From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V3 #256 Reply-To: h-costume Sender: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Tuesday, November 21 1995 Volume 3, Number 256 Compilation copyright (C) 1995 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: Re: Corsets in SF Bay Area Re: Muslin vs Calico Looking for Help Health Effects of Corsetry Re: Looking for sources re- Tear-away shirts Re: Muslin for Tunic? Re: velvet footcloths Tight Jeans Re: Muslin for Tunic? No! Corsets in the SF Bay Area US Muslin = UK/AUS Calico 19th Century Masqued Ball re: muslin re: tear away shirt Re: muslin Re: 19th Century Masqued Ball Re: Corsets ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 06:53:22 -0800 (PST) From: Catnip Subject: Re: Corsets in SF Bay Area I know Autumn Adamme runs Dark Garden Studios in SF. They make really nice corsets. I don't have the phone # handy, but I can scrounge for it it you're interested. There's also Grande Illusions over in Hayward. I know they have corset supplies, but I don't know if they actually have the finished item. - - Dorothy ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 10:48:43 -0500 From: deirdre@deeny.MV.COM (Deirdre) Subject: Re: Muslin vs Calico At 4:22 PM 11/21/95, Fiona Thorne wrote: > Question for our US friends, is muslin bleached, unbleached or both? When > we buy what we call calico, it is nearly always unbleached. Most often unbleached, though I just picked up a whole bunch of bleached muslin for trial garments. It was more like sheet fabric actually. Calico in the US generally means a cotton fabric printed with a country design. _Deirdre ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 11:22:49 -0500 From: HiNonny@aol.com Subject: Looking for Help Does anyone know of someone in Southern California who will sew a Victorian Ball Gown? I have a 'pattern' sort of. It's the specs on a dress in the London Museum and I would like to have a copy, but I don't sew that well. Thanks in advance. Amanda ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 12:22:21 -0500 From: Tudorldy@aol.com Subject: Health Effects of Corsetry A couple of cogent statements regarding the health effects of corsetry have been brought up. One of the rather surprising things attributed (primarily by modern writers, I believe) is that being tightly corseted eventually necessitated some need for a uterine support device. I've seen old ad copy for these contraptions, and they look pretty scary. HOWEVER - I maintain - and if one of our number is an MD and would care to confirm or refute this, I would really, really appreciate it - that the necessity of wearing some sort of uterine support as a result of, say, uterine prolapse is due to one thing only - repeated childbearing. In fact, I would say that the dangers of childbearing far outweigh any of the mythical ailments laid at the door of corsetry. However, a fine waist was vanity, breeding was sacred, so women were blamed for causing these health problems themselves by their vanity. True, there were those who tight-laced excessively, but my guess is that their number is equivalent to those who, when the vogue for tight jeans was prevalent, had to pull up their zippers with a pair of pliers (I actually witnessed this on more than one occasion). However, I assert that more women damaged their health and damaged themselves internally by repeated childbearing than ever did by lacing. So -- with regard to needing uterine support, I feel that it can safely be excluded from one of the hazards of corseting. Perhaps someone has information on how many maiden women used them? My guess is that few, if any, required one of these devices. Dedicated to debunking corset mythology, Elizabeth Blackdane/Meagn E. Maguire (TudorLdy@aol.com) ------------------------------ Date: 21 Nov 1995 10:21:24 -0800 From: "Carole Newson-Smith" Subject: Re: Looking for sources re- Reply to: RE>Looking for sources re: 1450-1500 England. Anybody? David, I am a member of the SCA. The corporate mailing address is PO Box 360789, Milpitas, CA 95036-0789, USA. The phone number is 408-263-9305, and the fax number is 408-263-0641. Ask for the full list of publications, which will include the Compleat Anachronist series. There are booklets on leather work, costuming from different eras, brewing, "period" lighting, etc. I think you might also want to peruse a general publication entitled "The Known World Handboke", which is a paperbound book, containing a series