From: Gretchen Miller Date: Fri, 9 Jun 1995 18:42:55 -0400 (EDT) Subject: H-Costume Digest, Volume 324, 6/9/95 The Historic Costume List Digest, Volume 324, June 9, 1995 Send items for the list to h-costume@andrew.cmu.edu (or reply to this message). Send subscription/deletion requests and inquiries to h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Enjoy! ------------------------------ Topics: Medieval shoes and leatherwork Button sources Costumes in "Gettysburg" Marin Quilt and Needlearts show (SF Bay area) G-street address, and fabric shopping advice Suggestion: List of vendors and bibliographies Frock coat advice/Regency bibliography ISO: Hints on reviving old fur Indelicate costuming terms Silk satin ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jennyb@pdd.3com.com Date: Thu, 8 Jun 95 09:58:46 BST Subject: Re: Medieval Shoes in particular and Medieval Leatherwork in general I'm totally snowed under at work this week, & this weekend I'm off to a course on medieval dress & textiles. Before you wonder why I'm burdening you with my problems, I just wanted to let you know that I shall look up the refernces for you, but it will probably not happen until next week. I've got two refernces here at work though, so here they are: Willy Groenmann-van Waateringe "Die Lederfunde von Haithabu" Published by Karl Wacholtz verlag, Neumenstaer ISBN 3 529 1921 6 This has a wealth of drawings of shoes, plus pouches, the only surviving early medieval quiver I know of (shows my ignorance?), belts, gloves you name it. Most are in poor condition but the diagrams are sufficiently clear that one can reconstruct the originals. Margrethe Hald "Primitive Shoes" 1972 This one deserves to be better known, tons of information on shoes up to early medieval, the text discusses each shoe and how the shoe evolved over time witgh various design features changing. Includes unusual shoes such as the scottish pampootie (a gathered shoe rather than a sewn one). I'll look up the rest of the Hald refernce & the other stuff next week (time permitting) if anytone gets impatient feel free to email me a reminder. Jennifer ------------------------------ From: PM035@lampeter.ac.uk Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 10:44:34 +0100 (BST) Subject: Buttons and things. I have created an American Civil War uniform ( 1862, 1st. Art. Confed. ) but need to get hold of brass buttons ( csa )- Any ideas, N.J.Smith. ------------------------------ From: ccuccherini@casde.com Date: Thu, 08 Jun 95 08:49:34 EST Subject: Re: Gettysburg Hello, This is in response to Antonia's question about the movie Gettysburg, which was: > How accurate are the costumes in the movie? I noticed that some > of the men wore very large hats. Is this the influence of the > 1990s? I do Civil War Living History but have not seen the film yet. (I know, I know boo hiss on me). Anyway, I forwarded the question on to my gentlemen friend who also does Civil War Living History. Jeff had the following to say: "The uniforms in G-burg are typical re-enactor type which means that at least on the outside they are authentic, linings might be missing, etc. The re-enactors made Ted Turner go as authentic as possible in dress and to the book itself (Killer Angels). Slouch hats were worn mid to late war (big Hats)." He said he would be happy to answer any further questions you may \have. You can email him directly at: JBackus129@aol.com I hope this helps. Wedding rings on men, I am still looking into. Respectfully, Carolyn A. Cuccherini ccuccherini@casde.com Alexandria, Virginia USA ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 8 Jun 95 9:59:53 EDT From: "Jane Sauls" Subject: Buttons and things. Button, button, who's got a button? The Button Lady N.J. Smith wrote Subject: Re: WWI uniform Someone asked about a source for a WWI officier's uniform pattern. I'm assuming it's American? Have you already tried contacting: Great War Militaria P.O. Box 552 Chambersburg, Pa 17201 Great War Society FR Carroll P.O. Box 3585 Stan ford, CA 94309 (408)426-7646 Perhaps they can help. If you're not doing American, there are also British based groups. I'm afraid I don't have that information at work. Sheridan Alder ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 10:23:02 -0700 From: janet@astron.berkeley.edu (janet henry 601) For those of you who live in the San Francisco Bay Area or are able to travel here you might consider visiting