From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V3 #269 Reply-To: h-costume Sender: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Monday, December 11 1995 Volume 3, Number 269 Compilation copyright (C) 1995 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: Re: Clothing Moths Re: Thigh boots Pattern publications Re: Pattern publications Ont. wool source Straw embroidery Vest and Suspender Buckles Ontario Wool sources Re: Ont. wool source re:moths Re: 18th C gowns and sporans Re: Clothing Moths Making stuff if you're in the SCA... Dough Beads dough beads Re: Clothing Moths Making of Couture, VCR Alert for Dec 11, US channel VH1. Linen Re: Dough Beads ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 8 Dec 1995 10:46:08 -0800 (PST) From: Conrad Hodson Subject: Re: Clothing Moths A quick suggestion for a natural repellent. Bay leaves seem to work quite well. I hear that cockroaches don't like them either. If you can find a bay tree handy just pick them fresh. If not, try buying them from bulk bins. Should be cheaper. Good luck! Chris Prescott Children are hereditary. Chances are if your parents didn't have any you won't either. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Dec 1995 18:40:35 -0500 From: BBrisbane@aol.com Subject: Re: Thigh boots A note on shoe sizing - the difference between a man's and woman's size is generally 2 sizes. For example, I wear a size 7 women's, and a size 5 man's. There is also a width difference, men's being wider to the same length. So a man with a narrow size 10 foot would wear a women's size 12. Also, the larger shoe sizes in 'specialty' catalogs are sized for wider feet for men who do drag. Order a pair and try them - the price is certainly better. Ciao! Brenda ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Dec 1995 19:21:30 -0800 (PST) From: Allan Terry Subject: Pattern publications Loren Dearborn asked if there is any place to get the Cabinet of Vintage Patterns patterns other than Amazon Drygoods. I don't think so. They used to be sold only (as far as I know) by a company of that name. Amazon bought the rights a long time ago--I think I saw an article in _Sew News_ saying the patterns were "now available" from Amazon, at least a year ago. I have asked Amazon about them several times without getting a publication date. Does anyone on this list know whether Past Patterns has yet published the six new patterns (two corsets, a hoopskirt, a petticoat, and two others) that were supposed to be published in September? I never buy patterns anymore till I _know_ they're available. I've tied up my money in too many that didn't appear till a year after I ordered--if ever. Also, does anyone know whether Heidi Marsh Patterns has yet published their two new books, _Recipes and Remedies of the Era of the Hoop_ and _Styles for Mourning of the Era of the Hoop_, sceduled for December 1 publication? Thanks, Fran Grimble ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Dec 95 22:35 CST From: vbetts@gower.net (Vicki Betts) Subject: Re: Pattern publications At 07:21 PM 12/8/95 -0800, aterry@Teknowledge.COM wrote: >Does anyone on this list know whether Past Patterns has yet published the >six new patterns (two corsets, a hoopskirt, a petticoat, and two others) that >were supposed to be published in September? I never buy patterns anymore >till I _know_ they're available. I've tied up my money in too many that >didn't appear till a year after I ordered--if ever. > >Fran Grimble > At the reenactment at Nashville in late October, I heard that Sandra Aultman was in the process of moving, and that her new warehouse/storefront location was a total mess when she got there. It was going to take her longer to get in gear than she had thought, so the first pattern of the series, the wrapper (I think) was supposed to be coming out in December, not in October, which is the date she originally told me when I ordered several from the new series. Vicki Betts ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 9 Dec 1995 01:10:37 -0500 From: kl94ag@badger.ac.BrockU.CA (Kathleen Leggat) Subject: Ont. wool source >I am looking for sources of Melton Wool in Ontario, Canada. or Northern >New York State. Specifically, colours of greys, black, reds, Glengarry >green,(forest green) and navy blue, Can anyone help? We have checked >Lens Mills, Fabriclands in our area ( Southern Ontario) and we are at a >loss to find a supplier. The Wool suitings that we have seen are too >light weight for our needs, and we prefer the heavier weight of Melton. >We are planning on making several 1812 tunics, great coats, and pants, to >fill these long winter months. >Christine > In St. Catharines, Duthler's Textiles carries Melton. I'm not sure what colours they would have. It won't be cheap. If you want me to call for you, or check with JoAnn Fabrics in Niagara Falls, NY, just let me know and give me your email address. Kathleen (Catriona) "Teehee," quod she, and clapte the windowe to. