From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V4 #71 Reply-To: h-costume Sender: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Friday, March 15 1996 Volume 4, Number 71 Compilation copyright (C) 1996 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: Mini Ice Ages University of Washington/Patterns Re: University of Washington/Patterns Re: Question on Rayon Rayon, silk, and linen Re: Question on Rayon RE: 17th Century Fencing Doublets/Janet Arnold Books Re: Janet Arnold Books Re: Janet Arnold Books Re: bloomers Re: Living History Groups Re: H-Costume Digest V4 #70 Re: H-Costume Digest V4 #52 re. Margaret Scott and other sources Re.Margaret Scott and other sources Re: Living History Groups Costume Resources Braid Winners Catalogue RE: Braid Winners Catalogue ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 06:29:57 -0800 From: Mike Percvial Subject: Mini Ice Ages Briefly to try to wrap this up without being accused of being off-topic. Glaciers are dynamic systems which exist in delicate equilibrium, so a change of only a few tenths of a degree in average temperature (or a change in average precipitation) can have a dramatic effect on their advance or retreat, without necessarily producing discernible changes in other ways. On the other hand, there is clear evidence for significant climate change in historical time (Iceland and Greenland are so called because that was how they seemed to the Noresemen who discovered them, although now Greenland is icy and Iceland is not (much)). And I think it is generally agreed that the freezing of the Thames in London was a combination of the factors Caroline mentioned (especially the flow constriction due to the many arches of the old London Bridge), plus a slightly lower average temperature. Unfortunately my geology texts all give up at 11,000 years before present, so I cannot give any further details. - -- Mike Percvial Turnpike evaluation. For Turnpike information, mailto:info@turnpike.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 9:24:57 -0600 (CST) From: "SHERYL J. NANCE" Subject: University of Washington/Patterns While looking through one of my library's databases, I came across listings at the University of Washington for a great number of historical clothing patterns from Past Patterns & other companies. Is anyone on this list in that area? Does anyone know if they loan them out or are they reference items? Thanks. Sheryl J. Nance ...one of the secret masters of Kansas City MO Public Library the world: a librarian. They p_sheryl@kcpl.lib.mo.us control information. Don't ever p**s one off. - Spider Robinson, _The Callahan Touch_ (Opinions expressed in this message do not reflect the viewpoint of the Kansas City MO Public Library.) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 07:55:36 -0800 (PST) From: Margaret Griffith Subject: Re: University of Washington/Patterns Unfortunately, they are reference materials and cannot be taken out of the library. Also unfortunately, there is no good place in the library to lay them out and trace them - I've done it in the hall outside of the library, but it was a pain. Meg Griffith On Thu, 14 Mar 1996, SHERYL J. NANCE wrote: > While looking through one of my library's databases, I came across listings > at the University of Washington for a great number of historical clothing > patterns from Past Patterns & other companies. Is anyone on this list in > that area? Does anyone know if they loan them out or are they reference > items? ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 9:58:50 -0600 (CST) From: Deb Subject: Re: Question on Rayon A rayon skirt I have came with a tag which claimed that rayon was invented for and shown off at Queen Victoria's big exhibition (sorry ... not my period ... can't remember the name) sometime around 1850's ... the exhibition with the glass house, wasn't it? Before her husband died. The exhibition was his project, I think. Victoriennes - help me out here. deb baddorf@fnal.gov ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 11:31:44 -0500 (EST) From: Annikki Weston Subject: Rayon, silk, and linen Well, looks like I -was- out of my mind when I thought I had seen 'rayon' in Arnold's book. Nuts. Oh well. :/ Thank you for clearing that matter up, though! Unfortunately, the cheap silk and linen was from a local store in Michigan, at a reduction price until this Saturday. One of those 'oh-my-god-today-is-my-lucky-day' sort of aquisitions. Nikki weston@tardis.svsu.edu ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 12:13:54 -0800 (PST) From: Irene Joshi Subject: Re: Question on