trip to 
London, there were still a few around.  I was utterly delighted to find 
that there was one on the sidewalk at the spot where Astral Tours 
told me to await my ride for my Stonehenge tour!

Smiling at the memory,

Maria



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From: Ruth Anne Baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] construction ?
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2006 08:39:02 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thanks--the Mickey Mouse remark was in an e-mail I had skipped over.  
I reacted that fast because when I directed and costumed The Rivals,  
my Lydia Languish wore her lover's miniature on a chain around her  
neck and tucked into the bosom of her gown (in one scene she takes it  
off and throws it at said lover, with appropriate remarks)--and when  
I saw the miniature on this lady's wrist I thought, "Dang, that would  
have looked cool on Lydia!"
By the way, I'm so glad both of these portraits were posted. They  
look like kind people and a very happy couple, don't they?
--Ruth Anne

On Dec 14, 2006, at 12:13 AM, otsisto wrote:

> Someone mentioned that they knew they were tired when they thought  
> the portrait bracelet was a Mickey Mouse watch.
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Watch? Isn't that a miniature (portrait)?
> --Ruth Anne
>
> -----Original Message-----
>> They're Swiss, so the watch humor was even more humorous to me. :)
>>
>> Thank you,
>> De
>>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Status: RO

Many thanks for those of you who gave me details of this book. I ordered it 
some time ago from America, and i got it today, the 65 edittion with all the 
pattern cuts.
In deed a very nice book, better than i remembered it from the library loan 
years and years ago.........

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: [h-cost] V&A weddingdress
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Status: RO

Hi,
Many of you may know the white satin weddingdress wich is in Norah Waughs 
Cut of Womens Clothes. A Robe Francaise with intricate puffs pleatings as 
decoration in the under and overskirt.
This dress has tape ties in the back section with the watteau pleats.
I just wondered if any here have seen any pictures where a francaise dress 
is lifted up in the back with these tapes?
I am just wondering because i am starting a new projekt in the new year with 
a francaise dress, and my client would like to have this opportunity to lift 
up the train.
I dont recall to have seen any pictures where this is shown.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2006 14:44:12 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] V&A weddingdress
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Hi Bjarne,

     We're talking about an 18thC gown, right?

     I remember talking about this on 18cWoman quite a while back.  After
much searching, I think someone found one picture of a robe Francaise
that was worn this way.  Sounds like it was rare, and understandable
since it changes the line of the gown.

     You may want to ask on that list, or e-mail Sue Felshin who has
stored all the archives and has a fast searching method on it.

     -Carol


> Hi,
> Many of you may know the white satin weddingdress wich is in Norah Waughs
> Cut of Womens Clothes. A Robe Francaise with intricate puffs pleatings as
> decoration in the under and overskirt.
> This dress has tape ties in the back section with the watteau pleats.
> I just wondered if any here have seen any pictures where a francaise dress
> is lifted up in the back with these tapes?
> I am just wondering because i am starting a new projekt in the new year
> with a francaise dress, and my client would like to have this
opportunity to
> lift up the train.
> I dont recall to have seen any pictures where this is shown.
>
> Bjarne


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h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Both have personality. His is laid back with a twinkle of mischief.
De

-----Original Message-----
By the way, I'm so glad both of these portraits were posted. They  
look like kind people and a very happy couple, don't they?
--Ruth Anne


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From: "Onaree Berard" <msberard@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: fiber in paper
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On 12/11/06, Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net> wrote:


>
> I remember the television program "Connections" from my youth saying that
> after the Black Plague paper production soared because of the huge
> quantities of linen available from dead people. I don't know if that's
> really true.
>
> Gail Finke


Actually it was the survivors spending their inheritace and when they
(the linen) wore out it was perfect for the printing industry thus the
bone man became the rag and bone man or something to that effect.

Onaree <who loved that show>

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian IV of Denmark was: Gack! Is she pregnant
	orisshe not? Need your opinions!
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2006 16:31:28 +0100
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Hi,
It could still be a daughter to Christian IV, he was married before with a 
lady from Germany, her name was Anne Cathrine, she died early in 1604 i 
think but had 2 sons and 2 daughters with the king, but only one of the boys 
survived childhood.
Is it the doll from Livrustkammaren in QEWU ? that is a swedish doll, not 
danish.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 9:46 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian IV of Denmark was: Gack! Is she pregnant 
orisshe not? Need your opinions!


> It wasn't a painting that I was thinking of, but the so called fashion 
> doll
> in QEWU that I was thinking to be credited to one of Christian's 
> daughters,
> dated about 1598 iirc.  I'll have to go look at that again, because if 
> this
> portrait is dated to 1620, then it's not these girl's toy...  Maybe
> Christian's sister?  Did he have one or more sisters?
>
> thanks
> alex
>
> On 12/13/06, Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Alex
>> Are you sure its the same picture?
>> I know a certain portrait from same period where the girls are holding
>> dolls
>> in their hands, but its not the same portrait.
>> In this portrait they have no dolls.
>> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/kirstenmunk.htm
>>
>> Bjarne
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
>> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 8:54 PM
>> Subject: [h-cost] Christian IV of Denmark was: Gack! Is she pregnant or
>> isshe not? Need your opinions!
>>
>>
>> > On 12/13/06, Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Another portrait, similar in style, but a little later, She has the
>> same
>> >> kind of bodice-peplum and stomacher, but the roll is not as big as the
>> >> other
>> >> one posted. This is a replika from a larger portrait, where she is 
>> >> with
>> 3
>> >> of
>> >> her daughters and a son, the girls wear same type of dress as the
>> mother.
>> >
>> >
>> > Bjarne,
>> >
>> > I know I could probably find this if I dug, but I thought you might 
>> > know
>> > or
>> > can get this info a little easier... Do you know the names of the
>> > daughters
>> > and approx year of birth?  There is a doll reported to have belong to
>> one
>> > of
>> > these girls and I was wondering if it might be possible to get a better
>> > guess which one it was...
>> >
>> > thanks
>> > alex
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > h-costume mailing list
>> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> >
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>>
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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Subject: [h-cost] New book 14th C Italy
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Status: RO

After all the talk about books that are delayed in publication, I thought 
that I'd mention one that I've just got in today. Has anyone else seen it?

Beth

Gilding the Market: Luxury and Fashion in Fourteenth-Century Italy by Susan 
Mosher Stuard 336 pages | 6 1/8 x 9 1/4 | 14 color, 10 b/w illus. Cloth Dec 
2005 | ISBN 0812239008
http://www.upenn.edu/pennpress/book/14208.html

"In the fourteenth century, garish ornaments, bright colors, gilt, and 
military effects helped usher in the age of fashion in Italy. Over a short 
span of years important matters began to turn on the cut of a sleeve. 
Fashion influenced consumption and provided a stimulus that drove demand 
for goods and turned wealthy townspeople into enthusiastic consumers. 
Making wise decisions about the alarmingly expensive goods that composed a 
fashionable wardrobe became a matter of pressing concern, especially when 
the market caught on and became awash in cheaper editions of luxury wares.

Focusing on the luxury trade in fashionable wear and accessories in Venice, 
Florence, and other towns in Italy, Gilding the Market investigates a major 
shift in patterns of consumption at the height of medieval prosperity, 
which, more remarkably, continued through the subsequent era of plague, 
return of plague, and increased warfare. A fine sensitivity to the demands 
of "le pompe," that is, the public display of private wealth, infected town 
life. The quest for luxuries affected markets by enlarging exchange 
activity and encouraging retail trades. As both consumers and tradesmen, 
local goldsmiths, long-distance traders, bankers, and money changers played 
important roles in creating this new age of fashion.

