From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V3 #263 Reply-To: h-costume Sender: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Thursday, November 30 1995 Volume 3, Number 263 Compilation copyright (C) 1995 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: Re: Leather Sources Re: book search Amish Shoes Need assistance with Scottish Women's Garb 1200-1500's Cavalier style boots Re: Leather Sources Green glasses RAGS Home Page Blacksmiths' shirts Vintage dance classes in San Francisco Bay Area Fan language nalbinding/knitting Re: Hook & Eye Tape late 19c corsets Re: Renaissance faire garb...go Russian! RE: Blacksmiths' shirts Re: Hook and eye "tape" Re: hook & eye tape Re: hook & eye tape ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 29 Nov 95 09:08:27 CST From: "Maureen Martinez" Subject: Re: Leather Sources We buy all of our leather from : The Leather Factory 5710 Mobud St. San Antonio, Texas 78268 1-800-541-2031 They typically have better prices than Tandy, and will mail order. In fact, they are usually very speedy, and are good about returns. You can buy whole hides, dyed or undyed, and all the leather working tools. Give them a call for a catalog. Jenny Winslow mka Maureen Martinez ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Nov 1995 08:24:42 -0800 From: erin1@uclink4.berkeley.edu (Erin Harvey Moody) Subject: Re: book search Dennis. I own that book (sorry not parting with it). It is wonderful. I can't remember where I picked it up, and I have had it for years. Try calling Black Oak Books, 510-486-0698 in Berkeley CA. They do book searches, and acquisitions of rare and out of print books. They also have large new & used areas, including a decent costuming section where I have picked up some treasures. Good Luck. Erin >i am looking for a book entitle "In the Russian Style" I got a chance to look >through it a couple of years ago but have not seen it since. It is an >absolutely wonderful book that I would love to add to my collection and if >anyone knows where i could find it i would be very appreciative. > >thanks for your help, > >dennis :-) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Nov 1995 09:41:06 -0800 (PST) From: Elizabeth Fox Subject: Amish Shoes Someone was asking about old fashioned looking shoes sold by a place that caters to Amish. For whatever reason, this was mentioned in the December '93 issue of Allure. The shoes are very 19the century looking, with capped toes, low heel and are maybe 10" high. You can get them from Gohn Bros., Box 111, Middlebury Indiana 46540-01111 phone 219/825-2400. Their catalog just lists prices, no pictures, but these boots are really cool. I keep saying I'm going to get a pair. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Nov 95 13:22:25 EST From: CS23001@MAINE.maine.edu (Lisa A. Tyson) Subject: Need assistance with Scottish Women's Garb 1200-1500's I am hoping to find someone to correspond with, via this forum or by private e-mail, regarding what a Scottish woman would have worn in the 1200's-1500's. I have done some research regarding what was worn by lowland and highland women, though there is precious little documentation available before 1500's (that I have discovered). I have been fortunate to find a few pictures by french artists showing the costume of the Scots. I realize that Scottish women of the upper classes wore what was the fashion of the time. There would also be a distinction between highland and lowland clothing fashions. I have some documentation from books (not with me at the moment) about what women wore. It has been suggested that I look at earlier sources of Irish garb to model the earlier Scottish garb from, which seems like a reasonable suggestion. My goal is to attain costuming appropriate for summer / fall-winter-spring wear (since I am in a northern climate). The clothing will be for wear to SCA events. I thought it would be nicer to stay in the same nationality of my persona, just change time period depending on the time of year and activity I am engaged in (setting up camp versus attending court). I'll try to get together a brief compilation of the resources I've seen in another week or so after I complete other work. I would welcome speaking to anyone with any experience in this area. Thank you in anticipation... Lisa A. Tyson aka "Bryn MacLachlan" ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Nov 95 13:41:14 EST From: CS23001@MAINE.maine.edu (Lisa A. Tyson) Subject: Cavalier style boots Am seeking either a pattern or order information on where to obtain those lovely tall (black) Cavalier style boots. The boots I have in mind are cut to mid thigh and are well fit to the leg. They fold down to reveal a coloured satin lining inside. Would desire a man's boot (for my husband). What I _*REALLY*_ want is a boot that behaves like a sneaker for stability and traction in fencing. I've considered taking a shot at modifying something that can fit over a pair of sneakers (or similar shoe) but I am afraid the end result will look too 'chunky'. I will be happy with something that just goes over the knee. I have seen two versions of this style boot in Museum Replicas, with the less pointy toed style probably being more appropriate for fencing. I know that I am most likely to find something already manufactured at $100++. I have seen various boots that fit below the knee through