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Subject: H-Costume Digest V3 #261
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H-Costume Digest        Tuesday, November 28 1995        Volume 3, Number 261

  Compilation copyright (C) 1995  Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller
  Use in whole prohibited.  Individual articles are the property of
  the author.  Seek permission from that author before reprinting or
  quoting elsewhere.

Important Addresses:

  Send submissions to:   h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to
			  this message).
  Adds/drops/archives:   majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com
  Real, live person:     h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu

Topics:
    Re: footcloths
    Corset Homepage
    Re: Hook and eye tape
    La Lame address
    Public TV Idea
    Re: Hook and eye tape
    hook and eye tape
    English Reinactment groups in the US
    hook & eye tape
    Re: Authentic Green Specs
    19th Century Costume Balls
    1860's Children's Clothing
    Raiments
    re: hook and eye tape
    Tea
    Re: Tea
    Age of Innocence Tea
    Age of Innocence Tea
    Re: Hook and eye tape
    Re: footcloths
    Re-Hook and Eye tape
    Raiments >>> AlterYears
    Late 1870's Clothing (was: Re: Age of Innocence Tea)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 11:35:49 -0500
From: reaves@tuvok.marian.edu
Subject: Re: footcloths

Lrp@westol.com wrote:
> I know the Russian use footcloths, and have done so for a very long time. The
>GErman and Austrian armies used them in WWI. They are almost as comfortable as
>regular socks, depending on the material that you use. I've worn them and know
>that they work.
>
> What my posting was about, was when and where did the idea originate? Is it
>earlier than socks, or something that came later? I'm looking for whatever
>hard
>data there is historically on this subject. Anything you can contribute?

The earliest surviving socks date  back to the early Coptic period, made
with nalbindung, while knitted socks survive from about the eighth century.
No doubt leg and foot wraps are older.   Check articles about the
Swiss/Italian glacier man.   I think I recall that his legs and feet were
wrapped,   but I could be wrong (that material isn't on campus  with me).

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 12:04:24 -0500 (EST)
From: Drea Leed <aleed@indiana.edu>
Subject: Corset Homepage

Everyone,

Just wanted to mention that the page on elizabethan corsets is up, albeit 
under severe construction (I still haven't done the page on how to make a 
pattern from measurements, or the pages on how to make different kinds of 
corsets from the pattern--tabbed, strapped/strapless, etc.).  I do have 
the page on materials up, instructions on wearing a corset, and a link to an 
online corset-selling company (modern, alas, but there is some stuff there).

Due to a sudden increase in my already slavish workload, I'm going to 
have to stop work on the page for a few weeks; so I figured I'd give you 
what I had so far, rather than making you wait.  Remember, it /is/ under 
a lot of construction.

the address is:
http://nickel.ucs.indiana.edu/~aleed/corsets/

have fun!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 10:27:12 -0800
From: Margo Glenn-Lewis <nomad@dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: Re: Hook and eye tape

>I was wondering if any of you in the San Francisco Bay Area know where to buy
>hook and eye "tape".  

I have found it in package form at the Yardage shop in Sacramento.  You
might try calling yardage shops....  I have not been able to locate it other
than pre-packaged since the local chain fabric store stopped carrying it
altogether.  I used to see it in one of the mail-order catlogs, but no more.
If anyone knows of a source, please let me know!

I love this stuff - I us it in my dance costumes! Doesn't gap, doesn't pop
out, and can be manipulated by very nervous fingers.

Margo
Margo Glenn-Lewis
Opal Sun Softweare
"The truth is rarely pure, and never simple."
Oscar Wilde

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 95 12:03:00 PST
From: "Tobey, Pam" <L80008TB@washpost.com>
Subject: La Lame address

Gail,
I finally remembered to check a theatrical sourcebook for NY I have and found
the La Lame info. I hope it isn't too late for your use. (I'll also post it
to the list so others who are interested can note it.) My book is copyright
1990, so I can't guarantee they are still in the same location.

La Lame
250 West 39th St.  
5th floor
NY, NY 10018
(212) 921-9770
located between 7th and 8th Avenues
open Mon.-Fri., 9a.m.-5p.m.

If you or anyone reading the group needs info about NY sources, I can look it
up in my little book. They list all kinds of things the costumer and theater
professional might need, like props, curtains, notions, fabrics, millinary,
all kinds of rentals, etc. I have found most of these places are still in the
same locations. Except the book. I think the publisher went out of business
in 1991 or 92.

