From: Gretchen Miller Date: Wed, 22 Feb 1995 18:15:56 -0500 (EST) Subject: H-Costume Digest, Volume 233, 2/22/95 The Historic Costume List Digest, Volume 233, February 22, 1995 Send items for the list to h-costume@andrew.cmu.edu (or reply to this message). Send subscription/deletion requests and inquiries to h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Enjoy! --------------------------------------------------------------- Topics: ISO: Ref for Janet Arnold's Italian Ren book ISO: Info on Landknecht clothing Sources of pattern paper (some free) Menstruation ISO: Info on 12th C head coverings for women ISO: Info on Folly Bells Question and answer: The fantasy costume list Shaving history ISO:Info on sources ISO: Info on cothardies for big-busted women Shirts ----------------------- From: "Joe Cook" Subject: Janet Arnold & Italy Date: Fri, 17 Feb 1995 8:10:40 Does anyone have an idea of where I can get a hold of Janet Arnold's book on Italian Ren costuming? I have seen many references to it, but never seen the book. ----------------------- From: Willie Peloquin Subject: Landskneckt clothing Date: Fri, 17 Feb 1995 12:00:20 -0500 (EST) Hello All, I am looking for information on building the clothing worn by the Landskneckt, German mercenaries from the 1500's. I know they wore puff and slash, usually looted from their conquests. Can anyone give me advice or patterns on this task? I am more interested in the clothing worn by the officers or Dopplesoldiers. Thank you in advance. Willie Peloquin --------------------------------------------------------- Willie Peloquin PP-ASEL | I'm not a kid anymore, but this ain't no wpeloqui@medar.com | midlife crisis, because whiskey and women | have always been my vices! Bocephus --------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------- Date: Fri, 17 Feb 1995 12:08:25 -0600 (CST) From: NAME Subject: Pattern paper - FREE I have a friend who works for a printing company, (envelopes, although I understand this is business-wide sort of thing) who brings me the "waste ends" of rolls of paper. (Different colors and weights, depending on what they are running.) It seems that it is more cost effective to throw away a quantity of paper than to stop in the middle of a "run" to re-thread the machine. Check with printers in your area - maybe someone will give these rolls to you. My friend in another state checked with the company which prints the ad pages for the Sunday paper and gets huge rolls of newsprint from them at no cost. ----------------------- From: Chethur@aol.com Date: Fri, 17 Feb 1995 03:15:56 -0500 Subject: Menstruation Okay we have just had lines of discussion on pregnancy and on shaving. I have been intending to ask this question, and the time seems appropriate now. Does anyone have information on the handling of menstruation in earlier time periods, or in general.(Also written personal accounts would also be welcome. ie. from old letters, diaries etc.) I am posting this question for someone else who is working on menstrual product advertisements, how they have been marketed, and the messages conveyed about the products and about the body. Has anyone come across commercial products prior to the early 20th century? Going along with that she would love copies of old booklets etc. She has the ads but the old pamphlets don't pop up in libraries. Cheryl Thurber chethur@aol.com ----------------------- From: SGLIVELY@aol.com Date: Fri, 17 Feb 1995 13:10:07 -0500 Subject: Early 12th century head covering Does anyone have any specific facts about what women wore on their head during the early 12th century? Thanks, Suzanne Lively ----------------------- Date: Fri, 17 Feb 1995 14:50:19 -0600 (CST) From: Cynthia Lucille Rosser Subject: Re: Menstruation On Fri, 17 Feb 1995 Chethur@aol.com wrote: > Okay we have just had lines of discussion on pregnancy and on shaving. I have > been intending to ask this question, and the time seems appropriate now. > > Does anyone have information on the handling of menstruation in earlier time > periods, or in general.(Also written personal accounts would also be welcome. > ie. from old letters, diaries etc.) I am posting this question for someone > else who is working on menstrual product advertisements, how they have been > marketed, and the messages conveyed about the products and about the body. > Has anyone come across commercial products prior to the early 20th century? > Going along with that she would love copies of old booklets etc. She has > the ads but the old pamphlets don't pop up in libraries. > > Cheryl Thurber > chethur@aol.com > My grandmother told me about making "granny rags" out of old sheets and cotton batting in the early 20th Century to use during her period, these were washed out & used repeatedly until they were too worn. ----------------------- Date: Fri, 17 Feb 1995 14:15:22 -0800 From: Alison Kondo Subject: Menstration I remember attending a presentation on menstral products before 1920 at last years International Textiles & Apparel Association conference. Maybe the publications from that would help with