From: Gretchen Miller <grm+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Date: Fri,  7 Jul 1995 18:27:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: H-Costume Digest, Volume 335, 7/7/95

The Historic Costume List Digest, Volume 335, July 7, 1995

Send items for the list to h-costume@andrew.cmu.edu (or reply to this message).

Send subscription/deletion requests and inquiries to
h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu

Enjoy!

------------------------------
Topics:
Question and answer: Body forms for the beginning artist
Costume Technician wanter, Sonoma State U
Question: Painted armor
Woad's effects
Elizabethan fan idea
Braveheart costumes
Question and answer: Info on 16th C beadwork
ISO: Amazon Drygoods address/phone
ISO: Period behavior manual

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 Jul 95 22:02 WET
From: bach@lava.net (Terry A. Bach)
Subject: body forms

I was wondering if anybody out there could help me.  I will be designing
for two plays soon, and although my pattern making and sewing skills are
excellent, my drawing is terrible!  I need to present renderings to the
director.  I wondered if anybody knew of a book with body forms ( men
and 
ladies, plus- size ladies as well), that I could use as a base for my
sketches.  Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Laura Bach
bach@lava.net

------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 1995 11:25:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Katherine L. Rodman" <afn25136@freenet.ufl.edu>
Subject: Re: drawing skills   Re: body forms

Terry:
Like you, my drawing skills are lacking.  Two basic suggestions, get a
good anatomy book, there is one based on Da Vinci's work that I have,
and secondly take a life drawing class.  Even though I rarely draw
people in the nude, I have found that this class helped alot.  One other
suggestion that I use, instead of trying to draw your rendering with
clothes to begin with, draw a stick figure of your pose, then add flesh,
then draw your clothing onto your fleshed out body.  This has made all
the difference in the world to me.

I hope this helps.

Kat Rodman

On Sat, 1 Jul 1995, Terry A. Bach wrote:

> I was wondering if anybody out there could help me.  I will be designing for 
> two plays soon, and although my pattern making and sewing skills are 
> excellent, my drawing is terrible!  I need to present renderings to the 
> director.  I wondered if anybody knew of a book with body forms ( men and 
> ladies, plus- size ladies as well), that I could use as a base for my 
> sketches.  Any help would be greatly appreciated!
> Laura Bach
> bach@lava.net
> 
> 
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 03 Jul 1995 11:01:47 +0000
From: "GILLIAN RICHARDS (02) 716 3712" <Gillian.Richards@tafensw.edu.au>
Subject: Re : Types of lacings

Actually, if one has to ask the question, then the chances are that it
would be of interest to others as well, and you are the only one brave
enough to speak out!

I would like to know, too.

Gillian

P.S. "The only stupid question is the one you don't ask."  G. Bray, CSN Sydney

------------------------------
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 1995 19:50:49 -0700
From: fishcat@hooked.net (Trystan L. Bass)
Subject: Re: body forms

bach@lava.net (Terry A. Bach) asked:
>I was wondering if anybody out there could help me.  I will be designing for
>two plays soon, and although my pattern making and sewing skills are
>excellent, my drawing is terrible!  I need to present renderings to the
>director.  I wondered if anybody knew of a book with body forms ( men and
>ladies, plus- size ladies as well), that I could use as a base for my
>sketches.  Any help would be greatly appreciated!
>Laura Bach
>bach@lava.net

There are some good body forms in the Whole Costumer's Catalog.  There's
a set of "average" male & female body forms & a set of "high-fashion"
male & female forms.  I use these a lot!