In response to a greater public display of luxury goods, civic sumptuary 
laws were written to curb spending and extreme fashion, but these were 
aimed at women, youth, and children, leaving townsmen largely unrestricted 
in their consumption. With erudition, grace, and an evocative selection of 
illustrations, some reproduced in full color, Susan Mosher Stuard explores 
the arrival of fashion in European history."
=============================================  

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From: Andrew T Trembley <attrembl@bovil.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: fiber in paper
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2006 16:56:45 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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On Dec 14, 2006, at 4:33 PM, Onaree Berard wrote:
> On 12/11/06, Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net> wrote:
>> I remember the television program "Connections" from my youth  
>> saying that
>> after the Black Plague paper production soared because of the huge
>> quantities of linen available from dead people. I don't know if  
>> that's
>> really true.
>>
>> Gail Finke
>
> Actually it was the survivors spending their inheritace and when they
> (the linen) wore out it was perfect for the printing industry thus the
> bone man became the rag and bone man or something to that effect.

On the other side of the equation, mummy wrappings were (for a time)  
a popular source of cloth for rag paper. At one point, a food-borne  
illness outbreak was tracked to butchers using unbleached rag-paper  
from mummy wrappings to wrap meat.

-- 
andy trembley, Bitchy Design Queen - http://www.bovil.com/
San Jose, CA - '72 R75/5 '86 R100 (mine) - '92 K75sa '03 R1150R  
(Kevin's)
       "It's not pink, it's peach-colored. Pink is tacky."
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] V&A weddingdress
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Status: RO

Hi Bjarne,

There are robes a la Francaise that are shown tucked up polonaise-style 
into the pockets, like
http://www.bc.edu/bc_org/avp/cas/his/CoreArt/art/resources/bou_lat.jpg
Tapes would give a similar effect, just more formal.

Melanie Schuessler


Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Hi,
> Many of you may know the white satin weddingdress wich is in Norah 
> Waughs Cut of Womens Clothes. A Robe Francaise with intricate puffs 
> pleatings as decoration in the under and overskirt.
> This dress has tape ties in the back section with the watteau pleats.
> I just wondered if any here have seen any pictures where a francaise 
> dress is lifted up in the back with these tapes?
> I am just wondering because i am starting a new projekt in the new year 
> with a francaise dress, and my client would like to have this 
> opportunity to lift up the train.
> I dont recall to have seen any pictures where this is shown.
> 
> Bjarne



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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New book 14th C Italy
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On Thu, 14 Dec 2006, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:

> After all the talk about books that are delayed in publication, I thought 
> that I'd mention one that I've just got in today. Has anyone else seen it?
> 
> Beth
> 
> Gilding the Market: Luxury and Fashion in Fourteenth-Century Italy by Susan 
> Mosher Stuard 336 pages | 6 1/8 x 9 1/4 | 14 color, 10 b/w illus. Cloth Dec 
> 2005 | ISBN 0812239008
> http://www.upenn.edu/pennpress/book/14208.html

We have a review of it in our upcoming volume of MC&T. Our reviewer liked
it. It apparently has a social/economic focus but uses everything from
sumptuary laws to visual arts as sources. Yet another great resource for
people studying Italian clothing ... after Moda i Firenze, Dressing
Renaissance Florence, and so many others. I picked the wrong part of
Europe to focus on, apparently.

--Robin


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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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>> My guess, and I'm no expert, the "red" with all the pleating is the
>> back of the skirt seen in shadow, while the white/gray triangle above
>> the red is the interior of an open robe. When I drape my open robe
>> over the drum I get a bit of squnch back there that looks like pooling
>> water instead of rayed pleats. Admittedly, I'm looking at a 6x9" color
>> photo, not the real portrait.

> If you look at the bottom of the hanging sleeve on the viewer's left you
> can see the red which is also visible under the left arm, this is what's
> on the "back" of the sleeve. The same red is visible on the right of the
> bodice, just behind the pearls, and it's visible as a red overskirt in the
> space under her arms.
> Dawn

Funny, I see this same red as the shadow of the sleeve, robe, etc, not as a
second skirt.  I needed another reason to go back to the UK!
Dawn, arent you going soon?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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I remember seeing a gown that could be tied up as you describe. It was
online, being sold last(?) year. There was some discussion on this site that
it wasn't completely authentic, that it had been perhaps re-made or altered.
Sorry, that's all I remember. Maybe someone saved the picture.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 11:18 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] V&A weddingdress


Hi,
Many of you may know the white satin weddingdress wich is in Norah Waughs 
Cut of Womens Clothes. A Robe Francaise with intricate puffs pleatings as 
decoration in the under and overskirt.
This dress has tape ties in the back section with the watteau pleats.
I just wondered if any here have seen any pictures where a francaise dress 
is lifted up in the back with these tapes?
I am just wondering because i am starting a new projekt in the new year with

a francaise dress, and my client would like to have this opportunity to lift

up the train.
I dont recall to have seen any pictures where this is shown.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Status: RO

Turns out I saved it. 
http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_238.htm
I don't know if this is what you're talking about, but it may help.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 11:18 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] V&A weddingdress


Hi,
Many of you may know the white satin weddingdress wich is in Norah Waughs 
Cut of Womens Clothes. A Robe Francaise with intricate puffs pleatings as 
decoration in the under and overskirt.
This dress has tape ties in the back section with the watteau pleats.
I just wondered if any here have seen any pictures where a francaise dress 
is lifted up in the back with these tapes?
I am just wondering because i am starting a new projekt in the new year with

a francaise dress, and my client would like to have this opportunity to lift

up the train.
I dont recall to have seen any pictures where this is shown.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Ruth anne wrote:
>Thanks--the Mickey Mouse remark was in an e-mail I had skipped over. 

>I reacted that fast because when I directed and costumed The Rivals, 

>my Lydia Languish wore her lover's miniature on a chain around her  
>neck and tucked into the bosom of her gown (in one scene she takes it 

>off and throws it at said lover, with appropriate remarks)--and when 

>I saw the miniature on this lady's wrist I thought, "Dang, that would 

>have looked cool on Lydia!"

A similar bracelet is shown in this Joseph Wright painting which hangs
here in Derby -
http://www.derby.gov.uk/LeisureCulture/MuseumsGalleries/Sarah_Carver_and_her_daughter_Sarah.htm



Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: fiber in paper
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And the way I remember it, he attributed to rise in paper production  
to the increased popularity of underwear, esp underbreeches, which  
meant a lot of discarded soiled linen--with the chamberlye already  
in, so to speak.
--Ruth Anne

On Dec 14, 2006, at 7:56 PM, Andrew T Trembley wrote:

> On Dec 14, 2006, at 4:33 PM, Onaree Berard wrote:
>> On 12/11/06, Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net> wrote:
>>> I remember the television program "Connections" from my youth  
>>> saying that
>>> after the Black Plague paper production soared because of the huge
>>> quantities of linen available from dead people. I don't know if  
>>> that's
>>> really true.
>>>
>>> Gail Finke
>>
>> Actually it was the survivors spending their inheritace and when they
>> (the linen) wore out it was perfect for the printing industry thus  
>> the
>> bone man became the rag and bone man or something to that effect.
>
> On the other side of the equation, mummy wrappings were (for a  
> time) a popular source of cloth for rag paper. At one point, a food- 
> borne illness outbreak was tracked to butchers using unbleached rag- 
> paper from mummy wrappings to wrap meat.
>
> -- 
> andy trembley, Bitchy Design Queen - http://www.bovil.com/
> San Jose, CA - '72 R75/5 '86 R100 (mine) - '92 K75sa '03 R1150R  
> (Kevin's)
>       "It's not pink, it's peach-colored. Pink is tacky."
>                --Manfred Pfirsich Marie Rommel
>
> read the FAQ... Ridicule: http://www.idiots-r-us.org/
> read the FAQ... IBMWR: http://www.ibmwr.org/faq-files/
> read the FAQ... AirList: http://www.airheads.org/faq.html
> read the FAQ... Hoaxes & Urban Legends: http://urbanlegends.about.com/
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] H-Cost: Fwd: New Google Patent Search
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Hey guys,
Try this!
There is a new Google search of Patents that is in Beta.  I guess
they're only U.S patents, but I'm not sure.
Anyway, I searched on "corset" and got 835 hits with full technical
drawings and many with text descriptions as well!

