From: Gretchen Miller Date: Fri, 3 Mar 1995 18:45:04 -0500 (EST) Subject: H-Costume Digest, Volume 246, 3/3/95 The Historic Costume List Digest, Volume 246, March 3, 1995 Send items for the list to h-costume@andrew.cmu.edu (or reply to this message). Send subscription/deletion requests and inquiries to h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Enjoy! --------------------------------------------------------------- Topics: Question and answer: Sources for linen ISO: Info on joining various Costume Societies Question and answers: Amazon Vinegar and Pickling Works Drygoods Costume journals/periodicals/Theatre sources Felting/Fulling wool Houpellande sleeve suggestions Jannisarie information ISO: Info on Scottish highlands women's dress Question and answer: Biblical costume references New Folkwear patterns What's your favorite Folkwear pattern? Where is Costume Con this year? ----------------------- From: laurence (four) hewes Subject: Linen: Tx & mail-order sources Date: Tue, 28 Feb 95 9:24:23 CST All, Can you recommend sources of linen, either mail-order houses or places in Dallas or Houston? Thanks for your time, - Four Hewes, Fast Static RAM Division, Design Group Motorola/Semiconductor Products Sector RZGW10@email.sps.mot.com ----------------------- From: "Pamela C. Rowe" Subject: Re: Costuming periodicals/magazines Date: Tue, 28 Feb 1995 09:58:33 -0600 (CST) Shelley, I'm interested in joining either or both of these organizations. Please post any information available, as I can't be the only one interested. I'm also an oddball who just likes to *make* historical costume :) (as well as just study it). Pam Rowe prowe@us1.msrcnavo.navy.mil Forwarded message: > From: Gordon Monson > Date: Mon, 27 Feb 1995 12:35:17 -0800 > To: h-costume@andrew.cmu.edu > Subject: Costuming periodicals/magazines > > jkubenka@sun.cis.smu.edu asked for info on periodicals more > oriented to costuming. Two that I value a lot are: > > Costume (the annual publication of The Costume Society > [British]) and > Dress (the annual publication of The Costume Society of > America). > > Both of these are membership publications, though you can order > back issues as available without being a member. The articles > are mostly scholarly and historical, not "how-to." Janet > Arnold often publishes in *Costume.* If you join either > organization, you also get newsletters (usually quarterly) and > announcements of meetings, etc. I have been a member of both > for many years, and get a lot of good info from the > publications. ----------------------- From: ehp648c@crusher.dukepower.com Subject: Amazon Pickling ... address Date: Tue, 28 Feb 1995 11:00:02 -0500 (EST) Could somebody E-mail me privately the address/phone number for Amazon Pickling & Vinegar Works? I've got to order some objects y'all have quoted from. Thanks. Betsy Perry betsyp@vnet.net ----------------------- Date: Tue, 28 Feb 95 08:06:05 PST From: aterry@Teknowledge.COM (Allan Terry) Subject: Publications I think we've had the discussion of useful publications for costumers before. . . Anyway, this round I don't think anyone has mentioned the _Cutters' Research Journal_. This is a very practical quarterly with articles by both theatrical costumers and costume historians. It includes historic patterns in every issue, some reprints of originals and some worked out by costumers. Also book reviews and sometimes in-depth pattern reviews from hands-on experience. To subscribe send a check for $16 to: _Cutters' Research Journal_ USITT 10 W 19th St., Suite 5A New York, NY 10011 USITT members pay slightly less than $16, but if you're a member you probably know this. A while back there was a discussion about where to get costuming jobs, and I posted a request for directories of US theaters. A reader who is a theatrical agent recently wrote me a fan letter in which he gave me the address of the publisher of what he says are the standard and most complete theater directories. This is: Theatre Directories PO Box 519 Dorset, Vermont 05251 (802) 867-2223 They have three directories, _Regional Theatre Directory_ (geographically organized listings), _Summer Theatre Directory_, and _Directory of Theatre Training Programs_ (university theater departments). They run about $16 