From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V4 #29 Reply-To: h-costume Sender: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Monday, February 5 1996 Volume 4, Number 29 Compilation copyright (C) 1995 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: Re: A market for vintage clothing Re: Dress forms Another Dressmaker Dummy Idea White wedding gown Re: Duct tape jacket/vest? [Fwd: Re: Duct tape jacket/vest?] RE: Men's period collars 19th Century Advice Costumecon in Seattle Re: White weddings Real patterning skills Re: White weddings (plus Black mourning) Block printing of fabric Re: Block printing of fabric Bicycle clothing Turbans, etc. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 4 Feb 1996 21:37:17 -0800 (PST) From: close (Diane Barlow Close) Subject: Re: A market for vintage clothing LMetz wrote: > I was wondering if any of you out there know wether or not there is an > actual market for vintage clothing out there. I find it very hard to Just FYI, persons interested in vintage clothing discussions or in buying or selling vintage clothing, should check out the Vintage Clothing Mailing List. It's been a while since I posted the details, so here they are: Vintage Clothing and Costume Jewelry Mailing List Contact: listserv@brownvm.brown.edu Purpose: The purpose of this list is to discuss existing vintage clothing and vintage costume jewelry, of all eras. "Existing" is the key word here, and conversations concentrate on how to find such clothing and jewelry, where to buy it, how to judge its quality, how much to pay for it, how to wear it, etc. Some restoration topics, such as how to use parts of damaged goods in other garments or jewelry settings are suitable topics, too. Announcements for estate sales, advertisements for sale or wanted, and pointers to shops are all welcome on this list. Subscribing to vintage: Mail listserv@brownvm.brown.edu with the following message in the body: subscribe vintage Vintage page on the WWW: (http://www.cs.brown.edu/people/smh/vintage/vintage.html) The main purpose is to make the old archives publicly available, but there are links to lists of vintage clothing stores, resources, etc. List Owner: Suzanne Hader smh@cs.brown.edu - -- Diane Close I'm at lunch all day. :-) If a Canadian Had Said It First (The Globe & Mail): "Cry havoc, and let loose the dogs of a peacekeeping mission!" ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 4 Feb 1996 22:34:34 -0800 From: fishcat@hooked.net (Trystan L. Bass) Subject: Re: Dress forms >One of the clothing design courses I took in college had a session for >students who didn't have dress forms. I had a form, so didn't make one. >However, I heard they worked in teams. The person the form was to be made >for oiled herself with salad oil, then put on a thigh-length T-shirt. The >other students coated her with paper-mache. One problem was it could get >too bulky in places. When the paper-mache was dry enough, they cut her out >of the form with a sharp knife. The oil was to facilitate getting her out. > >Fran Grimble this sounds awfully uncomfortable... plus the dress form would not be at all adjustable, being made of paper-mache I have heard of people making dress forms the same way you do the duct-tape patterns -- tape someone up from thigh to neck, carefully cut the taped thing off, then use it as a pattern to sew a snug body form that's stuffed with foam or pillows. At least with this dress form, you could corset it and get a more realistic *squish* @->->-- Trystan L. Bass --<-<-@ fishcat@hooked.net http://www.hooked.net/users/fishcat/ work email: trystan@livewire.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 09:32:25 -0500 (EST) From: Astrida E B Schaeffer Subject: Another Dressmaker Dummy Idea I've also made myself a dressmaker's dummey, based on steps outlined in a Threads magazine from several years ago. They used plaster of paris instead of duct tape. I put on the requisite old t-shirt (and old bra: the water seeps through and ruins the underwear too; I suppose if you want to do a corseted figure you could also put a layer of plastic between yourself and the t-shirt to protect the corset). Then I tried to stand still and not shift while my husband applied the plaster strips (he liked that part! ;) ) Once the plaster dried (it didn't take that long) he cut the form off me up each side. I taped the form back together, covered the bottom, arms, and neck with duct tape. I like the idea of using packing peanuts as filler; it sounds easier than what we used, which was chunks of white styrofoam (the kind they make cheap coolers out of). After we put the chunks of foam into the form, we filled it with expanding spray-in house insulation foam. Once the foam had cured, I cut the plaster cast off. Then I carved a hole in the bottom (this would have been easier to do before filling the form with foam; the next one I make will have some kind of tube in place so the stand will have a place to go).I had a ratty old bar stool, the kind