Pam Tobey
Tobeyp@washpost.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Nov 1995 20:17:42 -0500
From: horseman@together.net (Ken Horseman)
Subject: Public TV Idea

I am the Executive Producer of Mountain Lake Public Television.  We are
researching an idea for a series of short fillers on how various individuals
who lived at various times in history would get dressed.  How might a
"flapper girl" have dressed?  What would the well dressed southern belle
have worn?  

We're interested in sources of costumes as well as expertise for the idea.
Any ideas?  Thanks.

Ken Horseman
Mountain Lake Public TV
One Sesame Street
Plattsburgh, NY  12901
518-563-9770
EMail: horseman@together.net OR horseman@nylink.org        

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 13:08:02 -0800 (PST)
From: Tracy Miller <tmiller@haas.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: Hook and eye tape

Try Britex in San Francisco or Lacis in Berkeley.  Between the two, they 
have just about anything.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 15:58:28 -0500
From: Gaelscot@aol.com
Subject: hook and eye tape

I have used hook and eye tape on a Victorian ballgown bodice, and it worked
wonderfully. Much easier to sew, particularly if you're in a hurry. In
Cincinnati, Ohio, you can buy it at just about any fabric store, although at
some stores it's ridiculously expensive. Shop around. Sometimes it's in the
bridal section. I would just ask the salesperson, he or she should know just
where the stuff is kept.

Gail Finke
gaelscot@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 95 14:51:29 PST
From: Stacey_Weinberger@wadsworth.com
Subject: English Reinactment groups in the US

     Does anyone know of groups in the San Francisco Bay area that do 
     reinacting of mid 19th century England (1830s-1860s) year 'round?  
     I'd like to pursue my anglophilia more than once a year than at 
     Dickens!
     
     Thank you very much,
     
     Stacey
     Stacey_Weinberger@Wadsworth.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 14:56:11 -0800
From: erin1@uclink4.berkeley.edu (Erin Harvey Moody)
Subject: hook & eye tape

There are several types of hook and eye tape. If you are looking for the
standard stuff on the roll (that usually comes with hooks that have white
epoxy over them) in the Bay area try: Poppy's in Oakland, Stone Mountain &
Daughter in Berkeley, and Britex in SF. Lacis in Berkeley carries it
without the epoxy finish.

However, the stuff you probably want is the LARGE hook and eye tape which
is better used for costuming (i.e. bodice closures) that is much stronger
and easier to use.  You have to order that from Richard the Thread. Perhaps
someone on the list can post the info, I dont have it with me here......

Erin Moody

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 95 12:38:42 HST
From: 00dc@pnet16.navy.mil (Et2 Warthen)
Subject: Re: Authentic Green Specs

cwood@primenet.com (Ysabeau) was looking for info on authentic specs.

My father lives in Taiwan and visits regularly.  His next visit is in
December.  The last time he came, he brought me two pair of 19th century
sunglasses he had acquired in China.  They are cast bronze, with a hinge in
the middle of the earpiece.  They don't curve around the ear, but rest on top,
with a round flat piece that keeps them from sliding off.  The are thick green
glass, one with oval lenses, one with round.  They don't have nosepieces, just
kinda rest there.  They are not very light, and (more than) slightly
uncomfortable.  

If you are interested in a pair, e-mail me and I will see what I can do.  If
he can get a couple of pair to bring with him, I will have him do so if you
desire.

Stephanie

INET: 00dc@pnet16.navy.mil

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 15:35:12 -0700
From: cwood@primenet.com
Subject: 19th Century Costume Balls

By accident I nuked the message from the person in New Mexico looking for
info on costume balls. If you are still out there could you e-mail me off list? 

I have a friend who is putting together a costume ball at Fort Verde,
Arizona in the Spring and she wanted to get in contact with your organization.

Thanks


Cynthia

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 14:57:07 -0800
From: Joan Broneske <unicorn@calweb.com>
Subject: 1860's Children's Clothing

Once again, I need your collective expertise:

What would a boy of 7 wear during the first half of the 1860's?  I have =
seen a boy in a Zouave jacket and pants in one book (the pants kind of =
looked like bullfighter's pants, they came sort of tight into just below =
the knee).  Is this proper?  I have also been told that they would have =
dressed like little men.  Would they have worn a frock coat and =
waistcoat like the gentlemen for dress?

What would they have worn to play in, for travelling in or for day wear =
(going into town with Mother).