other catalogs. I would appreciate your suggestions on where to find such boots _and_ how appropriate this would be to late 1500's-early 1600's. My husband's persona is English, late 1500's. I believe this might belong better to 1620's--> onwards. Thank you.. Lisa A. Tyson aka "Bryn MacLachlan" Catalog Addict ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Nov 1995 14:19:55 -0500 From: GDresback@aol.com Subject: Re: Leather Sources Hi all, Would anyone know if there is a source of Horse hide out there? I would love to be able to get some for making some repro German WWI packs. Any ideas? Thanks, Glen ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Nov 1995 15:45:26 -0800 From: triciaa@cats.ucsc.edu Subject: Green glasses Hello, I have a copy of Pierce Egan's _Life in London_ (~1820) and one of the characters wears green glasses. Tricia triciaa@cats.ucsc.edu ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Nov 1995 16:46:05 -0800 From: shepgibb@mcn.org Subject: RAGS Home Page I am proud to announce the debut of my Home Page which, amongst other things, will give you access to over 25 costume and textile sites, both exhibits and information. Hope you enjoy browsing through it. R.L. Shep ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Nov 1995 10:06:56 -0700 From: hill@cs.uwyo.edu (Robin Hill) Subject: Blacksmiths' shirts Does anyone have suggestions to offer regarding shirts for working blacksmiths, late 19th-century, American West? If not, I will just use one of the standard workmen's shirt patterns from one of the standard companies--for instance, the Folkwear Missouri River Boatmen's shirt, a pattern I know I can lay my hands on locally. Any pointers regarding other aspects of blacksmiths' clothing would be appreciated. I assume, for instance, that wool would be the fabric of choice, for the same reasons that we have been discussing for cooks' petticoats--fire resistance. -- Robin Hill hill@cs.uwyo.edu ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Nov 1995 20:07:26 -0800 (PST) From: Allan Terry Subject: Vintage dance classes in San Francisco Bay Area VINTAGE DANCE CLASSES The East Bay Vintage Dance Society schedule for December through February is: December 2: Mazurka variations taught by Allan Terry & Frances Grimble December 9: Victorian dance taught by Stan Isaacs December 16: SPECIAL RENAISSANCE CANARY WORKSHOP taught by Terry & Grimble The late 16th-century canary as a complete dance, including step variations, figures & styling; $8 December 23: NO CLASS--CHRISTMAS December 30: NO CLASS--NEW YEAR'S January 6: Victorian dance taught by Stan Isaacs January 13: Victorian ballroom versions of folk dances: Redowa, redowaczka, and krakoviak taught by Terry & Grimble January 20: Victorian dance taught by Stan Isaacs January 27: 5/4 waltz variations taught by Terry & Grimble: Five-step polka redowa, 5/4 with racket & more February 3: Ragtime dance February 10: Ragtime dance February 17: Ragtime dance February 24: Ragtime dance All dance variations are researched from original sources, some especially for this class. We do our best to always teach fresh and interesting material, and to teach good styling. All classes will be held on Saturday mornings, 10:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. at St. Johns Presbyterian Church 2727 College Avenue, Room 203 Berkeley, California The price is $6/person. No partner required. This is a regular series of weekly classes that will continue in upcoming months. For further information, call Allan Terry at 415/566-6259 or send e-mail to aterry@teknowledge.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Nov 1995 20:32:20 -0800 (PST) From: Allan Terry Subject: Fan language Kelly, Re your message (below): In a message dated 95-11-27 00:21:52 EST, you write: > They [rules of fan language] were not >used in real life in any period. > > Are you sure of that? I have heard and read that it was. Kelly Albrecht According to _Fans_, by Helene Alexander (B. T. Batsford 1984): "The language of the fan is a conceit which excites the imagination of many people, but it seems that eighteenth-century allusions are not to be taken too seriously, and Joseph Addison's (1672-1719) article in the _Spectator_ of 27 June, 1711 is purely satirical. . . .It is very probable that the code or codes known as the "language of the fan" are a nineteenth-century invention, developed by the Parisian fan-maker J. Duvelleroy. Forms of communication through the fan and with the fan did exist, but were more in the nature of a party game." In _A Collector's Guide to Fans_ (Wellfleet Books 1990), Susan Mayor says: "Jokey fans such as "Fanology" fascinated late fan collectors; Duvelleroy even published a leaflet called "The Language of the Fan." Fran Grimble ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Nov 1995 23:53:56 -0500 From: NeenH@aol.com Subject: nalbinding/knitting Nalbinding is knitting without loops or needles. The basic stitch is done much like duplicate stitch embroidery on knit fabric...you have a needle threaded with a length of yarn, you then go down the right side of the stitch in the previos row, and up on the left side of that stitch, draw tight, then do the same to the stitch on your right. This looks JUST like twisted stockinette stitch. In fact, it seems that many OLD socks, previosly identified as knitted were actually nalbinded. A