From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V3 #192 Reply-To: h-costume Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Wednesday, September 20 1995 Volume 3, Number 192 Compilation copyright (C) 1995 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: butted seams Re: 1950's Long Line Bra Past Patterns New patterns Desperately Seeking Katrinn Cheating (Was RE: Periodicity) Re: New patterns On Finding a Particular Fabric Store (fwd) new fabric source? New Patterns RE: Hi :) Re: new fabric source? Viking shoes web page Fabric sources buttondown collars query (of ) The Buccaneers Re: Fabric sources Late Victorian (circa 1880's) Frock Coat Pattern Wanted Fabric Questions ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 19 Sep 95 19:41 CDT From: vbetts@gower.net (Vicki Betts) Subject: butted seams I have a mid-nineteenth chemise which has butted seams on the sides, but they are selvidge to selvidge, medium weight cotton. Vicki Betts vbetts@gower.net vicki@lib.uttyl.edu ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 21:41:38 -0400 From: "Barbara Dominey" Subject: Re: 1950's Long Line Bra RE: 1950 Long line Bra Dee (100545.3105@compuserv.com) wrote: > Can anyone provide further information, perhaps from research, re-enactment > or from personal memory ? At last, I can make a contribution! Nearly seven years ago, I wore my mothers circa 1953 wedding gown for my own wedding. She (who never throws anything out) still had the convertable strapless bra she wore with it. The gown wouldn't fit me unless I wore the bra with it. The bra was an underwire style with vertical metal boning at the center back and front, sides, under the breasts and from the bottom of the shoulder blade to the waist. It had a hook and eye closure up the back, and the fabric was an unyielding cotton broadcloth. Truly a formidable garment! It compressed my waist two inches at least, gave me a classic "Barbie doll" shape and improved my posture tremendously. I remember it feeling restrictive through the rib cage for about a half hour, and it became more comfortable as the day wore on. I was very appreciative of the support it gave my back. At the time, I tried to buy a new bra of similar construction (assuming the original would be to fragile to wear--silly me). I was able to find a visual duplicate, but the boning was featherweight, and the fabric much lighter. It didn't compress the waist or ribcage the way the original did. Barbara Dominey bdominey@mindspring.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 23:37:12 -0500 From: Peter Lee Subject: Past Patterns New patterns Hello, > Sorry, I don't have the prices nor the phone number for Past Patterns handy > here at work. Past patterns phone #: 616-245-9465 I helped with the research for the hoop skirt pattern and the saque. I also went to a workshop on making the sack dress over a year ago. The pattern is very nice! Michelle Lee ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 02:11:37 -0400 From: kl94ag@badger.ac.BrockU.CA (Kathleen Leggat) Subject: Desperately Seeking Katrinn Sorry to all of the list for the personal letter. Katrinn, That new email address is messing up again, and I no longer have your husband's address. I've been off-line for a while due to computer problems, and need to get in touch with you about Investiture. Please write to me and give me your husband's address. Catriona ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 08:18:13 -0400 From: KenDawe@aol.com Subject: Cheating (Was RE: Periodicity) In a message dated 95-09-15 18:49:21 EDT, edwright@microsoft.com (Edward Wright) writes: > Many of the most recent advances in >technology, such as digital scanners, computers, and electronic sewing >machines, make it easier to do customized and one-of-a-kind items, FWIW, I had an acquaintence who was in a World War II re-enactment group. Thought it was a strange hobby for a career Army NCO, but what the heck... Even stranger to my way of thinking was that he "did" SS Mountain Light Infantry. "Geez, Will, couldn't you have been LESS Politically Correct...!?" Anyway, he once told me that somebody was turning out what was allegedly a recently discovered stock of WWII German uniforms, various camouflage patterns, which it turned out were meticulously computer printed and aged modern re-pros, which had had authentic proof makes computer-printed on them. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 09:11:48 -0400 From: Morghana@aol.com Subject: Re: New patterns In a message dated 95-09-20 03:53:14 EDT, Vicki writes: >I haven't seen this posted yet, so I thought that I would add it. Saundra >Altman at Past Patterns is introducing six new patterns, starting in October. >All but one are from the period of the American Civil War. What period was the one different one? ~Morghana ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 08:50:18 -0500 (CDT) From: Teresa Shannon Subject: On Finding a Particular Fabric Store (fwd) Just wanted to say Ms. Mahaffey did get my message and respond with the name of the store (below). However, the store has moved and will be moving again so you may want to wait a month and I can give you more stable numbers. I called them, and as Denise said they do manufactured recreations for Rev. War, CW and apparently anything else you can give them the information on and which the manufacture agrees to do. I believe they scan in designs of years gone by, work it into computers and then have the manufacturer weave or print the approximate stuff. They are not a fabric store per se, they do requests for orders. Sounds great, I have wonderful examples of some medieval cloth patterns. I hope none took the tone of my letter as in any way reflecting on Ms. Mahaffey, I was desperate to find the store, and