From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V4 #30 Reply-To: h-costume Sender: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Tuesday, February 6 1996 Volume 4, Number 30 Compilation copyright (C) 1995 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: notes in boxes costumecon Re: 19th Century Advice Pre-Raphaelite style? Re: Pre-Raphaelite style? Re: A market for vintage clothing Re: Real patterning skills duct tape and dress forms Re: Costumecon in Seattle Re: Women's Portraits Re: Nuns' clothing Re: Bicycle Costume Re: Costumecon in Seattle Re: Nuns' clothing Costumecon Bias weave hose Re: Costumecon in Seattle ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 15:21:58 -0800 (PST) From: Julie Cheetham Subject: notes in boxes Betsy Perry commented that she should probably put a note in the box with the outfit her grandmother made for her so that "posterity" would know why she kept it and what it meant to her. As a plea from any of us who have catalogued costume for museums, maintained collections, done costume research or inherited garments may I second, "YES, PLEASE PLEASE PUT SOME IDENTIFYING INFORMATION WITH ANY GARMENT OR TEXTILE YOU ARE SAVING!" This is true whether it is something which has been passed down to you with verbal family history or something you yourself have chosen to save. If you have a photograph of the owner wearing it, that is a wonderful item to keep with the garment. In addition, anything you know about the following will be useful: 1. The date it was made or purchased. 2. If made, who made it and where; if purchased, where and for what amount 3. The composition of the fabric; 4. Name and a short bio of the person who owned the garment 5. If made for a special event, what that was, date, description, etc 6. If kept for sentimental reasons, what those were 7. Any alterations the garment has been through, if known 8. History of how the garment was stored (found in a wood trunk in an attic, etc)--information which may help with conservation Julie Lassiter Cheetham cheetham@u.washington.edu ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 05 Feb 1996 18:44:42 -0800 From: mark_hutchinson@mindlink.bc.ca (mark hutchinson) Subject: costumecon I sure hope I'm sending this to the right address...the historical costume list, right? Anyway, I've heard a couple of mentions of a "costumecon" in Seattle. Since I live near there, I would dearly like to know more about this event. What it is? Is it open to the public? When? Where? How can I get more info? Thanks for any input. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 21:46:52 -0500 From: twinstar@inch.com (David Gorgos) Subject: Re: 19th Century Advice . The period is 1870 to 1891, but I was thinking of some time in the >mid 1870s. Well, you could always take the easy route and dress like a simple pioneer-type woman, who wore very plain cotton dresses with small print, long -- slightly puffed -- sleeves, a slight waist, and a long, not full skirt. You could probably pick up something at Laura Ashley, if long enough, that would be a good approximation. It's not very glamorous, but then again, it doesn't require hoops or bustles either. You should wear it with a white cotton or flannel petticoat or two and red or black knit stockings. I should add that I THINK this is correct; I'm new to the list and the 1970s are not my era d'etre. I hope this advice is correct and helpful. - --Arielle ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 21:55:01 -0500 From: twinstar@inch.com (David Gorgos) Subject: Pre-Raphaelite style? I would appreciate any comments from anyone on how to make my life a little more Pre-Raphaelite. I already collect clothing from 1900-1920, but I would like to start incorporating the Edwardian/Art Noveau look into my everyday appearance. Any suggestions? I would particularly like to hear from people on how to get my makeup to look right, and how to imitate hair styles of the period, and if anyone knows of designers or stores who sell reasonably priced facsimiles of styles which evoke this era. I know how I am *supposed* to look, I just need the sources to help me get there. I'm new to the list, so I hope this appropriate fodder for discussion.. .thanks in advance. - --Arielle ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 22:51:34 -0500 (EST) From: Drea Leed Subject: Re: Pre-Raphaelite style? Well, first and foremost, red hair is extremely pre-raphealite. Lots of mail-order botique magazines have the long, flowy, classical clothes of the era. Fluffy blouses and those silk crinkle skirts would be appropriate. Past Times catalog has a lot of "pre raphealite" items that they sell. Drea ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 23:09:47 -0500 From: NeaDods@aol.com