that swivels on a central post, and I removed the seat and slipped the dummy onto the post. I have since also salvaged a coat stand that someone was throwing out; same idea. It's a post that comes ready-made with a base, and I've removed the top half so the post isn't too tall. It'll be my base for the next dummy. Also, since the dummy just slides onto the base, it's possible to use the base for several dummies (let's see, today I want to make something for a corseted figure-- I'll use THAT form this time.) I used t-shirt fabric (it's Monday morning; I can't remember what the fabric's called!!!) that I got out of the remnants bin to cover the dummy; I just pinned it in place with small-headed pins. I've have the thing now for about five years, and it's held up very well. The only problem I have is that my shape has changed in five years ( :( ) and the form isn't quite me anymore. But it's fairly easy to pad it out as needed. If anyone wants, I can look for the specific Threads issue I worked from, it's at home somewhere. Astrida Astrida Schaeffer "All life on Earth is a fairy tale in which outlandish creatures pursue impossible lives" - Rutherford Platt ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 11:21:15 -0500 From: reaves@tuvok.marian.edu (Anne Reaves) Subject: White wedding gown Don't think of Queen Victoria's wedding dress as disposable in the modern sense. Long before the wedding, Honiton lacemakers were commissioned to create fabulous white lace for her gown. After she no longer wore that white dress, she had the lace transferred to other dresses throughout her lifetime (and increasing girth), and loaned it to daughters for their weddings. In Edith Wharton's novels set in Victorian New York, brides wore their wedding dresses to formal evening activities for a full year. At the Texas Memorial Museum in Austin, 19th c wedding dresses donated to their collection are often in modish colors rather than white, and seem to have been worn on the wedding trip, especially if that trip was to Europe. It's fascinating how family records have survived indicating which fans, parasols, etc. were bought on the wedding trip. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Feb 96 11:04:49 -0500 From: jlk@in.net (JILL L. KASSEBAUM) Subject: Re: Duct tape jacket/vest? >At northern Ren Faire, I saw someone duct tape a persons >upper torso to ultimately make a custom made jacket or vest. >Does anyone know the procedure? Duct Tape patterns are made by taping duct tape over an old t-shirt that fits fairly well (but not too snug-ly) and that the person gaining the pattern doesn't mind having cut up. :-) The duct tape is placed over the areas that the fabric will eventually cover and then seam lines are drawn on the "pattern" (still on the person) in the locations where there are to be seams in the finished garment. Then the "pattern" is cut off of the person, usually at the center front or center back seam. Each piece is then cut at each of the seam lines. The pieces will be three dimentional, but with a small amount of effort (flattening, etc.) they can be some of the best fitting patterns anyone could wish for. Good luck and have fun! :-) Jill - ---------------------------------------------------------- Jill L. Kassebaum jlk@in.net Jillian Stevynsdaughter - ---------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 05 Feb 1996 11:13:40 -0800 From: Veda Crewe Joseph Subject: [Fwd: Re: Duct tape jacket/vest?] Received: from mail04.mail.aol.com (mail04.mail.aol.com [152.163.172.53]) by maple.sover.net (8.6.12/8.6.12) with ESMTP id AAA16605 for ; Mon, 5 Feb 1996 00:57:49 -0500 From: WRASaylor@aol.com Received: by mail04.mail.aol.com (8.6.12/8.6.12) id AAA08376 for monalisa@sover.net; Mon, 5 Feb 1996 00:57:18 -0500 Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 00:57:18 -0500 Message-ID: <960205005717_312836359@mail04.mail.aol.com> To: monalisa@sover.net Subject: Re: Duct tape jacket/vest? Status: X-Mozilla-Status: 0011 > After removing the wrap, cut along all of the seam lines. Lie > each piece as flat as you can on muslin and trace it. Be sure to "true" > up your pieces by placing the opposite side comparable piece over this > tracing and if there are any discrepancies in the dimensions, split the > difference. Then add your seam allowance and cut out the pieces, > cutting two of any matched pieces. Be careful when "trueing up" a pattern. People often have drastically different sizes/shapes from one side to the other. This is especially true if the person your taping/draping participates in a sport that uses the sides of the body differently, they get real lopsided. If the person is lopsided, the best fit for them is cut each pattern piece individually rather than on a fold. - Rhodry rsaylor@scs.unr.edu ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 05 Feb 96 11:48:21 est From: Hilary_Oak_at_SLU1@ccmaillink.stlawu.edu Subject: RE: Men's period collars There is a place called Tuxedo Wholesaler in Scottsdale Arizona (800)828-2802 