From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V3 #225 Reply-To: h-costume Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Friday, October 13 1995 Volume 3, Number 225 Compilation copyright (C) 1995 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: RE: Black pearls Admin: Article Posting Etiquette Suggestions... Re: Oscar Costume Nominations Historic Barbie request - computer advice Colored Baskets Costume Sale Re: Spinning Cavalier gowns Cavalier Gowns Re: Cavalier gowns Re: H-Costume Digest V3 #223 Re: Barbies... modern costume dolls (was Barbies) Re: raiment's pattern catalog Re: Spinning ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 12 Oct 95 22:10:57 PDT From: ches@tristero.io.com Subject: RE: Black pearls - ---------------Original Message--------------- Conrad, From what I've seen, black pearls are rarer and more expensive that white pearls. I'm not in the jewelry trade, though, so there may be exceptions! Monica - ----------End of Original Message---------- This is very true. When my black pearl was stolen the insurance company had a major caniption! They were only willing to pay 1000.00 for it, it was 10mm! When I mentined that the policy I had called for the option to replace the object instead of money they refused to replace the pearl. It was cheaper to pay out the max of my policy on jewlery. - ------------------------------------- Ciao Ches E-mail: Ches@io.com This message was sent by Chameleon - ------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Oct 1995 09:46:48 -0700 (PDT) From: close (Diane Barlow Close) Subject: Admin: Article Posting Etiquette Suggestions... Several list members have written to ask if I'll post my reminder on article wrapping and trimming netiquette. I see there are several users out there committing faux pas that make it very difficult to read or follow their posts. Here's how to make your posts useful to everyone on the list: 1. Trim the included text, especially "leftover" text at the bottom of an article. This helps IMMENSELY to make digests more readable. Please delete any unnecessary quoted text -- include only enough to make the meaning clear and remove the rest. Don't leave all that extra quoted stuff at the end of an artilce after you've made your point. Get rid of it. 2. Format your article to under 80 characters (78 preferable) wide! To read articles formatted to wide margins, many h-costume list members have to to some tricky and time-consuming maneuvers: * File the article as a separate document * Leave Internet - go to Word Processing * Open the document * Reset the margin to <80 chars * Cursor down the entire document to reset the lines to the new ruler. This can become very annoying when it turns out the document is nothing the reader is interested in, and would've been able to easily skip it if the article had been properly formatted in the first place! After doing one of these complicated reformatting maaneuvers, it then takes about another four steps to go back to mail reading. I'm not going to point any fingers -- I'd just like to ask you all collectively to look at your writing styles and eliminate the trouble spots so that everyone can enjoy your words! Thanks for this consideration. - -- Diane Close close@lunch.engr.sgi.com I'm at lunch all day. :-) ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Oct 1995 10:01:30 -0700 From: erin1@uclink4.berkeley.edu (Erin Harvey Moody) Subject: Re: Oscar Costume Nominations >Are you Kidding? How could ANYTHING compare to the exquisite frock made >of thongs made for Pricilla? And as for that GORGEOUS group of three >frill-necked lizards - I've never seen Terence Stamp looking so sexy. > >We may be slow to see your productions, but our costumes are >world-beaters. I didn't imply King George should have won the award, I think that Priscilla justly deserved it, but not to be nominated (and Maverick was!?!) was a slight. Erin ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Oct 1995 15:41:36 -500 From: "Carol Kocian" Subject: Historic Barbie Deb Baddorf wrote: > Yeah, but there ain't no way you can get a proper Elizabethan > corsetted shape out of a plastic Barbie!! Way! Though I've never tried this myself, I hear that if you heat the Barbie (possibly by dipping in hot water?) you can soften the plastic enough to press her into the right shape. My personal preference is porcelain dolls. One mold, called Coco, has a flattened bosom perfect for a corsetted look. I used her for 18thC, and she would probably work for Elizabethan. Isadora is advertised as being good for historic, but she's not. The body has a "corset" molded into it, but it stops under the breasts. The breasts are a natural shape with