From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V4 #27 Reply-To: h-costume Sender: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Saturday, February 3 1996 Volume 4, Number 27 Compilation copyright (C) 1995 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: Any Indiana Fashion Historians? Wedding Traditions Women's Suffrage Movement Re: Women's Suffrage Movement Re: Embroidery width of trim (was: Re: nit-picking & fabric choices) Re: Duct tape jacket/vest? Duct tape jacket/vest? info Re: Duct tape jacket/vest? Re: Duct tape jacket... Re: Wedding Traditions Finally, some patterns Re: Duct tape jacket/vest? Re: Finally, some patterns Antique buttons Re: Wedding Traditions Re: Finally, some patterns Re: Duct tape jacket/vest? ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 31 Jan 1996 19:13:37 -0500 From: Sanni1@aol.com Subject: Any Indiana Fashion Historians? Hi, I got a request today from a woman who runs a Young Hoosiers group. She is having a "historic fashion show" and wants to know if there is anyone who would like to present a brief talk on fashion history for 5th & 6th graders in Columbus IN on Feb. 21. They can only pay $25 plus mileage, but it might be a fun thing to do. Let me know if you're interested, Sanni ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 31 Jan 1996 23:39:01 -0500 From: aquazoo@dcez.com (Ed Safford & Carol Kocian) Subject: Wedding Traditions I read that dressing bridesmaids alike dates back to Roman times. At that time, the bride AND bridesmaids dressed alike, and the groom AND groomsmen dressed alike as well. This way, the evil spirits would be confused as to the identity of the nuptial couple & presumably be unable to cast ill will upon them. I don't remember the book that had this information. I do remember, however, that the library had several books with customs on births, weddings, and death all in the same volume. Sorry to all for posting the 18thC source note twice! I'm still getting used to this home-based internet access. -Carol Kocian *^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^* This account is shared by Carol Kocian and Ed Safford. Carol can also be e-mailed at ckocian@epe.org ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1996 09:54:26 -0500 From: nfn01520@naples.net (Michelle R. Madison) Subject: Women's Suffrage Movement Does anyone have an idea on how to make "Votes for Women" sashes like the ones worn during the early part of this century by the women's suffrage movement? I am stumped! Thank you so much! Michelle nfn01520@naples.net ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ i feel like e. e. cummings at a punctuation festival ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1996 09:19:39 -0600 (CST) From: Gwyndlyn J Ferguson Subject: Re: Women's Suffrage Movement On Thu, 1 Feb 1996, Michelle R. Madison wrote: > Does anyone have an idea on how to make "Votes for Women" sashes like the > ones worn during the early part of this century by the women's suffrage > movement? I am stumped! > Actually I haven't gotten to that part yet. However, since the topic has been brought up, I have a question. Does anyone here know of a source for a "suffregette" dress from the early twentieth century? I have a professor who is quite intent on having one. She would prefer a ready-made dress (with sash), but I told her she may end up having to have it made. What about appropriate and usable patterns? I hesitate to tell her that I'd make it for her, seeing as I'm supposed to be finishing a thesis and all. :) I have a rather old Amazon catalog, and I have no problems getting a newer one, are there any other suggestions? My areas of interest and "expertise" end somewhat before this, so I don't ahve easy answers for her. Thank you! Gwyn *Gwyn Ferguson***Western Illinois University *Dept. of History***Macomb, Illinois *Internet: GJ-Ferguson@wiu.edu <<<Also, is crewel work the same as embroidery or not? > >Krista >sunfire@muskoka.com Krista, crewel work refers to a surface embroidery executed with wool threads dating from early 17thC (Jacobean) England. Crewel work can be found in domestic furnishing of the period, such as bed hangings and cushion ocovers. Although crewel work was done in polychrome wools, the use of green, blue, and gold combinations was most prevalent. The style commonly associated with crewel work is a coil and stem pattern with leaves, flowers, and some animals mixed throughout. Crewel was a period term for wool embroidery threads. Although crewel style can be copied using other