From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V4 #46 Reply-To: h-costume Sender: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Wednesday, February 28 1996 Volume 4, Number 46 Compilation copyright (C) 1995 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: Arabian Nights Fabric Finishing Re: Tartan Re: H-Costume Digest V4 #44 Re: H-Costume Digest V4 #45 Re: Tartan Re: Fabric Finishing Re: Tartan Re: H-Costume Digest V4 #44 Re: Tartan -- prehistoric re: Re: Tartan -- prehistoric Antique Egypt Re: H-Costume Digest V4 #44 Costume Book Resource Elizabeth I- Costume book ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 16:28:00 -0500 (EST) From: "Gwyneth H. Crowley" Subject: Arabian Nights Palestinian Costume and Jewelry by Yedida Kalfon Stillman is a great book for researching middle-eastern garb. Photos of surviving clothes, color and black and white, are plentiful while details such as the blow-up of cross stiching are included. Patterns for these stiches are shown. Men's and women's clothng is covered and this includes head dresses (now is that one word or two?) There is an extensive glossary. This book I ordered via Inter-library loan but the book below only exists in microfiche via ILL but you can order a hard copy via UMI. For the more research orientated, her Ph.D. dissertation on this subject is worth buying just for the lists of trousseaus alone! Gwyneth Crowley, M.L.S. Librarians are the secret masters of the universe! :) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 18:14:44 -0500 From: aquazoo@dcez.com (Ed Safford & Carol Kocian) Subject: Fabric Finishing There is a good book called _The Final Steps_ by Beverly Gordon. "Traditional Methods and Contemporary Applications for Finishing Cloth by Hand." ISBN #0-934026-07-6, Library of Congress #82-81232. It's a softcover, 36 page book available form Interweave Press, Inc., 306 North Washington Avenue, Loveland, CO 80537 or at a weaving supply store near you. Cost is about $5.00. Traditionally, after the fulling the nap of the fabric was raised by brushing. Then it was trimmed to a uniform height. In some cases, the nap was raised & trimmed as many as three times. Trimming sounds like a tedious and precise operation. On page 29, Gordon says: "Cropping or shearing is probably the most difficult procedure for handweavers or other clothmakers to carry out at home. The traditional hand shears is, to my knowledge, no longer available anywhere. Most scissors are too small to be helpful, and awkward to use horizontally. I have thought of two possible pieces of equipment that might be used for shearing (though I have not tried either of them): an electric razor or barber neck clippers that work on the principle of the lawn mower (Norelco razors work this way), and a sanding machine. It would be imperative to make sure the cloth was completely dry with either of these machines, for if moisture and electrical equipment are combined, electric shock can result. If the technical problems of working with this type of device can be worked out, interesting possibilities present themselves. Shearing can be done in selected areas, for example, to create high and low areas and a sculptured effect." My thought was to use an electric razor with a spacer of some sort. Some years ago, a razor called the "Miami Device" was available. It left stubble like that popularized by actor Don Johnson on the show Miami Vice. It would probably be ideal for shearing fabric; I must confess that I did not try this myself. I recently finished some handwoven fabric for use in first century Roman cloaks. After fulling (stomping on it in a bathtub full of water, there was far too much for the washing machine), I hung it out to dry and then completed drying it in the dryer. I brushed the nap up with a wire dog brush, dry. I then sprayed it with water and brushed the nap flat with a nylon bristle hairbrush, then threw it in the dryer again. I may have had an easier time if I raised the nap with the hairbrush instead of the dog brush. The result is somewhat coarse, because the yarn was heavy in the first place. Coat wool, available in most fabric stores, has the smooth, brushed finish most of us are after. It does not fray when cut. I would suggest finding coat wool if you don't want to full woolens yourself! -Carol Kocian *^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^* This account is shared by Carol Kocian and Ed Safford. Carol can also be e-mailed at ckocian@epe.org Ed can be reached at ecsaffor@ingr.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 17:49:23 -0800 From: gwjchris@ix.netcom.com (Bill and Glenna Christen ) Subject: Re: Tartan You wrote: >>From all I have been able to learn, the modern tartans were not associated >with specific clans until much, much later than the 1500's. Specific clan tartans were established during the 19th Century after Scots were allowed to wear tartans again. The looms that were hidden away after Culloden and its aftermath were pulled out and the patterns that were on them evolved into the clan tartans we know today. The Victorian fashions that the Queen helped popularize by her fondness for Scotland and all things Scottish lead to the codification of the tartans by clan. Someone with more specific knowledge than I have will be able to give better specifics than I can. Glenna Jo Christen LHS, LSFS, MSAS & HSP gwjchris@ix.netcom.