From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V4 #24 Reply-To: h-costume Sender: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Monday, January 29 1996 Volume 4, Number 24 Compilation copyright (C) 1995 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: Re: tablet-weaving Patterns Pattern reducing 18th Century Frock Coat Again... Re: tablet-weaving Re: Help! Man's vest !!!!! Re: Patterns Re: Patterns Re: Patterns Silk names Do you have _Dress_ Vol 19 (1992) ?? Re: Pattern reducing Re: RAGS Home Page sewing tips Men's vest sources Men's 1920 Vest ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 13:03:34 -0500 From: BBrisbane@aol.com Subject: Re: tablet-weaving Interweave press has a 'kit' for tabley weaving - goes by the title of Cardweaving, by Crocket ISBN 0-934026-61-0, and includes 24 cards (nice ones, too) great photos of old and/or intricate peices, good bibliography, instructions even I can follow. (I've read many books on tablet weaving with poor enlightenment in the past). Brenda ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 11:29:20 -0800 (PST) From: Jo Jann Subject: Patterns While we seem to be on the subject, I thought i would ask about SCA period patterns. I recently got a few things from amazon drygoods, but after looking thru the catolog, those few things were all i could find! Does anyone know of a supplyer of just sca period (0-1500ad) patterns? thank you steffanie please reply to Silky@teleport.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 20:32:28 -0500 From: sunfire@muskoka.com (Stephen & Krista Fraser) Subject: Pattern reducing Hi! Could someone please explain to me the best way to down size a pattern? For example, I have a pattern (size medium) for a tunic for my husband. I'd like to use the same pattern for my 11 yr. old son but obviously his measurements are smaller (boys size 12 to be exact). I might normally be able to figure this out on my own but for some reason my brain is toast tonight! Any suggestions? Krista sunfire@muskoka.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 22:07:44 CST From: TOMBGUARD Subject: 18th Century Frock Coat Again... I am looking for some type of documentation that shows that fine wool frock coats were embellished with silk embroidery. I have plenty to show that silk and linen ones were, but not wool. I am sure that there has to be something out there, but my resources are pretty slim at the moment. Would appreciate any help. I have this very fine wool that I just have to use. If I can't justify embroidery on it I need to know where I can get ahold of some linen or silk lace (as in the tape lace they used for embellishing coats). Thanks, Robert Robert H. Neidlinger NEIDLRH@WKUVX1.WKU.EDU "The Tomb Guard" Robert.Neidlinger@BGAMUG.COM "Ask me a question and I'll reply, Cottleston, Cottleston, Cottleston Pie" Winnie the Pooh ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 03:31:52 -0800 (PST) From: Conrad Hodson Subject: Re: tablet-weaving On Fri, 26 Jan 1996, Jan McEwen wrote: > Stephen, > > The classic book on tablet weaving is _The Techniques of Tablet Weaving_ > by Peter Collingwood. Unfortunately, this is out of print (although I've > heard rumors that it may be reprinted), There was a push several years ago to persuade the University of Washington to reprint it. Don't know if the drive was successful or not. Write and ask--they may still be taking opinions.---Margaret Weller but a good research library > should have it. He covers the history of tablet weaving (briefly) from > the 6th century B.C. to this century. > > There are some photographs of old examples of tablet weaving: > p. 98 plate 44: wool band, Germany, Iron Age > p. 155 plate 75: silk belt, Sicilian or Spanish, ~ early 1200's > p. 157 plate 77: silk band (with inscription), Germany, 9-10th cent. > p. 181 plate 96: wool band, Norway, 6th cent. > p. 199 plate 107: silk band, 9th-10th cent. > p. 229 plate 124: Egypt, 10th cent. > my favorite: > p. 230 plate 125: Jerusalem garter, 1649 (souvenir for tourists?) > > There's more, but most of the pictures are diagrams of weaving patterns, > or examples worked by the author. > > If anyone could post other references to pictures, I'd be very grateful. > I've just started to study tablet weaving and I haven't been able to find > too many examples prior to 1650 A.D. Probably because there aren't too many. However, there are other sources besides Collingwood. I can send you 9 tablet weaving references that constitute the bibliography for the beginning cardweaving handout I've made up. Of these, the one that I list with the best historical section is : Crockett, Candace. CARD WEAVING. New York: Watson-Guptil, 1973. My notes say it has a lot of artifact pictures. Oh, also: Sutton, Ann and Holton, Pat. TABLET WEAVING. Newton Centre, Mass. Charles T. Branford Co., 1975. Also has good historical section. Do realize that there is some dispute whether or not the girdle of Rameses and certain other of the earliest examples are really cardweaving. You will find the matter endlessly debated sooner or later. There is also supposed to be some sort of CIBA monograph drifting around that documents some Swiss artifacts that are earlier than anything else documented. Thus far, I only have the word of one pamphleteer that this monograph actually exists; i.e., I have not been able to find a library that has it or a catalog that lists it. --Margaret Weller > > Jan > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > Jan McEwen, Department of Horticulture, University of Hawaii > SCA: Catriona Stewart, Barony of the Western Seas, Caid > Internet: jmcewen@hawaii.edu > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 07:17:44 -0700 (PDT) From: "Peter J. McDonough" Subject: Re: Help! Man's vest !!!!! Hi Everybody! Once again, thanks for the tips! My 2nd class in Tuesday and we are to bring in photos, etc. of our project, preferably from old photos, and then analyze them and start to sketch our project. Any ideas on what type of books to lOOk for at a library? I did not have any luck lOOking at the costume books at two librarys. One at a 2-year college, and the other the local library. I will be going to the Sac State Library Tuesday, the day of my night Vintage class. I ___accidently___ came across a huge book about old Vanity Fair articles, and one on Hemmingway as well, both with a few photos of people wearing 1920's vests. All were partial shots of the vests because they had jackets on. I need some full shots of vests. I think that I had better luck on looking at specifics like Hemmingway and Vanity Fair, rather than 1920's. I like practical advice. More about this later. Pete ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 12:22:49 -0600 (CST) From: "Rachel E. Mast" Subject: Re: Patterns On Sat, 27 Jan 1996, Jo Jann wrote: > > While we seem to be on the subject, I thought i would ask about SCA > period patterns. I recently got a few things from amazon drygoods, but > after looking thru the catolog, those few things were all i could find! > Does anyone know of a supplyer of just sca period (0-1500ad) patterns? > > thank you > steffanie > > please reply to Silky@teleport.com > I have several refferences from the net you could look up...I don't have the listing right now but if you have Netscape you could go to the any SCA home page and look for Rialto (I believe it is). They have a section for medevial weddings which has several listings of address for patterns and catalogs. If you don't have Netscape I can e-mail you the addresses (I work in a computer lab at USI and have plenty of time to type this stuff out. I could also send you the patterns in my BF's SCA handbook. I know (for the most part) that the patterns in it are period. Just e-mail me if you need or would like my help... Rachel Mast (SCA name Sasha) rmast@risc.usi.edu ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 12:40:31 -0600 (CST) From: "Rachel E. Mast" Subject: Re: Patterns On Sun, 28 Jan 1996, Rachel E. Mast wrote: > On Sat, 27 Jan 1996, Jo Jann wrote: > > > > While we seem to be on the subject, I thought i would ask about SCA > > period patterns. I recently got a few things from amazon drygoods, but > > after looking thru the catolog, those few things were all i could find! > > Does anyone know of a supplyer of just sca period (0-1500ad) patterns? > > > > thank you > > steffanie > > > > please reply to Silky@teleport.com > > Okay..Here I am again... The address is: Http://fermi.clas.virginia.edu/~gl8f/rialto.html#weddings If that doesn't get you want you need I can send my info as well.... Rachel Mast ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 16:05:02 -0600 (CST) From: "Rachel E. Mast" Subject: Re: Patterns > > > .... I recently got a few things from amazon drygoods, but > > > after looking thru the catolog, those few things were all i could find! > > > Does anyone know of a supplyer of just sca period (0-1500ad) patterns? I found another place you might want to check... I don't know if you tried here yet but it is the Rainments catalog...I haven't gotten one yet but I here that It's really good for patterns and already made garb. their e-mail address is: 72437.674@compuserve.com their address is: PO Box 930905 Pasadena, CA 91109 Phone #: (818) 797-2723 I also have several other addresses and Patterns (mundane like McCall's and Vogue....) and a few instructions or altering these patterns. All these I got from Rialto. Rachel Mast (SCA name Sasha) rmast@risc.usi.edu ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 15:26:59 -0800 (PST) From: Allan Terry Subject: Silk names Kathleen, Whenever someone else is choosing fabric for you, the best way to get what you want is to give that person actual samples to match. For example, a swatch of each fabric type you want, paint chips of the desired colors, and pictures showing any desired types of printed or woven design. This eliminates any confusion over fabric names on either end. In any case, fabrics are variable enough that just suppyling the right name won't necessarily get you exactly the right fabric for your project. Fran Grimble ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 20:08:28 -0600 (CST) From: BPH3213@ACS.TAMU.EDU Subject: Do you have _Dress_ Vol 19 (1992) ?? Hi all, I'm writing my dissertation on clothing in Virginia in the 1770's, and need to get ahold of an article out of Dress. It will take about a month to get it ILL, and I'm out of time, so I was hoping someone on the list has this journal, and could photocopy the article for me. I'd reimburse you, naturally. I need _Under Waistcoats and Drawers_ by Linda Baumgarten. It's Volume 19, 1992. If you have this and can help, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks, Bryan Howard bph3213@acs.tamu.edu ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 19:18:03 -0800 (PST) From: Dianne Karp Subject: Re: Pattern reducing On Sat, 27 Jan 1996, Stephen & Krista Fraser wrote: > Could someone please explain to me the best way to down size a pattern? See if your library has a book entitled ~Kings, Queens, Knights and Jesters~ It was put out but in assoc. with the Metropolitan Museum of Art ISBN 3 0-06-025241-3 or 0-06-025242-1. It has a very simple to follow (but too long to list here) method for