From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V3 #265 Reply-To: h-costume Sender: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Monday, December 4 1995 Volume 3, Number 265 Compilation copyright (C) 1995 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: Burgundian 1450 & Gilded Pearl Re: Cavalier style boots Re: Reviving dulled silk Fwd: US university presses: 65,000 book titles on-line Information "Turned" shoes Re: "Turned" shoes Ruching ruching Oh, Thank you. Re: "Turned" shoes Need E-Mail address for Guild Mistress of Gilded Pearl fan & nalbinding info Frock Coats Re: "Turned" shoes Origins of Velvet Age of Innocence Tea report Re: "Turned" shoes (fwd) Re: Information - 18th Century Gown ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 01 Dec 95 14:13:51 EST From: sgigate.sgi.com!smtpgwy.dlx.com!dlxibm!Liz_Jones Subject: Burgundian 1450 & Gilded Pearl David Brewer wrote on Nov 21: "Having asked the list for info regarding gloves and been pleasantly surprised by the volume of response, I'd like to ask more generally for pointers to sources regarding costume as a whole for, ideally,1460s England or, more loosely, for late medieval northern europe." This request coincides nicely with one I would like to make. In the SCA, my name is Mistress (Maestra) Damiana Illaria d'Onde, and I am the Guild Mistress of an organization entitled the Gilded Pearl. We are dedicated to the general study of the Renaissance 1450-1650. At present we are in the East Kingdom and have about 65 members. Many of us have serious costuming interests, but we pursue all studies equally. In the past we have held two events in conjunction with other groups, and will be doing this again in 1996. The field of emphasis this year will be Burgundian 1450, and I am looking for any information (obviously costume-related here) from any interested parties. On February 3rd we will be holding a university in CT and will have about 12 sessions for our focus. Some of these will be on costume. My own class will be concentrating on men's clothing from this period, and inspired by a drawing by Marco Zoppo of three men: Burgundian, Italian and German all in very fashionable clothing of the period. As I have constructed that of the Italian, I thought to at least pursue mockups of the other two to provide patterns. Any thoughts on this or other related issues? In October we will be hosting an event with a group in Upstate NY, and hope to put all this learning to good use. I also hope to attract other guilds, and inspire general study for a longer period of time than many of us enjoy. I know that I typically bounce around quite a bit, but have already had the pleasure of concentrating on this project for a few months. We also hope to repeat many of these classes at the Pennsic War, but would love to invite others to join our study. If you have any costume-related information, please post it here. If you have other interests, or know of sources, literature, etc., to help us please email me directly. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 1 Dec 1995 16:40:39 -0800 (PST) From: Dianne Karp Subject: Re: Cavalier style boots On Thu, 30 Nov 1995, charles godfrey wrote: > > > On Wed, 29 Nov 1995, Lisa A. Tyson wrote: > > > Am seeking either a pattern or order information on where to > > obtain those lovely tall (black) Cavalier style boots. > > > I have been on this same quest for sometime. I can't afford Amazon Dry > > Anyone with a suggestion let me know. Thanks. > > Derek Try the Fredericks of Holliwood catalog. They have a nice thigh high boot with no heel (eg very low) that goes up to a women's size 13.> Dianne ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 2 Dec 1995 09:06:08 -0800 (PST) From: Catherine Kehl Subject: Re: Reviving dulled silk On Fri, 1 Dec 1995, Erin Harvey Moody wrote: > I am not sure about the process dry cleaners might use on clothing, but I > read an article about cleaning clothes in a Martha Stewart magazine that > recommended using vinegar in the last rinse of silk washables to restore > lustre. Soapwort has been used by museums for restoring luster to antique silk. (Esp. lace, I believe.) Something about it strengthening the proteins.... (Isn't bad for hair, either.) It grows in my yard -- it's actually a fairly common weed even in cities, and is available in apocotharies. For the fresh plant take a handful of the finely chopped leaves, cover them with water and simmer them until foam rises. For the dried use less, but otherwise it's much the same. Catherine ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 2 Dec 1995 14:20:00 -0500 From: Tracy023@aol.com Subject: Fwd: US university presses: 65,000 book titles on-line Hello all, Found this on another list and thought it might be useful to costumers in the never ending search for more, better and different books. Tracy Wood - --------------------- Forwarded message: From: ugsingle@uxa.ecn.bgu.edu (Gregory Singleton) Sender: H-AMREL@MSU.EDU (H-Net American Religious History discussion group) Reply-to: H-AMREL@MSU.EDU (H-Net American