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 9 Dec 1995 11:25:17 -0500 From: kl94ag@badger.ac.BrockU.CA (Kathleen Leggat) Subject: Straw embroidery I remember we had a discussion of how early straw embroidery started. I can't remember what we established for a starting date. While scanning through Janet Arnold's Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd (p. 198), I noticed an example of straw embroidery, dated early seventheeth century. Just wanted to mention it. Kathleen (Catriona) "Teehee," quod she, and clapte the windowe to. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 9 Dec 1995 13:11:43 -0500 From: MorellEtc@aol.com Subject: Vest and Suspender Buckles I am looking for a source for the two and three prong buckles used in the 19th and early 20th centuries for vests, suspenders & the small strap on the back of trousers. Does anyone out there know of a source. It would be much appreciated. Mike Morell, (Morell Etc.) ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 9 Dec 1995 15:25:10 -0500 (EST) From: Susan Carroll-Clark Subject: Ontario Wool sources Greetings! If you can brave Downtown Toronto, the Designer Fabric Outlet (1360 Queen West) has an excellent selection of wools on the second floor, including a selection of Meltons. There are also a number of fabric stores along Queen closer to Spadina that you might try. Cheers! Susan Carroll-Clark sclark@epas.utoronto.ca ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 9 Dec 1995 16:37:15 -0500 From: MorellEtc@aol.com Subject: Re: Ont. wool source I don't know about Ontario but you might try J. L. COOKE, 3 Ronald Circle, Spencerport, NT 14559 (716) 352-4730. She has all of the colors you are looking for and deals with many of the 1812 reenactors. Her colors are consistant from one lot to the next. If you are interested in a large order (15 or more yards of one color) contact Woolrich Co. in Woolrich, PA. Morell Etc. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 9 Dec 1995 14:51:12 -0800 (PST) From: Kimberly Smay Subject: re:moths Bug bombs are indeed avffective at killing a variety of insects. They are also very good at making human beings very sick. I am currently dealing with fleas in a house with two small children (one crawler). The info I obtained from metro(local recycling, etc) informed that inert ingredients in pesticides are only inert to the bugs not to you, your children or your pets. borax and boric acid in corners will prevent crawling pests. My organic pest control sheet suggests 1 part molasses to 2 parts vinegar in a yellow container for trapping moths. Kimberly Smay ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Dec 1995 02:16:23 -0500 From: NeenH@aol.com Subject: Re: 18th C gowns and sporans Thank you for the correction on the "Patterns of Fashion". I believe that you are right. I don't have the book, my library does, and I keep meaning to order it from Townsend...I think I used the 2nd volume, but I'm not sure. Sporans often were made at least partly of fur (think of the dress outfits of typical bagpipers). When I costumed my colleges production of Brigadoon, I was told a joke that managed to crack up or embarrass the entire cast....A sporan is the hairy thing hanging between a man's legs....awful, huh? NeenH ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Dec 1995 11:09:36 -0500 From: Carol Bier Subject: Re: Clothing Moths The Textile Museum offers free-of-charge a brochure called _PEST BUSTERS_. It explains pests in all phases of their life cycles and offers suggestions for household management. Send a self-addressed, stamped envelope to: The Textile Museum Conservation Department 2320 S Street, NW Washington, D.C. 20008. Carol Bier, Curator, Eastern Hemisphere Collections The Textile Museum. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Dec 1995 08:52:27 -0800 (PST) From: close (Diane Barlow Close) Subject: Making stuff if you're in the SCA... This was mis-sent to me, directly, so I'm passing it on to the list. Please send comments directly to the original author, Diana Dills : Diana Dills writes: Dear Krista: > Hello again! I'm wondering what type of material would be appropriate for > a wearable 12th Century English man's tunic...I don't want to spend tons of > money (as I don't have tons of money) but I'd like the right effect. Also > what colours would be appropriate? I make tunics for the SCA, and can give you a bunch of pointers...if you want historical authenticity, you need to find finely spun wool or linen--BUT, if the "Ten Foot Rule" is what you are costuming for, here is how I do it: Get Trigger Cloth, which is a 50/50 Poly/cotton blend, and is REALLY tough. Won't fade, wears like iron, even stands up to tourney wear, and you can machine wash and dry it, shake out the wrinkles, and pack it for the next weekend. Popular colors were green, blue, brown, tan, yellow/golds. Difficult colors to obtain were reds, purples, and blacks. Black tended to be "rusty" looking, and reds were unstable and faded. Some greens did the same thing. Early purples tended to be a lot more reddish grape color than what we think of as purple today. Personally, I like hunter green and burgundy....Actual period dyes would probably yielded a softer "mossier" green and a more purple claret color. Another fabric option is "linen look" wovens--sometimes you can get them on sale--just be sure to avoid the muslin weight blends and go for a heavier weight of fabric. Some of these are slubby rayon/ramie blends, and request that you dry clean them. Pfui! I prewash EVERYTHING as abusively as possible, and throw it in a hot dryer--when some stick jock buys a tunic from me, and does his worst to it, laundrywise, it isn't going to suddenly be four inches shorter...or fall apart. I also save money by making my own trim--I buy lightweight upholstery fabric that has vertical registers with neat medallion or foliate designs, and cut it into strips about 2-3" wide. Be sure to preswash this fabric, too! Make sure you have at least 2 yard lengths of your trim fabric--this eliminates having to piece along the hem trim, except at the sides where there are seams anyway. I fold one side of the trim under and press, and sew the other side to the hem of the tunic, right side of trim to wrong side of fabric. The tunic pattern is fairly long, with a curved hem, and some easing is necessary--so don't go TOO wide on the trim. 2" to start, is about right. I apply the hem trim by sewing the unpressed edge of the trim fab to the unfinished hem of the tunic with right sideof trim to wrong side of tunic, BEFORE I assemble the tunic. Once it is sewn on, flip in over to the right side of the tunic, press the seam, and just topstitch down the loose trim edge, which should already be pressed under...NO HEMMING!!! Ditto with keyhole neckline trim and sleeve/cuff trim. Sew it on while the garment is still in two pieces. In fact, I apply the keyhole neckline facing BEFORE I cut the neckhole and slit out...if you don't know how to do this, let me know--it's a separate article, but once you have the technique down, it's EASY! Insert your underarm gussets, if you are including them (sometimes I don't) and clip and turn the neck. Apply braiding or fancy woven trim to the raw edge of the neck outer facing to hide the fact that you left an unfinished edge there to save time, and then you are ready to sew the side seams up. This is the LAST thing you do--when the side seams are sewn up, the garment is finished, trim, hems, and all! PATTERN I make a one-size fits all tunic which looks good on people 5'6" and 160 to 6'3" and 275. Cutting the garment loosely makes it comfortable, wearable over armor, and this is why I am often able to omit the underarm gussets. Try to get 60" cloth--another reason to use Trigger Cloth! With 60" fabric, you can usually avoid making sleeves in two parts or having to use gores in the "skirts" of the tunic. You need a LOT of FLARE from the waist to the hem if you want the tunic to hang authentically when it is belted! I use the full width of a 60'fabric, all the way out to the selvedge at a 45 degree angle from the waist. Some patterns even flare out at a 90 degree angle from the waist, and this is probably even more authentic, but some men protest! ---------------- ^ ---------------\ | |* \\\/ | -------\ |\/ \ == 2 2/3 | / f YARDS / / o / / l / | *** d | ***** v **** | |----------------| <--30"--> (60 Doubled over) 2 2/3 yards will makle a man's tunic below knee to mid-calf length. 