From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V4 #73 Reply-To: h-costume Sender: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Monday, March 18 1996 Volume 4, Number 73 Compilation copyright (C) 1996 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: Re: Linen / sunshine Fwd: Re: bloomers Re: Faires Marital Status and Mode of Dress -Reply new dye? Re: Washing Linen Re: bleaching (was chlorophyl+Linen) Re: new dye? Re: Washing Linen Re:Washing Linen Marbling fabric Re: new dye? -Reply re: marbling Re: new dye? -Reply Re: new dye? Asbestos (was linen) [none] Asbestos (was linen) Costume Resource ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 06:34:24 -0800 From: gwjchris@ix.netcom.com (Bill and Glenna Christen) Subject: Re: Linen / sunshine You wrote: > >I'm surprised that no one has commented on the fact that the sunshine >disenfects the linen. It was an excellant way to keep the spread of >desease to a minimum. Good point, but no one knew about the disinfecting qualities until some time in the second half of the 19th century since they didn't know about germs, etc. Good thing we do today or many of us very likely wouldn't be alive!!! As far as how the bleaching process works, the sunlight oxydizes the water in the fabric. (That's why detergents with bleach have names like "Oxydol" etc.) This process works only on wet fabric. If you lay dry white fabrics out in the sun for a long time (days) the fabric will start to turn yellow instead of white! (Thank you Carolanne Schmidt for that little insight!) Glenna Jo Christen LHS, LSFS & MSAS gwjchris@ix.netcom.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 06:48:45 -0800 From: gwjchris@ix.netcom.com (Bill and Glenna Christen) Subject: Fwd: Re: bloomers This is a forwarded message from Saundra Altman of Past Patterns I hope it helps. Past Patterns includes excellent documentation with the patterns. Perhaps she should write books and include a pattern instead of the other way around?!? Glenna Jo Christen gwjchris@ix.netcom.com Forwarded Message: Please tell Beth that I am working on Bloomer pattern due to a twist of circumstances that has landed information in my lap that I cannot dismiss. The luck and the direction of research that has come my way is making me more and more comfortable with the women who wore "The American Costume" not just "Bloomers". ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 07:09:46 -0800 From: simonm@hunterlink.net.au (Simon Markatcheff) Subject: Re: Faires Hi, I have been following this thread/flame war with interest, mainly because we don't have Ren Faire's in Australia (at least not to my knowledge) and to be honest - accurate or not accurate - they sound like fun. I was reading a post by Trystan L. Bass who was describing the happenings in Ren Faires: >Besides, the picture of life in the Renaissance that these Ren Faires >present is not really wildly abberant from..... (snip) >The crafts aren't always >historical, and the games, plays, and jousts may well be anachronistic, but >they are there for entertainment purposes and to make money........ (snip) and I was struck by by a sense of deja vu. Has anyone else been to Mont St Michel in France? The narrow cobbled lanes that are about 6' wide at most spiralling steeply upwards with offshoot side lanes in all directions all leading eventually to the abbey above; the vendors shouting the quality of their wares, sometimes grabbing the unwary shopper to pull them into their stores; the smell of food cooked and displayed in open store fronts; crowds of people; noise....Mont St Michel is a medieval masterpiece of architecture and I don't think the atmosphere and look has changed much since the time of the first crusades. All that was missing were the clothes, everything else was perfect. (I know this is a bit off the topic of historic costuming but I hope you'll all forgive the aside...) Rowena ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 09:16:20 -0600 From: Jan Rosenthal Subject: Marital Status and Mode of Dress -Reply "Mr. Godey's Ladies" by Robert Kunciov says, in describing a set of 1860's hats, "At far left is a cap for a young matron. It is of lace and net. Fashion indicated caps of this sort only for matrons and made them taboo to unmarried ladies." "Victorian and Edwardian Fashion" by Alison Gernsheim says, "Broad sashes were often worn with the round-waisted dresses, and in Paris young girls tied them at the back, matrons in front." Not much to go on, but contributed for what it's worth! JR jan.rosenthal@metc.state.mn.us "It will be a delight to girls to learn that the fact of their sex is, in itself, not a bar to riding a wheel." Frances Willard, 1895 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 11:28:08 -0500 (EST) From: Lizzie Subject: new dye? I was speaking with a friend of mine and she has heard of a new dye for marblizing clothing. She described it as... "this dye floats on top of water and you swirl it around to create the marble effect. Then you dip your garment into the dyeand it comes out marblized." Wether or not this does exsist is what i would like to know. If it does what is it called and where could you find it. Future Thanks, Lizzie Keene, NH ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 11:25:50 -0500 From: RBarber854@aol.com Subject: Re: Washing Linen Karen, you write about not using comercial bleaches. To what are you refering and what is a non-comercial bleach? Thanks, Roxy ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 10:28:30 -0600 (CST) From: Deb Subject: Re: bleaching (was chlorophyl+Linen) re: the comment that commercial bleach adds a blue tint: Some time back, probably on this list, I read that the blue