Religious History discussion group) To: H-AMREL@MSU.EDU (Multiple recipients of list H-AMREL) Date: 95-12-01 07:26:53 EST From: H-Net Central A new global resource for scholars, librarians, writers, students, and book buyers has just been unveiled on the Internet by the Association of American University Presses (AAUP). The AAUP On-line Catalog contains fully searchable bibliographic data and descriptive text from more than fifty scholarly publishers. Currently, 65,000-plus titles are represented, and this number is expected to climb rapidly to more than 100,000 titles from nearly 100 presses. The entire contents of the on-line catalog can be searched over the Internet by author, title, keywords, and Library of Congress subject headlings. Searches can also be confined to specific subject areas or individual publishers. Access this resource via the World Wide Web or Gopher at: //aaup.princeton.edu or //press-gopher.uchicago.edu ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 2 Dec 1995 13:07:29 -0800 From: ryler@ix.netcom.com (RON RYLE ) Subject: Information I plan on making a 18th centuary gown for my senior prom. I want it to be as exzact as possible can you give me any pointers on what to do and how to accomplish this. For example they didn't cut most of the fabric they just layered it. How can I get the same look but be able to cut and sew the fabric? What colors are best for a fress of this sort? things like this. Thanx for helping me out.. Colleen ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 2 Dec 1995 17:25:35 -0600 (CST) From: BPH3213@ACS.TAMU.EDU Subject: "Turned" shoes I have come across the term "turned" several times in my research, mostly in reference to clothing. In that case I interpret it to mean cloth which had been unstitched, flipped, and re-sewn. However, I've now also seen it used for shoes. Are there other definitions for turning I have missed, or were shoes flipped too? Bryan Baloo@tamu.edu ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 03 Dec 1995 01:49:18 GMT From: David Brewer Subject: Re: "Turned" shoes In message <951202172535.2242a582@ACS.TAMU.EDU> BPH3213@ACS.TAMU.EDU writes: > I have come across the term "turned" several times in my research, mostly > in reference to clothing. In that case I interpret it to mean cloth > which had been unstitched, flipped, and re-sewn. However, I've now > also seen it used for shoes. Are there other definitions for turning > I have missed, or were shoes flipped too? > Bryan Baloo@tamu.edu A turned shoe, (in reference to medieval shoes) means a shoe that is stiched inside out and then turned so that the "grain" side of the leather is on the outside, and the stitching is hidden inside. Given that the (cow belly) hide used for the soles is pretty thick, it helps to soak it overnight. This gets replaced as a measure by "welted" shoes in the 16th? 17th? century. I would have assumed that "turned" clothing was much the same: you stitch it up right-side-in, and turn right-side-out with the stiching hidden inside (like, er, pretty much how *all* clothing is made). Obviously I've no idea what the context is that you've seen this term used in, so I might just be talking out of my arse. - -- David Brewer ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 3 Dec 1995 10:27:24 -0800 From: Joan Broneske Subject: Ruching Could someone explain how to do ruching, like what was used on dresses in 1870's? Joan Broneske ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 3 Dec 1995 13:58:19 -0600 (CST) From: VICKI@lib.uttyl.edu Subject: ruching I have an original late 1860's bodice with three inch wide self ruching around the bottom of the basque, just about a self ruffle. It has a plain rolled hem on the upper side, and the bottom of the ruche is just turned under and the folded edge handstitched into place. There are five lines of 1/8" running stitches which both hold the gather in place and connect through the dress fabric and the lining. The upper edge of the ruche, about 1/2 inch of it, is left loose to ruffle. The ruche was cut on the bias. This is a fairly common middle-class type dress, partly machine and partly hand sewn, so if you are working on a fancier dress perhaps the finishing techniques may differ. Correction--the third line should read "just above a self ruffle." This mail program will not allow me to back up. Vicki Betts vicki@lib.uttyl.edu ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 3 Dec 1995 20:03:56 -0500 From: SyRilla@aol.com Subject: Oh, Thank you. Friends, I want to thank everyone that has responded with information on Flax. I will be able to use most every part. Now the only hard part is finding a company (within 2 days) that will send me a sample. So much for trying to do this ahead of time. Ugggg Merry Christmas, Kimberly SyRilla@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 3 Dec 1995 18:03:41 -0800 From: gwjchris@ix.netcom.com (Bill and Glenna Christen ) Subject: Re: "Turned" shoes You wrote: >A turned shoe, (in reference to medieval shoes) means a shoe that is >stiched inside out and then turned so that the "grain" side of the >leather is on the outside, and the stitching is hidden inside. From what cordwainers (e.g. shoe makers as opposed to shoe menders, cobblers) have told me you are approximately right. Ladies pumps for example are "turned" so the seams, where the uppers are attached to the soles are on the inside, with the soles neatly tucked under the shoe all around. This is instead of the welted sole which you see on sturdy work boots etc. where the upper is stitched on the outside to the sole along the outside edge. The grain isn't an issue I don't think, it's more a matter of how neat and delicate or sturdy and long wearing is the resulting shoe or boot. Glenna Jo Christen gwjchris@ix.netcom.