From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V3 #241 Reply-To: h-costume Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Wednesday, November 1 1995 Volume 3, Number 241 Compilation copyright (C) 1995 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: Re: infants costumes Re[2]: tudor/elizabethan torso? Bound Buttonholes Re: Interesting costume accessory 19th Century Footwear Dying synthetic hair piece New Web Page rose beads Re: Dying synthetic hair piece Re: Dying synthetic hair piece More hair Re: Dying synthetic hair piece Wigs 1660-1680 1906 Children/sash/corset RE: Wigs 1660-1680 Turn of the Century Swedish Dragoon Uniforms Re: infants costumes Rose Beads ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 10:09:14 -0600 (CST) From: Gwyndlyn J Ferguson Subject: Re: infants costumes On Mon, 30 Oct 1995, Stephen & Krista Fraser wrote: > > Any suggestions for an 8 month old boy?? I'm just not certain as to what > little boys wore in 12th Century England. He's not walking yet, but soon > will be. The suggestions I posted based on my alterations of a "New Look" pattern and a basic T-tuinc pattern were used for a six-month old boy very easily. Medieval boys wore what looks distressingly like a dress to modern fathers. Look through some art history books as well as costume history books for examples. Try a knee length t-tunic over sturdy pants for crawling children. I use a pants pattern from a basic layette pattern -- I just use appropriate fabrics and I use casings at the ankles instead of knit binding. I freely admit that with babies and children I only strive for an _appearance_ of authenticity. I do use elastic instead of drawstrings, and snaps where they don't show. I also use washable fabrics! Remember that Medieval children always had their heads covered! For 12th century boys try a plain, unadorned coif -- they're worn by adults too. Gwyn *Gwyn Ferguson***Western Illinois University *SCA: Lady Gwyndlyn Caer Vyrddin***Lochmorrow-Midrealm *Internet: mugjf@bgu.edu ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Oct 95 08:53:27 PST From: Stacey_Weinberger@smtp.wadsworth.com Subject: Re[2]: tudor/elizabethan torso? A good, simple book that illustrates how an Elizabethan corset should fit the modern figure (as well as constructing one) is "Elizabethan Costuming" by Carolyn Savoy and Janet Arnold. I know it is available through Lacis in Berkeley, and they also do mail order: (510) 843-7178. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 24 Oct 1995 13:52:28 -500 From: "Carol Kocian" Subject: Bound Buttonholes Now that we've figured out eyelets.... I'm looking for more information on the use of bound buttonholes. These are buttonholes that use a piece of fabric to make lips, so they're small versions of a welt pocket. I like making buttonholes this way, because it's faster than hand sewing them and looks neater that machine buttonholes. Unfortunately, I don't know if bound buttonholes were used before the sewing machine was in use! (I'm talking chronologically. A sewing machine is not necessary to make a bound buttonhole.) I would think they were used on tailored menswear of the 19thC & 20thC. I don't have any evidence if this is true & when it began. The Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York has some of the Duke of Windsor's suits from the 1930's. (I think I have the name right - the man who abdicated the throne to marry Wallis Simpson) Those suits have stitched buttonholes. (I don't recall if they were done by machine or by hand - I was looking for bound buttonholes!) I do remember seeing them on women's suits & coats of the 1930's through 1950's. I was taught that a bound buttonhole was a nicer technique in a tailoring class in 1982. (All women in the class) If it's a nicer technique, why wouldn't the Duke have them? Are they used primarily for heavy coats? While we're at it, any information on welt pockets? Thanks! -Carol Kocian ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 13:45:36 -0500 From: Wintreborn@aol.com Subject: Re: Interesting costume accessory My wife and I recently returned from a vacation in England. One of our wanderings took us to Stratford-upon-Avon and the home of William Shakespear. We saw a nifty variation on a walker, located in the kitchen. It was a pole from floor to ceiling with pins in the top and bottom which allowed it to swivel and it also had a "yoke" to hold a toddler. The use of this contraption was to support the toddler by the chest and allow him/her to walk in circles. This kept the child under the watchful eye of the mother, but kept it away from the hearth. At least this is how the tour volunteer described it. Chris ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 14:39:28 -0800 From: Joan Broneske Subject: 19th Century Footwear I just had to rush home and let everyone know that I was in Payless = Shoes, and I found