From: owner-h-costume-digest (H-Costume Digest)
To: h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com
Subject: H-Costume Digest V4 #86
Reply-To: h-costume
Sender: owner-h-costume-digest@lunch.engr.sgi.com
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H-Costume Digest          Wednesday, April 3 1996          Volume 4, Number 86

  Compilation copyright (C) 1996  Diane Barlow Close and Gretchen Miller
  Use in whole prohibited.  Individual articles are the property of
  the author.  Seek permission from that author before reprinting or
  quoting elsewhere.

Important Addresses:

  Send submissions to:   h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com (or reply to
			  this message).
  Adds/drops/archives:   majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com
  Real, live person:     h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu

Topics:
    Writer's Guidelines and more! 8-)
    1931 British Colour Cards
    Request to be dropped from list
    Female Tudor costumes - costume patterns
    FWD>RE> Bumrolls (formarly 
    Re: existence of textile mailing list?
    [none]
    Re: Hat Blanks
    NEW COMPUTER!!!
    need help with archives
    Re: Waist sizes
    Some questions on the History Of Art
    Regency costume and needlework
    Looking for Laura's Email Address
    Re: Waist sizes
    VA Servant clothing study now complete!                

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 06:39:11 -0800
From: polsons@sirius.com (The Polsons)
Subject: Writer's Guidelines and more! 8-)

Hello again. I'm taking the chance of annoying some people by posting this,
but I've received *TONS* of requests for guidelines (I'm impressed! 8-) ),
and many people also wanted info on the magazine itself, as well as
wondering if I wanted other living history articles (YES!). So, here's an
abbreviated version of our guidelines to save bandwidth. Thanks for your
patience, and I hope this is of help to all you who answered my original
post. 8-))) (I hope this isn't too long!!!)

- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
WRITER'S GUIDELINES FOR _RECREATING HISTORY_

Recreating History is designed to inspire living history enthusiasts of all
time periods, and those thinking about getting started, by providing
articles, information, and resources to help them meet their goals of
complete historical accuracy. Our primary focus is the various arts and
skills related to costuming and camp outfitting, but is by no means
limited to this scope.

Send all submissions to:
  Editor, Recreating History
  P. O. Box 4277
  Santa Clara, CA 95056

- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
GENERAL REQUIREMENTS

* All articles must be credible and authoritatively written. References
must be included with every manuscript, as well as further reading
suggestions.

* Clear, concise instructions and/or information are essential to our
audience. Make sure your article is scholarly, yet written in a
"user-friendly" manner.

* Queries are preferred to unsolicited manuscripts. Include copies of
previous works, if possible. Materials will be returned if a SASE is
included. Allow several weeks for a reply.

* Manuscripts should be submitted in a typed format with proper
identification. Remember to include a short bio about yourself. Author
bylines given. Computer users may include a copy on a 3 1/4" disk along
with the hard copy. Articles accompanied by quality photos
or illustrations are preferred. E-mail queries accepted.

* Current payment rate is based on a pre-determined scale primarily related
to quality and level of expertise. Payment is 50% on acceptance, and the
remaining 50% on publication unless otherwise arranged.

* Recreating History owns all rights to manuscripts as published, while the
author retains rights to their original manuscript.

- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
WHAT WE DON'T USE

Recreating History focuses only on subjects that directly relate to the
living history en-thusiast. We don't use poetry, except sometimes of the
period or as music, and we don't use articles on religion, politics, or
historical trivia.

- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
DEPARTMENTS

Creative Costuming - Feature-length articles  (1500-2000 words) on how to
make garb. Stresses tips and techniques for creating period clothing.

Provender- Feature-length articles on period foods, covering the historical
context of the food and how to prepare it. Must include tested recipes.
Include sources for unusual ingredients.

Calendar of Events- An important department, but we don't pay or charge
for listings. We always appreciate event listings of all kinds (and so do
our readers). Think of it as free advertising.

Silhouette- A short feature (1000 words) profiling an artisan or
organization who has achieved excellence. Please include photographs.

Weekend Workshop- A short feature describing a project that reenactors can
make in a few hours or over a weekend. This often introduces the reader to a
new craft or technique. Quality photos or line drawings are requested.

Around the Campfire- Short (500-800 words) period or "periodesque" story or
folktale. 1 year's subscription per item ($16.95 value).