I also tried "Stays"--it got a lot of hits, but not all were dress
related.  But one was interesting--how to process rawhide into dress
stays.

Kathy Hoover

http://www.google.com/patents 
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Status: RO

Cin wrote:

> 
> Funny, I see this same red as the shadow of the sleeve, robe, etc, not as a
> second skirt.  I needed another reason to go back to the UK!


Here's some of the copies. What do you think?

http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Eliza32.jpg

http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Eliza29.jpg

http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Elizathanksgiving.jpg




> Dawn, arent you going soon?

I was there over Thanksgiving. I could use a good excuse to go back, 
too. :)



Dawn


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <00f001c72023$2ce13790$0200a8c0@bob3pc>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] V&A weddingdress
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2006 16:34:44 +0100
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Status: RO

Hi Sharon,
Thanks for your help, but this is not the same way i ment to tuck up the 
skirt in the sides. I just ment its strange that no portrait or painting 
shows a lady wearing her francaise dress with lifted up back train as in the 
wedding dress from V&A. It has lift up tapes in the back like a polonaise 
dress would have, only it is a watteau pleated back.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sharon at Collierfam.com" <sharon@collierfam.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 9:29 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] V&A weddingdress


> Turns out I saved it.
> http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_238.htm
> I don't know if this is what you're talking about, but it may help.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
> Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 11:18 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] V&A weddingdress
>
>
> Hi,
> Many of you may know the white satin weddingdress wich is in Norah Waughs
> Cut of Womens Clothes. A Robe Francaise with intricate puffs pleatings as
> decoration in the under and overskirt.
> This dress has tape ties in the back section with the watteau pleats.
> I just wondered if any here have seen any pictures where a francaise dress
> is lifted up in the back with these tapes?
> I am just wondering because i am starting a new projekt in the new year 
> with
>
> a francaise dress, and my client would like to have this opportunity to 
> lift
>
> up the train.
> I dont recall to have seen any pictures where this is shown.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 0f belts and hanging sleeves
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Last one, i have always thoaght of being an oval shaped farthingale, am i 
right about this?

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 5:27 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 0f belts and hanging sleeves


> Cin wrote:
>
>>
>> Funny, I see this same red as the shadow of the sleeve, robe, etc, not as 
>> a
>> second skirt.  I needed another reason to go back to the UK!
>
>
> Here's some of the copies. What do you think?
>
> http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Eliza32.jpg
>
> http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Eliza29.jpg
>
> http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Elizathanksgiving.jpg
>
>
>
>
>> Dawn, arent you going soon?
>
> I was there over Thanksgiving. I could use a good excuse to go back, too. 
> :)
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Silk Flowers
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Hi,

Does anyone know the history of fabric/paper flowers.  How early they
were made?

Thanks if you have any information.  Or ideas of how to look to find
what I want.

Happy Holidays :)

-annette

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <000001c72080$9ced7960$0302a8c0@familyroom>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Flowers
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2006 20:45:20 +0100
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Status: RO

As flowers as decoration/embellisment of costume first became fashionable in 
18th century i am almost certain that it started to be made at convents in 
Italy same time
However i am not an expert.
In my danish bible Moden i 1700 årene, it is said that flowers of feathers 
and silk started to be made in Italy

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "The Foxes" <fox3785@charter.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 8:38 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Silk Flowers


> Hi,
>
> Does anyone know the history of fabric/paper flowers.  How early they
> were made?
>
> Thanks if you have any information.  Or ideas of how to look to find
> what I want.
>
> Happy Holidays :)
>
> -annette
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Dec 15 15:08:57 2006
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From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
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It's been a bit dampish here lately...(mocking grin) and I'm ever so glad that Nick and I went into debt on getting a new roof this year with the wind and rainstorms we've been having.

My son has 4 staples in his head from the weather causing an accident at school, but is otherwise ok-and I'll have lots of fence/yard repairs to do, but otherwise we're ok.  I have to do this at work, as I have no contact with the outer world at home other than my cell phone.

Between that and the problems my baking has been giving me this week, I've come *THIS* close to opening up my pretty purple package from the gift exchange (which arrived 11/23!) instead of waiting until the 23rd for our Yule (Teren goes to his dad's on Xmas Eve for 4 days--we celebrate early instead).

Hoping that everyone is fine and enjoying the holidays--I have my Mod books in from the library, and hope to read them on the 25th.

Jonnalyhn Wolfcat/ Angharat
(very glad she's a SCAdian, and thus has heating and cooking equipment!)


 
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Dec 15 15:51:10 2006
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From: "Elisabeth Doornink" <missdoornink@gmail.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Checking in from the Pacific NorthWET (and Windy)
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Status: RO

We had a large rotten maple tree fall on a row boat owned by my cousin, and
our power was out for about 30 minutes. But the tree is going to be a huge
mess to clean up. We stayed up for hours watching the light show of
transformers - and were very thankful that ours is on the ground and we live
on a highway that has a main powerline. We were a bit worried, though,
because both our septic field and well are uphill from us...water becomes an
issue. Yes, we have a creek and the bay in front of us...but still. 

Very thankful in Poulsbo for power and praying for those who don't!

(Your comment about being a SCAdian made me laugh - we're set because my dad
kayaks and has tons of gear!)


Quia Christus Perpetuo Regnat, 
Elisabeth
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Angharad ver' Reynulf
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 12:07 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] OT: Checking in from the Pacific NorthWET (and Windy)

It's been a bit dampish here lately...(mocking grin) and I'm ever so glad
that Nick and I went into debt on getting a new roof this year with the wind
and rainstorms we've been having.

My son has 4 staples in his head from the weather causing an accident at
school, but is otherwise ok-and I'll have lots of fence/yard repairs to do,
but otherwise we're ok.  I have to do this at work, as I have no contact
with the outer world at home other than my cell phone.

Between that and the problems my baking has been giving me this week, I've
come *THIS* close to opening up my pretty purple package from the gift
exchange (which arrived 11/23!) instead of waiting until the 23rd for our
Yule (Teren goes to his dad's on Xmas Eve for 4 days--we celebrate early
instead).

Hoping that everyone is fine and enjoying the holidays--I have my Mod books
in from the library, and hope to read them on the 25th.

Jonnalyhn Wolfcat/ Angharat
(very glad she's a SCAdian, and thus has heating and cooking equipment!)


 
____________________________________________________________________________
________
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>, h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 0f belts and hanging sleeves
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Status: RO

Dawn wrote:
>> Funny, I see this same red as the shadow of the sleeve, robe, etc, not as a
>> second skirt.  I needed another reason to go back to the UK!
>Here's some of the copies. What do you think?
>http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Eliza32.jpg
>http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Eliza29.jpg
>http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Elizathanksgiving.jpg

I'm looking at the Ditchley portrait, the allegory of Elizabeth and
therefore England standing over the world. This is explicitly what
Kathleen asked about.
I think we're looking a different pictures all of which are painted by
Mannerists, which means they are explicitly not "photo-perfect" copies
of what the painter saw.  (Especially since in Elizabeth's case the
painter almost never saw Elizabeth herself. As I understand it, he
usually saw a Lady of the court modelling Liz's gown & jewels plus an
official portrait of Liz from which to model her face & hands.)

