From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V3 #229 Reply-To: h-costume Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Tuesday, October 17 1995 Volume 3, Number 229 Compilation copyright (C) 1995 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: Is 'cotehardie' French? Re: Is 'cotehardie' French? Re: Is 'cotehardie' French? Re: watches top-stiching Re: leather smells RE: top-stiching Microwave Pleating RE: top stitching and stabstitching Re: top-stiching Useful books Dying Silk More on Straw Embroidery. Re: leather smells Adrian display in Los Angeles. re: French Cotehardies Patterns RE: purple beaver hat. Re: More on Straw Embroidery. Re: Buccaneers ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 16 Oct 1995 13:42:53 -0400 (EDT) From: Annikki Weston Subject: Is 'cotehardie' French? This might seem an odd question, but does anyone out there know if the term 'cotehardie' is French? I've just come out of the library, trying to find whether or not it is definately French, but without success. It - -sounds- French to me, and I always thought it was a word from French. I'm asking this because my French professor has asked us to bring in an object to class that says something about ourselves. We're to tell the class, in French of course, what the object is. Nice way to expand vocabulary in a beginning language class, I think. Anyways, I thought wearing a cotehardie to class would be interesting and different, to represent my involvement in the SCA. Besides, I need garb on after the class is done. Now, I know that a dress is 'une robe', but I'd like to give the name of the garment, too, if it is indeed French. Thank you! Nikki Weston weston@tardis.svsu.edu ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Oct 1995 13:26:12 -0500 (EST) From: Drea Leed Subject: Re: Is 'cotehardie' French? To the best of my knowledge, the word is french for "narrow dress," or something of the sort. Cote was the word for generic tunic/robe/dress (help me out here, all you gramatically correct folk) and hardie meant "narrow," or thin. Drea Leed ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Oct 1995 13:53:04 -0500 (CDT) From: Teresa Shannon Subject: Re: Is 'cotehardie' French? It is french, but that doesn't mean it isn't someone else's term the french adopted and modified. Check the OED for the origin of the word. One term I know is french is bliaut. Do you do 12th century? Teresa, 14thc. English ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Oct 1995 13:47:27 -0700 (PDT) From: Pat Kight Subject: Re: watches On Mon, 16 Oct 1995, Andrea Harrison asked: > Can anyone tell me when women began to wear either pocket or wristwatches? > Andrea > According to "The What, Where and When of Theater Props" by Thurston James (Betterway Books, Cincinnati, Ohio, 1992; ISBN 1-55870-257-1) the mainspring (which makes watches possible) was invented in 1500 by German locksmith Peter Henlein (which makes the references to pocket watches in the 1100s seem implausible; could it be they were referring to pocket sundials, which did in fact exist?) James adds that the pocket watch became generally available in Europe in the early 1600s; that European noble-women were carrying watches on their chatelaines in the 1600s to late 1700s; that ladies began to wear miniaturized watches as brooches around 1700. The wrist-watch, according to James, became popular for both men and women around 1910. (Although designed as a reference for theater prop-makers, Thurston James' book would be an excellent reference for re-enactors and others interested in knowing about the "things" people used, from furniture to eating utensils. He includes lots of simple line-drawings. Pat Kight delurking theater person kightp@peak.org ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Oct 95 17:32:16 EDT From: andreah@cpsnet.com (Andrea Harrison) Subject: top-stiching Is top-stitching a purly modern technique? Some things just look unfinished without it. Andrea andreah@cpsnet.com "We've got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark and we're wearing sunglasses. Hit it!" The Blues Brothers ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Oct 1995 17:27:42 -0400 (EDT) From: TC Carstensen Subject: Re: leather smells There is a product called Nature's Miracle that does a good job of removing urine smells. It is an enzyme that breaks down the urine instead of just covering it up with a stronger smell. It takes a few weeks to a few months to completely eradicate the smell, but it works. I don't know how safe it is to use on leather, but I've used it on my wood floors without any problems. You should be able to get it at most pet stores. Good luck! TC Carstensen ***** tc0@ganet.net ***** http://www.ganet.net/~tc0/ ***** I don't need to do drugs - my job is already like a bad acid trip. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Oct 1995 16:57:32 -0500 (CDT) From: Deb Subject: RE: top-stiching I can't speak for other time periods, but: Hand sewn top-stitching seems to have existed in the 1770's and thereabouts. The Rural Pennsylvania book on everyday work garments has closeups & descriptions, and mentions topstitching. Each stitch covers two (got that? 2!) of the fabric threads. You have to really get _small_ to match original hand sewing. It was done with a back stitch, as I recall, so that the top stitches were end to end (rather like a sewing machine produces) and the bottom stitches were overlapped. Needless to say, my hand sewing does NOT correctly match the tiny-ness of original stitches. Deb Baddorf baddorf@fnal.gov ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Oct 1995 18:26:23 -500 From: "Carol Kocian" Subject: Microwave Pleating > Works best on silk or wool; cotton won't hold the pleat permanently. > Sythetics are possible to pleat, but test a swatch so you don't melt it in > the microwave! I first heard this technique referring to synthetics. You don't have to wet them. Instead of