of articles written by SCA folk about different aspects of SCA life, from a very basic introduction to heraldry, down to how to pack your "wagon" for a camping weekend. I believe it's priced around $12 US. Let me know if I can be of more assistance. Carole Newson-Smith (SCA: Cordelia Toser) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 13:23:32 -0500 From: Izzabow@aol.com Subject: Tear-away shirts I a looking for information on how to make tear-away shirts. I need to hide a yellow shirt under a purple one. It also needs to be used repeatedly, so I figure velco is involved somehow. Does anyone have any technique ideas or places I could look to find some basic instructions? I would appreciate any help you all can give. Thanks, Ange in Denver ------------------------------ Date: 21 Nov 1995 10:36:20 -0800 From: "Carole Newson-Smith" Subject: Re: Muslin for Tunic? Reply to: RE>>Muslin for Tunic? :From: Katrina Hunt :On Mon, 20 Nov 1995, Stephen & Krista Fraser wrote: : :> Could you give me your opinions of a 12th C. England man's tunic made of muslin? :> I know that linen or light wool has been suggested, but I'm trying to go as :> inexpensively as possible without looking ridiculous. Muslin has a vague: :> linen look, but it doesn't drape very well....however, it would be quite :> cool in summer. Comments...suggestions?? :> :Is muslin different there than in Australia? Here the weave is very :open and not appropriate for outer wear. It would be very cool, :and very, very see-through. : :Katrina In the U.S. the fabric used to make bed sheets is called bleached muslin. There is a stiff, coarser beige fabric that is called unbleached muslin. Carole Newson-Smith ------------------------------ Date: 21 Nov 1995 11:09:54 -0800 From: "Carole Newson-Smith" Subject: Re: velvet Reply to: RE>>velvet By the fifteenth century there was a lot of fabric manufacturing in northern Italy. From there, goods went north and west. France was generally ahead of England fashion-wise. The Italians were also a funnel for trade goods coming from and through the middle-eastern countries. The Italians wore what they manufactured, as well as fabrics they imported. There are many paintings from that era which show magnificent fabrics, both as backdrops on walls, and as clothing. There is a famous Flemish portrait of an Italian cloth merchant named Arnolfini and his wife, showing them standing in a room. She's wearing a green outer dress. Also look at paintings of the de Medici brothers, various saints and the virgin. In the Tres Riche Heures of the Duc du Berry (I've probably butchered the spelling), you can see that the Duc could afford the best. Carole Newson-Smith ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 15:43:50 -0500 From: reaves@tuvok.marian.edu Subject: footcloths The Russian army still uses footcloths, partly because strips of cloth are cheaper and easier to produce, and partly because they always have used them (so why should modern troops expect coddling)? ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 08:47:52 +1100 From: "GILLIAN RICHARDS (02) 716 3712" Subject: Tight Jeans Elizabeth Blackdane (The Tudorldy) wrote: : However, a fine waist was vanity, breeding was sacred, so women : were blamed for causing these health problems themselves by their : vanity. True, there were those who tight-laced excessively, but : my guess is that their number is equivalent to those who, when the : vogue for tight jeans was prevalent, had to pull up their zippers : with a pair of pliers (I actually witnessed this on more than one : occasion). A wire coathanger works much better, as it gives you more to hang on to as you force that zipper past the (probably non-existant) flab - but once you've got them on - don't sit down and don't eat anything!!! + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + | Gillian Richards - TAFE NSW - (02) 716 3712 |\__/| | | aka: gillian.richards@tafensw.edu.au / \ | | "The Midnight Fox", "Mummy" /_.