From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V3 #259 Reply-To: h-costume Sender: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Sunday, November 26 1995 Volume 3, Number 259 Compilation copyright (C) 1995 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: Renaissance faire garb Re: Lavender's Green Re:Speaking of Flax ... Re: sarcenet and gold thread Early 1500s Costume Goose Down Re: Flax Lavender's Green Address Re: Flax re; Fans? Gloves Corseting style question the end of cartridge pleating re: Corset Changes Re: velvet Hook and eye "tape" Re: Renaissance faire garb...go Russian! Re: the end of cartridge pleating ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 24 Nov 95 20:50 CST From: tallison@mcs.com (Tim Allison) Subject: Renaissance faire garb I am trying to come up with some ideas for a panel on making renfaire garb for people who are not costumers but would like to look like they belong. I don't do any sewing myself, but of course there would be real costumers on the panel. Any suggestions gratefully recieved. (The panel would be Memorial Day Weekend; Bristol Faire starts very soon afterwards, so this has to be something that won't take months to put together.) TIA Carol ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 24 Nov 1995 22:31:42 -0500 From: ELIZA28@aol.com Subject: Re: Lavender's Green I am interested in contacting this company. Do you have an address or phone number? Any help would be appreciated!!! Jennifer P. Eliza28@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Nov 1995 10:02:44 -0500 From: Gary Stephens Subject: Re:Speaking of Flax ... Dear Tracy, You were saying: > Since we're on the subject of flax, I have one [flax bush, that is] >growing in my yard. In idle moments I've considered experimenting with >producing my very own, home grown [literally] garment--but haven't a clue >what to do first. A year or more ago I checked our local library but details >on turning flax into cloth are a little too esoteric for the cash strapped >general circulation list. The next time I visit the UC Irvine library I will >check their lists. Does anyone have any reading suggestions? Has anyone >actually done this? What am I letting myself in for? My husband has been gathering information regarding this for about a year now, with the intent of spinning flax for bowstrings. The flax he's been researching about is different than the flax you would wish to use: in his case it's a long-fibre flax. You'd probably won't a shorter fibre. He borrowed a marvelous little book from a friend called, now let's see where the book is, ah, _Flax Culture, from flower to fabric_ Mavis Atton, The Ginger Press, 848 Seond AVenue East, Owen Sound, Ontario, Canada N4K 2H3, 1988, ISBN 0-921773-06-4. Apparently dealing with flax is a really big deal. You have to worry about proper moisture for strong flax, proper sun, proper retting, all that stuff. You might also consider buying the retted flax which is ready for spinning. There are several places you can get this. If that's a route you wish to go, let me know and I'll post you an address. Lorina Stephens garys@flexnet.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Nov 1995 10:51:14 -0500 From: MLaventure@aol.com Subject: Re: sarcenet and gold thread For a mail order source for gold thread, you might try Hedgehog Handworks. Their phone number is (310) 670-6040. Address is P.O. Box 45384, Westchester, CA 90045. The catalog is $5.00. They do carry real gold and silver thread, as well as many books and other specialty needlework supplies especially for period recreation. Mary ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Nov 1995 15:25:14 -0500 From: Kersie1@aol.com Subject: Early 1500s Costume Hi! I know I have been lurking silently for a while now, but I have a question for any costuming "experts" who may be out there. I will give Desdemona's soliliquy from "Othello" next Friday. However, I NEED to make myself a costume. Because of the time constraints, does anyone have any suggestions for patterns? and where I can get them? PLEASE respond to me personally, don't clutter up the list! Thanks! Karen :-) Kersie1@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Nov 1995 13:43:51 -0500 (EST) From: cpecourt@mhv.net Subject: Goose Down Hello I am not sure if this is the right place to ask this question, but I was wondering when goose down came into use and how they get the goose down. Chantal ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Nov 1995 16:44:23 -0500 From: Carol Bier Subject: Re: Flax You may wish to check out two new references: Elizabeth J. Barber, _Women's Work: The First Twenty Thousand Years_ published earlier this year or late last year. Carol Bier, "Textile Arts in Ancient Western Asia," in Jack M. Sasson, ed. _Civilizations of the Ancient Near East_, vol. III published this fall by Charles Scribner's Sons, New York. Carol Bier Curator, Eastern Hemisphere Collection The Textile Museum Washington, D.C. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Nov 1995 16:49:23 -0500 (EST) From: BARBARASHU@delphi.com Subject: Lavender's Green Address Several of you have sent me E-mail requesting their address. Since only one person has posted a recommendation, caveat emptor. Lavender's Green, Kay Demlow - Designer & Dressmaker, 337 NE Second Ave., Hillsboro, OR 97124, (800)491-3783, (503)640-6936. In case anyone is wondering, I sent for their brochure from an ad at the back of Lady's Gallery Magazine, and that's all I know of them. Those of who you sew well might see a commercial opportunity here!!! Barbara ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Nov 1995 16:44:23 -0500 From: Carol Bier Subject: Re: Flax You may wish to check out two new references: Elizabeth J. Barber, _Women's Work: The First Twenty Thousand Years_ published earlier this year or late last year. Carol Bier, "Textile Arts in Ancient Western Asia," in Jack M. Sasson, ed. _Civilizations of the Ancient Near East_, vol. III published this fall by Charles Scribner's Sons, New York. Carol Bier Curator, Eastern Hemisphere Collection The Textile Museum Washington, D.C. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Nov 1995 20:46:18 -0800 From: kari@cdsnet.net (Roland Kari) Subject: re; Fans? Hello all, I am interested in learning how to make a period fan to match my 1750 ball gown. I not only want to learn its' construction, I also would like to learn the flirting technique that go along with it. I remember seeing a movie or documentary on the proper way a Ladie would use the fan in a silent form of communication. Has anyone ever heard of this or have any knowledge of such a thing? Regards, Kora Kari kari@cdsnet.net ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Nov 1995 21:26:14 -0800 From: Stella Nemeth Subject: Gloves >Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 12:55:28 -0800 >From: Susan Fatemi >Subject: Re: H-Costume Digest V3 #246 > >This won't help any medievalists, but gloves were found in Tutankhamon's >tomb. real gloves, not mittens. I think they were embroidered. (can't remember >where I saw this, may have been tv.) > >Susan Fatemi >susanf@eerc.berkeley.edu Sorry I am so far behind on this, but I'm trying to catch up. I just looked them up. They found 27 gloves (don't ask me what happened to #28, but it was probably stolen). THE COMPLETE TUTANKHAMON has a photo of one of them. It looks straight out of the 19th Century (AD, that is ) complete with cuffs. One pair had seen heavy wear and had been used a driving gloves (this info is not from the above reference and I can't remember where I saw it). Stella s.nemeth@ix.netcom.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Nov 95 00:24:40 CST From: bednarek@tidalwave.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971 ~BHOSVWZ#097) Subject: Corseting style question There are various styles of corset's mainly Victorian, Edwardian, Tutor ets to just list a few. Each changes the body shape in it's own particular way to fit the costums of that particular eara. Does anyone have a listing of how each era changed that way. Like one eara might have been more on producing a flat front line, and another eara bringing in the waist more from a front view. etc. It would be interesting and informative if a short listing of these differences and there particular earas were posted. dennis ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Nov 1995 22:36:11 -0800 From: knowles@netcom.com (Sheryl Knowles) Subject: the end of cartridge pleating I was wondering if this list could answer the question: when did cartridge pleating cease to be the common method of "gathering" skirt materials --- that is, of course, _after_ it seemingly came to be common in the late Renn, :-). I have been looking at Janet Arnold's pattern book that includes the 1700s and, altho some of her illustrations look like they _might_ be cartridge- pleated, I can't actually tell. I am particularly curious as to whether it was a common sewing technique in the American colonies circa 1770-1776. Herewith I offer my appreciation for your insights. ---Sheryl Knowles knowles@netcom.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Nov 1995 08:06:21 -0800 From: gwjchris@ix.netcom.com (Bill and Glenna Christen ) Subject: re: Corset Changes This is multipart MIME message. - --sthwaccuddtafkkyxngustqosptoqy Content-Type:text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; name="NCZ053A.TMP" To the h-costume list. I intended the attached message to go to the entire list. Glenna Jo Christen - --sthwaccuddtafkkyxngustqosptoqy Content-Type:text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; name="00000276.msg" From: gwjchris@ix.netcom.com (Bill and Glenna Christen ) Subject: Re: Corseting style question To: bednarek@tidalwave.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971 ~BHOSVWZ#097) You wrote: >There are various styles of corset's mainly Victorian, Edwardian, Tutor...Each changes the body shape in it's own particular >way to fit the costums of that particular eara. It would be interesting and informative if a short listing of these differences and there particular earas were posted. I can contribute comments regarding some of the corset changes during the 19th Century. Early century corsets appear to be mainly for bust support and to make the rest of the torso cylindrical under the extreme high "empire" style dresses. One example I've seen in a photograph (I forgot the source as it's not "my period") looks rather like a cross between a sports bra and an equally modern heavy-duty bra for a very large busted woman.) Young, slim women probably used minimal corsetry if any, but very few women could wear those garments w/o help. I have a gap in my knowledge until the 1840's when the "look" was very long waisted, and flat chested. This look required long corsets with heavy boning, shoulder straps etc: back to the cylindrical look up all the way up the body this time. The clothes for both men and women was very tight and confining. Tight corseting was the norm if photographs and fashion magazines are any indication. With the advent of the new flouncy, feminine look of the 1850's and the introduction of cage crinolines waistlines came back into fashion. Corsets became shorter