the microwave, steam the twisted fabric in a colandar in a pot of water. Afterward, the amount of crinkle can be controlled by ironing the final product. For Roman wear, I pleat my linen stolae (dresses) in a similar way: After washing & spinning to damp-dry, I twist the fabric & let it dry that way. I have to make sure I dry them in a dry place so they don't stay damp and mildew! (I tend to ignore them until I need to wear them again.) The twisting technique will also simulate Fortuny pleats. -Carol ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Oct 1995 17:37:43 -0500 (CDT) From: Deb Subject: RE: top stitching and stabstitching (intended for whole list, not just me) Date: Mon, 16 Oct 95 15:26:09 PST > From: "Gail DeCamp" To: Deb Subject: top stitching and stabstitching Speaking of topstitching, several of the garments profiled in the earliest Janet Arnold book mention stabstitching. What is stabstitching? When I did the waistband on a pair of venetians (a doubled layer of wool, a doubled layer of interfacing), I stitched it together invisibly (not a running stitch), and it made the disparate layers of waistband act as a coherent whole. I assumed that this would simulate stabstitching. The layers felt "firm", like they weren't going anywhere and like they'd hold up through a season (and preferably many seasons) of wearing them. Also---I like topstitching because it tends to make garment edges "firmer", but I think we concluded before that it wasn't common until the sewing machine made it easy (well, easier)? Gail DeCamp decampg@ngc.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Oct 1995 18:45:44 -0700 (PDT) From: Heather Rose Jones Subject: Re: top-stiching On Mon, 16 Oct 1995, Andrea Harrison wrote: > Is top-stitching a purly modern technique? Some things just look unfinished without it. > Andrea The Museum of London clothing book (we're really going to have to come up with a standard abbreviation for that) notes the use of topstitching to flatten the seams in hose and on narrow facings on neck edges. Heather Rose Jones ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Oct 1995 22:31:39 -0400 From: Christy546@aol.com Subject: Useful books I would like to reccomend a book to the list that I have found helpful. I don't remember seeing it listed here, but if it has been, I'll ask your pardon for being repetitive. The Whole Costumer's Catalogue (11th Edition) K. Dick (Editor) CBTB Press Box 207 Main Street Beallsville, Pa 15313-0207 (412) 632-3242 Compuserve # : 71620,2247 They have lists of 826 companies across the US that are helpful to costumers. The companies are alphabetically listed by Title and cross referenced by Item and Geographic Area. Along with the normal Name, address, phone number stuff, they also include a Commentary that includes very helpful information about the company's products. For those of you doing 19th century costuming, I found a useful series at a used book store the other day. There are several books in the series (I bought all they had). They are A Pictorial Archive From Nineteenth Century Sources. They are Copyright-free illustrations taken from magazines and such. All of the pictures are woodcuts and there is really no documentation to go with them except a general overview in the front of the book. They are from Dover Publications, Inc. New York. I got the 19th century series that has separate books for men, women, children, music, food, and Victorian stencils. The cover of my book also lists books that cover the Renaissance, Silhouettes, Trades, Folk Art Motifs of Early Pennsylvania, and lots more. The books I got show people at home, work, play, and religious and mythological figures of the time. Since these are pictures that were current at the time of the 19th century, you get a feel for what they thought was important enough to spend hours carving it into wood to share with their world. Anyway, good stuff if you can find them. Christy ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Oct 1995 22:31:51 -0400 From: Christy546@aol.com Subject: Dying Silk In regards to dying silk (or just about anything else), the best place I have found for dye of all kinds is Dharma Trading Co. They have a large catalog, about 112 pages, available free. They are good about answering "how to" questions. I called one time about dying straw and they were able to help. They also carry some silks and cottons for dying. They even have scenery muslin 9 feet wide. I have no connection to them. I just like them. Dharma Trading Co. P.O. Box 150916 San Raphael, Ca 94915 Hours 8-5 mon - fri Phone (415) 456-7657 in Ca. (800) 542-5227 Outside Ca. Christy ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Oct 1995 22:33:03 -0400 From: Christy546@aol.com Subject: More on Straw Embroidery. I am still hunting more information on Straw Embroidery. Sarah was kind enough to search the RILA database and came up with this listing: Murray, Anne Wood. Straw embroidery on costume, Waffen- und Kost|mkunde XX/2 (1978). 95-106 Year of publication 1978 Format 11 illustrations Language of text English I have been unable to find this magazine and article. If anyone out there can find the information, I would be most pleased to compensate someone for their time and trouble to send it to me. (Drop me an E-mail for my Snail Mail Address) I am unable to find a copy of Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlocked in the nearby area and would appreciate it if someone with that source would also be willing to help me. Last, but not least, I have a short article on the Straw Embroidery, but of course it's in German. (Which, of course I do not read.) If anyone would like the challege of translating it, I would be most happy to send them a copy. Thank you all for your help!! I have learned so many wonderful and helpful things on this list. I am pleased to be a part of it! Christy ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Oct 1995 22:54:43 -0400 From: margritt@mindspring.com (Margritte) Subject: Re: leather smells At 9:52 PM 10/15/95, ches@tristero.io.com wrote: >Ok I got one....I went to a goodwill and found the most georgeous pair of >bootlets. >Problem: Kitty kat went on them. How do you get THAT smell out?! I tried >saddle soap >and it did not work. I do not know when said cat went on them, I bought >them as is. You might want to try sprinkling baking soda in them and letting them sit for a while. There's also a product called Neutra Air, available in powdered form, specifically for removing pet odors. It should be available in most grocery or drug stores. I've never tried it on leather, but it does work well for carpets. Good luck! - -Margritte (owner of 9 cats...) - ------------------------------------------------------------ Gryphon's Moon - Request our free catalog of Celtic jewelry. email margritt@mindspring.com or check out our web page at http://www.mindspring.com/~maclain/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Oct 1995 21:53:48 -0700 (PDT) From: close (Diane Barlow Close) Subject: Adrian display in Los Angeles. The Los Angeles County Museum of Art is havine a show of the "Couture Designs of Gilbert Adrian" until January 1996. This is a show that I would personally kill to see as I'm a huge Adrian fan! Anyone interested in 1930's and 40's Hollywood film costumes should find this show fascinating. I don't know if I'll have the good fortune to do so, but I highly recommend it for anyone in the L.A. area. If anyone from the list does go, please review the show for the list! The museum is located at 5905 Wilshire Blvd, Los Angeles. - -- Diane Close close@lunch.engr.sgi.com I'm at lunch all day. :-) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Oct 1995 15:36:40 +0200 From: M.DEVOGEL@student.anu.edu.au (Miesje de Vogel) Subject: re: French Cotehardies Yay, Finally something I can lend a hand on. Cote hardie is a French term, hardi meaning the rough equivalent of bonny/ healthy in a good way type of thing rather than strong or whatever. The English adopted the term from the French when they adopted the dress style - not surprising given the French influence on the court of the time. It is different to a robe in that the Robe usually post-dates the Cotehardie (often also known as the V-necked gown, or sometimes regionally a houppeland - these are also two different styles). And neither of these are really to be confused with a bliaut... Miesje (Can give you more info if wanted...) ___________ "Don't ask me, I'm only the Seneschal! ______________ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Oct 1995 00:36:56 -0500 From: lpenrod@wichita.fn.net (Samantha S. Bruhn) Subject: Patterns I teach hearing impaired at the elementary level. Since they are very visual I am interested in medieval costume patterns to help get this subject matter across. I would appreciate any pattern catalogs or information on how to obtain medieval patterns you can send. I would gladly pay for the catalog. Please send to :Samantha S. Bruhn 10501 W. University Ct. Wichita, KS. 67209 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Oct 95 20:06:01 PST From: Kat@grendal.rain.com (June Russell) Subject: RE: purple beaver hat. Deb wrote: :However, the felting process involved mercury, and drove hatters :insanse. Hence "mad as a hatter" and Alice In Wonderland's :"Mad Hatter". There is another way of felting beaver: with a tuning fork. I don't know which frequency does this, but I read about that (and the mercury method) years ago. Kat Kateryne of Hindscroft ( June Russell ) pacifier.com!grendal!kat kat@grendal.rain.com Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat! ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Oct 1995 13:26:17 EST From: "laura yungblut" Subject: Re: More on Straw Embroidery. > I am unable to find a copy of Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlocked in the nearby > area and would appreciate it if someone with that source would also be > willing to help me. > > Christy Christy -- I have a copy (I'm the one who sent you the original reference). If you like -- and you send me your snail-mail address -- I can send you photocopies of the relevant pages. Good luck! Laura Yungblut (SCA Rosamund Beauvisage, OL) yungblut@checkov.hm.udayton.edu ********************************************************************** The hottest places in hell are reserved for those who, in a period of moral crisis, maintain their neutrality. Nemo me impune lacessit. Veni, vidi, visa. Get a room. Barney is the Antichrist. Miao. ********************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Oct 95 10:43:28 -0400 From: felicia m ciaudelli Subject: Re: Buccaneers In reply to the mail from ... - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- >Date: Wed, 11 Oct 1995 12:22:46 -0700 >To: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com >From: erin1@uclink4.berkeley.edu (Erin Harvey Moody) >Subject: Buccaneers > >Did anyone notice the sites for the homes? The Duke's home was obviously >Castle Howard. The other estate looked like the same one used in "The >Ruling Class". Can someone from the English side of this list respond? I >didn't catch the names in the credits. I know I'm rather late with this, but I'd also be interested in knowing more about the sites - they were just gorgeous!! > >After last night's episode, my local PBS station ran a tribute to Jeremy >Brett, I hadn't known that he just died! His wonderful period films (and >Sherlock Holmes) from BBC will be missed by me! I recently heard of Jeremy Brett's death, myself - I can't believe it!! (pull- ing out my black armband, being a fan). When did he die? And what was the cause? Thanks in advance, Felicia - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- i000347 sends (felecia ciaudeli)... ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V3 #229 ******************************* A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!