the Marin Quilt and Needle Arts Show on September 1,2,3, 1995. I just received a copy of their program of events and thought some of you might be interested. I will give only a brief outline and if you are interested you can send a SASE to Marin Quilt and Needle Arts Show, PO Box 6015, San Rafael, CA 94093-0015 or call (415) 893-0139. I also want to mention that I have no connection to the show and am merely passing on information. Friday, Sept. 1 Italian Renaissance Costumes of the Palio with Vima deMarchi Micheli. Vima shows costumes from the historic horse race in the majestic medieval hill town of Siena. "The Hat Party", a melodrama with the Broken Dishes Repertory Theater and Quilting Chamber Trio. Saturday, Sept. 2 Flamboyancy Rising with Linda Schmidt. Linda presents a fashion show of her own creations - wearable art. Expanding Color Choices with Mary Mashuta. Sunday, Sept. 3 A Moo-ving Experience, A Trunk Show with Cathie Hoover - wearable art. In Love with a Stitch, Embroidered, Knitted, and Crocheted with Sylvia Landman - wearable art. ------------------------------ From: VICKI@lib.uttyl.edu Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 13:41:43 -0500 (CDT) Subject: calico buttons I'm looking for a matched set of a dozen calico buttons.....I think I'll give the button lady a call. Any other suggestions? Vicki Bets {can't go back up a line--that should be Betts} vicki@lib.uttyl.edu ------------------------------ From: KATHLEEN@ANSTEC.COM Date: Thu, 08 Jun 95 15:55:05 EST Subject: G Street Fabrics For people seeking sources of silk velvet and silk satin, here is the address of G Street Fabrics. G Street Fabrics 11854 Rockville Pike Rockville, MD 20852 Silk velvet (silk/rayon, as discussed before here) $33.95/yd. Silk-faced satin (silk on the outside, rayon inside) $49.95/yd Silk satin $98.95 yd (!!) They also have raw silks for $7-9/yd (sale price, but I've found some NICE stuff). They will do mail order and swatches. You can request a swatch and they will send you one approximately 2" x 6-7" along with an order form. Also, if you send a swatch they will attempt to match it. Mail-in is by check, money order, phone in by credit card. Phone number for mail order is 1-800-333-9191 I have been known to get a swatch at G-Street (I live about 15 minutes away), then drive to Philadelphia and get the fabric a lot cheaper. For example, a few years ago, I needed green sequined chiffon for an evening jacket. I got a swatch at G Street ($69.95 and $79.95/yd), and drove to Philly where I got my yardage at $29.95/yd. You do what you have to. Perhaps some of the Philadelphia people on this list (they must be out there) can post some of the good fabric stores on 4th Street where you can get period fabric or replica fabric. Kathleen kathleen@anstec.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 08 Jun 1995 15:08:42 -0500 (CDT) From: Mary M Spila Subject: Shops and bibliographies I have a suggestion, and this may be in the faq (I haven't read it in a while), but could someone compile a listing of all of the shops/vendors addresses that have been suggested as good places to find things. It would be so much easier to pull up one list of address (And what they sell), than have to go back through several hundred digests to find the address for a supplier. And then send this list out as a seperate digest or by request. Second, Is someone archiving the bibliographies seperate from the general posts? Same reasons as above. I could probibly do one or the other but not both (I have a job.). MAry/Marian mms6824@tntech.edu ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 15:22:10 -0500 (EST) From: dbrowne Subject: Re: What Colour is Purple? A deep marron or burgendy is what your looking for. Good luck. Kathy B Katrinn On Wed, 7 Jun 1995, Lassman, Linda wrote: > I'm going to be going to a Saturnalia event in January, and was wanting to > try to hit the end of season remnants for wool. I know that purple in the > ancient world was much redder than the nice grape colour that one sees today, > but can anyone tell me what the modern equivalent would be? > > - Linda Lassman > Winnipeg, Manitoba > > ---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+--- > Lassman@bldgdafoe.lan1.umanitoba.ca > ---+---+---+---+---+---+---+---+--- > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 16:04:11 -0500 (CDT) From: Deb Subject: RE: Frock Coat Don't recall if anyone