From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V4 #78 Reply-To: h-costume Sender: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Saturday, March 23 1996 Volume 4, Number 78 Compilation copyright (C) 1996 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: Re: Kinsale Cloak Pattern Newsletter on Costuming Re: Hennins. paterns Hennins Re: Hennins. Zoot Siuit info/patterns? RE: Zoot Siuit info/patterns? Basses, 1480's Italian - anyone done it? Re: Costume College Re: paterns Sorry Sarahj! 1400 Houpelaunde Bayeux Tapesty Bibliography Folkwear Out of Print List ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 17:19:33 -0500 From: Morghana@aol.com Subject: Re: Kinsale Cloak Pattern In a message dated 96-03-21 15:21:27 EST, you write: >I am looking for a Kinsale cloak pattern for Lincoln's New Salem State >Historic Site in Illinois. It was sold through Past Patterns and Amazon as >a Harper House No. S207. It is no longer being distributed, and the village >needs a copy. > >Does anyone know where I can get the pattern? > > Try Chivalry Sports... They have a website with pictures and info from the catalog. http://members.aol.com/ChivSports/ I've purchased several things from Chivalry Sports and been quite satisfied with their customer service. If they don't have it, they might know who still carries it. :) ~Morghana ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 00:18:04 -0600 From: Ruth Cooper Subject: Newsletter on Costuming I too would be interested in a newsletter on costuming. If anyone has information on the RENAISSANCE MAGAZINE (i.e. ordering, sample copies) I would appreciate it. Another relatively new magazine called RECREATING HISTORY is attempting to cover most time periods for re-enactors and includes some costuming, jewelry, meals, etc. for the variety of time periods covered. I have only received my second issue but like what I see. Also thank-you to Meredydd for the info on making hennins and cotehardies posted here from a fellow SCA-er. The information was most helpful. Ruth M'lady Kassia MacWilliams Minister of Children Costuming for fun and to play Learning all the time ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 01:29:15 -0500 From: MLaventure@aol.com Subject: Re: Hennins. Sarahj, Regarding your comment that "just about every Disney Pincess has worn one..." I have to tell you that I have been a milliner at Disneyland for 5 years, making hats for the characters, parades, shows and audio-animatronics and I have yet to make a henin for any Disney princess. They did exist historically, and are featured in a lot of fantasy, but Disney has rarely used them. (We did have one for a court dancer for the old Christmas parade). Mary ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 21 Mar 96 17:04:54 CST From: bednarek@tidalwave.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971 ~BHOSVWZ#097) Subject: paterns Could anyone lead me to source of patterns for corsets and other period underwear. I'm hoping on a single catalog rather than going to 30 sources. Thanks ------------------------------ Date: 22 Mar 1996 08:16:08 GMT From: "Steve Carter" Subject: Hennins Good Day All, On the subject of hennins. That little fabric covered loop on the front of the hennin is formed from the wire that runs around the base of the headpiece (stabilizing the base of the headpiece). Its function is to help hold the hennin on your head. It should press gently on your forehead. You'll notice that most hennins are not exactly centered on the head. They have a definate tendency to point toward the back of the head. This loop will help to keep it on. Also take care when using "large" hats with veils in the breeze. My wife tells me that they cause quite a bit of neck strain in a breeze. I can agree. I have seen her in "full sail". Hope this helps, In Service Steve & Elizabeth scarter@ins.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 08:43:38 -0800 (PST) From: "K. Schroeder-Laporte" Subject: Re: Hennins. The only characters that I can think of who wore henins (in a Disney Film) were Flora, Fauna and Merriweather, the good fairies in "Sleeping Beauty". I don't know if I'd call Maleficent's headpiece horns or a really stylized hennin, too... and they only had them on for a short period of time in the film. On Fri, 22 Mar 1996 MLaventure@aol.com wrote: > Sarahj, > Regarding your comment that "just about every Disney Pincess has worn one..." > I have to tell you that I have been a milliner at Disneyland for 5 years, > making hats for the characters, parades, shows and audio-animatronics and I > have yet to make a henin for any Disney princess. > > They did exist historically, and are featured in a lot of fantasy, but Disney > has rarely used them. (We did have one for a court dancer for the old > Christmas parade). > > Mary > Adelheid von Luebeck Acting Arts & Sciences College of St. Bunstable http://weber.u.washington.edu/~stareyed/bunstable/bunstable.