From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V3 #224 Reply-To: h-costume Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Friday, October 13 1995 Volume 3, Number 224 Compilation copyright (C) 1995 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: Oscar Costume Nominations RE: historic Barbie 19th century patterns RE: Teresa's reply on Knitting Barbie Historical Black pearls The Scarlett Letter Re: The Scarlett Letter Re: 19th century patterns Re: Re[2]: raiment's pattern catalog Re: 1793 purple beaver hat! Spinning RE: 1793 purple beaver hat! RE: The Scarlett Letter Re: Barbie Historical RE: Barbie Historical Re: Spinning Re: career questions ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 13 Oct 1995 13:55:02 +1000 From: "GILLIAN RICHARDS (02) 716 3712" Subject: Oscar Costume Nominations Erin Wrote: > You poor thing! Speaking of which, does anyone know why King George's > costumes were not nominated for an Academy Award last year? I was in > Pennsylvania last year when it came out and I missed all the info from > behind the scenes. Are you Kidding? How could ANYTHING compare to the exquisite frock made of thongs made for Pricilla? And as for that GORGEOUS group of three frill-necked lizards - I've never seen Terence Stamp looking so sexy. We may be slow to see your productions, but our costumes are world-beaters. + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + | Gillian Richards - TAFE NSW - (02) 716 3712 (space for ASCII | | aka: gillian.richards@tafensw.edu.au picture when I | | "The Midnight Fox", "Mummy" find the time!) | + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + (who has been told by the Drag Queens that I don't wear enough make-up) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Oct 1995 22:00:49 -0700 From: Joan Broneske Subject: RE: historic Barbie Well then, this ought to really interest you: Lord Perry Historical and Specialized Fashion Doll Patterns 6041 Sanford Drive San Jose, CA 95123 408-281-0903 Fax: 408-281-0699 They carry the following patterns for your Barbies, etc. Petticoats Marie Antoinette 1776 Underthings Chateau D'Or Oh Susanna Duberri Hoops Guinevere Prairie Princess Tuileries Hoops Cleopatra Pocahontas More Petticoats Queen of Sheba Jazz Baby Dixie Dressing Nigerian Princess=09 Regency Hat Collection Zulu Princess Chateau Chapeau Bath Miss Versatile Victorians Versailles The Young Victoria Fountainebleu Katie Scarlett Prices run from $6.95 to $8.95 Joan Broneske - ---------- From: Andrea Harrison[SMTP:andreah@cpsnet.com] Sent: Thursday, October 12, 1995 4:49 PM To: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: historic Barbie Has anyone been to a toy store lately?!?!? I went to buy my niece her = first Barbie and couldn't believe my eyes! They now have medieval = Barbie and "Scarlett"Barbie and "Rhett" Ken along with Irish and Native = American and Chinese Barbie. I think I'm gonna start collecting her = again. The costumes aren't too off in authenticity either. COOL!!! Now = a reason to play with dolls again!!! Andrea andreah@cpsnet.com "There's too much to see waiting in front of me, I know that I just = can't go wrong." Jimmy Buffet ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Oct 1995 00:47:23 -0500 From: mjschues@students.wisc.edu (Melanie Jo Schuessler) Subject: 19th century patterns Greetings, fellow costume devotees... I can't recall whether this has been mentioned on the list. Apologies if this is a repetition. The State Historical Society of Wisconsin puts out a series of patterns which they call "Patterns of History." They are taken from garments in the society's collection. From the brochure: "Each pattern comes complete with a set of 'Period Notes' describing the fabric, colors, hair and hat styles, accessories, and fashion trends of the dress' era. In addition, directions are given for any required undergarments such as hoops and petticoats. In the tradition of the nineteenth century, these patterns provide the basic cut; use of varied fabric and trimming will produce the kind of costume desired" 1835 afternoon costume $10 1840 day dress $10 1857 promenade dress $10 1865 paletot jacket ensemble $10 1873 bustle [much like one in Norah Waugh's _Corsets and Crinolines_] $4.95 1876 centennial gown [day gown; no size 12] $10 1876 men's sack suit [42-44-46] $10 1881 avant-garde gown [discontinued, but possibly