Rayon According to Grolier's encyclopedia, fibres from cellulose were first produced in 1855. (As early as the 1660's it was speculated that it would be possible to produce a type of silk from plant cells, after all that's was silk worms do. Rayon was first successfully produced commercially in 1884 by the French inventor Hilaire de Chardonnet. He called the fibre artificial silk, or art silk as it was cleverly know in the early part of this century. In 1924, producers agreed to call the fiber rayon. I have a vague memory of reading that rayon was first actually produced in France (probably as a lab experiment) in the latter part of the 18th century. Unfortunately I cannot track down the reference. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 12:35:17 -0800 From: Cheryl Melnick Subject: RE: 17th Century Fencing Doublets/Janet Arnold Books > >Here is a list of all of the Janet Arnold books that I know of: > > > >"Two Early Seventeenth Century Fencing Doublets" > I believe that this one is a chapter in a book. Only the chapter was written by Arnold. The citation that I have is a little confusing. I have this item in my collection. It is a reprinted small booklet, not a book. I have no idea if it was once a book. It is very hard to find, and took me about 8 years before I found it by chance. If you are want to look at this to create a reproduction fencing doublet, I believe the same information can be found by simply looking at other sources without the detailed analysis. Cheryl ********************************************************* Cheryl Melnick Sessionware, Inc General Manager Phone:408-559-7799 cheryl@sessionware.com http://www.sessionware.com > > > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 16:37:46 -0500 From: Carodec@aol.com Subject: Re: Janet Arnold Books Sheryl Nance wrote: > >"Two Early Seventeenth Century Fencing Doublets" > I believe that this one is a chapter in a book. Only the chapter was > written by Arnold. The citation that I have is a little confusing. > If anyone has further information on this book, or on other descriptions of fencing attire (particularly of the late 18th century), I would be most interested to hear of it. Thank you. - ---Caroline in Pennsylvania Carodec@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 14:35:49 -0800 From: "R.L. Shep" Subject: Re: Janet Arnold Books Carodec@aol.com wrote: > > Sheryl Nance wrote: > > > >"Two Early Seventeenth Century Fencing Doublets" > > I believe that this one is a chapter in a book. Only the chapter was > > written by Arnold. The citation that I have is a little confusing. > > > > If anyone has further information on this book, or on other > descriptions of fencing attire (particularly of the late 18th > century), I would be most interested to hear of it. Thank you. > > ---Caroline in Pennsylvania > Carodec@aol.com this is a small pamphlet which used to be for sale by the National Museum of Scotland. It is/was a reprint of an article she did for "Costume" which is the annual journal of The Costume Society (UK). You might ask Fred Struthers if he still has copies for sale: fsbks@mcn.org. R.L. Shep ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 17:52:03 -0500 From: JPMcTeer@aol.com Subject: Re: bloomers The only scholarly piece I know of is in the Annual Journal called "Dress" put out by the Costume Society of America. The issue is for 1980 and the article is "Bloomers" by Shelly Foote (Smithsonian). She has a wonderful daguerreotype of Amelia Bloomer, ca. 1853, on the cover. There are also fashion illustrations and many footnoted citations from magazines of the day. A full description was published in 1851, but this article didn't say that any patterns were published. No mention was made of underwear, except that corsets were worn with the outfit. She mentions fabrics used for particular outfits. The Severa book being mentioned of late also has at least one bloomer outfit being worn by a lady politician in the 1880's. If you find any patterns, please let us all know. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 18:20:31 -0500 From: RBarber854@aol.com Subject: Re: Living History Groups I experienced a similar problem (among others) in a volunteer folk music organization I belonged to. We called in a business consultant from the Small Business Administration (for FREE) and they were able to provide speakers at our meetings on how to hold meetings, delegate, etc. as well as organise the board a little better. I highly recommend it. Roxy Barber ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 23:04:47 -0500 (EST) From: GINA@delphi.com Subject: Re: H-Costume Digest V4 #70 Regarding Bloomers. Looking in my AMAZON DRYGOODS catalog, page 63, they show a pattern for the "1890's Bicycle Suit"..."A two piece, fully boned, double breasted sporting suit having large sleeves with sleeve proppers. The bloomers are gathered at the waistline and lower cuffs and have a center back opening. The gaiters button down the outside of the leg and have a strap that goes under the shoe. Patterns for the large bow and sporting hat are included. A blouse pattern is not included." This is in the Patterns From the Past Catalog, (12th yr. version...now they are up to 14, I believe). It's in the "Old World Enterprises" section, pattern #894, $12.95. The patterns are multi-sized, 8 thru 14. Contact them at: TEL 319-322-6800, FAX 319-322-4003, CONSULTATION 319-322-4138, ORDER ONLY 800-798-7979 (US and Canada). Hope this helps. - -Jocasta ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 00:08:03 -0500 (EST) From: GINA@delphi.com Subject: Re: H-Costume Digest V4 #52 Regarding; Washing Linen, Hello to all the kind and knowledgeable folks who sent information on the washing of linen...and many thanks to all for their postings, and notes. The upshot was, that I did buy a large quantity of pure Belgium Linen. (Not quite as expensive as I thought it might be). I also purchased a quantity of a pure linen/pure cotton blend. I stitched the ends together to form a circle with both fabrics, to prevent some of the fraying. Each was washed separately, by machine, in the hottest water available, and with soap, and liquid fabric softener, then machine dried on hot! Each piece was treated three times. The result is that the linen is lovely and soft, and supple. It has none of that stiff over-finished appearance that it has right off the bolt, and looks like it just came off someone's hand-loom. There was lengthwise shrinkage ...I would estimate about 2%, maybe more. I have not measured it yet, but I will if anyone is interested. The color appears to be unaffected in the pure linen, and only slightly lighter in the cotton blend. But both fabrics are just as I had hoped they would be! I will press it this weekend, (on the wrong side) and then start cutting. I expect the tunic (the pure linen) to be very handsome when done, and all trimmed with it's braid and gimp. Thank you to all who so kindly shared their expertise and experience. I doubt that I would have been so daring without so much support!! Huzzah! for the h-costume forum! - -Jocasta Chamberlayne (mka Regina) ------------------------------ Date: 15 Mar 96 04:20:31 EST From: Michael Percival <101610.1063@compuserve.com> Subject: re. Margaret Scott and other sources Hello everyone, I recently came across a wonderful book by Margaret Scott which may be the one that someone (I forget who - sorry) was trying to recall. It is: A Visual History of Costume - the 14th and 15th Centuries : Publ. Batsford. 1986 I found it in a local library and it looked pretty new and unused so this may (I do emphasise may) still be in print - most of the costume books in that library look used. Whilst I agree with Teresa that you have to take care with books by Norris I would not dismiss them completely. There are one or two bits that I get the feeling he has taken from documentary sources (Queen Isabella's trousseau for instance - if I'm wrong on that one Teresa, please let me know). The book that I like for that period is by M. G. Houston and is entitled "Medieval Costume in England and France" published by A & C Black (like so many of the books mentioned it's out of print and not easy to get hold of). This covers the 13th, 14th and 15th centuries and does include some construction notes as well as information on silks and embroidery patterns for the three centuries. Maggie Percival ------------------------------ Date: 15 Mar 96 04:58:17 EST From: Michael Percival <101610.1063@compuserve.com> Subject: Re.Margaret Scott and other sources Hello everyone, Firstly, apologies from me if this has already appeared on the list. I had a hiccup on the computer when I hit the disconnect button and verified it before it had finished transmitting, so whether the whole thing got through or none of it at all I don't know. I recently came across a wonderful book by Margaret Scott which may be the one that someone (I forget who - sorry) was trying to recall. It is: A Visual History of Costume - the 14th and 15th Centuries : Publ. Batsford. 