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 04 Dec 95 11:56:09 EST From: CS23001@MAINE.maine.edu (Lisa A. Tyson) Subject: Need E-Mail address for Guild Mistress of Gilded Pearl Guild Mistress Damiana Illaria d'Onde wrote to request information from people about Burgundian costume. I was uncertain what her e-mail address exactly was from the self-encrypting header that I received. Thus I would politely request that she repost her email address (or please contact me directly). I would like to contact her requesting general information about the Gilded Pearl. I also hope she can assist me with contacting the person who heads the East Kingdom embroidery guild, Athena's Thimble. - -- Lisa aka "Bryn" ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 4 Dec 1995 13:14:23 -0500 From: reaves@tuvok.marian.edu (Anne Reaves) Subject: fan & nalbinding info Fans: Those interested in seeing fine examples should note the fan gallery in the V&A. For information on how to make and assemble a fan, read Christine Springett's DESIGNING AND MOUNTING LACE FANS, a 1985 pamphlet available from The British College of Lace 21 Hillmorton Road, Rugby, Warwickshire CV22 5DF, England (tel. 0788 544691). This is primarily targeted for lacemakers, but the information can be applied to other fans. The Springetts also sell lovely wooden fansticks. Nalbinding: Here are two good sources for historical information. Nordland, Odd. PRIMITIVE SCANDINAVIAN TEXTILES IN KNOTLESS NETTING. Oslo: Oslo UP. Nogt, Emil. "Geflechte und Gewebe der Steinzeit" MONOGRAPHIEN ZUR UR- UND FRUHGESCHICHTE DER SCHWEIZ. Basel, 1937. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 04 Dec 95 10:42:24 PST From: Stacey_Weinberger@wadsworth.com Subject: Frock Coats Could you please recommend an historical costumer in the San Francisco Bay Area who makes civilian frock coats 1855-1860. Also is there much of a difference in frock coats from 1850 to 1855, 1855 to 1860, and 1860 to 1863, and if so what are they? Thank you very much, Stacey Stacey_Weinberger@wadsworth.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 04 Dec 95 16:10:26 EST From: "Stephen Davis" Subject: Re: "Turned" shoes The "turned" method of shoe construction is medieval, although it continues to be in use today - generally for finer quality footwear such as women's pumps and men's dress shoes. Archaeologically speaking, we first see the emergence of the welted shoe on sites dating circa 1500-1525. These shoes are sometimes referred to as "turn-welts" since the method of sole attachment is by turning, yet a narrow strip of leather, the welt,was inserted into the seam with the sole stitches. Initially, this welt helped to strengthen and create a water tight seam. Eventually, it must have occurred to the cobbler (not the shoemaker or cordwainer) that a repair sole could be attached directly to this ridge of leather. Parks Canada has a large collection of 16th-century and 18th-century footwear recovered from our National historic archaeological sites. Some of these display the various sole attachments described above and may be consulted by researchers interested in the development of footwear manufacture. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 05 Dec 1995 09:57:52 +1000 From: Sarah Randles Subject: Origins of Velvet >From: Susan Fatemi >Subject: Re: H-Costume Digest V3 #262 > >More 2c. this time on velvet. As velvet is a pile-woven textile, like rugs, >I would guess that it may have originated in the "east", possibly Persia >or Mamluk Egypt. Turkey had very elaborate and beautiful velvets from some- >what later than the 13th-14th c. dates given for Spain and Italy. it is possible that velvets originated in subsaharan Africa. The Igbirra people of Nigeria make raffia cut velvet fabrics, traditionally used for baby ties as well as other functions. (Velvet is a type of weave, rather than a fibre type - it's possible to make velvet out of any fibre.) However, given the climate in this area, and the lack of a written language until recently, it's not possible to date this type of textile from before these people had contact with Islam, so it's equally possible that the influence went the other way. Sarah **************************************************************************** ******** Sarah Randles ser@adminserver.canberra.edu.au Research