still available; no sizes 12 or 14] $7 1888 reception toilette $14.95 1893 visiting costume [no size 12] $10 1896 walking suit $18.95 I don't know anything about the kind of instructions included, unfortunately. From the brochure it seems that sizes are limited--"Women's dress sizes are available in 10, 12, or 14 unless noted otherwise." "For further information call 608-264-6428." [official disclaimer: they're not paying me anything; I have no connection with them; I just wanted to pass this along, etc.] Happy Costuming Melanie mjschues@students.wisc.edu ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Oct 95 09:56:08 TZ From: Edward Wright Subject: RE: Teresa's reply on Knitting | To start with, I know the English were | exporting large quantities of wool to Flanders in the medieval period etc, | but in what state was it exported - in the fleece or carded and spun? Wool was generally exported in the form of undyed cloth, which was frequently dyed in the Netherlands and reimported into England. This caused much consternation among English dyers, and in the 17th Century, James I banned the export of undyed cloths. This ban was a major disaster for the English wool industry, since the English dying industry lagged far behind the rest of Europe technologically and there was no market for English dyed cloth. Prior to this ban, wool was England's major expert -- really, its only major export. Afterwards, the English wool industry never really recovered. | I know Flanders had a big weaving and dying industry, was there also a lot of | spinning? Flanders and Holland tended to produce linen rather than wool, their climate and territory being more suited to growing flax than raising ship. The Netherlands were so closely associated with this product that one type of find imported linen became known as "Holland." In England, it was just the opposite. The English tried to compete in linen -- in Elizabeth's time, I believe, there laws passed required every owner of land above a certain size to set apart a portion for the growing of flax -- but never really succeeded. Mrs C S Yeldham ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Oct 1995 16:31:35 +1000 From: "GILLIAN RICHARDS (02) 716 3712" Subject: Barbie Historical Andrea Harrison wrote: > Has anyone been to a toy store lately?!?!? I went to buy my niece her > first Barbie and couldn't believe my eyes! They now have medieval > Barbie and "Scarlett"Barbie and "Rhett" Ken . . .(snip) Joan Broneske wrote: (snipped) >They carry the following patterns for your Barbies, etc. (scissors again) >Fountainebleu Katie Scarlett - ---------- At least you won't have to make a corset for her - she already has an 18" (natural?????) waist and an uplifted bust that any young Southern Belle would be proud of! Do they have an Oscar Wilde Ken to go with the gold-mesh-topped earringed Long Beach/San Francisco Ken from a couple of years ago? + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + | Gillian Richards - TAFE NSW - (02) 716 3712 (space for ASCII | | aka: gillian.richards@tafensw.edu.au picture when I | | "The Midnight Fox", "Mummy" find the time!) | + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Oct 1995 04:45:06 -0400 From: MonicaShen@aol.com Subject: Black pearls Conrad, From what I've seen, black pearls are rarer and more expensive that white pearls. I'm not in the jewelry trade, though, so there may be exceptions! Monica ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Oct 95 08:06:46 EDT From: andreah@cpsnet.com (Andrea Harrison) Subject: The Scarlett Letter I understand that the Scarlett Letter comes out today. Please let me know what y'all think of it! I live in a small town and we tend to be a little behind. If it's as good as the ads make seem, I'll drive into town to see it. Andrea andreah@cpsnet.com "We've got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark and we're wearing sunglasses. Hit it!" The Blues Brothers ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Oct 1995 08:18:59 -0400 (EDT) From: Staff - Michigan Health Promotion Clearinghouse Subject: Re: The Scarlett Letter > I understand that the Scarlett Letter comes out today. Please let me know what y'all think of it! > Andrea Well, if you want to see a movie version of Nathaniel Hawthorne's book, stay home. The entire first half is the torrid affair and other background leading up to the point where he started the book. If you're looking at the costumes, that may be a different story. I'm not qualified to judge. I'd like to hear from someone who does that period on that myself. Joyous M. