From: Gretchen Miller Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1993 18:44:31 -0500 (EST) Subject: H-Costume Digest, Volume 20, 12/16/93 The Historic Costume List Digest, Volume 20, December 16, 1993 Send items for the list to h-costume@andrew.cmu.edu (or reply to this message). Send subscription/deletion requests and inquiries to h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu For archives of this digest, send mail to close@lunch.asd.sgi.com Thanks and Enjoy! --------------------------------------------------------------- Topics: More Kilt Hell Viking Era Irish and the CELTIC-L list Short review and info on "MADELEINE VIONNET", by Betty Kirke. Scottish costume and textiles ----------------------------------------- From: "HEATHER ASPINALL" Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1993 10:07:51 EST10 Subject: Re: Kilt-Hell Diane Barlow Close: >I thought the Threads article was pretty darned good, and it included >pleating diagrams and instructions, as well as a brief history of both >the kilt and the women's skirt version. The author of the article, Ann >Stewart, is a professional kiltmaker and she sells kiltmaking >accessories and tartans on the side. Anyone else have an opinion >of that article and how it compares to authentic kiltmaking? Hi all, I have a copy of the threads article and decided after reading it through several times that it was definitely worth a try. So I pulled out some blackwatch tartan that I'd had for years (waiting for me to get the courage to make it up) and decided to tackle it. Having followed her instructions pretty closely, with a few interpretations of my own (eg. machine sewing the pleats rather than hand sewing them), I managed to sew up a kilt from that article, no other pattern involved apart from my own measurements. I'll admit that the kilt is a little loose around the waist, but I figure I'll do better next time (when I get that sort of courage again!). I'm really happy with the kilt. It fits pretty well, has that nice 'swing' in the pleats that kilts have. The tartan pattern through the pleats is not a proper sett, as I didn't have enough material, but reproduces a nice pattern repeat fairly well. The article details work needed for both a man's kilt and a woman's kilt skirt (the skirt is what I attempted). I think if you're wanting to give it a try the article certainly has very detailed instructions, but I do think it's worth reading through it a few times to make sure the details are clear in your mind. My 2 cents worth. Cheers, Heather Aspinall ----------------------------------------- Date: 14 Dec 93 21:03 GMT From: SCM.MANKER@AppleLink.Apple.COM (Nichols, Kristen) Subject: Re: Viking era Irish? If I may offer a suggestion.... You may want to join the Celtic-L mailing list. The people on this list are true history buffs in all aspects and would really be able to help you. To subscribe send a Subscribe Celtic-L command to LISTSERV@IRLEARN.BITNET. To send messages to the Celtic-L mailing list send to CELTIC-L@IRLEARN.BITNET. Kristen ----------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 15 Dec 93 18:31:53 PST From: aterry@Teknowledge.COM (Allan Terry) Subject: Vionnet book The June issue of Threads contained a minireview of a book titled MADELEINE VIONNET, by Betty Kirke. I'm an avid book buyer, but hesitated about this book because it costs $250. Finally I wrote to the author, who seems to be the only U.S. distributor, and asked some questions. The book is lushly illustrated but contains technical information. According to Kirke, it "has technical chapters interspersed with biographical information where relevant to her work. I suppose the focus is on her active years between the wars." There are 38 line drawings of garment patterns. However, these are not scale patterns that can simply be enlarged and used. Rather, they illustrate techniques Vionnet created. The text is in Japanese but there is an English translation packet. MADELEINE VIONNET is available from: Betty Kirke 50 Park Terrace West, Apt. 1D New York, NY 10034 Checks (for $250 plus $10 shipping) should be made out to Betty Kirke. Fran Grimble --------------------------------------------- From: J.A.Bray@bnr.co.uk Date: Thu, 16 Dec 93 09:21:42 GMT Subject: Re: Scottish costume I am interested in getting a sources for Scottish costume including accessories, with good information on fourteenth century dress. A few years back there was an article which I think was published in the proceedings of the society of antiquaries of Scotland. It was certainly one of the scottish archaeology journals. Anyway it was definately by someone called Henshall, the name was either Audrey or Aubrey Henshall It dealt with various textiles in the scottish museums, including a viking age hood, some tams, a shirt, & an ancient fragment of tartan thought to be the earliest surviving (known as the falkirk tartan). I was only paying attention to the hood at the time, as it was a particularly interesting one to me having tablet woven borders with the warp from the tablet weaving extending to make a fringe for the hood (sometime I'd love to weave a replica, I'm thinking of trying it with some black welsh fleece I'm drop spinning, but I'm not sure if the colour is appropriate) Perhaps some of the info on later pieces might be of use to people researching early scottish costumes? If noone else can remember the exact reference for this paper I can look it up when I'm home, but I might not get it typed in 'till next year because my Holidays start tomorrow and its the office party today, so things are likely to be pretty hectic around here. Jennifer ------------------------End of Volume 20-----------------------------