From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V4 #51 Reply-To: h-costume Sender: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Tuesday, March 5 1996 Volume 4, Number 51 Compilation copyright (C) 1996 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: Re: E-mail misunderstandings Re:Mrs. Land Needs a new dress. Re: Studying historic costume Re: Korean Hat Theatrical costume linen garments Amateur vs. Professional UK linen source? Re: UK linen source? Re: Amateur vs. Professional Videos Re: Knights Templar Uniform Re: Videos Knights Templar Uniform description Knights Templar or... ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 3 Mar 1996 21:30:15 -0800 (PST) From: close (Diane Barlow Close) Subject: Re: E-mail misunderstandings L. R. Peters wrote: > Although some folks might be inclined to view these communications as a > "amateur" effort, the postings in effect, become available for all and > everyone to read...and re-use. So, if you write it, the letter or e-mail > becomes the property of the person(s) to whom it is addressed. It may be > quoted or re-used whether you like it or not. This is not true. Posting to this list is not the same as posting to a newsgroup -- newsgroups are public and this list is semi-private. When you sign up to this list you get a notice that says: "Please respect all copyright laws when using this list. Practically speaking, that means you should post references or explain how to get instructions, rather than copying those instructions from some other publication or post (without permission of that author). It's this list's policy that individual articles submitted to this list are the property of the author of the post. Do not repost articles from this list in _any_ forum without the original author's consent." L. R. Peters, or anyone else who cannot abide by the above should not be subscribed to this list. If you can't obey list rules, and that includes rules about reposting articles from this list, then please unsubscribe yourself: To unsubscribe from the list, send a message to: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com In that message, say one of the following as the body of the message: unsubscribe h-costume end (if you are signed up to the direct mail version) or unsubscribe h-costume-digest end (if you are signed up to the digest version.) - -- Diane Close I'm at lunch all day. :-) If a Canadian Had Said It First (The Globe & Mail): "The price of freedom is eternal vigilance plus GST." ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 21:50:35 -0500 From: TWOSEW@aol.com Subject: Re:Mrs. Land Needs a new dress. A Fashion Emergency! Mrs. Lands old gown just will not do. The Francis Land House of Va. Beach, Va. is seeking experienced hand sewers to come Sat. April 13, 1996, 10:30 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. and help. The cloth has arrived, a little late, due to bad weather and muddy roads, and the social event of the year is not far off. Mrs. land is beside herself. You will be sewing with our experienced seamstresses, surrounded by the 18th - century ambiance of the House.Take4 part in this wonderful opportunity to learn 18th c. sewing techniques. This receiving qown is sure to be talked about for many months for its style and fine stitchery. Bring a thimble - needle, scissors....high tea will be served. Call 804 - 431-4000 to reserve your 2 hour sewing time slot by Sat. March 30th. ( 6 sewers will be taken for each time) This is a labor of sewing love and not for financial gain. We also think it will be fun. Thank you for your kindness in helping us let others know about this up coming event. Your most humble servent, Nancy Marx - seamstress e-mail me if you need any other information. twosew@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 3 Mar 1996 22:35:19 -0800 (PST) From: "erin k. gault" Subject: Re: Studying historic costume I have found many programs (well not a lot but quite a few) for theatrical costuming and general costume design, but I would like to study costuming for film. I do not like costuming for theatre and really have no interest in doing it as a career. Does anybody know of any schools that teach more towards film? Thanks a lot! ***************************************************************** * Erin K. Gault Evergreen State College * * Eglentyne de Gaulle College of Witt's Haven * * Barony of Glymm Mere, Kingdom of An Tir * * e-mail: gaulte@elwha.evergreen.edu * ***************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 08:19:27 -0500 From: KenDawe@aol.com Subject: Re: Korean Hat >Date: Mon, 19 Feb 1996 13:50:51 +1100 >From: "Gillian Richards (02) 716 3712" >Subject: Lace, Hair and The old Accuracy Hassles >Greetings, good gentle folk, >Hair - some years ago I saw a tall hat in an antique shop that >looked like one of those traditional Welsh ladies' hats, only it >was made of what looked like netting. I was informed that it was a >Korean Scholar's hat, from about 1890, and that it was made from >plaited and woven hair. I cannot remember now whether that was >human or horse hair, but it was certainly black enough to be long >Asian hair. I wish I had touched it! The "Kat' " (rhymes with "not") is traditionally made from horse hair. BTW, there is an exhbition of Korean textiles (clothing and wrapping cloths) making the rounds these days called "A Profusion of Color". The Korean title is "The Colors of Korea." We saw part II at the Seattle Asian Art Museum, and it is definitely a must! How they can wear such clashing colors and not go blind I'll never understand... Ken Dawe kendawe@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 04 Mar 1996 08:44:41 -0500 From: Gale Storm Latzko Subject: Theatrical costume If anyone's interested in what theatrical costumers do and how much work it takes to costume a theatrical production, the latest issue of Fiberarts (March/April, I think) has a very interesting article that will let you know about every step of the process, from design to fabric buying to sewing to final fitting. (I'm not affiliated with the magazine in any way. I'm just a satisfied reader...) Cheers! Gale ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 04 Mar 96 08:30 CST From: ROBERT@UIAMVS.WEEG.UIOWA.EDU Subject: linen garments I hope the following citations will help in your search for linen garments. Evidence for them will probably be difficult in northern Europe because they rarely survive archaeologically (plant fibers do not last well in peat bogs and other moist areas). Gervers, Veronika. "Medieval Garments in the Mediterranean World." _Cloth and Clothing in Medieval Europe: Essays in Memory of Professor E.M. Carus-Wilson_. Ed. N.B. Narte and K.G. Ponting. Pasold Studies in Textile History 2. London: Henemann Educational Books, 1983. 