footwear for all!! I found "Granny Boots" for me, my 7-year-old son (they may have been = girls, but they were perfect) and my 1-year-old son. His definitely = were girls, but they were perfect also. And the best part was they were = very reasonably priced: Mine were $10.99, my oldest's were $9.99 and the baby's were the most = expensive at $14.99. I just joined the Old Sacramento Living History group and they boys and = I are on our way to being "Victorian"! Joan Broneske unicorn@calweb.com http://www.calweb.com/~unicorn/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 14:47:08 -0800 From: Joan Broneske Subject: Dying synthetic hair piece This may be slightly off topic, but it is related. I have a hair piece, that is ringlets. I believe it is snythetic or = Kankelon or something like that. It is a medium-dark brown color and I = would like to make it red, since I have been wearing my own hair red. = Does anyone know of a way that this could be dyed? I don't think = regular hair dye will work, because the synthetic hair fibers won't = absorb the color, but I was wondering if there is some other way of = accomplishing this. If not, I guess I'll just have to try to find = another one in the right color. Thanks!! Joan Broneske unicorn@calweb.com http://www.calweb.com/~unicorn/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 14:43:36 -0800 From: Joan Broneske Subject: New Web Page Just wanted to let everyone know that I have just created my first Web = Page! I'm so proud!! :D I have some links to costuming pages and to = this mailing list. I also have a picture of me at the bottom in my Medieval (late gothic) = dress. (Yes, I know it's not exactly period, I don't think they wore = white, but I got married in it and we wanted to be Medieval yet go for = the traditional black and white) I would like to, in the future, feature a gallery of peoples costumes, = so if anyone thinks this is a good idea, let me know, and I could set it = up. So, check it out and let me know what you think. Thanks!! Joan Broneske unicorn@calweb.com http://www.calweb.com/~unicorn/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 14:50:27 -0800 From: gwjchris@ix.netcom.com (Glenna and Bill Christen ) Subject: rose beads "Rose beads are dull black beads that continue to smell like roses for many years. Gather fresh rose petals and grind them in a meat grinder or a modern food processor. Place the pulp and juice into an old iron skillet or pot. It must be iron, not a modern coated pan. The iron causes the petals to turn black Let the pulp stand in the skillet for a day, but stir occaisionally. It should be dry in about a day. Grind again, dry it, grind again for nine days. On the ninth day add a little water to make the mixture pliable. Roll the black pulp into small round balls. Put a straight pin through each bead. Stick the point into a piece of cardboard, and let the beads dry. The bead will slip in a few days, leaving a hole that can be used to string your necklace. The rose-petal beads were first made in Victorian times." ..from a "Kovels" column in a year-old copy of the "Antique Weekly" newspaper. Bill Christen gwjchris@ix.netcom.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 15:28:24 -0800 From: erin1@uclink4.berkeley.edu (Erin Harvey Moody) Subject: Re: Dying synthetic hair piece >I have a hair piece, that is ringlets. I believe it is snythetic or >Kankelon or something like that. It is a medium-dark brown color and I >would like to make it red, since I have been wearing my own hair red. >Does anyone know of a way that this could be dyed? I don't think regular >hair dye will work, because the synthetic hair fibers won't absorb the >color, but I was wondering if there is some other way of accomplishing >this. If not, I guess I'll just have to try to find another one in the >right color. A friend found the best solution for period hair I heard in a long time I will share with the list: Hair extensions made of human hair. You can buy them in long lengths (3-4 feet), cut them, sew them (yes, with a machine) onto elastic strips. Attach the stips onto hair comb-clips, and clip the hair onto yours. Buy the hair closest to your hair color. If you dye your hair, take the pieces into the shower (or to the salon) with you and dye them at the same time. They set easily and can be set and reset all you want. Wash them with regular shampoo. The investment is $60-100 but worth it if you do alot of events where you just cant spend time on correct hair. Just make sure if you order the hair you get "European" hair. Apparently unless you specify European hair, you might get Asian hair which does not set as well. Hope this is helpful to you, Erin ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 16:12:36 -0800 (PST) From: Tracy Miller Subject: Re: Dying synthetic hair piece On dying synth hair: Clairol color consultants 1-800-223-5800 