apiece and have about 400 nonoverlapping entries apiece. I bought all three. They are professionally published and seem to be updated every year or two. They are oriented toward job hunters. In case I need to say it, I'm not affiliated with either of these businesses. If I were affiliated with every business I mention on the net I'd be rich. Or at least very busy. Fran Grimble ----------------------- Date: Tue, 28 Feb 1995 12:15:06 -0500 (EST) From: Sarah Beldin Subject: Re: Amazon Pickling ... address Amazon Vinegar & Pickling Works Drygoods 2218 East 11TH Street Davenport, IA 52803 319/322-6800 General catalog $3.00 Shoe catalog $5.00 Pattern catalog $7.00 Just spoke with the owner - above are current prices as of this morning! Very nice people to talk with. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Sarah J. Beldin Lady Adelicia d'Argent @--,-- Grand Company of the Peacock Moline Public Library Middle Kingdom SCA 3130 41ST Street Moline, IL 61265-7827 The love of learning, TEL: 309/797-4141 The sequestered nooks, FAX: 309/797-0480 And the sweet serenity of books. sbeldin@libby.rbls.lib.il.us -Longfellow ----------------------- Date: Tue, 28 Feb 1995 12:25:45 -0800 (PST) From: samhainsghost Subject: Re: Amazon Pickling ... address Actually do they have a catalog? On Tue, 28 Feb 1995 ehp648c@crusher.dukepower.com wrote: > Could somebody E-mail me privately the address/phone number for Amazon > Pickling & Vinegar Works? I've got to order some objects y'all have > quoted from. > > Thanks. > > Betsy Perry > betsyp@vnet.net > --------------------------------------------------------- If Voltaire could look down on the world today, I believe he would say, " Don't you people have lives!?" Samhain@mail.pacificrim.net --------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------- Date: Tue, 28 Feb 1995 15:41:43 -0500 (EST) From: Victoria Gilliam Subject: Re: wool treatment On Mon, 27 Feb 1995, Donna Holsten wrote: > So you do the hot/cold/hot *before* you make anything from the fabric, > and then handwash in *cold* after the garment is made, so that there is no > further shrinking or felting. (And you have to buy more wool than you > really need, if you're going to pre-shrink it.) I recently wove a lovely > wool twill fabric, and finished it by washing on hot, rinsing on cold, and > drying on hot. The fabric was 36" wide on the loom, 33" when I took it > off of the loom (fabric normally shrinks a little in the loom), and 29" > wide after washing/drying. So it was a total of about 25% shrinkage, with > a little over 10% being from the washing. So I shouldn't try to felt the big wool cloak I've already made, hmm. Shucks, it sounded like a good idea. (But wait, 10%, that may be okay, wouldn't it?) Vycke' -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- Disclaimer: Any errors in spelling, tact, or fact are transmission errs. Brain fried -- core dumped. -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- Vycke' Gilliam z009341b@bcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us ----------------------- From: KATHLEEN@ANSTEC.COM Date: Tue, 28 Feb 95 14:26:23 EST Subject: Re: Hoppelande Sleeves For Gwen who asked about houppelande sleeves. I have made many houppelandes. The best one had a two piece sleeve with one seam from about the front armpit and the other running along the back of the elbow. The sleeve top looked like an "S" turned on its side. I guess that's the twist you were talking about. It worked beautifully and hung properly. Kathleen kathleen@anstec.com ----------------------- From: KATHLEEN@ANSTEC.COM Date: Tue, 28 Feb 95 14:15:10 EST Subject: Re: Ottoman Janissaries Bob asks about Ottoman Janissary uniforms. Have you tried Vecellio? It's a period costume book put out by Dover. I believe it has Middle Eastern clothing in it. It's a good place to start. Kathleen kathleen@anstec.com ******************************************************** A costume is not finished until it has cat hair on it. ******************************************************** ----------------------- From: AlisounF@aol.com Date: Tue, 28 Feb 1995 18:42:45 -0500 Subject: Felting Hi, I haven't seen any mention of soap as part of the felting process, but it acts as a lubricant to get the wool fibers