Here's the contact info:
              Whole Costumer's Catalog
              Box 207, Main Street
              Beallsville, PA  15313
              (412) 632-3242
             Compuserve:  71620,2247

 fishcat@hooked.net      @->->-- Trystan L. Bass --<-<-@     TrystBass@aol.com
                                        http://www.hooked.net/users/fishcat/

------------------------------
From: LarryKin@aol.com
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 1995 23:47:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Creative Jobs for Creative People

In a message dated 95-07-02 13:28:02 EDT, you write:

>
>This morning's Santa Rosa Press-Democrat carried, among its classifieds, 
>the following two job openings.  I thought of you guys, and your friends, 
>and your friends' friends:
>
>COSTUME TECHNICIAN.  Center for Performing Arts, Sonoma State 
>University.  Part-time salary $13.20-$15.80/hour.  Cutter/draper.  
>Review will begin with resumes received by 7/12 and continue until 
>position is filled.  Send resume to:  Human Services, PO37, SSU, 1801 E. 
>Cotati Avenue, Rohnert Park, CA  94928.

from ann to larry to h-costume. l kincaid

------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 95 10:28:37 BST
From: Alan Braggins <armb@setanta.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-Costume Digest, Volume 332, 6/30/95

> Apologies if this has already been covered. Oh, by the way--judging from
> this film, nothing comes between a Scotsman and his kilt. Nothing.

Hence the old joke "Is anything worn under the kilt? No, its all in
perfect order."

Anyway, talk of Scotland reminds me of something I saw this weekend - a
painting of two knights who had been killed "doing their duty in
Scotland". Foolishly, I didn't make a note of their names or the dates,
but what interested me was that they were shown with their arms painted
on their breastplates (not on a surcoat). (One of them did have a
shield, but its inside was towards the viewer, so I've no idea whether
it was painted too).

The whole thing was pretty stylised, and the arms were quartered enough
that they looked more designed to show the family tree than to provide
identification in battle, but was it ever customary to paint armour?

------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 1995 07:04:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: Judy Gerjuoy <jaelle@access.digex.net>
Subject: Re: H-Costume Digest, Volume 332, 6/30/95

On Mon, 3 Jul 1995, Alan Braggins wrote:
> 
> Anyway, talk of Scotland reminds me of something I saw this weekend - a
> painting of two knights who had been killed "doing their duty in Scotland".
> Foolishly, I didn't make a note of their names or the dates, but what
> interested me was that they were shown with their arms painted on their
> breastplates (not on a surcoat). (One of them did have a shield, but its
> inside was towards the viewer, so I've no idea whether it was painted too).
> 
> The whole thing was pretty stylised, and the arms were quartered enough
> that they looked more designed to show the family tree than to provide
> identification in battle, but was it ever customary to paint armour?

I would like to know the dates and where those knights were supposed to
be from. I would especially like to know when the pictures was done! I
do costuming and heraldry, and collect pictures of people wearing their
heraldry.  A quick run through my pictures and what little I have in the
way of books on armour shows no pictures of men wearing their arms
painted directly on their breastplates.  They were it on
tabards/surcoats yes, but not directly on their armour.  There are a
couple of pictures that look that way at first glance, but closer
inspection shows what to be inaccurate.

However, just because I don't know of any examples, doesn't mean it's
didn't happen - just that I don't know of any!
 

Jaelle
jaelle@access.digex.net

------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 1995 07:56:46 -0500 (EST)
From: andrea ruth leed <aleed@indiana.edu>
Subject: Re: Woad Warrior

Woad is also a hallucinogenic drug when ingested.  Who knows, enough
smeared on your skin would probably have the same effect.  No wonder the
celts were so scary in battle...thousands of naked, tripping berserkers
would not be a fun thing to face.

Drea
=============================
aleed@ezmail.ucs.indiana.edu

------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 1995 07:58:13 -0500 (EST)
From: andrea ruth leed <aleed@indiana.edu>
Subject: Re: Late 16th cen, fans

I've no idea if this is period, but the easiest solution I see would be
to make the wooden handle and use a drill to drill holes along the top
to glue the feathers in.

Drea

On Fri, 30 Jun 1995, dbrowne wrote:

>  I am looking for good instructions on constructing a tuft fan.  
> The kind with a solid handle and feathers emerging from it.  Any 
> nibbles?  How about you Elizabethian folk?
> Katrinn
> Kathy B
> 
> 

=============================
aleed@ezmail.ucs.indiana.edu

------------------------------
Date: Mon, 03 Jul 1995 12:36:25 -0400
From: Beth Stegenga <NOBAM@huber.com>
Subject:  COSTUME: Braveheart -Reply

>>> Christina Cary <ccary@tiara.wpd.sgi.com> 06/26/95 01:52pm >>>
> For one, the bridal gown is ivory and gold. I thought that white/ivory
bridal gowns weren't popular until Queen Victoria, who married about
1840 or so. Was white/ivory also worn before that, or was this done to
cue modern audiences that she was the bride in the scene?