Subject: Re: A market for vintage clothing Lissa, you ask: >Is there a specific area or market I should be looking into? >Does anyone have their own vintage clothing business--that is, not >selling the actual clothing, but recreations? Good heavens, yes there's a market! You don't say what period clothing you make, but there are thriving living history groups spanning all of written history, and not all those reenactors like to sew. Contact the local living history groups if you can find them, or take out an ad in Threads and let them find you. You might also want to see if you could do contract work for established historical costume providers. Nea neadods@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 23:10:09 -0500 From: NeaDods@aol.com Subject: Re: Real patterning skills Hilary wrote: >I do think it is worth the time and effort to learn how to correctly measure a >body and draft a pattern if you are serious about creating clothing from scratch I half agree and half disagree. Having tried duct taping, draping, and flat patternmaking, I do consider flat patternmaking the best of the techniques. However, I would never understand how to design and manipulate those flat pieces across the three-dimensional body if I had not spent several years learning to drape and tape. Nea neadods@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 22:19:18 -0600 (CST) From: Gwyndlyn J Ferguson Subject: duct tape and dress forms For tose of you who have made a dress form using the duct-tape or paper mace methods and filled them with the expanding foam, how much foam did it take? And how does the foam hold up to pinning? Gwyn *Gwyn Ferguson***Western Illinois University *Internet: GJ-Ferguson@wiu.edu <<< Subject: Re: Costumecon in Seattle > Are there past attendees out there who can tell me whether > or not the the membership rate ($65.00) is it worth it? Will I be > amazed, enlightened, and utterly fulfilled? Or will I walk away feeling > dupped out of 65 clams? Last time we went around on this there were two factions, fairly far apppart. Some of us love them and some of us hate them. I'm probably as close to neutral as they come, and I hate some parts and love others! CostumeCon grew out of science fiction conventions and a lot of the culture is based on that (and drives some people up the wall). Each CC is run by a different group of folks, so some things are different, but the pattern is usually the same. I'm not a member of this year's (because I didn't know if I could make it up there, and then I got an opportunity to do something that weekend that I wanted to do even more and grabbed it) so I don't know the details, but roughly you can expect-- Presentation Masquerades--one fantasy, one historical, one "future fashion show" Panels and Presentations--Usually put on by other costumers on a volunteer basis (so the presentations may not be really slick, although the information is usually excellent because the people asked to participate are asked because they do excellent work related to whatever the topic). Also usually some workshops. Socializing and networking--including some sort of a introductory party the first night (usually with a theme that allows for some role-playing if you want and a vast array of "accept able" garb, a con suite in which people hang out (and are occassionally catty about other people's sewing), various small events (the last one I was at included a Victorian swimming party at the pool) and a lot of just hanging out and talking all over. Displays and Sales--The Dealers' Room is wonderful, usually (especially for folks who don't live near convenient sources of corset boning and bonnet frames). Displays vary, but are usually pretty cool. I THINK (although I'm not really sure) that the people who love costume con tend to be generalists rather than specialists, because they tend to go broad and cover many subjects rather than going very deeply into one. You certainly have to be at least a bit interested in periods and techniques outside your area of expertise/interest. The fantasy/historical mix varies, but both are significant portions, so if you can't abide fantasy costuming it's not for you. (Ditto historical, but I assume that people on this list are interested in historical costuming so that's won't be a problem. Another love/hate trigger seems to be how you feel about recreating, reinacting and role-playing. There is a certain amount of this that goes on (not so much being someone else, as being yourself as you would be if you lived in, say, the Regency, if that's how your dressed); you certainly don't have to do this but if it puts you off when others do you will be uncomfortable. And you probably won't enjoy yourself if you have trouble with the occassional bit of pure silliness, like the Straus Waltz Attack Team, which wear lovely Victorians, all in camo. Hope this helps a bit. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 23:12:23 -0600 From: Ron Romig Subject: Re: Women's Portraits Thanks to those on the list who responded with helpful suggestions to my recent query regarding appropriate women's clothing for 1837 oil portrature. I very much appreciate the expertese represented on the list. Best wishes, Ron ! /\/\ / . . \----------------------|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\ / \ RENE ROMIG |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~/ \== @ ==/ronromig@oz.sunflower.org \-----/-----|--|----------|--/ MEOW / / | | / /| | / / | | / / | | / / | | / / | | / / | | / / | | /_ / |- | / / |- | <_ / <__/ <- / <--/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 21:33:49 -0700 From: claning@igc.apc.org (Chris Laning) Subject: Re: Nuns' clothing Heather -- I'd be glad to help wherever I can. I've never been a nun myself, but have done a good deal of reading over the years and probably know a thing or two. I also know a few nuns, of various types (one is a librarian...), and can refer you to others if there's something I can't answer. Nuns in the 1700s would probably still have been mostly from the older "enclosed" Orders -- who live a life of prayer and contemplation (and housework, and gardening, and....). However, there were beginning around that time a number of "active" communities, who did teaching, nursing, et cetera. They had a very hard struggle at first, since the Council of Trent (1563) passed regulations that more or less forced most communities into the "enclosed" life, and the new communities had to show that they *could* operate outside monastery walls without creating scandals, endangering their virtue, et cetera. (Basically, society had to get to a point where they could believe this was possible.) One of the first "active" communities was the Institute of the Blessed Virgin Mary, founded around 1600 by an English Catholic, Mary Ward. The IBVM sisters run the school where I work, so I've absorbed a bit of their history. (Like many others, they don't wear habits any more.) I find it interesting that there's still a technical distinction under (Catholic) church law between the "enclosed" orders and the "active" ones. Technically, women belonging to the first are *nuns* who belong to *Orders* and live in *monasteries*, and women belonging to the second are *sisters* who belong to *communities* or *institutes* and live in *convents*. Also, their vows are slightly different. The best book I know for understanding enclosed nuns' way of life is _A Right to be Merry_, by Mother Mary Francis, who is a Poor Clare nun (Franciscan contemplative). It's hard to find in libraries, but the last time I ordered a copy it was still only about $5 and I can give you the address. It's more about lifestyle than clothing, though. If you have access to a big-city or university library, look for a book called _Guide to the Catholic Sisterhoods in the U.S._ by Thomas P. McCarthy. The UC Davis library has both the old (1958) and a newer (post-Vatican 2) edition. They are *quite* different!!! If you can get your hands on a copy of the older edition, it will make you quite dizzy with the number of different habits illustrated (these are modern groups, of course, and mostly have modern photos). This book also gives founding dates and sometimes a bit of history of the groups listed (each group wrote their own entry, so they're not all in the same format). As I understand it, there were very few nuns in the U.S. in the 1700s, and they would have likely been in Maryland, which was founded as a Catholic colony. The only reference book I have at hand says that Poor Clares (which the book is about) didn't come to the U.S. until 1877. I *do* know where in the library to look if you'd like more information. Hope this helps -- ____________________________________________________________ O Chris Laning | + Davis, California ____________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 21:46:47 -0800 (PST) From: Kimberly Smay Subject: Re: Bicycle Costume I am looking at two bicycle costumes reprinted from "The Ladies Standard Magazine". It is in "american Dress Pattern Catalogs, 1873-1909" edited by Nancy Villa Bryk, Published by Dover, 1988. ISBN 0-486-25654-5. I bought my copy several years ago so I don't know if it is still in print. There are eight more pages and some articles as well. Kimberly Smay smay@lclark.edu ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 05 Feb 1996 22:20:16 -0800 From: LMetz Subject: Re: Costumecon in Seattle I am just curious about this since I don't know where else to look, but you were speaking