From: Gretchen Miller Date: Mon, 6 Mar 1995 18:54:58 -0500 (EST) Subject: H-Costume Digest, Volume 247, 3/6/95 The Historic Costume List Digest, Volume 247, March 6, 1995 Send items for the list to h-costume@andrew.cmu.edu (or reply to this message). Send subscription/deletion requests and inquiries to h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Enjoy! --------------------------------------------------------------- Topics: Favorite Folkwear patterns Info on Folkwears Travelling Suit Replacement More info on Civil War Ladies conference, Columbus, Ohio Where Victorians stored their clothes Shoe and Bra history Cordwainer redux Question and answer: Help on dyeing fabric shades of white Nature of silk in the middle ages/renaissance ISO: Info on 1865 Pinkerton uniforms Joining the Vintage Costume group ----------------------- From: Marsha Hamilton Subject: Folkwear Date: Wed, 1 Mar 1995 12:23:23 -0500 (EST) I made the Bolivian milkmaids jacket and wear it for a 17th century reenactment group. This pattern is very nice, clear, and makes up beautifully in cotton velvet. With a few ribbons and points, its just the thing. I'm currently doing the Edwardian underwear pattern. The drawers were so small (supposedly went up to size 16) that I had to do major, major revision of the pattern to fit. Marsha ----------------------- Date: Wed, 1 Mar 1995 09:55:15 -0800 From: Alison Kondo Subject: Folkwear Patterns I think my all-time favourite Folkwear pattern is the Tibetan Panel Coat, with the Bolivian Milkmaids Jacket & the Austrian Dirndl running neck & neck for second. I've made a lot of the Gaza dresses, too, they're very versatile for different effects, & the Turkish coat can also be fun to do, especially since its reversible, you can do 2 different effects in one coat. Alison I've used mosstly the more "ethnic" Folkwear offerings, so I can't put in votes for the more European/American historical styles, but from earlier reviews here, it sounds like the Gallenga gown might be fun to try. ----------------------- Date: Wed, 1 Mar 1995 13:55:08 -0500 (EST) From: Tempest Subject: Re: Folkwear On Wed, 1 Mar 1995, Marsha Hamilton wrote: > I'm currently doing the Edwardian underwear pattern. The drawers > were so small (supposedly went up to size 16) that I had to do > major, major revision of the pattern to fit. I'm curious to hear about the revision of the Edwardian Underthings pattern because I'm planning on doing it soon. How did you have to make alterations? How did they fit wrong? Did you only make the drawers, or did you make the chemise and petticoat as well? Thanks! Gale -- tempest@access.digex.net * "I said 'she must be swift and white * And subtly warm and half perverse "She's an animal in disguise! * And sweet like sharp soft fruit to bite, She's a mammal!" * And like a snake's love lithe and fierce.'" ----------------------- From: close@lunch.engr.sgi.com (Diane Barlow Close) Subject: Re: Folkwear Favorites and Traveling Suit Problem Date: Wed, 1 Mar 1995 10:57:11 -0800 (PST) Gary Anderson <72437.674@compuserve.com> writes: > ... the Traveling Suit (which is, > by the way, not shipping now, due to a problem in the pattern - > replacements due in shortly, per Folkwear)... If anyone was (un)lucky enough to buy this pattern now, Taunton Press is replacing them for free when the new ones come out in late April. If you call their customer service department (800-888-8286) and let them know they'll send you a fixed copy when they are available. Otherwise you can write to them: The Taunton Press, Inc. 63 S. Main Street P.O. Box 5506 Newtown, CT 06470-5506 (The pattern's problem, fyi, is with the fit of the sleeve.) > By the way, I'm interested in hearing from folks on this forum > about their favorite Folkwear pattern. ... > ... I'd like to hear from you as to which you think best lend > themselves to interesting wearable art/fantasy costume/unusual > fabric & trim treatments. My favorite Folkwears are the Armistice Blouse, the Bolivian Milkmaid Jacket and the Poiret Coat. Of those three, I'd say the first two lend themselves to the most interesting wearable treatments, although the Armistice blouse is a pattern that most people don't think of doing up in anything other than white lace traditional (which is why I think it makes a good candidate for the creative -- it's a challenge). -- Diane Close close@lunch.engr.sgi.com I'm