From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V3 #220 Reply-To: h-costume Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Wednesday, October 11 1995 Volume 3, Number 220 Compilation copyright (C) 1995 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: Costuming/Supply Store in LA area Re: Costuming/Supply Store in LA area Re: Knitting Re[2]: raiment's pattern catalog COSTUME: Knitting Re: Costuming/Supply Store in LA area Re: textile production Re: Dyeing silk :( 1800s baskets Re: Knitting Re: Knitting Re: Knitting 1793 purple beaver hat! Re: raiment's pattern catalog or amazon -- which to choose? Re: 1793 purple beaver hat! RE: corsets in pregnancy career questions:#2 Maternity corsets More to silk than meets the eye. . . Pattern Book ISBN Numbers ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 11 Oct 1995 14:23:49 -0700 From: Heather Meadows Subject: Costuming/Supply Store in LA area I'm planning on being in the LA area this weekend... I know Raiments is in pasadena .. are there any other amazing & wonderful stores I should check out while I am down in the area? :) - -Heather ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 11 Oct 1995 16:48:53 -0500 (CDT) From: Teresa Shannon Subject: Re: Costuming/Supply Store in LA area The Huntingdon, the J. Paul Getty Museums, and the Oriental Silk company, if you want to really spend money, have lunch or dinner at the Bel Aire, and tell me if it was good or really good. Teresa ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 11 Oct 1995 17:23:27 -0500 From: nielsen@boba.mayo.edu (Ann Nielsen) Subject: Re: Knitting Greetings! Alas, I'm at work and *all* my reference books (especially for knitting) are at home, but... One of the things I've seen knitted in the Middle Ages are bags. Little pouches with all kinds of designs knitted in. From what I've seen in the pictures, they're usually made of two colors of yarn (for example, white and dark blue), and have many levels --- each level having a different design. One design that springs to mind is of stags leaping (looking like they are springing) (sorry about the pun), facing each other. The knitting is very fine, and I've ordered some 0 needles so I can try it myself. I've also seen bags with heraldry stuff knitted into them. (It's driving me crazy, but I can't remember the name these knitted pouches were called.) Hope this gives you more ideas on where to look for knitted things! Ann Nielsen (Mistress Therica in the SCA) - -- ********************************************************* * Ann Nielsen --'--,--{@ * * nielsen.ann@mayo.edu 507-284-4880 * * SPPDG Mayo Foundation * * Rochester, MN 55905 * * ***** * * A child is a someone who can't understand why anyone * * would give away a perfectly good kitten. * ********************************************************* ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 11 Oct 95 15:42:14 PST From: Loren_Dearborn@casmail.calacademy.org (Loren Dearborn) Subject: Re[2]: raiment's pattern catalog At 12:31 PM 10/11/95, Kendra VanCleave wrote: > can someone tell me if the raiments pattern catalog is comparable > to the amazon drygoods catalog? meaning, if i have the amazon > drygoods catalog, should i bother getting the raiments one too? Good question. Should I get one or both? I only need patterns, so I'd just need the one Amazon drygoods catalog. Actually, I'd get the Raiments catalog if you're only going to get one. I bought both and while they seem to have many of the same patterns, in a price comparison with Amazon Raiments seemed to have significantly better prices for the same patterns. Also, if you ever want to buy any of the books/supplies you'll be set. Just my 2 cents, Loren Dearborn ldearborn@calacademy.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 11 Oct 1995 10:55:40 -0700 From: ccary@tiara (Christina Cary) Subject: COSTUME: Knitting On the topic of knitting again, and how widespread it was or wasn't--I am going to have to go home and dig out my history of knitting books (Bishop Rutt's and more). One of the books pointed out that knitted garments, being utilitarian and not "dressy" (for want of a better word) tended to be worn until they were worn out. The yarn was then salvaged and reused, if possible, or the garment was in tatters and discarded. Thus fewer examples exist now than of the more elaborate garments that people valued and saved. Museum collectors are also less interested in an old sweater than they are in an old court dress, say, so knitting is underrepresented in museum