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 11:42:41 -0800 From: Heather Meadows Subject: Zoot Siuit info/patterns? It's so impossible to find men's costuming information! I'm trying to find research/pattern information for a zoot suit for a frienedd - but I hcan't cfind anything that modern in most of my historical sources and I cant' find anything that old in any of the modern sources! help! I know -so many- shows have used these suits - someone's gotta have a pattern for them! the only pictures I can find are too vague to work from ! any info at all appreciated -- - -heather medadoews godiva@bing.apple.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Mar 96 13:08:55 PST From: robert@structured.net (Robert Verde) Subject: RE: Zoot Siuit info/patterns? - --- Begin Included Message --- It's so impossible to find men's costuming information! I'm trying to find research/pattern information for a zoot suit for a frienedd - but I hcan't cfind anything that modern in most of my historical sources and I cant' find anything that old in any of the modern sources! help! I know -so many- shows have used these suits - someone's gotta have a pattern for them! the only pictures I can find are too vague to work from ! any info at all appreciated -- - -heather medadoews godiva@bing.apple.com - --- End Included Message --- I also would be very interested in any information on patterns/info on zoot suits. One of the recent issues of a low-rider (car) magazine I perused in the check out lane had the male models in a photo shoot wearing zoot suits. No info was given in the photo credits, however. Robert Robert Verde Internet Services ******************************************************************** * Structured Network Systems, Inc. * * Providing frame relay and dedicated connections from 56k to DS3! * * Web: http://www.structured.net E-mail: robert@structured.net * * (800)881-0962 or (503)656-3530 PDT * ******************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Mar 96 15:31:58 EST From: Eric Praetzel Subject: Basses, 1480's Italian - anyone done it? Hail, I've decided to finally cut into some of my fabric purchases and make a set of basses. That is a skirt of about 25" length made from alternating fabrics that has a heavy fabric lining as well as about 1/2" padding. I'm using 44 stripes that go from 1" at the top to 4" at the bottom (about 15' circumferance). Has anyone pulled this off and had it look good and hang so that it is very full without boning or some sort of mechanical support? I've seen one paining of 4 Swiss knights with such skirts and I'd love to get the look but am not sure that it is possible. I was going to using quilting padding; or try that. I'm just not sure if I'm better using a heavy jean-fabric lining or lots of padding to get the fullness. Suggestions? - Eric ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 13:04:07 -0800 From: Ngelina@aol.com Subject: Re: Costume College Costume College is a weekend seminar of classes on costuming topics and techniques--actually we slop over each end of the weekend, this year with corset workshops on Friday, tours of local costume shops, and garment district tours on Monday. In between we run about 5 tracks of lectures, demos and hands-on workshops on medieval, renaissance and men's clothing, and science fiction and fantasy costuming. In addition, every year we choose a focus subject: this year it's Georgian clothing, c.1720-1780. We also have a dealer's room (the Friday evening feeding-frenzy is fairly entertaining), and the Time Traveler's Gala, a formal dinner and dance (formal dress of _any_ type/period requested) on Saturday evening. All of which is happening Friday-Sunday, July 19-21, 1996, at the Airtel Plaza Hotel in Van Nuys, CA. Memberships are $60 ($40 for International Costumer's Guild members); the Time Traveler's Gala is $40 ($30 for members). Deadline for registration is June 1, but the conference will probably sell out before that: if you're interested, write for more info or send memberships to the Guild at PO Box 94538, Pasadena, CA 91109. FOR Y'ALL WITH SUBSCRIPTIONS: We're working on the class registration/information packet: date for collating is April 14th. Expect them in the mail in the following week. See you there-- Karen Allen Publications, Costume College ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 17:45:44 -0500 From: Booboopies@aol.com Subject: Re: paterns What period? ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 18:06:20 -0600 From: Ruth Cooper Subject: Sorry Sarahj! I was tired last night when I sent my message. Thank-you Sarahj for forwarding Meredydd's information on hennins and cote-hardies to the costuming list, it is most appreciated! As we are having a cote-hardie class next month, our instructor is most pleased to have another view point on making them. Thank-you again. Ruth M'lady Kassia MacWilliams Minister of Children Costuming for fun and to play Learning all the time ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 22:55:49 -0800 From: LMetz Subject: I was wondering, does anyone here know what is required to become a member of a national or statewide costumer's group? I know there is one major one but I cannot remember the name of it. Also, does anyone know anything about the Cal State LA Fashion Design Program and any Costuming options it might have? I read in the catalogue that a person wishing to enter into that field might look there and was wondering if anyone had first-hand knowledge of it. LNoelle ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Mar 1996 00:32:13 -0700 (MST) From: Renee Simard Subject: 1400 Houpelaunde Greetings all, I have a couple of questions about a 1413 Houpelaunde (I think that is how it is spelled). I hope that someone from this list can assist me. I have been looking at a number of paintings from that time period and seen the same dress in many forms. The questions I have are these: Many appear to have gathers in the front and back into the belted "waist" (really more like the rib cage). Would these have been "cartridge pleats" and it not what type would have been used? If I put these into my design do I add them so they begin at the neck line or should they in essance come to a point below the actual neck? Several pictures show a style of embelished collar that appears to be added over top of the dress. Some are drappped over a shoulder in a baldric fashion. I can never seem to find a detailed enough picture of these but would like to have on for my dress? Any suggestions on what they might actually be? Cloth? jewelry on cloth? Finally, most of the paintings show the sleeve edges either as plain, trimmed with a tassle like trim or with square like daggs. I really like the look of "oak leaf" daggs but cannot find a single picture that validates them. Are they just "Holywood" versions of the sleeve edges? I belong to the SCA so I can to some extent be creative with the design but I would like it to as historical as I can make it. Thank you so much if there is anyone who may have any ideas. Renee Simard ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Mar 1996 06:28:29 -0500 From: Ladnier@aol.com Subject: Bayeux Tapesty Bibliography Many people ask me to post the bibliography. I am glad you are interested in the Bayeux Tapestry. It is considered by some the best documentation of costumes during its time. I did an extensive research paper on the tapestry and enjoyed every minute. While in London last week, I was so tempted to hop over to France to view it, but my time was limited. I also photocopied and bound the entire tapestry and named the majority of the clothing worn in it. Yes, as a student and researcher I go overboard. Here it is, the *** means I added special notes of the "must read" books. Please forgive any tpying errors. Bibliography of the Bayeux Tapestry Anderson, John D. "The Bayeux Tapestry: A 900-Year-Old Latin Cartoon," The Classical Journal, Feb./Mar. 1986, Vol. 81, No. 3, pp. 253-7. Berstein, David. "The Mystery of the Bayeux Tapestry," London: Weidenfeld & Nicholson Ltd., 1986. Brummel, George Bryan. "Male and Female Costume," New York: Benjamin Blom, Inc., 1972. Calthrop, Dion Clayton. "English Costume, 1066-1820," London: A. & C. Black Limited, 1963. Carter, John