at lunch today. :-) ----------------------- From: DGC3%Rates%FAR@bangate.pge.com Date: Wed, 1 Mar 95 12:41:08 PST Subject: Civil War Lady Conferences I was intrigued by the posting a week or two ago about the Civil War Lady National Conference, and called the magazine for more information. I found out that the magazine is putting on not only a national conference in Columbus Ohio on July 21-23, but a California conference in Fresno on April 29-30, concentrating on ball gowns. The conferences are not held every year, and cost $169 and $179 respectively (this includes several meals as well as lectures, slide shows, and exhibits of historic dress.) Has anyone attended these conferences, or read the magazine? The woman who answered the phone got my attention when she mentioned the take-home book of appropriate fabric swatches: these people understand! Before I send in my $$, I would appreciate hearing from others on this list. Please answer me directly or copy me if you post to the list, as I recieve the digest. Danine Cozzens --------------------------------------------------------- Danine Cozzens Internet: dgc3@pge.com Pacific Gas and Electric Company San Francisco, CA --------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------- Date: Wed, 1 Mar 1995 17:12:58 EST From: elizabeth a fannin Subject: victorian closets reading the message s about victorian closets, i also had this thought: wouldn't it be easier to moth-proof clothes in storage in armoires, etc than in closets? not that that is a *reason* for them, but it might have been a reason against switching. woolens being possibly even more common then....as someone (thank you!) pointed out earlier, moths won't chew through cotton (i sure hope they're right! ;-). wouldn't it be easier to store things in cotton bags, for instance, folded, than hung? well, maybe not. probably barking up the wrong tree altogether. but here's one: when was the earliest clothes-hanger? ;-) ----------------------- Date: Wed, 1 Mar 1995 15:37:20 -800 (PST) From: Bird Goodwin Subject: Re: H-Costume Digest, Volume 240, 2/28/95 Kat, About those great rounded toe high heels...They were most popular in the forties, but were seen in slight variations in the thirties and fifties. In the fifties, however, is when the stilettoe arrived on the scene. I have several pairs of the 40s pump in a variety of styles and colors...this is one of my most favorite eras! I collect (and occasionally sell) vintage clothing and accessories. Would love to hear from others with the same interest. Bird in Idaho ----------------------- Date: Wed, 1 Mar 1995 16:01:48 -800 (PST) From: Bird Goodwin Subject: Re: H-Costume Digest, Volume 241, 2/28/95 --babs and all, I believe the bra celebrated its 100th birthday in 1990. As I recall LIFE magazine made it a cover story with an article giving the historical information. Bird ----------------------- Date: Wed, 1 Mar 1995 19:09:14 -0500 (EST) From: Gretchen Miller Subject: Re: Cordwainers Excerpts from internet.other.h-costume: 24-Feb-95 Cordwainers by "Jim O'Connor"@cambridge > Interesting word that, if a shipwright builds ships, and a housewright > builds houses, then a wainwright builds wagons, so what does a cordwainer do? > The cord is apparently a contraction of cordovan so it would seem he > makes wagons of cordovan. Which is a good description of a leather shoe. Close, but no cigar--that's over analyzing the word. While "wain" does, indeed, come from wAEgn, the old english word for wagon, and "cord" does mean "to bind something with wood" corwain is (at least according to my dictionary) from the middle english cordwane--or Cordovan leather. A cordwainer is then a worker in cordovan leather. toodles, gretchen ----------------------- Date: Wed, 1 Mar 95 16:23:23 PST From: donna@Kwantlen.BC.CA (Donna Hrynkiw) Subject: Help-help! Need Dyeing Advice There -must- be someone here who can help me. I need some dyeing advice. I have a two 12-yards-each pieces of 48"-wide, medium-weight, white-white 100% cotton fabric. I need to dye this fabric into something not quite as white; say ivory, cream, or off-white. The two pieces MUST end up the same colour. The scant dyeing experience I've had up to now (okay, I'll admit it, I've done it -once-) involved RIT dye in my washing machine and a couple of t-shirts and socks. How in this earth do I dye such a large amount of fabric all at