From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V4 #22 Reply-To: h-costume Sender: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Thursday, January 25 1996 Volume 4, Number 22 Compilation copyright (C) 1995 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: Patterns for Medieval Costumes Thanks re corset covers rifle coats Re: California and Nun's Veiling international costumers guild? Re: H-Costume Digest V4 #21 Re: Roman de Fauvel Re: Patterns for Medieval Costumes Re: H-Costume Digest V4 #21 Re: costume con 14 RE: Thanks re corset covers Help! Man's vest !!!!! FW: Fwd: Favor? three terms used in the 1840's Looking for a SF bay area seamstress RE: GERMAN COSTUME COLORS - 1500 to 1550 Re: Help! Man's vest !!!!! Viking lady Jewelry Sources three questions on mid 19th century terms Re: Help! Man's vest !!!!! RE: Pregnancy Problems ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 23 Jan 1996 18:11:26 -0500 From: Gary Stephens Subject: Patterns for Medieval Costumes Dear Richard, You were asking: >I am looking for patterns to make period costumes for 600-1000 AD. Most >immediately, I am looking for a pattern for an archer's hood. If you >have products for these, I am interested. While I don't have actual commercial patterns, my husband portrays an archer circa 1296. I've made him many documentable hoods, some in wool, some in soft pigskin, as well as other fabrics. All I've done is to measure to a depth on his chest to where he would like the mantle part to hang, and then cut two slope-shouldered semi-circular pieces. The hood has fit the neck opening and has a long tail on it to facilitate wrapping it around the head to hold the hood part up, or to wrap around the neck as a scarf device. The tail I usually make long enough that it hangs to mid-calf. This allows enough tail to wrap comfortably. If it's in the way, he just tucks it into the belt over his jupon. If it helps at all, I've used a regular shirt pattern sometimes to get the neck opening and the slope of the shoulder correctly, and then just extended out past the shoulder edge a bit, following the angle of the slope, in order to get a gentle hang over the shoulders. This has worked very successfully. It's all kind of hard to describe. If I were any good at ASCII drawings I could illustrate. Lorina J. Stephens garys@flexnet.com author of _Touring the Giant's Rib_ & _Credit River Valley_ http://web.idirect.com/~canuck/lorina.html assistant editor Maple Syrup Simmering: Canada's Online Literary 'Zine http://web.idirect.com/~canuck/canzine.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 Jan 1996 16:55:49 -0700 From: Sharon Bolton Subject: Thanks re corset covers Thanks for all the confirmation about these. My confusion came, I suppose, from all the movies and TV shows where the heroine slips out of her dress and there is her corset. I should know better to let my ideas be tainted by Hollywood! Sharon in Phoenix ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 Jan 1996 20:06:51 -0600 (CST) From: HIST_PS@centum.utulsa.edu Subject: rifle coats I hope somebody can help me. I came across a notation to a garment called a rifle coat. The term, in the context in which it was used, seemed to be synonymous to a frock coat. None of my books referred to a rifle coat. The time frame was 1830-1840's in America. Thanks Paula hist_ps@centum.utulsa.edu ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 15:23:13 +1100 From: "Gillian Richards (02) 716 3712" Subject: Re: California and Nun's Veiling Nun's veiling is the thin wool to make the headcover-bits (veil, etc) for the nun - as in "To take the veil" meaning to become a Nun. You can usually get it at very expensive material stores just before winter - I have a ghastly baby's dress made out of the stuff. The material is beautiful and soft and slightly like crepe - it's the lousy quality of the making of the dress that turns me off. (A certain relative who always thinks she knows better than to follow a pattern). Actually, surely religeous supply stores should know where to get it. There wouldn't be a great range of colours, though - enough to cover the basic orders and that's it. I'm going back to dreaming about ball-dancing in a crinoline... gillian gillian.richards@tafensw.edu.au ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 Jan 1996 17:45:18 -0500 (EST) From: DONOVAN@SHRSYS.HSLC.ORG Subject: international costumers guild? Someone in my library has just asked me if: 1. the international costumers' guild is on the internet (do they have a website? listserv?) 2. Do they have local chapters? If so, is there an East coast one (esp. in Philadelphia). Thanks! Judy Donovan (in her *official* capacity as Library Director at Moore College of Art in Philadelphia). donovan@hslc.