279-315. ISBN 0-435-32382-2 Hald, Margrethe. "Ancient Textile Techniques in Egypt and Scandinavia: A Comparative Study". _Acta Archaeologica_ 17 (1946): 49-98. ****************************** Wendy Robertson Serials Cataloging University of Iowa (319) 335-5894 wendy-robertson@uiowa.edu ****************************** ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 10:49:41 -0500 From: mhamilto@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Marsha Hamilton) Subject: Amateur vs. Professional >......To call this list an "amateur" one is condescending to several very >well-read and very well-informed people out there. Yes there are some who >are novices, and by no stretch of the imagination could be called >professionals, I feel it is better to over-estimate the background and >abilities of the collective audience than to fall into the trap of "talking >downwards." ............. This is an interesting conversation which hinges on connotations of the word "amateur". Webster's Dictionary says "Amateur" comes from the French "amator" or lover. It defines AMATEUR as: "1) Devotee, admirer. 2) One who engages in a pursuit, study, science, or sport as a pastime rather than a profession." By this definition, most of us are amateurs or lovers of costuming who pursue the study and science as a pastime. Although many of us have dabbled in costume-related activities for money, the majority of us do not have it as our sole source of income. Hence, we are amateurs. Only by the third definition does a negative connotation arise. "3) one lacking in experience and competence in an art or science." However, the first definition in a dictionary is the most common and preferred usage. I once had a conversation with an eminent Middle Eastern historian who said she believed the transmission of historical traditions and the tradition of historic inquiry would, in the long run, be followed in the work of gifted amateurs. People enamored of a subject not restrained by the restrictions of academia. One example is the study of the American Civil War. There is a huge number of gifted amateurs researching and writing on the subject who are not professional historians (i.e. PhD's teaching history in a university or curating a historic site.) We too may fit into this wonderful tradition of gifted amateurs. Sharing knowledge, improving our technical and research skills, learning about sites to visit, books to read, publishing "research in progress" on the list. Amateur does not necessarily mean "talking down" nor do I think that has taken place on this list. I prefer to think of this worthy group in the tradition of the 18th century amateurs (like Thomas Jefferson) or the "Renaissance man" who was eager for knowledge in a variety of fields. I like that thought a lot. Marsha J. Hamilton Head, Monograph Acquisition Division.....phone: (614) 292-6314 The Ohio State University Libraries........fax: (614) 292-2015 1858 Neil Avenue Mall...................e-mail: hamilton.8@osu.edu Columbus, OH 43210-1286 USA ................ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 01:39:52 GMT From: db-cos@westmore.demon.co.uk (David Brewer) Subject: UK linen source? I'm hoping that someone can direct me to a UK source for a good solid weighty linen cloth for a variety of uses... covering padded body armour being the most pressing (thus a good thickness required). Minimal enquiries so far have only turned up an offer of cloth in rolls of over 200 metres length, outside my seriously low budget by a sizable margin (an order of magnitude). Anybody have a good source or other advice? Communication greatfully received, David. - -- David Brewer ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 08:53:39 +0000 (GMT) From: "J.F.Scott" Subject: Re: UK linen source? On Tue, 5 Mar 1996, David Brewer wrote: > > > I'm hoping that someone can direct me to a UK source for a good > solid weighty linen cloth for a variety of uses... covering > padded body armour being the most pressing (thus a good > thickness required). Herts Fabrics at 11, Brickfield, Hatfield, Herts, AL10 8TN (01707-265815); ... "Suppliers of Cloth to the Re-Enactment world - Specialists in Exclusive Linen Fabrics - Mail Order and Personal Delivery Service." ... This supplier sells beautiful plain and textured linen cloth VERY cheaply (approx #5 a yard for 60" wide fabric), and if you ring up they will send you samples. Subject: Re: Amateur vs. Professional When I read "amateur" in the posting I read it in the context of sharing knowledge for the joy of it, and not for monetary reward or personal advancement. So let's keep asking those costume questions and share what we know! Cindy Abel Health Sciences Library Creighton University 2500 California Plaza Omaha NE 68178-0400 Phone: 402-280-5144 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 11:02:13 -0600 (CST) From: "Maria A. Sanders" Subject: Videos This is somewhat dated, and our server went down over the weekend so if it's duplicate message, please forgive me. I just received that Signals Catalogue (a funky gift type of thing). But it has several of the of the videos to movies that have been passed around the list of late. I'll provide as much info as I can at this point (I'm at work), and if you have any more question please email me privately. Signals: 1-800-669-9696, accepts visa, mc, amex, and discover. Or by snail mail : Signals, PO BOX 64428, St. Paul, MN 55164-0428. Videos The Memoirs of Sherlock Holmes (Jeremy Brett & Edward Hardwicke). 