drafting patterns for t tunics,circle cloaks, etc. If you cant find the book and want the directions,email me and I will jot them down for you. Dianne ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 09:38:40 -0500 From: Carol Bier Subject: Re: RAGS Home Page Can you do a link to the Home Page of The Textile Museum? We are accessed presently through the Association of Art Museum Directors On-Line (AAMDO), but will be expanding as we can. hhtp://www.gatech.edu/carlos/aamdo Thank you. Also, although I am writing from my personal e-mail address, The Textile Museum now has its own e-mail address: textilemus@aol.com Hope to hear from you. Thanks Carol Bier Curator, Eastern Hemisphere Collections The Textile Museum On Wed, 29 Nov 1995 shepgibb@mcn.org wrote: > Date: Wed, 29 Nov 1995 19:46:05 -0500 > From:shepgibb@mcn.org > To: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com > Subject: RAGS Home Page > > I am proud to announce the debut of my Home Page which, amongst other > things, will give you access to over 25 costume and textile sites, both > exhibits and information. > > Hope you enjoy browsing through it. R.L. Shep > > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 10:26:30 -0500 (EST) From: strickif@dunx1.ocs.drexel.edu (Ivy Strickler) Subject: sewing tips Two tips for all the neophytes from someone who has been sewing for 35 years (yikes!) 1. Look at commercial garments to see how they are made. They often have techniques which are far more efficient than "home sewing" and look better. I learned a lot while working for a children's clothes mfg. 2. Put a strip of masking tape on your sewing machine to help keep your seam width even. Those little guide lines are hard to keep track of while you're wrestling with 9 yards of material! Ivy Fleck Strickler Phone 215-895-1637 Drexel University Fax 215-895-4917 Nesbitt College of Design Arts strickif@dunx1.ocs.drexel.edu Philadelphia, PA 19104 "Never forget that life is like a Fellini movie, and you're getting to see it for free." ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jan 96 10:46:16 est From: Hilary_Oak_at_SLU1@ccmaillink.stlawu.edu Subject: Men's vest sources It is difficult to find pictures of vests without coats worn over them because "proper" men always wore a jacket or coat over them, except for times of work, physical exercise or undress. You might try looking in a Sears Roebuck Catalog or Harper's Bazaar Magazine of the 20's. There are also two terrific books: "Men's Fashion Illustrations from the Turn of the Century" published by Dover books; and "Victorian & Edwardian Fashion - A Photographic Survey" by Alison Gernsheim, but alas, even in these there are few 'uncovered' vest pictures, if any. If you look toward the working man's history, such as pictures of coal miners, or butlers and serving men, you may be more likely to find 'uncovered' vest pictures, but remember that these will be of a somewhat different quality and construction than those of an aristocratic gentleman. Hope This Helps. HO! ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Re: Help! Man's vest !!!!! Author: "Peter J. McDonough" at ~internet Date: 1/28/96 12:02 PM Hi Everybody! Once again, thanks for the tips! My 2nd class in Tuesday and we are to bring in photos, etc. of our project, preferably from old photos, and then analyze them and start to sketch our project. Any ideas on what type of books to lOOk for at a library? I did not have any luck lOOking at the costume books at two librarys. One at a 2-year college, and the other the local library. I will be going to the Sac State Library Tuesday, the day of my night Vintage class. I ___accidently___ came across a huge book about old Vanity Fair articles, and one on Hemmingway as well, both with a few photos of people wearing 1920's vests. All were partial shots of the vests because they had jackets on. I need some full shots of vests. I think that I had better luck on looking at specifics like Hemmingway and Vanity Fair, rather than 1920's. I like practical advice. More about this later. Pete ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 17:53:34 -0700 (PDT) From: "Peter J. McDonough" Subject: Men's 1920 Vest Hi Expert Sewers! Question: What material should I use for the 1920's era men's vest? 1. The Folkwear Vintage Vest package has a long list of material: Medium to heavy weight fabrics of cotton, silk, wool, linen, synthetics or blends with or without nap, such as brocade, velvet, corduroy, canvas, pique, velveteen, or synthetic suede. 2. With lining to be cotton, rayon, silk, synthetics or blends. 3. Also states the backs are cut from lining fabrics for comfort and to reduce bulk. *** I would think that my primary consideration would be a material that satisfies the teacher as authentic for the 1920's. *** Secondly, I would think that a material that would be easy for my rookie fingers to sew would be the next consideration. What else do I need to know to make what would be a simple decision as to fabric for all of you expert sewaholics out there. Every once in awhile I start to get cold feet and momentarily think about dropping out of this course since I am like a baby crawling on the floor watching all the grownups (sewers) breeze through this project blindfolded! You are my resource of strength to get through this project and I need some ideas on materials. I suspect that most in my class already know what they are going to sew based on the introductory comments on Day 1. Pete The Rookie Sewer ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V4 #24 ****************************** A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!