threads such as silk or cotton, it is not crewel unless it is executed in wool. Hope that helps, Erin Moody ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1996 15:18:30 -0500 From: Gerekr@aol.com Subject: width of trim (was: Re: nit-picking & fabric choices) >Another important thing is to make sure that the width of the band of trim is >appropriate to the period of the garment -- study period paintings for this. >Sanni Can't agree too strongly. The best trim I've ever had is on my navy wool overdress, Kohler's fig. 151/152 "German 11th C." It's 2 1/2 inches wide. That is, the three strips of trim that make it up are laid out to LOOK 2 1/2 inches wide. The proportion is exactly like in the Kohler, and numerous other illuminations of the period (I think there's a Ruth and Boaz we started from). I get (positive) comments on it all the time. It looks a bit like this: |||==||| --@@@@@--|||==||| |||==||| --@@@@@--|||==||| |||==||| --@@@@@--|||==||| 1st and 3d columns (|||==|||) are a black velvet strip banded by gold on both sides (1/2 inch wide); column 2 (@@@@@) is a 1-inch tape with an appropriate design (not describable), also gold on black the dark navy spacing (--) between 1 & 2 and 2 & 3 register as more black spacing so it really looks like one piece from farther than about an inch away My husband & I worked on getting the combination of trims right together, and he did the application. Our background is SCA; we've been studying costume in general for about 15 years each. Patsy Dunham/Chimene ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 02 Feb 1996 18:22:58 -0500 From: Elizabeth Lear Subject: Re: Duct tape jacket/vest? >What is placed under the duct tape, ... .. . a plastic bag? >I saw it all but was casually watching since my focus was >on something else. I surmise that the duct taping custom >"pattern" is cut off and used as a custom fitting and converted >into use to make a vest or jacket. I usually use an expendable t-shirt. This is a terrific way to make a corset or bodice pattern! Just remember to add the seam allowances when you make the pattern. ...eliz ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 14:29:07 -0700 (PDT) From: "Peter J. McDonough" Subject: Duct tape jacket/vest? At northern Ren Faire, I saw someone duct tape a persons upper torso to ultimately make a custom made jacket or vest. Does anyone know the procedure? What is placed under the duct tape, ... .. . a plastic bag? I saw it all but was casually watching since my focus was on something else. I surmise that the duct taping custom "pattern" is cut off and used as a custom fitting and converted into use to make a vest or jacket. At that time, I was not interested in learning to do some light sewing, like clothing repair, or make a vest, or perhaps cotton pants with decent size pockets like an Army parachutist's pants. I have a great pair of shorts with great pockets and would like to duplicate them in some long pants. Pete ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 12:55:16 -0800 From: WKober@eworld.com Subject: info I am interested in obtaining old-fashioned, very high, very stiff collars from the 1890's. This also includes pictures, catalogs, and patterns, as well as corresponding with others with this similar interest. Is it possible to get information on this topic ? Thank you, WK ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 02 Feb 1996 18:34:29 -0800 From: Veda Crewe Joseph Subject: Re: Duct tape jacket/vest? Peter J. McDonough wrote: > > At northern Ren Faire, I saw someone duct tape a persons > upper torso to ultimately make a custom made jacket or vest. > Does anyone know the procedure? > > What is placed under the duct tape, ... .. . a plastic bag? I have done this over a T shirt. You can not do your own body. This technique works mostly for patterns that also hold the body (shape it) in various ways. It is a great way to design a corset for instance. The main thing is, when wrapping, to cause the body to shape itself to the silouette that you want. You then take a marker and draw the lines where you want your seams. To remove, cut along one of the seam lines. surgical blunted scissors are good for this purpose as they will cut the wrap without cutting into flesh. After removing the wrap, cut along all of the seam lines. Lie each piece as flat as you can on muslin and trace it. Be sure to "true" up your pieces by placing the opposite side comparable piece over this tracing and if there are any discrepancies in the dimensions, split the difference. Then