From: Gretchen Miller Date: Tue, 21 Feb 1995 19:18:07 -0500 (EST) Subject: H-Costume Digest, Volume 232, 2/21/95 The Historic Costume List Digest, Volume 232, February 21, 1995 Send items for the list to h-costume@andrew.cmu.edu (or reply to this message). Send subscription/deletion requests and inquiries to h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Enjoy! --------------------------------------------------------------- Topics: Finding paper for patterns Vintage dance in New England 18th C dance performance, Milwaukee Early Siberian clothing ISO: Vintage dance in the Midwest USA Question and answers: Great American pattern emporium Question and answer: Name of painter of Lucrezia Borgia portrait Cloak construction 16th and 15thC shirts Historic costume folk in Lawrence, Kansas Wearing the great kilt Histroric dance in the UK Handling menstruation in period (no pun intended) ----------------------- From: "Lassman, Linda" Subject: Paper for Patterns Date: Thu, 16 Feb 95 08:50:00 PST While this isn't exactly on topic, because of comments made in various posts about dissatisfaction with finding paper to use to make patterns with, I thought I'd pass this on. Go to a medical supplies store and buy rolls of the paper they put on examining tables in doctors' offices. It's easy to work with, much sturdier than tissue paper, wide enough for most patterns (the rolls we get here come in both 15" and 18" widths), and much cheaper that what I've seen sold in fabric stores for pattern paper. I don't remember how much is on a roll, but I took 2 semesters of tailoring (which entailed a LOT of pattern work!) and hardly made a dent on the roll I bought. - Linda Lassman Winnipeg, Manitoba ----------------------- From: Peter Lee To: h-costume+@andrew.cmu.edu Subject: Vintage Dancing in New England Date: Thu, 16 Feb 1995 11:47:42 -0500 Here is some info on Vintage Dancing on the East Coast! Vintage Dances in the New England Area March 5 - Ragtime Tea Dance at the Masonic Hall in Porter Square with BLT -- Peter Barnes, Mary Lea, and Bill Tomczak. Robert Morris & Kathy Terzi of Philadelphia will teach Hesitation Waltz variations & American Sequence Dances. Sequence dances are especially gratifying for newcomers to vintage dance, as they do not require learning to lead; like contra dances and Zweifachers, the same pattern is repeated over and over again. They're also a lot of fun! Contact: augment@world.std.com for more info. March 10,24; April 7, 21; May 5,19; Ragtime Dancing at Bookfriends Cafe, 16 West 18th St., NY, NY 8 PM. Call Marc Casslar at (203)286-9191 for more information. March 11 -Mad Hatters Ball in Old Wethersfield, CT. There will be an afternoon workshop before the ball, taught by Marc Casslar. Music by the New River Dance Orchestra. Period Formal attire suggested but not required. Call Marc Casslar at (203) 286-9191 for more information. April 8 - FAC Elegant Evening. Call the Folk Arts Center, 491-6083/4, for further information. April 9 - Ragtime Tea Dance in Porter Square, with Spare Parts (Liz Stell & Bill Matthiessen). A variety of dances of the Ragtime era will be played, including Waltz, One-Step, and Ragtime Tango; Ragtime Foxtrot variations will be taught by Robbie Tovey with Charles Worsley. Contact: augment@world.std.com for more info. June 2 - Spring Ball at Bookfriends Cafe, 16 West 18th St., NY, NY 8 PM. Call Marc Casslar at (203)286-9191 for more information. Music by Spare Parts. June 3 - Dance to benefit the Old Manse, Concord, MA. Dancing taught by Patri Pugliese and music by Spare Parts. Call Patri & Barbara Pugleise for more information (617)396-2870. August 7- 13 Newport Vintage Dance Week -- A week among the fabulous mansions of Newport, including activities such as Ragtime & Victorian Balls & Tea Dances, Formal Teas, Croquet, Townball, and both beginning and advanced lessons in Ragtime & Victorian social dance. Patri Pugliese and Richard Powers will be among the instructors. Call Hannah Roberts Artuso (617) 662-8344 for further information or to make reservations. The contact for all Porter Square Tea Dances is Michael Bergman (617) 964-7684,or augment@world.std.com. The location is the Masonic Hall, 1950 Mass Ave., Porter Square, Cambridge, MA, and the cost is $8.