From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest) To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: H-Costume Digest V4 #84 Reply-To: h-costume Sender: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Errors-To: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com Precedence: bulk H-Costume Digest Thursday, March 28 1996 Volume 4, Number 84 Compilation copyright (C) 1996 Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller Use in whole prohibited. Individual articles are the property of the author. Seek permission from that author before reprinting or quoting elsewhere. Important Addresses: Send submissions to: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to this message). Adds/drops/archives: majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com Real, live person: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Topics: Waterproofed "rubber" clothing Waterproofing umbrellas Waist sizes Re[2]: hoop skirts FWD>RE>tambour embroidery Re: 2 quick questions Re: It Makes Sense corsets tambour embroidery (fwd) Re: Waist sizes Re: tambour embroidery tambour embroidery Re: tambour embroidery RE: 2 quick questions Creosote (Formarly Waterproofing) Re: Corsets Re: Speaking of tents ... Re: Tent cleaning Re: Bumrolls (formarly corsets) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 12:10:23 -0500 From: mhamilto@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Marsha Hamilton) Subject: Waterproofed "rubber" clothing >Civil War "gum blankets" were painted with latex on one side, I've heard, >to >double as a poncho. Charles Goodyear's vulcanizing process, ca. 1830 >I >believe, made the latex less prone to stick to itself and other things, >but >even vulcanized latex can do this today if you're not careful to >powder it. I have some letters my great-grandfather Alfred Hamilton wrote during the Civil War. In one, he mentions Abraham Lincoln coming to visit the Army of the Potomac. Although Alfred wrote his father that Lincoln was far away and he couldn't see him well, he mentions that he was riding on horseback accompanied by several ladies. He was wearing rubber pants to protect his clothes from the mud. That was the first I'd heard of this clothing item. But Alfred just mentions it briefly and doesn't describe it as unusual so I assume it was an everyday item. Is anyone else familiar with gummed rubber overpants? Marsha J. Hamilton Head, Monograph Acquisition Division.....phone: (614) 292-6314 The Ohio State University Libraries........fax: (614) 292-2015 1858 Neil Avenue Mall...................e-mail: hamilton.8@osu.edu Columbus, OH 43210-1286 USA ................ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 12:10:42 -0500 From: mhamilto@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Marsha Hamilton) Subject: Waterproofing umbrellas >>I don't know _everything_ that >> was used, but I know that fabric or paper treated with grease >> (animal fat) was one of the things used. The result was omething >> like the oriental paper umbrellas you still see. (Though I don't >> know what they use to make those currently). When I bought a Chinese paper umbrella years ago, the Chinese seller told me it was treated with creosote to be waterproof. (Can anyone verify whether that is true?) It did have a distinct smell. I used it steadily for about five years before it got several little tears in the paper. It was heavy to carry but I was the only one on windy days with an intact umbrella. My dictionary defines creosote as a flammable oily yellow or brown liquid of distilled wood tar or coal tar. Marsha ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 12:10:44 -0500 From: mhamilto@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Marsha Hamilton) Subject: Waist sizes >> I'm inclined to think that larger waists are simply a step in evolution. > >I believe this "tiny waist thing" is more of a Victorian era fashion. I, >too, used to believe larger waists were a step in evolution until I enlarged >to scale some 18th century patterns taken off original garments....these >garments had 30" waists!! I have a wonderful book of Russian 18th and 19th century clothing in the Hermitage collection. Even though the styles, materials, and silhouettes are similar to French or English fashions, there was a much wider range of sizes. Some men's and women's clothing was for very tiny people but others were for women of large girth--yet they were still fashionable and ornate. Some ethnic groups tend to be heavier built and the extra poundage sure can keep out the cold. These gowns gave me encouragement since I haven't had an 18" waist since childhood. Marsha ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 09:25:01 -0800 From: Stacey Weinberger at WADSWORTH Subject: Re[2]: hoop skirts New Text Item: Re: hoop skirts Are there any patterns (commercial or otherwise) or material sources for making a cage crinoline? I unfortunately don't have access to an original to copy. Thanks! Stacey Stacey_Weinberger@wadsworth.com ------------------------------ Date: 28 Mar 1996 09:30:04 -0800 From: "Karen Lovejoy" Subject: FWD>RE>tambour embroidery Mail*Link( SMTP FWD>RE>tambour embroidery I too have been looking for a tambour needle. If you ever did those latch hook rugs that were popular in the 70's, a tambour needle is similar to the latch hook except much smaller. It has a hook to catch the thread on and a little latch to keep it from