I have not seen Braveheart (YET), but I can comment on this.  Brides did
not wear white in the Middle Ages.  And yes, white dresses came into
fashion during the Victorian Age.  In medieval times, the bride wore her
best dress, and this tradition carried up until the late 1800's. 
However, popular patterns for bridal dresses came and went, such as the
plaid faze that happened in America during the 1860's.  As for
Braveheart, I would think the costumers did this to clue the audience
in.  If they had her wearing a more authentic dress, many people would
comment about why she was not wearing white, was she not pure, etc.  I
have heard, however, that queens about to be crowned wore white.  

All and all, in period films, they usually mess up weddings.  For
instance, they portray them as being inside the church, but this did not
start to happen until the 15th c (or late 14th).  Until then, the actual
ceremony was performed outside at the chapel doors, then all went inside
for prayer. That does spoil the effect, however, of the bride coming
down the aisle. 

Beth
nobam@huber.com

------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 1995 11:42:44 -0500 (CDT)
From: Gwyndlyn J Ferguson <mugjf@uxa.ecn.bgu.edu>
Subject: Re: body forms

On Sat, 1 Jul 1995, Terry A. Bach wrote:

> I was wondering if anybody out there could help me.  I will be designing for 
> two plays soon, and although my pattern making and sewing skills are 
> excellent, my drawing is terrible!  I need to present renderings to the 
> director.  I wondered if anybody knew of a book with body forms ( men and 
> ladies, plus- size ladies as well), that I could use as a base for my 
> sketches.  Any help would be greatly appreciated!
> Laura Bach
> bach@lava.net
> 
Laura,
 Since it looks like you are at a University, try the library in the
fashion design area (it's the "TX" area in Lib.Congress, I think). 
There are several books available about fashion drawing, and most give
blank body forms for women, men and children.  I know 'cause I can't
draw either!> 
gf

*Gwyn Ferguson***Western Illinois University
*SCA: Lady Gwyndlyn Caer Vyrddin***Lochmorrow-Midrealm
*Internet: mugjf@bgu.edu

------------------------------
Date: 3 Jul 1995 11:11:07 -0800
From: "Karen Lovejoy" <karen.lovejoy@txgtwy.mcis.washington.edu>
Subject: Beadwork

                       Subject:                               Time:10:58
  OFFICE MEMO          Beadwork                               Date:7/3/95

Hello, I am new to this network so I'm not sure if this is the right
place to post this or not but anyway, here goes.  I am seeking sources
of information about the techniques used in application of beads to
cloth as it was practised in the Middle Ages, most particularly in the
16th century.  If you
know of any books or articles or anything else that would be of any help
in my quest, I would be most appreciative if you would send an answer my
way. Also, I found an address for a beadwork network in Bead And  Button
Magazine but it doesn't work.  Does anyone know of one that does?  My
e-mail address is klovejoy@u.washington.edu

------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 1995 15:37:08 -0500 (EST)
From: andrea ruth leed <aleed@indiana.edu>
Subject: Amazon dry goods?

I /know/ I'm going to get flamed for this (and justifiably), but does
anyone have the address and phone of Amazon Dry goods?  I had it in
three different places on my account, but they're not there anymore. 
neither is anything else, for that matter.  (Core Dumps are such nasty
things.) Please email me privately at aleed@indiana.edu if you have it
to hand.

Drea Leed
=============================
aleed@ezmail.ucs.indiana.edu

------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 1995 20:01:03 -0600 (MDT)
From: "Carol E. Newby" <ladybug@unm.edu>
Subject: Re: body forms

In my costume design courses last year our instructor had us use period
paper doll books as a source for figures.  We would trace them onto
tracing paper, then use a light box or well lit window to trace them
onto the drawing paper.  I also discovered that our local Kinkos could
photocopy my drawings onto a nice rag paper that was easy to paint.