has answered this query yet; I just saw it in the DIGEST version and thought I'd better answer it. > The Cut of Men's Clothes, 1600-1900 - Norah Waugh > Also back in print! This is a practical, useful reference book with > descriptions of changing styles. Many detailed cutting patterns and > photos of original garments. _Fashion for Men: An Illustrated History_, by Diana de Marly. Holmes & Meier, 1985. Waugh's book has patterns. I'm not sure about the rest of these, they may just have useful pictures: _The Male Image: Men's Fashion in England 1300-1970_, by Penelope Byrde. B. T. Batsford, 1979. _Nineteenth Century Fashion_, by Penelope Byrde. B. T. Batsford, 1992. _The Age of Napoleon: Costume from Revolution to Empire 1789-1815_, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1989. _Revolution in Fashion 1715-1815_, Kyoto Costume Institute. Abbeville Press, 1989. The last three of these books contain information on and pictures of men's and women's clothes. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 08 Jun 95 16:31:09 PST From: "Cynthia Barnes" Subject: Reviving old fur Does anyone have happy results to share for reviving that ratty fur you found at the flea market? You know, the 1950s mink coat with the shoulders torn out that, if it wasnt so stiff, would make lovely trim for a knock-off of a Worth gown (the rust colored wool with the mink cuffs & hem). I've got an impressive collection of "leather revivers" that just dont do the job. What's the secret? Should I just not spend the $15 next time I see one of these coats? Similarly, during Marie-Antoinette's time, there was a fashionable brown called (English translation) "Dauphin-poop". I am reminded of "Vomitesse de la Reine", a soft gray. Similarera. Perhaps even the same Queen. --cin Cynthia Barnes internet: Cynthia@caere.com "If you rebel against high heels, take care to do so with a very smart hat." --George Bernard Shaw ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 09 Jun 1995 09:54:54 +0000 From: "GILLIAN RICHARDS (02) 716 3712" Subject: Silk Satin Lindcraft (Australia) has Silk Satin that sings on the fingers and glides through the machine. I've made a quilted waistcoat out of it and Japanese silk lining with felt padding (not historical, I know) and the joy of it!!! They accept O/S Mail orders with credit card numbers, and you are welcome to ring them on Australia (61) 2 221 5111 During Australian Business Hours. I get nothing for this, I've just been impressed by their ranges and quality. Gillian Richards ------------------------------ From: BPH3213@ACS.TAMU.EDU Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 19:52:11 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Button sources For a Confederate jacket, I would highly recommend avoiding CSA marked buttons. They were not very commmon. In place, I would suggest using Federal issue General Service buttons (eagle), or, if you want something with a more southern look,, the large block A button (for an artillery jacket). Another possiblle route would be to go with state seal buttons. Here are some sources of cheap button, stamped from ORIGINAL dies. Only the backs are different from originals, on not by much. Grey Owl's (Indian Craft Supplies) 132-05 Merrick Blvd. PO Box 340468 Jamaica, NY 11434 (718) 341-4000 CSA buttons. large 7/8 60 cents each or $5.25 per dozen small 5/8 50 cents each or $4.50 per dozen catalog number MB-8237, state which size needed US Eagle (General Service) MB-123 same prices and sizes US Ordnance button (cannons may be crossed at angles suggesting post Civil War period dies were used) MB-123 OPPS, WRONG NUMBER GIVEN FOR GENERAL SERVICE BUTTON it is MB-620, not 123 (sorry, this editor does not allow me to back up a line and fix that) They also have a Confederate Staff button (eagle and stars) MB-3508 and a US Navy button MB-5216. For block buttons, (Confederate A-artillery, E (engineers, VERY rare in actual use, R-mounted rifles), try: se Dixie Gun Works 1-800-238-6785 for orders These are stamped from ORIGINAL dies, in England (Dowler's in Birmingham). A is MG0803 (Roman block letter, more common) A in script (less common) is BU0801 E (script) MG0804 R (block) MG0805 Staff (as Grey Owl's) BU0802 these are $4.75 each, which is quite stiff. Restamps are usually to be found under $1 from CW suttlers. Dixie also carries state seal buttons. These are $1.50 each for large or small, or 4 for $5.20. Large