slipping off. They are very small, about the size of an embroidery needle eye and I have been looking for one for years. I'd love to hear if anyone knows where I could get one. - -------------------------------------- Date: 3/28/96 7:13 From: Staff - Michigan Health Promot On Thu, 28 Mar 1996 WRASaylor@aol.com wrote: > Does anyone know where I can get a tambour embroidery needle. > > Tambour embroidery is basically a chain stitch, except it is formed by > punching a needle (about equal to a tiny latch hook) through the top > of the fabric and pulling through the loop only. This allows metal > > Thanks - Rhodry wrasaylor@aol.com I 'm not sure from your description if this is what is now popularly known as Needle-Punch (Brand name Pretty Punch). My mom took it up in the late 80's. If the needle doesn't have to be historically correct, this might do it for you. I'm remebering this thing as plactic handled about the size of a ballpoint pen. Does that sound at all reasonalbe? Joyous M ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 21:48:26 -0800 From: KaosWarior@vcnet.com Subject: Re: 2 quick questions >Er, sorry only one this time, unfortunately off-topic. > >I received one of the lovely chain letters today and was trying to figure out >how my name got on this guy's list...so I was wondering if anyone else here >received the letter from Steve Ryder at udel.edu? I too rrecieved the chain letter. It was addressed to many of the people I 've seen who've posted on the list, but since it was sent to the individuals, I don't think there is much to be done but to FLAME the offender. I'm not to thrilled about this nonsense but, if the perp get's wind of this letter I think it's justice if all the listed receipents flamed her/him annoyed Husgh S. Smith ---------- / / --------------- O O TO BOLDY SCOOT, WHERE NO MAN HATH SCOOTED BEFORE! ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 21:48:31 -0800 From: KaosWarior@vcnet.com Subject: Re: It Makes Sense Gee, I wonder why some Govt officials are pushed to enact legislation to police the Internet could it be there are people who feel that they can unload tons of unwanted garbage taking up gigabytes of memory for what purpose why don't you save all of us wasted time by not sending your tripe to everyone when they dont want, by your leching e-dresses from non related lists to pervert with you unwanted excrement! If you want interested parties on your chain-pyramid-what ever letters start a related list on your news groups and leave us out of it!!!!!!! >PLEASE READ THIS ENTIRE MESSAGE: > >FACT: Good things stay with us. >PROOF: Computers, Cars, Elvis > Elvis??????? Come on, The blimp is DEAD! get on with your life REMOVE MINE AND EVERY ONE ELSE'S E-DRESSES FROM YOU LIST NOW!!!!!!! my apologies to the list members & staff but not the moron abusing it Agitaed & Highly Annoyed Hugh S Smith. ---------- / / --------------- O O TO BOLDY SCOOT, WHERE NO MAN HATH SCOOTED BEFORE! ------------------------------ Date: 28 Mar 1996 09:43:25 -0800 From: "Karen Lovejoy" Subject: corsets When I mad my Elizabethan corset, I made it with a heavily boned estension for my lower back. It takes the weight of the hoops and skirts off of my lower back and redistributes it. It has been a great boon I have a lot of lower back problems. It may not be correct, but the support I get is more than worth the lack of period correctness. Just my opinion. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 12:43:45 -0500 (EST) From: Sharron Fina Subject: tambour embroidery (fwd) To fellow needleworkers: Since there has been several other queries, here is what I know of tambour work. Sharron Fina On Thu, 28 Mar 1996 WRASaylor@aol.com wrote: > > Does anyone know where I can get a tambour embroidery needle. > The best hook to use is a metal crochet hook, which, I believe, is what was originally used, only in a more fancified form. (Originals looked much like a latch hook, but without the moveable piece to hold the thread). They come in various sizes, from 00 to 14, with 14 being the finest. If you crochet, or know someone who crochets, it will be a help in choosing the size you need for whatever size thread you are using. Tambour work can be done with a regular embroidery hoop, but I can definitely see the advantage of using the tambour hoop (it looks like a conga drum). The finished work looks like chain-stitch embroidery, but a lot more even in stitch size. I've used a size 11 hook with DMC gold metallic on velvet for a very nice effect. Since you don't have to pull the thread repeatedly through the material like with embroidery, the thread doesn't fray. It does work VERY fast; you seem to spend more time moving the hoop than actually stitching. Hope this helps. Sharron Fina sfina@retina.anatomy.upenn.edu Department of Neuroscience University of Pennsylvania Philadelphia PA ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 10:47:36 -0700 From: Sharon Bolton Subject: Re: Waist sizes >Some ethnic groups tend to be heavier built and the extra poundage sure can >keep out the cold. These gowns gave me encouragement since I haven't had >an 18" waist since childhood. An 18" waist? I'd be happy if I had an 18" THIGH! Short Fat Sharon in Phoenix ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 09:55:56 -0800 From: Stacey Weinberger at WADSWORTH Subject: Re: tambour embroidery New Text Item: tambour embroidery Try Lacis in Berkeley, CA. They have just about every thing for needleworking and they do mail order. There number is (510) 843-7178. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 09:51 -0800 (PST) From: Catherine.Keegan@ncal.kaiperm.org Subject: tambour embroidery Lacis carries tambour embroidery needles and needle holders. Their address is 2982 Adeline, Berkeley. Phone 510 843 7290. Very nice people and they do mail order as well. Good luck with your new craft! Catherine Keegan ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 15:10:21 -0500 (EST) From: Gretchen Miller Subject: Re: tambour embroidery Lacis also has a web page: http://www.lacis.com/lacis/ toodles, gretchen ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 16:11:06 -0500 From: Louise Sugar Subject: RE: 2 quick questions I think it was not just to the list as I received it on AOL Louise - ---------- From: KaosWarior@vcnet.com[SMTP:KaosWarior@vcnet.com] Sent: Thursday, March 28, 1996 12:48 AM To: The Jetdillo Cc: h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com Subject: Re: 2 quick questions >Er, sorry only one this time, unfortunately off-topic. > >I received one of the lovely chain letters today and was trying to figure out >how my name got on this guy's list...so I was wondering if anyone else here >received the letter from Steve Ryder at udel.edu? I too rrecieved the chain letter. It was addressed to many of the people I 've seen who've posted on the list, but since it was sent to the individuals, I don't think there is much to be done but to FLAME the offender. I'm not to thrilled about this nonsense but, if the perp get's wind of this letter I think it's justice if all the listed receipents flamed her/him annoyed Husgh S. Smith ---------- / / --------------- O O TO BOLDY SCOOT, WHERE NO MAN HATH SCOOTED BEFORE! ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 16:33:45 -0500 From: HMHousman@aol.com Subject: Creosote (Formarly Waterproofing) Creosote is the hard, black substance you find on the inside of your chimney. When soot builds up and hardens it forms creosote. It's very dangerous in your chimney because it can be flamable when _wet_! By extrapolation, I would assume soot was brushed on to created a protective layer on the paper umbrella; however, you should be careful to keep it aware from open flames! Anyone wanting more info on it feel free to e-mail me privately. I used to work for a chimney sweep company.... Have a great day!! Heather Housman ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 16:33:53 -0500 From: HMHousman@aol.com Subject: Re: Corsets Two years ago I was wearing my corset, bumroll, and hoops 40 hours a week, which eventually threw out my lower back. The following season I extended the back boning on my corset and I haven't had any problems!!! We tend to blame corsets for all our back woes, but I found my bumroll was as much, if not more, of the culprit. If your bumroll doesn't sit perfectly straight (i.e. horizontal with the ground when you're standing up straight) you're in for trouble. If it tilts forward it will put all the weight of your skirts on to your hip bone and can actually bruise you! If it tilts back it will put the weight on you lower back!! (This in conjuction with my corset ending right at my lower back was what did me in!) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 17:58:56 -0500 From: SCMom@aol.com Subject: Re: Speaking of tents ... Hi everyone, I've enjoyed reading your posts. Now I have a new question for you. How are the tent replicas made for circa 1700-1800 America? Does anyone have a list of supplies needed (besides canvas and wood:) and instructions for making them? Thank you, in advance, for your help. Kathy Deles SCMom Cub Scout Pack 694 Tricentennial Information Gatherer :) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 28 Mar 96 16:11 From: joe@imr.usa.com (Joe Cook) Subject: Re: Tent cleaning The chances of them getting soaked in period was quite possible/probable. I have read in some descriptions, however, about physically waxing the fabric of tents. I can only imagine this would have made for VERY heavy and non-breathing tents, but they would definately resist water a bit more. ---------- From: aric leibl To: joe; Maureen Martinez Cc: 'mail@ih ' Subject: Re: Tent cleaning Date: Wednesday, March 27, 1996 2:22PM All this talk about tents, cleaning, and being careful about the 'water seal' makes me curious as to what people used before we had these fancy chemicals we have now. Does anyone know, or did they just get soaked? Aric Leibl ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 18:29:08 -0500 From: HMHousman@aol.com Subject: Re: Bumrolls (formarly corsets) Bumrolls are an essential part of the Elizabethan sillhouette. They are the padded roll which goes around the waist, above the hoops, and creates a "shelf." They started out rather small and by late reign they were huge!! By that time women used multiple rolls which got increasingly bigger. This got a bit cumbersome and the French (I believe) came out with the drum-barrel to create a "table" look. Hope it helps.... Heather Housman ------------------------------ End of H-Costume Digest V4 #84 ****************************** A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, send the command lines: unsubscribe h-costume-digest subscribe h-costume end in the body of a message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com. Thanks and enjoy the list!