In your examples, I dont see open robes, and yes, in your
illustrations, the overskirt exposes a huge swath of forepart.  When I
challenged someone to find a large forepart, I meant a large *extant*
example rather than a picture.  I do not know of any in the
Manchester, V&A, NYMet or Harwick collections that could ever be as
wide as those illustrated. The only exceptions I know of are those
widened in a later period, and my knowledge is far from encyclopedic.

This is fun!  Thanks for challenging my views & implementations.
Certainly we'll never know the right answer and I'm more than happy
with my interchangeable ensemble solution.  I'm not making these
ridiculously complex clothes for political ends as Liz was.  My aim is
much more social.  I wanted to prove I could dance in that get up!
There's video proving I can.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Status: RO

Oil lamps and candle lanterns were the order of the day for us as well, or should I say the night.  Most of our county (Clark) lost power at some point, but we were only down about three hours.  

Our first year in the Pacific Northwest about 12 years back, we had a nasty February ice storm that toppled big trees in our neighborhood and left us without power for five days.  When it came time to buy the house, I made sure there were NO BIG TREES close enough to fall on us.  What I gave up in ambience more than pays off in peace of mind.

LuAnn in Vancouver

----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Elisabeth Doornink<mailto:missdoornink@gmail.com> 
  To: 'Historical Costume'<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 12:48 PM
  Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Checking in from the Pacific NorthWET (and Windy)


  We had a large rotten maple tree fall on a row boat owned by my cousin, and
  our power was out for about 30 minutes. But the tree is going to be a huge
  mess to clean up. We stayed up for hours watching the light show of
  transformers - and were very thankful that ours is on the ground and we live
  on a highway that has a main powerline. We were a bit worried, though,
  because both our septic field and well are uphill from us...water becomes an
  issue. Yes, we have a creek and the bay in front of us...but still. 

  Very thankful in Poulsbo for power and praying for those who don't!

  (Your comment about being a SCAdian made me laugh - we're set because my dad
  kayaks and has tons of gear!)


  Quia Christus Perpetuo Regnat, 
  Elisabeth
  -----Original Message-----
  From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com<mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
  Behalf Of Angharad ver' Reynulf
  Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 12:07 PM
  To: Historical Costume
  Subject: [h-cost] OT: Checking in from the Pacific NorthWET (and Windy)

  It's been a bit dampish here lately...(mocking grin) and I'm ever so glad
  that Nick and I went into debt on getting a new roof this year with the wind
  and rainstorms we've been having.

  My son has 4 staples in his head from the weather causing an accident at
  school, but is otherwise ok-and I'll have lots of fence/yard repairs to do,
  but otherwise we're ok.  I have to do this at work, as I have no contact
  with the outer world at home other than my cell phone.

  Between that and the problems my baking has been giving me this week, I've
  come *THIS* close to opening up my pretty purple package from the gift
  exchange (which arrived 11/23!) instead of waiting until the 23rd for our
  Yule (Teren goes to his dad's on Xmas Eve for 4 days--we celebrate early
  instead).

  Hoping that everyone is fine and enjoying the holidays--I have my Mod books
  in from the library, and hope to read them on the 25th.

  Jonnalyhn Wolfcat/ Angharat
  (very glad she's a SCAdian, and thus has heating and cooking equipment!)


   
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http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Thebes/4260/ditchley.html

De

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Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2006 16:09:31 -0500
From: monica spence <monicaspence@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] New book 14th C Italy
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Robin wrote: ..."after Moda i Firenze, Dressing
Renaissance Florence, and so many others. I picked the wrong part of
Europe to focus on, apparently."

No, it is just that Italy was ignored for so long!

Monica

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 12:42 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New book 14th C Italy



On Thu, 14 Dec 2006, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:

> After all the talk about books that are delayed in publication, I thought
> that I'd mention one that I've just got in today. Has anyone else seen it?
>
> Beth
>
> Gilding the Market: Luxury and Fashion in Fourteenth-Century Italy by
Susan
> Mosher Stuard 336 pages | 6 1/8 x 9 1/4 | 14 color, 10 b/w illus. Cloth
Dec
> 2005 | ISBN 0812239008
> http://www.upenn.edu/pennpress/book/14208.html

We have a review of it in our upcoming volume of MC&T. Our reviewer liked
it. It apparently has a social/economic focus but uses everything from
sumptuary laws to visual arts as sources. Yet another great resource for
people studying Italian clothing ... after Moda i Firenze, Dressing
Renaissance Florence, and so many others. I picked the wrong part of
Europe to focus on, apparently.

--Robin


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>From another list. I wonder if this is a lost art.
De

-----Original Message-----
Natural dying with mushrooms:
http://www.sonic.net/~dbeebee/web_mush-history.htm
 
Look at those fantastic colours.
Old technique re-discovered?
 
Gullveig.


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From: "Elisabeth Doornink" <missdoornink@gmail.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Checking in from the Pacific NorthWET (and Windy)
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Status: RO

Would that have been 1990? Because I was 3 months old during that storm (can
you believe it!) and we moved out of the house we were renting for a week to
my Grandmother's - we were loosing 5 degrees an hour inside and pack up when
the cat's water froze. INSIDE. My grandparents had a stove that the water
was plumbed into and the water was gravity fed, so they had it pretty good,
even though the transformer blew. 

Our friends, on the other hand, were housebound for a week due to huge
trees. They had a stick penetrate their roof - my dad's picture of it is
really amazing. There is just a stick straight through their roof to the
inside. 

It gives me a huge respect for the families that moved here, especially from
places like Norway and Finland, where my ancestors lived. They moved here
(to the land we live on now) sometime around 1895. To brave the wet and rain
and dry in the summer to farm for a living in this rocky soil...amazing. 

Quia Christus Perpetuo Regnat, 
Elisabeth

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of LuAnn Mason
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 5:10 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Checking in from the Pacific NorthWET (and Windy)

Oil lamps and candle lanterns were the order of the day for us as well, or
should I say the night.  Most of our county (Clark) lost power at some
point, but we were only down about three hours.  

Our first year in the Pacific Northwest about 12 years back, we had a nasty
February ice storm that toppled big trees in our neighborhood and left us
without power for five days.  When it came time to buy the house, I made
sure there were NO BIG TREES close enough to fall on us.  What I gave up in
ambience more than pays off in peace of mind.

LuAnn in Vancouver

----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Elisabeth Doornink<mailto:missdoornink@gmail.com> 
  To: 'Historical Costume'<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 12:48 PM
  Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Checking in from the Pacific NorthWET (and
Windy)


  We had a large rotten maple tree fall on a row boat owned by my cousin,
and
  our power was out for about 30 minutes. But the tree is going to be a huge
  mess to clean up. We stayed up for hours watching the light show of
  transformers - and were very thankful that ours is on the ground and we
live
  on a highway that has a main powerline. We were a bit worried, though,
  because both our septic field and well are uphill from us...water becomes
an
  issue. Yes, we have a creek and the bay in front of us...but still. 

  Very thankful in Poulsbo for power and praying for those who don't!

  (Your comment about being a SCAdian made me laugh - we're set because my
dad
  kayaks and has tons of gear!)


  Quia Christus Perpetuo Regnat, 
  Elisabeth
  -----Original Message-----
  From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com<mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com>
[mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
  Behalf Of Angharad ver' Reynulf
  Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 12:07 PM
  To: Historical Costume
  Subject: [h-cost] OT: Checking in from the Pacific NorthWET (and Windy)

  It's been a bit dampish here lately...(mocking grin) and I'm ever so glad
  that Nick and I went into debt on getting a new roof this year with the
wind
  and rainstorms we've been having.