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 22:08:25 -0500 (EST) From: GINA@delphi.com Subject: Re: H-Costume Digest V4 #44 Milady Alison, "AOTTD" is also one of my favorite movies...though much as I loved R. Burton...he was, perhaps, no the very best choice to play Henry. I own a copy of this movie, and so am fairly familiar with the costuming. In answer to your question; Yes, the costuming is fairly good period recreation...escpecially for the time in which it was done...1969. Not many other movies of that period did as good a job or research. For the most part, I thought the fabric choices to be pretty good. It appears to me that many of Anne's gowns are silk, which of course is quite period, but some of the brocades are not exceptional choices, in that the patterning seems to be in some cases, more Victorian than Tudor. As regards the French Hood. This particular headdress really is nothing more than a crescent band, sloping back from the face. The angle of slope varied with styles and with the time, but Anne's are appropriate to the historical model. French Hoods were worn without veils by young women and especially unmarried women. Older women (and this could be construed to mean anything from say 16 and up, considering that daughters were married off very early) normally wore the hood with a square or semi-circular veil attached to inside curve of the crescent, and covering the hair. This style of headdress was brough to England BY Anne Boleyn after her sojourn at the French court which was THE fashion center of Europe at the time, and the English court was the center of fashion in England, so that the noble ladies naturally followed Anne's lead. Also, the French Hood is a very flattering style for almost any face. About the "awkward hang of the sleeves", I think you will find tht this is quite typical of Early Tudor style gowns. The large bulky over- sleeve does not "flow" because it is generally made of stiff fabrics and heavy ornamentation. It is worth bearing in mind, that court people of this period did not move in as animated a way as modern people do. 1) it would not have been easy in a stiff corset and heavy gowns, and 2) is would have considered inelegant. Nobles ladies took small steps and held their hands in front of them in a modest pose. This is reflected in the dance sequences in the film...the dancing being rather stiff, but graceful and smooth. Having made and having worn Tudor gowns, I can assure you that your movements are not the same as in modern dress. The gowns are heavy and confining, and do cause one to move in a "more period fashion". BTW. If you have never seen it...which I can not imagine...but in case you are looking for really EXQUISITE and EXCEPTIONAL period gowns of a later Tudor period...check out Elizabeth R with Glenda Jackson, circ 1973. The costume actually "recreated" some of Elizabeth I's gowns, and they are wonderful to look at!!! Best wishes, Jocasta Chamberlayne of Charnwood Forest ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 22:15:48 -0500 (EST) From: GINA@delphi.com Subject: Re: H-Costume Digest V4 #45 Kevin, I would be interested in the posts you have concerning period fulling of wool. Please e-mail to me at; gina@delphi.com. I would appreciate it. Thanks, Jocasta ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 00:33:29 -0600 (CST) From: The Espresso Pegasus! Subject: Re: Tartan Reguarding the pleating of the long piece of fabric to pull together a kilt..are the pleatsdefined and carefully set?-- or are they more along the lines of glorified gathers? the former doesn't seem practical.. but then.. they are scottish. Fifty percent Scottish, Sarahj :) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 07:50:29 -0600 (CST) From: "Maria A. Sanders" Subject: Re: Fabric Finishing I must admit that I have never tried fulling my own wool, I'm always terrified that it will shrink beyond belief. How do you prevent this from happening? Or is coat weight wool woven tightly enough that it won't shrink? What about bottom weight wool? Maria \\\|/// (O O) - -----------------------------oooO---U---Oooo---------------------------------- MARIA SANDERS LIBRARY ACQUISITIONS EMAIL: MARIAS@COMP PHONE: (501) 575-4657 OR FAX: (501) 575-6656 MARIAS@SATURN \\\|/// (O O) U O .........thanks.... - ----------------------------oooO-------Oooo----------------------------------- On Tue, 27 Feb 1996, Ed Safford & Carol Kocian wrote: > There is a good book called _The Final Steps_ by Beverly Gordon. > "Traditional Methods and Contemporary Applications for Finishing Cloth by > Hand." ISBN #0-934026-07-6, Library of Congress #82-81232. It's