sliding against each other. Too much soap and they slide right past each other! Please, remember, detergent isn't the same as soap. I use castile soap, Ivory in a pinch, in the same quantity as I would for the same weight of ordinary laundry. The water needs to feel a little bit slick, but not slimey. I don't use a clothes dryer, but have had good felting results with hot wash (felting occurs) and cold rinse (felting does not occur but it is important to get the soap out. For that matter, with a yard or so I have had good results in a basin with the hot water and soap. I'm starting to make, by hand, some felt from fleece, just getting into 3 dime nsional shapes, like pouches and eventually hats. Consistency of process from test sample to project is taking some time. I guess the same caution might apply to the washing machine, but the variables are fewer--temperature, water quantity, soap quanitiy and time. I have some notes on fiber felting that say shrinkage ranges from 10-25% in both directions, but my experience has been up to 50%, which is probably over-felted, but it can happen. I have consulted two or three books on the subject, but the only one that ever sticks in my mind is Fundamentals of Feltmaking by Patricia Spark. I believe she does not discuss felting yard goods, just fleece. Why am I ever up to my elbows in soapy fleece? Because, in Patterns of Fashion, Janet Arnold examined several tall hats with felt foundations and I would like to make one someday, for the experience of it. Pat LaPointe ----------------------- Date: Tue, 28 Feb 95 17:14:22 PST From: stevet@water.ca.gov 28 February 1995 After spending an hour or so on Mosaic, I'm beginning to think that it needs some polish in the "find section". I did manage to get the idea that you "might" be able to help. (Assuming the E-mail address are current and you actually are associated with the topic I found.) M'Lady is of Highland descent. She wants a sewing pattern of an authentic Highland Woman's Kilt (skirt). Any ideas of where to look or whom to contact? Thank you; Steven L. Turner 500 "N" Street, 902 Sacramento, CA 95814 (916) 443-6377 (Voice/message - USA) (916) 657-4796 (FAX - USA) stevet@water.ca.gov (E-Mail) ----------------------- Date: Tue, 28 Feb 1995 19:20:27 -0600 (CST) From: Kerri Potratz Subject: Biblical costume references On Mon, 27 Feb 1995, Georgia O. Baker - Theatre Arts wrote: > Also, does anyone know any good books on biblical costumes. I'm doing > Superstar this summer and could use your input. Thanks. I am also looking for good biblical costume references. If you could post them that would be wonderful! > *Kerri Potratz**University of South Dakota* / /\ \ *Kpotratz@sunfish.usd.edu \ \/ / \/ ==If I be waspish, best beware my sting!== Shrew, II.i ----------------------- Date: Tue, 28 Feb 1995 23:35:04 -0600 (CST) From: Cynthia Lucille Rosser Subject: Re: Biblical costume references > Try "Biblical Costumes for Church and School" by Virginia Elicker. Abrams, 1953. [I just look up the titles, I donot vouch for the books.] Cindy at UNT reference ----------------------- Date: Wed, 1 Mar 1995 00:41:42 -48000 From: Luanne Cupp Subject: Re: Felting On Tue, 28 Feb 1995 AlisounF@aol.com wrote: > Hi, > > I haven't seen any mention of soap as part of the felting process, but it > acts as a lubricant to get the wool fibers sliding against each other. Too > much soap and they slide right past each other! [...] > Pat LaPointe The purpose of hot water and soap in felting (aka fulling) is to remove grease and "puff up" all the little scales on the wool fibers to make them tangle more efficiently. It's not only a physical but a chemical process (the breaking and remaking of hydrogen bonds in the protein structure, just like putting wet hair in curlers). Luanne Cupp ----------------------- Date: 01 Mar 95 03:23:20 EST From: Gary Anderson <72437.674@compuserve.com> Subject: Folkwear patterns Re Folkwear New Patterns >From Janet Wilson Anderson In addition to the Gallenga Gown and the Traveling Suit (which is, by the way, not shipping now, due to a problem in the pattern - replacements due in shortly, per Folkwear), there are other new 1995 patterns now available: 1. Town and Country dress based on a 1949 Claire McCardell. Halter dress buttons up the front, fitted to the waist, with full gathered skirt. 