  My son has 4 staples in his head from the weather causing an accident at
  school, but is otherwise ok-and I'll have lots of fence/yard repairs to
do,
  but otherwise we're ok.  I have to do this at work, as I have no contact
  with the outer world at home other than my cell phone.

  Between that and the problems my baking has been giving me this week, I've
  come *THIS* close to opening up my pretty purple package from the gift
  exchange (which arrived 11/23!) instead of waiting until the 23rd for our
  Yule (Teren goes to his dad's on Xmas Eve for 4 days--we celebrate early
  instead).

  Hoping that everyone is fine and enjoying the holidays--I have my Mod
books
  in from the library, and hope to read them on the 25th.

  Jonnalyhn Wolfcat/ Angharat
  (very glad she's a SCAdian, and thus has heating and cooking equipment!)


   
 
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <458349d4.0f8f2c8c.3cd5.7892@mx.google.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Checking in from the Pacific NorthWET (and Windy)
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2006 20:49:40 -0800
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Status: RO

If my memory serves, it would have been January or February of 1996.  My daughter was born in December of 1991, and we moved here when she was 3 1/2, in the summer of 1995.  We only lived at the house in Tigard for a year, so it had to be the winter of 1995/96, and I remember it was after Christmas.

Eek, it's hard to get old....

LuAnn

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Elisabeth Doornink<mailto:missdoornink@gmail.com> 
  To: 'Historical Costume'<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 5:20 PM
  Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Checking in from the Pacific NorthWET (and Windy)


  Would that have been 1990? Because I was 3 months old during that storm (can
  you believe it!) and we moved out of the house we were renting for a week to
  my Grandmother's - we were loosing 5 degrees an hour inside and pack up when
  the cat's water froze. INSIDE. My grandparents had a stove that the water
  was plumbed into and the water was gravity fed, so they had it pretty good,
  even though the transformer blew. 

  Our friends, on the other hand, were housebound for a week due to huge
  trees. They had a stick penetrate their roof - my dad's picture of it is
  really amazing. There is just a stick straight through their roof to the
  inside. 

  It gives me a huge respect for the families that moved here, especially from
  places like Norway and Finland, where my ancestors lived. They moved here
  (to the land we live on now) sometime around 1895. To brave the wet and rain
  and dry in the summer to farm for a living in this rocky soil...amazing. 

  Quia Christus Perpetuo Regnat, 
  Elisabeth

  -----Original Message-----
  From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com<mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
  Behalf Of LuAnn Mason
  Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 5:10 PM
  To: Historical Costume
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Checking in from the Pacific NorthWET (and Windy)

  Oil lamps and candle lanterns were the order of the day for us as well, or
  should I say the night.  Most of our county (Clark) lost power at some
  point, but we were only down about three hours.  

  Our first year in the Pacific Northwest about 12 years back, we had a nasty
  February ice storm that toppled big trees in our neighborhood and left us
  without power for five days.  When it came time to buy the house, I made
  sure there were NO BIG TREES close enough to fall on us.  What I gave up in
  ambience more than pays off in peace of mind.

  LuAnn in Vancouver

  ----- Original Message ----- 
    From: Elisabeth Doornink<mailto:missdoornink@gmail.com<mailto:missdoornink@gmail.com>> 
    To: 'Historical Costume'<mailto:h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com>> 
    Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 12:48 PM
    Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Checking in from the Pacific NorthWET (and
  Windy)


    We had a large rotten maple tree fall on a row boat owned by my cousin,
  and
    our power was out for about 30 minutes. But the tree is going to be a huge
    mess to clean up. We stayed up for hours watching the light show of
    transformers - and were very thankful that ours is on the ground and we
  live
    on a highway that has a main powerline. We were a bit worried, though,
    because both our septic field and well are uphill from us...water becomes
  an
    issue. Yes, we have a creek and the bay in front of us...but still. 

    Very thankful in Poulsbo for power and praying for those who don't!

    (Your comment about being a SCAdian made me laugh - we're set because my
  dad
    kayaks and has tons of gear!)


    Quia Christus Perpetuo Regnat, 
    Elisabeth
    -----Original Message-----
    From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com<mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com<mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com<mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com>>
  [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
    Behalf Of Angharad ver' Reynulf
    Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 12:07 PM
    To: Historical Costume
    Subject: [h-cost] OT: Checking in from the Pacific NorthWET (and Windy)

    It's been a bit dampish here lately...(mocking grin) and I'm ever so glad
    that Nick and I went into debt on getting a new roof this year with the
  wind
    and rainstorms we've been having.

    My son has 4 staples in his head from the weather causing an accident at
    school, but is otherwise ok-and I'll have lots of fence/yard repairs to
  do,
    but otherwise we're ok.  I have to do this at work, as I have no contact
    with the outer world at home other than my cell phone.

    Between that and the problems my baking has been giving me this week, I've
    come *THIS* close to opening up my pretty purple package from the gift
    exchange (which arrived 11/23!) instead of waiting until the 23rd for our
    Yule (Teren goes to his dad's on Xmas Eve for 4 days--we celebrate early
    instead).

    Hoping that everyone is fine and enjoying the holidays--I have my Mod
  books
    in from the library, and hope to read them on the 25th.

    Jonnalyhn Wolfcat/ Angharat
    (very glad she's a SCAdian, and thus has heating and cooking equipment!)


     
   
  ____________________________________________________________________________
    ________
    Do you Yahoo!?
    Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
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From: Kimiko Small <sstormwatch@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FW:  Mushrooms!!
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I vaguely remember something about mushroom dyeing with the Scots (16th century or so), but I may be mistaken. I know they did lichen dyes back then (they did purples with lichens), and there is some work on that in modern times.
   
  But this is cool. Thanks for sharing.
   
  Kimiko
  

otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
  >From another list. I wonder if this is a lost art.
De

-----Original Message-----
Natural dying with mushrooms:
http://www.sonic.net/~dbeebee/web_mush-history.htm

Look at those fantastic colours.
Old technique re-discovered?

Gullveig.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] H-Cost: Fwd: New Google Patent Search
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Love it!  Be sure to check the advanced search option--you can search by 
date range as well.

-E House 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 0f belts and hanging sleeves
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Status: RO

Dancing in the "get up" sounds like a challenge.!

I have been searching out every picture/portrait of QE1 I can find and 
minutely looking for further clues as interpreted in the discussion.  I've 
made my way in the local theater world with 40 years of interpreting 
historical costumes from such resources; I have made a certain reputation by 
being able to translate the look (at least) into a reacognizable 3D garment. 
This  particular Era has been quite familiar in past  production 
design...but never to the scale or historicity I am now attempting in 
miniature.  Thank you all for giving me new eyesight with which to solve the 
design problem I have set for myself.

Progress!  The sleeve sets are installed in the bodice and I am happily at 
work making tiny beaded gold lace rosettes to be applied to the whole gown 
in its many parts! The edges of all are souched with tiny pearls.  By 
counting the numbers as they appear on the hanging sleeve, I have been able 
to work out the approximate scale for the placement of the roessetts.  I am 
making an attempt to follow the *repeat of three* which I believe Hunnisett 
worked out for her Ditchely Gown. The major demarkation from the Portraits 
is that my background fabric is already textured...it being a 1950's  1/8th" 
woven ribbon fabric.

