From: Gretchen Miller <grm+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Date: Wed,  9 Aug 1995 18:45:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: H-Costume Digest, Volume 360, 8/9/95

The Historic Costume List Digest, Volume 360, August 9, 1995

Send items for the list to h-costume@andrew.cmu.edu (or reply to this message).

Send subscription/deletion requests and inquiries to
h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu

Note: The list and the digest are going automated--this is the last
digest you will receive using the old format.  You'll receive several
digests tonight, and then I'm going to sign everyone up automagically to
the new list.  

Enjoy!

------------------------------
Topics:
Getting the chainmail info
Making patterns
Thanks!
ISO: Commercial pattern for academic gown
"Seeing Through Clothes" info

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: close@lunch.engr.sgi.com (Diane Barlow Close)
Subject: Re: getting the chainmail info...updated.
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 1995 07:39:58 -0700 (PDT)

Re: making chain mail info
> When this was discussed before on the fantasy list Diane said

Thanks for passing on that info, Alan!  I've moved the archives around
since that time, so the "get" command looks a bit different, and there
are a few more files you can add to that list.  Here's the updated info:

> Send e-mail to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com, the body of which is:
 
  get h-costume hcos-94/hcos.941031
  get h-costume hcos-94/hcos.941101
  get h-costume hcos-94/hcos.941109
  get h-costume hcos-94/hcos.941110
  get f-costume fcos-94/v01.n026
  get f-costume fcos-94/v01.n027
  get f-costume v02.n002
  get f-costume v02.n015
  get f-costume v02.n016
  get f-costume v02.n017
  end

> and majordomo will send you all these files.  You can edit them down to
> the chain mail specifics as you see fit!"

Since the fantasy costume's lists archives are open to anyone, you don't
have to be a member of the list in order to request and receive archived
issues.  Ditto with historic costume.
-- 
Diane Close
   close@lunch.engr.sgi.com
   I'm at lunch all day. :-)

------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 1995 9:41:16 -0500 (CDT)
From: Deb <BADDORF@badorf.fnal.gov>
Subject: RE: pattern making

Actually, it's not the scaling up which is hard  (you just get one of
those cardboard sewing surfaces (sold in any fabric store), which have
one inch grids marked on them ... then you copy square for square on
your tracing paper).  

The tough part is sizing it to fit any particular person. And, no, I
doubt that this can be automated.   (1)  No particular person is an
exact size, at least not for garments which are meant to fit quite
tightly   and (2)  the patterns in books are NOT all size 8.  They are
whatever size the original garment is.  And that surely must vary per
garment!

I measure the pattern pieces, after they are scaled up, and see how much
waist room they have.  Then I measure the model  and add enough room to
make it fit.   Ditto for all other areas -- bustline, etc.   Prefereably
one uses the proper slash & spread  and other flat-pattern making
techniques  (but I'll have to learn those some day!).  Then you make up
the garment in muslin and adjust AGAIN!   And
perhaps again.

>I then
>fit the muslin onto the person who will wear the finished garment. 
>(Obviously, this doesn't work very well for garments I'm making for my
>own use.)

Au contraire, I prefer to sew for myself and nobody else.  I am always
around to fit to,   and I know how much ease I require in a garment.    
           To each his (her) own!

Deb Baddorf

------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 1995 10:04:59 -0500 (CDT)
From: Deb <BADDORF@badorf.fnal.gov>
Subject: RE: back issues for chain mail

Actually, Diane has moved some of the back issues into sub-directories
just recently.  The correct commands would be:

Send e-mail to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com, the body of which is:

   get h-costume hcos-94/hcos.941031
   get h-costume hcos-94/hcos.941101
   get h-costume hcos-94/hcos.941109
   get h-costume hcos-94/hcos.941110
   get f-costume v01.n026
   get f-costume v01.n027
   end

and majordomo will send you all these files.  You can edit them down to
the chain mail specifics as you see fit!"

Deb Baddorf

------------------------------
From: Tudorldy@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 1995 12:03:10 -0400
Subject: Many Thanks

Learned friends,

Many thanks to each of you who have provided me with considerable food
for thought for the scope of my book on beginning late period clothing. 
There is actually a marked consensus on some matters, which to some
extent was news to me.  I'm glad I asked!  If anyone has any further
thoughts on this, please do drop me a line.  Again, my gratitude is
boundless.

In Service,
Elizabeth Blackdane
(Meagn E. Maguire -- who, at her first riding lesson (age 6) knew all
the parts of the horse, the tack, and the names of the gaits and
different breeds, because she had already been passionately studying the
subject for the previous year(!).  Is it my imagination, or  are a lot
of us historical
clothing types also dedicated horsewomen?)
TudorLdy@aol.com

------------------------------
Subject: Academic gown
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 1995 11:11:02 -0500 (CDT)
From: Shirley Matheis <smatheis@dordt.edu>

Can anyone tell me if there is a commercial pattern for an academic gown?
-- 

------------------------------
From: MELLYRN@ENH.NIST.GOV
Date: Thu, 03 Aug 1995 12:38:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: _Seeing Through Clothes_

Some folks wanted info on Anne Hollander's _Seeing Through Clothes_.

The Library of Congress lists 3 versions:
 the 1978 Viking Press, $25.00, probably hardback,
  ISBN 0670631744 ;
 the 1988 Penguin Books $14.95 paperback,
  ISBN 0140110844 ;
and the 1993 Berkeley, U. of Calif. Press version,
  ISBN 0520082311 .

In case your libraries will do an interlibrary loan with the LoC, their
LC call numbers are:

N8217.C63 H64 1978
N8217.C63 H64 1988 and
N8217.C63 H64 1993, though this last is not yet at the LoC.

FYI, telnet locis.loc.gov
gets you to the Library of Congress main menu.  Select item #1 first, as
some of the other selections will assume you know "browse" and "select"
and other commands; going to #1 assures you of a page of instructions!

Happy browsing!

---mellyrn

------------------------------ End of Volume 360-----------------------