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 08:57:32 -0800 From: Susan Fatemi Subject: Re: H-Costume Digest V4 #21 To add to Heather's comment on nun's veiling... it goes on the head, not the face. If someone has an "official" definition of the fabric, I'd like to read it. In the meantime, having grown up with nuns (I'm sure I'm not the only one on this list!) "my" nuns wore a fine woolen veil, black, I think it would be plain weave (not very knowledgeable about weaves). It had no twill or pattern in it. I just loved their "outfits". I though I wanted to *be* a nun until I realized it was their habits (and their own rooms!) that attracted me. I bought some light grey, fine wool (maybe worsted) last spring on sale, and described it to someone as like nun's veiling. Of course, nobody knew what I meant. sigh. This wool would make lightwt. drapey trousers or skirt. It would even be suitable for a shirt, but not a jacket. Hope that helps ... Susan Fatemi susanf@eerc.berkeley.edu ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 09:44:22 +0000 From: Hope Greenberg Subject: Re: Roman de Fauvel CDDP DE LA MARNE wrote: > Musicians 's costumes if possible. It's for a concert. > (XIV th century - Roman de Fauvel). Someone is doing the Roman de Fauvel? Who? Where? When? Tell me more (personally, please, unless the rest of the list is interested). Or perhaps, here's a costuming question that the above raises: As I think about images of musicians I recall people playing instrucments or singing in normal "street" dress or in some form of livery or uniform. Any thoughts on costumes for musicians, including variations in normal dress that musicians would have used ("get those dratted dagged sleeves out of the way of my viol!") or, on a different subject, where and when the all black or black and white "uniform" for formal musical events started? - - Hope - ----------- Hope Greenberg Academic Computing University of Vermont ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 Jan 1996 16:50:43 -0800 (PST) From: Heather Rose Jones Subject: Re: Patterns for Medieval Costumes On Sun, 21 Jan 1996, Richard Morgan wrote: > I am looking for patterns to make period costumes for 600-1000 AD. Most > immediately, I am looking for a pattern for an archer's hood. If you > have products for these, I am interested. Do you have any particular culture in mind? I'm not familiar with anything specifically known as an "archer's hood". The hood-with-short-shoulder-cape that became popular around the 13-14th centuries doesn't seem to show up in representations of the 7th to 10th centuries, although you can find occasional representations of a fairly substantial cloak (e.g., knee-length) that has a hood attached. For Anglo-Saxon clothing of this period, you might try to locate Gale Owen-Crocker's excellant book "Dress in Anglo-Saxon England". For actual patterns, you might look into materials dealing with some of the German migration-era archaeological finds. There may be better sources on these specifically, but they are touched on (and construction diagrams are given) in Margarethe Hald's "Ancient Danish Textiles from Bogs and Burials". Heather Rose Jones ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Jan 96 10:23:24 GMT From: Alan Braggins Subject: Re: H-Costume Digest V4 #21 > Subject: Re: costume con 14 > > P.S. -- "Mundanes" is the name we sci-fi con people affectionately call the > everyday "ordinary" people in the outside world who heretofore had no clue > about us. It's sometimes used affectionately, but not always seen (or intended) that way, so be careful unless you are sure the people you are with will take it the same way. There was a fairly lengthy discussion on alt.music.filk recently, and I'm sure its been discussed on rec.arts.sf.fandom (probably many times). ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 02:10:42 -0500 From: kl94ag@badger.ac.BrockU.CA (Kathleen Leggat) Subject: Re: costume con 14 >If you do, and you get the daring to, go out amongst the "mundanes" with some >other conventions goers (e.g. -- to a restaurant) in costume and watch the >stares you get! It's a lot of fun! > >- -- Mary Macdonald > >P.S. -- "Mundanes" is the name we sci-fi con people affectionately call the >everyday "ordinary" people in the outside world who heretofore had no clue >about us. > Ah...Freaking Out Mundanes...lot of fun. And if you're in public in an Elizabethan gown and you're asked "Are you in a play?" respond with "Yes...West Side Story!" (from a song I think) Kathleen (Catriona) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 10:07:41 -0600 (CST) From: Deb Subject: RE: Thanks re corset covers >Thanks for all the confirmation about these. My confusion came, I suppose, >from all the movies and TV shows where the heroine slips out of her dress >and there is her corset. I should know better to let my ideas be tainted by >Hollywood! True! However, let me point out that in my period of study, 1770's (rev war) I've not heard of any corset covers, so I don't think they used them. The chemise is still in place, however (under the corset). So don't generalize TOO far