huge, erect nipples. I could only dress her in an Edwardian dress with a gathered, pouter pidgeon front. Both dolls stand about 15" tall. There are lots of porcalain molds available. They can be poured in any fleshtone (and wedgewood colors as well, though this is hard to find), and painted with any style of "makeup". Look for dollmakers at local doll shows. If anyone has a source of a mold or greenware (unfired, molded porcelain) of an early 19thC (pre-1860) doll, please let me know! In The Scarlet Letter - Watch for the shepherdess. She is Hilary Flower, hostess of a wonderful bed & breakfast in Lunenburg, Nova Scotia, Canada. She & her husband, Bill, have worked with several movies filmed in their area. They herd their sheep with Border Collies. When in Lunenburg, stay at the Lamb & Lobster B&B! -Carol Kocian ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Oct 1995 16:51:32 -0400 (EDT) From: RMITCHELL@washjeff.edu Subject: request - computer advice It's time! I've been lurking this list for quite some time for my wife, the costumer. She's been greatly enjoying the stuff I've brought home for her. Now she needs advice if there's anyone out there who can help. Her costume business (construction, rental, all accessories, extensive library) has gotten to the point where it's got to get computerized. How to do it? What experiences have you had? Programs and/or hardware to recommend for inventory, sales, whatever? Not a costume question as such - rather, a question for someone in the business end of the field. Replies should probably be off-line. Thanks! Lloyd Mitchell rmitchell@washjeff.edu (for Kathleen - KSM Costumes) ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Oct 1995 17:05:03 -0400 From: Carodec@aol.com Subject: Colored Baskets Earlier this week (forgive me - I deleted the original message) a question was raised about the correctness of colored baskets for late 18th / early 19th century use. While searching out a quince marmalade recipe, I happened on the following item from Hannah Glasse's The Art of Cookery Made Plain And Easy. I was looking at the 1796 revised version. The original version was published in 1745, and I regret that I do not know if it contained this receipt. How to make a prety Varnish to colour little Baskets, Bowls, or any Board where nothing hot is set on. Take either red, black, or white wax, which colour you want to make; to every two ounces of sealing-wax one ounce of spirit of wine, pound the wax fine, then sift it through a fine lawn sieve till you have made it extremely fine; put it into a large phial with the spirits of wine, shake it, and let it stand within the air of the fire forty-eight hours, shaking it often; then with a little brush rub your baskets all over with it; let it dry, and do it over a second time, and it makes them look very pretty. I haven't tried this receipt, and do not know how intense or glossy the colors might be, but it does suggest that some form of colored basket was used by the late eighteenth century. If anyone tries this, please post the results! Caroline in Pennsylvania Carodec@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Oct 1995 14:50:13 -0700 From: kondoa@ucs.orst.edu Subject: Costume Sale The Portland (Oregon) Opera Costume Shop is selling off their rental stock, including historicals on Sat. Oct. 14 from 10-6 at 1516 SW Alder ST, Portland OR. (I'm not affiliated with them, I was asked to spread the word on e-mail). Alison ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Oct 95 15:26:26 PST From: Kat@grendal.rain.com (June Russell) Subject: Re: Spinning :Was spinning common, or even around in the 12th century? If so, were their :wheels similar to the colonial type or were they totally different? :The reason I ask is because my husband and I plan to open a medieval theme :store in the spring, and while he is making his bows in the store for people :to watch (yes, we will be dressed in period clothing), I'm wondering if it :would be "proper" for me to be there with a spinning wheel or not. Your :input would be appreciated, otherwise I'm going to end up just sweeping the :floor and picking herbs all day! Spinning was common "that it is hardly mentioned in written records". What type of spinning was done depends on where you were. Europe didn't have any wheels until until quite late. However, India had mechanical spinning wheels (as opposed to drop spindles) starting somewhere between 500 and 100AD. In Europe, the primary method of spinning was done on the drop spindle. Even now, women seem to like to use these because they were so portable. (This would be the most likely type of spinning you would want to do.) Around the early 12th century the Great