From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V4 #34 Reply-To: h-costume Sender: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Wednesday, February 14 1996 Volume 4, Number 34 Compilation copyright (C) 1995 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: Re: Block printing techniques RE: hand sewing Re: Hose Re: hand sewing Old thread Re: H-Costume Digest V4 #33 Re: sewing slippery fabric batik Re: Old thread Re: batik FW: Sewing sheer silk - Please help me! Re: hand sewing metallic trim? cendal Filling a Berlin Woolwork Pincushion Renaissance clothing Renaissance court info ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 13 Feb 1996 11:53:15 +0000 (GMT) From: Dorothy Stein Subject: Re: Block printing techniques On Mon, 12 Feb 1996, Susan Fatemi wrote: > China?) long before 1400 AD. Another way "blocks" are used to print fabrics > (I always thought of them as just printing the ink/dye directly on the fabric) > is that a *resist* of some kind (paste, mud, etc.) is "printed", and then the > piece is dyed. When the resist is removed, you have a white (or whatever) > design left. this was recently explained to me as being one of the ways > those Indian blocks you sometimes find are used. > Another Indian technique for block printing was to print with the mordant solution, then dip the cloth in the dye, which is 'fugitive', i.e., washes out, while the mordanted design is permanent. Dorothy Stein ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Feb 96 08:45:51 PST From: ches@tristero.io.com Subject: RE: hand sewing On 13 Feb 96 10:37:00 GMT Mrs C S Yeldham wrote: >3. You're not using corduroy for German renaissance, are you? Well, >anyway, for corduroy or velvet, or any other fabric likely to fray (have >you tried du pion silk?) , I use whip stitch on the edges before I start >sewing the seams. It is really too cold for the baby to wear anything less here so I use whatever natural fiber fabric that is flame retardant treatable I can to keep her warm and match what I am wearing. Red is too hard to match with this kind of criteria! Whip stitch is a good idea too. >Caroline >Is it just me or are threads getting weaker? I used to work at Hancock Fabrics and customers were always returning thread that was on sale because it was too weak and breaking, esp. the cone thread for sergers. When I asked my manager he said that The sale stuff is aged thus weaker. So if you buy thread on sale beware....it is old and will break. You may want to write to the manufacture of the thread and complain, they sometimes send you free samples. Now my manager was a kind southern gentleman and always worked with a customer who did not insult him, the store, or the clerks. Not many out there will. He is in Austin, Texas. Ciao @}\ Ches @}----`--,-- http://www.io.com/~ches/ @}/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Feb 1996 13:09:44 -0800 From: Veda Crewe Joseph Subject: Re: Hose David Brewer wrote: > > In message Heather Rose Jones writes: > > On Fri, 9 Feb 1996, Leslie Helms wrote: > > > > > Can anyone comment on the way the seams were joined in medeival bias > > > hose? Lapped, butted, etc.? > > > > The Museum of London book shows a technique with an ordinary seam that is > > then top-stitched on both sides. Presumably the purpose is to create a > > flatter seam (which would certainly affect comfort on the sole of the > > foot) but I find that it has the distinct disadvantage of making it > > difficult to mend if the stressed seam rips out. > > Speaking from a practical, rather than an academic, viewpoint > there is no need to finish off the seams of a pair hosen in this > manner. As they are cut on the bias the cloth doesn't fray (mine > don't anyway). > > Another point arising, for joined hose at least, is that the > cloth is cut on the bias to make it stretch, and if they > stitching used doesn't stretch it will be taking all the stress > a leg can give it... more than enough to break it. I use a back > stitch which does the job, a running stitch is useless. > > -- > David Brewer I have found that with wool, which has a spongy texture anyway, I have gotten away quite satisfactorily with a running stitch. If it is done by hand and not pulled excessively tight, it still has enough stretch. Really the only place where you really need much stretch anyway is where the gussets are. Veda Crewe Joseph - -- ÐÏࡱá ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Feb 1996 12:45:31 -0600 (CST) From: Joe Lichtenstein Subject: Re: hand sewing At 03:02 PM 2/12/96 PST, you wrote: > >My questions: > >What kind of hand stitch do you use when you attach a bodice to a gathered >skirt that will not break when your husband steps on your train? > >I just finished hand stitching a collar onto my cape since I knew there would be no way all those gathers would fit through my machine. I was worried about using a plain running stitch since the fabric was heavy wool and I didn't want it to pull out. So I used a backstitch for security. Lezlie Olde World Drygoods > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Feb 1996 14:49:50 -0500 From: mhamilto@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Marsha Hamilton) Subject: Old thread >>Is it just me or are threads getting weaker? > >..........customers were always returning >thread that was on sale because it was too weak and breaking, esp. the >cone thread for sergers. When I asked my manager he said that The sale >stuff is aged thus weaker. So if you buy thread on sale beware....it >is old and will break. ....... This is interesting because I use thread that is over 35 years old and it doesn't break in my heavy duty machine. Back in the late 50's/early 60's, my Dad bought two large thread display counters from a fabric store that went out of business. We had a dozen spools of every color of the rainbow. Being uninformed back then, we stored the thread in the worst conditions, our uninsulated attic that was 110 degrees in summer. When I left home, we divided the large stock and I continue to use it today. It is mercerized 100% cotton thread and never gives me any trouble. I do buy white and black thread since I ran out of those colors long ago. This "brand new" thread frays and breaks, if I buy the cheap stuff. I think the difference is that new cheap thread is exactly that, cheap. I'm not sure age is the only factor. Marsha J. Hamilton Head, Monograph Acquisition Division.....phone: (614) 292-6314 The Ohio State University Libraries........fax: (614) 292-2015 1858 Neil Avenue Mall...................e-mail: hamilton.8@osu.edu Columbus, OH 43210-1286 USA ................ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Feb 1996 12:48:01 -0800 From: Susan Fatemi Subject: Re: H-Costume Digest V4 #33 If anyone responds to the question about sewing the difficult silk dress, I hope they will send it to the list, as this person would be interested in the solution too. Susan Fatemi susanf@eerc.berkeley.edu ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Feb 1996 16:14:00 -0500 (EST) From: RMITCHELL@washjeff.edu Subject: Re: sewing slippery fabric Well, I ran this one by my wife, who is at this moment sitting in hospital, having suffered great complications from, would you believe, getting a needle stuck in her foot! Our advice on that score: don't do it. Her advice on the sewing question. She would use _fusible interface_: would _first_ cut the interface to shape, apply it to the fabric, _then_ cut the fabric. Hope that moves things forward. Lloyd Mitchell (for Kathleen) rmitchell@washjeff.edu ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Feb 1996 14:32:51 -0600 (CST) From: The Espresso Pegasus! Subject: batik In line with the block printing.. what kind of history does batik have?... When did it start, and how often was it used?.. sources? Thanks! Sarahj Davitt-Style sdavitt@ub.d.umn.edu PS.. if anyone out there does batik.. the best way to get the wax out of the fabric, is to send it off to get drycleaned (by the bulk) and just tell them to save this batch for the last wash of the dry cleaning solution... ...save yourselves the ironing.. :) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Feb 1996 20:19:01 -0500 From: Sanni1@aol.com Subject: Re: Old thread Greetings, I too, use old thread. Just found some that dates from pre-1920 and it is still really strong. My silk floss is all older than 1910, but is useable. Don't get it wet though! Does anyone else feel that using polyester thread for historic costuming is just not quite right? I found a really great source for 100% cotton thread on big spools. Our local been-there-since-1909 leather shop has thread in all colors, and it's a lot cheaper than the flimsy polyester stuff you buy at the fabric store! Try looking for such a store that sells supplies to shoe repair shops. Or, if you want to buy it in bulk, Atlanta Thread and Supply has all sorts of professional sewing thread and notions. (Call directory assistance in Atlanta). Regards, Sanni ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Feb 1996 20:19:30 -0500 From: deirdre@sover.net (Deirdre) Subject: Re: batik At 2:32 PM 2/13/96, The Espresso Pegasus! wrote: >In line with the block printing.. what kind of history does batik have?... >When did it start, and how often was it used?.. sources? Well, it's Indonesian (specifically, from Yogyakarta) for starters. http://www.rad.net.id/ric/indonesia/culture/provinces/yogya.html The West's contact with Indonesia started with the Dutch East India company around 1602, so batik in western culture probably doesn't pre-date that. http://www.prica.org/history.html Just what I found in a few minutes with altavista (http://www.altavista.digital.com/) _Deirdre http://www.sover.net/~deirdre "The two most common things in the universe are hydrogen and stupidity." -- Harlan Ellison ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Feb 1996 17:44:35 -0800 From: Alessaundra Assante Subject: FW: Sewing sheer silk - Please help me! - ---------- From: Alessaundra Assante[SMTP:tristan&isolde@pstbbs.com] Sent: Monday, February 12, 1996 8:02 PM To: 'David Webb & Sheridan Alder' Subject: RE: Sewing sheer silk - Please help me! Importance: High I initially posted this answer to Sheridan privately, but since Susan = Fatemi so graciously asked that any responses be posted to the group, I = will do so . . . ****************************** Sheridan: Saw your post re sheer fabric. I had a similar problem, and will share = my "lifesaving" solution with you (I was also to the "razor-blade" = stage by the time I figured this out !) The miraculous solution is a type of iron-on interfacing called TOUCH OF = GOLD (brand name), available at most fabric stores. It is pretty = expensive for interfacing ($5 to $6 per yard), but since you won't need = much (and you have probably already spent a fortune on the material for = the gown) it is definitely worth it. This interfacing is virtually INVISIBLE once it has been applied. I = used it on a white silk Italian Renaissance chemise, where the silk was = so sheer that it was actually transparent (you could easily read the = print in a book through several layers of this fabric). This fabric was = also difficult to work with because it had a thin stripe of metallic = gold cord woven into it every inch or so (and we all know how sensitive = to heat, fraying, etc. metallic are. . .). I had tried everything I could think of, but the fabric kept stretching = horribly in the bodice area of the chemise where it was being pulled on = the bias by the weight of 15 yards of fabric. I had almost given up, = when I read in a sewing magazine about Touch-of-Gold interfacing. I = didn't think it would work, but at that point it didn't really matter = since the project appeared to be a total loss