They might have some suggestions. If you dye your human hair pieces to match your own, be sure to wash them about as frequently as you wash your own hair, because hair color fades as you wash it, especially reds (to my chagrin). Back to lurking Tracy ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Oct 95 16:16:46 PST From: Loren_Dearborn@casmail.calacademy.org (Loren Dearborn) Subject: More hair I've got another hair question. I've got several good quality synthetic period wigs that could use some re-styling - a few of the curls have gone to frizz. Does anyone have any tips for styling synthetic wigs? By the way I finally got a couple of wigs from Lacey's in New York (mentioned several times on this list) and I'm quite pleased with them. I got the Alonge and Deluxe Alonge, a couple of 1700's styles that look really great. Thanks. Loren Dearborn ldearborn@calacademy.org ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 19:23:21 -0500 (EST) From: "Katherine L. Rodman" Subject: Re: Dying synthetic hair piece Joan: For the theatre, we always dye our wigs with Rit dye or some other union dye. If you keep an eye on it and make sure to keep stirring it you can get a lovely uniform color. Not a particularly natural color, but lovely none the less. Good Luck!!!! Kat Katherine L. Rodman Gainesville, FL afn25136@freenet.ufl.edu "Historical accuracy and costume design do not neccessarily go hand in hand" John Conklin On Tue, 31 Oct 1995, Joan Broneske wrote: > This may be slightly off topic, but it is related. > > I have a hair piece, that is ringlets. I believe it is snythetic or Kankelon or something like that. It is a medium-dark brown color and I would like to make it red, since I have been wearing my own hair red. Does anyone know of a way that this could be dyed? I don't think regular hair dye will work, because the synthetic hair fibers won't absorb the color, but I was wondering if there is some other way of accomplishing this. If not, I guess I'll just have to try to find another one in the right color. > > Thanks!! > > Joan Broneske > unicorn@calweb.com > http://www.calweb.com/~unicorn/index.html > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 21:09:11 -0500 From: LukeLEP@aol.com Subject: Wigs 1660-1680 Hi Folks! This is my 1st foray out on to this list, so here goes! I have seen but not read these recent posts on wigs. I was wondering if anyone out there could recommend a dealer of high quality, historically accurate, dare I even say museum quality, wigs from the period 1660-1680 (English Restoration). I would be will to pay a good price. Any assistance would be appreciated. ------------------------------ Date: 01 Nov 95 05:27:17 EST From: Dee Wilson <100545.3105@compuserve.com> Subject: 1906 Children/sash/corset In my research into social history I have a recording of an interview with a woman who was a lady's maid in 1906. She said at that time children did NOT wear corsets ("that was Victorian, we were Edwardian"). However, she said that girl's party dresses did have tight sashes. She said that at age 10 or 11 a party would have a broad sash ( boned ?) which was hooked and eyed tightly. When asked "how tight" he said the test was - could you get two fingers inside the sash? If you could then as a maid she tightened the sash until you could NOT get two fingers inside the sash. Was this sash a way of introducing the girl to corsets ? I would like to ask those who have experience with wearing and making historical costume how tight, restricting and uncomfortable a 10 year old might find this sash. I have comments which range from "awful" to "same as tight jeans today " I have tried it myself, but I think I fail to get the historical context. Dee 100545.3105@compuserve.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Nov 1995 07:19:05 -0500 From: "sulcus@ahoynet.com" Subject: RE: Wigs 1660-1680 The Wig Shop at Colonial Williamsburg, Williamsburg, VA. accepts = commissions. Call 804-229-1000 and ask for the Wig Shop. Speak with = Ms. Kelly. If the writer will contact me off the list I will supply = other name(s). Bob Lawler=20 - ---------- From: LukeLEP@aol.com[SMTP:LukeLEP@aol.com] Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 1995 9:09 PM To: tmiller@haas.berkeley.edu; erin1@uclink4.berkeley.edu Cc: unicorn@calweb.com; h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: Wigs 1660-1680 Hi Folks! This is my 1st foray out on to this list, so here goes! =20 I have seen but not read these recent posts on wigs. I was wondering = if anyone out there could recommend a dealer of high quality, historically accurate, dare I even say museum quality, wigs from the period 1660-1680 (English Restoration). I would be will to pay a good price. Any assistance would be appreciated. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 01 Nov 95 02:36:49 -0800 From: Kevin Muir Subject: Turn of the Century Swedish Dragoon Uniforms I am currently assisting with costume design research for Sondheim's A Little Night Music and am having some difficulty in finding an accurate image of a Swedish dragoon uniform ca.1890-1910. If anyone has any information or advice regarding this search, I would appreciate the input. Victoria ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Nov 95 13:09:35 PST From: ches@tristero.io.com Subject: Re: infants costumes - ---------------Original Message--------------- On Mon, 30 Oct 1995, Stephen & Krista Fraser wrote: ... I do use elastic instead of drawstrings, and snaps where they don't show. I also use washable fabrics! - ----------End of Original Message---------- When did snaps make their appearence? - ------------------------------------- Ciao Ches E-mail: Ches@io.com This message was sent by Chameleon - ------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Nov 1995 16:34:06 -0500 (EST) From: Victoria Gilliam Subject: Rose Beads (let's try this again with plenty of time...) (Extracted from Tournaments Illuminated -- Summer 1990 -- Issue 95) (Sweet Summer's Roses by Guimora) "Rosary Beads A note on provenance: most references state that the Latin _rosarium_ (rose garden) was applied figuratively to the book of devotions used ("The Lord's garden"), then to the beads themselves, and lastly to the beads used to count the prayers. I did find a (translated) primary source--the letter of a pilgrim--describing the making and sale of rosary beads in Turkey, but I have never been able to find it again. Moral: photocopy everything and file away carefully!... Rosaries were introduced into Europe by the Eastern Church. Similar necklaces are still common in the Orient often linked with gods and goddesses such as Kuan-Vin, one of the Buddhas of meditation. Their use in Europe was first recorded in the ninth century, mainly as monastic aides ... Spread in the 13th century by St. Dominic's Black Friars, they were common amongst the religious by the 14th century...but it was not until early in the 16th century that Pope Leo X gave permission for their use. Rose beads are easy to make, but time consuming. You need at least a quart of dry petals ( you can use pot-pourri). They can be dried in an oven. When they are crackle-crisp, pound them to a powder (or use a blender) Put them in a saucepan with just enough water to stop them from burning, and simmer at least 2 hours. If you want black beads use an iron pot--if not, use enamel. Don't use a microwave: the petals form a musk which stinks, and the smell takes weeks to remove. Drain the petals thoroughly. The easiest way is to line a metal colander with several layers of cloth, dip the petals, in, cover, and weight with the biggest tins in the kitchen. Mash until they look like paste (I use a food processor). Now add your spices: orris root and rose oil are vital with poorly scented mundane roses. You can add delights such as cinnamon, ground lavender, cloves, nutmeg, and coriander. Test the mash. You want it to be sticky enough to hold together w/o sticking to your fingers. It can be thickened with rice flour, corn flour, even plaster of paris. If it becomes brittle or flaky, add a drop of glycerine or oil. You can add salt to help preserve the beads, but I've never needed it and I think it makes the mash grainy. Moulding the beads is tricky. You can make the beads, dry them, and then drill the holes, or you can use a hollow form (grass stems work well) to mould the bead around. Lastly, you can make the bead and then pierce it while soft. Of the three, the first works best. _Never_ leave a damp bead on a rod--when it dries the only way you will get it off is by breaking it! As a last step you can roll the beads in orris powder or rice flour for a smoother surface. Dry them in the sun, in a slow oven (no hotter than 250 degrees, checking every 10 minutes), or best of all oon top of your hot water cupboard. Finished? Not quite... Your beads need sanding for a smooth finish, and perhaps another drop of rose oil rubbed in to give a glossy, scented finish. They last well--I have some rough beads over ten years old that still smell faintly of summer--and scattered in a drawer they will in time even scent the wood." (Also in this article is recipes for Rose Honey, Rose Vinegar, Rose Oil, Pickled Roses, Rose Essence, Rose Water and Rose Wine.) (Guimora is mka Ruth Sard from South Austrailia (at least back in 1990)) Ellsbeth Lachlanina MacLabhruinn mka Vycke' - -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= | http://www.aksi.net/unicorn | Sangre del Sol, Trimaris | | Brain fried -- core dumped. | Future Knight & Laurel..... | - -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Vycke' Gilliam z009341b@bcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V3 #241 ******************************* A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!