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Subject: H-Costume Digest V4 #21
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H-Costume Digest         Tuesday, January 23 1996         Volume 4, Number 21

  Compilation copyright (C) 1995  Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller
  Use in whole prohibited.  Individual articles are the property of
  the author.  Seek permission from that author before reprinting or
  quoting elsewhere.

Important Addresses:

  Send submissions to:   h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to
			  this message).
  Adds/drops/archives:   majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com
  Real, live person:     h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu

Topics:
    costume con 14
    Ruffs
    Re: costume con 14
    southern belle underthings
    Mother Pluckers/Amcan -- Feather Companies
    Nun's veiling
    Re: H-Costume Digest V4 #19
    Re:red cloaks
    Red Cloaks
    Fairy Tale Ball
    Re:red cloaks
    Re: southern belle underthings
    The Seige of Fort Erie is lifted.
    Re: Nun's veiling
    Vintage dance class in Berkeley CA
    Corset Covers
    RE: Red Cloaks
    Patterns for Medieval Costumes
    Re: Corset Covers
    Searching for musicians' costumes...
    Leather apron source (& military goods)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Jan 1996 15:47:48 -0800 (PST)
From: "erin k. gault" <gaulte@elwha.evergreen.edu>
Subject: costume con 14

I would like to attend the costume con 14 in Seattle this year but I feel 
king of weird wearing a costume.  I know that probably sounds very weird, 
but I don't like dressing up in costume around people I don't know.  Is 
it okay to go in regular clothes?  If so, do many people do that?  Thanks 
for your info.

*****************************************************************
*      	      Erin K. Gault  Evergreen State College		*
*          Eglentyne de Gaulle  College of Witt's Haven         * 
*            Barony of Glymm Mere, Kingdom of An Tir            *
*              e-mail: gaulte@elwha.evergreen.edu            	* 
*****************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Jan 1996 23:02:03 -0600
From: mkwhitak@facstaff.wisc.edu (Kathy Whitaker)
Subject: Ruffs

Hello!  I am new to this list, and am looking for information on ruffs and 
stand-up collars.  I am trying to make an Italian coat (I don't know if it 
has a special name) based on some of Vecellio's woodcuts.  They all seem to 
have small ruffs (not big ones, like the Elizabethans).  In the Janet Arnold 
book I also saw one with a small half-circle stand-up collar.  I would 
appreciate any information anyone has, or a direction I can be pointed in.

Thank you very much...

Kathy

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Jan 1996 10:10:04 -0500
From: MerrimacGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: costume con 14

Erin--

I can't speak for Costume Con 14, but I've attended many (more than 30)
science fiction conventions, not to mention almost 10 years of the local
Renaissance Festival. A lot of people do attend just in "mundane" clothes.
However, I have and many friends of mine have brought with us and worn
several changes of costumes during the course of these 2-5 day events. And
that's just for walking around the convention areas and hotel rooms, not
because we're entered in costume events or have to be for some other reason.
It's because we want to be and because we're proud to show off our own or
someone else's workmanship. (It doesn't hurt to have people come up and
"Ooooh" and "Ahhhh" and take pictures and videotape us either. <smile>) It
really is a wonderful feeling and I hope you'll try wearing a costume (or so)
at conventions but I don't think you'll feel that out-of-place if you don't.
If you do, and you get the daring to, go out amongst the "mundanes" with some
other conventions goers (e.g. -- to a restaurant) in costume and watch the
stares you get! It's a lot of fun!

- -- Mary Macdonald

P.S. -- "Mundanes" is the name we sci-fi con people affectionately call the
everyday "ordinary" people in the outside world who heretofore had no clue
about us.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Jan 1996 22:45:54 -0500
From: Amy_Hofer@Brown.edu (Amy Hofer)
Subject: southern belle underthings

hello, h-costume listers!
Any ideas/info/references on what a Southern belle (ie Scarlett O'Hara)
would've looked like with her dress off?  It's for a play, so
recognizability is prob'ly more important than accuracy.
Thanks a mil (in advance),
Liza Jane.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Jan 1996 21:43:15 -0800
From: Karen Walker <walker@leonardo.net>
Subject: Mother Pluckers/Amcan -- Feather Companies

Mother Pluckers
6253 Hollywood Blvd.
L.A. (dk the zip)
213 469-5321 

dk anything about them, but they have an office across the street from
Oriental Silk Co.
Amcan Feather Co.
8338 Beverly Blvd.
Los Angeles 90048 
213 653-1508

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 00:37:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: CLT@ENH.NIST.GOV
Subject: Nun's veiling

Can anyone tell me about nun's veiling? I have a description that
reads as follows: a very fine, soft woolen veiling, also used as a
dress fabric.