information, since they give an abrstract & the authors contact address. I don't know how to order them, but our library has them. Alison PS-The presentation made me very glad I live in the present time! ----------------------- From: KTRuby@aol.com Date: Fri, 17 Feb 1995 14:07:06 -0500 Subject: Folly Bells Thanks to everyone who responded regarding 15th Century German gowns (pleated strip). This list is wonderful. Does anyone have specific information on folly bells? I have purchased same gold colored round bells made in India (they are about as big around as my index finger and have a little design etched into them. They are not aluminum, they are cast, not stamped. I assume folly bells were shaped, not cast, but this is the best I could find. Everything else I've found looks like little tin cow bells or jingle bells. Does anyone have any sources for folly bells that are more authentic? I want to put them at the neckline of my mid-15th century gown. I've mostly seen them on sashes worn over the shoulder. Is it proper to put them on a neckline? ----------------------- Date: Fri, 17 Feb 1995 14:11:04 -0500 (EST) From: Allison Thurman Subject: pattern paper i usually use tissue paper that is used for wrapping - i find newsprint too stiff (espeically for delicate/sheer fabrics) and tissue paper is only about $.25 at card shops and other places that sell wrapping paper. allison ----------------------- Date: Fri, 17 Feb 95 18:59 CST From: tallison@mcs.com (Tim Allison) Subject: f-costume Gretchen, do you know how I can get the fantasy costume list? I understand it's much less active, but it would be nice to have it. Thanks Carol Mitchell ----------------------- From: Chethur@aol.com Date: Fri, 17 Feb 1995 15:33:22 -0500 Subject: Re: Shaving A few years ago I asked my great-aunt about when women started to shave their legs. She was born in 1903. She remembers it from the mid-teens (ie. about 1913-15 it was starting as she was about to become a teenager) and that it became more common in the 1920s, and many women from older generations did not shave their legs. The clothing also changed in general there was more revealing clothing, or at least it was clinging. That corresponds with the information about hair removers that has been posted, and has been noted when women started wearing shorter skirts. Obviously you wouldn't need to shave them if they were unexposed and unnoticed. [and sometimes when we know we will be wearing long pants, and we don't have time, we don't bother.] I actually had some students a couple of years ago who asked me that question (with a certain blushing bashfulness on their part). They had apparently been discussing it in a late night session and decided that I was the only one they knew who might know. They were pleased that I could answer their question, demonstrating my knowledge of really trivial obscure stuff. Cheryl Thurber Now I need to post my own question. ----------------------- Date: Fri, 17 Feb 1995 10:54:19 -0500 From: Joe Marfice Subject: Re: Pattern Paper OK, here's my tip: Don't buy paper. Go to a wedding and "help out" by rolling up the bridal path paper at the end of the ceremony. It's a felted, long-fibered paper that has a lengthwise grain, doesn't stretch, and is tough enough to baste- stitch on a machine. Unless I want the stretch of a toile, I always use this stuff. And it's FREE! Comes in lovely long rolls, about 36" wide. Did I mention it's free? Makes nice, permanent patterns. :{) | Broom, at The Lady Perrine | aka Joe Marfice | Ministerium honor est. \|/ which means "Don't check under the bed--you don't want to know." /|\ 513-222-2330 233 Perrine Street //|\\ af289@dayton.wright.edu Dayton (my fayre citee), OH 45410 ----------------------- From: close@lunch.engr.sgi.com (Diane Barlow Close) Subject: Re: f-costume Date: Fri, 17 Feb 1995 17:16:48 -0800 (PST) > Gretchen, do you know how I can get the fantasy costume list? I understand > it's much less active, but it would be nice to have it. Since I run that list, I can better answer your question. Here's the info for anyone else who'd like to check it out too: The fantasy costume mailing list concentrates on the design, motivation and execution of fantasy clothing and costume, from all eras: past, present and future. The imagination is your only limitation! Discussions include special event costumes ("cons" and parades), science fiction costumes, mythological and other non-factual historic-type costumes, serious Halloween and Mardi Gras costumes, theatrical costumes, creative and motivational forces, using and finding patterns, materials, books, and other sources for supplies. Publications, galleries, shows and museums that offer displays of fantasy costume, or learning opportunities available through art schools and workshops, are also of interest to this list. Technical discussions cover silkscreening methods, dyeing, beading, marbling, machine embroidery, incorporating mixed media, the use of unusual materials such as aluminum cans, chain links or wire cloth, etc. and the use of various fabrics, such as