a > softcover, 36 page book available form Interweave Press, Inc., 306 North > Washington Avenue, Loveland, CO 80537 or at a weaving supply store near > you. Cost is about $5.00. > > Traditionally, after the fulling the nap of the fabric was raised > by brushing. Then it was trimmed to a uniform height. In some cases, the > nap was raised & trimmed as many as three times. Trimming sounds like a > tedious and precise operation. On page 29, Gordon says: > "Cropping or shearing is probably the most difficult procedure for > handweavers or other clothmakers to carry out at home. The traditional hand > shears is, to my knowledge, no longer available anywhere. Most scissors are > too small to be helpful, and awkward to use horizontally. I have thought of > two possible pieces of equipment that might be used for shearing (though I > have not tried either of them): an electric razor or barber neck clippers > that work on the principle of the lawn mower (Norelco razors work this > way), and a sanding machine. It would be imperative to make sure the cloth > was completely dry with either of these machines, for if moisture and > electrical equipment are combined, electric shock can result. If the > technical problems of working with this type of device can be worked out, > interesting possibilities present themselves. Shearing can be done in > selected areas, for example, to create high and low areas and a sculptured > effect." > > My thought was to use an electric razor with a spacer of some sort. > Some years ago, a razor called the "Miami Device" was available. It left > stubble like that popularized by actor Don Johnson on the show Miami Vice. > It would probably be ideal for shearing fabric; I must confess that I did > not try this myself. > > I recently finished some handwoven fabric for use in first century > Roman cloaks. After fulling (stomping on it in a bathtub full of water, > there was far too much for the washing machine), I hung it out to dry and > then completed drying it in the dryer. I brushed the nap up with a wire dog > brush, dry. I then sprayed it with water and brushed the nap flat with a > nylon bristle hairbrush, then threw it in the dryer again. I may have had > an easier time if I raised the nap with the hairbrush instead of the dog > brush. The result is somewhat coarse, because the yarn was heavy in the > first place. > > Coat wool, available in most fabric stores, has the smooth, brushed > finish most of us are after. It does not fray when cut. I would suggest > finding coat wool if you don't want to full woolens yourself! > > -Carol Kocian > > *^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^* > This account is shared by Carol Kocian and Ed Safford. Carol can also be > e-mailed at ckocian@epe.org Ed can be reached at ecsaffor@ingr.com > > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 07:50:32 CDT From: "Cindy Abel" Subject: Re: Tartan On the tartan issue, I recall seeing at least two portraits--one of a youngesh English Scots aristocrat in the chemise dress of the 1790's wearing a hat with tartan decoration and matching scarf about her shoulders. Another was of George IV shortly before or after he became King in 1820 in Highland dress. The fad for Scottish tartans may have really started with the popularity of the novels of Sir Walter Scott, many which had settings in Scottish and English history. Fashion plates of the 1820's I've seen show more than a few dresses and accessories of tartan cloth. Sometimes the clan name of the tartan gets credit in these plates, sometimes not. Cindy Abel Health Sciences Library Creighton University 2500 California Plaza Omaha NE 68178-0400 Phone: 402-280-5144 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 08:02:57 CDT From: "Cindy Abel" Subject: Re: H-Costume Digest V4 #44 Additional note on the French Hood in AOTTD. Actually there is some arguement as to who brought the French Hood into fashion in England: Anne Boleyn or Henry VIII's younger sister, Mary Rose. She married the elderly French king, was widowed within three months, and then married her first choice, Henry's friend, Charles Brandon. There is a joint portrait of Mary and Charles with Mary in a French Hood that pre-dates Anne's return to England from the French court by at least a year or two. And then there is the possibility that the Field of the Cloth of Gold may have been the event where the female English visitors seeing their French counterparts in the flattering hoods, may have started to wear the French Hood. Anne may have popularized the fashion, as it was daring to show so much hair--as she had long beautiful black hair--the hood was a flaunt it if you got it sort of fashion. Cindy Abel Health Sciences Library Creighton University 2500 California Plaza Omaha NE 68178-0400 Phone: 402-280-5144 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 10:20:06 -0500 From: mhamilto@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Marsha Hamilton) Subject: Re: Tartan -- prehistoric Even though I have a "Hamilton" tartan scarf, deep in my heart I know the tradition is at best two hundred years old. Old paintings show individuals in a plethora of tartans all mixed together. An interesting citation to the extreme age of tartan (checked woven cloth) can be found in: Barber, Elizabeth Wayland. Women's Work-the first 20,000 years: women, cloth, and society in early times. New York: Norton, 1994. A paperback version about $13.00 is available from the Edward Hamilton Bookseller catalog. There is a b&w picture of an original piece of tartan which was reproduced to a full size piece of cloth (original and repro side by side, its fascinating). The piece is several thousand years old and was found in a dig or bog in Germany or Austria in an area occupied by ancestors of the Celts. (Don't hold me to the details, the book is at home). What is equally entralling is a fur cap that looks exactly like a tam. So maybe the tam and tartan are older than we think? I highly recommend this book. Although IMHO the author makes a few leaps of logic, it is a thoroughly researched and detailed study of ancient spinning, weaving, string making, and clothmaking. It traces linguistic clues as well as describing archeological evidence. And its a fast read. >It is certainly possible that tartan >cloth (ie a large check pattern) existed at the time - there are references >to the Irish wearing "checked cloth" from way before the 1300s. However, >there is no evidence for the wearing of the kilt from before 1500 > >John F.Scott Networked Information Services Advisor >j.f.scott@bton.ac.uk University of Brighton, England Marsha J. Hamilton Head, Monograph Acquisition Division.....phone: (614) 292-6314 The Ohio State University Libraries........fax: (614) 292-2015 1858 Neil Avenue Mall...................e-mail: hamilton.8@osu.edu Columbus, OH 43210-1286 USA ................ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Feb 96 08:49:27 MST From: mgriggs@shepards.com Subject: re: Re: Tartan -- prehistoric mhamilto%magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu@internet.shepards.com (Marsh Wrote: | | Barber, Elizabeth Wayland. | Women's Work-the first 20,000 years: | women, cloth, and society | in early times. New York: Norton, 1994. Could you send me the ISBN for this one? It sounds like a good book for the reference shelves. Thanks! Lyssa __________________________________________ Lady Leofsige O Caoimh mgriggs@shepards.com __________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 09:59:48 -0600 From: "Silvestre Garcia" Subject: Antique Egypt We are still in search of patterns, clothing, accessories and materials from the Antique Egypt ( Middle and New Empires) . I need help. Thanks. Yolis ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 10:48:47 -0700 (MST) From: Piano Barbara Subject: Re: H-Costume Digest V4 #44 > Milady Alison, > "AOTTD" is also one of my favorite movies...though much as I loved Please don't use initials - what IS AOTTD? Thanks ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Feb 96 11:06:20 PST From: Eleanor Farrell Subject: Costume Book Resource I don't recall seeing this source mentioned before on h-costume, so... Public Work is a mail order company based in San Francisco, specializing in books for the fashion, film and art industries. I've just received their most recent "Fashion Resources" catalog, which lists hundreds of books on historic costume, accessories, textiles, design, crafts, etc. The company will also do book searches. Public Work 350 Bay Street, Ste. 100-170 San Francisco, CA 94133 415/399-0398 (new telephone number) FAX: 415/772-9023 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 14:43:43 -0500 From: Ladnier@aol.com Subject: Elizabeth I- Costume book I still have not located the following: I am working on a research paper on Queen Elizabeth I. My instructor said, "Her wardrobe was kept at a separate location than the palace. Daily, she would send her servants to the "Wardrobe of Robes" VIA BOAT up the Thames River. This mode of transportation was used for it was the quickest method." My instructor cannot remember which book she read this in. My instructor and I have reread "Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd" and cannot locate this event. Wardrobed Unlock'd does mention the wardrobe being transported by 300 carts. This is footnoted on an ibid, author Rey. For unknown reasons, Rey is ibid - ed all the way through the book back to Chapter one. No true footnote exists on him. My instructor said to try Janet Arnold's Book III. I can not locate this book. Does anyone have this book and can check this event out? I really would appreicate it. If its out there I'll find it!!! $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ Pennies from Heaven, where it’s always reigning money Penny E. Ladnier, Virginia Commonwealth University s0peladn@cabell.vcu.edu $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V4 #46 ****************************** A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!