How fine do they mean? Presumably the wearer would be able to see
through it, but how clearly would someone else be able to perceive
the face of the person wearing it?

Carol
CLT@enh.nist.gov

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 96 10:30:56 GMT
From: Alan Braggins <armb@setanta.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-Costume Digest V4 #19

> 
> > A photograph is itself a reproduction of reality and selective in what it 
> > reproduces; it is therefore a secondary source.
> 
The same is true of paintings, descriptions, eyewitness observation and memories,
and even artifacts (which are selective in what has survived, and are often not
a perfect reproduction of their original state). By this standard, there are no
historical primary sources (and only one current primary source, anything less
than the whole of reality being selective).

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 11:35:39 -0600 (CST)
From: Deb <BADDORF@badorf.fnal.gov>
Subject: Re:red cloaks

Since no one else has answered,  I'll insert my teeny
bit of knowledge about red cloaks.

The Kinsale cloak pattern I have has notes which
say that during the 18th century  ( and for some
time before, I think)  red cloaks were popular.
In fact, I think I recall them saying that it was
the most popular color in which to make a cloak.

So the red cloak is not (if you believe those notes)
a "movie device".

Deb Baddorf             baddorf@fnal.gov

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 13:47:58 -500
From: "Carol Kocian" <CKOCIAN@epe.org>
Subject: Red Cloaks

Barbara Piano wrote:

>  She observed that the four sisters in _Persuasion_ wore red 
> cloaks and two of the Bennett sisters also wore red.  Her question is:  
> was red a color of the times and did it have some significance?  Or is it 
> a movie device?  thanks in advance for any comments or discussion on this 
> point.

    A friend of mine recently did some research for Rev War (1770's 
America) about cloaks. She read that red cloaks were popular with 
women and girls in rural areas. Little Red Riding Hood's cloak was 
not all that unique! The style of red cloaks was likely to still be 
around in Jane Austen's time, and in England as well as America.

    -Carol Kocian
    ckocian@epe.org

------------------------------

Date: 22 Jan 96 11:48:28 -0800
From: "SNORTON.US.ORACLE.COM" <SNORTON@us.oracle.com>
Subject: Fairy Tale Ball

 
Those of you in the San Francisco Bay Area or those of who might be 
planning to visit us, a wonderful event is coming up that may interest 
you. 
	THE FAIRY TALE MASQUERADE BALL 
	Sponsored by the Greater Bay Area Costumer's Guild 
 
	March 2, 1996 
	8 pm - Midnight 
 
	at The Clocktower in Bencia 
	(about 30 minutes Northeast of San Francisco) 
 
	Dancing, Food, Entertainments 
 
This is a wonderful opportunity to wear your favorite historic or  
fantasy costume.  Fairy/folk Tales are part of every culture and 
every century. 
 
The Clocktower is a large stone, building that will be lavishly 
decorated for this magical event. 
 
Bencia is a charming town with many Victorian buildings.  There 
are several places to stay in the town, but it really is a short 
drive from San Francisco.  For those staying overnight, there 
are many antique shops to exlore and several Victorian buildings open 
for tours.  Several people have expressed interest in wearing  
Victorian ensembles and having brunch at the Hotel on Sunday. 
Perhaps you'd like to join us? 
 
Call the GBACG Hotline for ticket info 415-974-9333.   
 
Say you read about this event on the h-costume or f-costume list and  
receive a $5 discount.  Tickets for list members are  
$40 for GBACG members, $45 for non-members. 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 14:12:30 -0800
From: gwjchris@ix.netcom.com (Bill and Glenna Christen )
Subject: Re:red cloaks

You wrote: 

>The Kinsale cloak pattern I have has notes which say that during the 
>18th century (and for some time before, I think) red cloaks were 
>popular.  In fact, I think I recall them saying that it was the most 
>popular color in which to make a cloak.


Further evidence that "Little Red Riding Hood" like many tradition 
tales was based on reality of the era when it was first recorded and 
then locked into its "traditional" version.

Just my 2 cents worth.