Carol

On Sat, 1 Jul 1995, Terry A. Bach wrote:

> I was wondering if anybody out there could help me.  I will be designing for 
> two plays soon, and although my pattern making and sewing skills are 
> excellent, my drawing is terrible!  I need to present renderings to the 
> director.  I wondered if anybody knew of a book with body forms ( men and 
> ladies, plus- size ladies as well), that I could use as a base for my 
> sketches.  Any help would be greatly appreciated!
> Laura Bach
> bach@lava.net
> 
> 

 *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *
               "Unless you are the lead dog,  /\_/\
                   The view is always the same."       >     <
                                                      >  ^ ^  <
   source: bumper sticker         >(_o_)<
         U 

------------------------------
From: LarryKin@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 1995 22:30:44 -0400
Subject: costume technition

>
>COSTUME TECHNICIAN.  Center for Performing Arts, Sonoma State 
>University.  Part-time salary $13.20-$15.80/hour.  Cutter/draper.  
>Review will begin with resumes received by 7/12 and continue until 
>position is filled.  Send resume to:  Human Services, PO37, SSU, 1801 E. 
>Cotati Avenue, Rohnert Park, CA  94928.
 
from ann to larry to h-costume. 

------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 08:41:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: Judy Gerjuoy <jaelle@access.digex.net>
Subject: Re: Beadwork

DRESS ACCESSORIES, by Geoff Egan & Frances Pritchard, London HMSO,
Produced by the Musuem of London, 1991, ISBN 0-11-290444-0. Is a book
about medieval finds from excavations in London, 1150-1450.  It has a
chapter on beads.  It deals with what they were made of, and how they
were made.

The book isn't cheap - my copy is listed at 40 pounds.  I got it here in
the states from Poison Pen Press, 627 E. 8th Street, Brooklyn, NY 11218.
 

There are 3 other books (to date) in the series. TEXTILES & CLOTHING by
Elisabeth Crowfoot, Frances Pritchard & Kay Staniland, has a chapter on
sewing and tailoring techniques.  While the chapter does not address
beading per say, it does deal with sewing on buttons and trim, and
should 
be useful.

Jaelle
jaelle@access.digex.net

------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 13:34:25 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Katherine L. Rodman" <afn25136@freenet.ufl.edu>
Subject: Re: body forms

Carol:

The only problem with using this method is that you do not get very much
life in your drawings.  Your renderings will "sell" better to your
director if there is more movement (i.e. line variation and poses).
Terry, for your first designs, I think your director and your design
proffesor? would probably be much happier with free drawn figures than
with traced figures.

Carol, the only reason I suggest this is I got burned in a portfolio
review with a director who said he was tired of seeing the same old
poses over and over again.  Good Luck!

Katherine Rodman

------------------------------
Subject: Woad
Date: Tue, 04 Jul 1995 13:36:14 -0400
From: Zachary Kessin <zkessin@bedlham.com>

>I think the "blue paint" is supposed to be woad, derived from a plant also
>used for dying.  If the actors used the real stuff, they were "braver of
>heart" that we realize, because it was supposed to be particularly, uh...,
>"pungent".  One theory was that they wore it in hunting and in battle 
>because it covered the "scent" of fear. 

I have seen real woad. It does not smell that bad. There is a touch of
oder but nothing awfull. I dont think wearing it would overwelm you with
smell. 

--Zach
(No Idea if the Picts or anyone else ever *DID* wear it but it dosn't
smell that bad)

------------------------------
From: TheaG@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 13:48:44 -0400
Subject: Period Behavior

Sorry to be so behind on the discussion...

I seem to remember hearing about at least one etiquette manual written
in the 16th century...maybe aimed specifically at courtiers?  If you
know of a reprint of such a beast, please post or e-mail the reference. 
 I would prefer Italian or French manners (if I have a choice) but,
alas, need the text in English.

Thanks
Thea
(TheaG@aol.com)

------------------------------ End of Volume 335 -----------------------