LA!! Kathleen


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cin" <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>; "h-cost" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 6:43 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 0f belts and hanging sleeves


> Dawn wrote:
>>> Funny, I see this same red as the shadow of the sleeve, robe, etc, not 
>>> as a
>>> second skirt.  I needed another reason to go back to the UK!
>>Here's some of the copies. What do you think?
>>http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Eliza32.jpg
>>http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Eliza29.jpg
>>http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Elizathanksgiving.jpg
>
> I'm looking at the Ditchley portrait, the allegory of Elizabeth and
> therefore England standing over the world. This is explicitly what
> Kathleen asked about.
> I think we're looking a different pictures all of which are painted by
> Mannerists, which means they are explicitly not "photo-perfect" copies
> of what the painter saw.  (Especially since in Elizabeth's case the
> painter almost never saw Elizabeth herself. As I understand it, he
> usually saw a Lady of the court modelling Liz's gown & jewels plus an
> official portrait of Liz from which to model her face & hands.)
>
> In your examples, I dont see open robes, and yes, in your
> illustrations, the overskirt exposes a huge swath of forepart.  When I
> challenged someone to find a large forepart, I meant a large *extant*
> example rather than a picture.  I do not know of any in the
> Manchester, V&A, NYMet or Harwick collections that could ever be as
> wide as those illustrated. The only exceptions I know of are those
> widened in a later period, and my knowledge is far from encyclopedic.
>
> This is fun!  Thanks for challenging my views & implementations.
> Certainly we'll never know the right answer and I'm more than happy
> with my interchangeable ensemble solution.  I'm not making these
> ridiculously complex clothes for political ends as Liz was.  My aim is
> much more social.  I wanted to prove I could dance in that get up!
> There's video proving I can.
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Sorry, I guess I just picked up on the name, and skipped over the country.
I know that the doll is swedish, not danish.

By the way, Bjarne, last year I received from you the embroidered purse.  I
don't remember if I managed to thank you for it with all the crazy things
that were happeneding at this time last year.  It is beautiful and I love
it.

Thanks again
Alex


On 12/14/06, Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
>
> Hi,
> It could still be a daughter to Christian IV, he was married before with a
> lady from Germany, her name was Anne Cathrine, she died early in 1604 i
> think but had 2 sons and 2 daughters with the king, but only one of the
> boys
> survived childhood.
> Is it the doll from Livrustkammaren in QEWU ? that is a swedish doll, not
> danish.
>
> Bjarne
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 9:46 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Christian IV of Denmark was: Gack! Is she pregnant
> orisshe not? Need your opinions!
>
>
> > It wasn't a painting that I was thinking of, but the so called fashion
> > doll
> > in QEWU that I was thinking to be credited to one of Christian's
> > daughters,
> > dated about 1598 iirc.  I'll have to go look at that again, because if
> > this
> > portrait is dated to 1620, then it's not these girl's toy...  Maybe
> > Christian's sister?  Did he have one or more sisters?
> >
> > thanks
> > alex
> >
> > On 12/13/06, Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi Alex
> >> Are you sure its the same picture?
> >> I know a certain portrait from same period where the girls are holding
> >> dolls
> >> in their hands, but its not the same portrait.
> >> In this portrait they have no dolls.
> >> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/kirstenmunk.htm
> >>
> >> Bjarne
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Alexandria Doyle" <garbaholic@gmail.com>
> >> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> >> Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 8:54 PM
> >> Subject: [h-cost] Christian IV of Denmark was: Gack! Is she pregnant or
> >> isshe not? Need your opinions!
> >>
> >>
> >> > On 12/13/06, Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> Another portrait, similar in style, but a little later, She has the
> >> same
> >> >> kind of bodice-peplum and stomacher, but the roll is not as big as
> the
> >> >> other
> >> >> one posted. This is a replika from a larger portrait, where she is
> >> >> with
> >> 3
> >> >> of
> >> >> her daughters and a son, the girls wear same type of dress as the
> >> mother.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > Bjarne,
> >> >
> >> > I know I could probably find this if I dug, but I thought you might
> >> > know
> >> > or
> >> > can get this info a little easier... Do you know the names of the
> >> > daughters
> >> > and approx year of birth?  There is a doll reported to have belong to
> >> one
> >> > of
> >> > these girls and I was wondering if it might be possible to get a
> better
> >> > guess which one it was...
> >> >
> >> > thanks
> >> > alex
> >> > _______________________________________________
> >> > h-costume mailing list
> >> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> h-costume mailing list
> >> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: OT: Checking in from the Pacific NorthWET (and Windy)
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Wet??!! November unofficial measurement at our house was 8 1/2 inches before the 2 feet of snow.
   
  We got it pretty bad with the first storm this year. Fortunately power not out at both houses at the same time (still remodeling and moving!) Not so bad this last one, just a few blinks of the lights, but you folks in the Seattle area sure got pounded. Still, more branches to pick up out of the yeard.
   
  Driving home from shopping during the second - not so bad - storm with MIL we got to see this bright blue glowing ball of light hang over the road ahead for several seconds - not the typical transformer flash - it was very strange.
   
  Big storm about 12 years ago? Would that have been 11?  Winter of 95-96 left 3' of snow in my yard for weeks. The following year not as much snow but very wet and heavy brought down a lot of barn rooves.
   
  Hope everyone is safe and sound now.
   
  Annette T in very soggy Bellingham


    original message
   
  Message: 10
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2006 17:20:15 -0800
From: "Elisabeth Doornink" <missdoornink@gmail.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Checking in from the Pacific NorthWET (and
 Windy)

Would that have been 1990? Because I was 3 months old during that storm 
(can
you believe it!) and we moved out of the house we were renting for a 
week to
my Grandmother's - we were loosing 5 degrees an hour inside and pack up 
when
the cat's water froze. INSIDE. My grandparents had a stove that the 
water
was plumbed into and the water was gravity fed, so they had it pretty 
good,
even though the transformer blew. 

Our friends, on the other hand, were housebound for a week due to huge
trees. They had a stick penetrate their roof - my dad's picture of it 
is
really amazing. There is just a stick straight through their roof to 
the
inside. 

It gives me a huge respect for the families that moved here, especially 
from
places like Norway and Finland, where my ancestors lived. They moved 
here
(to the land we live on now) sometime around 1895. To brave the wet and 
rain
and dry in the summer to farm for a living in this rocky 
soil...amazing. 

Quia Christus Perpetuo Regnat, 
Elisabeth

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] 
On
Behalf Of LuAnn Mason
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 5:10 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Checking in from the Pacific NorthWET (and 
Windy)

Oil lamps and candle lanterns were the order of the day for us as well, 
or
should I say the night.  Most of our county (Clark) lost power at some
point, but we were only down about three hours.  

Our first year in the Pacific Northwest about 12 years back, we had a 
nasty
February ice storm that toppled big trees in our neighborhood and left 
us
without power for five days.  When it came time to buy the house, I 
made
sure there were NO BIG TREES close enough to fall on us.  What I gave 
up in
ambience more than pays off in peace of mind.

LuAnn in Vancouver

----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Elisabeth Doornink<mailto:missdoornink@gmail.com> 
  To: 'Historical Costume'<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 12:48 PM
  Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Checking in from the Pacific NorthWET (and
Windy)


  We had a large rotten maple tree fall on a row boat owned by my 
cousin,
and
  our power was out for about 30 minutes. But the tree is going to be a 
huge
  mess to clean up. We stayed up for hours watching the light show of
  transformers - and were very thankful that ours is on the ground and 
we
live
  on a highway that has a main powerline. We were a bit worried, 
though,
  because both our septic field and well are uphill from us...water 
becomes
an
  issue. Yes, we have a creek and the bay in front of us...but still. 

  Very thankful in Poulsbo for power and praying for those who don't!

  (Your comment about being a SCAdian made me laugh - we're set because 
my
dad
  kayaks and has tons of gear!)


  Quia Christus Perpetuo Regnat, 
  Elisabeth
  -----Original Message-----
  From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com<mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com>
[mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
  Behalf Of Angharad ver' Reynulf
  Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 12:07 PM
  To: Historical Costume
  Subject: [h-cost] OT: Checking in from the Pacific NorthWET (and 
Windy)

  It's been a bit dampish here lately...(mocking grin) and I'm ever so 
glad
  that Nick and I went into debt on getting a new roof this year with 
the
wind
  and rainstorms we've been having.