Office Phone: (06) 201 2955 University of Canberra Fax: (06) 201 5381/5999 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 4 Dec 1995 15:34:56 -0800 From: erin1@uclink4.berkeley.edu (Erin Harvey Moody) Subject: Age of Innocence Tea report Several people asked me to report on this event so I will here. The Age of Innocence Tea was held at the Sheraton Palace Hotel in San Francisco Saturday afternoon. The Palace was built in the late 1800s and we had our tea in the spectacular Garden Court, complete with Holiday decorations. There were over 30 attendees, including a few members on this list. Tea was laid out for us in small groupings of tables and plush chairs and sofas. The tables were laid with silver place settings, flowers, and a beautiful array of tea sandwiches and delicate desserts. We were able to order selections of tea (over 15!) from a gold embossed menu. There were so many lovely gowns (and handsomely dressed gentlemen) I don't know where to start, so I will start with the h-costume attendees. Loren Dearborn wore a dark blue early 1880s gown, very well tailored with knife pleated skirt and fitted brocade bodice. Her figure carried this "difficult" period wonderfully. Sally Norton wore an Edwardian with a full skirt and leg o'mutton sleeves, and a delightful hat. Sally's ivory print was a nice balance to all the black and burgundy gowns that were overwhelmingly popular. Several of the burgundy gowns had the same feeling of the recent "Dracula" film: severely tailored, mid 1880s, tall hats, etc. There was a striped (olive green and black) late 80s gown, I was impressed with how well her chevron alignment of the stripes OVER her corectly corseted bodice came out. A lady dressed in a silk Stuart plaid skirt and black velvet bodice with red soutache trim and silver buttons looked very seasonal. Costume wise it was one of the better dressed events I have attended in some time. The gentlemen came in top hats, canes, gloves, silk vests, pressed frock or tail coats, etc. Nearly all ladies were corseted, almost all from the bustle era. I was impressed with the amount of ruching and draping of the skirts, and of the "correct" accesories (muffs, hats, gloves, etc.). One lady dressed in a black silk with jet bead trim (quite nice) gown had on the most wonderful little bonnet I have seen. It could have stood up against a genuine period piece. It was a wonderful afternoon. I hope my pictures turn out and do the gowns justice (we actually took the time to pose for a group picture). Hopefully there will be more to come. Erin ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 04 Dec 1995 22:19:18 GMT From: david@westmore.demon.co.uk (David Brewer) Subject: Re: "Turned" shoes (fwd) Forwarded message follows: This appears to have sent to me, and not the list, by mistake. > Sorry, I should have provided context for my question on turned shoes > and clothes. All are from 1770's runaway descriptions. The use of the > term turned with clothing seems to indicate remaking the clothes by > flipping the cloth after wear, due to some references on color fading around > the cuffs where it was also lengthened, as well as some diary entries > referring to giving a coat to a tailor to get it turned and re-dressed. > > As for the shoes, I have found no mention anywhere but the descriptions, > and they generally only say turned shoes or turned pumps. > > If anyone has any ideas or references to this, please drop me a note. > Thanks, Bryan bph3213@acs.tamu.edu - -- David Brewer ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 4 Dec 1995 19:32:17 -0500 From: "Karen Mercedes" Subject: Re: Information - 18th Century Gown In message <199512022107.NAA07748@ix11.ix.netcom.com> RON RYLE writes: > I plan on making a 18th centuary gown for my senior prom. I want it to > be as exzact as possible can you give me any pointers on what to do and > how to accomplish this. For example they didn't cut most of the fabric > they just layered it. How can I get the same look but be able to cut > and sew the fabric? What colors are best for a fress of this sort? > things like this. Thanx for helping me out.. You can actually get patterns for this from Colonial Williamsburg -- the patterns are quite accurate historically (as they are into accurate historical recreation down there, not into just theatrical-style costuming). You can also buy fabrics from the shops down there -- and at least one shop I visited had made-up 18th Century gowns. I'd suggest you get in touch with Colonial Williamsburg, who should be able to direct you to the right person(s) for information. Let me know when you have to have the gown done by. I will be in Williamsburg at the end of December, and could probably find you the exact information if you can wait until then. Karen Mercedes mercedes@access.digex.net +--------------------------------+ | I think...therefore I'm single | +--------------------------------+ ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V3 #265 ******************************* A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!