~ ~,_\ | | Australia's answer to the werewolf? \ / | + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - @ - - - - - - + ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 17:34:41 -0500 From: "Karen Mercedes" Subject: Re: Muslin for Tunic? No! In message <199511210245.VAA20965@gold.muskoka.com> Stephen & Krista Fraser writes: > Hi! > > Could you give me your opinions of a 12th C. England man's tunic made of > muslin? > I know that linen or light wool has been suggested, but I'm trying to go as > inexpensively as possible without looking ridiculous. Muslin has a vague > linen look, but it doesn't drape very well....however, it would be quite > cool in summer. Comments...suggestions?? Muslin looks like muslin. I'd look instead at a rough cotton-ramie blend; it drapes nicely (it's soft), and has a kind of woolly (actualy a raw-silky) look to it. Given they use cotton-ramie on some extremely cheap clothes, I imagine it's probably very cheap by the yard too. Karen Mercedes mercedes@access.digex.net +----------------------------------------------+ | ...I guessed not half | | Life's symphony till I had made hearts beat, | | And touched Love's body into trembling cries | | -- Wilfred Owen, MUSIC | +----------------------------------------------+ ------------------------------ Date: 21 Nov 95 14:19:05 -0800 From: "SNORTON.US.ORACLE.COM" Subject: Corsets in the SF Bay Area There are several good corset makers in the SF Bay area. Lorraine Carson Mountain View 415 969 5514 Dark Garden Autumn Adamme and Monique Motil San Francisco 415 567 6267 Sheri Jurnecka San Francisco 425 333 4131 (Sin)ch Corsetry Clovis Carleton Oakland 510 451 7716 Erin Harvey Moody Oakland 510 444 6244 Winter Moon Cherie Moore Oakland 510 832 3720 ------------------------------ Date: 21 Nov 95 17:10:45 EST From: Rhane <74404.22@compuserve.com> Subject: US Muslin = UK/AUS Calico TO: Katrina Hunt Subject: Re: Muslin for Tunic? Katrina, <> yes, it is, Australian/English 'muslin' is 'cheesecloth' in the US. 'Muslin' in the US is *very* similar to 'calico' in the UK/Australia. For the other person asking about using muslin for garb: Try using OSNABURG (wash it about 6-7 times first, tho'... kinda itchy). Wal-mart sells it. It's 100% natural (colored) cotton. Fairly rough weave and fairly cheap. Rhane (who's from the US but is in the UK now) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 15:30:44 -0800 From: cynthia@caere.com Subject: 19th Century Masqued Ball Subject: 19th Century Masque Ball >I am currently trying to design a dress for an 1860's Masque Ball and am >having a terrible time finding resources on both costume design and >ettique for the occasion. Does anyone know of anything? Crystal, I have a large fashion plate collection of my own, mostly American. Among these are many ballgowns, but only one is for an masqued ball in an American magazine. (Godey's approx. 1865) Of particular note is the riot of color on the Fancy Dress gowns in sharp contrast to the soft, restrained solids of the usual ball attire. The only American plate I have shows romanticized, gawdy looks from (European) history, adapted to Victorian clothing shapes. In some cases this is quite odd. There are: Elizabeth I (the dagging has become a box pleated peplum, colors are teal & cinnamon ), a Spanish court gown compleat w/ fontage headdress (now in starched lace, gown is plum & kelly green), something sort of Dutch peasant-ish (blue bodice, brown skirt w/ red trim), a French court gown (pale blue over peach underskirt; is that panniers AND hoops?!), another Spanish style this time a gypsy-ish get-up w/red bolero, yellow Garibaldi shirt, black heavily skirt. The sash is red w/ yellow trim, alternating red & yellow fringe. 3 Children: 2 small girls dressed as a pilgrim and a court fool The fool is a pale blue dagged overshirt, screaming yellow undershirt and matching blue Robin hood cap. Small boy wearing kilts & tam. When I was in Italy at a antique book vendors shop in Torino, I asked for fashion plates. He quickly found a small folder of about 20. (I thought I'd hit the jackpot!) After poking thru the small bundle and finding them all faded, badly foxed or torn, I was about to leave when the proprietor told me "Madame, your table is ready." Usually, you expect to hear this in a restaurant, not a bookshop. On the table were 12 folders, none less than 2" thick. Each folder was labled: "Women", "Men", "Groups of Women", "Groups of Men", "Children", "Mixed Groups", "Carnivale" and so on. You would have wanted the "Carnivale" folder. This is the Big Event in Northern Italy. Every museum & castle explodes with people in historical & psuedo-historical costume. In summary, I harbor a suspicion that masqued balls were not as popular in the US as they were in Italy, Spain and other countries. Try reprints of fashions from "Moda Illustrada", a spanish magazine (generally 1880s); there is a series of these, of which I have 3. One is ONLY Fancy Dress gowns. You could reasonably