1986 I found it in a local library and it looked pretty new and unused so this may (I do emphasise may) still be in print - most of the costume books in that library look used. Whilst I agree with Teresa that you have to take care with books by Norris I would not dismiss them completely. There are one or two bits that I get the feeling he has taken from documentary sources (Queen Isabella's trousseau for instance - if I'm wrong on that one Teresa, please let me know). The book that I like for that period is by M. G. Houston and is entitled "Medieval Costume in England and France" published by A & C Black (like so many of the books mentioned it's out of print and not easy to get hold of). This covers the 13th, 14th and 15th centuries and does include some construction notes as well as information on silks and embroidery patterns for the three centuries. Maggie Percival ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 06:54:54 -0500 From: Booboopies@aol.com Subject: Re: Living History Groups It's possible that the woman responsible for the program is overwhelmed or takes the word "responsible" very seriously. I work for someone like that everyday (fortunately, not at an historic site). Short of hiring a consultant as Roxy has suggested, the volunteers could organize among themselves and 1) just do what needs doing in spite of the director, take the initiative, and when she changes her mind, just say the job is already done or 2) approach the City Fathers and explain the problem to them. Oftentimes, they won't even know there's a problem until it's brought to their attention. As far as they know, she may be doing a wonderful job. Good luck and keep us all informed. Karen Mullian ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 06:22:40 -0800 From: Karen & Ricky Dick <71620.2247@compuserve.com> Subject: Costume Resources I publish a 200+ page reference book called THE WHOLE COSTUMER'S CATALOGUE. The 11th Edition is currently available--the 12th Edition will be available June, 1996 (it is going to the printer next week!). Price of either edition is $18.00 postpaid from Whole Costumer's Catalogue, P.O. Box 207, Beallsville, PA 15313-0207, (412) 632-3242. I accept personal checks, money orders, MasterCard, and Visa. Discounts given on quantity orders (10 or more books). The WCC lists over 1,000 companies that carry costumes, costume accessories, unusual clothing, vintage clothing, and contemporary and vintage shoes. Also the raw materials to make all kinds of costumes (historical, mascot, sci-fi, etc.): fabrics, sewing supplies, leather, plastics, corset parts, patterns, hats/hat forms, reference books, feathers, rhinestones, jewelry/jewelry parts, wigs, makeup, latex prosthetics, chainmail rings...you name it, it's probably in there somewhere. All companies are fully cross-referenced by geographic area and by topic (so you can find all the stores in your area--or one you are visiting--or find all the places that carry a particular item). The WCC also lists museums that have frequent costume displays, publishers of costuming books, and costume-related periodicals (magazines, newsletters) and organizations. There are shopping guides for major U.S. cities, and several pages of "design aids"--bodies you can trace over to design on if you can't draw the human form. The WCC has existed since 1983, and is updated every year (sometimes every other year) so information stays current. Hope this helps, Karen Dick, Managing Editor Whole Costumer's Catalogue ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 08:45:39 -0600 (CST) From: "Maria A. Sanders" Subject: Braid Winners Catalogue Some time ago, the address was put on the list for Braid Winners catalogue, but it didn't have the zip code, and I can't find it in the Post office big zip book. The info I have is Braid Winners, 146 Merrick Rd, Lynbrook NY,..... Thanks, Maria ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 9:11:31 -0600 (CST) From: "SHERYL J. NANCE" Subject: RE: Braid Winners Catalogue >Some time ago, the address was put on the list for Braid Winners >catalogue, but it didn't have the zip code, and I can't find it in the >Post office big zip book. The info I have is Braid Winners, 146 Merrick >Rd, Lynbrook NY,..... The ZIP code for Lynbrook NY is 11563. HTH! Sheryl J. Nance ...one of the secret masters of Kansas City MO Public Library the world: a librarian. They p_sheryl@kcpl.lib.mo.us control information. Don't ever p**s one off. - Spider Robinson, _The Callahan Touch_ (Opinions expressed in this message do not reflect the viewpoint of the Kansas City MO Public Library.) ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V4 #71 ****************************** A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!