lycra, sheers, netting and metallics, etc., to achieve certain effects. Mask making, headgear and makeup issues are also often discussed. Collective group projects and exchanges of experimental materials are welcome. This list has both a direct mail and a digest version. Both carry identical information and conversations, but the procedure to sign up for one or the other is a little different. To sign up, send the word: subscribe as the body of the message to f-costume-request@lunch.engr.sgi.com for the direct mail version, or to f-costume-digest-request@lunch.engr.sgi.com for the digest version. The list is run via Majordomo list handling software. -- Diane Close close@lunch.engr.sgi.com I'm at lunch today. :-) ----------------------- From: BEARLEE1@aol.com Date: Fri, 17 Feb 1995 15:52:10 -0500 Subject: Info please on a couple of books Any suggestions or information will be greatfully appreciated 1.)"Uniforms of the American, British, French & German Armies, 17775-83- 2.) "American Soldier of the Revolution" by Alan Kemp Any more info out there? Carole (Bearlee1@aol.com) ----------------------- Subject: Coathardies for busty ladies Date: Fri, 17 Feb 95 22:49:07 -0800 From: Martha Underwood I have some beautiful silk that would make a wonderful coathardie (sp?) for myself. The only trouble is that I am rather busty (36DDD, yes, that's 3 D's) and I know that I _must_ have support or my back hurts. Anyone know how I can go about making sure I have support? I know a corset is not truely period to wear under such a garment. Would a lady with my, ahem, endowments have done anything way back then? Breast bindings or something? Where can I find references? Thanks all in advance, I'm farily new to costuming and have a lot more to learn. -- Martha "Dream Dancer" Underwood ddancer@netcom.com Five(!) cats and a Needlework shop........Talk about an interesting life! Owner of: Natural Stitches: Knitting, Crochet, Cross-Stitch and more A Pittsburgh Needlework Shop ----------------------- From: Evewallace@aol.com Date: Fri, 17 Feb 1995 23:54:16 -0500 Subject: still shaving re the when of shaving---i believe it was in the twenties wen the ideal of the slick saved leg gained universal admiration. think about the litho style of illustration in the ads of the time... it's also when stockings with all their gleam became important. it's not just thhe shaved leg either, the exposed neckline -and- armhole, the first time i think that these two are combined in outerwear, means the armpit becomes an area women had to deal with. i have a dress from the late twenties when hemlines were dropping quickly, but the top is as skimpy as anything 50 years later. The ideal of the clean profile, where what is communicated is just contour, doesn't allow for fuzz. thus the clean short haircut too. ----------------------- Date: Fri, 17 Feb 1995 21:31:42 -0800 (PST) From: Dianne Karp Subject: Re: Menstruation I'd certainly be interested in this info! Dianne ----------------------- From: NeenH@aol.com Date: Sat, 18 Feb 1995 02:20:52 -0500 Subject: shirts Those instructions for the 15th c shirt were identical to the 18th c shirts we make. The are also similar to current nightshirts from some all natural companies. Once a pattern works, we keep using it! NeenH ----------------------- From: NeenH@aol.com Date: Sat, 18 Feb 1995 02:21:00 -0500 Subject: Re: Pattern Paper I like to use plastic coated freezer wrap that I get at the discount wholesaler's (B.J.'s). I's wide, cheap, I use it for ironing onto fabric for easier applique'ing, and I don't need to make a special trip to get it. But I'm planning on getting a 36" wide roll of paper when I can. NeenH ----------------------- Date: Fri, 17 Feb 95 20:30:08 PST From: Kat@grendal.rain.com (June Russell) Subject: Re: Menstruation On Fri, 17 Feb 1995 Chethur@aol.com wrote: > Okay we have just had lines of discussion on pregnancy and on shaving. I have > been intending to ask this question, and the time seems appropriate now. > > Does anyone have information on the handling of menstruation in earlier time > periods, or in general.(Also written personal accounts would also be welcome. > ie. from old letters, diaries etc.) I am posting this question for someone > else who is working on menstrual product advertisements, how they have been > marketed, and the messages conveyed about the products and about the body. > Has anyone come across commercial products prior to the early 20th century? > Going along with that she would love copies of old booklets etc. She has > the ads but the old pamphlets don't pop up in libraries. > > Cheryl Thurber > chethur@aol.com In the Museum of London book put out by HMSO called _Clothing and Textiles: c1150-c1450_ they said that some of the rags they had found in the middens were thought to be menstrual clouts. My mother talked about using old rags when she was a girl, before Kotex made a "sanitary napkin". June Russell pacifier.rain.com!grendal!kat kat@grendal.rain.com Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat! ----------------------- End of Volume 233 -----------------------