skillled person can tell be increases, decreases and/or the number of ends worked in (nalbinding as zillions of them). The stitches are formed upside down relative to ordinary knitting, and the fabric grows up, rather than hanging down. It's pretty cool! On circular knitting, most patterns will show no seam. A few will (well, since there are infinite variations on patterns, it's technically more than a few) show the join, but standard ribbing and plain knit show NO SEAMS when worked in the round. This can be such a problem, that many people use a marker that gets passed from needle to needle to show were it would be, if it were there. In some patterns, esp. colorwork , the round change is very visible, but it is still at an arbitrary place...the knitting is still a spiral. NeenH ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Nov 1995 01:00:18 -0500 From: Mazelle@aol.com Subject: Re: Hook & Eye Tape Ihave been told of a good source for hook and eye tape by the roll and for a very good price. Home-Sew P.O. Box 4099 Bethlehem, PA 18018 (215)-867-3833 Mazelle Neal Alysia Gabrielle de Fougeres Lady A's Custom Design Mazelle@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: 30 Nov 95 11:32:37 EST From: Dee Wilson <100545.3105@compuserve.com> Subject: late 19c corsets Recently Glenna wrote : <<> I agree that as the 19c progressed, corsets, along with many other aspects of daily life seemed to get stricter for the sake of it, rather than a real reason. For instance, the attitudes to unmarried mothers, prison life, treatment of servants, treatments for constipation - all seemed to be less relaxed in the later 19c. I can provide details for those who disbelieve ! Why was it that late 19c fashions demanded a "more brutal" corset when technology was enabling greater comfort in the home ? Also, medical and health knowledge was rapidly increasing throughout W Europe and the US. Dee 100545.3105@compuserve.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Nov 1995 09:30:13 -0800 From: denikai@ix.netcom.com (Marie Denikas ) Subject: Re: Renaissance faire garb...go Russian! The questions dealt with the Briston faire specifically, and that faire is historical. They would not have a participant in Russian Court garb, but patrons can wear anything they want. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Nov 95 11:09:30 PST From: ches@tristero.io.com Subject: RE: Blacksmiths' shirts >Does anyone have suggestions to offer regarding shirts for working >blacksmiths, late 19th-century, American West? >>snip<< My grandfather was the general fixit man and cook for the Chisom trail rides. For smithy work he wore what is today called a man's undershirt. It was sleeveless with a low cut front and back. On top of that he wore an old buffalo hide from one they skinned themselves. I do not know what the regular blacksmiths that lived in one place wore but this is what my grandfather wore on the road, so to speak. Ciao @}\ Ches @}----`--,-- @}/ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Nov 1995 14:11:40 -0500 (EST) From: charles godfrey Subject: Re: Hook and eye "tape" On Sun, 26 Nov 1995 MonicaShen@aol.com wrote: > Hello all, > > I was wondering if any of you in the San Francisco Bay Area know where to buy > hook and eye "tape". I've seen something similar for snaps. I'm hoping to > find fabric strips with hooks already sewn on one strip and eyes already sewn > on the other. That way you just sew the whole thing onto a dress and don't > need to sew (and line up) the hooks and eyes individually. > > Have any of you tried using this on the back of a Victorian bodice? Or is it > just plain easier to sew the hooks and eyes separately? > > Thanks for your help! > > Monica > monicashen@aol.com > I live in North Carolina and have been unable to find hook and eye tape anywhere. I have been looking for it for at least 2 years. Does anyone know of a mail order house to get it? Thanks. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Nov 1995 14:21:03 -0500 (EST) From: charles godfrey Subject: Re: hook & eye tape On Mon, 27 Nov 1995, Erin Harvey Moody wrote: > > However, the stuff you probably want is the LARGE hook and eye tape which > is better used for costuming (i.e. bodice closures) that is much stronger > and easier to use. You have to order that from Richard the Thread. Perhaps > someone on the list can post the info, I dont have it with me here...... > > Erin Moody > Anyone have this address? Thanks ahead of time if you do and can send it to me as well. Derek ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Nov 1995 11:24:45 -0800 From: erin1@uclink4.berkeley.edu (Erin Harvey Moody) Subject: Re: hook & eye tape Okay, I have the info with me today: Richard the Thread (800)473-4997 8320 Melrose Ave #201 Los Angeles CA 90069 Erin >> However, the stuff you probably want is the LARGE hook and eye tape which >> is better used for costuming (i.e. bodice closures) that is much stronger >> and easier to use. You have to order that from Richard the Thread. Perhaps >> someone on the list can post the info, I dont have it with me here...... >> >> Erin Moody >> >Anyone have this address? Thanks ahead of time if you do and can send it >to me as well. > >Derek ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V3 #263 ******************************* A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!