wheel was developed. It came to Britain in the 14th century. It was customarily done standing and walking. There are manuscript edge drawings of women spinning on these (and the wheel looks as big as the woman!) The first books I grabbed off the spinning section of my library seemed to be pretty good, but others may have even better ones. Encyclopedia of Handspinning by Mabel Ross (has a picture of a modern greatwheel and lots of details about various types of spinning, preparation of fibre, etc. Encyclopedia format.) A Batsford Book. ISBN 07134 4703 6 The Weaving, Spinning and Dyeing Book by Rachel Brown. (One of the easiest ones to find. Simple illustrations of techniques. Covers many aspects of cloth making, but not much on history) Alfred A. Knopf publisher. ISBN 0 394 71595 0.pbk Spinning Wheels, Spinners & Spinning by Patricia Baines (British book. Lots of information. Format makes digging out specific dates for "what's the earliest" difficult, as it is not set up in a time linear fashion.) No ISBN, but published by Robins & Russ Handweaver. I got my copy in Canada, but R&R is only about a 45 minute drive (in good traffic, not rush hour) from where I live. Go figure. I never saw it there when I've been there! I just called R&R, they carry it for $12.95. They are in McMinnville OR and their number is 503-472-5760. You might also want to look into weaving (loom or card weaving). That way you would have several things to do, besides sweeping and gathering herbs;) I hope this was helpful. Kat Kateryne of Hindscroft ( June Russell ) pacifier.com!grendal!kat kat@grendal.rain.com Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat! ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Oct 95 19:22:30 EDT From: andreah@cpsnet.com (Andrea Harrison) Subject: Cavalier gowns Does anyone have experience doing Charles 1 (1625-35 English) gowns? I'm going by Hill & Bucknell and having difficulties. This gown is for me if that helps. I'm working up a muslin mock-up of both the open gown with stomacher and virago sleeves and the later one with high waist and closed skirt. Can anyone offer any advice on either the gowns or better pattern books to go by?!?!?!? Andrea andreah@cpsnet.com "We've got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark and we're wearing sunglasses. Hit it!" The Blues Brothers ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Oct 1995 16:36:44 -0700 From: kondoa@ucs.orst.edu Subject: Cavalier Gowns I had very good luck with the "Henrietta Maria" type bodice pattern from the Jean Hunnisett book on "Womens Costume for Stage & Screen 1500-1800. I had to make several muslins to tweak the pattern to my measurements but the pieces were well drafted & fit together with no significant problems. Alison ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Oct 1995 17:05:22 -0700 From: erin1@uclink4.berkeley.edu (Erin Harvey Moody) Subject: Re: Cavalier gowns >Does anyone have experience doing Charles 1 (1625-35 English) gowns?Can >anyone offer any advice on either the gowns or better pattern books to go >by?!?!?!? >Andrea I agree with Alison, Hunisetts' patterns are superior than what is in "Evolution of Fashion". Also, since "Louis" heels have come back into vogue I went to one of those bridal shoe places and had a pair of low Louis heeled satin shoes dyed to match my gown (actually inexpensive). Then I made a large ribbon rosette (similar to the rosettes worn at the waist) and sewed a buckle-like filagree over it and attached it to the top of the shoe. Looked similar to the pictures and was comfortable. Erin ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Oct 1995 16:56:06 -0700 From: Susan Fatemi Subject: Re: H-Costume Digest V3 #223 Sorry to disagree, Sarah, but the etiquette book (including the Debutante's book, not exact title) say to ubutton full length gloves and roll-them up into the wrist (like tumors) for eating. I've never done this myself, needless to say. Now that others have admitted owning Barbies ... I bought the brunette one named Kira, you can get her with green eyes or light brown. I renamed her Pari, and made her a Sogdian Princess, and I'm makeing her an outfit out of my silk scraps. My daughter thinks I'm nuts. She's my muse. (ok, maybe I am nuts) Susan Fatemi Happy weekend, hope everyone survived Fri. 13th. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Oct 1995 18:13:43 -0700 (PDT) From: close (Diane Barlow Close) Subject: Re: Barbies... Susan Fatemi wrote: > Now that others have admitted owning Barbies ... I bought the brunette one > ...and I'm makeing her an outfit out of my silk scraps. I own the 1920's Barbie (of course!) and a plain 'ol model I use as a miniture "dressmaker's dummy" for testing out mock-ups of original designs. Of course she's way more "built" than I am :-), but seeing the mini-garments in 3-D on something with a head and arms and legs is a lot more helpful and far less time-consuming, I find, than doing a full-size mock-up in muslin. Barbie now has her own "harem" pants based on a 1920's movie still (pants have slits up the center front that overlap, and a deep yoke with chain-joined-coins design) and several wearable art "mix and match" pieced shirts. Others interested in historic costuming for Barbie should check out: http://deepthought.armory.com/~zenugirl/barbiesewing.html and "zenugirl's" other pages, including several pictures and the full details on the Lord Perry historic-costume-for-Barbie outfits. I haven't used the Lord Perry patterns myself, but they look moderately good and worth checking out. I did pick up a copy of White Birches "Fashion Doll Costumes" magazine, which contains 14 period costumes from the middle-ages to 1960, in varying degrees of accuracy and detail. Some of the patterns were surprisingly well done and quite adaptable. For the cost ($4.95 plus $1.50 s&h) it was worth it. Ordering details: House of White Birches 306 East Parr Road Berne, Indiana 46711 Phone: 219-589-8741 (ask for Customer Service) FAX: 219-589-8093 For you Royal wedding duplicators out there, White Birches also sells a magazine with two bridal gown patterns in it, one of which is a duplicate of Sarah Ferguson's gown and veil. - -- Diane Close close@lunch.engr.sgi.com I'm at lunch all day. :-) ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Oct 1995 19:05:14 -0700 From: knowles@netcom.com (Sheryl Knowles) Subject: modern costume dolls (was Barbies) For mini-dressmakers dummy, I find the Princess Leia and Luke Skywalker dolls that came out right after the first movie was originally released to be a nice shape. They're essentially Ken and Barbie with somewhat more natural figures (Leia is a bit bigger than Barbie in the waist line and less "chesty") and slightly more natural faces. My Leia is currently in early Elizabethan. Back to lurker-mode. ---Sheryl Knowles ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Oct 1995 22:29:24 -0400 From: Mazelle@aol.com Subject: Re: raiment's pattern catalog While Raiment's patterns are cheaper, their books are not. Be careful! In Amazon's "Queen's Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlocked" is $130.00. In Raiments, it sells for $175.00. Mazelle Lady Alysia ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Oct 1995 20:43:40 -0700 (PDT) From: Heather Rose Jones Subject: Re: Spinning On Fri, 13 Oct 1995, Stephen & Krista Fraser wrote: > Was spinning common, or even around in the 12th century? Well, of course it was! We have direct material evidence of spinning (both thread and spindle whorls) from as far back as the Bronze Age. > If so, were their > wheels similar to the colonial type or were they totally different? The more important question is, did they use spinning wheels (as opposed to drop spindles) in the 12th century. The only reference I have that addresses this question specifically is a completely referenceless timeline entitled "Events in Textile History" appearing in a booklet called "Reprints of Bette Hochberg's Textile Articles". Under the date 1257 she notes "Spindle wheel reaches as far west as Persia". (By "spindle wheel" I would guess that she means the simple wool-wheel type with no flyer.) Under the date 1480 she notes "First flyer and bobbin mechanism shown on hand-turned spinning wheel" and in fact, elsewhere in the booklet is an article showing a reproduction of the said illustration. On the basis of this information, I would say that if you are portraying 12th century Europe, then a drop spindle is the most authentic say to go. > The reason I ask is because my husband and I plan to open a medieval theme > store in the spring, and while he is making his bows in the store for people > to watch (yes, we will be dressed in period clothing), I'm wondering if it > would be "proper" for me to be there with a spinning wheel or not. Your > input would be appreciated, otherwise I'm going to end up just sweeping the > floor and picking herbs all day! The convenient thing about a drop spindle is that -- like the medieval women we see in art of the period -- you can wander around with a distaff of wool or flax tucked in your belt, spinning in odd moments, and then tucking the spindle away quickly and easily when you need to deal with customers or whatever. Heather Rose Jones ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V3 #225 ******************************* A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!