  My son has 4 staples in his head from the weather causing an accident 
at
  school, but is otherwise ok-and I'll have lots of fence/yard repairs 
to
do,
  but otherwise we're ok.  I have to do this at work, as I have no 
contact
  with the outer world at home other than my cell phone.

  Between that and the problems my baking has been giving me this week, 
I've
  come *THIS* close to opening up my pretty purple package from the 
gift
  exchange (which arrived 11/23!) instead of waiting until the 23rd for 
our
  Yule (Teren goes to his dad's on Xmas Eve for 4 days--we celebrate 
early
  instead).

  Hoping that everyone is fine and enjoying the holidays--I have my Mod
books
  in from the library, and hope to read them on the 25th.

  Jonnalyhn Wolfcat/ Angharat
  (very glad she's a SCAdian, and thus has heating and cooking 
equipment!)




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New book 14th C Italy
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Actually, there still isn't anything available to introduce this style to the person who just wants to make clothes, as opposed to doing in-depth research.  The artwork shows a number of styles and variations, many of them simple to construct and wear and Italian styles are extremely popular at SCA events.  A book that explains the different styles and gives some guidance as to how to do it RIGHT really needs to be written.

Janet

  Robin wrote: ..."after Moda i Firenze, Dressing
  Renaissance Florence, and so many others. I picked the wrong part of
  Europe to focus on, apparently."

  No, it is just that Italy was ignored for so long!

  Monica
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New book 14th C Italy
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Status: RO

On Saturday 16 December 2006 4:57 pm, JAMES OGILVIE wrote:
> Actually, there still isn't anything available to introduce this style to
> the person who just wants to make clothes, as opposed to doing in-depth
> research.  The artwork shows a number of styles and variations, many of
> them simple to construct and wear and Italian styles are extremely popular
> at SCA events.  A book that explains the different styles and gives some
> guidance as to how to do it RIGHT really needs to be written.

There may not be books, but there are websites.  I don't know how these would 
pass muster with you from a historical accuracy perspective (Italian Ren is 
not my primary area) but the following sites look pretty good to me from the 
perspective of "just making clothes":

http://homepages.wmich.edu/~rowen/renbk/rendressbook.html
http://ilaria.veltri.tripod.com/italiandress.html

These are actually late 15th century, though.  For 14th, aren't you just in 
the so-called "cotehardie" or "Gothic fitted dress" era (especially in Italy 
where simpler styles tended to prevail during that period)?  There are good 
sites for that too:

http://www.cottesimple.com/
http://www.netherton.net/robin/ (the fourth link from the top of the page is 
to a PDF with useful information)
http://www.maybe.org/~rodmur/sca/Cotehardie.html (all about how to alter a 
particular commercial pattern into a plausible period garment)

Of course, the would-be seamstress/seamster will have to decide which if any 
of these methods works with their level of skill/desired level of 
authenticity....

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point
of doubtful sanity."  --Robert Frost


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New book 14th C Italy
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At 00:40 17/12/2006, you wrote:
>On Saturday 16 December 2006 4:57 pm, JAMES OGILVIE wrote:
> > Actually, there still isn't anything available to introduce this style to
> > the person who just wants to make clothes, as opposed to doing in-depth
> > research.  The artwork shows a number of styles and variations, many of
> > them simple to construct and wear and Italian styles are extremely popular
> > at SCA events.  A book that explains the different styles and gives some
> > guidance as to how to do it RIGHT really needs to be written.
>
>There may not be books, but there are websites.  I don't know how these would
>pass muster with you from a historical accuracy perspective (Italian Ren is
>not my primary area) but the following sites look pretty good to me from the
>perspective of "just making clothes":
>
>http://homepages.wmich.edu/~rowen/renbk/rendressbook.html
>http://ilaria.veltri.tripod.com/italiandress.html
>
>These are actually late 15th century, though.  For 14th, aren't you just in
>the so-called "cotehardie" or "Gothic fitted dress" era (especially in Italy
>where simpler styles tended to prevail during that period)?  There are good
>sites for that too:
>
>http://www.cottesimple.com/
>http://www.netherton.net/robin/ (the fourth link from the top of the page is
>to a PDF with useful information)
>http://www.maybe.org/~rodmur/sca/Cotehardie.html (all about how to alter a
>particular commercial pattern into a plausible period garment)
>
>Of course, the would-be seamstress/seamster will have to decide which if any
>of these methods works with their level of skill/desired level of
>authenticity....

And Jean Hunnisett has a few patterns in her "Period Costume for 
Stage and Screen Medieval to 1500".

Suzi

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] FW:  Mushrooms!!
Date: Sun, 17 Dec 2006 00:46:55 -0800
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Status: RO

Someone at Ren Faire dyes using mushrooms, bark, walnut husks, etc. Gets
some lovely colors.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 8:13 PM
To: Historic Costume
Subject: [h-cost] FW: Mushrooms!!


>From another list. I wonder if this is a lost art.
De

-----Original Message-----
Natural dying with mushrooms:
http://www.sonic.net/~dbeebee/web_mush-history.htm
 
Look at those fantastic colours.
Old technique re-discovered?
 
Gullveig.


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Subject: [h-cost] question re: floss silks for embroidery
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Hi all. I'm researching embroidery materials and keep bumping into
references that mention floss silks. Might anyone know how early these
were used and/or have some possible sources they could point me to?

Thanks!

Arlys

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Subject: [h-cost] RE:question re: floss silks for embroidery 
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	Silk flosses have been found back into ancient Persia and China, BC.
As to sources, well, there are tons. What period and region are you
interested in?

Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org

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Status: RO

I know a lot of folks here have collections of images taken from web 
gallery sites, to use as inspiration or reference help with their 
costuming. I'd like to share a little program my husband has written to 
help himself keep track of images, and to display them as desktop 
wallpaper.

First, let me say he's not selling anything, this is a freebie he 
developed in his spare time.

The program, PixAddix Image Collector, makes a database to keep track of 
the location of each image, it's size, and where the image was 
downloaded from. When you import or download an image the program will 
automatically find a directory and save the image to that directory. If 
there is another image with the same name it will automatically rename 
the image for you. Since these tasks are all automated you need do 
nothing but indicate what you want in your collection. This makes it 
much faster and easier than clicking, navigating to a directory, 
creating one for that web page if you haven't done it before, then 
saving it.

There is also a desktop wallpaper changer program that displays your 
collection on your monitor. There is a screen saver program to display 
images while your computer is idle. A gallery generator program is in 
the works to make your collection into a web gallery.

I thought costumers might like to try this. Many of us save images for 
our own use, and then have them scattered all over the hard drive, with 
no way to keep track of where they came from.  My husband, Jay, has set 
up a google group and FAQ here:

http://groups-beta.google.com/group/PixAddix

If you think you'd like to try it, or have questions, please ask in the 
PixAddix group, as I really don't know the technical details. I just 
thought this sounded useful. :)



Dawn

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Status: RO

Arlys,

I can happily confirm they go back *at least* as far as the sixteenth century in Sicily, having had first hand experience with stranded floss silks in use. They sewed garments and made lace with them, in my experience.

I can even help you find some to experiment with. ;-) The store exists, but is not ready yet for orders. email me off list if you are interested.

Kathy Page
~New Stranded Floss Embroidery Silk Enabler~
www.outoftheattic.biz/store
Might even delve into spiffy cambric linens, as well one day soon...
 
Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert
(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules.

