From: Gretchen Miller Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1993 14:44:03 -0500 (EST) Subject: H-Costume Digest, Volume 6, 11/22/93 The Historic Costume List Digest, Volume 6, November 22, 1993 Send items for the list to h-costume@andrew.cmu.edu (or reply to this message). Send subscription/deletion requests and inquiries to h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Thanks and Enjoy! --------------------------------------------------------------- Topics: No Digest this weekend (Digest administrative note) Info about "After a Fashion: How to Reproduce, Restore, and Wear Vintage Styles" List questions 1930's clothing questions (and some answers) More info on Costume Con I2 Shoe soles 500-1200 Cleaning Costumes One more biography --------------------------------------------------------------- From: grm@andrew.cmu.edu Subject: Administrative note for Digest subscribers Folks, The Thanksgiving weekend is almost upon us. Because I'll be home with my family instead of here from Wednesday until Sunday of this week, and because "home" is Kentucky and "here" is Pennsylvania, there will be no digest between Tuesday (Nov 23) and Sunday (Nov 28). Digests will resume on Monday, November 29. Sorry about the inconvenience, and have a happy Thanksgiving (for those in the US) and a good weekend (for those outside the US). toodles, gretchen (h-costume list maintainer) ----------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 20 Nov 93 17:52:43 PST From: aterry@Teknowledge.COM (Allan Terry) Subject: Book info Several people sent me queries about my book, but I've been having trouble replying to some messages. So I'm posting a general message. My book After a Fashion: How to Reproduce, Restore, and Wear Vintage Styles has just been published. About half focuses on reproducing historic styles from medieval through Art Deco. The other half focuses on buying, restoring, and altering vintage clothes from Victorian through Art Deco. Both men's and women's clothes are discussed. The step-by-step instructions are suitable for beginning to advanced sewers. The book's vital statistics are: After a Fashion: How to Reproduce, Restore, and Wear Vintage Styles by Frances Grimble 8 1/2" X 11" quality paperback 352 pages 147 line drawings by Folkwear cover artist Deborah Kuhn Bibliography, resource list, metric conversion table, index Copies available: Now ISBN: 0-9636517-0-6 Publisher: Lavolta Press, 20 Meadowbrook Drive, San Francisco, CA 94132 Price: $35 + sales tax for CA residents + $3 shipping The book is now available by mail from Lavota Press. Fran Grimble ----------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 21 Nov 93 06:43:08 -0500 From: botteron@gnu.ai.mit.edu (Carol J. Botteron) Subject: Questions > i *love* this mailing list This message (someone unsubscribing) is the first message I've recieved since the intro. > since i've also > subscribed to it as an internet board, i don't need the messages This mailing list is gatewayed to a newsgroup? What's the name of the newsgroup, someone please? Carol Botteron botteron@gnu.ai.mit.edu ----------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 21 Nov 93 09:49:20 EST From: EKWINSLO@UNCCVM.UNCC.EDU Subject: 1930s clothing questions I am interested in *anything* having to do with clothing, shoes, period accessories, etc. from the 1930s. I have 2 specific questions for now, though: 1. Has anyone read the Dover book "Everyday Fashions of the 1930s as Portrayed in Sears Catalogs"? Was it very helpful? Are there fairly detailed notes about the clothing (like for the historic paperdolls)? 2. What about shoes? My impression of the styles of shoes of that period is that they did *not* usually have the slender "spike" heel we see so much of today. Instead, they seen to have thicker, "chunky" kinds of heels. This is based only on what I have seen of the shoes in movies from the 1930s. I have no idea how accurate an observation it is. Thanks in advance for any input anyone can give me! Erin ************************************************************************* * Erin R. Winslow * I don't speak for my employer because * * ekwinslo@unccvm.uncc.edu * I don't have one! :-) * ************************************************************************* ----------------------------------------------------------- From: close@lunch.asd.sgi.com (Diane Barlow Close) Subject: Re: Questions Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1993 12:57:19 -0800 (PST) > > subscribed to it as an internet board, i don't need the messages > This mailing list is gatewayed to a newsgroup? This mailing list is **NOT** gatewayed to a newsgroup. This mailing list MIGHT become a newsgroup at a later date, depending upon interest and volume. What the previous subscriber is talking about is the fact that some universities and colleges subscribe to some mailing lists as an institution, and then make the mailing list available as an option on an internal-only, specially handled menu item as part of that university or college's offerings to the student body. This helps cut down on the number of people receiving mail at a school as now the school, itself, receives the mail and repackages and redelivers it to all interested parties at that school. -- Diane Barlow Close close@lunch.asd.sgi.com I'm at lunch today. :-) ----------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 22 Nov 93 08:53:25 PST From: tjshadb@ecto.ca.sandia.gov (Troy J. Shadbolt) Subject: For the Fiber Artists out there For anyone who may be interested; Costume Con 12 has scored a double whammy by having Candace Kling, and internationally known artist who specializes in ribbonwork as Guest of Honor and Special Guest Mary LaVenture, a milliner who specializes in historical/theatrical costuming and creates the hats for Disneyland's audioanimatronics, parades and shows, as well as prototype hat designer for EuroDisney