that sells period collars of all styles in a variety of sizes for $3.00 each. Tell 'em I sent ya! - Hilary Oak ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 11:12:34 -0700 (MST) From: cwood@primenet.com (Ysabeau) Subject: 19th Century Advice Hello-- Once again I throw myself on your expertise! I have to attend a recreation event at Fort Verde, Arizona the last weekend of March, and of course I have to attend this event in costume. I was hoping that some one might be able to give me advice as to the easiest way to make something that looks appropriate and yet won't take a huge amount of time and effort to put together. The period is 1870 to 1891, but I was thinking of some time in the mid 1870s. I already most of the incidentals--the shoes, the corset (thanks to all who helped me with that monster!), etc. What I really need is a simple not to gaudy middle class dress. I have gone through Dressed for Photographer and seen samples of such, but have been unable to find a pattern that approximates many of the plain everyday dresses shown in the photos. Any suggestions has to how I can pull this off will be more than gratefully received. Thanks in advance, Ysabeau cwood@primenet.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 10:15:54 -0800 (PST) From: Kelly Keith Subject: Costumecon in Seattle Hello-- I currently am not a member of the Costumecon group, but since I live in the Seattle area I am interested in joining so I can go to the 1996 convention. Are there past attendees out there who can tell me whether or not the the membership rate ($65.00) is it worth it? Will I be amazed, enlightened, and utterly fulfilled? Or will I walk away feeling dupped out of 65 clams? Anxious to hear.... Kelly ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 13:31:12 -0500 (EST) From: betsyp@vnet.net Subject: Re: White weddings > Wedding dresses that have been stored for sentiment were not necessarily > worn only once first. Also, as a collector I've found out that when people > find any white dress in the family trunk, they often automatically assume > it's a wedding dress. They also automatically assume any black dress is > mourning. Black was a sensible, tasteful color for "good" dresses, > especially for women who couldn't afford many and for older women (widowed > or not). I wanted to back Fran up with a period example: According to THESE HAPPY GOLDEN YEARS, Laura Ingalls married Almanzo Wilder in a black dress, because it was her best new dress. (Her mother, mildly worried, quotes the proverb "Married in black, you'll wish yourself back", which Laura counters by promising to wear "something old, something new, something borrowed, and something blue.") Black dresses were hard-wearing and stood up better to the inevitable stains of those pre-drycleaning days. > Finally, many other types of dresses have survived in wonderful > condition, which implies careful wearing and storage. People attach > sentimental value to many occasions besides weddings, which may not be > readily understandable to others. Sometimes the garment may have been a > special gift from a loved one. When I was thirteen or so, my grandmother, a former professional seamstress, made me a coordinating outfit of slacks, blouse, skirt, and vest, all in mustards and browns. I keep the outfit, which I doubt anybody will ever want to wear again, because it reminds me of my grandmother. A costume historian like Fran, opening the cardboard box, could not know why these ordinary-looking clothes were saved. Come to think of it, I should put a note in the box. Betsy Perry ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 05 Feb 96 13:37:06 est From: Hilary_Oak_at_SLU1@ccmaillink.stlawu.edu Subject: Real patterning skills Regarding this duct tape pattern method: I'm not a purist or a prude but I do think it is worth the time and effort to learn how to correctly measure a body and draft a pattern if you are serious about creating clothing from scratch - partcularly period clothing. Understanding how the body is shaped and how measurements relate to a pattern is an invaluable skill. It comes in handy every time you build or alter a garment, use a commercial pattern, enlarge an historic pattern, or want to recreate something from a research picture. True patterning techniques are an art we should not let die. The math and geometry is not hard, and the more you do it the easier it becomes. (And it doesn't take all that long to do.) Try it. It is a skill you'll use forever. - Hilary ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 11:13:24 -0800 From: gwjchris@ix.netcom.com (Bill and Glenna Christen ) Subject: Re: White weddings (plus Black mourning) You wrote: >Brides often had the white wedding dress made in an evening style, and >it was customary to wear such dresses for formal events after the >wedding. A woman who was married in a day dress was more likely to >choose a colored fabric. At least in the mid-19th Century the bride generally was expected to wear her wedding dress