in the other direction, and assume that there was always a corset cover. Deb Baddorf baddorf@fnal.gov ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 06:21:07 -0700 (PDT) From: "Peter J. McDonough" Subject: Help! Man's vest !!!!! Hi!!!!! I am over my head in a Vintage sewing class and my sad tale follows ... .. . FACTS: I have about 20 minutes of beginner's sewing experience on a variety of beat up old electric sewing machines where I/we sewed a basic hand puppet for a puppetry class. Yesterday I enrolled in a junior college/two-year college Vintage Sewing course and my assignment is to make a period 1920's man's vest for myself. Class will meet for the next eight weeks for 2 1/2 hours, one night a week. Any and all tips on my project will be appreciated !!!!! We are to do research, design, sew and model our 1920's project. I do not have any knowledge about any of this. If you have any ideas, no matter how brief, I will truly appreciate it !!! I am in a class of about 18 people and only three of us don't know how to sew. The teacher said it was not a course requirement and she will give us a handout and some help. There are about six machines in the classroom, with what I think is called a serger. I have a Pfaff 125 at home, which no one in my family really learned to use. I brought it into the shop where we bought it and Tom said that it was very stiff and badly needly a lube job, and probably an adjustment as well. So I left it there for pickup on Thursday. RECAP: I am all set with a machine I can use at home, and I know the _basics_ of what I need to do, but I am totally intimidated by this course and my classmates, all women, and I need some tips on how I am to get to my goal of a 1920's style vest that I will research, design, construct and wear. Thanks for any and all tips on this project!!!!!!!!!!!!! Pete Member of GBBACG and a total rookie at all of this!!!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Jan 96 11:48:07 PST From: ches@tristero.io.com Subject: FW: Fwd: Favor? Afriend of mine needs help, you may respond to me or her, Thanks! >Forwarded message: >From: Stanford#m#_Kat*@msgate.apple.com (Stanford, Kat*) >To: ChesHav@aol.com (Ches) >Date: 96-01-22 10:08:16 EST > >Could you do me a favor? Could look through some of your books and find what >colors are period for Germany about 1500-1550? I have a medieval miscellania >pattern for that time, but it doesn't tell what colors they used. > > > Ciao @}\ Ches @}----`--,-- http://www.io.com/~ches/ @}/ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 17:27:53 -0600 (CST) From: HIST_PS@centum.utulsa.edu Subject: three terms used in the 1840's First I want to thank Kora et al for the information on a rifle coat. However, it does not fit the contex even tho'it makes sense. This term was used as attire for boys to wear at an Academy. It cost $12.00 then. The second term refers to a type of pants called drilling pants. I think it was made out of drill, but I do not know. The last term refers to material with a Merrimac print. Thanks. Paula hist_ps@centum.utulsa.edu ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 16:12:18 -0800 From: cynthia@caere.com Subject: Looking for a SF bay area seamstress I'm forwarding this for a friend who needs to finish a copy of the 1840 ballgown bodice in _The Cut of Women's Clothes_ by Norah Waugh. The draping is done. Would anyone care to recommend someone who is able to take on this project? --cin Could I get away with meeting with this person only once or twice? If yes, then i could find a ride and the Berkeley/Oakland seamstress would be an option. In reference to "Victoria and Adrian, how expensive would expensive be, for a bodice, undecorated, starting from what I have now. (just an estimate) where are they located, and what is their phone number? (There are only 3.5ish weeks left til Feb.17th , so I better get cracking!) Thanks :) Darcy dgordon@leland.stanford.edu ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 10:13:53 -0800 From: Sandra Davis Subject: RE: GERMAN COSTUME COLORS - 1500 to 1550 RE GERMAN COSTUME circa 1500 - 1550 With the exception of blatantly modern colors (i.e. pale pastels and "acid" brights like dayglow pink, orange, etc) almost anything was "possible" during the German Renaissance. Many consider it to be one of the gaudiest eras in costume history. However, just because almost any color combination was possible, doesn't mean there weren't several "favorite" combinations that were repeated over and over in the paintings of the era. There were usually at least two colors (the main color and a trim color) in any gown, and often more. The most usual two color combinations were deep solid colors with gold trim. The most common colors were red, burgundy, dark green and black. Deep "true" blue and brown also occur fairly regularly. A look at color reproductions of the paintings of Lucas Cranach and/or Hans Holbein should give you a good idea of the