once so that the colour comes out the same for both pieces and -even- (I've heard it can be a problem)? Suggestions welcome. Words of wisdom and experience even more welcome. Donna (the other Donna) Hrynkiw (SCA: Elizabeth Braidwood) donna@kwantlen.bc.ca ----------------------- Date: Wed, 1 Mar 1995 21:23:08 -0800 From: beth@direct.ca (Miss Elizabeth Allison Krisciunas) Subject: Re: H-Costume Digest, Volume 241, 2/28/95 I'm suprised that no one has mentioned this but in the Feb.1995 issue of Victoria there is an article on Poupie Cadolle, a French lingerie designer. Her family owns the patent for the brassiere which they recorded in 1889. I have seen this claim in quite a few fashion magazines over the years and she claims that her techniques were handed down to her through the family so it's doubtful that these bras were flimsy triangles of cloth. Her work is carried at Neiman Marcus 1-800-825-8255 so perhaps a buyer there could direct those interested in Poupie's direction. Beth 2 Elizabeth Allison Krisciunas ----------------------- Date: Thu, 2 Mar 1995 01:04:44 -0400 (EST) From: andrea ruth leed Subject: the nature of silk It's a widely known fact that silk was popular in the late middle ages and renaissance. But what, exactly, were dresses made of period silk like? Was it like the raw silk we wear nowadays, or the thin china silk stuff, or something slightly thicker like the silk used for some kimonos? I know that transparent silk gauze was used for veils, but I don't know what the thicker silks were like. Anyone? Drea ============================= aleed@ezmail.ucs.indiana.edu ----------------------- Date: Thu, 2 Mar 95 00:17 CST To: h-costume@andrew.cmu.edu From: richardw@mcs.net (Richard Wasserman) Subject: 1865 Pinkerton Agent Clothing I need information on the clothing and badge a Pinkerton agent would have worn in 1865 when guarding President Lincoln. This is just before the western denim look. This is for an historical reenactment for a 6th grade special event. Thanks Richard ----------------------- From: Mrs C S Yeldham Date: 02 Mar 95 09:30:00 GMT Subject: Silk I have read somewhere (lost in the mists of memory) that silk in the late medieval/early modern period was brought from China along the Silk Route as bolts of cloth - ie woven in the chinese style, fairly light. Then somewhere in the Middle East - along the eastern edges of the Mediteranean?, it was unwoven and rewoven into the heavier silks preferred by the west. Thus even before the promotion of silk production in the west there were skilled people around who knew how to handle it. I have no idea how true this is - anyone any information? Caroline ----------------------- From: jennyb@pdd.3com.com Date: Thu, 2 Mar 95 10:30:19 GMT Subject: Re: Silk I've never heard of silk being unravelled & rewoven, I have heard of Byzantium producing silks in large quantities in the early medieval period. The Norse Varangian gaurd employed as an elite force of bodygaurds by the Byzantine emporer were partly paid in silks, they were entitled to silk tunics as part of their pay. These silks were then taken back to their Northern Homelands. I attended a Medieval dress & Textile Society meeting last autumn which included a talk on the Byzantine silk trade. I should still have my notes somewhere I shall try to dig them up. Jennifer ----------------------- Date: Thu, 2 Mar 1995 09:27:40 -0500 From: eliz@world.std.com (Elizabeth Lear) Subject: Re: H-Costume Digest, Volume 240, 2/28/95 >I collect (and occasionally sell) vintage clothing and accessories. >Would love to hear from others with the same interest. >Bird in Idaho Ah, then I suggest you join the Vintage mailing list. The list address is vintage@lunch.asd.sgi.com, and you can join by sending mail to majordomo@lunch.asd.sgi.com with the message SUBSCRIBE VINTAGE. To get the information file without joining, send the message INFO VINTAGE instead. ...eliz ----------------------- Date: Thu, 2 Mar 1995 9:03:14 -0600 (CST) From: Deb Subject: RE: Help-help! Need Dyeing Advice re: two 12 yard pieces, to dye identically It depends on the size of your washing machine. I've dyed numerous articles with Rit (I know, it's a wimpy dye, and it fades, but it's easy and fun and feels creative) using the machine. I catch the machine at the end of the wash cycle, before it rinses, and start it back at the beginning again. At least 3 times, usually. I've done a single 15 yard swath, about 48" wide. It IS rather a pain to do that much, but it's possible. After each wash cycle, untwist it as much as possible (I know, it's still sopping wet, since we didn't run the rinse cycle yet**). 