19.98 each, or set of 6 for $119.00 Three Gables*Dying Detectives*Golden Pince Nez*Red Cricle*Mazarine Stone*Cardboard Box Travels with my Aunt (Maffie Smith, Alec McCowen, Lou Gosset)..$19.99 (I have never seen this so I have no idea what the costumes are like, but it sounds alot like Mame). Brother Cadfael Videos Series II...$59.95(3 cassettes set), Series 1....79.95 (4 cassettes) Pride & Prejudice Videos...6 cassette set...(A&E)....$99.95 Immortal Beloved..$19.98 Elizabeth R (Glenda Jackson)..6 cassette set....$149.98 Chrlemagne (Christian Brendel and Anna Duprey) 5 cassette set....$89.95 Middlemarch (Juliet Aubrey) 3 cassette set....$59.98 Upstairs Downstairs...7 cassettes...$149.95 The Far Pavilions (Ben Cross, Amy Irving...set in 19th Century India) 5 cassette set....$89.95. I have not seen this either so I don't know if it's any good. The Buccaneers (Masterpiece Theater)...3 cassettes...$59.95. Anyway, I know we're not suppose to advertise, but this isn't my company and since some were inquiring if tapes were available, I thought that I would pass this along. Thanks Maria marias@comp.uark.edu ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 05 Mar 96 13:02:41 est From: Hilary_Oak_at_SLU1@ccmaillink.stlawu.edu Subject: Re: Knights Templar Uniform Cherry Emerson mentioned having a Knights Templar uniform. I am very curious about what this looks like. Perhaps other folks on the list would be interested too. Cherry, Would you mind regaling us with some juicy details about this garment? Depending on the cost, I might be interested in adding it to our costume collection. If others on this list know things about the various Freemason uniforms/costumes, perhaps you could share them with us. It is an area of costuming that does seem to get much press and might make for an fascinating thread. Thanks, - Hilary ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 16:50:54 -0500 From: Booboopies@aol.com Subject: Re: Videos I believe Signals or Wireless also carries the Poldark series. Karen ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 05 Mar 96 18:31:27 est From: Hilary_Oak_at_SLU1@ccmaillink.stlawu.edu Subject: Knights Templar Uniform description Cherry Emerson was kind enough to oblige with this description which I am forwarding to you for your reading pleasure and edification: The Knights Templar uniform was obviously for the rank and file, it was not a fancy one. It basically was very VERY good wool, navy blue, almost black. Very fitted in the jacket, almost "military school" or "Admiral Nelson" like. Jacket had the little stand up collar, similar to Air Force Academy or West Point. ONly decoration on the jacket was a white cross embrodried on the left breast. It was a Maltese Cross. The jacket was fitted at waist (they all have them custom made I found out) and about 5-7" below the waist (guessing). The pants were basically fitted straight leg with no decoration whatsoever. The Hat was what I would call a "Admiral Nelson" hat complete with white ostrage (the bird, sic) feathers running in the crease from front to back. It was a "two pointed" hat. The sword holster was red and gold striped, about one inch in width going around the waist, with loop for sword, and had a "suspender" (is that the right word} that crossed from left at the waist over the right shoulder and hooked on the waist band in the back. They are rather secretive about their ritualistic garb. I may be able to find some pictures of the group if I do I will post it to your list and offer copies for costumers. For a scathing account of the Knights Templars, read "Holy Blood, Holy Grail" There are two masonic orders, the Scottish Rites and the Knights Templars. There are a lot of Scottish Rites but not a lot of Knights Templars, the KT's are more mystical in their rituals I have been told and trace their linage back to the Crusades and the French/Maltese Knights who went on the Crusades. For really interesting ritualistic garb, no one can beat the "ODD FELLOWS LODGE" I saw a complete set go through the auction once and it is very ornate and interesting. I go to auctions a lot and will keep my eyes open for such costumes. I actually didn't know there was an interest. I did contact the local temple and was told it was custom for the family to return the uniform, but there is little use for them as everyone has theirs custom made so I decided to offer it for sale to historic costumers who would appreciate it. It has been sold. Sold within 15 minutes of hitting the vintage list where it was also posted. I was still online after posting to historic costume list! Didn't realize there was so much interest. Cherry Emerson 2939 Eagle Way Boulder, CO 80301 (303) 443-1139 voice (303) 440-5068 fax ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 16:12:05 -0800 (PST) From: Elizabeth Fox Subject: Knights Templar or... I think what is being referred to as a "Knights Templar costume" is actually a Knights of Columbus costume. The ones I've seen consist of a black frock coat (quite nice). There are dull red cross shaped patches on the sleeves, usually. There is a hat that goes along with this - that kind of hat shape one associates with Napoleon (I don't know what it's called). It has the cross patches too. I mean embroidered patches, not the mending kind. Elizabeth Fox ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V4 #51 ****************************** A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!