she had to drop off the list and change jobs for real life responsibilities, so she couldn't get back to me. Everything worked out fine from my end. Seems the type of business that would interest everyone on this group. They don't do real gold/silver -sigh. Have to go to La Lame for it, and I'm always searching for overseas connections. Their current number is 716-685-0507 and fax 716-685-0048, the business owners mother answers the phone and is very understanding, patient and knowledgable. Thank you for your time. Teresa - ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: 19 Sep 95 18:05:24 EDT From: DENISE_MAHAFFEY@mhsmail.git.gulfaero.com To: tws@csd.uwm.edu Subject: On Finding a Particular Fabric Store Ms. Shannon: Please accept my apologies for not having the resources to get back to you with regard to your request. Your H-Costume post has reached me via a friend whom has been tracking their postings for items of interest. Imagine my suprise to find my name in a manner that certainly did not have a "favorable tone" to it. Until today I did not have Internet access in my new position. (Job change - hence the number disconnection) The information on the company you seek is as follows: Elegant Finery, Inc. 110 Mill Street Middleton, PA 17057 (717) 944-7961 In addition, I believe I told you at the time that they are not a "fabric store" per se. They deal in fabrics specifically for historical groups and can quite often be found at major SCA Events (such as Pennsic, Fools War, et cetera..) I last saw them at an event in Georgia in April. I would assume that they are still a viable company. It was my hope to meet and find people with whom to exchange ideas, methods and information on "period" costuming and garment construction. Denise Mahaffey Internet Mail Address: (available after 9/20/95) Denise_Mahaffey@mhsmail.gulfaero.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 9:17:07 -0500 (CDT) From: VICKI@lib.uttyl.edu Subject: new fabric source? I found the post on Elegant Finery very interesting. If you are able to see and handle examples of their work, would you let us know about the quality? Do they work with museums for reproduction textiles? Do they have any place where they sell bolt ends or scraps? You said that they can do CW era as well, and that they go to SCA events--did they mention whether or not they go to CW reenactments at all? There are so many 19th fabrics that are no longer produced--this could be exciting! And did they indicate a minimum order or a representative price range of something for comparative purposes? Thanks for the information, Vicki Betts vicki@lib.uttyl.edu vbetts@gower.net ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 9:02:35 -0500 (CDT) From: VICKI@lib.uttyl.edu Subject: New Patterns Oops! I sent variations of this message to both cw-reenactors and to h-costume,and I must have forgotten to get *all* of the information in both! :-( The non-ACW patterns covered 1830-1860--the separate pocket that ties around the waist and is accessible through a slit in the skirt, the corded petticoat which is good for earlier time periods as well as a work petticoat even into the 1860's, and something else.........I wish I had brought that illustration to work today. Vicki Betts vicki@lib.uttyl.edi ^edu vbetts@gower.net ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 9:14:52 -0500 (CDT) From: P_SHERYL@KCPL.LIB.MO.US Subject: RE: Hi :) >Can anyone out there suggest a book, prefarably still in print, where I >could find Irish costuming say about 1150-1350 Try _Dress in Ireland_ by Mairead Dunlevy. It's still in print and has been very useful to me. _Books in Print_ lists it as $59.95 from Holmes & Meier Publisher, copyright 1989. It's got some very good photographs and illustrations. HTH! Sheryl J. Nance Kansas City MO Public Library p_sheryl@kcpl.lib.mo.us ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 09:45:10 -0500 (CDT) From: Teresa Shannon Subject: Re: new fabric source? > I found the post on Elegant Finery very interesting. If you are able to see > and handle examples of their work, would you let us know about the quality? > Do they work with museums for reproduction textiles? Do they have any place > where they sell bolt ends or scraps? You said that they can do CW era as > well, and that they go to SCA events--did they mention whether or not they > go to CW reenactments at all? There are so many 19th fabrics that are no > longer produced--this could be exciting! And did they indicate a minimum > order or a representative price range of something for comparative purposes? > I'm sorry I didn't ask about anything but fourteenth century. I'm kind of too focused right now. Ms. Mahaffey bought a fourteenth century textile reproduction of 7 or 8 yards, I believe, but I don't know if she ordered it or bought what was left of someone elses. I know they aren't as expesive as La Lame's fabric with real gold and silver. Which I have bought at 75-125.00 per yard, depending on how much gold and silver are part of the pattern. So my guess is between 20-50.00 a yard, which is reasonable to me. Many years ago I would have blanched at that price, now its reasonable. Hmmm. I'm afraid I don't know much more, but will be calling them next week, I will ask if they have any scraps or samples they could send me before I give them a job to do. It is quite exciting. Teresa ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Sep 95 11:34:22 BST From: jennyb@pdd.3com.com Subject: Viking shoes web page I found a page which might interest people http://metro.turnpike.net/S/spoon/vikes/vikshoe.html It's got a guide to Viking shoes including stitching information & so forth Jennifer jennyb@pdd.3com.com ------------------------------ Date: 20 Sep 95 16:44:00 BST