Marshall. "The Bayeux Tapestry Across the Cirriculum," The Clearing House, Dec. 1986, Vol. 60, No. 4, pp 314-16. Carter, John Marshall. "The Bayeux Tapestry in the Social Studies Class," Social Education, April/May 1986, Vol. XVI, No. 4, pp. 18-20. ***these two articles by Carter are about the same. D'Assailly, Gisele. "Ages of Elegance, Five Thousand Years of Fashion and Frivolity," Paris: Library Hachette, 1968. Eubank, Keith and Tortora, Phyllis. "Survey of Historic Costume," New York: Fairchild Publications, Second Edition, 1994. Foote, Timothy. "Tapestried Tales of Two Rough Channel Crossings," Smithsonian, May, 1994, Vol. 25, No. 2, pp.68-81. Fowke, Frank Rede. "The Bayeux Tapestry, a History and Description," St. Clairs, Michigan: Scholarly Press, Inc., 1971. Gibbs-Smith, Charles H. "The Bayeux Tapestry," London: Phaidon Press Ltd., 1973. Herbenova, O. Kybalova, L. & Lamarova, M. "The Pictorial Encyclopedia of Fashion," New York: Crown Publishers, 1968. "How to Embroider History," History Today, Oct. 1993, Vol. 43, pp. 6-7. Jewell, Brian. "Conquest & Overload, The Story of the Bayeux Tapestry and the Overload Embroidery," London and the Hague: East-West Publications, 1981. ***Good comparison. Kleiner, Fred S. and Tansey, Richard G. "Gardner's Art Through the Ages," U.S.: Harcourt Brace College Publishers, Tenth Edition, 1996. Morazzoni, Marti. "The Invention of the Truth," New York: Alfred A. Knopf, Inc. 1988.***This is a wonderful book. I was the only person to check this book out at our library. I checked it out several times, to let all my sewing friends read it. I recommend it to anyone who sews. If you cannot find it, ask interlibrary(sp?) loan to get it for you. Norris, Herbert. "Costume & Fashion, Senlac to Bosworth, 1066-1485," New York: E.P. Dutton and Co., Vol. 2, Year???. Riding, Alan. "In Bayeux, 1066, 1944, and All That," New York Times, Aug. 11, 1991, Section 5, p. 8. ***Excellant article. Setton, Kenneth M., Ph.D., Litt.D. "The Norman Conquest, 900 Years Ago," National Geographic, Aug. 1966, Vol. 130, No. 2, pp. 206-51. ***This is considered to be the best photography of the tapestry. Sulzberger, C.L. "Reading the Great Tapestry," New York Times, Aug. 11, 1991, Section 5, p. 9. West, John. "Frieze Frame," The Times Educational Supplement, Feb.17, 1989, No. 3790, Sec. B, p. 26. If you have any questions make sure you Email me at my permanent address in my signature (vcu). I am getting on to a new server this week. $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ Pennies from Heaven, where it’s always reigning money Penny E. Ladnier, Virginia Commonwealth University s0peladn@cabell.vcu.edu $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $$$ $ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Mar 1996 07:08:04 -0500 From: EGerds@aol.com Subject: Folkwear Out of Print List Ok folks, here is the list of what I know as of a month ago. I will try to update people as I find out the information. If a alternate pattern is available from another company I have said so. Currently Out of Print Folkwear: 123 Austrian Dirndl (AlterYears still has some in stock) 132 Moroccan Burnoose (There is another Burnoose pattern, Atira's Fashions) 152 Scottish Kilts(Instructions for making a Kilt are in Threads #33) 153 Siberian Parka 207 Kinsale Cloak 209 Walking Skirt (Similar is Rocking Horse Farm 1890's Five Gore Skirt) 212 Five Frontier Shirts(Buccaroo Bobbins or Jean Hardy western shirts) 213 Child's Prarrie Dress and Pinafore 215 Empire Dress(Period Impressions, Rocking Horse Farm & Old World have empire dresses) 221 English Smock 231 Big Sky Riding Skirt*(Buccaroo Bobbins, Jean Hardy or SuitAbility have riding skirts) 233 Glamour Girl Dress 503 Poiret Cocoon Coat 504 Afternoon Dress, Paris 1920(AlterYears still has some stock) 508 Traveling Suit All currently available Folkwear patterns( and patterns from the other companies I've mentioned) are available from AlterYears, both at the retail store and by mail order. Like other companies mentioned here, we can ship anywhere in the world. Phone: (818) 585-2994 Fax (818) 432-4530 Address: 3749 E. Colorado Blvd, Pasadena CA 91107 Anyone interested in specific detail can contact me at egerds@aol.com Thank you, hope this information helps. Liz ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V4 #78 ****************************** A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!