2. Twenties Day Dress, 1922 style, loose-fitting with kimono-like sleeves. Really interesting dropped waistline with cartridge pleating around the top. Bateau neckline. 3. Siberian Parka - based on a men's parka from Western Siberia, hooded with pockets. These add to last Fall's group: West African Robe/Trousers and Cap, Yoruba Tunic/Trousers/Hat, Claire McCardell Cloister dress and 1920's Equestrienne ensemble with jodphurs, vest and jacket. All illustrated, naturally, in the new Raiments catalog, (and better than in the small catalog put out by Folkwear, since their marketing manager and I had a long talk about photos vs line art illustrations and she said so herself!). All the new patterns now have color pictures on the front (not line art) and they are repackaging the old ones as they reprint. Some of the versions of the garments they've made up for photography are ...um.. interesting in their choices of fabric and colors. By the way, I'm interested in hearing from folks on this forum about their favorite Folkwear pattern. I'm running the single pattern competition for Costume Con 14, and will be picking two patterns for people to choose from. Naturally I have my favorites, but I'd like to hear from you as to which you think best lend themselves to interesting wearable art/fantasy costume/unusual fabric & trim treatments. Let me hear from you. JanetWA ----------------------- Date: Wed, 01 Mar 1995 07:46:49 CDT From: SANDY STAEBELL Subject: source of linen Four Hewes writes: > >Can you recommend sources of linen, either mail-order houses or places in >Dallas or Houston? > >Thanks for your time, -------------------------------- Try writing or calling Ulster Weaving Company, Ltd., 148 Madison Avenue, New York, New York 10016. 212-684-5534. They used to send fabric swatches for a nominal fee. I hope the address and phone number are still current since it's been a while since we ordered from them. Sandy Staebell Kentucky Museum STAEBSL@wkuvx1.wku.edu ----------------------- From: KATHLEEN@ANSTEC.COM Date: Wed, 01 Mar 95 11:02:37 EST Subject: Re: Folkwear patterns In reply to your query about favorite Folkwera patterns, here is my vote: Bolivian milkmaid's jacket -- It is a timeless pattern that I have used with minimal adaptation for several centuries of historic clothing, especially 17th and 18th. I even won a hall costume award at a CostumeCon with a 17th century outfit I'd made using that pattern. Also, the Empire gown. Handy for doing Regency Balls and War of 1812 reenactments around here. Kathleen Norvell kathleen@anstec.com ----------------------- From: marie@caesar.quotron.com Date: Wed, 1 Mar 95 08:12:13 PST Subject: Re: H-Costume Digest, Volume 241, 2/28/95 I recall several months ago, on the Writer's Almanac, one morning, Garrison Keilor mentioned the anniversary of the first bra and who made it. Evidently, it was originally made out of two handkerchiefs. However, I do not remember any more details. I suppose one could contact Minnesota Public Radio for details. ----------------------- From: Tracy023@aol.com Date: Wed, 1 Mar 1995 11:56:52 -0500 Subject: Felting/Fulling Kathy wrote: > I experminted in the recent past with the >felting of wool. ...[snip]... The ability of the fibers to felt to >gether was differant for each >type of wool we used. I'm about to try a small felting/fulling experiment--thanks to you and Beth and others whose messages have taken much of the terror out of textile chemistry--and was going to head for the nearest Good Will or Salvation Army outlet for inexpensive wool samples, in case I ruin it. However, to accurately create wool cloth similar to that used in the 17th C, what type of wool should I buy? And how do I know what sheep produced what kind of wool? Thanks. Tracy ----------------------- Date: Wed, 1 Mar 1995 08:59:36 -0800 (PST) From: Tracey Miller Subject: Re: Folkwear patterns Sorry to go off the subject, but where is CostumeCon this year? My fave Folkwear pattern is the Afgani Nomad's Dress. I think that's the name, anyway. I'm at work, so I can't check. LOTS of opportunity for embrodery and embelishment. Tracy ----------------------- End of Volume 246 -----------------------