History Today- Short items (100-300 words) of timely interest to historical
reenactors. Please include sources.

Reviews- Short reviews (50-100 words) of books, videos, and products. $10
per review.

Trinkets- Tested period recipes, short historic tidbits useful to
reenactors, anecdotes, living history-related trivia, etc. $5 each.

- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
PHOTOGRAPHERS AND ILLUSTRATORS

Clear photos are always welcome, as are black line illustrations.
Payment is upon publication and determined on an individual
basis according to professional quality. Freelance assignments
available-send samples of your previous work for consideration.

- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
SUBSCRIPTION AND SAMPLE COPY INFO

Subscriptions are $16.95 per year (6 issues), or $29.95 for two years.
Sample issues may be obtained for $3.95 + $1.00 for postage. Please allow
6-8 weeks for delivery. Foreign subscriptions please add $6.00 per year,
US funds only, please. Send check or money order to the above address.
Also state time period of interest so we can select the sample issue
most appropriate for you. Thanks for your interest in Recreating History!

+---------------------------End Message-------------------------------+

******************************************************************
Willow Polson                                   polsons@sirius.com
                 Recreating History magazine
"The Complete Resource for Living History Enthusiasts of All Eras"
******************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 11:12:06 -0700 (MST)
From: cwood@primenet.com
Subject: 1931 British Colour Cards

Hi-ho!

Does anyone know what the 1931 British colour cards were exactly and any
ideas where I might be able to get copies?

Thanks.

Ysabeau

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 13:51:57 -0500
From: GaelenF@aol.com
Subject: Request to be dropped from list

This message is for the manager of the historic costume list...I'd like to be
removed from the list, please.  The people on the list are incredibly helpful
but I'm getting more messages than I can handle.  Thank you for your time.
Yours truly,
Gaelen F

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 12:03:31 -0800
From: 101641.1113@compuserve.com
Subject: Female Tudor costumes - costume patterns

I would be grateful for any information on how I can get my hands on a
sewing pattern for junior/adult female tudor costumes.

Thanks in anticipation.

Jackie Smith

------------------------------

Date: 1 Apr 1996 12:05:22 -0800
From: "Karen Lovejoy" <karen.lovejoy@txgtwy.mcis.washington.edu>
Subject: FWD>RE> Bumrolls (formarly 

Mail*Link( SMTP               FWD>RE> Bumrolls (formarly corsets)

of course, then there are those of us who carry our own bumrolls around
wherever we go :-)

- --------------------------------------
Date: 3/28/96 15:43
From: HMHousman@aol.com
Bumrolls are an essential part of the Elizabethan sillhouette.  They are the
padded roll which goes around the waist, above the hoops, and creates a
"shelf."  They started out rather small and by late reign they were huge!!
 By that time women used multiple rolls which got increasingly bigger.  This
got a bit cumbersome and the French (I believe) came out with the drum-barrel
to create a "table" look.

Hope it helps....

Heather Housman

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Apr 1996 16:28:06 -0500
From: Carol Bier <cbier@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu>
Subject: Re: existence of textile mailing list?

The Textile Museum Shop offers a book list.  You may either request it 
directly (send request to TEXTILEMUS@AOL.COM), or Join The Textile 
Museum, then you get all the mailings from the museum on historic 
textiles of the non-Western world (and then some).

Carol Bier
Curator, Eastern Hemisphere Collections
The Textile Museum
2320 S Street, NW
Washington, D.C. 20008

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 15:19:35 -0700 (MST)
From: Sofia <jtst@bsl1.bslnet.com>
Subject: [none]

SET DIGEST

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 23:20:04 -0500
From: FASHONLINE@aol.com
Subject: Re: Hat Blanks

I am a hatter and know "hat blanks" as hat "bodies" or, if mushroom shaped
and unblocked, "hoods". If a brim has been formed but the body is still
unblocked, we refer to it as a "cappeline". 

Where to get them? Try Mannie's Millinery in NYC.

Stefan Schinzinger, San Francisco Hat Company

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 21:24:55 -0800 (PST)
From: Jo Jann <joj@efn.org>
Subject: NEW COMPUTER!!!