It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131

Hi all. I'm researching embroidery materials and keep bumping into
references that mention floss silks. Might anyone know how early these
were used and/or have some possible sources they could point me to?






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Status: RO

On Sun, 17 Dec 2006 15:29:09 -0800 (PST) Kathy Page
<caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca> writes:
> Arlys,
> 
> I can happily confirm they go back *at least* as far as the 
> sixteenth century in Sicily, having had first hand experience with 
> stranded floss silks in use. They sewed garments and made lace with 
> them, in my experience.

Very nice! They also appear in the Hardwick (Elizabeth of Shrewsbury)
inventories, as polychrome floss silks used for cushion covers
(_Elizabethan Treasures the Hardwick Hall Embroideries by Santina Levey,
pg 47_).
 
> I can even help you find some to experiment with. ;-) The store 
> exists, but is not ready yet for orders. email me off list if you 
> are interested.

thank you. I've been working in floss silk for years--it's loverly stuff
for a lot of things, incl. blackwork. I'm trying to trace its history a
bit. :-)

Arlys
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Europe, roughly 800-1600. Co-teaching a survey of needlework class next
fall, trying to get a leg up on fibers.

Thank you all for your help! :-)

Arlys

On Sun, 17 Dec 2006 14:21:49 -0500 "Five Rivers Chapmanry"
<lgsteph@wightman.ca> writes:
> 	Silk flosses have been found back into ancient Persia and 
> China, BC.
> As to sources, well, there are tons. What period and region are you
> interested in?
> 
> Lorina
> Five Rivers Chapmanry
> purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted 
> cooperage,
> re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
> 519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 

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From: "Bonnie Booker" <aspasia1@gmail.com>
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Is there any way to get message history. There are some things I know
were discussed in the past and I would like to look at them again
without hashing it all out over again.

-- 
Aspasia Moonwind
_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Messages history
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Try the archives
http://www.mail-archive.com/h-costume@mail.indra.com/

Or, for older conversations, the other archives
http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/Fashion/

(If there are more, please let me know!)
Emma

Quoting Bonnie Booker <aspasia1@gmail.com>:

> Is there any way to get message history. There are some things I know
> were discussed in the past and I would like to look at them again
> without hashing it all out over again.
> 
> -- 
> Aspasia Moonwind
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 



http://anvil.unl.edu/emma
http://HelixHandworks.etsy.com
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Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2006 11:59:10 -0600 (CST)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Messages history
In-Reply-To: <e135879a0612180835t371a8d20u4457a6e0c2c00347@mail.gmail.com>
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On Mon, 18 Dec 2006, Bonnie Booker wrote:

> Is there any way to get message history. There are some things I know
> were discussed in the past and I would like to look at them again
> without hashing it all out over again.

For older posts, go to Eric's collection of past posts, kept in text files
month by month, at http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion/archives/ .

To find recent individual posts, try
http://news.gmane.org/gmane.culture.studies.history.costume (since about
June 2005 I think)

Another option for recent posts:  
http://www.mail-archive.com/h-costume@mail.indra.com/index.html#03702
(since about the same time).

--Robin

_______________________________________________
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2006 11:27:27 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Messages history
From: "Chiara Francesca" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Please note that Eric did tell us that he edited the posts that are
on his archive.

Older archives are at ... ftp://ftp.io.com/pub/usr/ches/index.html


On Mon, December 18, 2006 11:59 am, Robin Netherton said:
>
> On Mon, 18 Dec 2006, Bonnie Booker wrote:
>
>> Is there any way to get message history. There are some things I
>> know
>> were discussed in the past and I would like to look at them again
>> without hashing it all out over again.
>
> For older posts, go to Eric's collection of past posts, kept in text
> files
> month by month, at http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion/archives/ .
>
> To find recent individual posts, try
> http://news.gmane.org/gmane.culture.studies.history.costume (since
> about
> June 2005 I think)
>
> Another option for recent posts:
> http://www.mail-archive.com/h-costume@mail.indra.com/index.html#03702
> (since about the same time).
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>




_______________________________________________
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Messages history
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On Mon, 18 Dec 2006, Chiara Francesca wrote:

> Please note that Eric did tell us that he edited the posts that are
> on his archive.
> 
> Older archives are at ... ftp://ftp.io.com/pub/usr/ches/index.html

Thanks! I'd lost that site, and couldn't find it. Glad to have it again.

--Robin

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From: "Five Rivers Chapmanry" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2006 05:07:37 -0500
Organization: Five Rivers
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: question re: floss silks for embroidery 
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Status: RO

	Well, if you're looking for the period 800-1600, certainly I would
highly recommend the tome written by Schuette and someone or other (memory
fails me) called The Art of Embroidery. You can get it through inter-library
loan, although I did so often I finally broke down and spent an entire
year's book budget on my own copy. It is considered a rare book and you will
likely have to use it in-house. It is also considered an extremely
well-researched and scholarly book, with detailed provenance and technical
background which is still considered accurate. There are examples in the
book dating to ancient China and Persia, but for your purposes there are
some exquisite examples of Opus Anglicanum (mantle of St. Cuthbert, c. 800AD
to the peerless Burgundian Vestments, c. 16th century), all of which not
only use copious amounts of silk thread, but gold, my own personal passion.

	Interesting, btw, you're teaching a class on this. I give several
lectures, as well as teach several classes, on various aspects of historical
embroidery, one of which is a history of embroidery.

Regards,
Lorina 
Five Rivers Chapmanry
purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.
519-799-5577 info@5rivers.org - www.5rivers.org



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: question re: floss silks for embroidery 
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Status: RO

At 10:07 19/12/2006, you wrote:
>         Well, if you're looking for the period 800-1600, certainly I would
>highly recommend the tome written by Schuette and someone or other (memory
>fails me) called The Art of Embroidery. You can get it through inter-library
>loan, although I did so often I finally broke down and spent an entire
>year's book budget on my own copy. It is considered a rare book and you will
>likely have to use it in-house. It is also considered an extremely
>well-researched and scholarly book, with detailed provenance and technical
>background which is still considered accurate. There are examples in the
>book dating to ancient China and Persia, but for your purposes there are
>some exquisite examples of Opus Anglicanum (mantle of St. Cuthbert, c. 800AD
>to the peerless Burgundian Vestments, c. 16th century), all of which not
>only use copious amounts of silk thread, but gold, my own personal passion.
>
>         Interesting, btw, you're teaching a class on this. I give several
>lectures, as well as teach several classes, on various aspects of historical
>embroidery, one of which is a history of embroidery.


Or you buy a much cheaper, but very useful small book by a former 
curator of the Museum of London, called "Embroiderers" which also has 
information about Opus Anglicorum.

http://www.alibris.com/search/books/author/Staniland,%20Kay

Suzi

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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>, h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: re: [h-cost] costume pictures and keeping track of them
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Status: RO

Thank-you, Jay!
Yes I do collect... or rather amass pictures.  This sounds really useful!
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

Subject: [h-cost] costume pictures and keeping track of them
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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<snip>

I thought costumers might like to try this. Many of us save images for
our own use, and then have them scattered all over the hard drive, with
no way to keep track of where they came from.  My husband, Jay, has set
up a google group and FAQ here:

http://groups-beta.google.com/group/PixAddix

Dawn
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Sorry for the commercial crassness... I know the matter has been discussed here, though, and I'm very excited that the policy has now changed!

I just got official permission from the owner to announce that Fashion Fabrics Club will now ship to Canada and western Europe (yay!).  The website isn't set up for it yet--and with the delays we've had, it'll be a while--but if you call in an order you'll be able to request it.  If the person who takes your order isn't aware of this, have them ask the owner, Tom.  Australia/NZ wasn't mentioned, but it's worth asking about.

-E House
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