--, including the beginning workshop. The Tea Dances are intended as an informal opportunity to practice and learn vintage dances without the pressures attendant on a formal Ball.Costume is optional; we do draw the line at shorts and T-shirts. Typical schedule includes beginner instruction from 2:00 to 3:00; dancing from 3:00 to 5:30, with a break at 4:00, during which there is additional, somewhat more advanced instruction, and at which time, Delightful refreshments will be served. ----------------------- From: radueche@ct.med.ge.com (Renee Raduechel) Date: Thu, 16 Feb 95 11:22:29 CST Subject: 18th century dance: Milwaukee area Just in case anyone's within shouting distance of this: February 25th from 7:30 to 9:00 p.m. there's going to be a performance of 18th century dance at the Barnes & Noble bookstore on 76th Street in Greenfield, WI. Renee Raduechel radueche@ct.med.ge.com ----------------------- From: DENISE@HARV-EHS.mhs.harvard.edu Date: Thu, 16 Feb 1995 12:38:56 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Pattern Paper I have always used 6 lb. sketch bond, which comes on rolls of (I think) 100' and is availble in most art supply stores. I comes in white or gold, is tissue-paper thin but much stronger (it does not tear easily), transluscent (easy to lay over old/commercial patterns for tracing and then altering), works well when pinned to fabric, and comes in widths between 12" and 48". I keep a roll of 12" and 36" on hand -- the small size is great for facings, collars, etc., and the 36" is usually big enough for anything else. If I need wider paper, I just tape strips together. It folds compactly for storage (I use 9x12 manilla envelopes for my patterns), and holds up well (my first patterns done on this paper are 12 years old, and have not noticeably degraded). It takes pencil, colored pencil, felt tip, and ballpoint well, and pencil eraces well (after all, it's made for pencil sketching). And it's cheap -- a roll of 36" is about $10 at a discount art supply store. Just my $.02 worth... Denise Zaccagnino Lady Deonora Ridenow in the SCA ----------------------- Date: Thu, 16 Feb 1995 10:29:58 -0800 From: Alison Kondo Subject: Siberian Clothing A few years back, I read a book on earlier Siberian finds by Sergei (?) Rudenko, although I can't recall the exact title off hand. It had sections on the clothing & textile finds (felted wool saddles, etc) if anyone is interested in more info. on Siberian clothing. Alison ----------------------- Date: Thu, 16 Feb 1995 13:29:12 -0500 From: NANCY ECKERMAN SPECIAL COLLECTIONS IUSM Subject: Vintage dancing in the Midwest I'm a Civil War reenactor and would like to find out if there is vintage dancing in the midwest, i.e., Indiana, Western Ohio, Northern Kentucky. I'm trying a new line of Civil War period patterns soon from the Great American Pattern Emporium will let people know what I experience. I've been sewing period clothing for about 4 years now. I'm really surprised that its so easy to make very nice period bonnets, etc. Nancy Eckerman aka Nurse Eckerman aka The Farm Woman Eckerman ----------------------- From: close@lunch.engr.sgi.com (Diane Barlow Close) Subject: Re: Pattern Paper Date: Thu, 16 Feb 1995 16:34:34 -0800 (PST) Denise wrote: > I have always used 6 lb. sketch bond, which comes on rolls of (I think) > 100' and is availble in most art supply stores. I comes in white or > [snip ...] I'd like to second this recommendation! I use this stuff too and love it! It's readily available, relatively cheap, easy to see through but strong enough to hold up to some abuse and it takes permanent markers without bleeding or smudging. I have the 24" and 36" rolls. At my local art store they cost ~$8-10 for a 50 yard roll. -- Diane Close close@lunch.engr.sgi.com I'm at lunch today. :-) ----------------------- Date: Thu, 16 Feb 1995 19:43:19 -0400 (EST) From: dbrowne Subject: help identify please Can anyone please help me identify the artist who painted a portrait of Lucrezia Borgia. It hangs in the National Gallery in London and a reproduction of it apears in a book "Treasures of the World; The Renaissance Princes" by Olivier Bernier, Stonehenge Press: Chicago 1983 (ISBN 0-86706-083-2) p. 106. It shows a women sitting almost straight forward, she has a flower wreath around her head and is wearing a black high-waisted dress with split sleeves (very low-cut scoop neckline). The most interesting part is the chemise that she is wearing: it is tightly gathered on multiple cords (black with gold aglits) the cords seem to be issuing out of red tulip shaped appliqued motifs, it has very full sleeves with a line of black and red embroidery down each one. I am desperate, I need the artist for a Regional A & S project set to go up March 4th, I have tried all my locally available avenues. Help me Obi-Wan, you're my only hope?! --Kathy B. --Katrinn ----------------------- Date: Thu, 16 Feb 1995 17:39:44 -0800 (PST) From: "Sarah E. Goodman" Subject: Re: cloaks & capes I'm the one with the (fake) fur lined cape. I made it years ago, so I don't remember, but I THINK I let the whole thing hang for a number of days before I hemmed it. The hem is "inside out"; the fur rolls around the edge and is top stitched on the outside of the cloak. (I seem to