with less boning and less confining. They allowed women to have a bustline again. That line was a slight outward curve rather than that of a woman's natural bustline. Often the boning ended at or just below the waistline as the hips were hidden under hoops. Some corsets kept the shoulder straps, but some examples did not. This style continued with minor variations throughout the hoopskirt era. IMHO corsetry got "brutal" again with the advent of the bustle and the new incarnation of the long-waisted look. This time women still were "allowed" to have a bust, but corsets appear to come even further down over the hips than the 1840's styles. I'm hardly an expert on corsetry, but having worn a few and read quite a bit these are my observations. I look forward to reading other's information, observations and opinions. Glenna Jo Christen LHS, LSFS & MSAS gwjchris@ix.netcom.com - --sthwaccuddtafkkyxngustqosptoqy-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Nov 1995 11:32:12 -0500 From: Carol Bier Subject: Re: velvet While we are on a velvet thread, now seems an appropriate moment to announce publication of my new book, _The Persian Velvets at Rosenborg_, Copenhagen, 1995. ISBN 87-89542-26-6 111 pages, 65 figs. incl 12 color and 16 micrographs technical appendices, glossary, timeline, analytical bibliogr Available from The Textile Museum Shop 2320 S Street, NW Washington, D.C. 20008 tel. (202) 667-0441 x38 fax (202) 483-0994 e-mail textilemus@aol.com $70 plus shipping. Textile Museum member's discount, 10%. This work is based upon sixty-one velvet fragments, including numerous loom-widths (right and left selvedges) and some fragments more than 2m in length, preserved in Copenhagen's Rosenborg Palace -- the largest single coprus of Persian velvets in the world. A contribution by Mogens Bencard, director of the R. collections, assesses the palace archives of Rosenbrog and Gottorp, confirming the suggestion of F.R. Martin in 1901 that these velvets were among the sumptuous gifts brought back in 1639 by the Persian Embassy of Friedrich III, Duke of Holstein. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Nov 1995 17:05:44 -0500 From: MonicaShen@aol.com Subject: Hook and eye "tape" Hello all, I was wondering if any of you in the San Francisco Bay Area know where to buy hook and eye "tape". I've seen something similar for snaps. I'm hoping to find fabric strips with hooks already sewn on one strip and eyes already sewn on the other. That way you just sew the whole thing onto a dress and don't need to sew (and line up) the hooks and eyes individually. Have any of you tried using this on the back of a Victorian bodice? Or is it just plain easier to sew the hooks and eyes separately? Thanks for your help! Monica monicashen@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Nov 1995 18:20:07 -0500 From: "Karen Mercedes" Subject: Re: Renaissance faire garb...go Russian! In message Tim Allison writes: > I am trying to come up with some ideas for a panel on making renfaire garb > for people who are not costumers but would like to look like they belong. I > don't do any sewing myself, but of course there would be real costumers on > the panel. Any suggestions gratefully recieved. (The panel would be Being in this position myself, one of my most successful renfaire costumes was also the easiest to make: I went as a 16th Century Russian aristocrat. The women's dresses are extremely easy, even the very elegant ones, as they are essentially floor-length pinafores/jumpers (pinafore to the Brits = jumper to the Americans); a 16th Century Russian peasant's dress is even easier (and less expensive) to make. Even the head-dresses are easy as they can be done by building up a standard woman's hairband using cardboard covered with fabric or painted with "gilt" (i.e., gold paint). The idea suggested itself to me when I was watching Eisenstein's IVAN THE TERRIBLE, and I realised how much simpler the Russian women's costumes of that age were to make than their Western counterparts. For men, the costumes are equally simple, as the aristocrats (including the Boyars) wore caftans, and the peasants wore the classic tunic over baggy knee-length pants with high boots (then as now), sashed at the waist. The hardest thing for men is to do the hat, which for Boyars looks something like the British Guards' regiment's fur hats. Still, with a cardboard cone as a base, and the clever use of fake fur (black, grey, or dark brown), one can come up with a very respectable facsimile. Karen Mercedes > mercedes@access.digex.net +--------------------------------+ | I think...therefore I'm single | +--------------------------------+ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Nov 1995 15:34:40 -0800 From: gwjchris@ix.netcom.com (Bill and Glenna Christen ) Subject: Re: the end of cartridge pleating > I was wondering if this list could answer the question: when did > cartridge pleating cease to be the common method of "gathering" skirt > materials I am particularly curious as to whether it was a common > sewing technique in the American colonies circa 1770-1776. "Cartidge pleating", or as it was know before the invention of cartridges, "gauging" has come and gone in fashion many times. It was one of the possible skirt treatments used at least in the 1850's and the early 1860's. I leave it to the Colonial era costumers to confirm or deny my suspicions that it wasn't uncommon for that era either. Glenna Jo Christen gwjchris@ix.netcom.com ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V3 #259 ******************************* A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!