tint is added ON PURPOSE, because we Americans think a slight blue tint makes a garment look whiter. AND ... that this is not so in Europe, where their commercial bleach products have a slight PINK tint added. Apparently Europeans have been conditioned to think that a slight pink tint looks whiter. Now back to your grass & chlorophyl .... Deb Baddorf baddorf@fnal.gov ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 10:34:04 -0600 (CST) From: "Phaedra M. Williams" Subject: Re: new dye? I've seen the commercials for the dye you're talking about. I'm not sure where you would get it, but Wal-Mart or K-Mart might be worth a try. If I remember correctly, you can dip just about anything into the water and it will come out marbelized. On Mon, 18 Mar 1996, Lizzie wrote: > I was speaking with a friend of mine and she has heard of a new > dye for marblizing clothing. She described it as... "this dye floats on > top of water and you swirl it around to create the marble effect. Then > you dip your garment into the dyeand it comes out marblized." Wether or > not this does exsist is what i would like to know. If it does what is it > called and where could you find it. > > Future Thanks, > Lizzie > Keene, NH > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 11:51:39 -0500 From: RBarber854@aol.com Subject: Re: Washing Linen Subj: Re: Washing Linen To: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com About this ironing - I learned from a friend who learned from her grandmother who did it for a living. The rolliing it up damp was to keep it that way until you got to it. The reason you iron linen last is because it is ironed at a slightly hotter settiing than the cottons. Iron until "bone dry" before disturbing each section and it will wrinkle less. I do this with my cotton too for a crisp press job that tends to last longer. A steam iron won't let it get bone dry, you need to use the iron with the steam off and the fabric thouroughly damp, but not wet. Just passing on an old wives tale that seems to work Roxy Barber ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 11:56:44 -0500 From: RBarber854@aol.com Subject: Re:Washing Linen Karen, you write about not using comercial bleaches. To what are you refering and what is a non-comercial bleach? Thanks, Roxy ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 11:32:04 -0600 (CST) From: "SHERYL J. NANCE" Subject: Marbling fabric I don't know of any specific dyes to use for marbling fabric, but I found three books in my library's catalog. I'm sure that at least one of them would recommend which dyes to use. _Marbling of Fabric_ by Daniel Cohen, 1990. _Marbling Techniques: how to create traditional and contemporary designs on paper and fabric_ by Wendy Addison Medeiros, 1994. _Marbling Paper & Fabric_ by Carol Taylor, 1991. HTH! Sheryl J. Nance ...one of the secret masters of Kansas City MO Public Library the world: a librarian. They p_sheryl@kcpl.lib.mo.us control information. Don't ever p**s one off. - Spider Robinson, _The Callahan Touch_ (Opinions expressed in this message do not reflect the viewpoint of the Kansas City MO Public Library.) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 11:39:00 -0600 From: Jan Rosenthal Subject: Re: new dye? -Reply I read something about marblizing once. Since it is not water soluble, the dye floats on top of a container of water. You can use a comb or other utensil to do the swirling, and then carefully place your paper or whatever on the dye. I seem to remember the piece I read was in relation to the decorated inside sheets of book covers. You might try craft stores for the supplies, although I used to work in retail craft sales and don't remember seeing anything specifically for this. It might be that any water-insoluble dye or paint would work as long as it was OK for fabric, and you may want to heat-set your piece with an iron once you're done. Good luck with it--it's something I've always wanted to try. JR jan.rosenthal@metc.state.mn.us "Don't try to get the better of your wheel. You cannot teach it anything, and there is really much for you to learn." Maria E. Ward, 1896 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 09:44:09 -0800 (PST) From: Kimberly Smay Subject: re: marbling I have not used them, but Pro Chemical and dye makes a fabric marbling product. the address is p.o. box 14 somerset, mass 02726 (508) 676-3838 my literature is old so i hope the address and phone are still correct. kimberly smay ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 11:54:01 -0600 (CST) From: Deb Subject: Re: new dye? -Reply Well, if we are straying as far as dyes for paper on the insides of book covers ... there are Easter Egg dye kits (or there used to be) which work in the way described (stuff floats on water, you dip egg into it). Might work for a small handkerchief .... :-) Or, perhaps, it would do a more spread out (less marbelized effect) with a larger body of water. Deb baddorf@fnal.gov ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 12:42:47 -0600 (CST) From: textile@airmail.net (AnnMarie Wilson) Subject: Re: new dye? I'm drawing a blank on the name.. but I've used it. Mail ordered it last year. Hated it. You mix water with I believe Alum... you have to keep testing until you get the right mix or your dye won't be right. As in stay put! It seems to be primarily used on objects..... light bases, candles, baseball cap brims. Tried to do several small pieces of fabric.... not good. You have to SUBMERGE the item then draw it back through the dyes floating on the top. Its not like regular marbling at all. In fact, the candles I did... a few weeks later the marblizing flaked right off. I tossed the stuff. Stick with the regular stuff.. you'll be happier. Annie The Journey is not the Adventure... The Destination is not the Adventure... LIFE is the Adventure! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 13:28:04 -0500 From: Cin Subject: Asbestos (was linen) While we're on the subject of linen, I thought I'd pass along this fabulous tidbit from Pliny the Elder's _Natural History_. He was born in 23 CE in the early years of the Roman Empire. "There hsas been invented also a kind of linen which is incombustible by flame. It is generally known as "live" linen, and I have seen napkins that were made of it thrown into a blazing fire in the room where the guests were at table, and after the stains were burnt out, come forth from the flames whiter and cleaner than they could possibly have been rendered by the aid of water. It is from this material that the corpse-cloths of monarchs are made, to ensure the separation of the ashes of the body from those of the pile. "This substance grows in the deserts of India, scorched by the burning rays of the sun: here, where no rain is ever known to fall, and amid multitudes of deadly serpents, it becomes habituated to resist the action of fire. Rarely to be found, it presents considerable difficulties in weaving it into a tissue in consequence of it's shortness; it's color is naturally red and it only becomes white through the agency of fire. By those who find it it is sold at prices equal to those given for the finest pearls. "By the Greeks it is called "asbestinon," a name which makes a statement to the effect that if a tree is surrounded with linen made of this substance the noise of the blows given by the axe will be deadened thereby and that the tree may be cut down without their being heard. For these qualities it is that this linen occupies the very highest rank among all the kinds that are known." Of course, asbestos is a fibrous mineral not a plant, but I thought you enjoy the fantasy. Pliny was an excellent observer and recorder, but he had a penchant for writing down every bit of gossip he ever heard. - --cin cin@netuser.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 16:44:44 -0500 From: HMHousman@aol.com Subject: [none] ing this weekend and found a great deal!! Michael Levine's in Los Angeles has about 15 bolts of different colors and weights of raw silk for $5.00 a yard. They have quite a few colors which would be great for Ren Faire (I got the olive and mustard myself...) I don't know how long the special (or the fabric) will last, so hurry. They also do mail order. I scrutinized carefully so feel free to e-mail about specific colors and weights if you need to. Michael Levine, Inc. 920 S. Maple Ave. Los Angeles, CA 90015-1812 (213) 622-6259 (213) 622-6316 (213) 683-0504 Fax Cross street - 9th St. Open 7 days a week now!! One of the better sources for brocades and trims in L.A.: F&S Fabrics 10629 W. Pico Blvd. Los Angeles, CA 90064 (310) 475-1637 (310) 470-0028 (Fax) Cross street - Overland Open 7 days a week! Hope your St. Paddy's Day was wonderful!!! Heather Housman ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 13:42:49 -0800 From: CBecht@lmumail.lmu.edu Subject: Asbestos (was linen) Cin's great Pliny quote reminds me of a quirky Victorian children's book I ran across while helping to catalog UCLA's rare children's collection. The book is: The beautiful garment. Boston: Mass. Sabbath School Society, [1846]. The quote I culled from it is this: "Oh, grandmother! I know now, it's made of asbestos; you mean an asbestos dress;" and she leaned upon her grand-mother's knee, looking eagerly into her face. Perhaps all children know that asbestos is a mineral that can be made into threads and wove into garments, which heat cannot consume." - Cynthia cbecht@lmumail.lmu.edu ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 14:20:26 -0800 From: Karen & Ricky Dick <71620.2247@compuserve.com> Subject: Costume Resource I publish a 200+ page reference book called THE WHOLE COSTUMER'S CATALOGUE. The 11th Edition is currently available--the 12th Edition will be available June, 1996 (it is going to the printer next week!). Price of either edition is $18.00 postpaid from Whole Costumer's Catalogue, P.O. Box 207, Beallsville, PA 15313-0207, (412) 632-3242. I accept personal checks, money orders, MasterCard, and Visa. Discounts given on quantity orders (10 or more books). The WCC lists over 1,000 companies that carry costumes, costume accessories, unusual clothing, vintage clothing, and contemporary and vintage shoes. Also the raw materials to make all kinds of costumes (historical, mascot, sci-fi, etc.): fabrics, sewing supplies, leather, plastics, corset parts, patterns, hats/hat forms, reference books, feathers, rhinestones, jewelry/jewelry parts, wigs, makeup, latex prosthetics, chainmail rings...you name it, it's probably in there somewhere. All companies are fully cross-referenced by geographic area and by topic (so you can find all the stores in your area--or one you are visiting--or find all the places that carry a particular item). The WCC also lists museums that have frequent costume displays, publishers of costuming books, and costume-related periodicals (magazines, newsletters) and organizations. There are shopping guides for major U.S. cities, and several pages of "design aids"--bodies you can trace over to design on if you can't draw the human form. The WCC has existed since 1983, and is updated every year (sometimes every other year) so information stays current. Hope this helps, Karen Dick, Managing Editor Whole Costumer's Catalogue ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V4 #73 ****************************** A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!