15 yards of fabric likes to twist itself into a really long rope. You'll have sore shoulder muscles till you get it un-twisted (and do it 3-4 times) but you must, if you want dye consistency. **It might be worth the cost, to let it DO the rinse cycle, untwist it after the rinse cycle, and pay for more Rit packages if you need to do another cycle. TWO swaths of 12 yards each might be a challenge. If you have a modern "super" size washer, I'd say give it a try. If you are only aiming for ivory, or cream, you don't need quite as much time as my deep red colors. Also, minor uneven-ness won't show, though continuing to untwist and hand stir the fabric will help alleviate that. I've dyed this same 15 yard swath at least 8 times now, trying to make the initial pale green (with manufacturer's dying errors & splotches, hence the sale price) turn a deep enough rose. I still wind up with uneven-ness, since the under color was uneven. But I think it'll do, at this point! Deb Baddorf baddorf@fnal.gov ----------------------- From: KATHLEEN@ANSTEC.COM Date: Thu, 02 Mar 95 10:31:26 EST Subject: Re: the nature of silk Try a book called "The Silk Worker's Notebook." I have the citation at home (I'm at the office now) and I can find it for you. I got it from the WINTERSILKS catalog. It has information on the history and care of silk. Very helpful book. I'll try to find the information. I have seen Medieval silk *velvet* from Italy -- absolutely gorgeous. Kathleen kathleen@anstec.com ----------------------- From: KATHLEEN@ANSTEC.COM Date: Thu, 02 Mar 95 10:26:02 EST Subject: Re: Help-help! Need Dyeing Advice Donna -- I've never dyed that large a quantity of fabric, but here's what I would do. Use an industrial size washing machine if you can find one, or a regular one if it will hold that much fabric. Brew up a lot of *really strong tea* in hot water (and I mean use several boxes of bags or loose tea) into a concentrate and pour it into the machine when it is filling up. Then do the wash and rinse cycle as usual. I tea dye a lot of white stuff that I want off-white, but it's usually small things like lace or cotton gloves or hose. I just brew up the tea very strong and boil the fabric in it for a few minutes. It's kind of a hit and miss technique to determine how dark you want something. The longer it stays in the tea, the darker it will be, but of course it will rinse out several shades lighter. And once you have rinsed it out, you can always put it back in the tea if it's not dark enough. BTW, I have seen "tea dye" in packets like RIT in Wal-Mart in the crafts section. If you have access to a Wal-Mart, you might check it out. I don't know how much fabric it will dye, but the instrucitons are on the packet. Good luck. Kathleen kathleen@anstec.com ----------------------- From: LIVERMORE@BINAH.CC.BRANDEIS.EDU Date: Thu, 02 Mar 1995 11:01:17 -0500 (EST) Subject: dyeing white to ivory I have had very good luck dyeing small quantities of white fabric to ivory, beige, whatever, by using tea. It works fine on cotton. It's important to make up some test swatches and look at them dry in order to determine whether the tea solution is too weak, too strong, etc. It's also important to use the same tea bath for all of the goods you want to be that particular color -- tea dyeing is unscientific and it would be difficult to replicate your results exactly. If you're in doubt about the color, remember you can always run the goods through the bath again to make them darker, but lightening can be a problem (tea stains awfully; a plus in using it as a dye, a minus if you're clumsy with your cup, like me). As for dyeing twelve-yard pieces, have you considered a big sink or a bathtub? Draw a bunch of very hot water, throw some tea bags in, and adjust by adding more water or adding more tea bags or leaving the tea bags in longer. Take out the tea bags, and make some swatches, timing each with a stopwatch. When you're ready, throw your goods in all at once, time them carefully, yank them out and rinse and dry them. Voila! -- Anne livermore@binah.brandeis.edu ----------------------- End of Volume 247 -----------------------