as her best dress for at least 2 years after her wedding. My guess is she was often times pregnant before that time was up and had to wait till she could go out in it again (with a few seams let out? :-)) >They also automatically assume any black dress is mourning. Black was >a sensible, tasteful color for "good" dresses, especially for women >who couldn't afford many and for older women (widowed or not). Black has also been a high fashion color off and on through out at least the last couple centuries. The main difference between fashion black and mourning black, again at least in the mid-ninteeth century, is that mourning black was made of very flat, non-reflective material such as bombazine. Fashion black dresses would have been of shiny silks often with more trim and special styling features than a plain mourning dress. Glenna Jo Christen gwjchris@ix.netcom.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 14:47:18 -0500 From: COakley@aol.com Subject: Block printing of fabric Does anyone have information on when the earliest known blockprinting of fabric was done? I know that hand painting goes WAY back but what about other methods of applying painted designs in such a way as to make a pattern reproducable? Thank You... Chas. Oakley ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 14:29:18 -0600 (CST) From: Teresa Shannon Subject: Re: Block printing of fabric > > Does anyone have information on when the earliest known > blockprinting of fabric was done? I know that hand painting > goes WAY back but what about other methods of applying > painted designs in such a way as to make a pattern > reproducable? > > Thank You... Chas. Oakley > Are you interested in researching the history of block printing? Or, is there a time period for which you would like to block print something and wish to know if it was done then? While block-printing goes through many times, there were time and places in-between where it was probably not done or not quite so prevalent. If you look in the Davenport book under the medieval section there are some spectacular German block prints that are very complex, akin to Victorian wallpaper, from the 13th or 14th centuries showing photos from scraps in the V&A, and the Met. Rolled seals were very common in the summerian, akkadian and babylonian kingdoms, whether they used them on clothes, I don't know. Mostly intended for writing and contracts we have many rolled seals from the ancient period so the technology and concept are at least 10,000-15,000 years old. But like I said, I am unfamiliar with evidence on clothing. Also, block printing is fast and "shoddy" it won't stand to scrutiny or punishing elements and, at least in the 14th century England, was used to create banners and matching celebratory paraphenalia for instant spectacles (fabric painting also). It would seem the same true for clothes then, quick we need matching cloaks, print or paint it on. Woven or embroidered fabrics would always be preferred if time permitted. Of course when the industrial revolution came... Teresa ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 05 Feb 1996 15:47:28 -0600 From: Jan Rosenthal Subject: Bicycle clothing I'm looking for patterns, pictures, whatever info there is on bicycle clothing from about 1890-1905, the years of the "bicycle craze." Can anyone point me in the direction of such things? I have found a few pictures from Harper's Bazar about 1894, plus the bicycle dress pattern from one of the Campbell's catalogues . . . would be interested in anything else anyone has run across. All help greatly appreciated! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 18:14:07 -0500 From: kl94ag@badger.ac.BrockU.CA (Kathleen Leggat) Subject: Turbans, etc. >Date: Sun, 4 Feb 1996 11:57:53 -0500 (EST) >From: Drea Leed >Subject: Turbans, etc. > >I've had a request from a non-email-blessed friend of mine concerning >middle-eastern garb, specifically turbans. He's found a number of books >on middle eastern clothing, but some of them say contradictory things and >there's no information in any of them on the proper way to wear a turban. > >Can anyone here give me the names of some good, reliable books on Middle >eastern clothing, and/or instructions on turban wrapping? > >Thanks, > >Drea The *best* Middle Eastern book I've seen yet is (I think) a Scadian publication. It's called _The Thousand and One Years of Middle Eastern Costume 600-1600_ by Diana Brythonwen. It is scholarly, covers every type of Middle Eastern clothing (i.e. Arabic, Persian, North Africa, Steppes Peoples, etc.) and she even includes colour choices based on commmon embroidery floss colours, so you can perfectly recreate the look. She discusses wrapping, jewellery, headgear, footwear and includes nice, simple patterns. I got mine from a friend. Perhaps someone knows how to order this book? Kathleen (Catriona) ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V4 #29 ****************************** A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!