is MG0501 and specify the state. small are MG0502. They also carry silver buttons as someone else asked about. These, as well as a brass version, look pretty good for the price, and use hand soldered eyes. come in 1 inch and 5/8 size. slight dome. Brass large BU0234 3 for $3.30 brass small BU0234 3 for $3.30 silver large BU0236 3 for $3.75 silver small BU0237 3 for $3.75 They also have a variety of pewter styles. In additon, the follwoing Confederate styles are also carried by them, and againmade from ORIGINAL dies, this time from Paris. These are ALL 4 for $4.00, and come in large or small. Union eagle, Union cavalry, CSA, Union Staff, Union artillery, Union infantry, CS withg stars (staff?) Confed. block I, Confederate block A, and Texas State buttons. The CS artillery block A's are number BU0456 for large and BU0475 for small. If anyone needs numbers for the others in the listing, let me know and I'll send it to you. I've ordered from both companies, and have been pleased with the quality and price of the buttons the offer. I know of a few other sources, but for CW military buttons, these are the best proces I know of through mail order, and they are stamped from original dies so they look right. The silver and brass civilian buttons also look good, and can be used on items from colonial times through the 19th century for the most part. Bryan H bph3213@acs.tamu.edu ------------------------------ From: Cpt11Miss@aol.com Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 21:06:31 -0400 Subject: Re: Gettysburg The uniforms were accurate to a certain degree. 95% of the people you were viewing were C.W. reenactors from all over the country. Therefore the uniforms varied from state to state. Many of the uniforms were of the type you would have probably only saw in the western theater. The authenticity would have to be evaluated on an individual basis. Many were very correct; some not so correct. The large hats (called slouch hats) were prefered to keep the sun of the face. VERY common in both armies, especially towards the end of the war. Ted Turner "used" every one he could. The reenactors basically did the movie (most of them) for free. He lost alot of the authentic hardcore reenactore who would have participated by not offering at least a fair compensation for all our work and effort. Due to the fact that many of us have reenacted for 18 years +, many of the newer soldiers have access to more correct information on authenticity and where to get it. But there is much more to being a soldier and living historian than putting on a uniform. Let me know if you have any questions. I am happy to help. Layne Chartrand, Captain of the 11th Miss. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 8 Jun 95 18:41:45 PDT From: aterry@Teknowledge.COM (Allan Terry) Subject: Regency bibliography I'm the person who originally posted the bibliography below, in response to an inquiry about information on Regency costumes, especially men's. The bibliography was quoted in Deb Baddorf's recent message with some additional quotes from a recent posting about Waugh's books being back in print. To answer Deb's question about which of these books contain patterns, Waugh's book is primarily a pattern and construction guide. _Revolution in Fashion_ includes three patterns of women's dresses by Janet Arnold, which do not appear in Arnold's other books. The rest of the books I cited contain useful information and pictures but no patterns. Fran Grimble > The Cut of Men's Clothes, 1600-1900 - Norah Waugh > Also back in print! This is a practical, useful reference book with > descriptions of changing styles. Many detailed cutting patterns and > photos of original garments. _Fashion for Men: An Illustrated History_, by Diana de Marly. Holmes & Meier, 1985. Waugh's book has patterns. I'm not sure about the rest of these, they may just have useful pictures: _The Male Image: Men's Fashion in England 1300-1970_, by Penelope Byrde. B. T. Batsford, 1979. _Nineteenth Century Fashion_, by Penelope Byrde. B. T. Batsford, 1992. _The Age of Napoleon: Costume from Revolution to Empire 1789-1815_, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1989. _Revolution in Fashion 1715-1815_, Kyoto Costume Institute. Abbeville Press, 1989. The last three of these books contain information on and pictures of men's and women's clothes. ------------------------------ End of Volume 324 -----------------------