remember that it took me about two tv movies and serveral large pins to pull the fur out of the stiching.) It's a 3/4 circle with fairly wide (about 8") overlap in front and tailered shoulders--I think I tacked the shoulder darts of the lining and the outside together. The furry stuff was pretty solid; built on a knit but stabalized somhow. The outside is a medium weight tabby weave and I'm rather suprised IT didn't sag. At some point it got caught in a motercycle chain (Isadora Duncan time!) and both inside and outside are patched, which may stabalize things even more. It's however long it could be if I cut the shape out of the (admittedly wide) fabric, so there are no seams at all. (This turned out to be useful, as it is mid-calf and the hem doesn't get dirty.) Totally useless hint of the week--If you add a long point hood so that when you jam you feet into the hood the hem is above your head, you can make your cape double as a sleeping robe. ********************************************************** I am the mother of all things, and all things must wear a sweater! ********************************************************** Sarah E. Goodman goodston@well.sf.ca.us Senior Designer and Chief Cat Herder goodston@netcom.com Wee Cottage Daly City, California, USA ********************************************************** ----------------------- Date: Thu, 16 Feb 1995 17:58:50 -0800 (PST) From: "Sarah E. Goodman" Subject: Re: 15th Century Shirts > > Janet Arnold also published an article in Costume describing several > > shirts/chemises dated approximately 1595 - 1610. > > > > One of the shirts is constructed like this: This is remarkably similar to the 1800ish "poet's shirt" pattern that Folkwear puts out (only the collar and cuffs have changed to protect the innocent) which is a pretty good indication of how slowly things uses to change! "Cut My Cote" is another good source. (Author forgotten. Book someplace else. Royal Ontario Museum.) ********************************************************* I am the mother of all things, and all things must wear a sweater! ********************************************************* Sarah E. Goodman goodston@well.sf.ca.us Senior Designer and Chief Cat Herder goodston@netcom.com Wee Cottage Daly City, California, USA ********************************************************* ----------------------- Date: Thu, 16 Feb 95 19:02:35 PST From: aterry@Teknowledge.COM (Allan Terry) Subject: New patterns Nancy Eckerman mentioned that she is trying out a new line of Civil War period patterns from the Great American Pattern Emporium. I'd very much like to have a pointer to the pattern line (I'm willing to be a guinea pig) and the address of the Great American Pattern Emporium, which I've never heard of. I'm posting a message to the whole list since I think this information would be of interest to others. Thanks, Fran Grimble P. S. The _Cut My Cote_ book is by Dorothy Burnham and published by the Royal Ontario Museum. It's a great book on shirt and chemise cuts, very reasonably priced, and perennially in print. Offhand, the catalog I remember seeing it in most recently was Unicorn Books & Crafts. ----------------------- Date: Thu, 16 Feb 1995 21:24:21 -0500 (CST) From: Cindy Johnson Subject: Re: help identify please THIS portrait is my favorite of Lucrezia. The painter is Bartolomeo Veneto. The book I have a plate of it in is "The Borgias" by Marion Johnson, published by Holt, Rinehart and Winston, New York, 1981, page 197. Good luck with your exhibit, Cindy Johnson On Thu, 16 Feb 1995, dbrowne wrote: > Can anyone please help me identify the artist who painted a > portrait of Lucrezia Borgia. It hangs in the National Gallery in London > and a reproduction of it apears in a book "Treasures of the World; The > Renaissance Princes" by Olivier Bernier, Stonehenge Press: Chicago 1983 > (ISBN 0-86706-083-2) p. 106. > It shows a women sitting almost straight forward, she has a > flower wreath around her head and is wearing a black high-waisted dress > with split sleeves (very low-cut scoop neckline). The most interesting > part is the chemise that she is wearing: it is tightly gathered on > multiple cords (black with gold aglits) the cords seem to be issuing out > of red tulip shaped appliqued motifs, it has very full sleeves with a > line of black and red embroidery down each one. > I am desperate, I need the artist for a Regional A & S project set > to go up March 4th, I have tried all my locally available avenues. Help me > Obi-Wan, you're my only hope?! > --Kathy B. > --Katrinn ----------------------- Date: Fri, 17 Feb 1995 0:10:37 EST From: elizabeth a fannin Subject: lawrence, ks ok, this does not raise any burning questions about historic costume, ;-) but: seems to me