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Oct 1995 07:30:59 -0500 (CDT) From: Elizabeth Coffey Subject: Re: 19th century patterns HI - I have used the Wisconsin Historical Society patterns one and off for several years. They are very good patterns, and I would rank them right after Past Patterns for 19th century wear. I have only a few minor complaints. First is the sizing, it is very limited and tents to runs small. Anyone using these patterns, please do a mock up in muslin first. The rib cage area always seemed to me to be a very tight fit compared to our modern (yet corseted) bodies. Their historical notes are good, but a bit dated. Their instructions are adequate. I have never had trouble understanding them. It seems like to me, and I may be wrong here, that the 1830's dress they did as a two part dress, (bodice and skirt), which was not the norm for 1830's day dresses. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Oct 1995 07:26:13 +0000 From: "Jennifer Kubenka" Subject: Re: Re[2]: raiment's pattern catalog On 12 Oct 95 at 19:04, Sarah E. Goodman wrote: > Another vote for going with Raiments if you get just one catalog. I > find them more likely to have what I want and get it to me when I > want it than Amazon, although some of this is timezone related. > > Also, Gary the Ook is on this list and you can yell at him if you > have a problem! (Don't hit me, Gary--no, No, NO!!!!) > Besides that, they are genuinely wonderful to deal with. I've had several orders with them (me, or my husband, to whom I give a list of books from the Raiments catalog and tell him I want them for Christmas...) and they have been courteous and prompt. On the occasion that something had to be backordered, they sent me both an email and a regular postal mail note informing me of the approximate time they expected to get the materials... I *like* dealing with that sort of supplier. Makes me want to go back to them again and again... Nah. I don't work for 'em. Jennifer D. Kubenka Series Authority/Monographs Cataloger Fondren Library Southern Methodist University Dallas, Texas ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Oct 1995 07:34:19 -0500 (EST) From: Betsy Perry Subject: Re: 1793 purple beaver hat! > > On Thu, 12 Oct 1995, Fiona Thorne wrote: > > On Thu, 12 Oct 1995, Carolyn Fraser wrote: > > > > > > mention sleeves that just turned the elbow with robins to them! or the > > > I don't get the bit about the sleeves. Did they end just below the elbow? > > What do robins have to do with sleeves? Me thought they were a bird? > > Embroidered possibly? If so, where? This is guesswork, nothing more, but I assumed "robins" were a respelling of "robings". "Robings" were the ruched trimmings on 18th-century gowns; I was assuming that the lady's sleeves had the same ruching as the center front. Can anybody refute me? Betsy ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Oct 1995 10:59:24 -0400 From: sunfire@muskoka.com (Stephen & Krista Fraser) Subject: Spinning Hi! I have a question regarding the history of spinning. Was spinning common, or even around in the 12th century? If so, were their wheels similar to the colonial type or were they totally different? The reason I ask is because my husband and I plan to open a medieval theme store in the spring, and while he is making his bows in the store for people to watch (yes, we will be dressed in period clothing), I'm wondering if it would be "proper" for me to be there with a spinning wheel or not. Your input would be appreciated, otherwise I'm going to end up just sweeping the floor and picking herbs all day! Krista. sunfire@muskoka.