I'm getting my nice new pentium system monday and will be ready to SURF 
THE WEB! So please send me all your favorite costume site addresses, or 
just your own personal if you wish :> I would really like SCA & pre1700's 
And of course BRAVEHEART sites (think I saw one a while back)

Thank you :>
Please respond to silky@teleport.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 06:35:44 -0800
From: ke6isf@outlander.ni.net (Dennis Allen Carr)
Subject: need help with archives

RBarber854@aol.com writes:

> I am having trouble accessing archive files. I sent a question to "request"
> but recieved no answer. Can someone help me?

Mmmm... sure,. why not? =)

First thing you want to do is send the word "help" in either the subject 
or body of a mail message to majordomo@lunch.engr.sgi.com, which will 
give you much better help than anyone in here (except for Diane Close) 
can give you.

Oh, yeah - the reason you didn't get a response from Diane is because 
she's on vacation. =/


- ---
Dennis Allen Carr
KE6ISF
outlander!ke6isf@ccss.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Apr 1996 16:07:48 GMT
From: "Paul C. Dickie" <dickie@bozzie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Waist sizes

In message <199603281747.KAA26891@nz1.netzone.com> Sharon Bolton writes:
> 
> >Some ethnic groups tend to be heavier built and the extra poundage sure can
> >keep out the cold.  These gowns gave me encouragement since I haven't had
> >an 18" waist since childhood.
> 
> 
> An 18" waist?  I'd be happy if I had an 18" THIGH!
> 

Perhaps that's an evolutionary step towards getting an 18" waist? o-)

Apart from Victorian gents being able to encircle a girl's waist with their 
outstretched hands, another obvious advantage (?!!) of the smaller waist sizes 
was that their ladyfolk didn't -- couldn't -- eat so much...

< Paul >

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 16:38:10 +-400
From: George Maevski <jorje@glas.apc.org>
Subject: Some questions on the History Of Art

I am currently writing a paper on 2 topics
I would greatly appreciate if you could send me any sort of clue on =
where to find the materials (or if you could possibly discuss the =
matters with me).


1.  Development of typology of a Roman Villa of the 16th century
2.  Costume accessories (in general) and costume accessories in Russian =
portrait of the 1st third of the 19th century

Thank you All for your attention,

George

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 07:09:37 -0800
From: sexton@mail.wsu.edu (Althea Sexton)
Subject: Regency costume and needlework

I'm working on a project where I recreate several Regency wedding dresses
and the accessories that go with them.  Does anyone know of good sources
for what kind of handiwork was popular then?  I have access to Arnold, but
that is only good for the pattern of the dresses.  I'd like more info on
the needle crafts prevalent then, how did they trim the clothing, wedding
lore and etiquette.

Thanks in advance

Althea L. Sexton (aka) Althea L. Sexton - ALTHEA_SEXTON@WSU.EDU
http://www.physplt.wsu.edu/info.html   (WordSmith's WebBook)
http://www.physplt.wsu.edu/craft.html  (Craftivity)
Earth First!  We'll log the other planets later.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 11:49:04 -0500
From: Ladnier@aol.com
Subject: Looking for Laura's Email Address

I am sorry to send this message this way:

Laura in Dayton (Elizabeth I fan), I lost your Email and fax number.  Send it
to me again direct.

Sorry, again to tie up the system.

$$$  $$$  $$$  $$$  $$$  $$$  $$$  $$$  $$$  $$$  $$$  $$$  $$$  $$$  $
  $$   $$   $$   $$   $$   $$   $$   $$   $$   $$   $$   $$   $$   $$
   $    $    $    $    $    $    $    $    $    $    $    $    $    $
Pennies from Heaven, where it’s always reigning money
Or so my kids think so
Penny E. Ladnier, Virginia Commonwealth University
s0peladn@cabell.vcu.edu
   $    $    $    $    $    $    $    $    $    $    $    $    $    $
  $$   $$   $$   $$   $$   $$   $$   $$   $$   $$   $$   $$   $$   $$
 $$$  $$$  $$$  $$$  $$$  $$$  $$$  $$$  $$$  $$$  $$$  $$$  $$$  $$$  $
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 17:20:01 +0000
From: "Keith & Heather Schenk" <kschenk@fast.net>
Subject: Re: Waist sizes

Date:          Tue, 02 Apr 1996 16:07:48 GMT
From:          "Paul C. Dickie" <dickie@bozzie.demon.co.uk>
To:            h-costume@lunch.engr.sgi.com
Subject:       Re: Waist sizes