add your seam allowance and cut out the pieces, cutting two of any matched pieces. Stay stitch your pieces, then baste together and fit. Make any adjustments nessesary and you have a pattern. There can be problems with taping men, especially squishy men. The pieces can end up too tight. For women's bodices in particular this can be a realy fast and dirty way to get a pattern which actually shapes the body to the period. Forget doing this for pants and shirts. Anything with ease (space to move inside) is easier to just measure, drape and fit. The other option is to trace the pieces of a garment you already have that fits and use that for a pattern. Don't forget to add seam allowances. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 17:31:53 -0600 (CST) From: moadeeb@io.com Subject: Re: Duct tape jacket... Pete, The method of duct-tape pattern making is very easy. First, just put on an old T-shirt. Then have someone wrap duct tape around you in the basic shape and size of your would-be item. Remember to leave breathing room! Then, use a magic marker to do further refinements. Next, being VERY careful, cut up the front of the shirt to remove. (Ladies, wear the undergarments that you would be wearing with the outfit and be extra careful in the cutting stage.) Then you can do further cuts to make the actual pattern pieces, and trace them on to paper. Viola! Your own custom pattern! I have found this most useful in making tight-fitting busom flattering bodices for women. Hope this helps! Buttercup ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 16:10:21 -0800 From: gwjchris@ix.netcom.com (Bill and Glenna Christen ) Subject: Re: Wedding Traditions You wrote: It was not unusual in the mid-19th Century for the brides maids to wear white and the bride a colored dress or a white dress if she is wealthy enough to justify a dress she could rarely wear afterwards. The white dresses on the bridesmaids (unmarried young women) symbolised the purity and maidenhood the bride was bringing to the marraige. According to the research done by my seamstress, Susan Thimsen in Minnesota, the practice of giving all the guests small flower or ribbon tokens at 19th century weddings (now only the wedding party gets the flowers!) was a decendent of the pieces of the bride's wedding dress and later the ribbons attached to the brides dress that were taken by the guests as verification that the couple actually did get married dating from the times when almost no one could read or write. The ribbons served as proof of marraige. Glenna Jo Christen LHS, LSFS, MSAS & HSP gwjchris@ix.netcom.com > -Carol Kocian > >*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^* >This account is shared by Carol Kocian and Ed Safford. Carol can also be >e-mailed at ckocian@epe.org > > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 02 Feb 1996 17:03:50 -0800 From: LMetz Subject: Finally, some patterns I just wanted everyone to know that I have finally been able to find pattern books with many vintage patterns in them. The patterns are reduced in size to the ratio of 1/8" = 1", but nonetheless, they are there and there are lots of them. These patterns have great illustrations of both the exterior and interior of the garment as to show lining, boning, and the way the garment is supposed to be attached or put on. There aren't complete instructions on how to put the clothing together, but it's easy enough to figure out from the comments and illustrations. These books are called: Patterns of Fashion, and there are several in a series (each book consists of patterns from a certain era...i.e., 1680's - 1800's or something similar to that). They run $30-$35 for each book. The bookstore I went to only had three and of the three, only one had men's clothing in it (the one with renaissance patterns). The other two were women or young women only. The books contain a fair amount of history also. I just thought I would let you know, just in case there was someone else who didn't know where to begin. Also, in stead of checking the sewing or history sections, try the technical theatre or drama section. This was the mistake I kept making which was why I could never find any patterns (not to mention that no one in the bookstore knew where to look either). Lissa ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 21:40:35 -0500 From: NeaDods@aol.com Subject: Re: Duct tape jacket/vest? Pete - the duct tape method is really only good for making slopers, dressmaker's dummies, and form-fitting clothing - NOT loose-fitting clothes like you describe. The best way to duplicate your pants, if you can't find a pattern, is to pull them inside out and trace them on some scrap fabric. I've used the duct meathod for creating a dressmaker's dummy and recreating a stuffed toy, and I've seen it used for boots. 