i recall some historic costume folks in the lawrence, ks. area, (and possibly mention of some good browsing places for more "recently historic" costume. ;-) and i am going to be there, as of tomorrow afternoon! if anyone wants to catch up to me, the best place to find me will be saturday evening at a restaurant called "the full moon," where i will be performing middle eastern dance! i don't know if i'll have any browsing time, but if i do it will be post-performance and maybe on sunday...i'm out there to teach a workshop on said dance. meetings and nattering welcomed!! --shakira, aka liz fannin ps. please don't clutter the bandwidth with replies. in fact, at this point (unless you're on the net at midnight e.s.t.), i won't even get email....but ya know where i'll be! thanks!! ----------------------- Date: Fri, 17 Feb 1995 09:03:26 -0500 From: NANCY ECKERMAN SPECIAL COLLECTIONS IUSM Subject: Great American Pattern Emporium-Civil War Era Civilian and Military Pointer for the Great American Pattern Emporium All patterns made from originals-Civil War Era Civilian and Military Patterns The women's patterns seem to be from collections in Cincinnati and Kentucky-- good for Midwestern reenactors. Catalog is $1.00 P.O. Box 4211 Winchester, Ky 40392-4211 Phone: 606-744-0975 I haven' t had time to even study these patterns, I have 3 -corset, ball gown, and Andulusian(Sp) style dress. Each came with instructions for period sewing techniques--They suggest fabrics and colors. Let them know where you heard about them. Nancy Eckerman ----------------------------- From: "Mary Wood" Date: Fri, 17 Feb 1995 08:39:13 CST Subject: Re: kilts > From: CGodfrey10@aol.com > Date sent: Wed, 15 Feb 1995 04:00:07 -0500 > To: h-costume@andrew.cmu.edu > Subject: kilts > Hi. Can anyone provide me with detailed, and illustrated, step-by-step > instructions for the wearing of a great kilt (pheligh mor) ? > > I also need to know how much fabric(width of and length) necessary to make > one? > > Thanks, > > Derek > Aonghus (SCA) In Christian Heskith's book, TARTANS, there is a several-panelled illustration on the process of putting on a great kilt. I think it's about six steps altogether. I found it very easy to follow. If you can't find this book, you can e-mail me privately, and I'll arrange to send you a photocopy by snail-mail. Have fun! Mary Mary Wood MPW@gml.lib.uwm.edu ----------------------------- From: Mrs C S Yeldham Date: 17 Feb 95 14:42:00 GMT Subject: UK Historic Dance Just to remind folks that there is historic dance in the UK as well! I can recommend the following: Kentwell 1546 Dance Weekend 18 and 19 March 1995 also appropriate for late 15th century Held at Victoria Memoria Hall at Ash, nr Aldershot in Surrey. contact Robert Huggett, 5 Briants Avenue, Caversham, Reading Berks GR4 0AZX, tel 0734 474891. If anyone out there does want the UK listing of Historical Dance classes and workshops etc, let me know and I will broadcast the details (they are at home at the moment). Caroline ----------------------------- From: Jennifer Bray Date: Fri, 17 Feb 95 15:51:14 GMT Subject: Re: Menstruation I have no refernce for this, but I have been told that the early medieval church in britain passed rules against its nuns using sheeps wool as tampons. Apparemtly some Bishop thought they might be enjoying themselves too much with the wool! Jennifer ----------------------------- Date: Fri, 17 Feb 1995 09:42:19 -0600 (CST) From: Helen Mayo Subject: Re: 15th Century Shirts On Thu, 16 Feb 1995, Sarah E. Goodman wrote: > "Cut My Cote" is another good source. (Author forgotten. Book someplace > else. Royal Ontario Museum.) For what it's worth, this is a 1973 book by Dorothy Burnham, 34 pages long. For those interested in Interlibrary loan, the OCLC number is 1072584, and there's tons of U.S. libraries listed as owning it. ----------------------------- From: VICKI@lib.uttyl.edu Date: Fri, 17 Feb 1995 10:12:43 -0600 (CST) Subject: Great American Pattern Emporium I found out about the Great American Pattern Emporium from an advertisement in _Citizen's Companion_, a magazine for civilian Civil War reenactors/living historians. I have three of the patterns, but so far have only made the chemise. The body worked out pretty well, with minor adjustments, but the yoke part was much, much too big and I had to go back and take inches out so that it wouldn't drop from my shoulders right on down to the floor. The instructions were not at good as Past Patterns, but better than many other Civil War era patterns on the market. The other two that I have are for a paletot and for a day dress with undersleeves and chemisette. Vicki Betts University of Texas at Tyler vicki@lib.uttyl.edu ----------------------- End of Volume 232-----------------------