In message <199603281747.KAA26891@nz1.netzone.com> Sharon Bolton writes:
> 
> >Some ethnic groups tend to be heavier built and the extra poundage sure can
> >keep out the cold.  These gowns gave me encouragement since I haven't had
> >an 18" waist since childhood.
> 
> 
> An 18" waist?  I'd be happy if I had an 18" THIGH!
> 

Perhaps that's an evolutionary step towards getting an 18" waist? o-)

Apart from Victorian gents being able to encircle a girl's waist with their 
outstretched hands, another obvious advantage (?!!) of the smaller waist sizes 
was that their ladyfolk didn't -- couldn't -- eat so much...

< Paul >

This might be related...

A friend of mine, has of late,  become interested in late 1800's 
history.   She says that during that time it was considered 
un-lady-like to eat a lot in public.  I guess squishing all of your
'inards'  into some other dimension helped to keep your appetite in 
check. :)

Heather
kschenk@fast.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 16:24:08 -0600 (CST)
From: BPH3213@ACS.TAMU.EDU
Subject: VA Servant clothing study now complete!                

Hi all,
 As those of you who have been on the list awhile may recall, I have
been working on a PhD dissertation on runaway indentured servant clothing
in Virginia (Revolutionary War period). Well, I'm pleased to say it is done. 

 As I promised a long time back, I want to make this available to those on the
list who have an interest in the subject. Here's the basics of what it is:  
Title: Had on and Took With Him: Runaway Indentured Servant Clothing in
Virginia, 1774-1778.   about 340 pages, 92 figures. 
Chapters include background on servants, clothing in the 18th century in
Europe (Britain) and America, and social cotexts for servant clothing. 
Following this are chapters on specific garmets (coats, waistcoats, etc). 
All of these chapters are integrated with info from the runaway servant
descriptions, and contemporary diaries, etc. to place clothes in everyday
settings. The final chapter is mostly line drawings, then numerous appendices.

 The database was 201 runaway servant descriptions, all males, mostly of
European background (one Asiatic Indian, possibly a few more mixed backrgouds)
There is a 70+- page glossary on textiles mentioned in the ads (at 9 point font
single spaced, so it's actually longer that it sounds even). The raw
clothing data is also compiled in appendices for all 201 servants.

 There are about 50 reconstruction drawings of selected servants clothes. (No
people just clothes on an invisible body). Info used for this varied, including
trips to Virginia to look over artifact collections and original garments, as
well as prints, paintings, patterns, etc. (Even so, they are still conjectural
don't forget!)

Anyway, the cost for duplication including tax is $18.00, and I've found
Prioroty mail to be most efficent at $5, for a total of $23. (Believe it or
not, parcel post would only save 5 to 50 cents for most I've sent out). 
All I ask is reimbursement for these costs.  

While there are surely many weaknesses that will be apparent to those of you
who have been at this for years, I hope it will be insightful and useful. 
I'm doing this before I begin sending sections in for publication (which 
if anyone has suggestions for where to submit, let me know). After parts
get published, I may have to turn over some of the copyright rights. 

This is my way of saying thanks to those who gave me tips on where to find
resources, or jabbed me for more documentation. (especially during the cotton
debates awhile back, while I was doing the glossary section!). 
 
Now, for those of you wondering who is this person and what's he up to,
I'm an historical archaeologist who has specialized in material culture, 
primarily 17th-18th centuries. This work took me to the fringe of 
archaeological work. It doesn't read like a typical dissertation (I hope!). 
One of my things in archaeology is to make the info we deal with accesible
to the public, and interesting, so I tried to present it that way. 

If you're interested, drop me a note at  bph3213@acs.tamu.edu before May 15 
and we can make arrangements. I'm rarely at the Department now, so don't
write there unless you're very patient. 
                         
Sorry to write such a long note, but the brain is just thawing out
of a two-plus years dissertation writing mode...
 Bryan Howard                         
 Department of Anthropology
 Texas A&M University
 bph3213@acs.tamu.edu

p.s. If you want a copy, contact me first, so I can take the master in for
duplication beforehand, and then I'll send you my home address.- Bryan

------------------------------

End of H-Costume Digest V4 #86
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