collections as well. The existence of fewer extant knitted garments does not necessarily mean that knitting was to any degree an uncommon or recent activity. A passionate knitter, Christina - -- My first name is: Christina My last name is: Cary Editor, Technical Publications E-mail address: ccary@sgi.com _______________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 11 Oct 1995 15:55:10 -0700 (PDT) From: Gwen Carnegi Subject: Re: Costuming/Supply Store in LA area Gosh- where to start! The Amber Company in the Valley (Middle eastern jewelry, amber). Michael Levines (fabric heaven) is downtown and conviniently located next to Bergers Beads (Mecca for findings) and Boheimian Crystal. Vechiarlli's(sp) carries professional scissors, pattern paper, dress forms , bulk snaps, etc. They are also downtown. The Getty is a must but try to contact the Doris Stein Inst. They are a part of the LA. Co. Musuem Assoc. (LACMA). If you call ahead, you can sometimes arrange to view pieces of the costume collection there. Gwyndolynn Anne the Obscure Gwyn Carnegie ------------------------------ Date: 11 Oct 1995 16:04:46 U From: "Carole Newson-Smith" Subject: Re: textile production Reply to: RE>textile production From: Wendy Robertson Does anyone know of any lists (or even web sites) that deal with textiles themselves (the various fibers, the means of preparation, weave structures, dyeing etc.). This seems to peripherally covered by this list, but I was wondering if there was anything more directly concerned with this. (My area of interest in Medieval, primarily early Middle Ages). Thanks. - ------- Wendy, I was in Netscape yesterday, looking at the Smithsonian museums home page, and it appears that the Cooper-Hewitt Museum on E 91st Street in Manhattan might be of some use for pre-1600s textiles, books and jewelry. Carole Newson-Smith ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 11 Oct 1995 17:36:43 -0500 From: deirdre@deeny.MV.COM (Deirdre) Subject: Re: Dyeing silk :( Gosh, I'm so inspired. I was actually going to RUN to the fabric store and buy some silk. But it's not off the bolt that's being ordered for me, so I guess I'll have to wait. :( At least I get to buy some fabric tomorrow. _Deirdre ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Oct 1995 11:01:49 +1000 (EST) From: Fiona Thorne Subject: 1800s baskets On an accessories note... Does anybody know of a good reference on baskets used in the 1800s. I think of women at markets or in the country, carrying around large baskets full of bits and pieces - food, sewing, clothes, whatever she needed to carry. Is this a 20th C misconception? Was there a particular style of basket used? I currently use a basket something like this: / \ ---- ________| |_______ - - \ / - - \ / - - \____________/ \---------------/ \ / Side views \ / \___________/ I usually just stick a large piece of fabric over the top of the contents (mainly to hide the wallet, car keys, cans of coke, sunblock, etc). I am thinking about making a patchwork throwover for a basket (for my SIL's Christmas present) - either hexagons or triangles. Then my brother can buy a basket for his wife and she will have a useful addition to her costume store. Context: The group I am with does not currently have a high level of accuracy. The majority of active members are teenagers who have been in the group less than 4 years. Input into the teenager's lives is the main focus of the group, not the historic qualities, although we are trying very hard to raise our standard. Not everything I do for myself is that accurate, but I do try and get the things I do for others right. I'm talking Australia, and sometimes we pretend to be pioneers in newly established areas, or heading for the goldfields (50s, 60s), other times we revert to being townies (which most of us are anyway). The period we cover is 1788-1901, so the effect is an ecletic mix of styles, although in NSW we seem to be settling into mostly 1830-1875. Am I on the right track or off the planet? BTW thanks for the advice on the 1860s skirt - I agree that most pioneer women had practicality in mind over fashion, but I often use first attempts at patterns (done in cotton) for rough clothes, and then plan to remake the garment in poser fabrics for our posh days. I will followup the frontier pattern. I received the Townsend catalog this week (big thanks Townsend if you are reading this) and I hope to visit Raiments in a couple of weeks. Fiona ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 11 Oct 1995 21:22:16 -0400 From: BBrisbane@aol.com Subject: Re: Knitting try to stay awake at the keyboard next time - I'm sorry I left so much out. I meant wool yarn; fingering weight is also referred to as baby yarn - finer than 'sport weight' and probably closest to the yarn your shawl is woven from. To attatch the fringe, hem the shawl, then decide the depth of fringe you want. If the depth is three inches, cut a piece of cardboard this length plus 1 inch, and wrap your yarn without tension around the cardboard. Cut the wraps free along one end, like you are making a tassel. Gather enough threads to make the thickness fringe wanted, and fold in half. Using a crochet hook, hook the folded end through the fabric, then hook the ends through the loop and pull the ends tight. If you cut the fringe longer, you can make a fancy knotted edging with fringe, too. I hope this clears up the confusion I caused. Brenda ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 11 Oct 1995 21:39:50 -0400 From: BBrisbane@aol.com Subject: Re: Knitting Sorry - Lascis carries knitting needles down to 6 aught (000000) Brenda ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 11 Oct 1995 21:36:59 -0400 From: BBrisbane@aol.com Subject: Re: Knitting about the knitted bags: a lady in the Middle has been making these, and I work at a similar gauge for silk stockings. the 0 needles are good for practice , but you will need to get down to 5 aught needles for the period gauge. Brenda/phillipia ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Oct 1995 11:36:26 +1000 (EST) From: Carolyn Fraser Subject: 1793 purple beaver hat! I just stumbled across a description of dress in 1793 that I found interesting, and thought I'd share. Its from the "reminiscences" of Lady Maria Callcott, which were dictated from her sickbed between 1836 and 1842. This particular passage refers to the experience of being packed off to school in London (from Liverpool) at the age of 8, in 1793. Upon arriving at a cousin's house in London in all her new clothes: "But oh! the mortification that awaited me there! The new frocks that I had been told in Liverpool were quite the fashion, my new great coat, and above all my purple beaver hat with a steel buckle in front, were all pronounced unfit to wear, and I was hurried off to a warehouse, where, in the course of a single day, I was completely metamorphosed. Why should I mention sleeves that just turned the elbow with robins to them! or the elegance of a dimity cloak with muslin trimmings! and a straw bonnet with green ribbons! which, however charming in the eyes of others, did by no means to me make up for the warmth of my good great coat and my beaver hat! This was my first, but by no means my last suffering in the cause of fashion, and created in me such a dislike of dress and finery as required years to overcome." (Gotch, Rosamund. 1937. Maria, Lady Callcott. London: John Murray p. 17) Carolyn Fraser Brisbane, Australia ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 11 Oct 1995 19:08:02 -0700 (PDT) From: close (Diane Barlow Close) Subject: Re: raiment's pattern catalog or amazon -- which to choose? Loren Dearborn wrote: > At 12:31 PM 10/11/95, Kendra VanCleave wrote: > > ... if i have the amazon > > drygoods catalog, should i bother getting the raiments one too? > > Actually, I'd get the Raiments catalog if you're only going > to get one. I agree with Loren. If you only have to get one, get Raiments. In my ordering experiences with both companies I found Raiments to have slightly better prices, slightly more pleasant service, they offer a coupon with their catalog (used to be $5.00 off a $50 order), and much faster delivery. Raiments often keep patterns in stock, which can make a HUGE difference in waiting time if you're ordering something like one of the more complicated Past Patterns items. The few companies that Amazon covers that Raiments does not, tend to be in the modern and dance eras. I've never had a bad experience with Amazon -- I've just had slightly better service from Raiments. Anyone know if Amazon has finally started reprinting the patterns from the Cabinet of Vintage Clothing that they bought up early last year? Those are supposed to be available via a separate catalog supplement to start. Since they're mostly stuff from 1900-1920 I definitely plan to take a closer look when they become available. - -- Diane Close close@lunch.engr.sgi.com I'm at lunch all day. :-) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Oct 1995 12:11:59 +1000 (EST) From: Fiona Thorne Subject: Re: 1793 purple