3 1/3 will be long enough for a 6' tall woman, and 3 is plenty for most. Earlier period (9th and 10th c.) men's tunics were longer-- mid calf to floor length seem to be most commonly shown. And don't forget headgear--most men wore some kind of head covering, and no woman over the age of about 16 EVER went without a head covering of some sort! Hats and shoes really "make" the outfit! If you have questions, or want to know more about keyhole neck facings, let me know. Diana ddills@u.washington.edu - -- Diane Close I'm at lunch all day. :-) If a Canadian Had Said It First (The Globe & Mail): "Cry havoc, and let loose the dogs of a peacekeeping mission!" ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Dec 1995 12:58:23 -0500 From: sunfire@muskoka.com (Stephen & Krista Fraser) Subject: Dough Beads Hi! I'm sorry, I know this isn't exactly costume related, but this was the only source I could think of where someone might have a recipe for dough beads...the kind you oven bake and then paint for stringing onto necklaces. I need to make some Christmas presents and I'm broke, so any help with this would be much appreciated. Thanks, Krista sunfire@muskoka.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Dec 1995 12:06:01 -0700 (MST) From: Uncle Peach & Costume Witch Subject: dough beads Krista Here is a dough recipe from the DOUGH CRAFTS book by:Isolde Kiskalt. 2 cups of flour 1 cup of salt 3/4 cup of water Mix together and knead the dough till smooth and elastic. Happy bead making. I've made great Christmas ornaments with salt dough. Roxanne Coslett ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Dec 95 17:53:00 CST From: "Lassman, Linda" Subject: Re: Clothing Moths Further to Julie Cheetham's excellent posting, if you have moth larvae, forget about getting rid of them with mothballs or any other olfactory deterrent--they don't have an olfactory sense at that stage of their development. Mothballs, etc., only work for the adult moths. - Linda Lassman Winnipeg, Manitoba ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Dec 1995 18:48:19 -0800 (PST) From: close (Diane Barlow Close) Subject: Making of Couture, VCR Alert for Dec 11, US channel VH1. The U.S. cable channel VH1 is showing the "Making of Couture" at 7:00 pm (at least in the San Francisco, CA, area) on Monday, December 11th, 1995. It's an hour long show described as: "Model Christy Turlington hosts a historical look at high-style and high-priced fashion and its influences. Included: archival footage and interviews with designers." - -- Diane Close I'm at lunch all day. :-) If a Canadian Had Said It First (The Globe & Mail): "Cry havoc, and let loose the dogs of a peacekeeping mission!" ------------------------------ Date: 11 Dec 95 10:58:00 GMT From: Mrs C S Yeldham Subject: Linen The European Community is apparently promoting linen (for some odd reason using the picture of Agnes Sorel as the Virgin Mary). Anyway, they have given an address for information: CELC (confederation europeene du lin et du chanvre) 27 Boulevard Malesherbe 75009 Paris France tel 33 1 42 66 55 07 fax 33 1 42 66 63 65 Caroline ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Dec 1995 07:55:26 -0600 (CST) From: "Maria A. Sanders" Subject: Re: Dough Beads On Sun, 10 Dec 1995, Stephen & Krista Fraser wrote: > Hi! > I'm sorry, I know this isn't exactly costume related, but this was the only > source I could think of where someone might have a recipe for dough > beads...the kind you oven bake and then paint for stringing onto necklaces. > I need to make some Christmas presents and I'm broke, so any help with this > would be much appreciated. > Thanks, > > Krista > sunfire@muskoka.com > > Krista, If you go to your local craft store (HObby Lobby, Micheals...ok a BIG local craft store) and go to either the jewelry section or clay section there is the package stuff called Femo (sp?) that can be oven baked and comes in a variety of colors, and isn't terribly expensive. I think is runs $1- $3 dollars here in Arkansas. As for home made dough, I'm not sure how to make that. Marias \\\|/// (O O) - -----------------------------oooO---U---Oooo---------------------------------- MARIA SANDERS LIBRARY ACQUISITIONS EMAIL: MARIAS@COMP PHONE: (501) 575-4657 OR FAX: (501) 575-6656 MARIAS@SATURN \\\|/// (O O) U O .........thanks.... - ----------------------------oooO-------Oooo----------------------------------- ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V3 #269 ******************************* A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!