1) Cover the thing to be taped in scrap fabric (I've seen t-shirts used mostly; I think plastic would be uncomfortable! 2) cover it thoroughly in horozontal wraps of tape. Then vertical wraps, then at least one layer of diagonal wraps. 3) draw an approximation of the seam lines of the final product (whatever it is you want to sew with the pattern you're making) and cut along the lines. That's it, unless you're making a dressmaker's dummy, where you slit it up the back, seal all the openings but the neck, and fill it with expanding foam insulation. Nea neadods@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 19:40:06 -0800 From: gwjchris@ix.netcom.com (Bill and Glenna Christen ) Subject: Re: Finally, some patterns You wrote: > >I just wanted everyone to know that I have finally been able to find >pattern books with many vintage patterns in them. These books are called: Patterns of Fashion, and there are several in a series These are the "Janet Arnold" books if I'm not mistaken. It seems more than one person has "ripped off" her patterns and published them at commercial patterns with varying degrees of success. Some of the original wearers of the garments were rather oddly shaped by modern standards to say the least! Glenna Jo Christen LHS, LSFS, MSAS & HSP gwjchris@ix.netcom.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 20:05:35 -0800 (PST) From: Allan Terry Subject: Antique buttons I recently went to a store I haven't been to for a long time--Exclusive Buttons. They carry old store stock buttons from Victorian through the 1940s or so. Lots of nice materials--mother-of-pearl, metal, crystal, etc. Quantities are usually large enough for sewing. (I've never understood why button collectors want only one of everything.) The prices aren't bad. They say they will do mail order if you explain what you want. Their address is: Exclusive Buttons 10252 San Pablo Avenue El Cerrito, CA 94530 (510) 223-1442 (510) 524-5606 Fran Grimble ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 02 Feb 1996 22:14:51 -0800 From: LMetz Subject: Re: Wedding Traditions I have read, in several places, that originally "Queen to be" Victoria (I think) was the first one to really wear white and that's how it became a tradition - out of fad. Her bridesmaids also wore white, the same dress as she. At the time, white was not a tradition and thus, was not worn as a symbol of purity...the symbolism developed over a number of years. Before she turned white into a popular colour for wedding dresses, a bride would choose a dress that she could wear again and again, often opting for a floral pattern of some kind. Again, this is only what I have read...not what I "know". L ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 02 Feb 1996 22:16:42 -0800 From: LMetz Subject: Re: Finally, some patterns I am not sure if they are the "Janet Arnold" books or not, all I know is that I finally found some patterns after years of looking. I am currently in the process of enlarging several patterns to their original size and adapting them for modern wear. L ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 3 Feb 1996 01:53:36 -0800 (PST) From: Conrad Hodson Subject: Re: Duct tape jacket/vest? On Fri, 2 Feb 1996, Elizabeth Lear wrote: > > >What is placed under the duct tape, ... .. . a plastic bag? > >I saw it all but was casually watching since my focus was > >on something else. I surmise that the duct taping custom > >"pattern" is cut off and used as a custom fitting and converted > >into use to make a vest or jacket. > > I usually use an expendable t-shirt. This is a terrific way to make a > corset or bodice pattern! Just remember to add the seam allowances > when you make the pattern. > > ...eliz > You can use a T-shirt or old tights or whatever fits the area you are clothing. Or just saran wrap. Whatever you use, your model will appreciate coverage that keeps the tape off bare skin. Sketch your seam lines with something like a felt pen, correct as needed, and then cut the thing off the model. Bandage scissors are really a good idea here; their points are blunt and won't hurt the skin. Conrad Hodson ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V4 #27 ****************************** A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!