take the Racinet book (19th engravings of many historical paintings), look at them with your "Victorian Eyes" and create something quite fun! As someone else mentioned, "From the Ballroom to Hell" is an excellent collection of period commentary on the subject of dancing. It will not give you ballroom etiquette. --cin ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 15:32:41 -0800 (PST) From: Kimberly Smay Subject: re: muslin At the risk of beating a dying horse, muslin comes in a number of grades. Scenic muslin (used in making theatrical flats and drops) is quite heavy. It works beautifully for corsets and stable flat-lining. The loose-weave variety is available in the u.s. for very cheap. terrible stuff in my opinion. Kimberly Smay ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 15:26:57 -0800 (PST) From: Kimberly Smay Subject: re: tear away shirt I personally don't like velcro. It sticks to itself entirelytoo well ands not always where you want it to. I've made a couple of rip-away costumes and I use snap tape. Don't use the gripper snap kind, it grabs too well. If you want the ripping sound of velcro, sew little patches between the snaps. Is the fast change one direction only i.e. off, but not back on? two way fast changes take a lot more engineering. Write back if thats what you need. Kimberly Smay ------------------------------ Date: 21 Nov 1995 16:18:32 -0800 From: "Carole Newson-Smith" Subject: Re: muslin Reply to: RE>>muslin I have found one (count them, one) use for unbleached muslin (U.S. definition). When I make a pattern, I start with newsprint for the first draft, adjust, go to unbleached muslin, which can be pinned, trimmed, marked on to my heart's content, and then separated and used as pattern pieces. If it's a pattern that's going to be used more than once or twice, I stay stitch the edges. It's just about the cheapest stuff in the fabric stores around here. Carole Newson-Smith ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Nov 95 18:24 CST From: vbetts@gower.net (Vicki Betts) Subject: Re: 19th Century Masqued Ball Christmas Day, Saturday, December 25, 1858 Sis Anne and Mamie spent today with me. They came down yesterday to attend a fancy party at Mrs. Shipping's--After some deliberation we took different characters. Sis Anne personated "Night" wearing a new black velvet dress, low necked and short sleeves, with a black lace veil, with silver spangles--This with her sett of diamonds made a very elegant dress. Mamie wore white satin with an illusion tunic or top skirt, borderd with a broad gilt band. The neck, sleeves and crown were trimmed with the same. She wore her sett of diamonds. I don't believe Mamie has decided yet wether she personated "Norma" or "Evadne." My dress consisted of an alapaca riding skirt with black velvet Basque, Mr. Thomas' cap trimmed with feathers--Gauntlets, linen collar and undersleeves and a riding whip--making the complete costume of Di Vernon in Scott's Rob Roy. The costume was quite comfortable and they all said becoming--A great many were invited from town but there were very few there. Still the evening passed pleasantly ... They had a very nice supper and the band to play for them yet it decided me that I was right in an opinion previously formed, that it was difficult to succeed in getting people out from town, so far, when they have to return the same night. p. 166, The Secret Eye: The Journal of Ella Gertrude Clanton Thomas, 1848-1889. Edited by Virginia Ingraham Burr. Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 1990. Ella lived in and near Augusta, Georgia. footnote: Night was the child of Chaos and Evadne the wife of Capaneus in Greek mythology. Norma is the heroine of Bellini's opera of the same name. Vicki Betts vbetts@gower.net ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 18:00:55 -0700 (MST) From: Wayfinder Subject: Re: Corsets On Fri, 17 Nov 1995 HiNonny@aol.com wrote: > Could anyone please tell me where to find a corset pattern? I know that > Amazon Drygoods carries some. Are these the best available? Or is there > something better? > > > > Thanks in Advance, > > Amanda > Past patterns sell a couple really good corset patterns. Pretty simple to follow... unfortunately I don't have the adress at the moment... I've moved and lost everything but my mind at this point... Crystal ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V3 #256 ******************************* A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!