beaver hat! Carolyn, Interesting reading. On Thu, 12 Oct 1995, Carolyn Fraser wrote: > > pronounced unfit to wear, and I was hurried off to a warehouse, where, in > the course of a single day, I was completely metamorphosed. Why should I > mention sleeves that just turned the elbow with robins to them! or the > elegance of a dimity cloak with muslin trimmings! and a straw bonnet with > green ribbons! which, however charming in the eyes of others, did by no > means to me make up for the warmth of my good great coat and my beaver I don't get the bit about the sleeves. Did they end just below the elbow? What do robins have to do with sleeves? Me thought they were a bird? Embroidered possibly? If so, where? Fiona ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 11 Oct 95 11:22:50 PDT From: Gregory Stapleton Subject: RE: corsets in pregnancy My wife is carrying our first child and I've been thinking a lot about this issue. Please forgive my ignornace here, but if I understand the advantages of a properly used and fitted corset, it seems to me that it would help, particularly in the later stages of pregnancy. As I understand it, it would provide a lot of support for the back and reduce back aches. Seems to me that you could design one around the expanding belly to not restrict it, but to support the back. I would appreciate any comments, particularly from those experienced with wearing a corset during pregnancy. I'm not trying to start anything here, but if I can find something that will make this any easier for my wife, I'll do what I can to make or obtain it. Gregory gregsta@microsoft.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 11 Oct 1995 22:05:05 -0500 (CDT) From: Kerri Potratz Subject: career questions:#2 I am a senior at USD and I am looking for good programs in costume constuction. I have no preference as to where I go, but I am _definitely_ more fabric inclined than watercolor inclined. (IOW I like to sew, not draw) Does anyone have any suggestions for schools? Thanks. Kerri Potratz / \/ \ *Kerri Potratz**University of South Dakota* / /\ \ *Lady Hrosvitha die Liedweberin < \/ > *The Proto-incipient Colligum of Svathy Sebestia \ /\ / *Kpotratz@sunfish.usd.edu \ \/ / \/ ==If I be waspish, best beware my sting!== Shrew, II.i ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 11 Oct 1995 23:49:09 EDT From: bglickman@eckert.acadcomp.monroecc.edu Subject: Maternity corsets Re Greg, Dee, etc.: I have a 1949-1953 OB/GYN Textbook which clearly shows in diagrams, etc. maternity corsetry, even differentiating month 4 & 5, etc, as baby protrudes more. The book stresses "uplift" rather than compression. There are also drawings and photos of maternity wear, including lingerie. Also what a well=stocked nursery should have on hand, etc. If you'd like photocopies, I'd be happy to work something out to cover the cost. Please email me directly and let me know what you're interested in and I'll figure out how many pages would be involved. I can send just the artwork or printed pages also, along w bibliographic info. Bon B) - -------------------------------------------------|=|=|-------- Bonnie Glickman =|=|= Bio. Dept.; Monroe Comm. Coll. |=|=| Rochester, NY 14623 (716) 292-2725 =|=|= email: bglickman@eckert.acadcomp.monroecc.edu |=|=| ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 11 Oct 1995 23:59:26 -0400 From: anderson@glen-net.ca (David G Anderson) Subject: More to silk than meets the eye. . . I loved Teresa Shannon's essay on the genesis of silk. But she miss'd the part where the guid silkwife goes to bed with the cocoons (or worms) laid carefully our on her ample breasts to induce them to hurry it up. (No doubt hubby'd get a cuff if he was too frisky THAT night). Anyhow, I wanted you to tell THAT part of the story. Pleeze . . . David G Anderson | Williamstown, ON, Canada | ------------------------------ Date: 12 Oct 95 00:44:40 EDT From: "Dawn T. Jacobson" <74647.1271@compuserve.com> Subject: Pattern Book ISBN Numbers For everyone interested in Jean Hunnisett's two very fine books, and wondering what the ISBN numbers are, they are: _Period Costume for Stage and Screen (Vol 1 - 1500-1800)_: ISBN 0-88734-610-3 _Period Costume for Stage and Screen (Vol 2 - 1800-1909)_: ISBN 0-88734-609-X I inadvertently left them off the initial postings regarding them. Sorry about that! 8-/ Dawn T. Jacobson 74647.1271@compuserve.com ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V3 #220 ******************************* A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!