and Disneyland Japan. Both of these amazing artists will be teaching classes at Costume Con 12! What a deal for only $55/ 4 days (commercial off) :-) For information on CC12 contact: tjshadb@ecto.ca.sandia.gov eleanor@ucsfvm.ucsf.edu Costume Con 12 5214-F Diamond Heights, suite 320 San Francisco, Ca 94131 (include LSASE) Happy Costuming! ----------------------------------------------------------- From: LSCRIBNE@charlie.usd.edu Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1993 9:39:39 -0600 (CST) Subject: RE: 1930s clothing questions I believe that the Dover 1930's Sears Catelogue book is primarily a book of reprinted pages. So it would have as much info as a catelogue. Your impression about shoes is correct. YOu can use movies as a fairly accurate source if the movie was about a contemporary situation when it was made. Since the major number of designers for film in the 30's thru 60's were primarily fashion designers, you really get a good idea about "contemporary" fashions. The only time films are a problem is when you use them for historical reference since you will probably get a mainstream fashion designer's view of history. See Katherine Hepburn's costumes in Mary of Scottland. Notice the very un-Elizabethan shoulderpads. Linda Wigley Scribner ----------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Shoe soles 500-1200 Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1993 12:51:10 -0500 From: Elizabeth Lear Newman There's also extensive information on this in the book "Shoes and Patens" put out by (I think) the Museum of London. It details excavation finds in London, and most of the books in the excavation series cover items dating to c.1150-1450. As far as I know, these books are only available in the UK. ...eliz ----------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 22 Nov 93 13:50:08 -0500 From: nusbache@epas.utoronto.ca (Aryk Nusbacher) Subject: Re: H-Costume Digest, Volume 5, 11/19/93 Responding to: J.A.Bray@bnr.co.uk Date: Fri, 19 Nov 93 09:06:30 GMT Subject: Shoe soles 500-1200 ...the best thing I've found for repros. is heavy veg. tanned leather. it's sold as saddle skirting. I would suggest that vegetable-tanned sole leather wears better than saddle skirting. Sole leather is made by compressing unsplit hide to rather a heavier density than ordinary thick leather. It is harder to tunnel stitch, but it is quite durable; and I suspect that if you are using pegs to affix heels; it would hold the pegs better. On the other hand, while the tanning technique is authentic, the compression technique probably is not. Aryk Nusbacher ----------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1993 11:11:21 -0600 (CST) From: "Donna Holsten" Subject: cleaning costumes and my bio To answer a few questions: ejp@watson.ibm.com (Elizabeth J. Poole) writes: >Of course, I'm only guessing. What sort of trim? Gold embroidery on >a two-inch band of taffeta that could be whipstitched back on by hand after >every washing? Figurative embroidery, or more Henry8 continuous-line >interlaced braidwork? Are you working from a Hilliard portrait, or >a Holbein? :) I just love this period, and I need to hear more. It's gold embroidery on a 3" band of taffeta. I was hoping to find an easier way to reapply it than whipstitching, but I can't think of any short of velcro (and I won't let velcro into the same room with my costumes!). There's a lot of trim--down the front and on the hem of the skirt, on the bodice and sleeves. The dress is from Janet Arnold--I *think* it's the Eleanor of Toledo dress (I'm really bad at putting a name to a dress). The embroidery is also taken from Arnold, but not from the same dress. It's from a photo in the front of the book--a skirt frontpiece that apparently had the embroidery cut off of a cloak and resewn to make the frontpiece. (If you're really interested, I can check the page numbers when I go home.) SCM.MANKER@AppleLink.Apple.COM (Nichols, Kristen) writes: >A question for you...how are you going about making the Tudor sleeves. I want >to make some but am not sure how to go about it. What I usually do is take a fitted armhole and sleeve cap from another pattern (any store-bought pattern with a fairly flat sleeve will do). This particular sleeve is going to be fitted with puffs, so I'll just draw a thin triangle, with the sleeve cap being one point, and the cuff the other two points. (For a big, loose sleeve, like on my wedding dress, I just draw a really fat triangle.) You do have to curve the cuff edge, so that it's not pointy--I usually just put the sleeve on and have a friend draw a nice curve. Gather the cuff or not, depending on the shape you want. If you want rows of puffs (which is what I'm doing) you can do a couple of things. I'm going to actually make the upper, velveteen layer in strips, and tack them together, allowing the puffs to come up between. Then I'll make the lining in a solid piece and sew the strips onto it. You could also make the surface fabric in a solid piece and make "buttonholes" for the lining to come through. Did that answer your question? As for my bio: I'm 22, and I've been sewing for about 10 years. I got into the SCA about 4 years ago, and immediately took to costuming. I prefer Tudors and Elizabethans; my husband prefers houppelands. I've just started learning how to make hats and shoes, and I'm really amazed at how easy they are. I'm also interested in post-1600 costumes--I just don't have an opportunity to wear them, so I don't make them. I'm starting a seamstress business, specializing in wedding dresses. (I figure that if I can make a good-looking, complete Elizabethan dress, a modern wedding dress is a piece of cake.) I'm also interested in textiles, needlework, lacemaking, etc., etc. Donna Holsten (SCA Joanna Melissa Ronsivalle) [29,3262,EgwErzS00UfA00xCQj] ------------------------End of Volume 6-----------------------------------