anyway. To my amazement, it worked beautifully!! Once it was applied (via heat = transfer) it was totally invisible, but added enough strength that the = sheer silk it was applied to did not stretch even one millimeter! The only possible disadvantage to using this product is if you are = trying to recreate a totally period gown that will be entered in a = competition. Under those circumstances they might mark you down for = using a modern product (even though it will not be visible). I recommend that you buy a little extra interfacing and make several = "test fuses" on scraps of fabric to make sure of the correct temperature = setting for your fabric. It needs to be hot enough to create the bond, = but not so hot that it will scorch or mar your main fabric in any way. = I managed to get a complete bond on a relatively low setting (I was = worried about the metallic stripes at high temperatures). I have worn and cleaned this garment dozens of times, and it still looks = as good as new. . .=20 Hope this helps . .=20 Alessaundra Z. Assante ************************************************************************ Some drink at the fountain of knowledge, others just gargle. . . ************************************************************************ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Feb 1996 23:21:57 -0700 From: savaskan@electriciti.com (Julie Adams) Subject: Re: hand sewing Ches wrote: >What kind of hand stitch do you use when you attach a bodice to a gathered >skirt that will not break when your husband steps on your train? I use a stab stitch of the type where the edge of the skirt ends up being perpendicular to the bodice, the same type of stitch as cartridge pleats. >What kind of series of hand stitches do you use to secure the hem so >that it will not break when you step on it too much? German Renaissance hems are usually done using a standard hem stitch. If you blow up Durer prints you will see that most have the lining and outer fabrics folded inward and a running stitch worked all around. But all the skirts are lined and other main finishing techniques I have seen in period portaits often interfaces the whole garment with another lining fabric, then uses facing strips along the edges. >Other than a rolled hem what other hand stitch would work to keep stuff >like say oh baby wale from raveling? Corduroy? It is usually a pretty weak fabric and is really suseptable to crush damage (from things like stepping on trains or sword blows...NEVER make a fighting tabard from Corduroy! Unless its a one event throwaway) You might face it with something much stronger in a strip around the inside of the hemline if you have not lined it. If I were you I would consider adding a decorative band around the bottom out of something sturdier, wool or canvas weight plain weave. The edges of the band would be turned inward, and laid down with running stitches. If you can find Molnlyke thread, I love it. It is really strong, but I heard they were bought out by another company. Bummer. Or you might try real linen thread (from Rev. War suttlers or Laci's) or even just a matching buttonhole thread. julie adams ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Feb 1996 07:43:05 -0600 (CST) From: Joe Lichtenstein Subject: metallic trim? Anyone have a good source for half inch wide gold metallic trim to be used on a mid-18th century officer's coat???????????? And how about brass buttons???????????????? We're so used to making civilian clothing, we aren't up on military sources. Thanks. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Feb 1996 09:35:45 -0500 From: kl94ag@badger.ac.BrockU.CA (Kathleen Leggat) Subject: cendal What is cendal and how would you sew with it? I came upon a reference in a late 1300's text. Kathleen (Catriona) "Hire array me ravysshed, swich richesse saugh I nevere. I hadde wonder what she was and whos wif she were. 'What is this womman,' quod I, 'so worthili atired?'' -William Langland _The Vision of Piers Plowman_ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Feb 96 12:23:54 -0500 From: ejp@watson.ibm.com Subject: Filling a Berlin Woolwork Pincushion I have a piece of Berlin Woolwork -- needlepoint done in wool in that Victorian style -- that's a fine shape to make an overlarge pincusion out of. What would be a suitable material to stuff it with, given that I actually want to stick pins and needles into it, and use it as a pincushion? It's shaped like a box (when stitched together at the edges), so I think a heavier stuffing would be more suitable than a puffy one, but I really have no idea. What did the Victorians stuff their needlepoint pincushions with? Thanks in advance! -- ejp - -------- Elizabeth Poole ejp@watson.ibm.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Feb 1996 11:41:46 -0600 (CST) From: LUGO Subject: Renaissance clothing Hello! I am interested in discovering sources discussing clothing in England around 1520-1536, specifically what the members of court would be wearing (styles, fabrics, fasteners, etc). Thanks in advance! Jeannie Lugo University of Kansas jlugo@falcon.cc.ukans.edu ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Feb 96 15:20:44 est From: Hilary_Oak_at_SLU1@ccmaillink.stlawu.edu Subject: Renaissance court info Hi Jennie and listfolk! There are LOTS of costume history books about the Renaissance era. A few off the top of my head: "The Evolution of Fashion:1066 to 1930" has some nice info on fabrics as well as pattern shapes. "Vecellio's Renaissance Costume Book", published by Dover, has nice woodcut illustrations. "The Tudor Chronicles: The Kings" is a fascinating book about the Tudor dynasty. It's not a costume book per se but it has some wonderful color portraits. Hope that helps for a start. HO! ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V4 #34 ****************************** A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!