Glenna Jo Christen
LHS, LSFS, MSAS & HSP
gwjchris@netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 16:29:38 -0800
From: denikai@ix.netcom.com (Marie Denikas )
Subject: Re: southern belle underthings

You wrote: 
>
>hello, h-costume listers!
>Any ideas/info/references on what a Southern belle (ie Scarlett 
>O'Hara would've looked like with her dress off?  It's for a play, so
>recognizability is prob'ly more important than accuracy.
>Thanks a mil (in advance),
>Liza Jane.
>
>
Well, according to the movie, she wore pantilets (which were long 
bloomers, to mid calf with lace and trimmings) and a corset cover (like 
a camisole), plus the ever-present corset.

The movie has several scenes of girls in their underpinnings.  
Generally, this is pretty accurate.

Marie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 19:55:48 -0500 (EST)
From: John Sek <jsek@freenet.npiec.on.ca>
Subject: The Seige of Fort Erie is lifted.

Thanks to all who sent out words of support for the 1996 Seige of Fort 
Erie (a Canadian 1812 historical battle site).  Niagara Parks has 
relented to the wishes of this community and to the re-enactors 
themselves.  Niagara Parks has OFFICIALLY re-confirmed the 2nd week-end 
of August will hold the 10th Annual Seige of Fort Erie.

Plans are now underway to not only sustain the usually battle and site
conditions normally found and expected but more events will be introduced
as well.  For example a military full dress ball is being planned.  So get
out your mess kits and gowns. 

Thanks again to all,

***********************************************************************
John Sek,C.E.T.,C.S.T.                         jsek@freenet.npiec.on.ca
222 Emerick Avenue                            telephone: 1-905-871-7449 
Fort Erie, ON, CANADA L2A 2W5                 fax/modem: 1-905-871-0696

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 18:57:44 -0800 (PST)
From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@uclink.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: Nun's veiling

On Mon, 22 Jan 1996 CLT@ENH.NIST.GOV wrote:

> Can anyone tell me about nun's veiling? I have a description that
> reads as follows: a very fine, soft woolen veiling, also used as a
> dress fabric.
> 
> How fine do they mean? Presumably the wearer would be able to see
> through it, but how clearly would someone else be able to perceive
> the face of the person wearing it?

Does the original context make it explicit that this item is worn  _over_ 
the face? In the context of nun's clothing (or generally in its origins 
in medieval European clothing) "veil" referred to a cloth worn on the 
head, but not normally over the face. 

Heather Rose Jones

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 19:34:17 -0800 (PST)
From: Allan Terry <aterry@neon.Teknowledge.COM>
Subject: Vintage dance class in Berkeley CA

                      VINTAGE DANCE CLASSES

The East Bay Vintage Dance Society schedule for February and March is:

January 27:  5/4 waltz variations taught by Allan Terry & Frances Grimble:
             Five-step polka redowa, 5/4 with racket & more
February 3:  The 1910s Inner Circle Toddle taught by Terry & Grimble
February 10:  Ragtime dance taught by Stan Isaacs
February 17:  Ragtime dance taught by Terry & Grimble
February 24:  Ragtime dance taught by Stan Isaacs
March 2:  Ragtime dance
March 9:  NO CLASS--HALL UNAVAILABLE
March 16:  Ragtime dance taught by Stan Isaacs
March 23:  Ragtime dance
March 30:  Ragtime dance
        
All dance variations are researched from original sources, some especially
for this class.  We do our best to always teach fresh and interesting
material, and to teach good styling.

All classes will be held on Saturday mornings, 10:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. at

St. Johns Presbyterian Church
2727 College Avenue, Room 203
Berkeley, California

The price is $6/person.  No partner required.

This is a regular series of weekly classes that will continue in upcoming
months.  

For further information, call Clare Burmeister at 510/524-9111 or send
e-mail to clareb@consensus.com or aterry@teknowledge.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 20:41:22 -0700
From: Sharon Bolton <quilter@netzone.com>
Subject: Corset Covers

I am confused about corset covers.  Were they worn between the corset and
the skin, or over the corset?

Sharon in Phoenix where we finally had RAIN!!!  Yippee!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jan 1996 10:27:34 -0600 (CST)
From: Deb <BADDORF@badorf.fnal.gov>
Subject: RE: Red Cloaks

I've looked up a few more details, though I don't have information
on how long the style existed  (somebody wanted to know if
red cloaks were in vogue in 1500 in Germany):

There is a photo of a simple red cloak with hood,
in  "Eighteenth-Century Clothing at Williamsburg"
by Linda Baumgarten,  put out by Colonial Williamsburg,
but also available at bookstores.
   Pg 38  caption "Red wool broadcloth, modern lining,
England, 1750-1810."  [ which I think is the dating on
THIS garment, not necessarily all red cloaks -- though
it might also be the time during which they were popular.]