overall visual impact of the period. Albrecht Durer is another great painter of the time worth checking out. Good luck with your costume! Feel free to contact me if you have more questions on this period. - -Sandra ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Jan 96 11:55:54 est From: Hilary_Oak_at_SLU1@ccmaillink.stlawu.edu Subject: Re: Help! Man's vest !!!!! Hey Pete, First of all: DON'T PANIC! Sewing should be fun, research can be fun, and chances are the other folks in the class (and the teacher) are friendly and will be more than willing to share their knowledge with you. A classroom situation does not have to be a competition, and many women encourage men to get into sewing and crafts. Second: Get a couple of books about costume history of that period at your school and community library, maybe also a few picture books about famous people and events of that era, and one good all around basic sewing book like one put out by Singer of Reader's Digest to help you learn sewing terms and techniques like "making a double-welt pocket".(Buy this at a bookstore, then you can make notes in it and you'll use it forever.) Third: If your assignment does not include patterning from scratch, Folkwear has a vintage vests pattern with lots of information in it, and Past Patterns probably does too.You can always adapt patterns to suit your ideas, and they are a great way to get started. Fourth: Choose some beautiful, but historically appropriate, fabric and buttons. Then dive in and enjoy the process! Life is too short to get high blood pressure from something fun! Hilary Oak ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 14:26:06 -0500 From: Neysa@aol.com Subject: Viking lady Jewelry Sources I am looking for a source for the pins that Norse ladies wore to hold on their aprons. There was someone at the Pennsic war this past year near the play ground that had wonderful matched sets. I however was too busy to get around to buying them at the time and the name of the company escapes me. ( For some reason I bouught very little at the War this year, I am beginning to think that the heat had more effect on me than I thought.) Thanks for your help in advance. Lady Gwyneth ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 15:46:18 -0600 (CST) From: HIST_PS@centum.utulsa.edu Subject: three questions on mid 19th century terms First I want to thank those who have helped me these past few days. I have a fewterms for which I cannot find definitions. They were worn in Indian Territory in1840-1890. Dress goods called "Merrimac prints", hickory shirt, and congress gaitors. Thank you. Paula Sanders hist_ps@centum.utulsa.edu ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 17:12:18 -0500 From: ASchell576@aol.com Subject: Re: Help! Man's vest !!!!! try going to your local fabric store and looking in the pattern books (vogue, McCalls, Simplicity and Butterick) for a pattern of a mans vest with lapels. this is close to a 1920's style vest and these patterns are VERY SIMPLE to use. E-Mail me if you have any questions, will be happy to walk you through it over the phone step by step if you would like (i've been there) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Jan 96 18:52:45 PST From: ches@tristero.io.com Subject: RE: Pregnancy Problems On Fri, 19 Jan 1996 11:26:13 -0500 Stephen & Krista Fraser wrote: >>Did anyone else notice problems sewing during a pregnancy? Pregnancy made >>my tendons and ligaments very loose and I had terrible tendonitis from >>smocking and embroidery (but I was bedridden and it was all I could do >>besides reading and TV for months!) All my joints ached terribly if I was >>even a tiny bit lazy about resting them. I would highly recommend paying >>extra attention to Gillian's suggestions and maybe even take more rests if >>sewing during pregnancy. >> >>julie adams Well, I had the best pregnacy anyone could ask for (it is also my first). No morning sickness, no bedrest needed...until the last month. My husband got a job in another state and left while I was in my 5th month and I had to pack, move, and set up all alone! No time to be sick! Anyhow, your question was about sewing... I noticed that my buttocks went to sleep after an hour at the sewing machine. I noticed the swelling in my hands when I did hand work in my 8th month but not before. The swelling was due to the change in water. In Austin it is clear of salts but in Louisiana it's full of them! So I had to change to bottled water for two months, swelling went away. Also, my right shoulder (I am right handed) was popping out of joint a lot and still is. My right hip is also still popping in and out of joint. On the last month my body finally had enough and I slept most of it. Must be because I am 33 or so... Ciao @}\ Ches @}----`--,-- http://www.io.com/~ches/ @}/ ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V4 #22 ****************************** A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!