Thanks for all your help

Joan Broneske

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 14:59:34 -0800
From: Joan Broneske <unicorn@calweb.com>
Subject: Raiments

I know that Gary from Raiments has posted on here a few times and I have =
heard people talking back and forth about Raiments.  I have an old =
catalogue of theirs (a couple of years old) and there are some things I =
would like to order, but am not sure if the price has gone up.  Does =
Raiments have an e-mail address or web page where they can be contacted, =
or do they prefer by snail mail or phone?

If anyone knows anything about this, please let me know.

Thanks,

Joan Broneske

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 15:05:32 -0800 (PST)
From: Kimberly Smay <smay@lclark.edu>
Subject: re: hook and eye tape

If you can't find hook and eye tape locally, Greenberg and Hammer in new 
york have it, including some with two rows of eyes.
Kimberly Smay

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 15:33:39 -0800
From: erin1@uclink4.berkeley.edu (Erin Harvey Moody)
Subject: Tea

Is anyone on the list attending the "Age of Innocence Tea" in San Francsico
this weekend, and what are you wearing?  I would like to meet any other
list people who might be there....

Erin Moody

P.S. Thanks Sally, I got my tickets already!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 16:37:50 -0800
From: erin1@uclink4.berkeley.edu (Erin Harvey Moody)
Subject: Re: Tea

I'll be wearing an Autumn tone paisley velveteen late 1870s with jet trim
and rust colored walking skirt (last worn at Costume Con '94). My friend
Lisa will be wearing an 1876 sky blue dress with a cobalt blue walking
skirt from Harpers. Both of us picked up those shoes at Nordstroms I
mentioned on the list while they were on sale. Perfect for late Victoria.
Please be sure to introduce yourself if I don't see you first. Since it is
tea, I assume hats and gloves are the thing.....

Erin

I'll be wearing a late
>          1870's/early 1880's gown in dark blue brocade and satin I
>          made from a pattern in the book "The Evolution of Fashion".
>          What about you?
>
>          Loren Dearborn
>          ldearborn@calacademy.org

------------------------------

Date: 27 Nov 95 16:54:09 -0800
From: "SNORTON.US.ORACLE.COM" <SNORTON@us.oracle.com>
Subject: Age of Innocence Tea

 
I've been busy putting together a fashion show for the  
Cameron Stanford House in Oakland (1837-1917).  So -- I 
haven't had a chance to make a bustle gown.  I have the 
fabric and pattern.  They occupy a place of honour on the 
floor! 
 
The costume period for the tea is 1870 - 1905. I might be 
the only Edwardian attending.  I'll be in a blouse and 
walking skirt in a tiny poppy/blue print on an ecru background 
and a cream coloured hat. 
 
The tea has sold very well. We will certainly be elegant. 
 
 
Sally 
snorton@US.oracle.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 18:37:17 -0700
From: cwood@primenet.com
Subject: Age of Innocence Tea

>I'll be wearing an Autumn tone paisley velveteen late 1870s with jet trim
>and rust colored walking skirt (last worn at Costume Con '94). My friend
>Lisa will be wearing an 1876 sky blue dress with a cobalt blue walking
>skirt from Harpers. Both of us picked up those shoes at Nordstroms I
>mentioned on the list while they were on sale. Perfect for late Victoria.
>Please be sure to introduce yourself if I don't see you first. Since it is
>tea, I assume hats and gloves are the thing.....
>
>Erin
>
>I'll be wearing a late
>>          1870's/early 1880's gown in dark blue brocade and satin I
>>          made from a pattern in the book "The Evolution of Fashion".
>>          What about you?
>>
>>          Loren Dearborn
>>          ldearborn@calacademy.org
>
>
Ahhhh...I wish I could go, but alas, here I am in Arizona too too far away.
I am happy to see, though, that someone else is doing the late 70s and 80s.
I am trying to get together clothes for that period, but I am having a hard
time finding information on that time frame. If any of you ladies have any
advice you could give me, I would be very grateful if you could contact me
off list.

Have a lovely time!

Ysabeau

cwood@primenet.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 20:42:14 -0500
From: ASchell576@aol.com
Subject: Re: Hook and eye tape

i believe "raiments" carries it and I know Amazon Dry Goods does as well as
Richard the Thread.....I know Richard the Thread is in LA though I do not
have their address. Raiments isin Pasadena. the phone number is
(818)-797-2723 and Amazon  Dry Goods is in Iowa @ 319-322-6800. Hope this
helps....I love hook and Eye tape too it's great for costumes and lasts much
longer than zippers.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 20:22:27 -0600
From: "Mike O'Toole" <motoole@ucomnet.Unibase.COM>
Subject: Re: footcloths

On 27 Nov 95 at 11:35, reaves@tuvok.marian.edu ,who is a wonderful 
human being said;


> The earliest surviving socks date  back to the early Coptic period, made
> with nalbindung, while knitted socks survive from about the eighth century.