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Oct 1995 10:03:42 -0500 (CDT) From: Deb Subject: RE: 1793 purple beaver hat! > > > mention sleeves that just turned the elbow with robins to them! or the > > > I don't get the bit about the sleeves. Did they end just below the elbow? > > What do robins have to do with sleeves? Me thought they were a bird? > > Embroidered possibly? If so, where? ]This is guesswork, nothing more, but I assumed "robins" were a ]respelling of "robings". "Robings" were the ruched trimmings on ]18th-century gowns; I was assuming that the lady's sleeves had the ]same ruching as the center front. I'm not familiar with the word "robings" but it IS true that 1793 gowns had "sleeves that just turn the elbow", meaning they continue to cover the elbow, which for decency must be covered, but they only go an inch or so around the elbow. And, they usually have ruching. Either ruching which matches that down the front, or more likely a white gauze bunched up real tight into a 3-4" deep gathered cuff thingy to decorate the elbow. Deb Baddorf baddorf@fnal.gov ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Oct 1995 10:09:46 -0500 (CDT) From: Deb Subject: RE: The Scarlett Letter > I understand that the Scarlett Letter comes out today. Please let me know what y'all think of it! > Andrea As Joyous M. also replied, the movie contains many scenes that the book doesn't. [note: i have neither read the book, nor seen the movie. I've just read a review in Newsweek.] Newsweek also made a comment which is odd coming from a modern magazine, but rather telling: (paraphrased) The movie makes Hester into a 1990's woman. When you drop the concept of sin, there is then no shame and no repentance. She might as well just go with her feelings. Which presumably is not the way the book tells the story? (I really need to read that someday. It's on my shelf .... ) Deb Baddorf baddorf@fnal.gov ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Oct 95 08:31:38 PST From: Loren_Dearborn@casmail.calacademy.org (Loren Dearborn) Subject: Re: Barbie Historical Do they have an Oscar Wilde Ken to go with the gold-mesh-topped earringed Long Beach/San Francisco Ken from a couple of years ago? Heh! It would be fitting since I've heard that they are working on a bustle era Barbie (perhaps it's also out now, anyone seen it?) Loren Dearborn ldearborn@calacademy.org ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Oct 1995 9:56:57 -0500 (CDT) From: Deb Subject: RE: Barbie Historical >At least you won't have to make a corset for her - she already has an >18" (natural?????) waist and an uplifted bust that any young Southern >Belle would be proud of! Yeah, but there ain't no way you can get a proper Elizabethan corsetted shape out of a plastic Barbie!! The TV home shopping channel had the "Eliazbethan Queen" doll and gown on, and one of the first things I noticed was the curve in the front of the gown, where there should have been a straight line (a busk even). Deb Baddorf baddorf@fnal.gov ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Oct 1995 08:46:34 -0700 (PDT) From: Conrad Hodson Subject: Re: Spinning On Fri, 13 Oct 1995, Stephen & Krista Fraser wrote: > Hi! > > I have a question regarding the history of spinning. > > Was spinning common, or even around in the 12th century? If so, were their > wheels similar to the colonial type or were they totally different? > The reason I ask is because my husband and I plan to open a medieval theme > store in the spring, and while he is making his bows in the store for people > to watch (yes, we will be dressed in period clothing), I'm wondering if it > would be "proper" for me to be there with a spinning wheel or not. Your > input would be appreciated, otherwise I'm going to end up just sweeping the > floor and picking herbs all day! > > Krista. > > sunfire@muskoka.com > > Krista--do you know how to use a drop spindle? Far as I know spinning wheels weren't know west of India in that century. Understand they made it to Europe around the 14th Century. Conrad Hodson ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Oct 95 23:07:31 PDT From: ches@tristero.io.com Subject: Re: career questions Andrea: When I worked at UT I hooked up with the costuming department and found that as movies came into Austin to be made calls for costumers came to the University. You may want to check with your costuming dept. and with the Chamber of commerce in your city for movies being shot in your town or area. This will do several things for you, one is get you your SAG card, then contacts to other jobs you know networking. Good luck! - ------------------------------------- Ciao Ches E-mail: Ches@io.com This message was sent by Chameleon - ------------------------------------- ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V3 #224 ******************************* A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!