In the text on pg 39:  " ... The red wool broadcloth
cloak was one of the most popular for outdoor wear
in rural areas of England and the colonies.  Philip Vickers
Fithian described Virginia ladies in December 1773:
"Almost every Lady wears a red Cloak; ..."  "

===================================
Another reference:
I  *think*  the red cloak which I had been remembering
was in "Fabric of Society: a century of people and their clothes,
1770-1870:  essays inspired by the collections at Platt Hall,
the Gallery of English Costume, Manchester"  by Jane Tozer
and Sarah Levitt.  It's the Laura Ashley book which
is better than their reputation might have one believe.

I believe there is a red cloak pictured there, with similar
comments.  However, I don't have that book, so I can't quote.

<===============================================================>  <IX0YE><
Deb Baddorf            Fermilab, MS220     Arthurian,Inkling,&Regency fan
Baddorf@fnal.gov       PO Box 500          Costumer, RevWar re-enactor
Baddorf@fnal.bitnet    Batavia, IL 60510   MAC Q605 w/ IIe emulator & FPU

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Jan 1996 21:44:48 -0800
From: Richard Morgan <cobraman@indirect.com>
Subject: Patterns for Medieval Costumes

I am looking for patterns to make period costumes for 600-1000 AD. Most 
immediately, I am looking for a pattern for an archer's hood.  If you 
have products for these, I am interested.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jan 1996 09:53:54 -0800
From: gwjchris@ix.netcom.com (Bill and Glenna Christen )
Subject: Re: Corset Covers

You wrote: 
>
>I am confused about corset covers.  Were they worn between the corset and
>the skin, or over the corset?

Just as the title says, as a cover over the corset.  A chemise was 
generally worn under the corset.  The chemise protected the corset and the 
wearer from each other, and the corset cover protected the outer garment 
from the corset.  Depending on when these garments were worn they may have 
had other less funtional purposes as well...

Glenna Jo Christen
LHS, LSFS, MSAS & HSP
gwjchris@ix.netcom.com  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 14:26:16 +0100
From: cddp51@ebc.net (CDDP DE LA MARNE)
Subject: Searching for musicians' costumes...

Hello !
I'm searching for informations about some do-it yourself medieval costumes
(plans). Musicians 's costumes if possible. It's for a concert.
(XIV th century - Roman de Fauvel).

Please send me a scanned picture in my internet mailbox. Thanks for all.

R. FERNANDEZ (for Olivier Fagot)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jan 96 16:07:00 PST
From: "Tobey, Pam" <L80008TB@washpost.com>
Subject: Leather apron source (& military goods)

Hello. I just received a catalog from the BW Trading Company (a military
surplus wholesaler) and saw an item (pg 29) for "leather welders aprons."
Description is "Made of very heavy leather which has been tanned into a soft
flexible hide. The leather is almost 1/8" thick. These would cost big money
if made today. At our price reenactors could cut it up for leather, it
measures about 22"W x 34"L.... Unused, excellent." The price is $11.50 each
(shipping weight is 1.5 pounds). Stock no. 3024. I remember several postings
about using heavy leather for creating parts of costumes and this sounds like
a good price, especially considering what little leather skins go for at my
local fabric store! They only accept money order or check, but their service
has always been good. 

You can call (614) 344-2772 and request catalog #102 (winter 1996). Hours:
9am-5pm EST. Their address is: BW Trading Co., Box 692, Newark, Ohio 43055.

They also have several listings for different weights of khaki, olive drab
and natural cotton canvas and twill yardage, some with waterproofing. They
also have WWII goods and reproductions of WWI and WWII helmets, etc,
including Germany. Also Soviet and East German military goods: medals, books,
shoulder boards, buttons, collar tabs, emblems, ribbons, coats, uniforms,
hats, hat emblems, belts, netting, the list is almost endless. And the prices
are pretty reasonable, varying from one item to wholesale quantities of 100
or 1,000.

To those interested in the leather aprons, if you can't wait, I can fax you
page 29 with the apron entry, the shipping table and the order blank.

Pam Tobey
tobeypam@washpost.com

------------------------------

End of H-Costume Digest V4 #21
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