What exactly is 'nalbindung'?  I have seen it used in conjunction 
with a pattern for making Viking footware (it was spelled 
nailbinding) on the web.

Thanks for any help.

Mike O'Toole
@ Regina, SK Canada
@ motoole@ucomnet.unibase.com
@ Listen to Realtime on CBC Stereo Saturday evening 7-12

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 21:32:38 -0700 (MST)
From: Uncle Peach & Costume Witch <COSLETTS@ZIAVMS.ENMU.EDU>
Subject: Re-Hook and Eye tape

Here's the address and phone # for RICHARD THE THREAD
8320 Melrose Ave.
West Hollywood, CA  90069
800-473-4997 or 213-8524997, FAX:213-852-1604

They carry all kinds of fasteners and I'm sure they offer hook and eye tape.
Good luck
Roxanne
Roxanne's Creations
Portales, NM

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Nov 1995 04:13:43 EST
From: bglickman@eckert.acadcomp.monroecc.edu
Subject: Raiments >>> AlterYears

According to an ad on p. 92 of the new _Threads_ (Dec'95-Jan'96),
Raiments has changed names to AlterYears.

They advertise patterns, books and supplies, "accessories and underpinnings".
160 p catalog $5; Also states "visit our new store": 
3749 E. Colorado Blvd.  Pasadena CA  91107
phone (818) 585-2994,  Fax (818) 432-4530

"The usual disclaimers, etc."; just passing on info.  TTFN, Bonnie G.   B)
- -------------------------------------------------|=|=|--------
 Bonnie Glickman                                 =|=|=
 Bio. Dept.; Monroe Comm. Coll.                  |=|=|
 Rochester, NY  14623   (716) 292-2725           =|=|=  
 email:  bglickman@eckert.acadcomp.monroecc.edu  |=|=|

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Nov 1995 11:26:29 -0500 (EST)
From: TC Carstensen <tc0@s1.GANet.NET>
Subject: Late 1870's Clothing (was: Re: Age of Innocence Tea)

On Mon, 27 Nov 1995 cwood@primenet.com wrote:
> I am happy to see, though, that someone else is doing the late 70s and 80s.
> I am trying to get together clothes for that period, but I am having a hard
> time finding information on that time frame. 

Aggravating, isn't it?   I get especially frustrated with the historical 
pattern companies since all the gown patterns I've seen seem to skip 
directly from 1876 to 1883, completely overlooking the cuirass form era.  
At least The Mantua Maker makes patterns for underwear appropriate to 
that time.  Raiments carries that line of patterns.

> If any of you ladies have any
> advice you could give me, I would be very grateful if you could contact me
> off list.

Or on the list, too - I'm sure that there are others of us who would be 
interested as well.  :)

The best resource I've found for that era is a bunch of old Harper's 
Bazars and a copy of Frank Leslie's Ladies' Magazine that I picked up.  
Not only do they show pictures of the gowns, they give advice on  
appropriate hairstyles, accessories, and even underwear.  They are a 
fairly complete guide to fashion back then.  The ads in the back 
contain some useful tidbits,too, like approximately when coiled springs 
came into use as corset stays.  I will be scanning these and setting up a 
web page for them as soon as I can find the time.  In the meanwhile, you 
should get your hands on Stella Blum's book on fashions from Harper's 
Bazar that Dover puts out.  Her book covers most of the second half of 
the 19th century, and it has a nice chapter on the cuirass form era.

Another source is old novels.  I just read Edith Wharton's _The 
Buccaneers_, and picked up a couple interesting bits of information.  At 
one point in the novel, an older female character frets about the closer 
fitting fashions of 1880 or so.  She is concerned that far too much of a 
woman's legs is revealed by not having several layers of petticoats and 
crinolines between her and the world.  She is further shocked by the 
suggestion of one her daughters that modern young women dispensed with 
petticoats entirely in order to reduce bulk under their skirts.  Since 
Edith Wharton was a young woman herself during that time period, I assume 
she knew what she was talking about.


Good luck!

TC Carstensen
********************************************************************
It's a good thing I wasn't around in 1885 when women wore such 
exaggerated bustles that they looked like little centaurs.  I would have 
had a hard time not whinnying while wearing one.  :)

------------------------------

End of H-Costume Digest V3 #261
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