From: Mrs C S Yeldham Subject: Fabric sources I do know of a Swiss silk mill that will weave to order. The main problem, apart from a yardage cost of at least 50 UK pounds a yard, was that they needed a commitment of about 50 yards of any one pattern (minimum length). Is this the case with the company being quoted? I don't dare think this place would ship to the UK at a reasonable price! Caroline ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 13:58:56 -0400 From: lrp@westol.com Subject: buttondown collars query (of ) Allan Flusser claims that buttondown collars came to the United States from the UK during the 1920's. American students attending college/university in the UK bought English styles and brought them home. It would seem that the collars were probably first introduced immediately after the end of "The Great War for Civilization." I don't think the collars are earlier than 1919. L. Peters ------------------------------ Date: 20 Sep 95 10:18:56 -0700 From: "SNORTON.US.ORACLE.COM" Subject: The Buccaneers The September issue of Vogue has a small colour photo of the four young women in the cast of The Buccaneers on page 190. Lovely photo; I wish it was larger so we could see more detail. Here is the text: "Airing next month on PBS is Mobil Masterpiece Theatre's presentation of The Buccaneers, based on Edith Wharton's final, unfinished novel. The story concerns four nouveau riche American heiresses at the turn of the century off to England in search of aristocractic husbands. The cast is composed of old British hands and young American actresses, including Mia Sorvino. When the series aired last winter in England, its ratings went through the roof. But never mind the heartaches --- everyone flipped for the clothes and hair. Suddenly the chignon became the favorite Saturday-night hairstyle, and a push-up bra became every girl's best buddy." Sally Norton snorton@US.oracle.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 12:08:18 -0500 (CDT) From: Teresa Shannon Subject: Re: Fabric sources > I do know of a Swiss silk mill that will weave to order. The main problem, > apart from a yardage cost of at least 50 UK pounds a yard, was that they > needed a commitment of about 50 yards of any one pattern (minimum length). > Is this the case with the company being quoted? > > I don't dare think this place would ship to the UK at a reasonable price! > > Caroline > Please give me information on the silk mill. If I had a spare $5000.00 I would do it, of course I could go to Switzerland for that kind of money, and have a good time. If it is 50 yards it does get prohibitive. I would pick a well known brocade and ask if 4 other people would like to go in on it with me for 10 yard pieces. I will post when I get more information. Aren't there companies in the UK who do something similar, or who specialize in fabric recreations like this? Would love some information on British fabric stores, any who wholesale linen or wool, do ecclesiastical, or vinatge brocades. And information on bookstores who have a good stock of clothing books. Yes sir, sure would love ANY information that drifted my way on that topic. Sure would be nice. - -wink- -wink- Teresa ;-) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 15:02:41 -0400 (EDT) From: Gary Rumain Subject: Late Victorian (circa 1880's) Frock Coat Pattern Wanted Forgive me for resending this one. My server has been acting flakey lately. My wife is looking for a good pattern for a late Victorian (circa 1880's) Frock Coat. Can anyone recommend one? By good, I mean one that is not a pain to put together (some of them that we've seen turned out to be poorly designed and didn't work very well). Thanks in Advance, Gary Rumain sherlock@clark.net ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 15:04:58 -0400 From: Gaelscot@aol.com Subject: Fabric Questions I have only been on this list for a few months and I have enjoyed it immensely. Teresa's explanations of fabrics yesterday was wonderful--it's the kind of research I'd like to do myself but can't at the moment. I work at home and care for my 19th-month-old daughter. My "leisure" time is few and far between--I spend most of my daughter's nap time, as well as my evenings and weekends, working. My costume library is pretty basic, and going to a library with my little angel is practically impossible--she LOVES books and goes wild when she sees them, ripping them off shelves, etc. Same with book stores. Even ordering books to buy or from ILL can be traumatic. (She sounds horrible, but actually she's great almost any place else, even grocery stores.) I hope this won't be too repetitive, but can someone enlighten me about printed (rather than woven) cloth before, say, 1500? Was there any? Was it block printed? Screen printed? Stenciled? Teresa's message mentioned fabrics "powdered" with patterns of stars, etc. What was that? I am one of those dreaded SCA people. I have been an active member for more than 12 years and I am long past the stage where any sort of costume looks enchanting. For many people in this organization, authenticity (especially in such a remote time period, where commercial patterns aren't available for new enthusiasts) takes a while to catch on. Well, it's caught on with me and I am trying to catch up on garment construction of the 14th and 15th centuries. But so far I've confined myself to plain colors. Must I? And what about trim? Most of the paintings I've seen imply trim, but only sketch it in. Where can I find out more about what they usually used? I thank anyone in advance for a reply. Gail Finke/Myfanwy of Ceredigion gaelscot@aol.com ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V3 #192 ******************************* A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!