of CostumeCon and how it's made up of vintage/historical and fantasy costuming. I was wondering if there are any boards where people also discuss fantasy costuming, for instance...making faerie costumes or something you would see in say, Pern or Lord of the Rings. Like I said, I know this isn't what this forum is about, but if you could please direct me, I won't bring it up again. Lissa ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 Feb 1996 09:51:13 -0500 (EST) From: betsyp@vnet.net Subject: Re: Nuns' clothing Chris Laning wrote, > If you have access to a big-city or university library, look for a book > called _Guide to the Catholic Sisterhoods in the U.S._ by Thomas P. > McCarthy. The UC Davis library has both the old (1958) and a newer > (post-Vatican 2) edition. They are *quite* different!!! If you can get > your hands on a copy of the older edition, it will make you quite dizzy > with the number of different habits illustrated (these are modern groups, > of course, and mostly have modern photos). The older edition is a hoot; my college had a copy, too. This is a great source for pre-Vatican II habits. Almost every order's entry had a history, purpose, and a picture of the habit -- I seem to recall that one or two strict orders had pictures of the habit on a dummy rather than on a person. My immediate crass reaction was that the author of the book assumed the becomingness of a habit would be a major factor in deciding which order a girl chose to join. "Oh, not a Carmelite -- I get the worst bunions!" The old book was very definitely aimed at the would-be postulant. Betsy Perry ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 Feb 1996 9:13:40 -0600 (CST) From: "SHERYL J. NANCE" Subject: Costumecon >What it is? Is it open to the public? When? Where? How can I get more >info? Mark, Sarah has given a pretty good description of what a costumecon is like. I believe that it is in May but I forgot to write down the exact dates. Attached to this message is the membership information to attend. If you have acces to the World Wide Web, their homepage is http://users.aol.com/costumec14/cc14/cc14home.html HTH! Sheryl J. Nance ...one of the secret masters of Kansas City MO Public Library the world: a librarian. They p_sheryl@kcpl.lib.mo.us control information. Don't ever p**s one off. - Spider Robinson, _The Callahan Touch_ (Opinions expressed in this message do not reflect the viewpoint of the Kansas City MO Public Library.) _______________________________________________________________________ CostumeCon 14 MEMBERSHIP INFORMATION You can't buy a ticket to CostumeCon 14! Instead, you must become a "member" of the convention. When you become a member, you will be entitled to attend all events, panels, masquerades, and displays. (Some of the workshops may require sign-up due to limited space, or materials fees). You will also receive all official CC14 publications. If you're not sure you can attend, you can purchase a Supporting Membership, which will entitle you to receive all CC14 publications. You can "upgrade" to an Attending Membership at any time by paying the difference in price. We encourage you to purchase your membership early, and reserve your place at CostumeCon 14! Mailing address: CostumeCon 14 PO Box 1095 Renton, WA 98057-1095 USA Membership Rates -- US Funds (make checks payable to CostumeCon 14) * $65.00 September 5, 1995 through May 1, 1996 * Higher at the door * $25.00 Supporting membership (receive all publications) Contents Copyright © 1995, 1996 by CostumeCon 14 for the contributors. Return to Home Page ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 05 Feb 96 18:26:12 PST From: h-c-isf@outlander.ni.net (Dennis Allen Carr) Subject: Bias weave hose I remember a while back when I asked about the authenticity of tights in rennaisance costume, that bias weave hose was mentioned. What exactly would a bias weave look like? Dennis Allen Carr If beef Top Ramen tastes kinda like beef, KE6ISF What does Oriental TR taste like? outlander!ke6isf@ccss.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 23:18:25 -0800 (PST) From: "Sarah E. Goodman" Subject: Re: Costumecon in Seattle > vintage/historical and fantasy costuming. I was wondering if there > are any boards where people also discuss fantasy costuming, for > instance...making faerie costumes or something you would see in say, > Pern or Lord of the Rings. That (along with a lot of more generalized stuff and some wearable art topics) can be found at f-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com. It's also a majordomo list, so the same subscription pattern works. ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V4 #30 ****************************** A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!